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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior
+of Tropical Australia In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria (1848) by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L.
+(1792-1855) Surveyor-General of New South Wales, by Thomas Mitchell
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
+by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+Author: Thomas Mitchell
+
+Release Date: August 28, 2004 [EBook #9943]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+Notes in the book are shown in square brackets at the point referenced.
+
+Maps and plates not shown in the text version of this ebook
+
+
+=======================================================================
+
+
+Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
+
+by
+
+Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TO
+THE HONOURABLE
+THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS
+OF THE
+LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW  SOUTH WALES,
+THIS JOURNAL
+OF
+AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,
+PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,
+AND
+UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,
+IS
+DEDICATED
+BY
+THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,
+HUMBLE SERVANT,
+T. L. MITCHELL
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the
+most attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of
+Australia. There the philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the
+poet for original studies and ideas; the naturalist for additional
+knowledge; and the historian might begin at a beginning. The traveller
+there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, or towers; but he
+is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of healthful
+progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
+Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions
+still unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now
+that the rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most
+deserving people on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved
+by the Almighty for their use.
+
+In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early
+period between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known
+to the ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--
+
+"Communemque priùs, ceu lumina solis et auras, Cautus humum longo
+signavit limite mensor." [* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]
+
+The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
+arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
+internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and
+the north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the
+last twenty years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to
+bring under the notice of men of science some of the earth's productions
+hitherto unknown. He cannot sufficiently express his sense of obligation
+in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and
+Professor De Vriese, for supplying the botanical matter and notes
+contained in this volume, and thus contributing to the general stock of
+human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that during the
+long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
+register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst
+of his important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison
+of minute details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
+
+The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in
+its accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of
+latitude; trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever
+heights were available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route.
+This route was connected, at its commencement and termination, with the
+trigonometrical survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a
+survey extending two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of
+his intersections with that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could
+not but be very satisfactory to the author.
+
+The geological specimens collected during this journey have been
+deposited in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on
+the maps by the numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be
+available to geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science,
+the fossils now brought from these remote regions will be accessible at
+any future time, and something known of the geology as well as of the
+geography of the interior. As Professor Forbes most readily undertook to
+describe the freshwater shells after the work had passed through the
+press, that portion of the collection also has thus been brought under
+the notice of geologists.
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+GENERAL MAP
+
+Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord
+Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--
+Scattered population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of
+sheep on cattle runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--
+Sulphureous springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan.
+Leave Bultje's country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between
+the squatters and the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of
+young bullocks.--Richard Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night
+without water.--Distress from heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion
+of the party.--Melancholy fate of the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants
+discovered.--Encampment at Mudaà.--Carry water forward.--Arrive at
+Daròbal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelègo.--Discovery of a lagoon.--Encamp
+near Canbelègo. Explore the Bogan in search of water.--Long ride.--Quit
+the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE
+
+Move to the ponds of Cannonbà.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's
+intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of
+weather.--A day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt
+plant.--Reconnoitre Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach
+of a flood announced.--It arrives in clear moonlight.--(Frontispiece.)--
+Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering cattle.--(Plate 2. p.
+61.) A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the
+Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds
+destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to
+modern names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of
+the Macquarie and Bàrwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--
+Admirable distribution of water. The ford at Wyàbry.--The party crosses
+the Darling
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--
+SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.
+
+Plains and low hills.--The Caràwy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The
+Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--
+During the delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the
+Narran.--New plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their
+passage.--The party fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills
+examined.--Good grassy country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west
+of the river.--Ride up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley
+with a native.--Gravelly ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--
+Approach the assembled natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial
+reception.--Cross the Balonne.--Reach the Culgòa.--Cross that river.--
+Route beyond.--The Upper Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on
+trees.--A native scamp.--Fine country.--Splendid reaches of the river
+(Plate 3. page 119.)--Lagoons near it.--Lake Parachute.--Seek a
+position--for a depôt camp.--Ride to the north-west.--Character of the
+country.--Search for water. Uncommon birds.--Return to the camp.--New
+Acacia
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANÒA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE
+PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--
+Trace one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore
+it.--Fine country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small
+tributary.--Mountains discovered.--Camp visited by three
+natives.--"Cogoon" the name of tributary.--Charms of the Australian
+climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme cold.--Traces of high floods in the
+Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--
+Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel
+due north over open downs.--Advantages of mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount
+Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party advances to the Amby--followed
+by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter the country through the
+pass.--Find one pond.--A large river discovered.--Position taken up on
+its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore to the north-
+west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior country
+visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to
+trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--
+Native visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The
+Tagando tribe again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance
+again with a light party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE,
+ AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--
+Ride north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party
+crosses Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the
+north-west.--Banks of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards
+it.--Flank movement to the Maranòa for water.--None found in its bed.--
+View from Mount Owen.--Names of localities on the map.--Scarcity of water
+impedes our progress.--Water found in rocky gullies.--Excursion
+northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern summit of Mount Owen.--
+Progress through a broken country.--Night without water.--Another route
+explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount Owen.--Route for
+the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount P. P. King.--
+View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount Faraday.--
+Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the camp.--
+The party with the carts advances.--(Pyramids, Plate IV., page 222.)--
+Course of the new found river.--New plants.--A large lake receives the
+river.--(Plate V., John Martin's Range, page 225.)--The outlet dry.--
+Enter a scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich
+soil on the downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river.
+Fossil wood.--Again shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a
+gully.--Balmy Creek.--New plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower
+Almond.--(Pl. 6. page 237.)--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount
+Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,
+
+Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate
+and country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the
+water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--
+Causes of the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river
+channel from the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much
+increased.--Long journey through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the
+river bank.--Character of this river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--
+Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach the river by moonlight.--Large
+lagoons.--New tributary--from the S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night
+without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp visited by natives during
+my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party crosses the river.--
+Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the natives.--The
+shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable
+production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--
+Singular meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--
+Recross the Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable
+tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to
+explore a river in brigalow.--A more direct way homewards.--Successful
+passage with carts and drays.--Open downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the
+Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the Salvator.--Position taken up for
+a depôt camp.--Interesting plants.--(View on the Salvator, Pl. 8.)
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189.)
+
+Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three
+volcanic hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--
+The Nive and the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found,
+after a night of thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--
+Morning view from a rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open
+downs.--Brigalow scrubs away from the river.--River much increased.--
+Security from natives--Thoughts in these solitudes.--The downs and the
+river.--An emu shot there.--A river joins from the east.--Structure of
+native's huts.--Two separate channels unite.--The river well filled.--
+Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--
+surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and return homewards.--The
+savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the S. W.--Short cut along
+the left bank of the river.--Name it the Victoria.--Privations in
+exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by a snake.--
+Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp of
+the pyramids.--Rare and new plants  collected there.--(View of Lindley's
+Range, Pl. 9.)
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189., and Map IV., Page 133.)
+
+Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount
+Faraday.--Valley of the Warregò.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp
+over the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranòa.--The river found to be near our
+former track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle
+tracks.--Arrival at the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--
+during our absence.--(Pl. 7. ABORIGINAL DANCE, page 358).--Plants
+gathered at the depôt camp.--New plants.--Fossils at Mount Sowerby.--
+Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the depôt camp following the
+course of the Maranòa.--Discovery of a fine open country.--Numbered trees
+at camps.--The country on the Maranòa.--Singular habits of a fish.--Name
+of river obtained from good authority.--(Pl. 10. VIEW ON THE MARANÒA,
+page 372).--The Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at length
+discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive at
+the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+(Having reference to Map III., Page 81.)
+
+(VIEW OF ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, Pl. 11)--Despatches sent forward.--
+Acquisitions during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The
+party crosses the Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle
+stations.--Heavy rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a
+hill.--Dam thrown up.--The waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival
+at the Barwan.--A flood.--(Pl. 12. LAST USE OF THE BOATS, page 395).--
+Cross the Màal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount
+Riddell recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A
+stockman.--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of the
+Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire,
+kangaroos, and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--
+Experiment worth trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the
+party.--Of convicts generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--
+capabilities of soil and climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division
+and appropriation of the territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india
+
+MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA   Page 430
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--
+Letter, dated 28th October, 1830
+
+Systematical List of Plants
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+[Not included in the text-file version of this eBook]
+
+Flood coming down the Macquarie (pl. 1. p. 58) Map I. The Indian
+Archipelago Portrait of Bultje Remnant of the Bogan tribe Map II. The
+Rivers Bogan and Macquarie First use of the boats (pl. 2) Map III. The
+Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also
+the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon Separation of the Balonne
+into the Culgoa, Narran, &c. The River Balonne, 7th April (pl. 3) Map IV.
+Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge The
+Bottle tree, DELABECHEA The black awaiting the white Map V. The country
+and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the
+River Victoria Tree without branches The Pyramids (pl. 4) Martin's Range
+(pl. 5) Tower Almond (pl. 6) Map VI. The River Belyando Missile club of
+natives of Central Australia Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?) The River
+Salvator, 5th Sept. (pl. 8) Lindley's Range (pl. 9) Old native female
+Aboriginal dance (pl. 7) View on the River Maranòa (pl. 10) Acacia
+VARIANS St. Georgia's Bridge (pl. 11) Last use of the boats (pl. 12) Map
+VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries
+
+* * * * *
+
+JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.
+
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
+STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED
+POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM SYDNEY.--A
+SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET AN OLD
+ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN RIVER.--
+YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY OF WATER.--
+THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY FATE OF THE
+BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER FORWARD.--
+DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS DIE FROM
+THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, BY MOVING
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH THE PARTY.
+
+The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
+first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
+entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
+part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
+development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The same
+direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the Royal
+Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a committee of
+the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most desirable to pursue
+at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony from distress
+found favour with the public.
+
+At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
+islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
+industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
+themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,
+
+"Which mock'd their scant manurings, and requir'd MORE HANDS THAN THEIRS
+to prune their wanton growth."
+
+The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, "al
+nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," seemed
+to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the wayward
+fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern extremity
+of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis incognita."
+The character of the interior of that country still remained unknown, the
+largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere exploration, the
+colonists of New South Wales might not have been very anxious just at
+that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical knowledge could
+be combined with that of exploring a route towards the nearest part of
+the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, it was easy to awaken
+the attention of the Australian public to the importance of such an
+enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount the Indian cavalry had
+commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of Torres Straits had been
+injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided by any overland route
+from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
+South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
+shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with England
+by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by land, was
+an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In short, the
+commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the direct road
+home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the discovery of a
+good overland route between Sydney and the head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be introduced
+from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
+
+In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
+the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to
+the settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-île forming the furthest
+point of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
+therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that of
+the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a considerable
+river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
+submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
+His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
+reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
+should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
+Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more money
+than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards the expense
+of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. His
+Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
+the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
+still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
+to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
+interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
+which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
+despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
+and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six persons
+who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not been heard
+of, and were supposed to have either perished or been destroyed by
+natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from Port
+Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
+shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
+
+The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, favourable
+to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still declined to
+allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any reason for
+keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it became known
+in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, with the express
+sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring expedition from Adelaide
+into the northern interior of Australia, and that he was actually then in
+New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had expressed, in one of his early
+despatches to the British Government, his readiness to encourage such an
+undertaking as that, and stated that "no one came forward to claim the
+honour of such an enterprise;" yet now that Lord Stanley had sanctioned
+the plan of the Surveyor General, whose duty it was to survey the
+country, he refused to allow this officer to proceed. The Legislative
+Council, however, renewed the petition for this undertaking, to which the
+Governor at length assented, in 1845; and the sum of 2000L. was
+unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but with the clear
+understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of the Surveyor
+General should be adopted.
+
+The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. The
+journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report that a
+large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
+accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
+still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first
+papers published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
+suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
+Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by a
+map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
+
+In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
+land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
+bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
+preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
+greater number of men, were considered objections; while many experienced
+persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more enduring than
+horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] Eight
+drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: four
+of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
+Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two
+parts, on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party
+moved off from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.
+
+I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having rode
+there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following Monday,
+15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior. The
+Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:--
+
+SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.
+EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command. W.
+STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural
+History. PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes. Charles Niblett, William Graham,
+ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper. WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.
+John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper. Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers. Edward
+Taylor, William Bond, William Mortimer, George Allcot, John Slater,
+Richard Horton, Felix Maguire, James Stephens, Carpenters. Job Stanley,
+Edward Wilson, Blacksmith. George Fowkes, Shoemaker. John Douglas,
+Barometer carrier. Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman. Andrew Higgs,
+Chainman. William Hunter, With the horses. Thomas Smith, Patrick Travers,
+Carter and Pioneer. Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher. Arthur Bristol,
+Sailmaker and Sailor.
+
+8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3
+light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was
+provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the
+party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest
+consisted of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.
+
+With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the party
+consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,
+with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so
+powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,
+from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely
+on their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the
+face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of
+the old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp
+arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly
+forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of
+discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a
+party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and
+it was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as
+mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the same
+kind of authority could not be exercised.
+
+Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former line
+of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived at
+Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same chain
+of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named Dochendoras
+Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds. These ponds had
+been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the 9th December--the
+day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had been clear and sultry.
+A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day, levelled part of the forest
+near this place, laying prostrate the largest trees, one side of which
+was completely barked by the hailstones. Many branches of trees along the
+line of route, showed that the wind had been very violent to a
+considerable distance.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,
+therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the
+chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and
+difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing,
+chiefly to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to
+have taken, but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays
+before my arrival at the camp.
+
+We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that
+Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a
+gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all
+sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which
+may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,
+or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot, although
+previously unknown in these regions.
+
+17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 A.M. and travelled along a good road, for
+about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of ponds,
+following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called
+Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we
+finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We
+had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but
+everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a
+blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of
+rain, it had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the
+Macquarie.
+
+Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared with
+a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper. She
+had been there two years, and only complained that they had never been
+able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to
+leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they
+should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,
+and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found
+work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very
+little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied
+sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His
+conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his
+family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been obliged
+to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man
+neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under
+the new regulations.
+
+"So you saw no more of them?"
+
+"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them AFTER THEY HAD BEEN SOLD AT THE
+POUND!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small family of
+children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could have kept
+my cows."
+
+This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked along,
+for he was one of the race--
+
+"Who march to death with military glee."
+
+But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the
+hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the
+desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the
+DISJECTA MEMBRA of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left to
+the people themselves in a new colony.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 A.M., and continued along a
+tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek, in which
+there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the good beaten
+road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left, which brought
+us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds, three miles
+higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to encamp here, I
+pursued the road south-westward along the chain of ponds, anxious to
+ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily to the westward
+of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of route to the Bogan.
+At about five miles I found an excellent opening through which the road
+passed on ground almost level. Having ascended a small eminence on the
+right, I fell in with some natives with spears, who seemed to recognise
+me, by pointing to my old line of route, and saying, "Majy Majy" (Major
+Mitchell). I little thought then that this was already an outlying
+picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe my party. The day
+was hot, therm. 97° in the shade. The chain of ponds, there called "the
+Little River," contained water in abundance, and was said to flow into
+the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but few sources in
+Hervey's Range.
+
+The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard, and had
+been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now a sheep
+station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a mile and a
+half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country suitable
+for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment of sheep
+on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as where
+sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where cattle
+would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter
+description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The
+plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive
+pasturage in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to
+inundations to be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this
+description lies on the interior side of the ranges, as far as I have
+examined them. It is watered by the sources of the rivers Goulburn,
+Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee, Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh,
+Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and Darling; on which rivers the runs will always
+make cattle fat. There are two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there
+is something salsolaceous in the herbage also on which cattle thrive so
+well; and the open plains and muddy waterholes are their delight.
+Excessive drought, however, may occasionally reduce the owners of such
+stock to great extremities, and subject them to serious loss. The Acacia
+pendula, a tree whose HABITAT is limited and remarkable, is much relished
+by the cattle. It is found only in clay soils, on the borders of plains,
+which are occasionally so saturated with water as to be quite impassable;
+never on higher ground nor on any lower than that limited sort of
+locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers which at some seasons overflow.
+In such situations, even where grass seems very scarce, cattle get fat;
+and it is a practice of stockmen to cut down the Acacia pendula (or Myall
+trees, as they call them) for the cattle to feed on.
+
+At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual who
+had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of
+colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his
+consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state
+of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there
+were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be
+startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system
+which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one
+thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should
+be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so
+favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite
+theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and
+propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this
+unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal
+native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they could
+not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences between
+squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it were
+an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more likely
+to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;
+remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,
+all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money, then
+place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than a
+black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I
+penned these remarks.
+
+19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously examined.
+On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees, plants,
+and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each side,
+and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious shrub
+never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy
+valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of
+former difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had
+travelled upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This
+consisted of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had
+formerly been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of
+Three Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their
+appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend
+Bultje, who had guided me from thence to the Bené Rocks, on my former
+journey along the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had
+elapsed since I formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time
+had made no alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to
+forward my views that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water
+was to be found; and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former
+route, by the least possible DÉTOUR. Mount Laidley bore 23° E. of N.
+
+20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass seemed
+good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A cattle
+station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and at
+about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it
+crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally
+diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace
+of the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill
+laid down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,
+I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very springs
+mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being limpid and
+surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were now trodden
+by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been endeavouring
+to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it pure, by
+laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The change
+produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by the
+intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable, and I
+could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native, should have
+felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from the level
+plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty feet lower
+continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste of sulphur,
+and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more celebrated.
+They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are not
+supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain
+descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang Creek
+did however retain some water which had fallen during the last rain. The
+thermometer stood at 107° in the tent.
+
+21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a straight
+line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half way to the
+Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating country, just
+heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our guide knew the
+country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here also were two
+flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head station, being
+fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap. While travelling
+this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters from Buree, and a cart
+had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a small supply of corn.
+That country is considered excellent as a fattening run for sheep; the
+shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which keeps them in
+excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of water at some
+seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into sheep runs, and
+VICE VERSÂ, a contingency which seems to render these lands of Hervey's
+range of temporary and uncertain value.
+
+22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the little
+chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was good--
+the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N. W. It was
+the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing at length
+to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we further
+on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon its
+western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains had
+been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length
+arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Ganànaguy,
+and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here
+looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there
+was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,
+and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the
+country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or
+Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the
+Bogan seemed low.
+
+This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the
+failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an
+almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water
+for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform
+width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be
+sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain
+tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the
+sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions
+of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are
+greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is
+scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had
+been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses cannot
+travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the mercy
+of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking
+kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of
+cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and
+lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109° at noon, wind
+W.N.W.
+
+23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr. Templar's
+station at Ganànaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood by the party
+as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink to each of
+the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest water-holes
+(Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service he promised,
+I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco promised him, and
+also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This native got a bad
+name from various stockmen, as having been implicated in the murder of
+Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded; and it must indeed
+require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates to maintain his
+footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen or shepherds
+on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter savages
+naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as we
+should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to them,
+while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most unjustly
+connected this native's name with the murder of one of our number. His
+laconic manner and want of language would not admit of any clear
+explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and the
+difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance of
+his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley
+in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil,
+at least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition.
+Much tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by
+stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when
+aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to
+save or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this,
+without having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own
+valley, "surpasseth me to know."
+
+We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr. Gilmore's
+station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk. At the
+station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a flood had
+come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up the well.
+The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the clay was wet
+and soft when the further sinking was interrupted. Thermometer in my tent
+109°, wind W. N. W.
+
+24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest sunbeams
+shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off early, but the
+progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind blew like a blast
+furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We encamped on the
+Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after travelling about ten
+miles. Thermometer in tent, 103.° Hot wind from the west.
+
+25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more
+from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107°.
+
+26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to Mr.
+Coss, 2½ miles. Thermometer, 109°.
+
+27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of the
+bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.
+
+At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind
+from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot
+wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117°, and when exposed
+to the wind rose rapidly to 129°, when I feared the thermometer would
+break as it only reached to 132°.
+
+28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off early,
+accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The day was
+excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally encamped
+on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling eleven miles.
+Thermometer in tent, 115°. At half past five, the sky became overcast,
+and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and suddenly fell. I found
+that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud, leaving a jug of the water
+tolerably clear, but then the acid remained. Towards evening the sky was
+overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The night was uncommonly hot. At
+ten the thermometer stood at 102°, and at day-break at 90°.
+
+29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle would no
+longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from south. Finding
+a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the lighter
+portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the
+hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM,
+reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a SOLANUM in flower,
+of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener grass
+indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at about
+twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and
+elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had
+been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of
+the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where
+the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the
+Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had
+been once much lower down, at Mudà, and even at Nyingan (see INFRA), but
+the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations untenable,
+without more support than the Colonial government was able to afford.
+There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer of the
+country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered. The map
+will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep their
+ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes. [* See
+map of Eastern Australia--INFRA.] The Darling is peopled more permanently
+by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia: affording as
+it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in seasons of very high
+flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got at, and that they are
+obliged to resort to the higher country at such seasons, between the
+Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also happens that the cattle of
+the squatter are most accessible from the soft state of the ground; the
+stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The tribes from the Lachlan
+and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and when tribes assemble they
+are generally ready for any mischief. The Bogan is particularly within
+their reach, and when wet seasons do occur the cattle of squatters must
+be very much at the mercy of the savages. The tribes from the Darling are
+extremely hostile, even to the more peaceably disposed hilltribes near
+the colony, and several stations have already been abandoned in
+consequence of the outrages of the aborigines from the Darling and
+Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils as the precarious
+or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply of water must
+continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from actual
+possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full benefit
+of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres, covered
+with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages smile at the
+want of generalship by which they have been allowed to burn the white
+man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the Bogan. The
+establishment of a police station near the junction of the Bogan with the
+Darling, or the formation of an inland township about Fort Bourke, had
+been sufficient to have secured the stations along the Bogan and
+Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well as our own
+countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such are the
+results where SQUATTING has been permitted to supersede settling. With
+possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied, and no
+such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British colony.
+
+The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
+that between our present camp and Mudà, a very large lagoon about 50
+miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206
+feet in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the
+Bogan is only 50 feet between Mudà and New Year's Range, in a distance of
+upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Mudà
+from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
+general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which
+the overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and
+other channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where
+the declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in
+the channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither
+flow with so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by
+which ponds are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this
+part, during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about
+double the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
+
+I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
+Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require
+to take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
+having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas
+the working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
+journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
+young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
+break them in as we proceeded.
+
+30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool morning.
+Thermometer, 68°. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. Kerr 32
+young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the stockyard.
+
+Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
+
+31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 A. M., 62°: at noon, 109°. Wind
+S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately avoiding the
+tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the air, also
+some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much wanted for
+the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in the evening.
+
+1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, and was
+very high at 11 A. M. The party were chiefly employed breaking in the
+young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with the
+hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
+evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
+ATRIPLEX SEMIBACCATA of Brown was a common straggling plant.
+
+2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning was
+cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the clouds, which
+resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat again. Besides the
+SALSOLA AUSTRALIS, we found a HALGANIA with lilac flowers, probably
+distinct from the species hitherto described, which are natives of the
+south-west coast.
+
+3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the old;
+and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in the
+Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to the
+scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the first
+hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named Mount
+Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The little
+pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of Cunningham was so
+identified with the botanical history of almost all the shrubs in the
+very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no other monument
+seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled Cunningham to my mind; his
+barbarous murder, and the uncertainty which still hung over the actual
+circumstances attending it. The shrubs told indeed of Cunningham; of both
+brothers, both now dead; but neither the shrubs named by the one, nor the
+gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had witnessed the bloody deed, could tell
+more. There the ACACIA PENDULA, first discovered and described by Allan,
+could only
+
+"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand, For ever silent, and for ever
+sad."
+
+4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with the
+young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of conveyance
+was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no pecuniary saving
+would compensate, as compared with light carts and horses. I proceeded
+forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called Tabbaratong, where some
+water was said still to remain. We found some mud and water only;
+although some that was excellent was found about two miles lower down the
+Bogan, late in the evening.
+
+We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the squatter.
+The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and humiliating proofs
+that the white man had given way, were visible in the remains of dairies
+burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We hoped to find within
+the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, unsoiled by cattle,
+and a surface on which we might track our own stray animals, without
+their being confused by the traces of others.
+
+5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the night,
+retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
+brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
+native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light carts,
+guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, who had
+come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native of the
+lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our route
+was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of CALLITRIS and
+other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
+thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
+through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
+The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
+route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
+native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
+driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
+which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
+downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
+on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
+but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabadà
+and Mudà, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
+the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
+arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabadà ponds. The water was however
+excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, and we
+hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only arrived at
+as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The drays
+with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock and Yuranigh
+back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without water, and that I
+wished him, if still EN ROUTE, immediately to unyoke the cattle, encamp
+on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes during the night,
+and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes I had found near
+Bugabadà. We passed a miserable night without water at Cadduldury.
+
+6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a message
+from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I went forward
+with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 A. M.. The morning
+happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of water and food the
+preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John Douglas and Isaac
+Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at the first water-hole.
+But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy loads thus far in the
+extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to me. William Baldock
+again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of water on a horse, a
+horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the drays, the drivers of
+which were almost frantic and unable to do their work from thirst. He
+brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still remained at his
+encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the drivers (Mortimer
+and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, and chains, to
+escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to watch his own
+team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune to the whole
+party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as my camp, but
+I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the water,
+which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left with the
+drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the water, and
+the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. Stephenson, who had
+hastened back with several bottles, relieved his thirst, and, as the man
+said, "saved his life."
+
+Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
+hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
+the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
+heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
+however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with which
+I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably disposed
+towards us.
+
+7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare bullocks,
+having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during the night.
+The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part of the
+other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in charge
+of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would also have
+gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. Kennedy sent
+him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays carrying the
+provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. The day surpassed
+in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon in the shade stood
+at 109°, a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. Kennedy was distant
+at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabadà.
+
+The six drays came in about 4 P. M.; the sheep not until long after dark.
+Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. Kennedy,
+and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement for drawing
+forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care of, and which
+was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the evening of next day, to
+be attached on their arrival to the two drays with which they were to
+come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest of the night, until
+they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined to meet them early
+next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it was not my intention to
+send after the four stray bullocks until the drays came in, and the party
+could be again united. Thermometer again 109° in the shade all day.
+
+The CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was the
+common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
+capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
+reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are
+found so troublesome among the wool.
+
+8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he had found
+him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from want of
+water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to a young
+dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated that a
+tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. Baldock
+had seen several bullocks dead on the way. In the evening the two first
+teams were sent off as arranged. This day had also been very sultry,
+especially towards evening.
+
+9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were despatched
+as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered the camp. We
+had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, to suffer so
+little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, until I
+could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I had been
+previously assured by the young native that water was still to be found
+at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal to the
+whole party.
+
+On the banks of the Bogan, the ATRIPLEX HAGNOIDES formed a round white-
+looking bush.
+
+I rode forward to Mudà, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, and
+had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who remembered
+my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show me my old track
+and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the northward of my
+present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had been killed in a fight
+with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. Two old grey-haired
+men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed out to me as his
+brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that I had at first
+imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on their hams
+opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and grey, and
+melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
+
+The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
+struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
+Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
+natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of
+the tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives
+were chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
+
+The natives of Mudà assured me there was no water nearer than Nyingan, a
+large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct line lower
+down the Bogan. The ponds of Mudà, their great store of water, and known
+to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were alarmingly low, and it
+became evident that our progress under such a scarcity of water would be
+attended with difficulty. These natives gave us also a friendly hint that
+"GENTLEMEN" should be careful of the spears of the natives of Nyingan, as
+many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately by white men from Wellington
+Valley.
+
+Among the woods we observed the white-flowered TEUCRIUM RACEMOSUM, the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink flowers; also a
+STENOCHILUS and FUSANUS (the Quandang), although not in fruit; a new
+species of STIPA, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse rough
+herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in the
+way of C. TRUNCATA, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed
+pales,[**] and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new
+EREMOPHILA with white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The
+beautiful DAMASONIUM OVALIFOLIUM, with white flowers red in the centre,
+still existed in the water.
+
+[* S. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi
+villosis, glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis
+involutis culmis brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligulâ oblongâ
+subciliatâ.]
+
+[** C. SCLERANTHA (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+breviaristato cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili
+vacuo.]
+
+[*** E. MITCHELLI (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis
+linearibus planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4
+superioribus subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
+
+In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
+the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
+was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
+track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
+following it further.
+
+I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
+out present camp near Bugabadà was in latitude 31° 56', and thus very
+near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
+terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90°; at 9 P. M., 70°; with wet bulb,
+63°.
+
+10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to the S. W.
+in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I sent
+William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the stray
+bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track to Mudà,
+where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and sheep, already
+arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of having been on
+watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell asleep, and that
+the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, but lost himself.
+He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, etc. which he
+declined.
+
+We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
+visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
+state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We had
+passed near Bugabadà similar remains of a cattle station. This position
+of Mudà was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank nearly
+clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
+surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
+last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of
+a young crop shooting up amongst it.
+
+11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the cattle
+and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Mudà for the lost bullocks. To-day I
+noticed the KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
+fruit, edged with pink.
+
+13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning (by
+moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) could
+not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. Kerr's
+station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be found. We
+had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great scarcity of
+water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that our loss
+had been so slight.
+
+I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
+Nyingan, which bore 353°--and having found a tolerably open country for
+about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and encamped,
+sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Mudà. Enough had
+been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the camp. To
+ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already stated,
+the paddock at Mudà, in which during this night, they could be secured,
+having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I found a
+new grass of the genus CHLORIS[*], something like CHL. TRUNCATA in habit,
+some starved specimens of TRICHINIUM LANATUM; amongst the grasses I also
+found the ARISTIDA CALYCINA of Brown, the curious NEURACHNE MITCHELLIANA
+Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and also a new PAPPOPHORUM
+with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart shower fell
+during the evening.
+
+[* C. ACICULARIS (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+setaceo aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
+
+[** P. FLAVESCENS (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis,
+spicâ compositâ densissimâ oblongâ, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis
+pilosis, foliis vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis
+villosis.]
+
+14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Mudà, and were immediately
+yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on the same
+bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been encamped, I
+turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water there. I
+found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a journey of
+about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently found I had
+encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was guided by the
+friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his country
+afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I had cut
+off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a north-
+westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels will
+probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan may
+be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
+stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
+been burnt down.
+
+15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day was
+fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
+found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
+the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
+Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
+An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the JASMINUM
+LINEARE, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the water, I saw
+the ALTERNANTHERA NODIFLORA.
+
+16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, crossing
+the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked trees. We
+lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgabà, and made a slight
+détour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we encamped, and
+were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this day's journey
+Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen with those of the
+feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old track, and
+returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces of our
+party.
+
+At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
+natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
+house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were sunken
+very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp had been
+established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look for
+the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
+my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
+thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water,
+but in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen,
+during the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
+
+17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the native
+Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to the
+Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from that point
+to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, provided this did
+not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by sunset. Two old
+women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by whom Piper was told that
+the nearest permanent water was "NIMINÉ," where white men had attempted
+to form a cattle-station, and been prevented by natives from the Darling,
+many of whom had since been shot by the white men. They said the place
+was far beyond Canbelego, the next stage of my former journey, and where
+these women also said little or no water remained.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven A.M., having found water at Canbelego.
+Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the fruit of the
+CAPPARIS MITCHELLII, which he called an apple, being new to him, but
+which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, and said was
+called "MOGUILE;" he also said that it was eaten by the natives.
+
+18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two small ponds
+remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass than we had
+hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of water, we had
+been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again forward looking for
+water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and after following the
+river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was now within the same
+distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had found abundance of water
+when I sent him to survey it upwards during my last return journey up the
+Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in which Piper pointed, that
+the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as containing water; and as the
+course of that creek, so far as shown on maps, led even more directly to
+the Darling than did the Bogan, I was willing in such a season of extreme
+drought, to avail myself of its waters. My eye had been much injured by
+straining at stars while at the camp near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to
+send Mr. Kennedy on one of my own horses, followed by Graham, to examine
+the water in Duck Creek. I instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35°
+E. of North, until he should reach the creek, and if he found water in it
+to return direct to the camp, but that if water was not found on first
+making the creek, then he was to follow Duck Creek up to its junction
+with an eastern branch, surveyed also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence
+to the camp on a bearing of 240°. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with
+Yuranigh down the Bogan, to ascertain if the channel contained any pond
+between our camp and the part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.
+
+This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve hours,
+and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after examining its
+bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on the plains near
+the head of the eastern branch, but around which there was no grass, all
+having been recently burnt.
+
+20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven A.M., saying he had been twenty-
+four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the same time
+Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me that these
+animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud remaining in
+the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that four of the
+horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that William
+Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an early hour in
+the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the bullocks to
+Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks, also the horses,
+and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the whole of the
+cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks filled.
+
+21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to Nyingan, I
+conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of 1835), having on
+two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts under them all
+the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use the iron boat
+as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage forward;
+that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards the water I
+hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a convenient
+distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven forward to
+return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered possible,
+even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the fine
+reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the 14th
+May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from the gin's
+description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the disputed
+station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve miles from
+Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions to bring the
+drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning. I had sent
+thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of Baldock and
+the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no longer at
+Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats, the contents
+of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was immediately sent
+back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh horses had been left,
+to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to Nyingan during the
+night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the dray--already there with
+the harness casks--bringing an additional supply back in the kegs, when
+the bullocks returned next day.
+
+It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the
+state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at once,
+whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to cross
+to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I
+accordingly set out at 3 P.M., from where the water had been placed in
+the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal
+Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from
+the camp in the direction of 30° E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we
+reached at about 3½ miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed
+was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond
+of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel
+downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found the
+general direction was westward, until it JOINED THE BOGAN. We next
+followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,
+without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any
+of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,
+in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.
+
+22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western bends of the
+Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great pond beyond
+Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very shining and compact in
+a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed, that the grass was green
+as from recent rain, and that there was more chirping of birds; I was
+tempted once more by these indications, to look for water in the Bogan's
+almost hopeless channel, and there we found a pond, at sight of which
+poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell asleep almost in the
+water. It was small, but being sufficient for our immediate wants, we
+thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and proceeded on our
+eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this pond I discovered
+my old track, which we continued to follow across those large plains,
+whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless. These plains I soon
+again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels, distinctly visible
+in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven years. Arriving at length
+near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we resumed our examination
+of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle tracks; the ovens in which
+the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and about their old encampments
+many heaps of bones; but in none of the deep beds of former ponds or
+lagoons could we discover any water. The grass was nevertheless excellent
+and abundant; and its waste, added to the distress the want of water
+occasioned us, made us doubly lament the absence of civilised
+inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and fine soil could have
+been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor were even kangaroos
+or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer inhabitants of these parts. I
+turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it would have been unsafe
+to venture with cattle and drays into these regions before rain fell. In
+returning, we at first found it difficult to find our old track, by which
+alone we could hope that night to reach the small pond of the morning;
+but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and we had also the good
+fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the pond before sunset.
+There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad indeed to have even that
+water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy, had repeatedly thrown
+himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite ill from thirst.
+
+23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the pond;
+but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed, although with
+water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from an old marked
+tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160°, I several times during
+our ride fell in with the old track, and finally reached the camp after a
+rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party had arrived the
+previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr. Kennedy was
+absent, having set off that morning in search of water to the N. E. with
+Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving word that he should
+return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that hour, however, and at
+two I moved the party across the Bogan, and proceeded along open plains
+towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the intention of there refreshing
+the cattle and horses, and awaiting more favourable weather. I previously
+watered out of the half-boat, 106 bullocks, and gave a quart to each of
+the horses. On the way, the heat was so intense that our three best and
+strongest kangaroo dogs died, and it was not until 10 P. M. that the
+drays reached the ponds where I had proposed to encamp. About an hour and
+a half before, Mr. Kennedy also came in, having galloped the two horses
+66 miles, and hurt both their backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 P.
+M., therm. 80°, wet bulb, 68°.
+
+24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from ophthalmia,
+and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several of the men
+were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of this malady
+in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the warm air
+wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same effect until
+the weather changed. At 9 P. M., therm. 84°, with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.--BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.--MOVE
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.--HOT WIND.--HEAT GREATER
+THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.--PIPER'S
+INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.--HIS SENT TO BATHURST.--WEATHER CHANGES.--
+RAIN.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.--SALT MADE FROM THE SALT
+PLANT.--RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."--THE PARTY QUITS CANNONBÀ--CROSSES
+PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK--AND THENCE TO THE RIVER MACQUARIE.--OPHTHALMIA
+STILL TROUBLESOME.--APPROACH OF A FLOOD ANNOUNCED.--ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR
+MOONLIGHT.--MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.--NO
+WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."--DIFFICULTY OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM
+SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST THE REEDS.--"YULLIYALLY," A
+NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR
+NATIVE GUIDE.--CONDITION OF HIS COUNTRYMEN.--HOW AFFECTED BY THE
+INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.--AT LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.--DELAYED BY
+STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.--AT LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE
+RIVER WITH THE DARLING.--CROSS THE MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION--AND FORD
+THE DARLING AT WYÀBRY.
+
+25TH JANUARY.--Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application of
+leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent William
+Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought back
+enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The ground
+here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the Darling, with
+the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be lost in seeking
+some ponds where there might be also good grass for the cattle. Therm. at
+sunrise, 97°; at noon, 100°; at 9 P.M. 90°; with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+26TH JANUARY.--I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E. direction to
+where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected from a cloudy
+sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that water was near,
+as natives are seldom found where there is none. He returned early with
+the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of water in a creek about
+five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks. My eyes were so far
+recovered that I could observe the altitude of a star, thus ascertaining
+the latitude of this camp to be 31° 20' 20" S. Therm. at sunrise, 85°; at
+noon, 112°; at 9 P.M. 84°; with wet bulb, 70°.
+
+27TH JANUARY.--The whole party moved to the ponds called "Cannonbà" by
+the natives. There we found greater abundance of water and better grass
+than we had seen near water during the whole journey, and I determined to
+halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had previously
+intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle, when we
+should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers had been
+much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses had got out
+of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the Darling their
+services would be more required. I was also to try the experiment here,
+whether I might prosecute the journey without danger of losing my
+eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point, had been
+almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no hostile
+natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins; rain was
+daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly come in a
+short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented to me as
+needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the wheels;--
+and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we could encamp
+under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We placed our tents
+amongst shady bushes--set up the blacksmith's forge, and soon all hands
+were at work in their various avocations, whilst the cattle and horses
+enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance of water.
+
+Amongst the bushes here, a HAKEA, with simple filiform mucronulate leaves
+without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls resembling dry
+plums. Also the SENECIO CUNNINGHAMI (D.C.), found by Allan Cunningham on
+the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson discovered here a very pretty
+new TRICHINIUM, with heads of hoary pink flowers. [* T. SEMILANATUM
+(Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis, angulatis, foliis linearibus
+acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris hemisphericis, rachi
+densè bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis plumosis parcè
+lanatis.]
+
+I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan,
+consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E.
+of us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by
+Larmer is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful
+one it has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds
+(whence we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonbà;" and to
+what I suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point
+northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78°; at
+noon, 115°; at 4 P.M. 96°; at 9, 88°; with wet bulb, 73°.
+
+28TH JANUARY.--Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with large
+chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the bottom of
+one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about the banks.
+Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station had not
+been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by some old gins
+seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when the place was
+abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the W.N.W. of Mount
+Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse was broader
+than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained much granitic sand, all
+but identifying its sources with those of the Macquarie. This day was
+very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a shower fell about 3 P.M.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 78°; at noon, 115°; at 4 P.M. 108°; at 9, 84°;
+with wet bulb, 63°.
+
+29TH JANUARY.--A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer to
+115° in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon
+became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near
+us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a
+heavy shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102°.
+
+30TH JANUARY.--An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the quarter
+where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This day the
+doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in my
+former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor
+fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at noon, 103°; at 4 P.M., 108°; at 9,
+100 ½°; with wet bulb, 79°.
+
+31ST JANUARY.--The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of
+observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The table
+for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by my
+friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88° of Fahrenheit, whereas at 4
+P.M., the centigrade thermometer stood at 44½°, which is equal to 112° of
+Fahrenheit.
+
+This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking
+with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made
+some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various sayings
+and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never any serious
+intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its progress. The
+services of other more intelligent natives might easily have been
+obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but
+Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of
+course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long interval
+of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance, although
+during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay, the river
+Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party on this
+last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled gun,
+clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets, place in a
+tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a very bad
+shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to obtain any
+clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as interpreter; he
+went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had drawn his rations and
+those of the two young natives separately from the men's mess the week
+before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their fair share; he
+was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine departure,
+foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he could thus
+obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He also had it
+in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from the other
+two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had heard of
+the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards the
+cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were
+actively at their work,--blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers,--this
+man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse to boot,
+and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom he called
+his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native guide,
+just at the time when such guides were most required. The only difficulty
+I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two others,
+and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in advance, and
+he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to have him
+instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other native,
+Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He denied the
+intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to him to leave
+the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not understand him;
+that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so far from his own
+home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to Bathurst, and the
+rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the other two, and that
+he should be kept apart from them during the night. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 85°; at noon, 111°; at 4 P.M., 112°; at 9, 101°;--with wet bulb,
+78°.
+
+1ST FEBRUARY.--This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal Graham. Mr.
+Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police station, and
+make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper to Bathurst,
+his own district, which would put it out of his power to molest the party
+by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it. On them this
+measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh calmly observing
+that Piper had only himself to blame for what had befallen him, and that
+he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook also to obtain, if he
+could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those which had died from
+excessive heat. By that loss our party was left almost without dogs; and
+dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and emus, but to afford
+protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks by the natives, in
+which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were approaching, had
+been rather too successful against various armed parties of whites.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P.M., 106°; at 9 P.M.,
+88°;--with wet bulb, 76°.
+
+2ND FEBRUARY.--The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud which
+appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and eagerly
+watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a presage of
+rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P.M., 106; at 9,
+88°;--with wet bulb, 72°.
+
+3RD FEBRUARY.--High winds whistled among the trees this morning, and dark
+clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell about 9
+A.M., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of nimbus. The high
+wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and this morning, and
+in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But when the rain began
+to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which quarter the rain seemed
+to come. With it came a very peculiar smell, which I had noticed near
+Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the commencement of the rainy
+weather there; and nothing could have been more welcome to us now, than
+the prospect of rain, and the decided change in the temperature from 115°
+to 73°. This was almost the first day during a month in which the air had
+not been warmer than our blood; often had it been greater than fever
+heat, so that 73° felt to us as cool as 50° would have been to a resident
+of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at our camp, but it seemed that rain
+was falling about the sources of the Bogan and other places at which a
+supply of water was indispensable to enable us to proceed. At sunset,
+glimpses of a clear sky appeared about the horizon, and during the night
+the moon and stars came forth, and destroyed all hopes of more rain. We
+were thankful, however, for the relief afforded by what had fallen, which
+had lowered the temperature about 40 degrees, and enabled us to enjoy a
+night of refreshing rest. Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 80°; at 4
+P.M., 73°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+4TH FEBRUARY.--The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with refreshing
+breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61°. This day we had
+completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the tire-
+rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the wheels;
+the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat, as to
+have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were required
+by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts, and
+the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and zeal.
+Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for another
+effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 89°; at 4 P.M., 89°; at 9,
+72°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+5TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the mercurial column stood higher than I had
+yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across the
+sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards the
+northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the
+thermometer never having risen above 96°. By 6 P.M., the barometer had
+fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial
+circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a
+change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not only
+to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 73°;
+with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+6TH FEBRUARY.--Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky, and
+shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change seemed
+to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the
+previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and
+at about 7 A.M. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the
+woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer had
+fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue
+through the night. Range of thermometer from 74° to 72°.
+
+7TH FEBRUARY.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the
+mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening.
+About 10 A.M. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke
+through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus.
+Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie,
+Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had
+risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains
+about five inches.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for Piper's
+conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back a good
+bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various water-
+courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the natives
+about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at sunrise,
+74°; at noon, 86°; at 4 P.M., 90°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+8TH FEBRUARY.--The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air made us
+much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had been living,
+although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air,
+especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry
+heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it
+(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at
+noon, 96°; at 4 P.M., 95°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+9TH FEBRUARY.--The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to bestow
+more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these
+remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It
+appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only
+efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible
+condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a
+vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher
+country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the
+"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for
+licking the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep,
+lumps of it being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it
+is certain that by this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much
+injured in health and condition, losing their appetite for grass, and
+finally passing clay only, as may be seen near such places. In the salt
+plants on these plains, nature has amply provided for this taste of these
+large herbivora for salt. Our sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and
+the cattle ate greedily of various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly
+salt to the taste. The colour of the leaves of such bushes is usually a
+very light bluish green, and there are many species. That with the
+largest leaves, called salt-bush by stockmen, and by Dr. Brown RHAGODIA
+PARABOLICA, was very useful as a vegetable after extracting the salt
+sufficiently from it. This we accidentally discovered from some
+experiments made by Mr. Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the
+proportion of salt contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much
+as a twentieth part of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from
+two pounds of the leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the
+leaves a few minutes in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a
+third water, the leaves formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat
+resembling spinach. As the superior excellence of these runs for
+fattening cattle is admitted on all hands, as compared with others more
+abundant in grass on the eastern side of the great range, would it not be
+advisable for the colonists to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and
+thereby to produce a vegetable substitute for the rock salt, which is not
+only expensive, but only a very imperfect remedy for the clay-licking
+propensities of sheep and cattle on many runs? Thermometer at sunrise,
+70°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 98°; at 9, 86°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:--"Two pounds of the
+green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then
+strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted to
+a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint
+of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then
+exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a
+cubic shape having previously been formed."]
+
+10TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an
+animal apparently of the same genus as the DIPUS MITCHELLII, and which
+seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three
+millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three
+more. A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 P.M. a dark thunder
+cloud came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was
+very loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high,
+and rain heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 P.M., except in the N.
+E. where the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°.
+
+11TH FEBRUARY.--The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward of
+our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the Macquarie. I hoped
+to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party halting on it
+one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I was now
+convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party until it
+could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it,
+with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp,
+a direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to
+divide the journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I
+crossed plains covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at
+length obtained a sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck
+Creek (that of Sturt), or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the
+bearing of Mount Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined
+the bed of the Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing
+therein the least indication of water, and returned to the camp fully
+resolved to proceed next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little
+way below Mount Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for
+the cattle to travel over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at
+noon, 73°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. From an
+average of twenty-five observations of the mercurial column, the height
+of this station has been determined to be 566 English feet above the
+level of the sea.
+
+12TH FEBRUARY.--We broke up our encampment on Cannonbà ponds, where we
+had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and crossing the
+channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we travelled over
+open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At thirteen miles we
+reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra," a name by which it
+is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this we crossed several
+branches, from which it would appear as if the name was derived from that
+of the hand, which is the same, especially as natives sometimes hold up
+the hand and extend the fingers, when they would express that a river has
+various branches or sources. I went on with an advanced party towards the
+Macquarie, and encamped on the bank of that river at 5 P. M. The thick
+grass, low forests of yarra trees, and finally the majestic blue gum
+trees along the river margin, reminded me of the northern rivers seen
+during my journey of 1831. Still even the bed of this was dry, and I
+found only two water holes on examining the channel for two miles. One of
+these was, however, deep, and we encamped near it, surrounded by
+excellent grass in great abundance. The Macquarie, like other Australian
+rivers, has a peculiar character, and this was soon apparent in the reeds
+and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy plats, and not, as usual in other
+rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks. The channel was here deep and
+dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by Marra Creek, the ACACIA
+SALICINA, whereof the wood has a strong perfume resembling violets, also
+a new small-leaved KOCHIA with intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at
+sunrise, 47°; at 4 P. M., 77°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+[* K. THYMIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis
+pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.]
+
+13TH FEBRUARY.--I was again laid up with the MALADIE DU PAYS--sore eyes.
+Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster, and to
+various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to which I
+required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down. But no
+one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as no
+person had passed that way; the country being more open on the eastern
+side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at Gràway,
+about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the west bank.
+Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the mounted police. To
+my most important question--what water was to be found lower down in the
+river--the reply was very satisfactory; namely, "plenty, and a FLOOD
+COMING DOWN from the Turmountains." The two policemen said they had
+travelled twenty miles with it, on the day previous, and that it would
+still take some time to arrive near our camp. About noon the drays
+arrived in good order, having been encamped where there was no water
+about six miles short of our camp, the whole distance travelled, from
+Cannonbà to the Macquarie, having been about nineteen miles. In the
+afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the river, reported on their
+return, that the flood poured in upon them when in the river bed, so
+suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed of the Macquarie
+before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I could scarcely
+believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who had been put
+to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I stationed a man
+with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on the flood's
+appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the channel
+nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to see, as
+well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came, however,
+but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp. Some
+hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like that of
+a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking
+timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very
+slow degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw
+various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood
+appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending
+of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene moonlight
+night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of waters and
+loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the next bend.
+It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a moving cataract,
+tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them against its banks. It
+was preceded by a point of meandering water, picking its way, like a
+thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark, dry, and shady bed,
+of what thus again became a flowing river. By my party, situated as we
+were at that time, beating about the country, and impeded in our journey,
+solely by the almost total absence of water--suffering excessively from
+thirst and extreme heat,--I am convinced the scene never can be
+forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the product of storms in the far
+off mountains, that overlooked our homes. My first impulse was to have
+welcomed this flood on our knees, for the scene was sublime in itself,
+while the subject--an abundance of water sent to us in a desert--greatly
+heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice it to say, I had witnessed
+nothing of such interest in all my Australian travels. Even the heavens
+presented something new, at least uncommon, and therefore in harmony with
+this scene; the variable star ARGUS had increased to the first magnitude,
+just above the beautiful constellation of the southern cross, which
+slightly inclined over the river, in the only portion of sky seen through
+the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly increasing in magnitude,
+might, as characteristic of her rivers, be recognized as the star of
+Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The river gradually filled up
+the channel nearly bank high, while the living cataract travelled onward,
+much slower than I had expected to see it; so slowly, indeed, that more
+than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet music of the head of the
+flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the murmur of waters, and
+the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly through the tortuous
+windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to sleep by that melody
+of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and evidently so unwonted in the
+dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon,
+79°; at 4 P. M., 88°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+14TH FEBRUARY.--The river had risen to within six feet of the top of the
+banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but no
+longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion
+downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the
+Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a
+probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing
+the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the
+Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling
+soon into a cart track which led us to Gràway, Mr. Kinghorne's
+cattlestation, and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of
+the river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so
+generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of
+the marshes. The IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, with its long head of white silky
+flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock, on
+the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P. M.,
+82°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 60°. Height above the level of the sea,
+475 feet.
+
+15TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day, and
+guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have his
+assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other
+objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees
+of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was
+visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon.
+Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most formidable
+impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty of these got
+astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank of rather firm
+ground, in lat. 30° 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on some parts of
+open plains near the marshes, and the best was the PANICUM LOEVINODE of
+Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as having been found
+pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we could not then discover.
+Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was called by the natives "coolly,"
+and that the gins gather it in great quantities, and pound the seeds
+between stones with water, forming a kind of paste or bread; thus was
+clearly explained the object of those heaps of this grass which we had
+formerly seen on the banks of the Darling. There they had formed the
+native's harvest field. There also I observed a brome grass, probably not
+distinct from the BROODS AUSTRALIS of Brown; it called to mind the
+squarrose brome grass of Europe. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon,
+87°; at 4, 89°; at 9, 73°;--with wet bulb, 66°.
+
+[* Vol. i. p. 237.]
+
+16TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to examine
+Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be found in it
+lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with the store-
+keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost sheep in
+the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not very far
+from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the flock.
+Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the cattle.
+We had still the Macquarie at hand--deep, muddy, and stagnant--not above
+thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could scarcely approach
+the water without sinking to the knees. We could water the horses with
+buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of filling one of the
+half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means, was inevitable,
+and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a wheel required
+repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these reasons found
+it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly. At sunset,
+Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the "Marra," (Duck
+Creek).
+
+Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the ANDROPOGON
+SERICEUS and an ERIANTHUS, which appeared to differ from E. FULVUS in
+having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the European LYTHRUM
+SALICARIA, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among the reeds of the
+Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the Thames. We saw also
+MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D. C.), a variety with toothed
+leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling B. HETERODONTA, only the leaves were
+entire. A new species of LOTUS appeared among the reeds, very near the
+narrow-leaved form of L. AUSTRALIS on the one hand, and the South
+European narrow-leaved form of L. CORNICULATUS on the other; the flowers
+were pink, and smaller than in L. AUSTRALIS.[*] Also an ETHULIA [**],
+which may, on further examination, constitute a new genus; it was found
+by Allan Cunningham on the Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
+86°; at 4 P.M., 84°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus
+v. lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3--6-
+floris, calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-
+acuminatis tubo suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.]
+
+[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo, foliis
+oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis
+globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis
+paucis brevibus.]
+
+17TH FEBRUARY.--The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne having shown
+me a few miles more of the best ground between the scrubs and reeds, went
+towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie, where a belt of open
+forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass. He prevailed on a
+native whom he met with there to come with him to me, and to guide me to
+water until I reached the Bàrwan. This native at first seemed rather
+afraid of our numerous party, but our own native, Yuranigh, endeavoured
+by every means to make him at ease, and to induce him to remain with us.
+He guided us this day by fine open ground westward of the marshes, to a
+part of the Macquarie where the banks were solid enough to admit of the
+cattle drinking. The name was Bilgawàngara; I reached the spot early, but
+at sunset no drays had come up. At length I was informed that such was
+the softness of the soil, that the drays had sank frequently, that two
+were fast in one place, four in another, and that two of the bullocks
+were astray. The marshes were said to be just then occupied by some angry
+tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne had warned me to be on my guard. The
+patience necessary to any traveller depending on bullocks and bullock
+drivers, I then thought ought to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was
+very shy, and Yuranigh feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for
+finding water--on our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not
+have done then to have sent him away. The weather might change, and these
+marshes become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of
+Providence in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red
+Sea. It depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be
+considered Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the
+moon had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat.
+30° 45' 55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4 P.M., 88°;
+at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+18TH FEBRUARY.--Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind, and the
+iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The
+cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's
+journey without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of
+the two lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to
+little Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had
+lost them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search,
+as Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of
+entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his
+escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that
+the white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the
+country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere
+child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them being
+young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds.
+
+In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the
+native tobacco, NICOTIANA SUAVEOLEUS, the MINURIA HETEROPHYLLA (D.C.),
+found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a FUGOSIA near F.
+DIGITATA of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery ATRIPLEX
+with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 93°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 67°;--
+with wet bulb 59°.
+
+[* A. NUMMULARIA (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis
+alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque
+argenteis, floribus monoïcis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis
+subrotundis dentatis basi connatis.]
+
+19TH FEBRUARY.--We set off early, guided by our native friend. He was a
+very perfect specimen of the GENUS HOMO, and such as never is to be seen,
+except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale of
+graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free
+enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than
+can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod
+animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs;
+the fulness yet perfect elasticity of the GLUTEI muscles. The hollowness
+of the back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso,
+ornamented as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised
+scarifications most tastefully placed; such were some of the
+characteristics of this perfect "piece of work." Compared with it, the
+civilised animal, when considered merely in the light of a specimen in
+natural history, how inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of
+that class, for such teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of
+sight, hearing, smelling, tasting, feeling; for such powers of running,
+climbing, or walking; for such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of
+all that nature provides for her children of the woods. Such health and
+exemption from disease; such intensity of existence, in short, must be
+far beyond the enjoyments of civilised men, with all that art can do for
+them; and the proof of this is to be found in the failure of all attempts
+to persuade these free denizens of uncultivated earth to forsake it for
+the tilled ground. They prefer the land unbroken and free from the
+earliest curse pronounced against the first banished and first created
+man. The only kindness we could do for them, would be to let them and
+their wide range of territory alone; to act otherwise and profess good-
+will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the land without producing a
+change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that which took place on
+man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have hitherto lived utterly
+ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or the utility of
+ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would, no doubt,
+prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to original sin,
+even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were the reflections
+suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped on lightly before
+me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our party, who,
+muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in favour of our
+pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our faithful Yuranigh
+was all that could be wished. He was assiduously making to the stranger
+such explanations of our wants and purposes, as induced him to conduct us
+in the direction these required. He led us, thus admonished, over those
+parts of the country most favourable for the passage of wheels. The
+rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts were covered with most
+luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a salt-bush plain, where
+there was a small pond of water left by the last rains on a clay surface.
+There was certainly enough for ourselves and horses, but it appeared that
+our guide had greatly underrated the capacity for water, of our hundred
+bullocks. For these, however, there was superb grass to the westward, and
+a little dew fell on it during the night. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at
+noon, 102°; at 4 P. M., 104°; at 9, 77°;--with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+20TH FEBRUARY.--From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as
+possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather
+soft, otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the
+westward, and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow
+belts of reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great
+satisfaction to learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A
+shallow creek appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide
+had expected to find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently
+drank up there, what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He
+showed us the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were
+made to feel, in common with the aborigines, those privations to which
+they are exposed by the white man's access to their country. On
+proceeding some miles further, our guide following down the channel, he
+at length appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe,
+on which Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and
+there, in fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in
+the attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wámmerawá,
+the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and
+marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds may
+have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from the
+"balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan,
+Murrumbidgee, and Millewà; the former being a cane or bamboo, the latter
+a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found good
+grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was fringed
+with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA
+observed at Mudá on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the
+spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the teams
+of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been damaged; the
+six others were brought up in the course of the evening. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 60°; at 4 P. M., 103°; at 9, 78°;--with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+21ST FEBRUARY.--The first thing done this morning was to send back cattle
+to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it might be
+repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the journey
+by 1 P. M. The barometer was going down at a rate which was alarming
+enough, considering what our position must have been there in a flood, or
+even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward with the
+light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 P. M. to
+"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again,
+he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden
+the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water
+that night, nor until we could reach the Bàrwan, then distant, I was
+quite sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude
+observed (30° 19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back
+directions that the drays should at once halt, taking their places beside
+the leading dray, and that the cattle should be driven back in the
+morning to be watered at the last camp (Warranb), and then to return and
+follow in my track. Mr. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to
+serve out a week's rations to the party with the drays, and he returned
+to my camp by 2 A. M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the
+former messenger, rations for my party. Here we found the KERAUDRENIA
+INTEGRIFOLIA. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 105°; at 9, 83°;--
+with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+22D FEBRUARY.--My guide was now desirous that I should cross the
+Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more favourable
+for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by drawing
+lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would cross and
+impede my journey to the Bàrwan. There were the Castlereagh, Morissett's
+Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct, which it
+was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least fifty
+miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.]
+
+An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the
+necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in
+communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills which
+partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was
+Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that some
+flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we might
+therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie. This,
+with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made intelligible
+to our Bàrwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly. He took us
+through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water usually
+lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay happens to
+be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But the water in
+these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled into hard clay
+by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first become
+sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots, where
+nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are well
+known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and such
+places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by the
+most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can exist
+apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers. Cattle
+find these places and come from stations often many miles distant,
+attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus
+treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy
+the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the
+kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more
+disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain
+every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot"
+should appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually
+happened to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want
+of water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110°. The store-keeper
+was taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and the
+fate of the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the sheep,
+which had not drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to me at
+that time. It may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at length
+saw before me large basins of water in the channel of the Macquarie, when
+I next approached the banks, after a journey at a good pace for six hours
+and a half. We had made it below the junction of Morissett's Ponds, and
+found that a recent flood had filled its channel with water. The natives
+dived into it to cure their headaches, as they said, and seemed to go
+completely under water, in order to take a cool drink. We had reached the
+united channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's Ponds, and were at an
+easy day's journey only distant from the junction with the BÀRWAN or
+"Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this river is indispensable
+amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not appear to know it to be
+the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to such rivers their
+proper names as early as possible after they have been ascertained, were
+it only to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves of the
+intelligence and assistance of the natives, in identifying the country by
+means of the published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to the
+natives as the Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wàwill; and the lower part
+of the Macquarie, as the Wammerawà. The squatting system of occupation
+requires still more that the native names of rivers should be known to
+commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast extent,
+whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach or
+control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line the
+squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 110°; at 4 P. M., 107°; at 9, 89°;
+--with wet bulb 72°.
+
+23RD FEBRUARY.--The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence of
+them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I had
+sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to send
+forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought me
+word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the
+morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him. They
+had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the water,
+as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was excessive,
+a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the banks of the
+Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus SCLEROLOENA was remarked;
+it was perhaps not distinct from S. UNIFLORA. The GOODENIA GENICULATA
+overran the ground, with its strawberry-like runners, and yellow flowers.
+Latitude, 30° 12' 56" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 105°; at 4
+P.M., 94°; at 9, 73°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+24TH FEBRUARY.--Some of the teams came up, having been out all night. The
+drivers brought me word that they had been detached at twilight to come
+six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could not see my
+track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks had strayed
+from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of delay by the
+bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey (thirteen
+miles) of the Bàrwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days, and
+really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers
+seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 80°; at 4
+P.M., 85°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+25TH FEBRUARY.--In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the stray
+bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a bullock
+driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the track of
+the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°;
+at noon, 90°; at 4 P.M., 94°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+26TH FEBRUARY.--Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only one of
+the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace
+twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the day; he
+said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in with. I
+blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him forthwith on
+foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we were doomed
+to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by carrying on the
+mapping of our survey, in order to make good our longitude at crossing
+the Bàrwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 101°;
+at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 62.°
+
+27TH FEBRUARY.--When the teams were about to be put to the drays this
+morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed the
+party until 10 A.M., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I
+reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a
+proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such
+unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground,
+having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about
+six miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and
+said they called that the "Bàrwan." As it was still a mere chain of
+ponds, though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel;
+he also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was
+convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the
+channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the
+junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it,
+however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after
+him, to rejoin the party.
+
+I this day gave "Yulliyàlly," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe,
+tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne,
+certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 62°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 97°; at 9, 70°;--
+with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+28TH FEBRUARY.--The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp at 6
+A.M., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost
+bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came
+upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a
+stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawà, on which I had been
+encamped, joined the Bàrwan, then on my right, within two miles of the
+spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr.
+Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and
+on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna,
+Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Bàrwan. I turned
+with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Bàrwan, and encamped
+thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which our
+exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a good
+current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like a
+river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good
+ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had
+been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the
+cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of
+Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which we
+had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot
+weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*] Thermometer
+at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 101°; at 4 P.M., 100°; at 9, with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+[* Calotis SCAPIGERA (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus
+radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis
+robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.--A very
+distinct species. Habit of BRACHYSTEPHIUM SCAPIGERUM D. C.: but that
+ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in
+proportion to the size of the capitulum.]
+
+1ST MARCH.--When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher
+point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or
+bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we found
+it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot
+season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle
+stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary
+arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed quite
+unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length
+arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many
+rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final
+outlet or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch
+one might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the
+same river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood
+had gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast
+regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another
+instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more apparent to
+man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or attentively
+examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to him. The very
+slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains seems finely
+adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this part of the
+earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern coastranges
+were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of sustained
+current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such inclined
+channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread into a
+net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill
+lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous
+channel, would at once run off into the ocean.
+
+[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been
+wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as CARÀWY, which the name
+resembles, means any deep water-hole.]
+
+In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route with
+our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have preferred,
+and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the known limits of
+this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which the route
+necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had not lost
+time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over very
+considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more desirable
+to any country we might discover, than one liable to be interrupted by
+flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of our drays, along
+the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a new and direct route
+from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by way of Bathurst; and
+afforded access to a vast extent of excellent pasturage on the Macquarie,
+along the western margin of the marshes, which land would, no doubt, be
+soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a climate, and where water is so
+frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found that the shortest line of
+route with such advantages would be more frequented than any longer line,
+possessing only the remote advantage of security from interruption by too
+much water. Thermometer at sunrise, 64°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P.M., 101°;
+at 9, 81°; with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+2ND MARCH--MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyàbry, (Mr.
+Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays,
+although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better
+approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so
+attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without
+some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I sent
+some men to the last-mentioned work.
+
+I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the
+rivers Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains
+having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the
+Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to
+guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a
+distance of only seven miles beyond the Bàrwan there at the "Morella
+Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain
+seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were
+very fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously
+ascertained to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr.
+Lindley CAPPARIS MITCHELLII.[*] We found back from this camp the
+RUTIDOSIS HELYCHRYSOIDES of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at
+noon, 101°; at 4 P.M.; 100°; at 9, 78°; and with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.]
+
+3D MARCH.--Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better
+approaches to the ford across the Bàrwan at Mr. Parnell's station.
+Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and
+Darling at our present camp to be 147° 33' 45" E., by actual measurements
+connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr. Kennedy had chained
+the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had connected his work with
+latitudes observed at almost every encampment, and after determining at
+various points the magnetic variation, which appeared to be very steady,
+I made the latitude of this camp 30° 6' 11" south. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 72°; at noon, 99°; at 4 P.M., 97°; at 9, 72°; and with wet bulb,
+65°. The height above the sea level of the bed of the river here, the
+average result of eight observations, as calculated by Capt. King, was
+415 feet.
+
+4TH MARCH.--The party moved off towards the ford over the Bàrwan at
+Wyàbry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its
+junction with the Bàrwan; there, although the approaches had been well
+enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of
+which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft
+and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which earth
+was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived about
+noon at Wyàbry, and by 2 P.M. the whole was safely encamped on the right
+bank of the Bàrwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from my son,
+commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most favourable
+account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of my proposed
+route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the hands of a
+native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr. Lawson, being
+then on his way down the river, had promised to send them to me, from a
+station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke, where it had been
+supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30° 5' 41" S. On this
+northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in botany, and found
+some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of SENERIO
+BRACHYLOENUS D. C., a kind of groundsel; MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, loaded with
+purple blossoms, and a variety of HELICHRYSUM BRACTEATUM, somewhat
+different in the leaves from the usual state of the species. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 70°; at 4 P.M., 98°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+
+
+Chapter III.
+
+THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED BY
+TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS OR
+SPRINGS CALLED "CARÀWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH
+THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART OF
+SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY
+EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST
+RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY
+CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT BANK.--
+ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH GRASS ON
+THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN RECONNOITRE
+THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A NATIVE.--TWO
+NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH THE ASSEMBLED
+POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE TRIBES.--CORDIAL
+RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE
+NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE
+BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY, CATTLE
+MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DÉPÔT CAMP AT
+A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM
+SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.
+
+5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two natives,
+brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the Narran,
+which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles we
+passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the left,
+which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of conglomerate
+rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains of quartz
+cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become undulating ground as
+we proceeded northward, and the surface became firmer. At length the
+country opened into slight undulations, well clothed with grass, and good
+for travelling over, the soil being full of the same hard rock found on
+the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the lowest parts of that
+river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed to be but the
+decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles of quartz so
+thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places so thickly as
+to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses grew on those
+plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm undulating
+stony surface and open character of the country, where I had expected to
+see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight
+elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a
+name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations TOO LOW to
+be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of
+route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much
+novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The ANGOPHORA LANCEOLATA
+was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some
+very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the ACACIA
+STENOPHYLLA of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such profusion
+as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I supposed it
+was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another place many of
+the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and learnt from our
+guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat resembled that of the
+Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Mùnumulà is the native name. The grasses
+comprised a great variety, and amongst the plants a beautiful little
+BRUNONIA, not more than four inches high, with smaller flower-heads than
+those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely at all lobed, and a hairy
+indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although the fruit had been
+gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown, was also here; and I
+saw one or two trees of a species of CAPPARIS. Mr. Stephenson found a
+great variety of new insects also.
+
+[* B. SIMPLEX (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque
+longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,
+bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]
+
+Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some verdant
+grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water; and here
+we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds were called
+"Caràwy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to pass on
+towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed, twenty-five
+miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some natives running
+off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we should do them no
+harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake them. The
+undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and west in
+their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general course of
+the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in other
+parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the
+fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much
+resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these
+springs we found a new HELICHRYSUM.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+[* HELICHRYSUM RAMOSISSIMUM (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde ramosum
+arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis acutis,
+capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri
+squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]
+
+6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the excessive
+length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(16½ miles by
+latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a beautiful
+cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of fresh branches
+of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted home of the
+fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods of the
+acacia already mentioned (Mùnumulà). The water was surrounded by fresh
+herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such the home
+whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable guides, I
+could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon trample
+these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding verdure
+and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured but acute
+guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid race.
+
+[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may LAUGH inwardly--
+conscience may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]
+
+All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our
+drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting
+before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be
+watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question; and
+this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward to ask
+if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly exhausted. The
+fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in the morning, after
+passing a night without water, had been adopted, and as, on the day
+before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of reaching my
+camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly directed them
+to be brought forward; but the consequence of this derangement was the
+death of one, and much injury to many others. This contretemps arose
+wholly from the guides not having been understood at the Barwan as to the
+real distance, and this we had calculated too surely upon. Latitude 29°
+52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 96°; at 4 P. M.,
+102°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had been
+watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 A. M. I left them in Mr.
+Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all the
+bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that had
+been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more. The
+guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had understood
+when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles from these
+springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the country to
+improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the most open parts of
+scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend clearly how desirable
+that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after travelling about seven miles,
+they pointed to a line of trees as the "Narran," beyond an extensive open
+country, which had a singular appearance from being higher than that we
+were upon. We crossed one or two slight elevations wholly composed of
+compact felspar in blocks--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of
+strata, whereof the strike always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious
+new plants and fruits appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of
+which was a very pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread
+over several yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an
+elongated egg; it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the
+natives "Doobàh." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best
+roasted. As we approached the elevated country between us and the distant
+line of trees, we perceived that the vast level was covered with
+POLYGONUM JUNCEUM in a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as
+I had never seen elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called
+it, which looks ever quite dry and withered along the margins of the
+Darling. We had good reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we
+found amongst it pure water in great abundance, into which all our native
+companions immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This,
+they said, was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the
+name of Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps.
+They seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and
+pointed to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran
+was there. I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the
+nearest trees beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft
+mud, precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of
+bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now
+far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a
+position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the
+intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare
+materials for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a
+small clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did
+not encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by
+the westward, in which direction the open country extended to the
+horizon. The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by
+wet ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where
+horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had
+been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water
+until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.
+Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward to
+the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all
+the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays
+there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense
+heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the day,
+rose to 103° in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp, 29° 45'
+51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 P. M., 97°; at 9,
+69°; ditto with wet bulb, 57°. The height of this camp above the sea, the
+average of five registered observations, is 442 feet.
+
+8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most extensive.
+Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual appearance
+there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet still
+the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between that
+slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been so
+scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great
+distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no
+longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I
+set the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the
+muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed
+it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,
+beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp
+came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before
+us, which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the
+southward, was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual
+rock, felspar; and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded
+the further progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended
+north-west, as most others did in this extensive basin; and this
+direction being nearly parallel to that of the coast ranges further
+northward, seemed to afford additional reason for expecting to find
+anticlinal and synclinal lines, and, consequently, rivers, much in the
+same direction. D'Urban's group, distant 150 miles lower down the
+Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock, exactly similar to this,
+exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into irregular polygons, some of
+the faces being curved. This rock is most extensively distributed in the
+interior of New South Wales. It was not until the evening of this day
+that the approach of the drays was announced, and then prematurely, the
+teams only having been brought forward to the water without them. So weak
+were the unfortunate animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the
+numbers, could they be made to draw the drays forward, for the short
+distance of eight miles; a distance which we had been given to understand
+was so much greater. Forward, all was most promising, and it may be
+imagined how bitterly I regretted the alteration of my original plan of
+equipment, which had reference to horses and light carts alone. A new
+species of ANTHISTIRIA occurred here, perfectly distinct from the
+kangaroo grass of the colony, very like APLUDA MUTICA, and remarkable for
+the smooth shining appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The
+TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its
+long silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very
+curious new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of CYPERUS; the TRICHINIUM
+LANATUM in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed
+(CALAMAGROSTIS of England), and which proved to be the little-known
+TRIRAPHIS MOLLIS. On the margin of the morass the DACTYLOCTENIUM
+RADULANS, spreading over the interstices, reminded the traveller of the
+grasses of Egypt; and, in stony ground near the morass, we observed the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA of Brown. Thermometer at sunrise, 66°; at noon, 98°; at 4
+P. M. 102°; at 9, 81°; ditto with wet bulb, 74°.
+
+[* A. MEMBRANACEA (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine membranaceis
+foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis pedicellatis
+(masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, aristâ glaberrimâ glumâ 3plo
+longiore.]
+
+[** K. LANOSA (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis
+cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]
+
+9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to return,
+and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be extremely
+useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went forward
+this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our interpreter,
+all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine reaches of water
+appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to the northward, but
+which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp, abruptly terminated
+like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it went to, they
+pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp as the final
+depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the contents of a
+river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate so hot and
+dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which led us nearly
+due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on a good
+gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing a
+slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the
+shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we
+again came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for
+about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and
+lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and
+with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent
+grass. The PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a
+grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of
+paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly
+for the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles.
+I counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass
+only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow
+back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a
+very open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any
+other part of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of
+the natives; and these children of the soil were doing every thing in
+their power to assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the
+white man's cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives
+during the whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and
+I to see them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and
+not at all unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce
+us to the inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us
+further. The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost
+to prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 99°;
+at 4 P. M., 105°; at 9, 83°; ditto with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I
+continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but
+with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,
+through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the
+river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc.
+We were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no
+perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had
+examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and the
+dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and
+banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide
+said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp we
+kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.
+This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water our
+horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,
+under a temperature of 105° in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently
+about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of
+perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on
+the level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very
+tired, however, and pointed to the large muscles of the RECTUS FEMORIS as
+if they pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the
+drays that had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring
+double teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity
+of our camp we found the TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, with heads of flowers
+nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near E. PULVERULENTA, but having
+more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall
+glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy KOCHIA was
+intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77°; at noon,
+102°; at 4, 107°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+[* H. GLAUCA (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis
+oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grossè serratis, racemis
+apice aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]
+
+[** K. VILLOSA (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus
+villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]
+
+11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives, the
+tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the stockman
+on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that they had been
+very useful. I this morning examined the country to the westward of the
+swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could pass, and so avoid much
+soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the watery Narran penetrated into
+the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting there little hollows full of
+rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so unwonted amongst rocks
+characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one little hollow, to the
+westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two men with a pickaxe and
+shovel to have continued it through, and so to have opened a new channel
+for the passage of the waters of the Narran swamp, into the dry country
+between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 55°; at noon, 105°; at
+4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the jaded
+bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses I might
+have continued the journey. The very extensive country before us, which
+appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and irrigated
+by little canals winding amongst POLYGONUM JUNCEUM. This open country
+appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles, thence to turn
+eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to the Barwan. I
+regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to admit of our
+tracing its limits to the eastward.
+
+This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he
+strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and
+Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river
+which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,
+almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was
+already on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his
+account of the rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged
+to depend, even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.
+
+This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two platforms,
+to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp, could be passed
+without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the drays. The
+sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS),
+found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen feet long, two
+feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long, fixed at each
+end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled a wooden
+railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry both
+wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was
+filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,
+alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to
+support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge
+or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 107°;
+at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays trundled
+across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in the event of
+an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable on our return.
+Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing over a gravelly
+bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The drays were slow in
+arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft and hollow, but by
+sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on the Narran.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 71°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 100°; at 9,
+71°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The height of this camp above the sea,
+according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.
+
+14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance, to a
+distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I
+intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five
+miles, that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work,
+might have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however,
+again occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now
+it was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It
+really seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on
+bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until
+9 A. M., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran, after
+travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found the
+fragrant JASMINUM LINEARE in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a bulb
+which proved to be the ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM of Brown; a shrub ten feet
+high, in fruit, the CANTHIUM OLEIFOLIUM of Sir William Hooker; a fine new
+CHENOPODIUM, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*]; and a
+hoary variety of ACACIA LEPTOCLADA, or perhaps a distinct species, having
+a good deal of the aspect of A. DEALBATA, but the leaves and glands
+nearer those of A. LEPTOCLADA, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 70°; at noon, 103°; at 4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 81°;--with wet bulb,
+75°.
+
+[* C. AURICOMUM (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,
+foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis
+lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris
+tomentosis.]
+
+15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding, that
+the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without great
+difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the
+drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a
+process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not
+until 1 A. M. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought
+to the camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the
+field of discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were
+unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive
+heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks
+unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter
+party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,
+leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depôt, on
+some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29° 38' 21" south.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 73°; at noon, 84°; at 4 P. M., 86°; at 9, 65°;--
+with wet bulb, 60°.
+
+16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend of the
+Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant grass. The
+drays arrived by 11 A. M. in such good order, that I was induced to try
+whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short journeys, the party
+could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I could leave the whole in
+one depôt, to rest and refresh, while I took my intended ride forward.
+Latitude, 29° 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 86°; at 4
+P. M., 87°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward as well
+as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the progress
+of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains were
+evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered wholly
+impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29° 29' 11" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 87°; at 4 P. M., 91°; at 9, 62°;--
+with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft ground;
+all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising
+ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,
+at a distance of 2½ miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual
+conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch in
+bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly
+ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.
+Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked, upon
+the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris
+forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.
+From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a
+good direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony
+ground I found a new PITTOSPORUM five feet high, with long narrow leaves,
+in the way of P. ROEANUM and ANGUSTIFOLIUM, but distinct from both in the
+form of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29° 25' 21". Thermometer at
+sunrise, 53°; at noon, 90°; at 4 P. M., 96°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb,
+61°.
+
+[* P. SALICINUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis
+acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus,
+fructibus subglobosis vix compressis.]
+
+19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank, our
+course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after travelling
+six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for the drays,
+but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward, and I
+contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again, by
+travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been marked
+out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found a
+fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five
+miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it,
+I returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude
+observed, 29° 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57°; at 4 P. M., 96°;
+at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we proceeded in a
+nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than we had recently
+traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found amongst much
+excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of Anthistiria
+appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort, although
+this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains westward
+of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of moisture. Here,
+however, this variety presented the same knotty head, where other grasses
+grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme eastern turn of the
+Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks appeared in the bed, as if
+the river was passing through the stock of the gravelly ridge I had
+visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found about the basin of
+the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much felspar, and having
+pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of the conglomerate in
+the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at the edges. Here the
+poor natives had been very industrious, as was evident from heaps of the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE, and of the same redstalked coral-like plant,
+also mentioned as having been observed in similar heaps, on the banks of
+the Darling, during my journey of 1835 (vol. i. p. 238). I now
+ascertained that the seed of the latter is also collected by the natives
+and made into a paste. This seed was black and small, resembling fine
+gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was sweet and pleasant to the
+taste, possessing a nutty flavour.
+
+The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in
+these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft
+smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil
+bore the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and
+amongst them those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with
+the prints likewise of other BIPEDS, such as emus and kangaroos, and also
+those of the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other
+animals all new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man
+alone were familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other
+animals, simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much
+afraid of us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed
+strange, that in a climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise,
+the circumstances of man's existence should be the most degrading.
+Latitude of our camp, 29° 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The mean
+elevation above the sea of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in
+number, was 477 feet; the bed of the river being about 15 feet lower.
+
+[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way To kailyards green, While faithless
+   snaws ilk step betray Whar she has been."   BURNS.]
+
+21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming
+favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some
+traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner
+Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded
+the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to his
+map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with gently
+sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances induced me to
+cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward, until meeting
+with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran, where we
+encamped in latitude 29° 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
+noon, 97°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 72°; ditto with wet bulb, 66°.
+
+22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the
+surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on
+Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded
+rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At
+one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a
+ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of
+compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which
+large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial decomposition
+of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them once more to the
+action of water. The force of those waters, however, had not been
+sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending right
+across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps, of a
+river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and terminating
+in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 98°;
+at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 66°. Height above the sea, 515 feet, from
+eight observations.
+
+23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,
+soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,
+almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we pursued
+a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the Narran
+at 8½ miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,
+especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small bush
+bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among the
+sedges by the river we found the KYLLINGA MONOCEPHALA; and, on the rich
+black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with
+large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small
+bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of
+Brown's SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, or a new species distinguished by its narrow
+sharp-pointed leaves. The LORANTHUS LINEARI. FOLIUS was growing on the
+rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by the
+parasitical ORANGE LORANTH.[*] Lat., 29°1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,
+51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 99°; at 9, 70°;--wet bulb, 63°.
+
+[* L. AURANTIACUS (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus,
+foliis oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve
+acuminatis glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio
+brevioribus ditrichotomis, floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis
+superne latioribus truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem
+geniculato, stigmate dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.]
+
+24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach the
+Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the
+Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to
+the northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn
+towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far
+from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary
+to descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn
+pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we
+had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low
+range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,
+covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller
+the most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached
+the Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had
+travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it
+was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the
+cattle should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to
+lose one day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals.
+Casuarinae now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks
+of the Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods
+we passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a
+different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the
+colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be a
+broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.
+We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,
+GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having
+long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*]
+The rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with
+yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed
+from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed
+amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,
+with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the
+bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.
+
+[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus
+pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]
+
+[** Loranthus LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus
+acutis carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus
+bifloris, calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6
+linearibus supra basin coalitis.]
+
+The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked
+Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29° 6' 33"
+S.; therm. at sunrise, 48°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 74°; ditto with wet
+bulb, 62°.
+
+25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.
+Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate
+journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I
+found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its
+course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges
+on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came
+from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued
+northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed
+through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence descending
+in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs, and only
+reached the river after riding 2½ miles in that direction. I saw a
+continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river
+bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where
+the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who
+did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from him,
+and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a
+beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on
+the bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back,
+until within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of
+the party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a
+species of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct.
+The teams brought the drays in, about 5 P. M.; one animal of all being
+missing. Therm. at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 89°; at 4 P. M., 91°; at 9,
+60°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in search
+of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and proceeded
+along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the party, having
+found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late encampment. The
+natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having previously set fire to the
+grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their fires, and encamped on the
+river bank in lat. 29° 1' 57" S.
+
+A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow
+portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of
+withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the ashes
+of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass
+(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but
+constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the
+only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired
+on our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to
+drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both
+these kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me
+one of their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum,
+and tied with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it
+carefully where he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon,
+90°; at 4 P. M., 95°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 60°. The mean height
+above the sea of the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet.
+
+27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,
+which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks after
+a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the
+vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought
+by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more
+decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses
+against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the
+plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew
+abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of
+the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the
+immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an
+infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes
+happened, other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me
+to a distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great
+novelty to us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long
+before we crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang
+fruit (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed
+that we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as
+the quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat.
+28° 55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 90°; at 4 P. M., 89;
+at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+28TH MARCH.--At 2 A. M., loud thunder was heard in the south-west, where
+a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops of rain
+fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from S. W.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56°. We proceeded, travelling chiefly amongst
+very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the westward of
+my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when on the
+other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its banks
+after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to place
+the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance, managed
+to prevent him from running away. He spoke only "Jerwoolleroy," a dialect
+which my native did not understand at all well. He told us, however, that
+this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to the Balonne. Upon the
+whole we gathered from him that neither that river nor the Bokhara was
+far from us. I endeavoured to convince him, by Youranigh's assurances,
+and our own civility to him, that we meant no harm to any natives, and
+were only passing through the country. He did not seem afraid, although
+he had never, until then, seen white men. We encamped near him. The river
+channel was very narrow, and contained but little water here-abouts. I
+understood from the native (through Youranigh) that the river here spread
+into various channels, and that "BARRO" was the name of a river beyond
+the Culg, which falls into it from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the
+lagoon on which we encamped after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near
+this camp we found a PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a
+SESBANIA near S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM
+AURICOMUM, formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 78°; at 4 P. M., 82°; at 9, 61°;--
+with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr. Kennedy
+forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a more
+direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied by one of
+the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He returned in
+about four hours, having found the river coming from the northward, and
+he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°;
+at 4 P. M., 81°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at sunrise
+only 42°. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on over fine
+grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At length,
+about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there was
+one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only
+see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running
+north. We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran,
+after a journey of about eight miles.
+
+We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species of
+eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and other
+parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 P.
+M., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Mean height of the camps of the
+27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet.
+
+31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed across
+the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary to
+see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not
+of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,
+branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main
+channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it
+again. Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every
+respect the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by
+observing the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of
+the current. We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with
+some lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I
+wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the
+ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where was
+the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were heard
+immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh and then to
+me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other was a lad
+of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne (BALONGO) as
+quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was quite evident
+from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper native name,
+but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an article they very
+often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in speaking of the
+Barwan, they say "Barwàngo." I had nearly completed the usual short
+journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was unwilling to lose
+the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on under their
+guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for the camp.
+This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them Tooningora, nearly
+on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with ducks. We had
+passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native friends, and over
+a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from scrub. It was
+evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I continued to
+follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the party to encamp,
+in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and the river Balonne.
+After going forward thus about four miles, we saw five gins running off
+at a great distance across some open plains, apparently near the river.
+The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I requested him to assure
+them that the white men would do no harm, and to tell them not to run
+away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared to carry unseemly loads
+across their backs, dangling under large opossum-skin cloaks, and it was
+evident that these were mummied bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but
+had not before seen it. I had then but a distant view of these females,
+as they resumed their flight, and continued it until they reached woods
+bounding the plain on the westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great
+Balonne river ran parallel to our march westward, and there also,
+according to my guides, was "Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and
+which spot I most anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials.
+Still my guides led westward towards the woods, and as we approached
+them, the shout or scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan,
+follower of my camp, first drew my attention to a black phalanx within
+the forest, of natives presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my
+interpreter halted and remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on
+his reaching that body, the sound of gruff voices that arose from it
+strongly reminded me of Milton's description of Satan's army:
+
+"Their rising all at once was as the sound Of thunder heard remote."
+
+Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by the
+other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those fellows
+were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our footsteps to
+the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo. Our guide soon
+overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange natives, who, all
+curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they brought with them a lad
+named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and had visited many of our
+cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to Youranigh, who but very
+imperfectly understood the language of the rest. They seemed upon the
+whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food consisted of the fish of
+the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon, CUCUMIS PUBESCENS,
+which grew in such abundance, that the whole country seemed strewed with
+the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives eat great quantities, and
+were very fond. It is about the size of a plum only, and in the journal
+of my first interior journey (in 1831), is mentioned as a cucumber we
+were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude of camp, 28° 38' 47" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb,
+57°.
+
+1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 A. M.,
+still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne. On
+our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy hollows
+could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in due
+form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party to
+halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on the
+right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other
+women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared, formed a
+circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to me. I
+desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way across the
+Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb them, etc.
+When all was said that could be said, and I was about to return, one of
+the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he must have learnt
+at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I returned the
+compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave. Soon after, we
+arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river as I have
+seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a slight
+current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less elevated
+above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel surpassed
+that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.
+
+We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was
+"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the
+natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,
+having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the
+first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had
+gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where
+he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered
+his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's
+conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to
+go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe,
+to other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without
+claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at
+such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us
+strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts
+of civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather
+rare. He had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the
+danger of sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our
+introduction by him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the
+bullock-drivers, found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut
+the banks, and fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches,
+and earth, for the better passage of the drays; a work they completed
+before night. I rode about five miles beyond the river to the north-west,
+and met, first with a very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level
+with the plains, and apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this,
+a river or chain of ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained
+was called the Càwan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The
+country was rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees,
+and the plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the
+Balonne, 28° 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 75°; at 4
+P.M., 79°; at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height of the bed of the
+Balonne above the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three
+observations.
+
+2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning in
+good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little bridge
+we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place seemed to me
+so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find some of
+the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the natives on
+this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks made by white
+men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank of the river, and
+was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns," the other with
+"Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was really at or near
+the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell had crossed, and
+found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles north-west, I
+determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that river, taking my
+track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad lagoon.
+
+On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with hoop
+nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He returned
+accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin, who had
+been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his nets,
+and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct us to
+the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a
+detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a word
+of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to overcome
+the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives, and their
+shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become our guide.
+He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles from the
+Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service and true
+civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron tomahawk, and
+I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for him to keep. He
+then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five miles off. This
+river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed than, the one we
+had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a principal
+river, and really looked more important than the Barwan, except that its
+waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees overhang the banks,
+and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I should say that these
+and much sand were the chief characteristics of the Culgoa. There were no
+recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed that they did not much
+frequent that part of the river. The grass along the banks was very
+luxuriant. Latitude 28° 31' 19" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 39°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°. The height of
+this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet above the bed of
+the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations.
+
+3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the
+banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our
+heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,
+however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 35°; at noon, 80°.; at 4 P.M., 77°; at 9, 49°;
+and with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the Culgoa
+upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending along the
+right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was favourable to
+our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in exploring that
+river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we had crossed
+the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the south, to this
+river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and Fort Bourke.
+That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable, had the rains
+set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over the dry, firm
+ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the left bank of
+the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season, indeed more
+conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had fallen at this
+time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern interior;
+but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for some
+degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the Commissioner of
+the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we should arrive at a
+better watered country.
+
+Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which grew
+luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us of the
+banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact counterpart,
+only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa was more
+easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles northward,
+I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found the river.
+We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch biting into
+the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached the Balonne Major,
+or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from the Minor Balonne,
+both of which we had already crossed, and which ran thus, as from our
+camp the lines of trees along each of the minor channels were distinctly
+visible.
+
+The character of these rivers had been described to me by Commissioner
+Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the drays came in,
+and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind, having been suddenly
+attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged in the survey of our
+route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had somewhat abated, but
+still this complaint, which we had attributed to it, had lately affected
+many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr. Kennedy. Latitude, 28°
+27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 88°; at
+9, 53°; with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of
+the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an
+angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after
+passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded by
+a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and
+partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I
+found this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous
+course, impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got
+through it, only after contending with these impediments for three miles.
+The country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river,
+and I turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward
+two miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any
+river; but, on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was
+declining, and I turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction
+reached an extensive open forest, beyond which I saw at length the river
+line of trees. I continued to ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw
+our cattle grazing, and the tents, without having regained first, as I
+wished, my outward track. On the bank of the Balonne we found an
+apparently new species of ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish
+flowers, and in the scrub I passed through, in my ride, I found a
+CASUARINA, indeterminable in the absence of flowers or fruit. It produces
+a gall as large as a hazel nut. Thermometer at sunrise, 37°; at noon,
+90°; at 4 P.M., 94°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not proceed,
+as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep our
+account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much galled,
+and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not without
+some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching a point
+whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave the
+cattle to refresh in a depôt on this fine river, which afforded an
+excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown
+regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously
+wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or
+Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part of
+the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the
+eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the
+Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of
+reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to
+the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I
+therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add
+in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,
+whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of
+encampment described.
+
+In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a
+broadleaved, white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,
+which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted
+species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New
+World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on EXOCARPUS
+APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and Frazer on
+Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at
+noon, 95°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Height above
+the sea, 497 feet.
+
+[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,
+fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos
+superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]
+
+7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I was
+informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud on
+the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was
+impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from
+having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our
+journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.
+Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest
+land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,
+even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got
+involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of
+E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees
+of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at
+an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the slopes,
+we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent, presenting a
+body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one other river of
+Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.
+
+This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor Balonne,
+came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe were heard
+in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly, having left us
+suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily ordered him away. I
+had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at night on the former
+occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of mischief, and could
+not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We desired no further
+intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with us did not
+understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose through
+that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my journey
+fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of this
+camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even now. I
+had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here, at a
+time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still
+uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled
+globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 P. M. 97°; at 9, 69°;--
+with wet bulb 57°. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28° 23' 59" S.
+(Camp III.)
+
+8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the river
+woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch, at
+first containing much water, and coming from the north, was on our right
+for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks of three
+horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if proceeding
+first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the river became
+dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw about a mile to
+the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of water on a
+level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of emerald
+green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a longer
+journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite water in
+its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy margin we saw
+still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to drink. The
+scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain. The ACACIA
+PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, and others,
+gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance of water about, all hands
+considered this a very fine country. At sunset, thunder-clouds gathered
+in the S. W., and at about 7 P. M. the storm reached our camp,
+accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the S. E. The lightning
+was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily. By 8 P. M. it was
+over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of Regulus, by which
+the latitude was found to be 28° 17' 8" S. (No. IV.) Thermometer at
+sunrise, 61°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P. M. 94°; at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb
+63°.
+
+9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum, obliged me
+to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had already got
+further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river spread into a
+broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers having taken no
+notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where the carts had
+been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry the loads to firm
+ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this swamp for many miles,
+I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed the burning fires of
+natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on trees about. At
+length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the main river, where
+it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and sweeping round
+majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after a long journey.
+The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large fishes in it;
+ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black swans. This
+surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that such an
+enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else in New South
+Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The Anthistiria grew
+abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude, 28° 13' 34" S. and
+marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P. M., 97°; at
+9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,
+fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the
+river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris
+scrubs were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open
+and firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of
+large Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and
+gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a
+soft red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by
+far the best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft
+red sand being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as
+mud. At length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious
+lagoon, extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift
+marks, that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it
+as it trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about
+that part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods.
+That lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water
+could never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon
+dried up, which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant
+in the bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA
+MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 99°; at 4 P. M.,
+97° at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,
+stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi
+angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-
+pubescentitomentosis, bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis
+setaceis, legumine sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but
+flowers much smaller, in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects
+with the short character of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is
+not articulated on the footstalk, and the stipules exist.]
+
+11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right
+hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully
+falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,
+at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.
+This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered
+with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being
+near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true
+aboriginal name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more
+readily adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate
+amongst rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way
+about to my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay
+across my intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon
+the banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,
+having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very
+uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had
+once been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the
+swamp, the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the
+opposite direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently
+dry. On crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware
+that it is usually at acute angles in a river's course that such
+overflowings break out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn
+eastward, and even to the southward of east before I could find the river
+again. At length we came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand,
+where the waters took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents.
+I was now very desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to
+rest and refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This
+place did not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well
+tasted, and the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the
+natives, or by accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of
+the Balonne, and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO
+PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader
+leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of
+ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 102°; at 4
+P. M., 104°; at 9, 69°; with wet bulb, 62°. Average height above the sea,
+of camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.
+
+[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse
+sinuatoserratis integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque
+glaberrimis.]
+
+12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour, and
+soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water and came
+from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that had for
+some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes that this
+river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it
+maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of
+water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the
+course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of
+the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,
+consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have
+been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the
+same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite
+bank, and at once selected the spot for a dépôt camp, which we
+established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down
+the river. It was, in fact, a tête-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage
+which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in
+latitude 28° 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4
+P. M., 101°; at 9, 74°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with
+a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the
+river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my
+hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the
+stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of
+all in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a
+pair of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+47°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 67°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in the
+direction of 331½°, my intended route, and he returned about 10 P. M.,
+having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right when
+about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the whole,
+I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to travel
+north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course of
+this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher
+ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P. M., 103°; at
+9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting
+water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of
+infantry than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded
+chiefly with water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were
+thus prepared to pass several nights without requiring other water than
+that we carried with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the
+scrubs, and reach, and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great
+basin. Our first day's progress, being rather experimental, did not
+extend above ten miles. I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse,
+and exchange him for a better, as our load of water was heavy. The day
+was very sultry. Thermometer 105° Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed
+over ground more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 64°; at 4 P. M., 105°; at 9, 71°;--with wet
+bulb, 67°.
+
+17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being my
+own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got
+forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they
+could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none
+was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,
+and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;
+and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar
+indication of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the
+white-barked gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of
+river trees, we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After
+completing about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses,
+where there was a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from
+our stock. The mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at
+all higher than our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore,
+not improbable that we might meet with some other channel or branch of
+that prolific river. After resting two hours we continued, passing
+through woods partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub.
+Towards the end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good
+grass, and having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of
+the character of the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very
+large kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks
+numerous. We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a
+grassy spot surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA
+of Banks, and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable
+whiteness appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which,
+on very close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On
+the plains the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose
+from its very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 71°; at 9 P. M, 68°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to
+specimens of this brought to England:--
+
+"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell (or
+rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does not allow me
+to say much about the insect by which they are formed. It is an extremely
+beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I have yet seen, and is, I
+have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It is of a very peculiar form,
+resembling a very delicate, broad, and flattened valve of a bi-valve
+shell, such as the genus Iridina, the part where the hinge is being a
+little produced and raised, and forming the cover of the coccus which
+secretes the beautiful material just in the same unexplained way as the
+scale insects form the slender attenuated scales beneath which they are
+born. I could not discover any insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas
+Mitchell's production in a state sufficient to determine what it really
+is, as I only found one or two exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up
+insects. It is extremely brittle, and looks more like dried, white,
+frothed sugar than any thing else."]
+
+18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N. N. E.
+direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed that
+water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the other
+horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I found
+some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and which
+evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were then dry.
+Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall of rain
+water would remain there some time. On riding two miles beyond, in the
+same direction, I found open forest land only. The country was well
+covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We again proceeded
+north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was, however, only soft
+red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses drawing the
+watercart.
+
+On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different kind of
+country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or still more
+loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance, and the
+trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly. Instead of
+grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I
+afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRÀ), and one small, shrubby, brown
+bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike
+leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the
+firstmentioned plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in
+passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some
+birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They
+descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and
+seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp one
+fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my
+whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as
+those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and
+dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,
+especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the
+Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the
+DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the
+sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them
+elsewhere. The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much
+distressed. I continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a
+scrub in a clay hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country
+with more of the soft red sand. The people with the cart could not
+overtake me, and I returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I
+determined to encamp at some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our
+line, in latitude, 27° 43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the
+barometer, we had not ascended higher than our depôt camp on the river,
+at a distance of nearly forty miles from it. I had just quitted my
+horse's back, and had resolved to return, when two horsemen were seen
+approaching along our track. They were two of our party come from the
+depôt to bring me a despatch, which had been forwarded by Commissioner
+Wright, communicating the news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port
+Essington, and enclosing the Gazette with his own account of his journey.
+Thus it became known to us that we could no longer hope to be the first
+to reach the shores of the Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+62°; at 4 P. M., 93°; at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode forward
+along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me, until the
+cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite exhausted by the
+heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 86°; at
+9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having been
+ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depôt, I sent our tired
+animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited quantity
+of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh horses about
+half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of another light
+cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage towards the head
+of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 95; at 4 P. M.,
+93°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 A. M. The morning was cloudy, for
+the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three or four
+days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have explored
+by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great river,
+the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I had
+just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended, had it
+been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground, whatever
+it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 65°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 77°; at 9, 60°;
+--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the
+temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial
+column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated party
+engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of our
+late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the colony
+lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.
+direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as
+he went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,
+during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a new
+creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr. Bentham has
+named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P.
+M., 77°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 56°. Mean elevation of this camp
+above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623 feet.
+
+[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis
+pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis
+elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus
+approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine
+molliter villoso.]
+
+[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis
+subangulatis, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late
+obovatis summisve linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis
+v. oblique mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis
+uninervibus tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris
+solitariis subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus
+truncatis, legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and
+possibly a mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably
+broader, and the inflorescence different.]
+
+
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY--LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS AND
+DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--DISCOVER A RIVER
+JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE THE
+BALONNE UPWARDS.--FINE RIVER SCENERY.--VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO THE
+EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.--TRIBUTARY FROM THE NORTH-WEST--
+AND RICH PLAINS.--TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.--EXCELLENT COUNTRY FOR
+GRAZING PURPOSES.--MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE NORTHWARD.--NATIVES
+AT OUR CAMP.--ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.--MOUNT INVITING.--ASCEND MOUNT RED
+CAP.--RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.--
+THE BOTTLE TREE.--ASCEND MOUNT BINDÀNGO.--DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER
+"AMBY."--DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF A CAMP.--RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-
+WEST.--ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.--A GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND
+FOR THE CARTS.--SMALL RIVER DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF
+WATER.--THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS ON OPEN FLATS.--DISCOVER THE RIVER
+MARAN.--SELECT A POSITION FOR A DEPÔT.--RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE
+NORTHWARD.--RIDE INTO THE WESTERN INTERIOR.--ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.--
+EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--WATER NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.--RETURN TO THE
+CAMP.--ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE EASTWARD.--VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS
+OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.--CAMP VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY
+ABSENCE.--ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.--HIS
+ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."--VARIOUS
+PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--DEPÔT CAMP
+ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.
+
+23RD APRIL.--Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight men,
+two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three light carts
+with provisions for ten weeks--determined, if possible, to penetrate
+northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the division of
+the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view, to trace
+upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to the north-
+westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west, and thus
+acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the watershed
+towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to follow my track
+with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out on Monday, the
+4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks' rest.
+
+The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or
+hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each side.
+I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river.
+Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub;
+but came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque.
+Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm
+clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the
+river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27° 56' 12"
+S. There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long
+islands of sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The
+bed, in most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous
+conglomerate, or clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass
+was excellent and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick
+scrub crowned these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my
+examining the other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the
+ENOCARPUS SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the
+beautiful parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of
+Eucalyptus. Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at 9 P. M., 47°;--with wet
+bulb, 41°. [* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman numerals
+those afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track with the
+main body.]
+
+24TH APRIL.--Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction was
+N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild and very
+fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of water, in
+wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that sometimes
+moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines were wild,
+the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still inclined
+as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted finely with
+erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with perpendicular
+rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown, contrasted
+most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey driftwood, blue
+water, and verdure by its margin; all these again--grass, verdure,
+driftwood, and water--were so opposed to the dark hues of the Casuarinae,
+Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a Gains-borough, might
+there have found an inexhaustible stock of subjects for their pencil. It
+was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.
+
+"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air, And scarce a human image
+plac'd he there."
+
+May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we may
+also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their
+sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be
+brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine
+perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy
+margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by scrub. At
+length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see along
+each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up that
+nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of
+natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was
+grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain."
+This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but
+finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at
+length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I
+could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river;
+marks of high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other.
+It might, and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but
+this seemed too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed
+it, to look for the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain
+bounded by trees that looked like those along the river. No time could be
+spared for further reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for
+the nearest part. My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in
+following the various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen
+miles beyond the point where I met with this river, that I reached the
+bank of the other, at a spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had
+quitted it. This was only accomplished at forty minutes after 4 P. M.,
+when we had travelled twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was
+likely, if followed by Mr. Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay
+and inconvenience, I resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the
+subject, explaining how he could most readily fall into my track by
+crossing the other channel, quitting first the other track, at a spot to
+be marked by Graham, who took the letter. Nevertheless, it had been
+imperative on me to follow it up as I had done; because, whether as a
+separate tributary or an ana-branch only, the right bank was likely to
+suit us best, provided only that water could have been found in its bed.
+Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of Linnaeus, with its spikes
+of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM.
+Lat. 27° 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9 P. M., 59°;--with
+wet bulb, 56°.
+
+25TH APRIL.--
+
+"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers, And heavily in clouds brings
+on the day."
+
+A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a
+contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy, and
+Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of the
+other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my
+track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in
+an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and
+buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks on
+trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to
+examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the
+day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and,
+in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible
+difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+65°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P. M., 66°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 63°. Mean
+height above the sea, 586 feet.
+
+26TH APRIL.--Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depôt camp at 1 P.
+M. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind from the
+west arose about 3 P. M. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 78°; at 4
+P. M., 78°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+27TH APRIL.--The party set off early. We found that a river from the
+north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from
+the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I
+determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and
+water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of the
+first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after
+following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode
+northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten
+minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I
+could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27° 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+37°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P. M., 72°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+28TH APRIL.--Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river bed
+like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here broke
+through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S. W.,
+it seemed probable that the general course from above might be parallel
+to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches large,
+full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant
+grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered with
+the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a delicate
+grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also here
+observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W., and
+whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel
+northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again,
+cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its
+course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have
+rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during
+the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had
+been in England during the same month. Latitude 27° 32' 37" S. The
+direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long
+sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered
+available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface of
+the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river,
+attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor
+features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they
+had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at
+4 P. M., 69°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+29TH APRIL.--The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into
+gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent me
+from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or
+pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy
+margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all
+seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I
+was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress
+along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I
+could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in
+a gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge
+like that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday,
+doubtless the product of the late rain, and probably from these clay
+gullies. After a circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow
+over-looking much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies,
+but could easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we
+encamped as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27°
+28' 27". One of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree,
+discovered vast plains in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river
+line pursuing a northerly course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung
+over what he supposed to be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4
+P. M., 63°; at 9, 47°; with wet bulb, 44°.
+
+30TH APRIL.--Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came upon
+open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the rugged
+gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north, with
+sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all
+fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the
+river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a
+high scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large
+lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see.
+It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native
+huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27° 20'
+S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our
+youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 P. M.,
+65°; at 9, 43°.
+
+1ST MAY.--On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the river,
+we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground broken
+into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin of
+this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage
+elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it,
+we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and
+could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards
+northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains,
+bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw
+still the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the
+cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us
+improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward,
+with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W.
+From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains
+extending before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low
+rise to the N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each
+containing deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the
+river; we encamped near it, in latitude 27° 15' 4" S. As we approached
+this spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then running off--
+Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of his own. I
+endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they made off,
+setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of these parts
+might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they would at length
+come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at 4 P. M., 67°; at 9, P. M.,
+48°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+2D MAY.--There was a decided difference between the river we were now
+upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by
+which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small
+tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the
+westward, while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst
+plains, reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was
+the principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather
+difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses
+lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the
+water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable
+breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the woods
+back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's bed,
+but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we could
+have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river, passing close
+to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next change of the
+river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the receding bergs
+guided me, even when only seen at a considerable distance, in shaping my
+course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I travelled far along a
+grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing water like chrystal,
+and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western shore consisted of
+shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated on its eastern
+extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N. W., we at
+length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous
+channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more
+like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus
+waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of
+the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just
+beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were
+erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open
+iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather
+peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also
+undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we
+were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77°, also a hill to
+the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333°), he
+saw also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at 4 P. M., 62°;
+at 9 P. M 57°; mean height above the sea, 694 feet.
+
+3RD MAY.--Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and we
+perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the morning.
+Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party bearing a green
+branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to our tents.
+One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite absorbed in
+observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently overcome all
+their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and without any
+kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With steady fixed
+looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances, what passed
+in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages. On the
+contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look of good
+sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence, could we
+but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor did they show
+any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the smallest of which
+might have been of use to them. There must be an original vein of mind in
+these aboriginal men of the land. O that philosophy or philanthropy could
+but find it out and work it! Yuranigh plied them with all my questions,
+but to little purpose; for although he could understand their language,
+he complained that they did not answer him in it, but repeated, like
+parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same manner, they followed me
+with a very exact repetition of English words. He, however, gathered from
+them that the lake was called "Turànimga," this river "Cogoon," a hill to
+the eastward "Toolumbà," etc. They had never before seen white men, and
+behaved as properly as it was possible for men in their situation to do.
+At length we set out on our journey, and in mounting my horse, which
+seemed very much to astonish them, I made signs that we were going to the
+mountains.
+
+Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The deep
+ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was small, in
+comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed to say we
+had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers." Malga
+scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of these
+forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that impervious
+sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making straighter
+cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was, however, now
+rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a tributary to
+the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us, pursued a
+tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29° and 27°, coming
+round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last three days we
+had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of north-west; in
+which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect that we should
+soon find mountains.
+
+As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded, with
+Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw through
+the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I
+perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the
+south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the
+northeast, like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight
+to me then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west,
+the object of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had
+before seen these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still
+undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this
+hill Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from
+its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was
+felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat.
+27° 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9 P. M.,
+45°;--with wet bulb, 43°.
+
+4TH MAY.--An Australian morning is always charming,--amid these scenes of
+primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or GYMNORHINA, the
+organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller bird, whose notes,
+resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the only sounds that
+met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such sounds in other
+climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning in this. "The
+rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the perfume of the
+shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and the tints and
+tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The light red tints
+of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the white stems of
+the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early morning, still
+slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in the most
+pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally fine, from
+the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate willow-
+like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees, the
+mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there is
+a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most
+brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter
+morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are
+equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the
+savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from
+thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence.
+
+Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had seen
+whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found myself
+on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest, so that
+I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges clothed with
+dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and descended towards a
+fine open country, on which pigeons were numerous, and traces of natives.
+It was also sloping to the northward, and I had no doubt that we had
+passed into a valley which I had observed yesterday from Mount First
+View, and had supposed it contained a larger river. In the open ground, I
+found a small rocky knoll which I named Mount Minute. From its summit, I
+recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing 128° 30'. We next passed through
+some scrub, and came to a hollow full of Acacia pendula. Following this
+down we arrived at a chain of ponds, and these led to an open grassy
+valley, in which we found our old friend, the river, still pursuing,
+steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along the bank, for a mile or
+two, we found that these now consisted of fine open forest flats; and at
+length encamped on the margin, after a journey of about twelve miles.
+Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite bank, first standing in mute
+astonishment, then running away. I held up a green bough, but they seemed
+very wild; and, although occasionally seen during the afternoon, none of
+them would approach us. We found on the banks of this river, a purple-
+flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*] Lat. 26° 57' 39" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 P. M., 70°; at 9, 37°;--with wet bulb,
+34°.
+
+[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis
+alternis oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo
+longioribus, floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.]
+
+5TH MAY.--The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession,
+colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19° E., yet
+the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open air,
+seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere, extreme
+cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So, also, in the
+opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so accustomed to a
+higher temperature than 100° F., that any degree under that felt
+refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the little river was
+still very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks at the westerly
+bends; from which side it was also joined by a small tributary, with
+ponds and hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of the POLYGONUM
+ACRE. Still, however, the main channel could be distinguished from these,
+and the open forest flats along its banks became more and more extensive
+and open as we ascended this channel,--leading so directly where we
+wished to go.
+
+Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub,
+but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with
+callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through.
+I rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from
+Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be
+removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond,
+there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of
+felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular
+polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and
+W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26° 54' 16" S. It was only
+during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any
+indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than
+that of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the
+difference was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or
+seven millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the
+sea being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 P. M., 67°.
+
+6TH MAY.--The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the slopes less
+abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a mixture of sand, at
+a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it occupied a section of
+considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards between bank and bank.
+On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest land, Youranigh drew my
+attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of trees, which he showed me
+had been deposited there by floods. As they were of a growth and size
+quite disproportioned to other trees there, I was convinced that they
+were the debris of floods; and, consequently, that a vast body of water
+sometimes came down this channel. This native was taciturn and observant
+of such natural circumstances, to a degree that made his opinion of value
+in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which of two channels, that
+might come both in our way, might be the main one; thus my last resource,
+when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el parecer," as they say in Spain,
+of this aboriginal, and he was seldom wrong. At length, the cheering
+expanse of an open country appeared before us, and a finely shaped hill,
+half-covered only, with bushes. On reaching an elevated clear part, I saw
+extensive downs before me. The river turned amongst woods to the
+eastward, and I continued on our route to the north, sure of meeting with
+it again, as some fine forest ridges hemmed in the valley to the
+eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned (which I named Mount
+Inviting), there was a curious red cone some miles to the westward,
+crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to plant my theodolite.
+After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of Acacia pendula
+which gradually changed to an open forest, within which I met with a
+chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26° 46' S. I immediately set out,
+with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red Cap, distant from our
+camp about six miles. This little red cone had a very singular
+appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark tinted scrub of
+flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of which the light
+and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy plain. I found the
+red rock to be the common one of the country, in a state of
+decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal, whose tracks
+had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling us to lead our
+horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an extensive view of
+the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood to the verge of
+the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of picturesque form,
+and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the direction whence we had
+come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more continuous ridges; and,
+towards the extremity of them, I could just recognise Mount First View,
+this being one of the distant cones I had seen from it. I took as many
+angles as the descending sun permitted, and then retraced our horses'
+tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at 9 P. M., 47°. Height
+above the sea, 747 feet.
+
+7TH MAY.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open
+forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula,
+in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward, now
+anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we
+found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds
+skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my
+ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge.
+From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little
+wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the
+centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good
+pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to
+follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from the
+west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open downs,
+and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in neither of
+which could we find any water, and had consequently to return to the last
+of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country towards
+the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26° 42' 27" S., thankful that we
+had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and to discover so
+fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 30°.
+
+8TH MAY.--This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21° in my tent,
+a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen indicated from
+my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which was not frozen,
+neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in splendour; pigeons
+cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods. The business of the
+day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine open country to the
+westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for a higher branch of
+the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region could not be
+deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen of the range
+to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E. in about two
+hours we came upon the identical river we had so long followed up. It was
+accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had its rounded bergs;
+reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left bank. Crossing it I
+rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs, in hopes to obtain
+a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found that to be
+impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an elevated
+north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it beheld the finest
+country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A champaign region, spotted
+with wood, stretching as far as human vision, or even the telescope,
+could reach. It was intersected by river lines from the north,
+distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass arose in the
+midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W. and N. E.
+direction, as to deserve the name of a range.
+
+A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S.
+E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that
+variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks
+of a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole
+country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton
+Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an
+elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend
+the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to near
+the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by
+rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear
+leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I
+was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater, although
+the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes there were
+different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me, seemed
+chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by no
+means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in
+Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around
+them. Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The
+trunk bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the
+diameter at the ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches
+above. These were small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole
+tree looked very odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that
+I was convinced this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A
+still more remarkable specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in
+the apex of a basaltic peak, in the kind of gap of the range through
+which we passed on the 15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying
+drawing.]
+
+These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like
+hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*]
+Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the
+rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly
+covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even
+after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau,
+so thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward
+towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down than
+that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the Cogoon, I
+passed between the two summits, and found a good open passage to the
+westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon,
+70°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 30°. Height above the sea 1043 feet.
+
+[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of
+Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with
+respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it
+more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These
+are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate,
+mucronate, smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and
+lined with a thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also
+closely covered with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold
+the seeds together firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the
+upper half of the seed, whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining,
+smooth, and marked with a brown nipple, the remains of the foramen.
+Within the primine lies the bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite
+loose, and seems as if it were independent of the primine. Eventually the
+end of the thin brittle primine breaks like an eggshell and the secundine
+falls out. The seeds themselves, remaining attached to each other and to
+the follicle, resemble six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half
+a dozen brown eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young
+have escaped through the point.
+
+Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir Henry T. De la Beche,
+as president of a Society which has greatly encouraged him in his
+Australian researches; and in honour of a science which has occasionally
+thrown some light on his dark and difficult path. It may be
+scientifically described as follows:--
+
+DELABECHEA.
+
+CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ...
+STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longè stipitati,
+intus stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili
+cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita,
+inter se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINÂ laxâ, tenui, fragili,
+apice foramine incrassato notatâ, SECUNDINÂ crustaceâ, demum liberâ
+chalazâ magnâ circulari notatâ. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria.
+
+DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS.
+
+ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM album, laxum,
+mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate) maximis faciem
+internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis medullaribus tenuibus
+equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata, integerrima, in
+petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia, subtus pallida et
+quasi vernice quâdam cinereâ obducta. INFLORESCENTIA axillaris,
+trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque
+tomentosus.
+
+The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is soft, and
+brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very large
+tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half across;
+they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When boiling water is
+poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly, resembling tragacanth,
+is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass; iodine stains it brown, but
+not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No doubt the nutritious quality
+of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is apparently of the same
+nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree of Sierra Leone
+(STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA).
+
+It is not a little remarkable that the barrel-like form of the trunk
+should be almost exactly paralleled by another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA
+VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It
+seems, however, that a tendency to a short lumpish mode of growth is
+common among the order, as is indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which
+is almost as broad as it is long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-
+Cottons of tropical America.--J. L.]
+
+9TH MAY.--The thermometer stood at 19° in my tent this morning, yet no
+ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that branch
+of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track for Mr.
+Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about two miles
+to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a trench cut
+across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a letter for
+Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour which might
+have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our track from the
+south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the direction of
+the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a due north
+line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for our river,
+as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and the woods
+quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The watercourse,
+soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and these at last
+were found to contain no water, when we had completed our day's journey.
+Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still distinguish my
+rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the general direction
+of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W. We were still much
+to the southward of the line so observed, apprehending, as I did think
+then, that some tempting plains might take us too far along some western
+tributary. Riding in search of water, I perceived a column of smoke to
+the northward; and, taking the party in that direction, we found, in the
+first valley we fell in with, a chain of ponds, and in one of these water
+enough for our use, whereupon I gladly encamped. This day we discovered a
+new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark in small angular pieces.[*] Latitude,
+26° 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4 P. M., 74°; at sunset, 63°. Height above
+the sea, 1299 feet.
+
+[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis
+breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis
+reticulatovenosis, nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris
+axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.]
+
+10TH MAY.--Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land. The
+sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the open
+country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the scenery,
+and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a level
+woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country from
+any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is every
+thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water, when in
+the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went forward this
+morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of our friendly
+river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some of its highest
+sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain before us,
+over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a dry bushy
+hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have encamped, I
+perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of it, which
+was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more readily I
+got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down. This,
+opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The
+welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the water-
+course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains, gracefully
+fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I crossed a bare
+grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw luxuriant white
+trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same colour (PSITTACUS
+GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water, beside which we
+encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a beautiful Loranthus,
+which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly discovered by the
+indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now described by Sir William
+Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 38°;--
+with wet bulb, 34°.
+
+[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis
+oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis
+tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis
+axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis
+nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis
+linearibus.--Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were
+subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.]
+
+11TH MAY.--I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with axes, and
+one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with thick scrub
+interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way almost any where.
+I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on throwing down a few
+of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view over the country to the
+northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain. Beyond these, valleys,
+also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one side to the S. E., on
+another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a rather elevated
+tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain with a range just
+dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley descending towards the N.
+W., seemed to me to be the head of a river likely to pass through a
+remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the view did not extend. To
+the westward a woody, and rather level country appeared, from which I
+thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs between them, descending
+towards the N. W. river.
+
+Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my
+theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise,
+that the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I
+stood, and that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still,
+the only greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due
+north. Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass
+through? Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern
+and southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident
+from columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral
+ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward. That
+was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found an
+interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I
+resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the
+remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them much
+resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and
+returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found
+eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my
+absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a tomahawk
+to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little could be
+understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his. We did,
+however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned from, was
+"Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyègo; and the
+ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped, "Tagàndo;" all very
+good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at once in my notes and
+map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre, and had a few feathers
+of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their foreheads and beards.
+These simple decorations gave them a splendid holiday appearance, as
+savages. The trio who had visited us some days before, were all
+thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and their white teeth,
+constantly visible, shone whiter than even the cockatoo's feathers on
+their brows and chins. Contrasted with our woollen-jacketted, straw-
+hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care, it seemed as if nature
+was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of the sons of art. Sun
+never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than these children of nature
+appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine powerful fellow, whose voice
+sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if his very whisper might be heard
+half a mile off. The old man remained by our fire all night; the others
+who, as I understood, were all his sons, had departed about 11 P. M.,
+having left their gins in the vicinity. Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at
+noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 59°; at 9, 35°.
+
+12TH MAY.--I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river
+flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount
+Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found
+the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a
+river, with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short
+way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from
+one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from
+which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This water
+was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to which
+I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to
+expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at
+noon, 81°; at 4 P. M., 59°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height above
+the sea, 1168 feet.
+
+13TH MAY.--I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party
+crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet
+above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy
+downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two knolls
+projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode to
+one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was the
+first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from
+their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyègo, which I had not leisure to examine then, also
+consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one
+hundred yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with
+trees wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely,
+CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next
+descended to a separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the
+north-west. Instead of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been
+doing, and finding them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main
+channel, we were now to follow one downwards, with the prospect of
+finding it to increase as we proceeded. The relief from the constant
+apprehension of not falling in with water was great, as each day's
+journey was likely to show additional tributaries to our new found river,
+and, of course, to augment the supply. The old native at Tagàndo, had
+pointed much to the north-west, frequently repeating the word "MARAN;"
+whether that was, or what was, the name of this river, remained to be
+ascertained. A sweet breeze from the N. W. met us as we descended the
+slopes, and thus it was that white men first passed in that direction,
+"AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA." Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon,
+75°; at 4 P. M., 64°; at 9, 43°. Height of camp above the sea, 1226 feet.
+
+14TH MAY.--The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I
+crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the
+country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the
+time I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap.
+We passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we
+had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before
+me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in
+that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass,
+and wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me,
+however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had
+thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been
+called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in
+advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went
+forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We
+found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which
+was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all
+to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to
+my native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the
+tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He
+handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to examine
+my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that convinced
+him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the river was
+called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then, for the
+first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that this
+might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu as
+civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I
+perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing
+more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild
+tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the
+tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a thought
+which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart upon our
+goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to desist from
+his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way, contrive to cheek
+the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a loud whisper
+of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was no music in
+this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous sandstone,
+whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the eastward. A
+gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which was steep
+towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone) afforded me a
+view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about it. I
+perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the country
+was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed marked out
+by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and watercourses
+fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still the
+country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills,
+clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and
+dells between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot
+of the finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of
+route, to the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we
+wanted water, but on following a little channel about a mile downwards,
+we found in it a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further
+down this channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of
+my newly discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I
+was almost convinced that it would have brought me into this very
+country, had I come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26° 17' 8" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 35°; at 4 P. M., 80°; at 7 P. M., 71°; at 9,
+48°. Height above the sea, 1150 feet.
+
+15TH MAY.--My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning, to
+natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp. Some
+time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped, with
+head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside my
+after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big
+savage of yesterday.
+
+Hamlet might here have exclaimed--
+
+"What a piece of work is man! ... ..... how infinite in faculties! In
+form and action how like a QUADRUPED! In apprehension, how like a DEVIL!"
+
+There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be
+the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This
+savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were
+concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had
+been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably,
+drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in
+the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet
+whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted,
+expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud
+JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp.
+My horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different
+direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know
+either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity
+of frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other
+way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree,
+with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and Yuranigh,
+both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill, whence I found
+that a great number had just retired, leaving even their opossums still
+roasting on the fire;--they having, in a very brief interval, by rapid
+strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard their shouts
+in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate retreat--
+aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing behind
+some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with the
+business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a
+low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of black
+ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so that it
+might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it on the
+south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to give
+birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we were
+encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the Bottle tree,
+represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this range, and
+in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the country
+westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a
+watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and dry
+ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the
+commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this
+downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew
+our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a
+pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and
+the ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently
+in the same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to
+bring forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the
+country beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and
+the country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+38°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P. M., 82°; at 9, 43°.
+
+[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature
+behind a tree.]
+
+16TH MAY.--We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the
+carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively
+on the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque,
+while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more
+importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along the
+creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find water
+at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26° 15' 24"
+S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 49°. Height above
+the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;--of this camp, 1256 feet.
+
+17TH MAY.--Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I could
+move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone
+ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it
+would), to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping
+valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were
+clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and
+found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height
+afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to be
+chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon,
+and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the
+course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat.
+I descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could
+find no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine
+grassy flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising
+ground, on the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the
+inhabitants of the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek
+turning towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious
+open flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our
+further progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I
+perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards
+it, observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching
+a large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below
+these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the
+blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond
+that could not have lasted long,--here I saw at once secure, a firm
+footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it
+went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully
+as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N.
+to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far
+on our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with
+other streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course
+downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just deserted,
+the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left
+suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp
+under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its
+final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research. I
+returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a
+permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 78°; at
+4 P. M. 75°; at 9, 49°.
+
+18TH MAY.--Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to trace,
+with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays
+coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the
+country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well
+covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to
+the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap
+behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we had
+descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we had
+just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I
+sought a good position for a depôt camp on the newly-discovered river,
+and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W.,
+overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and
+having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and
+firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke
+and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as
+much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being
+removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the kangaroos
+come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this camp, 26°
+12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at 4 P. M., 78°; at 9, 57°.
+
+19TH MAY.--I could now venture to halt a day without any apprehensions
+about leaving sufficient water for the party who were following us; and I
+had recently obtained many angles I wished to put together, in order to
+learn the character of the country, which required much study. That I
+should have overlooked an extensive country, without perceiving any
+indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at my feet, seemed
+a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of its ultimate
+course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the chief
+elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount Red
+Cap, Bindango, and Bindyègo, to the high ranges nearer the coast. That
+the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby), and
+flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of basaltic
+rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango and the
+northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side, and that
+the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered. Where was
+the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters were full of
+fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at
+noon, 73°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 65°.
+
+20TH MAY.--The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded us
+some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration
+during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a sudden
+change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during the
+journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48°. F. Yuranigh contrived to
+catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of the rivers
+in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river could belong
+to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 48°;
+at 4 P. M., 45°; at 9, 45°.
+
+21ST MAY.--The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me to
+ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west,
+in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the
+river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests,
+and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too
+loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three
+channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in
+ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass
+(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees
+being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind,
+but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly
+on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as
+they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally
+strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions,
+such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this
+summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the
+highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80
+miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line
+of smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and others
+to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon
+presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded
+from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level
+horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap
+was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye
+ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending
+eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote distance;
+in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives. I
+returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had
+observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore,
+still look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that,
+for the heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the
+river, resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west
+of it. They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an
+extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken
+into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at
+noon, 54°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 30°.
+
+22D MAY.--This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20°; and in
+the open air, at 12°. The river was frozen, and the grass was white with
+hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before us, I
+resolved to form a depôt with our drays and heavy equipment here, and to
+await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The spot
+was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr. Kennedy
+with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively the
+character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather apprehensive
+that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this point; and I
+was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for continuing
+the journey, without dragging them any further through the heavy sand. It
+was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be obliged to
+remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a journey, when
+horses and light carts might have enabled me to have pursued it to a
+conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54°; at 4 P. M.,
+55°; at 9, 27°.
+
+23D MAY.--The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and to
+receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of
+ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great
+height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further
+course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp; and, in
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With this
+view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it
+from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I
+ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without
+difficulty, or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the
+western side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent
+gradual, through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the
+Yarra gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the
+ACACIA CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA
+MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark, and
+stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh; who
+remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney. But
+deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the
+direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length,
+we approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but
+quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I
+turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it
+pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going
+far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this
+interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the
+furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward,
+extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river
+would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance
+from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of
+their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I
+passed this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing
+our guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that
+they had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the
+river bank. These people had no clothing,--the mercury stood at 19° and
+20° F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely enough
+to have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns. Yet, under
+such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to them,
+these human beings were so contented and happy, that the overflowings of
+their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human nature in a wild
+state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on the contrary, I
+was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that, much as I wished
+to learn the original name of this interior river, and something about
+its course, I forbade any of the party from taking any notice of these,
+its original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the natives, had also
+taught me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the camel. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 52°; at 4 P. M., 56°; at 9, 32°.
+
+24TH MAY.--I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about two
+miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already
+mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great
+distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last
+evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly waving
+my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and several
+others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a similar
+manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man on
+horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the summit, grew
+the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood, that I was
+obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree on the
+summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of platform on
+the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there appeared some
+open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its apparent
+course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P. M., 67°; and
+at 9, 30°.
+
+25TH MAY.--Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if
+possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some knowledge of
+the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my work was a
+conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the projecting
+extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range), and that its
+basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the sandstone cliffs on
+this side. But the course downwards still remained a question, which
+diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper course to come
+from where it was my wish to go. I resolved, nevertheless, while thus
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my ride of the 23RD MAY, and
+ascertain whether it could turn westward under the southern cliffs, the
+only direction in which it was likely to be available to us, downwards,
+at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M. 68°;
+and at 9, 38°.
+
+26TH MAY.--Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I retraced my
+former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the dry river bed,
+where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone gullies, where
+one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to pursue; and
+this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open forest of
+iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of the same
+felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan basin; the
+soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard
+leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and,
+further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue
+distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually
+accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search
+of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on
+a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA
+PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best
+kinds of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good
+pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile
+beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as we
+could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to find
+the river, and the rocky country over which we had come. Westward, the
+downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated conical hills,--
+the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing westward like a
+limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that barrier the
+river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the river, I
+found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five miles
+further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs, but I
+saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally amid the
+long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of native
+inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we hastened
+back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which happened to
+be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 72°; at 4 P.M.,
+71°; at 9, 44°.
+
+27TH MAY.--We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I had
+seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak appeared
+to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W., and in that
+expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately recognised two of
+my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo miles
+respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous range on
+the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined to be
+only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only
+westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a
+long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as
+accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in
+sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and
+although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at
+the far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more
+probable, from the general slope of the country, that it was only another
+tributary coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who
+alone stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate
+of the rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not
+to be found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me
+know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it
+been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then that
+it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked
+much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the
+twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land
+around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of
+the hills--half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and
+vales--or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least there
+seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer of
+nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its
+sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from
+that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in
+that direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill
+overlooking that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable
+geological friend. We reached the dépot camp in the evening, and found
+all well, only that a very tall and powerful native had been
+reconnoitring our position during the day, from various trees commanding
+a view of it; probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always
+happened to be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party
+was absent, as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon,
+79°; at 4 P.M., 68°; at 9, 59°; with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+[* Probably the Nive. See INFRA.]
+
+28TH AND 29TH MAY.--My ride westward had enabled me to intersect more
+points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate
+country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying
+down points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I
+gain a satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however,
+I was convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depôt
+camp, was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey.
+The arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important
+desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and
+continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil
+beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy
+drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly
+time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and other
+obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my reconnoissance
+northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen miles, and bearing
+27½° E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 85°;
+at 4 P.M., 79°: at 9, 65°.
+
+30TH MAY.--I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of
+excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit
+consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was
+much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of those
+remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had since seen
+them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'-back
+crest of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other heights.
+The girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and only
+sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same kind, a
+very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality, seems
+to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the kangaroo is
+remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I am sure,
+remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood being so
+light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or tomahawk,
+might live by the side of one without other food or water; as if nature
+in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary places,
+had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must contain a
+great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to contain as
+much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great number of
+seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds; and, from
+the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a bird on a
+rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of this tree
+may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds being the
+favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed probably
+requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may
+grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and
+satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to the
+southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount Lonsdale):
+the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in the S. W.;
+and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward, beyond
+which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were just
+visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's
+course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing, and
+the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such
+occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from the
+N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or
+towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected
+various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus
+connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango, Mount
+Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some almost
+clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and seemed to be
+also connected with those stretching towards Bindango, and separating the
+basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country. A hill similar to
+that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the interior side of
+it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The valley at the
+base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA; and there
+was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped not long
+before, but in which no water then remained.
+
+[* A new genus, since named DELABECHEA.]
+
+On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left
+it in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing,
+each, several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by
+two females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under
+arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to
+the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures
+motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before
+the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal
+speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses.
+Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they
+advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at a
+distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned
+round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that
+vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old
+soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first
+sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon
+after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to
+approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest
+following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite
+with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he
+continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities,
+and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also,
+by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial
+description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the
+white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a
+spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the
+one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the
+other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed
+more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above, the
+other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more
+remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave
+strict orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be
+allowed to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the
+natives; that no ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there.
+Nothing could be more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor
+more courageous than his appearance before our more numerous party, with
+his spears and open defiance; and I was determined to take every
+precaution to avoid a collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during
+our probably long residence here, our people from doing them any harm.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at noon, 60°; at 4 P.M., 63°; at 9, 31°.
+
+1ST JUNE.--The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded from
+the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach of
+the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line;
+and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health.
+The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again
+proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depôt here.
+Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him, for
+twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from the
+N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of
+Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their
+attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is
+from his own notes:--"At 1 P.M., an old native, accompanied by five
+younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and when
+within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably their
+chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest.
+Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received here,
+that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve that
+good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance, according
+to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green bough, and
+endeavoured by signs to make them leave:--finding that of no avail, I
+presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of bread.
+After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand, and
+taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence they
+had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid them
+farewell. As the others still remained in STATU QUO, I went through the
+same ceremony with them until they were all on their path homewards.
+Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I flattered myself that
+I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that we did not wish them
+beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at 4 P.M. a large number
+of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and children, came boldly up
+and encamped within a few yards of the tents, and two hundred more were
+reported to me by Mortimer as being at a short distance in their rear. I
+gave strict orders that no man should go near them, and I mustered the
+party myself at 8 P.M. Shortly afterwards, three or four natives came
+down to our fires, and on the men saying that they would not be made to
+leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and shewed them their own
+camp. One tall young native in particular, wearing an opossum cloak,
+exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I continued to watch their
+movements until half-past eleven, P.M. up to which time they were talking
+very earnestly, continually repeating the words "white fellow." I had not
+retired to my tent five minutes when I heard Baldock (one of the two men
+on watch) several times desire the natives to go back, who, as it
+appeared, would insist on coming forward to our fires. Serjeant Niblet
+then called me, saying he thought "all was not right," that the natives
+refused to keep away, and that he had seen the fire sticks of others
+approaching from several directions. On turning out, I found them making
+a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of our tents, and the
+grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their mischievous work. I
+called to them in the language of some of the aborigines, to go away
+quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but seeing that they still
+drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger of the camp, I
+desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their arms, to
+charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received orders. We
+succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm, one or two
+shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I had
+given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind them,
+all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them that we
+had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the cattle
+brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning watch, and
+no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of the treacherous
+nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic of the
+aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct of our
+neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was likely
+to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit that
+position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr. Kennedy
+to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could not keep
+pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so numbered, the others
+marked being those where his party had passed the night. This depôt camp
+was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such others of mine as have been
+marked between this and VIII., shall be added to this journal, and the
+whole marked on the map. A new species of CALLITRIS appeared among the
+trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the large leaved variety of ACACIA
+DECORA, further removed than usual from the common form, and approaching,
+in some respects, to A. RUBIDA. Among the bushes was the beautiful little
+A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its little heath-like leaves, and among the
+grasses was remarked an abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with
+extremely minute flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at noon, 64°;
+at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9, 30°.
+
+[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligulâ nulla nisi
+squamulâ quâdam, paniculâ effusâ ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque
+scabriusculis, paleis truncatis alterâ 3-nervi alterâ binervi.]
+
+2D JUNE.--Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over two of
+the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of the
+journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration of
+flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of
+mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I
+now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring
+carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd,
+formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to this
+point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner Mitchell,
+accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such passages as the
+following:--"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir Thomas Mitchell
+now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We understand the intrepid
+Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition to the Gulf, keeping
+to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not very encouraging to
+us, certainly; but we work for the future. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°;
+at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9, 30°.
+
+3D JUNE.--This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river,
+which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus
+tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It
+is therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr.
+Wm. M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the
+Barwan. The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed
+to be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was
+thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily
+watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle
+at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate
+protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very
+particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be
+allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use them
+very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible,
+respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+16°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 66°; at 9, 34°.
+
+
+
+Chapter V.
+
+CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE
+FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR
+BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE TRIBE.--
+HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER FROM THE
+WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE N.W.--DETERMINE TO
+FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS
+THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN
+AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH SCRUBS, AND OVER
+SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL
+DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--
+ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE RIVER WARREGO
+DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT.--MOUNT
+FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE NOGOA.--
+COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF SCRUB,
+IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN DOWNS.--
+BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT MUDGE.--
+LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.
+
+4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr. Kennedy adieu,
+for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my party and light
+carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left this zealous
+assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in departing on a
+hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the population
+might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left, predominated
+with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and repassing
+through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a length
+of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to be
+assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning and
+treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we parted
+in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a hope, I
+must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of pleasure,
+looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to encounter,
+and considering the state of my own health.
+
+The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and
+delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;
+therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day,
+and go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter
+journey. This was only of six miles from the depôt camp. Amongst the
+waterworn pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of
+coal and the rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its
+concomitant strata. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at 9 P.M., 40°.
+
+5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to the
+river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and
+convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I accordingly
+sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr. Kennedy, and
+with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring forward one of
+the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry channels of
+tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight, like the
+main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable point to
+encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there gullies
+rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the
+intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to
+contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to
+the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was very
+open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of water,
+forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from north to
+south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked XXXI.,
+last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24°; at 4 P.M., 70°; at 9,
+43°.
+
+6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,
+confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of
+course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the
+time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had
+now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical
+work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have
+had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men
+were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel
+was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26° 6' 25" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 30°; at noon, 75°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 50°.
+
+7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as
+we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with water-
+courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious impediment. At
+length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range, and a long ridge
+appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely, following up the smooth
+clay floor of a water-course, I found myself gradually entangled in a bad
+scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After cutting our way through it, for a
+mile and a half, I sought on the other side for any hollow leading off
+water, and found one which brought us into an open forest flat with a
+fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula appeared on its skirts; and, at
+length, abundance of water, also, in the ponds. The grass was so
+luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped beside it, without seeking
+the river, to which these ponds seemed adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+36°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 70° (XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet.
+
+8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was very
+fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating country
+intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics. At
+length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the west.
+Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main
+channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I
+was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although
+its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round even
+from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it, obliged me
+to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid them. We
+thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably level,
+and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed a
+water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,
+where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole
+nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I
+approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle
+from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on
+this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 36°; at 4 P. M., 85°; at 9, 70°. (XXXIII.)
+
+9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I considered
+that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet weather;
+and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in which I
+wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to explore the
+country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest. Little
+rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of hay,
+but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I found
+a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful
+clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few bushes,
+by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and endeavoured to
+talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh, who was with
+me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his language, and in
+vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this unintelligible parley at
+some distance, (for they would not come close up,) we rode on. We came at
+length on a sandy country with much Callitris, but the whole surface was
+undulating, and we crossed several chains of deep ponds, all falling to
+our right, or eastward; some containing water. At length, I perceived on
+the right, a deeper valley, and found in it a little river with a rocky
+bed, and coming from the N. N. W. At two miles further, along my N. W.
+course, I found it crossed it, coming from W. S. W., and here I turned,
+well pleased to find an abundant supply of water, and a good country in
+the best direction for our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on
+rock, and the water was plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the
+evening, after sunset we were called to by a numerous tribe of natives,
+assembled on the opposite steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we
+had encamped. By the particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had
+seen in the morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was
+evidently their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil
+in the bud, and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in
+line before the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced
+steadily up the opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud
+jeering noise. They set up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced
+to the brow of the cliff, as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently
+ascended, they fell off, and, by the time we gained the height, they had
+retired to a considerable distance, still shouting vociferously. Two,
+however, were seen drawing round our left flank, in a little gully,
+followed by a female carrying spears. I discharged my rifle over their
+heads, upon which they hastened to their fellows. On firing another shot
+over the dark noisy mass before us, they became suddenly quite silent,
+probably persuaded that we were really in earnest. We marched through
+their camp, made a feint, by descending into a gully, of coming upon them
+unawares, and continued there, until silence and darkness secured our
+peaceful occupation of the ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and
+noise, which might have been kept up until morning, and until they had
+worked themselves into that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think
+they have courage to fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up,
+they were sure to have followed us, and gathered a savage population in
+our rear. Lat., 25° 54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at 4 P. M.,
+70; at 9, 50°. (XXXIII.)
+
+10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession Creek, for
+so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until we filled a
+hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of yesterday. Thus we
+reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding much heavy sand in
+the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest point I had previously
+visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 39°. Height
+above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)
+
+11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were obliged to
+turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction whence the river
+came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of only 3½ miles,
+and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I thus came upon the
+rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording an easy means of
+crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only passable place I
+had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere. The strata at
+this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced me to travel
+westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner, a synclinal
+line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We passed
+through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable
+elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained
+grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds
+falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water, whereupon I
+returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9 P.M., 38°.
+Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)
+
+12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with
+ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a
+yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of
+waterworn pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a
+silicious petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse
+track of yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which
+grew brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we
+came upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew
+the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10
+feet. I found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was
+here 1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further
+on were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became
+overcast with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight
+showers fell. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 74°; at 4P.M., 73°;
+at 9, 60°. The wind and clouds came from the west.
+
+13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the northward;
+nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again lose westing,
+until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W. The morning
+was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to gall the
+necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that
+direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow, rosewood,
+and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and continuous. I
+fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course there was
+from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more sandy,
+although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the
+northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it
+ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had
+almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then
+burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I
+therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make
+much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at noon, 57°; at 4 P.M.,
+54°; at 9, 48°.
+
+[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles
+further would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the
+head of the river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]
+
+14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a
+change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were
+filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and
+took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered
+rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began
+to think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following
+down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25° 47'
+28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 55°; at 4 P.M., 57°; at 9,
+38° (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.
+
+15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its channel
+became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few miles
+below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in one part
+of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it would
+have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the S.S.W. I
+thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path was thus again
+crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then travelled 12½ miles,
+and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the day's journey, with little
+exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but for the rain that had
+fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and oxen. As it was,
+they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river, Mr. Stephenson
+caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a circumstance almost
+proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We found this day a new
+narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with bark thick, soft, and
+fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA was loaded
+with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods. Among the herbage was observed
+the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the
+light dry sand. Novelty in the plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be
+expected; the weather was cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment
+tolerably efficient. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 P. M., 58°; at 9
+P. M., 46° (XXXVII.). Height above the sea, 1827 feet.
+
+[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus
+mucronatoacuminatis supra glabris subtùs subsericeis marginibus arcte
+revolutis, paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-
+tomentosis. These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every
+other species.]
+
+16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river I
+had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th instant.
+The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning was
+about 2½ miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and even
+south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there was a
+little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I had
+intersected from the high station east of the depôt. It now bore 12° west
+of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country
+would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris was,
+as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand between
+them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its course,
+consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when their
+direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of
+encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be found
+in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for water, I
+found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 9 P.
+M., 54°. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.
+
+[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis
+canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis
+superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus
+parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis
+concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very
+distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid
+hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant,
+but very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]
+
+17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain already
+mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick forests of
+callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open places
+amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground was
+undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of these
+ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at length
+attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the summit I
+ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond it, we
+came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we greatly
+wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon
+hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy
+flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous
+but dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this
+downwards about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the
+sandstone cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks.
+Ascending at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above,
+and an open forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up
+at a rocky point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the
+Maran, convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far
+off. We descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry
+watercourse lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river.
+Here, however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform
+breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W., and
+I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,
+however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and the
+sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up
+the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found
+some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,
+which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for
+our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards
+until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without
+drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent
+throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from
+30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams
+might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained
+a vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was
+rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with
+rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make
+the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst
+the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I
+found, growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected
+by Allan Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of
+Hunter's River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on
+the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 9 P. M., 61°.
+
+18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly
+refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal
+Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the
+bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until
+he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst
+the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the
+summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my survey,
+lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was unimpeded by
+gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive view,
+embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of volcanic
+cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the direction
+of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little could be
+seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies, by which
+the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint in a long
+line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed thus to
+pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges about the
+25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden from my
+sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I had
+ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance bounded by
+low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides, like cliffs,
+towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke, indicated a
+good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station, that
+eastward of the depôt camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then
+attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the
+officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the
+summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,
+and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at
+a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could
+be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for
+which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race as
+had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science, and
+the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the world
+to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names were
+applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do honour
+to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a bald-
+forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to
+the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,
+Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished
+to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,
+Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all
+sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on which I
+stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as to
+form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,
+"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes
+grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst
+them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On
+returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a
+spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;
+having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal
+Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:
+thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds in
+the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the
+crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the
+horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more
+water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to
+the north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible
+from the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had
+found, in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone
+gullies radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards
+Mount Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of
+mountainous obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the
+principal features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for
+our carts in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first
+establish the party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it
+along the range towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be
+necessary, in order to turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking
+some rocky gully within a convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again
+to explore these recesses for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's
+pond in the main channel. Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two
+beautiful and delicate ferns, the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM
+ASSIMILE, the Australian maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA
+CUNNINGHAMII, on the rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a
+variety of E. SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise,
+56°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 63°; at 9, 55°. Height above the sea, 1578
+feet; and above river bed 40 feet.
+
+[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
+longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis)
+reticulatovenosis. This species is remarkable in the size and shape of
+its petiolated leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences
+(galls), each with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as
+many unequal projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of
+some BEGONIÀ.]
+
+19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the grass for
+our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, the
+sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's track
+towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which broke
+abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to the
+right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
+river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
+valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
+horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had already
+found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water sufficient for
+the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down the valley while
+they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile from the camp.
+The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this one, were dry.
+Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent quality. Pigeons
+were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) which is so great a
+luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the feathered race. The
+highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day appeared (by Captain
+King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. That of the camp over
+the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of these cliffs above the
+bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°;
+at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 61°.
+
+20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the country
+beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest land, and a
+less broken country, in a direction much further to the westward than the
+course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I now proceeded W.N.W.
+towards that open forest land. We found the country open for some miles,
+then, entering a flat or valley, I descended gradually between sandstone
+rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep ponds led to the north-west.
+On following this down, I found it turned more and more to the westward,
+and at length to the south-west, whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy
+banks, and, following up a ravine from the other side, again endeavoured
+to pursue my intended course. We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a
+sandstone range, and descended by another valley which led first
+northward, but terminated in joining a spacious grassy flat with dry
+ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this downwards for several miles in a
+rainy evening, and found at last, to my disappointment, that this also
+turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and hemmed in by low rocky points
+of ground, of very uniform shape. Many marks of natives appeared on the
+trees, and, in good seasons, it must be one of their favourite spots. I
+left it, however, when darkness and heavy rain obliged me to look for
+shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. By the time we arrived at
+this, we could see no grassy spot for our horses, nor any sort of cover
+for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a fallen tree, and under this,
+covered with a few boughs, we lay down on the wet earth for the night,
+being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, water for ourselves and
+horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9,
+57°.
+
+21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we should
+have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of well filled
+ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment to this
+journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were unavoidable.
+On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine open forest
+hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of Mount Owen,
+had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak induced me to
+approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little water-course
+in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the product of last
+night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the deviation from my
+route. A group of the most picturesque hills imaginable lay to the
+northward, and were connected with this, the whole being branches from
+the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep blue colour, where their
+clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly of a golden hue, from the
+rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke through the heavy clouds and
+poured rays over them, which perfected the beauty of the landscape. I
+recognised, from this apex, my station on Mount Owen, and several hills I
+had intersected from it. Amongst others, the three remarkable cones to
+the westward of Mount Faraday, apparently a continuation of the line of
+summits I have already mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal
+trap in nodules, the crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of
+lime, and there were many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round
+shot, strewed about. A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest
+part, and, on this summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by
+local attraction, and quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket
+sextant, and with it took some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily
+enjoyed a breakfast, and named the hill which gave us the water, Mount
+Aquarius. Returning towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived
+at the head of a gully which led tolerably direct until we found our
+track, in the creek I had run down on the preceding day. But night was
+approaching, and we had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern
+before which a large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night
+there in my cloak, I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at
+the camp, at 4 P. M., had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer
+to 22°, or 10° below the freezing point.
+
+22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
+determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
+original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
+neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a
+passing shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
+Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, from
+the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that summit
+to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of the
+Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land seemed the
+highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's Table Land. I
+could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix it in my map.
+I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the northward, and
+a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country beyond, through
+which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to prepare for a
+"raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 27°; at noon, 52°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 59°.
+
+23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled nearly
+northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large kangaroo
+entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in avoiding those
+on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, showed me that
+this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to Mount Clift from
+my former observations, and therefore followed it by keeping between the
+heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found one favourable for
+a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, valley, extending
+about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes evidently held much
+water, although they were then dry. This soon, however, turned to the
+south-west, evidently to join the channel I had before explored. Quitting
+it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended sandstone cliffs and pushed
+through scrubs, determined to proceed directly north-ward, until I met
+with valleys falling north-west. We thus passed just under the most
+easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, about sunset, to a hollow
+containing ponds, in two of which we found water. Here we gladly
+bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and were numerous higher up
+the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 54°; at 4 P. M., 50°;
+at 9, 40°.
+
+24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
+frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
+which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
+Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
+after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing
+feature, (especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley
+descending to the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water
+holes, and in two of these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The
+course, throughout all its windings, was towards the north-west, and this
+I, at the time, thought, might be a northern water. I therefore returned,
+anxious to bring the party thus far, at all events, and resolved to
+follow this little river down. We arrived, on our way back, in the
+evening of the same day, in the valley I had quitted in the morning,
+having followed down a water-course from the end of Hope's Table Land,
+under which I had passed, in search of a good way for the carts. Although
+we had seen promising ponds of water in this little channel, we could
+find none in the lower part, having in the expectation of finding some,
+rode on until darkness prevented me from going further. We were thus
+obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) without water, and almost
+without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern where I had slept a few
+nights before, especially when I arose here in the night to mend the
+fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt afterwards that at
+the camp, the thermometer at 4 P. M. had been as low as 17° of
+Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 51°; at 4 P. M.
+49°; at 9, 29°.
+
+[* This was 15° degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much more
+easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
+moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
+Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated 7th
+April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
+
+"With a temperature of 20° below the freezing point, we found the ice to
+form so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the
+barrier in so extremely severe a period of the season being
+impracticable, we stood away to the westward, for the purpose of making
+another attempt to approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude
+(76° S.) on the 15th February."]
+
+25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
+minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
+rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
+not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
+bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
+stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
+the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount
+Clift, or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country,
+should be preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the
+eastern gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift
+than at the point where I before came down. But I found them much more
+acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
+rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
+called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
+from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
+its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
+towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us upon
+the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
+looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
+and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
+discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
+dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! However
+that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding water. In the
+neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were collected; viz.
+NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES TENUIFOLIA,
+ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with HOVEA
+LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, a low
+shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small species
+of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a verdant
+fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small red
+berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
+appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
+being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have been
+an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost tomentose
+above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus DODONOEA,
+frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its flowers.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. M. 51°; at 9, 22°.
+
+[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus,
+foliis obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque,
+capsulis tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
+
+26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
+finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
+course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed the
+barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be 700
+feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
+to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel
+along its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had
+bivouacked on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before
+sunset, encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which
+were two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the
+horses nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered
+out of buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
+abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
+cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°;
+at noon, 48°; at 4 P. M. 47°; at 9, 37°.
+
+27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to come
+directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
+bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
+possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
+within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left,
+and some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
+encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
+cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
+way, about 3 P. M., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced with
+our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up by
+sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
+extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very
+luxuriant, apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately
+to the westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
+bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was open
+along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along its
+sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and various
+remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, forming a
+shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 20°; at 9 P. M., 29°. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
+
+28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the ordinary
+weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the barometer also
+indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I sent the party
+forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to the ponds in the
+newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I proceeded myself,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the fine cone already
+mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and extensive view of the
+mountains further northward. Most of the summits I had previously
+intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just appeared over an
+intermediate woody range, through which I was at a loss to discover where
+our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the north-west, I could
+just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills arising from a much
+lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever might be the final
+course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and water. The most
+important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a grey misty tint, as
+if it marked a valley descending from the highest eastern mountains,
+towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. Bare crests of
+similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole extent of that
+valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in such a clime,
+with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if watered
+well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it was
+fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended consisted of
+trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at its base, and
+on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact felspathic rock
+which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has been considered a
+very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an altered rock. Here,
+in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to break into
+irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; and I
+observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side lay
+uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60°. That this is a hypogene
+rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident
+at Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
+affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
+had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM ELLIPTICUM.
+I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since ascertained, by
+that officer's register and calculations, the height of this summit above
+the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 feet.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 25°. (XXXIX)
+
+29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water (coming
+from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left bank of
+the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged me to
+make some détours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we regained
+the banks of the river, although our progress was not considerable. Its
+general course was still north-west, to the spot selected for my second
+camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks high, rounded,
+and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel was rarely to be
+seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent temporary showers
+seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I ascertained the
+variation of the needle to be 8° 4' E. here. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+25°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 53°. Height above the sea, 1914 feet. (XL.)
+
+30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the
+southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered
+with scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the
+carts along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did
+not proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged
+us to abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
+projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
+direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the bank,
+southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
+directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained
+a view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
+and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
+this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of
+smoke seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but,
+towards the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this
+disappointment. Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an
+intervening woody range, there indicated a much lower and different kind
+of country, as if that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern
+waters; the woody intervening range appearing to be the division between
+them. As our last explored river again turned southward, it seemed
+reasonable to expect, beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing
+a different course. This range was plainly traceable from the high
+mountains more to the eastward, and was continuous westward to three
+remarkable conical hills, beyond which, the view did not extend. On the
+same range, a fine tableshaped mountain appeared nearly north. This I had
+already intersected from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The
+hill on which I stood consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the
+western extremity of Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards
+found by Mr. Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That
+ravine was extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The
+bottle-tree (Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it,
+in the stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One
+thorny tree or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again
+appeared here; it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf
+somewhat like the human hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright
+scarlet colour, about the shape and size of a French bean. This,
+sometimes grew to a tree as much as a foot in diameter; and the natives,
+who, like Nature herself, may be said to do nothing in vain, had cut one
+down, and carried off the whole of the trunk. The wood was of a leaden
+colour. This proved to be a new species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*]
+By our last day's journey, we had lost two miles of northing, and had
+thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south latitude. I therefore
+determined to cross our friendly little river, and look for another
+beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P. M., 65°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1732 feet. (XLI.)
+
+[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
+foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
+lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although
+no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the
+pod and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad
+and not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings
+extended.]
+
+1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to look
+into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
+western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
+into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
+that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
+into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
+to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
+clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I
+take him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out,
+and ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
+accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran
+northwest, and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow
+it then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
+back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
+to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
+way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to me.
+One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other or
+any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave to
+this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
+side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
+Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
+none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
+particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved
+ironbark, was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
+leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered lead-
+wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant among the
+grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was producing its
+small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow leaves and globular
+fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new CAPPARIS.[**]
+Thermometer, at daybreak, 35°; at 9 P.M., 38°.
+
+[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis
+obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus
+subsolitariis.]
+
+[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,
+foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus
+aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,
+stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]
+
+2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I had
+been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it widened
+very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a deep
+current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices seemed
+to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most picturesque
+outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us, resembled pyramids,
+and I saw an open country beyond them, from which other summits of
+extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we had found no moisture in the
+ponds, and lamented that a country, in every other respect so fine,
+should be without water. Further on, I perceived reeds in the hollow of
+the valley, and Yuranigh said there must be a spring, upon which he
+walked in amongst them, but still found the earth dry. The reeds at
+length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at the lower part of the
+flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to examine that point. He
+emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a distance, made Douglas, my
+other man, say, "He has found water." He had found A RUNNING STREAM, to
+which he had been guided by its own music, and taking a tin pot, he
+brought me some of it. The water was clear and sparkling, tasting
+strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that this was the head of a river
+that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of picturesque beauty and pastoral
+abundance, within eighty miles of the tropics, we had discovered the
+first running stream seen on this journey. I returned, determined to
+bring the party thus far, and with the intention of passing that night
+where we had found water in a rock about six miles back, that we might
+sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had also the benefit of a
+cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we defied the frost of a
+very cold night, the thermometer having been registered at the camp, at 3
+A.M., as low as 7°. In the scrubs we had passed through in the morning, a
+variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA, with grey velvety leaves, was
+scarcely in flower; and I observed a beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS
+with large tubular flowers.[*] The ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the
+sandstone ground above the gullies, and a broad-leaved form of the
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone brightly, and the rock being full
+of silver mica, the splendour of the scene imparted to my eye and mind
+then a degree of gratification far beyond any associations of the richest
+furniture of a palace. We found it impossible to get our horses to the
+water; but we hit upon an expedient which answered even better than a
+bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak.
+
+[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi
+in petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis
+acuminatis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra
+medium solutâ.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines
+long. Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]
+
+3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and found
+an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at the
+camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part of
+the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°; at
+noon, 60; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 26°. Height of camp above the sea, 1800
+feet. (XLII.)
+
+4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this morning.
+Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the banks had
+been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance we hit
+upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy valley
+descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky crooked
+part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub directly to
+the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the valley, and
+arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of my
+bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by Arcturus)
+to be 24° 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 4 P.M., 49°; at 9,
+38°. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)
+
+5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze our
+tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We proceeded
+along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which appeared quite
+isolated, and just such as painters place in middle distance, I named
+Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of the right bank of
+the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had suddenly
+brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we had before
+us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards the country we
+were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country seemed new to us.
+The barometer showed we were rapidly descending, and I expected that our
+living stream would soon join that greater stream, the basin of which I
+thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from Mount P. P. King on
+the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the others, curved round
+from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in mountains equidistant
+between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it was reasonable to suppose
+that we had at length crossed the division between northern and southern
+waters. That between eastern and western waters was still to be
+discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where water was so scarce
+then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means of determining
+where that division was. If the general course of this river was found to
+be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that the dividing
+ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the westward of
+north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our route, and
+this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing north-
+westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King. Latitude
+24° 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. M.,
+49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, according to sixteen observations,
+1421 feet. (XLIV.)
+
+6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA appeared
+amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods below, we found
+an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA (Reichb.) VAR.
+MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was less angular, and
+the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long hoary leaves,
+and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA, at a later
+season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also was found
+here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**] Travelling along
+the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of sparkling water
+to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could only account for
+the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a season, by the
+support of many springs. We made sure of water now for the rest of our
+journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et labetur in omne
+volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any I had ever seen
+in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals in ruins; others
+forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and contrasted with
+the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a fine stream in the
+foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole country. It was a
+discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those beautiful recesses
+of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown. The better to mark
+them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of Salvator Rosa.[***]
+The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the thick woods, just as
+John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them out in his beautiful
+sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature come so near these
+creations of genius and imagination. Where we encamped, the river was
+very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that the use of a bucket was
+necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding every precaution, one
+animal walked into the river, and could not be got out without great
+difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were two enormous eels,
+beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus lay abundantly on the
+banks, about the old fires of the natives. These were larger than either
+those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran; and although such
+freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a peculiarity in these was
+pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they much resembled the
+impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is much broader at the
+toes than at the heel). We here met with a new species of BORONIA,
+resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties afterwards occurred.
+It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale purple flowers.[****]
+A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining leaves, also grew
+here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed resembling
+European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with white
+flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS formed a small
+shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P.M., 49°; at 9,
+38°. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.
+
+[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus
+supra glabris subtus incanis, paniculâ terminali tomentosâ, floribus
+distantibus.]
+
+[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis
+oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris
+trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime
+pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6
+linearibus glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]
+
+[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and
+ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on
+mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]
+
+[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis
+pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus
+subsolitariis axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]
+
+[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis
+falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis
+subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis
+solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel
+brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia
+shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually
+almost sessile.]
+
+7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon
+found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in
+one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush
+mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the
+current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the
+hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most charming
+morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an open forest
+which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and in a general
+direction about north-west. At length we approached the northern limits
+of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it, as we had
+reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry channel, which bore
+the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons. Following this dry
+channel down, I found its course turned to the northward, and even to the
+north-east. When we were disposed to encamp, I could find no water in the
+bed, nor were we better off when we had encamped, until Corporal Graham
+dug between two rocks therein, and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in
+one day vanished the pleasing prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of
+a stream flowing in the direction of our intended route. This might be, I
+then thought, the tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would
+be found to flow westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the
+desired north-west direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at 4 P.M.,
+58°; at 9, 25°. (XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.
+
+8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this
+river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling
+into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick
+brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged
+gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,
+induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined
+to penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that
+there I might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction,
+or, if not, cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was
+lost, however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses
+crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The
+scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings
+admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of
+sunset, I found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only
+half a minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with
+difficulty, about two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of
+a small watercourse, I found that even this turned south-east, evidently
+to fall into the reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I
+determined on an immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back
+to our friendly river. It was comparatively easy to return through the
+opening we had made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so
+that by twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the
+river, and near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying
+almost in my face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we
+afterwards found the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of
+the bullocks got bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole
+strength of the party dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+18°; at 4 P.M., 54°; at 9, 25°. Height above the sea, 1241 feet.
+
+9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the
+scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and
+the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24° 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 14°; (in my tent, 18°;) at 9 P.M., 48°.
+
+10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight
+eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to
+cut a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.
+While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but
+met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that
+direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.
+towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined
+them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through
+open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy
+gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.
+Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the
+border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24° 33'
+25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 P.M., 62°; at 9,
+29°. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.
+
+11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a
+fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again
+impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of this
+river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a
+large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to
+the eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward.
+It was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the
+coast, and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in
+it, about the latitude of 25° S. This was more apparent to me on crossing
+the river, and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He
+could see no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high
+table land already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could
+trace the course of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed
+them to encamp, and proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W.
+direction, carrying provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea
+of Brigalow--
+
+"----And we did buffet it, With lusty sinews throwing it aside, And
+stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."
+
+After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were
+rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.
+That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the
+foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood, extended
+far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of mountains of
+romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.
+
+"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"
+
+included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which, with
+its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the
+finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a
+perfectly clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had
+emerged, through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond
+that spot, until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits
+before me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these
+masses, seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my
+observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,
+the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a
+great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of
+quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it.
+I could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense
+of shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and
+prove ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had
+indulgently destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we
+traversed, consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood
+in great abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden
+as to be only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken
+character. Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich
+black earth, which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history
+may be simple, and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy
+could but find it out. We found, further on, a channel full of water,
+with reeds about the bed of it. There had been a current in it a short
+time previously, and, indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in
+some hollows in the Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and
+thus might have afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had
+other directions been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow
+near the water, not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and
+thus we passed the night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 30°.
+
+12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the
+assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,
+than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed
+Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the
+reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet
+in that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the
+remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,
+although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason
+for supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could
+escape to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; in my tent, 15°; at
+noon, 67° at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 35°. Height above the sea, 1107 feet.
+
+13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river
+Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W.,
+but deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick
+scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we crossed,
+was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the river, where
+I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains adjacent, the
+ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we saw also various
+new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs in the scrub. The
+banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay. I employed the
+party to make a bridge across it, and this was well completed before
+sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M. 68°; at 9,
+40°. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)
+
+14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we
+travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the
+richest plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS,
+and PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most
+abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have
+been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived
+at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We
+soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,
+apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub
+of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so
+thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad,
+but because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so
+easily take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack,
+after imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich
+land was thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex,
+agate, and chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most
+strikingly resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an
+entire trunk lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains
+of a tree! I obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of
+this were rare. The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was
+1512 feet above the sea.
+
+Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to the
+westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping towards
+a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to find an
+open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at length arrived.
+I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and having halted the
+party to examine them, I found they were quite impassable. Such an
+unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open country, yet UNDER
+that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it was unexpected, and
+I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I had seen on our
+right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also found some large
+ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were pitching the tents I
+rode down the valley about two miles, and found that the direction of the
+water-course was about north-east. Such a direction was not very
+favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country beyond the
+limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it further.
+Latitude, 24° 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 P. M., 66°;
+at 9, 49°. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.
+
+15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I proceeded
+about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length, mighty
+rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further. Leaving him
+in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely accessible with
+Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated summit, I saw still
+worse gullies before us, amongst which I could perceive no feature
+affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any characteristic of the
+structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the rugged summits I
+had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered, and could not
+then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on completing my map),
+that they were then under my feet. The highest parts seemed to extend
+south-westward. To cross such a region with our carts, was quite
+impossible, and I could only return, and, however reluctantly, follow
+down the valley in which we had encamped, until it should afford access
+to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse were steep, the
+bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous, alternately closing on
+rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus we were obliged to
+cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered each crossing a
+difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after crossing ten
+times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct distance from
+the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each crossing, cut
+the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general direction, I
+ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near the spot,
+where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this having been
+the first water we had seen during that day's laborious journey.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 44°.
+
+16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I considered
+it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, and
+thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour and
+delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore distressing
+to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to work out of it,
+to get round them. The whole day was consumed in proceeding thus about 5½
+miles, and in an easterly direction. The closing in of the valley lower
+down, seemed to shut us from further progress even so, and I encamped,
+rather at a loss how to proceed. Just then Mr. Stephenson came to inform
+me that he had seen, from a rocky point on the left, an opening to the
+north-west, and level ground beyond it. I therefore determined to
+accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre the country in that direction.
+By digging in the bed of the creek, water was again obtained by Corporal
+Graham. Some extremely fragrant shrubs were discovered in these rocky
+recesses, especially one, which filled the air with perfume to a great
+distance around. It seemed to be a EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit,
+but with a powerful odour of balm, and formed a bush five feet high,
+growing on sandstone rocks, having a narrow leaf, and rather thorny
+stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] There was another bush, with
+leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but having a perfume equally strong
+of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that neither the seed, flower, nor
+fruit of these interesting shrubs could be obtained at that season. In
+that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed,
+and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began
+to indicate its flowering season, and we found a magnificent new crimson
+CALLISTEMON with its young flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new
+DODONOEA with wingless, 3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species
+of AOTUS, with narrow hoary leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees
+was a splendid new GEIGERA, with broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The
+PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very singular and little known fern, with
+narrow leaves and small orbicular leaflets, was also there, with the
+ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA
+AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-
+like heads of flowers, was common; and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA
+MONOPHYLLA was observed among the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at
+9 P.M., 41°.
+
+[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
+foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
+basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
+
+[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute
+tuberculatis, foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-
+parallelo-venosis viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to
+name this EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the
+deliciously fragrant lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as
+the recent state of the plant.]
+
+[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
+quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
+lanatis.]
+
+[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-
+lanceolatis parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis
+3-locularibus trigonis apteris.]
+
+[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
+crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis,
+calycis vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
+villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOÏDES Meisn., but differing in the narrow
+and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
+
+[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe
+petiolatis subtus obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This
+appears to differ from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
+
+17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. By
+merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another water-
+course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came from the
+west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I had
+previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
+this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
+deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
+broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
+gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
+all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling
+to my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
+and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at
+the gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to
+guard the entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and
+kangaroos were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very
+attentively, to be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature
+only. A turret with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first
+appeared through the trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a
+round hill. On a nearer approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey
+rocks, and the small pines climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising
+out of a forest of common trees, presented still a very remarkable
+object. I named the valley "Glen Turret," and this feature "Tower
+Almond," after an ancient castle, the scene of many early associations,
+and now quite as uninhabited as this. Passing through Glen Turret, we
+ascended the nearest summit on the right, and from it beheld a prospect
+most cheering, after our toils amid rocky ravines. On the westward, the
+rocky range seemed to terminate abruptly towards the north, in an
+elevated point, which seemed to command an extensive view over the
+unknown W. and N.W. Out of that region two isolated mountain masses arose
+from an open country, and were clothed with open forests to their
+summits. Further eastward, masses of mountain in the extreme distance
+appeared covered, also, with open forests, and presented finely rounded
+outlines, not likely to impede our passage, in any direction. But towards
+the N.W. our view was not so extensive; like the uncertain future, it
+still lay hid. The retrospect was very extensive, including Mount Faraday
+in the extreme distance, and which thus afforded me a valuable back angle
+for the correction of our longitude from any errors of detailed survey.
+The lofty mass of Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E.,
+and I could here again intersect its three principal points. The view
+back to the Pass was very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on
+the bold summits, as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to
+the westward, an interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach,
+presenting a crescent, concave on that side, apparently the limit to the
+basin of the Nogoa, and the dividing range between eastern and western
+waters. Our Pass seemed to be the only outlet through the labyrinths
+behind us. Even the open plains beyond them were visible in a yellow
+streak above the precipices. Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was
+distinctly visible, on the horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 29°; at 9 P.M., 43°. (LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
+
+18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
+brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
+obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its
+elevated extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction,
+tolerably open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of
+grass, and near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds
+descending to the eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the
+habit of a dwarf Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24° 6' 47" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 44°.
+(LII.)
+
+[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
+cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus
+solitariis sessilibus.]
+
+19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting further
+to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most northern
+summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up by
+gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
+and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
+near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
+summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
+Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
+apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
+feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
+the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
+appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features,
+although much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then
+stood, seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some
+higher ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the
+coast. Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken
+hills, at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-
+connected undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the
+south-east, whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy
+Creek, while others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a
+separate basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river
+was indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the
+left or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated
+mountain mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the
+valley formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point
+of the whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite,
+lay in that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10° W. of
+N.) through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
+mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
+according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
+not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
+named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
+were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
+itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
+impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
+camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
+two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
+Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
+that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
+handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
+Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham took
+the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
+expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
+woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or
+deeds suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
+this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
+which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered a
+very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
+leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
+gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
+Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**].
+Although we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
+pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed us to
+the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had been
+frosty. Latitude, 24° 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 47°.
+
+[* See page 285.]
+
+[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
+lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
+canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
+OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
+WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
+EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN PLAINS,
+WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DRY
+CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND PROCEED N.W.--FROM
+A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH BRIGALOW SCRUB
+TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE CHANNEL MORE
+CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY CHANNEL JOINS
+FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS
+FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK BRIGALOW.--NIGHT
+WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS COURSE BEING EASTWARD
+OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE OUR TRACK TO THE
+PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART,
+WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow scrub,
+on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, and
+crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards the
+N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, resembling
+a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was precipitous, and
+seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after crossing a ridge
+rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub upon it, and one
+or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the bottle tree,
+(DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses descending to the
+southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. One, at length, on
+our right, taking the direction in which I was proceeding, viz., 10° W.
+of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a broader valley leading N.W.
+Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, we found at length a fine
+pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, after a journey of about
+twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to the base of the lofty
+isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower valley crossed it,
+falling either to the northward or southward. This I left in pleasing
+uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that locality, when
+I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running north and south.
+I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount Beaufort, in honour
+of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°;
+at noon, 66°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 62°. (LIII.)
+
+21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad valley,
+we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly turned
+in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from the
+south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
+Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we had
+at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil consisted
+of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. We got
+amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for the
+channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
+Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
+no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
+brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon arid
+stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently from
+drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means encouraging.
+On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, at an
+old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that water was
+not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two native
+companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, on which
+salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the Bogan, had
+been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The very grass
+seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so checked by drought.
+A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, and convert the
+country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured further, to send
+the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to examine the
+country before us. Latitude, 23° 48' 36". Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°;
+at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 48°.
+
+22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, I
+went forward on the bearing of 30° W. of N. I soon fell in with the
+united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
+direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
+these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
+ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
+northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
+them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to relieve
+me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A promising
+valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, and from it
+arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, from other
+ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured the outlines
+of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this morning were
+a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of yesterday. Such is
+human life in travelling, and so it was in war at Salamanca this day
+thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short journey on the bank of
+the river. Latitude, 24° 46' 46". Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°, at noon,
+74°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 64°. (LIV.)
+
+23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so that
+none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. Accordingly, on
+arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to all, that they
+might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we not
+fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread into
+little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes formed
+by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of the
+grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been due,
+and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we had
+travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
+scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
+with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
+and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the water-
+worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, besides
+the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. Very old
+and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were small
+fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large forked
+tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
+eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
+apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
+23° 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 P.M. 80;
+at 9, 55°. (LV.)
+
+24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air was
+balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. Lightning
+had been seen to the northward during the night. In following the little
+wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, and crossed
+two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a good large
+pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling the main
+channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. With the
+last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became neighbours to
+the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was to be seen, and
+the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in length, with
+ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of thunder was heard
+in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, that we were near
+the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms exhausted
+themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where they fell.
+During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next morning, to
+the northward. Latitude, 23° 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4, P.M., 82°; at 9, 66°. (LVI.)
+
+25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
+route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
+Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
+line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
+just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
+fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
+The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
+improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
+rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to the
+eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At eight
+miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many ducks,
+and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, finding that
+water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we required it.
+Latitude, 23° 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at noon, 77°; at 4
+P.M., 85°; at 9, 53°. (LVII.)
+
+26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out in
+that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
+scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
+of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
+genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
+travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
+indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
+straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
+rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
+new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
+flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
+useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; and
+useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
+fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late,
+I travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained
+its banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
+bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst
+it, evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
+spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
+terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and
+fruit. Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and
+underside of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span
+long, cordato acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green
+and glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
+pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
+Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
+seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 79°; at 4 P.M., 89°; at 9, 75°.
+(LVIII,)
+
+[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis,
+foliis impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis
+subalternis.]
+
+27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
+variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much whereof
+lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there was
+any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
+little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
+water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as
+close as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
+yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
+was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
+thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
+named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a range
+in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only to
+send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
+westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
+water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
+miles. Latitude, 23° 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 83°; at
+4 P.M., 90°; at 9, 53°. (LIX.)
+
+28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
+hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
+southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
+and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
+formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
+impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
+to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from
+the usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
+party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
+by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
+over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
+fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had been
+flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed there,
+the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of water, and
+beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a tribe
+of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of decayed
+stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once grown, and
+that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing; as if,
+according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to open
+downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular seasons,
+become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted in the
+scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the plain, and
+across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through some open
+forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the many dry
+channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom then
+consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit it,
+and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly undulating
+ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the LORANTHUS
+SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a tree, from
+whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of which I
+ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it, through
+which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The extreme
+westerly escarp of these hills bore 17° E. of N., so that nothing was
+likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
+direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
+consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
+brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
+stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
+On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
+good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
+plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
+found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23° 5'
+20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P.M., 88°; at 9,
+58°. (XL.)
+
+29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of easy
+access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a N.W.
+direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood and
+other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew in the
+place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open, park-
+like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a greenness
+was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these tropical regions.
+Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-
+flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike plant, and a form of
+Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the two other varieties. This
+was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species of the genus GEIJERA
+formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender weeping branches. It
+was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, except that its flowers
+were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus STENOCHILUS, but
+new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large spreading tree,
+from which we could bring away nothing that would enable botanists to
+describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of the leaves, which,
+Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE; but the fruit appeared
+to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect to lead to any
+satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently from those near
+Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another language." This river
+was not the least unique of our recent discoveries. It still consisted of
+a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any one continuous
+channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by various trees
+growing in the banks. When their large roots became denuded by the
+floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that the tree fell
+over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the floating-wreck,
+and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of floating wreck
+became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so formed forced the
+river into new currents, working out new courses; and this appeared to
+give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It seems extremely
+favourable for the retention of water in a country where it may be
+scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun, preserve it
+much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed channel
+alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found the
+hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded in
+discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
+naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
+although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
+attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
+delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
+90° about 4 P.M., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
+recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
+disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
+in May. Latitude, 22° 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon,
+80°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 51°. (LXI.)
+
+[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus
+in petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
+
+[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
+apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
+lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis
+infimâ retusâ vix caeteris magis solutâ.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but
+much whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the
+lower one much broader.]
+
+30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
+endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
+the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to
+the left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into
+extensive plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and
+that was skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we
+entered an open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw,
+from the skirts of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the
+east for several days past, and I was able to intersect various points.
+We seemed to be descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon,
+covered with ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved
+both as to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet
+high, was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
+DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M.
+DULCE. A hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained
+abundance of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and,
+instead of brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong
+grass, and much verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble
+to cross, and soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had
+run well to the westward. We had crossed the 147° of E. longitude, and I
+was very anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I
+crossed it, and hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a
+flat-topped cliffy range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was
+low; the middle part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our
+camp. It was likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our
+purpose. Latitude, 22° 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
+82°; at 4 P.M., 83°; at 9, 45°. (LXII.)
+
+31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
+that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in
+a deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
+I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
+river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This
+new river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened
+across it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction
+of the two rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green
+pods and dry pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than
+those of Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?)
+Beyond the last found river, we travelled over open forest land,
+occasionally passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might
+again see water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our
+abundant little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for
+such was the bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious
+dry lagoon. Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large
+floods from the river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still
+continuing along the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared,
+and I finally encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The
+course and character of the river below the junction last mentioned,
+remained to be ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which,
+before the rain, had been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen,
+which bore some resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered
+in any quantity. The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form
+from any to be seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard
+clay about the size and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being
+larger, or as much as 3½ feet high, others smaller. In some places they
+were so numerous, as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst,
+especially where the grass was long. Latitude of this camp, 22° 44' 45".
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 43°.
+(LXIII.)
+
+1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
+followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came upon
+the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many miles in
+that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where the very
+coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina appeared
+amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh went to the
+top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to the
+eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
+course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low
+range already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country
+between the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very
+low. Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
+course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction,
+and forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
+much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
+Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
+important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
+grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
+lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
+ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
+encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
+appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
+woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
+white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
+tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
+bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
+LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
+Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary CAPPARIS
+was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight inches long,
+although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and their hard
+leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
+afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 44°. Latitude, 22°
+38' 40". (LXIV.)
+
+[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
+longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
+solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
+
+2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain, but
+lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W. course
+in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests alternating
+with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving dry hollows
+where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all these
+hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and children,
+remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These numerous
+receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with which even
+the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of the animal
+world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that sort of
+scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river, by
+travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
+the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
+camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
+river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
+would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
+nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
+terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
+be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40° N. of W. to
+40° E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost
+bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the
+river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned
+direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In
+the dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite
+new to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and
+a very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found
+near this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS
+CURVIPES was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of
+Acacia was perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also
+a curious scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22° 30' 10" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 61°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 40°.
+(LXV.)
+
+[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
+oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
+pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
+pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
+distinct.]
+
+[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus,
+oblongospathulatis acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et
+obsolete dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis
+radicalibus elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum
+vel trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-
+lanceolatis, floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis,
+membranaceis, ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis,
+petiolatisque; antherae liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum,
+labiis compressis, cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent.
+lata, crassinervia; scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum
+elongati.]
+
+[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
+glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
+laciniis duabus supremis diù vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
+subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
+
+3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
+crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the
+river bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain
+distance from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had
+been accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the
+river, and other food. The river was found to spread into separate
+channels, in which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them
+again united in a splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general
+course was by no means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was
+much to be apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast,
+and become another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the
+interior country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys
+have been made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
+polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
+brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part
+where we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded
+by torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn
+banks, and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from
+these obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
+scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
+two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
+coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
+the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten
+miles. The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics,
+which they seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That
+we had just quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for
+brigalow scrubs, and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered
+river seemed quite the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform;
+the banks being covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was
+sandy, but contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us
+to higher regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might
+fall in the direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin
+fish of the Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in
+the river to which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other
+sorts. There was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in
+particular, growing in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining
+bark of the tea-tree (mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of
+the eucalyptus; a HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI,
+but not in flower; a CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or
+at least closely allied to it, occupied the dry sandy ground with
+MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded weed; and some Cinchonad allied to
+Coffea, with young fruit, the size of small olives. Latitude, 22° 23'
+10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 59°; at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9,
+37°; with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVI.)
+
+4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit the
+head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in any
+direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
+soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
+it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
+to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
+ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
+length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
+and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one piece of
+rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the rest,
+and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated
+flattopped range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
+similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
+woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
+still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
+eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
+northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
+these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to
+follow in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the
+horizon, I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to
+have found water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and
+absorbent. There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22° 19' 45" S. On this
+day's journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan,
+none of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed
+the Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like
+mint, was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new
+MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 P.M., 63°;
+at 9, 29°; with wet bulb, 18°.
+
+[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
+excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis
+acuminatis appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis
+obtusis imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis
+globosis.--A very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII,
+Endl.: but extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of
+the copious slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the
+bleached slender branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the
+leaves had been, as it were, sunk.]
+
+5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my expectations, we
+had come quite far enough from the one we had previously followed, which
+still might have turned N.W., where we wished it to go; although I
+confess the prospect was by no means promising. The doubt was still to be
+removed, and, after a night passed without water, the earliest dawn saw
+us again going forward, in a direction a little to the eastward of N. It
+was only after pursuing that line for seventeen miles, that we again
+found the river, unchanged in character, and still running northerly.
+This was a trying day for our animals, as they could not be watered until
+long after it was dark; a brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber,
+having retarded and impeded the carts so that they could not be got to
+the water sooner. Nor had this been possible, even then, but for the
+fortunate circumstance of our having the light of a nearly full moon. I
+had preceded the party by some miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest
+following my horse's tracks, and I had thus passed through the four miles
+of scrub, and reached the river early in the day. On returning, we found
+the party in the midst of this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even
+by moonlight, to the pond at which we had watered our horses during the
+day. Many dry hollows of indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the
+brigalow we had passed through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as
+much as possible, through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs,
+many of which we were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many
+deep impressions of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also
+the tracks of emus. Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had
+been following a kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method
+adopted by the natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which
+is, to pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they
+overtake the animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at
+length so defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk.
+According to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much
+higher above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still
+it spread into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being
+sometimes in good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be
+more sterile than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first
+indication of the river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass,
+and we had to ride two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find
+the river, having been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives.
+At the first place we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water,
+under the shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22° 10' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 36°;--
+with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVII.)
+
+6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
+an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
+
+7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along the
+river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
+and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
+channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water,
+glittered before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger
+water-fowl shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to
+the northeast, as if our river had been either breaking off in that
+direction, or met with some important tributary from that side. I
+continued to travel northwest, passing through some fine open forests.
+The character of the country seemed changed. The grass was of a different
+kind, and a refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of
+water," as Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared
+still to be continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward,
+the more I was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at
+length approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found
+this was a river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as
+the one we had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new
+tributary from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had
+been pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too
+probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
+towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
+eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
+opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
+ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
+could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction.
+Their report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take
+a ride forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W.,
+and at two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was
+found to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still
+continued northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The
+STENOCHILUS PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet
+high, and in the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E.
+HYPERICIFOLIA, but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not
+glabrous. The DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy
+fruits, clothed the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude,
+22° 2' 15" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 78°; at 4 P.M., 77°;
+at 9, 55°;--with wet bulb 49°. (LXVIII).
+
+[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
+bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
+arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis
+densifloris, floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque
+tomentosis, folliculis oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis
+glabris.--Allied to G. CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves
+are narrower, not golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely
+secund: a splendid species.]
+
+[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissimè pilosa, foliis pinnatis
+pinnis oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel
+incisis, rachi articulatâ articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis
+tetrapteris villosissimis.]
+
+8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first, northward by
+compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub, upon fine open downs
+covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil was soft and rich, the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias were strewed over these
+downs, which were very extensive, and from them I saw several rather high
+hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly over a low country to the
+northward. Supposing that the main channel would there turn round to the
+eastward, I proceeded north-west to examine the country. I soon entered a
+thick scrub of rosewood and other Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON
+NERVOSUM, previously seen (July) with rich crimson flowers, forming a
+large tree, in the dry open forest, with perfectly green spikes; also, on
+the branches of Eucalypti, a beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil
+was rich, yielding, and rather bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated
+limestone, or marble, appeared on the surface, showing that the
+improvement in the soil was owing to a change in the rocks under it.
+Again emerging on open plains, the country seemed to fall northward,
+which induced me to ride again in that direction, thinking we might meet
+with some river either coming from the N. W. or leading there. The open
+plains terminated upon a hollow full of trees, growing, as was very
+evident, on a lower surface. The hollows resembled those of brigalow
+scrub, and we soon found this tree in full possession of them. Dry
+channels, leading in various directions between N. W. and E. engaged my
+attention throughout the afternoon: indeed, they seemed interminable. At
+length, we detected some continuity in the hollows, leading towards the
+N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it, abundance of grass on the
+banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows hovering over one, raised our hopes
+that it contained water, as we also perceived a line of green vegetation
+over the margin. It was deep and full of water. Here, about 4 P. M., we
+were thus enabled to water our horses, and continue our ride
+independently of finding more water that evening. We next perceived an
+open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the country from it, we
+saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering the brigalow
+scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct, and I at length lost
+it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a direction in
+which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the mazes of
+another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions between N.
+W. and 20° N. of E., the latter being the general course. During this
+unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where the dry and
+naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had come thirty
+miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark, that I
+found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and lay
+down to pass the night.
+
+9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded again
+into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous channel,
+and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a plain.
+Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very much
+resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found the
+river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
+ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
+We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while engaged
+laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives looking at us
+from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough to one who
+stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who instantly replied to
+my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It was a brief but
+intelligible interview; no words could have been better understood on
+both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we saw these
+natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had been
+turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
+while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was telegraphing
+with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some vessel with
+water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled, and advanced
+to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also that they
+might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green bough and
+subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us. Yuranigh was
+burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed him to throw them
+about, that the natives might see that we neither eat their kangaroos nor
+emus. I found the course of the river very straight, but rather more than
+it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts of the channel, lay
+deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other places, shallow
+hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the river's
+currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a grassy
+part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we had
+reached that morning.
+
+10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the north,
+with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove as
+rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great novelty to
+us there. About 9 A.M., the sky was wholly overcast; but it finally
+cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3 P.M.,
+having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower. There I
+found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of water,
+being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined to
+explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
+the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
+visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all
+very strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them
+carried three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and
+a gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts.
+They said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
+pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr. Stephenson
+happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then beckoned to
+the party that they also should follow or go where I had gone, or leave
+that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and patiently, by
+the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my man Brown,
+being very desirous that I should return before they departed; thinking
+the old man might have given me some information about the river, which
+he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation seemed to arise between the
+old chief and the tallest man, about the clubs, during which the latter
+again came forward, and beckoned to others behind, who came close up
+also. Each carried a club under each arm, and another in each hand, and
+from the gestures made to this advanced party, by the rest of the tribe
+of young men at a distance, it appeared that this was intended to be a
+hostile movement. Brown accordingly drew out the men in line before the
+tents, with their arms in their hands, and forbade the natives to
+approach the tents. "Nothing damps the ardour of troops so much," says
+General Lloyd, "as an unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and
+these strong men stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five
+men in line, with incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our
+three dogs ran at them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better.
+They all took to their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of
+their tribe; and the only casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which
+biting at the legs of a native running away, he turned round, and hit the
+dog so cleverly with his missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill
+for months after; the native having again, with great dexterity, picked
+up his club. The whole of them then disappeared, shouting through the
+woods to their gins. It was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they
+exclaimed "Yerraman," the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of
+these animals they were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much
+dread of the bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack
+the white strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but
+another of the many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight,
+without treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition.
+That they did not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when
+detached from the body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be
+set down as a favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for
+whenever they visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I
+was absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The
+old man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
+this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
+intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
+joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below
+that junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the
+natives, and learn something of the country to the north-west.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 62°;--
+with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp, we
+travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
+main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
+connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
+this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which
+M. Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21° 6' S., and which he
+supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
+three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
+to about 30° E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21° 30' of latitude
+south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at
+all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its
+bed, moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600
+feet), that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and
+western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following
+conclusions:--
+
+1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
+westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
+
+2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
+the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
+greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
+3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25° S., the highest spinal
+range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount
+Faraday appeared to be one.
+
+I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head of
+the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
+as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
+marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
+left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
+being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
+good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
+which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
+pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
+occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
+the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
+exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
+plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
+Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves; and
+the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous among
+the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
+STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
+Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
+resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of
+LABICHEA.[***] Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P.M.,
+70°; at 9, 35°;--with wet bulb, 30°.
+
+[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
+integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
+glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
+attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty
+well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
+Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which Brown
+also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new species
+with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by Sir T.
+Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
+
+[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
+glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
+tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
+
+[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
+foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
+reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
+conformibus.]
+
+12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed themselves on
+the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads homewards, merely
+saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher point. The track
+already marked out by our party advancing, was so much easier for the
+draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they arrived at an early
+hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and travelled with ease
+three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the banks of which
+the grass was good, and where we therefore now encamped. The track of the
+large feet of the natives showed they had followed us this morning, from
+our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of burning wood they had dropped,
+showed that they had this day met us in the scrub as we returned, and had
+gone out of our way. Even to the lagoon, their track along our route was
+also plainly visible. I was now, apparently to them, at their request,
+leaving the country; and we should soon see if their purpose in visiting
+our camp was an honest one, and whether their reasonable and fair demand,
+was really all they contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 71°; at 9, 65°.
+
+13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond Camp
+LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in order to
+avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without water, and the
+thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing over fine open
+forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the river on our left
+when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the water, and distant
+only a few miles from the camp two journies back from LXVII. I was guided
+by the bearing of 10° E. of N. We found much of the grass on fire, and
+heard the natives' voices although we saw none. We crossed some patches
+of dry swamp where the clods had been very extensively turned up by the
+natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh could not form any conjecture.
+These clods were so very large and hard that we were obliged to throw
+them aside, and clear a way for the carts to pass. The whole resembled
+ground broken up by the hoe, the naked surface having been previously so
+cracked by drought as to render this upturning possible without a hoe.
+There might be about two acres in the patch we crossed, and we perceived
+at a distance, other portions of the ground in a similar state. The river
+had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked channel, with abundance of clear
+water in it, and firm accessible banks. It was still, however, enveloped
+in a narrow belt of brigalow. The shepherd having most imprudently taken
+the sheep to water when it was near sunset, lost his way in the scrub,
+and could not be found all night. Some thought he had fallen into the
+hands of the aborigines who were closely watching us; and it was obvious
+that had they got possession of our sheep, they could have annoyed us
+very seriously, or indeed, destroyed the whole party. The night was very
+dark, the sky having been overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
+noon, 61°; at 4 P.M., 60; at 9, 60.
+
+14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and high
+barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I sent
+Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
+shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 A. M. He had
+been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
+fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
+been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
+found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
+seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
+encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
+at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
+more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
+drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
+towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
+rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
+from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
+decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
+was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
+other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
+grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
+probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
+
+[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long,
+linear attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the
+other with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large
+forest trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
+
+15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we arrived
+at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course, (7° E.
+of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to cut
+off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged me
+to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
+midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
+of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
+encamped about 3 P.M., when the rain again came on, the morning having
+been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 66°; at 9, 60°;--
+with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
+country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
+river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in
+our route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
+filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
+tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-
+tree of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There
+also grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered
+MELALEUCA, resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*];
+and, in the scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-
+like shrub fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I
+intended to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We
+thus left Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at
+that of LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 65; at 4 P.M., 63°;
+at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
+utrinque acutissimis, spicâ terminali laxiusculâ rachi pilosâ, calyce
+glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis
+breviore.]
+
+17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen, the
+product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
+the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in
+heaps, or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of
+this singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered
+in any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round
+clouds driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this
+of Bunten stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been
+formerly encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from
+S. W., we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only
+on the dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and
+I could have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
+horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
+rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just
+mentioned, which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a
+laxative medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks
+were quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most
+parts covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in
+good time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
+ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
+plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
+wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
+evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 P. M., a wind
+from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+55°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P. M., 74°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the sky
+was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved off, at
+our usual hour, 7 A. M. About nine, the western portion of the sky seemed
+loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a heavy rain
+began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of clay,
+which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much delay,
+at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI., and
+there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without intermission
+until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into mud, almost
+knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded, of water
+in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which was still
+to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river, flowing
+towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; at noon,
+54°; at 4 P. M., 53°.
+
+19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
+brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the
+earth. The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I
+had thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in
+that interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I
+had ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
+gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing
+range, if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the
+parallel of 24° or 25°, the fall of waters and of the whole country was
+towards the south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so
+decidedly in the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we
+had just explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending
+from a mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet
+above the sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those
+we had seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the
+water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable
+to expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to
+the Gulf of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal
+range extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island,
+and there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward
+and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be
+sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result
+of which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the
+north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the
+country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most momentous
+interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and provisions
+almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic line before
+we could return to it), I was determined to carry the exploration so far,
+with whatever means could be spared from the party, even had it been
+necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like a native, on
+opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+45°; at noon, 63°; at 4 P. M., 63°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 44°.
+
+20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
+formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
+and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground passed
+over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every hollow, a
+great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect of relief
+from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes past 10
+P.M. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke every man in
+it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next, a blaze of
+light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass, or
+revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
+sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which
+a sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was
+such that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the
+ground, and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was
+very clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46°.
+
+21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through
+hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
+impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful for
+the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had hitherto
+confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country. We
+cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our journey
+was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to avoid the
+former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and much bad
+brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the sake of a piece
+of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most pleasant, temperate,
+and Englishlike, though we were still within the tropics. A sweet breeze
+blew from the S. W., and the degree of temperature was between 50° and
+60° of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable, I believe, of any, to the human
+frame. There was abundance of water, and young grass was daily growing
+higher; many trees were also beginning to blossom. We were retiring,
+nevertheless, RE INFECTÂ, from these tropical regions, and I was
+impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to resume my
+explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a wild carrot,
+tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it, from the
+effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea already
+mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt whatever,
+that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The GEIJERA
+PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour of its
+long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, in
+the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood was
+remarkable from a perfume like roses.
+
+22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked and
+sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
+miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
+earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp LVIII.,
+and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of good grass.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P. M., 72°; at 9, 43°;--
+with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the
+westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it. We
+thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
+berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
+to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
+was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
+rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
+rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow. We
+encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a spot
+where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being very
+bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon alter the
+case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
+splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
+seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
+be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
+exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
+was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
+spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 P. M., 75°; at 9, 44°;--with wet
+bulb, 41°.
+
+24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
+horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
+eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former
+track; and in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above
+the letters N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line
+of Capricorn. I left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret;
+the weather had favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant.
+The three last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on
+these mornings at 25°, 28°, and 29°, respectively. Many interesting trees
+and shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able
+to gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII.,
+along our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23° 31' 36" S.; and there
+again set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of
+tropical Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass
+near our route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones.
+These being of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the
+table, GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible
+to bring them up, and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood.
+This bird seemed to have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and
+flew more clumsily than others. It had three streaks of white about the
+head, assimilating it to the poultry class; and in building on the
+ground, it afforded another indication of its resemblance to our domestic
+birds. The flesh is very white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the
+most delicate of all birds. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 75°;
+at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 46°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very crooked from
+following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I set out on
+the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a straight
+line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open ground. The
+blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees, were welcome
+to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded me of the Persian
+proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the eyes." We encamped
+a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better grass than we had left
+formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted of gravel; and
+amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it consisted, I found
+basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been detected by me
+amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P.M., 77°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
+shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.; which
+spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary; but I
+could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily journies
+short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges. One of
+the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but Yuranigh, by
+chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The thermometer
+had been as low as 38°; but the birds had been kept in a box well covered
+with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of this camp, I
+found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having been first
+seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°;
+at noon, 80°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
+along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
+right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view
+of the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
+firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
+hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
+I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
+elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
+
+I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
+on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward
+the east, at an angle of about 25° with the horizon; on which side those
+slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they presented
+abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides, forming
+an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on the east
+side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay our
+former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
+eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
+camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was found in
+a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed of the
+main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the water
+before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+41°; at noon, 79; at 4 P.M., 82°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb 39°.
+
+28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the plain: a
+fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due southward
+over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until we crossed,
+for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray. Just
+beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
+LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although the
+pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a good
+supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a little dog
+of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it known to us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 49°;--
+with wet bulb, 41°.
+
+29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
+basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
+which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
+thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
+quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
+Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its
+course, with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries
+apparently larger than itself. All these lapsed into the same
+concatenated line of ponds; at one place, spreading amidst brigalow
+scrub, at another, forming one well-defined deep channel. For the
+formation of ponds, and the retention of water, in so dry a climate, we
+see here something between the ordinary character of rivers, and
+artificial works which man must construct, when population may spread
+into these regions. The fallen timber of the brigalow decays very slowly,
+and is not liable to be burnt, like most other dead wood in open forests,
+because no grass grows amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The
+accumulations of dead logs become clogged with river rack and the deposit
+of floods; to which floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the
+waters into new channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds,
+and completing the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams
+and reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water
+for a longer time than any single river channel could retain, however
+sluggish its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual
+drought, we had found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 3½
+degrees of latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to
+wheel carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very
+favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along
+this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience
+has taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as
+closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus,
+open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond which
+nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go forward
+in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again encamped
+under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting portion of white
+rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it; and that the
+avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the mountain with white
+fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered ravine below, a curious
+new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°;
+at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 82°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissimâ subcanescens,
+foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
+depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA
+Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
+plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
+
+30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
+sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward, and
+goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings before the
+arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them to a spot
+where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite to camp
+LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the plains,
+than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found so
+difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
+eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
+towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
+direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
+the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
+covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once more
+saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with Yuranigh's
+able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed in
+conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
+range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
+the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
+(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
+DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
+ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil
+we saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
+leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
+MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found also
+a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°;
+at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 62°; with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
+sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
+primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari
+subgeminis calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine
+glaberrimo.--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily
+distinguished, besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the
+veins of the leaves, which diverge from the midrib at a very acute
+instead of a right angle.]
+
+[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis,
+foliis subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello
+calyce paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carinâ multo
+brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be seen in
+an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
+
+31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
+morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
+gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
+ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
+we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up
+to its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
+drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
+slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
+and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
+gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
+ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
+CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
+a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
+grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
+strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
+been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
+TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly
+of thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
+appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just forming
+its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
+MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about four
+feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet high,
+with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the beautiful
+TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite flowers.
+
+[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
+sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
+fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
+integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
+superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
+remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
+flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and stamens.
+The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a very strong
+smell of thyme.]
+
+There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
+entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
+eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
+valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
+to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
+grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
+from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs, about
+ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
+
+1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25°. All
+prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
+was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded us
+at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
+clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar country,
+large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing above the
+placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a range to
+us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no stranger
+could have supposed these features to have been only the highest parts of
+such a broken sandstone country as that from which we had just emerged.
+The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they were nowhere level
+but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in white streaks high
+above us, when we first perceived them through the scrubs. These downs
+consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on which grew luxuriantly,
+ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the surface in general was loose,
+resembling that of a field after it had lain long in fallow. Herbs in
+great variety were just emerging from the recently watered earth, and the
+splendid morning did ample justice to the vernal scene. The charm of a
+beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and the songs of many birds
+sounded like the orchestral music before the commencement of any
+theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a place, was quite
+incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost boundless extent
+of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that of China, yet
+still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve, provided by
+nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and industry
+might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
+population.
+
+These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
+contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
+of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
+component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
+beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
+above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
+and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
+wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire. The
+ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a salsolaceous
+soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no geologist has
+yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have produced that
+rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly grew; or these
+wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red sandstone formation. One
+has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;" but this phrase
+admits of no easy application to such cases as these. Fragments of a
+ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles, apparently identical with
+those in the basin of the Darling, in some places accompany these angular
+fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a new ERIOSTEMON allied to E.
+BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby
+EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in
+the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical
+on trees. We encamped on the margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX,
+and about a mile distant from it, our draught oxen being very weak and
+leg-weary. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at
+9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
+obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus
+unifloris tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
+
+[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
+subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
+involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
+
+2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly mentioned.
+We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then made, had been
+much damaged by a flood. The little river was still running, and it was
+cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its sources, beyond
+which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in repairing our bridge,
+so that all things were got across safely. We ascended the undulating
+downs along our old track, and where many curious specimens of trees in
+flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I observed that no entire
+sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing to have been
+compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. Yuranigh brought me
+one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), which so far
+confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the coniferous character of
+Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance of other specimens, I
+am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of that description. I
+left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that the direct
+route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was rather at a
+loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the name of
+Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
+Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
+subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
+therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
+About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which had
+been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
+exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is
+to be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or
+sources are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and
+usually bare of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at
+4 P.M., 78°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest hour." The
+thermometer 31° at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of the magpie
+or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and the rich browns
+and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with its dense grey
+shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in the same state as
+when we left it. No flood had come down the channel of that river. The
+tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the old route, and
+bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is remarkable that in no
+case had they injured or defaced the letters and numerals marked on trees
+at the various camps, nor disturbed our temporary bridges. We cut our way
+through a scrub of brigalow, thus passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and
+XLVI., encamping at a short distance from the latter of these places.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at noon, 74°; at 4 P. M., 75°; at 9, 52°;
+with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the lake,
+had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a green crop
+was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our cattle.
+Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this day,
+proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to be
+left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
+river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before
+they had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
+the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on seeing
+us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
+judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
+with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
+had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
+curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
+instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian
+natives towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some
+of the uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
+behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
+themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
+stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
+them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
+trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
+make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
+still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
+crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on seeing
+us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions before us,
+and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great blaze
+there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody range beyond
+Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued until evening;
+thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous sunset, which
+poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky pinnacles, as I sat
+drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles northward of XLV.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 39°;--
+with wet bulb, 32°.
+
+5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a more
+elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy clouds of
+cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the last effort
+of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be driven much
+farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where this could
+be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged to cross.
+We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which well
+deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, were
+seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
+yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
+position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
+which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, and
+the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
+encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
+excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
+spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
+formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the purple-
+flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the pink-
+flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
+forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
+handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here first
+appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
+small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
+LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the
+foot of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with
+yellow black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree
+fifteen or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of
+ALL. CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high,
+proved to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A.
+CUNNINGHAMII, but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of
+flowers, and everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 P. M., 64°; at 9, 40°;--
+with wet bulb, 31°.
+
+[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis,
+foliolis glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis
+triangularibus glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
+
+[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
+aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
+acutis persistentibus.]
+
+[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
+elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
+subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus,
+spicis elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo
+breviore, ovario villoso.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
+STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--
+PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER
+NIVE.--ITS COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE
+VICTORIA DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO
+VARIOUS CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE
+RIVER ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST
+POINT OF THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM
+THE SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--
+ASCEND WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE
+PYRAMIDS.--NEW PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
+
+6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the horses
+for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all being
+leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during these
+two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of scenery within
+a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been assiduously
+burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This rendered the
+spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young grass was highly
+relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass remained to be set fire
+to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part of the natives, is
+usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9, 40°;--with wet bulb, 31°.
+
+8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in writing a
+despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed account of
+my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that in the
+event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now to
+accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to leave
+it at this depôt camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us, and a
+fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our intended
+ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky continued
+overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in sufficient
+quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to produce
+dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the 8th, 53°;
+at noon, 55°; at 4 P. M., 57°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°; and at
+sunrise of the 9th, 39°; at noon, 77°; at 4 P.M., 70°; at 9, 52°;--with
+wet bulb, 45°.
+
+10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
+Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant, false
+horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley, along
+our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W., following
+up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This valley led very
+straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three volcanic cones,
+which I had already intersected from various points. The other two I had
+named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three hills formed an
+obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to the north-west,
+and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land might be found to
+form an angle somewhat corresponding with the directions of the two
+shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to the westward of
+such an angle in the range, I might find what had been so long the object
+of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of Carpentaria. We
+reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my former observations as
+far as could be ascertained by the mode of measurement I employed then;
+which was by counting my horse's paces. On ascending the mountain on
+foot, I found a deep chasm still between me and the western summit, which
+was not only the highest, but the only part clear of bushes. A thick and
+very thorny scrub had already so impeded my ascent, that the best portion
+of the afternoon was gone, before I could return to the horses; and I
+resolved, therefore, to continue my ride, and to defer the ascent and
+observation of angles from the summit, until my return from the unknown
+western country, which we were about to explore; the search for water
+that night being an object of too much importance to be longer deferred.
+We, accordingly, passed on by the southward and westward of the mountain,
+following a watercourse, which led first N. W., then north, and next E.
+of N.; to where it at length joined one from the west, up which I turned,
+and continued the search for water until darkness obliged us to halt.
+During that search for water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so
+concealed and covered with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared
+from those following; and yet, strange to say, without either of us being
+in the least hurt. We encamped where there was, at least, good grass;
+but--no water.
+
+11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept, we
+found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well known
+to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after long
+custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we had
+breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
+supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
+some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
+We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
+perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
+rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
+feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were all
+visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The connections
+extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at the head of the
+Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these I was careful
+to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was higher than it,
+and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at its lowest part,
+which bore 26° W. of S., was our next object. We found the range covered
+with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs. On the crest, the
+rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade thermometer stood, at
+noon, at 30° 5' equal to 87°, of Fahrenheit; the height above the sea we
+made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we encountered a scrub of matted
+vines, which hung down like ropes, and pulled some of us off our horses,
+when it happened that any of these ropes were not observed in time in
+riding through the thicket. A very dense forest of young Callitris trees
+next impeded us, and were more formidable than even the vines. The day
+was passed in forcing our way through these various scrubs, the ground
+declining by a gentle slope only. We next found firmer soil underfoot,
+that where the Callitris scrub grew having been sandy, and we saw at
+length, with a feeling of relief, that only brigalow scrub was before us;
+we ascended gravelly hills, came upon a dry water-course, and then on a
+chain of ponds. Near one of these ponds, sate an old woman, beside a
+fire, of course, although the weather was very warm; and a large net,
+used for taking emus, hung on a brigalow bush close by. The men were
+absent, looking for food, as we partly conjectured, for little could
+Yuranigh make out of what she said, besides the names of some rivers, to
+which I could point with the hand. I was surprised to find that here, the
+name for water was "Narran," the name for it in the district of the
+Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the word for water amongst the tribes of
+the Darling is Kalli. That the "Narran" river and swamp are named from
+this language of tribes now dwelling much further northward, seems
+obvious; and, as the natives on the Darling know little of the "Narran"
+or its swamp, it may be inferred that there the migration of native
+tribes has been progressive from south to north; the highest known land
+in Australia being also to the southward of the Darling. The chain of
+ponds, according to the old woman, was named "Cùnno," and ran into the
+"Warreg" which, as she pointed, was evidently the name of the river we
+had formerly traced downwards from near Mount P. P. King. I left the
+"Cùnno," and plunged into the brigalow to the northward, thus crossing a
+slightly elevated range, where we found a little water-course falling
+N.N.W. By following this downwards, we found water in it, as twilight
+grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for the night, in latitude 25°
+S.
+
+[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
+
+12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 59°; our height then above
+the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet. Continuing to follow
+down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a chain of ponds running
+N.E., and these we traced in the contrary direction, or upwards, as far
+as seemed desirable. We struck off from that water-course, first to the
+N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep low ridge of clay
+ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We crossed that low
+ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half beyond, met another
+acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also ascended, and found
+upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree having hard spiky dry
+branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to receive the charge of
+ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which formidable array we
+nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived at the head of a
+rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we attempted in vain to
+pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga," until, seeing a flat
+on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the water-course
+again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction, and contained
+some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river, whose banks were
+thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course of this river was
+W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N., and at the
+junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we watered
+our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills, three
+quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24° 52'
+50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge
+we crossed, was 84°; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3
+P.M., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89°; the
+height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
+
+13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer stood at 38°; the height above
+the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river
+would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
+conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
+commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name; and,
+to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle. Pursuing the
+united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy plains. The air
+was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up, especially where
+the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were MORGANIA GLABRA;
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM with the aspect of a
+TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a new scabrous
+HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning by the
+natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry warm
+weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as an
+emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly imprinted
+with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the natives to
+attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the aversion of
+the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle: people
+who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they have
+thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted with
+their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
+these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old
+men and women!
+
+[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
+margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
+patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida,
+foliis oblongis planis longè ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis
+pentameris, calycibus patentim hispidis.]
+
+[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris,
+foliis alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis,
+floribus distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis,
+fructu subgloboso.]
+
+The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
+it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
+After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
+bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were obliged
+to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and laborious day.
+Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite puzzled Yuranigh, for
+we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and tracts they had set fire
+to, where trees still lay smoking.
+
+14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72° of Fahrenheit;
+the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently determined by
+Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid down my
+survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have turned towards
+the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct northerly
+course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank, whence I had
+seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a brigalow range. After
+a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand curve in the river's
+course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found water near the
+spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined, and near
+which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank covered with
+brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding traces of a
+recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at less
+than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL--I mean not
+crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and
+refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs,
+a beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal
+spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a wash
+and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one sentiment
+of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water. Like "a giant
+refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the north-west, and
+passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very gradually, during a
+ride of three miles, to where I at length could discover that the fall
+was in the other direction. At this point, I observed the barometer,
+which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet. Fahrenheit's
+thermometer stood then (5 P.M.) at 86°. The dry channel of a water-course
+had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had also guided us to
+the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the feet of three men
+in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives whose track
+Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were now going in the
+same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the smell of their
+burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning embers which had
+dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was flat, and on it the
+rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky gap (in a ridge) was
+still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set, and not a blade
+of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what was all this to
+the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With eager steps we
+followed a slight channel downwards; found that it descended more rapidly
+than the one by which we had ascended; that it also increased, and we
+were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with young grass, while
+yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected from several broad
+ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot, so opportunely and
+unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy flat by the margin
+of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group of bushes for
+shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with very heavy
+clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain.
+
+15TH SEPTEMBER.--As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards the gap,
+and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld downs
+and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision, bounded on the
+S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by higher ranges; the
+whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in which direction a
+line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to the remotest
+verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the realization of my
+long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N. W. in the heart
+of an open country extending also in that direction. Ulloa's delight at
+the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed mine on this
+occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was impressed at the moment
+have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being allowed to make such a
+discovery. From that rock, the scene was so extensive as to leave no room
+for doubt as to the course of the river, which, thus and there revealed
+to me alone, seemed like a reward direct from Heaven for perseverance,
+and as a compensation for the many sacrifices I had made, in order to
+solve the question as to the interior rivers of Tropical Australia. To an
+European, the prospect of an open country has a double charm in regions
+for the most part covered with primaeval forests, calling up pleasing
+reminiscences of the past, brighter prospects for the future--inspiring a
+sense of freedom, especially when viewed from the back of a good horse:--
+
+"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede, A sword of metal keene--All else
+to noble minds is drosse, All else on earth is meane!"  --OLD SONG.
+
+I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the
+gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse,
+which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open country.
+The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless downs
+appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on emerging
+from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much open
+plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke far in
+the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were inhabitants.
+The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly PANICUM
+LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it, SALSOLOE, and the
+ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed the river downwards,
+the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon as if interminable. This
+river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no sand in its bed, which
+consisted of firm clay, and contained deep hollows, and the beds of long
+reaches, then, however, all dry, while abundance of large UNIO shells lay
+upon the banks, and proved that the drought was not of common occurrence.
+The general course of the river I found to be about W.N.W. true. We
+continued to follow it through its windings all day, which I certainly
+should not have done, but for the sake of water, as our progress
+downwards was thus much retarded. Towards evening, Corporal Graham
+discovered water in a small tributary coming from the S.E., while
+Yuranigh found some also in the main channel, where that tributary fell
+into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this was called, and turned
+our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees in grass half dry,
+half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field to-morrow."
+The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was intense; but during
+the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under heaven's canopy
+and protection.
+
+16TH SEPTEMBER.--The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly formed
+clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to trace, as
+if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine
+regions of earth. At 7 A.M. the temperature was 63°; and (from
+observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to
+be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and plains
+covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right. Beyond it,
+we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in proportion as we
+descended with the river. Some were much broken, and appeared to present
+precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended westward from
+between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range seemed to be an
+offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the river, below the
+supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its character
+altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was, however,
+scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 P.M., at the only hole
+we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA PENDULA formed a
+belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the open plains, and
+many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the rose cockatoo and
+crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and SOLANUM amongst the
+latter. At length, we saw before us, to the westward, bold precipitous
+hills, extending also to the southward of west. A thunder storm came over
+us, and night advancing, we halted without seeing more, for that day, of
+the interesting country before us, and having only water enough for our
+own use, the product of the shower. No pond was found for the horses,
+although we had searched for one, many miles in the bed of the river.
+Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks bore testimony that
+water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it did through the
+finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen.
+
+17TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at seven this morning was 57°; our
+height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us from
+"repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of tomorrow's
+fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had found us unable
+either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to Providence, however, we
+went forward, and found a pond in the river bed, not distant more than
+two miles from where we had slept. In making a cut next through a
+brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the river, in a nearly
+westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and turned again into a
+brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good many miles, N.W.,
+through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain of dead brigalow;
+and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at length, upon open
+downs extending far to the northward. I continued to ride in that
+direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a range of
+flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most westerly
+portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us yesterday.
+They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening country was partly
+low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we were upon. But where
+was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of one appeared nearest
+to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some well-formed hollows
+on that side the downs. Towards that point I therefore shaped my course,
+and there found the river--no longer a chain of dry ponds in brigalow
+scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra trees, with open grassy banks,
+and containing long reaches full of water. White cockatoos shrieked above
+us; ducks floated, or flew about, and columns of smoke began to ascend
+from the woods before us. This was now, indeed, a river, and I lost no
+time in following it downwards. The direction was west; then north-west,
+tolerably straight. Water was abundant in its bed; the breadth was
+considerable, and the channel was well-marked by bold lofty banks. I
+remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan plains, growing here, on sand-islands
+of this river. The grass surpassed any I had ever seen in the colony in
+quality and abundance. The slow flying pelican appeared over our heads,
+and we came to a long broad reach covered with ducks, where the channel
+had all the appearance of a river of the first magnitude. The old mussle
+shells (UNIO) lay in heaps, like cart-loads, all along the banks, but
+still we saw none of the natives. Flames, however, arose from the woods
+beyond the opposite bank, at once in many directions, as if by magic, as
+we advanced. At 3 P.M. Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at
+90°. Towards evening, we saw part of the bed dry, and found it
+continuously so, as night came on. The sun had set, while I still
+anxiously explored the dry recesses of the channel in search of water,
+without much hopes of success, when a wild yell arose from the woods back
+from the channel, which assured us that water was near. Towards that
+quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon found a fine pond in a small ana-
+branch, upon which we immediately halted, and took up our abode there for
+the night. It may seem strange that so small a number could act thus
+unmolested by the native tribes, but our safety consisted chiefly in the
+rapidity of our movements, and their terror of strangers wholly unknown,
+perhaps unheard of, arriving on the backs of huge animals, or centaurs
+whose tramp they had only heard at nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"
+
+----"rustling through the boortrees comin' Wi' eerie sought!"
+
+our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or annoyance
+being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we hoped to
+sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally unexpected by
+natives. Latitude, 24° 34' 30" S.
+
+18TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the temperature of the air was 72°; the height
+of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank for
+some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing clear
+downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the highest
+clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the ranges
+intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the northward
+of the river, whose general direction to the point already fixed had been
+22° W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as far as I could
+judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the southward of the
+river also turned off, extending nearly to the southward. These two
+limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the river so as to leave it
+ample room to turn and wind on either side, amidst its accompanying
+woods, through grassy downs of great extent, obliged me to explore its
+course with closer attention. From another clear hill on these downs, to
+which I next proceeded, I thought I perceived the line of another river
+coming from ranges in the N.E., and expecting it would join that whose
+course we had thus far explored, I proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction
+over open downs towards the line of trees. I found therein a fine pond of
+water, the soil of the downs consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM
+and various SALSOLOE appeared in some parts. My horses being rather
+jaded, I halted rather early here, and laid down my journey, protracting
+also the angles I had observed of the points of distant ranges. Latitude,
+24° 27' 27" S. I found by the barometer that we were already much lower
+than the rivers Salvator and Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the
+Belyando; while we were still remote from the channel we were pursuing.
+
+19TH SEPTEMBER.--The thermometer at 7 A.M. stood at 57°. The height of
+these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has said, that a
+situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where a man should
+hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a sublime
+position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted to
+traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to
+witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a
+man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being, and
+of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable position he
+can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few wants supplied
+almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he falls in with
+water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence alone; and
+this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible, in
+journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man
+seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and
+disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely
+inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may
+venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a
+brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a perfectly
+level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward of west,
+to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible. Bushes
+of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them, we
+crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a
+concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue
+clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation;
+and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on
+which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four
+separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both
+amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I
+might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill was
+visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only downs
+and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant view,
+which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of our river
+appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we found here. In
+that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river, where, in a
+general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels. The grass
+was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate channels
+seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine clear
+downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade thermometer, 37°,
+or 99° of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the shade of a small
+clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the afternoon, three emus
+that had been feeding on the downs came inquisitively forward; curiosity,
+apparently inspiring them with more courage than even the human
+inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds, our bacon had become so
+impalatable that a change of diet was very desirable, and Graham,
+therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the quadruped inspiring more
+confidence in the bird. It was curious to witness the first meeting of
+the large indigenous bird and large exotic quadruped--such strange
+objects to each other! on the wide plains where either of them could
+
+----"overtake the south wind."
+
+One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that evening
+being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not slow in
+seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed. There my
+men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who, although unable to
+eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating emu flesh, although
+he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM, for the use of the
+white men. The channel of the river was still divided here, amongst
+brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight. Thermometer, at 6 P.M.,
+86°. Height above the sea, 758 feet.
+
+20TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 78°. Water appearing to be
+more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its general course
+in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay to the
+eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as belonging to
+another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first encountered a
+great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a rosewood scrub,
+redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we found the deep
+well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward. The bottom was
+rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river also spread into
+branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon open downs. Next
+we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with yarra trees, and
+coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles further on, we crossed
+another coming from N.E., on which, finding a good lagoon, I encamped
+early, that the men might have time to cook for themselves some of the
+emu, and that the horses might also have some sufficient rest. Latitude,
+24° 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 P.M., 86°. Height above the sea, 724
+feet.
+
+21ST SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer at 6 A.M., 63°. I found that the various
+tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater tendency
+westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward of where
+we had passed the night. Its character was the same--a concatenation of
+ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled with water,
+apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of the adjacent
+country. The course next turned considerably to the southward of west,
+while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about westward. I found an
+open plain between these, across which I travelled; until, again meeting
+the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed to turn more to the
+northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours under the shade of
+some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper, and found we were
+making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a very open country. We
+were no longer in doubt about finding water, although in the heart of
+Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon. On proceeding, we passed
+some large huts near the river, which were of a more substantial
+construction, and also on a better plan than those usually set up by the
+aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof had first been
+erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and, thereupon thin square
+portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond of water being near,
+we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the night. At 5 P.M. the
+thermometer was at 82°. Height above the sea, 707 feet.
+
+22D SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 58°. This was no sandybedded
+river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of firm
+clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much novelty,
+that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was nevertheless
+tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and carry them
+amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was curious. One
+plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were others
+resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with white
+turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS. Among the
+grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that formerly seen
+on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA PECTINATA, gathered
+in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst the grasses a
+PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly collected in the
+tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very remarkable new
+species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow panicle, and
+little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river again
+formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the wide
+open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we had
+indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely
+interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our
+journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had
+left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over
+the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with
+their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And
+so we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived
+at the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose
+impetuous floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged
+with drift matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of
+400 yards. The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal
+water lay in ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned
+with brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand
+the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down
+there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad
+a water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just
+below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort
+of a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the
+direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel.
+About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the
+broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican
+and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in
+such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them,
+as to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed
+diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces had,
+at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that,
+although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure
+alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes rose.
+Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole together
+forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two kinds of
+grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass, possessing the
+remarkable property of shooting up green from the old stalk.
+
+[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium
+plumosis, paniculâ pilosâ angustâ interruptâ ramulis inferioribus demum
+refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis
+villosis, foliis......]
+
+The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their
+extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito.
+Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus
+occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found
+with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine
+gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine
+flavoured.
+
+I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked
+navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles,
+beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside
+one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would
+have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on
+a verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El
+Dorado of Australia. At 2 P.M. thermometer 88°. Height above the sea 712
+feet.
+
+23D SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. thermometer 59°. Latitude 24° 2' S. New flowers
+perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their forms and
+structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted I could
+not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our
+provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had
+been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our little
+stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any
+privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed
+half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this
+interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack
+horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we
+threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it
+in portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The
+course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to
+stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the
+river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees
+on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river,
+but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We next
+traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay with
+gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen nowhere
+else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a river
+flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore impetuous
+floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I called it
+the Alice.
+
+As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the westward
+or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely variegated
+with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to the
+horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of this
+kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and water
+in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at 3
+P.M., 90° in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by pigeons, and
+a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous that five were
+killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite, the
+wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no means of
+preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height above the
+sea here, 826 feet.
+
+[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.]
+
+24TH SEPTEMBER.--I continued to seek the river across extensive downs, in
+many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained, apparently as if the
+decay of that species of scrub gave place to open ground. I turned now to
+the S.W., and became anxious to see the river again. At length we came
+upon a creek, which I followed down, first to the S.W. and next
+southerly, until it was time to alight, when we established our bivouac
+by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24° 3' 30" S. Thermometer, at 3
+P.M. 98°. Height above the sea, 688 feet.
+
+25TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer stood at 73°. We ought to have
+been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on for our
+stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without tracing it
+to the furthest accesible point. We still continued, therefore, to follow
+the water-course which had brought us thus far, expecting at every turn
+to find its junction with the river, whose course had obviously turned
+more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a larger tributary from
+the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took a more westerly
+direction than the minor channel which brought us to it. We thus came
+upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very numerous tribe
+of natives, who appeared to have been there very recently, as some of the
+fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and large permanent huts,
+were seen beyond that encampment; and it was plain that we had entered
+the home of a numerous tribe. I should have gladly avoided them at that
+time, had not a sight of the river been indispensable, and the course of
+the creek we were upon, the only certain guide to it. Level plains
+extended along its banks, and I had been disappointed by the appearance
+of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the banks of large lagoons. On
+approaching one of these, loud shrieks of many women and children, and
+the angry voices of men, apprised me that we had, at length, overtaken
+the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come upon them by surprise. "AYA
+MINYÀ!" was vociferated repeatedly, and was understood to mean, "What do
+you want!" (What seek ye in the land of Macgregor!) I steadily adhered to
+my new plan of tactics towards the aborigines, and took not the slightest
+notice of them, but steadily rode forward, according to my compass
+bearing. On looking back for my men, I saw one beckoning me to return. He
+had observed two natives, with spears and clubs, hide themselves behind a
+bush in the direction in which I was advancing. On my halting, they stole
+away, and, when a little further on, I perceived an old white-haired
+woman before me, on seeing whom I turned slightly to one side, that we
+might not frighten her or provoke the tribe. The whole party seemed to
+have been amusing themselves in the water during the noon-day heat, which
+was excessive; and the cool shades around the lagoon looked most
+luxuriant. Our position, on the contrary, was anything but enviable. With
+jaded horses scarcely able to lift a leg, amongst so many natives, whose
+language was incomprehensible, even to Yuranigh. I asked him whether we
+might not come to a parley with them, and see if they could understand
+him. His answer was brief; and, without turning even his head once to
+look at them:--"You go on!" which advice, quite according with my own
+notions, founded on experience, I willingly went on. Even there, in the
+heart of the interior, on a river utterly unheard of by white men, an
+iron tomahawk glittered on high in the hand of a chief, having a very
+long handle to it. The anxious care of the females to carry off their
+children seemed the most agreeable feature in the scene, and they had a
+mode of carrying them on the haunch, which was different from anything I
+had seen. Some had been digging in the mud for worms, others searching
+for freshwater muscles; and if the whole could have been witnessed
+unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst the aborigines had
+been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed a strange attitude,
+which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the right knee bent, the
+left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but grasping clubs; the left
+arm raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya, aya, minyà!" they
+continually shouted; and well might they ask what we wanted! Hoping they
+would believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two old pack-horses in
+counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire to let them know us
+more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at length, to hear their
+"Aya minyàs" grow fainter, and that we were leaving them behind. About
+five miles further south, the perfume from the liliaceous banks of the
+river was the first indication of its vicinity. We found it full 400
+yards broad, presenting its usual characteristics,--several separate
+channels and ponds of water; there, according to the barometer, the
+height above the sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at 3 P. M., in
+the shade, 99° of Fahrenheit. We watered our horses, crossed, and plunged
+into the brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a march upon the noisy
+tribe; who, by that time, probably were sending to call in their hunting
+parties, that they might follow our track. Their mode of killing a
+kangaroo may best exemplify their tactics towards strangers; whose path
+in the same manner could be followed by day, and sat down beside at
+night, to be again tracked in the morning, until the object of pursuit
+could be overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew on a rising ground
+of sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I saw the course of
+the river running nearly northward. Here, then, I turned towards the east
+to travel home by ascending the left bank, with the intention to cut off
+the great sweep which the river described, as we had found on tracing it
+down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any tributaries it might
+receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one containing a fine lagoon,
+and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most firmly objected to our
+sitting down close by the water, saying we might there be too easily
+speared by the wild natives who were then, probably, on our track; but he
+did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain adjacent, one man
+keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's ponds. Latitude, 24°
+19' 2" S.
+
+26TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A. M. the thermometer stood at 61°. My horse was
+quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's
+journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed
+through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was
+grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of
+mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,--the fragments being much
+of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting, for the
+most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six miles, we
+saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that the left
+bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to the
+northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly
+water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped;
+resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most
+thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24° 12' 37" S.
+Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 92°.
+
+27TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 68°. On laying down my work on
+paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way homewards,
+our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from us, and
+distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E.
+passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it
+should be required.
+
+It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants,
+the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the
+natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a
+few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire,
+each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the
+head reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and
+thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their
+occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no
+respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for
+washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in
+mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint that
+clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that
+would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would
+probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that
+sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do
+with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children
+of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but
+that the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the
+savages of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men
+on their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the
+naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean
+tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of
+similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only
+impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or
+however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What,
+then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to
+inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated
+man despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow.
+Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition
+of knowledge--the gratification of mind--the raptures of the poet, or the
+delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst
+civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that
+the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or
+gold as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in
+lofty minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is
+worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be
+said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my
+reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while
+protected from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how
+long these dreams under it would continue undisturbed.
+
+"The mind is its own place, and in itself Can make a heaven of hell: a
+hell of heaven!"
+
+Thermometer, at 6 P. M., 90°.
+
+28TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 63°. The horses were much
+refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our journey
+in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs, meeting no
+impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches of a
+considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this day,
+besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according to
+its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and encamped
+on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had
+previously crossed.
+
+This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range
+to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and
+so determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature,
+Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold summit
+forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained data
+sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of the
+river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges.
+The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like
+sandstone. At 6 P.M., the temperature was 81°.
+
+29TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M., the thermometer was 59°. Re-crossing the
+river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th
+September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We
+crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus identifying
+it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered with grass,
+and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange flowers, which
+grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the spot I sought,
+and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the sun having
+reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had been boiled
+before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon, in such warm
+weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have then been very
+good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had out-manoeuvred the
+natives, the weather had been so hot that, nevertheless, we could not
+"save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 P.M., 83°.
+
+30TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 67°. I found, by my map, that I
+might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of 18th
+September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the downs.
+We accordingly set out on the bearing of 5½° S. of E., and hit the spot
+exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so as to afford
+some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly, passed
+through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice crossed
+a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The water-
+course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of fine firm
+clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the
+waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of the
+country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river we
+had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from
+others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be
+rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to
+carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run.
+
+1ST OCTOBER.--Our track back across the downs, brought again into view
+the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its
+salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head of
+the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above the
+trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the
+salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first
+advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river
+this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded
+with the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a
+distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we
+at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes
+came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the
+horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our
+former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head,
+so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained
+the bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA.
+
+But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives
+could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more
+willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve
+a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into
+tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,--a river
+leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE
+SPICES GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from
+Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's providence,
+in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus affording
+access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon peopled
+by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal, and
+loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious
+sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the plants
+along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which lay
+about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen
+elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a
+half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA,
+resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr.
+Bentham.[*] We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to
+make the tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset;
+the moon was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for
+water, until we again fell in with our former track, near the place where
+we had watered our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On
+hastening to the pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days
+had dried it up, and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most
+unpleasant privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost
+vertical sun. The river must receive a great addition below this branch
+from the Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we
+had this day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on
+our left, or to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up
+the waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so
+effectually, that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus
+becoming open downs.
+
+[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus,
+phyllodiis linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis
+enervibus, glandulâ prope basin immersâ, pedunculis glaberrimis
+gracilibus racemosis capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.]
+
+2D OCTOBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59°. The
+height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I sent
+Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to contain
+water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods,
+welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the
+spot, where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our
+wants. For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all
+that was required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less
+assiduously, although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it
+under such circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost
+indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former
+bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour.
+Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts
+were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any
+of them.
+
+3D OCTOBER.--Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were again
+seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus
+afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their
+hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham
+succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped. He
+then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards us,
+when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark and
+number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of future
+reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again, into
+this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this
+bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight
+course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route
+along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us
+back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the
+figures 72.
+
+4TH OCTOBER.--We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the temperature, at
+9 A.M., was 79°,) and alighted by the pond at the junction of the Nivelle
+and Nive; near where we had passed the night of the 12th September. This
+day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so characteristic of sandy soils,
+but of which we had not observed a single specimen in the extensive
+country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree.
+
+5TH OCTOBER.--Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass before
+me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost the
+first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted,
+and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the
+same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a
+position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head
+erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The
+deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the
+fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and
+did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted
+thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him, and
+was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a charge
+of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be despatched.
+This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly, about six
+feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before known any
+Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly brought the
+attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former circuitous route
+when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our former bivouac at an
+early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds, formerly full of good
+water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I proceeded to cross the
+scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction towards Mount Pluto. But
+some magnetic influence so deranged my compass, that, on reaching the
+crest of the range, I found that mountain bore nearly east instead of N.
+E. N. I saw three of my fixed points, however, by which, with my pocket
+sextant, I could ascertain our true position, which proved to be very
+wide of my intended course. It was, like many other accidental
+frustrations of my plans in this journey, an aberration that did us good,
+for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub formerly passed through, and
+also a rocky part of the range. We next descended into a valley in which,
+after following down a dry watercourse two miles, we found a fine pond of
+water, exactly as the sun was setting. This day I had shot a curious
+bird, somewhat resembling a small turkey, in a tree. The feathers were
+black; the head was bare and red. This fowl was apparently of the
+galinaceous tribe. The flesh was delicious, and afforded a most timely
+dinner to the party. A numerous body of natives had followed our former
+track across the rocky ranges we traversed this day, as appeared by their
+foot-marks, and Yuranigh also discovered, in the same manner, that three
+natives had this morning preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw
+none of these denizens of the woods.
+
+6TH OCTOBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 48°. Height above the sea, 696
+feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the Pyramids;
+but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount Pluto, from
+which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked this
+bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively marked,
+71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series from
+LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando.
+
+The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and
+plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and
+myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced at
+the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I
+found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly passed
+the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses, the
+grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass had
+been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest
+sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above
+the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the
+mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much
+Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although
+well covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W.
+side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct
+the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides.
+The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I passed
+an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount Owen and
+Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the East, and
+some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just visible
+across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with Mount
+Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In the S.
+W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate westward, in
+abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as far as known),
+the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters. What that country
+is, was a most interesting point, which I was very reluctant to leave
+still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the westward of this trio,
+which thus seem to mark the place where the upheaving forces have most
+affected the interior structure of Australia. The temperature on Mount
+Pluto, at noon, was 90°; and the elevation above the sea, 2420 feet.
+
+On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck into
+the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although it
+was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward of Mount
+Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke in the
+direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the party left
+there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud cheers.
+All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in high
+condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some
+curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so
+as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked green
+and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most refreshing home
+both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we had almost
+constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected specimens of
+XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple INDIGOFERA
+AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel, a hairy
+shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA PULCHELLA
+Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found on the rocky ground
+near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the summits of the
+pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills, were gathered,
+AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though, almost leafless herb,
+with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles below the camp a
+species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp., was found; and
+among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to, but probably
+distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn.
+
+The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed a
+shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having much
+resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII grew
+about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was seen on the
+sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there also grew
+the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small shrub six
+feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS,
+also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only two feet
+high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet high in
+similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still abundant on the
+sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the POMAX HIRTA, a plant six
+inches high.
+
+[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis
+impunctatis brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus
+leviter revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis
+trifloris folio brevioribus.--Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE.
+Detected by Fraser on Mount Lindsay.]
+
+At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA
+formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a
+small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer
+specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA
+ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the
+SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a
+shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy
+leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its
+silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of
+twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the
+beautiful LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer
+state, near Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered
+ravines amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with
+its four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high. On
+the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved,
+glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green
+flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in
+flower). The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species
+of ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage,
+relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of
+Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that genus,
+according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which proved to
+be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the precipices[*]; a
+new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new RUTIDOSIS, a tall
+herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved GREVILLEA, with
+yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with inconspicuous
+flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of Comesperm,
+about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or downy stems; it
+was allied to C. RETUSA.[******]
+
+[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis
+subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis
+falcatoellipticis v. oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis
+minute 1-2- glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo
+longioribus, capitulis multifloris tomentosis.--Near A. CALEYI and A.
+VESTITA. Phyllodia from an inch and a half to two inches long, half an
+inch broad, resembling much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.]
+
+[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis
+cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis axillaribus
+terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem foliosam magis minusve
+congestis.]
+
+[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis
+remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis
+longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.--A widely
+distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus
+(R. HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.]
+
+[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis,
+foliis rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis
+glabris marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis
+perianthiisque sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis,
+stylis glabris, folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.]
+
+[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis
+apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque
+glandulosis.--In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below.
+The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved
+outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA.
+W. I. H.]
+
+[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus
+pubescentibus glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis
+terminalibus, bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.]
+
+On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants
+which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from
+three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a
+small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet
+high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES,
+Desf.[***]; a downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner
+truncated leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the
+mountain, grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but
+with the stature of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or
+eight feet high.[*]
+
+[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis
+sphacelatoapiculatis molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe
+attenuatis uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus
+bracteisque sericeis.]
+
+[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis
+puberula, foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-
+oblongis spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis
+pluriesve longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.]
+
+[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus
+masculis triandris.]
+
+[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa, foliis
+brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis
+tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.]
+
+[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis
+erectosubincurvis longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti
+subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis
+brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix
+basi cohaerentibus.--Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are
+five, six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA.
+It differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.]
+
+[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime
+linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris
+subtus albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis,
+ovariis semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo
+glabro.--Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently
+purple.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--ASCENT
+OF MOUNT FARADAY.--RETURN TO THE WARREGO.--A NATIVE OLD MAN.--PASS BY
+MOUNT OWEN.--THE MARANOÀ.--RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.--ITS TRIBUTARIES.--
+NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.--POSSESSION CREEK.--A HORSE KILLED BY ACCIDENT.--
+APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.--FIND ALL WELL THERE.--MANY PLANTS
+FOUND THERE.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.--RIDE TO MOUNT
+SOWERBY.--FOSSILS FOUND THERE.----THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPÔT
+CAMP.--TRACE THE MARANÒA DOWNWARDS.--OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--REQUISITE PONDS.--REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.--TRACES
+OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.--THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT ST.
+GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A DIRECT
+LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.
+
+7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.--THESE two days were devoted to the completion of my
+maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the birds seen on the
+Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I had enough to do
+in my tent, although the heat was intense.
+
+9TH OCTOBER.--Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles, to
+take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined the
+sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious
+organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my
+absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone
+strata, and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of
+sandstone underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men
+were on very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be
+disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before
+encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly
+overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the
+heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was evidently
+discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain commenced to
+fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during four hours. Such
+a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I could not be so
+vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our benefit alone, I
+felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the cavernous hill
+the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of umbelliferous
+plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of the COMESPERMA
+SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind observed in September,
+it did not grow above one foot high. A small shrub grew on the rocks, a
+pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A Cunn. (from Port Essington
+and Melville Island); but the branches, with their leaves, are more
+stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker supposes it to be a new
+species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved plant, with long
+branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which Professor de Vriese
+has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural order of Goodeniads, and
+which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*] Thermometer, meter, at sunrise,
+60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae
+quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque auriculato-
+crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne appendice
+proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes, cohaerentes.
+Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium uniovulatum; stylus
+inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in nuce solitarium.
+
+Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho,
+itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero
+geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia
+Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus
+characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum generibus
+huc usque cognitis, diversa.
+
+L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis,
+petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide
+viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia
+spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi
+bracteolatis, corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis;
+paracorollis nigrescentibus.
+
+Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in Nova-
+Hollandia subtropica.
+
+Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII
+de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est
+teres. Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 1½ cent. lata,
+petiolata, petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere ½ cent.
+longo, integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata,
+fere alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-
+lanceolatae, utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere
+10-15 cent. longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi
+communes 5-10 cent. longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores
+alterni, sessiles, bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi,
+limbis obsoletis; corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis,
+externe medio calycis instar hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis
+corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere hiantibus, interiori mediaeque
+loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera, filiformia, antherae his
+continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe.--DE VRIESE.]
+
+10TH OCTOBER.--We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in fine
+condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the
+reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and
+weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did not
+think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer
+sometimes above 100°, and therefore I was more desirous to retire from
+it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the summit
+of Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my map. Mr.
+Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects, while I
+ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above the sea.
+The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS ELATIOR,
+PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a villous
+form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow,
+closepressed leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the
+crater being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the
+summit. On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had
+arrived there at 3 P. M., the distance travelled comprising two former
+days' journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none
+had been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now
+beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its panicles
+of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four feet high,
+was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy variety of
+LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open ground; the
+ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open forest we
+found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA, a spiny-
+leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the EUPHORBIA
+EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr. Stephenson and
+I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that we only reached
+the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 75°; at 4 P.
+M., 82; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis
+linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis
+nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus
+albopubescentibus.--Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves,
+which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and
+in the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a
+broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.]
+
+[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus
+patentibus vestitis. G. B.]
+
+[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25
+obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis,
+racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus
+ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.]
+
+[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis
+segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis
+pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis
+subtuberculatis.]
+
+[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis
+fastigiatis foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris,
+capsulis globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.--Collected by Allan
+Cunningham in Dirk Hartog's island.]
+
+11TH OCTOBER.--Following the chord of the arc described by our journeys
+of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warregò, I made the
+furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing
+through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us
+here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a
+few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at
+noon, 80°; at 4 P. M. 88°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+12TH OCTOBER.--This day we also turned two former days' journeys into
+one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 P. M., the ponds at the
+intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains had
+left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our horses on
+the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of the
+HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the scales of
+the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, occurred in
+the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after we set out in
+the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley towards us,
+without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not until he
+had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran up
+amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop, when
+repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small bag on
+his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was grey but
+very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully frightened,
+which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained from him some
+information about the ultimate course of the Warrego, etc. We found water
+in one of the rocky ponds near our former encampment, but others in which
+some had formerly been found, were dry, and I was not without some doubt
+about finding water, on our way back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 42°; at noon, 87°; at 4 P. M., 96°; at 9, 78°;--with wet bulb,
+60°.
+
+13TH OCTOBER.--The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79° here, where
+in June last it had been as low as 7°. The sky had been clouded, but the
+morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in passing amongst the
+sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount Owen the day became
+very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On Mount Owen Mr.
+Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow flowers[*], and the
+SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink flowers. We took up our
+old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest of water. The ponds
+formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a deep one in the solid
+rock, containing enough for months. It was inaccessible to horses, but
+with a bucket we watered both these and the bullocks. The mercurial
+column was low, the sky became overcast, and a slight shower raised our
+hopes that at length rain might fall in sufficient quantity to relieve us
+from the difficulty about water, in returning towards Mr. Kennedy's camp.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 79°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 64°;--
+with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis
+reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo
+longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo
+brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.--Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA,
+but of the same form.]
+
+14TH OCTOBER.--During the night several smart showers fell, and at
+daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather
+heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our
+former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the
+Maranòa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the
+large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th
+June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it
+might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent
+supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 60°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P. M., 66°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb,
+48°.
+
+15TH OCTOBER.--Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was cold,
+the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The morning
+presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather being
+rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the men
+dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at first
+endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its
+course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that
+I left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former
+track. We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old
+track at a convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the
+camp of 15th June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had
+cleared up, and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing
+from S.E. On the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or
+Australian form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran
+before Mr. Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little
+bush at the foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like
+a hare, and left a similar track. It was about the size of a small
+rabbit. The death of our dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and
+drought, had been a very serious loss to us, as we found on many
+occasions like this; and where kangaroos, of apparently rare species,
+escaped from us from our having no dogs. We were, also, from want of such
+dogs, much more exposed to attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9, 57°;--
+with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+16TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze from
+east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little
+river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher ground
+grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four feet high.
+At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river beside
+that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and, early in
+the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next camp at
+Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry; but, on
+following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction with the
+Maranòa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin of water
+at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low trailing
+bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of a
+European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an entire-
+leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS BRACHIATUS,
+with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground near the
+river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the men eagerly
+asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern NICOTIANA
+SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb,
+42°. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.)
+
+17TH OCTOBER.--The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point this
+morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In crossing
+Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent natives.
+From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII, where we arrived
+early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I followed the dry
+channel down to its junction, and found the Maranòa full of water; this
+point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We had this day
+passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also groves of the
+ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed drooping, from the
+want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing purposes. We saw,
+this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry forest land; and the
+purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA SPECTABILIS formed a
+spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA LEIOCARPA, and
+CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new MYRIOGYNE[*], and a
+small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt, glaueous leaves,
+tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an orange, proved
+to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**]
+
+[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti,
+caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis
+punctatis, capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.--Very different
+from any described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.]
+
+[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis
+crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris
+dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.]
+
+It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the
+brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be described.
+If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he knows.
+
+The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in
+seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may
+be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a
+precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the
+river. One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which,
+falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much
+hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man,
+leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to
+particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been enforced
+by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32°; at noon, 78°;
+at 4 P.M., 79°; at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 45°.
+
+18TH OCTOBER.--The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and apparently
+dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the creek. This
+loss, when we were so near our depôt camp, was much to be regretted, as
+we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and horse, after an
+absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days. We saw not a
+single native about the woods or the river, and were, therefore, the more
+anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives had agreed at the depôt
+camp, now within a day's ride of us. We continued to follow our former
+track to Camp XXXI, and it may be remarked, to their credit, that the
+aborigines had not attempted to deface any of these marked trees. It
+might have occurred, even to them, that such marks were preparatory to
+the advent of more white men into their country. The fine, deep reaches
+in the river, looked still full and unfailing; and a short journey to-
+morrow would take us to the camp of the rest of the party. We this day
+found a little jasmine in flower, of which Mr. Stephenson had formerly
+collected the seeds. It was white, not more than a foot high, with
+solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful fragrance, and it grew in
+the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with pods, which the
+natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker to be the
+BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of Cunn. Here was
+picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the genus PIMELEA,
+with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and by the river we
+found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS.
+
+[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis
+sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis
+longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.]
+
+[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus
+pilis paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.]
+
+The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and a half
+had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long time
+to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained undisturbed,
+although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by savages.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 86°; at 9, 64°;--
+with wet bulb, 48°.
+
+19TH OCTOBER.--The party was early in motion along the old track. Leaving
+the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country so as to
+hit the track again within a few miles of the depôt camp. Old tracks of
+cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE, were the
+first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we see any
+thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging the
+river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even
+recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they see
+us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle.
+Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the cliffs,
+while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men heartily
+responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and was the first
+to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party were well;
+that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the aborigines had
+never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up; a storehouse had
+also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and contained lettuce,
+radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole establishment evinced the
+good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had
+collected many birds and plants, and had also been careful of the stores.
+The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown very much, and seemed
+a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse Mr. Kennedy had had
+with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my instructions to him, was
+curiously characteristic of the tact and originality of this singular
+race. On one occasion, when on being informed that natives were near, he
+had hastened to meet them, taking little Dicky with him, he found
+remaining only a female and her mother, a remarkably old woman, who had
+before concealed herself among the reeds. The daughter on his approach
+sung a beautiful song, rapidly running through the whole gammut. Then
+bowing her head, she presented the back of it to him, and placing her
+stone-tomahawk in his hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the
+tomahawk on the ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he
+prevailed on the mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was
+much more AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to
+denounce the white men;--her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if
+prophetic of the advent of another race, and the certain failure of her
+own.
+
+The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged
+parent, playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully
+protruding lip. Mr. Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the
+downward course of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point
+also, that the river passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she
+named, and even the Culgòa: she seemed to say the name of that locality
+was "Mundì." Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger
+wore, by way of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac,
+suspended by a cord from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the
+daughter, with a graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to
+the stranger, waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy
+and Dicky immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy
+Dicky away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:--"Sunday,
+26th July. Prayers were read at 11 A.M., after which, having been told by
+Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a
+native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky
+than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what
+information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I
+had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the
+natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first
+object that caught my eye was the bait--a gin, dancing before some
+admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by
+great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were
+gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him
+Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its
+general course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our
+impression was that he called it Bàlun. With respect to its course, he
+plainly said that it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the
+direction of that river and then following with his hand, the various
+windings of this branch; repeating the while some word implying 'walk,
+walk,' and ending with 'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains
+Bindàngo and Bindyègo. After this conversation he took some fat, which he
+appeared to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing
+it, and then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him,
+and (as Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men,
+who were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they
+obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite
+direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and
+disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking
+back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our
+tents, and that no white man should go to his camp."
+
+It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at
+most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the
+river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so
+long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it,
+as our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale,
+the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of
+the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August, plants
+had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had been found
+in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook. EURYBIOPSIS
+MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA; GOODENIA
+CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety of BORONIA
+BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the leaves simply
+pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new species of EURYBIA
+and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA? with the habit of
+Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose LEUCOPOGON; a
+species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was covered with
+wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA, apparently the
+same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling, but taller and
+less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed; SWAINSONA
+CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES
+DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with
+unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both
+perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM,
+with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves
+nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM,
+closely resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle
+of St. Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the
+Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****]
+A beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****]
+A new LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA
+VIRGATA (Hook. MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new
+DODONOEA in the way of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender
+flower stalks.[*********]
+
+[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis
+rigidis apice nudis, spicâ compositâ laxâ tenui villosâ, glumis pilosis,
+paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta
+ligulam villosis.]
+
+[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis
+elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis
+crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin,
+racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis
+multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis,
+ovario tomentoso.--Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten
+inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.]
+
+[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus
+radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longè
+pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.]
+
+[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis
+linearioblongis pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus
+paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris,
+antherarum calcare longiore loculum superante.--The foliage and flowers
+look at first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN
+EUPHRASIOE. The leaves are about three lines long.]
+
+[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis
+angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.--Young
+buds rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre
+having a slight tinge of purple.]
+
+[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis
+membranaceis oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus
+villosisve, calycibus subsessilibus villosis.]
+
+[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis
+patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis
+crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio
+triplo longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.]
+
+[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-
+tomentosis, foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra
+pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis
+fulvescentibus, stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis
+axillaribus unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo
+longioribus.]
+
+[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis
+elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore,
+pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis
+rotundatis.]
+
+In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS
+SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES
+LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.;
+CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with
+yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader
+haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA
+OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub
+with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of
+SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence;
+SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA;
+LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A.
+HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both
+sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river
+Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct
+from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill.
+PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf,
+herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A
+PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS;
+PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS, R.
+Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA; XEROTES
+LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, R. Br.
+GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it: exactly the same
+species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but
+smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS; BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA,
+apparently new. A new and fine species of MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved
+species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA
+CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM, with conical flower-
+heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple flowers.[******] A new
+species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******] Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 46°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb,
+47°.
+
+[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis,
+foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis
+sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis,
+corolla calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.--Near M. AUSTRALIS
+Br., but the leaves broader and flowers larger.]
+
+[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis
+rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis
+glandulosi glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato,
+antherarum calcaribus loculo brevioribus.--Foliage nearly that of P.
+RHOMBEA. Flowers much larger.]
+
+[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis
+13- 15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice
+paucifloris, legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.--A low plant with
+much the habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller
+than in S. CORONILLOEFOLIA.]
+
+[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis,
+foliis angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos
+breves solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra
+medium inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario
+parvo globoso lanato.]
+
+[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis
+ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spicâ
+conicâ, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosâ.]
+
+[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue
+dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve
+obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris
+solitariis folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-
+fido calycem 5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.--This species was
+also found by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple,
+sometimes yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable,
+monophyllous, broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the
+calyx.--W. J. H.]
+
+[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis
+ovalioblongis sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis
+pubescentibus, pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in
+pedunculo brevissimo solitariis geminisve.]
+
+20TH OCTOBER.--It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the
+blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the
+horses. I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles
+eastward of the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The
+hill consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were
+imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt wood,
+and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of wood, young
+shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire; showing the
+black scarified parts, and those left untouched or unscarified, very
+plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn, and were full
+of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed to the sun. These
+specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer parts came off in
+soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant, although they
+felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather isolated,
+but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's Pass,
+and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which forms a
+nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this hill,
+to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The
+weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount Sowerby;
+the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and amongst the
+grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO, perhaps not distinct
+from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 56°; 4
+P.M., 87°; at 9, 67°; with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+21ST OCTOBER.--I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to which I
+had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle from it on
+Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show him many of
+the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was about to lay
+down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land, extending from
+the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about twelve miles.
+On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little PTEROSTYLIS,
+quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a new
+KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious new
+form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a new
+JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short
+axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley
+after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet
+flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the
+LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a
+smallflowered species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA
+PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4, P.M., 84°; at
+9, 65° with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis,
+vaginis scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli
+laminâ ovato-lineari obtusâ canaliculatâ supra pilis (luteis) articulatis
+crinitâ.]
+
+[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve
+mucronulatis utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-
+lanceolatis acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris
+petiolo multo longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.--Flowers considerably
+smaller than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.]
+
+[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris
+margine spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spicâ cylindraceâ
+distichâ secundâ, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente,
+paleae inferioris dorso lanatae aristâ rectâ glumâ mucronatâ multinervi
+longiore.]
+
+[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus
+linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus
+subsessilibus foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus
+subtruncatis 5-dentatis, corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.]
+
+22D OCTOBER.--The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the natives,
+about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which, even on
+foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from the camp),
+and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES PEELII had,
+at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this river
+was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first
+followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy about.
+By following this down, the probability that we should find water seemed
+greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left behind
+some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water remaining,
+especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I therefore
+determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its course. We
+left the depôt camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging cliffs on
+the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The camp we left,
+namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depôt camp," will be found a
+valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first squatter coming
+this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the natives few and
+inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it very
+complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had become
+slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even, indeed,
+perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had fallen
+two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches
+lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was
+perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party,
+and encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly
+crossed by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats
+by the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became
+darkgreen not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not
+depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive
+as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with
+them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the
+grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of
+bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr.
+Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that
+the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net
+untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at
+9, 70°; with wet bulb, 56°. Height above the sea, 1185 feet (Camp 76).
+
+23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
+drays, which only took place at ½ past 11, A.M. The cattle were found to
+be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
+Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
+Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
+directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
+rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
+DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid,
+with a denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
+(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
+were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at
+noon, 91°; at 4 P. M., 93°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
+ovatiscordatis acutis argutè crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
+pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
+calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J. Backhouse
+MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive range; having
+been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane River by Fraser
+and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All. Cunningham.]
+
+[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
+Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i. p.
+147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
+
+24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered upon
+an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank of the
+river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south. The
+cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
+plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
+twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
+whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
+route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
+higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not then
+suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course was so
+favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of these
+extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered as
+they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
+open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
+downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
+remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
+camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this
+was numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
+surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they
+will not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also
+enable the land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map
+of the country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the
+afternoon, and the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a
+clear starry sky, at 9 P. M., admitted of our observations as usual.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 85°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 58°;--
+with wet bulb, 47°. Height above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.)
+
+[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
+integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
+terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
+broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
+and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20
+feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
+
+25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I had
+perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
+or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
+ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
+approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
+contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
+brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
+eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
+extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
+east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped
+after a journey of 10 1/3 miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
+south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
+with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our former
+route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
+neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
+country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at
+noon, 81°; at 4 P. M., 94°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height above
+the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
+
+26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranòa, about a mile from our
+camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its course
+throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
+these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranòa on
+our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
+pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20° E. of S.
+At length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N.
+W., full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed
+the main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of
+broad blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of
+the Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous
+ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land.
+Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the
+river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the
+grass was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered
+over the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of
+whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed of
+the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish
+(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in
+the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings,
+showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes
+continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such
+circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones,
+some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the
+nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and
+made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted
+wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or
+moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I could
+not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P. M.,
+93°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
+
+27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
+found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
+islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course,
+and contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the
+bush was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she
+had ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us
+without any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-
+forward course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the
+name of the river; to which question she replied, in his own language,
+"The name of that water is Maranòa:" thus confirming the name we had
+already understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It
+proved the accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first
+communicated to him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The
+gin appeared to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female
+wore no sort of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal
+who may have been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling
+about fourteen miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and
+encamped beside it. Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 68°; at 4 P.
+M., 95°; at 9, 77°;--wet bulb, 65°. Height above the sea, 832 feet.
+(Camp 80.)
+
+[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-
+ovatis trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-
+serratis, subtus bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet
+high. Flowers scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan
+river.]
+
+28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I most
+willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
+sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
+presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
+woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
+characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
+their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees;
+have half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like
+the willow, the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and
+I was informed by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives
+call it "Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in
+waterholes. They are too honest and fair in their fights to think of
+poisoning their weapons. The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly
+characteristic of its deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline
+resembling Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,--
+
+--"who dwelt about the very gates of death, Pale misery had worn him to
+the bones."
+
+Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 A. M., after which we had a
+cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
+for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
+dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 60°;--wet bulb, 51°.
+
+29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so much
+ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to bullocks
+or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter want
+of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country was
+open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
+reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and
+drivers, had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and
+measuring twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this
+seemed only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain
+what was beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards.
+We found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
+main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
+to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped. We
+discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
+Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and covered
+with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face being
+rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan; for
+which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling those
+made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on this
+shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
+the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
+these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed
+for war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 49°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
+
+30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the dry
+channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of our
+former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of water
+was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which was by
+following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush would
+allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while we
+proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having halted the
+small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with Yuranigh, but
+all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a part of the sandy
+bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough he thrust in, that
+there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I returned,
+determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock teams had
+also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that Drysdale,
+having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had been led to
+the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the cattle had
+been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding water the dog
+was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We had come about
+fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on the map. On doing
+this, I found we had at length attained a point from whence, in case of
+necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if no water were found
+in the country intervening, the direct distance being under forty miles.
+During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found, higher up than the
+first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then to proceed
+prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the Balonne,
+but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would oblige us to
+go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P. M., 78°;
+at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they found a dry
+sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my first ride
+from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I was myself
+engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 33°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P. M., 84°; at 9, 51°--wet bulb, 43°.
+Height above the sea, 882 feet.
+
+1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose beside
+Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded. After
+travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of inundation,
+and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for water, Yuranigh
+found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I encamped,
+resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be traversed in
+uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found rocky ridges on
+the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives in the
+woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the aspect of
+drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral country,
+traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I think this
+want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in that back
+country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance, the Cogoon.
+
+2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward, prepared
+to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water until we
+arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we were to
+traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the country
+appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel of the
+river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
+sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
+formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
+north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
+This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
+along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranòa. The
+water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line along
+the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
+country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranòa, a supply
+would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
+(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
+straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27° 31' 37" S., we
+again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 79°; at 9, 63°;
+--with wet bulb, 61°. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet.
+
+3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as I had
+determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
+Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles
+above that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through
+much open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris
+always appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length,
+plains again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them,
+after travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line,
+running north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on
+towards the main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from
+it, so that we were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a
+half, after a journey, with carts, of 26½ miles. Here occurred the only
+Epiphyte observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts
+of trees in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of
+Brown. One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long.
+The fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than
+usual, at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an
+inconspicuous weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA
+TRICHOSTACHYA was there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a
+woolly. ANDROPOGON, which appeared not to be distinct from the A.
+BOMBYCINUS. In the open forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA
+OCCIDENTALIS, and on the plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new
+CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and a creeping plant, with yellow flowers,
+since found to be a new species of GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+51°; at noon, 85°; at 4 P.M., 86°; at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height
+above the sea, 819 feet.
+
+[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
+dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
+corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a
+distinct genus.]
+
+[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
+longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
+axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido,
+laciniis lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava,
+labio superiore fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio
+ciliato; flagellis folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula
+prismatica, biloculari; seminibus marginatis compressis; flagellis
+floriferis; floribus in axilla folii ovatorotundati, auriculati,
+subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10
+cent. longa, 1½-2 cent. lata, apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum
+attenuata, subdecurrentia, utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia
+flagellorum bracteiformia, ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere
+auriculata, alterutra auricula multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum
+illarum axillis, reliquis multo minoribus neque ad normam perfectis,
+brevius pedunculatis. Affinis species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.]
+
+4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the satisfaction
+soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the majestic Balonne.
+This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames at Richmond; its
+banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and the merry notes of
+numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering appearance;
+especially to us who were again upon a route connected with home, and at
+a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen that route.
+We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey, of the lower
+Maranòa, a river which had brought us in a very straight direction back
+to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established a well
+watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in the
+more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark is
+intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranòa x. being
+marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
+cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
+felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled
+districts, and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during
+seven months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
+cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied
+it so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
+sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when I
+set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof, fly-
+proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of it,
+"LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at 4
+P.M., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°. Height above the sea, 738 feet.
+
+5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards Camp
+VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depôt had been stationed;
+the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were visible along
+our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far these
+parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
+advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this
+day, we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
+a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
+running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
+until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
+tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
+accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
+then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
+think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
+of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
+both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
+articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
+their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the
+exploring party; and of the very favourable impression we had made
+formerly on the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of
+this river. In the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the
+ripe fruit of the "Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in
+flower that we thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at
+noon, 76°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°.
+
+
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE MAPS.--
+EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS--AFTER
+SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM SENT WITH
+DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY CROSSES THE
+BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR RIVER.--
+TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET WITH.--CATTLE
+STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST
+SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF SAND.--AFTER
+SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE BARWAN.--A
+FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES NUMEROUS AFTER
+THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH
+THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--
+RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--
+A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE
+HOMEWARDS.
+
+5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of angles
+taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to the
+Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, followed by
+Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country in the direction
+of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of 1831; that was on
+the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29° 2' S., and bearing about 20° E. of
+S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" ponds, were said
+to water the intervening country, and I wished to ascertain whether they
+were favourable for the connection of our recently explored route, with
+the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, when my journey,
+undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, was accidentally
+frustrated.
+
+Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with the
+despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of the
+Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish maps
+and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from excessive heat,
+under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of the river were
+gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; FUSANUS
+ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which Yuranigh brought
+us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON MACULOSUM, was also
+in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous plant, has been determined
+by Professor De Vriese to be identical with the Swan River GOODENIA
+PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the cattle, proved to be a
+variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in February on the
+Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be the same as the
+G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R. Br., was covered
+with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy open parts of the
+forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high, with the foliage
+of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with short racemes of
+white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural order of Bixads,
+and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*] A submerged
+plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of MYRIOPHYLLUM, with
+tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub, was in
+flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit. A new
+ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a forest tree
+twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[****] A fir-leaved
+CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to five
+feet high.[*****] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the river-
+bank[******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[*******], completed the
+list of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's
+Bridge.
+
+[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+supra griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo
+longioribus, floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog.
+imbricata. ST. 5 in margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc.
+plac. 3-par. STYLUS simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus,
+verisim. carnosus.]
+
+[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
+emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
+fructibus tuberculatis.]
+
+[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque
+minute puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis
+glabris, glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-
+floris folio multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets
+are fewer and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are
+wanting.--G. B. M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste
+lanceolatis planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
+linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate
+between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
+
+[**** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
+integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
+
+[***** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
+lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
+brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
+contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
+leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
+yet ripe.]
+
+[****** M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra,
+ramis strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis,
+pedicellis plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a
+very distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836,
+but my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
+branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
+are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of M. GLABRA.
+G.B.]
+
+[******* I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis
+canescens, foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis
+mucronatis v. emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis
+folia vix superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus
+brevissimis obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--
+It has much the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not
+quite so small, and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
+
+15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than was
+expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
+Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
+horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
+project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
+settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
+north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
+within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however,
+cost the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
+direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
+magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden almost
+parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
+finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
+were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
+had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
+the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these gentlemen
+Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the new
+Governor.
+
+17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St. George's
+Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small advanced party on
+the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28° 17' 51" S. The channel was full
+of water, and thus we completed the last link wanted to form a chain of
+communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the furthest limits we had explored.
+The ground was imprinted with the hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as
+if at home. The day was one of extreme heat without any wind; the
+thermometer stood at 104° in the shade. Yet the horses drew the carts
+easily twenty-four miles and a quarter. We had passed over a country
+covered with excellent grass, consisting chiefly of plains and open
+forest, with scrubs of ACACIA PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs
+we found a new species of CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and
+in the open forest ACACIA NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS
+STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus related to SERICEUS; a new yellow
+CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species of STENOCHILUS, with willowy
+leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62°;
+at noon, 103°; at 4 P.M., 104°; at 9, 81°;--with wet bulb, 67°. Height
+above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
+
+[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis
+setaceis, foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra
+glabris subtus ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis
+oppositifoliis elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro
+brevi recto, ovulis numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--
+Very near to C. SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is
+more rigid, the leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and
+the pod (which is only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short
+stalk.]
+
+[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
+longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
+acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima
+dilatata subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--
+Leaves three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and
+clammy. Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of
+the corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This
+difference in the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing
+it into a distinct genus instead of a mere section, especially as that
+peculiarity which gave the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it
+not that the forms of the corolla are so different in different other
+species, that they will not furnish generic characters where the habit is
+similar.--G. B.]
+
+18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been above one
+mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of some
+decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot. The
+season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that between
+the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for visiting the
+tropical regions of Australia.
+
+Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
+species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
+less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
+MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
+of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in
+rich soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
+forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
+CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
+LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.M., 103°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+rigidis mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi
+in petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
+pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
+
+[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
+foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis,
+pedunculis folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis
+campanulati dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine
+puberulo.]
+
+19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
+cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and the
+channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
+of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
+and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when our
+young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my attention
+to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white woman going
+with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he could ever
+have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was amusing, as he
+pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as something curious in
+natural history, to which my attention, as he thought, would be rivetted:
+but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome one to all the party. Soon two
+comfortable stations, one on each side of the river, appeared before us;
+and the neatly dressed mother of two chubby white children stood at the
+door of one of them. I had a memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the
+other, to thank the owner for lending him a horse; and there I first
+entered again under a roof, and a most agreeable cover it did seem to me
+after living nearly a year under canvass, in houseless wilds. These were
+cattle stations, and both appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose,
+and upon a scale more substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto
+seen in squatting districts. The placing of two such stations thus near
+each other, is a good arrangement, not only affording better security
+against the depredations of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of
+solitude and loneliness such places in general present; and in the outset
+of such a life, implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of
+social union, on the solid basis of mutual protection.
+
+I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
+obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
+near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104° in
+the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.M., 104°;
+at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 63°. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28° 30' 51" S.
+
+20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably open
+forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr. Kennedy's
+track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided back by an
+experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and fell into a
+cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where we fell
+into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree at
+this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this camp,
+the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong leaves,
+and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and belongs
+to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
+HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
+BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
+cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
+beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
+flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
+a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
+not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
+carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
+"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
+Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens,
+foliis cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis
+dentatoserratis, stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus
+solitariis unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido
+laciniis acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.]
+
+[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis
+longe acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis
+lateralibus a margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris),
+umbellis pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
+attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
+
+Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and the
+sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it on
+this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any reason
+to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the beginning of
+April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and inundate the
+country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so was the rain.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 62°; at 4 P.M., 57°; at 9, 53°;--
+with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain had
+set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy day
+rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing maps
+in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
+recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
+a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
+prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
+change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
+so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that
+I endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For
+that reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous
+route of Fort Bourke.
+
+21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in Poussin's
+picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole year with
+scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so long been
+due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had fallen a
+year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much indeed; whereas
+it was now very likely to retard the return of the party. This was the
+only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded our progress;
+the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and we had still
+to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen the marks of
+floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining on my mind,
+that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out of these
+flats as soon as possible.
+
+On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
+waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
+until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
+drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
+lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
+down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations on
+the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water might
+reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a sand-
+hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected in
+good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and that
+we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by which
+the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground almost
+surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would, probably, render
+our passage out of that position difficult, even after the waters had
+subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam across this
+hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent the
+inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than sand to
+oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded in
+arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
+four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
+it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
+the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained
+above water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641
+feet, or about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to
+rise until the 2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day
+they began slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded
+from the dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began
+to present clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather
+was slow, and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their
+blossoms as soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS
+PILOSUS Benth.; a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again
+seen here; CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches,
+and very sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the
+appearance of a sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only
+on the 7th that a crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm
+for the cattle to travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity
+of quitting that camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us
+seventeen days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged
+us to tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this
+day passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until
+we arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I
+had been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
+the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
+however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
+direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
+That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
+growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A heavy
+thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I was
+under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
+journey.
+
+8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 69°. Height above the sea, 782
+feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
+direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible general
+line of communication between Sydney and the Maranòa. It seemed desirable
+that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my journey of 1831),
+some miles above the point where I had formerly reached that river; and
+thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy, falling into my old track
+about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of Mount Riddell. With this
+view, our latitude being 28° 57' 20" S., longitude 149° 11' E., I chose
+the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 23½° E. of S.), for my homeward
+guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a good firm surface, for
+sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at the bank of the
+Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through some open scrub, chiefly
+of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small grassy plains; saw one or
+two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris. An improvement was
+visible in the quality of the grass, when we came within the distance of
+about two miles from the river; and open forests or plains of richer
+soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the presence of
+the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we saw no cart
+tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle, apparently
+pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There was still a
+considerable flood in the river, although the water had been recently
+much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks. Latitude, 28°
+37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
+
+9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making preparations
+for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together, and on
+reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable place
+for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected without
+accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river at the
+same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the river than
+that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the number 87, cut
+on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want of such a mark,
+could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it should have been
+found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our stores and equipment
+were carried across in the boats. These looked well in the water; their
+trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret that I had not
+reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its channel had
+been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never were
+constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were creditable to
+the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole party was
+comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the Barwan, just
+before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had fallen several
+feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 82°.
+
+10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M. thermometer 68°. The mosquitoes were most
+tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my tent, who
+remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em, the more they
+brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the fancy," of
+which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses, although
+tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus. Some had
+broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained by Yuranigh,
+that four other strange horses were with ours, having come amongst them
+and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh- bouring
+station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the horses
+at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone forward with
+the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus upon the
+"Maäl," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of water,
+with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
+employ the boats. This channel was distant 5½ miles from where we had
+crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the yokes,
+drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very well; "RARÎ
+NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats, and the
+horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an early hour
+on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be marked 88, in
+figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29° 1' 20" S. This seemed to
+be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February, 1832, at a similar
+distance from the main river.
+
+11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 70°. We continued to travel
+homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a direct
+line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The plains
+were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new CANTHIUM, was
+in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which Sir William
+Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely differing
+from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the calyx
+(not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
+blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a
+short beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
+THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS plant,
+quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous pinnatifid
+leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with stout
+needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met with no
+impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although without reaching
+water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect to meet with any
+watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir; which latter river I
+wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to meet with roads and
+inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become rare in this
+intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state, and most
+exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed through
+several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature for the
+distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here, each
+seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble in
+water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
+broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to
+trees or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the
+plains, the blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the
+eye: the rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines,
+a genus referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a
+new POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****]
+Height above the sea, 554 feet.
+
+[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
+racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a
+SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
+species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
+structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
+slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
+
+[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis
+basi in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus
+didymis.]
+
+[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
+subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis
+strictis longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique
+ovatis lignosis glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
+
+[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
+linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
+brevioribus.]
+
+12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 67°. Passing over a similar sort
+of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first leaving the
+camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where the ground
+seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous, and cow-dung
+abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its smoke being a
+valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a little of it was
+burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious plains than any we
+had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised, with great pleasure
+and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell, distant 61 miles. This
+seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen laborious years, that had
+intervened since I had given a name to that summit. It now proved the
+accuracy of my recent survey, appearing exactly in the direction, where,
+according to my maps, I pointed my glass to look for it. Like the face of
+an old friend, which, as the Persian proverb says, "brighteneth the
+eyes," so this required clear eyes to be seen at all; even Yuranigh,
+could not at first be persuaded that it was not a cloud. This fine peak
+must always be a good landmark on these vast plains, and may yet brighten
+the eye of the traveller from India, when emerging from the level regions
+upon the Barwan. We next perceived at a distance, a cloud of dust raised
+by a numerous herd of cattle, and came upon a water-course, or branch of
+the Gwydir, called, I believe, the "Meei." As I wanted to cross the
+Gwydir, I crossed this and continued; met with another deep ditch or
+channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and, at three miles beyond that,
+another: none of these resembling the Gwydir I had formerly seen. I had
+ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to meet the carts, and
+encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of these two water-courses.
+The heavy drays were, of course, far behind. Latitude, 29° 34' 41" S.
+Height above the sea, 553 feet.
+
+13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 A.M., 70°. The drays joined us early,
+having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being Sunday, rest
+for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary. I found we
+were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we were from the
+camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in with some road,
+when we reached the country to which I had formerly led the way. At
+sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the barometer had fallen 2½
+millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight shower followed, after which
+the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must have caused much difficulty
+and delay to the party, as we were upon low levels subject to inundation.
+Height above the sea, 499 feet. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 88°.
+
+14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 76°. During the night, and at
+day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
+appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 A.M. the sun shone on
+the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a channel
+of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and still I
+doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the Gwydir,
+having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I had
+however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
+and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
+plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
+extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
+these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named,
+in former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
+having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to
+meet at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the
+year 1831. Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7
+P.M., 87°. The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints
+but few traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly,
+but nothing else. No track remained along the line which I had so many
+years before laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look
+out for a stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my
+tent, but not without some apprehension that the people he had come
+amongst so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-
+Saxon race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian
+stockman. His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat
+about the ears of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his
+hand explained what he was about,--"in search of some stray cattle." He
+had evidently never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor
+of such a name as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow
+hill," according to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney
+he seemed to require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come
+from the station of Mr.----, where he was employed as stockman. Came out
+from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his
+brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest
+of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no
+further.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and, in
+looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The lagoon
+was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank; but
+having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the master and
+some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were hospitably
+received. It was then about 2 P.M., and tea mixed with milk was set
+before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled eggs.
+Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
+sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
+much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
+eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
+Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded along
+a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led horse. Before
+we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt, night overtook
+us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness. The cart-track
+was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way without it, we were
+obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the shelter of even a tree,
+until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not above two miles off,
+but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the inmates, and asking
+them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his head, and said he had
+no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away from these "abodes of
+civilized men," to look for my old track, which had been traced along the
+base of the Nundawàr Range, where the bold outlines of Mounts Lindesay
+and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the past, amongst clouds lighted
+by beams from the rising sun. After having been long in unknown regions,
+time and distance seem of little consequence when we return to those
+previously known; and thus the whole day soon passed in looking for my
+former track. But I sought it in vain; and was glad at night to turn
+towards the banks of the Nammoy, in search of a cattle-station. Since I
+had first explored that country to which my wheel-tracks marked and led
+the way, station after station had been taken up by squatters, not by
+following any line of route, but rather according to the course of the
+river, for the sake of water; and in such cases, the beaten track from
+station to station, no matter how crooked, becomes the road. Thus it is,
+in the fortuitous occupation of Australia, that order and arrangement may
+precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS come again." I arrived about
+sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the Nammoy, where I was
+hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it, who rode eight miles in
+twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and sugar for me, and who lived
+on very friendly terms with some old natives who remembered me, and my
+first advance into that country.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M., Thermometer 75°. Height above the sea 750
+feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
+many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
+endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
+wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
+seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with my
+entire horse.
+
+The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of the
+richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
+river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
+eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
+amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
+mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
+station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
+reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
+comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
+taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
+permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
+welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
+with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
+numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
+tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
+sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
+she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
+the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me some
+days after.[**]
+
+[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
+
+[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
+medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
+trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
+served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
+surveyor.]
+
+
+
+Chapter X.
+
+MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.--PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE
+CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.--APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON
+HORSEBACK.--MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.--Of
+the aborigines.--CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.--IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR
+CIVILIZATION.--Of the Convicts.--THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.--CHARACTER OF
+THOSE OF THE PARTY.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.--THE UNFORTUNATE AND
+THE DEPRAVED.--Of the present Colony of New South Wales.--NATURAL STATE.
+--CAPABILITIES.--ITS TEMPORARY USES.--ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.--RETENTION
+OF WATER.--NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.--GROWTH OF COTTON AND
+SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.--THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.--WHEAT CROPS.--
+DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.--ROADS.--PROJECTED RAILWAYS.--
+Conclusion.--ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.--ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS.--ULTIMATE
+TENDENCY.--MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.--CO-OPERATION OF
+THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.--FINAL REPORT.--GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.--
+THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE TERRITORY.--PORT BOWEN--CAPRICORNIA.--GULF
+OF CARPENTARIA--AUSTRALINDIA.
+
+The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass Lagoon
+arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January, and the
+new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities to the
+most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent the names to
+England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought deserving of Her
+Majesty's gracious pardon.
+
+The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr.
+Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive
+(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light
+party on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and
+obtained His Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the
+river, and to apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the
+equipment of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle
+of March, with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare
+horses, with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen
+months. The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy
+was required to do.
+
+* * *
+
+Surveyor-General's Office, Sydney, 22d February, 1847.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my proposal
+for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small party to
+be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose to you a
+copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the late
+expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you
+will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions
+for your especial guidance may permit.
+
+"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains
+so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you
+leave the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the
+Balonne at St. George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and
+thence by the route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you
+will proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying
+tracing of my survey.
+
+"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my return
+route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far in
+looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the
+map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond
+Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on
+your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my
+old advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps
+(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warregò in the
+direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is
+very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can
+scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed
+as closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warregò may be
+looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th
+June.
+
+"You will next pursue the course of the Warregò upwards towards Mount
+Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide you to.
+You will follow up the Cùnno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on your right
+or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my horse-
+track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish you
+would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track from
+the head of Cùnno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively open, in
+the direction of my bivouac of 11th September.
+
+"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low,
+but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass your
+carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from
+which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but
+more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will
+have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher
+part, but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered
+valley, which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus
+far, you can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map,
+and following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he
+will no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It
+is very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the
+Victoria in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in
+which, should your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party
+is to be provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to
+your aid or assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall
+have reached the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in
+finding Camp (72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to
+follow down the watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the
+Victoria, and, as you have been instructed to take an expert native with
+you, you ought to find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting
+off large bends of the river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st
+October, you must keep by the river along my route back, and not follow
+the circuitous track which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After
+about four miles by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return
+track again crossed the outward track over the downs, so that you may
+fall into the route westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria.
+I fear you must depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings,
+for ascertaining the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th
+September. You will see by the map how generally straight my journeys
+were between these points, and how important it would be for you to know
+the situation of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out
+westward in the direction of my return route, instead of following the
+main channel throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the
+northward. Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever
+that may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map
+with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and
+determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and
+consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the same
+means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your guidance, I
+shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the relative
+distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore feet,
+either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average,
+about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing,
+you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon becomes a
+habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry about
+thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas would
+do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces, remove
+one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of bearing,
+you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of hundreds,
+ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each change of
+bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket for your
+watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this important
+purpose.
+
+"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of
+equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and
+allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You
+may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so
+obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will,
+after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure,
+adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different
+latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find
+the results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the
+variation of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or
+west, and when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with
+the rate of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude.
+You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that
+may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be
+ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of
+reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of
+the flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in
+a small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the
+determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a
+convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the
+accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view,
+without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally spread
+into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as a
+general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any
+scarcity of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more
+speedily accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you
+would cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the
+west. On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have
+particularly to caution you against remaining longer than may be
+unavoidable there, or, indeed, in any one place, in any part of your
+route, where natives may be numerous.
+
+"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it
+will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off
+angles, by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and
+when so returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the
+route and the country may be better described by you, and recognised
+afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on
+trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence
+them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus
+avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the
+Victoria.
+
+"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in
+charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your
+journey.
+
+"I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant,
+
+"T. L. MITCHELL, SURVEYOR-GENERAL.
+
+"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P. Assistant Surveyor, Sydney."
+
+OF THE ABORIGINES.
+
+There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less
+understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal
+natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity,
+yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and judgment
+to the white men composing my party. Their means of subsistence and their
+habits, are both extremely simple; but they are adjusted with admirable
+fitness to the few resources afforded by such a country, in its wild
+state. What these resources are, and how they are economised by the
+natives, can only be learnt by an extensive acquaintance with the
+interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts, bearing on this
+subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest. Fire, grass, kangaroos,
+and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on each other for existence in
+Australia; for any one of these being wanting, the others could no longer
+continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass, and form those open
+forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo; the native applies
+that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a young green
+crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable him to kill or
+take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of long grass also
+discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females and children,
+who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple process, the
+Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle as those of New
+Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which the white men
+now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the kangaroo, which
+is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony where cattle run.
+The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to produce the
+extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of existence; and
+this must work such extensive changes in Australia as never entered into
+the contemplation of the local authorities. The squatters, it is true,
+have also been obliged to burn the old grass occasionally on their runs;
+but so little has this been understood by the Imperial Government that an
+order against the burning of the grass was once sent out, on the
+representations of a traveller in the south. The omission of the annual
+periodical burning by natives, of the grass and young saplings, has
+already produced in the open forest lands nearest to Sydney, thick
+forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might gallop without
+impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos are no longer to be
+seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither are there natives
+to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there amongst the fences
+of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the white race seems
+thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation of the
+aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any adverse
+feelings these may show towards the white men, that these consequences,
+although so little considered by the intruders, must be obvious to the
+natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter on their
+territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of the
+natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of
+aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors
+of aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race
+has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency
+still more destructive.
+
+It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to
+be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel
+disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle
+or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos
+from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers;
+but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly
+because much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or
+cattle. No orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of
+these atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal
+obedience to injunctions from home, and the policy of the local
+authorities has not been influenced by less humane motives.
+
+It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for
+one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor,
+and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of
+Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth
+Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and
+resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary
+to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback.
+Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of all
+the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and quick
+ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though
+uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards
+the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the
+willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself
+before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean
+in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair,
+always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent appearance.
+He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on returning to
+Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never before seen houses,
+and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the theatre, and whatever
+else was likely to gratify his curiosity. The boy was all questions and
+observation. I was at a loss how to make these natives comfortable; or
+suitably reward their services. The new Governor kindly granted the small
+gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and Dicky became a favourite in my family.
+Both these natives loathed the idea of returning to the woods, as
+savages; and, as if captivated with the scenes of activity around them,
+both expressed a desire "to work and live like white men." This shows
+that, when treated on a footing of equality, as these had been in my
+party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to take part in the labours
+of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old freedom of the bush
+seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts them back to it.
+Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular agreement,) as
+stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and he took an
+affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in the country,
+with the intention of having him educated there with my children,
+provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I left the
+colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate an
+aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children
+should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon
+which the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly
+tried.
+
+This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much
+interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the
+married couple to another country, where the children might be educated,
+and kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of
+sending such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of
+Europe, where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the
+grape, fig, and olive, as well as the management of other productions of
+similar latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with
+their family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different
+language from those about them, they would be less open to the influences
+that interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony;
+while the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it.
+Were this experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition
+afforded by industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation,
+and inspire them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the
+white men, which, without having some such examples set before them, must
+seem to them unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a
+degraded position in the presence of the white population: a mere
+outcast, obliged to beg a little bread. In his native woods, the "noble
+savage" knows no such degrading necessity.--All there participate in, and
+have a share of, Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open
+to all. Experience here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of
+other countries has shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as
+free as Nature first made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and
+come under all the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from
+choice, unless they can do so on terms of the most perfect equality.
+Surely it behoves the nation so active in the suppression of slavery to
+consider betimes, in taking up new countries, how the aboriginal races
+can be preserved; and how the evil effects of spirituous liquors, of
+gunpowder, and of diseases more inimical to them than even slavery, may
+be counteracted.
+
+OF THE CONVICTS.
+
+The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring
+parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were
+chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had acquired
+good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on this last
+occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part chosen from
+amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst and most
+irreclaimable of their class.
+
+The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to
+follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous
+surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as
+labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to
+lay the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great
+advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on
+the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of war-
+steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and private
+enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so essential to
+an important harbour, had not the Government always possessed the means
+of cheaply constructing such a work by convict labour, and been thus able
+at any time to have entered into such competition as might have been very
+injurious to a private speculator. At Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths,
+shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work in their various avocations; all
+the shoes, for both the men and horses of the expedition, were made
+there; also one half of the carts, which proved equally good as the other
+portion, although that was made by the best maker in the colony, a
+celebrated man.
+
+The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on Cockatoo
+Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such that even the
+most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts, and seemed to
+wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the superintendent.
+The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of good behaviour in
+the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul amongst these
+prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims and pretensions,
+which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly investigated by
+Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the visiting
+magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at length
+made, after careful examination of the phrenological developments and
+police history of each; and it was not easy to find one without a
+catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office annals.
+Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by physical
+developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party from
+amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful Irishmen,
+on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old followers on
+former journeys, who had become free.
+
+This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to
+behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be supposed
+to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the convict
+character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have been made
+to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year, away from
+all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was chiefly because
+these men were placed in a position where it was so very clearly for
+their own interest to conduct themselves properly. Accordingly, the
+greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the highest
+satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring hardships,
+and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to do anything
+to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still there were
+a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party, animated by
+such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true character, nor even
+disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the achievement of their
+liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as the "flash mob." They
+spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever intent on robbing the
+stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS). They held it to be wrong
+to exert themselves at any work, if it could be avoided; and would not be
+seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation. They kept themselves
+out of sight as much as possible; neglected their arms; shot away their
+ammunition contrary to orders; and ate in secret, whatever they did kill,
+or whatever fish they caught.
+
+Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two promising
+men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of them was
+finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious that the
+men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs even, express
+sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and still
+susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they cannot
+afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence against
+the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys, with
+whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or
+HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever
+"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed and
+more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be so
+arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in
+their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the
+stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded by
+savage tribes in the interior.
+
+Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a wide
+difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen flour,
+refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my younger
+days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life." Convicts,
+in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one,
+fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was
+the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose
+principle of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose
+reformation, there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class,
+repented of their crime from the moment of conviction; those of the
+other, know no such word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing
+of hope and change;" and would eagerly avail himself of every means
+afforded him to regain the position he had lost; the other, true to his
+"order," will "die game." For the separation of the wheat from the chaff,
+a process by no means difficult, the colony of New South Wales was
+formerly well adapted. The ticket of leave granted to the deserving
+convict was one of the most perfect of reformatory indulgences; each
+individual being known to the authorities, and liable, on the least
+misconduct, to be sent to work on the public roads. The colony of New
+South Wales has been the means of restoring many of our unfortunate
+countrymen to positions in which they have shown that loyalty, industry,
+public spirit, and patriotism, are not always to be extinguished in the
+breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters and degradation. It is to be
+regretted that a more vigilant discrimination had not interposed a more
+marked line between those convicts deserving emancipation, and those
+whose services are still wanted on the roads and bridges of the colony.
+
+OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
+
+There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to render
+it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South Wales or
+Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or, at least,
+such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters' condition
+is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country without
+navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to uncertain
+seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social intercourse,
+and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man. With equal
+truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth susceptible
+of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity of man. If
+there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome savannas; if there
+are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of forming reservoirs
+of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain may fall, it is
+certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of man alone is
+wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such a clime,
+and under such a sun, that most important of elements in cultivation,
+water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to man's use than it
+is in other warm regions, where, if the general vegetation be more
+luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water for all purposes
+of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the command of art and
+industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the peculiar
+disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as would
+greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of human
+industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water would be
+found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and adjusted, by
+such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but the natural
+product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural resources
+exist, but require art and industry for their development, the field is
+open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable investment
+of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New South Wales.
+
+But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too
+much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet
+adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying
+and adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which
+deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been
+corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the
+natural fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in
+favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable,
+perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for
+that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the
+structure of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a
+small number of these might be made to retain as much of the surface
+water as might even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because
+the channels of rivers are in general confined by high banks, within
+which many, or indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into
+canals. To such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied,
+had it been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to
+work together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere
+facilities for constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill,
+and thus afford means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not
+labour now too scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in
+a manner suitable to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation.
+
+The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which
+supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well
+adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour,
+nothing could prevent these regions from being made extensively
+productive of both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to
+be ascertained whether some parts of the country may not be made as
+productive as Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of
+latitude, in the opposite hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the
+development of every branch of production derivable from industry in
+these regions.
+
+[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the
+Society of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever
+produced, I believe, in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid,
+superintendent of the Botanic garden at Sydney, from olives grown there,
+and seemed very clear and good.]
+
+Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and
+upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior quality;
+and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these districts and
+the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict labour, the
+progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and climate, and,
+as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had been much more
+advanced than it is there.
+
+The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be opened,
+have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is, therefore,
+the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible introduction
+of railways with much interest. In a country like that around Sydney,
+where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by roads in
+order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the value and
+importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and calculations have
+been made to show that a railway between Sydney and the southern
+districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along that line.
+The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open undulating
+country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly growing into
+importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway, between that
+town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive tracts of
+valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a sort of
+centre.
+
+On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best
+lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has,
+of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the
+rural districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals
+who had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the
+assistance of settlers in the country.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years ago,
+a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The location of
+settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms, then much in
+arrear, and the division of the territory into counties, hundreds, and
+parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to settlers, altogether
+rendered necessary a general survey of the colony, which work I commenced
+in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal Instructions, sent to the
+colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827 and 1837 was the most
+prosperous in the history of the colony of New South Wales, when convicts
+made good roads, farms were measured up, and the country was surveyed and
+divided into countries. Colonization extended rapidly to the shores of
+the southern ocean, and Australia Felix was made known to the British
+public.
+
+The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the
+direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent,
+however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate
+tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole intervening
+country. My plans of exploration have been governed by these views and
+objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was intended to complete
+the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One led across the Blue
+mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far as the land seemed
+worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia Felix and the southern
+coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to the northern shores
+at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria,--from which I
+trust that by this time my assistant Mr. Kennedy will have returned to
+Sydney.
+
+Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a duty[*],
+I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan which
+must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled me to
+bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years, and in
+the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at the
+command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British
+Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the
+benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that
+this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the
+petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly
+at the expense of the colony of New South Wales.
+
+[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.]
+
+It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words, to
+point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be available
+for the economical extension of that colonisation which the expansive
+energies of this great nation seem to require. New South Wales may be
+benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional market on
+the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was
+necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most
+eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast. It is now
+ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements from the
+open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25°
+south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table
+Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;--a country but
+lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy access
+to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the intervention
+of any such formidable barrier between that interior open country and the
+coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony. Precisely on that
+part of the coast, to which the united channels of the water lead, a
+harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent naval officers.
+These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to define one
+situation more favourable than any other that might be found along that
+coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide almost equally
+the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I allude to Port
+Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has been (I believe)
+called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of the coast, at
+the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to steam navigation.
+The occupation of the fine country on the rivers Victoria, Salvator and
+Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for supplies; and on the
+occupation of that back-country must again, in a great measure, depend
+the establishment of a direct line of communication between Sydney and
+the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of
+route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon
+require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a
+commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which might, by
+degrees, become an important town; where horses might be shipped and
+conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards of Torres
+Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible description by
+Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's Island, being both
+higher than the main land, might be connected with it, by some permanent
+work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and shelter and anchorage
+for other ships. According to the interesting narrative of Captain
+Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and convict labour might there
+be very usefully employed upon such works. The head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian Ocean nearest to Sydney, has
+appeared of more importance to the colonists, since steam navigation
+became regular between England and the Indian archipelago. Then it became
+more desirable for the colonists to know the nature of the interior
+country between their capital and that northern coast. The interior has
+been found very open and accessible; the fine country at the head of the
+Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus divide the whole distance into
+two equal parts, each of these not much exceeding the distance between
+Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia Felix; between which places mail-
+carriages now run twice a week. Thus, while, by the extension of
+geographical research, the proper fields for colonization are laid open
+for selection, and prepared for timely arrangements on the part of the
+Imperial Government; the colonists of New South Wales have promoted the
+general interests of their fellow subjects at home, by the developement
+of the resources of the territory around them.
+
+He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed the
+earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two
+elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the
+East Coast range--the one affording the nearest access to an important
+sea, the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with
+deference to Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through
+the Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive
+names on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the
+country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25° South, where nature
+has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia, the
+country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian
+archipelago; which two regions may be made conterminous according to
+natural limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales. No.
+30/1252. Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.
+
+Sir,
+
+I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to
+inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been
+pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the
+office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of
+the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their
+duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who,
+with the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all
+arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant,
+
+ALEX. M'LEAY.
+
+To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire, Surveyor-General.
+
+* * * * *
+
+A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING
+JOURNEY.
+
+THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW.
+
+[numerals refer to page numbers in the book]
+
+FERNS.
+
+Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212. ----assimile, 204. 212. Nothochlaena
+distans, 212. Grammitis rutaefolia, 212. Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212.
+Doodia caudata, 212. Platyzoma microphyllum, 236.
+
+GRASSES.
+
+Aristida calycina, 33. Arundo Phragmites, 124. * Anthistiria membranacea,
+LINDL. 88. ----australis PASSIM. ----sp. 97. Andropogon sericeus, 62.
+----bombycinus, 378. ----sp. 117. Bromus australis, 61. * Chloris
+selerantha, LINDL. 31. ----acicularis LINDL. 33. Dactyloctenium radulans,
+88. Danthonia pectinata, 319. ----* triticoides LINDL. 365. Erianthus,
+fulvo aff. 62. Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349. Lappago biflora, 364.
+Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33. Perotis rara, 139. Panicum laevinode 60. AND
+PASSIM. Pappophorum gracile, 319. ----* avenaceum LINDL. 320. ----*
+virens, LINDL. 360. ----* flavescens, LINDL. 34. * Stipa scabra, LINDL.
+31. * Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187. Triodia pungens, 177. 340.
+Triraphis mollis, 88.
+
+SEDGES.
+
+Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124. ----sp. 120. Kyllinga monocephala, 100.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS.
+
+Damasonium ovalifolium, 31. Xerotes laxa, 361. ----leucocephala, 198.
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378. * Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3
+Commelina undulata, 347. Thysanotus elatior, 347. Tricoryne elatior, 387.
+Laxmannia gracilis, 365. Dianella rara, 366. ----strumosa, 341.
+
+GYMNOGENS. Zamia, 209. Callitris sp. n. 187. ----glauca, 298. ----
+pyramidalis, 93.
+
+SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE).
+
+* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371. ----* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124.
+Beyeria, sp. n. 390. Bertya oleaefolia, 290. Euphorbia hypericifolia?
+265. ----* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348. Hylococcus sericeus, 389. *
+Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342. Phyllanthus simplex? 106.
+
+CUCURBITS.
+
+Cucumis pubescens, 110.
+
+BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE).
+
+* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383.
+
+FRANKENIADS.
+
+* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305. ----* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305.
+
+CAPPARIDS.
+
+* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257. ----* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220. ----
+lasiantha, 102. ----Mitchellii, 36. Cleome flava, 127.
+
+STERCULIADS.
+
+Brachychiton populneum, 355. * Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155.
+
+BYTTNEBIADS.
+
+* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+MALLOWWORTS.
+
+Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260. ----* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363. Fugosia digitata?
+387. ----sp. 64. Malva ovata, 397. * Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368. ----
+pisiformis, 362. ----* virgata, HOOKER, 361. ----filiformis, A. CUNN.
+361. ----tubulosa, CUNN. 390. ----sp. n. 103.
+
+LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE).
+
+Grewia Richardiana, 383.
+
+MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE).
+
+* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342.
+
+SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE).
+
+Thouinia australis, 390. * Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273. ----* filifolia,
+HOOKER, 241. ----* hirtella, 191. ----* mollis, LINDL. 212. ----*
+peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361. ----* pubescens, LINDL. 342. ----*
+tenuifolia, LINDL. 248. ----* trigona, LINDL. 236. ----* triangularis,
+219. ----* vestita, HOOKER, 265.
+
+DILLENIADS.
+
+Pleurandra ericifolia, 362. ----* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363. Hibbertia
+canescens, 339.
+
+CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE).
+
+Clematis stenophylla, 368. Ranunculus plebeius, 362. ----sessiliflorus,
+361.
+
+PITTOSPORADS.
+
+* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224. * Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97. ----
+lanceolatum, 272.
+
+EPACRIDS.
+
+Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226.
+
+CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE).
+
+* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353.
+
+RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE).
+
+* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225. ----* eriantha, LINDL. 298. * Eriostemon
+rhombeum, LINDL. 293. * Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102. ----* latifolia,
+LINDL. 236. ----* pendula, LINDL. 251. Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398. *
+Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347. * Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199. *
+Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339.
+
+CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE).
+
+Geranium parviflorum? 362. Erodium littoreum? 360.
+
+PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE).
+
+* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148. ----* pusilla, LINDL. 360.
+
+BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE).
+
+Polygonum acre, 149. ----junceum, 85.
+
+NYCTAGOS.
+
+Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362.
+
+AMARANTHS.
+
+Amaranthus undulatus, 102. Alternanthera nodiflora, 35. ----sp. 341.
+Nyssanthes? 360. * Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45. ----Janatum, 33.
+88. ----* conicum, LINDL. 363. ----fusiforme, 383. ----alopecuroideum,
+88. 91.
+
+CHENOPODS.
+
+Ambrina carinata, 127. * Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64. ----
+elaeagnoides, 29 Atriplex semibaccata, 23. * Chenopodium auricomum,
+LINDL. 94. Enchylaena tomentosa, 102. Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67. ----*
+thymifolia, LINDL. 56. ----* lanosa, LINDL. 88. ----* villosa, LINDL. 91.
+Rhagodia parabolica, 53. Salsola australis, 24, etc. Seleroaena uniflora,
+72. * Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239.
+
+FICOIDS.
+
+Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315.
+
+DAPHNADS.
+
+Pimelea linifolia? 340. ----* trichostachya, LINDL. 355. ----colorans,
+362. Exocarpus aphylla, 118. ----spartea, 135.
+
+PROTEADS.
+
+* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342. * Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER,
+265. ----* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341. ----floribunda, 212. ----*
+longistyla, HOOKER, 343. ----sp. 276. * Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397.
+----* purpurea, HOOKER, 348.
+
+DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE).
+
+Cassytha pubescens, 362.
+
+LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.
+
+Acacia conferta, 174. 289. ----Cunninghamii, 204. ----doratoxylon, 289.
+----delibrata, 258. ----decora, 359. var. 223. ----* excelsa, BENTH. 225.
+----Farnesiana, 256. ----falcata, 221. Acacia holosericea, 256. ----
+Simsii, 256. ----leucadendron, 258. ----* longespicata, BENTH. 298. ----
+ixiophylla, 204. ----leptoclada, var. 95. ----* macradenia, BENTH. 360.
+----neriifolia, 386. ----pendula, PASSIM. ----pennifolia, 361. ----
+podalyriifolia, 221. ----* pinifolia, BENTH. 342. ----stenophylla, 81.
+----spectabilis, 353. ----salicina, 56. ----triptera, 291. ----* varians,
+BENTH. 132. ----* Victoriae, BENTH. 333. ----* uncifera, BENTH. 341. ----
+viscidula, 340. * Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236. * Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH.
+290. ----rhombifolia, 294. * Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384. ----*
+coronilloides, CUNN. 384. ----* zygophylla, BENTH. 288. ----sophera, 390.
+----occidentalis, 378. ----heteroloba, 251. * Crotalaria dissitiflora,
+BENTH. 386. ----* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120. * Cyclogyne swainsonioides,
+BENTH. 397. * Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363. * Erythrina vespertilio,
+BENTH. 218. * Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348. Hardenbergia monophylla,
+236. Hovea lanceolata, 212. ----* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289. * Indigofera
+brevidens, BENTH. 385. ----hirsuta, 122. * Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH.
+258. ----scoparia, 339. * Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365. Labichea
+rupestris, BENTH. 342. * Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273. * Leptocyamus
+latifolius, BENTH. 361. * Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62. ----australis,
+var. 348. Neptunia gracilis, 362. * Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131.
+Sesbania aculeata? 106. * Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363. Vigna, an
+capensis? 339. ----* lanceolata, BENTH. 350. ----* suberecta, BENTH. 388.
+
+ROSEWORTS.
+
+Rubus parvifolius, 351.
+
+LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE).
+
+Lythrum Salicaria, 62.
+
+RHAMNADS.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, 201. Cryptandra propinqua, 223. * Ventilago
+viminalis, HOOKER, 369.
+
+SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE).
+
+* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387. * Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+STACKHOUSIADS.
+
+Stackhousia muricata, 362.
+
+DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE).
+
+Carissa ovata, 393. Tabernaemontana, sp. 341. * Doobàh, 85.
+
+LOGANIADS.
+
+* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+GENTIANWORTS.
+
+Erythraea australis, 366.
+
+OLIVEWORTS.
+
+Notclaea punctata, 352.
+
+NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE).
+
+Nicotiana suaveolens, 64. Solanum ellipticum, 215. ----furfuraceum, 212.
+----biflorum, 362. ----violaceum, 365. ----sp. 85.
+
+BINDWEEDS.
+
+* Polymeria longifolia, 398. Convolvulus erubescens, 353. Evolvulus,
+sericeo aff., 386. ----linifolius, 339.
+
+LEADWORTS.
+
+Plumbago zeylanica, 219.
+
+RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE).
+
+Plantago varia, 352.
+
+JASMINWORTS.
+
+* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355. ----lineare, 94. ----* Mitchellii,
+LINDL. 365.
+
+EHRETIADS.
+
+Halgania, sp. 24.
+
+BORAGEWORTS.
+
+* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258.
+
+BRUNONIADS.
+
+Brunonia sericea, 341. ----simplex? 360. ----* simplex, LINDL. 82.
+
+LABIATES.
+
+Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347. * Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362.
+Moschosma polystachya, 137. Plectranthus parviflorus, 347. * Prostanthera
+odoratissima, BENTH., 291. ----* ringens, BENTH., 363. ----*
+euphrasioides, BENTH., 360. Teucrium recemosum, 31. ----argutum, 198.
+Salvia plebeia, 366.
+
+VERBENES.
+
+Chloanthes stoechadis, 298. Vitex, sp. n., 212.
+
+MYOPORADS.
+
+* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31. * Myoporum dulce, 253. ----
+Cunninghamii, 214. * Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273. ----*
+salicinus, BENTH., 251. ----* curvipes, BENTH., 221. ----*
+bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386.
+
+BIGNONIADS.
+
+Tecoma Oxleyi, 291.
+
+ACANTHADS.
+
+Justicia media, 31. 89. 361. ----ascendens, 97. Ruellia australis, 353.
+
+FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE).
+
+Morgania floribunda, 62. 384. Veronica plebeia, 360.
+
+GOODENIADS.
+
+Dampiera adpressa, 339. Goodenia pulchella, 339. ----* flagellifera, DE
+VRIESE, 378. ----coronopifolia, 359. ----geniculata, 72. * Linschotenia
+bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345. * Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258.
+
+COMPOSITES.
+
+Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62. * Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75. ----
+cuneifolia, 28. * Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378. * Eurybia
+subspicata, HOOKER, 293. Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359. Erechthites arguta,
+225. * Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62. * Flaveria australasica, HOOKER,
+118. Helichrysum bracteatum, 79. ----* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83. ----
+semipapposum, 389. ----odorum? 362. Helipteres anthemoides, 349. ----*
+glutinosa, HOOK., 361. Minuria heterophylla, 64. Monenteles redolens,
+263. * Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353. Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347.
+Podolepis acuminata? 289. ----rugata? 362. ----longipedunculata, 362.
+Pycnosorus globosus, 353. Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78. ----*
+arachnoidea, HOOK., 341. Senecio carnosulus? 360. ----Cunninghami, 45.
+----brachylaenus, 62. Sphaeranthus hirtus 212.
+
+HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA).
+
+* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306. ----* glauca, LINDL., 91. * Myriophyllum
+verrucosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE).
+
+Angophora lanceolata, 81. * Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235. Eucalyptus
+sideroxylon, 339. ----* acuminatus, HOOK. 390. Eucalyptus pulverulento
+aff. 91. ----* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235. ----* citriodorus, HOOKER,
+235. ----* populifolius, HOOKER, 204. ----bicolor, 390. ----* viminalis,
+HOOKER, 157. * Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298. * Melaleuca
+trichostachya, LINDL. 277. ----* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262. Schidiomyrtus
+tenellus, 340. * Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198.
+
+CINCHONADS.
+
+Canthium sp. 386. ----* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397. Pomax hirta, 340.
+
+STELLATES.
+
+Asperula? 360.
+
+UMBELLIFERS.
+
+Actinotus Helianthi, 345. Daucus brachiatus, 235. Didiscus pilosus, 593.
+
+SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE).
+
+Fusanus acuminatus, 105. Santalum oblongatum 101.
+
+LORANTHS.
+
+* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102. ----* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101.
+----* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224. ----* nutans, CUNN. 158.
+
+[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-
+long) on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).]
+
+LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the
+Interior of Tropical Australia In Search of a Route from Sydney to the
+Gulf of Carpentaria (1848) by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855) Surveyor-General of New South Wales, by Thomas Mitchell
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ***
+
+***** This file should be named 9943-8.txt or 9943-8.zip *****
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia, by Thomas Mitchell</title>
+<meta HTTP-EQUIV="content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
+<style type="text/css">
+<!--
+body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify}
+h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center}
+blockquote {font-size: 97%}
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior
+of Tropical Australia In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria
+(1848) by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855) 
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales, by Thomas Mitchell
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+       In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
+       by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+       Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+Author: Thomas Mitchell
+
+Release Date: August 28, 2004 [EBook #9943]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<h2>Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia,<br>
+by Thomas Mitchell</h2>
+
+<center>
+<b>This ebook produced by Col Choat</b>
+</center>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr>
+<a name="home"></a>
+
+<h2>Journal of an Expedition<br>
+    into the Interior of Tropical Australia</h2>
+
+<h3>In Search of a Route from Sydney<br>
+    to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)</h3>
+
+<h4>by</h4>
+
+<h3>Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)<br>
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales</h3>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h5>Originally published in 1848</h5>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-1a"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-1a.jpg"></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+</center>
+
+<h5>TO<br>
+THE HONOURABLE<br>
+THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS<br>
+OF THE<br>
+LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW  SOUTH WALES,<br>
+THIS JOURNAL<br>
+OF<br>
+AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,<br>
+PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,<br>
+AND<br>
+UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,<br>
+IS<br>
+DEDICATED<br>
+BY<br>
+THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,<br>
+HUMBLE SERVANT,<br>
+T. L. MITCHELL</h5>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>PREFACE.</h3>
+
+<p>"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the most
+attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of Australia. There the
+philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the poet for original studies and
+ideas; the naturalist for additional knowledge; and the historian might begin at
+a beginning. The traveller there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples,
+or towers; but he is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of
+healthful progress and hope;&mdash;of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
+Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions still
+unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now that the
+rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most deserving people
+on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved by the Almighty for
+their use.</p>
+
+<p>In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early period
+between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known to the
+ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Communemque priùs, ceu lumina solis et auras,
+Cautus humum longo signavit limite mensor."<br>
+[* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]</blockquote>
+
+<p>The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
+arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
+internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and the
+north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the last twenty
+years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to bring under the notice
+of men of science some of the earth's productions hitherto unknown. He cannot
+sufficiently express his sense of obligation in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir
+William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and Professor De Vriese, for supplying the
+botanical matter and notes contained in this volume, and thus contributing to
+the general stock of human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that
+during the long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
+register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst of his
+important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison of minute
+details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
+
+<p>The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in its
+accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of latitude;
+trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever heights were
+available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route. This route was
+connected, at its commencement and termination, with the trigonometrical
+survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a survey extending
+two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of his intersections with
+that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could not but be very satisfactory
+to the author.
+
+<p>The geological specimens collected during this journey have been deposited
+in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on the maps by the
+numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be available to
+geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science, the fossils now
+brought from these remote regions will be accessible at any future time, and
+something known of the geology as well as of the geography of the interior. As
+Professor Forbes most readily undertook to describe the freshwater shells after
+the work had passed through the press, that portion of the collection also has
+thus been brought under the notice of geologists.
+
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter01">CHAPTER I.</a></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+
+<a href="#trop-02">GENERAL MAP</a><br><br>
+
+Objects of the expedition.&mdash;Unexpected delay&mdash;by reference to Lord
+Stanley.&mdash;List of the Party.&mdash;Departure from Buree.&mdash;Sheep stations.&mdash;Scattered
+population.&mdash;Passage through Hervey's Range.&mdash;Encroachment of sheep on cattle
+runs.&mdash;A tea-totaller.&mdash;Meet an old acquaintance.&mdash;Sulphureous
+springs.&mdash;Currandong&mdash;Necessity for damming up the Bogan. Leave Bultje's
+country.&mdash;Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.&mdash;Line between the squatters and
+the wild natives.&mdash;Velocity of the Bogan.&mdash;Supply of young bullocks.&mdash;Richard
+Cunningham&mdash;Young cattle troublesome.&mdash;A night without water.&mdash;Distress from
+heat and thirst.&mdash;Excessive heat.&mdash;Reunion of the party.&mdash;Melancholy fate of
+the Bogan tribe.&mdash;Interesting plants discovered.&mdash;Encampment at Mudaà.&mdash;Carry
+water forward.&mdash;Arrive at Daròbal.&mdash;Nyingan.&mdash;Water at Canbelègo.&mdash;Discovery
+of a lagoon.&mdash;Encamp near Canbelègo. Explore the Bogan in search of
+water.&mdash;Long ride.&mdash;Quit the Bogan.&mdash;Party attacked with ophthalmia</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter02">CHAPTER II.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+
+<a href="#trop-05">MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE</a><br><br>
+
+Move to the ponds of Cannonbà.&mdash;Set up our bivouac.&mdash;Hot wind.&mdash;Piper's
+intention to quit the party.&mdash;Piper sent to Bathurst.&mdash;Change of weather.&mdash;A
+day of rain.&mdash;Mr. Kennedy returns.&mdash;Salt made from the salt plant.&mdash;Reconnoitre
+Duck Creek.&mdash;Ophthalmia still troublesome.&mdash;Approach of a flood announced.&mdash;It
+arrives in clear moonlight.&mdash;Marshes of the Macquarie.&mdash;Difficulty of watering
+cattle.&mdash;A new guide.&mdash;Cattle astray.&mdash;Yulliyally.&mdash;Docility of the
+Aborigines.&mdash;Water insufficient for cattle.&mdash;Want of water.&mdash;Small ponds
+destroyed by cattle.&mdash;At last find abundance.&mdash;Aboriginal preferable to modern
+names.&mdash;Cattle again astray&mdash;and delay the journey.&mdash;Junction of the Macquarie
+and Bàrwan.&mdash;The Darling as at present, and formerly.&mdash;Admirable distribution of
+water. The ford at Wyàbry.&mdash;The party crosses the Darling</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter03">CHAPTER III.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-07">MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,&mdash;SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.</a><br><br>
+
+Plains and low hills.&mdash;The Caràwy ponds.&mdash;Delayed by weak cattle.&mdash;The
+Narran.&mdash;Arrived at&mdash;encamp by:&mdash;Narran swamp.&mdash;A bridge required.&mdash;During the
+delay of drays take a ride forward.&mdash;Rich pastures on the Narran.&mdash;New
+plants.&mdash;Arrival of drays.&mdash;Bridge laid down for their passage.&mdash;The party
+fords the Narran.&mdash;Advances but slowly.&mdash;Low hills examined.&mdash;Good grassy
+country.&mdash;Food of the natives.&mdash;Rising ground west of the river.&mdash;Ride
+up.&mdash;Abodes and food of natives.&mdash;Rich grass.&mdash;Parley with a native.&mdash;Gravelly
+ridges.&mdash;Two natives conduct us to the river.&mdash;Approach the assembled
+natives.&mdash;Interview with the tribes.&mdash;Cordial reception.&mdash;Cross the
+Balonne.&mdash;Reach the Culgòa.&mdash;Cross that river.&mdash;Route beyond.&mdash;The Upper
+Balonne.&mdash;Explore its course.&mdash;Numerals cut on trees.&mdash;A native scamp.&mdash;Fine
+country.&mdash;Splendid reaches of the river&mdash;Lagoons near it.&mdash;Lake
+Parachute.&mdash;Seek a position&mdash;for a depôt camp.&mdash;Ride to the
+north-west.&mdash;Character of the country.&mdash;Search for water. Uncommon
+birds.&mdash;Return to the camp.&mdash;New Acacia</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter04">CHAPTER IV.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-10">MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANÒA&mdash;SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.</a><br><br>
+
+Advance with a light party.&mdash;Fine river scenery.&mdash;Junction of rivers.&mdash;Trace
+one up, then cross to the other.&mdash;Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore it.&mdash;Fine
+country for grazing.&mdash;Turanimga lagoon.&mdash;Trace up a small tributary.&mdash;Mountains
+discovered.&mdash;Camp visited by three natives.&mdash;"Cogoon" the name of
+tributary.&mdash;Charms of the Australian climate.&mdash;Mount Minute.&mdash;Extreme
+cold.&mdash;Traces of high floods in the Cnogoa.&mdash;-Mount Inviting.&mdash;Mount
+Abundance.&mdash;Ascend that mountain.&mdash;Fitzroy Downs.&mdash;The Bottle Tree, or
+DELABECHEA.&mdash;Frosty Creek.&mdash;Travel due north over open downs.&mdash;Advantages of
+mountains.&mdash;Ascend one.&mdash;Mount Bingo.&mdash;Thenod Tagando tribe.&mdash;The party
+advances to the Amby&mdash;followed by the tribe.&mdash;How we got rid of them.&mdash;Enter
+the country through the pass.&mdash;Find one pond.&mdash;A large river
+discovered.&mdash;Position taken up on its banks.&mdash;There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.&mdash;Explore
+to the north-west.&mdash;Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.&mdash;Interior
+country visited.&mdash;View of the western interior.&mdash;Its character.&mdash;Determine to
+trace the river upwards.&mdash;Ascend Mount Kennedy.&mdash;Extensive prospect.&mdash;Native
+visit during my absence.&mdash;Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.&mdash;The Tagando tribe
+again.&mdash;Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.&mdash;Prepare to advance again with a light
+party.&mdash;Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter05">CHAPTER V.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-13">MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE, AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.</a><br><br>
+
+My departure.&mdash;A team of bullocks sent back for.&mdash;Good grassy country.&mdash;Ride
+north-west during rain.&mdash;Hostile natives menace our camp.&mdash;The party crosses
+Possession Creek.&mdash;A small river found.&mdash;Another ride to the north-west.&mdash;Banks
+of the little river.&mdash;Mount Owen seen.&mdash;Travel towards it.&mdash;Flank movement to
+the Maranòa for water.&mdash;None found in its bed.&mdash;View from Mount Owen.&mdash;Names of
+localities on the map.&mdash;Scarcity of water impedes our progress.&mdash;Water found
+in rocky gullies.&mdash;Excursion northward.&mdash;Mount Aquarius.&mdash;View from northern
+summit of Mount Owen.&mdash;Progress through a broken country.&mdash;Night without
+water.&mdash;Another route explored amongst the gullies.&mdash;Plants found near Mount
+Owen.&mdash;Route for the advance of the carts.&mdash;View of mountains&mdash;from Mount
+P. P. King.&mdash;View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.&mdash;Mount
+Faraday.&mdash;Strange Hakea.&mdash;A running stream discovered.&mdash;Return towards the
+camp.&mdash;The party with the carts advances.&mdash;Course of the new found river.&mdash;New
+plants.&mdash;A large lake receives the river.&mdash;The outlet dry.&mdash;Enter a
+scrub.&mdash;Return to the Salvator.&mdash;Discovery of the Claude.&mdash;Rich soil on the
+downs.&mdash;The party moves to the Claude.&mdash;Cross that river. Fossil wood.&mdash;Again
+shut up in a rocky country.&mdash;Slow progress in a gully.&mdash;Balmy Creek.&mdash;New
+plants.&mdash;Emerge from the ravines.&mdash;Tower Almond.&mdash;View from Mount Kilsyth.&mdash;View from Mount Mudge.&mdash;Two natives met.&mdash;Remarkable tree</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter06">CHAPTER VI.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-18">MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,</a><br><br>
+
+Head of another river.&mdash;Water again scarce.&mdash;Abundance found.&mdash;Climate and
+country&mdash;under the Tropic Line.&mdash;Plants.&mdash;Peculiar character of the
+water-course.&mdash;One cause of open spaces in the woods.&mdash;New plants.&mdash;Causes of
+the outspread of channel.&mdash;Plains of wild indigo.&mdash;Large river channel from
+the south.&mdash;Cross.&mdash;Novelties beyond.&mdash;The river much increased.&mdash;Long journey
+through scrub.&mdash;New plants.&mdash;Journey along the river bank.&mdash;Character of this
+river.&mdash;Distant prospect.&mdash;No water.&mdash;Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach
+the river by moonlight.&mdash;Large lagoons.&mdash;New tributary&mdash;from the
+S. W.&mdash;Excursion to the N. W.&mdash;Night without water.&mdash;Interview with natives.&mdash;Camp
+visited by natives during my absence.&mdash;An affair at the camp.&mdash;The party
+crosses the river.&mdash;Conclusions.&mdash;The party returns.&mdash;Tilled ground of the
+natives.&mdash;The shepherd astray.&mdash;Singular phenomenon.&mdash;Extraordinary vegetable
+production.&mdash;Heavy rain comes on.&mdash;Probability of finding a river.&mdash;Singular
+meteor.&mdash;Intertropical temperature.&mdash;Effects of the rain.&mdash;Recross the
+Tropic.&mdash;Regain the higher land.&mdash;Remarkable tree.&mdash;(Hakea?)&mdash;Dip of the
+strata.&mdash;Character of the Belyando.&mdash;How to explore a river in brigalow.&mdash;A
+more direct way homewards.&mdash;Successful passage with carts and drays.&mdash;Open
+downs.&mdash;Fossil wood.&mdash;Recross the Claude.&mdash;Mantuan downs.&mdash;Natives of the
+Salvator.&mdash;Position taken up for a depôt camp.&mdash;Interesting plants</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter07">CHAPTER VII.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-13">(Having reference to Map V.)</a><br><br>
+
+Preparations and departure.&mdash;Mount Pluto.&mdash;Route amongst the three volcanic
+hills.&mdash;Interview with a female native.&mdash;Cross a range beyond.&mdash;The Nive and
+the Nivelle.&mdash;Burning of grass by the natives.&mdash;Water found, after a night of
+thirst.&mdash;Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.&mdash;Morning view from a
+rock.&mdash;A new river followed down-over extensive open downs.&mdash;Brigalow scrubs
+away from the river.&mdash;River much increased.&mdash;Security from natives&mdash;Thoughts
+in these solitudes.&mdash;The downs and the river.&mdash;An emu shot there.&mdash;A river
+joins from the east.&mdash;Structure of native's huts.&mdash;Two separate channels
+unite.&mdash;The river well filled.&mdash;Packhorse unserviceable.&mdash;Rare
+pigeon&mdash;numerous.&mdash;A wild tribe&mdash;surprised at a lagoon.&mdash;Recross the river&mdash;and
+return homewards.&mdash;The savage compared&mdash;with the civilized.&mdash;Hills in the
+S. W.&mdash;Short cut along the left bank of the river.&mdash;Name it the
+Victoria.&mdash;Privations in exploring.&mdash;Return to the Nive and Nivelle.&mdash;Gallant charge by
+a snake.&mdash;Sources of the Salvator.&mdash;View from Mount Pluto.&mdash;Arrival at the camp
+of the pyramids.&mdash;Rare and new plants  collected there</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter08">CHAPTER VIII.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-13">(Having reference to Map V.)</a> and <a href="#trop-10">(Having reference to Map Map IV.)</a><br><br>
+
+Fossils and plants.&mdash;A new genus.&mdash;LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.&mdash;Ascend Mount
+Faraday.&mdash;Valley of the Warregò.&mdash;Meet an old native.&mdash;Return to the camp over
+the gullies.&mdash;Encamp by the Maranòa.&mdash;The river found to be near our former
+track&mdash;with water in abundance.&mdash;Loss of a horse.&mdash;Cattle tracks.&mdash;Arrival at
+the camp of Mr. Kennedy.&mdash;Visits of the natives&mdash;during our absence.&mdash;Plants
+gathered at the depôt camp.&mdash;New plants.&mdash;Fossils
+at Mount Sowerby.&mdash;Ascent of Mount Kennedy.&mdash;The party leaves the
+depôt camp following the course of the Maranòa.&mdash;Discovery of a fine open
+country.&mdash;Numbered trees at camps.&mdash;The country on the Maranòa.&mdash;Singular
+habits of a fish.&mdash;Name of river obtained from good authority.&mdash;The
+Acacia varians.&mdash;Water scarce again.&mdash;Some at
+length discovered by a dog.&mdash;Country between the two routes.&mdash;Plants.&mdash;Arrive
+at the Balonne.&mdash;Return to St. George's Bridge</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter09">CHAPTER IX.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-07">(Having reference to Map III.)</a><br><br>
+
+Despatches sent forward.&mdash;Acquisitions
+during the delay.&mdash;Mr. Kennedy's return and report.&mdash;The party crosses the
+Balonne.&mdash;Arrives at the Mooni.&mdash;A white woman.&mdash;Cattle stations.&mdash;Heavy
+rain.&mdash;The country impassable.&mdash;Camp removed to a hill.&mdash;Dam thrown up.&mdash;The
+waters subside.&mdash;The party proceeds.&mdash;Arrival at the Barwan.&mdash;A
+flood.&mdash;Cross the Màal, also in boats.&mdash;Country between the rivers.&mdash;Mount Riddell
+recognised.&mdash;The Gwydir crossed.&mdash;Termination of the journey.&mdash;A stockman.
+&mdash;Night on the open plain.&mdash;The Nammoy.&mdash;First news</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X.</a></h4>
+
+<blockquote>Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.&mdash;Of
+the Aborigines.&mdash;Simple conditions of human existence.&mdash;Grass, fire, kangaroos,
+and men.&mdash;Case of the aboriginal natives.&mdash;My native guides.&mdash;Experiment worth
+trying.&mdash;Of the Convicts.&mdash;Character of the men of the party.&mdash;Of convicts
+generally.&mdash;Of the Colony of New South Wales,&mdash;capabilities of soil and
+climate.&mdash;Progress of colonization,&mdash;Division and appropriation of the
+territory.&mdash;Capricornia and Austral-india</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#trop-29">MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA</a></h4>
+
+<h4><a href="#appendix">APPENDIX.</a></h4>
+
+<blockquote>The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.&mdash;Letter,
+dated 28th October, 1830<br><br>
+
+Systematical List of Plants</blockquote>
+
+<h3>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h3>
+
+<p><a href="#trop-01">Flood coming down the Macquarie</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-02">Map I. The Indian Archipelago</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-03">Portrait of Bultje</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-04">Remnant of the Bogan tribe</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-05">Map II. The Rivers Bogan and Macquarie</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-06">First use of the boats</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-07">Map III. The Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-08">Separation of the Balonne into the Culgoa, Narran, etc.</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-09">The River Balonne, 7th April</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-10">Map IV. Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-11">The Bottle tree, DELABECHEA</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-12">The black awaiting the white</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-13">Map V. The country and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the River Victoria</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-14">Tree without branches</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-15">The Pyramids</a><br>
+Martin's Range<br>
+<a href="#trop-17">Tower Almond</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-18">Map VI. The River Belyando</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-19">Missile club of natives of Central Australia</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-20">Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?)</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-21">The River Salvator, 5th Sept.</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-22">Lindley's Range</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-23">Old native female</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-24">Aboriginal dance</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-25">View on the River Maranòa</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-26">Acacia VARIANS</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-27">St. Georgia's Bridge</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-28">Last use of the boats</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-29">Map VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries</a></p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-02"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-02.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map I. The Indian Archipelago</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<h3>JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.</h3>
+
+<a name="chapter01"></a>
+<h4>Chapter I.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.&mdash;IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
+STANLEY.&mdash;LIST OF THE PARTY.&mdash;DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.&mdash;SCATTERED
+POPULATION.&mdash;IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.&mdash;A TEA-TOTALLER FROM
+SYDNEY.&mdash;A SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.&mdash;MEET
+AN OLD ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.&mdash;CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.&mdash;THE BOGAN
+RIVER.&mdash;YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.&mdash;EXCESSIVE HEAT.&mdash;GREAT SCARCITY
+OF WATER.&mdash;THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.&mdash;MELANCHOLY
+FATE OF THE BOGAN TRIBE.&mdash;INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.&mdash;CARRY WATER
+FORWARD.&mdash;DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.&mdash;FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.&mdash;DOGS
+DIE FROM THIRST.&mdash;THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.&mdash;QUIT THE BOGAN,
+BY MOVING TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ.&mdash;ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH
+THE PARTY.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
+first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
+entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
+part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
+development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The
+same direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the
+Royal Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a
+committee of the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most
+desirable to pursue at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony
+from distress found favour with the public.
+
+<p>At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
+islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
+industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
+themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Which mock'd their scant manurings,<br>
+and requir'd <i>more hands than theirs</i> to prune their wanton growth."</blockquote>
+
+<p>The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward,
+"al nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.],"
+seemed to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the
+wayward fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern
+extremity of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis
+incognita." The character of the interior of that country still remained
+unknown, the largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere
+exploration, the colonists of New South Wales might not have been very
+anxious just at that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical
+knowledge could be combined with that of exploring a route towards
+the nearest part of the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait,
+it was easy to awaken the attention of the Australian public to the
+importance of such an enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount
+the Indian cavalry had commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of
+Torres Straits had been injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided
+by any overland route from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+<p>But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
+South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
+shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with
+England by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by
+land, was an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In
+short, the commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the
+direct road home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the
+discovery of a good overland route between Sydney and the head of the
+Gulf of Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be
+introduced from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
+
+<p>In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
+the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to the
+settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-île forming the furthest point
+of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
+therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that
+of the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a
+considerable river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+<p>My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
+submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
+His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
+reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
+should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
+Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more
+money than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards
+the expense of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it.
+His Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
+the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
+still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
+to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
+interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
+which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
+despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
+and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six
+persons who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not
+been heard of, and were supposed to have either perished or been
+destroyed by natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from
+Port Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
+shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
+
+<p>The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated,
+favourable to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still
+declined to allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any
+reason for keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it
+became known in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed,
+with the express sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring
+expedition from Adelaide into the northern interior of Australia, and that
+he was actually then in New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had
+expressed, in one of his early despatches to the British Government, his
+readiness to encourage such an undertaking as that, and stated that "no
+one came forward to claim the honour of such an enterprise;" yet now
+that Lord Stanley had sanctioned the plan of the Surveyor General,
+whose duty it was to survey the country, he refused to allow this officer
+to proceed. The Legislative Council, however, renewed the petition for
+this undertaking, to which the Governor at length assented, in 1845; and
+the sum of 2000L. was unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but
+with the clear understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of
+the Surveyor General should be adopted.
+
+<p>The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new.
+The journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report
+that a large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
+accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
+still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first papers
+published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
+suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
+Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by
+a map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
+
+<p>In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
+land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
+bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
+preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
+greater number of men, were considered objections; while many
+experienced persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more
+enduring than horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.]
+Eight drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood:
+four of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
+Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two parts,
+on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party moved off
+from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.
+
+<p>I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having
+rode there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following
+Monday, 15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior.
+The Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:&mdash;
+
+<pre>
+SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.
+EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command.
+W. STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural History.
+PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes.
+Charles Niblett,
+William Graham,
+ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper.
+WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.
+John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper.
+Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers.
+Edward Taylor,
+William Bond,
+William Mortimer,
+George Allcot,
+John Slater,
+Richard Horton,
+Felix Maguire,
+James Stephens, Carpenters.
+Job Stanley,
+Edward Wilson, Blacksmith.
+George Fowkes, Shoemaker.
+John Douglas, Barometer carrier.
+Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman.
+Andrew Higgs, Chainman.
+William Hunter, With the horses.
+Thomas Smith,
+Patrick Travers, Carter and Pioneer.
+Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher.
+Arthur Bristol, Sailmaker and Sailor.
+
+8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3
+light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was
+provided with provisions for a year:&mdash;250 sheep (to travel with the
+party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest consisted
+of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.
+</pre>
+
+<p>
+With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the
+party consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,
+with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so
+powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,
+from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely on
+their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the
+face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of the
+old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp
+arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly
+forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of
+discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a
+party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and it
+was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as
+mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the
+same kind of authority could not be exercised.
+
+<p>Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former
+line of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived
+at Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same
+chain of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named
+Dochendoras Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds.
+These ponds had been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the
+9th December&mdash;the day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had
+been clear and sultry. A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day,
+levelled part of the forest near this place, laying prostrate the largest
+trees, one side of which was completely barked by the hailstones. Many
+branches of trees along the line of route, showed that the wind had been
+very violent to a considerable distance.
+
+<p>16TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,
+therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the
+chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and
+difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing, chiefly
+to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to have taken,
+but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays before my
+arrival at the camp.
+
+<p>We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that
+Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a
+gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all
+sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which
+may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,
+or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot,
+although previously unknown in these regions.
+
+<p>17TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Set off about 7 a.m. and travelled along a good
+road, for about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of
+ponds, following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called
+Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we
+finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We
+had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but
+everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a
+blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of rain, it
+had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the Macquarie.
+
+<p>Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared
+with a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper.
+She had been there two years, and only complained that they had never
+been able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to
+leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they
+should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,
+and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found
+work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very
+little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied
+sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His
+conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his
+family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been
+obliged to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man
+neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under
+the new regulations.
+
+<p>"So you saw no more of them?"
+
+<p>"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them <i>after they had been sold at
+the pound</i>!&mdash;I wanted to have had something provided for a small
+family of children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could
+have kept my cows."
+
+<p>This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked
+along, for he was one of the race&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Who march to death with military glee."</blockquote>
+
+<p>But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the
+hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the
+desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the
+<i>disjecta membra</i> of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left
+to the people themselves in a new colony.
+
+<p>18TH DECEMBER.&mdash;The party moved off about 7 a.m., and continued
+along a tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek,
+in which there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the
+good beaten road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left,
+which brought us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds,
+three miles higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to
+encamp here, I pursued the road south-westward along the chain of
+ponds, anxious to ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily
+to the westward of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of
+route to the Bogan. At about five miles I found an excellent opening
+through which the road passed on ground almost level. Having ascended
+a small eminence on the right, I fell in with some natives with spears,
+who seemed to recognise me, by pointing to my old line of route, and
+saying, "Majy Majy" (Major Mitchell). I little thought then that this was
+already an outlying picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe
+my party. The day was hot, therm. 97° in the shade. The chain of ponds,
+there called "the Little River," contained water in abundance, and was
+said to flow into the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but
+few sources in Hervey's Range.
+
+<p>The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard,
+and had been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now
+a sheep station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a
+mile and a half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country
+suitable for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment
+of sheep on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place&mdash;as
+where sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where
+cattle would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter
+description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The
+plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive pasturage
+in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to inundations to
+be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this description lies on the
+interior side of the ranges, as far as I have examined them. It is watered
+by the sources of the rivers Goulburn, Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee,
+Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh, Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and
+Darling; on which rivers the runs will always make cattle fat. There are
+two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there is something salsolaceous in
+the herbage also on which cattle thrive so well; and the open plains and
+muddy waterholes are their delight. Excessive drought, however, may
+occasionally reduce the owners of such stock to great extremities, and
+subject them to serious loss. The Acacia pendula, a tree whose <i>habitat</i> is
+limited and remarkable, is much relished by the cattle. It is found only in
+clay soils, on the borders of plains, which are occasionally so saturated
+with water as to be quite impassable; never on higher ground nor on any
+lower than that limited sort of locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers
+which at some seasons overflow. In such situations, even where grass
+seems very scarce, cattle get fat; and it is a practice of stockmen to cut
+down the Acacia pendula (or Myall trees, as they call them) for the cattle
+to feed on.
+
+<p>At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual
+who had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of
+colonial bankruptcies&mdash;a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his
+consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state
+of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there
+were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be
+startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system
+which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one
+thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should
+be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so
+favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite
+theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and
+propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this
+unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal
+native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they
+could not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences
+between squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it
+were an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more
+likely to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;
+remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,
+all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money,
+then place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than
+a black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I
+penned these remarks.
+
+<p>19TH DECEMBER.&mdash;The party moved along the road I had previously
+examined. On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees,
+plants, and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each
+side, and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious
+shrub never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy
+valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of former
+difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had travelled
+upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This consisted
+of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had formerly
+been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of Three
+Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their
+appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend Bultje,
+who had guided me from thence to the Bené Rocks, on my former journey along
+the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had elapsed since I
+formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time had made no
+alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to forward my views
+that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water was to be found;
+and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former route, by the least
+possible <i>détour</i>. Mount Laidley bore 23° E. of N.
+
+<p>20TH DECEMBER.&mdash;This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass
+seemed good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A
+cattle station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and
+at about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it
+crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally
+diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace of
+the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill laid
+down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,
+I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very
+springs mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being
+limpid and surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were
+now trodden by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been
+endeavouring to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it
+pure, by laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The
+change produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by
+the intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable,
+and I could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native,
+should have felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from
+the level plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty
+feet lower continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste
+of sulphur, and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more
+celebrated. They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are
+not supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain
+descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang
+Creek did however retain some water which had fallen during the last
+rain. The thermometer stood at 107° in the tent.
+
+<p>21ST DECEMBER.&mdash;Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a
+straight line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half
+way to the Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating
+country, just heading a gully called Brotherba&mdash;showing how well our
+guide knew the country&mdash;and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here
+also were two flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head
+station, being fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap.
+While travelling this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters
+from Buree, and a cart had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a
+small supply of corn. That country is considered excellent as a fattening
+run for sheep; the shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which
+keeps them in excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of
+water at some seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into
+sheep runs, and VICE VERSÂ, a contingency which seems to render these
+lands of Hervey's range of temporary and uncertain value.
+
+<p>22D DECEMBER.&mdash;Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the
+little chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was
+good&mdash;the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N.
+W. It was the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing
+at length to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we
+further on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon
+its western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains
+had been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length
+arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Ganànaguy,
+and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here
+looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there
+was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,
+and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the
+country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or
+Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the
+Bogan seemed low.
+
+<p>This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the
+failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an
+almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water
+for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform
+width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be
+sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain
+tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the
+sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions
+of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are
+greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is
+scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had
+been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses
+cannot travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the
+mercy of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking
+kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of
+cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and
+lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109° at noon, wind
+W.N.W.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-03"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-03.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Portrait of Bultje</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>23D DECEMBER.&mdash;We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr.
+Templar's station at Ganànaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood
+by the party as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink
+to each of the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest
+water-holes (Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service
+he promised, I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco
+promised him, and also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This
+native got a bad name from various stockmen, as having been implicated
+in the murder of Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded;
+and it must indeed require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates
+to maintain his footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen
+or shepherds on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter
+savages naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as
+we should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to
+them, while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most
+unjustly connected this native's name with the murder of one of our
+number. His laconic manner and want of language would not admit of
+any clear explanation of how much he had done to serve our race&mdash;and
+the difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance
+of his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley
+in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil, at
+least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition. Much
+tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by
+stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when
+aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to save
+or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this, without
+having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own valley,
+"surpasseth me to know."
+
+<p>We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr.
+Gilmore's station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk.
+At the station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a
+flood had come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up
+the well. The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the
+clay was wet and soft when the further sinking was interrupted.
+Thermometer in my tent 109°, wind W. N. W.
+
+<p>24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest
+sunbeams shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off
+early, but the progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind
+blew like a blast furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We
+encamped on the Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after
+travelling about ten miles. Thermometer in tent, 103.° Hot wind from the
+west.
+
+<p>25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more
+from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107°.
+
+<p>26TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to
+Mr. Coss, 2½ miles. Thermometer, 109°.
+
+<p>27TH DECEMBER.&mdash;The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of
+the bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.
+
+<p>At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind
+from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot
+wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117°, and when
+exposed to the wind rose rapidly to 129°, when I feared the thermometer
+would break as it only reached to 132°.
+
+<p>28TH DECEMBER.&mdash;All the cattle having been recovered, we set off
+early, accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The
+day was excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally
+encamped on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling
+eleven miles. Thermometer in tent, 115°. At half past five, the sky
+became overcast, and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and
+suddenly fell. I found that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud,
+leaving a jug of the water tolerably clear, but then the acid remained.
+Towards evening the sky was overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The
+night was uncommonly hot. At ten the thermometer stood at 102°, and at
+day-break at 90°.
+
+<p>29TH DECEMBER.&mdash;The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle
+would no longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from
+south. Finding a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the
+lighter portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the
+hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the <i>Polygonum junceum</i>,
+reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a <i>Solanum</i> in
+flower, of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener
+grass indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at
+about twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and
+elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had
+been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of
+the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where
+the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the
+Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had
+been once much lower down, at Mudà, and even at Nyingan (see <i>infra</i>),
+but the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations
+untenable, without more support than the Colonial government was able
+to afford. There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer
+of the country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered.
+The map will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep
+their ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes.
+[* See map of Eastern Australia&mdash;<i>infra</i>.] The Darling is peopled more
+permanently by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia:
+affording as it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in
+seasons of very high flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got
+at, and that they are obliged to resort to the higher country at such
+seasons, between the Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also
+happens that the cattle of the squatter are most accessible from the soft
+state of the ground; the stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The
+tribes from the Lachlan and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and
+when tribes assemble they are generally ready for any mischief. The
+Bogan is particularly within their reach, and when wet seasons do occur
+the cattle of squatters must be very much at the mercy of the savages.
+The tribes from the Darling are extremely hostile, even to the more
+peaceably disposed hilltribes near the colony, and several stations have
+already been abandoned in consequence of the outrages of the aborigines
+from the Darling and Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils
+as the precarious or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply
+of water must continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from
+actual possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full
+benefit of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres,
+covered with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages
+smile at the want of generalship by which they have been allowed to
+burn the white man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the
+Bogan. The establishment of a police station near the junction of the
+Bogan with the Darling, or the formation of an inland township about
+Fort Bourke, had been sufficient to have secured the stations along the
+Bogan and Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well
+as our own countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such
+are the results where <i>squatting</i> has been permitted to supersede settling.
+With possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied,
+and no such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British
+colony.
+
+<p>The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
+that between our present camp and Mudà, a very large lagoon about 50
+miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206 feet
+in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the Bogan is
+only 50 feet between Mudà and New Year's Range, in a distance of
+upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Mudà
+from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
+general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which the
+overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and other
+channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where the
+declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in the
+channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither flow with
+so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by which ponds
+are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this part,
+during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about double
+the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
+
+<p>I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
+Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require to
+take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
+having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas the
+working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
+journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
+young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
+break them in as we proceeded.
+
+<p>30TH DECEMBER.&mdash;The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool
+morning. Thermometer, 68°. This day we selected from the herds of Mr.
+Kerr 32 young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the
+stockyard.
+
+<p>Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
+
+<p>31ST DECEMBER, 1845.&mdash;Thermometer at 5 a.m., 62°: at noon, 109°.
+Wind S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately
+avoiding the tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the
+air, also some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much
+wanted for the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in
+the evening.
+
+<p>1ST JANUARY, 1846.&mdash;A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day,
+and was very high at 11 a.m. The party were chiefly employed breaking
+in the young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with
+the hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
+evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
+<i>Atriplex semibaccata</i> of Brown was a common straggling plant.
+
+<p>2D JANUARY.&mdash;The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning
+was cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the
+clouds, which resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat
+again. Besides the <i>Salsola australis</i>, we found a <i>Halgania</i> with lilac
+flowers, probably distinct from the species hitherto described, which are
+natives of the south-west coast.
+
+<p>3D JANUARY.&mdash;This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the
+old; and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in
+the Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to
+the scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the
+first hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named
+Mount Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The
+little pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of
+Cunningham was so identified with the botanical history of almost all the
+shrubs in the very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no
+other monument seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled
+Cunningham to my mind; his barbarous murder, and the uncertainty
+which still hung over the actual circumstances attending it. The shrubs
+told indeed of Cunningham; of both brothers, both now dead; but neither
+the shrubs named by the one, nor the gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had
+witnessed the bloody deed, could tell more. There the <i>Acacia pendula</i>,
+first discovered and described by Allan, could only</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand,<br>
+For ever silent, and for ever sad."</blockquote>
+
+<p>4TH JANUARY.&mdash;The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with
+the young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of
+conveyance was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no
+pecuniary saving would compensate, as compared with light carts and
+horses. I proceeded forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called
+Tabbaratong, where some water was said still to remain. We found some
+mud and water only; although some that was excellent was found about
+two miles lower down the Bogan, late in the evening.
+
+<p>We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the
+squatter. The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and
+humiliating proofs that the white man had given way, were visible in the
+remains of dairies burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We
+hoped to find within the territory of the native, ponds of clear water,
+unsoiled by cattle, and a surface on which we might track our own stray
+animals, without their being confused by the traces of others.
+
+<p>5TH JANUARY.&mdash;Three of the young cattle having escaped during the
+night, retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
+brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
+native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light
+carts, guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old,
+who had come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native
+of the lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our
+route was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of <I>Callitris</I> and
+other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
+thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
+through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
+The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
+route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
+native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
+driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
+which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
+downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
+on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
+but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabadà
+and Mudà, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
+the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
+arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabadà ponds. The water was
+however excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days,
+and we hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only
+arrived at as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The
+drays with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock
+and Yuranigh back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without
+water, and that I wished him, if still <i>en route</i>, immediately to unyoke the
+cattle, encamp on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes
+during the night, and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes
+I had found near Bugabadà. We passed a miserable night without water
+at Cadduldury.
+
+<p>6TH JANUARY.&mdash;William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a
+message from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I
+went forward with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 a.m..
+The morning happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of
+water and food the preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John
+Douglas and Isaac Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at
+the first water-hole. But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy
+loads thus far in the extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to
+me. William Baldock again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of
+water on a horse, a horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the
+drays, the drivers of which were almost frantic and unable to do their
+work from thirst. He brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still
+remained at his encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the
+drivers (Mortimer and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes,
+and chains, to escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to
+watch his own team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune
+to the whole party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as
+my camp, but I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the
+water, which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left
+with the drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the
+water, and the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr.
+Stephenson, who had hastened back with several bottles, relieved his
+thirst, and, as the man said, "saved his life."
+
+<p>Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
+hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
+the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
+heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
+however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with
+which I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably
+disposed towards us.
+
+<p>7TH JANUARY.&mdash;Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare
+bullocks, having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during
+the night. The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part
+of the other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in
+charge of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would
+also have gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr.
+Kennedy sent him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays
+carrying the provisions had not come up, and my party too was short.
+The day surpassed in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon
+in the shade stood at 109°, a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr.
+Kennedy was distant at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabadà.
+
+<p>The six drays came in about 4 p.m.; the sheep not until long after
+dark. Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr.
+Kennedy, and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement
+for drawing forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care
+of, and which was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the
+evening of next day, to be attached on their arrival to the two drays with
+which they were to come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest
+of the night, until they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined
+to meet them early next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it
+was not my intention to send after the four stray bullocks until the drays
+came in, and the party could be again united. Thermometer again 109° in
+the shade all day.
+
+<p>The <i>Calotis cuneifolia</i> was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was
+the common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
+capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
+reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are found
+so troublesome among the wool.
+
+<p>8TH JANUARY.&mdash;The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he
+had found him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from
+want of water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to
+a young dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated
+that a tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind.
+Baldock had seen several bullocks dead on the way.
+
+In the evening the two first teams were sent off as arranged. This day
+had also been very sultry, especially towards evening.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-04"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-04.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Remnant of the Bogan tribe</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>9TH JANUARY.&mdash;Early this morning, the two relieving teams were
+despatched as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered
+the camp. We had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances,
+to suffer so little loss, and I determined never to move the party again,
+until I could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I
+had been previously assured by the young native that water was still to
+be found at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal
+to the whole party.
+
+<p>On the banks of the Bogan, the <i>Atriplex hagnoides</i> formed a round
+white-looking bush.
+
+<p>I rode forward to Mudà, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper,
+and had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who
+remembered my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show
+me my old track and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the
+northward of my present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had
+been killed in a fight with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before.
+Two old grey-haired men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed
+out to me as his brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that
+I had at first imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on
+their hams opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and
+grey, and melancholy&mdash;sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
+
+<p>The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
+struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
+Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
+natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of the
+tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives were
+chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
+
+<p>The natives of Mudà assured me there was no water nearer than
+Nyingan, a large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct
+line lower down the Bogan. The ponds of Mudà, their great store of
+water, and known to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were
+alarmingly low, and it became evident that our progress under such a
+scarcity of water would be attended with difficulty. These natives gave
+us also a friendly hint that "<i>gentlemen</i>" should be careful of the spears of
+the natives of Nyingan, as many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately
+by white men from Wellington Valley.
+
+<p>Among the woods we observed the white-flowered <i>Teucrium racemosum</i>,
+the <i>Justicia media</i>, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink
+flowers; also a <i>Stenochilus</i> and <i>Fusanus</i> (the Quandang), although not in
+fruit; a new species of <i>Stipa</i>, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse
+rough herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in
+the way of <i>C. truncata</i>, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed pales,[**]
+and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new <i>Eremophila</i> with
+white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The beautiful
+<i>Damasonium ovalifolium</i>, with white flowers red in the centre, still
+existed in the water.
+
+<p>[* <i>S. scabra</i> (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi villosis,
+glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis involutis culmis
+brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligulâ oblongâ subciliatâ.]
+
+<p>[** <i>C. sclerantha</i> (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris tactu
+scabris, spicis 4&mdash;7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque breviaristato
+cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili vacuo.]
+
+<p>[*** <i>E. mitchelli</i> (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis linearibus
+planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4 superioribus
+subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
+
+<p>In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
+the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
+was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
+track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
+following it further.
+
+<p>I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
+out present camp near Bugabadà was in latitude 31° 56', and thus very
+near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
+terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90°; at 9 p.m., 70°; with wet bulb,
+63°.
+
+<p>10TH JANUARY.&mdash;Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to
+the S. W. in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I
+sent William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the
+stray bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track
+to Mudà, where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and
+sheep, already arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of
+having been on watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell
+asleep, and that the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them,
+but lost himself. He had met one or two natives who offered him honey,
+etc. which he declined.
+
+<p>We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
+visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
+state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We
+had passed near Bugabadà similar remains of a cattle station. This
+position of Mudà was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank
+nearly clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
+surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
+last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of a
+young crop shooting up amongst it.
+
+<p>11TH JANUARY, 1846.&mdash;Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the
+cattle and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+<p>12TH JANUARY.&mdash;Still I halted at Mudà for the lost bullocks. To-day I
+noticed the <i>Kochia brevifolia</i>, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
+fruit, edged with pink.
+
+<p>13TH JANUARY.&mdash;Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning
+(by moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones)
+could not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr.
+Kerr's station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be
+found. We had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great
+scarcity of water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that
+our loss had been so slight.
+
+<p>I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
+Nyingan, which bore 353°&mdash;and having found a tolerably open country
+for about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and
+encamped, sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Mudà.
+Enough had been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the
+camp. To ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already
+stated, the paddock at Mudà, in which during this night, they could be
+secured, having also sufficient grass,&mdash;likewise the horses. In my ride I
+found a new grass of the genus <i>Chloris</i>[*], something like <i>Chl. truncata</i> in
+habit, some starved specimens of <i>Trichinium lanatum</i>; amongst the
+grasses I also found the <i>Aristida calycina</i> of Brown, the curious
+<i>Neurachne mitchelliana</i> Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and
+also a new <i>Pappophorum</i> with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart
+shower fell during the evening.
+
+<p>[* <i>C. acicularis</i> (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris tactu
+scabris, spicis 8&mdash;9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque setaceo
+aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
+
+<p>[** <i>P. flavescens</i> (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis, spicâ
+compositâ densissimâ oblongâ, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis pilosis, foliis
+vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis villosis.]
+
+<p>14TH JANUARY.&mdash;The cattle arrived early from Mudà, and were
+immediately yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on
+the same bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been
+encamped, I turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water
+there. I found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a
+journey of about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently
+found I had encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was
+guided by the friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his
+country afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I
+had cut off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a
+north-westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels
+will probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan
+may be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
+stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
+been burnt down.
+
+<p>15TH JANUARY.&mdash;Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day
+was fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
+found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
+the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
+Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
+An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the
+<i>Jasminum lineare</i>, with its sweet-scented white flowers&mdash;and, near the
+water, I saw the <i>Alternanthera nodiflora</i>.
+
+<p>16TH JANUARY.&mdash;At a good early hour the party moved from Dar,
+crossing the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked
+trees. We lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgabà, and
+made a slight détour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we
+encamped, and were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this
+day's journey Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen
+with those of the feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old
+track, and returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces
+of our party.
+
+<p>At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
+natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
+house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were
+sunken very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp
+had been established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look
+for the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
+my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
+thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water, but
+in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen, during
+the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
+
+<p>17TH JANUARY.&mdash;Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the
+native Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to
+the Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from
+that point to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water,
+provided this did not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by
+sunset. Two old women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by
+whom Piper was told that the nearest permanent water was "<i>niminé</i>,"
+where white men had attempted to form a cattle-station, and been
+prevented by natives from the Darling, many of whom had since been
+shot by the white men. They said the place was far beyond Canbelego,
+the next stage of my former journey, and where these women also said
+little or no water remained.
+
+<p>Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven a.m., having found water at
+Canbelego. Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the
+fruit of the <i>Capparis mitchellii</i>, which he called an apple, being new to
+him, but which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew,
+and said was called "<i>moguile</i>;" he also said that it was eaten by the
+natives.
+
+<p>18TH JANUARY.&mdash;The party moved to Canbelego where one or two
+small ponds remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass
+than we had hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of
+water, we had been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again
+forward looking for water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and
+after following the river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was
+now within the same distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had
+found abundance of water when I sent him to survey it upwards during
+my last return journey up the Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in
+which Piper pointed, that the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as
+containing water; and as the course of that creek, so far as shown on
+maps, led even more directly to the Darling than did the Bogan, I was
+willing in such a season of extreme drought, to avail myself of its waters.
+My eye had been much injured by straining at stars while at the camp
+near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to send Mr. Kennedy on one of my
+own horses, followed by Graham, to examine the water in Duck Creek. I
+instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35° E. of North, until he should
+reach the creek, and if he found water in it to return direct to the camp,
+but that if water was not found on first making the creek, then he was to
+follow Duck Creek up to its junction with an eastern branch, surveyed
+also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence to the camp on a bearing of
+240°. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with Yuranigh down the Bogan, to
+ascertain if the channel contained any pond between our camp and the
+part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.
+
+<p>This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve
+hours, and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after
+examining its bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on
+the plains near the head of the eastern branch, but around which there
+was no grass, all having been recently burnt.
+
+<p>20TH JANUARY.&mdash;Macavoy returned at seven a.m., saying he had been
+twenty-four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the
+same time Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me
+that these animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud
+remaining in the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that
+four of the horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that
+William Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an
+early hour in the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the
+bullocks to Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks,
+also the horses, and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the
+whole of the cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks
+filled.
+
+<p>21ST JANUARY.&mdash;Having again despatched the bullocks back to
+Nyingan, I conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of
+1835), having on two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts
+under them all the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use
+the iron boat as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage
+forward; that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards
+the water I hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a
+convenient distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven
+forward to return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered
+possible, even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the
+fine reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the
+14th May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from
+the gin's description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the
+disputed station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve
+miles from Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions
+to bring the drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning.
+I had sent thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of
+Baldock and the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no
+longer at Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats,
+the contents of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was
+immediately sent back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh
+horses had been left, to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to
+Nyingan during the night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the
+dray&mdash;already there with the harness casks&mdash;bringing an additional supply
+back in the kegs, when the bullocks returned next day.
+
+<p>It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the
+state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at
+once, whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to
+cross to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I
+accordingly set out at 3 p.m., from where the water had been placed in
+the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal
+Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from
+the camp in the direction of 30° E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we
+reached at about 3½ miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed
+was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond
+of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel
+downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found
+the general direction was westward, until it <i>joined the bogan</i>. We next
+followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,
+without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any
+of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,
+in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.
+
+<p>22D JANUARY.&mdash;Having proceeded some miles along the western
+bends of the Bogan, hastily&mdash;being desirous to see that day the great
+pond beyond Mount Hopeless&mdash;I observed that the clay was very
+shining and compact in a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed,
+that the grass was green as from recent rain, and that there was more
+chirping of birds; I was tempted once more by these indications, to look
+for water in the Bogan's almost hopeless channel, and there we found a
+pond, at sight of which poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell
+asleep almost in the water. It was small, but being sufficient for our
+immediate wants, we thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and
+proceeded on our eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this
+pond I discovered my old track, which we continued to follow across
+those large plains, whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless.
+These plains I soon again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels,
+distinctly visible in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven
+years. Arriving at length near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we
+resumed our examination of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle
+tracks; the ovens in which the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and
+about their old encampments many heaps of bones; but in none of the
+deep beds of former ponds or lagoons could we discover any water. The
+grass was nevertheless excellent and abundant; and its waste, added to
+the distress the want of water occasioned us, made us doubly lament the
+absence of civilised inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and
+fine soil could have been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor
+were even kangaroos or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer
+inhabitants of these parts. I turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it
+would have been unsafe to venture with cattle and drays into these
+regions before rain fell. In returning, we at first found it difficult to find
+our old track, by which alone we could hope that night to reach the small
+pond of the morning; but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and
+we had also the good fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the
+pond before sunset. There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad
+indeed to have even that water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy,
+had repeatedly thrown himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite
+ill from thirst.
+
+<p>23D JANUARY.&mdash;After our horses had drank, we left no water in the
+pond; but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed,
+although with water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from
+an old marked tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160°, I
+several times during our ride fell in with the old track, and finally
+reached the camp after a rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party
+had arrived the previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr.
+Kennedy was absent, having set off that morning in search of water to
+the N. E. with Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving
+word that he should return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that
+hour, however, and at two I moved the party across the Bogan, and
+proceeded along open plains towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the
+intention of there refreshing the cattle and horses, and awaiting more
+favourable weather. I previously watered out of the half-boat, 106
+bullocks, and gave a quart to each of the horses. On the way, the heat
+was so intense that our three best and strongest kangaroo dogs died, and
+it was not until 10 p.m. that the drays reached the ponds where I had
+proposed to encamp. About an hour and a half before, Mr. Kennedy also
+came in, having galloped the two horses 66 miles, and hurt both their
+backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 p.m., therm. 80°, wet bulb,
+68°.
+
+<p>24TH JANUARY.&mdash;This morning I awoke completely blind, from
+ophthalmia, and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several
+of the men were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of
+this malady in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the
+warm air wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same
+effect until the weather changed. At 9 p.m., therm. 84°, with wet bulb,
+68°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-05"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-05.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map II. The Rivers Bogan and Macquarie</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter02"></a>
+<h4>Chapter II.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.&mdash;BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.&mdash;MOVE
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.&mdash;HOT WIND.&mdash;HEAT GREATER
+THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.&mdash;PIPER'S
+INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.&mdash;HIS SENT TO BATHURST.&mdash;WEATHER
+CHANGES.&mdash;RAIN.&mdash;MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.&mdash;SALT MADE FROM
+THE SALT PLANT.&mdash;RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."&mdash;THE PARTY QUITS
+CANNONBÀ&mdash;CROSSES PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK&mdash;AND THENCE TO THE RIVER
+MACQUARIE.&mdash;OPHTHALMIA STILL TROUBLESOME.&mdash;APPROACH OF A FLOOD
+ANNOUNCED.&mdash;ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR MOONLIGHT.&mdash;MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE
+PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.&mdash;NO WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."&mdash;DIFFICULTY
+OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST
+THE REEDS.&mdash;"YULLIYALLY," A NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.&mdash;NEW PLANTS
+DISCOVERED.&mdash;DESCRIPTION OF OUR NATIVE GUIDE.&mdash;CONDITION OF HIS
+COUNTRYMEN.&mdash;HOW AFFECTED BY THE INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.&mdash;AT
+LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.&mdash;WATER SCARCE.&mdash;NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING
+ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.&mdash;DELAYED BY STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.&mdash;AT
+LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE RIVER WITH THE DARLING.&mdash;CROSS THE
+MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION&mdash;AND FORD THE DARLING AT WYÀBRY.</blockquote>
+
+<p>25TH JANUARY.&mdash;Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application
+of leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent
+William Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought
+back enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The
+ground here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the Darling,
+with the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be lost in
+seeking some ponds where there might be also good grass for the cattle.
+Therm. at sunrise, 97°; at noon, 100°; at 9 p.m. 90°; with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+<p>26TH JANUARY.&mdash;I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E.
+direction to where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected
+from a cloudy sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that
+water was near, as natives are seldom found where there is none. He
+returned early with the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of
+water in a creek about five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks.
+My eyes were so far recovered that I could observe the altitude of a
+star, thus ascertaining the latitude of this camp to be 31° 20' 20" S.
+Therm. at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 112°; at 9 p.m. 84°; with wet bulb, 70°.
+
+<p>27TH JANUARY.&mdash;The whole party moved to the ponds called
+"Cannonbà" by the natives. There we found greater abundance of water
+and better grass than we had seen near water during the whole journey,
+and I determined to halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had
+previously intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle,
+when we should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers
+had been much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses
+had got out of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the
+Darling their services would be more required. I was also to try the
+experiment here, whether I might prosecute the journey without danger
+of losing my eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point,
+had been almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no
+hostile natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins;
+rain was daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly
+come in a short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented
+to me as needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the
+wheels;&mdash;and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we
+could encamp under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We
+placed our tents amongst shady bushes&mdash;set up the blacksmith's forge,
+and soon all hands were at work in their various avocations, whilst the
+cattle and horses enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance
+of water.
+
+<p>Amongst the bushes here, a <i>Hakea</i>, with simple filiform mucronulate
+leaves without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls
+resembling dry plums. Also the <i>Senecio cunninghami</i> (D.C.), found by
+Allan Cunningham on the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson
+discovered here a very pretty new <i>Trichinium</i>, with heads of hoary pink
+flowers. [* <i>T. semilanatum</i> (Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis,
+angulatis, foliis linearibus acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris
+hemisphericis, rachi densè bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis
+plumosis parcè lanatis.]
+
+<p>I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan,
+consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E. of
+us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by Larmer
+is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful one it
+has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds (whence
+we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonbà;" and to what I
+suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point
+northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78°; at
+noon, 115°; at 4 p.m. 96°; at 9, 88°; with wet bulb, 73°.
+
+<p>28TH JANUARY.&mdash;Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with
+large chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the
+bottom of one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about
+the banks. Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station
+had not been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by
+some old gins seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when
+the place was abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the
+W.N.W. of Mount Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse
+was broader than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained
+much granitic sand, all but identifying its sources with those of the
+Macquarie. This day was very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a
+shower fell about 3 p.m. Thermometer at sunrise, 78°; at noon, 115°; at 4
+p.m. 108°; at 9, 84°; with wet bulb, 63°.
+
+<p>29TH JANUARY.&mdash;A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer
+to 115° in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon
+became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near
+us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a heavy
+shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102°.
+
+<p>30TH JANUARY.&mdash;An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the
+quarter where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This
+day the doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in
+my former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor
+fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 108°; at 9,
+100 ½°; with wet bulb, 79°.
+
+<p>31ST JANUARY.&mdash;The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of
+observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The
+table for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by
+my friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88° of Fahrenheit, whereas at
+4 p.m., the centigrade thermometer stood at 44½°, which is equal to
+112° of Fahrenheit.
+
+<p>This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking
+with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made
+some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various
+sayings and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never
+any serious intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its
+progress. The services of other more intelligent natives might easily have
+been obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but
+Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of
+course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long
+interval of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance,
+although during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay,
+the river Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party
+on this last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled
+gun, clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets,
+place in a tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a
+very bad shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to
+obtain any clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as
+interpreter; he went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had
+drawn his rations and those of the two young natives separately from the
+men's mess the week before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their
+fair share; he was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine
+departure, foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he
+could thus obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He
+also had it in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from
+the other two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had
+heard of the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards
+the cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were
+actively at their work,&mdash;blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers,
+&mdash;this man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse
+to boot, and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom
+he called his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native
+guide, just at the time when such guides were most required. The only
+difficulty I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two
+others, and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in
+advance, and he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to
+have him instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other
+native, Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He
+denied the intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to
+him to leave the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not
+understand him; that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so
+far from his own home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to
+Bathurst, and the rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the
+other two, and that he should be kept apart from them during the night.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 111°; at 4 p.m., 112°; at 9,
+101°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 78°.
+
+<p>1ST FEBRUARY.&mdash;This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal
+Graham. Mr. Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police
+station, and make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper
+to Bathurst, his own district, which would put it out of his power to
+molest the party by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it.
+On them this measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh
+calmly observing that Piper had only himself to blame for what had
+befallen him, and that he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook
+also to obtain, if he could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those
+which had died from excessive heat. By that loss our party was left
+almost without dogs; and dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and
+emus, but to afford protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks
+by the natives, in which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were
+approaching, had been rather too successful against various armed parties
+of whites. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., 106°; at
+9 p.m., 88°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 76°.
+
+<p>2ND FEBRUARY.&mdash;The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud
+which appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and
+eagerly watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a
+presage of rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m.,
+106; at 9, 88°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 72°.
+
+<p>3RD FEBRUARY.&mdash;High winds whistled among the trees this morning,
+and dark clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell
+about 9 a.m., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of
+nimbus. The high wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and
+this morning, and in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But
+when the rain began to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which
+quarter the rain seemed to come. With it came a very peculiar smell,
+which I had noticed near Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the
+commencement of the rainy weather there; and nothing could have been
+more welcome to us now, than the prospect of rain, and the decided
+change in the temperature from 115° to 73°. This was almost the first day
+during a month in which the air had not been warmer than our blood;
+often had it been greater than fever heat, so that 73° felt to us as cool as
+50° would have been to a resident of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at
+our camp, but it seemed that rain was falling about the sources of the
+Bogan and other places at which a supply of water was indispensable to
+enable us to proceed. At sunset, glimpses of a clear sky appeared about
+the horizon, and during the night the moon and stars came forth, and
+destroyed all hopes of more rain. We were thankful, however, for the
+relief afforded by what had fallen, which had lowered the temperature
+about 40 degrees, and enabled us to enjoy a night of refreshing rest.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 80°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 68°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+<p>4TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with
+refreshing breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61°. This day
+we had completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the
+tire-rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the
+wheels; the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat,
+as to have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were
+required by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts,
+and the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and
+zeal. Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for
+another effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 89°; at 4 p.m., 89°;
+at 9, 72°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>5TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;This morning the mercurial column stood higher than
+I had yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across
+the sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards
+the northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the
+thermometer never having risen above 96°. By 6 p.m., the barometer had
+fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial
+circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a
+change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not
+only to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 73°; with
+wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>6TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky,
+and shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change
+seemed to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the
+previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and
+at about 7 a.m. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the
+woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer
+had fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue
+through the night. Range of thermometer from 74° to 72°.
+
+<p>7TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the
+mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening.
+About 10 a.m. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke
+through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus.
+Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie,
+Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had
+risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains
+about five inches.
+
+<p>Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for
+Piper's conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back
+a good bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various
+water-courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the
+natives about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 74°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 90°; at 9, 80°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+75°.
+
+<p>8TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air
+made us much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had
+been living, although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air,
+especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry
+heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it
+(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at
+noon, 96°; at 4 p.m., 95°; at 9, 80°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>9TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to
+bestow more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these
+remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It
+appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only
+efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible
+condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a
+vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher
+country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the
+"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for licking
+the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep, lumps of it
+being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it is certain that by
+this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much injured in health and
+condition, losing their appetite for grass, and finally passing clay only, as
+may be seen near such places. In the salt plants on these plains, nature
+has amply provided for this taste of these large herbivora for salt. Our
+sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and the cattle ate greedily of
+various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly salt to the taste. The colour
+of the leaves of such bushes is usually a very light bluish green, and there
+are many species. That with the largest leaves, called salt-bush by
+stockmen, and by Dr. Brown <i>Rhagodia parabolica</i>, was very useful as a
+vegetable after extracting the salt sufficiently from it. This we
+accidentally discovered from some experiments made by Mr.
+Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the proportion of salt
+contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much as a twentieth part
+of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from two pounds of the
+leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the leaves a few minutes
+in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a third water, the leaves
+formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat resembling spinach.
+As the superior excellence of these runs for fattening cattle is admitted
+on all hands, as compared with others more abundant in grass on the
+eastern side of the great range, would it not be advisable for the colonists
+to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and thereby to produce a vegetable
+substitute for the rock salt, which is not only expensive, but only a very
+imperfect remedy for the clay-licking propensities of sheep and cattle on
+many runs? Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 98°; at
+9, 86°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:&mdash;"Two pounds of the
+green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then
+strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted
+to a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint
+of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then
+exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a
+cubic shape having previously been formed."]
+
+<p>10TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an
+animal apparently of the same genus as the <i>Dipus Mitchellii</i>, and which
+seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three
+millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three more.
+A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 p.m. a dark thunder cloud
+came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was very
+loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high, and rain
+heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 p.m., except in the N. E. where
+the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°.
+
+<p>11TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward
+of our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the
+Macquarie. I hoped to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party
+halting on it one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I
+was now convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party
+until it could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it,
+with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp, a
+direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to divide the
+journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I crossed plains
+covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at length obtained a
+sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck Creek (that of Sturt),
+or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the bearing of Mount
+Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined the bed of the
+Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing therein the least
+indication of water, and returned to the camp fully resolved to proceed
+next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little way below Mount
+Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for the cattle to travel
+over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m.,
+76°; at 9, 61°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°. From an average of twenty-five
+observations of the mercurial column, the height of this station has been
+determined to be 566 English feet above the level of the sea.
+
+<p>12TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;We broke up our encampment on Cannonbà ponds,
+where we had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and
+crossing the channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we
+travelled over open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At
+thirteen miles we reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra,"
+a name by which it is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this
+we crossed several branches, from which it would appear as if the name
+was derived from that of the hand, which is the same, especially as
+natives sometimes hold up the hand and extend the fingers, when they
+would express that a river has various branches or sources. I went on
+with an advanced party towards the Macquarie, and encamped on the
+bank of that river at 5 p.m. The thick grass, low forests of yarra trees,
+and finally the majestic blue gum trees along the river margin, reminded
+me of the northern rivers seen during my journey of 1831. Still even the
+bed of this was dry, and I found only two water holes on examining the
+channel for two miles. One of these was, however, deep, and we
+encamped near it, surrounded by excellent grass in great abundance. The
+Macquarie, like other Australian rivers, has a peculiar character, and this
+was soon apparent in the reeds and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy
+plats, and not, as usual in other rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks.
+The channel was here deep and dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by
+Marra Creek, the <i>Acacia salicina</i>, whereof the wood has a strong
+perfume resembling violets, also a new small-leaved <i>Kochia</i> with
+intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9,
+57°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+<p>[* <i>K. thymifolia</i> (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis
+pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-01"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-01.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Flood coming down the Macquarie</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>13TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;I was again laid up with the <i>maladie du pays</i>&mdash;sore
+eyes. Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster,
+and to various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to
+which I required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down.
+But no one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as
+no person had passed that way; the country being more open on the
+eastern side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at
+Gràway, about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the
+west bank. Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the
+mounted police. To my most important question&mdash;what water was to be
+found lower down in the river&mdash;the reply was very satisfactory; namely,
+"plenty, and a <i>flood coming down</i> from the Turmountains." The two
+policemen said they had travelled twenty miles with it, on the day
+previous, and that it would still take some time to arrive near our camp.
+About noon the drays arrived in good order, having been encamped
+where there was no water about six miles short of our camp, the whole
+distance travelled, from Cannonbà to the Macquarie, having been about
+nineteen miles. In the afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the
+river, reported on their return, that the flood poured in upon them when
+in the river bed, so suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed
+of the Macquarie before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I
+could scarcely believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who
+had been put to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I
+stationed a man with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on
+the flood's appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the
+channel nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to
+see, as well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came,
+however, but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp.
+Some hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like
+that of a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking
+timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very slow
+degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw
+various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood
+appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending
+of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene
+moonlight night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of
+waters and loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the
+next bend. It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a
+moving cataract, tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them
+against its banks. It was preceded by a point of meandering water,
+picking its way, like a thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark,
+dry, and shady bed, of what thus again became a flowing river. By my
+party, situated as we were at that time, beating about the country, and
+impeded in our journey, solely by the almost total absence of water
+&mdash;suffering excessively from thirst and extreme heat,&mdash;I am convinced
+the scene never can be forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the
+product of storms in the far off mountains, that overlooked our homes.
+My first impulse was to have welcomed this flood on our knees, for the
+scene was sublime in itself, while the subject&mdash;an abundance of water
+sent to us in a desert&mdash;greatly heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice
+it to say, I had witnessed nothing of such interest in all my Australian
+travels. Even the heavens presented something new, at least uncommon,
+and therefore in harmony with this scene; the variable star ARGUS had
+increased to the first magnitude, just above the beautiful constellation of
+the southern cross, which slightly inclined over the river, in the only
+portion of sky seen through the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly
+increasing in magnitude, might, as characteristic of her rivers, be
+recognized as the star of Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The
+river gradually filled up the channel nearly bank high, while the living
+cataract travelled onward, much slower than I had expected to see it; so
+slowly, indeed, that more than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet
+music of the head of the flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the
+murmur of waters, and the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly
+through the tortuous windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to
+sleep by that melody of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and
+evidently so unwonted in the dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 79°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, 63°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>14TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The river had risen to within six feet of the top of
+the banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but
+no longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion
+downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the
+Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a
+probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing
+the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the
+Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling
+soon into a cart track which led us to Gràway, Mr. Kinghorne's cattlestation,
+and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of the
+river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so
+generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of the
+marshes. The <i>Imperata arundinacea</i>, with its long head of white silky
+flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock,
+on the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P.
+M., 82°; at 9, 72°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 60°. Height above the level of the
+sea, 475 feet.
+
+<p>15TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day,
+and guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have
+his assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other
+objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees
+of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was
+visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon.
+Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most
+formidable impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty
+of these got astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank
+of rather firm ground, in lat. 30° 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on
+some parts of open plains near the marshes, and the best was the
+PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as
+having been found pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we
+could not then discover. Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was
+called by the natives "coolly," and that the gins gather it in great
+quantities, and pound the seeds between stones with water, forming a
+kind of paste or bread; thus was clearly explained the object of those
+heaps of this grass which we had formerly seen on the banks of the
+Darling. There they had formed the native's harvest field. There also I
+observed a brome grass, probably not distinct from the <i>Broods australis</i>
+of Brown; it called to mind the squarrose brome grass of Europe.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 87°; at 4, 89°; at 9, 73°;&mdash;with
+wet bulb, 66°.
+
+<p>[* Vol. i. p. 237.]
+
+<p>16TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to
+examine Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be
+found in it lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with
+the store-keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost
+sheep in the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not
+very far from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the
+flock. Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the
+cattle. We had still the Macquarie at hand&mdash;deep, muddy, and stagnant
+&mdash;not above thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could
+scarcely approach the water without sinking to the knees. We could
+water the horses with buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of
+filling one of the half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means,
+was inevitable, and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a
+wheel required repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these
+reasons found it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly.
+At sunset, Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the
+"Marra," (Duck Creek).
+
+<p>Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the
+<i>Andropogon sericeus</i> and an <i>Erianthus</i>, which appeared to differ from
+<i>E. fulvus</i> in having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the
+European <i>Lythrum salicaria</i>, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among
+the reeds of the Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the
+Thames. We saw also <i>Morgania floribunda</i>, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D.C.),
+a variety with toothed leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling <i>B.
+heterodonta</i>, only the leaves were entire. A new species of <i>Lotus</i>
+appeared among the reeds, very near the narrow-leaved form of <i>L.
+australis</i> on the one hand, and the South European narrow-leaved form
+of <i>L. corniculatus</i> on the other; the flowers were pink, and smaller than
+in <i>L. australis</i>.[*] Also an <i>Ethulia</i> [**], which may, on further examination,
+constitute a new genus; it was found by Allan Cunningham on the
+Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 84°; at 9,
+61°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+<p>[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus v.
+lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3&mdash;6-floris,
+calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-acuminatis tubo
+suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.]
+
+<p>[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo,
+foliis oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis
+globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis
+paucis brevibus.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-06"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-06.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>First use of the boats</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>
+17TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne
+having shown me a few miles more of the best ground between the
+scrubs and reeds, went towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie,
+where a belt of open forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass.
+He prevailed on a native whom he met with there to come with him to
+me, and to guide me to water until I reached the Bàrwan. This native at
+first seemed rather afraid of our numerous party, but our own native,
+Yuranigh, endeavoured by every means to make him at ease, and to
+induce him to remain with us. He guided us this day by fine open ground
+westward of the marshes, to a part of the Macquarie where the banks
+were solid enough to admit of the cattle drinking. The name was
+Bilgawàngara; I reached the spot early, but at sunset no drays had come
+up. At length I was informed that such was the softness of the soil, that
+the drays had sank frequently, that two were fast in one place, four in
+another, and that two of the bullocks were astray. The marshes were said
+to be just then occupied by some angry tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne
+had warned me to be on my guard. The patience necessary to any
+traveller depending on bullocks and bullock drivers, I then thought ought
+to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was very shy, and Yuranigh
+feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for finding water&mdash;on
+our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not have done then to
+have sent him away. The weather might change, and these marshes
+become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of Providence
+in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red Sea. It
+depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be considered
+Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the moon
+had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat. 30° 45'
+55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9,
+60°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+<p>18TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind,
+and the iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The
+cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's journey
+without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of the two
+lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to little
+Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had lost
+them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search, as
+Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of
+entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his
+escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that the
+white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the
+country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere
+child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them
+being young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds.
+
+<p>In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the
+native tobacco, <i>Nicotiana suaveoleus</i>, the <i>Minuria heterophylla</i> (D.C.),
+found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a <i>Fugosia</i> near <i>F.
+digitata</i> of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery <I>Atriplex</I>
+with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 93°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 67°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb 59°.
+
+<p>[* <i>A. nummularia</i> (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis
+alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque
+argenteis, floribus monoïcis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis subrotundis
+dentatis basi connatis.]
+
+<p>19TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;We set off early, guided by our native friend. He
+was a very perfect specimen of the <i>genus homo</i>, and such as never is to
+be seen, except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale
+of graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free
+enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than
+can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod
+animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs; the
+fulness yet perfect elasticity of the <i>glutei</i> muscles. The hollowness of the
+back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso, ornamented
+as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised scarifications most
+tastefully placed; such were some of the characteristics of this perfect
+"piece of work." Compared with it, the civilised animal, when
+considered merely in the light of a specimen in natural history, how
+inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of that class, for such
+teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of sight, hearing, smelling,
+tasting, feeling; for such powers of running, climbing, or walking; for
+such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of all that nature provides
+for her children of the woods. Such health and exemption from disease;
+such intensity of existence, in short, must be far beyond the enjoyments
+of civilised men, with all that art can do for them; and the proof of this is
+to be found in the failure of all attempts to persuade these free denizens
+of uncultivated earth to forsake it for the tilled ground. They prefer the
+land unbroken and free from the earliest curse pronounced against the
+first banished and first created man. The only kindness we could do for
+them, would be to let them and their wide range of territory alone; to act
+otherwise and profess good-will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the
+land without producing a change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that
+which took place on man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have
+hitherto lived utterly ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or
+the utility of ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would,
+no doubt, prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to
+original sin, even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were
+the reflections suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped
+on lightly before me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our
+party, who, muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in
+favour of our pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our
+faithful Yuranigh was all that could be wished. He was assiduously
+making to the stranger such explanations of our wants and purposes, as
+induced him to conduct us in the direction these required. He led us, thus
+admonished, over those parts of the country most favourable for the
+passage of wheels. The rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts
+were covered with most luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a
+salt-bush plain, where there was a small pond of water left by the last
+rains on a clay surface. There was certainly enough for ourselves and
+horses, but it appeared that our guide had greatly underrated the capacity
+for water, of our hundred bullocks. For these, however, there was superb
+grass to the westward, and a little dew fell on it during the night.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 104°; at 9, 77°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+<p>20TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as
+possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather soft,
+otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the westward,
+and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow belts of
+reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great satisfaction to
+learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A shallow creek
+appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide had expected to
+find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently drank up there,
+what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He showed us
+the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were made to feel,
+in common with the aborigines, those privations to which they are
+exposed by the white man's access to their country. On proceeding some
+miles further, our guide following down the channel, he at length
+appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe, on which
+Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and there, in
+fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in the
+attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wámmerawá,
+the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and
+marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds
+may have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from
+the "balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan,
+Murrumbidgee, and Millewà; the former being a cane or bamboo, the
+latter a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found
+good grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was
+fringed with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little <i>Kochia brevifolia</i>
+observed at Mudá on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the
+spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the
+teams of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been
+damaged; the six others were brought up in the course of the evening.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at 9, 78°;&mdash;with wet
+bulb, 68°.
+
+<p>21ST FEBRUARY.&mdash;The first thing done this morning was to send back
+cattle to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it
+might be repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the
+journey by 1 p.m. The barometer was going down at a rate which was
+alarming enough, considering what our position must have been there in
+a flood, or even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward
+with the light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 p.m. to
+"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again,
+he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden
+the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water
+that night, nor until we could reach the Bàrwan, then distant, I was quite
+sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude observed (30°
+19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back directions that the
+drays should at once halt, taking their places beside the leading dray, and
+that the cattle should be driven back in the morning to be watered at the
+last camp (Warranb), and then to return and follow in my track. Mr.
+Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to serve out a week's
+rations to the party with the drays, and he returned to my camp by 2 A.
+M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the former messenger,
+rations for my party. Here we found the <i>Keraudrenia integrifolia</i>.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 105°; at 9, 83°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>22D FEBRUARY.&mdash;My guide was now desirous that I should cross the
+Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more
+favourable for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by
+drawing lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would
+cross and impede my journey to the Bàrwan. There were the Castlereagh,
+Morissett's Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct,
+which it was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least
+fifty miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.]
+
+<p>An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the
+necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in
+communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills
+which partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was
+Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that
+some flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we
+might therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie.
+This, with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made
+intelligible to our Bàrwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly.
+He took us through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water
+usually lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay
+happens to be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But
+the water in these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled
+into hard clay by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first
+become sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots,
+where nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are
+well known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and
+such places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by
+the most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can
+exist apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers.
+Cattle find these places and come from stations often many miles distant,
+attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus
+treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy
+the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the
+kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more
+disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain
+every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot" should
+appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually happened
+to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want of
+water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110°. The store-keeper was
+taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and the fate of
+the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the sheep, which had not
+drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to me at that time. It
+may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at length saw before me
+large basins of water in the channel of the Macquarie, when I next
+approached the banks, after a journey at a good pace for six hours and a
+half. We had made it below the junction of Morissett's Ponds, and found
+that a recent flood had filled its channel with water. The natives dived
+into it to cure their headaches, as they said, and seemed to go completely
+under water, in order to take a cool drink. We had reached the united
+channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's Ponds, and were at an easy
+day's journey only distant from the junction with the <i>Bàrwan</i> or
+"Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this river is indispensable
+amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not appear to know it to be
+the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to such rivers their proper
+names as early as possible after they have been ascertained, were it only
+to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves of the intelligence and
+assistance of the natives, in identifying the country by means of the
+published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to the natives as the
+Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wàwill; and the lower part of the
+Macquarie, as the Wammerawà. The squatting system of occupation
+requires still more that the native names of rivers should be known to
+commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast
+extent, whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach
+or control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line the
+squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 110°; at 4 p.m., 107°; at 9, 89°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb 72°.
+
+<p>23RD FEBRUARY.&mdash;The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence
+of them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I
+had sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to
+send forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought
+me word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the
+morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him.
+They had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the
+water, as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was
+excessive, a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the
+banks of the Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus <i>Scleroloena</i>
+was remarked; it was perhaps not distinct from S. <I>Uniflora</I>. The
+<i>Goodenia geniculata</i> overran the ground, with its strawberry-like
+runners, and yellow flowers. Latitude, 30° 12' 56" S. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 75°; at noon, 105°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 73°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+<p>24TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Some of the teams came up, having been out all
+night. The drivers brought me word that they had been detached at
+twilight to come six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could
+not see my track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks
+had strayed from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of
+delay by the bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey
+(thirteen miles) of the Bàrwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days,
+and really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers
+seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 80°; at 4
+p.m., 85°; at 9, 64°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>25TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the
+stray bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a
+bullock driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the
+track of the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 53°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 79°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+<p>26TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only
+one of the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace
+twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the
+day; he said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in
+with. I blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him
+forthwith on foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we
+were doomed to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by
+carrying on the mapping of our survey, in order to make good our
+longitude at crossing the Bàrwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon,
+94°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 72°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 62.°
+
+<p>27TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;When the teams were about to be put to the drays
+this morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed
+the party until 10 a.m., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I
+reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a
+proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such
+unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground,
+having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about six
+miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and said
+they called that the "Bàrwan." As it was still a mere chain of ponds,
+though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel; he
+also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was
+convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the
+channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the
+junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it,
+however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after
+him, to rejoin the party.
+
+<p>I this day gave "Yulliyàlly," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe,
+tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne,
+certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 62°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, 70°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>28TH FEBRUARY.&mdash;The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp
+at 6 a.m., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost
+bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came
+upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a
+stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawà, on which I had been
+encamped, joined the Bàrwan, then on my right, within two miles of the
+spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr.
+Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and
+on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna,
+Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Bàrwan. I
+turned with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Bàrwan, and
+encamped thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which
+our exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a
+good current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like
+a river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good
+ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had
+been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the
+cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of
+Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which
+we had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot
+weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 101°; at 4 p.m., 100°; at 9,
+with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>[* <i>Calotis scapigera</i> (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus
+radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis
+robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.&mdash;A very
+distinct species. Habit of <i>Brachystephium scapigerum</i> D. C.: but that
+ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in
+proportion to the size of the capitulum.]
+
+<p>1ST MARCH.&mdash;When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher
+point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or
+bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we
+found it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot
+season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle
+stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary
+arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed
+quite unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length
+arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many
+rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final outlet
+or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch one
+might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the same
+river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood had
+gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast
+regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another
+instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more
+apparent to man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or
+attentively examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to
+him. The very slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains
+seems finely adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this
+part of the earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern
+coastranges were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of
+sustained current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such
+inclined channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread
+into a net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill
+lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous
+channel, would at once run off into the ocean.
+
+<p>[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been
+wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as <i>caràwy</i>, which the
+name resembles, means any deep water-hole.]
+
+<p>In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route
+with our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have
+preferred, and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the
+known limits of this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which
+the route necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had
+not lost time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over
+very considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more
+desirable to any country we might discover, than one liable to be
+interrupted by flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of
+our drays, along the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a
+new and direct route from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by
+way of Bathurst; and afforded access to a vast extent of excellent
+pasturage on the Macquarie, along the western margin of the marshes,
+which land would, no doubt, be soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a
+climate, and where water is so frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found
+that the shortest line of route with such advantages would be more
+frequented than any longer line, possessing only the remote advantage of
+security from interruption by too much water. Thermometer at sunrise,
+64°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 81°; with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>2ND MARCH&mdash;MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyàbry,
+(Mr. Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays,
+although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better
+approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so
+attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without
+some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I
+sent some men to the last-mentioned work.
+
+<p>I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the rivers
+Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains
+having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the
+Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to
+guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a
+distance of only seven miles beyond the Bàrwan there at the "Morella
+Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain
+seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were very
+fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously ascertained
+to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr. Lindley
+<i>Capparis Mitchellii</i>.[*] We found back from this camp the <i>Rutidosis
+helychrysoides</i> of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at noon,
+101°; at 4 p.m.; 100°; at 9, 78°; and with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.]
+
+<p>3D MARCH.&mdash;Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better
+approaches to the ford across the Bàrwan at Mr. Parnell's station.
+Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and
+Darling at our present camp to be 147° 33' 45" E., by actual
+measurements connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr.
+Kennedy had chained the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had
+connected his work with latitudes observed at almost every encampment,
+and after determining at various points the magnetic variation, which
+appeared to be very steady, I made the latitude of this camp 30° 6' 11"
+south. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 99°; at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9,
+72°; and with wet bulb, 65°. The height above the sea level of the bed of
+the river here, the average result of eight observations, as calculated by
+Capt. King, was 415 feet.
+
+<p>4TH MARCH.&mdash;The party moved off towards the ford over the Bàrwan
+at Wyàbry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its
+junction with the Bàrwan; there, although the approaches had been well
+enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of
+which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft
+and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which
+earth was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived
+about noon at Wyàbry, and by 2 p.m. the whole was safely encamped on
+the right bank of the Bàrwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from
+my son, commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most
+favourable account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of
+my proposed route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the
+hands of a native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr.
+Lawson, being then on his way down the river, had promised to send
+them to me, from a station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke,
+where it had been supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30°
+5' 41" S. On this northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in
+botany, and found some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of
+<i>Senerio brachyloenus</i> D. C., a kind of groundsel; <i>Morgania floribunda</i>,
+loaded with purple blossoms, and a variety of <i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i>,
+somewhat different in the leaves from the usual state of the species.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at 4 p.m., 98°; at 9, 72°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+61°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-07"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-07.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map III. The Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter03"></a>
+<h4>Chapter III.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,&mdash;GUIDED
+BY TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.&mdash;PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.&mdash;ARRIVE AT PONDS
+OR SPRINGS CALLED "CARÀWY."&mdash;DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.&mdash;REACH
+THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.&mdash;BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART
+OF SWAMP,&mdash;WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.&mdash;SWAMP VERY
+EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.&mdash;NEW PLANTS.&mdash;RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.&mdash;THE SWAMP THE LAST
+RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.&mdash;BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.&mdash;THE WHOLE PARTY
+CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,&mdash;CROSSING TO THE LEFT
+BANK.&mdash;ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.&mdash;RICH
+GRASS ON THE NARRAN.&mdash;ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.&mdash;AGAIN
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.&mdash;PARLEY WITH A
+NATIVE.&mdash;TWO NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.&mdash;APPROACH
+THE ASSEMBLED POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.&mdash;INTERVIEW WITH THE
+TRIBES.&mdash;CORDIAL RECEPTION.&mdash;CROSS THE BALONNE,&mdash;AND REACH THE
+CULG.&mdash;CIVILITY OF THE NATIVES.&mdash;CROSS THE CULG.&mdash;TRAVEL UP ALONG THE
+RIGHT BANK OF THE BALONNE.&mdash;GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.&mdash;THE OLD DELAY,
+CATTLE MISSING.&mdash;A NATIVE SCAMP.&mdash;SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.&mdash;DÉPÔT
+CAMP AT A NATURAL BRIDGE.&mdash;RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.&mdash;RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM
+SYDNEY.&mdash;RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.</blockquote>
+
+<p>5TH MARCH.&mdash;Early this morning the stockman brought over two
+natives, brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the
+Narran, which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles
+we passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the
+left, which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of
+conglomerate rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains
+of quartz cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become
+undulating ground as we proceeded northward, and the surface became
+firmer. At length the country opened into slight undulations, well clothed
+with grass, and good for travelling over, the soil being full of the same
+hard rock found on the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the
+lowest parts of that river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed
+to be but the decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles
+of quartz so thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places
+so thickly as to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses
+grew on those plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm
+undulating stony surface and open character of the country, where I had
+expected to see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight
+elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a
+name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations <i>too low</i> to
+be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of
+route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much
+novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The <i>Angophora lanceolata</i>
+was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some
+very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the <i>Acacia
+stenophylla</i> of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such
+profusion as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I
+supposed it was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another
+place many of the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and
+learnt from our guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat
+resembled that of the Cachou nut of the Brazils,&mdash;Mùnumulà is the
+native name. The grasses comprised a great variety, and amongst the
+plants a beautiful little <I>Brunonia</I>, not more than four inches high, with
+smaller flower-heads than those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely
+at all lobed, and a hairy indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although
+the fruit had been gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown,
+was also here; and I saw one or two trees of a species of <i>Capparis</i>. Mr.
+Stephenson found a great variety of new insects also.
+
+<p>[* <i>B. simplex</i> (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque
+longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,
+bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]
+
+<p>Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some
+verdant grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water;
+and here we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds
+were called "Caràwy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to
+pass on towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed,
+twenty-five miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some
+natives running off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we
+should do them no harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake
+them. The undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and
+west in their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general
+course of the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in
+other parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the
+fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much
+resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these
+springs we found a new <i>Helichrysum</i>.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 79°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+<p>[* <i>Helichrysum ramosissimum</i> (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde
+ramosum arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis
+acutis, capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri
+squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]
+
+<p>6TH MARCH.&mdash;The drays not having come up, in consequence of the
+excessive length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather&mdash;(16½
+miles by latitude alone)&mdash;we were obliged to remain inactive here on a
+beautiful cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of
+fresh branches of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted
+home of the fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods
+of the acacia already mentioned (<i>Mùnumulà</i>). The water was surrounded
+by fresh herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such
+the home whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable
+guides, I could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon
+trample these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding
+verdure and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured
+but acute guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid
+race.
+
+<p>[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may <i>laugh</i> inwardly&mdash;conscience
+may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]
+
+<p>All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our
+drays&mdash;the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting
+before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be
+watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question;
+and this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward
+to ask if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly
+exhausted. The fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in
+the morning, after passing a night without water, had been adopted, and
+as, on the day before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of
+reaching my camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly
+directed them to be brought forward; but the consequence of this
+derangement was the death of one, and much injury to many others. This
+contretemps arose wholly from the guides not having been understood at
+the Barwan as to the real distance, and this we had calculated too surely
+upon. Latitude 29° 52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68°; at noon,
+96°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 83°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+<p>7TH MARCH, 1846.&mdash;The bullocks having been sent back after they had
+been watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 a.m. I left them in
+Mr. Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all
+the bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that
+had been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more.
+The guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had
+understood when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles
+from these springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the
+country to improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the
+most open parts of scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend
+clearly how desirable that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after
+travelling about seven miles, they pointed to a line of trees as the
+"Narran," beyond an extensive open country, which had a singular
+appearance from being higher than that we were upon. We crossed one or
+two slight elevations wholly composed of compact felspar in blocks
+&mdash;forming ridges resembling an outcrop of strata, whereof the strike
+always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious new plants and fruits
+appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of which was a very
+pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread over several
+yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an elongated egg;
+it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the natives
+"Doobàh." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best roasted. As we
+approached the elevated country between us and the distant line of trees,
+we perceived that the vast level was covered with <i>Polygonum junceum</i> in
+a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as I had never seen
+elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called it, which looks ever
+quite dry and withered along the margins of the Darling. We had good
+reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we found amongst it
+pure water in great abundance, into which all our native companions
+immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This, they said,
+was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the name of
+Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps. They
+seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and pointed
+to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran was there.
+I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the nearest trees
+beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft mud,
+precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of
+bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now
+far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a
+position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the
+intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare materials
+for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a small
+clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did not
+encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by the
+westward, in which direction the open country extended to the horizon.
+The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by wet
+ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where
+horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had
+been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water
+until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.
+Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward
+to the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all
+the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays
+there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense
+heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the
+day, rose to 103° in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp,
+29° 45' 51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m., 97°;
+at 9, 69°; ditto with wet bulb, 57°. The height of this camp above the sea,
+the average of five registered observations, is 442 feet.
+
+<p>8TH MARCH.&mdash;The view northward from our present camp was most
+extensive. Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual
+appearance there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet
+still the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between
+that slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been
+so scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great
+distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no
+longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I set
+the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the
+muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed
+it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,
+beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp
+came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before us,
+which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the southward,
+was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual rock, felspar;
+and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded the further
+progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended north-west,
+as most others did in this extensive basin; and this direction being nearly
+parallel to that of the coast ranges further northward, seemed to afford
+additional reason for expecting to find anticlinal and synclinal lines, and,
+consequently, rivers, much in the same direction. D'Urban's group,
+distant 150 miles lower down the Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock,
+exactly similar to this, exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into
+irregular polygons, some of the faces being curved. This rock is most
+extensively distributed in the interior of New South Wales. It was not
+until the evening of this day that the approach of the drays was
+announced, and then prematurely, the teams only having been brought
+forward to the water without them. So weak were the unfortunate
+animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the numbers, could they
+be made to draw the drays forward, for the short distance of eight miles;
+a distance which we had been given to understand was so much greater.
+Forward, all was most promising, and it may be imagined how bitterly I
+regretted the alteration of my original plan of equipment, which had
+reference to horses and light carts alone. A new species of <I>Anthistiria</I>
+occurred here, perfectly distinct from the kangaroo grass of the colony,
+very like <i>Apluda mutica</i>, and remarkable for the smooth shining
+appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The <i>Trichinium
+alopecuroideum</i>, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its long
+silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very curious
+new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of <i>Cyperus</i>; the <i>Trichinium lanatum</i>
+in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed (<I>Calamagrostis</I> of
+England), and which proved to be the little-known <i>Triraphis mollis</i>. On
+the margin of the morass the <i>Dactyloctenium radulans</i>, spreading over
+the interstices, reminded the traveller of the grasses of Egypt; and, in
+stony ground near the morass, we observed the <i>Justicia media</i> of Brown.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 66°; at noon, 98°; at 4 p.m. 102°; at 9, 81°;
+ditto with wet bulb, 74°.
+
+<p>[* <i>A. membranacea</i> (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine
+membranaceis foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis
+pedicellatis (masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, aristâ glaberrimâ glumâ
+3plo longiore.]
+
+<p>[** <i>K. lanosa</i> (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis
+cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]
+
+<p>9TH MARCH.&mdash;My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to
+return, and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be
+extremely useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went
+forward this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our
+interpreter, all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine
+reaches of water appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to
+the northward, but which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp,
+abruptly terminated like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it
+went to, they pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp
+as the final depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the
+contents of a river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate
+so hot and dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which
+led us nearly due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on
+a good gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing
+a slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the
+shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we again
+came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for
+about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and
+lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and
+with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent
+grass. The <i>Panicum loevinode</i> of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a
+grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of
+paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly for
+the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles. I
+counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass
+only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow
+back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a very
+open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any other part
+of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of the natives;
+and these children of the soil were doing every thing in their power to
+assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the white man's
+cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives during the
+whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and I to see
+them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and not at all
+unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce us to the
+inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us further.
+The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost to
+prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 99°; at 4
+p.m., 105°; at 9, 83°; ditto with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>10TH MARCH.&mdash;Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I
+continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but
+with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,
+through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the
+river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc. We
+were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no
+perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had
+examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and
+the dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and
+banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide
+said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp
+we kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.
+This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water
+our horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,
+under a temperature of 105° in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently
+about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of
+perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on the
+level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very tired,
+however, and pointed to the large muscles of the <i>Rectus femoris</i> as if they
+pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the drays that
+had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring double
+teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity of our
+camp we found the <i>Trichinium alopecuroideum</i>, with heads of flowers
+nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near <i>E. pulverulenta</i>, but having
+more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall
+glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy <I>Kochia</I> was
+intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77°; at noon,
+102°; at 4, 107°; at 9, 76°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+<p>[* <i>H. glauca</i> (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis
+oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grossè serratis, racemis apice
+aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]
+
+<p>[** <i>K. villosa</i> (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus
+villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]
+
+<p>11TH MARCH.&mdash;All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives,
+the tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the
+stockman on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that
+they had been very useful. I this morning examined the country to the
+westward of the swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could
+pass, and so avoid much soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the
+watery Narran penetrated into the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting
+there little hollows full of rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so
+unwonted amongst rocks characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one
+little hollow, to the westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two
+men with a pickaxe and shovel to have continued it through, and so to
+have opened a new channel for the passage of the waters of the Narran
+swamp, into the dry country between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 55°; at noon, 105°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 75°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+59°.
+
+<p>12TH MARCH.&mdash;I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the
+jaded bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses
+I might have continued the journey. The very extensive country before
+us, which appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and
+irrigated by little canals winding amongst <i>Polygonum junceum</i>. This
+open country appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles,
+thence to turn eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to
+the Barwan. I regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to
+admit of our tracing its limits to the eastward.
+
+<p>This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he
+strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and
+Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river
+which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,
+almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was already
+on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his account of the
+rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged to depend,
+even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.
+
+<p>This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two
+platforms, to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp,
+could be passed without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the
+drays. The sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (<i>Callitris
+pyramidalis</i>), found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen
+feet long, two feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long,
+fixed at each end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled
+a wooden railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry
+both wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was
+filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,
+alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to
+support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge
+or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 107°;
+at 9, 70°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>13TH MARCH.&mdash;The party once more moved onward, and the drays
+trundled across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in
+the event of an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable
+on our return. Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing
+over a gravelly bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The
+drays were slow in arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft
+and hollow, but by sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on
+the Narran. Thermometer at sunrise, 71°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 100°;
+at 9, 71°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 65°. The height of this camp above the sea,
+according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.
+
+<p>14TH MARCH.&mdash;We now had before us water and grass in abundance,
+to a distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I
+intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five miles,
+that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work, might
+have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however, again
+occurred to impede us,&mdash;three bullocks were reported missing. Now it
+was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It really
+seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on
+bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until 9
+a.m., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran,
+after travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found
+the fragrant <i>Jasminum lineare</i> in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a
+bulb which proved to be the <i>Anthericum bulbosum</i> of Brown; a shrub ten
+feet high, in fruit, the <i>Canthium oleifolium</i> of Sir William Hooker; a fine
+new <i>Chenopodium</i>, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*];
+and a hoary variety of <i>Acacia leptoclada</i>, or perhaps a distinct species,
+having a good deal of the aspect of <i>A. dealbata</i>, but the leaves and glands
+nearer those of <i>A. leptoclada</i>, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 81°;&mdash;with wet
+bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>[* <i>C. auricomum</i> (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,
+foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis
+lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris
+tomentosis.]
+
+<p>15TH MARCH.&mdash;The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding,
+that the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without
+great difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the
+drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a
+process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not until
+1 a.m. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought to the
+camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the field of
+discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were
+unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive
+heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks
+unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter
+party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,
+leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depôt, on
+some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29° 38' 21" south.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 73°; at noon, 84°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at 9, 65°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 60°.
+
+<p>16TH MARCH.&mdash;I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend
+of the Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant
+grass. The drays arrived by 11 a.m. in such good order, that I was
+induced to try whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short
+journeys, the party could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I
+could leave the whole in one depôt, to rest and refresh, while I took my
+intended ride forward. Latitude, 29° 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise,
+43°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 87°; at 9, 62°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+<p>17TH MARCH.&mdash;I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward
+as well as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the
+progress of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains
+were evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered
+wholly impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29° 29'
+11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 87°; at 4 p.m., 91°; at 9,
+62°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>18TH MARCH.&mdash;Again we made out a short journey over rather soft
+ground; all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising
+ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,
+at a distance of 2½ miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual
+conglomerate decomposed&mdash;of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch
+in bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly
+ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.
+Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked,
+upon the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris
+forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.
+From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a good
+direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony ground I
+found a new <I>Pittosporum</I> five feet high, with long narrow leaves, in the
+way of <i>P. roeanum</i> and <I>Angustifolium</I>, but distinct from both in the form
+of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29° 25' 21". Thermometer at sunrise, 53°;
+at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 69°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>[* <i>P. salicinum</i> (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis
+acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus, fructibus
+subglobosis vix compressis.]
+
+<p>19TH MARCH.&mdash;Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank,
+our course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after
+travelling six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for
+the drays, but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward,
+and I contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again,
+by travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been
+marked out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found
+a fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five
+miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it, I
+returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude
+observed, 29° 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at
+9, 71°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>20TH MARCH.&mdash;Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we
+proceeded in a nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than
+we had recently traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found
+amongst much excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of
+Anthistiria appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort,
+although this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains
+westward of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of
+moisture. Here, however, this variety presented the same knotty head,
+where other grasses grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme
+eastern turn of the Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks
+appeared in the bed, as if the river was passing through the stock of the
+gravelly ridge I had visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found
+about the basin of the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much
+felspar, and having pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of
+the conglomerate in the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at
+the edges. Here the poor natives had been very industrious, as was
+evident from heaps of the grass <i>Panicum loevinode</i>, and of the same redstalked
+coral-like plant, also mentioned as having been observed in
+similar heaps, on the banks of the Darling, during my journey of 1835
+(vol. i. p. 238). I now ascertained that the seed of the latter is also
+collected by the natives and made into a paste. This seed was black and
+small, resembling fine gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was
+sweet and pleasant to the taste, possessing a nutty flavour.
+
+<p>The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in
+these forests&mdash;the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft
+smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil bore
+the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and amongst them
+those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with the prints
+likewise of other <i>bipeds</i>, such as emus and kangaroos, and also those of
+the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other animals all
+new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man alone were
+familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other animals,
+simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much afraid of
+us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed strange, that in a
+climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise, the circumstances
+of man's existence should be the most degrading. Latitude of our camp,
+29° 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m.,
+101°; at 9, 70°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 65°. The mean elevation above the sea
+of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in number, was 477 feet; the
+bed of the river being about 15 feet lower.
+
+<blockquote>[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To kailyards green,<br>
+While faithless snaws ilk step betray<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Whar she has been."&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   <I>Burns</I>.]</blockquote>
+
+<p>21ST MARCH.&mdash;Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming
+favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some
+traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner
+Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded
+the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to
+his map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with
+gently sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances
+induced me to cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward,
+until meeting with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran,
+where we encamped in latitude 29° 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+56°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 72°; ditto with wet bulb, 66°.
+
+<p>22D MARCH.&mdash;Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the
+surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on
+Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded
+rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At
+one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a
+ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of
+compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which
+large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial
+decomposition of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them
+once more to the action of water. The force of those waters, however,
+had not been sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending
+right across their course&mdash;a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps,
+of a river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and
+terminating in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 95°; at 4
+p.m., 98°; at 9, 72°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 66°. Height above the sea, 515
+feet, from eight observations.
+
+<p>23RD MARCH.&mdash;All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,
+soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,
+almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we
+pursued a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the
+Narran at 8½ miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,
+especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small
+bush bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among
+the sedges by the river we found the <i>Kyllinga monocephala</i>; and, on the
+rich black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with
+large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small
+bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of
+Brown's <i>Santalum oblongatum,</i> or a new species distinguished by its
+narrow sharp-pointed leaves. The <i>Loranthus lineari</i>. <I>Folius</I> was growing
+on the rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by
+the parasitical <i>orange loranth</i>.[*] Lat., 29°1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,
+51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 99°; at 9, 70°;&mdash;wet bulb, 63°.
+
+<p>[* <i>L. aurantiacus</i> (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus, foliis
+oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve acuminatis
+glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio brevioribus ditrichotomis,
+floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis superne latioribus
+truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem geniculato, stigmate
+dilatato truncato.&mdash;W. J. H.]
+
+<p>24TH MARCH.&mdash;We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach
+the Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the
+Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to the
+northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn
+towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far
+from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary to
+descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn
+pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we
+had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low
+range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,
+covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller the
+most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached the
+Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had
+travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it
+was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the cattle
+should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to lose one
+day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals. Casuarinae
+now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks of the
+Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods we
+passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a
+different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the
+colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be
+a broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.
+We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,
+GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having
+long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*] The
+rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with
+yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed
+from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed
+amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,
+with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the
+bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.
+
+<p>[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus
+pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]
+
+<p>[** LORANTHUS LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus acutis
+carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus bifloris,
+calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6 linearibus supra
+basin coalitis.]
+
+<p>The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked
+Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29° 6' 33"
+S.; therm. at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 74°; ditto with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+<p>25TH MARCH.&mdash;The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.
+Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate
+journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I
+found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its
+course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges
+on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came
+from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued
+northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed
+through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence
+descending in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs,
+and only reached the river after riding 2½ miles in that direction. I saw
+a continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river
+bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where
+the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who
+did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from
+him, and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a
+beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on the
+bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back, until
+within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of the
+party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a species
+of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct. The teams
+brought the drays in, about 5 p.m.; one animal of all being missing.
+Therm. at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 89°; at 4 p.m., 91°; at 9, 60°;&mdash;with
+wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>26TH MARCH.&mdash;Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in
+search of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and
+proceeded along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the
+party, having found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late
+encampment. The natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having
+previously set fire to the grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their
+fires, and encamped on the river bank in lat. 29° 1' 57" S.
+
+<p>A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow
+portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of
+withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the
+ashes of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass
+(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but
+constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the
+only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired on
+our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to
+drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both these
+kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me one of
+their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum, and tied
+with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it carefully where
+he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m.,
+95°; at 9, 69°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 60°. The mean height above the sea of
+the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet.
+
+<p>27TH MARCH.&mdash;Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,
+which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks
+after a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the
+vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought
+by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more
+decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses
+against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the
+plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew
+abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of the
+POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the
+immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an
+infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes happened,
+other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me to a
+distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great novelty to
+us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long before we
+crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang fruit
+(FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed that
+we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as the
+quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat. 28°
+55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 89; at 9,
+70°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>28TH MARCH.&mdash;At 2 a.m., loud thunder was heard in the south-west,
+where a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops
+of rain fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from
+S. W. Thermometer at sunrise, 56°. We proceeded, travelling chiefly
+amongst very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the
+westward of my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when
+on the other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its
+banks after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to
+place the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance,
+managed to prevent him from running away. He spoke only
+"Jerwoolleroy," a dialect which my native did not understand at all well.
+He told us, however, that this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to
+the Balonne. Upon the whole we gathered from him that neither that
+river nor the Bokhara was far from us. I endeavoured to convince him,
+by Youranigh's assurances, and our own civility to him, that we meant no
+harm to any natives, and were only passing through the country. He did
+not seem afraid, although he had never, until then, seen white men. We
+encamped near him. The river channel was very narrow, and contained
+but little water here-abouts. I understood from the native (through
+Youranigh) that the river here spread into various channels, and that
+"BARRO" was the name of a river beyond the Culg, which falls into it
+from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the lagoon on which we encamped
+after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near this camp we found a
+PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a SESBANIA near
+S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM AURICOMUM,
+formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 56°; at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 61°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+56°.
+
+<p>29TH MARCH.&mdash;After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr.
+Kennedy forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a
+more direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied
+by one of the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He
+returned in about four hours, having found the river coming from the
+northward, and he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 51°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>30TH MARCH.&mdash;The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at
+sunrise only 42°. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on
+over fine grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At
+length, about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there
+was one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only
+see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running north.
+We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran, after a
+journey of about eight miles.
+
+<p>We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species
+of eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and
+other parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at
+4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 61°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°. Mean height of the camps
+of the 27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet.
+
+<p>31ST MARCH.&mdash;The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed
+across the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary
+to see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not
+of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,
+branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main
+channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it again.
+Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every respect
+the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by observing
+the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of the current.
+We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with some
+lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I
+wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the
+ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where
+was the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were
+heard immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh
+and then to me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other
+was a lad of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne
+(BALONGO) as quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was
+quite evident from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper
+native name, but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an
+article they very often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in
+speaking of the Barwan, they say "Barwàngo." I had nearly completed
+the usual short journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was
+unwilling to lose the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on
+under their guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for
+the camp. This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them
+Tooningora, nearly on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with
+ducks. We had passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native
+friends, and over a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from
+scrub. It was evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I
+continued to follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the
+party to encamp, in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and
+the river Balonne. After going forward thus about four miles, we saw
+five gins running off at a great distance across some open plains,
+apparently near the river. The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I
+requested him to assure them that the white men would do no harm, and
+to tell them not to run away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared
+to carry unseemly loads across their backs, dangling under large
+opossum-skin cloaks, and it was evident that these were mummied
+bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but had not before seen it. I had
+then but a distant view of these females, as they resumed their flight, and
+continued it until they reached woods bounding the plain on the
+westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great Balonne river ran parallel
+to our march westward, and there also, according to my guides, was
+"Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and which spot I most
+anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials. Still my guides led
+westward towards the woods, and as we approached them, the shout or
+scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan, follower of my camp,
+first drew my attention to a black phalanx within the forest, of natives
+presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my interpreter halted and
+remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on his reaching that body,
+the sound of gruff voices that arose from it strongly reminded me of
+Milton's description of Satan's army:</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Their rising all at once was as the sound<br>
+Of thunder heard remote."</blockquote>
+
+<p>Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by
+the other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those
+fellows were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our
+footsteps to the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo.
+Our guide soon overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange
+natives, who, all curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they
+brought with them a lad named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and
+had visited many of our cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to
+Youranigh, who but very imperfectly understood the language of the rest.
+They seemed upon the whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food
+consisted of the fish of the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon,
+CUCUMIS PUBESCENS, which grew in such abundance, that the whole
+country seemed strewed with the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives
+eat great quantities, and were very fond. It is about the size of a plum
+only, and in the journal of my first interior journey (in 1831), is
+mentioned as a cucumber we were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude
+of camp, 28° 38' 47" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at
+9, 61°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>1ST APRIL.&mdash;The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 a.m.,
+still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne.
+On our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy
+hollows could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in
+due form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party
+to halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on
+the right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other
+women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared,
+formed a circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to
+me. I desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way
+across the Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb
+them, etc. When all was said that could be said, and I was about to
+return, one of the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he
+must have learnt at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I
+returned the compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave.
+Soon after, we arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river
+as I have seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a
+slight current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less
+elevated above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel
+surpassed that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.
+
+<p>We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was
+"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the
+natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,
+having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the
+first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had
+gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where
+he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered
+his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's
+conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to
+go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe, to
+other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without
+claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at
+such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us
+strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts of
+civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather rare. He
+had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the danger of
+sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our introduction by
+him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the bullock-drivers,
+found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut the banks, and
+fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches, and earth, for the
+better passage of the drays; a work they completed before night. I rode
+about five miles beyond the river to the north-west, and met, first with a
+very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level with the plains, and
+apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this, a river or chain of
+ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained was called the
+Càwan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The country was
+rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees, and the
+plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the Balonne,
+28° 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 79°;
+at 9, 60;&mdash;with wet bulb, 54°. Height of the bed of the Balonne above
+the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three observations.
+
+<p>2D APRIL.&mdash;All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning
+in good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little
+bridge we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place
+seemed to me so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find
+some of the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the
+natives on this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks
+made by white men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank
+of the river, and was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns,"
+the other with "Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was
+really at or near the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell
+had crossed, and found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles
+north-west, I determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that
+river, taking my track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad
+lagoon.
+
+<p>On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with
+hoop nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He
+returned accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin,
+who had been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his
+nets, and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct
+us to the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a
+detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a
+word of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to
+overcome the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives,
+and their shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become
+our guide. He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles
+from the Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service
+and true civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron
+tomahawk, and I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for
+him to keep. He then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five
+miles off. This river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed
+than, the one we had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a
+principal river, and really looked more important than the Barwan,
+except that its waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees
+overhang the banks, and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I
+should say that these and much sand were the chief characteristics of the
+Culgoa. There were no recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed
+that they did not much frequent that part of the river. The grass along the
+banks was very luxuriant. Latitude 28° 31' 19" south. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 39°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 50°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+46°. The height of this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet
+above the bed of the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations.
+
+<p>3RD APRIL.&mdash;The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the
+banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our
+heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,
+however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 35°; at noon, 80°.; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 49°; and
+with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>4TH APRIL.&mdash;We were now to proceed along the right bank of the
+Culgoa upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending
+along the right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was
+favourable to our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in
+exploring that river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we
+had crossed the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the
+south, to this river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and
+Fort Bourke. That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable,
+had the rains set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over
+the dry, firm ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the
+left bank of the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season,
+indeed more conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had
+fallen at this time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern
+interior; but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for
+some degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the
+Commissioner of the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we
+should arrive at a better watered country.
+
+<p>Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which
+grew luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us
+of the banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact
+counterpart, only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa
+was more easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles
+northward, I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found
+the river. We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch
+biting into the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached
+the Balonne Major, or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from
+the Minor Balonne, both of which we had already crossed, and which ran
+thus, as from our camp the lines of trees along each of the minor
+channels were distinctly visible.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-08"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-08.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Separation of the Balonne into the Culgoa, Narran, etc.</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>The character of these rivers had been described to me by
+Commissioner Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the
+drays came in, and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind,
+having been suddenly attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged
+in the survey of our route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had
+somewhat abated, but still this complaint, which we had attributed to it,
+had lately affected many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr.
+Kennedy. Latitude, 28° 27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33°; at noon,
+83°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, 53°; with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>5TH APRIL.&mdash;The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of
+the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an
+angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after
+passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded
+by a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and
+partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I found
+this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous course,
+impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got through it,
+only after contending with these impediments for three miles. The
+country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river, and I
+turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward two
+miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any river; but,
+on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was declining, and I
+turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction reached an extensive open
+forest, beyond which I saw at length the river line of trees. I continued to
+ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw our cattle grazing, and the
+tents, without having regained first, as I wished, my outward track. On
+the bank of the Balonne we found an apparently new species of
+ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish flowers, and in the scrub
+I passed through, in my ride, I found a CASUARINA, indeterminable in the
+absence of flowers or fruit. It produces a gall as large as a hazel nut.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 37°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 57°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>6TH APRIL.&mdash;Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not
+proceed, as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep
+our account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much
+galled, and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not
+without some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching
+a point whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave
+the cattle to refresh in a depôt on this fine river, which afforded an
+excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown
+regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously
+wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or
+Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part
+of the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the
+eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the
+Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of
+reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to
+the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I
+therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add
+in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,
+whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of
+encampment described.
+
+<p>In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a broadleaved,
+white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,
+which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted
+species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New
+World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on
+EXOCARPUS APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and
+Frazer on Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 44°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 63°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+57°. Height above the sea, 497 feet.
+
+<p>[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,
+fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos
+superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-09"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-09.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The River Balonne, 7th April</b></p>
+</center>
+
+
+<p>7TH APRIL.&mdash;When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I
+was informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud
+on the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was
+impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from
+having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our
+journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.
+Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest
+land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,
+even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got
+involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of
+E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees
+of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at
+an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the
+slopes, we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent,
+presenting a body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one
+other river of Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.
+
+<p>This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor
+Balonne, came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe
+were heard in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly,
+having left us suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily
+ordered him away. I had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at
+night on the former occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of
+mischief, and could not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We
+desired no further intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with
+us did not understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose
+through that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my
+journey fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of
+this camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even
+now. I had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here,
+at a time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still
+uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled
+globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m. 97°; at 9, 69°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb 57°. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28° 23' 59"
+S. (Camp III.)
+
+<p>8TH APRIL.&mdash;We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the
+river woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch,
+at first containing much water, and coming from the north, was
+on our right for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks
+of three horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if
+proceeding first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the
+river became dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw
+about a mile to the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of
+water on a level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of
+emerald green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a
+longer journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite
+water in its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy
+margin we saw still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to
+drink. The scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain.
+The ACACIA PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM
+OBLONGATUM, and others, gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance
+of water about, all hands considered this a very fine country. At sunset,
+thunder-clouds gathered in the S. W., and at about 7 p.m. the storm
+reached our camp, accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the
+S. E. The lightning was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily.
+By 8 p.m. it was over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of
+Regulus, by which the latitude was found to be 28° 17' 8" S. (No. IV.)
+Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 91°; at 4 p.m. 94°; at 9, 66°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb 63°.
+
+<p>9TH APRIL.&mdash;The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum,
+obliged me to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had
+already got further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river
+spread into a broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers
+having taken no notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where
+the carts had been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry
+the loads to firm ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this
+swamp for many miles, I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed
+the burning fires of natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on
+trees about. At length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the
+main river, where it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and
+sweeping round majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after
+a long journey. The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large
+fishes in it; ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black
+swans. This surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that
+such an enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else
+in New South Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The
+Anthistiria grew abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude,
+28° 13' 34" S. and marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 94°;
+at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, 63°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>10TH APRIL.&mdash;Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,
+fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the
+river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris scrubs
+were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open and
+firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of large
+Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and
+gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a soft
+red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by far the
+best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft red sand
+being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as mud. At
+length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious lagoon,
+extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift marks,
+that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it as it
+trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about that
+part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods. That
+lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water could
+never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon dried up,
+which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant in the
+bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA
+MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 99°; at 4 p.m., 97° at
+9, 66°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+<p>[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,
+stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi
+angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-pubescentitomentosis,
+bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis setaceis, legumine
+sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but flowers much smaller,
+in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects with the short character
+of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is not articulated on the footstalk,
+and the stipules exist.]
+
+<p>11TH APRIL.&mdash;Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right
+hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully
+falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,
+at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.
+This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered
+with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being
+near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true aboriginal
+name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more readily
+adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate amongst
+rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way about to
+my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay across my
+intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon the
+banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,
+having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very
+uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had once
+been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the swamp,
+the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the opposite
+direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently dry. On
+crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware that it is
+usually at acute angles in a river's course that such overflowings break
+out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn eastward, and even to
+the southward of east before I could find the river again. At length we
+came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand, where the waters
+took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents. I was now very
+desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to rest and
+refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This place did
+not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well tasted, and
+the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the natives, or by
+accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of the Balonne,
+and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO
+PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader
+leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of
+ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.
+M., 104°; at 9, 69°; with wet bulb, 62°. Average height above the sea, of
+camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.
+
+<p>[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse sinuatoserratis
+integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque glaberrimis.]
+
+<p>12TH APRIL.&mdash;I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour,
+and soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water
+and came from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that
+had for some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes
+that this river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it
+maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of
+water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the
+course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of
+the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,
+consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have
+been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the
+same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite
+bank, and at once selected the spot for a dépôt camp, which we
+established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down
+the river. It was, in fact, a tête-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage
+which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in
+latitude 28° 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P.
+M., 101°; at 9, 74°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>13TH APRIL.&mdash;Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with
+a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the
+river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my
+hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the
+stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of all
+in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a pair
+of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 67°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>15TH APRIL.&mdash;This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in
+the direction of 331½°, my intended route, and he returned about 10 P.
+M., having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right
+when about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the
+whole, I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to
+travel north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course
+of this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher
+ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at
+9, 72°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+<p>16TH APRIL.&mdash;In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting
+water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of infantry
+than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded chiefly with
+water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were thus prepared
+to pass several nights without requiring other water than that we carried
+with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the scrubs, and reach,
+and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great basin. Our first
+day's progress, being rather experimental, did not extend above ten miles.
+I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse, and exchange him for a
+better, as our load of water was heavy. The day was very sultry.
+Thermometer 105° Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed over ground
+more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 64°; at 4 p.m., 105°; at 9, 71°;&mdash;with wet
+bulb, 67°.
+
+<p>17TH APRIL.&mdash;The messenger returned early with two horses, one being
+my own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got
+forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they
+could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none
+was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,
+and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;
+and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar indication
+of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the white-barked
+gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of river trees,
+we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After completing
+about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses, where there was
+a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from our stock. The
+mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at all higher than
+our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore, not improbable
+that we might meet with some other channel or branch of that prolific
+river. After resting two hours we continued, passing through woods
+partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub. Towards the
+end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good grass, and
+having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of the character of
+the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very large
+kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks numerous.
+We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a grassy spot
+surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA of Banks,
+and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable whiteness
+appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which, on very
+close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On the plains
+the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose from its
+very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at sunrise,
+71°; at 9 P. M, 68°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to
+specimens of this brought to England:&mdash;
+
+<p>"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell
+(or rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does
+not allow me to say much about the insect by which they are formed.
+It is an extremely beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I
+have yet seen, and is, I have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It
+is of a very peculiar form, resembling a very delicate, broad, and
+flattened valve of a bi-valve shell, such as the genus Iridina, the
+part where the hinge is being a little produced and raised, and forming
+the cover of the coccus which secretes the beautiful material just
+in the same unexplained way as the scale insects form the slender
+attenuated scales beneath which they are born. I could not discover any
+insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas Mitchell's production in a
+state sufficient to determine what it really is, as I only found one or two
+exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up insects. It is extremely brittle,
+and looks more like dried, white, frothed sugar than any thing else."]
+
+<p>18TH APRIL.&mdash;A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N.
+N. E. direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed
+that water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the
+other horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I
+found some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and
+which evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were
+then dry. Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall
+of rain water would remain there some time. On riding two miles
+beyond, in the same direction, I found open forest land only. The country
+was well covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We
+again proceeded north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was,
+however, only soft red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses
+drawing the watercart.
+
+<p>On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different
+kind of country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or
+still more loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance,
+and the trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly.
+Instead of grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I
+afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRÀ), and one small, shrubby, brown
+bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike
+leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the firstmentioned
+plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in
+passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some
+birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They
+descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and
+seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp
+one fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my
+whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as
+those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and
+dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,
+especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the
+Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the
+DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the
+sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them elsewhere.
+The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much distressed. I
+continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a scrub in a clay
+hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country with more of the
+soft red sand. The people with the cart could not overtake me, and I
+returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I determined to encamp at
+some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our line, in latitude, 27°
+43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the barometer, we had not
+ascended higher than our depôt camp on the river, at a distance of nearly
+forty miles from it. I had just quitted my horse's back, and had resolved
+to return, when two horsemen were seen approaching along our track.
+They were two of our party come from the depôt to bring me a despatch,
+which had been forwarded by Commissioner Wright, communicating the
+news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port Essington, and enclosing the
+Gazette with his own account of his journey. Thus it became known to us
+that we could no longer hope to be the first to reach the shores of the
+Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise, 62°; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9,
+71°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>19TH APRIL,&mdash;I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode
+forward along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me,
+until the cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite
+exhausted by the heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°;
+at noon, 86°; at 9, 63°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>20TH APRIL.&mdash;The men who brought the despatches yesterday having
+been ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depôt, I sent our
+tired animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited
+quantity of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh
+horses about half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of
+another light cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage
+towards the head of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon,
+95; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, 63°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+<p>21ST APRIL.&mdash;The cart came in about 9 a.m. The morning was
+cloudy, for the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three
+or four days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have
+explored by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great
+river, the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I
+had just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended,
+had it been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground,
+whatever it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 65°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 60°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>22D APRIL.&mdash;The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the
+temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial
+column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated
+party engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of
+our late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the
+colony lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.
+direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as he
+went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,
+during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a
+new creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr.
+Bentham has named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41°; at noon,
+76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 61°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 56°. Mean elevation of
+this camp above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623
+feet.
+
+<p>[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis
+pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis
+elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus
+approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine
+molliter villoso.]
+
+<p>[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis subangulatis,
+phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late obovatis summisve
+linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis v. oblique
+mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis uninervibus
+tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris solitariis
+subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus truncatis,
+legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and possibly a
+mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably broader, and
+the inflorescence different.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-10"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-10.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map IV. Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter04"></a>
+<h4>Chapter IV.</h4>
+
+
+<blockquote>ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY&mdash;LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS
+AND DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.&mdash;DISCOVER A RIVER
+JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.&mdash;CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE
+THE BALONNE UPWARDS.&mdash;FINE RIVER SCENERY.&mdash;VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO
+THE EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.&mdash;TRIBUTARY FROM THE
+NORTH-WEST&mdash;AND RICH PLAINS.&mdash;TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.&mdash;EXCELLENT
+COUNTRY FOR GRAZING PURPOSES.&mdash;MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE
+NORTHWARD.&mdash;NATIVES AT OUR CAMP.&mdash;ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.&mdash;MOUNT
+INVITING.&mdash;ASCEND MOUNT RED CAP.&mdash;RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY
+DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.&mdash;THE BOTTLE TREE.&mdash;ASCEND MOUNT
+BINDÀNGO.&mdash;DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER "AMBY."&mdash;DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF
+A CAMP.&mdash;RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-WEST.&mdash;ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.&mdash;A
+GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND FOR THE CARTS.&mdash;SMALL RIVER
+DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF WATER.&mdash;THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS
+ON OPEN FLATS.&mdash;DISCOVER THE RIVER MARAN.&mdash;SELECT A POSITION FOR A
+DEPÔT.&mdash;RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTHWARD.&mdash;RIDE INTO THE WESTERN
+INTERIOR.&mdash;ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.&mdash;EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.&mdash;WATER
+NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.&mdash;RETURN TO THE CAMP.&mdash;ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE
+EASTWARD.&mdash;VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.&mdash;CAMP
+VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY ABSENCE.&mdash;ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY
+WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.&mdash;HIS ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE
+CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."&mdash;VARIOUS PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN
+ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.&mdash;DEPÔT CAMP ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.</blockquote>
+
+<p>23RD APRIL.&mdash;Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight
+men, two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three
+light carts with provisions for ten weeks&mdash;determined, if possible, to
+penetrate northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the
+division of the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view,
+to trace upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to
+the north-westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west,
+and thus acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the
+watershed towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to
+follow my track with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out
+on Monday, the 4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks'
+rest.
+
+<p>The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or
+hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each
+side. I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river.
+Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub; but
+came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque.
+Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm
+clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the
+river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27° 56' 12" S.
+There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long islands of
+sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The bed, in
+most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous conglomerate, or
+clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass was excellent
+and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick scrub crowned
+these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my examining the
+other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the ENOCARPUS
+SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the beautiful
+parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of Eucalyptus.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at 9 p.m., 47°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 41°.
+[* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman numerals those
+afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track with the
+main body.]
+
+<p>24TH APRIL.&mdash;Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction
+was N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild
+and very fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of
+water, in wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that
+sometimes moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines
+were wild, the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still
+inclined as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted
+finely with erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with
+perpendicular rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown,
+contrasted most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey
+driftwood, blue water, and verdure by its margin; all these again
+&mdash;grass, verdure, driftwood, and water&mdash;were so opposed to the dark
+hues of the Casuarinae, Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a
+Gains-borough, might there have found an inexhaustible stock of
+subjects for their pencil. It was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.</p>
+
+<blockquote>"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air,<br>
+And scarce a human image plac'd he there."</blockquote>
+
+<p>May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we
+may also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their
+sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be
+brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine
+perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy
+margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by
+scrub. At length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see
+along each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up
+that nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of
+natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was
+grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain."
+This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but
+finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at
+length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I
+could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river; marks of
+high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other. It might,
+and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but this seemed
+too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed it, to look for
+the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain bounded by trees that
+looked like those along the river. No time could be spared for further
+reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for the nearest part.
+My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in following the
+various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen miles beyond the
+point where I met with this river, that I reached the bank of the other, at a
+spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had quitted it. This was only
+accomplished at forty minutes after 4 p.m., when we had travelled
+twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was likely, if followed by Mr.
+Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay and inconvenience, I
+resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the subject, explaining how
+he could most readily fall into my track by crossing the other channel,
+quitting first the other track, at a spot to be marked by Graham, who took
+the letter. Nevertheless, it had been imperative on me to follow it up as I
+had done; because, whether as a separate tributary or an ana-branch only,
+the right bank was likely to suit us best, provided only that water could
+have been found in its bed. Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of
+Linnaeus, with its spikes of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also
+the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM. Lat. 27° 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 38°; at 9 p.m., 59°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+<p>25TH APRIL.&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers,<br>
+And heavily in clouds brings on the day."</blockquote>
+
+<p>A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a
+contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy,
+and Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of
+the other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my
+track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in
+an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and
+buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks
+on trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to
+examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the
+day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and,
+in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible
+difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+65°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 64°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 63°. Mean
+height above the sea, 586 feet.
+
+<p>26TH APRIL.&mdash;Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depôt camp
+at 1 p.m. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind
+from the west arose about 3 p.m. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon,
+78°; at 4 p.m., 78°; at 9, 56°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>27TH APRIL.&mdash;The party set off early. We found that a river from the
+north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from
+the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I
+determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and
+water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of
+the first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after
+following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode
+northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten
+minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I
+could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27° 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+37°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 72°; at 9, 57°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+<p>28TH APRIL.&mdash;Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river
+bed like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here
+broke through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S.
+W., it seemed probable that the general course from above might be
+parallel to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches
+large, full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant
+grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered
+with the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a
+delicate grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also
+here observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W.,
+and whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel
+northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again,
+cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its
+course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have
+rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during
+the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had
+been in England during the same month. Latitude 27° 32' 37" S. The
+direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long
+sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered
+available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface
+of the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river,
+attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor
+features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they
+had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at
+4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 48°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>29TH APRIL.&mdash;The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into
+gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent
+me from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or
+pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy
+margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all
+seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I
+was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress
+along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I
+could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in a
+gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge like
+that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday, doubtless the
+product of the late rain, and probably from these clay gullies. After a
+circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow over-looking
+much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies, but could
+easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we encamped
+as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27° 28' 27". One
+of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree, discovered vast plains
+in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river line pursuing a northerly
+course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung over what he supposed to
+be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 47°;
+with wet bulb, 44°.
+
+<p>30TH APRIL.&mdash;Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came
+upon open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the
+rugged gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north,
+with sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all
+fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the
+river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a high
+scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large
+lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see.
+It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native
+huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27°
+20' S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our
+youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 p.m.,
+65°; at 9, 43°.
+
+<p>1ST MAY.&mdash;On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the
+river, we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground
+broken into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin
+of this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage
+elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it,
+we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and
+could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards
+northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains,
+bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw still
+the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the
+cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us
+improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward,
+with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W.
+From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains extending
+before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low rise to the
+N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each containing
+deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the river;
+we encamped near it, in latitude 27° 15' 4" S. As we approached this
+spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then running off
+&mdash;Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of his own.
+I endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they made
+off, setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of these parts
+might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they would at length
+come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, p.m.,
+48°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>2D MAY.&mdash;There was a decided difference between the river we were
+now upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by
+which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small
+tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the westward,
+while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst plains,
+reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was the
+principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather
+difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses
+lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the
+water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable
+breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the
+woods back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's
+bed, but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we
+could have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river,
+passing close to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next
+change of the river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the
+receding bergs guided me, even when only seen at a considerable
+distance, in shaping my course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I
+travelled far along a grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing
+water like chrystal, and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western
+shore consisted of shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated
+on its eastern extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N.
+W., we at length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous
+channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more
+like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus
+waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of
+the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just
+beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were
+erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open
+iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather
+peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also
+undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we
+were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77°, also a hill to
+the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333°), he saw
+also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at 4 p.m., 62°; at 9
+P. M 57°; mean height above the sea, 694 feet.
+
+<p>3RD MAY.&mdash;Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and
+we perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the
+morning. Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party
+bearing a green branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to
+our tents. One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite
+absorbed in observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently
+overcome all their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and
+without any kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With
+steady fixed looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances,
+what passed in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages.
+On the contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look
+of good sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence,
+could we but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor
+did they show any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the
+smallest of which might have been of use to them. There must be an
+original vein of mind in these aboriginal men of the land. O that
+philosophy or philanthropy could but find it out and work it! Yuranigh
+plied them with all my questions, but to little purpose; for although he
+could understand their language, he complained that they did not answer
+him in it, but repeated, like parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same
+manner, they followed me with a very exact repetition of English words.
+He, however, gathered from them that the lake was called "Turànimga,"
+this river "Cogoon," a hill to the eastward "Toolumbà," etc. They had
+never before seen white men, and behaved as properly as it was possible
+for men in their situation to do. At length we set out on our journey, and
+in mounting my horse, which seemed very much to astonish them, I
+made signs that we were going to the mountains.
+
+<p>Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The
+deep ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was
+small, in comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed
+to say we had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers."
+Malga scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of
+these forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that
+impervious sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making
+straighter cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was,
+however, now rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a
+tributary to the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us,
+pursued a tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29° and
+27°, coming round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last
+three days we had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of
+north-west; in which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect
+that we should soon find mountains.
+
+<p>As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded,
+with Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw
+through the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I
+perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the
+south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the northeast,
+like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight to me
+then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west, the object
+of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had before seen
+these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still
+undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this hill
+Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from
+its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was
+felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat.
+27° 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9 p.m.,
+45°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 43°.
+
+<p>4TH MAY.&mdash;An Australian morning is always charming,&mdash;amid these
+scenes of primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or
+GYMNORHINA, the organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller
+bird, whose notes, resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the
+only sounds that met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such
+sounds in other climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning
+in this. "The rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the
+perfume of the shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and
+the tints and tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The
+light red tints of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the
+white stems of the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early
+morning, still slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in
+the most pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally
+fine, from the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate
+willow-like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees,
+the mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there
+is a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most
+brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter
+morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are
+equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the
+savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from
+thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence.
+
+<p>Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had
+seen whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found
+myself on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest,
+so that I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges
+clothed with dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and
+descended towards a fine open country, on which pigeons were
+numerous, and traces of natives. It was also sloping to the northward, and
+I had no doubt that we had passed into a valley which I had observed
+yesterday from Mount First View, and had supposed it contained a larger
+river. In the open ground, I found a small rocky knoll which I named
+Mount Minute. From its summit, I recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing
+128° 30'. We next passed through some scrub, and came to a hollow full
+of Acacia pendula. Following this down we arrived at a chain of ponds,
+and these led to an open grassy valley, in which we found our old friend,
+the river, still pursuing, steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along
+the bank, for a mile or two, we found that these now consisted of fine
+open forest flats; and at length encamped on the margin, after a journey
+of about twelve miles. Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite
+bank, first standing in mute astonishment, then running away. I held up a
+green bough, but they seemed very wild; and, although occasionally seen
+during the afternoon, none of them would approach us. We found on the
+banks of this river, a purple-flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*]
+Lat. 26° 57' 39" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9,
+37°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 34°.
+
+<p>[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis alternis
+oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo longioribus,
+floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.]
+
+<p>5TH MAY.&mdash;The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession,
+colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19° E.,
+yet the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open air,
+seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere, extreme
+cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So, also, in the
+opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so accustomed to a
+higher temperature than 100° F., that any degree under that felt
+refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the little river was still
+very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks at the westerly bends;
+from which side it was also joined by a small tributary, with ponds and
+hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of the POLYGONUM ACRE.
+Still, however, the main channel could be distinguished from these, and
+the open forest flats along its banks became more and more extensive
+and open as we ascended this channel,&mdash;leading so directly where we
+wished to go.
+
+<p>Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub,
+but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with
+callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through. I
+rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from
+Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be
+removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond,
+there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of
+felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular
+polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and
+W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26° 54' 16" S. It was only
+during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any
+indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than that
+of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the difference
+was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or seven
+millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the sea
+being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 p.m., 67°.
+
+<p>6TH MAY.&mdash;The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the
+slopes less abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a
+mixture of sand, at a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it
+occupied a section of considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards
+between bank and bank. On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest
+land, Youranigh drew my attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of
+trees, which he showed me had been deposited there by floods. As they
+were of a growth and size quite disproportioned to other trees there, I
+was convinced that they were the debris of floods; and, consequently,
+that a vast body of water sometimes came down this channel. This native
+was taciturn and observant of such natural circumstances, to a degree that
+made his opinion of value in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which
+of two channels, that might come both in our way, might be the main
+one; thus my last resource, when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el
+parecer," as they say in Spain, of this aboriginal, and he was seldom
+wrong. At length, the cheering expanse of an open country appeared
+before us, and a finely shaped hill, half-covered only, with bushes. On
+reaching an elevated clear part, I saw extensive downs before me. The
+river turned amongst woods to the eastward, and I continued on our route
+to the north, sure of meeting with it again, as some fine forest ridges
+hemmed in the valley to the eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned
+(which I named Mount Inviting), there was a curious red cone some
+miles to the westward, crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to
+plant my theodolite. After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of
+Acacia pendula which gradually changed to an open forest, within which
+I met with a chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26° 46' S. I
+immediately set out, with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red
+Cap, distant from our camp about six miles. This little red cone had a
+very singular appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark
+tinted scrub of flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of
+which the light and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy
+plain. I found the red rock to be the common one of the country, in a
+state of decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal,
+whose tracks had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling
+us to lead our horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an
+extensive view of the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood
+to the verge of the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of
+picturesque form, and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the
+direction whence we had come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more
+continuous ridges; and, towards the extremity of them, I could just
+recognise Mount First View, this being one of the distant cones I had
+seen from it. I took as many angles as the descending sun permitted, and
+then retraced our horses' tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+20°; at 9 p.m., 47°. Height above the sea, 747 feet.
+
+<p>7TH MAY.&mdash;Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open
+forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula,
+in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward,
+now anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we
+found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds
+skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my
+ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge.
+From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little
+wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the
+centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good
+pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to
+follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from
+the west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open
+downs, and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in
+neither of which could we find any water, and had consequently to return
+to the last of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country
+towards the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26° 42' 27" S.,
+thankful that we had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and
+to discover so fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>8TH MAY.&mdash;This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21° in my
+tent, a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen indicated
+from my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which was not
+frozen, neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in splendour;
+pigeons cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods. The
+business of the day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine open
+country to the westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for a
+higher branch of the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region could
+not be deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen of the
+range to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E. in
+about two hours we came upon the identical river we had so long
+followed up. It was accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had
+its rounded bergs; reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left
+bank. Crossing it I rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs,
+in hopes to obtain a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found
+that to be impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an
+elevated north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it
+beheld the finest country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A
+champaign region, spotted with wood, stretching as far as human vision,
+or even the telescope, could reach. It was intersected by river lines from
+the north, distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass
+arose in the midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W.
+and N. E. direction, as to deserve the name of a range.
+
+<p>A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S.
+E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that
+variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks of
+a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole
+country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton
+Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an
+elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend
+the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to
+near the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by
+rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear
+leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I
+was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater,
+although the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes
+there were different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me,
+seemed chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by
+no means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in
+Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around them.
+Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The trunk
+bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the diameter at the
+ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches above. These were
+small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole tree looked very
+odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that I was convinced
+this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A still more remarkable
+specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in the apex of a basaltic
+peak, in the kind of gap of the range through which we passed on the
+15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying drawing.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-11"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-11.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The Bottle tree, DELABECHEA</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like
+hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*]
+Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the
+rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly
+covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even
+after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau, so
+thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward
+towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down
+than that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the
+Cogoon, I passed between the two summits, and found a good open
+passage to the westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+20°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 30°. Height above the sea 1043
+feet.
+
+<p>[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of
+Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with
+respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it
+more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These
+are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate, mucronate,
+smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and lined with a
+thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also closely covered
+with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold the seeds together
+firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the upper half of the seed,
+whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining, smooth, and marked with a
+brown nipple, the remains of the foramen. Within the primine lies the
+bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite loose, and seems as if it were
+independent of the primine. Eventually the end of the thin brittle primine
+breaks like an eggshell and the secundine falls out. The seeds
+themselves, remaining attached to each other and to the follicle, resemble
+six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half a dozen brown
+eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young have escaped
+through the point.
+
+<p>Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir
+Henry T. De la Beche, as president of a Society which has greatly
+encouraged him in his Australian researches; and in honour of a science
+which has occasionally thrown some light on his dark and difficult path.
+It may be scientifically described as follows:&mdash;
+
+<p>DELABECHEA.</p>
+
+<p>CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ...
+STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longè stipitati, intus
+stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili
+cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita, inter
+se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINÂ laxâ, tenui, fragili, apice
+foramine incrassato notatâ, SECUNDINÂ crustaceâ, demum liberâ chalazâ
+magnâ circulari notatâ. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria.
+
+<p>DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS.
+
+<p>ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM
+album, laxum, mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate)
+maximis faciem internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis
+medullaribus tenuibus equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata,
+integerrima, in petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia,
+subtus pallida et quasi vernice quâdam cinereâ obducta. INFLORESCENTIA
+axillaris, trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque
+tomentosus.
+
+<p>The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is
+soft, and brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very
+large tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half
+across; they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When
+boiling water is poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly,
+resembling tragacanth, is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass;
+iodine stains it brown, but not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No
+doubt the nutritious quality of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is
+apparently of the same nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree
+of Sierra Leone (STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA).
+
+<p>It is not a little remarkable that
+the barrel-like form of the trunk should be almost exactly paralleled by
+another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the
+Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It seems, however, that a tendency
+to a short lumpish mode of growth is common among the order, as is
+indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which is almost as broad as it is
+long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-Cottons of tropical America.
+&mdash;J. L.]
+
+<p>9TH MAY.&mdash;The thermometer stood at 19° in my tent this morning, yet
+no ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that
+branch of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track for
+Mr. Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about two
+miles to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a trench
+cut across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a letter
+for Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour which
+might have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our track
+from the south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the
+direction of the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a
+due north line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for
+our river, as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and
+the woods quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The
+watercourse, soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and
+these at last were found to contain no water, when we had completed our
+day's journey. Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still
+distinguish my rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the
+general direction of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W.
+We were still much to the southward of the line so observed,
+apprehending, as I did think then, that some tempting plains might take
+us too far along some western tributary. Riding in search of water, I
+perceived a column of smoke to the northward; and, taking the party in
+that direction, we found, in the first valley we fell in with, a chain of
+ponds, and in one of these water enough for our use, whereupon I gladly
+encamped. This day we discovered a new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark
+in small angular pieces.[*] Latitude, 26° 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4 P.
+M., 74°; at sunset, 63°. Height above the sea, 1299 feet.
+
+<p>[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis
+breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis reticulatovenosis,
+nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris
+axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.]
+
+<p>10TH MAY.&mdash;Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land.
+The sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the
+open country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the
+scenery, and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a
+level woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country
+from any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is
+every thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water,
+when in the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went
+forward this morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of
+our friendly river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some
+of its highest sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain
+before us, over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a
+dry bushy hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have
+encamped, I perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of
+it, which was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more
+readily I got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down.
+This, opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The
+welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the
+water-course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains,
+gracefully fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I
+crossed a bare grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw
+luxuriant white trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same
+colour (PSITTACUS GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water,
+beside which we encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a
+beautiful Loranthus, which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly
+discovered by the indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now
+described by Sir William Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28°; at 4 P.
+M., 76°; at 9, 38°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 34°.
+
+<p>[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis
+oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis
+tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis
+axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis
+nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis
+linearibus.&mdash;Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were
+subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.]
+
+<p>11TH MAY.&mdash;I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with
+axes, and one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with
+thick scrub interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way
+almost any where. I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on
+throwing down a few of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view
+over the country to the northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain.
+Beyond these, valleys, also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one
+side to the S. E., on another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a
+rather elevated tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain
+with a range just dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley
+descending towards the N. W., seemed to me to be the head of a river
+likely to pass through a remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the
+view did not extend. To the westward a woody, and rather level country
+appeared, from which I thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs
+between them, descending towards the N. W. river.
+
+<p>Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my
+theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise, that
+the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I stood, and
+that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still, the only
+greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due north.
+Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass through?
+Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern and
+southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident from
+columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral
+ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward.
+That was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found
+an interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I
+resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the
+remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them
+much resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and
+returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found
+eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my
+absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a
+tomahawk to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little
+could be understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his.
+We did, however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned
+from, was "Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyègo;
+and the ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped,
+"Tagàndo;" all very good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at
+once in my notes and map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre,
+and had a few feathers of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their
+foreheads and beards. These simple decorations gave them a splendid
+holiday appearance, as savages. The trio who had visited us some days
+before, were all thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and
+their white teeth, constantly visible, shone whiter than even the
+cockatoo's feathers on their brows and chins. Contrasted with our
+woollen-jacketted, straw-hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care,
+it seemed as if nature was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of
+the sons of art. Sun never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than
+these children of nature appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine
+powerful fellow, whose voice sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if
+his very whisper might be heard half a mile off. The old man remained
+by our fire all night; the others who, as I understood, were all his sons,
+had departed about 11 p.m., having left their gins in the vicinity.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 59°; at 9, 35°.
+
+<p>12TH MAY.&mdash;I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river
+flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount
+Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found
+the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a river,
+with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short
+way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from
+one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from
+which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This
+water was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to
+which I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to
+expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°;
+at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 59°; at 9, 52°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 51°. Height
+above the sea, 1168 feet.
+
+<p>13TH MAY.&mdash;I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party
+crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet
+above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy
+downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two
+knolls projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode
+to one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was
+the first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from
+their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyègo, which I had not leisure to examine then, also
+consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one hundred
+yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with trees
+wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely, CALLITRIS
+PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next descended to a
+separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the north-west. Instead
+of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been doing, and finding
+them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main channel, we were now to
+follow one downwards, with the prospect of finding it to increase as we
+proceeded. The relief from the constant apprehension of not falling in
+with water was great, as each day's journey was likely to show additional
+tributaries to our new found river, and, of course, to augment the supply.
+The old native at Tagàndo, had pointed much to the north-west,
+frequently repeating the word "MARAN;" whether that was, or what was,
+the name of this river, remained to be ascertained. A sweet breeze from
+the N. W. met us as we descended the slopes, and thus it was that white
+men first passed in that direction, "AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA."
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 43°.
+Height of camp above the sea, 1226 feet.
+
+<p>14TH MAY.&mdash;The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I
+crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the
+country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the time
+I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap. We
+passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we
+had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before
+me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in
+that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass, and
+wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me,
+however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had
+thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been
+called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in
+advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went
+forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We
+found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which
+was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all
+to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to my
+native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the
+tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He
+handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to
+examine my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that
+convinced him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the
+river was called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then,
+for the first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that
+this might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu
+as civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I
+perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing
+more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild
+tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the
+tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a
+thought which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart
+upon our goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to
+desist from his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way,
+contrive to cheek the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a
+loud whisper of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was
+no music in this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous
+sandstone, whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the
+eastward. A gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which
+was steep towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone)
+afforded me a view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about
+it. I perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the
+country was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed
+marked out by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and
+watercourses fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still
+the country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills,
+clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and dells
+between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot of the
+finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of route, to
+the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we wanted water,
+but on following a little channel about a mile downwards, we found in it
+a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further down this
+channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of my newly
+discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I was almost
+convinced that it would have brought me into this very country, had I
+come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26° 17' 8" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 35°; at 4 p.m., 80°; at 7 p.m., 71°; at 9, 48°. Height above the
+sea, 1150 feet.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-12"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-12.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The black awaiting the white</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>15TH MAY.&mdash;My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning,
+to natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp.
+Some time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped,
+with head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside
+my after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big
+savage of yesterday.
+
+<p>Hamlet might here have exclaimed&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>"What a piece of work is man!<br>
+... ..... how infinite in faculties!<br>
+In form and action how like a <i>quadruped</i>!<br>
+In apprehension, how like a <i>devil</i>!"</blockquote>
+
+<p>There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be
+the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This
+savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were
+concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had
+been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably,
+drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in
+the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet
+whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted,
+expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud
+JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp. My
+horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different
+direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know
+either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity of
+frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other
+way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree,
+with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and
+Yuranigh, both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill,
+whence I found that a great number had just retired, leaving even their
+opossums still roasting on the fire;&mdash;they having, in a very brief
+interval, by rapid strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard
+their shouts in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate
+retreat&mdash;aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing
+behind some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with
+the business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a
+low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of
+black ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so
+that it might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it
+on the south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to
+give birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we
+were encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the
+Bottle tree, represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this
+range, and in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the
+country westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a
+watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and
+dry ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the
+commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this
+downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew
+our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a
+pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and the
+ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently in the
+same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to bring
+forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the country
+beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and the
+country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+38°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 43°.
+
+<p>[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature
+behind a tree.]
+
+<p>16TH MAY.&mdash;We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the
+carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively on
+the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque,
+while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more
+importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along
+the creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find
+water at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26°
+15' 24" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 49°. Height
+above the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;&mdash;of this camp, 1256 feet.
+
+<p>17TH MAY.&mdash;Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I
+could move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone
+ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it would),
+to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping
+valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were
+clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and
+found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height
+afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to
+be chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon,
+and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the
+course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat. I
+descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could find
+no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine grassy
+flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising ground, on
+the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the inhabitants of
+the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek turning
+towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious open
+flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our further
+progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I
+perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards it,
+observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching a
+large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below
+these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the
+blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond
+that could not have lasted long,&mdash;here I saw at once secure, a firm
+footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it
+went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully
+as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N.
+to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far on
+our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with other
+streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course
+downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just
+deserted, the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left
+suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp
+under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its
+final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research.
+I returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a
+permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 78°;
+at 4 p.m. 75°; at 9, 49°.
+
+<p>18TH MAY.&mdash;Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to
+trace, with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays
+coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the
+country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well
+covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to
+the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap
+behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we
+had descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we
+had just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I
+sought a good position for a depôt camp on the newly-discovered river,
+and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W.,
+overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and
+having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and
+firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke
+and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as
+much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being
+removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the
+kangaroos come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this
+camp, 26° 12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at 4 p.m., 78°; at 9,
+57°.
+
+<p>19TH MAY.&mdash;I could now venture to halt a day without any
+apprehensions about leaving sufficient water for the party who were
+following us; and I had recently obtained many angles I wished to put
+together, in order to learn the character of the country, which required
+much study. That I should have overlooked an extensive country, without
+perceiving any indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at
+my feet, seemed a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of
+its ultimate course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the
+chief elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount
+Red Cap, Bindango, and Bindyègo, to the high ranges nearer the coast.
+That the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby),
+and flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of
+basaltic rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango
+and the northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side,
+and that the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered.
+Where was the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters
+were full of fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 65°.
+
+<p>20TH MAY.&mdash;The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded
+us some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration
+during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a
+sudden change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during
+the journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48°. F. Yuranigh
+contrived to catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of
+the rivers in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river could
+belong to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at
+noon, 48°; at 4 p.m., 45°; at 9, 45°.
+
+<p>21ST MAY.&mdash;The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me
+to ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west,
+in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the
+river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests,
+and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too
+loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three
+channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in
+ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass
+(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees
+being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind,
+but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly
+on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as
+they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally
+strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions,
+such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this
+summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the
+highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80
+miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line of
+smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and
+others to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon
+presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded
+from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level
+horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap
+was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye
+ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending
+eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote
+distance; in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives.
+I returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had
+observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore, still
+look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that, for the
+heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the river,
+resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west of it.
+They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an
+extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken
+into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at
+noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>22D MAY.&mdash;This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20°;
+and in the open air, at 12°. The river was frozen, and the grass was white
+with hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before us, I
+resolved to form a depôt with our drays and heavy equipment here, and
+to await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The spot
+was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr. Kennedy
+with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively the
+character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather apprehensive
+that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this point; and I
+was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for continuing
+the journey, without dragging them any further through the heavy sand.
+It was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be obliged to
+remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a journey, when
+horses and light carts might have enabled me to have pursued it to a
+conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54°; at 4 p.m.,
+55°; at 9, 27°.
+
+<p>23D MAY.&mdash;The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and
+to receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of
+ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great
+height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further
+course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp;
+and, in awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With
+this view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it
+from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I
+ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without difficulty,
+or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the western
+side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent gradual,
+through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the Yarra
+gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the ACACIA
+CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA
+MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark,
+and stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh;
+who remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney.
+But deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the
+direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length, we
+approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but
+quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I
+turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it
+pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going
+far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this
+interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the
+furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward,
+extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river
+would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance
+from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of
+their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I passed
+this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing our
+guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that they
+had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the river
+bank. These people had no clothing,&mdash;the mercury stood at 19° and 20°
+F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely enough to
+have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns. Yet, under
+such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to them, these
+human beings were so contented and happy, that the overflowings of
+their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human nature in a wild
+state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on the contrary, I
+was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that, much as I wished to
+learn the original name of this interior river, and something about its
+course, I forbade any of the party from taking any notice of these, its
+original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the natives, had also taught
+me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the camel. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 12°; at noon, 52°; at 4 p.m., 56°; at 9, 32°.
+
+<p>24TH MAY.&mdash;I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about
+two miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already
+mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great
+distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last
+evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly
+waving my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and
+several others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a
+similar manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man
+on horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the
+summit, grew the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood,
+that I was obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree
+on the summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of
+platform on the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there
+appeared some open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its
+apparent course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m.,
+67°; and at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>25TH MAY.&mdash;Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if
+possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some
+knowledge of the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my
+work was a conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the
+projecting extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range),
+and that its basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the
+sandstone cliffs on this side. But the course downwards still remained a
+question, which diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper
+course to come from where it was my wish to go. I resolved,
+nevertheless, while thus awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my
+ride of the 23RD MAY, and ascertain whether it could turn westward under
+the southern cliffs, the only direction in which it was likely to be
+available to us, downwards, at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17°; at
+noon, 70°; at 4 p.m. 68°; and at 9, 38°.
+
+<p>26TH MAY.&mdash;Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I
+retraced my former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the
+dry river bed, where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone
+gullies, where one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to
+pursue; and this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open
+forest of iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of
+the same felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan
+basin; the soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard
+leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and,
+further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue
+distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually
+accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search
+of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on
+a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA
+PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best kinds
+of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good
+pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile
+beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as
+we could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to
+find the river, and the rocky country over which we had come.
+Westward, the downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated
+conical hills,&mdash;the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing
+westward like a limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that
+barrier the river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the
+river, I found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five
+miles further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs,
+but I saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally
+amid the long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of
+native inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we
+hastened back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which
+happened to be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 72°; at
+4 p.m., 71°; at 9, 44°.
+
+<p>27TH MAY.&mdash;We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I
+had seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak
+appeared to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W.,
+and in that expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately
+recognised two of my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo
+miles respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous
+range on the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined
+to be only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only
+westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a
+long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as
+accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in
+sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and
+although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at the
+far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more probable,
+from the general slope of the country, that it was only another tributary
+coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who alone
+stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate of the
+rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not to be
+found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me
+know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it
+been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then
+that it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked
+much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the
+twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land
+around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of
+the hills&mdash;half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and
+vales&mdash;or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least
+there seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer
+of nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its
+sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from
+that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in that
+direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill overlooking
+that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable geological
+friend. We reached the dépot camp in the evening, and found all well,
+only that a very tall and powerful native had been reconnoitring our
+position during the day, from various trees commanding a view of it;
+probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always happened to
+be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party was absent,
+as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 79°; at 4
+p.m., 68°; at 9, 59°; with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+<p>[* Probably the Nive. See <i>infra</i>.]
+
+<p>
+28TH AND 29TH MAY.&mdash;My ride westward had enabled me to intersect
+more points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate
+country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying down
+points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I gain a
+satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however, I was
+convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depôt camp,
+was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey. The
+arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important
+desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and
+continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil
+beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy
+drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly
+time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and
+other obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my
+reconnoissance northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen
+miles, and bearing 27½° E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 47°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 79°: at 9, 65°.
+
+<p>30TH MAY.&mdash;I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of
+excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit
+consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was
+much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of
+those remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had
+since seen them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'-
+back crest of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other
+heights. The girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and
+only sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same
+kind, a very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality,
+seems to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the
+kangaroo is remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I
+am sure, remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood
+being so light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or
+tomahawk, might live by the side of one without other food or water; as
+if nature in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary
+places, had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must
+contain a great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to
+contain as much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great
+number of seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds;
+and, from the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a
+bird on a rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of
+this tree may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds
+being the favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed
+probably requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may
+grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and
+satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to
+the southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount
+Lonsdale): the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in
+the S. W.; and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward,
+beyond which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were
+just visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's
+course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing,
+and the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such
+occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from
+the N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or
+towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected
+various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus
+connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango,
+Mount Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some
+almost clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and
+seemed to be also connected with those stretching towards Bindango,
+and separating the basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country.
+A hill similar to that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the
+interior side of it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The
+valley at the base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA;
+and there was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped
+not long before, but in which no water then remained.
+
+<p>[* A new genus, since named <i>Delabechea</i>.]
+
+<p>On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left it
+in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing, each,
+several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by two
+females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under
+arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to
+the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures
+motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before
+the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal
+speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses.
+Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they
+advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at
+a distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned
+round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that
+vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old
+soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first
+sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon
+after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to
+approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest
+following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite
+with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he
+continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities,
+and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also,
+by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial
+description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the
+white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a
+spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the
+one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the
+other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed
+more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above,
+the other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more
+remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave strict
+orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be allowed
+to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the natives; that no
+ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there. Nothing could be
+more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor more courageous
+than his appearance before our more numerous party, with his spears and
+open defiance; and I was determined to take every precaution to avoid a
+collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during our probably long
+residence here, our people from doing them any harm. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 22°; at noon, 60°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 31°.
+
+<p>1ST JUNE.&mdash;The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded
+from the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach
+of the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line;
+and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health.
+The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again
+proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depôt here.
+Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him,
+for twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from
+the N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of
+Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their
+attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is
+from his own notes:&mdash;"At 1 p.m., an old native, accompanied by five
+younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and
+when within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably
+their chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest.
+Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received
+here, that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve
+that good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance,
+according to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green
+bough, and endeavoured by signs to make them leave:&mdash;finding that of
+no avail, I presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of
+bread. After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand,
+and taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence
+they had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid
+them farewell. As the others still remained in <i>statu quo</i>, I went through
+the same ceremony with them until they were all on their path
+homewards. Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I
+flattered myself that I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that
+we did not wish them beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at
+4 p.m. a large number of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and
+children, came boldly up and encamped within a few yards of the tents,
+and two hundred more were reported to me by Mortimer as being at a
+short distance in their rear. I gave strict orders that no man should go
+near them, and I mustered the party myself at 8 p.m. Shortly afterwards,
+three or four natives came down to our fires, and on the men saying that
+they would not be made to leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and
+shewed them their own camp. One tall young native in particular,
+wearing an opossum cloak, exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I
+continued to watch their movements until half-past eleven, p.m. up to
+which time they were talking very earnestly, continually repeating the
+words "white fellow." I had not retired to my tent five minutes when I
+heard Baldock (one of the two men on watch) several times desire the
+natives to go back, who, as it appeared, would insist on coming forward
+to our fires. Serjeant Niblet then called me, saying he thought "all was
+not right," that the natives refused to keep away, and that he had seen the
+fire sticks of others approaching from several directions. On turning out,
+I found them making a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of
+our tents, and the grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their
+mischievous work. I called to them in the language of some of the
+aborigines, to go away quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but
+seeing that they still drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger
+of the camp, I desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their
+arms, to charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received
+orders. We succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm,
+one or two shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I
+had given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind
+them, all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them
+that we had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the
+cattle brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning
+watch, and no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of
+the treacherous nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic
+of the aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct
+of our neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was
+likely to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit
+that position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could
+not keep pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so
+numbered, the others marked being those where his party had passed the
+night. This depôt camp was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such
+others of mine as have been marked between this and VIII., shall be
+added to this journal, and the whole marked on the map. A new species
+of CALLITRIS appeared among the trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the
+large leaved variety of ACACIA DECORA, further removed than usual from
+the common form, and approaching, in some respects, to A. RUBIDA.
+Among the bushes was the beautiful little A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its
+little heath-like leaves, and among the grasses was remarked an
+abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with extremely minute flowers.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligulâ nulla nisi squamulâ
+quâdam, paniculâ effusâ ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque
+scabriusculis, paleis truncatis alterâ 3-nervi alterâ binervi.]
+
+<p>2D JUNE.&mdash;Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over
+two of the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of
+the journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration
+of flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of
+mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I
+now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring
+carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd,
+formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to
+this point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner
+Mitchell, accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such
+passages as the following:&mdash;"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir
+Thomas Mitchell now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We
+understand the intrepid Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition
+to the Gulf, keeping to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not
+very encouraging to us, certainly; but we work for the future.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 67°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>3D JUNE.&mdash;This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river,
+which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus
+tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It is
+therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr. Wm.
+M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the Barwan.
+The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed to
+be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was
+thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily
+watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle
+at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate
+protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very
+particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be
+allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use
+them very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible,
+respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+16°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 34°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-13"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-13.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map V. The country and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the River Victoria</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter05"></a>
+<h4>Chapter V.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.&mdash;SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE
+FRESHEST TEAM.&mdash;JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.&mdash;FOLLOW UP THE MINOR
+BRANCH.&mdash;A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.&mdash;HOSTILE
+TRIBE.&mdash;HOW DISPERSED.&mdash;CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.&mdash;ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER
+FROM THE WEST.&mdash;CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.&mdash;AGAIN RIDE TO THE
+N.W.&mdash;DETERMINE TO FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.&mdash;AGAIN ARRIVE
+ON THE MARANOA.&mdash;CROSS THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.&mdash;ASCEND A SMALL
+ROCKY HILL.&mdash;MOUNT OWEN AGAIN RECOGNIZED.&mdash;TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.&mdash;THROUGH
+SCRUBS, AND OVER SANDY GROUND.&mdash;AGAIN WANT WATER.&mdash;TURN TO THE
+MARANOA.&mdash;FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.&mdash;ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.&mdash;RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.
+&mdash;DISTANT MOUNTAINS.&mdash;ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.&mdash;ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.&mdash;THE
+RIVER WARREGO DISCOVERED.&mdash;IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,&mdash;THE PARTY CROSSES IT.
+&mdash;MOUNT FARADAY.&mdash;THE PYRAMIDS.&mdash;RIVER SALVATOR.&mdash;THE SALVATOR JOINS THE
+NOGOA.&mdash;COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.&mdash;CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF
+SCRUB, IN A N.W. DIRECTION.&mdash;THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.&mdash;FINE OPEN
+DOWNS.&mdash;BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.&mdash;TOWER ALMOND.&mdash;MOUNT
+MUDGE.&mdash;LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.</blockquote>
+
+<p>
+4TH JUNE.&mdash;EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr.
+Kennedy adieu, for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my
+party and light carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left
+this zealous assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in
+departing on a hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the
+population might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left,
+predominated with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and
+repassing through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a
+length of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to
+be assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning
+and treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we
+parted in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return&mdash;a
+hope, I must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of
+pleasure, looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to
+encounter, and considering the state of my own health.
+
+<p>The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and
+delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;
+therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day, and
+go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter journey.
+This was only of six miles from the depôt camp. Amongst the waterworn
+pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of coal and the
+rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its concomitant strata.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at 9 p.m., 40°.
+
+<p>5TH JUNE.&mdash;The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to
+the river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and
+convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I
+accordingly sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr.
+Kennedy, and with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring
+forward one of the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry
+channels of tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight,
+like the main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable
+point to encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there
+gullies rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the
+intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to
+contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to
+the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was
+very open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of
+water, forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from
+north to south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked
+XXXI., last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24°; at 4 p.m.,
+70°; at 9, 43°.
+
+<p>6TH JUNE.&mdash;Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,
+confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of
+course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the
+time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had
+now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical
+work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have
+had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men
+were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of
+Miquel was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26° 6' 25" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 50°.
+
+<p>7TH JUNE.&mdash;We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as
+we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with
+water-courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious
+impediment. At length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range,
+and a long ridge appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely,
+following up the smooth clay floor of a water-course, I found myself
+gradually entangled in a bad scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After
+cutting our way through it, for a mile and a half, I sought on the other
+side for any hollow leading off water, and found one which brought us
+into an open forest flat with a fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula
+appeared on its skirts; and, at length, abundance of water, also, in the
+ponds. The grass was so luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped
+beside it, without seeking the river, to which these ponds seemed
+adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 70°
+(XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet.
+
+<p>8TH JUNE.&mdash;The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was
+very fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating
+country intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics.
+At length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the
+west. Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main
+channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I
+was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although
+its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round
+even from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it,
+obliged me to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid
+them. We thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably
+level, and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed
+a water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,
+where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole
+nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I
+approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle
+from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on
+this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 70°. (XXXIII.)
+
+<p>9TH JUNE.&mdash;The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I
+considered that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet
+weather; and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in
+which I wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to
+explore the country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest.
+Little rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of
+hay, but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I
+found a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful
+clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few
+bushes, by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and
+endeavoured to talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh,
+who was with me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his
+language, and in vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this
+unintelligible parley at some distance, (for they would not come close
+up,) we rode on. We came at length on a sandy country with much
+Callitris, but the whole surface was undulating, and we crossed several
+chains of deep ponds, all falling to our right, or eastward; some
+containing water. At length, I perceived on the right, a deeper valley, and
+found in it a little river with a rocky bed, and coming from the N. N. W.
+At two miles further, along my N. W. course, I found it crossed it,
+coming from W. S. W., and here I turned, well pleased to find an
+abundant supply of water, and a good country in the best direction for
+our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on rock, and the water was
+plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the evening, after sunset we
+were called to by a numerous tribe of natives, assembled on the opposite
+steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we had encamped. By the
+particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had seen in the
+morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was evidently
+their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil in the bud,
+and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in line before
+the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced steadily up the
+opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud jeering noise. They set
+up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced to the brow of the cliff,
+as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently ascended, they fell off, and,
+by the time we gained the height, they had retired to a considerable
+distance, still shouting vociferously. Two, however, were seen drawing
+round our left flank, in a little gully, followed by a female carrying
+spears. I discharged my rifle over their heads, upon which they hastened
+to their fellows. On firing another shot over the dark noisy mass before
+us, they became suddenly quite silent, probably persuaded that we were
+really in earnest. We marched through their camp, made a feint, by
+descending into a gully, of coming upon them unawares, and continued
+there, until silence and darkness secured our peaceful occupation of the
+ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and noise, which might have
+been kept up until morning, and until they had worked themselves into
+that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think they have courage to
+fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up, they were sure to
+have followed us, and gathered a savage population in our rear. Lat., 25°
+54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at 4 p.m., 70; at 9, 50°.
+(XXXIII.)
+
+<p>10TH JUNE.&mdash;We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession
+Creek, for so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until
+we filled a hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of
+yesterday. Thus we reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding
+much heavy sand in the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest
+point I had previously visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 p.m.,
+75°; at 9, 39°. Height above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)
+
+<p>11TH JUNE.&mdash;Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were
+obliged to turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction
+whence the river came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of
+only 3½ miles, and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I
+thus came upon the rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording
+an easy means of crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only
+passable place I had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere.
+The strata at this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced
+me to travel westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner,
+a synclinal line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We
+passed through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable
+elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained
+grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds
+falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water,
+whereupon I returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9
+p.m., 38°. Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)
+
+<p>12TH JUNE.&mdash;The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with
+ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a
+yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of waterworn
+pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a silicious
+petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse track of
+yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which grew
+brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we came
+upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew the
+GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10 feet. I
+found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was here
+1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further on
+were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became overcast
+with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight showers fell.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 74°; at 4p.m., 73°; at 9, 60°. The
+wind and clouds came from the west.
+
+<p>13TH JUNE.&mdash;The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the
+northward; nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again
+lose westing, until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W.
+The morning was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to
+gall the necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that
+direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow,
+rosewood, and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and
+continuous. I fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course
+there was from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more
+sandy, although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the
+northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it
+ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had
+almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then
+burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I
+therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make
+much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at noon, 57°; at 4 p.m.,
+54°; at 9, 48°.
+
+<p>[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles further
+would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the head of the
+river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]
+
+<p>14TH JUNE.&mdash;A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a
+change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were
+filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and
+took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered
+rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began to
+think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following
+down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25° 47'
+28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 55°; at 4 p.m., 57°; at 9,
+38° (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.
+
+<p>15TH JUNE.&mdash;In following down this chain of ponds, we found its
+channel became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few
+miles below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in
+one part of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it
+would have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the
+S.S.W. I thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path
+was thus again crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then
+travelled 12½ miles, and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the
+day's journey, with little exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but
+for the rain that had fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and
+oxen. As it was, they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river,
+Mr. Stephenson caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a
+circumstance almost proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We
+found this day a new narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with
+bark thick, soft, and fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA
+HOLOSERICEA was loaded with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods.
+Among the herbage was observed the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and
+the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the light dry sand. Novelty in the
+plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be expected; the weather was
+cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment tolerably efficient.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 p.m., 58°; at 9 p.m., 46° (XXXVII.).
+Height above the sea, 1827 feet.
+
+<p>[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus mucronatoacuminatis
+supra glabris subtùs subsericeis marginibus arcte revolutis,
+paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-tomentosis.
+These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every other
+species.]
+
+<p>16TH JUNE.&mdash;Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river
+I had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th
+instant. The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning
+was about 2½ miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and
+even south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there
+was a little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I
+had intersected from the high station east of the depôt. It now bore 12°
+west of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country
+would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris
+was, as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand
+between them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its
+course, consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when
+their direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of
+encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be
+found in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for
+water, I found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°;
+at 9 p.m., 54°. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.
+
+<p>[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis
+canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis
+superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus
+parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis
+concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very
+distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid
+hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant, but
+very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]
+
+<p>17TH JUNE.&mdash;Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain
+already mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick
+forests of callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open
+places amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground
+was undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of
+these ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at
+length attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the
+summit I ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond
+it, we came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we
+greatly wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon
+hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy
+flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous but
+dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this downwards
+about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the sandstone
+cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks. Ascending
+at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above, and an open
+forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up at a rocky
+point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the Maran,
+convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far off. We
+descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry watercourse
+lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river. Here,
+however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform
+breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W.,
+and I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,
+however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and
+the sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up
+the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found
+some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,
+which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for
+our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards
+until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without
+drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent
+throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from
+30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams
+might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained a
+vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was
+rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with
+rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make
+the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst
+the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I found,
+growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected by Allan
+Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of Hunter's
+River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on the
+Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 9 p.m., 61°.
+
+<p>18TH JUNE.&mdash;Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly
+refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal
+Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the
+bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until
+he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst
+the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the
+summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my
+survey, lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was
+unimpeded by gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive
+view, embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of
+volcanic cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the
+direction of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little
+could be seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies,
+by which the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint
+in a long line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed
+thus to pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges
+about the 25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden
+from my sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I
+had ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance
+bounded by low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides,
+like cliffs, towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke,
+indicated a good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station,
+that eastward of the depôt camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then
+attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the
+officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the
+summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,
+and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at
+a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could
+be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for
+which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race
+as had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science,
+and the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the
+world to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names
+were applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do
+honour to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a
+bald-forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to
+the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,
+Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished
+to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,
+Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all
+sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on
+which I stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as
+to form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,
+"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes
+grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst
+them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On
+returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a
+spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;
+having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal
+Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:
+thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds
+in the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the
+crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the
+horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more
+water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to the
+north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible from
+the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had found,
+in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone gullies
+radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards Mount
+Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of mountainous
+obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the principal
+features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for our carts
+in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first establish the
+party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it along the range
+towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be necessary, in order to
+turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking some rocky gully within a
+convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again to explore these recesses
+for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's pond in the main channel.
+Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two beautiful and delicate ferns,
+the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM ASSIMILE, the Australian
+maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII, on the
+rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a variety of E.
+SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 56°; at noon,
+69°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 55°. Height above the sea, 1578 feet; and above
+river bed 40 feet.
+
+<p>[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
+longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis) reticulatovenosis.
+This species is remarkable in the size and shape of its petiolated
+leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences (galls), each
+with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as many unequal
+projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of some
+BEGONIÀ.]
+
+<p>19TH JUNE.&mdash;Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the
+grass for our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point,
+the sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's
+track towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which
+broke abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to
+the right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
+river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
+valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
+horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had
+already found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water
+sufficient for the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down
+the valley while they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile
+from the camp. The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this
+one, were dry. Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent
+quality. Pigeons were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA)
+which is so great a luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the
+feathered race. The highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day
+appeared (by Captain King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet.
+That of the camp over the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of
+these cliffs above the bed of the river being thus about 300 feet.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 61°.
+
+<p>20TH JUNE.&mdash;I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the
+country beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest
+land, and a less broken country, in a direction much further to the
+westward than the course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I
+now proceeded W.N.W. towards that open forest land. We found the
+country open for some miles, then, entering a flat or valley, I descended
+gradually between sandstone rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep
+ponds led to the north-west. On following this down, I found it turned
+more and more to the westward, and at length to the south-west,
+whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy banks, and, following up a ravine
+from the other side, again endeavoured to pursue my intended course.
+We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a sandstone range, and descended
+by another valley which led first northward, but terminated in joining a
+spacious grassy flat with dry ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this
+downwards for several miles in a rainy evening, and found at last, to my
+disappointment, that this also turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and
+hemmed in by low rocky points of ground, of very uniform shape. Many
+marks of natives appeared on the trees, and, in good seasons, it must be
+one of their favourite spots. I left it, however, when darkness and heavy
+rain obliged me to look for shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward.
+By the time we arrived at this, we could see no grassy spot for our
+horses, nor any sort of cover for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a
+fallen tree, and under this, covered with a few boughs, we lay down on
+the wet earth for the night, being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal,
+water for ourselves and horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
+69°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 57°.
+
+<p>21ST JUNE.&mdash;The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we
+should have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of
+well filled ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment
+to this journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were
+unavoidable. On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine
+open forest hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of
+Mount Owen, had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak
+induced me to approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little
+water-course in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the
+product of last night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the
+deviation from my route. A group of the most picturesque hills
+imaginable lay to the northward, and were connected with this, the whole
+being branches from the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep
+blue colour, where their clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly
+of a golden hue, from the rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke
+through the heavy clouds and poured rays over them, which perfected the
+beauty of the landscape. I recognised, from this apex, my station on
+Mount Owen, and several hills I had intersected from it. Amongst others,
+the three remarkable cones to the westward of Mount Faraday,
+apparently a continuation of the line of summits I have already
+mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal trap in nodules, the
+crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of lime, and there were
+many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round shot, strewed about.
+A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest part, and, on this
+summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by local attraction, and
+quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket sextant, and with it took
+some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily enjoyed a breakfast, and
+named the hill which gave us the water, Mount Aquarius. Returning
+towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived at the head of a
+gully which led tolerably direct until we found our track, in the creek I
+had run down on the preceding day. But night was approaching, and we
+had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern before which a
+large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night there in my cloak,
+I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at the camp, at 4 p.m.,
+had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer to 22°, or 10°
+below the freezing point.
+
+<p>22D JUNE.&mdash;Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
+determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
+original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
+neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a passing
+shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
+Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route,
+from the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that
+summit to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of
+the Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land
+seemed the highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's
+Table Land. I could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix
+it in my map. I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the
+northward, and a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country
+beyond, through which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to
+prepare for a "raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at noon, 52°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 59°.
+
+<p>23D JUNE.&mdash;Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled
+nearly northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large
+kangaroo entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in
+avoiding those on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran,
+showed me that this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to
+Mount Clift from my former observations, and therefore followed it by
+keeping between the heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found
+one favourable for a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy,
+valley, extending about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes
+evidently held much water, although they were then dry. This soon,
+however, turned to the south-west, evidently to join the channel I had
+before explored. Quitting it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended
+sandstone cliffs and pushed through scrubs, determined to proceed
+directly north-ward, until I met with valleys falling north-west. We thus
+passed just under the most easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came,
+about sunset, to a hollow containing ponds, in two of which we found
+water. Here we gladly bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and
+were numerous higher up the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at
+noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 50°; at 9, 40°.
+
+<p>24TH JUNE.&mdash;The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
+frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
+which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
+Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
+after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing feature,
+(especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley descending to
+the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water holes, and in two of
+these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The course, throughout all
+its windings, was towards the north-west, and this I, at the time, thought,
+might be a northern water. I therefore returned, anxious to bring the party
+thus far, at all events, and resolved to follow this little river down. We
+arrived, on our way back, in the evening of the same day, in the valley I
+had quitted in the morning, having followed down a water-course from
+the end of Hope's Table Land, under which I had passed, in search of a
+good way for the carts. Although we had seen promising ponds of water
+in this little channel, we could find none in the lower part, having in the
+expectation of finding some, rode on until darkness prevented me from
+going further. We were thus obliged to pass the night (a very cold one)
+without water, and almost without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern
+where I had slept a few nights before, especially when I arose here in the
+night to mend the fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt
+afterwards that at the camp, the thermometer at 4 p.m. had been as low
+as 17° of Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 51°; at 4 P.
+M. 49°; at 9, 29°.
+
+<p>[* This was 15° degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much
+more easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
+moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
+Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated
+7th April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
+
+<p>"With a temperature of 20° below the freezing point, we found the ice to form
+so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the barrier in so
+extremely severe a period of the season being impracticable, we stood
+away to the westward, for the purpose of making another attempt to
+approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude (76° S.) on the 15th
+February."]
+
+<p>25TH JUNE.&mdash;Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
+minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
+rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
+not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
+bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
+stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
+the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount Clift,
+or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country, should be
+preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the eastern
+gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift than at the
+point where I before came down. But I found them much more
+acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
+rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
+called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
+from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
+its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
+towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us
+upon the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
+looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
+and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
+discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
+dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it!
+However that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding
+water. In the neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were
+collected; viz. NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES
+TENUIFOLIA, ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with
+HOVEA LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA,
+a low shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small
+species of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a
+verdant fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small
+red berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
+appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
+being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have
+been an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost
+tomentose above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus
+DODONOEA, frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its
+flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 50°; at 4 p.m. 51°;
+at 9, 22°.
+
+<p>[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus, foliis
+obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque, capsulis
+tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
+
+<p>26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
+finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
+course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed
+the barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be
+700 feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
+to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel along
+its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had bivouacked
+on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before sunset,
+encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which were
+two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the horses
+nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered out of
+buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
+abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
+cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+14°; at noon, 48°; at 4 p.m. 47°; at 9, 37°.
+
+<p>27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to
+come directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
+bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
+possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
+within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left, and
+some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
+encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
+cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
+way, about 3 p.m., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced
+with our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up
+by sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
+extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very luxuriant,
+apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately to the
+westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
+bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was
+open along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along
+its sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and
+various remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River,
+forming a shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 20°; at 9 p.m., 29°. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
+
+<p>28TH JUNE.&mdash;Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the
+ordinary weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the
+barometer also indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I
+sent the party forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to
+the ponds in the newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I
+proceeded myself, accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the
+fine cone already mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and
+extensive view of the mountains further northward. Most of the summits
+I had previously intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just
+appeared over an intermediate woody range, through which I was at a
+loss to discover where our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the
+north-west, I could just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills
+arising from a much lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever
+might be the final course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and
+water. The most important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a
+grey misty tint, as if it marked a valley descending from the highest
+eastern mountains, towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest.
+Bare crests of similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole
+extent of that valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in
+such a clime, with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if
+watered well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it
+was fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended
+consisted of trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at
+its base, and on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact
+felspathic rock which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has
+been considered a very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an
+altered rock. Here, in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to
+break into irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved;
+and I observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side
+lay uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60°. That this is a hypogene
+rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident at
+Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
+affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
+had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM
+ELLIPTICUM. I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since
+ascertained, by that officer's register and calculations, the height of this
+summit above the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159
+feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 25°. (XXXIX)
+
+<p>29TH JUNE.&mdash;Crossing a small tributary which was full of water
+(coming from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left
+bank of the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged
+me to make some détours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we
+regained the banks of the river, although our progress was not
+considerable. Its general course was still north-west, to the spot selected
+for my second camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks
+high, rounded, and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel
+was rarely to be seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent
+temporary showers seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I
+ascertained the variation of the needle to be 8° 4' E. here. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 53°. Height above the sea, 1914 feet.
+(XL.)
+
+<p>30TH JUNE.&mdash;The course of the river was now found to turn to the
+southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered with
+scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the carts
+along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did not
+proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged us to
+abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
+projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
+direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the
+bank, southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
+directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained a
+view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
+and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
+this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of smoke
+seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but, towards
+the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this disappointment.
+Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an intervening woody
+range, there indicated a much lower and different kind of country, as if
+that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern waters; the woody
+intervening range appearing to be the division between them. As our last
+explored river again turned southward, it seemed reasonable to expect,
+beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing a different course.
+This range was plainly traceable from the high mountains more to the
+eastward, and was continuous westward to three remarkable conical hills,
+beyond which, the view did not extend. On the same range, a fine tableshaped
+mountain appeared nearly north. This I had already intersected
+from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The hill on which I stood
+consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the western extremity of
+Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards found by Mr.
+Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That ravine was
+extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The bottle-tree
+(Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it, in the
+stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One thorny tree
+or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again appeared here;
+it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf somewhat like the human
+hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright scarlet colour, about the
+shape and size of a French bean. This, sometimes grew to a tree as much
+as a foot in diameter; and the natives, who, like Nature herself, may be
+said to do nothing in vain, had cut one down, and carried off the whole of
+the trunk. The wood was of a leaden colour. This proved to be a new
+species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*] By our last day's journey, we had lost
+two miles of northing, and had thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south
+latitude. I therefore determined to cross our friendly little river, and look
+for another beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+44°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1732
+feet. (XLI.)
+
+<p>[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
+foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
+lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.&mdash;Although
+no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the pod
+and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad and
+not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings extended.]
+
+<p>1ST JULY.&mdash;With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to
+look into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
+western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
+into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
+that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
+into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
+to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
+clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I take
+him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out, and
+ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
+accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran northwest,
+and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow it
+then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
+back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
+to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
+way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to
+me. One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other
+or any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave
+to this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
+side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
+Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
+none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
+particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved ironbark,
+was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
+leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered
+lead-wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant
+among the grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was
+producing its small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow
+leaves and globular fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new
+CAPPARIS.[**] Thermometer, at daybreak, 35°; at 9 p.m., 38°.
+
+<p>[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis
+obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus subsolitariis.]
+
+<p>[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,
+foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus
+aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,
+stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-14"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-14.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Tree without branches</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>2D JULY.&mdash;Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I
+had been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it
+widened very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a
+deep current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices
+seemed to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most
+picturesque outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us,
+resembled pyramids, and I saw an open country beyond them, from
+which other summits of extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we
+had found no moisture in the ponds, and lamented that a country, in
+every other respect so fine, should be without water. Further on, I
+perceived reeds in the hollow of the valley, and Yuranigh said there must
+be a spring, upon which he walked in amongst them, but still found the
+earth dry. The reeds at length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at
+the lower part of the flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to
+examine that point. He emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a
+distance, made Douglas, my other man, say, "He has found water." He
+had found A RUNNING STREAM, to which he had been guided by its own
+music, and taking a tin pot, he brought me some of it. The water was
+clear and sparkling, tasting strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that
+this was the head of a river that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of
+picturesque beauty and pastoral abundance, within eighty miles of the
+tropics, we had discovered the first running stream seen on this journey. I
+returned, determined to bring the party thus far, and with the intention of
+passing that night where we had found water in a rock about six miles
+back, that we might sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had
+also the benefit of a cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we
+defied the frost of a very cold night, the thermometer having been
+registered at the camp, at 3 a.m., as low as 7°. In the scrubs we had
+passed through in the morning, a variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA,
+with grey velvety leaves, was scarcely in flower; and I observed a
+beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS with large tubular flowers.[*] The
+ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the sandstone ground above the gullies,
+and a broad-leaved form of the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone
+brightly, and the rock being full of silver mica, the splendour of the scene
+imparted to my eye and mind then a degree of gratification far beyond
+any associations of the richest furniture of a palace. We found it
+impossible to get our horses to the water; but we hit upon an expedient
+which answered even better than a bucket,&mdash;my Mackintosh cloak.
+
+<p>[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi in
+petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis acuminatis,
+corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra medium
+solutâ.&mdash;Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines long.
+Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]
+
+<p>3D JULY.&mdash;In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and
+found an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at
+the camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part
+of the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°;
+at noon, 60; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 26°. Height of camp above the sea, 1800
+feet. (XLII.)
+
+<p>4TH JULY.&mdash;The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this
+morning. Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the
+banks had been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance
+we hit upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy
+valley descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky
+crooked part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub
+directly to the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the
+valley, and arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of
+my bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by
+Arcturus) to be 24° 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 4 p.m.,
+49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-15"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-15.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The Pyramids</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>5TH JULY.&mdash;Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze
+our tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We
+proceeded along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which
+appeared quite isolated, and just such as painters place in middle
+distance, I named Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of
+the right bank of the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had
+suddenly brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we
+had before us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards
+the country we were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country
+seemed new to us. The barometer showed we were rapidly descending,
+and I expected that our living stream would soon join that greater stream,
+the basin of which I thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from
+Mount P. P. King on the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the
+others, curved round from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in
+mountains equidistant between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it
+was reasonable to suppose that we had at length crossed the division
+between northern and southern waters. That between eastern and western
+waters was still to be discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where
+water was so scarce then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means
+of determining where that division was. If the general course of this river
+was found to be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that
+the dividing ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the
+westward of north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our
+route, and this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing
+north-westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King.
+Latitude 24° 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P.
+M., 49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, according to sixteen
+observations, 1421 feet. (XLIV.)
+
+<p>6TH JULY.&mdash;A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA
+appeared amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods
+below, we found an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA
+(Reichb.) VAR. MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was
+less angular, and the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long
+hoary leaves, and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA,
+at a later season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also
+was found here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**]
+Travelling along the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of
+sparkling water to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could
+only account for the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a
+season, by the support of many springs. We made sure of water now for
+the rest of our journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et
+labetur in omne volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any
+I had ever seen in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals
+in ruins; others forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and
+contrasted with the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a
+fine stream in the foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole
+country. It was a discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those
+beautiful recesses of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown.
+The better to mark them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of
+Salvator Rosa.[***] The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the
+thick woods, just as John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them
+out in his beautiful sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature
+come so near these creations of genius and imagination. Where we
+encamped, the river was very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that
+the use of a bucket was necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding
+every precaution, one animal walked into the river, and could not be got
+out without great difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were
+two enormous eels, beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus
+lay abundantly on the banks, about the old fires of the natives. These
+were larger than either those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran;
+and although such freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a
+peculiarity in these was pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they
+much resembled the impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is
+much broader at the toes than at the heel). We here met with a new
+species of BORONIA, resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties
+afterwards occurred. It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale
+purple flowers.[****] A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining
+leaves, also grew here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed
+resembling European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with
+white flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS
+formed a small shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4
+p.m., 49°; at 9, 38°. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.
+
+<p>[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus
+supra glabris subtus incanis, paniculâ terminali tomentosâ, floribus
+distantibus.]
+
+<p>[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis
+oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris
+trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime
+pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6 linearibus
+glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]
+
+<p>[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and
+ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on
+mouldering castles."&mdash;ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]
+
+<p>[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis
+pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus subsolitariis
+axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]
+
+<p>[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis
+falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis
+subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis
+solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel
+brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia
+shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually
+almost sessile.]
+
+<p>7TH JULY.&mdash;Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon
+found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in
+one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush
+mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the
+current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the
+hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most
+charming morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an
+open forest which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and
+in a general direction about north-west. At length we approached the
+northern limits of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it,
+as we had reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry
+channel, which bore the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons.
+Following this dry channel down, I found its course turned to the
+northward, and even to the north-east. When we were disposed to
+encamp, I could find no water in the bed, nor were we better off when we
+had encamped, until Corporal Graham dug between two rocks therein,
+and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in one day vanished the pleasing
+prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of a stream flowing in the
+direction of our intended route. This might be, I then thought, the
+tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would be found to flow
+westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the desired north-west
+direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at 4 p.m., 58°; at 9, 25°.
+(XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.
+
+<p>8TH JULY.&mdash;Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this
+river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling
+into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick
+brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged
+gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,
+induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined to
+penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that there I
+might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction, or, if not,
+cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was lost,
+however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses
+crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The
+scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings
+admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of sunset, I
+found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only half a
+minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with difficulty, about
+two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of a small watercourse,
+I found that even this turned south-east, evidently to fall into the
+reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I determined on an
+immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back to our friendly
+river. It was comparatively easy to return through the opening we had
+made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so that by
+twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the river, and
+near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying almost in my
+face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we afterwards found
+the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of the bullocks got
+bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole strength of the party
+dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at 4 p.m., 54°; at
+9, 25°. Height above the sea, 1241 feet.
+
+<p>9TH JULY.&mdash;The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the
+scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and
+the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24° 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+14°; (in my tent, 18°;) at 9 p.m., 48°.
+
+<p>10TH JULY.&mdash;Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight
+eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to cut
+a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.
+While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but
+met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that
+direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.
+towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined
+them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through
+open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy
+gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.
+Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the
+border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24° 33'
+25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 p.m., 62°; at 9,
+29°. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.
+
+<p>11TH JULY.&mdash;We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a
+fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again
+impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of
+this river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a
+large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to the
+eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward. It
+was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the coast,
+and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in it, about
+the latitude of 25° S. This was more apparent to me on crossing the river,
+and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He could see
+no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high table land
+already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could trace the course
+of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed them to encamp, and
+proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W. direction, carrying
+provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea of Brigalow&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote>"&mdash;&mdash;And we did buffet it,<br>
+With lusty sinews throwing it aside,<br>
+And stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."</blockquote>
+
+<p>After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were
+rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.
+That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the
+foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood,
+extended far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of
+mountains of romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.
+
+<p>"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"
+
+<p>included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which,
+with its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the
+finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a perfectly
+clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had emerged,
+through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond that spot,
+until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits before
+me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these masses,
+seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my
+observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,
+the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a
+great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of
+quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it. I
+could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense of
+shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and prove
+ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had indulgently
+destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we traversed,
+consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood in great
+abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden as to be
+only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken character.
+Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich black earth,
+which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history may be simple,
+and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy could but find it
+out. We found, further on, a channel full of water, with reeds about the
+bed of it. There had been a current in it a short time previously, and,
+indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in some hollows in the
+Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and thus might have
+afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had other directions
+been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow near the water,
+not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and thus we passed the
+night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 18°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>12TH JULY.&mdash;Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the
+assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,
+than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed
+Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the
+reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet in
+that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the
+remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,
+although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason for
+supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could escape
+to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; in my tent, 15°; at noon,
+67° at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 35°. Height above the sea, 1107 feet.
+
+<p>13TH JULY.&mdash;After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river
+Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W., but
+deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick
+scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we
+crossed, was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the
+river, where I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains
+adjacent, the ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we
+saw also various new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs
+in the scrub. The banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay.
+I employed the party to make a bridge across it, and this was well
+completed before sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4
+p.m. 68°; at 9, 40°. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)
+
+<p>14TH JULY.&mdash;Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we
+travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the richest
+plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS, and
+PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most
+abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have
+been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived
+at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We
+soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,
+apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub
+of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so
+thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad, but
+because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so easily
+take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack, after
+imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich land was
+thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex, agate, and
+chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most strikingly
+resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an entire trunk
+lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains of a tree! I
+obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of this were rare.
+The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was 1512 feet above the
+sea.
+
+<p>Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to
+the westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping
+towards a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to
+find an open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at
+length arrived. I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and
+having halted the party to examine them, I found they were quite
+impassable. Such an unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open
+country, yet UNDER that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it
+was unexpected, and I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I
+had seen on our right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also
+found some large ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were
+pitching the tents I rode down the valley about two miles, and found that
+the direction of the water-course was about north-east. Such a direction
+was not very favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country
+beyond the limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it
+further. Latitude, 24° 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 p.m.,
+66°; at 9, 49°. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.
+
+<p>15TH JULY.&mdash;Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I
+proceeded about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length,
+mighty rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further.
+Leaving him in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely
+accessible with Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated
+summit, I saw still worse gullies before us, amongst which I could
+perceive no feature affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any
+characteristic of the structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the
+rugged summits I had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered,
+and could not then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on
+completing my map), that they were then under my feet. The highest
+parts seemed to extend south-westward. To cross such a region with our
+carts, was quite impossible, and I could only return, and, however
+reluctantly, follow down the valley in which we had encamped, until it
+should afford access to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse
+were steep, the bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous,
+alternately closing on rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus
+we were obliged to cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered
+each crossing a difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after
+crossing ten times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct
+distance from the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each
+crossing, cut the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general
+direction, I ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near
+the spot, where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this
+having been the first water we had seen during that day's laborious
+journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 44°.
+
+<p>16TH JULY.&mdash;After some examination of the valley before us, I
+considered it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself,
+and thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour
+and delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore
+distressing to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to
+work out of it, to get round them. The whole day was consumed in
+proceeding thus about 5½ miles, and in an easterly direction. The
+closing in of the valley lower down, seemed to shut us from further
+progress even so, and I encamped, rather at a loss how to proceed. Just
+then Mr. Stephenson came to inform me that he had seen, from a rocky
+point on the left, an opening to the north-west, and level ground beyond
+it. I therefore determined to accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre
+the country in that direction. By digging in the bed of the creek, water
+was again obtained by Corporal Graham. Some extremely fragrant
+shrubs were discovered in these rocky recesses, especially one, which
+filled the air with perfume to a great distance around. It seemed to be a
+EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit, but with a powerful odour of balm,
+and formed a bush five feet high, growing on sandstone rocks, having a
+narrow leaf, and rather thorny stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*]
+There was another bush, with leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but
+having a perfume equally strong of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that
+neither the seed, flower, nor fruit of these interesting shrubs could be
+obtained at that season. In that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS
+BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed, and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The
+soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began to indicate its flowering season,
+and we found a magnificent new crimson CALLISTEMON with its young
+flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new DODONOEA with wingless,
+3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species of AOTUS, with narrow hoary
+leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees was a splendid new GEIGERA, with
+broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very
+singular and little known fern, with narrow leaves and small orbicular
+leaflets, was also there, with the ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a
+shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The
+BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-like heads of flowers, was common;
+and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA MONOPHYLLA was observed among
+the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 9 p.m., 41°.
+
+<p>[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
+foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
+basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
+
+<p>[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute tuberculatis,
+foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-parallelo-venosis
+viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to name this
+EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the deliciously fragrant
+lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as the recent state of the
+plant.]
+
+<p>[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
+quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
+lanatis.]
+
+<p>[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-lanceolatis
+parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis 3-
+locularibus trigonis apteris.]
+
+<p>[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
+crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis, calycis
+vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
+villosissimo.&mdash;Near A. PASSERINOÏDES Meisn., but differing in the
+narrow and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
+
+<p>[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe petiolatis subtus
+obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.&mdash;This appears to differ
+from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
+
+<p>17TH JULY.&mdash;Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes.
+By merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another
+water-course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came
+from the west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I
+had previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
+this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
+deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
+broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
+gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
+all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling to
+my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
+and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at the
+gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to guard the
+entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and kangaroos
+were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very attentively, to
+be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature only. A turret
+with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first appeared through the
+trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a round hill. On a nearer
+approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey rocks, and the small pines
+climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising out of a forest of common
+trees, presented still a very remarkable object. I named the valley "Glen
+Turret," and this feature "Tower Almond," after an ancient castle, the
+scene of many early associations, and now quite as uninhabited as this.
+Passing through Glen Turret, we ascended the nearest summit on the
+right, and from it beheld a prospect most cheering, after our toils amid
+rocky ravines. On the westward, the rocky range seemed to terminate
+abruptly towards the north, in an elevated point, which seemed to
+command an extensive view over the unknown W. and N.W. Out of that
+region two isolated mountain masses arose from an open country, and
+were clothed with open forests to their summits. Further eastward,
+masses of mountain in the extreme distance appeared covered, also, with
+open forests, and presented finely rounded outlines, not likely to impede
+our passage, in any direction. But towards the N.W. our view was not so
+extensive; like the uncertain future, it still lay hid. The retrospect was
+very extensive, including Mount Faraday in the extreme distance, and
+which thus afforded me a valuable back angle for the correction of our
+longitude from any errors of detailed survey. The lofty mass of
+Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E., and I could here
+again intersect its three principal points. The view back to the Pass was
+very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on the bold summits,
+as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to the westward, an
+interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach, presenting a crescent,
+concave on that side, apparently the limit to the basin of the Nogoa, and
+the dividing range between eastern and western waters. Our Pass seemed
+to be the only outlet through the labyrinths behind us. Even the open
+plains beyond them were visible in a yellow streak above the precipices.
+Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was distinctly visible, on the
+horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at 9 p.m., 43°.
+(LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-17"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-17.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Tower Almond</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>18TH JULY.&mdash;By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
+brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
+obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its elevated
+extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction, tolerably
+open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of grass, and
+near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds descending to the
+eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the habit of a dwarf
+Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24° 6' 47" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 31°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 44°. (LII.)
+
+<p>[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
+cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus solitariis
+sessilibus.]
+
+<p>19TH JULY.&mdash;With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting
+further to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most
+northern summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up
+by gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
+and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
+near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
+summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
+Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
+apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
+feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
+the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
+appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features, although
+much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then stood,
+seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some higher
+ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the coast.
+Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken hills,
+at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-connected
+undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the south-east,
+whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy Creek, while
+others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a separate
+basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river was
+indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the left
+or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated mountain
+mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the valley
+formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point of the
+whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite, lay in
+that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10° W. of N.)
+through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
+mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
+according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
+not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
+named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
+were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
+itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
+impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
+camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
+two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
+Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
+that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
+handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
+Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham
+took the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
+expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
+woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or deeds
+suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
+this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
+which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered
+a very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
+leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
+gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
+Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**]. Although
+we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
+pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed
+us to the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had
+been frosty. Latitude, 24° 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at
+noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 47°.
+
+<p>[* See page 285.]
+
+<p>[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
+lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
+canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-18"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-18.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map VI. The River Belyando</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter06"></a>
+<h4>Chapter VI.</h4>
+
+
+<blockquote>THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.&mdash;COMES UPON A CHAIN
+OF PONDS.&mdash;THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.&mdash;FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
+WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.&mdash;RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
+EASTWARD.&mdash;CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.&mdash;MOUNT NARRIEN.&mdash;OPEN
+PLAINS, WEST OF THE RIVER.&mdash;WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.&mdash;NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.
+&mdash;DRY CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.&mdash;CROSS IT AND
+PROCEED N.W.&mdash;FROM A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.&mdash;MUCH
+BRIGALOW SCRUB TRAVERSED.&mdash;REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.&mdash;FOLLOW THE
+CHANNEL MORE CLOSELY.&mdash;COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.&mdash;ANOTHER DRY
+CHANNEL JOINS FROM W.S.W.&mdash;RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE
+NORTH-WEST.&mdash;CROSS FINE DOWNS.&mdash;LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.&mdash;ENTER THICK
+BRIGALOW.&mdash;NIGHT WITHOUT WATER.&mdash;NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.&mdash;ITS
+COURSE BEING EASTWARD OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.&mdash;NATIVES.&mdash;RETRACE
+OUR TRACK TO THE PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE
+WESTWARD.&mdash;PREPARE TO DEPART, WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.&mdash;WRITE DESPATCH
+TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.</blockquote>
+
+<p>20TH JULY.&mdash;AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow
+scrub, on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land,
+and crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards
+the N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right,
+resembling a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was
+precipitous, and seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after
+crossing a ridge rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub
+upon it, and one or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the
+bottle tree, (DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses
+descending to the southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W.
+One, at length, on our right, taking the direction in which I was
+proceeding, viz., 10° W. of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a
+broader valley leading N.W. Following this, on a wide flat of open forest,
+we found at length a fine pond of water in it, and encamped beside it,
+after a journey of about twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to
+the base of the lofty isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower
+valley crossed it, falling either to the northward or southward. This I left
+in pleasing uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that
+locality, when I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running
+north and south. I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount
+Beaufort, in honour of my scientific friend at the Admiralty.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 66°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 62°.
+(LIII.)
+
+<p>21ST JULY.&mdash;On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad
+valley, we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly
+turned in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from
+the south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
+Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we
+had at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil
+consisted of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey.
+We got amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for
+the channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
+Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
+no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
+brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon
+arid stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently
+from drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means
+encouraging. On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles,
+at an old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that
+water was not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two
+native companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay,
+on which salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the
+Bogan, had been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The
+very grass seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so
+checked by drought. A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees,
+and convert the country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured
+further, to send the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to
+examine the country before us. Latitude, 23° 48' 36". Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 57°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 48°.
+
+<p>22D JULY.&mdash;Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water,
+I went forward on the bearing of 30° W. of N. I soon fell in with the
+united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
+direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
+these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
+ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
+northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
+them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to
+relieve me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A
+promising valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west,
+and from it arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers,
+from other ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured
+the outlines of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this
+morning were a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of
+yesterday. Such is human life in travelling, and so it was in war at
+Salamanca this day thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short
+journey on the bank of the river. Latitude, 24° 46' 46". Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 49°, at noon, 74°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 64°. (LIV.)
+
+<p>23D JULY.&mdash;The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so
+that none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning.
+Accordingly, on arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to
+all, that they might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we
+not fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread
+into little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes
+formed by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of
+the grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been
+due, and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we
+had travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
+scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
+with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
+and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the
+water-worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were,
+besides the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt.
+Very old and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were
+small fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large
+forked tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
+eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
+apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
+23° 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m. 80;
+at 9, 55°. (LV.)
+
+<p>24TH JULY.&mdash;The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air
+was balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney.
+Lightning had been seen to the northward during the night. In following
+the little wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub,
+and crossed two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a
+good large pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling
+the main channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles.
+With the last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became
+neighbours to the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was
+to be seen, and the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in
+length, with ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of
+thunder was heard in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year,
+that we were near the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms
+exhausted themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where
+they fell. During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next
+morning, to the northward. Latitude, 23° 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+56°; at noon, 75°; at 4, p.m., 82°; at 9, 66°. (LVI.)
+
+<p>25TH JULY.&mdash;There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
+route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
+Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
+line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
+just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
+fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
+The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
+improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
+rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to
+the eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At
+eight miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many
+ducks, and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good,
+finding that water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we
+required it. Latitude, 23° 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at
+noon, 77°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 53°. (LVII.)
+
+<p>26TH JULY.&mdash;The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out
+in that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
+scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
+of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
+genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
+travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
+indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
+straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
+rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
+new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
+flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
+useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain;
+and useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
+fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late, I
+travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained its
+banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
+bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst it,
+evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
+spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
+terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and fruit.
+Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and underside
+of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span long, cordato
+acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green and
+glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
+pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
+Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
+seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 79°; at 4 p.m., 89°; at 9, 75°.
+(LVIII,)
+
+<p>[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis, foliis
+impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis subalternis.]
+
+<p>27TH JULY.&mdash;The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
+variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much
+whereof lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there
+was any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
+little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
+water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as close
+as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
+yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
+was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
+thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
+named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a
+range in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only
+to send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
+westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
+water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
+miles. Latitude, 23° 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 83°; at 4
+p.m., 90°; at 9, 53°. (LIX.)
+
+<p>28TH JULY.&mdash;The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
+hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
+southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
+and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
+formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
+impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
+to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from the
+usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
+party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
+by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
+over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
+fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had
+been flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed
+there, the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of
+water, and beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a
+tribe of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of
+decayed stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once
+grown, and that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing;
+as if, according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to
+open downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular
+seasons, become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted
+in the scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the
+plain, and across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through
+some open forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the
+many dry channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom
+then consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit
+it, and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly
+undulating ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the
+LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a
+tree, from whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of
+which I ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it,
+through which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The
+extreme westerly escarp of these hills bore 17° E. of N., so that nothing
+was likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
+direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
+consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
+brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
+stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
+On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
+good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
+plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
+found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23° 5'
+20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9,
+58°. (XL.)
+
+<p>29TH JULY.&mdash;The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of
+easy access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a
+N.W. direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood
+and other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew
+in the place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open,
+park-like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a
+greenness was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these
+tropical regions. Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA
+HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike
+plant, and a form of Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the
+two other varieties. This was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species
+of the genus GEIJERA formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender
+weeping branches. It was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA,
+except that its flowers were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus
+STENOCHILUS, but new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large
+spreading tree, from which we could bring away nothing that would
+enable botanists to describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of
+the leaves, which, Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE;
+but the fruit appeared to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect
+to lead to any satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently
+from those near Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another
+language." This river was not the least unique of our recent discoveries.
+It still consisted of a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any
+one continuous channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by
+various trees growing in the banks. When their large roots became
+denuded by the floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that
+the tree fell over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the
+floating-wreck, and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of
+floating wreck became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so
+formed forced the river into new currents, working out new courses; and
+this appeared to give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It
+seems extremely favourable for the retention of water in a country where
+it may be scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun,
+preserve it much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed
+channel alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found
+the hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded
+in discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
+naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
+although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
+attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
+delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
+90° about 4 p.m., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
+recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
+disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
+in May. Latitude, 22° 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon,
+80°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 51°. (LXI.)
+
+<p>[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus in
+petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
+
+<p>[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
+apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
+lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis infimâ
+retusâ vix caeteris magis solutâ.&mdash;Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but much
+whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the lower
+one much broader.]
+
+<p>30TH JULY.&mdash;The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
+endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
+the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to the
+left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into extensive
+plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and that was
+skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we entered an
+open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw, from the skirts
+of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the east for several
+days past, and I was able to intersect various points. We seemed to be
+descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon, covered with
+ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved both as
+to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet high,
+was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
+DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M. DULCE. A
+hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained abundance
+of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and, instead of
+brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong grass, and much
+verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble to cross, and
+soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had run well to
+the westward. We had crossed the 147° of E. longitude, and I was very
+anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I crossed it, and
+hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a flat-topped cliffy
+range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was low; the middle
+part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our camp. It was
+likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our purpose. Latitude,
+22° 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at
+9, 45°. (LXII.)
+
+<p>31ST JULY.&mdash;We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
+that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in a
+deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
+I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
+river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This new
+river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened across
+it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction of the two
+rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green pods and dry
+pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than those of
+Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?) Beyond
+the last found river, we travelled over open forest land, occasionally
+passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might again see
+water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our abundant
+little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for such was the
+bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious dry lagoon.
+Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large floods from the
+river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still continuing along
+the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared, and I finally
+encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The course and
+character of the river below the junction last mentioned, remained to be
+ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which, before the rain, had
+been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen, which bore some
+resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered in any quantity.
+The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form from any to be
+seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard clay about the size
+and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being larger, or as much
+as 3½ feet high, others smaller. In some places they were so numerous,
+as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst, especially where the grass
+was long. Latitude of this camp, 22° 44' 45". Thermometer, at sunrise,
+52°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 43°. (LXIII.)
+
+<p>1ST AUGUST.&mdash;Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
+followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came
+upon the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many
+miles in that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where
+the very coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina
+appeared amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh
+went to the top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to
+the eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
+course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low range
+already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country between
+the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very low.
+Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
+course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction, and
+forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
+much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
+Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
+important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
+grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
+lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
+ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
+encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
+appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
+woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
+white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
+tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
+bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
+LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
+Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary
+CAPPARIS was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight
+inches long, although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and
+their hard leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
+afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 44°. Latitude, 22° 38' 40".
+(LXIV.)
+
+<p>[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
+longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
+solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
+
+<p>2D AUGUST.&mdash;We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain,
+but lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W.
+course in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests
+alternating with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving
+dry hollows where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all
+these hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and
+children, remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These
+numerous receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with
+which even the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of
+the animal world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that
+sort of scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river,
+by travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
+the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
+camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
+river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
+would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
+nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
+terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
+be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40° N. of W. to
+40° E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost
+bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the
+river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned
+direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In the
+dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite new
+to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and a
+very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found near
+this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS CURVIPES
+was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of Acacia was
+perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also a curious
+scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22° 30' 10" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 29°; at noon, 61°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 40°. (LXV.)
+
+<p>[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
+oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
+pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
+pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.&mdash;Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
+distinct.]
+
+<p>[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus, oblongospathulatis
+acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et obsolete
+dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis radicalibus
+elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum vel
+trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-lanceolatis,
+floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis, membranaceis,
+ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis, petiolatisque; antherae
+liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum, labiis compressis,
+cochleariforme.&mdash;Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent. lata, crassinervia;
+scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum elongati.]
+
+<p>[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
+glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
+laciniis duabus supremis diù vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
+subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
+
+<p>3D AUGUST.&mdash;Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
+crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the river
+bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain distance
+from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had been
+accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the river,
+and other food. The river was found to spread into separate channels, in
+which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them again united in a
+splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general course was by no
+means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was much to be
+apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast, and become
+another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the interior
+country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys have been
+made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
+polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
+brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part where
+we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded by
+torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn banks,
+and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from these
+obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
+scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
+two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
+coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
+the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten miles.
+The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics, which they
+seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That we had just
+quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for brigalow scrubs,
+and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered river seemed quite
+the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform; the banks being
+covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was sandy, but
+contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us to higher
+regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might fall in the
+direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin fish of the
+Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in the river to
+which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other sorts. There
+was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in particular, growing
+in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining bark of the tea-tree
+(mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of the eucalyptus; a
+HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI, but not in flower; a
+CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or at least closely allied to
+it, occupied the dry sandy ground with MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded
+weed; and some Cinchonad allied to Coffea, with young fruit, the
+size of small olives. Latitude, 22° 23' 10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°;
+at noon, 59°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 37°; with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVI.)
+
+<p>4TH AUGUST.&mdash;We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit
+the head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in
+any direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
+soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
+it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
+to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
+ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
+length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
+and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one
+piece of rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the
+rest, and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated flattopped
+range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
+similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
+woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
+still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
+eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
+northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
+these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to follow
+in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the horizon,
+I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to have found
+water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and absorbent.
+There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22° 19' 45" S. On this day's
+journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan, none
+of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed the
+Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like mint,
+was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new
+MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at
+9, 29°; with wet bulb, 18°.
+
+<p>[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
+excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis acuminatis
+appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis obtusis
+imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis globosis.&mdash;A
+very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII, Endl.: but
+extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of the copious
+slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the bleached slender
+branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the leaves had been, as it
+were, sunk.]
+
+<p>5TH AUGUST.&mdash;The last-found river not having answered my
+expectations, we had come quite far enough from the one we had
+previously followed, which still might have turned N.W., where we
+wished it to go; although I confess the prospect was by no means
+promising. The doubt was still to be removed, and, after a night passed
+without water, the earliest dawn saw us again going forward, in a
+direction a little to the eastward of N. It was only after pursuing that line
+for seventeen miles, that we again found the river, unchanged in
+character, and still running northerly. This was a trying day for our
+animals, as they could not be watered until long after it was dark; a
+brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber, having retarded and impeded
+the carts so that they could not be got to the water sooner. Nor had this
+been possible, even then, but for the fortunate circumstance of our
+having the light of a nearly full moon. I had preceded the party by some
+miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest following my horse's tracks,
+and I had thus passed through the four miles of scrub, and reached the
+river early in the day. On returning, we found the party in the midst of
+this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even by moonlight, to the pond at
+which we had watered our horses during the day. Many dry hollows of
+indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the brigalow we had passed
+through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as much as possible,
+through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs, many of which we
+were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many deep impressions
+of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also the tracks of emus.
+Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had been following a
+kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method adopted by the
+natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,&mdash;which is, to
+pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they overtake the
+animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at length so
+defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk. According
+to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much higher
+above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still it spread
+into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being sometimes in
+good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be more sterile
+than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first indication of the
+river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass, and we had to ride
+two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find the river, having
+been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives. At the first place
+we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water, under the
+shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22° 10' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 36°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVII.)
+
+<p>6TH AUGUST.&mdash;I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
+an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
+
+<p>7TH AUGUST.&mdash;The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along
+the river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
+and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
+channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water, glittered
+before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger water-fowl
+shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to the northeast,
+as if our river had been either breaking off in that direction, or met
+with some important tributary from that side. I continued to travel northwest,
+passing through some fine open forests. The character of the
+country seemed changed. The grass was of a different kind, and a
+refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of water," as
+Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared still to be
+continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward, the more I
+was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at length
+approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found this was a
+river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as the one we
+had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new tributary
+from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had been
+pursuing would turn westward&mdash;on the contrary, it became but too
+probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
+towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
+eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
+opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
+ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
+could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction. Their
+report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take a ride
+forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W., and at
+two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was found
+to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still continued
+northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The STENOCHILUS
+PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet high, and in
+the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E. HYPERICIFOLIA,
+but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not glabrous. The
+DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy fruits, clothed
+the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude, 22° 2' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 55°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb 49°. (LXVIII).
+
+<p>[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
+bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
+arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis densifloris,
+floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque tomentosis, folliculis
+oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis glabris.&mdash;Allied to G.
+CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves are narrower, not
+golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely secund: a splendid
+species.]
+
+<p>[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissimè pilosa, foliis pinnatis pinnis
+oppositis 4&mdash;5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel incisis,
+rachi articulatâ articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis tetrapteris
+villosissimis.]
+
+<p>8TH AUGUST.&mdash;With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first,
+northward by compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub,
+upon fine open downs covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil
+was soft and rich, the grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias
+were strewed over these downs, which were very extensive, and from
+them I saw several rather high hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly
+over a low country to the northward. Supposing that the main channel
+would there turn round to the eastward, I proceeded north-west to
+examine the country. I soon entered a thick scrub of rosewood and other
+Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON NERVOSUM, previously seen (July)
+with rich crimson flowers, forming a large tree, in the dry open forest,
+with perfectly green spikes; also, on the branches of Eucalypti, a
+beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil was rich, yielding, and rather
+bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated limestone, or marble, appeared
+on the surface, showing that the improvement in the soil was owing to a
+change in the rocks under it. Again emerging on open plains, the country
+seemed to fall northward, which induced me to ride again in that
+direction, thinking we might meet with some river either coming from
+the N. W. or leading there. The open plains terminated upon a hollow full
+of trees, growing, as was very evident, on a lower surface. The hollows
+resembled those of brigalow scrub, and we soon found this tree in full
+possession of them. Dry channels, leading in various directions between
+N. W. and E. engaged my attention throughout the afternoon: indeed,
+they seemed interminable. At length, we detected some continuity in the
+hollows, leading towards the N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it,
+abundance of grass on the banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows
+hovering over one, raised our hopes that it contained water, as we also
+perceived a line of green vegetation over the margin. It was deep and full
+of water. Here, about 4 p.m., we were thus enabled to water our horses,
+and continue our ride independently of finding more water that evening.
+We next perceived an open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the
+country from it, we saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering
+the brigalow scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct,
+and I at length lost it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a
+direction in which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the
+mazes of another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions
+between N. W. and 20° N. of E., the latter being the general course.
+During this unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where
+the dry and naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had
+come thirty miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark,
+that I found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and
+lay down to pass the night.
+
+<p>9TH AUGUST.&mdash;We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded
+again into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous
+channel, and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a
+plain. Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very
+much resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found
+the river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
+ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
+We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while
+engaged laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives
+looking at us from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough
+to one who stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who
+instantly replied to my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It
+was a brief but intelligible interview; no words could have been better
+understood on both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we
+saw these natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had
+been turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
+while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was
+telegraphing with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some
+vessel with water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled,
+and advanced to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also
+that they might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green
+bough and subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us.
+Yuranigh was burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed
+him to throw them about, that the natives might see that we neither eat
+their kangaroos nor emus. I found the course of the river very straight,
+but rather more than it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts
+of the channel, lay deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other
+places, shallow hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the
+river's currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a
+grassy part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we
+had reached that morning.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-19"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-19.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Missile club of natives of Central Australia</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>10TH AUGUST.&mdash;Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the
+north, with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove
+as rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great
+novelty to us there. About 9 a.m., the sky was wholly overcast; but it
+finally cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3
+p.m., having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower.
+There I found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of
+water, being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined
+to explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
+the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
+visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all very
+strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them carried
+three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and a
+gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts. They
+said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
+pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr.
+Stephenson happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then
+beckoned to the party that they also should follow or go where I had
+gone, or leave that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and
+patiently, by the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my
+man Brown, being very desirous that I should return before they
+departed; thinking the old man might have given me some information
+about the river, which he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation
+seemed to arise between the old chief and the tallest man, about the
+clubs, during which the latter again came forward, and beckoned to
+others behind, who came close up also. Each carried a club under each
+arm, and another in each hand, and from the gestures made to this
+advanced party, by the rest of the tribe of young men at a distance, it
+appeared that this was intended to be a hostile movement. Brown
+accordingly drew out the men in line before the tents, with their arms in
+their hands, and forbade the natives to approach the tents. "Nothing
+damps the ardour of troops so much," says General Lloyd, "as an
+unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and these strong men
+stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five men in line, with
+incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our three dogs ran at
+them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better. They all took to
+their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of their tribe; and the only
+casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which biting at the legs of a native
+running away, he turned round, and hit the dog so cleverly with his
+missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill for months after; the
+native having again, with great dexterity, picked up his club. The whole
+of them then disappeared, shouting through the woods to their gins. It
+was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they exclaimed "Yerraman,"
+the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of these animals they
+were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much dread of the
+bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack the white
+strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but another of the
+many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight, without
+treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition. That they did
+not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when detached from the
+body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be set down as a
+favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for whenever they
+visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I was
+absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The old
+man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
+this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
+intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
+joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below that
+junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the natives, and
+learn something of the country to the north-west. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 59°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 62°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+59°.
+
+<p>11TH AUGUST.&mdash;Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp,
+we travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
+main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
+connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
+this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which M.
+Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21° 6' S., and which he
+supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
+three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
+to about 30° E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21° 30' of latitude
+south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at
+all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its bed,
+moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600 feet),
+that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and
+western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following
+conclusions:&mdash;
+
+<p>1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
+westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
+
+<p>2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
+the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
+greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
+3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25° S., the highest spinal
+range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount
+Faraday appeared to be one.
+
+<p>I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head
+of the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
+as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
+marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
+left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
+being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
+good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
+which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
+pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
+occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
+the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
+exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
+plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
+Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves;
+and the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous
+among the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
+STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
+Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
+resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of LABICHEA.[***]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, 35°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 30°.
+
+<p>[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
+integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
+glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
+attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.&mdash;This agrees pretty
+well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
+Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which
+Brown also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new
+species with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by
+Sir T. Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
+
+<p>[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
+glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
+tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
+
+<p>[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
+foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
+reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
+conformibus.]
+
+<p>12TH AUGUST.&mdash;I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed
+themselves on the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads
+homewards, merely saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher
+point. The track already marked out by our party advancing, was so
+much easier for the draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they
+arrived at an early hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and
+travelled with ease three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the
+banks of which the grass was good, and where we therefore now
+encamped. The track of the large feet of the natives showed they had
+followed us this morning, from our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of
+burning wood they had dropped, showed that they had this day met us in
+the scrub as we returned, and had gone out of our way. Even to the
+lagoon, their track along our route was also plainly visible. I was now,
+apparently to them, at their request, leaving the country; and we should
+soon see if their purpose in visiting our camp was an honest one, and
+whether their reasonable and fair demand, was really all they
+contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°; at noon,
+70°; at 4 p.m., 71°; at 9, 65°.
+
+<p>13TH AUGUST.&mdash;We continued back, along the old track, to beyond
+Camp LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in
+order to avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without
+water, and the thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing
+over fine open forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the
+river on our left when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the
+water, and distant only a few miles from the camp two journies back
+from LXVII. I was guided by the bearing of 10° E. of N. We found much
+of the grass on fire, and heard the natives' voices although we saw none.
+We crossed some patches of dry swamp where the clods had been very
+extensively turned up by the natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh
+could not form any conjecture. These clods were so very large and hard
+that we were obliged to throw them aside, and clear a way for the carts to
+pass. The whole resembled ground broken up by the hoe, the naked
+surface having been previously so cracked by drought as to render this
+upturning possible without a hoe. There might be about two acres in the
+patch we crossed, and we perceived at a distance, other portions of the
+ground in a similar state. The river had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked
+channel, with abundance of clear water in it, and firm accessible
+banks. It was still, however, enveloped in a narrow belt of brigalow. The
+shepherd having most imprudently taken the sheep to water when it was
+near sunset, lost his way in the scrub, and could not be found all night.
+Some thought he had fallen into the hands of the aborigines who were
+closely watching us; and it was obvious that had they got possession of
+our sheep, they could have annoyed us very seriously, or indeed,
+destroyed the whole party. The night was very dark, the sky having been
+overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 61°; at 4 p.m., 60; at 9,
+60.
+
+<p>14TH AUGUST.&mdash;Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and
+high barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I
+sent Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
+shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 a.m. He
+had been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
+fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
+been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
+found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
+seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
+encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
+at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
+more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
+drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
+towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
+rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
+from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
+decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
+was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
+other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
+grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
+probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
+
+<p>[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long, linear
+attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the other
+with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large forest
+trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
+
+<p>15TH AUGUST.&mdash;We continued to return along the old track until we
+arrived at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course,
+(7° E. of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to
+cut off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged
+me to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
+midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
+of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
+encamped about 3 p.m., when the rain again came on, the morning
+having been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 60°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+<p>16TH AUGUST.&mdash;The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
+country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
+river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in our
+route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
+filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
+tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-tree
+of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There also
+grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered MELALEUCA,
+resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*]; and, in the
+scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-like shrub
+fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I intended
+to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We thus left
+Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at that of
+LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 65; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9,
+63°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
+utrinque acutissimis, spicâ terminali laxiusculâ rachi pilosâ, calyce
+glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis breviore.]
+
+<p>17TH AUGUST.&mdash;The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen,
+the product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
+the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in heaps,
+or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of this
+singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered in
+any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round clouds
+driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this of Bunten
+stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been formerly
+encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from S. W.,
+we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only on the
+dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and I could
+have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
+horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
+rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just mentioned,
+which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a laxative
+medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks were
+quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most parts
+covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in good
+time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
+ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
+plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
+wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
+evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 p.m., a wind
+from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+55°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 74°; at 9, 68°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>18TH AUGUST.&mdash;The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the
+sky was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved
+off, at our usual hour, 7 a.m. About nine, the western portion of the sky
+seemed loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a
+heavy rain began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of
+clay, which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much
+delay, at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI.,
+and there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without
+intermission until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into
+mud, almost knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded,
+of water in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which
+was still to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river,
+flowing towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°;
+at noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 53°.
+
+<p>19TH AUGUST.&mdash;The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
+brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the earth.
+The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I had
+thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in that
+interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I had
+ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
+gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing range,
+if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the parallel
+of 24° or 25°, the fall of waters and of the whole country was towards the
+south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so decidedly in
+the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we had just
+explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending from a
+mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet above the
+sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those we had
+seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the
+water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable to
+expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to the Gulf
+of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal range
+extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island, and
+there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward
+and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be
+sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result of
+which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the
+north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the
+country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most
+momentous interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and
+provisions almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic
+line before we could return to it), I was determined to carry the
+exploration so far, with whatever means could be spared from the party,
+even had it been necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like
+a native, on opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 45°; at noon, 63°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 47°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+44°.
+
+<p>20TH AUGUST.&mdash;Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
+formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
+and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground
+passed over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every
+hollow, a great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect
+of relief from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes
+past 10 p.m. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke
+every man in it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next,
+a blaze of light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass,
+or revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
+sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which a
+sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was such
+that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the ground,
+and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was very
+clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46°.
+
+<p>21ST AUGUST.&mdash;Following our former route, the track led us through
+hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
+impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful
+for the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had
+hitherto confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country.
+We cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our
+journey was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to
+avoid the former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and
+much bad brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the
+sake of a piece of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most
+pleasant, temperate, and Englishlike, though we were still within the
+tropics. A sweet breeze blew from the S. W., and the degree of
+temperature was between 50° and 60° of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable,
+I believe, of any, to the human frame. There was abundance of water, and
+young grass was daily growing higher; many trees were also beginning
+to blossom. We were retiring, nevertheless, RE INFECTÂ, from these tropical
+regions, and I was impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to
+resume my explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a
+wild carrot, tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it,
+from the effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea
+already mentioned&mdash;violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt
+whatever, that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The
+GEIJERA PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour
+of its long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII, in the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood
+was remarkable from a perfume like roses.
+
+<p>22D AUGUST.&mdash;The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked
+and sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
+miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
+earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp
+LVIII., and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of
+good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 72°; at
+9, 43°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>23D AUGUST.&mdash;The route back to the next camp went too far to the
+westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it.
+We thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
+berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
+to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
+was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
+rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
+rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow.
+We encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a
+spot where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being
+very bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon
+alter the case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
+splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
+seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
+be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
+exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
+was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
+spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 44°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+41°.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-20"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-20.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?)</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>24TH AUGUST.&mdash;The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
+horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
+eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former track; and
+in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above the letters
+N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line of Capricorn. I
+left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret; the weather had
+favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant. The three
+last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on these
+mornings at 25°, 28°, and 29°, respectively. Many interesting trees and
+shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able to
+gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII., along
+our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23° 31' 36" S.; and there again
+set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of tropical
+Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass near our
+route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones. These being
+of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the table, GEOPHAPS
+SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible to bring them up,
+and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood. This bird seemed to
+have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and flew more clumsily
+than others. It had three streaks of white about the head, assimilating it to
+the poultry class; and in building on the ground, it afforded another
+indication of its resemblance to our domestic birds. The flesh is very
+white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the most delicate of all birds.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 46°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+<p>25TH AUGUST.&mdash;The former route to this camp having been very
+crooked from following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I
+set out on the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a
+straight line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open
+ground. The blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees,
+were welcome to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded
+me of the Persian proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the
+eyes." We encamped a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better
+grass than we had left formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted
+of gravel; and amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it
+consisted, I found basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been
+detected by me amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 52°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>26TH AUGUST.&mdash;After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
+shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.;
+which spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary;
+but I could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily
+journies short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges.
+One of the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but
+Yuranigh, by chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The
+thermometer had been as low as 38°; but the birds had been kept in a box
+well covered with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of
+this camp, I found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having
+been first seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37°; at noon, 80°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 44°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+40°.
+
+<p>27TH AUGUST.&mdash;On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
+along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
+right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view of
+the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
+firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
+hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
+I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
+elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
+
+<p>I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
+on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward the
+east, at an angle of about 25° with the horizon; on which side those
+slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they
+presented abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides,
+forming an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on
+the east side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay
+our former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
+eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
+camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was
+found in a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed
+of the main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the
+water before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 41°; at noon, 79; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 48°;&mdash;with wet bulb 39°.
+
+<p>28TH AUGUST.&mdash;The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the
+plain: a fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due
+southward over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until
+we crossed, for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray.
+Just beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
+LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although
+the pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a
+good supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a
+little dog of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it
+known to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 76°;
+at 9, 49°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 41°.
+
+<p>29TH AUGUST.&mdash;Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
+basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
+which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
+thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
+quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
+Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its course,
+with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries apparently larger
+than itself. All these lapsed into the same concatenated line of ponds; at
+one place, spreading amidst brigalow scrub, at another, forming one
+well-defined deep channel. For the formation of ponds, and the retention
+of water, in so dry a climate, we see here something between the
+ordinary character of rivers, and artificial works which man must
+construct, when population may spread into these regions. The fallen
+timber of the brigalow decays very slowly, and is not liable to be burnt,
+like most other dead wood in open forests, because no grass grows
+amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The accumulations of dead logs
+become clogged with river rack and the deposit of floods; to which
+floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the waters into new
+channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds, and completing
+the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams and
+reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water for a
+longer time than any single river channel could retain, however sluggish
+its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual drought, we had
+found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 3½ degrees of
+latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to wheel
+carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very
+favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along
+this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience has
+taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as
+closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus,
+open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond
+which nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go
+forward in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again
+encamped under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting
+portion of white rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it;
+and that the avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the
+mountain with white fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered
+ravine below, a curious new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 56°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+<p>[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissimâ subcanescens,
+foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
+depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.&mdash;Near C. NEMOPHILA
+Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
+plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
+
+<p>30TH AUGUST.&mdash;The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
+sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward,
+and goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings
+before the arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them
+to a spot where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite
+to camp LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the
+plains, than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found
+so difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
+eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
+towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
+direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
+the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
+covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once
+more saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with
+Yuranigh's able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed
+in conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
+range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
+the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
+(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
+DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
+ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil we
+saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
+leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
+MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found
+also a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+59°; at noon, 83°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 62°; with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+<p>[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
+sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
+primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari subgeminis
+calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine glaberrimo.
+&mdash;Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily distinguished,
+besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the veins of the leaves,
+which diverge from the midrib at a very acute instead of a right angle.]
+
+<p>[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis, foliis
+subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello calyce
+paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carinâ multo
+brevioribus.&mdash;The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be
+seen in an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
+
+<p>31ST AUGUST.&mdash;Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
+morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
+gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
+ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
+we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up to
+its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
+drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
+slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
+and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
+gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
+ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
+CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
+a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
+grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
+strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
+been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
+TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly of
+thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
+appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just
+forming its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
+MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about
+four feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet
+high, with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the
+beautiful TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite
+flowers.
+
+<p>[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
+sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
+fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
+integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
+superante.&mdash;Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
+remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
+flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and
+stamens. The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a
+very strong smell of thyme.]
+
+<p>There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
+entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
+eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
+valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
+to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
+grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
+from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs,
+about ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
+
+<p>1ST SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25°. All
+prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
+was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded
+us at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
+clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar
+country, large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing
+above the placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a
+range to us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no
+stranger could have supposed these features to have been only the
+highest parts of such a broken sandstone country as that from which we
+had just emerged. The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they
+were nowhere level but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in
+white streaks high above us, when we first perceived them through the
+scrubs. These downs consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on
+which grew luxuriantly, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the
+surface in general was loose, resembling that of a field after it had lain
+long in fallow. Herbs in great variety were just emerging from the
+recently watered earth, and the splendid morning did ample justice to the
+vernal scene. The charm of a beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and
+the songs of many birds sounded like the orchestral music before the
+commencement of any theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a
+place, was quite incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost
+boundless extent of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that
+of China, yet still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve,
+provided by nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and
+industry might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
+population.
+
+<p>These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
+contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
+of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
+component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
+beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
+above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
+and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
+wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire.
+The ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a
+salsolaceous soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no
+geologist has yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have
+produced that rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly
+grew; or these wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red
+sandstone formation. One has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;"
+but this phrase admits of no easy application to such cases as
+these. Fragments of a ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles,
+apparently identical with those in the basin of the Darling, in some places
+accompany these angular fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a
+new ERIOSTEMON allied to E. BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy
+leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA
+RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS
+SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical on trees. We encamped on the
+margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX, and about a mile distant from
+it, our draught oxen being very weak and leg-weary. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 25°; at noon, 67°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 44°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
+obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus unifloris
+tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
+
+<p>[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
+subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
+involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
+
+<p>2D SEPTEMBER.&mdash;We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly
+mentioned. We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then
+made, had been much damaged by a flood. The little river was still
+running, and it was cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its
+sources, beyond which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in
+repairing our bridge, so that all things were got across safely. We
+ascended the undulating downs along our old track, and where many
+curious specimens of trees in flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I
+observed that no entire sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing
+to have been compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one.
+Yuranigh brought me one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris),
+which so far confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the
+coniferous character of Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance
+of other specimens, I am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of
+that description. I left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that
+the direct route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was
+rather at a loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the
+name of Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
+Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
+subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
+therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
+About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which
+had been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
+exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is to
+be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or sources
+are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and usually bare
+of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 78°;
+at 9, 47°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+<p>3D SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest
+hour." The thermometer 31° at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of
+the magpie or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and
+the rich browns and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with
+its dense grey shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in
+the same state as when we left it. No flood had come down the channel
+of that river. The tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the
+old route, and bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is
+remarkable that in no case had they injured or defaced the letters and
+numerals marked on trees at the various camps, nor disturbed our
+temporary bridges. We cut our way through a scrub of brigalow, thus
+passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and XLVI., encamping at a short
+distance from the latter of these places. Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at
+noon, 74°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 52°; with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>4TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the
+lake, had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a
+green crop was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our
+cattle. Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this
+day, proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to
+be left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
+river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before they
+had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
+the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on
+seeing us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
+judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
+with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
+had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
+curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
+instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian natives
+towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some of the
+uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
+behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
+themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
+stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
+them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
+trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
+make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
+still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
+crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on
+seeing us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions
+before us, and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great
+blaze there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody
+range beyond Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued
+until evening; thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous
+sunset, which poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky
+pinnacles, as I sat drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles
+northward of XLV. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 67°; at 4
+p.m., 65°; at 9, 39°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 32°.
+
+<p>5TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a
+more elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy
+clouds of cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the
+last effort of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be
+driven much farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where
+this could be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged
+to cross. We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which
+well deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke,
+were seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
+yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
+position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
+which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight,
+and the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
+encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
+excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
+spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
+formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the
+purple-flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the
+pink-flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
+forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
+handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here
+first appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
+small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
+LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the foot
+of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with yellow
+black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree fifteen
+or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of ALL.
+CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high, proved
+to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A. CUNNINGHAMII,
+but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of flowers, and
+everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***] Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 40°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+31°.
+
+<p>[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis, foliolis
+glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus, pedunculis
+solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis triangularibus
+glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
+
+<p>[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
+aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
+acutis persistentibus.]
+
+<p>[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
+elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
+subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus, spicis
+elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo breviore,
+ovario villoso.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-21"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-21.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The River Salvator, 5th Sept.</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter07"></a>
+<h4>Chapter VII.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.&mdash;DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
+STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.&mdash;ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.&mdash;PASSAGE
+TO THE WESTWARD.&mdash;NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.&mdash;THE RIVER NIVE.&mdash;ITS
+COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.&mdash;CROSS A LOW RANGE.&mdash;PLAINS OF THE VICTORIA
+DISCOVERED.&mdash;EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.&mdash;RIVER SPREADS INTO VARIOUS
+CHANNELS.&mdash;TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.&mdash;THE RIVER
+ALICE.&mdash;NATIVE CAMP.&mdash;A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.&mdash;LOWEST POINT OF
+THE RIVER REACHED.&mdash;RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.&mdash;TRIBUTARIES FROM THE
+SOUTH.&mdash;GOWEN RANGE.&mdash;ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.&mdash;PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.&mdash;ASCEND
+WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.&mdash;RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE PYRAMIDS.&mdash;NEW
+PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.</blockquote>
+
+<p>6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;It being necessary to rest and refresh the
+horses for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all
+being leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during
+these two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of
+scenery within a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been
+assiduously burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This
+rendered the spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young
+grass was highly relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass
+remained to be set fire to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part
+of the natives, is usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 40°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 31°.
+
+<p>8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;I employed my time these two days in
+writing a despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed
+account of my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that
+in the event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now
+to accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to
+leave it at this depôt camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us,
+and a fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our
+intended ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky
+continued overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in
+sufficient quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to
+produce dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the
+8th, 53°; at noon, 55°; at 4 p.m., 57°; at 9, 50°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 46°;
+and at sunrise of the 9th, 39°; at noon, 77°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, 52°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 45°.
+
+<p>10TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
+Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant,
+false horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley,
+along our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W.,
+following up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This
+valley led very straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three
+volcanic cones, which I had already intersected from various points. The
+other two I had named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three
+hills formed an obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to
+the north-west, and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land
+might be found to form an angle somewhat corresponding with the
+directions of the two shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to
+the westward of such an angle in the range, I might find what had been
+so long the object of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria. We reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my
+former observations as far as could be ascertained by the mode of
+measurement I employed then; which was by counting my horse's paces.
+On ascending the mountain on foot, I found a deep chasm still between
+me and the western summit, which was not only the highest, but the only
+part clear of bushes. A thick and very thorny scrub had already so
+impeded my ascent, that the best portion of the afternoon was gone,
+before I could return to the horses; and I resolved, therefore, to continue
+my ride, and to defer the ascent and observation of angles from the
+summit, until my return from the unknown western country, which we
+were about to explore; the search for water that night being an object of
+too much importance to be longer deferred. We, accordingly, passed on
+by the southward and westward of the mountain, following a watercourse,
+which led first N. W., then north, and next E. of N.; to where it at
+length joined one from the west, up which I turned, and continued the
+search for water until darkness obliged us to halt. During that search for
+water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so concealed and covered
+with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared from those following;
+and yet, strange to say, without either of us being in the least hurt. We
+encamped where there was, at least, good grass; but&mdash;no water.
+
+<p>11TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept,
+we found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well
+known to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after
+long custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we
+had breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
+supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
+some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
+We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
+perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
+rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
+feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were
+all visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The
+connections extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at
+the head of the Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these
+I was careful to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was
+higher than it, and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at
+its lowest part, which bore 26° W. of S., was our next object. We found
+the range covered with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs.
+On the crest, the rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade
+thermometer stood, at noon, at 30° 5' equal to 87°, of Fahrenheit; the
+height above the sea we made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we
+encountered a scrub of matted vines, which hung down like ropes, and
+pulled some of us off our horses, when it happened that any of these
+ropes were not observed in time in riding through the thicket. A very
+dense forest of young Callitris trees next impeded us, and were more
+formidable than even the vines. The day was passed in forcing our way
+through these various scrubs, the ground declining by a gentle slope
+only. We next found firmer soil underfoot, that where the Callitris scrub
+grew having been sandy, and we saw at length, with a feeling of relief,
+that only brigalow scrub was before us; we ascended gravelly hills, came
+upon a dry water-course, and then on a chain of ponds. Near one of these
+ponds, sate an old woman, beside a fire, of course, although the weather
+was very warm; and a large net, used for taking emus, hung on a
+brigalow bush close by. The men were absent, looking for food, as we
+partly conjectured, for little could Yuranigh make out of what she said,
+besides the names of some rivers, to which I could point with the hand. I
+was surprised to find that here, the name for water was "Narran," the
+name for it in the district of the Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the
+word for water amongst the tribes of the Darling is Kalli. That the
+"Narran" river and swamp are named from this language of tribes now
+dwelling much further northward, seems obvious; and, as the natives on
+the Darling know little of the "Narran" or its swamp, it may be inferred
+that there the migration of native tribes has been progressive from south
+to north; the highest known land in Australia being also to the southward
+of the Darling. The chain of ponds, according to the old woman, was
+named "Cùnno," and ran into the "Warreg" which, as she pointed, was
+evidently the name of the river we had formerly traced downwards from
+near Mount P. P. King. I left the "Cùnno," and plunged into the brigalow
+to the northward, thus crossing a slightly elevated range, where we found
+a little water-course falling N.N.W. By following this downwards, we
+found water in it, as twilight grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for
+the night, in latitude 25° S.
+
+<p>[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
+
+<p>12TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 7 a.m. the thermometer was 59°; our height
+then above the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet.
+Continuing to follow down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a
+chain of ponds running N.E., and these we traced in the contrary
+direction, or upwards, as far as seemed desirable. We struck off from that
+water-course, first to the N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep
+low ridge of clay ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We
+crossed that low ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half
+beyond, met another acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also
+ascended, and found upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree
+having hard spiky dry branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to
+receive the charge of ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which
+formidable array we nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived
+at the head of a rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we
+attempted in vain to pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga,"
+until, seeing a flat on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the
+water-course again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction,
+and contained some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river,
+whose banks were thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course
+of this river was W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N.,
+and at the junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we
+watered our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills,
+three quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24° 52'
+50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge
+we crossed, was 84°; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3
+p.m., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89°; the
+height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
+
+<p>13TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 7 a.m. the thermometer stood at 38°; the height
+above the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river
+would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
+conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
+commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name;
+and, to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle.
+Pursuing the united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy
+plains. The air was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up,
+especially where the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were
+MORGANIA GLABRA; EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM
+with the aspect of a TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a
+new scabrous HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning
+by the natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry
+warm weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as
+an emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly
+imprinted with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the
+natives to attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the
+aversion of the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle:
+people who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they
+have thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted
+with their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
+these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old men
+and women!
+
+<p>[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
+margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
+patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida, foliis
+oblongis planis longè ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis pentameris,
+calycibus patentim hispidis.]
+
+<p>[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris, foliis
+alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis, floribus
+distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis, fructu
+subgloboso.]
+
+<p>The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
+it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
+After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
+bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were
+obliged to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and
+laborious day. Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite
+puzzled Yuranigh, for we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and
+tracts they had set fire to, where trees still lay smoking.
+
+<p>14TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The temperature at 7 this morning was 72° of
+Fahrenheit; the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently
+determined by Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid
+down my survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have
+turned towards the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct
+northerly course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank,
+whence I had seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a
+brigalow range. After a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand
+curve in the river's course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found
+water near the spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined,
+and near which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank
+covered with brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding
+traces of a recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at
+less than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL&mdash;I mean not
+crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and
+refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs, a
+beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal
+spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a
+wash and breakfast&mdash;the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one
+sentiment of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water.
+Like "a giant refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the
+north-west, and passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very
+gradually, during a ride of three miles, to where I at length could
+discover that the fall was in the other direction. At this point, I observed
+the barometer, which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet.
+Fahrenheit's thermometer stood then (5 p.m.) at 86°. The dry channel of
+a water-course had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had
+also guided us to the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the
+feet of three men in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives
+whose track Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were
+now going in the same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the
+smell of their burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning
+embers which had dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was
+flat, and on it the rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky
+gap (in a ridge) was still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set,
+and not a blade of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what
+was all this to the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With
+eager steps we followed a slight channel downwards; found that it
+descended more rapidly than the one by which we had ascended; that it
+also increased, and we were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with
+young grass, while yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected
+from several broad ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot,
+so opportunely and unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy
+flat by the margin of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group
+of bushes for shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with
+very heavy clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain.
+
+<p>15TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards
+the gap, and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld
+downs and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision,
+bounded on the S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by
+higher ranges; the whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in
+which direction a line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to
+the remotest verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the
+realization of my long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N.
+W. in the heart of an open country extending also in that direction.
+Ulloa's delight at the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed
+mine on this occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was
+impressed at the moment have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being
+allowed to make such a discovery. From that rock, the scene was so
+extensive as to leave no room for doubt as to the course of the river,
+which, thus and there revealed to me alone, seemed like a reward direct
+from Heaven for perseverance, and as a compensation for the many
+sacrifices I had made, in order to solve the question as to the interior
+rivers of Tropical Australia. To an European, the prospect of an open
+country has a double charm in regions for the most part covered with
+primaeval forests, calling up pleasing reminiscences of the past, brighter
+prospects for the future&mdash;inspiring a sense of freedom, especially when
+viewed from the back of a good horse:&mdash;
+
+<p>"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede,
+A sword of metal keene&mdash;
+All else to noble minds is drosse,
+All else on earth is meane!"   &mdash;OLD SONG.
+
+<p>I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the
+gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse,
+which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open
+country. The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless
+downs appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on
+emerging from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much
+open plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke
+far in the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were
+inhabitants. The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly
+PANICUM LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it,
+SALSOLOE, and the ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed
+the river downwards, the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon
+as if interminable. This river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no
+sand in its bed, which consisted of firm clay, and contained deep
+hollows, and the beds of long reaches, then, however, all dry, while
+abundance of large UNIO shells lay upon the banks, and proved that the
+drought was not of common occurrence. The general course of the river I
+found to be about W.N.W. true. We continued to follow it through its
+windings all day, which I certainly should not have done, but for the sake
+of water, as our progress downwards was thus much retarded. Towards
+evening, Corporal Graham discovered water in a small tributary coming
+from the S.E., while Yuranigh found some also in the main channel,
+where that tributary fell into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this
+was called, and turned our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees
+in grass half dry, half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field
+to-morrow." The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was
+intense; but during the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under
+heaven's canopy and protection.
+
+<p>16TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly
+formed clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to
+trace, as if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine
+regions of earth. At 7 a.m. the temperature was 63°; and (from
+observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to
+be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and
+plains covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right.
+Beyond it, we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in
+proportion as we descended with the river. Some were much broken, and
+appeared to present precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended
+westward from between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range
+seemed to be an offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the
+river, below the supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its
+character altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was,
+however, scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 p.m., at the
+only hole we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA
+PENDULA formed a belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the
+open plains, and many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the
+rose cockatoo and crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and
+SOLANUM amongst the latter. At length, we saw before us, to the
+westward, bold precipitous hills, extending also to the southward of west.
+A thunder storm came over us, and night advancing, we halted without
+seeing more, for that day, of the interesting country before us, and having
+only water enough for our own use, the product of the shower. No pond
+was found for the horses, although we had searched for one, many miles
+in the bed of the river. Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks
+bore testimony that water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it
+did through the finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen.
+
+<p>17TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The temperature at seven this morning was 57°;
+our height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us
+from "repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of
+tomorrow's fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had
+found us unable either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to
+Providence, however, we went forward, and found a pond in the river
+bed, not distant more than two miles from where we had slept. In making
+a cut next through a brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the
+river, in a nearly westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and
+turned again into a brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good
+many miles, N.W., through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain
+of dead brigalow; and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at
+length, upon open downs extending far to the northward. I continued to
+ride in that direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a
+range of flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most
+westerly portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us
+yesterday. They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening
+country was partly low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we
+were upon. But where was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of
+one appeared nearest to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some
+well-formed hollows on that side the downs. Towards that point I
+therefore shaped my course, and there found the river&mdash;no longer a
+chain of dry ponds in brigalow scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra
+trees, with open grassy banks, and containing long reaches full of water.
+White cockatoos shrieked above us; ducks floated, or flew about, and
+columns of smoke began to ascend from the woods before us. This was
+now, indeed, a river, and I lost no time in following it downwards. The
+direction was west; then north-west, tolerably straight. Water was
+abundant in its bed; the breadth was considerable, and the channel was
+well-marked by bold lofty banks. I remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan
+plains, growing here, on sand-islands of this river. The grass surpassed
+any I had ever seen in the colony in quality and abundance. The slow
+flying pelican appeared over our heads, and we came to a long broad
+reach covered with ducks, where the channel had all the appearance of a
+river of the first magnitude. The old mussle shells (UNIO) lay in heaps,
+like cart-loads, all along the banks, but still we saw none of the natives.
+Flames, however, arose from the woods beyond the opposite bank, at
+once in many directions, as if by magic, as we advanced. At 3 p.m.
+Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at 90°. Towards evening, we
+saw part of the bed dry, and found it continuously so, as night came on.
+The sun had set, while I still anxiously explored the dry recesses of the
+channel in search of water, without much hopes of success, when a wild
+yell arose from the woods back from the channel, which assured us that
+water was near. Towards that quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon
+found a fine pond in a small ana-branch, upon which we immediately
+halted, and took up our abode there for the night. It may seem strange
+that so small a number could act thus unmolested by the native tribes, but
+our safety consisted chiefly in the rapidity of our movements, and their
+terror of strangers wholly unknown, perhaps unheard of, arriving on the
+backs of huge animals, or centaurs whose tramp they had only heard at
+nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"</p>
+
+<blockquote>&mdash;&mdash;"rustling through the boortrees comin'<br>
+   Wi' eerie sought!"</blockquote>
+
+<p>our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or
+annoyance being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we
+hoped to sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally
+unexpected by natives. Latitude, 24° 34' 30" S.
+
+<p>18TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 7 a.m. the temperature of the air was 72°; the
+height of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank
+for some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing
+clear downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the
+highest clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the
+ranges intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the
+northward of the river, whose general direction to the point already fixed
+had been 22° W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as far as I
+could judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the southward of
+the river also turned off, extending nearly to the southward. These two
+limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the river so as to leave it
+ample room to turn and wind on either side, amidst its accompanying
+woods, through grassy downs of great extent, obliged me to explore its
+course with closer attention. From another clear hill on these downs, to
+which I next proceeded, I thought I perceived the line of another river
+coming from ranges in the N.E., and expecting it would join that whose
+course we had thus far explored, I proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction
+over open downs towards the line of trees. I found therein a fine pond of
+water, the soil of the downs consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM
+and various SALSOLOE appeared in some parts. My horses being rather
+jaded, I halted rather early here, and laid down my journey, protracting
+also the angles I had observed of the points of distant ranges. Latitude,
+24° 27' 27" S. I found by the barometer that we were already much lower
+than the rivers Salvator and Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the
+Belyando; while we were still remote from the channel we were
+pursuing.
+
+<p>19TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;The thermometer at 7 a.m. stood at 57°. The
+height of these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has
+said, that a situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where
+a man should hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a
+sublime position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted
+to traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to
+witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a
+man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being,
+and of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable
+position he can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few
+wants supplied almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he
+falls in with water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence
+alone; and this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible,
+in journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man
+seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and
+disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely
+inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may
+venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a
+brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a
+perfectly level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward
+of west, to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible.
+Bushes of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them,
+we crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a
+concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue
+clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation;
+and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on
+which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four
+separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both
+amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I
+might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill
+was visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only
+downs and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant
+view, which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of
+our river appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we
+found here. In that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river,
+where, in a general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels.
+The grass was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate
+channels seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine
+clear downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade
+thermometer, 37°, or 99° of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the
+shade of a small clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the
+afternoon, three emus that had been feeding on the downs came
+inquisitively forward; curiosity, apparently inspiring them with more
+courage than even the human inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds,
+our bacon had become so impalatable that a change of diet was very
+desirable, and Graham, therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the
+quadruped inspiring more confidence in the bird. It was curious to
+witness the first meeting of the large indigenous bird and large exotic
+quadruped&mdash;such strange objects to each other! on the wide plains
+where either of them could</p>
+
+<blockquote>&mdash;&mdash;"overtake the south wind."</blockquote>
+
+<p>One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that
+evening being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not
+slow in seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed.
+There my men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who,
+although unable to eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating
+emu flesh, although he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM,
+for the use of the white men. The channel of the river was still divided
+here, amongst brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight.
+Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 86°. Height above the sea, 758 feet.
+
+<p>20TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 7 a.m. the thermometer was 78°. Water
+appearing to be more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its
+general course in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay
+to the eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as
+belonging to another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first
+encountered a great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a
+rosewood scrub, redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we
+found the deep well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward.
+The bottom was rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river
+also spread into branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon
+open downs. Next we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with
+yarra trees, and coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles
+further on, we crossed another coming from N.E., on which, finding a
+good lagoon, I encamped early, that the men might have time to cook for
+themselves some of the emu, and that the horses might also have some
+sufficient rest. Latitude, 24° 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 p.m., 86°.
+Height above the sea, 724 feet.
+
+<p>21ST SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer at 6 a.m., 63°. I found that the
+various tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater
+tendency westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward
+of where we had passed the night. Its character was the same&mdash;a
+concatenation of ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled
+with water, apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of
+the adjacent country. The course next turned considerably to the
+southward of west, while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about
+westward. I found an open plain between these, across which I travelled;
+until, again meeting the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed
+to turn more to the northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours
+under the shade of some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper,
+and found we were making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a
+very open country. We were no longer in doubt about finding water,
+although in the heart of Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon.
+On proceeding, we passed some large huts near the river, which were
+of a more substantial construction, and also on a better plan than those
+usually set up by the aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof
+had first been erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and,
+thereupon thin square portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond
+of water being near, we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the
+night. At 5 p.m. the thermometer was at 82°. Height above the sea, 707
+feet.
+
+<p>22D SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 58°. This was no sandybedded
+river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of
+firm clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much
+novelty, that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was
+nevertheless tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and
+carry them amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was
+curious. One plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were
+others resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with
+white turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS.
+Among the grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that
+formerly seen on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA
+PECTINATA, gathered in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst
+the grasses a PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly
+collected in the tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very
+remarkable new species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow
+panicle, and little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river
+again formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the
+wide open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we
+had indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely
+interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our
+journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had
+left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over
+the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with
+their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And so
+we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived at
+the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose impetuous
+floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged with drift
+matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of 400 yards.
+The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal water lay in
+ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned with
+brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand
+the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down
+there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad a
+water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just
+below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort of
+a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the
+direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel.
+About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the
+broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican
+and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in
+such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them, as
+to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed
+diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces
+had, at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that,
+although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure
+alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes
+rose. Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole
+together forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two
+kinds of grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass,
+possessing the remarkable property of shooting up green from the old
+stalk.
+
+<p>[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium
+plumosis, paniculâ pilosâ angustâ interruptâ ramulis inferioribus demum
+refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis
+villosis, foliis......]
+
+<p>The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their
+extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito.
+Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus
+occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found
+with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine
+gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine
+flavoured.
+
+<p>I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked
+navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles,
+beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside
+one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would
+have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on a
+verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El
+Dorado of Australia. At 2 p.m. thermometer 88°. Height above the sea
+712 feet.
+
+<p>23D SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 7 a.m. thermometer 59°. Latitude 24° 2' S. New
+flowers perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their
+forms and structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted I
+could not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our
+provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had
+been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our
+little stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any
+privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed
+half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this
+interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack
+horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we
+threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it in
+portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The
+course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to
+stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the
+river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees
+on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river,
+but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We
+next traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay
+with gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen
+nowhere else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a
+river flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore
+impetuous floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I
+called it the Alice.
+
+<p>As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the
+westward or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely
+variegated with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to
+the horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of
+this kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and
+water in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at
+3 p.m., 90° in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by
+pigeons, and a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous
+that five were killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite,
+the wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no
+means of preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height
+above the sea here, 826 feet.
+
+<p>[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.]
+
+<p>24TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;I continued to seek the river across extensive
+downs, in many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained,
+apparently as if the decay of that species of scrub gave place to open
+ground. I turned now to the S.W., and became anxious to see the river
+again. At length we came upon a creek, which I followed down, first to
+the S.W. and next southerly, until it was time to alight, when we
+established our bivouac by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24° 3' 30"
+S. Thermometer, at 3 p.m. 98°. Height above the sea, 688 feet.
+
+<p>25TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 6 a.m. the thermometer stood at 73°. We ought
+to have been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on
+for our stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without
+tracing it to the furthest accesible point. We still continued, therefore, to
+follow the water-course which had brought us thus far, expecting at
+every turn to find its junction with the river, whose course had obviously
+turned more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a larger
+tributary from the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took a more
+westerly direction than the minor channel which brought us to it. We
+thus came upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very
+numerous tribe of natives, who appeared to have been there very
+recently, as some of the fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and
+large permanent huts, were seen beyond that encampment; and it was
+plain that we had entered the home of a numerous tribe. I should have
+gladly avoided them at that time, had not a sight of the river been
+indispensable, and the course of the creek we were upon, the only certain
+guide to it. Level plains extended along its banks, and I had been
+disappointed by the appearance of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the
+banks of large lagoons. On approaching one of these, loud shrieks of
+many women and children, and the angry voices of men, apprised me
+that we had, at length, overtaken the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come
+upon them by surprise. "AYA MINYÀ!" was vociferated repeatedly, and
+was understood to mean, "What do you want!" (What seek ye in the land
+of Macgregor!) I steadily adhered to my new plan of tactics towards the
+aborigines, and took not the slightest notice of them, but steadily rode
+forward, according to my compass bearing. On looking back for my men,
+I saw one beckoning me to return. He had observed two natives, with
+spears and clubs, hide themselves behind a bush in the direction in which
+I was advancing. On my halting, they stole away, and, when a little
+further on, I perceived an old white-haired woman before me, on seeing
+whom I turned slightly to one side, that we might not frighten her or
+provoke the tribe. The whole party seemed to have been amusing
+themselves in the water during the noon-day heat, which was excessive;
+and the cool shades around the lagoon looked most luxuriant. Our
+position, on the contrary, was anything but enviable. With jaded horses
+scarcely able to lift a leg, amongst so many natives, whose language was
+incomprehensible, even to Yuranigh. I asked him whether we might not
+come to a parley with them, and see if they could understand him. His
+answer was brief; and, without turning even his head once to look at
+them:&mdash;"You go on!" which advice, quite according with my own
+notions, founded on experience, I willingly went on. Even there, in the
+heart of the interior, on a river utterly unheard of by white men, an iron
+tomahawk glittered on high in the hand of a chief, having a very long
+handle to it. The anxious care of the females to carry off their children
+seemed the most agreeable feature in the scene, and they had a mode of
+carrying them on the haunch, which was different from anything I had
+seen. Some had been digging in the mud for worms, others searching for
+freshwater muscles; and if the whole could have been witnessed
+unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst the aborigines had
+been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed a strange attitude,
+which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the right knee bent, the
+left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but grasping clubs; the left arm
+raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya, aya, minyà!" they continually
+shouted; and well might they ask what we wanted! Hoping they would
+believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two old pack-horses in
+counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire to let them know us
+more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at length, to hear their "Aya
+minyàs" grow fainter, and that we were leaving them behind. About five
+miles further south, the perfume from the liliaceous banks of the river
+was the first indication of its vicinity. We found it full 400 yards broad,
+presenting its usual characteristics,&mdash;several separate channels and
+ponds of water; there, according to the barometer, the height above the
+sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at 3 p.m., in the shade, 99° of
+Fahrenheit. We watered our horses, crossed, and plunged into the
+brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a march upon the noisy tribe;
+who, by that time, probably were sending to call in their hunting parties,
+that they might follow our track. Their mode of killing a kangaroo may
+best exemplify their tactics towards strangers; whose path in the same
+manner could be followed by day, and sat down beside at night, to be
+again tracked in the morning, until the object of pursuit could be
+overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew on a rising ground of
+sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I saw the course of the
+river running nearly northward. Here, then, I turned towards the east to
+travel home by ascending the left bank, with the intention to cut off the
+great sweep which the river described, as we had found on tracing it
+down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any tributaries it might
+receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one containing a fine lagoon,
+and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most firmly objected to our
+sitting down close by the water, saying we might there be too easily
+speared by the wild natives who were then, probably, on our track; but he
+did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain adjacent, one man
+keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's ponds. Latitude, 24°
+19' 2" S.
+
+<p>26TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 6 a.m. the thermometer stood at 61°. My horse
+was quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's
+journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed
+through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was
+grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of
+mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,&mdash;the fragments
+being much of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting,
+for the most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six
+miles, we saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that
+the left bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to
+the northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly
+water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped;
+resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most
+thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24° 12' 37" S.
+Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 92°.
+
+<p>27TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 68°. On laying down my
+work on paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way
+homewards, our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from
+us, and distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E.
+passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it
+should be required.
+
+<p>It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants,
+the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the
+natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a
+few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire,
+each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the head
+reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and
+thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their
+occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no
+respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for
+washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in
+mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint
+that clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that
+would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would
+probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that
+sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do
+with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children
+of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but that
+the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the savages
+of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men on
+their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the
+naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean
+tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of
+similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only
+impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or
+however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What,
+then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to
+inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated man
+despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow.
+Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition of
+knowledge&mdash;the gratification of mind&mdash;the raptures of the poet, or the
+delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst
+civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that
+the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or gold
+as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in lofty
+minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is
+worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be
+said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my
+reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while protected
+from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how long these
+dreams under it would continue undisturbed.
+
+<p>"The mind is its own place, and in itself
+Can make a heaven of hell: a hell of heaven!"
+
+<p>Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 90°.
+
+<p>28TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 63°. The horses were
+much refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our
+journey in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs,
+meeting no impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches
+of a considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this
+day, besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according
+to its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and
+encamped on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had
+previously crossed.
+
+<p>This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range
+to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and so
+determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature,
+Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold
+summit forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained
+data sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of
+the river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges.
+The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like
+sandstone. At 6 p.m., the temperature was 81°.
+
+<p>29TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;At 6 a.m., the thermometer was 59°. Re-crossing
+the river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th
+September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We
+crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus
+identifying it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered
+with grass, and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange
+flowers, which grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the
+spot I sought, and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the
+sun having reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had
+been boiled before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon,
+in such warm weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have
+then been very good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had
+out-manoeuvred the natives, the weather had been so hot that,
+nevertheless, we could not "save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 p.m.,
+83°.
+
+<p>30TH SEPTEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 7 a.m., 67°. I found, by my map,
+that I might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of
+18th September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the
+downs. We accordingly set out on the bearing of 5½° S. of E., and hit
+the spot exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so as to
+afford some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly,
+passed through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice
+crossed a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The
+water-course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of
+fine firm clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the
+waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of
+the country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river
+we had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from
+others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be
+rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to
+carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run.
+
+<p>1ST OCTOBER.&mdash;Our track back across the downs, brought again into
+view the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its
+salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head
+of the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above
+the trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the
+salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first
+advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river
+this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded with
+the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a
+distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we
+at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes
+came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the
+horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our
+former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head,
+so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained the
+bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA.
+
+<p>But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives
+could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more
+willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve
+a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into
+tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,&mdash;a river
+leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE SPICES
+GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from
+Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's
+providence, in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus
+affording access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon
+peopled by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal,
+and loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious
+sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the
+plants along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which
+lay about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen
+elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a
+half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA,
+resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr. Bentham.[*]
+We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to make the
+tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset; the moon
+was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for water, until we
+again fell in with our former track, near the place where we had watered
+our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On hastening to the
+pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days had dried it up,
+and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most unpleasant
+privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost vertical sun. The
+river must receive a great addition below this branch from the
+Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we had this
+day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on our left, or
+to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up the
+waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so effectually,
+that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus becoming open
+downs.
+
+<p>[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis
+linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis enervibus, glandulâ
+prope basin immersâ, pedunculis glaberrimis gracilibus racemosis
+capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.]
+
+<p>2D OCTOBER.&mdash;At 6 a.m. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59°.
+The height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I
+sent Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to
+contain water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods,
+welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the spot,
+where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our wants.
+For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all that was
+required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less assiduously,
+although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it under such
+circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost
+indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former
+bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour.
+Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts
+were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any
+of them.
+
+<p>3D OCTOBER.&mdash;Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were
+again seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus
+afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their
+hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham
+succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped.
+He then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards
+us, when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark
+and number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of
+future reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again,
+into this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this
+bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight
+course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route
+along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us
+back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the figures
+72.
+
+<p>4TH OCTOBER.&mdash;We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the
+temperature, at 9 a.m., was 79°,) and alighted by the pond at the
+junction of the Nivelle and Nive; near where we had passed the night of
+the 12th September. This day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so
+characteristic of sandy soils, but of which we had not observed a single
+specimen in the extensive country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree.
+
+<p>5TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass
+before me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost
+the first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted,
+and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the
+same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a
+position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head
+erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The
+deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the
+fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and
+did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted
+thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him,
+and was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a
+charge of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be
+despatched. This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly,
+about six feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before
+known any Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly
+brought the attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former
+circuitous route when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our
+former bivouac at an early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds,
+formerly full of good water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I
+proceeded to cross the scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction
+towards Mount Pluto. But some magnetic influence so deranged my
+compass, that, on reaching the crest of the range, I found that mountain
+bore nearly east instead of N. E. N. I saw three of my fixed points,
+however, by which, with my pocket sextant, I could ascertain our true
+position, which proved to be very wide of my intended course. It was,
+like many other accidental frustrations of my plans in this journey, an
+aberration that did us good, for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub
+formerly passed through, and also a rocky part of the range. We next
+descended into a valley in which, after following down a dry watercourse
+two miles, we found a fine pond of water, exactly as the sun was
+setting. This day I had shot a curious bird, somewhat resembling a small
+turkey, in a tree. The feathers were black; the head was bare and red.
+This fowl was apparently of the galinaceous tribe. The flesh was
+delicious, and afforded a most timely dinner to the party. A numerous
+body of natives had followed our former track across the rocky ranges
+we traversed this day, as appeared by their foot-marks, and Yuranigh
+also discovered, in the same manner, that three natives had this morning
+preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw none of these denizens of
+the woods.
+
+<p>6TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 48°. Height above the sea,
+696 feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the
+Pyramids; but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount
+Pluto, from which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked
+this bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively
+marked, 71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series
+from LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando.
+
+<p>The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and
+plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and
+myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced
+at the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I
+found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly
+passed the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses,
+the grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass
+had been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest
+sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above
+the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the
+mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much
+Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although well
+covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W.
+side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct
+the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides.
+The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I
+passed an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount
+Owen and Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the
+East, and some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just
+visible across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with
+Mount Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In
+the S. W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate
+westward, in abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as
+far as known), the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters.
+What that country is, was a most interesting point, which I was very
+reluctant to leave still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the
+westward of this trio, which thus seem to mark the place where the
+upheaving forces have most affected the interior structure of Australia.
+The temperature on Mount Pluto, at noon, was 90°; and the elevation
+above the sea, 2420 feet.
+
+<p>On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck
+into the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although
+it was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward
+of Mount Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke
+in the direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the
+party left there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud
+cheers. All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in
+high condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some
+curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so
+as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked
+green and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most
+refreshing home both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we
+had almost constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected
+specimens of XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple
+INDIGOFERA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of
+Miquel, a hairy shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS;
+GOODENIA PULCHELLA Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found
+on the rocky ground near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the
+summits of the pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills,
+were gathered, AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though,
+almost leafless herb, with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles
+below the camp a species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp.,
+was found; and among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to,
+but probably distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn.
+
+<p>The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed
+a shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having
+much resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA
+CUNNINGHAMII grew about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was
+seen on the sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there
+also grew the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small
+shrub six feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON
+CUSPIDATUS, also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only
+two feet high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet
+high in similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still
+abundant on the sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the
+POMAX HIRTA, a plant six inches high.
+
+<p>[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis impunctatis
+brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus leviter
+revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis trifloris folio
+brevioribus.&mdash;Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE. Detected by Fraser
+on Mount Lindsay.]
+
+<p>
+At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA
+formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a
+small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer
+specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA
+ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the
+SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a
+shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy
+leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its
+silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of
+twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the beautiful
+LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer state, near
+Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered ravines
+amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with its
+four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high.
+On the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved,
+glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green
+flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in flower).
+The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species of
+ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage,
+relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of
+Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that
+genus, according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which
+proved to be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the
+precipices[*]; a new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new
+RUTIDOSIS, a tall herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved
+GREVILLEA, with yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with
+inconspicuous flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of
+Comesperm, about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or
+downy stems; it was allied to C. RETUSA.[******]
+
+<p>[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis
+subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis falcatoellipticis v.
+oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis minute 1-2-
+glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo longioribus, capitulis
+multifloris tomentosis.&mdash;Near A. CALEYI and A. VESTITA. Phyllodia from
+an inch and a half to two inches long, half an inch broad, resembling
+much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.]
+
+<p>[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis
+cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis
+axillaribus terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem
+foliosam magis minusve congestis.]
+
+<p>[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis
+remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis
+longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.&mdash;A widely
+distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus (R.
+HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.]
+
+<p>[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis, foliis
+rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis glabris
+marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis perianthiisque
+sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis, stylis glabris,
+folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.]
+
+<p>[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis
+apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque
+glandulosis.&mdash;In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below.
+The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved
+outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA.
+W. I. H.]
+
+<p>[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus pubescentibus
+glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis terminalibus,
+bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.]
+
+<p>On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants
+which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from
+three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a
+small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet
+high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES, Desf.[***]; a
+downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner truncated
+leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the mountain,
+grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but with the stature
+of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high.[*]
+
+<p>[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis sphacelatoapiculatis
+molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe attenuatis
+uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus bracteisque
+sericeis.]
+
+<p>[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis puberula,
+foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-oblongis
+spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis pluriesve
+longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.]
+
+<p>[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus masculis
+triandris.]
+
+<p>[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa,
+foliis brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis
+tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.]
+
+<p>[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis erectosubincurvis
+longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti
+subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis
+brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix basi
+cohaerentibus.&mdash;Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are five,
+six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA. It
+differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.]
+
+<p>[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime
+linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris subtus
+albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis, ovariis
+semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo glabro.
+&mdash;Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently purple.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-22"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-22.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Lindley's Range</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter08"></a>
+<h4>Chapter VIII.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.&mdash;INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.&mdash;ASCENT
+OF MOUNT FARADAY.&mdash;RETURN TO THE WARREGO.&mdash;A NATIVE OLD MAN.&mdash;PASS BY
+MOUNT OWEN.&mdash;THE MARANOÀ.&mdash;RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.&mdash;ITS
+TRIBUTARIES.&mdash;NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.&mdash;POSSESSION CREEK.&mdash;A HORSE KILLED BY
+ACCIDENT.&mdash;APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.&mdash;FIND ALL WELL THERE.&mdash;MANY
+PLANTS FOUND THERE.&mdash;HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.&mdash;RIDE TO MOUNT
+SOWERBY.&mdash;FOSSILS FOUND THERE.&mdash;&mdash;THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPÔT
+CAMP.&mdash;TRACE THE MARANÒA DOWNWARDS.&mdash;OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.&mdash;WATER
+SCARCE.&mdash;REQUISITE PONDS.&mdash;REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.&mdash;TRACES
+OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.&mdash;THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT
+ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.&mdash;MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A
+DIRECT LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.</blockquote>
+
+<p>
+7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.&mdash;THESE two days were devoted to the
+completion of my maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the
+birds seen on the Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I
+had enough to do in my tent, although the heat was intense.
+
+<p>9TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles,
+to take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined
+the sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious
+organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my
+absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone strata,
+and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of sandstone
+underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men were on
+very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be
+disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before
+encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly
+overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the
+heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was
+evidently discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain
+commenced to fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during
+four hours. Such a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I
+could not be so vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our
+benefit alone, I felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the
+cavernous hill the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of
+umbelliferous plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of
+the COMESPERMA SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind
+observed in September, it did not grow above one foot high. A small
+shrub grew on the rocks, a pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A
+Cunn. (from Port Essington and Melville Island); but the branches, with
+their leaves, are more stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker
+supposes it to be a new species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved
+plant, with long branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which
+Professor de Vriese has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural
+order of Goodeniads, and which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*]
+Thermometer, meter, at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9,
+64°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae
+quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque
+auriculato-crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne
+appendice proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes,
+cohaerentes. Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium
+uniovulatum; stylus inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in
+nuce solitarium.
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho,
+itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero
+geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia
+Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus
+characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum
+generibus huc usque cognitis, diversa.
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis,
+petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide
+viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia
+spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi bracteolatis,
+corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis; paracorollis
+nigrescentibus.
+&nbsp;Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in
+Nova-Hollandia subtropica.
+&nbsp;Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII
+de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est teres.
+Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 1½ cent. lata, petiolata,
+petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere ½ cent. longo,
+integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata, fere
+alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-lanceolatae,
+utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere 10-15 cent.
+longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi communes 5-10 cent.
+longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores alterni, sessiles,
+bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi, limbis obsoletis;
+corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis, externe medio calycis instar
+hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere
+hiantibus, interiori mediaeque loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera,
+filiformia, antherae his continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe.
+&mdash;DE VRIESE.]
+
+<p>10TH OCTOBER.&mdash;We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in
+fine condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the
+reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and
+weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did
+not think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer
+sometimes above 100°, and therefore I was more desirous to retire from
+it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the summit of
+Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my map. Mr.
+Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects, while I
+ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above the sea.
+The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS ELATIOR,
+PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a villous
+form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow, closepressed
+leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the crater
+being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the summit.
+On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had arrived
+there at 3 p.m., the distance travelled comprising two former days'
+journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none had
+been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now
+beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its
+panicles of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four
+feet high, was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy
+variety of LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open
+ground; the ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open
+forest we found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA,
+a spiny-leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the
+EUPHORBIA EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr.
+Stephenson and I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that
+we only reached the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 82; at 9, 62°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis
+linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis
+nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus albopubescentibus.
+&mdash;Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves,
+which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and in
+the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a
+broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.]
+
+<p>[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus
+patentibus vestitis. G. B.]
+
+<p>[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25
+obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis,
+racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus
+ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.]
+
+<p>[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis
+segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis
+pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis
+subtuberculatis.]
+
+<p>[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis fastigiatis
+foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris, capsulis
+globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.&mdash;Collected by Allan Cunningham
+in Dirk Hartog's island.]
+
+<p>11TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Following the chord of the arc described by our
+journeys of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warregò, I made
+the furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing
+through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us
+here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a
+few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at
+noon, 80°; at 4 p.m. 88°; at 9, 57°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>12TH OCTOBER.&mdash;This day we also turned two former days' journeys
+into one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 p.m., the ponds at the
+intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains
+had left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our
+horses on the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of
+the HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the
+scales of the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA,
+occurred in the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after
+we set out in the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley
+towards us, without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not
+until he had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran
+up amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop,
+when repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small
+bag on his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was
+grey but very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully
+frightened, which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained
+from him some information about the ultimate course of the Warrego,
+etc. We found water in one of the rocky ponds near our former
+encampment, but others in which some had formerly been found, were
+dry, and I was not without some doubt about finding water, on our way
+back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at sunrise, 42°; at noon, 87°; at
+4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 78°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 60°.
+
+<p>13TH OCTOBER.&mdash;The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79°
+here, where in June last it had been as low as 7°. The sky had been
+clouded, but the morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in
+passing amongst the sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount
+Owen the day became very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On
+Mount Owen Mr. Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow
+flowers[*], and the SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink
+flowers. We took up our old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest
+of water. The ponds formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a
+deep one in the solid rock, containing enough for months. It was
+inaccessible to horses, but with a bucket we watered both these and the
+bullocks. The mercurial column was low, the sky became overcast, and a
+slight shower raised our hopes that at length rain might fall in sufficient
+quantity to relieve us from the difficulty about water, in returning
+towards Mr. Kennedy's camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon,
+79°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 64°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis
+reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo
+longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo
+brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.&mdash;Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA,
+but of the same form.]
+
+<p>14TH OCTOBER.&mdash;During the night several smart showers fell, and at
+daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather
+heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our
+former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the
+Maranòa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the
+large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th
+June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it
+might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent
+supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 52°;&mdash;with wet bulb,
+48°.
+
+<p>15TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was
+cold, the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The
+morning presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather
+being rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the
+men dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at
+first endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its
+course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that I
+left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former track.
+We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old track at a
+convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the camp of 15th
+June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had cleared up,
+and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing from S.E. On
+the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or Australian
+form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran before Mr.
+Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little bush at the
+foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like a hare, and left
+a similar track. It was about the size of a small rabbit. The death of our
+dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and drought, had been a very
+serious loss to us, as we found on many occasions like this; and where
+kangaroos, of apparently rare species, escaped from us from our having
+no dogs. We were, also, from want of such dogs, much more exposed to
+attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+45°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 57°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+<p>16TH OCTOBER.&mdash;A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze
+from east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little
+river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher
+ground grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four
+feet high. At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river
+beside that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and,
+early in the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next
+camp at Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry;
+but, on following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction
+with the Maranòa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin
+of water at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low
+trailing bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of
+a European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an
+entire-leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS
+BRACHIATUS, with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground
+near the river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the
+men eagerly asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern
+NICOTIANA SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 51°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 42°. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.)
+
+<p>17TH OCTOBER.&mdash;The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point
+this morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In
+crossing Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent
+natives. From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII,
+where we arrived early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I
+followed the dry channel down to its junction, and found the Maranòa
+full of water; this point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We
+had this day passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also
+groves of the ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed
+drooping, from the want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing
+purposes. We saw, this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry
+forest land; and the purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA
+SPECTABILIS formed a spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA
+LEIOCARPA, and CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new
+MYRIOGYNE[*], and a small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt,
+glaueous leaves, tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an
+orange, proved to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**]
+
+<p>[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti,
+caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis punctatis,
+capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.&mdash;Very different from any
+described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.]
+
+<p>[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis
+crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris
+dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.]
+
+<p>It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the
+brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be
+described. If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he
+knows.
+
+<p>The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in
+seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may
+be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a
+precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the river.
+One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which,
+falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much
+hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man,
+leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to
+particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been
+enforced by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32°;
+at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 79°; at 9, 60°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 45°.
+
+<p>18TH OCTOBER.&mdash;The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and
+apparently dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the
+creek. This loss, when we were so near our depôt camp, was much to be
+regretted, as we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and
+horse, after an absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days.
+We saw not a single native about the woods or the river, and were,
+therefore, the more anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives
+had agreed at the depôt camp, now within a day's ride of us. We
+continued to follow our former track to Camp XXXI, and it may be
+remarked, to their credit, that the aborigines had not attempted to deface
+any of these marked trees. It might have occurred, even to them, that
+such marks were preparatory to the advent of more white men into their
+country. The fine, deep reaches in the river, looked still full and
+unfailing; and a short journey to-morrow would take us to the camp of
+the rest of the party. We this day found a little jasmine in flower, of
+which Mr. Stephenson had formerly collected the seeds. It was white, not
+more than a foot high, with solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful
+fragrance, and it grew in the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with
+pods, which the natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker
+to be the BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of
+Cunn. Here was picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the
+genus PIMELEA, with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and
+by the river we found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS.
+
+<p>[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis
+sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis
+longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.]
+
+<p>[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus pilis
+paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.]
+
+<p>The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and
+a half had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long
+time to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained
+undisturbed, although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by
+savages. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon, 83°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at 9,
+64°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 48°.
+
+<p>19TH OCTOBER.&mdash;The party was early in motion along the old track.
+Leaving the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country
+so as to hit the track again within a few miles of the depôt camp. Old
+tracks of cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE,
+were the first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we
+see any thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging
+the river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even
+recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they
+see us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle.
+Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the
+cliffs, while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men
+heartily responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and
+was the first to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party
+were well; that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the
+aborigines had never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up;
+a storehouse had also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and
+contained lettuce, radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole
+establishment evinced the good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale,
+the storekeeper, had collected many birds and plants, and had also been
+careful of the stores. The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown
+very much, and seemed a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse
+Mr. Kennedy had had with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my
+instructions to him, was curiously characteristic of the tact and
+originality of this singular race. On one occasion, when on being
+informed that natives were near, he had hastened to meet them, taking
+little Dicky with him, he found remaining only a female and her mother,
+a remarkably old woman, who had before concealed herself among the
+reeds. The daughter on his approach sung a beautiful song, rapidly
+running through the whole gammut. Then bowing her head, she
+presented the back of it to him, and placing her stone-tomahawk in his
+hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the tomahawk on the
+ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he prevailed on the
+mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was much more
+AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to denounce the
+white men;&mdash;her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if prophetic of the
+advent of another race, and the certain failure of her own.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-23"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-23.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Old native female</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged parent,
+playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully protruding lip. Mr.
+Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the downward course
+of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point also, that the river
+passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she named, and even the
+Culgòa: she seemed to say the name of that locality was "Mundì."
+Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger wore, by way
+of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac, suspended by a cord
+from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the daughter, with a
+graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to the stranger,
+waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy and Dicky
+immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy Dicky
+away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:&mdash;"Sunday,
+26th July. Prayers were read at 11 a.m., after which, having been told by
+Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a
+native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky
+than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what
+information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I
+had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the
+natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first
+object that caught my eye was the bait&mdash;a gin, dancing before some
+admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by
+great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were
+gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him
+Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its general
+course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our impression
+was that he called it Bàlun. With respect to its course, he plainly said that
+it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the direction of that river
+and then following with his hand, the various windings of this branch;
+repeating the while some word implying 'walk, walk,' and ending with
+'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains Bindàngo and
+Bindyègo. After this conversation he took some fat, which he appeared
+to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing it, and
+then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him, and (as
+Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men, who
+were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they
+obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite
+direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and
+disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking
+back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our
+tents, and that no white man should go to his camp."
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-24"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-24.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Aboriginal dance</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at
+most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the
+river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so
+long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it, as
+our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale,
+the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of
+the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August,
+plants had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had
+been found in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook.
+EURYBIOPSIS MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA;
+GOODENIA CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety
+of BORONIA BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the
+leaves simply pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new
+species of EURYBIA and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA?
+with the habit of Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose
+LEUCOPOGON; a species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was
+covered with wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA,
+apparently the same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling,
+but taller and less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed;
+SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES
+DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with
+unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both
+perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM,
+with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves
+nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM, closely
+resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle of St.
+Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the
+Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****] A
+beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****] A new
+LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA VIRGATA (Hook.
+MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new DODONOEA in the way
+of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender flower stalks.[*********]
+
+<p>[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis
+rigidis apice nudis, spicâ compositâ laxâ tenui villosâ, glumis pilosis,
+paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta ligulam
+villosis.]
+
+<p>[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis
+elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis
+crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin,
+racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis
+multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis,
+ovario tomentoso.&mdash;Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten
+inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.]
+
+<p>[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus
+radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longè
+pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.]
+
+<p>[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis linearioblongis
+pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus
+paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris, antherarum
+calcare longiore loculum superante.&mdash;The foliage and flowers look at
+first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN EUPHRASIOE.
+The leaves are about three lines long.]
+
+<p>[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis
+angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.&mdash;Young buds
+rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre having a
+slight tinge of purple.]
+
+<p>[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis membranaceis
+oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus villosisve,
+calycibus subsessilibus villosis.]
+
+<p>[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis
+patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis
+crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio triplo
+longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.]
+
+<p>[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-tomentosis,
+foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra
+pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis fulvescentibus,
+stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis axillaribus
+unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo longioribus.]
+
+<p>[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis
+elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore,
+pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis
+rotundatis.]
+
+<p>In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS
+SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES
+LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.;
+CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with
+yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader
+haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA
+OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub
+with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of
+SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence;
+SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA;
+LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A.
+HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both
+sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river
+Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct
+from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill.
+PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf,
+herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A
+PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS;
+PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS,
+R. Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA;
+XEROTES LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM
+BULBOSUM, R. Br. GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it:
+exactly the same species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM
+ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS;
+BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA, apparently new. A new and fine species of
+MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species
+of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM,
+with conical flower-heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple
+flowers.[******] A new species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 50°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis,
+foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis
+sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis, corolla
+calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.&mdash;Near M. AUSTRALIS Br.,
+but the leaves broader and flowers larger.]
+
+<p>[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis
+rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis glandulosi
+glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato, antherarum
+calcaribus loculo brevioribus.&mdash;Foliage nearly that of P. RHOMBEA.
+Flowers much larger.]
+
+<p>[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis 13-
+15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice paucifloris,
+legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.&mdash;A low plant with much the
+habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller than in S.
+CORONILLOEFOLIA.]
+
+<p>[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis, foliis
+angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos breves
+solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra medium
+inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario parvo
+globoso lanato.]
+
+<p>[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis
+ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spicâ
+conicâ, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosâ.
+
+<p>[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue
+dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve
+obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris solitariis
+folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-fido calycem
+5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.&mdash;This species was also found
+by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple, sometimes
+yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable, monophyllous,
+broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the calyx.&mdash;W.
+J. H.]
+
+<p>[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis ovalioblongis
+sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis pubescentibus,
+pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in pedunculo brevissimo
+solitariis geminisve.]
+
+<p>20TH OCTOBER.&mdash;It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the
+blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the horses.
+I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles eastward of
+the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The hill
+consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were
+imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt
+wood, and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of
+wood, young shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire;
+showing the black scarified parts, and those left untouched or
+unscarified, very plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn,
+and were full of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed
+to the sun. These specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer
+parts came off in soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant,
+although they felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather
+isolated, but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's
+Pass, and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which
+forms a nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this
+hill, to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The
+weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount
+Sowerby; the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and
+amongst the grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO,
+perhaps not distinct from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+39°; at noon, 56°; 4 p.m., 87°; at 9, 67°; with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>21ST OCTOBER.&mdash;I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to
+which I had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle
+from it on Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show
+him many of the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was
+about to lay down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land,
+extending from the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about
+twelve miles. On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little
+PTEROSTYLIS, quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a
+new KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious
+new form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a
+new JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short
+axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley
+after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet
+flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the
+LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a smallflowered
+species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA
+PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4, p.m., 84°; at 9,
+65° with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis, vaginis
+scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli laminâ
+ovato-lineari obtusâ canaliculatâ supra pilis (luteis) articulatis crinitâ.]
+
+<p>[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve mucronulatis
+utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-lanceolatis
+acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris petiolo multo
+longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.&mdash;Flowers considerably smaller
+than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.]
+
+<p>[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris margine
+spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spicâ cylindraceâ distichâ
+secundâ, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente, paleae
+inferioris dorso lanatae aristâ rectâ glumâ mucronatâ multinervi longiore.]
+
+<p>[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus
+linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus subsessilibus
+foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus subtruncatis 5-dentatis,
+corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.]
+
+<p>22D OCTOBER.&mdash;The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the
+natives, about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which,
+even on foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from
+the camp), and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES
+PEELII had, at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this
+river was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first
+followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy
+about. By following this down, the probability that we should find water
+seemed greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left
+behind some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water
+remaining, especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I
+therefore determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its
+course. We left the depôt camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging
+cliffs on the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The
+camp we left, namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depôt camp,"
+will be found a valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first
+squatter coming this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the
+natives few and inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it
+very complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had
+become slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even,
+indeed, perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had
+fallen two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches
+lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was
+perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party, and
+encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly crossed
+by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats by
+the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became darkgreen
+not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not
+depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive
+as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with
+them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the
+grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of
+bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr.
+Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that
+the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net
+untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at
+9, 70°; with wet bulb, 56°. Height above the sea, 1185 feet (Camp 76).
+
+<p>23RD OCTOBER.&mdash;We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
+drays, which only took place at ½ past 11, a.m. The cattle were found
+to be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
+Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
+Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
+directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
+rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
+DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid, with a
+denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
+(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
+were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at
+noon, 91°; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, 65°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
+ovatiscordatis acutis argutè crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
+pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
+calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.&mdash;SIDA DUMOSA, J.
+Backhouse MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive
+range; having been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane
+River by Fraser and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All.
+Cunningham.]
+
+<p>[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
+Hook. Herb.&mdash;Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i.
+p. 147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
+
+<p>24TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered
+upon an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank
+of the river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south.
+The cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
+plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
+twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
+whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
+route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
+higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not
+then suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course
+was so favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of
+these extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered
+as they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
+open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
+downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
+remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
+camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this was
+numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
+surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they will
+not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also enable the
+land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map of the
+country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the afternoon, and
+the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a clear starry sky, at
+9 p.m., admitted of our observations as usual. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+53°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 58°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 47°. Height
+above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.)
+
+<p>[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
+integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
+terminalibusque.&mdash;The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
+broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
+and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.&mdash;W. J. H. "Tree 20
+feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
+
+<p>25TH OCTOBER.&mdash;We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I
+had perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
+or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
+ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
+approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
+contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
+brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
+eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
+extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
+east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped after
+a journey of 10 1/3; miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
+south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
+with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our
+former route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
+neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
+country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at
+noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 65°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 51°. Height above
+the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
+
+<p>26TH OCTOBER.&mdash;A river coming into the Maranòa, about a mile from
+our camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its
+course throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
+these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranòa on
+our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
+pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20° E. of S. At
+length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N. W.,
+full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed the
+main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of broad
+blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of the
+Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous
+ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land.
+Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the
+river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the grass
+was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered over
+the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of
+whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed
+of the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish
+(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in
+the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings,
+showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes
+continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such
+circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones,
+some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the
+nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and
+made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted
+wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or
+moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I
+could not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.
+M., 93°; at 9, 75°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
+
+<p>27TH OCTOBER.&mdash;We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
+found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
+islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course, and
+contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the bush
+was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she had
+ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us without
+any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-forward
+course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the name of
+the river; to which question she replied, in his own language, "The name
+of that water is Maranòa:" thus confirming the name we had already
+understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It proved the
+accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first communicated to
+him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The gin appeared
+to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female wore no sort
+of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal who may have
+been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling about fourteen
+miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and encamped beside it.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 95°; at 9, 77°;
+&mdash;wet bulb, 65°. Height above the sea, 832 feet. (Camp 80.)
+
+<p>[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-ovatis
+trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-serratis, subtus
+bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.&mdash;Shrub three feet high. Flowers
+scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan river.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-25"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-25.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>View on the River Maranòa</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>28TH OCTOBER.&mdash;Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I
+most willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
+sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
+presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
+woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
+characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
+their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees; have
+half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like the willow,
+the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and I was informed
+by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives call it
+"Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in waterholes. They
+are too honest and fair in their fights to think of poisoning their weapons.
+The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly characteristic of its
+deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline resembling
+Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,&mdash;
+
+<p>&mdash;"who dwelt about the very gates of death,
+Pale misery had worn him to the bones."
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-26"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-26.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Acacia VARIANS</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 a.m., after which we had a
+cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
+for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
+dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 60°;&mdash;wet bulb, 51°.
+
+<p>29TH OCTOBER.&mdash;A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so
+much ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to
+bullocks or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter
+want of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country
+was open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
+reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and drivers,
+had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and measuring
+twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this seemed
+only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain what was
+beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards. We
+found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
+main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
+to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped.
+We discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
+Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and
+covered with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face
+being rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan;
+for which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling
+those made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on
+this shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
+the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
+these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed for
+war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 68°;
+at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 49°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
+
+<p>30TH OCTOBER.&mdash;We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the
+dry channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of
+our former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of
+water was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which
+was by following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush
+would allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while
+we proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having
+halted the small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with
+Yuranigh, but all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a
+part of the sandy bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough
+he thrust in, that there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I
+returned, determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock
+teams had also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that
+Drysdale, having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had
+been led to the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the
+cattle had been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding
+water the dog was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We
+had come about fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on
+the map. On doing this, I found we had at length attained a point from
+whence, in case of necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if
+no water were found in the country intervening, the direct distance being
+under forty miles. During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found,
+higher up than the first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then
+to proceed prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the
+Balonne, but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would
+oblige us to go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.
+M., 78°; at 9, 60°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>31ST OCTOBER.&mdash;Two men were sent to the westward, where they
+found a dry sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my
+first ride from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I
+was myself engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 84°; at 9, 51°
+&mdash;wet bulb, 43°. Height above the sea, 882 feet.
+
+<p>1ST NOVEMBER.&mdash;The cattle and horses, having been all night loose
+beside Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded.
+After travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of
+inundation, and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for
+water, Yuranigh found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I
+encamped, resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be
+traversed in uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found
+rocky ridges on the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives
+in the woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the
+aspect of drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral
+country, traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I
+think this want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in
+that back country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance,
+the Cogoon.
+
+<p>2D NOVEMBER.&mdash;After watering all the animals, we went forward,
+prepared to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water
+until we arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we
+were to traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the
+country appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel
+of the river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
+sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
+formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
+north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
+This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
+along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranòa.
+The water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line
+along the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
+country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranòa, a supply
+would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
+(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
+straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27° 31' 37" S., we
+again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 79°; at 9, 63°;
+&mdash;with wet bulb, 61°. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet.
+
+<p>3D NOVEMBER.&mdash;The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as
+I had determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
+Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles above
+that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through much
+open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris always
+appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length, plains
+again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them, after
+travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line, running
+north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on towards the
+main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from it, so that we
+were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a half, after a
+journey, with carts, of 26½ miles. Here occurred the only Epiphyte
+observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts of trees
+in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of Brown.
+One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long. The
+fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than usual,
+at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an inconspicuous
+weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA TRICHOSTACHYA was
+there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a woolly. ANDROPOGON,
+which appeared not to be distinct from the A. BOMBYCINUS. In the open
+forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA OCCIDENTALIS, and on the
+plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and
+a creeping plant, with yellow flowers, since found to be a new species of
+GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at
+9, 66°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 54°. Height above the sea, 819 feet.
+
+<p>[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
+dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
+corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.&mdash;Probably a
+distinct genus.]
+
+<p>[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
+longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
+axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido, laciniis
+lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava, labio superiore
+fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio ciliato; flagellis
+folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula prismatica, biloculari; seminibus
+marginatis compressis; flagellis floriferis; floribus in axilla folii
+ovatorotundati, auriculati, subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius
+pedunculatis.&mdash;Folia radicalia, 8-10 cent. longa, 1½-2 cent. lata,
+apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum attenuata, subdecurrentia,
+utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia flagellorum bracteiformia,
+ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere auriculata, alterutra auricula
+multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum illarum axillis, reliquis multo
+minoribus neque ad normam perfectis, brevius pedunculatis. Affinis
+species G. HEDERACEOE.&mdash;DE VR.]
+
+<p>4TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;At an early hour we proceeded, and had the
+satisfaction soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the
+majestic Balonne. This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames
+at Richmond; its banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and
+the merry notes of numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering
+appearance; especially to us who were again upon a route connected with
+home, and at a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen
+that route. We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey,
+of the lower Maranòa, a river which had brought us in a very straight
+direction back to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established
+a well watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in
+the more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark
+is intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranòa x. being
+marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
+cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
+felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled districts,
+and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during seven
+months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
+cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied it
+so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
+sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when
+I set out,&mdash;much improved in health,&mdash;bronzed and bearded; sunproof,
+fly-proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of
+it, "LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at
+4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 71°;&mdash;wet bulb, 59°. Height above the sea, 738 feet.
+
+<p>5TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;We now travelled back along our old track towards
+Camp VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depôt had been
+stationed; the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were
+visible along our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far
+these parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
+advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this day,
+we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
+a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
+running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
+until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
+tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
+accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
+then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
+think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
+of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
+both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
+articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
+their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the exploring
+party; and of the very favourable impression we had made formerly on
+the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of this river. In
+the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the ripe fruit of the
+"Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in flower that we
+thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at 4
+p.m., 85°; at 9, 71°;&mdash;wet bulb, 59°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-27"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-27.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>St. Georgia's Bridge</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter09"></a>
+<h4>Chapter IX.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.&mdash;I COMPLETE THE
+MAPS.&mdash;EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.&mdash;NEW PLANTS FOUND.&mdash;MR. KENNEDY
+RETURNS&mdash;AFTER SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.&mdash;CORPORAL GRAHAM
+SENT WITH DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.&mdash;THE PARTY
+CROSSES THE BALONNE&mdash;BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.&mdash;REACHES THE MOONI PONDS&mdash;OR
+RIVER.&mdash;TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.&mdash;A WHITE WOMAN MET
+WITH.&mdash;CATTLE STATIONS.&mdash;HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE
+PARTY.&mdash;FLOODS ALMOST SURROUND THE CAMP.&mdash;THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF
+SAND.&mdash;AFTER SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE
+BARWAN.&mdash;A FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.&mdash;PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.&mdash;MUSQUITOES
+NUMEROUS AFTER THE RAIN.&mdash;STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.&mdash;THE MAAL ALSO
+FLOODED.&mdash;CROSS IT WITH THE BOATS.&mdash;THE MEEI CROSSED.&mdash;CROSS OTHER
+BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.&mdash;RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.&mdash;ENTER ON EXTENSIVE
+PLAINS.&mdash;SNODGRASS LAGOON.&mdash;A YOUNG SQUATTER.&mdash;LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE
+OF MR. KENNEDY.&mdash;RIDE HOMEWARDS.</blockquote>
+
+<p>5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;These days I devoted to the protracting of
+angles taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to
+the Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy,
+followed by Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country
+in the direction of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of
+1831; that was on the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29° 2' S., and bearing
+about 20° E. of S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni"
+ponds, were said to water the intervening country, and I wished to
+ascertain whether they were favourable for the connection of our recently
+explored route, with the termination of that marked out by me in 1831,
+when my journey, undertaken expressly with the same objects in view,
+was accidentally frustrated.
+
+<p>Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with
+the despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of
+the Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish
+maps and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from
+excessive heat, under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of
+the river were gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA;
+FUSANUS ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which
+Yuranigh brought us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON
+MACULOSUM, was also in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous
+plant, has been determined by Professor De Vriese to be identical with
+the Swan River GOODENIA PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the
+cattle, proved to be a variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in
+February on the Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be
+the same as the G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R.
+Br., was covered with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy
+open parts of the forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high,
+with the foliage of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with
+short racemes of white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural
+order of Bixads, and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*]
+A submerged plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of
+MYRIOPHYLLUM, with tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub,
+was in flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit.[****]
+A new ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a
+forest tree twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[*****] A
+fir-leaved CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to
+five feet high.[******] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the
+river-bank[*******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[********], completed the list
+of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's Bridge.
+
+<p>[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis supra
+griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo longioribus,
+floribus hermaphroditis.&mdash;OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog. imbricata. ST. 5 in
+margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc. plac. 3-par. STYLUS
+simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus, verisim. carnosus.]
+
+<p>[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
+emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
+fructibus tuberculatis.]
+
+<p>[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque minute
+puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis glabris,
+glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-floris folio
+multo brevioribus.&mdash;Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets are fewer
+and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are wanting.&mdash;G. B.
+
+<p>[**** M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste lanceolatis
+planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
+linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.&mdash;Intermediate
+between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
+
+<p>[***** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
+integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
+
+<p>[****** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
+lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
+brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
+contorto.&mdash;Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
+leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
+yet ripe.]
+
+<p>[******* M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra, ramis
+strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis, pedicellis
+plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.&mdash;This is a very
+distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836, but
+my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
+branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
+are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of
+M. GLABRA. G.B.]
+
+<p>[******** I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis canescens,
+foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis mucronatis v.
+emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis folia vix
+superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus brevissimis
+obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.&mdash;It has much
+the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not quite so small,
+and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
+
+<p>15TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than
+was expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
+Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
+horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
+project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
+settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
+north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
+within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however, cost
+the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
+direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
+magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden
+almost parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
+finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
+were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
+had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
+the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these
+gentlemen Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the
+new Governor.
+
+<p>17TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;The whole party crossed the Balonne by St.
+George's Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small
+advanced party on the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28° 17' 51" S.
+The channel was full of water, and thus we completed the last link
+wanted to form a chain of communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the
+furthest limits we had explored. The ground was imprinted with the
+hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as if at home. The day was one of
+extreme heat without any wind; the thermometer stood at 104° in the
+shade. Yet the horses drew the carts easily twenty-four miles and a
+quarter. We had passed over a country covered with excellent grass,
+consisting chiefly of plains and open forest, with scrubs of ACACIA
+PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs we found a new species of
+CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and in the open forest ACACIA
+NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus
+related to SERICEUS; a new yellow CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species
+of STENOCHILUS, with willowy leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 104°; at 9,
+81°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 67°. Height above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
+
+<p>[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis setaceis,
+foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra glabris subtus
+ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis oppositifoliis
+elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro brevi recto, ovulis
+numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.&mdash;Very near to C.
+SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is more rigid, the
+leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and the pod (which is
+only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short stalk.]
+
+<p>[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
+longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
+acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima dilatata
+subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.&mdash;Leaves
+three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and clammy.
+Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of the
+corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This difference in
+the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing it into a distinct
+genus instead of a mere section, especially as that peculiarity which gave
+the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it not that the forms of the
+corolla are so different in different other species, that they will not
+furnish generic characters where the habit is similar.&mdash;G. B.]
+
+<p>18TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;The teams came in very early, not having been
+above one mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of
+some decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot.
+The season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that
+between the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for
+visiting the tropical regions of Australia.
+
+<p>Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
+species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
+less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
+MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
+of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in rich
+soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
+forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
+CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
+LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°;
+at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at 9, 76°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis rigidis
+mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi in
+petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
+pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
+
+<p>[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
+foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis, pedunculis
+folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis campanulati
+dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine puberulo.]
+
+<p>19TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
+cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and
+the channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
+of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
+and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when
+our young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my
+attention to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white
+woman going with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he
+could ever have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was
+amusing, as he pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as
+something curious in natural history, to which my attention, as he
+thought, would be rivetted: but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome
+one to all the party. Soon two comfortable stations, one on each side of
+the river, appeared before us; and the neatly dressed mother of two
+chubby white children stood at the door of one of them. I had a
+memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the other, to thank the owner
+for lending him a horse; and there I first entered again under a roof, and a
+most agreeable cover it did seem to me after living nearly a year under
+canvass, in houseless wilds. These were cattle stations, and both
+appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose, and upon a scale more
+substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto seen in squatting districts.
+The placing of two such stations thus near each other, is a good
+arrangement, not only affording better security against the depredations
+of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of solitude and loneliness
+such places in general present; and in the outset of such a life,
+implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of social union, on the
+solid basis of mutual protection.
+
+<p>I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
+obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
+near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104° in
+the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 104°;
+at 9, 75°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 63°. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28° 30' 51" S.
+
+<p>20TH NOVEMBER.&mdash;Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably
+open forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr.
+Kennedy's track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided
+back by an experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and
+fell into a cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where
+we fell into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree
+at this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this
+camp, the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong
+leaves, and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and
+belongs to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
+HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
+BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
+cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
+beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
+flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
+a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
+not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
+carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
+"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
+Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
+
+<p>[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens, foliis
+cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis dentatoserratis,
+stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus solitariis
+unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido laciniis
+acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.&mdash;W. J. H.]
+
+<p>[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis longe
+acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis lateralibus a
+margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris), umbellis
+pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
+attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
+
+<p>Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and
+the sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it
+on this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any
+reason to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the
+beginning of April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and
+inundate the country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so
+was the rain. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 62°; at 4 p.m., 57°;
+at 9, 53°;&mdash;with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>21ST NOVEMBER.&mdash;The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain
+had set in,&mdash;to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy
+day rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing
+maps in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
+recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
+a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
+prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
+change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
+so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that I
+endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For that
+reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous route of
+Fort Bourke.
+
+<p>21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.&mdash;The sky resembled that in
+Poussin's picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole
+year with scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so
+long been due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had
+fallen a year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much
+indeed; whereas it was now very likely to retard the return of the party.
+This was the only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded
+our progress; the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and
+we had still to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen
+the marks of floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining
+on my mind, that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out
+of these flats as soon as possible.
+
+<p>On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
+waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
+until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
+drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
+lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
+down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations
+on the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water
+might reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a
+sand-hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected
+in good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and
+that we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by
+which the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground
+almost surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would,
+probably, render our passage out of that position difficult, even after the
+waters had subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam
+across this hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent
+the inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than
+sand to oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded
+in arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
+four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
+it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
+the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained above
+water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641 feet, or
+about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to rise until the
+2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day they began
+slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded from the
+dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began to present
+clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather was slow,
+and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their blossoms as
+soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS PILOSUS Benth.;
+a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again seen here;
+CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches, and very
+sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the appearance of a
+sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only on the 7th that a
+crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm for the cattle to
+travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity of quitting that
+camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us seventeen
+days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged us to
+tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this day
+passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until we
+arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I had
+been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
+the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
+however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
+direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
+That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
+growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A
+heavy thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I
+was under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
+journey.
+
+<p>8TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 69°. Height above the sea,
+782 feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
+direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible
+general line of communication between Sydney and the Maranòa. It
+seemed desirable that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my
+journey of 1831), some miles above the point where I had formerly
+reached that river; and thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy,
+falling into my old track about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of
+Mount Riddell. With this view, our latitude being 28° 57' 20" S.,
+longitude 149° 11' E., I chose the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 23½° E.
+of S.), for my homeward guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a
+good firm surface, for sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at
+the bank of the Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through
+some open scrub, chiefly of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small
+grassy plains; saw one or two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris.
+An improvement was visible in the quality of the grass, when we came
+within the distance of about two miles from the river; and open forests or
+plains of richer soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the
+presence of the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we
+saw no cart tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle,
+apparently pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There
+was still a considerable flood in the river, although the water had been
+recently much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks.
+Latitude, 28° 37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-28"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-28.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Last use of the boats</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>9TH DECEMBER.&mdash;All hands were busy this morning in making
+preparations for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together,
+and on reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable
+place for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected
+without accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river
+at the same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the
+river than that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the
+number 87, cut on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want
+of such a mark, could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it
+should have been found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our
+stores and equipment were carried across in the boats. These looked well
+in the water; their trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret
+that I had not reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its
+channel had been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never
+were constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were
+creditable to the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole
+party was comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the
+Barwan, just before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had
+fallen several feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 82°.
+
+<p>10TH DECEMBER.&mdash;At 6 a.m. thermometer 68°. The mosquitoes were
+most tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my
+tent, who remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em,
+the more they brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the
+fancy," of which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses,
+although tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus.
+Some had broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained
+by Yuranigh, that four other strange horses were with ours, having come
+amongst them and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh-
+bouring station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the
+horses at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone
+forward with the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus
+upon the "Maäl," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of
+water, with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
+employ the boats. This channel was distant 5½ miles from where we
+had crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the
+yokes, drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very
+well; "RARÎ NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats,
+and the horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an
+early hour on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be
+marked 88, in figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29° 1' 20" S.
+This seemed to be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February,
+1832, at a similar distance from the main river.
+
+<p>11TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 7 a.m., 70°. We continued to
+travel homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a
+direct line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The
+plains were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new
+CANTHIUM, was in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which
+Sir William Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely
+differing from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the
+calyx (not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
+blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a short
+beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
+THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS
+plant, quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous
+pinnatifid leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with
+stout needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met
+with no impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although
+without reaching water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect
+to meet with any watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir;
+which latter river I wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to
+meet with roads and inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become
+rare in this intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state,
+and most exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed
+through several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature
+for the distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here,
+each seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble
+in water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
+broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to trees
+or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the plains, the
+blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the eye: the
+rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines, a genus
+referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a new
+POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****] Height above
+the sea, 554 feet.
+
+<p>[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
+racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.&mdash;Habit of a
+SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
+species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
+structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
+slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
+
+<p>[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis basi
+in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus didymis.]
+
+<p>[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
+subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis strictis
+longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique ovatis lignosis
+glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
+
+<p>[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
+linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
+brevioribus.]
+
+<p>12TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 67°. Passing over a
+similar sort of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first
+leaving the camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where
+the ground seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous,
+and cow-dung abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its
+smoke being a valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a
+little of it was burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious
+plains than any we had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised,
+with great pleasure and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell,
+distant 61 miles. This seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen
+laborious years, that had intervened since I had given a name to that
+summit. It now proved the accuracy of my recent survey, appearing
+exactly in the direction, where, according to my maps, I pointed my glass
+to look for it. Like the face of an old friend, which, as the Persian
+proverb says, "brighteneth the eyes," so this required clear eyes to be
+seen at all; even Yuranigh, could not at first be persuaded that it was not
+a cloud. This fine peak must always be a good landmark on these vast
+plains, and may yet brighten the eye of the traveller from India, when
+emerging from the level regions upon the Barwan. We next perceived at
+a distance, a cloud of dust raised by a numerous herd of cattle, and came
+upon a water-course, or branch of the Gwydir, called, I believe, the
+"Meei." As I wanted to cross the Gwydir, I crossed this and continued;
+met with another deep ditch or channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and,
+at three miles beyond that, another: none of these resembling the Gwydir
+I had formerly seen. I had ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to
+meet the carts, and encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of
+these two water-courses. The heavy drays were, of course, far behind.
+Latitude, 29° 34' 41" S. Height above the sea, 553 feet.
+
+<p>13TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 10 a.m., 70°. The drays joined us
+early, having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being
+Sunday, rest for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary.
+I found we were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we
+were from the camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in
+with some road, when we reached the country to which I had formerly
+led the way. At sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the
+barometer had fallen 2½ millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight
+shower followed, after which the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must
+have caused much difficulty and delay to the party, as we were upon low
+levels subject to inundation. Height above the sea, 499 feet.
+Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 88°.
+
+<p>14TH DECEMBER.&mdash;Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 76°. During the night, and
+at day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
+appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 a.m. the sun shone
+on the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a
+channel of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and
+still I doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the
+Gwydir, having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I
+had however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
+and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
+plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
+extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
+these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named, in
+former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
+having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to meet
+at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the year 1831.
+Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7 p.m., 87°.
+The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints but few
+traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly, but nothing
+else. No track remained along the line which I had so many years before
+laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look out for a
+stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my tent,
+but not without some apprehension that the people he had come amongst
+so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-Saxon
+race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian stockman.
+His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat about the ears
+of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his hand explained
+what he was about,&mdash;"in search of some stray cattle." He had evidently
+never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor of such a name
+as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow hill," according
+to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney he seemed to
+require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come from the
+station of Mr.&mdash;&mdash;, where he was employed as stockman. Came out
+from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his
+brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest
+of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no
+further.
+
+<p>16TH DECEMBER.&mdash;I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and,
+in looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The
+lagoon was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank;
+but having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the
+master and some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were
+hospitably received. It was then about 2 p.m., and tea mixed with milk
+was set before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled
+eggs. Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
+sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
+much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
+eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
+Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded
+along a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led
+horse. Before we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt,
+night overtook us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness.
+The cart-track was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way
+without it, we were obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the
+shelter of even a tree, until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not
+above two miles off, but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the
+inmates, and asking them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his
+head, and said he had no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away
+from these "abodes of civilized men," to look for my old track, which
+had been traced along the base of the Nundawàr Range, where the bold
+outlines of Mounts Lindesay and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the
+past, amongst clouds lighted by beams from the rising sun. After having
+been long in unknown regions, time and distance seem of little
+consequence when we return to those previously known; and thus the
+whole day soon passed in looking for my former track. But I sought it in
+vain; and was glad at night to turn towards the banks of the Nammoy, in
+search of a cattle-station. Since I had first explored that country to which
+my wheel-tracks marked and led the way, station after station had been
+taken up by squatters, not by following any line of route, but rather
+according to the course of the river, for the sake of water; and in such
+cases, the beaten track from station to station, no matter how crooked,
+becomes the road. Thus it is, in the fortuitous occupation of Australia,
+that order and arrangement may precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS
+come again." I arrived about sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the
+Nammoy, where I was hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it,
+who rode eight miles in twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and
+sugar for me, and who lived on very friendly terms with some old natives
+who remembered me, and my first advance into that country.
+
+<p>18TH DECEMBER.&mdash;At 6 a.m., Thermometer 75°. Height above the sea
+750 feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
+many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
+endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
+wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
+seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with
+my entire horse.
+
+<p>The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of
+the richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
+river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
+eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
+amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
+mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
+station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
+reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
+comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
+taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
+permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
+welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
+with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
+numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
+tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
+sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
+she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
+the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me
+some days after.[**]
+
+<p>[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
+
+<p>[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
+medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
+trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
+served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
+surveyor.]</p>
+
+<a name="chapter10"></a>
+<h4>Chapter X.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.&mdash;PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE
+CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.&mdash;APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON
+HORSEBACK.&mdash;MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.&mdash;Of the
+aborigines.&mdash;CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.&mdash;IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR
+CIVILIZATION.&mdash;Of the Convicts.&mdash;THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.&mdash;CHARACTER OF
+THOSE OF THE PARTY.&mdash;DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.&mdash;THE UNFORTUNATE AND
+THE DEPRAVED.&mdash;Of the present Colony of New South Wales.&mdash;NATURAL STATE.
+&mdash;CAPABILITIES.&mdash;ITS TEMPORARY USES.&mdash;ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.&mdash;RETENTION
+OF WATER.&mdash;NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.&mdash;GROWTH OF COTTON AND
+SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.&mdash;THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.&mdash;WHEAT
+CROPS.&mdash;DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.&mdash;ROADS.&mdash;PROJECTED
+RAILWAYS.&mdash;Conclusion.&mdash;ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.&mdash;ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS.
+&mdash;ULTIMATE TENDENCY.&mdash;MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL
+GOVERNMENT.&mdash;CO-OPERATION OF THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.&mdash;FINAL
+REPORT.&mdash;GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.&mdash;THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE
+TERRITORY.&mdash;PORT BOWEN&mdash;CAPRICORNIA.&mdash;GULF OF CARPENTARIA&mdash;AUSTRALINDIA.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass
+Lagoon arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January,
+and the new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities
+to the most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent
+the names to England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought
+deserving of Her Majesty's gracious pardon.
+
+<p>The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr.
+Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive
+(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light party
+on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and obtained His
+Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the river, and to
+apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the equipment
+of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle of March,
+with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare horses,
+with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen months.
+The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy was
+required to do.
+
+<p>* * *
+
+<p>Surveyor-General's Office,<br>
+Sydney, 22d February, 1847.</p>
+
+<p>"Sir,
+
+<p>"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my
+proposal for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small
+party to be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose
+to you a copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the
+late expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you
+will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions for
+your especial guidance may permit.
+
+<p>"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains
+so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you leave
+the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the Balonne at St.
+George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and thence by the
+route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you will
+proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying
+tracing of my survey.
+
+<p>"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my
+return route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far
+in looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the
+map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond
+Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on
+your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my old
+advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps
+(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warregò in
+the direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is
+very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can
+scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed as
+closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warregò may be
+looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th June.
+
+<p>"You will next pursue the course of the Warregò upwards towards
+Mount Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide
+you to. You will follow up the Cùnno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on
+your right or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my
+horse-track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish
+you would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track
+from the head of Cùnno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively
+open, in the direction of my bivouac of 11th September.
+
+<p>"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low,
+but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass
+your carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from
+which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but
+more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will
+have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher part,
+but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered valley,
+which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus far, you
+can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map, and
+following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he will
+no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It is
+very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the Victoria
+in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in which, should
+your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party is to be
+provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to your aid or
+assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall have reached
+the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in finding Camp
+(72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to follow down the
+watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the Victoria, and, as
+you have been instructed to take an expert native with you, you ought to
+find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting off large bends of the
+river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st October, you must keep
+by the river along my route back, and not follow the circuitous track
+which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After about four miles
+by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return track again crossed
+the outward track over the downs, so that you may fall into the route
+westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria. I fear you must
+depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings, for ascertaining
+the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th September. You
+will see by the map how generally straight my journeys were between
+these points, and how important it would be for you to know the situation
+of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out westward in
+the direction of my return route, instead of following the main channel
+throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the northward.
+Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever that
+may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map
+with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and
+determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and
+consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the
+same means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your
+guidance, I shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the
+relative distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore
+feet, either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average,
+about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing,
+you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon
+becomes a habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry
+about thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas
+would do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces,
+remove one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of
+bearing, you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of
+hundreds, ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each
+change of bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket
+for your watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this
+important purpose.
+
+<p>"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of
+equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and
+allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You
+may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so
+obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will,
+after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure,
+adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different
+latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find the
+results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the variation
+of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or west, and
+when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with the rate
+of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude.
+You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that
+may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be
+ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of
+reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of the
+flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in a
+small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the
+determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a
+convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the
+accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view,
+without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally
+spread into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as
+a general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any scarcity
+of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more speedily
+accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you would
+cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the west.
+On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have particularly to
+caution you against remaining longer than may be unavoidable there, or,
+indeed, in any one place, in any part of your route, where natives may be
+numerous.
+
+<p>"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it
+will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off angles,
+by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and when so
+returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the route
+and the country may be better described by you, and recognised
+afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on
+trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence
+them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus
+avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the
+Victoria.
+
+<p>"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in
+charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your
+journey.
+
+<p>"I have the honour to be,<br>
+Sir,<br>
+Your obedient servant,</p>
+
+<p>"T. L. MITCHELL,<br>
+SURVEYOR-GENERAL.</p>
+
+<p>"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P.<br>
+Assistant Surveyor,<br>
+Sydney."</p>
+
+<h5>OF THE ABORIGINES.</h5>
+
+<p>There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less
+understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal
+natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity,
+yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and
+judgment to the white men composing my party. Their means of
+subsistence and their habits, are both extremely simple; but they are
+adjusted with admirable fitness to the few resources afforded by such a
+country, in its wild state. What these resources are, and how they are
+economised by the natives, can only be learnt by an extensive
+acquaintance with the interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts,
+bearing on this subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest.
+Fire, grass, kangaroos, and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on
+each other for existence in Australia; for any one of these being wanting,
+the others could no longer continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass,
+and form those open forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo;
+the native applies that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a
+young green crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable
+him to kill or take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of
+long grass also discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females
+and children, who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple
+process, the Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle
+as those of New Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which
+the white men now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the
+kangaroo, which is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony
+where cattle run. The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to
+produce the extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of
+existence; and this must work such extensive changes in Australia as
+never entered into the contemplation of the local authorities. The
+squatters, it is true, have also been obliged to burn the old grass
+occasionally on their runs; but so little has this been understood by the
+Imperial Government that an order against the burning of the grass was
+once sent out, on the representations of a traveller in the south. The
+omission of the annual periodical burning by natives, of the grass and
+young saplings, has already produced in the open forest lands nearest to
+Sydney, thick forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might
+gallop without impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos
+are no longer to be seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither
+are there natives to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there
+amongst the fences of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the
+white race seems thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation
+of the aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any
+adverse feelings these may show towards the white men, that these
+consequences, although so little considered by the intruders, must be
+obvious to the natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter
+on their territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of
+the natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of
+aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors of
+aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race
+has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency
+still more destructive.
+
+<p>It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to
+be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel
+disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle
+or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos
+from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers;
+but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly because
+much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or cattle. No
+orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of these
+atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal obedience to
+injunctions from home, and the policy of the local authorities has not
+been influenced by less humane motives.
+
+<p>It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for
+one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor,
+and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of
+Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth
+Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and
+resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary
+to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback.
+Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of
+all the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and
+quick ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though
+uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards
+the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the
+willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself
+before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean
+in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair,
+always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent
+appearance. He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on
+returning to Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never
+before seen houses, and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the
+theatre, and whatever else was likely to gratify his curiosity.
+The boy was all questions and observation. I was at a loss how to make
+these natives comfortable; or suitably reward their services. The new
+Governor kindly granted the small gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and
+Dicky became a favourite in my family. Both these natives loathed the
+idea of returning to the woods, as savages; and, as if captivated with the
+scenes of activity around them, both expressed a desire "to work and live
+like white men." This shows that, when treated on a footing of equality,
+as these had been in my party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to
+take part in the labours of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old
+freedom of the bush seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts
+them back to it. Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular
+agreement,) as stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and
+he took an affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in
+the country, with the intention of having him educated there with my
+children, provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I
+left the colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate
+an aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children
+should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon which
+the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly tried.
+
+<p>This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much
+interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the married
+couple to another country, where the children might be educated, and
+kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of sending
+such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of Europe,
+where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the grape, fig,
+and olive, as well as the management of other productions of similar
+latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with their
+family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different language
+from those about them, they would be less open to the influences that
+interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony; while
+the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it. Were this
+experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition afforded by
+industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation, and inspire
+them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the white men, which,
+without having some such examples set before them, must seem to them
+unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a degraded position in
+the presence of the white population: a mere outcast, obliged to beg a
+little bread. In his native woods, the "noble savage" knows no such
+degrading necessity.&mdash;All there participate in, and have a share of,
+Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open to all. Experience
+here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of other countries has
+shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as free as Nature first
+made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and come under all
+the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from choice, unless they can
+do so on terms of the most perfect equality. Surely it behoves the nation
+so active in the suppression of slavery to consider betimes, in taking up
+new countries, how the aboriginal races can be preserved; and how the
+evil effects of spirituous liquors, of gunpowder, and of diseases more
+inimical to them than even slavery, may be counteracted.
+
+<h5>OF THE CONVICTS.</h5>
+
+<p>The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring
+parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were
+chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had
+acquired good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on
+this last occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part
+chosen from amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst
+and most irreclaimable of their class.
+
+<p>The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to
+follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous
+surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as
+labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to lay
+the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great
+advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on
+the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of
+war-steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and
+private enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so
+essential to an important harbour, had not the Government always
+possessed the means of cheaply constructing such a work by convict
+labour, and been thus able at any time to have entered into such
+competition as might have been very injurious to a private speculator. At
+Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths, shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work
+in their various avocations; all the shoes, for both the men and horses of
+the expedition, were made there; also one half of the carts, which proved
+equally good as the other portion, although that was made by the best
+maker in the colony, a celebrated man.
+
+<p>The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on
+Cockatoo Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such
+that even the most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts,
+and seemed to wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the
+superintendent. The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of
+good behaviour in the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul
+amongst these prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims
+and pretensions, which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly
+investigated by Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the
+visiting magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at
+length made, after careful examination of the phrenological
+developments and police history of each; and it was not easy to find one
+without a catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office
+annals. Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by
+physical developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party
+from amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful
+Irishmen, on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old
+followers on former journeys, who had become free.
+
+<p>This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to
+behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be
+supposed to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the
+convict character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have
+been made to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year,
+away from all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was
+chiefly because these men were placed in a position where it was so very
+clearly for their own interest to conduct themselves properly.
+Accordingly, the greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the
+highest satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring
+hardships, and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to
+do anything to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still
+there were a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party,
+animated by such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true
+character, nor even disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the
+achievement of their liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as
+the "flash mob." They spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever
+intent on robbing the stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS).
+They held it to be wrong to exert themselves at any work, if it could be
+avoided; and would not be seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation.
+They kept themselves out of sight as much as possible;
+neglected their arms; shot away their ammunition contrary to orders; and
+ate in secret, whatever they did kill, or whatever fish they caught.
+
+<p>Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two
+promising men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of
+them was finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious
+that the men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs
+even, express sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and
+still susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they
+cannot afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence
+against the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys,
+with whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or
+HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever
+"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed
+and more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be
+so arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in
+their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the
+stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded
+by savage tribes in the interior.
+
+<p>Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a
+wide difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen
+flour, refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my
+younger days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life."
+Convicts, in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one,
+fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was
+the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose principle
+of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose reformation,
+there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class, repented of their
+crime from the moment of conviction; those of the other, know no such
+word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing of hope and change;"
+and would eagerly avail himself of every means afforded him to regain
+the position he had lost; the other, true to his "order," will "die game."
+For the separation of the wheat from the chaff, a process by no means
+difficult, the colony of New South Wales was formerly well adapted. The
+ticket of leave granted to the deserving convict was one of the most
+perfect of reformatory indulgences; each individual being known to the
+authorities, and liable, on the least misconduct, to be sent to work on the
+public roads. The colony of New South Wales has been the means of
+restoring many of our unfortunate countrymen to positions in which they
+have shown that loyalty, industry, public spirit, and patriotism, are not
+always to be extinguished in the breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters
+and degradation. It is to be regretted that a more vigilant discrimination
+had not interposed a more marked line between those convicts deserving
+emancipation, and those whose services are still wanted on the roads and
+bridges of the colony.
+
+<h5>OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.</h5>
+
+<p>There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to
+render it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South
+Wales or Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or,
+at least, such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters'
+condition is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country
+without navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to
+uncertain seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social
+intercourse, and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man.
+With equal truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth
+susceptible of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity
+of man. If there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome
+savannas; if there are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of
+forming reservoirs of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain
+may fall, it is certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of
+man alone is wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such
+a clime, and under such a sun, that most important of elements in
+cultivation, water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to
+man's use than it is in other warm regions, where, if the general
+vegetation be more luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water
+for all purposes of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the
+command of art and industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the
+peculiar disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as
+would greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of
+human industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water
+would be found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and
+adjusted, by such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but
+the natural product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural
+resources exist, but require art and industry for their development, the
+field is open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable
+investment of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New
+South Wales.
+
+<p>But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too
+much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet
+adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying and
+adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which
+deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been
+corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the natural
+fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in
+favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable,
+perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for
+that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the structure
+of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a small number
+of these might be made to retain as much of the surface water as might
+even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because the channels of
+rivers are in general confined by high banks, within which many, or
+indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into canals. To
+such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied, had it
+been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to work
+together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere facilities for
+constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill, and thus afford
+means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not labour now too
+scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in a manner suitable
+to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation.
+
+<p>The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which
+supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well
+adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour, nothing
+could prevent these regions from being made extensively productive of
+both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to be ascertained
+whether some parts of the country may not be made as productive as
+Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of latitude, in the opposite
+hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the development of every
+branch of production derivable from industry in these regions.
+
+<p>[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the Society
+of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever produced, I believe,
+in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid, superintendent of the Botanic
+garden at Sydney, from olives grown there, and seemed very clear and
+good.]
+
+<p>Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and
+upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior
+quality; and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these
+districts and the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict
+labour, the progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and
+climate, and, as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had
+been much more advanced than it is there.
+
+<p>The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be
+opened, have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is,
+therefore, the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible
+introduction of railways with much interest. In a country like that around
+Sydney, where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by
+roads in order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the
+value and importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and
+calculations have been made to show that a railway between Sydney and
+the southern districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along
+that line. The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open
+undulating country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly
+growing into importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway,
+between that town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive
+tracts of valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a
+sort of centre.
+
+<p>On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best
+lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has,
+of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the rural
+districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals who
+had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the assistance
+of settlers in the country.</p>
+
+<h5>CONCLUSION.</h5>
+
+<p>The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years
+ago, a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The
+location of settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms,
+then much in arrear, and the division of the territory into counties,
+hundreds, and parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to
+settlers, altogether rendered necessary a general survey of the colony,
+which work I commenced in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal
+Instructions, sent to the colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827
+and 1837 was the most prosperous in the history of the colony of New
+South Wales, when convicts made good roads, farms were measured up,
+and the country was surveyed and divided into countries. Colonization
+extended rapidly to the shores of the southern ocean, and Australia Felix
+was made known to the British public.
+
+<p>The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the
+direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent,
+however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate
+tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole
+intervening country. My plans of exploration have been governed by
+these views and objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was
+intended to complete the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One
+led across the Blue mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far
+as the land seemed worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia
+Felix and the southern coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to
+the northern shores at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria,&mdash;from which I trust that by this time my assistant Mr.
+Kennedy will have returned to Sydney.
+
+<p>Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a
+duty[*], I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan
+which must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled
+me to bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years,
+and in the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at
+the command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British
+Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the
+benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that
+this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the
+petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly
+at the expense of the colony of New South Wales.
+
+<p>[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.]
+
+<p>It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words,
+to point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be
+available for the economical extension of that colonisation which the
+expansive energies of this great nation seem to require. New South
+Wales may be benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional
+market on the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was
+necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most
+eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast.
+It is now ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements
+from the open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25°
+south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table
+Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;&mdash;a country
+but lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy
+access to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the
+intervention of any such formidable barrier between that interior open
+country and the coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony.
+Precisely on that part of the coast, to which the united channels of the
+water lead, a harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent
+naval officers. These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to
+define one situation more favourable than any other that might be found
+along that coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide
+almost equally the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I
+allude to Port Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has
+been (I believe) called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of
+the coast, at the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to
+steam navigation. The occupation of the fine country on the rivers
+Victoria, Salvator and Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for
+supplies; and on the occupation of that back-country must again, in a
+great measure, depend the establishment of a direct line of
+communication between Sydney and the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+<p>At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of
+route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon
+require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a
+commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which
+might, by degrees, become an important town; where horses might be
+shipped and conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards
+of Torres Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible
+description by Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's
+Island, being both higher than the main land, might be connected with it,
+by some permanent work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and
+shelter and anchorage for other ships. According to the interesting
+narrative of Captain Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and
+convict labour might there be very usefully employed upon such works.
+The head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian
+Ocean nearest to Sydney, has appeared of more importance to the
+colonists, since steam navigation became regular between England and
+the Indian archipelago. Then it became more desirable for the colonists
+to know the nature of the interior country between their capital and that
+northern coast. The interior has been found very open and accessible; the
+fine country at the head of the Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus
+divide the whole distance into two equal parts, each of these not much
+exceeding the distance between Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia
+Felix; between which places mail-carriages now run twice a week.
+Thus, while, by the extension of geographical research, the proper
+fields for colonization are laid open for selection, and prepared for timely
+arrangements on the part of the Imperial Government; the colonists of
+New South Wales have promoted the general interests of their fellow
+subjects at home, by the developement of the resources of the territory
+around them.
+
+<p>He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed
+the earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two
+elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the East
+Coast range&mdash;the one affording the nearest access to an important sea,
+the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with deference to
+Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through the
+Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive names
+on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the
+country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25° South, where nature
+has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia, the
+country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian archipelago;
+which two regions may be made conterminous according to natural
+limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-29"></a><img alt="" src="images/trop-29.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="appendix"></a>
+<h4>APPENDIX.</h4>
+
+<p>The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales.<br>
+No. 30/1252.<br>
+Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.</p>
+
+<p>Sir,
+
+<p>I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to
+inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been
+pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the
+office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of
+the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their
+duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who, with
+the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all
+arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.</p>
+
+<p>I have the honour to be,<br>
+Sir,<br>
+Your most obedient servant,</p>
+
+<p>ALEX. M'LEAY.
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire,<br>
+Surveyor-General.
+
+<p>* * * * *</p>
+
+<h4>A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING JOURNEY.</h4>
+
+<p>THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW.
+
+<p>[numerals refer to page numbers in the book]
+
+<pre>
+FERNS.
+
+Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212.
+&mdash;&mdash;assimile, 204. 212.
+Nothochlaena distans, 212.
+Grammitis rutaefolia, 212.
+Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212.
+Doodia caudata, 212.
+Platyzoma microphyllum, 236.
+
+
+GRASSES.
+
+Aristida calycina, 33.
+Arundo Phragmites, 124.
+* Anthistiria membranacea, LINDL. 88.
+&mdash;&mdash;australis PASSIM.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 97.
+Andropogon sericeus, 62.
+&mdash;&mdash;bombycinus, 378.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 117.
+Bromus australis, 61.
+* Chloris selerantha, LINDL. 31.
+&mdash;&mdash;acicularis LINDL. 33.
+Dactyloctenium radulans, 88.
+Danthonia pectinata, 319.
+&mdash;&mdash;* triticoides LINDL. 365.
+Erianthus, fulvo aff. 62.
+Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349.
+Lappago biflora, 364.
+Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33.
+Perotis rara, 139.
+Panicum laevinode 60. AND PASSIM.
+Pappophorum gracile, 319.
+&mdash;&mdash;* avenaceum LINDL. 320.
+&mdash;&mdash;* virens, LINDL. 360.
+&mdash;&mdash;* flavescens, LINDL. 34.
+* Stipa scabra, LINDL. 31.
+* Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187.
+Triodia pungens, 177. 340.
+Triraphis mollis, 88.
+
+
+SEDGES.
+
+Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 120.
+Kyllinga monocephala, 100.
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS.
+
+Damasonium ovalifolium, 31.
+Xerotes laxa, 361.
+&mdash;&mdash;leucocephala, 198.
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378.
+* Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3
+Commelina undulata, 347.
+Thysanotus elatior, 347.
+Tricoryne elatior, 387.
+Laxmannia gracilis, 365.
+Dianella rara, 366.
+&mdash;&mdash;strumosa, 341.
+
+
+GYMNOGENS.
+Zamia, 209.
+Callitris sp. n. 187.
+&mdash;&mdash;glauca, 298.
+&mdash;&mdash;pyramidalis, 93.
+
+
+SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE).
+
+* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371.
+&mdash;&mdash;* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124.
+Beyeria, sp. n. 390.
+Bertya oleaefolia, 290.
+Euphorbia hypericifolia? 265.
+&mdash;&mdash;* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348.
+Hylococcus sericeus, 389.
+* Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342.
+Phyllanthus simplex? 106.
+
+
+CUCURBITS.
+
+Cucumis pubescens, 110.
+
+
+BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE).
+
+* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383.
+
+
+FRANKENIADS.
+
+* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305.
+&mdash;&mdash;* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305.
+
+
+CAPPARIDS.
+
+* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257.
+&mdash;&mdash;* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220.
+&mdash;&mdash;lasiantha, 102.
+&mdash;&mdash;Mitchellii, 36.
+Cleome flava, 127.
+
+
+STERCULIADS.
+
+Brachychiton populneum, 355.
+* Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155.
+
+
+BYTTNEBIADS.
+
+* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+
+MALLOWWORTS.
+
+Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260.
+&mdash;&mdash;* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363.
+Fugosia digitata? 387.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 64.
+Malva ovata, 397.
+* Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368.
+&mdash;&mdash;pisiformis, 362.
+&mdash;&mdash;* virgata, HOOKER, 361.
+&mdash;&mdash;filiformis, A. CUNN. 361.
+&mdash;&mdash;tubulosa, CUNN. 390.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. n. 103.
+
+
+LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE).
+
+Grewia Richardiana, 383.
+
+
+MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE).
+
+* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342.
+
+
+SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE).
+
+Thouinia australis, 390.
+* Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273.
+&mdash;&mdash;* filifolia, HOOKER, 241.
+&mdash;&mdash;* hirtella, 191.
+&mdash;&mdash;* mollis, LINDL. 212.
+&mdash;&mdash;* peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361.
+&mdash;&mdash;* pubescens, LINDL. 342.
+&mdash;&mdash;* tenuifolia, LINDL. 248.
+&mdash;&mdash;* trigona, LINDL. 236.
+&mdash;&mdash;* triangularis, 219.
+&mdash;&mdash;* vestita, HOOKER, 265.
+
+
+DILLENIADS.
+
+Pleurandra ericifolia, 362.
+&mdash;&mdash;* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363.
+Hibbertia canescens, 339.
+
+
+CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE).
+
+Clematis stenophylla, 368.
+Ranunculus plebeius, 362.
+&mdash;&mdash;sessiliflorus, 361.
+
+
+PITTOSPORADS.
+
+* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224.
+* Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97.
+&mdash;&mdash;lanceolatum, 272.
+
+
+EPACRIDS.
+
+Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226.
+
+
+CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE).
+
+* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353.
+
+
+RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE).
+
+* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225.
+&mdash;&mdash;* eriantha, LINDL. 298.
+* Eriostemon rhombeum, LINDL. 293.
+* Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102.
+&mdash;&mdash;* latifolia, LINDL. 236.
+&mdash;&mdash;* pendula, LINDL. 251.
+Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398.
+* Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347.
+* Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199.
+* Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339.
+
+
+CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE).
+
+Geranium parviflorum? 362.
+Erodium littoreum? 360.
+
+
+PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE).
+
+* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148.
+&mdash;&mdash;* pusilla, LINDL. 360.
+
+
+BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE).
+
+Polygonum acre, 149.
+&mdash;&mdash;junceum, 85.
+
+
+NYCTAGOS.
+
+Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362.
+
+
+AMARANTHS.
+
+Amaranthus undulatus, 102.
+Alternanthera nodiflora, 35.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 341.
+Nyssanthes? 360.
+* Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45.
+&mdash;&mdash;Janatum, 33. 88.
+&mdash;&mdash;* conicum, LINDL. 363.
+&mdash;&mdash;fusiforme, 383.
+&mdash;&mdash;alopecuroideum, 88. 91.
+
+
+CHENOPODS.
+
+Ambrina carinata, 127.
+* Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64.
+&mdash;&mdash;elaeagnoides, 29
+Atriplex semibaccata, 23.
+* Chenopodium auricomum, LINDL. 94.
+Enchylaena tomentosa, 102.
+Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67.
+&mdash;&mdash;* thymifolia, LINDL. 56.
+&mdash;&mdash;* lanosa, LINDL. 88.
+&mdash;&mdash;* villosa, LINDL. 91.
+Rhagodia parabolica, 53.
+Salsola australis, 24, etc.
+Seleroaena uniflora, 72.
+* Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239.
+
+
+FICOIDS.
+
+Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315.
+
+
+DAPHNADS.
+
+Pimelea linifolia? 340.
+&mdash;&mdash;* trichostachya, LINDL. 355.
+&mdash;&mdash;colorans, 362.
+Exocarpus aphylla, 118.
+&mdash;&mdash;spartea, 135.
+
+
+PROTEADS.
+
+* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342.
+* Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER, 265.
+&mdash;&mdash;* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+&mdash;&mdash;floribunda, 212.
+&mdash;&mdash;* longistyla, HOOKER, 343.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 276.
+* Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397.
+&mdash;&mdash;* purpurea, HOOKER, 348.
+
+
+DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE).
+
+Cassytha pubescens, 362.
+
+
+LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.
+
+Acacia conferta, 174. 289.
+&mdash;&mdash;Cunninghamii, 204.
+&mdash;&mdash;doratoxylon, 289.
+&mdash;&mdash;delibrata, 258.
+&mdash;&mdash;decora, 359. var. 223.
+&mdash;&mdash;* excelsa, BENTH. 225.
+&mdash;&mdash;Farnesiana, 256.
+&mdash;&mdash;falcata, 221.
+Acacia holosericea, 256.
+&mdash;&mdash;Simsii, 256.
+&mdash;&mdash;leucadendron, 258.
+&mdash;&mdash;* longespicata, BENTH. 298.
+&mdash;&mdash;ixiophylla, 204.
+&mdash;&mdash;leptoclada, var. 95.
+&mdash;&mdash;* macradenia, BENTH. 360.
+&mdash;&mdash;neriifolia, 386.
+&mdash;&mdash;pendula, PASSIM.
+&mdash;&mdash;pennifolia, 361.
+&mdash;&mdash;podalyriifolia, 221.
+&mdash;&mdash;* pinifolia, BENTH. 342.
+&mdash;&mdash;stenophylla, 81.
+&mdash;&mdash;spectabilis, 353.
+&mdash;&mdash;salicina, 56.
+&mdash;&mdash;triptera, 291.
+&mdash;&mdash;* varians, BENTH. 132.
+&mdash;&mdash;* Victoriae, BENTH. 333.
+&mdash;&mdash;* uncifera, BENTH. 341.
+&mdash;&mdash;viscidula, 340.
+* Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236.
+* Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH. 290.
+&mdash;&mdash;rhombifolia, 294.
+* Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384.
+&mdash;&mdash;* coronilloides, CUNN. 384.
+&mdash;&mdash;* zygophylla, BENTH. 288.
+&mdash;&mdash;sophera, 390.
+&mdash;&mdash;occidentalis, 378.
+&mdash;&mdash;heteroloba, 251.
+* Crotalaria dissitiflora, BENTH. 386.
+&mdash;&mdash;* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120.
+* Cyclogyne swainsonioides, BENTH. 397.
+* Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363.
+* Erythrina vespertilio, BENTH. 218.
+* Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348.
+Hardenbergia monophylla, 236.
+Hovea lanceolata, 212.
+&mdash;&mdash;* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289.
+* Indigofera brevidens, BENTH. 385.
+&mdash;&mdash;hirsuta, 122.
+* Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH. 258.
+&mdash;&mdash;scoparia, 339.
+* Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365.
+Labichea rupestris, BENTH. 342.
+* Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273.
+* Leptocyamus latifolius, BENTH. 361.
+* Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62.
+&mdash;&mdash;australis, var. 348.
+Neptunia gracilis, 362.
+* Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131.
+Sesbania aculeata? 106.
+* Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363.
+Vigna, an capensis? 339.
+&mdash;&mdash;* lanceolata, BENTH. 350.
+&mdash;&mdash;* suberecta, BENTH. 388.
+
+
+ROSEWORTS.
+
+Rubus parvifolius, 351.
+
+
+LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE).
+
+Lythrum Salicaria, 62.
+
+
+RHAMNADS.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, 201.
+Cryptandra propinqua, 223.
+* Ventilago viminalis, HOOKER, 369.
+
+
+SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE).
+
+* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387.
+* Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+
+STACKHOUSIADS.
+
+Stackhousia muricata, 362.
+
+
+DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE).
+
+Carissa ovata, 393.
+Tabernaemontana, sp. 341.
+* Doobàh, 85.
+
+
+LOGANIADS.
+
+* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+
+GENTIANWORTS.
+
+Erythraea australis, 366.
+
+
+OLIVEWORTS.
+
+Notclaea punctata, 352.
+
+
+NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE).
+
+Nicotiana suaveolens, 64.
+Solanum ellipticum, 215.
+&mdash;&mdash;furfuraceum, 212.
+&mdash;&mdash;biflorum, 362.
+&mdash;&mdash;violaceum, 365.
+&mdash;&mdash;sp. 85.
+
+
+BINDWEEDS.
+
+* Polymeria longifolia, 398.
+Convolvulus erubescens, 353.
+Evolvulus, sericeo aff., 386.
+&mdash;&mdash;linifolius, 339.
+
+
+LEADWORTS.
+
+Plumbago zeylanica, 219.
+
+
+RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE).
+
+Plantago varia, 352.
+
+
+JASMINWORTS.
+
+* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355.
+&mdash;&mdash;lineare, 94.
+&mdash;&mdash;* Mitchellii, LINDL. 365.
+
+
+EHRETIADS.
+
+Halgania, sp. 24.
+
+
+BORAGEWORTS.
+
+* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258.
+
+
+BRUNONIADS.
+
+Brunonia sericea, 341.
+&mdash;&mdash;simplex? 360.
+&mdash;&mdash;* simplex, LINDL. 82.
+
+
+LABIATES.
+
+Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347.
+* Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362.
+Moschosma polystachya, 137.
+Plectranthus parviflorus, 347.
+* Prostanthera odoratissima, BENTH., 291.
+&mdash;&mdash;* ringens, BENTH., 363.
+&mdash;&mdash;* euphrasioides, BENTH., 360.
+Teucrium recemosum, 31.
+&mdash;&mdash;argutum, 198.
+Salvia plebeia, 366.
+
+
+VERBENES.
+
+Chloanthes stoechadis, 298.
+Vitex, sp. n., 212.
+
+
+MYOPORADS.
+
+* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31.
+* Myoporum dulce, 253.
+&mdash;&mdash;Cunninghamii, 214.
+* Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273.
+&mdash;&mdash;* salicinus, BENTH., 251.
+&mdash;&mdash;* curvipes, BENTH., 221.
+&mdash;&mdash;* bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386.
+
+
+BIGNONIADS.
+
+Tecoma Oxleyi, 291.
+
+
+ACANTHADS.
+
+Justicia media, 31. 89. 361.
+&mdash;&mdash;ascendens, 97.
+Ruellia australis, 353.
+
+
+FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE).
+
+Morgania floribunda, 62. 384.
+Veronica plebeia, 360.
+
+
+GOODENIADS.
+
+Dampiera adpressa, 339.
+Goodenia pulchella, 339.
+&mdash;&mdash;* flagellifera, DE VRIESE, 378.
+&mdash;&mdash;coronopifolia, 359.
+&mdash;&mdash;geniculata, 72.
+* Linschotenia bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345.
+* Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258.
+
+
+COMPOSITES.
+
+Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62.
+* Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75.
+&mdash;&mdash;cuneifolia, 28.
+* Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378.
+* Eurybia subspicata, HOOKER, 293.
+Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359.
+Erechthites arguta, 225.
+* Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62.
+* Flaveria australasica, HOOKER, 118.
+Helichrysum bracteatum, 79.
+&mdash;&mdash;* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83.
+&mdash;&mdash;semipapposum, 389.
+&mdash;&mdash;odorum? 362.
+Helipteres anthemoides, 349.
+&mdash;&mdash;* glutinosa, HOOK., 361.
+Minuria heterophylla, 64.
+Monenteles redolens, 263.
+* Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353.
+Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347.
+Podolepis acuminata? 289.
+&mdash;&mdash;rugata? 362.
+&mdash;&mdash;longipedunculata, 362.
+Pycnosorus globosus, 353.
+Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78.
+&mdash;&mdash;* arachnoidea, HOOK., 341.
+Senecio carnosulus? 360.
+&mdash;&mdash;Cunninghami, 45.
+&mdash;&mdash;brachylaenus, 62.
+Sphaeranthus hirtus 212.
+
+
+HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA).
+
+* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306.
+&mdash;&mdash;* glauca, LINDL., 91.
+* Myriophyllum verrucosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+
+MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE).
+
+Angophora lanceolata, 81.
+* Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235.
+Eucalyptus sideroxylon, 339.
+&mdash;&mdash;* acuminatus, HOOK. 390.
+Eucalyptus pulverulento aff. 91.
+&mdash;&mdash;* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235.
+&mdash;&mdash;* citriodorus, HOOKER, 235.
+&mdash;&mdash;* populifolius, HOOKER, 204.
+&mdash;&mdash;bicolor, 390.
+&mdash;&mdash;* viminalis, HOOKER, 157.
+* Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298.
+* Melaleuca trichostachya, LINDL. 277.
+&mdash;&mdash;* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262.
+Schidiomyrtus tenellus, 340.
+* Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198.
+
+
+CINCHONADS.
+
+Canthium sp. 386.
+&mdash;&mdash;* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397.
+Pomax hirta, 340.
+
+
+STELLATES.
+
+Asperula? 360.
+
+
+UMBELLIFERS.
+
+Actinotus Helianthi, 345.
+Daucus brachiatus, 235.
+Didiscus pilosus, 593.
+
+
+SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE).
+
+Fusanus acuminatus, 105.
+Santalum oblongatum 101.
+
+
+LORANTHS.
+
+* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102.
+&mdash;&mdash;* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101.
+&mdash;&mdash;* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224.
+&mdash;&mdash;* nutans, CUNN. 158.
+
+</pre>
+
+<p>[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-long)
+on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).]
+
+<p>LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848.
+<br>
+<hr>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the
+Interior of Tropical Australia In Search of a Route from Sydney to the
+Gulf of Carpentaria (1848) by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L.
+(1792-1855) Surveyor-General of New South Wales, by Thomas Mitchell
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ***
+
+***** This file should be named 9943-h.htm or 9943-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/9/9/4/9943/
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@@ -0,0 +1,12438 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior
+of Tropical Australia In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria (1848) by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L.
+(1792-1855) Surveyor-General of New South Wales, by Thomas Mitchell
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848) by
+Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+Author: Thomas Mitchell
+
+Release Date: August 28, 2004 [EBook #9943]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+Notes in the book are shown in square brackets at the point referenced.
+
+Maps and plates not shown in the text version of this ebook
+
+
+=======================================================================
+
+
+Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
+
+by
+
+Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TO
+THE HONOURABLE
+THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS
+OF THE
+LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW  SOUTH WALES,
+THIS JOURNAL
+OF
+AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,
+PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,
+AND
+UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,
+IS
+DEDICATED
+BY
+THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,
+HUMBLE SERVANT,
+T. L. MITCHELL
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the
+most attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of
+Australia. There the philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the
+poet for original studies and ideas; the naturalist for additional
+knowledge; and the historian might begin at a beginning. The traveller
+there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, or towers; but he
+is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of healthful
+progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
+Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions
+still unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now
+that the rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most
+deserving people on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved
+by the Almighty for their use.
+
+In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early
+period between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known
+to the ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--
+
+"Communemque prius, ceu lumina solis et auras, Cautus humum longo
+signavit limite mensor." [* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]
+
+The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
+arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
+internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and
+the north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the
+last twenty years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to
+bring under the notice of men of science some of the earth's productions
+hitherto unknown. He cannot sufficiently express his sense of obligation
+in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and
+Professor De Vriese, for supplying the botanical matter and notes
+contained in this volume, and thus contributing to the general stock of
+human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that during the
+long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
+register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst
+of his important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison
+of minute details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
+
+The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in
+its accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of
+latitude; trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever
+heights were available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route.
+This route was connected, at its commencement and termination, with the
+trigonometrical survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a
+survey extending two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of
+his intersections with that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could
+not but be very satisfactory to the author.
+
+The geological specimens collected during this journey have been
+deposited in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on
+the maps by the numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be
+available to geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science,
+the fossils now brought from these remote regions will be accessible at
+any future time, and something known of the geology as well as of the
+geography of the interior. As Professor Forbes most readily undertook to
+describe the freshwater shells after the work had passed through the
+press, that portion of the collection also has thus been brought under
+the notice of geologists.
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+GENERAL MAP
+
+Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord
+Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--
+Scattered population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of
+sheep on cattle runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--
+Sulphureous springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan.
+Leave Bultje's country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between
+the squatters and the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of
+young bullocks.--Richard Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night
+without water.--Distress from heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion
+of the party.--Melancholy fate of the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants
+discovered.--Encampment at Mudaa.--Carry water forward.--Arrive at
+Darobal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelego.--Discovery of a lagoon.--Encamp
+near Canbelego. Explore the Bogan in search of water.--Long ride.--Quit
+the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE
+
+Move to the ponds of Cannonba.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's
+intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of
+weather.--A day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt
+plant.--Reconnoitre Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach
+of a flood announced.--It arrives in clear moonlight.--(Frontispiece.)--
+Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering cattle.--(Plate 2. p.
+61.) A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the
+Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds
+destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to
+modern names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of
+the Macquarie and Barwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--
+Admirable distribution of water. The ford at Wyabry.--The party crosses
+the Darling
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--
+SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.
+
+Plains and low hills.--The Carawy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The
+Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--
+During the delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the
+Narran.--New plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their
+passage.--The party fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills
+examined.--Good grassy country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west
+of the river.--Ride up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley
+with a native.--Gravelly ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--
+Approach the assembled natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial
+reception.--Cross the Balonne.--Reach the Culgoa.--Cross that river.--
+Route beyond.--The Upper Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on
+trees.--A native scamp.--Fine country.--Splendid reaches of the river
+(Plate 3. page 119.)--Lagoons near it.--Lake Parachute.--Seek a
+position--for a depot camp.--Ride to the north-west.--Character of the
+country.--Search for water. Uncommon birds.--Return to the camp.--New
+Acacia
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANOA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE
+PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--
+Trace one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore
+it.--Fine country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small
+tributary.--Mountains discovered.--Camp visited by three
+natives.--"Cogoon" the name of tributary.--Charms of the Australian
+climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme cold.--Traces of high floods in the
+Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--
+Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel
+due north over open downs.--Advantages of mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount
+Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party advances to the Amby--followed
+by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter the country through the
+pass.--Find one pond.--A large river discovered.--Position taken up on
+its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore to the north-
+west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior country
+visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to
+trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--
+Native visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The
+Tagando tribe again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance
+again with a light party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE,
+ AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--
+Ride north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party
+crosses Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the
+north-west.--Banks of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards
+it.--Flank movement to the Maranoa for water.--None found in its bed.--
+View from Mount Owen.--Names of localities on the map.--Scarcity of water
+impedes our progress.--Water found in rocky gullies.--Excursion
+northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern summit of Mount Owen.--
+Progress through a broken country.--Night without water.--Another route
+explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount Owen.--Route for
+the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount P. P. King.--
+View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount Faraday.--
+Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the camp.--
+The party with the carts advances.--(Pyramids, Plate IV., page 222.)--
+Course of the new found river.--New plants.--A large lake receives the
+river.--(Plate V., John Martin's Range, page 225.)--The outlet dry.--
+Enter a scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich
+soil on the downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river.
+Fossil wood.--Again shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a
+gully.--Balmy Creek.--New plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower
+Almond.--(Pl. 6. page 237.)--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount
+Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,
+
+Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate
+and country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the
+water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--
+Causes of the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river
+channel from the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much
+increased.--Long journey through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the
+river bank.--Character of this river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--
+Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach the river by moonlight.--Large
+lagoons.--New tributary--from the S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night
+without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp visited by natives during
+my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party crosses the river.--
+Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the natives.--The
+shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable
+production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--
+Singular meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--
+Recross the Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable
+tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to
+explore a river in brigalow.--A more direct way homewards.--Successful
+passage with carts and drays.--Open downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the
+Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the Salvator.--Position taken up for
+a depot camp.--Interesting plants.--(View on the Salvator, Pl. 8.)
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189.)
+
+Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three
+volcanic hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--
+The Nive and the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found,
+after a night of thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--
+Morning view from a rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open
+downs.--Brigalow scrubs away from the river.--River much increased.--
+Security from natives--Thoughts in these solitudes.--The downs and the
+river.--An emu shot there.--A river joins from the east.--Structure of
+native's huts.--Two separate channels unite.--The river well filled.--
+Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--
+surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and return homewards.--The
+savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the S. W.--Short cut along
+the left bank of the river.--Name it the Victoria.--Privations in
+exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by a snake.--
+Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp of
+the pyramids.--Rare and new plants  collected there.--(View of Lindley's
+Range, Pl. 9.)
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189., and Map IV., Page 133.)
+
+Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount
+Faraday.--Valley of the Warrego.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp
+over the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranoa.--The river found to be near our
+former track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle
+tracks.--Arrival at the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--
+during our absence.--(Pl. 7. ABORIGINAL DANCE, page 358).--Plants
+gathered at the depot camp.--New plants.--Fossils at Mount Sowerby.--
+Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the depot camp following the
+course of the Maranoa.--Discovery of a fine open country.--Numbered trees
+at camps.--The country on the Maranoa.--Singular habits of a fish.--Name
+of river obtained from good authority.--(Pl. 10. VIEW ON THE MARANOA,
+page 372).--The Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at length
+discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive at
+the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+(Having reference to Map III., Page 81.)
+
+(VIEW OF ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, Pl. 11)--Despatches sent forward.--
+Acquisitions during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The
+party crosses the Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle
+stations.--Heavy rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a
+hill.--Dam thrown up.--The waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival
+at the Barwan.--A flood.--(Pl. 12. LAST USE OF THE BOATS, page 395).--
+Cross the Maal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount
+Riddell recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A
+stockman.--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of the
+Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire,
+kangaroos, and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--
+Experiment worth trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the
+party.--Of convicts generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--
+capabilities of soil and climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division
+and appropriation of the territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india
+
+MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA   Page 430
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--
+Letter, dated 28th October, 1830
+
+Systematical List of Plants
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+[Not included in the text-file version of this eBook]
+
+Flood coming down the Macquarie (pl. 1. p. 58) Map I. The Indian
+Archipelago Portrait of Bultje Remnant of the Bogan tribe Map II. The
+Rivers Bogan and Macquarie First use of the boats (pl. 2) Map III. The
+Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also
+the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon Separation of the Balonne
+into the Culgoa, Narran, &c. The River Balonne, 7th April (pl. 3) Map IV.
+Advance to the Maranoa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge The
+Bottle tree, DELABECHEA The black awaiting the white Map V. The country
+and the routes between the Maranoa and Mount Mudge, and those along the
+River Victoria Tree without branches The Pyramids (pl. 4) Martin's Range
+(pl. 5) Tower Almond (pl. 6) Map VI. The River Belyando Missile club of
+natives of Central Australia Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?) The River
+Salvator, 5th Sept. (pl. 8) Lindley's Range (pl. 9) Old native female
+Aboriginal dance (pl. 7) View on the River Maranoa (pl. 10) Acacia
+VARIANS St. Georgia's Bridge (pl. 11) Last use of the boats (pl. 12) Map
+VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries
+
+* * * * *
+
+JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.
+
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
+STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED
+POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM SYDNEY.--A
+SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET AN OLD
+ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN RIVER.--
+YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY OF WATER.--
+THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY FATE OF THE
+BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER FORWARD.--
+DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS DIE FROM
+THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, BY MOVING
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBA.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH THE PARTY.
+
+The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
+first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
+entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
+part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
+development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The same
+direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the Royal
+Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a committee of
+the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most desirable to pursue
+at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony from distress
+found favour with the public.
+
+At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
+islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
+industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
+themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,
+
+"Which mock'd their scant manurings, and requir'd MORE HANDS THAN THEIRS
+to prune their wanton growth."
+
+The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, "al
+nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," seemed
+to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the wayward
+fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern extremity
+of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis incognita."
+The character of the interior of that country still remained unknown, the
+largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere exploration, the
+colonists of New South Wales might not have been very anxious just at
+that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical knowledge could
+be combined with that of exploring a route towards the nearest part of
+the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, it was easy to awaken
+the attention of the Australian public to the importance of such an
+enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount the Indian cavalry had
+commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of Torres Straits had been
+injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided by any overland route
+from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
+South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
+shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with England
+by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by land, was
+an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In short, the
+commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the direct road
+home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the discovery of a
+good overland route between Sydney and the head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be introduced
+from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
+
+In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
+the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to
+the settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-ile forming the furthest
+point of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
+therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that of
+the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a considerable
+river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
+submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
+His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
+reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
+should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
+Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more money
+than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards the expense
+of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. His
+Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
+the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
+still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
+to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
+interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
+which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
+despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
+and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six persons
+who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not been heard
+of, and were supposed to have either perished or been destroyed by
+natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from Port
+Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
+shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
+
+The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, favourable
+to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still declined to
+allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any reason for
+keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it became known
+in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, with the express
+sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring expedition from Adelaide
+into the northern interior of Australia, and that he was actually then in
+New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had expressed, in one of his early
+despatches to the British Government, his readiness to encourage such an
+undertaking as that, and stated that "no one came forward to claim the
+honour of such an enterprise;" yet now that Lord Stanley had sanctioned
+the plan of the Surveyor General, whose duty it was to survey the
+country, he refused to allow this officer to proceed. The Legislative
+Council, however, renewed the petition for this undertaking, to which the
+Governor at length assented, in 1845; and the sum of 2000L. was
+unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but with the clear
+understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of the Surveyor
+General should be adopted.
+
+The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. The
+journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report that a
+large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
+accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
+still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first
+papers published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
+suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
+Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by a
+map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
+
+In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
+land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
+bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
+preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
+greater number of men, were considered objections; while many experienced
+persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more enduring than
+horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] Eight
+drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: four
+of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
+Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two
+parts, on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party
+moved off from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.
+
+I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having rode
+there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following Monday,
+15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior. The
+Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:--
+
+SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.
+EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command. W.
+STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural
+History. PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes. Charles Niblett, William Graham,
+ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper. WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.
+John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper. Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers. Edward
+Taylor, William Bond, William Mortimer, George Allcot, John Slater,
+Richard Horton, Felix Maguire, James Stephens, Carpenters. Job Stanley,
+Edward Wilson, Blacksmith. George Fowkes, Shoemaker. John Douglas,
+Barometer carrier. Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman. Andrew Higgs,
+Chainman. William Hunter, With the horses. Thomas Smith, Patrick Travers,
+Carter and Pioneer. Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher. Arthur Bristol,
+Sailmaker and Sailor.
+
+8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3
+light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was
+provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the
+party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest
+consisted of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.
+
+With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the party
+consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,
+with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so
+powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,
+from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely
+on their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the
+face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of
+the old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp
+arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly
+forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of
+discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a
+party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and
+it was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as
+mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the same
+kind of authority could not be exercised.
+
+Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former line
+of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived at
+Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same chain
+of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named Dochendoras
+Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds. These ponds had
+been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the 9th December--the
+day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had been clear and sultry.
+A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day, levelled part of the forest
+near this place, laying prostrate the largest trees, one side of which
+was completely barked by the hailstones. Many branches of trees along the
+line of route, showed that the wind had been very violent to a
+considerable distance.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,
+therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the
+chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and
+difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing,
+chiefly to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to
+have taken, but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays
+before my arrival at the camp.
+
+We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that
+Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a
+gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all
+sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which
+may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,
+or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot, although
+previously unknown in these regions.
+
+17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 A.M. and travelled along a good road, for
+about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of ponds,
+following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called
+Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we
+finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We
+had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but
+everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a
+blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of
+rain, it had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the
+Macquarie.
+
+Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared with
+a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper. She
+had been there two years, and only complained that they had never been
+able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to
+leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they
+should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,
+and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found
+work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very
+little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied
+sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His
+conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his
+family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been obliged
+to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man
+neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under
+the new regulations.
+
+"So you saw no more of them?"
+
+"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them AFTER THEY HAD BEEN SOLD AT THE
+POUND!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small family of
+children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could have kept
+my cows."
+
+This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked along,
+for he was one of the race--
+
+"Who march to death with military glee."
+
+But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the
+hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the
+desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the
+DISJECTA MEMBRA of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left to
+the people themselves in a new colony.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 A.M., and continued along a
+tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek, in which
+there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the good beaten
+road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left, which brought
+us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds, three miles
+higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to encamp here, I
+pursued the road south-westward along the chain of ponds, anxious to
+ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily to the westward
+of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of route to the Bogan.
+At about five miles I found an excellent opening through which the road
+passed on ground almost level. Having ascended a small eminence on the
+right, I fell in with some natives with spears, who seemed to recognise
+me, by pointing to my old line of route, and saying, "Majy Majy" (Major
+Mitchell). I little thought then that this was already an outlying
+picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe my party. The day
+was hot, therm. 97 deg. in the shade. The chain of ponds, there called "the
+Little River," contained water in abundance, and was said to flow into
+the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but few sources in
+Hervey's Range.
+
+The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard, and had
+been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now a sheep
+station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a mile and a
+half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country suitable
+for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment of sheep
+on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as where
+sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where cattle
+would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter
+description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The
+plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive
+pasturage in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to
+inundations to be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this
+description lies on the interior side of the ranges, as far as I have
+examined them. It is watered by the sources of the rivers Goulburn,
+Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee, Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh,
+Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and Darling; on which rivers the runs will always
+make cattle fat. There are two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there
+is something salsolaceous in the herbage also on which cattle thrive so
+well; and the open plains and muddy waterholes are their delight.
+Excessive drought, however, may occasionally reduce the owners of such
+stock to great extremities, and subject them to serious loss. The Acacia
+pendula, a tree whose HABITAT is limited and remarkable, is much relished
+by the cattle. It is found only in clay soils, on the borders of plains,
+which are occasionally so saturated with water as to be quite impassable;
+never on higher ground nor on any lower than that limited sort of
+locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers which at some seasons overflow.
+In such situations, even where grass seems very scarce, cattle get fat;
+and it is a practice of stockmen to cut down the Acacia pendula (or Myall
+trees, as they call them) for the cattle to feed on.
+
+At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual who
+had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of
+colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his
+consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state
+of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there
+were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be
+startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system
+which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one
+thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should
+be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so
+favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite
+theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and
+propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this
+unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal
+native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they could
+not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences between
+squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it were
+an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more likely
+to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;
+remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,
+all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money, then
+place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than a
+black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I
+penned these remarks.
+
+19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously examined.
+On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees, plants,
+and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each side,
+and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious shrub
+never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy
+valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of
+former difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had
+travelled upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This
+consisted of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had
+formerly been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of
+Three Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their
+appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend
+Bultje, who had guided me from thence to the Bene Rocks, on my former
+journey along the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had
+elapsed since I formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time
+had made no alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to
+forward my views that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water
+was to be found; and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former
+route, by the least possible DETOUR. Mount Laidley bore 23 deg. E. of N.
+
+20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass seemed
+good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A cattle
+station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and at
+about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it
+crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally
+diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace
+of the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill
+laid down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,
+I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very springs
+mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being limpid and
+surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were now trodden
+by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been endeavouring
+to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it pure, by
+laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The change
+produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by the
+intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable, and I
+could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native, should have
+felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from the level
+plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty feet lower
+continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste of sulphur,
+and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more celebrated.
+They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are not
+supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain
+descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang Creek
+did however retain some water which had fallen during the last rain. The
+thermometer stood at 107 deg. in the tent.
+
+21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a straight
+line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half way to the
+Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating country, just
+heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our guide knew the
+country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here also were two
+flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head station, being
+fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap. While travelling
+this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters from Buree, and a cart
+had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a small supply of corn.
+That country is considered excellent as a fattening run for sheep; the
+shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which keeps them in
+excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of water at some
+seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into sheep runs, and
+VICE VERSA, a contingency which seems to render these lands of Hervey's
+range of temporary and uncertain value.
+
+22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the little
+chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was good--
+the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N. W. It was
+the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing at length
+to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we further
+on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon its
+western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains had
+been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length
+arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Gananaguy,
+and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here
+looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there
+was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,
+and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the
+country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or
+Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the
+Bogan seemed low.
+
+This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the
+failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an
+almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water
+for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform
+width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be
+sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain
+tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the
+sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions
+of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are
+greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is
+scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had
+been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses cannot
+travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the mercy
+of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking
+kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of
+cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and
+lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109 deg. at noon, wind
+W.N.W.
+
+23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr. Templar's
+station at Gananaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood by the party
+as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink to each of
+the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest water-holes
+(Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service he promised,
+I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco promised him, and
+also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This native got a bad
+name from various stockmen, as having been implicated in the murder of
+Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded; and it must indeed
+require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates to maintain his
+footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen or shepherds
+on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter savages
+naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as we
+should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to them,
+while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most unjustly
+connected this native's name with the murder of one of our number. His
+laconic manner and want of language would not admit of any clear
+explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and the
+difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance of
+his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley
+in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil,
+at least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition.
+Much tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by
+stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when
+aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to
+save or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this,
+without having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own
+valley, "surpasseth me to know."
+
+We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr. Gilmore's
+station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk. At the
+station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a flood had
+come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up the well.
+The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the clay was wet
+and soft when the further sinking was interrupted. Thermometer in my tent
+109 deg., wind W. N. W.
+
+24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest sunbeams
+shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off early, but the
+progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind blew like a blast
+furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We encamped on the
+Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after travelling about ten
+miles. Thermometer in tent, 103. deg. Hot wind from the west.
+
+25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more
+from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107 deg..
+
+26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to Mr.
+Coss, 21/2 miles. Thermometer, 109 deg..
+
+27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of the
+bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.
+
+At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind
+from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot
+wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117 deg., and when exposed
+to the wind rose rapidly to 129 deg., when I feared the thermometer would
+break as it only reached to 132 deg..
+
+28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off early,
+accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The day was
+excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally encamped
+on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling eleven miles.
+Thermometer in tent, 115 deg.. At half past five, the sky became overcast,
+and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and suddenly fell. I found
+that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud, leaving a jug of the water
+tolerably clear, but then the acid remained. Towards evening the sky was
+overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The night was uncommonly hot. At
+ten the thermometer stood at 102 deg., and at day-break at 90 deg..
+
+29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle would no
+longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from south. Finding
+a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the lighter
+portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the
+hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM,
+reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a SOLANUM in flower,
+of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener grass
+indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at about
+twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and
+elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had
+been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of
+the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where
+the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the
+Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had
+been once much lower down, at Muda, and even at Nyingan (see INFRA), but
+the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations untenable,
+without more support than the Colonial government was able to afford.
+There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer of the
+country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered. The map
+will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep their
+ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes. [* See
+map of Eastern Australia--INFRA.] The Darling is peopled more permanently
+by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia: affording as
+it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in seasons of very high
+flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got at, and that they are
+obliged to resort to the higher country at such seasons, between the
+Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also happens that the cattle of
+the squatter are most accessible from the soft state of the ground; the
+stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The tribes from the Lachlan
+and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and when tribes assemble they
+are generally ready for any mischief. The Bogan is particularly within
+their reach, and when wet seasons do occur the cattle of squatters must
+be very much at the mercy of the savages. The tribes from the Darling are
+extremely hostile, even to the more peaceably disposed hilltribes near
+the colony, and several stations have already been abandoned in
+consequence of the outrages of the aborigines from the Darling and
+Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils as the precarious
+or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply of water must
+continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from actual
+possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full benefit
+of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres, covered
+with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages smile at the
+want of generalship by which they have been allowed to burn the white
+man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the Bogan. The
+establishment of a police station near the junction of the Bogan with the
+Darling, or the formation of an inland township about Fort Bourke, had
+been sufficient to have secured the stations along the Bogan and
+Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well as our own
+countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such are the
+results where SQUATTING has been permitted to supersede settling. With
+possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied, and no
+such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British colony.
+
+The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
+that between our present camp and Muda, a very large lagoon about 50
+miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206
+feet in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the
+Bogan is only 50 feet between Muda and New Year's Range, in a distance of
+upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Muda
+from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
+general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which
+the overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and
+other channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where
+the declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in
+the channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither
+flow with so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by
+which ponds are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this
+part, during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about
+double the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
+
+I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
+Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require
+to take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
+having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas
+the working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
+journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
+young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
+break them in as we proceeded.
+
+30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool morning.
+Thermometer, 68 deg.. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. Kerr 32
+young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the stockyard.
+
+Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
+
+31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 A. M., 62 deg.: at noon, 109 deg.. Wind
+S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately avoiding the
+tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the air, also
+some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much wanted for
+the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in the evening.
+
+1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, and was
+very high at 11 A. M. The party were chiefly employed breaking in the
+young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with the
+hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
+evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
+ATRIPLEX SEMIBACCATA of Brown was a common straggling plant.
+
+2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning was
+cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the clouds, which
+resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat again. Besides the
+SALSOLA AUSTRALIS, we found a HALGANIA with lilac flowers, probably
+distinct from the species hitherto described, which are natives of the
+south-west coast.
+
+3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the old;
+and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in the
+Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to the
+scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the first
+hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named Mount
+Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The little
+pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of Cunningham was so
+identified with the botanical history of almost all the shrubs in the
+very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no other monument
+seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled Cunningham to my mind; his
+barbarous murder, and the uncertainty which still hung over the actual
+circumstances attending it. The shrubs told indeed of Cunningham; of both
+brothers, both now dead; but neither the shrubs named by the one, nor the
+gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had witnessed the bloody deed, could tell
+more. There the ACACIA PENDULA, first discovered and described by Allan,
+could only
+
+"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand, For ever silent, and for ever
+sad."
+
+4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with the
+young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of conveyance
+was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no pecuniary saving
+would compensate, as compared with light carts and horses. I proceeded
+forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called Tabbaratong, where some
+water was said still to remain. We found some mud and water only;
+although some that was excellent was found about two miles lower down the
+Bogan, late in the evening.
+
+We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the squatter.
+The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and humiliating proofs
+that the white man had given way, were visible in the remains of dairies
+burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We hoped to find within
+the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, unsoiled by cattle,
+and a surface on which we might track our own stray animals, without
+their being confused by the traces of others.
+
+5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the night,
+retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
+brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
+native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light carts,
+guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, who had
+come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native of the
+lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our route
+was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of CALLITRIS and
+other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
+thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
+through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
+The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
+route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
+native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
+driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
+which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
+downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
+on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
+but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabada
+and Muda, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
+the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
+arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabada ponds. The water was however
+excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, and we
+hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only arrived at
+as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The drays
+with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock and Yuranigh
+back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without water, and that I
+wished him, if still EN ROUTE, immediately to unyoke the cattle, encamp
+on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes during the night,
+and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes I had found near
+Bugabada. We passed a miserable night without water at Cadduldury.
+
+6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a message
+from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I went forward
+with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 A. M.. The morning
+happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of water and food the
+preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John Douglas and Isaac
+Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at the first water-hole.
+But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy loads thus far in the
+extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to me. William Baldock
+again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of water on a horse, a
+horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the drays, the drivers of
+which were almost frantic and unable to do their work from thirst. He
+brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still remained at his
+encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the drivers (Mortimer
+and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, and chains, to
+escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to watch his own
+team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune to the whole
+party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as my camp, but
+I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the water,
+which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left with the
+drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the water, and
+the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. Stephenson, who had
+hastened back with several bottles, relieved his thirst, and, as the man
+said, "saved his life."
+
+Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
+hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
+the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
+heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
+however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with which
+I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably disposed
+towards us.
+
+7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare bullocks,
+having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during the night.
+The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part of the
+other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in charge
+of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would also have
+gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. Kennedy sent
+him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays carrying the
+provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. The day surpassed
+in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon in the shade stood
+at 109 deg., a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. Kennedy was distant
+at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabada.
+
+The six drays came in about 4 P. M.; the sheep not until long after dark.
+Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. Kennedy,
+and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement for drawing
+forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care of, and which
+was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the evening of next day, to
+be attached on their arrival to the two drays with which they were to
+come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest of the night, until
+they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined to meet them early
+next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it was not my intention to
+send after the four stray bullocks until the drays came in, and the party
+could be again united. Thermometer again 109 deg. in the shade all day.
+
+The CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was the
+common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
+capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
+reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are
+found so troublesome among the wool.
+
+8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he had found
+him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from want of
+water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to a young
+dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated that a
+tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. Baldock
+had seen several bullocks dead on the way. In the evening the two first
+teams were sent off as arranged. This day had also been very sultry,
+especially towards evening.
+
+9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were despatched
+as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered the camp. We
+had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, to suffer so
+little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, until I
+could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I had been
+previously assured by the young native that water was still to be found
+at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal to the
+whole party.
+
+On the banks of the Bogan, the ATRIPLEX HAGNOIDES formed a round white-
+looking bush.
+
+I rode forward to Muda, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, and
+had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who remembered
+my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show me my old track
+and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the northward of my
+present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had been killed in a fight
+with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. Two old grey-haired
+men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed out to me as his
+brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that I had at first
+imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on their hams
+opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and grey, and
+melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
+
+The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
+struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
+Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
+natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of
+the tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives
+were chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
+
+The natives of Muda assured me there was no water nearer than Nyingan, a
+large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct line lower
+down the Bogan. The ponds of Muda, their great store of water, and known
+to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were alarmingly low, and it
+became evident that our progress under such a scarcity of water would be
+attended with difficulty. These natives gave us also a friendly hint that
+"GENTLEMEN" should be careful of the spears of the natives of Nyingan, as
+many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately by white men from Wellington
+Valley.
+
+Among the woods we observed the white-flowered TEUCRIUM RACEMOSUM, the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink flowers; also a
+STENOCHILUS and FUSANUS (the Quandang), although not in fruit; a new
+species of STIPA, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse rough
+herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in the
+way of C. TRUNCATA, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed
+pales,[**] and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new
+EREMOPHILA with white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The
+beautiful DAMASONIUM OVALIFOLIUM, with white flowers red in the centre,
+still existed in the water.
+
+[* S. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi
+villosis, glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis
+involutis culmis brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligula oblonga
+subciliata.]
+
+[** C. SCLERANTHA (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+breviaristato cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili
+vacuo.]
+
+[*** E. MITCHELLI (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis
+linearibus planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4
+superioribus subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
+
+In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
+the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
+was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
+track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
+following it further.
+
+I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
+out present camp near Bugabada was in latitude 31 deg. 56', and thus very
+near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
+terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90 deg.; at 9 P. M., 70 deg.; with wet bulb,
+63 deg..
+
+10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to the S. W.
+in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I sent
+William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the stray
+bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track to Muda,
+where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and sheep, already
+arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of having been on
+watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell asleep, and that
+the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, but lost himself.
+He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, etc. which he
+declined.
+
+We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
+visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
+state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We had
+passed near Bugabada similar remains of a cattle station. This position
+of Muda was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank nearly
+clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
+surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
+last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of
+a young crop shooting up amongst it.
+
+11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the cattle
+and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Muda for the lost bullocks. To-day I
+noticed the KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
+fruit, edged with pink.
+
+13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning (by
+moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) could
+not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. Kerr's
+station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be found. We
+had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great scarcity of
+water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that our loss
+had been so slight.
+
+I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
+Nyingan, which bore 353 deg.--and having found a tolerably open country for
+about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and encamped,
+sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Muda. Enough had
+been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the camp. To
+ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already stated,
+the paddock at Muda, in which during this night, they could be secured,
+having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I found a
+new grass of the genus CHLORIS[*], something like CHL. TRUNCATA in habit,
+some starved specimens of TRICHINIUM LANATUM; amongst the grasses I also
+found the ARISTIDA CALYCINA of Brown, the curious NEURACHNE MITCHELLIANA
+Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and also a new PAPPOPHORUM
+with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart shower fell
+during the evening.
+
+[* C. ACICULARIS (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+setaceo aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
+
+[** P. FLAVESCENS (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis,
+spica composita densissima oblonga, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis
+pilosis, foliis vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis
+villosis.]
+
+14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Muda, and were immediately
+yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on the same
+bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been encamped, I
+turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water there. I
+found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a journey of
+about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently found I had
+encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was guided by the
+friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his country
+afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I had cut
+off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a north-
+westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels will
+probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan may
+be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
+stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
+been burnt down.
+
+15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day was
+fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
+found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
+the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
+Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
+An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the JASMINUM
+LINEARE, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the water, I saw
+the ALTERNANTHERA NODIFLORA.
+
+16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, crossing
+the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked trees. We
+lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgaba, and made a slight
+detour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we encamped, and
+were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this day's journey
+Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen with those of the
+feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old track, and
+returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces of our
+party.
+
+At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
+natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
+house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were sunken
+very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp had been
+established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look for
+the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
+my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
+thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water,
+but in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen,
+during the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
+
+17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the native
+Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to the
+Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from that point
+to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, provided this did
+not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by sunset. Two old
+women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by whom Piper was told that
+the nearest permanent water was "NIMINE," where white men had attempted
+to form a cattle-station, and been prevented by natives from the Darling,
+many of whom had since been shot by the white men. They said the place
+was far beyond Canbelego, the next stage of my former journey, and where
+these women also said little or no water remained.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven A.M., having found water at Canbelego.
+Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the fruit of the
+CAPPARIS MITCHELLII, which he called an apple, being new to him, but
+which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, and said was
+called "MOGUILE;" he also said that it was eaten by the natives.
+
+18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two small ponds
+remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass than we had
+hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of water, we had
+been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again forward looking for
+water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and after following the
+river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was now within the same
+distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had found abundance of water
+when I sent him to survey it upwards during my last return journey up the
+Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in which Piper pointed, that
+the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as containing water; and as the
+course of that creek, so far as shown on maps, led even more directly to
+the Darling than did the Bogan, I was willing in such a season of extreme
+drought, to avail myself of its waters. My eye had been much injured by
+straining at stars while at the camp near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to
+send Mr. Kennedy on one of my own horses, followed by Graham, to examine
+the water in Duck Creek. I instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35 deg.
+E. of North, until he should reach the creek, and if he found water in it
+to return direct to the camp, but that if water was not found on first
+making the creek, then he was to follow Duck Creek up to its junction
+with an eastern branch, surveyed also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence
+to the camp on a bearing of 240 deg.. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with
+Yuranigh down the Bogan, to ascertain if the channel contained any pond
+between our camp and the part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.
+
+This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve hours,
+and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after examining its
+bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on the plains near
+the head of the eastern branch, but around which there was no grass, all
+having been recently burnt.
+
+20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven A.M., saying he had been twenty-
+four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the same time
+Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me that these
+animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud remaining in
+the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that four of the
+horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that William
+Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an early hour in
+the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the bullocks to
+Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks, also the horses,
+and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the whole of the
+cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks filled.
+
+21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to Nyingan, I
+conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of 1835), having on
+two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts under them all
+the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use the iron boat
+as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage forward;
+that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards the water I
+hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a convenient
+distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven forward to
+return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered possible,
+even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the fine
+reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the 14th
+May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from the gin's
+description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the disputed
+station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve miles from
+Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions to bring the
+drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning. I had sent
+thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of Baldock and
+the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no longer at
+Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats, the contents
+of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was immediately sent
+back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh horses had been left,
+to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to Nyingan during the
+night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the dray--already there with
+the harness casks--bringing an additional supply back in the kegs, when
+the bullocks returned next day.
+
+It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the
+state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at once,
+whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to cross
+to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I
+accordingly set out at 3 P.M., from where the water had been placed in
+the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal
+Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from
+the camp in the direction of 30 deg. E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we
+reached at about 31/2 miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed
+was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond
+of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel
+downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found the
+general direction was westward, until it JOINED THE BOGAN. We next
+followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,
+without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any
+of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,
+in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.
+
+22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western bends of the
+Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great pond beyond
+Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very shining and compact in
+a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed, that the grass was green
+as from recent rain, and that there was more chirping of birds; I was
+tempted once more by these indications, to look for water in the Bogan's
+almost hopeless channel, and there we found a pond, at sight of which
+poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell asleep almost in the
+water. It was small, but being sufficient for our immediate wants, we
+thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and proceeded on our
+eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this pond I discovered
+my old track, which we continued to follow across those large plains,
+whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless. These plains I soon
+again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels, distinctly visible
+in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven years. Arriving at length
+near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we resumed our examination
+of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle tracks; the ovens in which
+the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and about their old encampments
+many heaps of bones; but in none of the deep beds of former ponds or
+lagoons could we discover any water. The grass was nevertheless excellent
+and abundant; and its waste, added to the distress the want of water
+occasioned us, made us doubly lament the absence of civilised
+inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and fine soil could have
+been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor were even kangaroos
+or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer inhabitants of these parts. I
+turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it would have been unsafe
+to venture with cattle and drays into these regions before rain fell. In
+returning, we at first found it difficult to find our old track, by which
+alone we could hope that night to reach the small pond of the morning;
+but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and we had also the good
+fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the pond before sunset.
+There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad indeed to have even that
+water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy, had repeatedly thrown
+himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite ill from thirst.
+
+23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the pond;
+but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed, although with
+water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from an old marked
+tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160 deg., I several times during
+our ride fell in with the old track, and finally reached the camp after a
+rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party had arrived the
+previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr. Kennedy was
+absent, having set off that morning in search of water to the N. E. with
+Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving word that he should
+return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that hour, however, and at
+two I moved the party across the Bogan, and proceeded along open plains
+towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the intention of there refreshing
+the cattle and horses, and awaiting more favourable weather. I previously
+watered out of the half-boat, 106 bullocks, and gave a quart to each of
+the horses. On the way, the heat was so intense that our three best and
+strongest kangaroo dogs died, and it was not until 10 P. M. that the
+drays reached the ponds where I had proposed to encamp. About an hour and
+a half before, Mr. Kennedy also came in, having galloped the two horses
+66 miles, and hurt both their backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 P.
+M., therm. 80 deg., wet bulb, 68 deg..
+
+24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from ophthalmia,
+and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several of the men
+were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of this malady
+in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the warm air
+wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same effect until
+the weather changed. At 9 P. M., therm. 84 deg., with wet bulb, 68 deg..
+
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.--BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.--MOVE
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBA AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.--HOT WIND.--HEAT GREATER
+THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.--PIPER'S
+INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.--HIS SENT TO BATHURST.--WEATHER CHANGES.--
+RAIN.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.--SALT MADE FROM THE SALT
+PLANT.--RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."--THE PARTY QUITS CANNONBA--CROSSES
+PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK--AND THENCE TO THE RIVER MACQUARIE.--OPHTHALMIA
+STILL TROUBLESOME.--APPROACH OF A FLOOD ANNOUNCED.--ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR
+MOONLIGHT.--MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.--NO
+WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."--DIFFICULTY OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM
+SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST THE REEDS.--"YULLIYALLY," A
+NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR
+NATIVE GUIDE.--CONDITION OF HIS COUNTRYMEN.--HOW AFFECTED BY THE
+INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.--AT LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.--DELAYED BY
+STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.--AT LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE
+RIVER WITH THE DARLING.--CROSS THE MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION--AND FORD
+THE DARLING AT WYABRY.
+
+25TH JANUARY.--Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application of
+leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent William
+Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought back
+enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The ground
+here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the Darling, with
+the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be lost in seeking
+some ponds where there might be also good grass for the cattle. Therm. at
+sunrise, 97 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 9 P.M. 90 deg.; with wet bulb, 71 deg..
+
+26TH JANUARY.--I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E. direction to
+where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected from a cloudy
+sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that water was near,
+as natives are seldom found where there is none. He returned early with
+the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of water in a creek about
+five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks. My eyes were so far
+recovered that I could observe the altitude of a star, thus ascertaining
+the latitude of this camp to be 31 deg. 20' 20" S. Therm. at sunrise, 85 deg.; at
+noon, 112 deg.; at 9 P.M. 84 deg.; with wet bulb, 70 deg..
+
+27TH JANUARY.--The whole party moved to the ponds called "Cannonba" by
+the natives. There we found greater abundance of water and better grass
+than we had seen near water during the whole journey, and I determined to
+halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had previously
+intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle, when we
+should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers had been
+much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses had got out
+of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the Darling their
+services would be more required. I was also to try the experiment here,
+whether I might prosecute the journey without danger of losing my
+eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point, had been
+almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no hostile
+natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins; rain was
+daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly come in a
+short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented to me as
+needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the wheels;--
+and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we could encamp
+under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We placed our tents
+amongst shady bushes--set up the blacksmith's forge, and soon all hands
+were at work in their various avocations, whilst the cattle and horses
+enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance of water.
+
+Amongst the bushes here, a HAKEA, with simple filiform mucronulate leaves
+without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls resembling dry
+plums. Also the SENECIO CUNNINGHAMI (D.C.), found by Allan Cunningham on
+the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson discovered here a very pretty
+new TRICHINIUM, with heads of hoary pink flowers. [* T. SEMILANATUM
+(Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis, angulatis, foliis linearibus
+acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris hemisphericis, rachi
+dense bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis plumosis parce
+lanatis.]
+
+I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan,
+consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E.
+of us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by
+Larmer is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful
+one it has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds
+(whence we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonba;" and to
+what I suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point
+northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78 deg.; at
+noon, 115 deg.; at 4 P.M. 96 deg.; at 9, 88 deg.; with wet bulb, 73 deg..
+
+28TH JANUARY.--Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with large
+chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the bottom of
+one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about the banks.
+Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station had not
+been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by some old gins
+seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when the place was
+abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the W.N.W. of Mount
+Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse was broader
+than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained much granitic sand, all
+but identifying its sources with those of the Macquarie. This day was
+very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a shower fell about 3 P.M.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 78 deg.; at noon, 115 deg.; at 4 P.M. 108 deg.; at 9, 84 deg.;
+with wet bulb, 63 deg..
+
+29TH JANUARY.--A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer to
+115 deg. in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon
+became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near
+us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a
+heavy shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102 deg..
+
+30TH JANUARY.--An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the quarter
+where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This day the
+doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in my
+former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor
+fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80 deg.; at noon, 103 deg.; at 4 P.M., 108 deg.; at 9,
+100 1/2 deg.; with wet bulb, 79 deg..
+
+31ST JANUARY.--The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of
+observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The table
+for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by my
+friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88 deg. of Fahrenheit, whereas at 4
+P.M., the centigrade thermometer stood at 441/2 deg., which is equal to 112 deg. of
+Fahrenheit.
+
+This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking
+with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made
+some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various sayings
+and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never any serious
+intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its progress. The
+services of other more intelligent natives might easily have been
+obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but
+Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of
+course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long interval
+of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance, although
+during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay, the river
+Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party on this
+last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled gun,
+clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets, place in a
+tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a very bad
+shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to obtain any
+clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as interpreter; he
+went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had drawn his rations and
+those of the two young natives separately from the men's mess the week
+before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their fair share; he
+was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine departure,
+foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he could thus
+obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He also had it
+in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from the other
+two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had heard of
+the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards the
+cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were
+actively at their work,--blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers,--this
+man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse to boot,
+and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom he called
+his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native guide,
+just at the time when such guides were most required. The only difficulty
+I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two others,
+and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in advance, and
+he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to have him
+instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other native,
+Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He denied the
+intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to him to leave
+the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not understand him;
+that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so far from his own
+home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to Bathurst, and the
+rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the other two, and that
+he should be kept apart from them during the night. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 85 deg.; at noon, 111 deg.; at 4 P.M., 112 deg.; at 9, 101 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+78 deg..
+
+1ST FEBRUARY.--This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal Graham. Mr.
+Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police station, and
+make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper to Bathurst,
+his own district, which would put it out of his power to molest the party
+by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it. On them this
+measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh calmly observing
+that Piper had only himself to blame for what had befallen him, and that
+he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook also to obtain, if he
+could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those which had died from
+excessive heat. By that loss our party was left almost without dogs; and
+dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and emus, but to afford
+protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks by the natives, in
+which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were approaching, had
+been rather too successful against various armed parties of whites.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 88 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at 4 P.M., 106 deg.; at 9 P.M.,
+88 deg.;--with wet bulb, 76 deg..
+
+2ND FEBRUARY.--The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud which
+appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and eagerly
+watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a presage of
+rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at 4 P.M., 106; at 9,
+88 deg.;--with wet bulb, 72 deg..
+
+3RD FEBRUARY.--High winds whistled among the trees this morning, and dark
+clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell about 9
+A.M., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of nimbus. The high
+wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and this morning, and
+in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But when the rain began
+to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which quarter the rain seemed
+to come. With it came a very peculiar smell, which I had noticed near
+Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the commencement of the rainy
+weather there; and nothing could have been more welcome to us now, than
+the prospect of rain, and the decided change in the temperature from 115 deg.
+to 73 deg.. This was almost the first day during a month in which the air had
+not been warmer than our blood; often had it been greater than fever
+heat, so that 73 deg. felt to us as cool as 50 deg. would have been to a resident
+of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at our camp, but it seemed that rain
+was falling about the sources of the Bogan and other places at which a
+supply of water was indispensable to enable us to proceed. At sunset,
+glimpses of a clear sky appeared about the horizon, and during the night
+the moon and stars came forth, and destroyed all hopes of more rain. We
+were thankful, however, for the relief afforded by what had fallen, which
+had lowered the temperature about 40 degrees, and enabled us to enjoy a
+night of refreshing rest. Thermometer at sunrise, 85 deg.; at noon, 80 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 68 deg.;--with wet bulb, 67 deg..
+
+4TH FEBRUARY.--The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with refreshing
+breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61 deg.. This day we had
+completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the tire-
+rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the wheels;
+the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat, as to
+have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were required
+by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts, and
+the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and zeal.
+Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for another
+effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 89 deg.; at 4 P.M., 89 deg.; at 9,
+72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+5TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the mercurial column stood higher than I had
+yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across the
+sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards the
+northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the
+thermometer never having risen above 96 deg.. By 6 P.M., the barometer had
+fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial
+circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a
+change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not only
+to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 96 deg.; at 9, 73 deg.;
+with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+6TH FEBRUARY.--Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky, and
+shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change seemed
+to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the
+previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and
+at about 7 A.M. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the
+woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer had
+fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue
+through the night. Range of thermometer from 74 deg. to 72 deg..
+
+7TH FEBRUARY.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the
+mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening.
+About 10 A.M. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke
+through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus.
+Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie,
+Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had
+risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains
+about five inches.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for Piper's
+conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back a good
+bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various water-
+courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the natives
+about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at sunrise,
+74 deg.; at noon, 86 deg.; at 4 P.M., 90 deg.; at 9, 80 deg.;--with wet bulb, 75 deg..
+
+8TH FEBRUARY.--The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air made us
+much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had been living,
+although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air,
+especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry
+heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it
+(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80 deg.; at
+noon, 96 deg.; at 4 P.M., 95 deg.; at 9, 80 deg.;--with wet bulb, 75 deg..
+
+9TH FEBRUARY.--The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to bestow
+more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these
+remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It
+appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only
+efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible
+condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a
+vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher
+country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the
+"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for
+licking the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep,
+lumps of it being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it
+is certain that by this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much
+injured in health and condition, losing their appetite for grass, and
+finally passing clay only, as may be seen near such places. In the salt
+plants on these plains, nature has amply provided for this taste of these
+large herbivora for salt. Our sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and
+the cattle ate greedily of various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly
+salt to the taste. The colour of the leaves of such bushes is usually a
+very light bluish green, and there are many species. That with the
+largest leaves, called salt-bush by stockmen, and by Dr. Brown RHAGODIA
+PARABOLICA, was very useful as a vegetable after extracting the salt
+sufficiently from it. This we accidentally discovered from some
+experiments made by Mr. Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the
+proportion of salt contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much
+as a twentieth part of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from
+two pounds of the leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the
+leaves a few minutes in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a
+third water, the leaves formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat
+resembling spinach. As the superior excellence of these runs for
+fattening cattle is admitted on all hands, as compared with others more
+abundant in grass on the eastern side of the great range, would it not be
+advisable for the colonists to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and
+thereby to produce a vegetable substitute for the rock salt, which is not
+only expensive, but only a very imperfect remedy for the clay-licking
+propensities of sheep and cattle on many runs? Thermometer at sunrise,
+70 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 98 deg.; at 9, 86 deg.;--with wet bulb, 75 deg..
+
+[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:--"Two pounds of the
+green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then
+strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted to
+a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint
+of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then
+exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a
+cubic shape having previously been formed."]
+
+10TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an
+animal apparently of the same genus as the DIPUS MITCHELLII, and which
+seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three
+millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three
+more. A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 P.M. a dark thunder
+cloud came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was
+very loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high,
+and rain heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 P.M., except in the N.
+E. where the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75 deg..
+
+11TH FEBRUARY.--The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward of
+our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the Macquarie. I hoped
+to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party halting on it
+one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I was now
+convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party until it
+could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it,
+with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp,
+a direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to
+divide the journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I
+crossed plains covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at
+length obtained a sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck
+Creek (that of Sturt), or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the
+bearing of Mount Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined
+the bed of the Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing
+therein the least indication of water, and returned to the camp fully
+resolved to proceed next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little
+way below Mount Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for
+the cattle to travel over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at
+noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg.. From an
+average of twenty-five observations of the mercurial column, the height
+of this station has been determined to be 566 English feet above the
+level of the sea.
+
+12TH FEBRUARY.--We broke up our encampment on Cannonba ponds, where we
+had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and crossing the
+channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we travelled over
+open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At thirteen miles we
+reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra," a name by which it
+is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this we crossed several
+branches, from which it would appear as if the name was derived from that
+of the hand, which is the same, especially as natives sometimes hold up
+the hand and extend the fingers, when they would express that a river has
+various branches or sources. I went on with an advanced party towards the
+Macquarie, and encamped on the bank of that river at 5 P. M. The thick
+grass, low forests of yarra trees, and finally the majestic blue gum
+trees along the river margin, reminded me of the northern rivers seen
+during my journey of 1831. Still even the bed of this was dry, and I
+found only two water holes on examining the channel for two miles. One of
+these was, however, deep, and we encamped near it, surrounded by
+excellent grass in great abundance. The Macquarie, like other Australian
+rivers, has a peculiar character, and this was soon apparent in the reeds
+and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy plats, and not, as usual in other
+rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks. The channel was here deep and
+dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by Marra Creek, the ACACIA
+SALICINA, whereof the wood has a strong perfume resembling violets, also
+a new small-leaved KOCHIA with intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at
+sunrise, 47 deg.; at 4 P. M., 77 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 56 deg..
+
+[* K. THYMIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis
+pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.]
+
+13TH FEBRUARY.--I was again laid up with the MALADIE DU PAYS--sore eyes.
+Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster, and to
+various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to which I
+required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down. But no
+one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as no
+person had passed that way; the country being more open on the eastern
+side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at Graway,
+about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the west bank.
+Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the mounted police. To
+my most important question--what water was to be found lower down in the
+river--the reply was very satisfactory; namely, "plenty, and a FLOOD
+COMING DOWN from the Turmountains." The two policemen said they had
+travelled twenty miles with it, on the day previous, and that it would
+still take some time to arrive near our camp. About noon the drays
+arrived in good order, having been encamped where there was no water
+about six miles short of our camp, the whole distance travelled, from
+Cannonba to the Macquarie, having been about nineteen miles. In the
+afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the river, reported on their
+return, that the flood poured in upon them when in the river bed, so
+suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed of the Macquarie
+before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I could scarcely
+believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who had been put
+to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I stationed a man
+with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on the flood's
+appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the channel
+nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to see, as
+well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came, however,
+but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp. Some
+hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like that of
+a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking
+timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very
+slow degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw
+various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood
+appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending
+of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene moonlight
+night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of waters and
+loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the next bend.
+It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a moving cataract,
+tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them against its banks. It
+was preceded by a point of meandering water, picking its way, like a
+thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark, dry, and shady bed,
+of what thus again became a flowing river. By my party, situated as we
+were at that time, beating about the country, and impeded in our journey,
+solely by the almost total absence of water--suffering excessively from
+thirst and extreme heat,--I am convinced the scene never can be
+forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the product of storms in the far
+off mountains, that overlooked our homes. My first impulse was to have
+welcomed this flood on our knees, for the scene was sublime in itself,
+while the subject--an abundance of water sent to us in a desert--greatly
+heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice it to say, I had witnessed
+nothing of such interest in all my Australian travels. Even the heavens
+presented something new, at least uncommon, and therefore in harmony with
+this scene; the variable star ARGUS had increased to the first magnitude,
+just above the beautiful constellation of the southern cross, which
+slightly inclined over the river, in the only portion of sky seen through
+the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly increasing in magnitude,
+might, as characteristic of her rivers, be recognized as the star of
+Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The river gradually filled up
+the channel nearly bank high, while the living cataract travelled onward,
+much slower than I had expected to see it; so slowly, indeed, that more
+than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet music of the head of the
+flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the murmur of waters, and
+the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly through the tortuous
+windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to sleep by that melody
+of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and evidently so unwonted in the
+dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon,
+79 deg.; at 4 P. M., 88 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+14TH FEBRUARY.--The river had risen to within six feet of the top of the
+banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but no
+longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion
+downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the
+Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a
+probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing
+the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the
+Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling
+soon into a cart track which led us to Graway, Mr. Kinghorne's
+cattlestation, and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of
+the river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so
+generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of
+the marshes. The IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, with its long head of white silky
+flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock, on
+the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon, 91 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+82 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 60 deg.. Height above the level of the sea,
+475 feet.
+
+15TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day, and
+guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have his
+assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other
+objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees
+of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was
+visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon.
+Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most formidable
+impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty of these got
+astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank of rather firm
+ground, in lat. 30 deg. 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on some parts of
+open plains near the marshes, and the best was the PANICUM LOEVINODE of
+Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as having been found
+pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we could not then discover.
+Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was called by the natives "coolly,"
+and that the gins gather it in great quantities, and pound the seeds
+between stones with water, forming a kind of paste or bread; thus was
+clearly explained the object of those heaps of this grass which we had
+formerly seen on the banks of the Darling. There they had formed the
+native's harvest field. There also I observed a brome grass, probably not
+distinct from the BROODS AUSTRALIS of Brown; it called to mind the
+squarrose brome grass of Europe. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon,
+87 deg.; at 4, 89 deg.; at 9, 73 deg.;--with wet bulb, 66 deg..
+
+[* Vol. i. p. 237.]
+
+16TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to examine
+Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be found in it
+lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with the store-
+keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost sheep in
+the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not very far
+from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the flock.
+Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the cattle.
+We had still the Macquarie at hand--deep, muddy, and stagnant--not above
+thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could scarcely approach
+the water without sinking to the knees. We could water the horses with
+buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of filling one of the
+half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means, was inevitable,
+and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a wheel required
+repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these reasons found
+it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly. At sunset,
+Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the "Marra," (Duck
+Creek).
+
+Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the ANDROPOGON
+SERICEUS and an ERIANTHUS, which appeared to differ from E. FULVUS in
+having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the European LYTHRUM
+SALICARIA, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among the reeds of the
+Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the Thames. We saw also
+MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D. C.), a variety with toothed
+leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling B. HETERODONTA, only the leaves were
+entire. A new species of LOTUS appeared among the reeds, very near the
+narrow-leaved form of L. AUSTRALIS on the one hand, and the South
+European narrow-leaved form of L. CORNICULATUS on the other; the flowers
+were pink, and smaller than in L. AUSTRALIS.[*] Also an ETHULIA [**],
+which may, on further examination, constitute a new genus; it was found
+by Allan Cunningham on the Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon,
+86 deg.; at 4 P.M., 84 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 54 deg..
+
+[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus
+v. lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3--6-
+floris, calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-
+acuminatis tubo suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.]
+
+[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo, foliis
+oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis
+globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis
+paucis brevibus.]
+
+17TH FEBRUARY.--The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne having shown
+me a few miles more of the best ground between the scrubs and reeds, went
+towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie, where a belt of open
+forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass. He prevailed on a
+native whom he met with there to come with him to me, and to guide me to
+water until I reached the Barwan. This native at first seemed rather
+afraid of our numerous party, but our own native, Yuranigh, endeavoured
+by every means to make him at ease, and to induce him to remain with us.
+He guided us this day by fine open ground westward of the marshes, to a
+part of the Macquarie where the banks were solid enough to admit of the
+cattle drinking. The name was Bilgawangara; I reached the spot early, but
+at sunset no drays had come up. At length I was informed that such was
+the softness of the soil, that the drays had sank frequently, that two
+were fast in one place, four in another, and that two of the bullocks
+were astray. The marshes were said to be just then occupied by some angry
+tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne had warned me to be on my guard. The
+patience necessary to any traveller depending on bullocks and bullock
+drivers, I then thought ought to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was
+very shy, and Yuranigh feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for
+finding water--on our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not
+have done then to have sent him away. The weather might change, and these
+marshes become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of
+Providence in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red
+Sea. It depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be
+considered Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the
+moon had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat.
+30 deg. 45' 55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P.M., 88 deg.;
+at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 54 deg..
+
+18TH FEBRUARY.--Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind, and the
+iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The
+cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's
+journey without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of
+the two lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to
+little Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had
+lost them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search,
+as Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of
+entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his
+escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that
+the white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the
+country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere
+child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them being
+young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds.
+
+In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the
+native tobacco, NICOTIANA SUAVEOLEUS, the MINURIA HETEROPHYLLA (D.C.),
+found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a FUGOSIA near F.
+DIGITATA of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery ATRIPLEX
+with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 93 deg.; at 4 P.M., 96 deg.; at 9, 67 deg.;--
+with wet bulb 59 deg..
+
+[* A. NUMMULARIA (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis
+alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque
+argenteis, floribus monoicis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis
+subrotundis dentatis basi connatis.]
+
+19TH FEBRUARY.--We set off early, guided by our native friend. He was a
+very perfect specimen of the GENUS HOMO, and such as never is to be seen,
+except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale of
+graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free
+enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than
+can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod
+animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs;
+the fulness yet perfect elasticity of the GLUTEI muscles. The hollowness
+of the back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso,
+ornamented as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised
+scarifications most tastefully placed; such were some of the
+characteristics of this perfect "piece of work." Compared with it, the
+civilised animal, when considered merely in the light of a specimen in
+natural history, how inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of
+that class, for such teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of
+sight, hearing, smelling, tasting, feeling; for such powers of running,
+climbing, or walking; for such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of
+all that nature provides for her children of the woods. Such health and
+exemption from disease; such intensity of existence, in short, must be
+far beyond the enjoyments of civilised men, with all that art can do for
+them; and the proof of this is to be found in the failure of all attempts
+to persuade these free denizens of uncultivated earth to forsake it for
+the tilled ground. They prefer the land unbroken and free from the
+earliest curse pronounced against the first banished and first created
+man. The only kindness we could do for them, would be to let them and
+their wide range of territory alone; to act otherwise and profess good-
+will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the land without producing a
+change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that which took place on
+man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have hitherto lived utterly
+ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or the utility of
+ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would, no doubt,
+prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to original sin,
+even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were the reflections
+suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped on lightly before
+me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our party, who,
+muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in favour of our
+pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our faithful Yuranigh
+was all that could be wished. He was assiduously making to the stranger
+such explanations of our wants and purposes, as induced him to conduct us
+in the direction these required. He led us, thus admonished, over those
+parts of the country most favourable for the passage of wheels. The
+rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts were covered with most
+luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a salt-bush plain, where
+there was a small pond of water left by the last rains on a clay surface.
+There was certainly enough for ourselves and horses, but it appeared that
+our guide had greatly underrated the capacity for water, of our hundred
+bullocks. For these, however, there was superb grass to the westward, and
+a little dew fell on it during the night. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at
+noon, 102 deg.; at 4 P. M., 104 deg.; at 9, 77 deg.;--with wet bulb, 65 deg..
+
+20TH FEBRUARY.--From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as
+possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather
+soft, otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the
+westward, and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow
+belts of reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great
+satisfaction to learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A
+shallow creek appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide
+had expected to find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently
+drank up there, what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He
+showed us the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were
+made to feel, in common with the aborigines, those privations to which
+they are exposed by the white man's access to their country. On
+proceeding some miles further, our guide following down the channel, he
+at length appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe,
+on which Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and
+there, in fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in
+the attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wammerawa,
+the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and
+marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds may
+have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from the
+"balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan,
+Murrumbidgee, and Millewa; the former being a cane or bamboo, the latter
+a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found good
+grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was fringed
+with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA
+observed at Muda on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the
+spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the teams
+of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been damaged; the
+six others were brought up in the course of the evening. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 60 deg.; at 4 P. M., 103 deg.; at 9, 78 deg.;--with wet bulb, 68 deg..
+
+21ST FEBRUARY.--The first thing done this morning was to send back cattle
+to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it might be
+repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the journey
+by 1 P. M. The barometer was going down at a rate which was alarming
+enough, considering what our position must have been there in a flood, or
+even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward with the
+light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 P. M. to
+"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again,
+he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden
+the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water
+that night, nor until we could reach the Barwan, then distant, I was
+quite sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude
+observed (30 deg. 19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back
+directions that the drays should at once halt, taking their places beside
+the leading dray, and that the cattle should be driven back in the
+morning to be watered at the last camp (Warranb), and then to return and
+follow in my track. Mr. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to
+serve out a week's rations to the party with the drays, and he returned
+to my camp by 2 A. M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the
+former messenger, rations for my party. Here we found the KERAUDRENIA
+INTEGRIFOLIA. Thermometer at sunrise, 70 deg.; at noon, 105 deg.; at 9, 83 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+22D FEBRUARY.--My guide was now desirous that I should cross the
+Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more favourable
+for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by drawing
+lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would cross and
+impede my journey to the Barwan. There were the Castlereagh, Morissett's
+Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct, which it
+was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least fifty
+miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.]
+
+An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the
+necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in
+communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills which
+partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was
+Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that some
+flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we might
+therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie. This,
+with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made intelligible
+to our Barwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly. He took us
+through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water usually
+lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay happens to
+be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But the water in
+these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled into hard clay
+by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first become
+sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots, where
+nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are well
+known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and such
+places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by the
+most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can exist
+apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers. Cattle
+find these places and come from stations often many miles distant,
+attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus
+treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy
+the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the
+kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more
+disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain
+every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot"
+should appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually
+happened to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want
+of water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110 deg.. The store-keeper
+was taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and the
+fate of the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the sheep,
+which had not drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to me at
+that time. It may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at length
+saw before me large basins of water in the channel of the Macquarie, when
+I next approached the banks, after a journey at a good pace for six hours
+and a half. We had made it below the junction of Morissett's Ponds, and
+found that a recent flood had filled its channel with water. The natives
+dived into it to cure their headaches, as they said, and seemed to go
+completely under water, in order to take a cool drink. We had reached the
+united channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's Ponds, and were at an
+easy day's journey only distant from the junction with the BARWAN or
+"Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this river is indispensable
+amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not appear to know it to be
+the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to such rivers their
+proper names as early as possible after they have been ascertained, were
+it only to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves of the
+intelligence and assistance of the natives, in identifying the country by
+means of the published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to the
+natives as the Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wawill; and the lower part
+of the Macquarie, as the Wammerawa. The squatting system of occupation
+requires still more that the native names of rivers should be known to
+commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast extent,
+whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach or
+control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line the
+squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 110 deg.; at 4 P. M., 107 deg.; at 9, 89 deg.;
+--with wet bulb 72 deg..
+
+23RD FEBRUARY.--The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence of
+them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I had
+sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to send
+forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought me
+word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the
+morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him. They
+had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the water,
+as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was excessive,
+a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the banks of the
+Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus SCLEROLOENA was remarked;
+it was perhaps not distinct from S. UNIFLORA. The GOODENIA GENICULATA
+overran the ground, with its strawberry-like runners, and yellow flowers.
+Latitude, 30 deg. 12' 56" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 75 deg.; at noon, 105 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 94 deg.; at 9, 73 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+24TH FEBRUARY.--Some of the teams came up, having been out all night. The
+drivers brought me word that they had been detached at twilight to come
+six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could not see my
+track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks had strayed
+from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of delay by the
+bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey (thirteen
+miles) of the Barwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days, and
+really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers
+seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 80 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+25TH FEBRUARY.--In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the stray
+bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a bullock
+driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the track of
+the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at sunrise, 53 deg.;
+at noon, 90 deg.; at 4 P.M., 94 deg.; at 9, 79 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+26TH FEBRUARY.--Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only one of
+the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace
+twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the day; he
+said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in with. I
+blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him forthwith on
+foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we were doomed
+to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by carrying on the
+mapping of our survey, in order to make good our longitude at crossing
+the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 101 deg.;
+at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62. deg.
+
+27TH FEBRUARY.--When the teams were about to be put to the drays this
+morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed the
+party until 10 A.M., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I
+reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a
+proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such
+unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground,
+having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about
+six miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and
+said they called that the "Barwan." As it was still a mere chain of
+ponds, though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel;
+he also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was
+convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the
+channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the
+junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it,
+however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after
+him, to rejoin the party.
+
+I this day gave "Yulliyally," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe,
+tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne,
+certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 62 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 97 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+28TH FEBRUARY.--The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp at 6
+A.M., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost
+bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came
+upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a
+stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawa, on which I had been
+encamped, joined the Barwan, then on my right, within two miles of the
+spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr.
+Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and
+on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna,
+Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Barwan. I turned
+with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Barwan, and encamped
+thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which our
+exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a good
+current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like a
+river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good
+ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had
+been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the
+cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of
+Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which we
+had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot
+weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*] Thermometer
+at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 101 deg.; at 4 P.M., 100 deg.; at 9, with wet bulb,
+62 deg..
+
+[* Calotis SCAPIGERA (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus
+radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis
+robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.--A very
+distinct species. Habit of BRACHYSTEPHIUM SCAPIGERUM D. C.: but that
+ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in
+proportion to the size of the capitulum.]
+
+1ST MARCH.--When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher
+point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or
+bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we found
+it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot
+season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle
+stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary
+arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed quite
+unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length
+arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many
+rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final
+outlet or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch
+one might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the
+same river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood
+had gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast
+regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another
+instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more apparent to
+man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or attentively
+examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to him. The very
+slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains seems finely
+adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this part of the
+earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern coastranges
+were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of sustained
+current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such inclined
+channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread into a
+net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill
+lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous
+channel, would at once run off into the ocean.
+
+[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been
+wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as CARAWY, which the name
+resembles, means any deep water-hole.]
+
+In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route with
+our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have preferred,
+and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the known limits of
+this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which the route
+necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had not lost
+time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over very
+considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more desirable
+to any country we might discover, than one liable to be interrupted by
+flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of our drays, along
+the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a new and direct route
+from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by way of Bathurst; and
+afforded access to a vast extent of excellent pasturage on the Macquarie,
+along the western margin of the marshes, which land would, no doubt, be
+soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a climate, and where water is so
+frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found that the shortest line of
+route with such advantages would be more frequented than any longer line,
+possessing only the remote advantage of security from interruption by too
+much water. Thermometer at sunrise, 64 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P.M., 101 deg.;
+at 9, 81 deg.; with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+2ND MARCH--MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyabry, (Mr.
+Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays,
+although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better
+approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so
+attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without
+some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I sent
+some men to the last-mentioned work.
+
+I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the
+rivers Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains
+having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the
+Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to
+guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a
+distance of only seven miles beyond the Barwan there at the "Morella
+Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain
+seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were
+very fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously
+ascertained to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr.
+Lindley CAPPARIS MITCHELLII.[*] We found back from this camp the
+RUTIDOSIS HELYCHRYSOIDES of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72 deg.; at
+noon, 101 deg.; at 4 P.M.; 100 deg.; at 9, 78 deg.; and with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.]
+
+3D MARCH.--Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better
+approaches to the ford across the Barwan at Mr. Parnell's station.
+Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and
+Darling at our present camp to be 147 deg. 33' 45" E., by actual measurements
+connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr. Kennedy had chained
+the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had connected his work with
+latitudes observed at almost every encampment, and after determining at
+various points the magnetic variation, which appeared to be very steady,
+I made the latitude of this camp 30 deg. 6' 11" south. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 72 deg.; at noon, 99 deg.; at 4 P.M., 97 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.; and with wet bulb,
+65 deg.. The height above the sea level of the bed of the river here, the
+average result of eight observations, as calculated by Capt. King, was
+415 feet.
+
+4TH MARCH.--The party moved off towards the ford over the Barwan at
+Wyabry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its
+junction with the Barwan; there, although the approaches had been well
+enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of
+which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft
+and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which earth
+was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived about
+noon at Wyabry, and by 2 P.M. the whole was safely encamped on the right
+bank of the Barwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from my son,
+commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most favourable
+account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of my proposed
+route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the hands of a
+native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr. Lawson, being
+then on his way down the river, had promised to send them to me, from a
+station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke, where it had been
+supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30 deg. 5' 41" S. On this
+northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in botany, and found
+some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of SENERIO
+BRACHYLOENUS D. C., a kind of groundsel; MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, loaded with
+purple blossoms, and a variety of HELICHRYSUM BRACTEATUM, somewhat
+different in the leaves from the usual state of the species. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 98 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+
+
+Chapter III.
+
+THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED BY
+TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS OR
+SPRINGS CALLED "CARAWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH
+THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART OF
+SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY
+EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST
+RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY
+CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT BANK.--
+ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH GRASS ON
+THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN RECONNOITRE
+THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A NATIVE.--TWO
+NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH THE ASSEMBLED
+POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE TRIBES.--CORDIAL
+RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE
+NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE
+BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY, CATTLE
+MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DEPOT CAMP AT
+A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM
+SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.
+
+5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two natives,
+brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the Narran,
+which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles we
+passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the left,
+which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of conglomerate
+rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains of quartz
+cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become undulating ground as
+we proceeded northward, and the surface became firmer. At length the
+country opened into slight undulations, well clothed with grass, and good
+for travelling over, the soil being full of the same hard rock found on
+the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the lowest parts of that
+river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed to be but the
+decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles of quartz so
+thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places so thickly as
+to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses grew on those
+plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm undulating
+stony surface and open character of the country, where I had expected to
+see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight
+elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a
+name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations TOO LOW to
+be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of
+route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much
+novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The ANGOPHORA LANCEOLATA
+was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some
+very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the ACACIA
+STENOPHYLLA of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such profusion
+as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I supposed it
+was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another place many of
+the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and learnt from our
+guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat resembled that of the
+Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Munumula is the native name. The grasses
+comprised a great variety, and amongst the plants a beautiful little
+BRUNONIA, not more than four inches high, with smaller flower-heads than
+those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely at all lobed, and a hairy
+indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although the fruit had been
+gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown, was also here; and I
+saw one or two trees of a species of CAPPARIS. Mr. Stephenson found a
+great variety of new insects also.
+
+[* B. SIMPLEX (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque
+longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,
+bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]
+
+Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some verdant
+grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water; and here
+we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds were called
+"Carawy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to pass on
+towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed, twenty-five
+miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some natives running
+off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we should do them no
+harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake them. The
+undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and west in
+their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general course of
+the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in other
+parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the
+fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much
+resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these
+springs we found a new HELICHRYSUM.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61 deg.; at
+noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 79 deg.;--with wet bulb, 65 deg..
+
+[* HELICHRYSUM RAMOSISSIMUM (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde ramosum
+arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis acutis,
+capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri
+squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]
+
+6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the excessive
+length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(161/2 miles by
+latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a beautiful
+cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of fresh branches
+of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted home of the
+fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods of the
+acacia already mentioned (Munumula). The water was surrounded by fresh
+herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such the home
+whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable guides, I
+could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon trample
+these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding verdure
+and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured but acute
+guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid race.
+
+[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may LAUGH inwardly--
+conscience may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]
+
+All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our
+drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting
+before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be
+watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question; and
+this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward to ask
+if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly exhausted. The
+fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in the morning, after
+passing a night without water, had been adopted, and as, on the day
+before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of reaching my
+camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly directed them
+to be brought forward; but the consequence of this derangement was the
+death of one, and much injury to many others. This contretemps arose
+wholly from the guides not having been understood at the Barwan as to the
+real distance, and this we had calculated too surely upon. Latitude 29 deg.
+52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68 deg.; at noon, 96 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+102 deg.; at 9, 83 deg.;--with wet bulb, 68 deg..
+
+7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had been
+watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 A. M. I left them in Mr.
+Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all the
+bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that had
+been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more. The
+guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had understood
+when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles from these
+springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the country to
+improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the most open parts of
+scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend clearly how desirable
+that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after travelling about seven miles,
+they pointed to a line of trees as the "Narran," beyond an extensive open
+country, which had a singular appearance from being higher than that we
+were upon. We crossed one or two slight elevations wholly composed of
+compact felspar in blocks--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of
+strata, whereof the strike always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious
+new plants and fruits appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of
+which was a very pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread
+over several yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an
+elongated egg; it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the
+natives "Doobah." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best
+roasted. As we approached the elevated country between us and the distant
+line of trees, we perceived that the vast level was covered with
+POLYGONUM JUNCEUM in a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as
+I had never seen elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called
+it, which looks ever quite dry and withered along the margins of the
+Darling. We had good reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we
+found amongst it pure water in great abundance, into which all our native
+companions immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This,
+they said, was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the
+name of Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps.
+They seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and
+pointed to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran
+was there. I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the
+nearest trees beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft
+mud, precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of
+bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now
+far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a
+position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the
+intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare
+materials for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a
+small clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did
+not encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by
+the westward, in which direction the open country extended to the
+horizon. The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by
+wet ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where
+horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had
+been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water
+until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.
+Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward to
+the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all
+the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays
+there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense
+heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the day,
+rose to 103 deg. in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp, 29 deg. 45'
+51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 97 deg.; at 4 P. M., 97 deg.; at 9,
+69 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 57 deg.. The height of this camp above the sea, the
+average of five registered observations, is 442 feet.
+
+8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most extensive.
+Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual appearance
+there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet still
+the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between that
+slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been so
+scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great
+distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no
+longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I
+set the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the
+muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed
+it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,
+beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp
+came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before
+us, which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the
+southward, was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual
+rock, felspar; and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded
+the further progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended
+north-west, as most others did in this extensive basin; and this
+direction being nearly parallel to that of the coast ranges further
+northward, seemed to afford additional reason for expecting to find
+anticlinal and synclinal lines, and, consequently, rivers, much in the
+same direction. D'Urban's group, distant 150 miles lower down the
+Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock, exactly similar to this,
+exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into irregular polygons, some of
+the faces being curved. This rock is most extensively distributed in the
+interior of New South Wales. It was not until the evening of this day
+that the approach of the drays was announced, and then prematurely, the
+teams only having been brought forward to the water without them. So weak
+were the unfortunate animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the
+numbers, could they be made to draw the drays forward, for the short
+distance of eight miles; a distance which we had been given to understand
+was so much greater. Forward, all was most promising, and it may be
+imagined how bitterly I regretted the alteration of my original plan of
+equipment, which had reference to horses and light carts alone. A new
+species of ANTHISTIRIA occurred here, perfectly distinct from the
+kangaroo grass of the colony, very like APLUDA MUTICA, and remarkable for
+the smooth shining appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The
+TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its
+long silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very
+curious new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of CYPERUS; the TRICHINIUM
+LANATUM in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed
+(CALAMAGROSTIS of England), and which proved to be the little-known
+TRIRAPHIS MOLLIS. On the margin of the morass the DACTYLOCTENIUM
+RADULANS, spreading over the interstices, reminded the traveller of the
+grasses of Egypt; and, in stony ground near the morass, we observed the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA of Brown. Thermometer at sunrise, 66 deg.; at noon, 98 deg.; at 4
+P. M. 102 deg.; at 9, 81 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 74 deg..
+
+[* A. MEMBRANACEA (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine membranaceis
+foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis pedicellatis
+(masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, arista glaberrima gluma 3plo
+longiore.]
+
+[** K. LANOSA (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis
+cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]
+
+9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to return,
+and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be extremely
+useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went forward
+this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our interpreter,
+all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine reaches of water
+appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to the northward, but
+which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp, abruptly terminated
+like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it went to, they
+pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp as the final
+depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the contents of a
+river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate so hot and
+dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which led us nearly
+due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on a good
+gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing a
+slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the
+shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we
+again came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for
+about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and
+lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and
+with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent
+grass. The PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a
+grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of
+paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly
+for the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles.
+I counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass
+only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow
+back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a
+very open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any
+other part of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of
+the natives; and these children of the soil were doing every thing in
+their power to assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the
+white man's cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives
+during the whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and
+I to see them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and
+not at all unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce
+us to the inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us
+further. The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost
+to prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75 deg.; at noon, 99 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 105 deg.; at 9, 83 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 75 deg..
+
+10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I
+continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but
+with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,
+through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the
+river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc.
+We were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no
+perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had
+examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and the
+dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and
+banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide
+said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp we
+kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.
+This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water our
+horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,
+under a temperature of 105 deg. in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently
+about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of
+perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on
+the level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very
+tired, however, and pointed to the large muscles of the RECTUS FEMORIS as
+if they pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the
+drays that had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring
+double teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity
+of our camp we found the TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, with heads of flowers
+nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near E. PULVERULENTA, but having
+more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall
+glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy KOCHIA was
+intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77 deg.; at noon,
+102 deg.; at 4, 107 deg.; at 9, 76 deg.;--with wet bulb, 71 deg..
+
+[* H. GLAUCA (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis
+oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grosse serratis, racemis
+apice aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]
+
+[** K. VILLOSA (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus
+villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]
+
+11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives, the
+tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the stockman
+on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that they had been
+very useful. I this morning examined the country to the westward of the
+swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could pass, and so avoid much
+soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the watery Narran penetrated into
+the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting there little hollows full of
+rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so unwonted amongst rocks
+characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one little hollow, to the
+westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two men with a pickaxe and
+shovel to have continued it through, and so to have opened a new channel
+for the passage of the waters of the Narran swamp, into the dry country
+between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 55 deg.; at noon, 105 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the jaded
+bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses I might
+have continued the journey. The very extensive country before us, which
+appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and irrigated
+by little canals winding amongst POLYGONUM JUNCEUM. This open country
+appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles, thence to turn
+eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to the Barwan. I
+regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to admit of our
+tracing its limits to the eastward.
+
+This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he
+strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and
+Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river
+which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,
+almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was
+already on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his
+account of the rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged
+to depend, even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.
+
+This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two platforms,
+to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp, could be passed
+without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the drays. The
+sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS),
+found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen feet long, two
+feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long, fixed at each
+end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled a wooden
+railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry both
+wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was
+filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,
+alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to
+support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge
+or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51 deg.; at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P. M., 107 deg.;
+at 9, 70 deg.;--with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays trundled
+across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in the event of
+an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable on our return.
+Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing over a gravelly
+bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The drays were slow in
+arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft and hollow, but by
+sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on the Narran.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 71 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 100 deg.; at 9,
+71 deg.;--with wet bulb, 65 deg.. The height of this camp above the sea,
+according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.
+
+14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance, to a
+distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I
+intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five
+miles, that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work,
+might have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however,
+again occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now
+it was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It
+really seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on
+bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until
+9 A. M., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran, after
+travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found the
+fragrant JASMINUM LINEARE in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a bulb
+which proved to be the ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM of Brown; a shrub ten feet
+high, in fruit, the CANTHIUM OLEIFOLIUM of Sir William Hooker; a fine new
+CHENOPODIUM, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*]; and a
+hoary variety of ACACIA LEPTOCLADA, or perhaps a distinct species, having
+a good deal of the aspect of A. DEALBATA, but the leaves and glands
+nearer those of A. LEPTOCLADA, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 70 deg.; at noon, 103 deg.; at 4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 81 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+75 deg..
+
+[* C. AURICOMUM (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,
+foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis
+lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris
+tomentosis.]
+
+15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding, that
+the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without great
+difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the
+drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a
+process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not
+until 1 A. M. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought
+to the camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the
+field of discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were
+unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive
+heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks
+unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter
+party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,
+leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depot, on
+some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29 deg. 38' 21" south.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 73 deg.; at noon, 84 deg.; at 4 P. M., 86 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 60 deg..
+
+16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend of the
+Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant grass. The
+drays arrived by 11 A. M. in such good order, that I was induced to try
+whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short journeys, the party
+could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I could leave the whole in
+one depot, to rest and refresh, while I took my intended ride forward.
+Latitude, 29 deg. 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 43 deg.; at noon, 86 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 87 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.;--with wet bulb, 55 deg..
+
+17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward as well
+as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the progress
+of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains were
+evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered wholly
+impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29 deg. 29' 11" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 87 deg.; at 4 P. M., 91 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft ground;
+all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising
+ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,
+at a distance of 21/2 miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual
+conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch in
+bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly
+ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.
+Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked, upon
+the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris
+forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.
+From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a
+good direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony
+ground I found a new PITTOSPORUM five feet high, with long narrow leaves,
+in the way of P. ROEANUM and ANGUSTIFOLIUM, but distinct from both in the
+form of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29 deg. 25' 21". Thermometer at
+sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 90 deg.; at 4 P. M., 96 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+61 deg..
+
+[* P. SALICINUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis
+acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus,
+fructibus subglobosis vix compressis.]
+
+19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank, our
+course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after travelling
+six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for the drays,
+but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward, and I
+contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again, by
+travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been marked
+out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found a
+fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five
+miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it,
+I returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude
+observed, 29 deg. 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57 deg.; at 4 P. M., 96 deg.;
+at 9, 71 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we proceeded in a
+nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than we had recently
+traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found amongst much
+excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of Anthistiria
+appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort, although
+this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains westward
+of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of moisture. Here,
+however, this variety presented the same knotty head, where other grasses
+grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme eastern turn of the
+Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks appeared in the bed, as if
+the river was passing through the stock of the gravelly ridge I had
+visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found about the basin of
+the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much felspar, and having
+pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of the conglomerate in
+the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at the edges. Here the
+poor natives had been very industrious, as was evident from heaps of the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE, and of the same redstalked coral-like plant,
+also mentioned as having been observed in similar heaps, on the banks of
+the Darling, during my journey of 1835 (vol. i. p. 238). I now
+ascertained that the seed of the latter is also collected by the natives
+and made into a paste. This seed was black and small, resembling fine
+gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was sweet and pleasant to the
+taste, possessing a nutty flavour.
+
+The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in
+these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft
+smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil
+bore the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and
+amongst them those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with
+the prints likewise of other BIPEDS, such as emus and kangaroos, and also
+those of the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other
+animals all new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man
+alone were familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other
+animals, simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much
+afraid of us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed
+strange, that in a climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise,
+the circumstances of man's existence should be the most degrading.
+Latitude of our camp, 29 deg. 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55 deg.; at
+noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.;--with wet bulb, 65 deg.. The mean
+elevation above the sea of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in
+number, was 477 feet; the bed of the river being about 15 feet lower.
+
+[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way To kailyards green, While faithless
+   snaws ilk step betray Whar she has been."   BURNS.]
+
+21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming
+favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some
+traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner
+Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded
+the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to his
+map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with gently
+sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances induced me to
+cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward, until meeting
+with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran, where we
+encamped in latitude 29 deg. 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at
+noon, 97 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 66 deg..
+
+22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the
+surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on
+Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded
+rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At
+one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a
+ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of
+compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which
+large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial decomposition
+of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them once more to the
+action of water. The force of those waters, however, had not been
+sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending right
+across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps, of a
+river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and terminating
+in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P. M., 98 deg.;
+at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 66 deg.. Height above the sea, 515 feet, from
+eight observations.
+
+23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,
+soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,
+almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we pursued
+a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the Narran
+at 81/2 miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,
+especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small bush
+bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among the
+sedges by the river we found the KYLLINGA MONOCEPHALA; and, on the rich
+black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with
+large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small
+bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of
+Brown's SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, or a new species distinguished by its narrow
+sharp-pointed leaves. The LORANTHUS LINEARI. FOLIUS was growing on the
+rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by the
+parasitical ORANGE LORANTH.[*] Lat., 29 deg.1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,
+51 deg.; at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P. M., 99 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.;--wet bulb, 63 deg..
+
+[* L. AURANTIACUS (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus,
+foliis oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve
+acuminatis glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio
+brevioribus ditrichotomis, floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis
+superne latioribus truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem
+geniculato, stigmate dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.]
+
+24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach the
+Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the
+Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to
+the northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn
+towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far
+from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary
+to descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn
+pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we
+had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low
+range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,
+covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller
+the most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached
+the Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had
+travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it
+was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the
+cattle should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to
+lose one day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals.
+Casuarinae now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks
+of the Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods
+we passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a
+different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the
+colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be a
+broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.
+We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,
+GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having
+long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*]
+The rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with
+yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed
+from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed
+amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,
+with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the
+bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.
+
+[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus
+pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]
+
+[** Loranthus LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus
+acutis carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus
+bifloris, calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6
+linearibus supra basin coalitis.]
+
+The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked
+Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29 deg. 6' 33"
+S.; therm. at sunrise, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 74 deg.; ditto with wet
+bulb, 62 deg..
+
+25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.
+Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate
+journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I
+found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its
+course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges
+on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came
+from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued
+northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed
+through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence descending
+in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs, and only
+reached the river after riding 21/2 miles in that direction. I saw a
+continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river
+bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where
+the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who
+did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from him,
+and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a
+beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on
+the bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back,
+until within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of
+the party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a
+species of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct.
+The teams brought the drays in, about 5 P. M.; one animal of all being
+missing. Therm. at sunrise, 72 deg.; at noon, 89 deg.; at 4 P. M., 91 deg.; at 9,
+60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in search
+of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and proceeded
+along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the party, having
+found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late encampment. The
+natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having previously set fire to the
+grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their fires, and encamped on the
+river bank in lat. 29 deg. 1' 57" S.
+
+A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow
+portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of
+withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the ashes
+of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass
+(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but
+constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the
+only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired
+on our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to
+drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both
+these kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me
+one of their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum,
+and tied with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it
+carefully where he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon,
+90 deg.; at 4 P. M., 95 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.;--with wet bulb, 60 deg.. The mean height
+above the sea of the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet.
+
+27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,
+which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks after
+a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the
+vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought
+by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more
+decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses
+against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the
+plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew
+abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of
+the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the
+immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an
+infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes
+happened, other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me
+to a distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great
+novelty to us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long
+before we crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang
+fruit (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed
+that we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as
+the quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat.
+28 deg. 55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70 deg.; at noon, 90 deg.; at 4 P. M., 89;
+at 9, 70 deg.;--with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+28TH MARCH.--At 2 A. M., loud thunder was heard in the south-west, where
+a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops of rain
+fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from S. W.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56 deg.. We proceeded, travelling chiefly amongst
+very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the westward of
+my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when on the
+other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its banks
+after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to place
+the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance, managed
+to prevent him from running away. He spoke only "Jerwoolleroy," a dialect
+which my native did not understand at all well. He told us, however, that
+this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to the Balonne. Upon the
+whole we gathered from him that neither that river nor the Bokhara was
+far from us. I endeavoured to convince him, by Youranigh's assurances,
+and our own civility to him, that we meant no harm to any natives, and
+were only passing through the country. He did not seem afraid, although
+he had never, until then, seen white men. We encamped near him. The river
+channel was very narrow, and contained but little water here-abouts. I
+understood from the native (through Youranigh) that the river here spread
+into various channels, and that "BARRO" was the name of a river beyond
+the Culg, which falls into it from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the
+lagoon on which we encamped after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near
+this camp we found a PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a
+SESBANIA near S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM
+AURICOMUM, formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.; at 4 P. M., 82 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 56 deg..
+
+29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr. Kennedy
+forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a more
+direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied by one of
+the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He returned in
+about four hours, having found the river coming from the northward, and
+he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer at sunrise, 48 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 81 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.;--with wet bulb, 47 deg..
+
+30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at sunrise
+only 42 deg.. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on over fine
+grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At length,
+about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there was
+one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only
+see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running
+north. We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran,
+after a journey of about eight miles.
+
+We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species of
+eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and other
+parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 83 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg.. Mean height of the camps of the
+27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet.
+
+31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed across
+the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary to
+see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not
+of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,
+branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main
+channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it
+again. Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every
+respect the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by
+observing the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of
+the current. We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with
+some lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I
+wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the
+ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where was
+the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were heard
+immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh and then to
+me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other was a lad
+of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne (BALONGO) as
+quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was quite evident
+from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper native name,
+but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an article they very
+often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in speaking of the
+Barwan, they say "Barwango." I had nearly completed the usual short
+journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was unwilling to lose
+the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on under their
+guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for the camp.
+This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them Tooningora, nearly
+on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with ducks. We had
+passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native friends, and over
+a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from scrub. It was
+evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I continued to
+follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the party to encamp,
+in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and the river Balonne.
+After going forward thus about four miles, we saw five gins running off
+at a great distance across some open plains, apparently near the river.
+The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I requested him to assure
+them that the white men would do no harm, and to tell them not to run
+away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared to carry unseemly loads
+across their backs, dangling under large opossum-skin cloaks, and it was
+evident that these were mummied bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but
+had not before seen it. I had then but a distant view of these females,
+as they resumed their flight, and continued it until they reached woods
+bounding the plain on the westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great
+Balonne river ran parallel to our march westward, and there also,
+according to my guides, was "Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and
+which spot I most anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials.
+Still my guides led westward towards the woods, and as we approached
+them, the shout or scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan,
+follower of my camp, first drew my attention to a black phalanx within
+the forest, of natives presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my
+interpreter halted and remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on
+his reaching that body, the sound of gruff voices that arose from it
+strongly reminded me of Milton's description of Satan's army:
+
+"Their rising all at once was as the sound Of thunder heard remote."
+
+Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by the
+other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those fellows
+were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our footsteps to
+the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo. Our guide soon
+overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange natives, who, all
+curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they brought with them a lad
+named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and had visited many of our
+cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to Youranigh, who but very
+imperfectly understood the language of the rest. They seemed upon the
+whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food consisted of the fish of
+the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon, CUCUMIS PUBESCENS,
+which grew in such abundance, that the whole country seemed strewed with
+the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives eat great quantities, and
+were very fond. It is about the size of a plum only, and in the journal
+of my first interior journey (in 1831), is mentioned as a cucumber we
+were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude of camp, 28 deg. 38' 47" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 42 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+57 deg..
+
+1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 A. M.,
+still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne. On
+our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy hollows
+could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in due
+form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party to
+halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on the
+right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other
+women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared, formed a
+circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to me. I
+desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way across the
+Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb them, etc.
+When all was said that could be said, and I was about to return, one of
+the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he must have learnt
+at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I returned the
+compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave. Soon after, we
+arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river as I have
+seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a slight
+current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less elevated
+above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel surpassed
+that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.
+
+We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was
+"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the
+natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,
+having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the
+first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had
+gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where
+he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered
+his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's
+conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to
+go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe,
+to other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without
+claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at
+such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us
+strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts
+of civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather
+rare. He had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the
+danger of sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our
+introduction by him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the
+bullock-drivers, found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut
+the banks, and fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches,
+and earth, for the better passage of the drays; a work they completed
+before night. I rode about five miles beyond the river to the north-west,
+and met, first with a very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level
+with the plains, and apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this,
+a river or chain of ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained
+was called the Cawan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The
+country was rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees,
+and the plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the
+Balonne, 28 deg. 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 75 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 79 deg.; at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54 deg.. Height of the bed of the
+Balonne above the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three
+observations.
+
+2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning in
+good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little bridge
+we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place seemed to me
+so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find some of
+the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the natives on
+this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks made by white
+men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank of the river, and
+was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns," the other with
+"Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was really at or near
+the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell had crossed, and
+found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles north-west, I
+determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that river, taking my
+track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad lagoon.
+
+On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with hoop
+nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He returned
+accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin, who had
+been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his nets,
+and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct us to
+the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a
+detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a word
+of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to overcome
+the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives, and their
+shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become our guide.
+He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles from the
+Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service and true
+civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron tomahawk, and
+I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for him to keep. He
+then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five miles off. This
+river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed than, the one we
+had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a principal
+river, and really looked more important than the Barwan, except that its
+waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees overhang the banks,
+and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I should say that these
+and much sand were the chief characteristics of the Culgoa. There were no
+recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed that they did not much
+frequent that part of the river. The grass along the banks was very
+luxuriant. Latitude 28 deg. 31' 19" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 39 deg.; at
+noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg.. The height of
+this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet above the bed of
+the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations.
+
+3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the
+banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our
+heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,
+however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 35 deg.; at noon, 80 deg..; at 4 P.M., 77 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.;
+and with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the Culgoa
+upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending along the
+right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was favourable to
+our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in exploring that
+river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we had crossed
+the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the south, to this
+river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and Fort Bourke.
+That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable, had the rains
+set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over the dry, firm
+ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the left bank of
+the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season, indeed more
+conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had fallen at this
+time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern interior;
+but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for some
+degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the Commissioner of
+the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we should arrive at a
+better watered country.
+
+Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which grew
+luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us of the
+banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact counterpart,
+only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa was more
+easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles northward,
+I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found the river.
+We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch biting into
+the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached the Balonne Major,
+or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from the Minor Balonne,
+both of which we had already crossed, and which ran thus, as from our
+camp the lines of trees along each of the minor channels were distinctly
+visible.
+
+The character of these rivers had been described to me by Commissioner
+Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the drays came in,
+and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind, having been suddenly
+attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged in the survey of our
+route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had somewhat abated, but
+still this complaint, which we had attributed to it, had lately affected
+many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr. Kennedy. Latitude, 28 deg.
+27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P.M., 88 deg.; at
+9, 53 deg.; with wet bulb, 47 deg..
+
+5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of
+the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an
+angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after
+passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded by
+a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and
+partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I
+found this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous
+course, impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got
+through it, only after contending with these impediments for three miles.
+The country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river,
+and I turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward
+two miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any
+river; but, on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was
+declining, and I turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction
+reached an extensive open forest, beyond which I saw at length the river
+line of trees. I continued to ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw
+our cattle grazing, and the tents, without having regained first, as I
+wished, my outward track. On the bank of the Balonne we found an
+apparently new species of ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish
+flowers, and in the scrub I passed through, in my ride, I found a
+CASUARINA, indeterminable in the absence of flowers or fruit. It produces
+a gall as large as a hazel nut. Thermometer at sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon,
+90 deg.; at 4 P.M., 94 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not proceed,
+as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep our
+account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much galled,
+and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not without
+some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching a point
+whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave the
+cattle to refresh in a depot on this fine river, which afforded an
+excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown
+regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously
+wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or
+Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part of
+the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the
+eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the
+Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of
+reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to
+the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I
+therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add
+in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,
+whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of
+encampment described.
+
+In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a
+broadleaved, white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,
+which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted
+species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New
+World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on EXOCARPUS
+APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and Frazer on
+Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at
+noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P.M., 96 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg.. Height above
+the sea, 497 feet.
+
+[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,
+fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos
+superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]
+
+7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I was
+informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud on
+the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was
+impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from
+having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our
+journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.
+Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest
+land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,
+even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got
+involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of
+E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees
+of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at
+an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the slopes,
+we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent, presenting a
+body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one other river of
+Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.
+
+This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor Balonne,
+came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe were heard
+in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly, having left us
+suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily ordered him away. I
+had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at night on the former
+occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of mischief, and could
+not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We desired no further
+intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with us did not
+understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose through
+that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my journey
+fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of this
+camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even now. I
+had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here, at a
+time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still
+uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled
+globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 97 deg.; at 4 P. M. 97 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.;--
+with wet bulb 57 deg.. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28 deg. 23' 59" S.
+(Camp III.)
+
+8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the river
+woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch, at
+first containing much water, and coming from the north, was on our right
+for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks of three
+horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if proceeding
+first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the river became
+dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw about a mile to
+the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of water on a
+level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of emerald
+green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a longer
+journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite water in
+its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy margin we saw
+still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to drink. The
+scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain. The ACACIA
+PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, and others,
+gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance of water about, all hands
+considered this a very fine country. At sunset, thunder-clouds gathered
+in the S. W., and at about 7 P. M. the storm reached our camp,
+accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the S. E. The lightning
+was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily. By 8 P. M. it was
+over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of Regulus, by which
+the latitude was found to be 28 deg. 17' 8" S. (No. IV.) Thermometer at
+sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 91 deg.; at 4 P. M. 94 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.;--with wet bulb
+63 deg..
+
+9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum, obliged me
+to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had already got
+further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river spread into a
+broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers having taken no
+notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where the carts had
+been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry the loads to firm
+ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this swamp for many miles,
+I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed the burning fires of
+natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on trees about. At
+length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the main river, where
+it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and sweeping round
+majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after a long journey.
+The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large fishes in it;
+ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black swans. This
+surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that such an
+enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else in New South
+Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The Anthistiria grew
+abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude, 28 deg. 13' 34" S. and
+marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P. M., 97 deg.; at
+9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,
+fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the
+river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris
+scrubs were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open
+and firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of
+large Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and
+gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a
+soft red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by
+far the best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft
+red sand being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as
+mud. At length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious
+lagoon, extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift
+marks, that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it
+as it trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about
+that part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods.
+That lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water
+could never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon
+dried up, which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant
+in the bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA
+MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 99 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+97 deg. at 9, 66 deg.;--with wet bulb, 58 deg..
+
+[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,
+stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi
+angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-
+pubescentitomentosis, bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis
+setaceis, legumine sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but
+flowers much smaller, in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects
+with the short character of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is
+not articulated on the footstalk, and the stipules exist.]
+
+11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right
+hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully
+falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,
+at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.
+This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered
+with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being
+near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true
+aboriginal name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more
+readily adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate
+amongst rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way
+about to my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay
+across my intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon
+the banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,
+having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very
+uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had
+once been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the
+swamp, the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the
+opposite direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently
+dry. On crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware
+that it is usually at acute angles in a river's course that such
+overflowings break out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn
+eastward, and even to the southward of east before I could find the river
+again. At length we came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand,
+where the waters took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents.
+I was now very desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to
+rest and refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This
+place did not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well
+tasted, and the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the
+natives, or by accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of
+the Balonne, and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO
+PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader
+leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of
+ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 102 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 104 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.; with wet bulb, 62 deg.. Average height above the sea,
+of camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.
+
+[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse
+sinuatoserratis integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque
+glaberrimis.]
+
+12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour, and
+soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water and came
+from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that had for
+some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes that this
+river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it
+maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of
+water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the
+course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of
+the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,
+consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have
+been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the
+same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite
+bank, and at once selected the spot for a depot camp, which we
+established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down
+the river. It was, in fact, a tete-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage
+which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in
+latitude 28 deg. 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 74 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with
+a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the
+river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my
+hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the
+stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of
+all in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a
+pair of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+47 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 67 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in the
+direction of 3311/2 deg., my intended route, and he returned about 10 P. M.,
+having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right when
+about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the whole,
+I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to travel
+north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course of
+this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher
+ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at 4 P. M., 103 deg.; at
+9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 67 deg..
+
+16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting
+water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of
+infantry than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded
+chiefly with water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were
+thus prepared to pass several nights without requiring other water than
+that we carried with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the
+scrubs, and reach, and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great
+basin. Our first day's progress, being rather experimental, did not
+extend above ten miles. I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse,
+and exchange him for a better, as our load of water was heavy. The day
+was very sultry. Thermometer 105 deg. Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed
+over ground more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 64 deg.; at 4 P. M., 105 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 67 deg..
+
+17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being my
+own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got
+forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they
+could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none
+was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,
+and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;
+and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar
+indication of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the
+white-barked gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of
+river trees, we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After
+completing about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses,
+where there was a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from
+our stock. The mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at
+all higher than our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore,
+not improbable that we might meet with some other channel or branch of
+that prolific river. After resting two hours we continued, passing
+through woods partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub.
+Towards the end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good
+grass, and having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of
+the character of the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very
+large kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks
+numerous. We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a
+grassy spot surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA
+of Banks, and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable
+whiteness appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which,
+on very close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On
+the plains the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose
+from its very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 71 deg.; at 9 P. M, 68 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to
+specimens of this brought to England:--
+
+"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell (or
+rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does not allow me
+to say much about the insect by which they are formed. It is an extremely
+beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I have yet seen, and is, I
+have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It is of a very peculiar form,
+resembling a very delicate, broad, and flattened valve of a bi-valve
+shell, such as the genus Iridina, the part where the hinge is being a
+little produced and raised, and forming the cover of the coccus which
+secretes the beautiful material just in the same unexplained way as the
+scale insects form the slender attenuated scales beneath which they are
+born. I could not discover any insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas
+Mitchell's production in a state sufficient to determine what it really
+is, as I only found one or two exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up
+insects. It is extremely brittle, and looks more like dried, white,
+frothed sugar than any thing else."]
+
+18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N. N. E.
+direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed that
+water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the other
+horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I found
+some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and which
+evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were then dry.
+Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall of rain
+water would remain there some time. On riding two miles beyond, in the
+same direction, I found open forest land only. The country was well
+covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We again proceeded
+north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was, however, only soft
+red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses drawing the
+watercart.
+
+On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different kind of
+country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or still more
+loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance, and the
+trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly. Instead of
+grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I
+afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRA), and one small, shrubby, brown
+bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike
+leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the
+firstmentioned plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in
+passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some
+birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They
+descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and
+seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp one
+fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my
+whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as
+those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and
+dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,
+especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the
+Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the
+DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the
+sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them
+elsewhere. The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much
+distressed. I continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a
+scrub in a clay hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country
+with more of the soft red sand. The people with the cart could not
+overtake me, and I returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I
+determined to encamp at some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our
+line, in latitude, 27 deg. 43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the
+barometer, we had not ascended higher than our depot camp on the river,
+at a distance of nearly forty miles from it. I had just quitted my
+horse's back, and had resolved to return, when two horsemen were seen
+approaching along our track. They were two of our party come from the
+depot to bring me a despatch, which had been forwarded by Commissioner
+Wright, communicating the news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port
+Essington, and enclosing the Gazette with his own account of his journey.
+Thus it became known to us that we could no longer hope to be the first
+to reach the shores of the Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+62 deg.; at 4 P. M., 93 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode forward
+along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me, until the
+cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite exhausted by the
+heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 86 deg.; at
+9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having been
+ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depot, I sent our tired
+animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited quantity
+of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh horses about
+half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of another light
+cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage towards the head
+of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.; at noon, 95; at 4 P. M.,
+93 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 58 deg..
+
+21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 A. M. The morning was cloudy, for
+the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three or four
+days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have explored
+by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great river,
+the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I had
+just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended, had it
+been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground, whatever
+it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 65 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 77 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;
+--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the
+temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial
+column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated party
+engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of our
+late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the colony
+lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.
+direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as
+he went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,
+during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a new
+creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr. Bentham has
+named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 77 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 56 deg.. Mean elevation of this camp
+above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623 feet.
+
+[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis
+pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis
+elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus
+approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine
+molliter villoso.]
+
+[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis
+subangulatis, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late
+obovatis summisve linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis
+v. oblique mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis
+uninervibus tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris
+solitariis subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus
+truncatis, legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and
+possibly a mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably
+broader, and the inflorescence different.]
+
+
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY--LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS AND
+DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--DISCOVER A RIVER
+JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE THE
+BALONNE UPWARDS.--FINE RIVER SCENERY.--VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO THE
+EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.--TRIBUTARY FROM THE NORTH-WEST--
+AND RICH PLAINS.--TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.--EXCELLENT COUNTRY FOR
+GRAZING PURPOSES.--MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE NORTHWARD.--NATIVES
+AT OUR CAMP.--ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.--MOUNT INVITING.--ASCEND MOUNT RED
+CAP.--RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.--
+THE BOTTLE TREE.--ASCEND MOUNT BINDANGO.--DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER
+"AMBY."--DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF A CAMP.--RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-
+WEST.--ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.--A GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND
+FOR THE CARTS.--SMALL RIVER DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF
+WATER.--THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS ON OPEN FLATS.--DISCOVER THE RIVER
+MARAN.--SELECT A POSITION FOR A DEPOT.--RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE
+NORTHWARD.--RIDE INTO THE WESTERN INTERIOR.--ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.--
+EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--WATER NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.--RETURN TO THE
+CAMP.--ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE EASTWARD.--VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS
+OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.--CAMP VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY
+ABSENCE.--ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.--HIS
+ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."--VARIOUS
+PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--DEPOT CAMP
+ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.
+
+23RD APRIL.--Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight men,
+two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three light carts
+with provisions for ten weeks--determined, if possible, to penetrate
+northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the division of
+the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view, to trace
+upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to the north-
+westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west, and thus
+acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the watershed
+towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to follow my track
+with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out on Monday, the
+4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks' rest.
+
+The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or
+hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each side.
+I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river.
+Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub;
+but came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque.
+Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm
+clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the
+river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27 deg. 56' 12"
+S. There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long
+islands of sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The
+bed, in most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous
+conglomerate, or clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass
+was excellent and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick
+scrub crowned these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my
+examining the other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the
+ENOCARPUS SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the
+beautiful parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of
+Eucalyptus. Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg.; at 9 P. M., 47 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 41 deg.. [* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman numerals
+those afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track with the
+main body.]
+
+24TH APRIL.--Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction was
+N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild and very
+fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of water, in
+wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that sometimes
+moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines were wild,
+the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still inclined
+as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted finely with
+erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with perpendicular
+rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown, contrasted
+most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey driftwood, blue
+water, and verdure by its margin; all these again--grass, verdure,
+driftwood, and water--were so opposed to the dark hues of the Casuarinae,
+Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a Gains-borough, might
+there have found an inexhaustible stock of subjects for their pencil. It
+was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.
+
+"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air, And scarce a human image
+plac'd he there."
+
+May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we may
+also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their
+sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be
+brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine
+perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy
+margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by scrub. At
+length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see along
+each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up that
+nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of
+natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was
+grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain."
+This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but
+finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at
+length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I
+could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river;
+marks of high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other.
+It might, and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but
+this seemed too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed
+it, to look for the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain
+bounded by trees that looked like those along the river. No time could be
+spared for further reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for
+the nearest part. My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in
+following the various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen
+miles beyond the point where I met with this river, that I reached the
+bank of the other, at a spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had
+quitted it. This was only accomplished at forty minutes after 4 P. M.,
+when we had travelled twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was
+likely, if followed by Mr. Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay
+and inconvenience, I resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the
+subject, explaining how he could most readily fall into my track by
+crossing the other channel, quitting first the other track, at a spot to
+be marked by Graham, who took the letter. Nevertheless, it had been
+imperative on me to follow it up as I had done; because, whether as a
+separate tributary or an ana-branch only, the right bank was likely to
+suit us best, provided only that water could have been found in its bed.
+Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of Linnaeus, with its spikes
+of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM.
+Lat. 27 deg. 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at 9 P. M., 59 deg.;--with
+wet bulb, 56 deg..
+
+25TH APRIL.--
+
+"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers, And heavily in clouds brings
+on the day."
+
+A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a
+contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy, and
+Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of the
+other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my
+track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in
+an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and
+buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks on
+trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to
+examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the
+day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and,
+in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible
+difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+65 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P. M., 66 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--with wet bulb, 63 deg.. Mean
+height above the sea, 586 feet.
+
+26TH APRIL.--Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depot camp at 1 P.
+M. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind from the
+west arose about 3 P. M. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 78 deg.; at 9, 56 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+27TH APRIL.--The party set off early. We found that a river from the
+north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from
+the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I
+determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and
+water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of the
+first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after
+following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode
+northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten
+minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I
+could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27 deg. 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+37 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P. M., 72 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 55 deg..
+
+28TH APRIL.--Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river bed
+like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here broke
+through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S. W.,
+it seemed probable that the general course from above might be parallel
+to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches large,
+full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant
+grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered with
+the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a delicate
+grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also here
+observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W., and
+whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel
+northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again,
+cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its
+course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have
+rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during
+the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had
+been in England during the same month. Latitude 27 deg. 32' 37" S. The
+direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long
+sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered
+available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface of
+the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river,
+attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor
+features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they
+had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 69 deg.; at 9, 48 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+29TH APRIL.--The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into
+gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent me
+from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or
+pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy
+margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all
+seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I
+was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress
+along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I
+could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in
+a gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge
+like that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday,
+doubtless the product of the late rain, and probably from these clay
+gullies. After a circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow
+over-looking much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies,
+but could easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we
+encamped as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27 deg.
+28' 27". One of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree,
+discovered vast plains in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river
+line pursuing a northerly course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung
+over what he supposed to be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 63 deg.; at 9, 47 deg.; with wet bulb, 44 deg..
+
+30TH APRIL.--Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came upon
+open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the rugged
+gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north, with
+sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all
+fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the
+river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a
+high scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large
+lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see.
+It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native
+huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27 deg. 20'
+S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our
+youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+65 deg.; at 9, 43 deg..
+
+1ST MAY.--On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the river,
+we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground broken
+into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin of
+this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage
+elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it,
+we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and
+could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards
+northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains,
+bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw
+still the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the
+cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us
+improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward,
+with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W.
+From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains
+extending before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low
+rise to the N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each
+containing deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the
+river; we encamped near it, in latitude 27 deg. 15' 4" S. As we approached
+this spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then running off--
+Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of his own. I
+endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they made off,
+setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of these parts
+might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they would at length
+come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at 4 P. M., 67 deg.; at 9, P. M.,
+48 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+2D MAY.--There was a decided difference between the river we were now
+upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by
+which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small
+tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the
+westward, while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst
+plains, reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was
+the principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather
+difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses
+lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the
+water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable
+breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the woods
+back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's bed,
+but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we could
+have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river, passing close
+to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next change of the
+river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the receding bergs
+guided me, even when only seen at a considerable distance, in shaping my
+course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I travelled far along a
+grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing water like chrystal,
+and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western shore consisted of
+shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated on its eastern
+extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N. W., we at
+length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous
+channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more
+like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus
+waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of
+the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just
+beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were
+erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open
+iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather
+peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also
+undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we
+were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77 deg., also a hill to
+the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333 deg.), he
+saw also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at 4 P. M., 62 deg.;
+at 9 P. M 57 deg.; mean height above the sea, 694 feet.
+
+3RD MAY.--Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and we
+perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the morning.
+Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party bearing a green
+branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to our tents.
+One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite absorbed in
+observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently overcome all
+their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and without any
+kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With steady fixed
+looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances, what passed
+in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages. On the
+contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look of good
+sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence, could we
+but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor did they show
+any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the smallest of which
+might have been of use to them. There must be an original vein of mind in
+these aboriginal men of the land. O that philosophy or philanthropy could
+but find it out and work it! Yuranigh plied them with all my questions,
+but to little purpose; for although he could understand their language,
+he complained that they did not answer him in it, but repeated, like
+parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same manner, they followed me
+with a very exact repetition of English words. He, however, gathered from
+them that the lake was called "Turanimga," this river "Cogoon," a hill to
+the eastward "Toolumba," etc. They had never before seen white men, and
+behaved as properly as it was possible for men in their situation to do.
+At length we set out on our journey, and in mounting my horse, which
+seemed very much to astonish them, I made signs that we were going to the
+mountains.
+
+Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The deep
+ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was small, in
+comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed to say we
+had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers." Malga
+scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of these
+forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that impervious
+sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making straighter
+cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was, however, now
+rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a tributary to
+the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us, pursued a
+tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29 deg. and 27 deg., coming
+round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last three days we
+had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of north-west; in
+which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect that we should
+soon find mountains.
+
+As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded, with
+Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw through
+the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I
+perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the
+south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the
+northeast, like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight
+to me then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west,
+the object of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had
+before seen these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still
+undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this
+hill Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from
+its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was
+felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat.
+27 deg. 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9 P. M.,
+45 deg.;--with wet bulb, 43 deg..
+
+4TH MAY.--An Australian morning is always charming,--amid these scenes of
+primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or GYMNORHINA, the
+organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller bird, whose notes,
+resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the only sounds that
+met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such sounds in other
+climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning in this. "The
+rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the perfume of the
+shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and the tints and
+tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The light red tints
+of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the white stems of
+the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early morning, still
+slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in the most
+pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally fine, from
+the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate willow-
+like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees, the
+mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there is
+a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most
+brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter
+morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are
+equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the
+savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from
+thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence.
+
+Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had seen
+whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found myself
+on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest, so that
+I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges clothed with
+dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and descended towards a
+fine open country, on which pigeons were numerous, and traces of natives.
+It was also sloping to the northward, and I had no doubt that we had
+passed into a valley which I had observed yesterday from Mount First
+View, and had supposed it contained a larger river. In the open ground, I
+found a small rocky knoll which I named Mount Minute. From its summit, I
+recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing 128 deg. 30'. We next passed through
+some scrub, and came to a hollow full of Acacia pendula. Following this
+down we arrived at a chain of ponds, and these led to an open grassy
+valley, in which we found our old friend, the river, still pursuing,
+steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along the bank, for a mile or
+two, we found that these now consisted of fine open forest flats; and at
+length encamped on the margin, after a journey of about twelve miles.
+Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite bank, first standing in mute
+astonishment, then running away. I held up a green bough, but they seemed
+very wild; and, although occasionally seen during the afternoon, none of
+them would approach us. We found on the banks of this river, a purple-
+flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*] Lat. 26 deg. 57' 39" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 70 deg.; at 9, 37 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+34 deg..
+
+[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis
+alternis oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo
+longioribus, floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.]
+
+5TH MAY.--The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession,
+colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19 deg. E., yet
+the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open air,
+seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere, extreme
+cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So, also, in the
+opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so accustomed to a
+higher temperature than 100 deg. F., that any degree under that felt
+refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the little river was
+still very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks at the westerly
+bends; from which side it was also joined by a small tributary, with
+ponds and hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of the POLYGONUM
+ACRE. Still, however, the main channel could be distinguished from these,
+and the open forest flats along its banks became more and more extensive
+and open as we ascended this channel,--leading so directly where we
+wished to go.
+
+Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub,
+but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with
+callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through.
+I rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from
+Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be
+removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond,
+there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of
+felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular
+polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and
+W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26 deg. 54' 16" S. It was only
+during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any
+indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than
+that of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the
+difference was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or
+seven millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the
+sea being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19 deg.; at 4 P. M., 67 deg..
+
+6TH MAY.--The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the slopes less
+abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a mixture of sand, at
+a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it occupied a section of
+considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards between bank and bank.
+On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest land, Youranigh drew my
+attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of trees, which he showed me
+had been deposited there by floods. As they were of a growth and size
+quite disproportioned to other trees there, I was convinced that they
+were the debris of floods; and, consequently, that a vast body of water
+sometimes came down this channel. This native was taciturn and observant
+of such natural circumstances, to a degree that made his opinion of value
+in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which of two channels, that
+might come both in our way, might be the main one; thus my last resource,
+when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el parecer," as they say in Spain,
+of this aboriginal, and he was seldom wrong. At length, the cheering
+expanse of an open country appeared before us, and a finely shaped hill,
+half-covered only, with bushes. On reaching an elevated clear part, I saw
+extensive downs before me. The river turned amongst woods to the
+eastward, and I continued on our route to the north, sure of meeting with
+it again, as some fine forest ridges hemmed in the valley to the
+eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned (which I named Mount
+Inviting), there was a curious red cone some miles to the westward,
+crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to plant my theodolite.
+After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of Acacia pendula
+which gradually changed to an open forest, within which I met with a
+chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26 deg. 46' S. I immediately set out,
+with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red Cap, distant from our
+camp about six miles. This little red cone had a very singular
+appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark tinted scrub of
+flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of which the light
+and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy plain. I found the
+red rock to be the common one of the country, in a state of
+decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal, whose tracks
+had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling us to lead our
+horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an extensive view of
+the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood to the verge of
+the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of picturesque form,
+and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the direction whence we had
+come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more continuous ridges; and,
+towards the extremity of them, I could just recognise Mount First View,
+this being one of the distant cones I had seen from it. I took as many
+angles as the descending sun permitted, and then retraced our horses'
+tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at 9 P. M., 47 deg.. Height
+above the sea, 747 feet.
+
+7TH MAY.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open
+forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula,
+in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward, now
+anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we
+found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds
+skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my
+ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge.
+From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little
+wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the
+centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good
+pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to
+follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from the
+west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open downs,
+and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in neither of
+which could we find any water, and had consequently to return to the last
+of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country towards
+the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26 deg. 42' 27" S., thankful that we
+had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and to discover so
+fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+8TH MAY.--This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21 deg. in my tent,
+a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen indicated from
+my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which was not frozen,
+neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in splendour; pigeons
+cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods. The business of the
+day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine open country to the
+westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for a higher branch of
+the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region could not be
+deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen of the range
+to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E. in about two
+hours we came upon the identical river we had so long followed up. It was
+accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had its rounded bergs;
+reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left bank. Crossing it I
+rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs, in hopes to obtain
+a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found that to be
+impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an elevated
+north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it beheld the finest
+country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A champaign region, spotted
+with wood, stretching as far as human vision, or even the telescope,
+could reach. It was intersected by river lines from the north,
+distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass arose in the
+midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W. and N. E.
+direction, as to deserve the name of a range.
+
+A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S.
+E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that
+variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks
+of a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole
+country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton
+Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an
+elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend
+the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to near
+the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by
+rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear
+leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I
+was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater, although
+the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes there were
+different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me, seemed
+chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by no
+means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in
+Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around
+them. Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The
+trunk bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the
+diameter at the ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches
+above. These were small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole
+tree looked very odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that
+I was convinced this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A
+still more remarkable specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in
+the apex of a basaltic peak, in the kind of gap of the range through
+which we passed on the 15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying
+drawing.]
+
+These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like
+hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*]
+Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the
+rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly
+covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even
+after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau,
+so thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward
+towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down than
+that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the Cogoon, I
+passed between the two summits, and found a good open passage to the
+westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at noon,
+70 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 30 deg.. Height above the sea 1043 feet.
+
+[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of
+Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with
+respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it
+more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These
+are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate,
+mucronate, smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and
+lined with a thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also
+closely covered with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold
+the seeds together firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the
+upper half of the seed, whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining,
+smooth, and marked with a brown nipple, the remains of the foramen.
+Within the primine lies the bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite
+loose, and seems as if it were independent of the primine. Eventually the
+end of the thin brittle primine breaks like an eggshell and the secundine
+falls out. The seeds themselves, remaining attached to each other and to
+the follicle, resemble six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half
+a dozen brown eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young
+have escaped through the point.
+
+Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir Henry T. De la Beche,
+as president of a Society which has greatly encouraged him in his
+Australian researches; and in honour of a science which has occasionally
+thrown some light on his dark and difficult path. It may be
+scientifically described as follows:--
+
+DELABECHEA.
+
+CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ...
+STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longe stipitati,
+intus stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili
+cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita,
+inter se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINA laxa, tenui, fragili,
+apice foramine incrassato notata, SECUNDINA crustacea, demum libera
+chalaza magna circulari notata. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria.
+
+DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS.
+
+ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM album, laxum,
+mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate) maximis faciem
+internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis medullaribus tenuibus
+equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata, integerrima, in
+petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia, subtus pallida et
+quasi vernice quadam cinerea obducta. INFLORESCENTIA axillaris,
+trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque
+tomentosus.
+
+The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is soft, and
+brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very large
+tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half across;
+they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When boiling water is
+poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly, resembling tragacanth,
+is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass; iodine stains it brown, but
+not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No doubt the nutritious quality
+of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is apparently of the same
+nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree of Sierra Leone
+(STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA).
+
+It is not a little remarkable that the barrel-like form of the trunk
+should be almost exactly paralleled by another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA
+VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It
+seems, however, that a tendency to a short lumpish mode of growth is
+common among the order, as is indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which
+is almost as broad as it is long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-
+Cottons of tropical America.--J. L.]
+
+9TH MAY.--The thermometer stood at 19 deg. in my tent this morning, yet no
+ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that branch
+of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track for Mr.
+Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about two miles
+to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a trench cut
+across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a letter for
+Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour which might
+have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our track from the
+south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the direction of
+the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a due north
+line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for our river,
+as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and the woods
+quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The watercourse,
+soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and these at last
+were found to contain no water, when we had completed our day's journey.
+Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still distinguish my
+rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the general direction
+of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W. We were still much
+to the southward of the line so observed, apprehending, as I did think
+then, that some tempting plains might take us too far along some western
+tributary. Riding in search of water, I perceived a column of smoke to
+the northward; and, taking the party in that direction, we found, in the
+first valley we fell in with, a chain of ponds, and in one of these water
+enough for our use, whereupon I gladly encamped. This day we discovered a
+new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark in small angular pieces.[*] Latitude,
+26 deg. 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4 P. M., 74 deg.; at sunset, 63 deg.. Height above
+the sea, 1299 feet.
+
+[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis
+breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis
+reticulatovenosis, nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris
+axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.]
+
+10TH MAY.--Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land. The
+sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the open
+country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the scenery,
+and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a level
+woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country from
+any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is every
+thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water, when in
+the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went forward this
+morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of our friendly
+river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some of its highest
+sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain before us,
+over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a dry bushy
+hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have encamped, I
+perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of it, which
+was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more readily I
+got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down. This,
+opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The
+welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the water-
+course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains, gracefully
+fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I crossed a bare
+grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw luxuriant white
+trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same colour (PSITTACUS
+GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water, beside which we
+encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a beautiful Loranthus,
+which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly discovered by the
+indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now described by Sir William
+Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 38 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 34 deg..
+
+[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis
+oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis
+tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis
+axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis
+nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis
+linearibus.--Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were
+subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.]
+
+11TH MAY.--I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with axes, and
+one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with thick scrub
+interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way almost any where.
+I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on throwing down a few
+of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view over the country to the
+northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain. Beyond these, valleys,
+also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one side to the S. E., on
+another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a rather elevated
+tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain with a range just
+dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley descending towards the N.
+W., seemed to me to be the head of a river likely to pass through a
+remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the view did not extend. To
+the westward a woody, and rather level country appeared, from which I
+thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs between them, descending
+towards the N. W. river.
+
+Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my
+theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise,
+that the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I
+stood, and that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still,
+the only greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due
+north. Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass
+through? Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern
+and southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident
+from columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral
+ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward. That
+was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found an
+interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I
+resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the
+remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them much
+resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and
+returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found
+eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my
+absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a tomahawk
+to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little could be
+understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his. We did,
+however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned from, was
+"Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyego; and the
+ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped, "Tagando;" all very
+good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at once in my notes and
+map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre, and had a few feathers
+of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their foreheads and beards.
+These simple decorations gave them a splendid holiday appearance, as
+savages. The trio who had visited us some days before, were all
+thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and their white teeth,
+constantly visible, shone whiter than even the cockatoo's feathers on
+their brows and chins. Contrasted with our woollen-jacketted, straw-
+hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care, it seemed as if nature
+was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of the sons of art. Sun
+never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than these children of nature
+appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine powerful fellow, whose voice
+sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if his very whisper might be heard
+half a mile off. The old man remained by our fire all night; the others
+who, as I understood, were all his sons, had departed about 11 P. M.,
+having left their gins in the vicinity. Thermometer, at sunrise, 22 deg.; at
+noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 59 deg.; at 9, 35 deg..
+
+12TH MAY.--I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river
+flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount
+Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found
+the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a
+river, with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short
+way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from
+one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from
+which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This water
+was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to which
+I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to
+expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.; at
+noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 59 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with wet bulb, 51 deg.. Height above
+the sea, 1168 feet.
+
+13TH MAY.--I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party
+crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet
+above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy
+downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two knolls
+projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode to
+one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was the
+first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from
+their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyego, which I had not leisure to examine then, also
+consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one
+hundred yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with
+trees wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely,
+CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next
+descended to a separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the
+north-west. Instead of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been
+doing, and finding them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main
+channel, we were now to follow one downwards, with the prospect of
+finding it to increase as we proceeded. The relief from the constant
+apprehension of not falling in with water was great, as each day's
+journey was likely to show additional tributaries to our new found river,
+and, of course, to augment the supply. The old native at Tagando, had
+pointed much to the north-west, frequently repeating the word "MARAN;"
+whether that was, or what was, the name of this river, remained to be
+ascertained. A sweet breeze from the N. W. met us as we descended the
+slopes, and thus it was that white men first passed in that direction,
+"AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA." Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon,
+75 deg.; at 4 P. M., 64 deg.; at 9, 43 deg.. Height of camp above the sea, 1226 feet.
+
+14TH MAY.--The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I
+crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the
+country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the
+time I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap.
+We passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we
+had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before
+me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in
+that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass,
+and wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me,
+however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had
+thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been
+called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in
+advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went
+forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We
+found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which
+was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all
+to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to
+my native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the
+tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He
+handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to examine
+my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that convinced
+him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the river was
+called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then, for the
+first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that this
+might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu as
+civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I
+perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing
+more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild
+tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the
+tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a thought
+which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart upon our
+goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to desist from
+his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way, contrive to cheek
+the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a loud whisper
+of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was no music in
+this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous sandstone,
+whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the eastward. A
+gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which was steep
+towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone) afforded me a
+view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about it. I
+perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the country
+was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed marked out
+by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and watercourses
+fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still the
+country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills,
+clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and
+dells between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot
+of the finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of
+route, to the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we
+wanted water, but on following a little channel about a mile downwards,
+we found in it a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further
+down this channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of
+my newly discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I
+was almost convinced that it would have brought me into this very
+country, had I come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26 deg. 17' 8" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 35 deg.; at 4 P. M., 80 deg.; at 7 P. M., 71 deg.; at 9,
+48 deg.. Height above the sea, 1150 feet.
+
+15TH MAY.--My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning, to
+natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp. Some
+time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped, with
+head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside my
+after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big
+savage of yesterday.
+
+Hamlet might here have exclaimed--
+
+"What a piece of work is man! ... ..... how infinite in faculties! In
+form and action how like a QUADRUPED! In apprehension, how like a DEVIL!"
+
+There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be
+the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This
+savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were
+concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had
+been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably,
+drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in
+the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet
+whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted,
+expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud
+JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp.
+My horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different
+direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know
+either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity
+of frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other
+way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree,
+with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and Yuranigh,
+both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill, whence I found
+that a great number had just retired, leaving even their opossums still
+roasting on the fire;--they having, in a very brief interval, by rapid
+strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard their shouts
+in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate retreat--
+aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing behind
+some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with the
+business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a
+low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of black
+ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so that it
+might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it on the
+south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to give
+birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we were
+encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the Bottle tree,
+represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this range, and
+in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the country
+westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a
+watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and dry
+ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the
+commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this
+downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew
+our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a
+pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and
+the ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently
+in the same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to
+bring forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the
+country beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and
+the country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+38 deg.; at noon, 82 deg.; at 4 P. M., 82 deg.; at 9, 43 deg..
+
+[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature
+behind a tree.]
+
+16TH MAY.--We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the
+carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively
+on the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque,
+while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more
+importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along the
+creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find water
+at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26 deg. 15' 24"
+S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.. Height above
+the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;--of this camp, 1256 feet.
+
+17TH MAY.--Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I could
+move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone
+ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it
+would), to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping
+valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were
+clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and
+found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height
+afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to be
+chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon,
+and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the
+course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat.
+I descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could
+find no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine
+grassy flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising
+ground, on the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the
+inhabitants of the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek
+turning towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious
+open flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our
+further progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I
+perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards
+it, observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching
+a large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below
+these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the
+blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond
+that could not have lasted long,--here I saw at once secure, a firm
+footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it
+went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully
+as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N.
+to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far
+on our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with
+other streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course
+downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just deserted,
+the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left
+suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp
+under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its
+final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research. I
+returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a
+permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.; at
+4 P. M. 75 deg.; at 9, 49 deg..
+
+18TH MAY.--Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to trace,
+with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays
+coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the
+country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well
+covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to
+the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap
+behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we had
+descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we had
+just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I
+sought a good position for a depot camp on the newly-discovered river,
+and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W.,
+overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and
+having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and
+firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke
+and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as
+much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being
+removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the kangaroos
+come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this camp, 26 deg.
+12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40 deg.; at 4 P. M., 78 deg.; at 9, 57 deg..
+
+19TH MAY.--I could now venture to halt a day without any apprehensions
+about leaving sufficient water for the party who were following us; and I
+had recently obtained many angles I wished to put together, in order to
+learn the character of the country, which required much study. That I
+should have overlooked an extensive country, without perceiving any
+indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at my feet, seemed
+a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of its ultimate
+course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the chief
+elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount Red
+Cap, Bindango, and Bindyego, to the high ranges nearer the coast. That
+the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby), and
+flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of basaltic
+rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango and the
+northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side, and that
+the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered. Where was
+the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters were full of
+fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46 deg.; at
+noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 65 deg..
+
+20TH MAY.--The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded us
+some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration
+during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a sudden
+change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during the
+journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48 deg.. F. Yuranigh contrived to
+catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of the rivers
+in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river could belong
+to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 48 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 45 deg.; at 9, 45 deg..
+
+21ST MAY.--The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me to
+ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west,
+in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the
+river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests,
+and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too
+loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three
+channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in
+ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass
+(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees
+being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind,
+but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly
+on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as
+they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally
+strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions,
+such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this
+summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the
+highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80
+miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line
+of smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and others
+to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon
+presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded
+from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level
+horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap
+was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye
+ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending
+eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote distance;
+in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives. I
+returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had
+observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore,
+still look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that,
+for the heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the
+river, resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west
+of it. They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an
+extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken
+into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27 deg.; at
+noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+22D MAY.--This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20 deg.; and in
+the open air, at 12 deg.. The river was frozen, and the grass was white with
+hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before us, I
+resolved to form a depot with our drays and heavy equipment here, and to
+await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The spot
+was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr. Kennedy
+with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively the
+character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather apprehensive
+that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this point; and I
+was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for continuing
+the journey, without dragging them any further through the heavy sand. It
+was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be obliged to
+remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a journey, when
+horses and light carts might have enabled me to have pursued it to a
+conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+55 deg.; at 9, 27 deg..
+
+23D MAY.--The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and to
+receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of
+ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great
+height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further
+course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp; and, in
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With this
+view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it
+from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I
+ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without
+difficulty, or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the
+western side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent
+gradual, through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the
+Yarra gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the
+ACACIA CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA
+MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark, and
+stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh; who
+remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney. But
+deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the
+direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length,
+we approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but
+quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I
+turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it
+pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going
+far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this
+interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the
+furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward,
+extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river
+would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance
+from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of
+their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I
+passed this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing
+our guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that
+they had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the
+river bank. These people had no clothing,--the mercury stood at 19 deg. and
+20 deg. F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely enough
+to have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns. Yet, under
+such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to them,
+these human beings were so contented and happy, that the overflowings of
+their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human nature in a wild
+state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on the contrary, I
+was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that, much as I wished
+to learn the original name of this interior river, and something about
+its course, I forbade any of the party from taking any notice of these,
+its original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the natives, had also
+taught me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the camel. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 12 deg.; at noon, 52 deg.; at 4 P. M., 56 deg.; at 9, 32 deg..
+
+24TH MAY.--I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about two
+miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already
+mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great
+distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last
+evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly waving
+my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and several
+others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a similar
+manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man on
+horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the summit, grew
+the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood, that I was
+obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree on the
+summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of platform on
+the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there appeared some
+open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its apparent
+course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P. M., 67 deg.; and
+at 9, 30 deg..
+
+25TH MAY.--Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if
+possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some knowledge of
+the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my work was a
+conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the projecting
+extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range), and that its
+basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the sandstone cliffs on
+this side. But the course downwards still remained a question, which
+diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper course to come
+from where it was my wish to go. I resolved, nevertheless, while thus
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my ride of the 23RD MAY, and
+ascertain whether it could turn westward under the southern cliffs, the
+only direction in which it was likely to be available to us, downwards,
+at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M. 68 deg.;
+and at 9, 38 deg..
+
+26TH MAY.--Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I retraced my
+former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the dry river bed,
+where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone gullies, where
+one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to pursue; and
+this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open forest of
+iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of the same
+felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan basin; the
+soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard
+leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and,
+further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue
+distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually
+accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search
+of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on
+a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA
+PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best
+kinds of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good
+pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile
+beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as we
+could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to find
+the river, and the rocky country over which we had come. Westward, the
+downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated conical hills,--
+the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing westward like a
+limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that barrier the
+river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the river, I
+found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five miles
+further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs, but I
+saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally amid the
+long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of native
+inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we hastened
+back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which happened to
+be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at noon, 72 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+71 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
+
+27TH MAY.--We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I had
+seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak appeared
+to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W., and in that
+expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately recognised two of
+my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo miles
+respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous range on
+the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined to be
+only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only
+westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a
+long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as
+accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in
+sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and
+although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at
+the far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more
+probable, from the general slope of the country, that it was only another
+tributary coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who
+alone stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate
+of the rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not
+to be found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me
+know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it
+been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then that
+it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked
+much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the
+twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land
+around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of
+the hills--half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and
+vales--or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least there
+seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer of
+nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its
+sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from
+that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in
+that direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill
+overlooking that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable
+geological friend. We reached the depot camp in the evening, and found
+all well, only that a very tall and powerful native had been
+reconnoitring our position during the day, from various trees commanding
+a view of it; probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always
+happened to be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party
+was absent, as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at noon,
+79 deg.; at 4 P.M., 68 deg.; at 9, 59 deg.; with wet bulb, 50 deg..
+
+[* Probably the Nive. See INFRA.]
+
+28TH AND 29TH MAY.--My ride westward had enabled me to intersect more
+points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate
+country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying
+down points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I
+gain a satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however,
+I was convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depot
+camp, was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey.
+The arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important
+desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and
+continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil
+beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy
+drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly
+time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and other
+obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my reconnoissance
+northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen miles, and bearing
+271/2 deg. E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.;
+at 4 P.M., 79 deg.: at 9, 65 deg..
+
+30TH MAY.--I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of
+excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit
+consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was
+much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of those
+remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had since seen
+them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'-back
+crest of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other heights.
+The girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and only
+sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same kind, a
+very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality, seems
+to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the kangaroo is
+remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I am sure,
+remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood being so
+light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or tomahawk,
+might live by the side of one without other food or water; as if nature
+in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary places,
+had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must contain a
+great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to contain as
+much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great number of
+seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds; and, from
+the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a bird on a
+rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of this tree
+may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds being the
+favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed probably
+requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may
+grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and
+satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to the
+southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount Lonsdale):
+the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in the S. W.;
+and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward, beyond
+which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were just
+visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's
+course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing, and
+the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such
+occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from the
+N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or
+towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected
+various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus
+connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango, Mount
+Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some almost
+clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and seemed to be
+also connected with those stretching towards Bindango, and separating the
+basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country. A hill similar to
+that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the interior side of
+it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The valley at the
+base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA; and there
+was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped not long
+before, but in which no water then remained.
+
+[* A new genus, since named DELABECHEA.]
+
+On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left
+it in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing,
+each, several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by
+two females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under
+arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to
+the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures
+motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before
+the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal
+speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses.
+Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they
+advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at a
+distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned
+round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that
+vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old
+soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first
+sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon
+after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to
+approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest
+following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite
+with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he
+continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities,
+and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also,
+by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial
+description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the
+white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a
+spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the
+one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the
+other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed
+more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above, the
+other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more
+remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave
+strict orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be
+allowed to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the
+natives; that no ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there.
+Nothing could be more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor
+more courageous than his appearance before our more numerous party, with
+his spears and open defiance; and I was determined to take every
+precaution to avoid a collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during
+our probably long residence here, our people from doing them any harm.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 22 deg.; at noon, 60 deg.; at 4 P.M., 63 deg.; at 9, 31 deg..
+
+1ST JUNE.--The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded from
+the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach of
+the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line;
+and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health.
+The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again
+proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depot here.
+Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him, for
+twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from the
+N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of
+Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their
+attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is
+from his own notes:--"At 1 P.M., an old native, accompanied by five
+younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and when
+within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably their
+chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest.
+Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received here,
+that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve that
+good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance, according
+to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green bough, and
+endeavoured by signs to make them leave:--finding that of no avail, I
+presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of bread.
+After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand, and
+taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence they
+had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid them
+farewell. As the others still remained in STATU QUO, I went through the
+same ceremony with them until they were all on their path homewards.
+Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I flattered myself that
+I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that we did not wish them
+beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at 4 P.M. a large number
+of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and children, came boldly up
+and encamped within a few yards of the tents, and two hundred more were
+reported to me by Mortimer as being at a short distance in their rear. I
+gave strict orders that no man should go near them, and I mustered the
+party myself at 8 P.M. Shortly afterwards, three or four natives came
+down to our fires, and on the men saying that they would not be made to
+leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and shewed them their own
+camp. One tall young native in particular, wearing an opossum cloak,
+exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I continued to watch their
+movements until half-past eleven, P.M. up to which time they were talking
+very earnestly, continually repeating the words "white fellow." I had not
+retired to my tent five minutes when I heard Baldock (one of the two men
+on watch) several times desire the natives to go back, who, as it
+appeared, would insist on coming forward to our fires. Serjeant Niblet
+then called me, saying he thought "all was not right," that the natives
+refused to keep away, and that he had seen the fire sticks of others
+approaching from several directions. On turning out, I found them making
+a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of our tents, and the
+grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their mischievous work. I
+called to them in the language of some of the aborigines, to go away
+quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but seeing that they still
+drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger of the camp, I
+desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their arms, to
+charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received orders. We
+succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm, one or two
+shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I had
+given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind them,
+all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them that we
+had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the cattle
+brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning watch, and
+no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of the treacherous
+nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic of the
+aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct of our
+neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was likely
+to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit that
+position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr. Kennedy
+to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could not keep
+pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so numbered, the others
+marked being those where his party had passed the night. This depot camp
+was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such others of mine as have been
+marked between this and VIII., shall be added to this journal, and the
+whole marked on the map. A new species of CALLITRIS appeared among the
+trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the large leaved variety of ACACIA
+DECORA, further removed than usual from the common form, and approaching,
+in some respects, to A. RUBIDA. Among the bushes was the beautiful little
+A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its little heath-like leaves, and among the
+grasses was remarked an abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with
+extremely minute flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 18 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.;
+at 4 P.M., 64 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligula nulla nisi
+squamula quadam, panicula effusa ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque
+scabriusculis, paleis truncatis altera 3-nervi altera binervi.]
+
+2D JUNE.--Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over two of
+the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of the
+journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration of
+flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of
+mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I
+now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring
+carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd,
+formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to this
+point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner Mitchell,
+accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such passages as the
+following:--"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir Thomas Mitchell
+now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We understand the intrepid
+Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition to the Gulf, keeping
+to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not very encouraging to
+us, certainly; but we work for the future. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11 deg.;
+at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+3D JUNE.--This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river,
+which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus
+tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It
+is therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr.
+Wm. M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the
+Barwan. The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed
+to be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was
+thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily
+watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle
+at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate
+protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very
+particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be
+allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use them
+very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible,
+respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+16 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 66 deg.; at 9, 34 deg..
+
+
+
+Chapter V.
+
+CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE
+FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR
+BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE TRIBE.--
+HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER FROM THE
+WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE N.W.--DETERMINE TO
+FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS
+THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN
+AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH SCRUBS, AND OVER
+SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL
+DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--
+ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE RIVER WARREGO
+DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT.--MOUNT
+FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE NOGOA.--
+COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF SCRUB,
+IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN DOWNS.--
+BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT MUDGE.--
+LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.
+
+4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr. Kennedy adieu,
+for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my party and light
+carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left this zealous
+assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in departing on a
+hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the population
+might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left, predominated
+with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and repassing
+through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a length
+of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to be
+assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning and
+treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we parted
+in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a hope, I
+must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of pleasure,
+looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to encounter,
+and considering the state of my own health.
+
+The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and
+delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;
+therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day,
+and go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter
+journey. This was only of six miles from the depot camp. Amongst the
+waterworn pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of
+coal and the rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its
+concomitant strata. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16 deg.; at 9 P.M., 40 deg..
+
+5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to the
+river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and
+convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I accordingly
+sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr. Kennedy, and
+with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring forward one of
+the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry channels of
+tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight, like the
+main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable point to
+encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there gullies
+rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the
+intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to
+contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to
+the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was very
+open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of water,
+forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from north to
+south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked XXXI.,
+last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24 deg.; at 4 P.M., 70 deg.; at 9,
+43 deg..
+
+6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,
+confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of
+course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the
+time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had
+now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical
+work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have
+had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men
+were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel
+was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26 deg. 6' 25" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 30 deg.; at noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 50 deg..
+
+7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as
+we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with water-
+courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious impediment. At
+length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range, and a long ridge
+appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely, following up the smooth
+clay floor of a water-course, I found myself gradually entangled in a bad
+scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After cutting our way through it, for a
+mile and a half, I sought on the other side for any hollow leading off
+water, and found one which brought us into an open forest flat with a
+fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula appeared on its skirts; and, at
+length, abundance of water, also, in the ponds. The grass was so
+luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped beside it, without seeking
+the river, to which these ponds seemed adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+36 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 70 deg. (XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet.
+
+8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was very
+fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating country
+intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics. At
+length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the west.
+Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main
+channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I
+was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although
+its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round even
+from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it, obliged me
+to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid them. We
+thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably level,
+and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed a
+water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,
+where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole
+nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I
+approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle
+from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on
+this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 36 deg.; at 4 P. M., 85 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.. (XXXIII.)
+
+9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I considered
+that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet weather;
+and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in which I
+wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to explore the
+country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest. Little
+rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of hay,
+but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I found
+a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful
+clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few bushes,
+by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and endeavoured to
+talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh, who was with
+me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his language, and in
+vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this unintelligible parley at
+some distance, (for they would not come close up,) we rode on. We came at
+length on a sandy country with much Callitris, but the whole surface was
+undulating, and we crossed several chains of deep ponds, all falling to
+our right, or eastward; some containing water. At length, I perceived on
+the right, a deeper valley, and found in it a little river with a rocky
+bed, and coming from the N. N. W. At two miles further, along my N. W.
+course, I found it crossed it, coming from W. S. W., and here I turned,
+well pleased to find an abundant supply of water, and a good country in
+the best direction for our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on
+rock, and the water was plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the
+evening, after sunset we were called to by a numerous tribe of natives,
+assembled on the opposite steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we
+had encamped. By the particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had
+seen in the morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was
+evidently their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil
+in the bud, and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in
+line before the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced
+steadily up the opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud
+jeering noise. They set up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced
+to the brow of the cliff, as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently
+ascended, they fell off, and, by the time we gained the height, they had
+retired to a considerable distance, still shouting vociferously. Two,
+however, were seen drawing round our left flank, in a little gully,
+followed by a female carrying spears. I discharged my rifle over their
+heads, upon which they hastened to their fellows. On firing another shot
+over the dark noisy mass before us, they became suddenly quite silent,
+probably persuaded that we were really in earnest. We marched through
+their camp, made a feint, by descending into a gully, of coming upon them
+unawares, and continued there, until silence and darkness secured our
+peaceful occupation of the ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and
+noise, which might have been kept up until morning, and until they had
+worked themselves into that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think
+they have courage to fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up,
+they were sure to have followed us, and gathered a savage population in
+our rear. Lat., 25 deg. 54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+70; at 9, 50 deg.. (XXXIII.)
+
+10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession Creek, for
+so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until we filled a
+hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of yesterday. Thus we
+reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding much heavy sand in
+the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest point I had previously
+visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 39 deg.. Height
+above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)
+
+11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were obliged to
+turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction whence the river
+came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of only 31/2 miles,
+and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I thus came upon the
+rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording an easy means of
+crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only passable place I
+had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere. The strata at
+this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced me to travel
+westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner, a synclinal
+line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We passed
+through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable
+elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained
+grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds
+falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water, whereupon I
+returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at 9 P.M., 38 deg..
+Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)
+
+12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with
+ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a
+yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of
+waterworn pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a
+silicious petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse
+track of yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which
+grew brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we
+came upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew
+the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10
+feet. I found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was
+here 1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further
+on were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became
+overcast with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight
+showers fell. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at noon, 74 deg.; at 4P.M., 73 deg.;
+at 9, 60 deg.. The wind and clouds came from the west.
+
+13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the northward;
+nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again lose westing,
+until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W. The morning
+was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to gall the
+necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that
+direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow, rosewood,
+and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and continuous. I
+fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course there was
+from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more sandy,
+although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the
+northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it
+ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had
+almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then
+burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I
+therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make
+much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg.; at noon, 57 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+54 deg.; at 9, 48 deg..
+
+[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles
+further would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the
+head of the river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]
+
+14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a
+change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were
+filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and
+took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered
+rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began
+to think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following
+down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25 deg. 47'
+28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52 deg.; at noon, 55 deg.; at 4 P.M., 57 deg.; at 9,
+38 deg. (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.
+
+15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its channel
+became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few miles
+below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in one part
+of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it would
+have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the S.S.W. I
+thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path was thus again
+crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then travelled 121/2 miles,
+and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the day's journey, with little
+exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but for the rain that had
+fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and oxen. As it was,
+they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river, Mr. Stephenson
+caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a circumstance almost
+proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We found this day a new
+narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with bark thick, soft, and
+fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA was loaded
+with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods. Among the herbage was observed
+the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the
+light dry sand. Novelty in the plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be
+expected; the weather was cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment
+tolerably efficient. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.; at 4 P. M., 58 deg.; at 9
+P. M., 46 deg. (XXXVII.). Height above the sea, 1827 feet.
+
+[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus
+mucronatoacuminatis supra glabris subtus subsericeis marginibus arcte
+revolutis, paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-
+tomentosis. These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every
+other species.]
+
+16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river I
+had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th instant.
+The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning was
+about 21/2 miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and even
+south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there was a
+little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I had
+intersected from the high station east of the depot. It now bore 12 deg. west
+of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country
+would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris was,
+as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand between
+them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its course,
+consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when their
+direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of
+encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be found
+in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for water, I
+found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at 9 P.
+M., 54 deg.. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.
+
+[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis
+canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis
+superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus
+parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis
+concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very
+distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid
+hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant,
+but very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]
+
+17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain already
+mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick forests of
+callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open places
+amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground was
+undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of these
+ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at length
+attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the summit I
+ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond it, we
+came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we greatly
+wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon
+hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy
+flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous
+but dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this
+downwards about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the
+sandstone cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks.
+Ascending at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above,
+and an open forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up
+at a rocky point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the
+Maran, convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far
+off. We descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry
+watercourse lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river.
+Here, however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform
+breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W., and
+I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,
+however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and the
+sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up
+the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found
+some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,
+which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for
+our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards
+until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without
+drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent
+throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from
+30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams
+might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained
+a vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was
+rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with
+rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make
+the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst
+the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I
+found, growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected
+by Allan Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of
+Hunter's River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on
+the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at 9 P. M., 61 deg..
+
+18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly
+refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal
+Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the
+bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until
+he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst
+the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the
+summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my survey,
+lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was unimpeded by
+gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive view,
+embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of volcanic
+cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the direction
+of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little could be
+seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies, by which
+the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint in a long
+line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed thus to
+pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges about the
+25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden from my
+sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I had
+ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance bounded by
+low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides, like cliffs,
+towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke, indicated a
+good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station, that
+eastward of the depot camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then
+attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the
+officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the
+summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,
+and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at
+a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could
+be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for
+which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race as
+had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science, and
+the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the world
+to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names were
+applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do honour
+to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a bald-
+forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to
+the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,
+Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished
+to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,
+Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all
+sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on which I
+stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as to
+form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,
+"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes
+grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst
+them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On
+returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a
+spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;
+having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal
+Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:
+thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds in
+the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the
+crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the
+horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more
+water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to
+the north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible
+from the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had
+found, in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone
+gullies radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards
+Mount Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of
+mountainous obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the
+principal features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for
+our carts in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first
+establish the party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it
+along the range towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be
+necessary, in order to turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking
+some rocky gully within a convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again
+to explore these recesses for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's
+pond in the main channel. Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two
+beautiful and delicate ferns, the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM
+ASSIMILE, the Australian maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA
+CUNNINGHAMII, on the rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a
+variety of E. SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise,
+56 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 63 deg.; at 9, 55 deg.. Height above the sea, 1578
+feet; and above river bed 40 feet.
+
+[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
+longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis)
+reticulatovenosis. This species is remarkable in the size and shape of
+its petiolated leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences
+(galls), each with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as
+many unequal projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of
+some BEGONIA.]
+
+19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the grass for
+our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, the
+sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's track
+towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which broke
+abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to the
+right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
+river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
+valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
+horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had already
+found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water sufficient for
+the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down the valley while
+they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile from the camp.
+The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this one, were dry.
+Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent quality. Pigeons
+were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) which is so great a
+luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the feathered race. The
+highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day appeared (by Captain
+King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. That of the camp over
+the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of these cliffs above the
+bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 50 deg.;
+at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 61 deg..
+
+20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the country
+beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest land, and a
+less broken country, in a direction much further to the westward than the
+course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I now proceeded W.N.W.
+towards that open forest land. We found the country open for some miles,
+then, entering a flat or valley, I descended gradually between sandstone
+rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep ponds led to the north-west.
+On following this down, I found it turned more and more to the westward,
+and at length to the south-west, whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy
+banks, and, following up a ravine from the other side, again endeavoured
+to pursue my intended course. We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a
+sandstone range, and descended by another valley which led first
+northward, but terminated in joining a spacious grassy flat with dry
+ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this downwards for several miles in a
+rainy evening, and found at last, to my disappointment, that this also
+turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and hemmed in by low rocky points
+of ground, of very uniform shape. Many marks of natives appeared on the
+trees, and, in good seasons, it must be one of their favourite spots. I
+left it, however, when darkness and heavy rain obliged me to look for
+shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. By the time we arrived at
+this, we could see no grassy spot for our horses, nor any sort of cover
+for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a fallen tree, and under this,
+covered with a few boughs, we lay down on the wet earth for the night,
+being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, water for ourselves and
+horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67 deg.; at 9,
+57 deg..
+
+21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we should
+have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of well filled
+ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment to this
+journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were unavoidable.
+On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine open forest
+hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of Mount Owen,
+had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak induced me to
+approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little water-course
+in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the product of last
+night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the deviation from my
+route. A group of the most picturesque hills imaginable lay to the
+northward, and were connected with this, the whole being branches from
+the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep blue colour, where their
+clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly of a golden hue, from the
+rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke through the heavy clouds and
+poured rays over them, which perfected the beauty of the landscape. I
+recognised, from this apex, my station on Mount Owen, and several hills I
+had intersected from it. Amongst others, the three remarkable cones to
+the westward of Mount Faraday, apparently a continuation of the line of
+summits I have already mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal
+trap in nodules, the crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of
+lime, and there were many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round
+shot, strewed about. A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest
+part, and, on this summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by
+local attraction, and quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket
+sextant, and with it took some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily
+enjoyed a breakfast, and named the hill which gave us the water, Mount
+Aquarius. Returning towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived
+at the head of a gully which led tolerably direct until we found our
+track, in the creek I had run down on the preceding day. But night was
+approaching, and we had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern
+before which a large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night
+there in my cloak, I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at
+the camp, at 4 P. M., had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer
+to 22 deg., or 10 deg. below the freezing point.
+
+22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
+determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
+original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
+neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a
+passing shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
+Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, from
+the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that summit
+to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of the
+Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land seemed the
+highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's Table Land. I
+could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix it in my map.
+I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the northward, and
+a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country beyond, through
+which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to prepare for a
+"raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 27 deg.; at noon, 52 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 59 deg..
+
+23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled nearly
+northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large kangaroo
+entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in avoiding those
+on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, showed me that
+this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to Mount Clift from
+my former observations, and therefore followed it by keeping between the
+heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found one favourable for
+a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, valley, extending
+about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes evidently held much
+water, although they were then dry. This soon, however, turned to the
+south-west, evidently to join the channel I had before explored. Quitting
+it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended sandstone cliffs and pushed
+through scrubs, determined to proceed directly north-ward, until I met
+with valleys falling north-west. We thus passed just under the most
+easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, about sunset, to a hollow
+containing ponds, in two of which we found water. Here we gladly
+bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and were numerous higher up
+the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P. M., 50 deg.;
+at 9, 40 deg..
+
+24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
+frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
+which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
+Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
+after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing
+feature, (especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley
+descending to the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water
+holes, and in two of these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The
+course, throughout all its windings, was towards the north-west, and this
+I, at the time, thought, might be a northern water. I therefore returned,
+anxious to bring the party thus far, at all events, and resolved to
+follow this little river down. We arrived, on our way back, in the
+evening of the same day, in the valley I had quitted in the morning,
+having followed down a water-course from the end of Hope's Table Land,
+under which I had passed, in search of a good way for the carts. Although
+we had seen promising ponds of water in this little channel, we could
+find none in the lower part, having in the expectation of finding some,
+rode on until darkness prevented me from going further. We were thus
+obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) without water, and almost
+without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern where I had slept a few
+nights before, especially when I arose here in the night to mend the
+fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt afterwards that at
+the camp, the thermometer at 4 P. M. had been as low as 17 deg. of
+Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at noon, 51 deg.; at 4 P. M.
+49 deg.; at 9, 29 deg..
+
+[* This was 15 deg. degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much more
+easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
+moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
+Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated 7th
+April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
+
+"With a temperature of 20 deg. below the freezing point, we found the ice to
+form so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the
+barrier in so extremely severe a period of the season being
+impracticable, we stood away to the westward, for the purpose of making
+another attempt to approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude
+(76 deg. S.) on the 15th February."]
+
+25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
+minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
+rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
+not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
+bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
+stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
+the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount
+Clift, or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country,
+should be preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the
+eastern gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift
+than at the point where I before came down. But I found them much more
+acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
+rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
+called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
+from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
+its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
+towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us upon
+the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
+looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
+and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
+discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
+dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! However
+that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding water. In the
+neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were collected; viz.
+NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES TENUIFOLIA,
+ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with HOVEA
+LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, a low
+shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small species
+of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a verdant
+fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small red
+berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
+appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
+being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have been
+an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost tomentose
+above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus DODONOEA,
+frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its flowers.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 12 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at 4 P. M. 51 deg.; at 9, 22 deg..
+
+[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus,
+foliis obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque,
+capsulis tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
+
+26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
+finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
+course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed the
+barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be 700
+feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
+to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel
+along its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had
+bivouacked on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before
+sunset, encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which
+were two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the
+horses nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered
+out of buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
+abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
+cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14 deg.;
+at noon, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M. 47 deg.; at 9, 37 deg..
+
+27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to come
+directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
+bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
+possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
+within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left,
+and some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
+encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
+cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
+way, about 3 P. M., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced with
+our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up by
+sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
+extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very
+luxuriant, apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately
+to the westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
+bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was open
+along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along its
+sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and various
+remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, forming a
+shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 20 deg.; at 9 P. M., 29 deg.. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
+
+28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the ordinary
+weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the barometer also
+indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I sent the party
+forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to the ponds in the
+newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I proceeded myself,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the fine cone already
+mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and extensive view of the
+mountains further northward. Most of the summits I had previously
+intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just appeared over an
+intermediate woody range, through which I was at a loss to discover where
+our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the north-west, I could
+just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills arising from a much
+lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever might be the final
+course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and water. The most
+important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a grey misty tint, as
+if it marked a valley descending from the highest eastern mountains,
+towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. Bare crests of
+similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole extent of that
+valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in such a clime,
+with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if watered
+well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it was
+fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended consisted of
+trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at its base, and
+on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact felspathic rock
+which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has been considered a
+very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an altered rock. Here,
+in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to break into
+irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; and I
+observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side lay
+uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60 deg.. That this is a hypogene
+rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident
+at Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
+affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
+had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM ELLIPTICUM.
+I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since ascertained, by
+that officer's register and calculations, the height of this summit above
+the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 feet.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 25 deg.. (XXXIX)
+
+29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water (coming
+from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left bank of
+the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged me to
+make some detours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we regained
+the banks of the river, although our progress was not considerable. Its
+general course was still north-west, to the spot selected for my second
+camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks high, rounded,
+and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel was rarely to be
+seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent temporary showers
+seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I ascertained the
+variation of the needle to be 8 deg. 4' E. here. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. Height above the sea, 1914 feet. (XL.)
+
+30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the
+southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered
+with scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the
+carts along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did
+not proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged
+us to abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
+projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
+direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the bank,
+southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
+directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained
+a view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
+and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
+this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of
+smoke seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but,
+towards the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this
+disappointment. Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an
+intervening woody range, there indicated a much lower and different kind
+of country, as if that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern
+waters; the woody intervening range appearing to be the division between
+them. As our last explored river again turned southward, it seemed
+reasonable to expect, beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing
+a different course. This range was plainly traceable from the high
+mountains more to the eastward, and was continuous westward to three
+remarkable conical hills, beyond which, the view did not extend. On the
+same range, a fine tableshaped mountain appeared nearly north. This I had
+already intersected from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The
+hill on which I stood consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the
+western extremity of Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards
+found by Mr. Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That
+ravine was extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The
+bottle-tree (Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it,
+in the stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One
+thorny tree or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again
+appeared here; it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf
+somewhat like the human hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright
+scarlet colour, about the shape and size of a French bean. This,
+sometimes grew to a tree as much as a foot in diameter; and the natives,
+who, like Nature herself, may be said to do nothing in vain, had cut one
+down, and carried off the whole of the trunk. The wood was of a leaden
+colour. This proved to be a new species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*]
+By our last day's journey, we had lost two miles of northing, and had
+thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south latitude. I therefore
+determined to cross our friendly little river, and look for another
+beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon,
+68 deg.; at 4 P. M., 65 deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. Height above the sea, 1732 feet. (XLI.)
+
+[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
+foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
+lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although
+no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the
+pod and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad
+and not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings
+extended.]
+
+1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to look
+into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
+western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
+into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
+that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
+into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
+to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
+clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I
+take him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out,
+and ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
+accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran
+northwest, and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow
+it then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
+back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
+to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
+way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to me.
+One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other or
+any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave to
+this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
+side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
+Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
+none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
+particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved
+ironbark, was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
+leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered lead-
+wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant among the
+grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was producing its
+small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow leaves and globular
+fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new CAPPARIS.[**]
+Thermometer, at daybreak, 35 deg.; at 9 P.M., 38 deg..
+
+[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis
+obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus
+subsolitariis.]
+
+[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,
+foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus
+aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,
+stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]
+
+2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I had
+been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it widened
+very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a deep
+current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices seemed
+to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most picturesque
+outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us, resembled pyramids,
+and I saw an open country beyond them, from which other summits of
+extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we had found no moisture in the
+ponds, and lamented that a country, in every other respect so fine,
+should be without water. Further on, I perceived reeds in the hollow of
+the valley, and Yuranigh said there must be a spring, upon which he
+walked in amongst them, but still found the earth dry. The reeds at
+length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at the lower part of the
+flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to examine that point. He
+emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a distance, made Douglas, my
+other man, say, "He has found water." He had found A RUNNING STREAM, to
+which he had been guided by its own music, and taking a tin pot, he
+brought me some of it. The water was clear and sparkling, tasting
+strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that this was the head of a river
+that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of picturesque beauty and pastoral
+abundance, within eighty miles of the tropics, we had discovered the
+first running stream seen on this journey. I returned, determined to
+bring the party thus far, and with the intention of passing that night
+where we had found water in a rock about six miles back, that we might
+sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had also the benefit of a
+cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we defied the frost of a
+very cold night, the thermometer having been registered at the camp, at 3
+A.M., as low as 7 deg.. In the scrubs we had passed through in the morning, a
+variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA, with grey velvety leaves, was
+scarcely in flower; and I observed a beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS
+with large tubular flowers.[*] The ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the
+sandstone ground above the gullies, and a broad-leaved form of the
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone brightly, and the rock being full
+of silver mica, the splendour of the scene imparted to my eye and mind
+then a degree of gratification far beyond any associations of the richest
+furniture of a palace. We found it impossible to get our horses to the
+water; but we hit upon an expedient which answered even better than a
+bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak.
+
+[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi
+in petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis
+acuminatis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra
+medium soluta.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines
+long. Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]
+
+3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and found
+an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at the
+camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part of
+the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14 deg.; at
+noon, 60; at 4 P.M., 61 deg.; at 9, 26 deg.. Height of camp above the sea, 1800
+feet. (XLII.)
+
+4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this morning.
+Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the banks had
+been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance we hit
+upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy valley
+descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky crooked
+part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub directly to
+the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the valley, and
+arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of my
+bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by Arcturus)
+to be 24 deg. 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at 4 P.M., 49 deg.; at 9,
+38 deg.. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)
+
+5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze our
+tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We proceeded
+along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which appeared quite
+isolated, and just such as painters place in middle distance, I named
+Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of the right bank of
+the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had suddenly
+brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we had before
+us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards the country we
+were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country seemed new to us.
+The barometer showed we were rapidly descending, and I expected that our
+living stream would soon join that greater stream, the basin of which I
+thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from Mount P. P. King on
+the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the others, curved round
+from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in mountains equidistant
+between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it was reasonable to suppose
+that we had at length crossed the division between northern and southern
+waters. That between eastern and western waters was still to be
+discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where water was so scarce
+then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means of determining
+where that division was. If the general course of this river was found to
+be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that the dividing
+ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the westward of
+north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our route, and
+this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing north-
+westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King. Latitude
+24 deg. 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+49 deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. Height above the sea, according to sixteen observations,
+1421 feet. (XLIV.)
+
+6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA appeared
+amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods below, we found
+an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA (Reichb.) VAR.
+MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was less angular, and
+the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long hoary leaves,
+and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA, at a later
+season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also was found
+here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**] Travelling along
+the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of sparkling water
+to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could only account for
+the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a season, by the
+support of many springs. We made sure of water now for the rest of our
+journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et labetur in omne
+volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any I had ever seen
+in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals in ruins; others
+forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and contrasted with
+the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a fine stream in the
+foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole country. It was a
+discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those beautiful recesses
+of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown. The better to mark
+them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of Salvator Rosa.[***]
+The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the thick woods, just as
+John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them out in his beautiful
+sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature come so near these
+creations of genius and imagination. Where we encamped, the river was
+very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that the use of a bucket was
+necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding every precaution, one
+animal walked into the river, and could not be got out without great
+difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were two enormous eels,
+beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus lay abundantly on the
+banks, about the old fires of the natives. These were larger than either
+those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran; and although such
+freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a peculiarity in these was
+pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they much resembled the
+impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is much broader at the
+toes than at the heel). We here met with a new species of BORONIA,
+resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties afterwards occurred.
+It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale purple flowers.[****]
+A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining leaves, also grew
+here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed resembling
+European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with white
+flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS formed a small
+shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at 4 P.M., 49 deg.; at 9,
+38 deg.. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.
+
+[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus
+supra glabris subtus incanis, panicula terminali tomentosa, floribus
+distantibus.]
+
+[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis
+oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris
+trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime
+pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6
+linearibus glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]
+
+[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and
+ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on
+mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]
+
+[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis
+pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus
+subsolitariis axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]
+
+[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis
+falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis
+subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis
+solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel
+brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia
+shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually
+almost sessile.]
+
+7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon
+found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in
+one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush
+mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the
+current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the
+hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most charming
+morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an open forest
+which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and in a general
+direction about north-west. At length we approached the northern limits
+of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it, as we had
+reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry channel, which bore
+the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons. Following this dry
+channel down, I found its course turned to the northward, and even to the
+north-east. When we were disposed to encamp, I could find no water in the
+bed, nor were we better off when we had encamped, until Corporal Graham
+dug between two rocks therein, and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in
+one day vanished the pleasing prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of
+a stream flowing in the direction of our intended route. This might be, I
+then thought, the tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would
+be found to flow westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the
+desired north-west direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+58 deg.; at 9, 25 deg.. (XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.
+
+8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this
+river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling
+into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick
+brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged
+gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,
+induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined
+to penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that
+there I might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction,
+or, if not, cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was
+lost, however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses
+crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The
+scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings
+admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of
+sunset, I found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only
+half a minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with
+difficulty, about two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of
+a small watercourse, I found that even this turned south-east, evidently
+to fall into the reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I
+determined on an immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back
+to our friendly river. It was comparatively easy to return through the
+opening we had made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so
+that by twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the
+river, and near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying
+almost in my face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we
+afterwards found the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of
+the bullocks got bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole
+strength of the party dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+18 deg.; at 4 P.M., 54 deg.; at 9, 25 deg.. Height above the sea, 1241 feet.
+
+9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the
+scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and
+the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24 deg. 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 14 deg.; (in my tent, 18 deg.;) at 9 P.M., 48 deg..
+
+10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight
+eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to
+cut a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.
+While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but
+met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that
+direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.
+towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined
+them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through
+open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy
+gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.
+Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the
+border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24 deg. 33'
+25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 58 deg.; at 4 P.M., 62 deg.; at 9,
+29 deg.. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.
+
+11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a
+fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again
+impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of this
+river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a
+large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to
+the eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward.
+It was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the
+coast, and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in
+it, about the latitude of 25 deg. S. This was more apparent to me on crossing
+the river, and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He
+could see no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high
+table land already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could
+trace the course of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed
+them to encamp, and proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W.
+direction, carrying provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea
+of Brigalow--
+
+"----And we did buffet it, With lusty sinews throwing it aside, And
+stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."
+
+After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were
+rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.
+That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the
+foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood, extended
+far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of mountains of
+romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.
+
+"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"
+
+included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which, with
+its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the
+finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a
+perfectly clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had
+emerged, through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond
+that spot, until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits
+before me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these
+masses, seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my
+observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,
+the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a
+great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of
+quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it.
+I could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense
+of shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and
+prove ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had
+indulgently destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we
+traversed, consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood
+in great abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden
+as to be only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken
+character. Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich
+black earth, which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history
+may be simple, and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy
+could but find it out. We found, further on, a channel full of water,
+with reeds about the bed of it. There had been a current in it a short
+time previously, and, indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in
+some hollows in the Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and
+thus might have afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had
+other directions been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow
+near the water, not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and
+thus we passed the night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 18 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the
+assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,
+than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed
+Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the
+reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet
+in that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the
+remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,
+although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason
+for supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could
+escape to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11 deg.; in my tent, 15 deg.; at
+noon, 67 deg. at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 35 deg.. Height above the sea, 1107 feet.
+
+13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river
+Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W.,
+but deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick
+scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we crossed,
+was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the river, where
+I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains adjacent, the
+ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we saw also various
+new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs in the scrub. The
+banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay. I employed the
+party to make a bridge across it, and this was well completed before
+sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M. 68 deg.; at 9,
+40 deg.. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)
+
+14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we
+travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the
+richest plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS,
+and PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most
+abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have
+been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived
+at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We
+soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,
+apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub
+of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so
+thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad,
+but because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so
+easily take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack,
+after imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich
+land was thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex,
+agate, and chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most
+strikingly resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an
+entire trunk lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains
+of a tree! I obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of
+this were rare. The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was
+1512 feet above the sea.
+
+Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to the
+westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping towards
+a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to find an
+open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at length arrived.
+I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and having halted the
+party to examine them, I found they were quite impassable. Such an
+unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open country, yet UNDER
+that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it was unexpected, and
+I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I had seen on our
+right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also found some large
+ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were pitching the tents I
+rode down the valley about two miles, and found that the direction of the
+water-course was about north-east. Such a direction was not very
+favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country beyond the
+limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it further.
+Latitude, 24 deg. 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19 deg.; at 4 P. M., 66 deg.;
+at 9, 49 deg.. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.
+
+15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I proceeded
+about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length, mighty
+rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further. Leaving him
+in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely accessible with
+Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated summit, I saw still
+worse gullies before us, amongst which I could perceive no feature
+affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any characteristic of the
+structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the rugged summits I
+had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered, and could not
+then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on completing my map),
+that they were then under my feet. The highest parts seemed to extend
+south-westward. To cross such a region with our carts, was quite
+impossible, and I could only return, and, however reluctantly, follow
+down the valley in which we had encamped, until it should afford access
+to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse were steep, the
+bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous, alternately closing on
+rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus we were obliged to
+cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered each crossing a
+difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after crossing ten
+times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct distance from
+the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each crossing, cut
+the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general direction, I
+ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near the spot,
+where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this having been
+the first water we had seen during that day's laborious journey.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
+
+16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I considered
+it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, and
+thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour and
+delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore distressing
+to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to work out of it,
+to get round them. The whole day was consumed in proceeding thus about 51/2
+miles, and in an easterly direction. The closing in of the valley lower
+down, seemed to shut us from further progress even so, and I encamped,
+rather at a loss how to proceed. Just then Mr. Stephenson came to inform
+me that he had seen, from a rocky point on the left, an opening to the
+north-west, and level ground beyond it. I therefore determined to
+accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre the country in that direction.
+By digging in the bed of the creek, water was again obtained by Corporal
+Graham. Some extremely fragrant shrubs were discovered in these rocky
+recesses, especially one, which filled the air with perfume to a great
+distance around. It seemed to be a EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit,
+but with a powerful odour of balm, and formed a bush five feet high,
+growing on sandstone rocks, having a narrow leaf, and rather thorny
+stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] There was another bush, with
+leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but having a perfume equally strong
+of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that neither the seed, flower, nor
+fruit of these interesting shrubs could be obtained at that season. In
+that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed,
+and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began
+to indicate its flowering season, and we found a magnificent new crimson
+CALLISTEMON with its young flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new
+DODONOEA with wingless, 3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species
+of AOTUS, with narrow hoary leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees
+was a splendid new GEIGERA, with broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The
+PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very singular and little known fern, with
+narrow leaves and small orbicular leaflets, was also there, with the
+ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA
+AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-
+like heads of flowers, was common; and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA
+MONOPHYLLA was observed among the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at
+9 P.M., 41 deg..
+
+[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
+foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
+basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
+
+[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute
+tuberculatis, foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-
+parallelo-venosis viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to
+name this EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the
+deliciously fragrant lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as
+the recent state of the plant.]
+
+[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
+quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
+lanatis.]
+
+[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-
+lanceolatis parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis
+3-locularibus trigonis apteris.]
+
+[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
+crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis,
+calycis vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
+villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOIDES Meisn., but differing in the narrow
+and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
+
+[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe
+petiolatis subtus obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This
+appears to differ from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
+
+17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. By
+merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another water-
+course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came from the
+west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I had
+previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
+this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
+deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
+broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
+gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
+all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling
+to my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
+and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at
+the gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to
+guard the entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and
+kangaroos were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very
+attentively, to be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature
+only. A turret with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first
+appeared through the trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a
+round hill. On a nearer approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey
+rocks, and the small pines climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising
+out of a forest of common trees, presented still a very remarkable
+object. I named the valley "Glen Turret," and this feature "Tower
+Almond," after an ancient castle, the scene of many early associations,
+and now quite as uninhabited as this. Passing through Glen Turret, we
+ascended the nearest summit on the right, and from it beheld a prospect
+most cheering, after our toils amid rocky ravines. On the westward, the
+rocky range seemed to terminate abruptly towards the north, in an
+elevated point, which seemed to command an extensive view over the
+unknown W. and N.W. Out of that region two isolated mountain masses arose
+from an open country, and were clothed with open forests to their
+summits. Further eastward, masses of mountain in the extreme distance
+appeared covered, also, with open forests, and presented finely rounded
+outlines, not likely to impede our passage, in any direction. But towards
+the N.W. our view was not so extensive; like the uncertain future, it
+still lay hid. The retrospect was very extensive, including Mount Faraday
+in the extreme distance, and which thus afforded me a valuable back angle
+for the correction of our longitude from any errors of detailed survey.
+The lofty mass of Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E.,
+and I could here again intersect its three principal points. The view
+back to the Pass was very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on
+the bold summits, as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to
+the westward, an interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach,
+presenting a crescent, concave on that side, apparently the limit to the
+basin of the Nogoa, and the dividing range between eastern and western
+waters. Our Pass seemed to be the only outlet through the labyrinths
+behind us. Even the open plains beyond them were visible in a yellow
+streak above the precipices. Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was
+distinctly visible, on the horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 29 deg.; at 9 P.M., 43 deg.. (LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
+
+18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
+brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
+obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its
+elevated extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction,
+tolerably open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of
+grass, and near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds
+descending to the eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the
+habit of a dwarf Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24 deg. 6' 47" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 31 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
+(LII.)
+
+[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
+cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus
+solitariis sessilibus.]
+
+19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting further
+to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most northern
+summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up by
+gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
+and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
+near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
+summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
+Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
+apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
+feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
+the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
+appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features,
+although much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then
+stood, seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some
+higher ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the
+coast. Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken
+hills, at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-
+connected undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the
+south-east, whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy
+Creek, while others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a
+separate basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river
+was indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the
+left or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated
+mountain mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the
+valley formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point
+of the whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite,
+lay in that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10 deg. W. of
+N.) through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
+mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
+according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
+not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
+named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
+were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
+itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
+impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
+camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
+two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
+Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
+that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
+handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
+Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham took
+the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
+expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
+woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or
+deeds suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
+this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
+which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered a
+very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
+leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
+gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
+Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**].
+Although we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
+pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed us to
+the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had been
+frosty. Latitude, 24 deg. 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at noon,
+68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 61 deg.; at 9, 47 deg..
+
+[* See page 285.]
+
+[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
+lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
+canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
+OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
+WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
+EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN PLAINS,
+WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DRY
+CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND PROCEED N.W.--FROM
+A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH BRIGALOW SCRUB
+TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE CHANNEL MORE
+CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY CHANNEL JOINS
+FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS
+FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK BRIGALOW.--NIGHT
+WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS COURSE BEING EASTWARD
+OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE OUR TRACK TO THE
+PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART,
+WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow scrub,
+on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, and
+crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards the
+N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, resembling
+a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was precipitous, and
+seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after crossing a ridge
+rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub upon it, and one
+or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the bottle tree,
+(DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses descending to the
+southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. One, at length, on
+our right, taking the direction in which I was proceeding, viz., 10 deg. W.
+of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a broader valley leading N.W.
+Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, we found at length a fine
+pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, after a journey of about
+twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to the base of the lofty
+isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower valley crossed it,
+falling either to the northward or southward. This I left in pleasing
+uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that locality, when
+I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running north and south.
+I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount Beaufort, in honour
+of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40 deg.;
+at noon, 66 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.. (LIII.)
+
+21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad valley,
+we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly turned
+in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from the
+south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
+Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we had
+at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil consisted
+of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. We got
+amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for the
+channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
+Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
+no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
+brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon arid
+stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently from
+drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means encouraging.
+On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, at an
+old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that water was
+not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two native
+companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, on which
+salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the Bogan, had
+been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The very grass
+seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so checked by drought.
+A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, and convert the
+country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured further, to send
+the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to examine the
+country before us. Latitude, 23 deg. 48' 36". Thermometer, at sunrise, 57 deg.;
+at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 48 deg..
+
+22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, I
+went forward on the bearing of 30 deg. W. of N. I soon fell in with the
+united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
+direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
+these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
+ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
+northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
+them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to relieve
+me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A promising
+valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, and from it
+arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, from other
+ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured the outlines
+of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this morning were
+a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of yesterday. Such is
+human life in travelling, and so it was in war at Salamanca this day
+thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short journey on the bank of
+the river. Latitude, 24 deg. 46' 46". Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg., at noon,
+74 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.. (LIV.)
+
+23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so that
+none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. Accordingly, on
+arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to all, that they
+might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we not
+fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread into
+little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes formed
+by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of the
+grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been due,
+and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we had
+travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
+scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
+with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
+and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the water-
+worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, besides
+the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. Very old
+and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were small
+fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large forked
+tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
+eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
+apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
+23 deg. 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P.M. 80;
+at 9, 55 deg.. (LV.)
+
+24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air was
+balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. Lightning
+had been seen to the northward during the night. In following the little
+wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, and crossed
+two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a good large
+pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling the main
+channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. With the
+last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became neighbours to
+the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was to be seen, and
+the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in length, with
+ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of thunder was heard
+in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, that we were near
+the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms exhausted
+themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where they fell.
+During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next morning, to
+the northward. Latitude, 23 deg. 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at
+noon, 75 deg.; at 4, P.M., 82 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.. (LVI.)
+
+25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
+route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
+Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
+line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
+just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
+fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
+The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
+improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
+rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to the
+eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At eight
+miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many ducks,
+and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, finding that
+water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we required it.
+Latitude, 23 deg. 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at noon, 77 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. (LVII.)
+
+26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out in
+that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
+scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
+of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
+genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
+travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
+indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
+straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
+rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
+new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
+flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
+useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; and
+useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
+fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late,
+I travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained
+its banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
+bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst
+it, evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
+spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
+terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and
+fruit. Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and
+underside of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span
+long, cordato acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green
+and glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
+pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
+Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
+seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P.M., 89 deg.; at 9, 75 deg..
+(LVIII,)
+
+[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis,
+foliis impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis
+subalternis.]
+
+27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
+variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much whereof
+lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there was
+any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
+little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
+water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as
+close as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
+yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
+was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
+thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
+named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a range
+in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only to
+send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
+westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
+water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
+miles. Latitude, 23 deg. 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at
+4 P.M., 90 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. (LIX.)
+
+28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
+hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
+southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
+and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
+formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
+impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
+to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from
+the usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
+party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
+by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
+over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
+fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had been
+flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed there,
+the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of water, and
+beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a tribe
+of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of decayed
+stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once grown, and
+that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing; as if,
+according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to open
+downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular seasons,
+become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted in the
+scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the plain, and
+across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through some open
+forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the many dry
+channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom then
+consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit it,
+and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly undulating
+ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the LORANTHUS
+SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a tree, from
+whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of which I
+ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it, through
+which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The extreme
+westerly escarp of these hills bore 17 deg. E. of N., so that nothing was
+likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
+direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
+consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
+brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
+stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
+On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
+good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
+plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
+found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23 deg. 5'
+20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 82 deg.; at 4 P.M., 88 deg.; at 9,
+58 deg.. (XL.)
+
+29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of easy
+access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a N.W.
+direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood and
+other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew in the
+place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open, park-
+like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a greenness
+was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these tropical regions.
+Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-
+flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike plant, and a form of
+Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the two other varieties. This
+was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species of the genus GEIJERA
+formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender weeping branches. It
+was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, except that its flowers
+were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus STENOCHILUS, but
+new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large spreading tree,
+from which we could bring away nothing that would enable botanists to
+describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of the leaves, which,
+Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE; but the fruit appeared
+to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect to lead to any
+satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently from those near
+Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another language." This river
+was not the least unique of our recent discoveries. It still consisted of
+a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any one continuous
+channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by various trees
+growing in the banks. When their large roots became denuded by the
+floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that the tree fell
+over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the floating-wreck,
+and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of floating wreck
+became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so formed forced the
+river into new currents, working out new courses; and this appeared to
+give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It seems extremely
+favourable for the retention of water in a country where it may be
+scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun, preserve it
+much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed channel
+alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found the
+hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded in
+discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
+naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
+although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
+attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
+delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
+90 deg. about 4 P.M., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
+recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
+disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
+in May. Latitude, 22 deg. 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at noon,
+80 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.. (LXI.)
+
+[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus
+in petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
+
+[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
+apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
+lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis
+infima retusa vix caeteris magis soluta.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but
+much whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the
+lower one much broader.]
+
+30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
+endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
+the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to
+the left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into
+extensive plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and
+that was skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we
+entered an open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw,
+from the skirts of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the
+east for several days past, and I was able to intersect various points.
+We seemed to be descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon,
+covered with ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved
+both as to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet
+high, was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
+DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M.
+DULCE. A hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained
+abundance of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and,
+instead of brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong
+grass, and much verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble
+to cross, and soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had
+run well to the westward. We had crossed the 147 deg. of E. longitude, and I
+was very anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I
+crossed it, and hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a
+flat-topped cliffy range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was
+low; the middle part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our
+camp. It was likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our
+purpose. Latitude, 22 deg. 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon,
+82 deg.; at 4 P.M., 83 deg.; at 9, 45 deg.. (LXII.)
+
+31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
+that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in
+a deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
+I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
+river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This
+new river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened
+across it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction
+of the two rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green
+pods and dry pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than
+those of Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?)
+Beyond the last found river, we travelled over open forest land,
+occasionally passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might
+again see water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our
+abundant little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for
+such was the bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious
+dry lagoon. Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large
+floods from the river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still
+continuing along the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared,
+and I finally encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The
+course and character of the river below the junction last mentioned,
+remained to be ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which,
+before the rain, had been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen,
+which bore some resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered
+in any quantity. The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form
+from any to be seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard
+clay about the size and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being
+larger, or as much as 31/2 feet high, others smaller. In some places they
+were so numerous, as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst,
+especially where the grass was long. Latitude of this camp, 22 deg. 44' 45".
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 52 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 43 deg..
+(LXIII.)
+
+1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
+followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came upon
+the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many miles in
+that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where the very
+coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina appeared
+amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh went to the
+top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to the
+eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
+course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low
+range already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country
+between the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very
+low. Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
+course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction,
+and forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
+much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
+Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
+important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
+grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
+lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
+ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
+encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
+appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
+woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
+white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
+tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
+bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
+LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
+Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary CAPPARIS
+was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight inches long,
+although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and their hard
+leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
+afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 44 deg.. Latitude, 22 deg.
+38' 40". (LXIV.)
+
+[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
+longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
+solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
+
+2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain, but
+lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W. course
+in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests alternating
+with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving dry hollows
+where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all these
+hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and children,
+remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These numerous
+receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with which even
+the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of the animal
+world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that sort of
+scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river, by
+travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
+the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
+camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
+river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
+would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
+nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
+terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
+be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40 deg. N. of W. to
+40 deg. E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost
+bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the
+river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned
+direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In
+the dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite
+new to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and
+a very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found
+near this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS
+CURVIPES was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of
+Acacia was perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also
+a curious scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22 deg. 30' 10" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 29 deg.; at noon, 61 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 40 deg..
+(LXV.)
+
+[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
+oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
+pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
+pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
+distinct.]
+
+[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus,
+oblongospathulatis acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et
+obsolete dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis
+radicalibus elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum
+vel trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-
+lanceolatis, floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis,
+membranaceis, ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis,
+petiolatisque; antherae liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum,
+labiis compressis, cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent.
+lata, crassinervia; scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum
+elongati.]
+
+[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
+glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
+laciniis duabus supremis diu vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
+subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
+
+3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
+crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the
+river bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain
+distance from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had
+been accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the
+river, and other food. The river was found to spread into separate
+channels, in which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them
+again united in a splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general
+course was by no means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was
+much to be apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast,
+and become another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the
+interior country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys
+have been made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
+polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
+brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part
+where we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded
+by torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn
+banks, and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from
+these obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
+scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
+two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
+coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
+the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten
+miles. The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics,
+which they seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That
+we had just quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for
+brigalow scrubs, and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered
+river seemed quite the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform;
+the banks being covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was
+sandy, but contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us
+to higher regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might
+fall in the direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin
+fish of the Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in
+the river to which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other
+sorts. There was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in
+particular, growing in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining
+bark of the tea-tree (mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of
+the eucalyptus; a HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI,
+but not in flower; a CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or
+at least closely allied to it, occupied the dry sandy ground with
+MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded weed; and some Cinchonad allied to
+Coffea, with young fruit, the size of small olives. Latitude, 22 deg. 23'
+10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at noon, 59 deg.; at 4 P.M., 64 deg.; at 9,
+37 deg.; with wet bulb, 28 deg.. (LXVI.)
+
+4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit the
+head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in any
+direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
+soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
+it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
+to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
+ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
+length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
+and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one piece of
+rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the rest,
+and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated
+flattopped range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
+similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
+woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
+still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
+eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
+northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
+these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to
+follow in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the
+horizon, I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to
+have found water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and
+absorbent. There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22 deg. 19' 45" S. On this
+day's journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan,
+none of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed
+the Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like
+mint, was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new
+MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 58 deg.; at 4 P.M., 63 deg.;
+at 9, 29 deg.; with wet bulb, 18 deg..
+
+[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
+excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis
+acuminatis appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis
+obtusis imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis
+globosis.--A very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII,
+Endl.: but extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of
+the copious slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the
+bleached slender branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the
+leaves had been, as it were, sunk.]
+
+5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my expectations, we
+had come quite far enough from the one we had previously followed, which
+still might have turned N.W., where we wished it to go; although I
+confess the prospect was by no means promising. The doubt was still to be
+removed, and, after a night passed without water, the earliest dawn saw
+us again going forward, in a direction a little to the eastward of N. It
+was only after pursuing that line for seventeen miles, that we again
+found the river, unchanged in character, and still running northerly.
+This was a trying day for our animals, as they could not be watered until
+long after it was dark; a brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber,
+having retarded and impeded the carts so that they could not be got to
+the water sooner. Nor had this been possible, even then, but for the
+fortunate circumstance of our having the light of a nearly full moon. I
+had preceded the party by some miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest
+following my horse's tracks, and I had thus passed through the four miles
+of scrub, and reached the river early in the day. On returning, we found
+the party in the midst of this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even
+by moonlight, to the pond at which we had watered our horses during the
+day. Many dry hollows of indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the
+brigalow we had passed through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as
+much as possible, through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs,
+many of which we were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many
+deep impressions of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also
+the tracks of emus. Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had
+been following a kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method
+adopted by the natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which
+is, to pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they
+overtake the animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at
+length so defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk.
+According to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much
+higher above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still
+it spread into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being
+sometimes in good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be
+more sterile than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first
+indication of the river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass,
+and we had to ride two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find
+the river, having been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives.
+At the first place we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water,
+under the shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22 deg. 10' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 61 deg.; at 9, 36 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 28 deg.. (LXVII.)
+
+6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
+an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
+
+7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along the
+river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
+and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
+channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water,
+glittered before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger
+water-fowl shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to
+the northeast, as if our river had been either breaking off in that
+direction, or met with some important tributary from that side. I
+continued to travel northwest, passing through some fine open forests.
+The character of the country seemed changed. The grass was of a different
+kind, and a refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of
+water," as Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared
+still to be continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward,
+the more I was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at
+length approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found
+this was a river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as
+the one we had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new
+tributary from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had
+been pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too
+probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
+towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
+eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
+opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
+ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
+could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction.
+Their report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take
+a ride forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W.,
+and at two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was
+found to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still
+continued northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The
+STENOCHILUS PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet
+high, and in the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E.
+HYPERICIFOLIA, but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not
+glabrous. The DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy
+fruits, clothed the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude,
+22 deg. 2' 15" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.; at 4 P.M., 77 deg.;
+at 9, 55 deg.;--with wet bulb 49 deg.. (LXVIII).
+
+[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
+bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
+arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis
+densifloris, floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque
+tomentosis, folliculis oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis
+glabris.--Allied to G. CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves
+are narrower, not golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely
+secund: a splendid species.]
+
+[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissime pilosa, foliis pinnatis
+pinnis oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel
+incisis, rachi articulata articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis
+tetrapteris villosissimis.]
+
+8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first, northward by
+compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub, upon fine open downs
+covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil was soft and rich, the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias were strewed over these
+downs, which were very extensive, and from them I saw several rather high
+hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly over a low country to the
+northward. Supposing that the main channel would there turn round to the
+eastward, I proceeded north-west to examine the country. I soon entered a
+thick scrub of rosewood and other Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON
+NERVOSUM, previously seen (July) with rich crimson flowers, forming a
+large tree, in the dry open forest, with perfectly green spikes; also, on
+the branches of Eucalypti, a beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil
+was rich, yielding, and rather bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated
+limestone, or marble, appeared on the surface, showing that the
+improvement in the soil was owing to a change in the rocks under it.
+Again emerging on open plains, the country seemed to fall northward,
+which induced me to ride again in that direction, thinking we might meet
+with some river either coming from the N. W. or leading there. The open
+plains terminated upon a hollow full of trees, growing, as was very
+evident, on a lower surface. The hollows resembled those of brigalow
+scrub, and we soon found this tree in full possession of them. Dry
+channels, leading in various directions between N. W. and E. engaged my
+attention throughout the afternoon: indeed, they seemed interminable. At
+length, we detected some continuity in the hollows, leading towards the
+N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it, abundance of grass on the
+banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows hovering over one, raised our hopes
+that it contained water, as we also perceived a line of green vegetation
+over the margin. It was deep and full of water. Here, about 4 P. M., we
+were thus enabled to water our horses, and continue our ride
+independently of finding more water that evening. We next perceived an
+open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the country from it, we
+saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering the brigalow
+scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct, and I at length lost
+it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a direction in
+which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the mazes of
+another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions between N.
+W. and 20 deg. N. of E., the latter being the general course. During this
+unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where the dry and
+naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had come thirty
+miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark, that I
+found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and lay
+down to pass the night.
+
+9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded again
+into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous channel,
+and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a plain.
+Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very much
+resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found the
+river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
+ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
+We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while engaged
+laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives looking at us
+from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough to one who
+stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who instantly replied to
+my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It was a brief but
+intelligible interview; no words could have been better understood on
+both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we saw these
+natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had been
+turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
+while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was telegraphing
+with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some vessel with
+water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled, and advanced
+to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also that they
+might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green bough and
+subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us. Yuranigh was
+burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed him to throw them
+about, that the natives might see that we neither eat their kangaroos nor
+emus. I found the course of the river very straight, but rather more than
+it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts of the channel, lay
+deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other places, shallow
+hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the river's
+currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a grassy
+part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we had
+reached that morning.
+
+10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the north,
+with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove as
+rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great novelty to
+us there. About 9 A.M., the sky was wholly overcast; but it finally
+cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3 P.M.,
+having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower. There I
+found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of water,
+being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined to
+explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
+the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
+visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all
+very strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them
+carried three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and
+a gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts.
+They said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
+pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr. Stephenson
+happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then beckoned to
+the party that they also should follow or go where I had gone, or leave
+that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and patiently, by
+the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my man Brown,
+being very desirous that I should return before they departed; thinking
+the old man might have given me some information about the river, which
+he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation seemed to arise between the
+old chief and the tallest man, about the clubs, during which the latter
+again came forward, and beckoned to others behind, who came close up
+also. Each carried a club under each arm, and another in each hand, and
+from the gestures made to this advanced party, by the rest of the tribe
+of young men at a distance, it appeared that this was intended to be a
+hostile movement. Brown accordingly drew out the men in line before the
+tents, with their arms in their hands, and forbade the natives to
+approach the tents. "Nothing damps the ardour of troops so much," says
+General Lloyd, "as an unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and
+these strong men stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five
+men in line, with incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our
+three dogs ran at them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better.
+They all took to their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of
+their tribe; and the only casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which
+biting at the legs of a native running away, he turned round, and hit the
+dog so cleverly with his missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill
+for months after; the native having again, with great dexterity, picked
+up his club. The whole of them then disappeared, shouting through the
+woods to their gins. It was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they
+exclaimed "Yerraman," the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of
+these animals they were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much
+dread of the bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack
+the white strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but
+another of the many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight,
+without treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition.
+That they did not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when
+detached from the body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be
+set down as a favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for
+whenever they visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I
+was absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The
+old man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
+this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
+intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
+joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below
+that junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the
+natives, and learn something of the country to the north-west.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 82 deg.; at 4 P.M., 81 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp, we
+travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
+main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
+connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
+this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which
+M. Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21 deg. 6' S., and which he
+supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
+three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
+to about 30 deg. E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21 deg. 30' of latitude
+south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at
+all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its
+bed, moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600
+feet), that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and
+western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following
+conclusions:--
+
+1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
+westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
+
+2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
+the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
+greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
+3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25 deg. S., the highest spinal
+range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount
+Faraday appeared to be one.
+
+I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head of
+the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
+as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
+marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
+left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
+being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
+good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
+which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
+pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
+occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
+the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
+exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
+plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
+Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves; and
+the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous among
+the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
+STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
+Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
+resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of
+LABICHEA.[***] Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at noon, 71 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+70 deg.; at 9, 35 deg.;--with wet bulb, 30 deg..
+
+[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
+integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
+glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
+attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty
+well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
+Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which Brown
+also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new species
+with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by Sir T.
+Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
+
+[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
+glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
+tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
+
+[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
+foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
+reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
+conformibus.]
+
+12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed themselves on
+the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads homewards, merely
+saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher point. The track
+already marked out by our party advancing, was so much easier for the
+draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they arrived at an early
+hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and travelled with ease
+three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the banks of which
+the grass was good, and where we therefore now encamped. The track of the
+large feet of the natives showed they had followed us this morning, from
+our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of burning wood they had dropped,
+showed that they had this day met us in the scrub as we returned, and had
+gone out of our way. Even to the lagoon, their track along our route was
+also plainly visible. I was now, apparently to them, at their request,
+leaving the country; and we should soon see if their purpose in visiting
+our camp was an honest one, and whether their reasonable and fair demand,
+was really all they contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 71 deg.; at 9, 65 deg..
+
+13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond Camp
+LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in order to
+avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without water, and the
+thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing over fine open
+forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the river on our left
+when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the water, and distant
+only a few miles from the camp two journies back from LXVII. I was guided
+by the bearing of 10 deg. E. of N. We found much of the grass on fire, and
+heard the natives' voices although we saw none. We crossed some patches
+of dry swamp where the clods had been very extensively turned up by the
+natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh could not form any conjecture.
+These clods were so very large and hard that we were obliged to throw
+them aside, and clear a way for the carts to pass. The whole resembled
+ground broken up by the hoe, the naked surface having been previously so
+cracked by drought as to render this upturning possible without a hoe.
+There might be about two acres in the patch we crossed, and we perceived
+at a distance, other portions of the ground in a similar state. The river
+had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked channel, with abundance of clear
+water in it, and firm accessible banks. It was still, however, enveloped
+in a narrow belt of brigalow. The shepherd having most imprudently taken
+the sheep to water when it was near sunset, lost his way in the scrub,
+and could not be found all night. Some thought he had fallen into the
+hands of the aborigines who were closely watching us; and it was obvious
+that had they got possession of our sheep, they could have annoyed us
+very seriously, or indeed, destroyed the whole party. The night was very
+dark, the sky having been overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at
+noon, 61 deg.; at 4 P.M., 60; at 9, 60.
+
+14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and high
+barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I sent
+Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
+shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 A. M. He had
+been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
+fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
+been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
+found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
+seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
+encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
+at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
+more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
+drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
+towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
+rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
+from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
+decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
+was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
+other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
+grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
+probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
+
+[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long,
+linear attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the
+other with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large
+forest trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
+
+15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we arrived
+at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course, (7 deg. E.
+of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to cut
+off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged me
+to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
+midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
+of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
+encamped about 3 P.M., when the rain again came on, the morning having
+been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 57 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 66 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 58 deg..
+
+16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
+country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
+river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in
+our route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
+filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
+tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-
+tree of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There
+also grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered
+MELALEUCA, resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*];
+and, in the scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-
+like shrub fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I
+intended to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We
+thus left Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at
+that of LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58 deg.; at noon, 65; at 4 P.M., 63 deg.;
+at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
+utrinque acutissimis, spica terminali laxiuscula rachi pilosa, calyce
+glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis
+breviore.]
+
+17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen, the
+product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
+the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in
+heaps, or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of
+this singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered
+in any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round
+clouds driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this
+of Bunten stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been
+formerly encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from
+S. W., we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only
+on the dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and
+I could have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
+horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
+rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just
+mentioned, which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a
+laxative medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks
+were quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most
+parts covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in
+good time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
+ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
+plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
+wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
+evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 P. M., a wind
+from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+55 deg.; at noon, 71 deg.; at 4 P. M., 74 deg.; at 9, 68 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the sky
+was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved off, at
+our usual hour, 7 A. M. About nine, the western portion of the sky seemed
+loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a heavy rain
+began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of clay,
+which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much delay,
+at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI., and
+there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without intermission
+until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into mud, almost
+knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded, of water
+in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which was still
+to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river, flowing
+towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51 deg.; at noon,
+54 deg.; at 4 P. M., 53 deg..
+
+19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
+brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the
+earth. The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I
+had thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in
+that interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I
+had ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
+gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing
+range, if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the
+parallel of 24 deg. or 25 deg., the fall of waters and of the whole country was
+towards the south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so
+decidedly in the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we
+had just explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending
+from a mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet
+above the sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those
+we had seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the
+water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable
+to expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to
+the Gulf of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal
+range extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island,
+and there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward
+and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be
+sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result
+of which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the
+north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the
+country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most momentous
+interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and provisions
+almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic line before
+we could return to it), I was determined to carry the exploration so far,
+with whatever means could be spared from the party, even had it been
+necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like a native, on
+opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+45 deg.; at noon, 63 deg.; at 4 P. M., 63 deg.; at 9, 47 deg.;--with wet bulb, 44 deg..
+
+20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
+formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
+and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground passed
+over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every hollow, a
+great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect of relief
+from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes past 10
+P.M. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke every man in
+it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next, a blaze of
+light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass, or
+revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
+sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which
+a sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was
+such that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the
+ground, and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was
+very clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46 deg..
+
+21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through
+hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
+impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful for
+the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had hitherto
+confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country. We
+cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our journey
+was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to avoid the
+former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and much bad
+brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the sake of a piece
+of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most pleasant, temperate,
+and Englishlike, though we were still within the tropics. A sweet breeze
+blew from the S. W., and the degree of temperature was between 50 deg. and
+60 deg. of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable, I believe, of any, to the human
+frame. There was abundance of water, and young grass was daily growing
+higher; many trees were also beginning to blossom. We were retiring,
+nevertheless, RE INFECTA, from these tropical regions, and I was
+impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to resume my
+explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a wild carrot,
+tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it, from the
+effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea already
+mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt whatever,
+that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The GEIJERA
+PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour of its
+long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, in
+the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood was
+remarkable from a perfume like roses.
+
+22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked and
+sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
+miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
+earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp LVIII.,
+and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of good grass.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P. M., 72 deg.; at 9, 43 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the
+westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it. We
+thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
+berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
+to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
+was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
+rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
+rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow. We
+encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a spot
+where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being very
+bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon alter the
+case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
+splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
+seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
+be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
+exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
+was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
+spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 28 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P. M., 75 deg.; at 9, 44 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 41 deg..
+
+24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
+horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
+eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former
+track; and in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above
+the letters N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line
+of Capricorn. I left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret;
+the weather had favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant.
+The three last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on
+these mornings at 25 deg., 28 deg., and 29 deg., respectively. Many interesting trees
+and shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able
+to gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII.,
+along our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23 deg. 31' 36" S.; and there
+again set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of
+tropical Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass
+near our route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones.
+These being of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the
+table, GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible
+to bring them up, and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood.
+This bird seemed to have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and
+flew more clumsily than others. It had three streaks of white about the
+head, assimilating it to the poultry class; and in building on the
+ground, it afforded another indication of its resemblance to our domestic
+birds. The flesh is very white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the
+most delicate of all birds. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29 deg.; at noon, 75 deg.;
+at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 46 deg.;--with wet bulb, 42 deg..
+
+25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very crooked from
+following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I set out on
+the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a straight
+line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open ground. The
+blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees, were welcome
+to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded me of the Persian
+proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the eyes." We encamped
+a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better grass than we had left
+formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted of gravel; and
+amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it consisted, I found
+basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been detected by me
+amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P.M., 77 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with wet bulb, 47 deg..
+
+26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
+shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.; which
+spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary; but I
+could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily journies
+short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges. One of
+the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but Yuranigh, by
+chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The thermometer
+had been as low as 38 deg.; but the birds had been kept in a box well covered
+with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of this camp, I
+found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having been first
+seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37 deg.;
+at noon, 80 deg.; at 4 P.M., 81 deg.; at 9, 44 deg.;--with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
+along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
+right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view
+of the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
+firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
+hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
+I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
+elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
+
+I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
+on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward
+the east, at an angle of about 25 deg. with the horizon; on which side those
+slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they presented
+abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides, forming
+an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on the east
+side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay our
+former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
+eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
+camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was found in
+a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed of the
+main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the water
+before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+41 deg.; at noon, 79; at 4 P.M., 82 deg.; at 9, 48 deg.;--with wet bulb 39 deg..
+
+28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the plain: a
+fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due southward
+over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until we crossed,
+for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray. Just
+beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
+LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although the
+pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a good
+supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a little dog
+of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it known to us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 40 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 41 deg..
+
+29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
+basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
+which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
+thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
+quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
+Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its
+course, with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries
+apparently larger than itself. All these lapsed into the same
+concatenated line of ponds; at one place, spreading amidst brigalow
+scrub, at another, forming one well-defined deep channel. For the
+formation of ponds, and the retention of water, in so dry a climate, we
+see here something between the ordinary character of rivers, and
+artificial works which man must construct, when population may spread
+into these regions. The fallen timber of the brigalow decays very slowly,
+and is not liable to be burnt, like most other dead wood in open forests,
+because no grass grows amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The
+accumulations of dead logs become clogged with river rack and the deposit
+of floods; to which floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the
+waters into new channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds,
+and completing the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams
+and reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water
+for a longer time than any single river channel could retain, however
+sluggish its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual
+drought, we had found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 31/2
+degrees of latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to
+wheel carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very
+favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along
+this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience
+has taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as
+closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus,
+open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond which
+nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go forward
+in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again encamped
+under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting portion of white
+rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it; and that the
+avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the mountain with white
+fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered ravine below, a curious
+new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.;
+at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 82 deg.; at 9, 56 deg.;--with wet bulb, 50 deg..
+
+[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissima subcanescens,
+foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
+depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA
+Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
+plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
+
+30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
+sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward, and
+goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings before the
+arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them to a spot
+where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite to camp
+LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the plains,
+than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found so
+difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
+eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
+towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
+direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
+the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
+covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once more
+saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with Yuranigh's
+able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed in
+conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
+range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
+the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
+(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
+DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
+ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil
+we saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
+leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
+MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found also
+a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 59 deg.;
+at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P.M., 81 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.; with wet bulb, 54 deg..
+
+[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
+sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
+primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari
+subgeminis calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine
+glaberrimo.--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily
+distinguished, besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the
+veins of the leaves, which diverge from the midrib at a very acute
+instead of a right angle.]
+
+[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis,
+foliis subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello
+calyce paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carina multo
+brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be seen in
+an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
+
+31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
+morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
+gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
+ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
+we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up
+to its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
+drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
+slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
+and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
+gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
+ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
+CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
+a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
+grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
+strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
+been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
+TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly
+of thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
+appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just forming
+its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
+MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about four
+feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet high,
+with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the beautiful
+TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite flowers.
+
+[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
+sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
+fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
+integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
+superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
+remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
+flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and stamens.
+The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a very strong
+smell of thyme.]
+
+There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
+entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
+eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
+valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
+to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
+grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
+from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs, about
+ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
+
+1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25 deg.. All
+prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
+was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded us
+at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
+clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar country,
+large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing above the
+placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a range to
+us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no stranger
+could have supposed these features to have been only the highest parts of
+such a broken sandstone country as that from which we had just emerged.
+The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they were nowhere level
+but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in white streaks high
+above us, when we first perceived them through the scrubs. These downs
+consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on which grew luxuriantly,
+ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the surface in general was loose,
+resembling that of a field after it had lain long in fallow. Herbs in
+great variety were just emerging from the recently watered earth, and the
+splendid morning did ample justice to the vernal scene. The charm of a
+beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and the songs of many birds
+sounded like the orchestral music before the commencement of any
+theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a place, was quite
+incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost boundless extent
+of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that of China, yet
+still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve, provided by
+nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and industry
+might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
+population.
+
+These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
+contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
+of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
+component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
+beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
+above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
+and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
+wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire. The
+ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a salsolaceous
+soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no geologist has
+yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have produced that
+rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly grew; or these
+wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red sandstone formation. One
+has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;" but this phrase
+admits of no easy application to such cases as these. Fragments of a
+ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles, apparently identical with
+those in the basin of the Darling, in some places accompany these angular
+fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a new ERIOSTEMON allied to E.
+BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby
+EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in
+the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical
+on trees. We encamped on the margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX,
+and about a mile distant from it, our draught oxen being very weak and
+leg-weary. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at
+9, 44 deg.;--with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
+obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus
+unifloris tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
+
+[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
+subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
+involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
+
+2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly mentioned.
+We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then made, had been
+much damaged by a flood. The little river was still running, and it was
+cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its sources, beyond
+which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in repairing our bridge,
+so that all things were got across safely. We ascended the undulating
+downs along our old track, and where many curious specimens of trees in
+flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I observed that no entire
+sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing to have been
+compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. Yuranigh brought me
+one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), which so far
+confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the coniferous character of
+Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance of other specimens, I
+am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of that description. I
+left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that the direct
+route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was rather at a
+loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the name of
+Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
+Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
+subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
+therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
+About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which had
+been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
+exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is
+to be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or
+sources are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and
+usually bare of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.; at
+4 P.M., 78 deg.; at 9, 47 deg.;--with wet bulb, 42 deg..
+
+3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest hour." The
+thermometer 31 deg. at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of the magpie
+or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and the rich browns
+and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with its dense grey
+shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in the same state as
+when we left it. No flood had come down the channel of that river. The
+tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the old route, and
+bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is remarkable that in no
+case had they injured or defaced the letters and numerals marked on trees
+at the various camps, nor disturbed our temporary bridges. We cut our way
+through a scrub of brigalow, thus passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and
+XLVI., encamping at a short distance from the latter of these places.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 31 deg.; at noon, 74 deg.; at 4 P. M., 75 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;
+with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the lake,
+had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a green crop
+was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our cattle.
+Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this day,
+proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to be
+left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
+river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before
+they had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
+the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on seeing
+us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
+judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
+with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
+had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
+curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
+instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian
+natives towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some
+of the uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
+behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
+themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
+stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
+them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
+trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
+make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
+still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
+crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on seeing
+us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions before us,
+and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great blaze
+there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody range beyond
+Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued until evening;
+thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous sunset, which
+poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky pinnacles, as I sat
+drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles northward of XLV.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 39 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 32 deg..
+
+5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a more
+elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy clouds of
+cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the last effort
+of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be driven much
+farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where this could
+be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged to cross.
+We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which well
+deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, were
+seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
+yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
+position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
+which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, and
+the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
+encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
+excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
+spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
+formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the purple-
+flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the pink-
+flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
+forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
+handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here first
+appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
+small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
+LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the
+foot of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with
+yellow black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree
+fifteen or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of
+ALL. CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high,
+proved to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A.
+CUNNINGHAMII, but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of
+flowers, and everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P. M., 64 deg.; at 9, 40 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 31 deg..
+
+[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis,
+foliolis glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis
+triangularibus glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
+
+[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
+aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
+acutis persistentibus.]
+
+[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
+elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
+subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus,
+spicis elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo
+breviore, ovario villoso.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
+STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--
+PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER
+NIVE.--ITS COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE
+VICTORIA DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO
+VARIOUS CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE
+RIVER ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST
+POINT OF THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM
+THE SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--
+ASCEND WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE
+PYRAMIDS.--NEW PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
+
+6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the horses
+for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all being
+leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during these
+two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of scenery within
+a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been assiduously
+burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This rendered the
+spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young grass was highly
+relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass remained to be set fire
+to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part of the natives, is
+usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon,
+68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 64 deg.; at 9, 40 deg.;--with wet bulb, 31 deg..
+
+8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in writing a
+despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed account of
+my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that in the
+event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now to
+accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to leave
+it at this depot camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us, and a
+fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our intended
+ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky continued
+overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in sufficient
+quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to produce
+dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the 8th, 53 deg.;
+at noon, 55 deg.; at 4 P. M., 57 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg.; and at
+sunrise of the 9th, 39 deg.; at noon, 77 deg.; at 4 P.M., 70 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with
+wet bulb, 45 deg..
+
+10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
+Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant, false
+horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley, along
+our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W., following
+up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This valley led very
+straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three volcanic cones,
+which I had already intersected from various points. The other two I had
+named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three hills formed an
+obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to the north-west,
+and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land might be found to
+form an angle somewhat corresponding with the directions of the two
+shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to the westward of
+such an angle in the range, I might find what had been so long the object
+of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of Carpentaria. We
+reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my former observations as
+far as could be ascertained by the mode of measurement I employed then;
+which was by counting my horse's paces. On ascending the mountain on
+foot, I found a deep chasm still between me and the western summit, which
+was not only the highest, but the only part clear of bushes. A thick and
+very thorny scrub had already so impeded my ascent, that the best portion
+of the afternoon was gone, before I could return to the horses; and I
+resolved, therefore, to continue my ride, and to defer the ascent and
+observation of angles from the summit, until my return from the unknown
+western country, which we were about to explore; the search for water
+that night being an object of too much importance to be longer deferred.
+We, accordingly, passed on by the southward and westward of the mountain,
+following a watercourse, which led first N. W., then north, and next E.
+of N.; to where it at length joined one from the west, up which I turned,
+and continued the search for water until darkness obliged us to halt.
+During that search for water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so
+concealed and covered with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared
+from those following; and yet, strange to say, without either of us being
+in the least hurt. We encamped where there was, at least, good grass;
+but--no water.
+
+11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept, we
+found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well known
+to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after long
+custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we had
+breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
+supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
+some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
+We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
+perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
+rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
+feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were all
+visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The connections
+extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at the head of the
+Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these I was careful
+to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was higher than it,
+and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at its lowest part,
+which bore 26 deg. W. of S., was our next object. We found the range covered
+with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs. On the crest, the
+rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade thermometer stood, at
+noon, at 30 deg. 5' equal to 87 deg., of Fahrenheit; the height above the sea we
+made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we encountered a scrub of matted
+vines, which hung down like ropes, and pulled some of us off our horses,
+when it happened that any of these ropes were not observed in time in
+riding through the thicket. A very dense forest of young Callitris trees
+next impeded us, and were more formidable than even the vines. The day
+was passed in forcing our way through these various scrubs, the ground
+declining by a gentle slope only. We next found firmer soil underfoot,
+that where the Callitris scrub grew having been sandy, and we saw at
+length, with a feeling of relief, that only brigalow scrub was before us;
+we ascended gravelly hills, came upon a dry water-course, and then on a
+chain of ponds. Near one of these ponds, sate an old woman, beside a
+fire, of course, although the weather was very warm; and a large net,
+used for taking emus, hung on a brigalow bush close by. The men were
+absent, looking for food, as we partly conjectured, for little could
+Yuranigh make out of what she said, besides the names of some rivers, to
+which I could point with the hand. I was surprised to find that here, the
+name for water was "Narran," the name for it in the district of the
+Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the word for water amongst the tribes of
+the Darling is Kalli. That the "Narran" river and swamp are named from
+this language of tribes now dwelling much further northward, seems
+obvious; and, as the natives on the Darling know little of the "Narran"
+or its swamp, it may be inferred that there the migration of native
+tribes has been progressive from south to north; the highest known land
+in Australia being also to the southward of the Darling. The chain of
+ponds, according to the old woman, was named "Cunno," and ran into the
+"Warreg" which, as she pointed, was evidently the name of the river we
+had formerly traced downwards from near Mount P. P. King. I left the
+"Cunno," and plunged into the brigalow to the northward, thus crossing a
+slightly elevated range, where we found a little water-course falling
+N.N.W. By following this downwards, we found water in it, as twilight
+grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for the night, in latitude 25 deg.
+S.
+
+[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
+
+12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 59 deg.; our height then above
+the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet. Continuing to follow
+down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a chain of ponds running
+N.E., and these we traced in the contrary direction, or upwards, as far
+as seemed desirable. We struck off from that water-course, first to the
+N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep low ridge of clay
+ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We crossed that low
+ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half beyond, met another
+acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also ascended, and found
+upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree having hard spiky dry
+branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to receive the charge of
+ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which formidable array we
+nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived at the head of a
+rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we attempted in vain to
+pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga," until, seeing a flat
+on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the water-course
+again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction, and contained
+some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river, whose banks were
+thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course of this river was
+W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N., and at the
+junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we watered
+our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills, three
+quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24 deg. 52'
+50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge
+we crossed, was 84 deg.; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3
+P.M., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89 deg.; the
+height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
+
+13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer stood at 38 deg.; the height above
+the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river
+would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
+conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
+commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name; and,
+to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle. Pursuing the
+united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy plains. The air
+was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up, especially where
+the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were MORGANIA GLABRA;
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM with the aspect of a
+TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a new scabrous
+HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning by the
+natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry warm
+weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as an
+emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly imprinted
+with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the natives to
+attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the aversion of
+the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle: people
+who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they have
+thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted with
+their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
+these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old
+men and women!
+
+[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
+margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
+patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida,
+foliis oblongis planis longe ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis
+pentameris, calycibus patentim hispidis.]
+
+[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris,
+foliis alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis,
+floribus distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis,
+fructu subgloboso.]
+
+The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
+it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
+After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
+bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were obliged
+to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and laborious day.
+Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite puzzled Yuranigh, for
+we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and tracts they had set fire
+to, where trees still lay smoking.
+
+14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72 deg. of Fahrenheit;
+the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently determined by
+Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid down my
+survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have turned towards
+the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct northerly
+course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank, whence I had
+seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a brigalow range. After
+a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand curve in the river's
+course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found water near the
+spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined, and near
+which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank covered with
+brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding traces of a
+recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at less
+than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL--I mean not
+crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and
+refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs,
+a beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal
+spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a wash
+and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one sentiment
+of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water. Like "a giant
+refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the north-west, and
+passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very gradually, during a
+ride of three miles, to where I at length could discover that the fall
+was in the other direction. At this point, I observed the barometer,
+which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet. Fahrenheit's
+thermometer stood then (5 P.M.) at 86 deg.. The dry channel of a water-course
+had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had also guided us to
+the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the feet of three men
+in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives whose track
+Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were now going in the
+same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the smell of their
+burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning embers which had
+dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was flat, and on it the
+rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky gap (in a ridge) was
+still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set, and not a blade
+of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what was all this to
+the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With eager steps we
+followed a slight channel downwards; found that it descended more rapidly
+than the one by which we had ascended; that it also increased, and we
+were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with young grass, while
+yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected from several broad
+ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot, so opportunely and
+unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy flat by the margin
+of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group of bushes for
+shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with very heavy
+clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain.
+
+15TH SEPTEMBER.--As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards the gap,
+and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld downs
+and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision, bounded on the
+S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by higher ranges; the
+whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in which direction a
+line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to the remotest
+verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the realization of my
+long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N. W. in the heart
+of an open country extending also in that direction. Ulloa's delight at
+the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed mine on this
+occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was impressed at the moment
+have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being allowed to make such a
+discovery. From that rock, the scene was so extensive as to leave no room
+for doubt as to the course of the river, which, thus and there revealed
+to me alone, seemed like a reward direct from Heaven for perseverance,
+and as a compensation for the many sacrifices I had made, in order to
+solve the question as to the interior rivers of Tropical Australia. To an
+European, the prospect of an open country has a double charm in regions
+for the most part covered with primaeval forests, calling up pleasing
+reminiscences of the past, brighter prospects for the future--inspiring a
+sense of freedom, especially when viewed from the back of a good horse:--
+
+"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede, A sword of metal keene--All else
+to noble minds is drosse, All else on earth is meane!"  --OLD SONG.
+
+I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the
+gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse,
+which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open country.
+The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless downs
+appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on emerging
+from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much open
+plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke far in
+the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were inhabitants.
+The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly PANICUM
+LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it, SALSOLOE, and the
+ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed the river downwards,
+the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon as if interminable. This
+river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no sand in its bed, which
+consisted of firm clay, and contained deep hollows, and the beds of long
+reaches, then, however, all dry, while abundance of large UNIO shells lay
+upon the banks, and proved that the drought was not of common occurrence.
+The general course of the river I found to be about W.N.W. true. We
+continued to follow it through its windings all day, which I certainly
+should not have done, but for the sake of water, as our progress
+downwards was thus much retarded. Towards evening, Corporal Graham
+discovered water in a small tributary coming from the S.E., while
+Yuranigh found some also in the main channel, where that tributary fell
+into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this was called, and turned
+our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees in grass half dry,
+half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field to-morrow."
+The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was intense; but during
+the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under heaven's canopy
+and protection.
+
+16TH SEPTEMBER.--The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly formed
+clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to trace, as
+if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine
+regions of earth. At 7 A.M. the temperature was 63 deg.; and (from
+observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to
+be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and plains
+covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right. Beyond it,
+we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in proportion as we
+descended with the river. Some were much broken, and appeared to present
+precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended westward from
+between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range seemed to be an
+offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the river, below the
+supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its character
+altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was, however,
+scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 P.M., at the only hole
+we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA PENDULA formed a
+belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the open plains, and
+many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the rose cockatoo and
+crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and SOLANUM amongst the
+latter. At length, we saw before us, to the westward, bold precipitous
+hills, extending also to the southward of west. A thunder storm came over
+us, and night advancing, we halted without seeing more, for that day, of
+the interesting country before us, and having only water enough for our
+own use, the product of the shower. No pond was found for the horses,
+although we had searched for one, many miles in the bed of the river.
+Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks bore testimony that
+water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it did through the
+finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen.
+
+17TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at seven this morning was 57 deg.; our
+height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us from
+"repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of tomorrow's
+fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had found us unable
+either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to Providence, however, we
+went forward, and found a pond in the river bed, not distant more than
+two miles from where we had slept. In making a cut next through a
+brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the river, in a nearly
+westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and turned again into a
+brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good many miles, N.W.,
+through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain of dead brigalow;
+and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at length, upon open
+downs extending far to the northward. I continued to ride in that
+direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a range of
+flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most westerly
+portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us yesterday.
+They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening country was partly
+low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we were upon. But where
+was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of one appeared nearest
+to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some well-formed hollows
+on that side the downs. Towards that point I therefore shaped my course,
+and there found the river--no longer a chain of dry ponds in brigalow
+scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra trees, with open grassy banks,
+and containing long reaches full of water. White cockatoos shrieked above
+us; ducks floated, or flew about, and columns of smoke began to ascend
+from the woods before us. This was now, indeed, a river, and I lost no
+time in following it downwards. The direction was west; then north-west,
+tolerably straight. Water was abundant in its bed; the breadth was
+considerable, and the channel was well-marked by bold lofty banks. I
+remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan plains, growing here, on sand-islands
+of this river. The grass surpassed any I had ever seen in the colony in
+quality and abundance. The slow flying pelican appeared over our heads,
+and we came to a long broad reach covered with ducks, where the channel
+had all the appearance of a river of the first magnitude. The old mussle
+shells (UNIO) lay in heaps, like cart-loads, all along the banks, but
+still we saw none of the natives. Flames, however, arose from the woods
+beyond the opposite bank, at once in many directions, as if by magic, as
+we advanced. At 3 P.M. Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at
+90 deg.. Towards evening, we saw part of the bed dry, and found it
+continuously so, as night came on. The sun had set, while I still
+anxiously explored the dry recesses of the channel in search of water,
+without much hopes of success, when a wild yell arose from the woods back
+from the channel, which assured us that water was near. Towards that
+quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon found a fine pond in a small ana-
+branch, upon which we immediately halted, and took up our abode there for
+the night. It may seem strange that so small a number could act thus
+unmolested by the native tribes, but our safety consisted chiefly in the
+rapidity of our movements, and their terror of strangers wholly unknown,
+perhaps unheard of, arriving on the backs of huge animals, or centaurs
+whose tramp they had only heard at nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"
+
+----"rustling through the boortrees comin' Wi' eerie sought!"
+
+our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or annoyance
+being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we hoped to
+sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally unexpected by
+natives. Latitude, 24 deg. 34' 30" S.
+
+18TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the temperature of the air was 72 deg.; the height
+of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank for
+some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing clear
+downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the highest
+clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the ranges
+intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the northward
+of the river, whose general direction to the point already fixed had been
+22 deg. W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as far as I could
+judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the southward of the
+river also turned off, extending nearly to the southward. These two
+limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the river so as to leave it
+ample room to turn and wind on either side, amidst its accompanying
+woods, through grassy downs of great extent, obliged me to explore its
+course with closer attention. From another clear hill on these downs, to
+which I next proceeded, I thought I perceived the line of another river
+coming from ranges in the N.E., and expecting it would join that whose
+course we had thus far explored, I proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction
+over open downs towards the line of trees. I found therein a fine pond of
+water, the soil of the downs consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM
+and various SALSOLOE appeared in some parts. My horses being rather
+jaded, I halted rather early here, and laid down my journey, protracting
+also the angles I had observed of the points of distant ranges. Latitude,
+24 deg. 27' 27" S. I found by the barometer that we were already much lower
+than the rivers Salvator and Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the
+Belyando; while we were still remote from the channel we were pursuing.
+
+19TH SEPTEMBER.--The thermometer at 7 A.M. stood at 57 deg.. The height of
+these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has said, that a
+situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where a man should
+hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a sublime
+position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted to
+traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to
+witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a
+man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being, and
+of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable position he
+can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few wants supplied
+almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he falls in with
+water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence alone; and
+this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible, in
+journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man
+seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and
+disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely
+inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may
+venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a
+brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a perfectly
+level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward of west,
+to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible. Bushes
+of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them, we
+crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a
+concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue
+clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation;
+and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on
+which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four
+separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both
+amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I
+might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill was
+visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only downs
+and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant view,
+which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of our river
+appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we found here. In
+that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river, where, in a
+general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels. The grass
+was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate channels
+seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine clear
+downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade thermometer, 37 deg.,
+or 99 deg. of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the shade of a small
+clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the afternoon, three emus
+that had been feeding on the downs came inquisitively forward; curiosity,
+apparently inspiring them with more courage than even the human
+inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds, our bacon had become so
+impalatable that a change of diet was very desirable, and Graham,
+therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the quadruped inspiring more
+confidence in the bird. It was curious to witness the first meeting of
+the large indigenous bird and large exotic quadruped--such strange
+objects to each other! on the wide plains where either of them could
+
+----"overtake the south wind."
+
+One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that evening
+being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not slow in
+seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed. There my
+men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who, although unable to
+eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating emu flesh, although
+he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM, for the use of the
+white men. The channel of the river was still divided here, amongst
+brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight. Thermometer, at 6 P.M.,
+86 deg.. Height above the sea, 758 feet.
+
+20TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 78 deg.. Water appearing to be
+more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its general course
+in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay to the
+eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as belonging to
+another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first encountered a
+great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a rosewood scrub,
+redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we found the deep
+well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward. The bottom was
+rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river also spread into
+branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon open downs. Next
+we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with yarra trees, and
+coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles further on, we crossed
+another coming from N.E., on which, finding a good lagoon, I encamped
+early, that the men might have time to cook for themselves some of the
+emu, and that the horses might also have some sufficient rest. Latitude,
+24 deg. 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 P.M., 86 deg.. Height above the sea, 724
+feet.
+
+21ST SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer at 6 A.M., 63 deg.. I found that the various
+tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater tendency
+westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward of where
+we had passed the night. Its character was the same--a concatenation of
+ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled with water,
+apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of the adjacent
+country. The course next turned considerably to the southward of west,
+while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about westward. I found an
+open plain between these, across which I travelled; until, again meeting
+the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed to turn more to the
+northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours under the shade of
+some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper, and found we were
+making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a very open country. We
+were no longer in doubt about finding water, although in the heart of
+Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon. On proceeding, we passed
+some large huts near the river, which were of a more substantial
+construction, and also on a better plan than those usually set up by the
+aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof had first been
+erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and, thereupon thin square
+portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond of water being near,
+we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the night. At 5 P.M. the
+thermometer was at 82 deg.. Height above the sea, 707 feet.
+
+22D SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 58 deg.. This was no sandybedded
+river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of firm
+clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much novelty,
+that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was nevertheless
+tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and carry them
+amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was curious. One
+plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were others
+resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with white
+turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS. Among the
+grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that formerly seen
+on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA PECTINATA, gathered
+in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst the grasses a
+PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly collected in the
+tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very remarkable new
+species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow panicle, and
+little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river again
+formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the wide
+open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we had
+indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely
+interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our
+journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had
+left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over
+the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with
+their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And
+so we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived
+at the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose
+impetuous floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged
+with drift matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of
+400 yards. The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal
+water lay in ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned
+with brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand
+the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down
+there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad
+a water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just
+below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort
+of a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the
+direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel.
+About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the
+broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican
+and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in
+such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them,
+as to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed
+diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces had,
+at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that,
+although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure
+alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes rose.
+Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole together
+forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two kinds of
+grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass, possessing the
+remarkable property of shooting up green from the old stalk.
+
+[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium
+plumosis, panicula pilosa angusta interrupta ramulis inferioribus demum
+refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis
+villosis, foliis......]
+
+The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their
+extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito.
+Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus
+occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found
+with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine
+gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine
+flavoured.
+
+I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked
+navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles,
+beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside
+one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would
+have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on
+a verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El
+Dorado of Australia. At 2 P.M. thermometer 88 deg.. Height above the sea 712
+feet.
+
+23D SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. thermometer 59 deg.. Latitude 24 deg. 2' S. New flowers
+perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their forms and
+structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted I could
+not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our
+provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had
+been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our little
+stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any
+privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed
+half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this
+interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack
+horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we
+threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it
+in portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The
+course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to
+stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the
+river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees
+on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river,
+but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We next
+traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay with
+gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen nowhere
+else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a river
+flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore impetuous
+floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I called it
+the Alice.
+
+As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the westward
+or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely variegated
+with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to the
+horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of this
+kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and water
+in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at 3
+P.M., 90 deg. in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by pigeons, and
+a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous that five were
+killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite, the
+wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no means of
+preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height above the
+sea here, 826 feet.
+
+[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.]
+
+24TH SEPTEMBER.--I continued to seek the river across extensive downs, in
+many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained, apparently as if the
+decay of that species of scrub gave place to open ground. I turned now to
+the S.W., and became anxious to see the river again. At length we came
+upon a creek, which I followed down, first to the S.W. and next
+southerly, until it was time to alight, when we established our bivouac
+by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24 deg. 3' 30" S. Thermometer, at 3
+P.M. 98 deg.. Height above the sea, 688 feet.
+
+25TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer stood at 73 deg.. We ought to have
+been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on for our
+stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without tracing it
+to the furthest accesible point. We still continued, therefore, to follow
+the water-course which had brought us thus far, expecting at every turn
+to find its junction with the river, whose course had obviously turned
+more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a larger tributary from
+the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took a more westerly
+direction than the minor channel which brought us to it. We thus came
+upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very numerous tribe
+of natives, who appeared to have been there very recently, as some of the
+fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and large permanent huts,
+were seen beyond that encampment; and it was plain that we had entered
+the home of a numerous tribe. I should have gladly avoided them at that
+time, had not a sight of the river been indispensable, and the course of
+the creek we were upon, the only certain guide to it. Level plains
+extended along its banks, and I had been disappointed by the appearance
+of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the banks of large lagoons. On
+approaching one of these, loud shrieks of many women and children, and
+the angry voices of men, apprised me that we had, at length, overtaken
+the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come upon them by surprise. "AYA
+MINYA!" was vociferated repeatedly, and was understood to mean, "What do
+you want!" (What seek ye in the land of Macgregor!) I steadily adhered to
+my new plan of tactics towards the aborigines, and took not the slightest
+notice of them, but steadily rode forward, according to my compass
+bearing. On looking back for my men, I saw one beckoning me to return. He
+had observed two natives, with spears and clubs, hide themselves behind a
+bush in the direction in which I was advancing. On my halting, they stole
+away, and, when a little further on, I perceived an old white-haired
+woman before me, on seeing whom I turned slightly to one side, that we
+might not frighten her or provoke the tribe. The whole party seemed to
+have been amusing themselves in the water during the noon-day heat, which
+was excessive; and the cool shades around the lagoon looked most
+luxuriant. Our position, on the contrary, was anything but enviable. With
+jaded horses scarcely able to lift a leg, amongst so many natives, whose
+language was incomprehensible, even to Yuranigh. I asked him whether we
+might not come to a parley with them, and see if they could understand
+him. His answer was brief; and, without turning even his head once to
+look at them:--"You go on!" which advice, quite according with my own
+notions, founded on experience, I willingly went on. Even there, in the
+heart of the interior, on a river utterly unheard of by white men, an
+iron tomahawk glittered on high in the hand of a chief, having a very
+long handle to it. The anxious care of the females to carry off their
+children seemed the most agreeable feature in the scene, and they had a
+mode of carrying them on the haunch, which was different from anything I
+had seen. Some had been digging in the mud for worms, others searching
+for freshwater muscles; and if the whole could have been witnessed
+unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst the aborigines had
+been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed a strange attitude,
+which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the right knee bent, the
+left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but grasping clubs; the left
+arm raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya, aya, minya!" they
+continually shouted; and well might they ask what we wanted! Hoping they
+would believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two old pack-horses in
+counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire to let them know us
+more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at length, to hear their
+"Aya minyas" grow fainter, and that we were leaving them behind. About
+five miles further south, the perfume from the liliaceous banks of the
+river was the first indication of its vicinity. We found it full 400
+yards broad, presenting its usual characteristics,--several separate
+channels and ponds of water; there, according to the barometer, the
+height above the sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at 3 P. M., in
+the shade, 99 deg. of Fahrenheit. We watered our horses, crossed, and plunged
+into the brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a march upon the noisy
+tribe; who, by that time, probably were sending to call in their hunting
+parties, that they might follow our track. Their mode of killing a
+kangaroo may best exemplify their tactics towards strangers; whose path
+in the same manner could be followed by day, and sat down beside at
+night, to be again tracked in the morning, until the object of pursuit
+could be overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew on a rising ground
+of sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I saw the course of
+the river running nearly northward. Here, then, I turned towards the east
+to travel home by ascending the left bank, with the intention to cut off
+the great sweep which the river described, as we had found on tracing it
+down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any tributaries it might
+receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one containing a fine lagoon,
+and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most firmly objected to our
+sitting down close by the water, saying we might there be too easily
+speared by the wild natives who were then, probably, on our track; but he
+did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain adjacent, one man
+keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's ponds. Latitude, 24 deg.
+19' 2" S.
+
+26TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A. M. the thermometer stood at 61 deg.. My horse was
+quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's
+journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed
+through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was
+grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of
+mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,--the fragments being much
+of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting, for the
+most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six miles, we
+saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that the left
+bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to the
+northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly
+water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped;
+resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most
+thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24 deg. 12' 37" S.
+Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 92 deg..
+
+27TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 68 deg.. On laying down my work on
+paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way homewards,
+our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from us, and
+distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E.
+passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it
+should be required.
+
+It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants,
+the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the
+natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a
+few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire,
+each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the
+head reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and
+thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their
+occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no
+respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for
+washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in
+mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint that
+clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that
+would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would
+probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that
+sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do
+with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children
+of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but
+that the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the
+savages of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men
+on their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the
+naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean
+tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of
+similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only
+impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or
+however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What,
+then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to
+inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated
+man despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow.
+Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition
+of knowledge--the gratification of mind--the raptures of the poet, or the
+delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst
+civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that
+the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or
+gold as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in
+lofty minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is
+worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be
+said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my
+reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while
+protected from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how
+long these dreams under it would continue undisturbed.
+
+"The mind is its own place, and in itself Can make a heaven of hell: a
+hell of heaven!"
+
+Thermometer, at 6 P. M., 90 deg..
+
+28TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 63 deg.. The horses were much
+refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our journey
+in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs, meeting no
+impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches of a
+considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this day,
+besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according to
+its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and encamped
+on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had
+previously crossed.
+
+This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range
+to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and
+so determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature,
+Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold summit
+forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained data
+sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of the
+river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges.
+The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like
+sandstone. At 6 P.M., the temperature was 81 deg..
+
+29TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M., the thermometer was 59 deg.. Re-crossing the
+river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th
+September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We
+crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus identifying
+it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered with grass,
+and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange flowers, which
+grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the spot I sought,
+and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the sun having
+reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had been boiled
+before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon, in such warm
+weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have then been very
+good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had out-manoeuvred the
+natives, the weather had been so hot that, nevertheless, we could not
+"save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 P.M., 83 deg..
+
+30TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 67 deg.. I found, by my map, that I
+might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of 18th
+September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the downs.
+We accordingly set out on the bearing of 51/2 deg. S. of E., and hit the spot
+exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so as to afford
+some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly, passed
+through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice crossed
+a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The water-
+course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of fine firm
+clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the
+waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of the
+country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river we
+had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from
+others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be
+rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to
+carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run.
+
+1ST OCTOBER.--Our track back across the downs, brought again into view
+the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its
+salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head of
+the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above the
+trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the
+salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first
+advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river
+this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded
+with the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a
+distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we
+at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes
+came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the
+horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our
+former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head,
+so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained
+the bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA.
+
+But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives
+could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more
+willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve
+a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into
+tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,--a river
+leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE
+SPICES GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from
+Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's providence,
+in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus affording
+access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon peopled
+by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal, and
+loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious
+sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the plants
+along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which lay
+about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen
+elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a
+half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA,
+resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr.
+Bentham.[*] We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to
+make the tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset;
+the moon was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for
+water, until we again fell in with our former track, near the place where
+we had watered our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On
+hastening to the pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days
+had dried it up, and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most
+unpleasant privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost
+vertical sun. The river must receive a great addition below this branch
+from the Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we
+had this day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on
+our left, or to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up
+the waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so
+effectually, that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus
+becoming open downs.
+
+[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus,
+phyllodiis linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis
+enervibus, glandula prope basin immersa, pedunculis glaberrimis
+gracilibus racemosis capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.]
+
+2D OCTOBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59 deg.. The
+height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I sent
+Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to contain
+water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods,
+welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the
+spot, where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our
+wants. For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all
+that was required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less
+assiduously, although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it
+under such circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost
+indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former
+bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour.
+Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts
+were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any
+of them.
+
+3D OCTOBER.--Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were again
+seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus
+afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their
+hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham
+succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped. He
+then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards us,
+when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark and
+number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of future
+reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again, into
+this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this
+bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight
+course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route
+along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us
+back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the
+figures 72.
+
+4TH OCTOBER.--We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the temperature, at
+9 A.M., was 79 deg.,) and alighted by the pond at the junction of the Nivelle
+and Nive; near where we had passed the night of the 12th September. This
+day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so characteristic of sandy soils,
+but of which we had not observed a single specimen in the extensive
+country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree.
+
+5TH OCTOBER.--Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass before
+me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost the
+first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted,
+and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the
+same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a
+position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head
+erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The
+deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the
+fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and
+did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted
+thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him, and
+was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a charge
+of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be despatched.
+This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly, about six
+feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before known any
+Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly brought the
+attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former circuitous route
+when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our former bivouac at an
+early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds, formerly full of good
+water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I proceeded to cross the
+scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction towards Mount Pluto. But
+some magnetic influence so deranged my compass, that, on reaching the
+crest of the range, I found that mountain bore nearly east instead of N.
+E. N. I saw three of my fixed points, however, by which, with my pocket
+sextant, I could ascertain our true position, which proved to be very
+wide of my intended course. It was, like many other accidental
+frustrations of my plans in this journey, an aberration that did us good,
+for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub formerly passed through, and
+also a rocky part of the range. We next descended into a valley in which,
+after following down a dry watercourse two miles, we found a fine pond of
+water, exactly as the sun was setting. This day I had shot a curious
+bird, somewhat resembling a small turkey, in a tree. The feathers were
+black; the head was bare and red. This fowl was apparently of the
+galinaceous tribe. The flesh was delicious, and afforded a most timely
+dinner to the party. A numerous body of natives had followed our former
+track across the rocky ranges we traversed this day, as appeared by their
+foot-marks, and Yuranigh also discovered, in the same manner, that three
+natives had this morning preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw
+none of these denizens of the woods.
+
+6TH OCTOBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 48 deg.. Height above the sea, 696
+feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the Pyramids;
+but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount Pluto, from
+which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked this
+bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively marked,
+71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series from
+LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando.
+
+The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and
+plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and
+myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced at
+the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I
+found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly passed
+the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses, the
+grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass had
+been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest
+sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above
+the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the
+mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much
+Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although
+well covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W.
+side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct
+the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides.
+The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I passed
+an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount Owen and
+Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the East, and
+some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just visible
+across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with Mount
+Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In the S.
+W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate westward, in
+abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as far as known),
+the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters. What that country
+is, was a most interesting point, which I was very reluctant to leave
+still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the westward of this trio,
+which thus seem to mark the place where the upheaving forces have most
+affected the interior structure of Australia. The temperature on Mount
+Pluto, at noon, was 90 deg.; and the elevation above the sea, 2420 feet.
+
+On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck into
+the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although it
+was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward of Mount
+Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke in the
+direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the party left
+there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud cheers.
+All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in high
+condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some
+curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so
+as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked green
+and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most refreshing home
+both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we had almost
+constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected specimens of
+XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple INDIGOFERA
+AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel, a hairy
+shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA PULCHELLA
+Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found on the rocky ground
+near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the summits of the
+pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills, were gathered,
+AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though, almost leafless herb,
+with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles below the camp a
+species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp., was found; and
+among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to, but probably
+distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn.
+
+The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed a
+shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having much
+resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII grew
+about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was seen on the
+sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there also grew
+the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small shrub six
+feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS,
+also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only two feet
+high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet high in
+similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still abundant on the
+sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the POMAX HIRTA, a plant six
+inches high.
+
+[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis
+impunctatis brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus
+leviter revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis
+trifloris folio brevioribus.--Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE.
+Detected by Fraser on Mount Lindsay.]
+
+At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA
+formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a
+small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer
+specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA
+ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the
+SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a
+shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy
+leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its
+silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of
+twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the
+beautiful LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer
+state, near Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered
+ravines amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with
+its four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high. On
+the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved,
+glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green
+flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in
+flower). The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species
+of ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage,
+relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of
+Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that genus,
+according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which proved to
+be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the precipices[*]; a
+new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new RUTIDOSIS, a tall
+herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved GREVILLEA, with
+yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with inconspicuous
+flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of Comesperm,
+about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or downy stems; it
+was allied to C. RETUSA.[******]
+
+[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis
+subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis
+falcatoellipticis v. oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis
+minute 1-2- glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo
+longioribus, capitulis multifloris tomentosis.--Near A. CALEYI and A.
+VESTITA. Phyllodia from an inch and a half to two inches long, half an
+inch broad, resembling much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.]
+
+[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis
+cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis axillaribus
+terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem foliosam magis minusve
+congestis.]
+
+[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis
+remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis
+longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.--A widely
+distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus
+(R. HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.]
+
+[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis,
+foliis rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis
+glabris marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis
+perianthiisque sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis,
+stylis glabris, folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.]
+
+[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis
+apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque
+glandulosis.--In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below.
+The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved
+outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA.
+W. I. H.]
+
+[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus
+pubescentibus glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis
+terminalibus, bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.]
+
+On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants
+which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from
+three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a
+small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet
+high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES,
+Desf.[***]; a downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner
+truncated leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the
+mountain, grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but
+with the stature of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or
+eight feet high.[*]
+
+[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis
+sphacelatoapiculatis molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe
+attenuatis uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus
+bracteisque sericeis.]
+
+[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis
+puberula, foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-
+oblongis spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis
+pluriesve longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.]
+
+[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus
+masculis triandris.]
+
+[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa, foliis
+brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis
+tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.]
+
+[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis
+erectosubincurvis longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti
+subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis
+brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix
+basi cohaerentibus.--Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are
+five, six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA.
+It differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.]
+
+[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime
+linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris
+subtus albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis,
+ovariis semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo
+glabro.--Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently
+purple.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--ASCENT
+OF MOUNT FARADAY.--RETURN TO THE WARREGO.--A NATIVE OLD MAN.--PASS BY
+MOUNT OWEN.--THE MARANOA.--RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.--ITS TRIBUTARIES.--
+NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.--POSSESSION CREEK.--A HORSE KILLED BY ACCIDENT.--
+APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.--FIND ALL WELL THERE.--MANY PLANTS
+FOUND THERE.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.--RIDE TO MOUNT
+SOWERBY.--FOSSILS FOUND THERE.----THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPOT
+CAMP.--TRACE THE MARANOA DOWNWARDS.--OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--REQUISITE PONDS.--REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.--TRACES
+OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.--THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT ST.
+GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A DIRECT
+LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.
+
+7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.--THESE two days were devoted to the completion of my
+maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the birds seen on the
+Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I had enough to do
+in my tent, although the heat was intense.
+
+9TH OCTOBER.--Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles, to
+take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined the
+sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious
+organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my
+absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone
+strata, and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of
+sandstone underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men
+were on very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be
+disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before
+encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly
+overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the
+heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was evidently
+discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain commenced to
+fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during four hours. Such
+a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I could not be so
+vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our benefit alone, I
+felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the cavernous hill
+the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of umbelliferous
+plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of the COMESPERMA
+SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind observed in September,
+it did not grow above one foot high. A small shrub grew on the rocks, a
+pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A Cunn. (from Port Essington
+and Melville Island); but the branches, with their leaves, are more
+stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker supposes it to be a new
+species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved plant, with long
+branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which Professor de Vriese
+has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural order of Goodeniads, and
+which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*] Thermometer, meter, at sunrise,
+60 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae
+quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque auriculato-
+crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne appendice
+proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes, cohaerentes.
+Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium uniovulatum; stylus
+inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in nuce solitarium.
+
+Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho,
+itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero
+geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia
+Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus
+characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum generibus
+huc usque cognitis, diversa.
+
+L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis,
+petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide
+viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia
+spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi
+bracteolatis, corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis;
+paracorollis nigrescentibus.
+
+Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in Nova-
+Hollandia subtropica.
+
+Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII
+de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est
+teres. Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 11/2 cent. lata,
+petiolata, petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere 1/2 cent.
+longo, integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata,
+fere alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-
+lanceolatae, utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere
+10-15 cent. longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi
+communes 5-10 cent. longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores
+alterni, sessiles, bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi,
+limbis obsoletis; corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis,
+externe medio calycis instar hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis
+corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere hiantibus, interiori mediaeque
+loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera, filiformia, antherae his
+continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe.--DE VRIESE.]
+
+10TH OCTOBER.--We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in fine
+condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the
+reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and
+weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did not
+think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer
+sometimes above 100 deg., and therefore I was more desirous to retire from
+it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the summit
+of Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my map. Mr.
+Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects, while I
+ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above the sea.
+The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS ELATIOR,
+PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a villous
+form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow,
+closepressed leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the
+crater being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the
+summit. On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had
+arrived there at 3 P. M., the distance travelled comprising two former
+days' journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none
+had been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now
+beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its panicles
+of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four feet high,
+was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy variety of
+LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open ground; the
+ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open forest we
+found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA, a spiny-
+leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the EUPHORBIA
+EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr. Stephenson and
+I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that we only reached
+the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58 deg.; at noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 82; at 9, 62 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis
+linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis
+nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus
+albopubescentibus.--Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves,
+which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and
+in the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a
+broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.]
+
+[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus
+patentibus vestitis. G. B.]
+
+[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25
+obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis,
+racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus
+ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.]
+
+[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis
+segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis
+pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis
+subtuberculatis.]
+
+[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis
+fastigiatis foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris,
+capsulis globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.--Collected by Allan
+Cunningham in Dirk Hartog's island.]
+
+11TH OCTOBER.--Following the chord of the arc described by our journeys
+of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warrego, I made the
+furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing
+through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us
+here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a
+few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.; at
+noon, 80 deg.; at 4 P. M. 88 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+12TH OCTOBER.--This day we also turned two former days' journeys into
+one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 P. M., the ponds at the
+intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains had
+left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our horses on
+the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of the
+HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the scales of
+the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, occurred in
+the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after we set out in
+the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley towards us,
+without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not until he
+had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran up
+amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop, when
+repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small bag on
+his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was grey but
+very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully frightened,
+which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained from him some
+information about the ultimate course of the Warrego, etc. We found water
+in one of the rocky ponds near our former encampment, but others in which
+some had formerly been found, were dry, and I was not without some doubt
+about finding water, on our way back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 42 deg.; at noon, 87 deg.; at 4 P. M., 96 deg.; at 9, 78 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+60 deg..
+
+13TH OCTOBER.--The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79 deg. here, where
+in June last it had been as low as 7 deg.. The sky had been clouded, but the
+morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in passing amongst the
+sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount Owen the day became
+very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On Mount Owen Mr.
+Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow flowers[*], and the
+SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink flowers. We took up our
+old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest of water. The ponds
+formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a deep one in the solid
+rock, containing enough for months. It was inaccessible to horses, but
+with a bucket we watered both these and the bullocks. The mercurial
+column was low, the sky became overcast, and a slight shower raised our
+hopes that at length rain might fall in sufficient quantity to relieve us
+from the difficulty about water, in returning towards Mr. Kennedy's camp.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 63 deg.; at noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis
+reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo
+longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo
+brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.--Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA,
+but of the same form.]
+
+14TH OCTOBER.--During the night several smart showers fell, and at
+daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather
+heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our
+former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the
+Maranoa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the
+large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th
+June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it
+might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent
+supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 60 deg.; at noon, 71 deg.; at 4 P. M., 66 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+48 deg..
+
+15TH OCTOBER.--Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was cold,
+the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The morning
+presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather being
+rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the men
+dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at first
+endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its
+course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that
+I left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former
+track. We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old
+track at a convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the
+camp of 15th June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had
+cleared up, and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing
+from S.E. On the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or
+Australian form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran
+before Mr. Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little
+bush at the foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like
+a hare, and left a similar track. It was about the size of a small
+rabbit. The death of our dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and
+drought, had been a very serious loss to us, as we found on many
+occasions like this; and where kangaroos, of apparently rare species,
+escaped from us from our having no dogs. We were, also, from want of such
+dogs, much more exposed to attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 50 deg..
+
+16TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze from
+east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little
+river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher ground
+grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four feet high.
+At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river beside
+that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and, early in
+the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next camp at
+Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry; but, on
+following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction with the
+Maranoa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin of water
+at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low trailing
+bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of a
+European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an entire-
+leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS BRACHIATUS,
+with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground near the
+river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the men eagerly
+asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern NICOTIANA
+SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+42 deg.. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.)
+
+17TH OCTOBER.--The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point this
+morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In crossing
+Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent natives.
+From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII, where we arrived
+early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I followed the dry
+channel down to its junction, and found the Maranoa full of water; this
+point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We had this day
+passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also groves of the
+ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed drooping, from the
+want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing purposes. We saw,
+this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry forest land; and the
+purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA SPECTABILIS formed a
+spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA LEIOCARPA, and
+CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new MYRIOGYNE[*], and a
+small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt, glaueous leaves,
+tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an orange, proved
+to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**]
+
+[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti,
+caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis
+punctatis, capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.--Very different
+from any described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.]
+
+[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis
+crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris
+dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.]
+
+It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the
+brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be described.
+If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he knows.
+
+The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in
+seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may
+be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a
+precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the
+river. One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which,
+falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much
+hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man,
+leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to
+particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been enforced
+by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.;
+at 4 P.M., 79 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 45 deg..
+
+18TH OCTOBER.--The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and apparently
+dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the creek. This
+loss, when we were so near our depot camp, was much to be regretted, as
+we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and horse, after an
+absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days. We saw not a
+single native about the woods or the river, and were, therefore, the more
+anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives had agreed at the depot
+camp, now within a day's ride of us. We continued to follow our former
+track to Camp XXXI, and it may be remarked, to their credit, that the
+aborigines had not attempted to deface any of these marked trees. It
+might have occurred, even to them, that such marks were preparatory to
+the advent of more white men into their country. The fine, deep reaches
+in the river, looked still full and unfailing; and a short journey to-
+morrow would take us to the camp of the rest of the party. We this day
+found a little jasmine in flower, of which Mr. Stephenson had formerly
+collected the seeds. It was white, not more than a foot high, with
+solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful fragrance, and it grew in
+the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with pods, which the
+natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker to be the
+BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of Cunn. Here was
+picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the genus PIMELEA,
+with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and by the river we
+found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS.
+
+[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis
+sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis
+longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.]
+
+[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus
+pilis paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.]
+
+The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and a half
+had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long time
+to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained undisturbed,
+although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by savages.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P.M., 86 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 48 deg..
+
+19TH OCTOBER.--The party was early in motion along the old track. Leaving
+the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country so as to
+hit the track again within a few miles of the depot camp. Old tracks of
+cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE, were the
+first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we see any
+thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging the
+river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even
+recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they see
+us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle.
+Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the cliffs,
+while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men heartily
+responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and was the first
+to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party were well;
+that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the aborigines had
+never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up; a storehouse had
+also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and contained lettuce,
+radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole establishment evinced the
+good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had
+collected many birds and plants, and had also been careful of the stores.
+The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown very much, and seemed
+a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse Mr. Kennedy had had
+with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my instructions to him, was
+curiously characteristic of the tact and originality of this singular
+race. On one occasion, when on being informed that natives were near, he
+had hastened to meet them, taking little Dicky with him, he found
+remaining only a female and her mother, a remarkably old woman, who had
+before concealed herself among the reeds. The daughter on his approach
+sung a beautiful song, rapidly running through the whole gammut. Then
+bowing her head, she presented the back of it to him, and placing her
+stone-tomahawk in his hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the
+tomahawk on the ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he
+prevailed on the mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was
+much more AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to
+denounce the white men;--her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if
+prophetic of the advent of another race, and the certain failure of her
+own.
+
+The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged
+parent, playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully
+protruding lip. Mr. Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the
+downward course of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point
+also, that the river passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she
+named, and even the Culgoa: she seemed to say the name of that locality
+was "Mundi." Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger
+wore, by way of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac,
+suspended by a cord from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the
+daughter, with a graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to
+the stranger, waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy
+and Dicky immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy
+Dicky away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:--"Sunday,
+26th July. Prayers were read at 11 A.M., after which, having been told by
+Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a
+native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky
+than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what
+information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I
+had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the
+natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first
+object that caught my eye was the bait--a gin, dancing before some
+admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by
+great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were
+gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him
+Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its
+general course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our
+impression was that he called it Balun. With respect to its course, he
+plainly said that it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the
+direction of that river and then following with his hand, the various
+windings of this branch; repeating the while some word implying 'walk,
+walk,' and ending with 'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyego. After this conversation he took some fat, which he
+appeared to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing
+it, and then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him,
+and (as Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men,
+who were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they
+obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite
+direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and
+disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking
+back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our
+tents, and that no white man should go to his camp."
+
+It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at
+most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the
+river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so
+long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it,
+as our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale,
+the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of
+the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August, plants
+had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had been found
+in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook. EURYBIOPSIS
+MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA; GOODENIA
+CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety of BORONIA
+BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the leaves simply
+pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new species of EURYBIA
+and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA? with the habit of
+Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose LEUCOPOGON; a
+species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was covered with
+wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA, apparently the
+same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling, but taller and
+less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed; SWAINSONA
+CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES
+DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with
+unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both
+perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM,
+with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves
+nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM,
+closely resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle
+of St. Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the
+Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****]
+A beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****]
+A new LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA
+VIRGATA (Hook. MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new
+DODONOEA in the way of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender
+flower stalks.[*********]
+
+[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis
+rigidis apice nudis, spica composita laxa tenui villosa, glumis pilosis,
+paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta
+ligulam villosis.]
+
+[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis
+elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis
+crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin,
+racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis
+multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis,
+ovario tomentoso.--Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten
+inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.]
+
+[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus
+radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longe
+pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.]
+
+[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis
+linearioblongis pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus
+paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris,
+antherarum calcare longiore loculum superante.--The foliage and flowers
+look at first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN
+EUPHRASIOE. The leaves are about three lines long.]
+
+[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis
+angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.--Young
+buds rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre
+having a slight tinge of purple.]
+
+[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis
+membranaceis oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus
+villosisve, calycibus subsessilibus villosis.]
+
+[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis
+patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis
+crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio
+triplo longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.]
+
+[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-
+tomentosis, foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra
+pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis
+fulvescentibus, stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis
+axillaribus unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo
+longioribus.]
+
+[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis
+elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore,
+pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis
+rotundatis.]
+
+In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS
+SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES
+LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.;
+CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with
+yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader
+haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA
+OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub
+with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of
+SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence;
+SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA;
+LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A.
+HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both
+sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river
+Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct
+from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill.
+PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf,
+herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A
+PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS;
+PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS, R.
+Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA; XEROTES
+LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, R. Br.
+GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it: exactly the same
+species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but
+smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS; BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA,
+apparently new. A new and fine species of MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved
+species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA
+CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM, with conical flower-
+heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple flowers.[******] A new
+species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******] Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 46 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+47 deg..
+
+[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis,
+foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis
+sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis,
+corolla calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.--Near M. AUSTRALIS
+Br., but the leaves broader and flowers larger.]
+
+[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis
+rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis
+glandulosi glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato,
+antherarum calcaribus loculo brevioribus.--Foliage nearly that of P.
+RHOMBEA. Flowers much larger.]
+
+[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis
+13- 15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice
+paucifloris, legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.--A low plant with
+much the habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller
+than in S. CORONILLOEFOLIA.]
+
+[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis,
+foliis angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos
+breves solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra
+medium inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario
+parvo globoso lanato.]
+
+[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis
+ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spica
+conica, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosa.]
+
+[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue
+dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve
+obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris
+solitariis folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-
+fido calycem 5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.--This species was
+also found by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple,
+sometimes yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable,
+monophyllous, broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the
+calyx.--W. J. H.]
+
+[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis
+ovalioblongis sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis
+pubescentibus, pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in
+pedunculo brevissimo solitariis geminisve.]
+
+20TH OCTOBER.--It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the
+blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the
+horses. I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles
+eastward of the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The
+hill consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were
+imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt wood,
+and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of wood, young
+shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire; showing the
+black scarified parts, and those left untouched or unscarified, very
+plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn, and were full
+of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed to the sun. These
+specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer parts came off in
+soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant, although they
+felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather isolated,
+but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's Pass,
+and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which forms a
+nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this hill,
+to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The
+weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount Sowerby;
+the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and amongst the
+grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO, perhaps not distinct
+from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 56 deg.; 4
+P.M., 87 deg.; at 9, 67 deg.; with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+21ST OCTOBER.--I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to which I
+had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle from it on
+Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show him many of
+the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was about to lay
+down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land, extending from
+the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about twelve miles.
+On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little PTEROSTYLIS,
+quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a new
+KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious new
+form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a new
+JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short
+axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley
+after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet
+flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the
+LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a
+smallflowered species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA
+PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4, P.M., 84 deg.; at
+9, 65 deg. with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis,
+vaginis scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli
+lamina ovato-lineari obtusa canaliculata supra pilis (luteis) articulatis
+crinita.]
+
+[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve
+mucronulatis utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-
+lanceolatis acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris
+petiolo multo longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.--Flowers considerably
+smaller than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.]
+
+[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris
+margine spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spica cylindracea
+disticha secunda, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente,
+paleae inferioris dorso lanatae arista recta gluma mucronata multinervi
+longiore.]
+
+[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus
+linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus
+subsessilibus foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus
+subtruncatis 5-dentatis, corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.]
+
+22D OCTOBER.--The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the natives,
+about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which, even on
+foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from the camp),
+and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES PEELII had,
+at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this river
+was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first
+followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy about.
+By following this down, the probability that we should find water seemed
+greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left behind
+some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water remaining,
+especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I therefore
+determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its course. We
+left the depot camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging cliffs on
+the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The camp we left,
+namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depot camp," will be found a
+valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first squatter coming
+this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the natives few and
+inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it very
+complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had become
+slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even, indeed,
+perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had fallen
+two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches
+lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was
+perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party,
+and encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly
+crossed by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats
+by the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became
+darkgreen not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not
+depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive
+as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with
+them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the
+grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of
+bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr.
+Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that
+the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net
+untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at
+9, 70 deg.; with wet bulb, 56 deg.. Height above the sea, 1185 feet (Camp 76).
+
+23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
+drays, which only took place at 1/2 past 11, A.M. The cattle were found to
+be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
+Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
+Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
+directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
+rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
+DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid,
+with a denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
+(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
+were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.; at
+noon, 91 deg.; at 4 P. M., 93 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
+ovatiscordatis acutis argute crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
+pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
+calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J. Backhouse
+MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive range; having
+been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane River by Fraser
+and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All. Cunningham.]
+
+[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
+Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i. p.
+147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
+
+24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered upon
+an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank of the
+river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south. The
+cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
+plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
+twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
+whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
+route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
+higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not then
+suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course was so
+favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of these
+extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered as
+they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
+open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
+downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
+remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
+camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this
+was numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
+surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they
+will not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also
+enable the land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map
+of the country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the
+afternoon, and the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a
+clear starry sky, at 9 P. M., admitted of our observations as usual.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 58 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 47 deg.. Height above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.)
+
+[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
+integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
+terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
+broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
+and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20
+feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
+
+25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I had
+perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
+or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
+ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
+approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
+contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
+brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
+eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
+extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
+east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped
+after a journey of 10 1/3 miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
+south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
+with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our former
+route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
+neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
+country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at
+noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 94 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--with wet bulb, 51 deg.. Height above
+the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
+
+26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranoa, about a mile from our
+camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its course
+throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
+these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranoa on
+our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
+pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20 deg. E. of S.
+At length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N.
+W., full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed
+the main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of
+broad blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of
+the Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous
+ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land.
+Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the
+river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the
+grass was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered
+over the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of
+whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed of
+the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish
+(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in
+the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings,
+showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes
+continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such
+circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones,
+some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the
+nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and
+made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted
+wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or
+moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I could
+not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+93 deg.; at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
+
+27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
+found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
+islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course,
+and contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the
+bush was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she
+had ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us
+without any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-
+forward course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the
+name of the river; to which question she replied, in his own language,
+"The name of that water is Maranoa:" thus confirming the name we had
+already understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It
+proved the accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first
+communicated to him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The
+gin appeared to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female
+wore no sort of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal
+who may have been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling
+about fourteen miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and
+encamped beside it. Thermometer, at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 95 deg.; at 9, 77 deg.;--wet bulb, 65 deg.. Height above the sea, 832 feet.
+(Camp 80.)
+
+[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-
+ovatis trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-
+serratis, subtus bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet
+high. Flowers scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan
+river.]
+
+28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I most
+willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
+sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
+presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
+woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
+characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
+their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees;
+have half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like
+the willow, the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and
+I was informed by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives
+call it "Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in
+waterholes. They are too honest and fair in their fights to think of
+poisoning their weapons. The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly
+characteristic of its deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline
+resembling Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,--
+
+--"who dwelt about the very gates of death, Pale misery had worn him to
+the bones."
+
+Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 A. M., after which we had a
+cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
+for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
+dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.; at
+noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--wet bulb, 51 deg..
+
+29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so much
+ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to bullocks
+or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter want
+of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country was
+open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
+reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and
+drivers, had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and
+measuring twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this
+seemed only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain
+what was beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards.
+We found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
+main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
+to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped. We
+discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
+Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and covered
+with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face being
+rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan; for
+which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling those
+made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on this
+shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
+the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
+these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed
+for war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at noon,
+68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.;--with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
+
+30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the dry
+channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of our
+former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of water
+was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which was by
+following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush would
+allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while we
+proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having halted the
+small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with Yuranigh, but
+all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a part of the sandy
+bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough he thrust in, that
+there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I returned,
+determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock teams had
+also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that Drysdale,
+having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had been led to
+the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the cattle had
+been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding water the dog
+was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We had come about
+fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on the map. On doing
+this, I found we had at length attained a point from whence, in case of
+necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if no water were found
+in the country intervening, the direct distance being under forty miles.
+During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found, higher up than the
+first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then to proceed
+prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the Balonne,
+but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would oblige us to
+go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P. M., 78 deg.;
+at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they found a dry
+sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my first ride
+from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I was myself
+engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 84 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.--wet bulb, 43 deg..
+Height above the sea, 882 feet.
+
+1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose beside
+Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded. After
+travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of inundation,
+and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for water, Yuranigh
+found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I encamped,
+resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be traversed in
+uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found rocky ridges on
+the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives in the
+woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the aspect of
+drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral country,
+traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I think this
+want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in that back
+country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance, the Cogoon.
+
+2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward, prepared
+to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water until we
+arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we were to
+traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the country
+appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel of the
+river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
+sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
+formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
+north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
+This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
+along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranoa. The
+water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line along
+the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
+country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranoa, a supply
+would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
+(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
+straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27 deg. 31' 37" S., we
+again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 79 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;
+--with wet bulb, 61 deg.. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet.
+
+3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as I had
+determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
+Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles
+above that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through
+much open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris
+always appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length,
+plains again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them,
+after travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line,
+running north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on
+towards the main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from
+it, so that we were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a
+half, after a journey, with carts, of 261/2 miles. Here occurred the only
+Epiphyte observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts
+of trees in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of
+Brown. One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long.
+The fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than
+usual, at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an
+inconspicuous weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA
+TRICHOSTACHYA was there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a
+woolly. ANDROPOGON, which appeared not to be distinct from the A.
+BOMBYCINUS. In the open forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA
+OCCIDENTALIS, and on the plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new
+CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and a creeping plant, with yellow flowers,
+since found to be a new species of GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+51 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P.M., 86 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.;--with wet bulb, 54 deg.. Height
+above the sea, 819 feet.
+
+[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
+dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
+corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a
+distinct genus.]
+
+[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
+longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
+axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido,
+laciniis lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava,
+labio superiore fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio
+ciliato; flagellis folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula
+prismatica, biloculari; seminibus marginatis compressis; flagellis
+floriferis; floribus in axilla folii ovatorotundati, auriculati,
+subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10
+cent. longa, 11/2-2 cent. lata, apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum
+attenuata, subdecurrentia, utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia
+flagellorum bracteiformia, ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere
+auriculata, alterutra auricula multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum
+illarum axillis, reliquis multo minoribus neque ad normam perfectis,
+brevius pedunculatis. Affinis species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.]
+
+4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the satisfaction
+soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the majestic Balonne.
+This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames at Richmond; its
+banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and the merry notes of
+numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering appearance;
+especially to us who were again upon a route connected with home, and at
+a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen that route.
+We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey, of the lower
+Maranoa, a river which had brought us in a very straight direction back
+to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established a well
+watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in the
+more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark is
+intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranoa x. being
+marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
+cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
+felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled
+districts, and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during
+seven months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
+cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied
+it so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
+sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when I
+set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof, fly-
+proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of it,
+"LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--wet bulb, 59 deg.. Height above the sea, 738 feet.
+
+5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards Camp
+VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depot had been stationed;
+the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were visible along
+our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far these
+parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
+advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this
+day, we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
+a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
+running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
+until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
+tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
+accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
+then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
+think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
+of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
+both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
+articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
+their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the
+exploring party; and of the very favourable impression we had made
+formerly on the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of
+this river. In the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the
+ripe fruit of the "Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in
+flower that we thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at
+noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE MAPS.--
+EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS--AFTER
+SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM SENT WITH
+DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY CROSSES THE
+BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR RIVER.--
+TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET WITH.--CATTLE
+STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST
+SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF SAND.--AFTER
+SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE BARWAN.--A
+FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES NUMEROUS AFTER
+THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH
+THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--
+RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--
+A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE
+HOMEWARDS.
+
+5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of angles
+taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to the
+Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, followed by
+Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country in the direction
+of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of 1831; that was on
+the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29 deg. 2' S., and bearing about 20 deg. E. of
+S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" ponds, were said
+to water the intervening country, and I wished to ascertain whether they
+were favourable for the connection of our recently explored route, with
+the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, when my journey,
+undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, was accidentally
+frustrated.
+
+Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with the
+despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of the
+Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish maps
+and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from excessive heat,
+under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of the river were
+gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; FUSANUS
+ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which Yuranigh brought
+us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON MACULOSUM, was also
+in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous plant, has been determined
+by Professor De Vriese to be identical with the Swan River GOODENIA
+PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the cattle, proved to be a
+variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in February on the
+Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be the same as the
+G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R. Br., was covered
+with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy open parts of the
+forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high, with the foliage
+of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with short racemes of
+white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural order of Bixads,
+and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*] A submerged
+plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of MYRIOPHYLLUM, with
+tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub, was in
+flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit. A new
+ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a forest tree
+twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[****] A fir-leaved
+CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to five
+feet high.[*****] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the river-
+bank[******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[*******], completed the
+list of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's
+Bridge.
+
+[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+supra griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo
+longioribus, floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog.
+imbricata. ST. 5 in margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc.
+plac. 3-par. STYLUS simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus,
+verisim. carnosus.]
+
+[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
+emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
+fructibus tuberculatis.]
+
+[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque
+minute puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis
+glabris, glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-
+floris folio multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets
+are fewer and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are
+wanting.--G. B. M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste
+lanceolatis planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
+linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate
+between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
+
+[**** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
+integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
+
+[***** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
+lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
+brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
+contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
+leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
+yet ripe.]
+
+[****** M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra,
+ramis strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis,
+pedicellis plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a
+very distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836,
+but my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
+branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
+are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of M. GLABRA.
+G.B.]
+
+[******* I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis
+canescens, foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis
+mucronatis v. emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis
+folia vix superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus
+brevissimis obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--
+It has much the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not
+quite so small, and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
+
+15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than was
+expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
+Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
+horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
+project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
+settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
+north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
+within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however,
+cost the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
+direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
+magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden almost
+parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
+finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
+were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
+had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
+the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these gentlemen
+Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the new
+Governor.
+
+17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St. George's
+Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small advanced party on
+the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28 deg. 17' 51" S. The channel was full
+of water, and thus we completed the last link wanted to form a chain of
+communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the furthest limits we had explored.
+The ground was imprinted with the hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as
+if at home. The day was one of extreme heat without any wind; the
+thermometer stood at 104 deg. in the shade. Yet the horses drew the carts
+easily twenty-four miles and a quarter. We had passed over a country
+covered with excellent grass, consisting chiefly of plains and open
+forest, with scrubs of ACACIA PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs
+we found a new species of CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and
+in the open forest ACACIA NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS
+STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus related to SERICEUS; a new yellow
+CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species of STENOCHILUS, with willowy
+leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62 deg.;
+at noon, 103 deg.; at 4 P.M., 104 deg.; at 9, 81 deg.;--with wet bulb, 67 deg.. Height
+above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
+
+[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis
+setaceis, foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra
+glabris subtus ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis
+oppositifoliis elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro
+brevi recto, ovulis numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--
+Very near to C. SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is
+more rigid, the leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and
+the pod (which is only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short
+stalk.]
+
+[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
+longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
+acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima
+dilatata subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--
+Leaves three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and
+clammy. Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of
+the corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This
+difference in the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing
+it into a distinct genus instead of a mere section, especially as that
+peculiarity which gave the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it
+not that the forms of the corolla are so different in different other
+species, that they will not furnish generic characters where the habit is
+similar.--G. B.]
+
+18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been above one
+mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of some
+decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot. The
+season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that between
+the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for visiting the
+tropical regions of Australia.
+
+Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
+species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
+less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
+MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
+of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in
+rich soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
+forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
+CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
+LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+58 deg.; at noon, 102 deg.; at 4 P.M., 103 deg.; at 9, 76 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+rigidis mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi
+in petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
+pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
+
+[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
+foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis,
+pedunculis folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis
+campanulati dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine
+puberulo.]
+
+19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
+cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and the
+channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
+of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
+and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when our
+young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my attention
+to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white woman going
+with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he could ever
+have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was amusing, as he
+pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as something curious in
+natural history, to which my attention, as he thought, would be rivetted:
+but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome one to all the party. Soon two
+comfortable stations, one on each side of the river, appeared before us;
+and the neatly dressed mother of two chubby white children stood at the
+door of one of them. I had a memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the
+other, to thank the owner for lending him a horse; and there I first
+entered again under a roof, and a most agreeable cover it did seem to me
+after living nearly a year under canvass, in houseless wilds. These were
+cattle stations, and both appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose,
+and upon a scale more substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto
+seen in squatting districts. The placing of two such stations thus near
+each other, is a good arrangement, not only affording better security
+against the depredations of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of
+solitude and loneliness such places in general present; and in the outset
+of such a life, implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of
+social union, on the solid basis of mutual protection.
+
+I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
+obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
+near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104 deg. in
+the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58 deg.; at noon, 102 deg.; at 4 P.M., 104 deg.;
+at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 63 deg.. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28 deg. 30' 51" S.
+
+20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably open
+forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr. Kennedy's
+track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided back by an
+experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and fell into a
+cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where we fell
+into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree at
+this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this camp,
+the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong leaves,
+and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and belongs
+to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
+HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
+BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
+cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
+beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
+flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
+a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
+not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
+carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
+"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
+Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens,
+foliis cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis
+dentatoserratis, stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus
+solitariis unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido
+laciniis acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.]
+
+[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis
+longe acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis
+lateralibus a margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris),
+umbellis pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
+attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
+
+Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and the
+sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it on
+this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any reason
+to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the beginning of
+April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and inundate the
+country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so was the rain.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 62 deg.; at 4 P.M., 57 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain had
+set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy day
+rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing maps
+in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
+recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
+a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
+prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
+change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
+so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that
+I endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For
+that reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous
+route of Fort Bourke.
+
+21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in Poussin's
+picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole year with
+scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so long been
+due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had fallen a
+year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much indeed; whereas
+it was now very likely to retard the return of the party. This was the
+only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded our progress;
+the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and we had still
+to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen the marks of
+floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining on my mind,
+that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out of these
+flats as soon as possible.
+
+On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
+waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
+until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
+drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
+lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
+down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations on
+the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water might
+reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a sand-
+hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected in
+good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and that
+we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by which
+the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground almost
+surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would, probably, render
+our passage out of that position difficult, even after the waters had
+subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam across this
+hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent the
+inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than sand to
+oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded in
+arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
+four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
+it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
+the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained
+above water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641
+feet, or about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to
+rise until the 2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day
+they began slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded
+from the dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began
+to present clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather
+was slow, and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their
+blossoms as soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS
+PILOSUS Benth.; a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again
+seen here; CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches,
+and very sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the
+appearance of a sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only
+on the 7th that a crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm
+for the cattle to travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity
+of quitting that camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us
+seventeen days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged
+us to tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this
+day passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until
+we arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I
+had been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
+the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
+however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
+direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
+That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
+growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A heavy
+thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I was
+under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
+journey.
+
+8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 69 deg.. Height above the sea, 782
+feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
+direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible general
+line of communication between Sydney and the Maranoa. It seemed desirable
+that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my journey of 1831),
+some miles above the point where I had formerly reached that river; and
+thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy, falling into my old track
+about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of Mount Riddell. With this
+view, our latitude being 28 deg. 57' 20" S., longitude 149 deg. 11' E., I chose
+the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 231/2 deg. E. of S.), for my homeward
+guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a good firm surface, for
+sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at the bank of the
+Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through some open scrub, chiefly
+of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small grassy plains; saw one or
+two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris. An improvement was
+visible in the quality of the grass, when we came within the distance of
+about two miles from the river; and open forests or plains of richer
+soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the presence of
+the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we saw no cart
+tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle, apparently
+pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There was still a
+considerable flood in the river, although the water had been recently
+much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks. Latitude, 28 deg.
+37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
+
+9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making preparations
+for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together, and on
+reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable place
+for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected without
+accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river at the
+same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the river than
+that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the number 87, cut
+on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want of such a mark,
+could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it should have been
+found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our stores and equipment
+were carried across in the boats. These looked well in the water; their
+trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret that I had not
+reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its channel had
+been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never were
+constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were creditable to
+the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole party was
+comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the Barwan, just
+before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had fallen several
+feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 82 deg..
+
+10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M. thermometer 68 deg.. The mosquitoes were most
+tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my tent, who
+remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em, the more they
+brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the fancy," of
+which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses, although
+tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus. Some had
+broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained by Yuranigh,
+that four other strange horses were with ours, having come amongst them
+and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh- bouring
+station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the horses
+at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone forward with
+the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus upon the
+"Maael," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of water,
+with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
+employ the boats. This channel was distant 51/2 miles from where we had
+crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the yokes,
+drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very well; "RARI
+NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats, and the
+horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an early hour
+on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be marked 88, in
+figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29 deg. 1' 20" S. This seemed to
+be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February, 1832, at a similar
+distance from the main river.
+
+11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 70 deg.. We continued to travel
+homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a direct
+line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The plains
+were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new CANTHIUM, was
+in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which Sir William
+Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely differing
+from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the calyx
+(not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
+blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a
+short beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
+THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS plant,
+quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous pinnatifid
+leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with stout
+needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met with no
+impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although without reaching
+water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect to meet with any
+watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir; which latter river I
+wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to meet with roads and
+inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become rare in this
+intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state, and most
+exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed through
+several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature for the
+distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here, each
+seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble in
+water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
+broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to
+trees or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the
+plains, the blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the
+eye: the rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines,
+a genus referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a
+new POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****]
+Height above the sea, 554 feet.
+
+[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
+racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a
+SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
+species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
+structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
+slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
+
+[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis
+basi in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus
+didymis.]
+
+[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
+subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis
+strictis longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique
+ovatis lignosis glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
+
+[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
+linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
+brevioribus.]
+
+12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 67 deg.. Passing over a similar sort
+of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first leaving the
+camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where the ground
+seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous, and cow-dung
+abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its smoke being a
+valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a little of it was
+burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious plains than any we
+had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised, with great pleasure
+and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell, distant 61 miles. This
+seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen laborious years, that had
+intervened since I had given a name to that summit. It now proved the
+accuracy of my recent survey, appearing exactly in the direction, where,
+according to my maps, I pointed my glass to look for it. Like the face of
+an old friend, which, as the Persian proverb says, "brighteneth the
+eyes," so this required clear eyes to be seen at all; even Yuranigh,
+could not at first be persuaded that it was not a cloud. This fine peak
+must always be a good landmark on these vast plains, and may yet brighten
+the eye of the traveller from India, when emerging from the level regions
+upon the Barwan. We next perceived at a distance, a cloud of dust raised
+by a numerous herd of cattle, and came upon a water-course, or branch of
+the Gwydir, called, I believe, the "Meei." As I wanted to cross the
+Gwydir, I crossed this and continued; met with another deep ditch or
+channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and, at three miles beyond that,
+another: none of these resembling the Gwydir I had formerly seen. I had
+ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to meet the carts, and
+encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of these two water-courses.
+The heavy drays were, of course, far behind. Latitude, 29 deg. 34' 41" S.
+Height above the sea, 553 feet.
+
+13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 A.M., 70 deg.. The drays joined us early,
+having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being Sunday, rest
+for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary. I found we
+were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we were from the
+camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in with some road,
+when we reached the country to which I had formerly led the way. At
+sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the barometer had fallen 21/2
+millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight shower followed, after which
+the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must have caused much difficulty
+and delay to the party, as we were upon low levels subject to inundation.
+Height above the sea, 499 feet. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 88 deg..
+
+14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 76 deg.. During the night, and at
+day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
+appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 A.M. the sun shone on
+the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a channel
+of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and still I
+doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the Gwydir,
+having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I had
+however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
+and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
+plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
+extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
+these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named,
+in former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
+having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to
+meet at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the
+year 1831. Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7
+P.M., 87 deg.. The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints
+but few traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly,
+but nothing else. No track remained along the line which I had so many
+years before laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look
+out for a stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my
+tent, but not without some apprehension that the people he had come
+amongst so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-
+Saxon race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian
+stockman. His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat
+about the ears of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his
+hand explained what he was about,--"in search of some stray cattle." He
+had evidently never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor
+of such a name as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow
+hill," according to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney
+he seemed to require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come
+from the station of Mr.----, where he was employed as stockman. Came out
+from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his
+brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest
+of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no
+further.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and, in
+looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The lagoon
+was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank; but
+having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the master and
+some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were hospitably
+received. It was then about 2 P.M., and tea mixed with milk was set
+before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled eggs.
+Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
+sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
+much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
+eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
+Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded along
+a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led horse. Before
+we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt, night overtook
+us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness. The cart-track
+was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way without it, we were
+obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the shelter of even a tree,
+until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not above two miles off,
+but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the inmates, and asking
+them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his head, and said he had
+no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away from these "abodes of
+civilized men," to look for my old track, which had been traced along the
+base of the Nundawar Range, where the bold outlines of Mounts Lindesay
+and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the past, amongst clouds lighted
+by beams from the rising sun. After having been long in unknown regions,
+time and distance seem of little consequence when we return to those
+previously known; and thus the whole day soon passed in looking for my
+former track. But I sought it in vain; and was glad at night to turn
+towards the banks of the Nammoy, in search of a cattle-station. Since I
+had first explored that country to which my wheel-tracks marked and led
+the way, station after station had been taken up by squatters, not by
+following any line of route, but rather according to the course of the
+river, for the sake of water; and in such cases, the beaten track from
+station to station, no matter how crooked, becomes the road. Thus it is,
+in the fortuitous occupation of Australia, that order and arrangement may
+precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS come again." I arrived about
+sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the Nammoy, where I was
+hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it, who rode eight miles in
+twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and sugar for me, and who lived
+on very friendly terms with some old natives who remembered me, and my
+first advance into that country.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M., Thermometer 75 deg.. Height above the sea 750
+feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
+many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
+endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
+wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
+seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with my
+entire horse.
+
+The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of the
+richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
+river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
+eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
+amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
+mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
+station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
+reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
+comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
+taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
+permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
+welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
+with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
+numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
+tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
+sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
+she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
+the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me some
+days after.[**]
+
+[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
+
+[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
+medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
+trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
+served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
+surveyor.]
+
+
+
+Chapter X.
+
+MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.--PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE
+CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.--APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON
+HORSEBACK.--MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.--Of
+the aborigines.--CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.--IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR
+CIVILIZATION.--Of the Convicts.--THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.--CHARACTER OF
+THOSE OF THE PARTY.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.--THE UNFORTUNATE AND
+THE DEPRAVED.--Of the present Colony of New South Wales.--NATURAL STATE.
+--CAPABILITIES.--ITS TEMPORARY USES.--ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.--RETENTION
+OF WATER.--NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.--GROWTH OF COTTON AND
+SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.--THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.--WHEAT CROPS.--
+DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.--ROADS.--PROJECTED RAILWAYS.--
+Conclusion.--ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.--ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS.--ULTIMATE
+TENDENCY.--MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.--CO-OPERATION OF
+THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.--FINAL REPORT.--GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.--
+THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE TERRITORY.--PORT BOWEN--CAPRICORNIA.--GULF
+OF CARPENTARIA--AUSTRALINDIA.
+
+The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass Lagoon
+arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January, and the
+new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities to the
+most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent the names to
+England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought deserving of Her
+Majesty's gracious pardon.
+
+The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr.
+Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive
+(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light
+party on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and
+obtained His Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the
+river, and to apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the
+equipment of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle
+of March, with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare
+horses, with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen
+months. The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy
+was required to do.
+
+* * *
+
+Surveyor-General's Office, Sydney, 22d February, 1847.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my proposal
+for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small party to
+be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose to you a
+copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the late
+expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you
+will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions
+for your especial guidance may permit.
+
+"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains
+so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you
+leave the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the
+Balonne at St. George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and
+thence by the route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you
+will proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying
+tracing of my survey.
+
+"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my return
+route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far in
+looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the
+map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond
+Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on
+your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my
+old advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps
+(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warrego in the
+direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is
+very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can
+scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed
+as closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warrego may be
+looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th
+June.
+
+"You will next pursue the course of the Warrego upwards towards Mount
+Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide you to.
+You will follow up the Cunno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on your right
+or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my horse-
+track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish you
+would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track from
+the head of Cunno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively open, in
+the direction of my bivouac of 11th September.
+
+"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low,
+but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass your
+carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from
+which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but
+more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will
+have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher
+part, but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered
+valley, which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus
+far, you can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map,
+and following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he
+will no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It
+is very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the
+Victoria in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in
+which, should your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party
+is to be provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to
+your aid or assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall
+have reached the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in
+finding Camp (72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to
+follow down the watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the
+Victoria, and, as you have been instructed to take an expert native with
+you, you ought to find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting
+off large bends of the river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st
+October, you must keep by the river along my route back, and not follow
+the circuitous track which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After
+about four miles by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return
+track again crossed the outward track over the downs, so that you may
+fall into the route westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria.
+I fear you must depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings,
+for ascertaining the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th
+September. You will see by the map how generally straight my journeys
+were between these points, and how important it would be for you to know
+the situation of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out
+westward in the direction of my return route, instead of following the
+main channel throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the
+northward. Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever
+that may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map
+with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and
+determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and
+consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the same
+means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your guidance, I
+shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the relative
+distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore feet,
+either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average,
+about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing,
+you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon becomes a
+habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry about
+thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas would
+do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces, remove
+one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of bearing,
+you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of hundreds,
+ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each change of
+bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket for your
+watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this important
+purpose.
+
+"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of
+equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and
+allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You
+may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so
+obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will,
+after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure,
+adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different
+latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find
+the results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the
+variation of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or
+west, and when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with
+the rate of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude.
+You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that
+may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be
+ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of
+reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of
+the flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in
+a small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the
+determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a
+convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the
+accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view,
+without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally spread
+into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as a
+general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any
+scarcity of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more
+speedily accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you
+would cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the
+west. On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have
+particularly to caution you against remaining longer than may be
+unavoidable there, or, indeed, in any one place, in any part of your
+route, where natives may be numerous.
+
+"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it
+will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off
+angles, by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and
+when so returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the
+route and the country may be better described by you, and recognised
+afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on
+trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence
+them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus
+avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the
+Victoria.
+
+"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in
+charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your
+journey.
+
+"I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant,
+
+"T. L. MITCHELL, SURVEYOR-GENERAL.
+
+"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P. Assistant Surveyor, Sydney."
+
+OF THE ABORIGINES.
+
+There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less
+understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal
+natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity,
+yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and judgment
+to the white men composing my party. Their means of subsistence and their
+habits, are both extremely simple; but they are adjusted with admirable
+fitness to the few resources afforded by such a country, in its wild
+state. What these resources are, and how they are economised by the
+natives, can only be learnt by an extensive acquaintance with the
+interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts, bearing on this
+subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest. Fire, grass, kangaroos,
+and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on each other for existence in
+Australia; for any one of these being wanting, the others could no longer
+continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass, and form those open
+forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo; the native applies
+that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a young green
+crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable him to kill or
+take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of long grass also
+discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females and children,
+who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple process, the
+Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle as those of New
+Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which the white men
+now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the kangaroo, which
+is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony where cattle run.
+The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to produce the
+extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of existence; and
+this must work such extensive changes in Australia as never entered into
+the contemplation of the local authorities. The squatters, it is true,
+have also been obliged to burn the old grass occasionally on their runs;
+but so little has this been understood by the Imperial Government that an
+order against the burning of the grass was once sent out, on the
+representations of a traveller in the south. The omission of the annual
+periodical burning by natives, of the grass and young saplings, has
+already produced in the open forest lands nearest to Sydney, thick
+forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might gallop without
+impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos are no longer to be
+seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither are there natives
+to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there amongst the fences
+of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the white race seems
+thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation of the
+aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any adverse
+feelings these may show towards the white men, that these consequences,
+although so little considered by the intruders, must be obvious to the
+natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter on their
+territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of the
+natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of
+aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors
+of aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race
+has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency
+still more destructive.
+
+It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to
+be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel
+disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle
+or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos
+from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers;
+but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly
+because much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or
+cattle. No orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of
+these atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal
+obedience to injunctions from home, and the policy of the local
+authorities has not been influenced by less humane motives.
+
+It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for
+one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor,
+and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of
+Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth
+Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and
+resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary
+to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback.
+Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of all
+the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and quick
+ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though
+uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards
+the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the
+willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself
+before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean
+in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair,
+always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent appearance.
+He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on returning to
+Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never before seen houses,
+and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the theatre, and whatever
+else was likely to gratify his curiosity. The boy was all questions and
+observation. I was at a loss how to make these natives comfortable; or
+suitably reward their services. The new Governor kindly granted the small
+gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and Dicky became a favourite in my family.
+Both these natives loathed the idea of returning to the woods, as
+savages; and, as if captivated with the scenes of activity around them,
+both expressed a desire "to work and live like white men." This shows
+that, when treated on a footing of equality, as these had been in my
+party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to take part in the labours
+of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old freedom of the bush
+seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts them back to it.
+Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular agreement,) as
+stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and he took an
+affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in the country,
+with the intention of having him educated there with my children,
+provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I left the
+colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate an
+aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children
+should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon
+which the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly
+tried.
+
+This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much
+interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the
+married couple to another country, where the children might be educated,
+and kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of
+sending such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of
+Europe, where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the
+grape, fig, and olive, as well as the management of other productions of
+similar latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with
+their family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different
+language from those about them, they would be less open to the influences
+that interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony;
+while the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it.
+Were this experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition
+afforded by industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation,
+and inspire them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the
+white men, which, without having some such examples set before them, must
+seem to them unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a
+degraded position in the presence of the white population: a mere
+outcast, obliged to beg a little bread. In his native woods, the "noble
+savage" knows no such degrading necessity.--All there participate in, and
+have a share of, Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open
+to all. Experience here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of
+other countries has shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as
+free as Nature first made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and
+come under all the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from
+choice, unless they can do so on terms of the most perfect equality.
+Surely it behoves the nation so active in the suppression of slavery to
+consider betimes, in taking up new countries, how the aboriginal races
+can be preserved; and how the evil effects of spirituous liquors, of
+gunpowder, and of diseases more inimical to them than even slavery, may
+be counteracted.
+
+OF THE CONVICTS.
+
+The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring
+parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were
+chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had acquired
+good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on this last
+occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part chosen from
+amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst and most
+irreclaimable of their class.
+
+The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to
+follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous
+surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as
+labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to
+lay the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great
+advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on
+the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of war-
+steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and private
+enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so essential to
+an important harbour, had not the Government always possessed the means
+of cheaply constructing such a work by convict labour, and been thus able
+at any time to have entered into such competition as might have been very
+injurious to a private speculator. At Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths,
+shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work in their various avocations; all
+the shoes, for both the men and horses of the expedition, were made
+there; also one half of the carts, which proved equally good as the other
+portion, although that was made by the best maker in the colony, a
+celebrated man.
+
+The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on Cockatoo
+Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such that even the
+most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts, and seemed to
+wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the superintendent.
+The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of good behaviour in
+the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul amongst these
+prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims and pretensions,
+which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly investigated by
+Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the visiting
+magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at length
+made, after careful examination of the phrenological developments and
+police history of each; and it was not easy to find one without a
+catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office annals.
+Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by physical
+developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party from
+amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful Irishmen,
+on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old followers on
+former journeys, who had become free.
+
+This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to
+behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be supposed
+to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the convict
+character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have been made
+to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year, away from
+all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was chiefly because
+these men were placed in a position where it was so very clearly for
+their own interest to conduct themselves properly. Accordingly, the
+greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the highest
+satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring hardships,
+and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to do anything
+to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still there were
+a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party, animated by
+such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true character, nor even
+disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the achievement of their
+liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as the "flash mob." They
+spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever intent on robbing the
+stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS). They held it to be wrong
+to exert themselves at any work, if it could be avoided; and would not be
+seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation. They kept themselves
+out of sight as much as possible; neglected their arms; shot away their
+ammunition contrary to orders; and ate in secret, whatever they did kill,
+or whatever fish they caught.
+
+Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two promising
+men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of them was
+finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious that the
+men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs even, express
+sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and still
+susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they cannot
+afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence against
+the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys, with
+whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or
+HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever
+"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed and
+more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be so
+arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in
+their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the
+stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded by
+savage tribes in the interior.
+
+Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a wide
+difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen flour,
+refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my younger
+days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life." Convicts,
+in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one,
+fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was
+the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose
+principle of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose
+reformation, there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class,
+repented of their crime from the moment of conviction; those of the
+other, know no such word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing
+of hope and change;" and would eagerly avail himself of every means
+afforded him to regain the position he had lost; the other, true to his
+"order," will "die game." For the separation of the wheat from the chaff,
+a process by no means difficult, the colony of New South Wales was
+formerly well adapted. The ticket of leave granted to the deserving
+convict was one of the most perfect of reformatory indulgences; each
+individual being known to the authorities, and liable, on the least
+misconduct, to be sent to work on the public roads. The colony of New
+South Wales has been the means of restoring many of our unfortunate
+countrymen to positions in which they have shown that loyalty, industry,
+public spirit, and patriotism, are not always to be extinguished in the
+breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters and degradation. It is to be
+regretted that a more vigilant discrimination had not interposed a more
+marked line between those convicts deserving emancipation, and those
+whose services are still wanted on the roads and bridges of the colony.
+
+OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
+
+There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to render
+it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South Wales or
+Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or, at least,
+such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters' condition
+is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country without
+navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to uncertain
+seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social intercourse,
+and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man. With equal
+truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth susceptible
+of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity of man. If
+there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome savannas; if there
+are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of forming reservoirs
+of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain may fall, it is
+certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of man alone is
+wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such a clime,
+and under such a sun, that most important of elements in cultivation,
+water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to man's use than it
+is in other warm regions, where, if the general vegetation be more
+luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water for all purposes
+of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the command of art and
+industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the peculiar
+disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as would
+greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of human
+industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water would be
+found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and adjusted, by
+such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but the natural
+product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural resources
+exist, but require art and industry for their development, the field is
+open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable investment
+of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New South Wales.
+
+But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too
+much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet
+adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying
+and adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which
+deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been
+corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the
+natural fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in
+favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable,
+perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for
+that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the
+structure of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a
+small number of these might be made to retain as much of the surface
+water as might even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because
+the channels of rivers are in general confined by high banks, within
+which many, or indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into
+canals. To such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied,
+had it been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to
+work together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere
+facilities for constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill,
+and thus afford means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not
+labour now too scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in
+a manner suitable to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation.
+
+The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which
+supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well
+adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour,
+nothing could prevent these regions from being made extensively
+productive of both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to
+be ascertained whether some parts of the country may not be made as
+productive as Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of
+latitude, in the opposite hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the
+development of every branch of production derivable from industry in
+these regions.
+
+[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the
+Society of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever
+produced, I believe, in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid,
+superintendent of the Botanic garden at Sydney, from olives grown there,
+and seemed very clear and good.]
+
+Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and
+upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior quality;
+and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these districts and
+the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict labour, the
+progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and climate, and,
+as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had been much more
+advanced than it is there.
+
+The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be opened,
+have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is, therefore,
+the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible introduction
+of railways with much interest. In a country like that around Sydney,
+where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by roads in
+order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the value and
+importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and calculations have
+been made to show that a railway between Sydney and the southern
+districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along that line.
+The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open undulating
+country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly growing into
+importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway, between that
+town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive tracts of
+valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a sort of
+centre.
+
+On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best
+lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has,
+of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the
+rural districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals
+who had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the
+assistance of settlers in the country.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years ago,
+a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The location of
+settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms, then much in
+arrear, and the division of the territory into counties, hundreds, and
+parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to settlers, altogether
+rendered necessary a general survey of the colony, which work I commenced
+in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal Instructions, sent to the
+colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827 and 1837 was the most
+prosperous in the history of the colony of New South Wales, when convicts
+made good roads, farms were measured up, and the country was surveyed and
+divided into countries. Colonization extended rapidly to the shores of
+the southern ocean, and Australia Felix was made known to the British
+public.
+
+The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the
+direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent,
+however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate
+tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole intervening
+country. My plans of exploration have been governed by these views and
+objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was intended to complete
+the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One led across the Blue
+mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far as the land seemed
+worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia Felix and the southern
+coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to the northern shores
+at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria,--from which I
+trust that by this time my assistant Mr. Kennedy will have returned to
+Sydney.
+
+Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a duty[*],
+I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan which
+must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled me to
+bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years, and in
+the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at the
+command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British
+Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the
+benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that
+this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the
+petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly
+at the expense of the colony of New South Wales.
+
+[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.]
+
+It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words, to
+point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be available
+for the economical extension of that colonisation which the expansive
+energies of this great nation seem to require. New South Wales may be
+benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional market on
+the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was
+necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most
+eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast. It is now
+ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements from the
+open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25 deg.
+south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table
+Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;--a country but
+lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy access
+to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the intervention
+of any such formidable barrier between that interior open country and the
+coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony. Precisely on that
+part of the coast, to which the united channels of the water lead, a
+harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent naval officers.
+These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to define one
+situation more favourable than any other that might be found along that
+coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide almost equally
+the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I allude to Port
+Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has been (I believe)
+called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of the coast, at
+the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to steam navigation.
+The occupation of the fine country on the rivers Victoria, Salvator and
+Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for supplies; and on the
+occupation of that back-country must again, in a great measure, depend
+the establishment of a direct line of communication between Sydney and
+the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of
+route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon
+require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a
+commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which might, by
+degrees, become an important town; where horses might be shipped and
+conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards of Torres
+Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible description by
+Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's Island, being both
+higher than the main land, might be connected with it, by some permanent
+work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and shelter and anchorage
+for other ships. According to the interesting narrative of Captain
+Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and convict labour might there
+be very usefully employed upon such works. The head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian Ocean nearest to Sydney, has
+appeared of more importance to the colonists, since steam navigation
+became regular between England and the Indian archipelago. Then it became
+more desirable for the colonists to know the nature of the interior
+country between their capital and that northern coast. The interior has
+been found very open and accessible; the fine country at the head of the
+Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus divide the whole distance into
+two equal parts, each of these not much exceeding the distance between
+Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia Felix; between which places mail-
+carriages now run twice a week. Thus, while, by the extension of
+geographical research, the proper fields for colonization are laid open
+for selection, and prepared for timely arrangements on the part of the
+Imperial Government; the colonists of New South Wales have promoted the
+general interests of their fellow subjects at home, by the developement
+of the resources of the territory around them.
+
+He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed the
+earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two
+elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the
+East Coast range--the one affording the nearest access to an important
+sea, the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with
+deference to Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through
+the Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive
+names on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the
+country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25 deg. South, where nature
+has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia, the
+country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian
+archipelago; which two regions may be made conterminous according to
+natural limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales. No.
+30/1252. Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.
+
+Sir,
+
+I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to
+inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been
+pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the
+office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of
+the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their
+duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who,
+with the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all
+arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant,
+
+ALEX. M'LEAY.
+
+To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire, Surveyor-General.
+
+* * * * *
+
+A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING
+JOURNEY.
+
+THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW.
+
+[numerals refer to page numbers in the book]
+
+FERNS.
+
+Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212. ----assimile, 204. 212. Nothochlaena
+distans, 212. Grammitis rutaefolia, 212. Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212.
+Doodia caudata, 212. Platyzoma microphyllum, 236.
+
+GRASSES.
+
+Aristida calycina, 33. Arundo Phragmites, 124. * Anthistiria membranacea,
+LINDL. 88. ----australis PASSIM. ----sp. 97. Andropogon sericeus, 62.
+----bombycinus, 378. ----sp. 117. Bromus australis, 61. * Chloris
+selerantha, LINDL. 31. ----acicularis LINDL. 33. Dactyloctenium radulans,
+88. Danthonia pectinata, 319. ----* triticoides LINDL. 365. Erianthus,
+fulvo aff. 62. Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349. Lappago biflora, 364.
+Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33. Perotis rara, 139. Panicum laevinode 60. AND
+PASSIM. Pappophorum gracile, 319. ----* avenaceum LINDL. 320. ----*
+virens, LINDL. 360. ----* flavescens, LINDL. 34. * Stipa scabra, LINDL.
+31. * Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187. Triodia pungens, 177. 340.
+Triraphis mollis, 88.
+
+SEDGES.
+
+Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124. ----sp. 120. Kyllinga monocephala, 100.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS.
+
+Damasonium ovalifolium, 31. Xerotes laxa, 361. ----leucocephala, 198.
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378. * Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3
+Commelina undulata, 347. Thysanotus elatior, 347. Tricoryne elatior, 387.
+Laxmannia gracilis, 365. Dianella rara, 366. ----strumosa, 341.
+
+GYMNOGENS. Zamia, 209. Callitris sp. n. 187. ----glauca, 298. ----
+pyramidalis, 93.
+
+SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE).
+
+* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371. ----* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124.
+Beyeria, sp. n. 390. Bertya oleaefolia, 290. Euphorbia hypericifolia?
+265. ----* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348. Hylococcus sericeus, 389. *
+Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342. Phyllanthus simplex? 106.
+
+CUCURBITS.
+
+Cucumis pubescens, 110.
+
+BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE).
+
+* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383.
+
+FRANKENIADS.
+
+* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305. ----* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305.
+
+CAPPARIDS.
+
+* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257. ----* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220. ----
+lasiantha, 102. ----Mitchellii, 36. Cleome flava, 127.
+
+STERCULIADS.
+
+Brachychiton populneum, 355. * Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155.
+
+BYTTNEBIADS.
+
+* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+MALLOWWORTS.
+
+Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260. ----* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363. Fugosia digitata?
+387. ----sp. 64. Malva ovata, 397. * Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368. ----
+pisiformis, 362. ----* virgata, HOOKER, 361. ----filiformis, A. CUNN.
+361. ----tubulosa, CUNN. 390. ----sp. n. 103.
+
+LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE).
+
+Grewia Richardiana, 383.
+
+MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE).
+
+* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342.
+
+SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE).
+
+Thouinia australis, 390. * Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273. ----* filifolia,
+HOOKER, 241. ----* hirtella, 191. ----* mollis, LINDL. 212. ----*
+peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361. ----* pubescens, LINDL. 342. ----*
+tenuifolia, LINDL. 248. ----* trigona, LINDL. 236. ----* triangularis,
+219. ----* vestita, HOOKER, 265.
+
+DILLENIADS.
+
+Pleurandra ericifolia, 362. ----* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363. Hibbertia
+canescens, 339.
+
+CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE).
+
+Clematis stenophylla, 368. Ranunculus plebeius, 362. ----sessiliflorus,
+361.
+
+PITTOSPORADS.
+
+* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224. * Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97. ----
+lanceolatum, 272.
+
+EPACRIDS.
+
+Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226.
+
+CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE).
+
+* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353.
+
+RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE).
+
+* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225. ----* eriantha, LINDL. 298. * Eriostemon
+rhombeum, LINDL. 293. * Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102. ----* latifolia,
+LINDL. 236. ----* pendula, LINDL. 251. Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398. *
+Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347. * Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199. *
+Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339.
+
+CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE).
+
+Geranium parviflorum? 362. Erodium littoreum? 360.
+
+PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE).
+
+* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148. ----* pusilla, LINDL. 360.
+
+BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE).
+
+Polygonum acre, 149. ----junceum, 85.
+
+NYCTAGOS.
+
+Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362.
+
+AMARANTHS.
+
+Amaranthus undulatus, 102. Alternanthera nodiflora, 35. ----sp. 341.
+Nyssanthes? 360. * Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45. ----Janatum, 33.
+88. ----* conicum, LINDL. 363. ----fusiforme, 383. ----alopecuroideum,
+88. 91.
+
+CHENOPODS.
+
+Ambrina carinata, 127. * Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64. ----
+elaeagnoides, 29 Atriplex semibaccata, 23. * Chenopodium auricomum,
+LINDL. 94. Enchylaena tomentosa, 102. Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67. ----*
+thymifolia, LINDL. 56. ----* lanosa, LINDL. 88. ----* villosa, LINDL. 91.
+Rhagodia parabolica, 53. Salsola australis, 24, etc. Seleroaena uniflora,
+72. * Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239.
+
+FICOIDS.
+
+Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315.
+
+DAPHNADS.
+
+Pimelea linifolia? 340. ----* trichostachya, LINDL. 355. ----colorans,
+362. Exocarpus aphylla, 118. ----spartea, 135.
+
+PROTEADS.
+
+* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342. * Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER,
+265. ----* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341. ----floribunda, 212. ----*
+longistyla, HOOKER, 343. ----sp. 276. * Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397.
+----* purpurea, HOOKER, 348.
+
+DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE).
+
+Cassytha pubescens, 362.
+
+LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.
+
+Acacia conferta, 174. 289. ----Cunninghamii, 204. ----doratoxylon, 289.
+----delibrata, 258. ----decora, 359. var. 223. ----* excelsa, BENTH. 225.
+----Farnesiana, 256. ----falcata, 221. Acacia holosericea, 256. ----
+Simsii, 256. ----leucadendron, 258. ----* longespicata, BENTH. 298. ----
+ixiophylla, 204. ----leptoclada, var. 95. ----* macradenia, BENTH. 360.
+----neriifolia, 386. ----pendula, PASSIM. ----pennifolia, 361. ----
+podalyriifolia, 221. ----* pinifolia, BENTH. 342. ----stenophylla, 81.
+----spectabilis, 353. ----salicina, 56. ----triptera, 291. ----* varians,
+BENTH. 132. ----* Victoriae, BENTH. 333. ----* uncifera, BENTH. 341. ----
+viscidula, 340. * Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236. * Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH.
+290. ----rhombifolia, 294. * Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384. ----*
+coronilloides, CUNN. 384. ----* zygophylla, BENTH. 288. ----sophera, 390.
+----occidentalis, 378. ----heteroloba, 251. * Crotalaria dissitiflora,
+BENTH. 386. ----* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120. * Cyclogyne swainsonioides,
+BENTH. 397. * Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363. * Erythrina vespertilio,
+BENTH. 218. * Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348. Hardenbergia monophylla,
+236. Hovea lanceolata, 212. ----* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289. * Indigofera
+brevidens, BENTH. 385. ----hirsuta, 122. * Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH.
+258. ----scoparia, 339. * Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365. Labichea
+rupestris, BENTH. 342. * Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273. * Leptocyamus
+latifolius, BENTH. 361. * Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62. ----australis,
+var. 348. Neptunia gracilis, 362. * Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131.
+Sesbania aculeata? 106. * Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363. Vigna, an
+capensis? 339. ----* lanceolata, BENTH. 350. ----* suberecta, BENTH. 388.
+
+ROSEWORTS.
+
+Rubus parvifolius, 351.
+
+LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE).
+
+Lythrum Salicaria, 62.
+
+RHAMNADS.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, 201. Cryptandra propinqua, 223. * Ventilago
+viminalis, HOOKER, 369.
+
+SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE).
+
+* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387. * Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+STACKHOUSIADS.
+
+Stackhousia muricata, 362.
+
+DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE).
+
+Carissa ovata, 393. Tabernaemontana, sp. 341. * Doobah, 85.
+
+LOGANIADS.
+
+* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+GENTIANWORTS.
+
+Erythraea australis, 366.
+
+OLIVEWORTS.
+
+Notclaea punctata, 352.
+
+NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE).
+
+Nicotiana suaveolens, 64. Solanum ellipticum, 215. ----furfuraceum, 212.
+----biflorum, 362. ----violaceum, 365. ----sp. 85.
+
+BINDWEEDS.
+
+* Polymeria longifolia, 398. Convolvulus erubescens, 353. Evolvulus,
+sericeo aff., 386. ----linifolius, 339.
+
+LEADWORTS.
+
+Plumbago zeylanica, 219.
+
+RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE).
+
+Plantago varia, 352.
+
+JASMINWORTS.
+
+* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355. ----lineare, 94. ----* Mitchellii,
+LINDL. 365.
+
+EHRETIADS.
+
+Halgania, sp. 24.
+
+BORAGEWORTS.
+
+* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258.
+
+BRUNONIADS.
+
+Brunonia sericea, 341. ----simplex? 360. ----* simplex, LINDL. 82.
+
+LABIATES.
+
+Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347. * Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362.
+Moschosma polystachya, 137. Plectranthus parviflorus, 347. * Prostanthera
+odoratissima, BENTH., 291. ----* ringens, BENTH., 363. ----*
+euphrasioides, BENTH., 360. Teucrium recemosum, 31. ----argutum, 198.
+Salvia plebeia, 366.
+
+VERBENES.
+
+Chloanthes stoechadis, 298. Vitex, sp. n., 212.
+
+MYOPORADS.
+
+* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31. * Myoporum dulce, 253. ----
+Cunninghamii, 214. * Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273. ----*
+salicinus, BENTH., 251. ----* curvipes, BENTH., 221. ----*
+bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386.
+
+BIGNONIADS.
+
+Tecoma Oxleyi, 291.
+
+ACANTHADS.
+
+Justicia media, 31. 89. 361. ----ascendens, 97. Ruellia australis, 353.
+
+FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE).
+
+Morgania floribunda, 62. 384. Veronica plebeia, 360.
+
+GOODENIADS.
+
+Dampiera adpressa, 339. Goodenia pulchella, 339. ----* flagellifera, DE
+VRIESE, 378. ----coronopifolia, 359. ----geniculata, 72. * Linschotenia
+bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345. * Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258.
+
+COMPOSITES.
+
+Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62. * Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75. ----
+cuneifolia, 28. * Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378. * Eurybia
+subspicata, HOOKER, 293. Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359. Erechthites arguta,
+225. * Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62. * Flaveria australasica, HOOKER,
+118. Helichrysum bracteatum, 79. ----* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83. ----
+semipapposum, 389. ----odorum? 362. Helipteres anthemoides, 349. ----*
+glutinosa, HOOK., 361. Minuria heterophylla, 64. Monenteles redolens,
+263. * Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353. Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347.
+Podolepis acuminata? 289. ----rugata? 362. ----longipedunculata, 362.
+Pycnosorus globosus, 353. Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78. ----*
+arachnoidea, HOOK., 341. Senecio carnosulus? 360. ----Cunninghami, 45.
+----brachylaenus, 62. Sphaeranthus hirtus 212.
+
+HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA).
+
+* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306. ----* glauca, LINDL., 91. * Myriophyllum
+verrucosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE).
+
+Angophora lanceolata, 81. * Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235. Eucalyptus
+sideroxylon, 339. ----* acuminatus, HOOK. 390. Eucalyptus pulverulento
+aff. 91. ----* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235. ----* citriodorus, HOOKER,
+235. ----* populifolius, HOOKER, 204. ----bicolor, 390. ----* viminalis,
+HOOKER, 157. * Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298. * Melaleuca
+trichostachya, LINDL. 277. ----* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262. Schidiomyrtus
+tenellus, 340. * Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198.
+
+CINCHONADS.
+
+Canthium sp. 386. ----* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397. Pomax hirta, 340.
+
+STELLATES.
+
+Asperula? 360.
+
+UMBELLIFERS.
+
+Actinotus Helianthi, 345. Daucus brachiatus, 235. Didiscus pilosus, 593.
+
+SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE).
+
+Fusanus acuminatus, 105. Santalum oblongatum 101.
+
+LORANTHS.
+
+* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102. ----* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101.
+----* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224. ----* nutans, CUNN. 158.
+
+[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-
+long) on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).]
+
+LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the
+Interior of Tropical Australia In Search of a Route from Sydney to the
+Gulf of Carpentaria (1848) by Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855) Surveyor-General of New South Wales, by Thomas Mitchell
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION ***
+
+***** This file should be named 9943.txt or 9943.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+by Thomas Mitchell
+
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+Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+
+Author: Thomas Mitchell
+
+Release Date: February, 2006  [EBook #9943]
+[This file was first posted on November 2, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
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+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA ***
+
+
+
+
+E-text prepared by Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
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+
+Notes in the book are shown in square brackets at the point referenced.
+
+Maps and plates not shown in the text version of this ebook
+
+
+=======================================================================
+
+
+Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
+
+by
+
+Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TO
+THE HONOURABLE
+THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS
+OF THE
+LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW  SOUTH WALES,
+THIS JOURNAL
+OF
+AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,
+PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,
+AND
+UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,
+IS
+DEDICATED
+BY
+THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,
+HUMBLE SERVANT,
+T. L. MITCHELL
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the
+most attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of
+Australia. There the philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the
+poet for original studies and ideas; the naturalist for additional
+knowledge; and the historian might begin at a beginning. The traveller
+there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, or towers; but he
+is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of healthful
+progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
+Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions
+still unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now
+that the rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most
+deserving people on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved
+by the Almighty for their use.
+
+In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early
+period between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known
+to the ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--
+
+"Communemque prius, ceu lumina solis et auras, Cautus humum longo
+signavit limite mensor." [* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]
+
+The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
+arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
+internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and
+the north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the
+last twenty years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to
+bring under the notice of men of science some of the earth's productions
+hitherto unknown. He cannot sufficiently express his sense of obligation
+in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and
+Professor De Vriese, for supplying the botanical matter and notes
+contained in this volume, and thus contributing to the general stock of
+human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that during the
+long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
+register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst
+of his important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison
+of minute details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
+
+The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in
+its accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of
+latitude; trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever
+heights were available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route.
+This route was connected, at its commencement and termination, with the
+trigonometrical survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a
+survey extending two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of
+his intersections with that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could
+not but be very satisfactory to the author.
+
+The geological specimens collected during this journey have been
+deposited in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on
+the maps by the numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be
+available to geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science,
+the fossils now brought from these remote regions will be accessible at
+any future time, and something known of the geology as well as of the
+geography of the interior. As Professor Forbes most readily undertook to
+describe the freshwater shells after the work had passed through the
+press, that portion of the collection also has thus been brought under
+the notice of geologists.
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+GENERAL MAP
+
+Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord
+Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--
+Scattered population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of
+sheep on cattle runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--
+Sulphureous springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan.
+Leave Bultje's country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between
+the squatters and the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of
+young bullocks.--Richard Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night
+without water.--Distress from heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion
+of the party.--Melancholy fate of the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants
+discovered.--Encampment at Mudaa.--Carry water forward.--Arrive at
+Darobal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelego.--Discovery of a lagoon.--Encamp
+near Canbelego. Explore the Bogan in search of water.--Long ride.--Quit
+the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE
+
+Move to the ponds of Cannonba.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's
+intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of
+weather.--A day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt
+plant.--Reconnoitre Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach
+of a flood announced.--It arrives in clear moonlight.--(Frontispiece.)--
+Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering cattle.--(Plate 2. p.
+61.) A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the
+Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds
+destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to
+modern names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of
+the Macquarie and Barwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--
+Admirable distribution of water. The ford at Wyabry.--The party crosses
+the Darling
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--
+SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.
+
+Plains and low hills.--The Carawy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The
+Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--
+During the delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the
+Narran.--New plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their
+passage.--The party fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills
+examined.--Good grassy country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west
+of the river.--Ride up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley
+with a native.--Gravelly ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--
+Approach the assembled natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial
+reception.--Cross the Balonne.--Reach the Culgoa.--Cross that river.--
+Route beyond.--The Upper Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on
+trees.--A native scamp.--Fine country.--Splendid reaches of the river
+(Plate 3. page 119.)--Lagoons near it.--Lake Parachute.--Seek a
+position--for a depot camp.--Ride to the north-west.--Character of the
+country.--Search for water. Uncommon birds.--Return to the camp.--New
+Acacia
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANOA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE
+PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--
+Trace one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore
+it.--Fine country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small
+tributary.--Mountains discovered.--Camp visited by three
+natives.--"Cogoon" the name of tributary.--Charms of the Australian
+climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme cold.--Traces of high floods in the
+Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--
+Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel
+due north over open downs.--Advantages of mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount
+Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party advances to the Amby--followed
+by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter the country through the
+pass.--Find one pond.--A large river discovered.--Position taken up on
+its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore to the north-
+west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior country
+visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to
+trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--
+Native visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The
+Tagando tribe again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance
+again with a light party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE,
+ AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--
+Ride north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party
+crosses Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the
+north-west.--Banks of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards
+it.--Flank movement to the Maranoa for water.--None found in its bed.--
+View from Mount Owen.--Names of localities on the map.--Scarcity of water
+impedes our progress.--Water found in rocky gullies.--Excursion
+northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern summit of Mount Owen.--
+Progress through a broken country.--Night without water.--Another route
+explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount Owen.--Route for
+the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount P. P. King.--
+View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount Faraday.--
+Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the camp.--
+The party with the carts advances.--(Pyramids, Plate IV., page 222.)--
+Course of the new found river.--New plants.--A large lake receives the
+river.--(Plate V., John Martin's Range, page 225.)--The outlet dry.--
+Enter a scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich
+soil on the downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river.
+Fossil wood.--Again shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a
+gully.--Balmy Creek.--New plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower
+Almond.--(Pl. 6. page 237.)--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount
+Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,
+
+Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate
+and country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the
+water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--
+Causes of the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river
+channel from the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much
+increased.--Long journey through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the
+river bank.--Character of this river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--
+Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach the river by moonlight.--Large
+lagoons.--New tributary--from the S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night
+without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp visited by natives during
+my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party crosses the river.--
+Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the natives.--The
+shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable
+production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--
+Singular meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--
+Recross the Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable
+tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to
+explore a river in brigalow.--A more direct way homewards.--Successful
+passage with carts and drays.--Open downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the
+Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the Salvator.--Position taken up for
+a depot camp.--Interesting plants.--(View on the Salvator, Pl. 8.)
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189.)
+
+Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three
+volcanic hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--
+The Nive and the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found,
+after a night of thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--
+Morning view from a rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open
+downs.--Brigalow scrubs away from the river.--River much increased.--
+Security from natives--Thoughts in these solitudes.--The downs and the
+river.--An emu shot there.--A river joins from the east.--Structure of
+native's huts.--Two separate channels unite.--The river well filled.--
+Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--
+surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and return homewards.--The
+savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the S. W.--Short cut along
+the left bank of the river.--Name it the Victoria.--Privations in
+exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by a snake.--
+Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp of
+the pyramids.--Rare and new plants  collected there.--(View of Lindley's
+Range, Pl. 9.)
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189., and Map IV., Page 133.)
+
+Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount
+Faraday.--Valley of the Warrego.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp
+over the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranoa.--The river found to be near our
+former track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle
+tracks.--Arrival at the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--
+during our absence.--(Pl. 7. ABORIGINAL DANCE, page 358).--Plants
+gathered at the depot camp.--New plants.--Fossils at Mount Sowerby.--
+Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the depot camp following the
+course of the Maranoa.--Discovery of a fine open country.--Numbered trees
+at camps.--The country on the Maranoa.--Singular habits of a fish.--Name
+of river obtained from good authority.--(Pl. 10. VIEW ON THE MARANOA,
+page 372).--The Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at length
+discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive at
+the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+(Having reference to Map III., Page 81.)
+
+(VIEW OF ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, Pl. 11)--Despatches sent forward.--
+Acquisitions during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The
+party crosses the Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle
+stations.--Heavy rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a
+hill.--Dam thrown up.--The waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival
+at the Barwan.--A flood.--(Pl. 12. LAST USE OF THE BOATS, page 395).--
+Cross the Maal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount
+Riddell recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A
+stockman.--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of the
+Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire,
+kangaroos, and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--
+Experiment worth trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the
+party.--Of convicts generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--
+capabilities of soil and climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division
+and appropriation of the territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india
+
+MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA   Page 430
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--
+Letter, dated 28th October, 1830
+
+Systematical List of Plants
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+[Not included in the text-file version of this eBook]
+
+Flood coming down the Macquarie (pl. 1. p. 58) Map I. The Indian
+Archipelago Portrait of Bultje Remnant of the Bogan tribe Map II. The
+Rivers Bogan and Macquarie First use of the boats (pl. 2) Map III. The
+Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also
+the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon Separation of the Balonne
+into the Culgoa, Narran, &c. The River Balonne, 7th April (pl. 3) Map IV.
+Advance to the Maranoa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge The
+Bottle tree, DELABECHEA The black awaiting the white Map V. The country
+and the routes between the Maranoa and Mount Mudge, and those along the
+River Victoria Tree without branches The Pyramids (pl. 4) Martin's Range
+(pl. 5) Tower Almond (pl. 6) Map VI. The River Belyando Missile club of
+natives of Central Australia Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?) The River
+Salvator, 5th Sept. (pl. 8) Lindley's Range (pl. 9) Old native female
+Aboriginal dance (pl. 7) View on the River Maranoa (pl. 10) Acacia
+VARIANS St. Georgia's Bridge (pl. 11) Last use of the boats (pl. 12) Map
+VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries
+
+* * * * *
+
+JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.
+
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
+STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED
+POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM SYDNEY.--A
+SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET AN OLD
+ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN RIVER.--
+YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY OF WATER.--
+THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY FATE OF THE
+BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER FORWARD.--
+DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS DIE FROM
+THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, BY MOVING
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBA.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH THE PARTY.
+
+The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
+first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
+entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
+part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
+development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The same
+direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the Royal
+Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a committee of
+the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most desirable to pursue
+at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony from distress
+found favour with the public.
+
+At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
+islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
+industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
+themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,
+
+"Which mock'd their scant manurings, and requir'd MORE HANDS THAN THEIRS
+to prune their wanton growth."
+
+The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, "al
+nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," seemed
+to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the wayward
+fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern extremity
+of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis incognita."
+The character of the interior of that country still remained unknown, the
+largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere exploration, the
+colonists of New South Wales might not have been very anxious just at
+that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical knowledge could
+be combined with that of exploring a route towards the nearest part of
+the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, it was easy to awaken
+the attention of the Australian public to the importance of such an
+enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount the Indian cavalry had
+commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of Torres Straits had been
+injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided by any overland route
+from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
+South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
+shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with England
+by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by land, was
+an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In short, the
+commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the direct road
+home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the discovery of a
+good overland route between Sydney and the head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be introduced
+from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
+
+In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
+the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to
+the settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-ile forming the furthest
+point of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
+therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that of
+the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a considerable
+river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
+submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
+His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
+reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
+should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
+Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more money
+than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards the expense
+of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. His
+Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
+the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
+still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
+to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
+interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
+which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
+despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
+and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six persons
+who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not been heard
+of, and were supposed to have either perished or been destroyed by
+natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from Port
+Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
+shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
+
+The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, favourable
+to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still declined to
+allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any reason for
+keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it became known
+in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, with the express
+sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring expedition from Adelaide
+into the northern interior of Australia, and that he was actually then in
+New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had expressed, in one of his early
+despatches to the British Government, his readiness to encourage such an
+undertaking as that, and stated that "no one came forward to claim the
+honour of such an enterprise;" yet now that Lord Stanley had sanctioned
+the plan of the Surveyor General, whose duty it was to survey the
+country, he refused to allow this officer to proceed. The Legislative
+Council, however, renewed the petition for this undertaking, to which the
+Governor at length assented, in 1845; and the sum of 2000L. was
+unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but with the clear
+understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of the Surveyor
+General should be adopted.
+
+The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. The
+journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report that a
+large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
+accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
+still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first
+papers published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
+suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
+Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by a
+map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
+
+In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
+land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
+bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
+preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
+greater number of men, were considered objections; while many experienced
+persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more enduring than
+horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] Eight
+drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: four
+of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
+Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two
+parts, on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party
+moved off from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.
+
+I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having rode
+there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following Monday,
+15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior. The
+Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:--
+
+SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.
+EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command. W.
+STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural
+History. PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes. Charles Niblett, William Graham,
+ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper. WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.
+John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper. Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers. Edward
+Taylor, William Bond, William Mortimer, George Allcot, John Slater,
+Richard Horton, Felix Maguire, James Stephens, Carpenters. Job Stanley,
+Edward Wilson, Blacksmith. George Fowkes, Shoemaker. John Douglas,
+Barometer carrier. Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman. Andrew Higgs,
+Chainman. William Hunter, With the horses. Thomas Smith, Patrick Travers,
+Carter and Pioneer. Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher. Arthur Bristol,
+Sailmaker and Sailor.
+
+8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3
+light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was
+provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the
+party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest
+consisted of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.
+
+With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the party
+consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,
+with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so
+powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,
+from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely
+on their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the
+face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of
+the old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp
+arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly
+forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of
+discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a
+party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and
+it was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as
+mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the same
+kind of authority could not be exercised.
+
+Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former line
+of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived at
+Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same chain
+of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named Dochendoras
+Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds. These ponds had
+been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the 9th December--the
+day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had been clear and sultry.
+A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day, levelled part of the forest
+near this place, laying prostrate the largest trees, one side of which
+was completely barked by the hailstones. Many branches of trees along the
+line of route, showed that the wind had been very violent to a
+considerable distance.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,
+therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the
+chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and
+difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing,
+chiefly to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to
+have taken, but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays
+before my arrival at the camp.
+
+We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that
+Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a
+gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all
+sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which
+may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,
+or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot, although
+previously unknown in these regions.
+
+17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 A.M. and travelled along a good road, for
+about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of ponds,
+following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called
+Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we
+finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We
+had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but
+everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a
+blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of
+rain, it had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the
+Macquarie.
+
+Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared with
+a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper. She
+had been there two years, and only complained that they had never been
+able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to
+leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they
+should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,
+and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found
+work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very
+little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied
+sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His
+conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his
+family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been obliged
+to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man
+neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under
+the new regulations.
+
+"So you saw no more of them?"
+
+"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them AFTER THEY HAD BEEN SOLD AT THE
+POUND!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small family of
+children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could have kept
+my cows."
+
+This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked along,
+for he was one of the race--
+
+"Who march to death with military glee."
+
+But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the
+hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the
+desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the
+DISJECTA MEMBRA of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left to
+the people themselves in a new colony.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 A.M., and continued along a
+tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek, in which
+there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the good beaten
+road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left, which brought
+us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds, three miles
+higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to encamp here, I
+pursued the road south-westward along the chain of ponds, anxious to
+ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily to the westward
+of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of route to the Bogan.
+At about five miles I found an excellent opening through which the road
+passed on ground almost level. Having ascended a small eminence on the
+right, I fell in with some natives with spears, who seemed to recognise
+me, by pointing to my old line of route, and saying, "Majy Majy" (Major
+Mitchell). I little thought then that this was already an outlying
+picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe my party. The day
+was hot, therm. 97 deg. in the shade. The chain of ponds, there called "the
+Little River," contained water in abundance, and was said to flow into
+the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but few sources in
+Hervey's Range.
+
+The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard, and had
+been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now a sheep
+station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a mile and a
+half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country suitable
+for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment of sheep
+on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as where
+sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where cattle
+would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter
+description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The
+plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive
+pasturage in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to
+inundations to be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this
+description lies on the interior side of the ranges, as far as I have
+examined them. It is watered by the sources of the rivers Goulburn,
+Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee, Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh,
+Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and Darling; on which rivers the runs will always
+make cattle fat. There are two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there
+is something salsolaceous in the herbage also on which cattle thrive so
+well; and the open plains and muddy waterholes are their delight.
+Excessive drought, however, may occasionally reduce the owners of such
+stock to great extremities, and subject them to serious loss. The Acacia
+pendula, a tree whose HABITAT is limited and remarkable, is much relished
+by the cattle. It is found only in clay soils, on the borders of plains,
+which are occasionally so saturated with water as to be quite impassable;
+never on higher ground nor on any lower than that limited sort of
+locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers which at some seasons overflow.
+In such situations, even where grass seems very scarce, cattle get fat;
+and it is a practice of stockmen to cut down the Acacia pendula (or Myall
+trees, as they call them) for the cattle to feed on.
+
+At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual who
+had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of
+colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his
+consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state
+of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there
+were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be
+startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system
+which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one
+thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should
+be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so
+favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite
+theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and
+propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this
+unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal
+native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they could
+not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences between
+squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it were
+an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more likely
+to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;
+remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,
+all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money, then
+place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than a
+black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I
+penned these remarks.
+
+19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously examined.
+On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees, plants,
+and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each side,
+and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious shrub
+never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy
+valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of
+former difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had
+travelled upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This
+consisted of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had
+formerly been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of
+Three Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their
+appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend
+Bultje, who had guided me from thence to the Bene Rocks, on my former
+journey along the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had
+elapsed since I formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time
+had made no alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to
+forward my views that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water
+was to be found; and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former
+route, by the least possible DETOUR. Mount Laidley bore 23 deg. E. of N.
+
+20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass seemed
+good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A cattle
+station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and at
+about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it
+crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally
+diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace
+of the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill
+laid down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,
+I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very springs
+mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being limpid and
+surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were now trodden
+by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been endeavouring
+to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it pure, by
+laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The change
+produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by the
+intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable, and I
+could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native, should have
+felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from the level
+plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty feet lower
+continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste of sulphur,
+and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more celebrated.
+They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are not
+supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain
+descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang Creek
+did however retain some water which had fallen during the last rain. The
+thermometer stood at 107 deg. in the tent.
+
+21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a straight
+line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half way to the
+Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating country, just
+heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our guide knew the
+country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here also were two
+flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head station, being
+fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap. While travelling
+this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters from Buree, and a cart
+had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a small supply of corn.
+That country is considered excellent as a fattening run for sheep; the
+shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which keeps them in
+excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of water at some
+seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into sheep runs, and
+VICE VERSA, a contingency which seems to render these lands of Hervey's
+range of temporary and uncertain value.
+
+22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the little
+chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was good--
+the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N. W. It was
+the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing at length
+to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we further
+on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon its
+western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains had
+been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length
+arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Gananaguy,
+and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here
+looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there
+was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,
+and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the
+country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or
+Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the
+Bogan seemed low.
+
+This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the
+failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an
+almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water
+for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform
+width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be
+sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain
+tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the
+sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions
+of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are
+greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is
+scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had
+been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses cannot
+travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the mercy
+of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking
+kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of
+cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and
+lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109 deg. at noon, wind
+W.N.W.
+
+23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr. Templar's
+station at Gananaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood by the party
+as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink to each of
+the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest water-holes
+(Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service he promised,
+I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco promised him, and
+also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This native got a bad
+name from various stockmen, as having been implicated in the murder of
+Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded; and it must indeed
+require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates to maintain his
+footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen or shepherds
+on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter savages
+naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as we
+should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to them,
+while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most unjustly
+connected this native's name with the murder of one of our number. His
+laconic manner and want of language would not admit of any clear
+explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and the
+difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance of
+his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley
+in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil,
+at least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition.
+Much tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by
+stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when
+aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to
+save or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this,
+without having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own
+valley, "surpasseth me to know."
+
+We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr. Gilmore's
+station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk. At the
+station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a flood had
+come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up the well.
+The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the clay was wet
+and soft when the further sinking was interrupted. Thermometer in my tent
+109 deg., wind W. N. W.
+
+24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest sunbeams
+shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off early, but the
+progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind blew like a blast
+furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We encamped on the
+Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after travelling about ten
+miles. Thermometer in tent, 103. deg. Hot wind from the west.
+
+25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more
+from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107 deg..
+
+26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to Mr.
+Coss, 21/2 miles. Thermometer, 109 deg..
+
+27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of the
+bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.
+
+At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind
+from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot
+wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117 deg., and when exposed
+to the wind rose rapidly to 129 deg., when I feared the thermometer would
+break as it only reached to 132 deg..
+
+28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off early,
+accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The day was
+excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally encamped
+on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling eleven miles.
+Thermometer in tent, 115 deg.. At half past five, the sky became overcast,
+and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and suddenly fell. I found
+that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud, leaving a jug of the water
+tolerably clear, but then the acid remained. Towards evening the sky was
+overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The night was uncommonly hot. At
+ten the thermometer stood at 102 deg., and at day-break at 90 deg..
+
+29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle would no
+longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from south. Finding
+a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the lighter
+portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the
+hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM,
+reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a SOLANUM in flower,
+of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener grass
+indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at about
+twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and
+elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had
+been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of
+the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where
+the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the
+Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had
+been once much lower down, at Muda, and even at Nyingan (see INFRA), but
+the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations untenable,
+without more support than the Colonial government was able to afford.
+There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer of the
+country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered. The map
+will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep their
+ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes. [* See
+map of Eastern Australia--INFRA.] The Darling is peopled more permanently
+by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia: affording as
+it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in seasons of very high
+flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got at, and that they are
+obliged to resort to the higher country at such seasons, between the
+Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also happens that the cattle of
+the squatter are most accessible from the soft state of the ground; the
+stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The tribes from the Lachlan
+and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and when tribes assemble they
+are generally ready for any mischief. The Bogan is particularly within
+their reach, and when wet seasons do occur the cattle of squatters must
+be very much at the mercy of the savages. The tribes from the Darling are
+extremely hostile, even to the more peaceably disposed hilltribes near
+the colony, and several stations have already been abandoned in
+consequence of the outrages of the aborigines from the Darling and
+Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils as the precarious
+or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply of water must
+continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from actual
+possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full benefit
+of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres, covered
+with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages smile at the
+want of generalship by which they have been allowed to burn the white
+man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the Bogan. The
+establishment of a police station near the junction of the Bogan with the
+Darling, or the formation of an inland township about Fort Bourke, had
+been sufficient to have secured the stations along the Bogan and
+Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well as our own
+countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such are the
+results where SQUATTING has been permitted to supersede settling. With
+possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied, and no
+such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British colony.
+
+The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
+that between our present camp and Muda, a very large lagoon about 50
+miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206
+feet in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the
+Bogan is only 50 feet between Muda and New Year's Range, in a distance of
+upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Muda
+from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
+general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which
+the overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and
+other channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where
+the declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in
+the channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither
+flow with so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by
+which ponds are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this
+part, during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about
+double the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
+
+I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
+Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require
+to take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
+having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas
+the working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
+journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
+young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
+break them in as we proceeded.
+
+30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool morning.
+Thermometer, 68 deg.. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. Kerr 32
+young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the stockyard.
+
+Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
+
+31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 A. M., 62 deg.: at noon, 109
+deg. Wind S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately
+avoiding the tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into
+the air, also some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass,
+much wanted for the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the
+west in the evening.
+
+1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, and was
+very high at 11 A. M. The party were chiefly employed breaking in the
+young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with the
+hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
+evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
+ATRIPLEX SEMIBACCATA of Brown was a common straggling plant.
+
+2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning was
+cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the clouds, which
+resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat again. Besides the
+SALSOLA AUSTRALIS, we found a HALGANIA with lilac flowers, probably
+distinct from the species hitherto described, which are natives of the
+south-west coast.
+
+3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the old;
+and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in the
+Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to the
+scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the first
+hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named Mount
+Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The little
+pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of Cunningham was so
+identified with the botanical history of almost all the shrubs in the
+very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no other monument
+seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled Cunningham to my mind; his
+barbarous murder, and the uncertainty which still hung over the actual
+circumstances attending it. The shrubs told indeed of Cunningham; of both
+brothers, both now dead; but neither the shrubs named by the one, nor the
+gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had witnessed the bloody deed, could tell
+more. There the ACACIA PENDULA, first discovered and described by Allan,
+could only
+
+"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand, For ever silent, and for ever
+sad."
+
+4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with the
+young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of conveyance
+was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no pecuniary saving
+would compensate, as compared with light carts and horses. I proceeded
+forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called Tabbaratong, where some
+water was said still to remain. We found some mud and water only;
+although some that was excellent was found about two miles lower down the
+Bogan, late in the evening.
+
+We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the squatter.
+The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and humiliating proofs
+that the white man had given way, were visible in the remains of dairies
+burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We hoped to find within
+the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, unsoiled by cattle,
+and a surface on which we might track our own stray animals, without
+their being confused by the traces of others.
+
+5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the night,
+retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
+brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
+native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light carts,
+guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, who had
+come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native of the
+lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our route
+was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of CALLITRIS and
+other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
+thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
+through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
+The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
+route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
+native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
+driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
+which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
+downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
+on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
+but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabada
+and Muda, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
+the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
+arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabada ponds. The water was however
+excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, and we
+hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only arrived at
+as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The drays
+with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock and Yuranigh
+back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without water, and that I
+wished him, if still EN ROUTE, immediately to unyoke the cattle, encamp
+on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes during the night,
+and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes I had found near
+Bugabada. We passed a miserable night without water at Cadduldury.
+
+6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a message
+from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I went forward
+with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 A. M.. The morning
+happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of water and food the
+preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John Douglas and Isaac
+Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at the first water-hole.
+But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy loads thus far in the
+extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to me. William Baldock
+again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of water on a horse, a
+horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the drays, the drivers of
+which were almost frantic and unable to do their work from thirst. He
+brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still remained at his
+encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the drivers (Mortimer
+and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, and chains, to
+escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to watch his own
+team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune to the whole
+party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as my camp, but
+I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the water,
+which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left with the
+drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the water, and
+the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. Stephenson, who had
+hastened back with several bottles, relieved his thirst, and, as the man
+said, "saved his life."
+
+Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
+hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
+the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
+heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
+however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with which
+I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably disposed
+towards us.
+
+7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare bullocks,
+having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during the night.
+The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part of the
+other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in charge
+of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would also have
+gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. Kennedy sent
+him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays carrying the
+provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. The day surpassed
+in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon in the shade stood
+at 109 deg., a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. Kennedy was distant
+at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabada.
+
+The six drays came in about 4 P. M.; the sheep not until long after dark.
+Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. Kennedy,
+and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement for drawing
+forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care of, and which
+was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the evening of next day, to
+be attached on their arrival to the two drays with which they were to
+come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest of the night, until
+they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined to meet them early
+next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it was not my intention to
+send after the four stray bullocks until the drays came in, and the party
+could be again united. Thermometer again 109 deg. in the shade all day.
+
+The CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was the
+common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
+capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
+reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are
+found so troublesome among the wool.
+
+8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he had found
+him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from want of
+water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to a young
+dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated that a
+tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. Baldock
+had seen several bullocks dead on the way. In the evening the two first
+teams were sent off as arranged. This day had also been very sultry,
+especially towards evening.
+
+9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were despatched
+as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered the camp. We
+had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, to suffer so
+little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, until I
+could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I had been
+previously assured by the young native that water was still to be found
+at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal to the
+whole party.
+
+On the banks of the Bogan, the ATRIPLEX HAGNOIDES formed a round white-
+looking bush.
+
+I rode forward to Muda, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, and
+had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who remembered
+my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show me my old track
+and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the northward of my
+present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had been killed in a fight
+with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. Two old grey-haired
+men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed out to me as his
+brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that I had at first
+imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on their hams
+opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and grey, and
+melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
+
+The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
+struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
+Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
+natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of
+the tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives
+were chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
+
+The natives of Muda assured me there was no water nearer than Nyingan, a
+large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct line lower
+down the Bogan. The ponds of Muda, their great store of water, and known
+to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were alarmingly low, and it
+became evident that our progress under such a scarcity of water would be
+attended with difficulty. These natives gave us also a friendly hint that
+"GENTLEMEN" should be careful of the spears of the natives of Nyingan, as
+many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately by white men from Wellington
+Valley.
+
+Among the woods we observed the white-flowered TEUCRIUM RACEMOSUM, the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink flowers; also a
+STENOCHILUS and FUSANUS (the Quandang), although not in fruit; a new
+species of STIPA, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse rough
+herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in the
+way of C. TRUNCATA, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed
+pales,[**] and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new
+EREMOPHILA with white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The
+beautiful DAMASONIUM OVALIFOLIUM, with white flowers red in the centre,
+still existed in the water.
+
+[* S. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi
+villosis, glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis
+involutis culmis brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligula oblonga
+subciliata.]
+
+[** C. SCLERANTHA (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+breviaristato cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili
+vacuo.]
+
+[*** E. MITCHELLI (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis
+linearibus planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4
+superioribus subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
+
+In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
+the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
+was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
+track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
+following it further.
+
+I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
+out present camp near Bugabada was in latitude 31 deg. 56', and thus
+very near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
+terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90 deg.; at 9 P. M., 70 deg.; with wet
+bulb, 63 deg..
+
+10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to the S. W.
+in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I sent
+William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the stray
+bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track to Muda,
+where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and sheep, already
+arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of having been on
+watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell asleep, and that
+the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, but lost himself.
+He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, etc. which he
+declined.
+
+We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
+visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
+state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We had
+passed near Bugabada similar remains of a cattle station. This position
+of Muda was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank nearly
+clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
+surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
+last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of
+a young crop shooting up amongst it.
+
+11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the cattle
+and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Muda for the lost bullocks. To-day I
+noticed the KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
+fruit, edged with pink.
+
+13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning (by
+moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) could
+not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. Kerr's
+station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be found. We
+had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great scarcity of
+water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that our loss
+had been so slight.
+
+I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
+Nyingan, which bore 353 deg.--and having found a tolerably open country
+for about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and
+encamped, sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Muda.
+Enough had been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the
+camp. To ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as
+already stated, the paddock at Muda, in which during this night, they
+could be secured, having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In
+my ride I found a new grass of the genus CHLORIS[*], something like CHL.
+TRUNCATA in habit, some starved specimens of TRICHINIUM LANATUM; amongst
+the grasses I also found the ARISTIDA CALYCINA of Brown, the curious
+NEURACHNE MITCHELLIANA Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and
+also a new PAPPOPHORUM with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**]
+A smart shower fell during the evening.
+
+[* C. ACICULARIS (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+setaceo aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
+
+[** P. FLAVESCENS (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis,
+spica composita densissima oblonga, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis
+pilosis, foliis vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis
+villosis.]
+
+14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Muda, and were immediately
+yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on the same
+bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been encamped, I
+turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water there. I
+found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a journey of
+about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently found I had
+encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was guided by the
+friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his country
+afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I had cut
+off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a north-
+westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels will
+probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan may
+be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
+stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
+been burnt down.
+
+15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day was
+fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
+found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
+the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
+Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
+An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the JASMINUM
+LINEARE, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the water, I saw
+the ALTERNANTHERA NODIFLORA.
+
+16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, crossing
+the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked trees. We
+lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgaba, and made a slight
+detour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we encamped, and
+were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this day's journey
+Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen with those of the
+feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old track, and
+returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces of our
+party.
+
+At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
+natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
+house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were sunken
+very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp had been
+established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look for
+the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
+my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
+thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water,
+but in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen,
+during the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
+
+17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the native
+Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to the
+Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from that point
+to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, provided this did
+not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by sunset. Two old
+women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by whom Piper was told that
+the nearest permanent water was "NIMINE," where white men had attempted
+to form a cattle-station, and been prevented by natives from the Darling,
+many of whom had since been shot by the white men. They said the place
+was far beyond Canbelego, the next stage of my former journey, and where
+these women also said little or no water remained.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven A.M., having found water at Canbelego.
+Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the fruit of the
+CAPPARIS MITCHELLII, which he called an apple, being new to him, but
+which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, and said was
+called "MOGUILE;" he also said that it was eaten by the natives.
+
+18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two small ponds
+remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass than we had
+hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of water, we had
+been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again forward looking for
+water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and after following the
+river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was now within the same
+distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had found abundance of water
+when I sent him to survey it upwards during my last return journey up the
+Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in which Piper pointed, that
+the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as containing water; and as the
+course of that creek, so far as shown on maps, led even more directly to
+the Darling than did the Bogan, I was willing in such a season of extreme
+drought, to avail myself of its waters. My eye had been much injured by
+straining at stars while at the camp near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to
+send Mr. Kennedy on one of my own horses, followed by Graham, to examine
+the water in Duck Creek. I instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35
+deg. E. of North, until he should reach the creek, and if he found water
+in it to return direct to the camp, but that if water was not found on
+first making the creek, then he was to follow Duck Creek up to its
+junction with an eastern branch, surveyed also by Mr. Larmer, and to
+return thence to the camp on a bearing of 240 deg.. I also sent Corporal
+Macavoy with Yuranigh down the Bogan, to ascertain if the channel
+contained any pond between our camp and the part previously examined by
+Mr. Kennedy.
+
+This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve hours,
+and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after examining its
+bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on the plains near
+the head of the eastern branch, but around which there was no grass, all
+having been recently burnt.
+
+20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven A.M., saying he had been twenty-
+four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the same time
+Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me that these
+animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud remaining in
+the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that four of the
+horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that William
+Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an early hour in
+the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the bullocks to
+Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks, also the horses,
+and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the whole of the
+cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks filled.
+
+21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to Nyingan, I
+conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of 1835), having on
+two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts under them all
+the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use the iron boat
+as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage forward;
+that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards the water I
+hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a convenient
+distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven forward to
+return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered possible,
+even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the fine
+reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the 14th
+May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from the gin's
+description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the disputed
+station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve miles from
+Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions to bring the
+drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning. I had sent
+thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of Baldock and
+the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no longer at
+Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats, the contents
+of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was immediately sent
+back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh horses had been left,
+to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to Nyingan during the
+night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the dray--already there with
+the harness casks--bringing an additional supply back in the kegs, when
+the bullocks returned next day.
+
+It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the
+state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at once,
+whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to cross
+to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I
+accordingly set out at 3 P.M., from where the water had been placed in
+the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal
+Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from
+the camp in the direction of 30 deg. E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we
+reached at about 31/2 miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed
+was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond
+of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel
+downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found the
+general direction was westward, until it JOINED THE BOGAN. We next
+followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,
+without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any
+of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,
+in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.
+
+22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western bends of the
+Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great pond beyond
+Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very shining and compact in
+a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed, that the grass was green
+as from recent rain, and that there was more chirping of birds; I was
+tempted once more by these indications, to look for water in the Bogan's
+almost hopeless channel, and there we found a pond, at sight of which
+poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell asleep almost in the
+water. It was small, but being sufficient for our immediate wants, we
+thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and proceeded on our
+eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this pond I discovered
+my old track, which we continued to follow across those large plains,
+whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless. These plains I soon
+again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels, distinctly visible
+in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven years. Arriving at length
+near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we resumed our examination
+of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle tracks; the ovens in which
+the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and about their old encampments
+many heaps of bones; but in none of the deep beds of former ponds or
+lagoons could we discover any water. The grass was nevertheless excellent
+and abundant; and its waste, added to the distress the want of water
+occasioned us, made us doubly lament the absence of civilised
+inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and fine soil could have
+been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor were even kangaroos
+or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer inhabitants of these parts. I
+turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it would have been unsafe
+to venture with cattle and drays into these regions before rain fell. In
+returning, we at first found it difficult to find our old track, by which
+alone we could hope that night to reach the small pond of the morning;
+but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and we had also the good
+fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the pond before sunset.
+There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad indeed to have even that
+water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy, had repeatedly thrown
+himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite ill from thirst.
+
+23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the pond;
+but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed, although
+with water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from an old
+marked tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160 deg., I several
+times during our ride fell in with the old track, and finally reached
+the camp after a rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party had
+arrived the previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr.
+Kennedy was absent, having set off that morning in search of water to
+the N. E. with Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving word
+that he should return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that hour,
+however, and at two I moved the party across the Bogan, and proceeded
+along open plains towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the intention of
+there refreshing the cattle and horses, and awaiting more favourable
+weather. I previously watered out of the half-boat, 106 bullocks, and
+gave a quart to each of the horses. On the way, the heat was so intense
+that our three best and strongest kangaroo dogs died, and it was not
+until 10 P. M. that the drays reached the ponds where I had proposed to
+encamp. About an hour and a half before, Mr. Kennedy also came in,
+having galloped the two horses 66 miles, and hurt both their backs,
+Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 P. M., therm. 80 deg., wet bulb, 68
+deg..
+
+24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from ophthalmia,
+and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several of the men
+were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of this malady
+in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the warm air
+wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same effect until
+the weather changed. At 9 P. M., therm. 84 deg., with wet bulb, 68 deg..
+
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.--BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.--MOVE
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBA AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.--HOT WIND.--HEAT GREATER
+THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.--PIPER'S
+INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.--HIS SENT TO BATHURST.--WEATHER CHANGES.--
+RAIN.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.--SALT MADE FROM THE SALT
+PLANT.--RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."--THE PARTY QUITS CANNONBA--CROSSES
+PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK--AND THENCE TO THE RIVER MACQUARIE.--OPHTHALMIA
+STILL TROUBLESOME.--APPROACH OF A FLOOD ANNOUNCED.--ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR
+MOONLIGHT.--MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.--NO
+WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."--DIFFICULTY OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM
+SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST THE REEDS.--"YULLIYALLY," A
+NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR
+NATIVE GUIDE.--CONDITION OF HIS COUNTRYMEN.--HOW AFFECTED BY THE
+INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.--AT LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.--DELAYED BY
+STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.--AT LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE
+RIVER WITH THE DARLING.--CROSS THE MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION--AND FORD
+THE DARLING AT WYABRY.
+
+25TH JANUARY.--Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application of
+leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent
+William Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought
+back enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The
+ground here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the
+Darling, with the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be
+lost in seeking some ponds where there might be also good grass for the
+cattle. Therm. at sunrise, 97 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 9 P.M. 90
+deg.; with wet bulb, 71 deg..
+
+26TH JANUARY.--I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E. direction
+to where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected from a
+cloudy sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that water
+was near, as natives are seldom found where there is none. He returned
+early with the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of water in a
+creek about five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks. My eyes
+were so far recovered that I could observe the altitude of a star, thus
+ascertaining the latitude of this camp to be 31 deg. 20' 20" S. Therm.
+at sunrise, 85 deg.; at noon, 112 deg.; at 9 P.M. 84 deg.; with wet
+bulb, 70 deg..
+
+27TH JANUARY.--The whole party moved to the ponds called "Cannonba" by
+the natives. There we found greater abundance of water and better grass
+than we had seen near water during the whole journey, and I determined to
+halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had previously
+intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle, when we
+should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers had been
+much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses had got out
+of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the Darling their
+services would be more required. I was also to try the experiment here,
+whether I might prosecute the journey without danger of losing my
+eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point, had been
+almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no hostile
+natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins; rain was
+daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly come in a
+short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented to me as
+needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the wheels;--
+and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we could encamp
+under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We placed our tents
+amongst shady bushes--set up the blacksmith's forge, and soon all hands
+were at work in their various avocations, whilst the cattle and horses
+enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance of water.
+
+Amongst the bushes here, a HAKEA, with simple filiform mucronulate leaves
+without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls resembling dry
+plums. Also the SENECIO CUNNINGHAMI (D.C.), found by Allan Cunningham on
+the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson discovered here a very pretty
+new TRICHINIUM, with heads of hoary pink flowers. [* T. SEMILANATUM
+(Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis, angulatis, foliis linearibus
+acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris hemisphericis, rachi
+dense bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis plumosis parce
+lanatis.]
+
+I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan,
+consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E.
+of us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by
+Larmer is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful
+one it has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds
+(whence we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonba;" and to
+what I suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point
+northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78 deg.; at
+noon, 115 deg.; at 4 P.M. 96 deg.; at 9, 88 deg.; with wet bulb, 73 deg..
+
+28TH JANUARY.--Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with large
+chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the bottom of
+one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about the banks.
+Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station had not
+been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by some old gins
+seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when the place was
+abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the W.N.W. of Mount
+Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse was broader
+than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained much granitic sand, all
+but identifying its sources with those of the Macquarie. This day was
+very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a shower fell about 3 P.M.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 78 deg.; at noon, 115 deg.; at 4 P.M. 108 deg.;
+at 9, 84 deg.; with wet bulb, 63 deg..
+
+29TH JANUARY.--A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer to 115
+deg. in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon
+became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near
+us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a
+heavy shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102 deg..
+
+30TH JANUARY.--An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the quarter
+where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This day the
+doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in my
+former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor
+fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80 deg.; at noon, 103 deg.; at 4 P.M., 108
+deg.; at 9, 100 1/2 deg.; with wet bulb, 79 deg..
+
+31ST JANUARY.--The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of
+observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The table
+for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by my
+friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88 deg. of Fahrenheit, whereas at
+4 P.M., the centigrade thermometer stood at 441/2 deg., which is equal to
+112 deg. of Fahrenheit.
+
+This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking
+with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made
+some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various sayings
+and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never any serious
+intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its progress. The
+services of other more intelligent natives might easily have been
+obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but
+Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of
+course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long interval
+of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance, although
+during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay, the river
+Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party on this
+last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled gun,
+clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets, place in a
+tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a very bad
+shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to obtain any
+clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as interpreter; he
+went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had drawn his rations and
+those of the two young natives separately from the men's mess the week
+before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their fair share; he
+was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine departure,
+foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he could thus
+obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He also had it
+in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from the other
+two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had heard of
+the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards the
+cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were
+actively at their work,--blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers,--this
+man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse to boot,
+and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom he called
+his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native guide,
+just at the time when such guides were most required. The only difficulty
+I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two others,
+and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in advance, and
+he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to have him
+instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other native,
+Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He denied the
+intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to him to leave
+the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not understand him;
+that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so far from his own
+home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to Bathurst, and the
+rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the other two, and that
+he should be kept apart from them during the night. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 85 deg.; at noon, 111 deg.; at 4 P.M., 112 deg.; at 9, 101
+deg.;--with wet bulb, 78 deg..
+
+1ST FEBRUARY.--This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal Graham. Mr.
+Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police station, and
+make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper to Bathurst,
+his own district, which would put it out of his power to molest the party
+by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it. On them this
+measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh calmly observing
+that Piper had only himself to blame for what had befallen him, and that
+he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook also to obtain, if he
+could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those which had died from
+excessive heat. By that loss our party was left almost without dogs; and
+dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and emus, but to afford
+protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks by the natives, in
+which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were approaching, had
+been rather too successful against various armed parties of whites.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 88 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at 4 P.M., 106 deg.;
+at 9 P.M., 88 deg.;--with wet bulb, 76 deg..
+
+2ND FEBRUARY.--The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud which
+appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and eagerly
+watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a presage of
+rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at 4 P.M., 106;
+at 9, 88 deg.;--with wet bulb, 72 deg..
+
+3RD FEBRUARY.--High winds whistled among the trees this morning, and dark
+clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell about 9
+A.M., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of nimbus. The high
+wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and this morning, and
+in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But when the rain began
+to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which quarter the rain seemed
+to come. With it came a very peculiar smell, which I had noticed near
+Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the commencement of the rainy
+weather there; and nothing could have been more welcome to us now, than
+the prospect of rain, and the decided change in the temperature from 115
+deg. to 73 deg.. This was almost the first day during a month in which
+the air had not been warmer than our blood; often had it been greater
+than fever heat, so that 73 deg. felt to us as cool as 50 deg. would have
+been to a resident of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at our camp, but it
+seemed that rain was falling about the sources of the Bogan and other
+places at which a supply of water was indispensable to enable us to
+proceed. At sunset, glimpses of a clear sky appeared about the horizon,
+and during the night the moon and stars came forth, and destroyed all
+hopes of more rain. We were thankful, however, for the relief afforded by
+what had fallen, which had lowered the temperature about 40 degrees, and
+enabled us to enjoy a night of refreshing rest. Thermometer at sunrise,
+85 deg.; at noon, 80 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 68 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 67 deg..
+
+4TH FEBRUARY.--The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with refreshing
+breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61 deg.. This day we had
+completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the tire-
+rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the wheels;
+the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat, as to
+have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were required
+by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts, and
+the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and zeal.
+Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for another
+effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 89 deg.; at 4 P.M., 89
+deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+5TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the mercurial column stood higher than I had
+yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across the
+sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards the
+northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the
+thermometer never having risen above 96 deg.. By 6 P.M., the barometer
+had fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial
+circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a
+change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not only
+to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 96 deg.; at
+9, 73 deg.; with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+6TH FEBRUARY.--Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky, and
+shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change seemed
+to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the
+previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and
+at about 7 A.M. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the
+woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer had
+fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue
+through the night. Range of thermometer from 74 deg. to 72 deg..
+
+7TH FEBRUARY.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the
+mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening.
+About 10 A.M. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke
+through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus.
+Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie,
+Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had
+risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains
+about five inches.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for Piper's
+conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back a good
+bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various water-
+courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the natives
+about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at sunrise,
+74 deg.; at noon, 86 deg.; at 4 P.M., 90 deg.; at 9, 80 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 75 deg..
+
+8TH FEBRUARY.--The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air made us
+much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had been living,
+although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air,
+especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry
+heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it
+(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80 deg.;
+at noon, 96 deg.; at 4 P.M., 95 deg.; at 9, 80 deg.;--with wet bulb, 75
+deg..
+
+9TH FEBRUARY.--The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to bestow
+more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these
+remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It
+appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only
+efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible
+condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a
+vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher
+country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the
+"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for
+licking the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep,
+lumps of it being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it
+is certain that by this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much
+injured in health and condition, losing their appetite for grass, and
+finally passing clay only, as may be seen near such places. In the salt
+plants on these plains, nature has amply provided for this taste of these
+large herbivora for salt. Our sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and
+the cattle ate greedily of various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly
+salt to the taste. The colour of the leaves of such bushes is usually a
+very light bluish green, and there are many species. That with the
+largest leaves, called salt-bush by stockmen, and by Dr. Brown RHAGODIA
+PARABOLICA, was very useful as a vegetable after extracting the salt
+sufficiently from it. This we accidentally discovered from some
+experiments made by Mr. Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the
+proportion of salt contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much
+as a twentieth part of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from
+two pounds of the leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the
+leaves a few minutes in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a
+third water, the leaves formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat
+resembling spinach. As the superior excellence of these runs for
+fattening cattle is admitted on all hands, as compared with others more
+abundant in grass on the eastern side of the great range, would it not be
+advisable for the colonists to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and
+thereby to produce a vegetable substitute for the rock salt, which is not
+only expensive, but only a very imperfect remedy for the clay-licking
+propensities of sheep and cattle on many runs? Thermometer at sunrise, 70
+deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 98 deg.; at 9, 86 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 75 deg..
+
+[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:--"Two pounds of the
+green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then
+strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted to
+a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint
+of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then
+exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a
+cubic shape having previously been formed."]
+
+10TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an
+animal apparently of the same genus as the DIPUS MITCHELLII, and which
+seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three
+millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three
+more. A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 P.M. a dark thunder
+cloud came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was
+very loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high,
+and rain heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 P.M., except in the N.
+E. where the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75 deg..
+
+11TH FEBRUARY.--The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward of
+our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the Macquarie. I hoped
+to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party halting on it
+one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I was now
+convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party until it
+could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it,
+with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp,
+a direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to
+divide the journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I
+crossed plains covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at
+length obtained a sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck
+Creek (that of Sturt), or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the
+bearing of Mount Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined
+the bed of the Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing
+therein the least indication of water, and returned to the camp fully
+resolved to proceed next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little
+way below Mount Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for
+the cattle to travel over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at
+noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57
+deg.. From an average of twenty-five observations of the mercurial
+column, the height of this station has been determined to be 566 English
+feet above the level of the sea.
+
+12TH FEBRUARY.--We broke up our encampment on Cannonba ponds, where we
+had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and crossing the
+channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we travelled over
+open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At thirteen miles we
+reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra," a name by which it
+is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this we crossed several
+branches, from which it would appear as if the name was derived from that
+of the hand, which is the same, especially as natives sometimes hold up
+the hand and extend the fingers, when they would express that a river has
+various branches or sources. I went on with an advanced party towards the
+Macquarie, and encamped on the bank of that river at 5 P. M. The thick
+grass, low forests of yarra trees, and finally the majestic blue gum
+trees along the river margin, reminded me of the northern rivers seen
+during my journey of 1831. Still even the bed of this was dry, and I
+found only two water holes on examining the channel for two miles. One of
+these was, however, deep, and we encamped near it, surrounded by
+excellent grass in great abundance. The Macquarie, like other Australian
+rivers, has a peculiar character, and this was soon apparent in the reeds
+and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy plats, and not, as usual in other
+rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks. The channel was here deep and
+dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by Marra Creek, the ACACIA
+SALICINA, whereof the wood has a strong perfume resembling violets, also
+a new small-leaved KOCHIA with intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at
+sunrise, 47 deg.; at 4 P. M., 77 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 56
+deg..
+
+[* K. THYMIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis
+pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.]
+
+13TH FEBRUARY.--I was again laid up with the MALADIE DU PAYS--sore eyes.
+Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster, and to
+various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to which I
+required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down. But no
+one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as no
+person had passed that way; the country being more open on the eastern
+side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at Graway,
+about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the west bank.
+Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the mounted police. To
+my most important question--what water was to be found lower down in the
+river--the reply was very satisfactory; namely, "plenty, and a FLOOD
+COMING DOWN from the Turmountains." The two policemen said they had
+travelled twenty miles with it, on the day previous, and that it would
+still take some time to arrive near our camp. About noon the drays
+arrived in good order, having been encamped where there was no water
+about six miles short of our camp, the whole distance travelled, from
+Cannonba to the Macquarie, having been about nineteen miles. In the
+afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the river, reported on their
+return, that the flood poured in upon them when in the river bed, so
+suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed of the Macquarie
+before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I could scarcely
+believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who had been put
+to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I stationed a man
+with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on the flood's
+appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the channel
+nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to see, as
+well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came, however,
+but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp. Some
+hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like that of
+a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking
+timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very
+slow degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw
+various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood
+appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending
+of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene moonlight
+night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of waters and
+loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the next bend.
+It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a moving cataract,
+tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them against its banks. It
+was preceded by a point of meandering water, picking its way, like a
+thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark, dry, and shady bed,
+of what thus again became a flowing river. By my party, situated as we
+were at that time, beating about the country, and impeded in our journey,
+solely by the almost total absence of water--suffering excessively from
+thirst and extreme heat,--I am convinced the scene never can be
+forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the product of storms in the far
+off mountains, that overlooked our homes. My first impulse was to have
+welcomed this flood on our knees, for the scene was sublime in itself,
+while the subject--an abundance of water sent to us in a desert--greatly
+heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice it to say, I had witnessed
+nothing of such interest in all my Australian travels. Even the heavens
+presented something new, at least uncommon, and therefore in harmony with
+this scene; the variable star ARGUS had increased to the first magnitude,
+just above the beautiful constellation of the southern cross, which
+slightly inclined over the river, in the only portion of sky seen through
+the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly increasing in magnitude,
+might, as characteristic of her rivers, be recognized as the star of
+Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The river gradually filled up
+the channel nearly bank high, while the living cataract travelled onward,
+much slower than I had expected to see it; so slowly, indeed, that more
+than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet music of the head of the
+flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the murmur of waters, and
+the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly through the tortuous
+windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to sleep by that melody
+of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and evidently so unwonted in the
+dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at
+noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P. M., 88 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57
+deg..
+
+14TH FEBRUARY.--The river had risen to within six feet of the top of the
+banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but no
+longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion
+downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the
+Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a
+probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing
+the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the
+Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling
+soon into a cart track which led us to Graway, Mr. Kinghorne's
+cattlestation, and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of
+the river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so
+generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of
+the marshes. The IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, with its long head of white silky
+flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock, on
+the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon, 91 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 82 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 60 deg.. Height above
+the level of the sea, 475 feet.
+
+15TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day, and
+guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have his
+assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other
+objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees
+of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was
+visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon.
+Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most formidable
+impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty of these got
+astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank of rather firm
+ground, in lat. 30 deg. 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on some parts
+of open plains near the marshes, and the best was the PANICUM LOEVINODE
+of Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as having been found
+pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we could not then discover.
+Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was called by the natives "coolly,"
+and that the gins gather it in great quantities, and pound the seeds
+between stones with water, forming a kind of paste or bread; thus was
+clearly explained the object of those heaps of this grass which we had
+formerly seen on the banks of the Darling. There they had formed the
+native's harvest field. There also I observed a brome grass, probably not
+distinct from the BROODS AUSTRALIS of Brown; it called to mind the
+squarrose brome grass of Europe. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at
+noon, 87 deg.; at 4, 89 deg.; at 9, 73 deg.;--with wet bulb, 66 deg..
+
+[* Vol. i. p. 237.]
+
+16TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to examine
+Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be found in it
+lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with the store-
+keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost sheep in
+the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not very far
+from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the flock.
+Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the cattle.
+We had still the Macquarie at hand--deep, muddy, and stagnant--not above
+thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could scarcely approach
+the water without sinking to the knees. We could water the horses with
+buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of filling one of the
+half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means, was inevitable,
+and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a wheel required
+repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these reasons found
+it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly. At sunset,
+Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the "Marra," (Duck
+Creek).
+
+Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the ANDROPOGON
+SERICEUS and an ERIANTHUS, which appeared to differ from E. FULVUS in
+having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the European LYTHRUM
+SALICARIA, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among the reeds of the
+Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the Thames. We saw also
+MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D. C.), a variety with toothed
+leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling B. HETERODONTA, only the leaves were
+entire. A new species of LOTUS appeared among the reeds, very near the
+narrow-leaved form of L. AUSTRALIS on the one hand, and the South
+European narrow-leaved form of L. CORNICULATUS on the other; the flowers
+were pink, and smaller than in L. AUSTRALIS.[*] Also an ETHULIA [**],
+which may, on further examination, constitute a new genus; it was found
+by Allan Cunningham on the Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54 deg.; at
+noon, 86 deg.; at 4 P.M., 84 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 54
+deg..
+
+[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus
+v. lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3--6-
+floris, calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-
+acuminatis tubo suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.]
+
+[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo, foliis
+oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis
+globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis
+paucis brevibus.]
+
+17TH FEBRUARY.--The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne having shown
+me a few miles more of the best ground between the scrubs and reeds, went
+towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie, where a belt of open
+forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass. He prevailed on a
+native whom he met with there to come with him to me, and to guide me to
+water until I reached the Barwan. This native at first seemed rather
+afraid of our numerous party, but our own native, Yuranigh, endeavoured
+by every means to make him at ease, and to induce him to remain with us.
+He guided us this day by fine open ground westward of the marshes, to a
+part of the Macquarie where the banks were solid enough to admit of the
+cattle drinking. The name was Bilgawangara; I reached the spot early, but
+at sunset no drays had come up. At length I was informed that such was
+the softness of the soil, that the drays had sank frequently, that two
+were fast in one place, four in another, and that two of the bullocks
+were astray. The marshes were said to be just then occupied by some angry
+tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne had warned me to be on my guard. The
+patience necessary to any traveller depending on bullocks and bullock
+drivers, I then thought ought to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was
+very shy, and Yuranigh feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for
+finding water--on our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not
+have done then to have sent him away. The weather might change, and these
+marshes become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of
+Providence in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red
+Sea. It depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be
+considered Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the
+moon had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat.
+30 deg. 45' 55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at
+4 P.M., 88 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 54 deg..
+
+18TH FEBRUARY.--Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind, and the
+iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The
+cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's
+journey without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of
+the two lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to
+little Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had
+lost them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search,
+as Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of
+entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his
+escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that
+the white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the
+country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere
+child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them being
+young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds.
+
+In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the
+native tobacco, NICOTIANA SUAVEOLEUS, the MINURIA HETEROPHYLLA (D.C.),
+found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a FUGOSIA near F.
+DIGITATA of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery ATRIPLEX
+with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 93 deg.; at 4 P.M., 96 deg.; at
+9, 67 deg.;-- with wet bulb 59 deg..
+
+[* A. NUMMULARIA (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis
+alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque
+argenteis, floribus monoicis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis
+subrotundis dentatis basi connatis.]
+
+19TH FEBRUARY.--We set off early, guided by our native friend. He was a
+very perfect specimen of the GENUS HOMO, and such as never is to be seen,
+except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale of
+graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free
+enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than
+can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod
+animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs;
+the fulness yet perfect elasticity of the GLUTEI muscles. The hollowness
+of the back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso,
+ornamented as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised
+scarifications most tastefully placed; such were some of the
+characteristics of this perfect "piece of work." Compared with it, the
+civilised animal, when considered merely in the light of a specimen in
+natural history, how inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of
+that class, for such teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of
+sight, hearing, smelling, tasting, feeling; for such powers of running,
+climbing, or walking; for such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of
+all that nature provides for her children of the woods. Such health and
+exemption from disease; such intensity of existence, in short, must be
+far beyond the enjoyments of civilised men, with all that art can do for
+them; and the proof of this is to be found in the failure of all attempts
+to persuade these free denizens of uncultivated earth to forsake it for
+the tilled ground. They prefer the land unbroken and free from the
+earliest curse pronounced against the first banished and first created
+man. The only kindness we could do for them, would be to let them and
+their wide range of territory alone; to act otherwise and profess good-
+will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the land without producing a
+change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that which took place on
+man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have hitherto lived utterly
+ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or the utility of
+ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would, no doubt,
+prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to original sin,
+even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were the reflections
+suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped on lightly before
+me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our party, who,
+muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in favour of our
+pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our faithful Yuranigh
+was all that could be wished. He was assiduously making to the stranger
+such explanations of our wants and purposes, as induced him to conduct us
+in the direction these required. He led us, thus admonished, over those
+parts of the country most favourable for the passage of wheels. The
+rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts were covered with most
+luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a salt-bush plain, where
+there was a small pond of water left by the last rains on a clay surface.
+There was certainly enough for ourselves and horses, but it appeared that
+our guide had greatly underrated the capacity for water, of our hundred
+bullocks. For these, however, there was superb grass to the westward, and
+a little dew fell on it during the night. Thermometer at sunrise, 59
+deg.; at noon, 102 deg.; at 4 P. M., 104 deg.; at 9, 77 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 65 deg..
+
+20TH FEBRUARY.--From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as
+possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather
+soft, otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the
+westward, and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow
+belts of reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great
+satisfaction to learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A
+shallow creek appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide
+had expected to find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently
+drank up there, what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He
+showed us the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were
+made to feel, in common with the aborigines, those privations to which
+they are exposed by the white man's access to their country. On
+proceeding some miles further, our guide following down the channel, he
+at length appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe,
+on which Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and
+there, in fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in
+the attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wammerawa,
+the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and
+marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds may
+have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from the
+"balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan,
+Murrumbidgee, and Millewa; the former being a cane or bamboo, the latter
+a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found good
+grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was fringed
+with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA
+observed at Muda on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the
+spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the teams
+of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been damaged; the
+six others were brought up in the course of the evening. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 60 deg.; at 4 P. M., 103 deg.; at 9, 78 deg.;--with wet bulb, 68
+deg..
+
+21ST FEBRUARY.--The first thing done this morning was to send back cattle
+to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it might be
+repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the journey
+by 1 P. M. The barometer was going down at a rate which was alarming
+enough, considering what our position must have been there in a flood, or
+even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward with the
+light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 P. M. to
+"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again,
+he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden
+the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water
+that night, nor until we could reach the Barwan, then distant, I was
+quite sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude
+observed (30 deg. 19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back
+directions that the drays should at once halt, taking their places beside
+the leading dray, and that the cattle should be driven back in the
+morning to be watered at the last camp (Warranb), and then to return and
+follow in my track. Mr. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to
+serve out a week's rations to the party with the drays, and he returned
+to my camp by 2 A. M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the
+former messenger, rations for my party. Here we found the KERAUDRENIA
+INTEGRIFOLIA. Thermometer at sunrise, 70 deg.; at noon, 105 deg.; at 9,
+83 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+22D FEBRUARY.--My guide was now desirous that I should cross the
+Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more favourable
+for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by drawing
+lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would cross and
+impede my journey to the Barwan. There were the Castlereagh, Morissett's
+Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct, which it
+was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least fifty
+miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.]
+
+An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the
+necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in
+communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills which
+partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was
+Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that some
+flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we might
+therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie. This,
+with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made intelligible
+to our Barwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly. He took us
+through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water usually
+lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay happens to
+be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But the water in
+these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled into hard clay
+by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first become
+sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots, where
+nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are well
+known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and such
+places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by the
+most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can exist
+apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers. Cattle
+find these places and come from stations often many miles distant,
+attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus
+treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy
+the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the
+kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more
+disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain
+every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot"
+should appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually
+happened to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want
+of water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110 deg.. The store-
+keeper was taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and
+the fate of the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the
+sheep, which had not drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to
+me at that time. It may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at
+length saw before me large basins of water in the channel of the
+Macquarie, when I next approached the banks, after a journey at a good
+pace for six hours and a half. We had made it below the junction of
+Morissett's Ponds, and found that a recent flood had filled its channel
+with water. The natives dived into it to cure their headaches, as they
+said, and seemed to go completely under water, in order to take a cool
+drink. We had reached the united channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's
+Ponds, and were at an easy day's journey only distant from the junction
+with the BARWAN or "Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this
+river is indispensable amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not
+appear to know it to be the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to
+such rivers their proper names as early as possible after they have been
+ascertained, were it only to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves
+of the intelligence and assistance of the natives, in identifying the
+country by means of the published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to
+the natives as the Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wawill; and the lower
+part of the Macquarie, as the Wammerawa. The squatting system of
+occupation requires still more that the native names of rivers should be
+known to commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast
+extent, whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach
+or control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line
+the squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 110 deg.; at 4 P. M., 107 deg.;
+at 9, 89 deg.; --with wet bulb 72 deg..
+
+23RD FEBRUARY.--The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence of
+them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I had
+sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to send
+forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought me
+word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the
+morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him. They
+had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the water,
+as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was excessive,
+a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the banks of the
+Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus SCLEROLOENA was remarked;
+it was perhaps not distinct from S. UNIFLORA. The GOODENIA GENICULATA
+overran the ground, with its strawberry-like runners, and yellow flowers.
+Latitude, 30 deg. 12' 56" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 75 deg.; at noon,
+105 deg.; at 4 P.M., 94 deg.; at 9, 73 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+24TH FEBRUARY.--Some of the teams came up, having been out all night. The
+drivers brought me word that they had been detached at twilight to come
+six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could not see my
+track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks had strayed
+from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of delay by the
+bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey (thirteen
+miles) of the Barwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days, and
+really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers
+seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 80
+deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+25TH FEBRUARY.--In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the stray
+bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a bullock
+driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the track of
+the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at sunrise, 53
+deg.; at noon, 90 deg.; at 4 P.M., 94 deg.; at 9, 79 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 62 deg..
+
+26TH FEBRUARY.--Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only one of
+the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace
+twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the day; he
+said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in with. I
+blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him forthwith on
+foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we were doomed
+to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by carrying on the
+mapping of our survey, in order to make good our longitude at crossing
+the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+101 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62. deg.
+
+27TH FEBRUARY.--When the teams were about to be put to the drays this
+morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed the
+party until 10 A.M., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I
+reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a
+proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such
+unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground,
+having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about
+six miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and
+said they called that the "Barwan." As it was still a mere chain of
+ponds, though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel;
+he also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was
+convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the
+channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the
+junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it,
+however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after
+him, to rejoin the party.
+
+I this day gave "Yulliyally," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe,
+tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne,
+certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 62 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.M., 97 deg.; at
+9, 70 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+28TH FEBRUARY.--The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp at 6
+A.M., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost
+bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came
+upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a
+stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawa, on which I had been
+encamped, joined the Barwan, then on my right, within two miles of the
+spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr.
+Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and
+on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna,
+Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Barwan. I turned
+with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Barwan, and encamped
+thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which our
+exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a good
+current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like a
+river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good
+ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had
+been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the
+cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of
+Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which we
+had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot
+weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*] Thermometer
+at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 101 deg.; at 4 P.M., 100 deg.; at 9, with
+wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+[* Calotis SCAPIGERA (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus
+radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis
+robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.--A very
+distinct species. Habit of BRACHYSTEPHIUM SCAPIGERUM D. C.: but that
+ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in
+proportion to the size of the capitulum.]
+
+1ST MARCH.--When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher
+point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or
+bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we found
+it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot
+season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle
+stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary
+arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed quite
+unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length
+arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many
+rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final
+outlet or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch
+one might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the
+same river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood
+had gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast
+regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another
+instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more apparent to
+man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or attentively
+examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to him. The very
+slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains seems finely
+adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this part of the
+earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern coastranges
+were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of sustained
+current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such inclined
+channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread into a
+net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill
+lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous
+channel, would at once run off into the ocean.
+
+[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been
+wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as CARAWY, which the name
+resembles, means any deep water-hole.]
+
+In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route with
+our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have preferred,
+and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the known limits of
+this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which the route
+necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had not lost
+time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over very
+considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more desirable
+to any country we might discover, than one liable to be interrupted by
+flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of our drays, along
+the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a new and direct route
+from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by way of Bathurst; and
+afforded access to a vast extent of excellent pasturage on the Macquarie,
+along the western margin of the marshes, which land would, no doubt, be
+soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a climate, and where water is so
+frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found that the shortest line of
+route with such advantages would be more frequented than any longer line,
+possessing only the remote advantage of security from interruption by too
+much water. Thermometer at sunrise, 64 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 101 deg.; at 9, 81 deg.; with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+2ND MARCH--MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyabry, (Mr.
+Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays,
+although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better
+approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so
+attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without
+some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I sent
+some men to the last-mentioned work.
+
+I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the
+rivers Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains
+having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the
+Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to
+guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a
+distance of only seven miles beyond the Barwan there at the "Morella
+Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain
+seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were
+very fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously
+ascertained to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr.
+Lindley CAPPARIS MITCHELLII.[*] We found back from this camp the
+RUTIDOSIS HELYCHRYSOIDES of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72 deg.;
+at noon, 101 deg.; at 4 P.M.; 100 deg.; at 9, 78 deg.; and with wet bulb,
+62 deg..
+
+[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.]
+
+3D MARCH.--Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better
+approaches to the ford across the Barwan at Mr. Parnell's station.
+Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and
+Darling at our present camp to be 147 deg. 33' 45" E., by actual
+measurements connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr. Kennedy
+had chained the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had connected
+his work with latitudes observed at almost every encampment, and after
+determining at various points the magnetic variation, which appeared to
+be very steady, I made the latitude of this camp 30 deg. 6' 11" south.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 72 deg.; at noon, 99 deg.; at 4 P.M., 97 deg.; at
+9, 72 deg.; and with wet bulb, 65 deg.. The height above the sea level of
+the bed of the river here, the average result of eight observations, as
+calculated by Capt. King, was 415 feet.
+
+4TH MARCH.--The party moved off towards the ford over the Barwan at
+Wyabry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its
+junction with the Barwan; there, although the approaches had been well
+enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of
+which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft
+and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which earth
+was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived about
+noon at Wyabry, and by 2 P.M. the whole was safely encamped on the right
+bank of the Barwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from my son,
+commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most favourable
+account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of my proposed
+route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the hands of a
+native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr. Lawson, being
+then on his way down the river, had promised to send them to me, from a
+station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke, where it had been
+supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30 deg. 5' 41" S. On
+this northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in botany, and
+found some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of SENERIO
+BRACHYLOENUS D. C., a kind of groundsel; MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, loaded with
+purple blossoms, and a variety of HELICHRYSUM BRACTEATUM, somewhat
+different in the leaves from the usual state of the species. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 98 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+61 deg..
+
+Chapter III.
+
+THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED BY
+TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS OR
+SPRINGS CALLED "CARAWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH
+THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART OF
+SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY
+EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST
+RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY
+CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT BANK.--
+ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH GRASS ON
+THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN RECONNOITRE
+THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A NATIVE.--TWO
+NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH THE ASSEMBLED
+POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE TRIBES.--CORDIAL
+RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE
+NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE
+BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY, CATTLE
+MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DEPOT CAMP AT
+A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM
+SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.
+
+5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two natives,
+brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the Narran,
+which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles we
+passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the left,
+which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of conglomerate
+rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains of quartz
+cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become undulating ground as
+we proceeded northward, and the surface became firmer. At length the
+country opened into slight undulations, well clothed with grass, and good
+for travelling over, the soil being full of the same hard rock found on
+the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the lowest parts of that
+river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed to be but the
+decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles of quartz so
+thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places so thickly as
+to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses grew on those
+plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm undulating
+stony surface and open character of the country, where I had expected to
+see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight
+elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a
+name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations TOO LOW to
+be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of
+route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much
+novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The ANGOPHORA LANCEOLATA
+was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some
+very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the ACACIA
+STENOPHYLLA of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such profusion
+as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I supposed it
+was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another place many of
+the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and learnt from our
+guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat resembled that of the
+Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Munumula is the native name. The grasses
+comprised a great variety, and amongst the plants a beautiful little
+BRUNONIA, not more than four inches high, with smaller flower-heads than
+those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely at all lobed, and a hairy
+indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although the fruit had been
+gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown, was also here; and I
+saw one or two trees of a species of CAPPARIS. Mr. Stephenson found a
+great variety of new insects also.
+
+[* B. SIMPLEX (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque
+longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,
+bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]
+
+Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some verdant
+grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water; and here
+we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds were called
+"Carawy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to pass on
+towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed, twenty-five
+miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some natives running
+off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we should do them no
+harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake them. The
+undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and west in
+their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general course of
+the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in other
+parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the
+fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much
+resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these
+springs we found a new HELICHRYSUM.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61 deg.;
+at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 79 deg.;--with wet bulb,
+65 deg..
+
+[* HELICHRYSUM RAMOSISSIMUM (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde ramosum
+arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis acutis,
+capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri
+squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]
+
+6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the excessive
+length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(161/2 miles by
+latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a beautiful
+cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of fresh branches
+of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted home of the
+fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods of the
+acacia already mentioned (Munumula). The water was surrounded by fresh
+herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such the home
+whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable guides, I
+could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon trample
+these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding verdure
+and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured but acute
+guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid race.
+
+[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may LAUGH inwardly--
+conscience may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]
+
+All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our
+drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting
+before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be
+watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question; and
+this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward to ask
+if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly exhausted. The
+fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in the morning, after
+passing a night without water, had been adopted, and as, on the day
+before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of reaching my
+camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly directed them
+to be brought forward; but the consequence of this derangement was the
+death of one, and much injury to many others. This contretemps arose
+wholly from the guides not having been understood at the Barwan as to the
+real distance, and this we had calculated too surely upon. Latitude 29
+deg. 52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68 deg.; at noon, 96 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 83 deg.;--with wet bulb, 68 deg..
+
+7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had been
+watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 A. M. I left them in Mr.
+Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all the
+bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that had
+been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more. The
+guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had understood
+when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles from these
+springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the country to
+improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the most open parts of
+scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend clearly how desirable
+that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after travelling about seven miles,
+they pointed to a line of trees as the "Narran," beyond an extensive open
+country, which had a singular appearance from being higher than that we
+were upon. We crossed one or two slight elevations wholly composed of
+compact felspar in blocks--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of
+strata, whereof the strike always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious
+new plants and fruits appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of
+which was a very pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread
+over several yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an
+elongated egg; it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the
+natives "Doobah." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best
+roasted. As we approached the elevated country between us and the distant
+line of trees, we perceived that the vast level was covered with
+POLYGONUM JUNCEUM in a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as
+I had never seen elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called
+it, which looks ever quite dry and withered along the margins of the
+Darling. We had good reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we
+found amongst it pure water in great abundance, into which all our native
+companions immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This,
+they said, was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the
+name of Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps.
+They seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and
+pointed to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran
+was there. I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the
+nearest trees beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft
+mud, precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of
+bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now
+far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a
+position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the
+intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare
+materials for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a
+small clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did
+not encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by
+the westward, in which direction the open country extended to the
+horizon. The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by
+wet ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where
+horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had
+been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water
+until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.
+Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward to
+the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all
+the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays
+there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense
+heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the day,
+rose to 103 deg. in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp, 29
+deg. 45' 51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 97 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 97 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 57 deg.. The height
+of this camp above the sea, the average of five registered observations,
+is 442 feet.
+
+8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most extensive.
+Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual appearance
+there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet still
+the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between that
+slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been so
+scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great
+distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no
+longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I
+set the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the
+muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed
+it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,
+beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp
+came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before
+us, which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the
+southward, was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual
+rock, felspar; and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded
+the further progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended
+north-west, as most others did in this extensive basin; and this
+direction being nearly parallel to that of the coast ranges further
+northward, seemed to afford additional reason for expecting to find
+anticlinal and synclinal lines, and, consequently, rivers, much in the
+same direction. D'Urban's group, distant 150 miles lower down the
+Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock, exactly similar to this,
+exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into irregular polygons, some of
+the faces being curved. This rock is most extensively distributed in the
+interior of New South Wales. It was not until the evening of this day
+that the approach of the drays was announced, and then prematurely, the
+teams only having been brought forward to the water without them. So weak
+were the unfortunate animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the
+numbers, could they be made to draw the drays forward, for the short
+distance of eight miles; a distance which we had been given to understand
+was so much greater. Forward, all was most promising, and it may be
+imagined how bitterly I regretted the alteration of my original plan of
+equipment, which had reference to horses and light carts alone. A new
+species of ANTHISTIRIA occurred here, perfectly distinct from the
+kangaroo grass of the colony, very like APLUDA MUTICA, and remarkable for
+the smooth shining appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The
+TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its
+long silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very
+curious new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of CYPERUS; the TRICHINIUM
+LANATUM in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed
+(CALAMAGROSTIS of England), and which proved to be the little-known
+TRIRAPHIS MOLLIS. On the margin of the morass the DACTYLOCTENIUM
+RADULANS, spreading over the interstices, reminded the traveller of the
+grasses of Egypt; and, in stony ground near the morass, we observed the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA of Brown. Thermometer at sunrise, 66 deg.; at noon, 98
+deg.; at 4 P. M. 102 deg.; at 9, 81 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 74 deg..
+
+[* A. MEMBRANACEA (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine membranaceis
+foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis pedicellatis
+(masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, arista glaberrima gluma 3plo
+longiore.]
+
+[** K. LANOSA (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis
+cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]
+
+9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to return,
+and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be extremely
+useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went forward
+this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our interpreter,
+all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine reaches of water
+appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to the northward, but
+which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp, abruptly terminated
+like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it went to, they
+pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp as the final
+depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the contents of a
+river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate so hot and
+dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which led us nearly
+due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on a good
+gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing a
+slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the
+shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we
+again came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for
+about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and
+lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and
+with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent
+grass. The PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a
+grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of
+paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly
+for the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles.
+I counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass
+only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow
+back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a
+very open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any
+other part of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of
+the natives; and these children of the soil were doing every thing in
+their power to assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the
+white man's cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives
+during the whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and
+I to see them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and
+not at all unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce
+us to the inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us
+further. The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost
+to prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75 deg.; at noon, 99
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 105 deg.; at 9, 83 deg.; ditto with wet bulb, 75 deg..
+
+10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I
+continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but
+with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,
+through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the
+river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc.
+We were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no
+perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had
+examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and the
+dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and
+banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide
+said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp we
+kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.
+This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water our
+horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,
+under a temperature of 105 deg. in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently
+about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of
+perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on
+the level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very
+tired, however, and pointed to the large muscles of the RECTUS FEMORIS as
+if they pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the
+drays that had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring
+double teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity
+of our camp we found the TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, with heads of flowers
+nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near E. PULVERULENTA, but having
+more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall
+glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy KOCHIA was
+intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77 deg.; at
+noon, 102 deg.; at 4, 107 deg.; at 9, 76 deg.;--with wet bulb, 71 deg..
+
+[* H. GLAUCA (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis
+oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grosse serratis, racemis
+apice aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]
+
+[** K. VILLOSA (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus
+villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]
+
+11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives, the
+tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the stockman
+on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that they had been
+very useful. I this morning examined the country to the westward of the
+swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could pass, and so avoid much
+soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the watery Narran penetrated into
+the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting there little hollows full of
+rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so unwonted amongst rocks
+characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one little hollow, to the
+westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two men with a pickaxe and
+shovel to have continued it through, and so to have opened a new channel
+for the passage of the waters of the Narran swamp, into the dry country
+between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 55 deg.; at noon, 105
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the jaded
+bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses I might
+have continued the journey. The very extensive country before us, which
+appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and irrigated
+by little canals winding amongst POLYGONUM JUNCEUM. This open country
+appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles, thence to turn
+eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to the Barwan. I
+regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to admit of our
+tracing its limits to the eastward.
+
+This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he
+strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and
+Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river
+which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,
+almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was
+already on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his
+account of the rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged
+to depend, even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.
+
+This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two platforms,
+to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp, could be passed
+without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the drays. The
+sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS),
+found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen feet long, two
+feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long, fixed at each
+end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled a wooden
+railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry both
+wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was
+filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,
+alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to
+support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge
+or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51 deg.; at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 107 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.;--with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays trundled
+across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in the event of
+an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable on our return.
+Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing over a gravelly
+bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The drays were slow in
+arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft and hollow, but by
+sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on the Narran.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 71 deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 100 deg.;
+at 9, 71 deg.;--with wet bulb, 65 deg.. The height of this camp above the
+sea, according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.
+
+14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance, to a
+distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I
+intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five
+miles, that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work,
+might have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however,
+again occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now
+it was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It
+really seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on
+bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until
+9 A. M., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran, after
+travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found the
+fragrant JASMINUM LINEARE in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a bulb
+which proved to be the ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM of Brown; a shrub ten feet
+high, in fruit, the CANTHIUM OLEIFOLIUM of Sir William Hooker; a fine new
+CHENOPODIUM, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*]; and a
+hoary variety of ACACIA LEPTOCLADA, or perhaps a distinct species, having
+a good deal of the aspect of A. DEALBATA, but the leaves and glands
+nearer those of A. LEPTOCLADA, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 70 deg.; at noon, 103 deg.; at 4 P. M., 102 deg.; at 9, 81
+deg.;--with wet bulb, 75 deg..
+
+[* C. AURICOMUM (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,
+foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis
+lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris
+tomentosis.]
+
+15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding, that
+the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without great
+difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the
+drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a
+process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not
+until 1 A. M. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought
+to the camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the
+field of discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were
+unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive
+heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks
+unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter
+party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,
+leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depot, on
+some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29 deg. 38' 21"
+south. Thermometer at sunrise, 73 deg.; at noon, 84 deg.; at 4 P. M., 86
+deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 60 deg..
+
+16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend of the
+Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant grass. The
+drays arrived by 11 A. M. in such good order, that I was induced to try
+whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short journeys, the party
+could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I could leave the whole in
+one depot, to rest and refresh, while I took my intended ride forward.
+Latitude, 29 deg. 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 43 deg.; at noon, 86
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 87 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.;--with wet bulb, 55 deg..
+
+17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward as well
+as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the progress
+of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains were
+evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered wholly
+impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29 deg. 29' 11"
+S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 87 deg.; at 4 P. M., 91
+deg.; at 9, 62 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft ground;
+all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising
+ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,
+at a distance of 21/2 miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual
+conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch in
+bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly
+ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.
+Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked, upon
+the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris
+forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.
+From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a
+good direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony
+ground I found a new PITTOSPORUM five feet high, with long narrow leaves,
+in the way of P. ROEANUM and ANGUSTIFOLIUM, but distinct from both in the
+form of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29 deg. 25' 21". Thermometer at
+sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 90 deg.; at 4 P. M., 96 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+[* P. SALICINUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis
+acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus,
+fructibus subglobosis vix compressis.]
+
+19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank, our
+course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after travelling
+six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for the drays,
+but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward, and I
+contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again, by
+travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been marked
+out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found a
+fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five
+miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it,
+I returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude
+observed, 29 deg. 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 96 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we proceeded in a
+nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than we had recently
+traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found amongst much
+excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of Anthistiria
+appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort, although
+this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains westward
+of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of moisture. Here,
+however, this variety presented the same knotty head, where other grasses
+grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme eastern turn of the
+Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks appeared in the bed, as if
+the river was passing through the stock of the gravelly ridge I had
+visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found about the basin of
+the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much felspar, and having
+pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of the conglomerate in
+the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at the edges. Here the
+poor natives had been very industrious, as was evident from heaps of the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE, and of the same redstalked coral-like plant,
+also mentioned as having been observed in similar heaps, on the banks of
+the Darling, during my journey of 1835 (vol. i. p. 238). I now
+ascertained that the seed of the latter is also collected by the natives
+and made into a paste. This seed was black and small, resembling fine
+gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was sweet and pleasant to the
+taste, possessing a nutty flavour.
+
+The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in
+these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft
+smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil
+bore the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and
+amongst them those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with
+the prints likewise of other BIPEDS, such as emus and kangaroos, and also
+those of the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other
+animals all new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man
+alone were familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other
+animals, simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much
+afraid of us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed
+strange, that in a climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise,
+the circumstances of man's existence should be the most degrading.
+Latitude of our camp, 29 deg. 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55
+deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 65 deg.. The mean elevation above the sea of our camps thus far on
+the Narran, seven in number, was 477 feet; the bed of the river being
+about 15 feet lower.
+
+[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way To kailyards green, While faithless
+   snaws ilk step betray Whar she has been."   BURNS.]
+
+21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming
+favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some
+traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner
+Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded
+the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to his
+map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with gently
+sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances induced me to
+cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward, until meeting
+with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran, where we
+encamped in latitude 29 deg. 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.;
+at noon, 97 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.; ditto with wet
+bulb, 66 deg..
+
+22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the
+surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on
+Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded
+rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At
+one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a
+ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of
+compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which
+large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial decomposition
+of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them once more to the
+action of water. The force of those waters, however, had not been
+sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending right
+across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps, of a
+river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and terminating
+in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 98 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 66 deg.. Height above the
+sea, 515 feet, from eight observations.
+
+23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,
+soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,
+almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we pursued
+a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the Narran
+at 81/2 miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,
+especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small bush
+bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among the
+sedges by the river we found the KYLLINGA MONOCEPHALA; and, on the rich
+black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with
+large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small
+bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of
+Brown's SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, or a new species distinguished by its narrow
+sharp-pointed leaves. The LORANTHUS LINEARI. FOLIUS was growing on the
+rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by the
+parasitical ORANGE LORANTH.[*] Lat., 29 deg.1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,
+51 deg.; at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P. M., 99 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.;--wet bulb,
+63 deg..
+
+[* L. AURANTIACUS (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus,
+foliis oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve
+acuminatis glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio
+brevioribus ditrichotomis, floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis
+superne latioribus truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem
+geniculato, stigmate dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.]
+
+24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach the
+Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the
+Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to
+the northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn
+towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far
+from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary
+to descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn
+pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we
+had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low
+range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,
+covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller
+the most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached
+the Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had
+travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it
+was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the
+cattle should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to
+lose one day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals.
+Casuarinae now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks
+of the Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods
+we passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a
+different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the
+colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be a
+broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.
+We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,
+GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having
+long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*]
+The rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with
+yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed
+from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed
+amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,
+with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the
+bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.
+
+[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus
+pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]
+
+[** Loranthus LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus
+acutis carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus
+bifloris, calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6
+linearibus supra basin coalitis.]
+
+The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked
+Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29 deg. 6'
+33" S.; therm. at sunrise, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 74 deg.;
+ditto with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.
+Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate
+journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I
+found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its
+course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges
+on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came
+from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued
+northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed
+through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence descending
+in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs, and only
+reached the river after riding 21/2 miles in that direction. I saw a
+continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river
+bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where
+the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who
+did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from him,
+and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a
+beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on
+the bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back,
+until within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of
+the party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a
+species of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct.
+The teams brought the drays in, about 5 P. M.; one animal of all being
+missing. Therm. at sunrise, 72 deg.; at noon, 89 deg.; at 4 P. M., 91
+deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in search
+of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and proceeded
+along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the party, having
+found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late encampment. The
+natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having previously set fire to the
+grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their fires, and encamped on the
+river bank in lat. 29 deg. 1' 57" S.
+
+A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow
+portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of
+withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the ashes
+of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass
+(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but
+constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the
+only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired
+on our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to
+drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both
+these kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me
+one of their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum,
+and tied with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it
+carefully where he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47 deg.; at
+noon, 90 deg.; at 4 P. M., 95 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.;--with wet bulb, 60
+deg.. The mean height above the sea of the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th
+March, was 461 feet.
+
+27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,
+which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks after
+a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the
+vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought
+by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more
+decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses
+against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the
+plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew
+abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of
+the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the
+immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an
+infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes
+happened, other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me
+to a distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great
+novelty to us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long
+before we crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang
+fruit (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed
+that we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as
+the quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat.
+28 deg. 55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70 deg.; at noon, 90 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 89; at 9, 70 deg.;--with wet bulb, 61 deg..
+
+28TH MARCH.--At 2 A. M., loud thunder was heard in the south-west, where
+a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops of rain
+fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from S. W.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56 deg.. We proceeded, travelling chiefly amongst
+very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the westward of
+my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when on the
+other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its banks
+after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to place
+the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance, managed
+to prevent him from running away. He spoke only "Jerwoolleroy," a dialect
+which my native did not understand at all well. He told us, however, that
+this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to the Balonne. Upon the
+whole we gathered from him that neither that river nor the Bokhara was
+far from us. I endeavoured to convince him, by Youranigh's assurances,
+and our own civility to him, that we meant no harm to any natives, and
+were only passing through the country. He did not seem afraid, although
+he had never, until then, seen white men. We encamped near him. The river
+channel was very narrow, and contained but little water here-abouts. I
+understood from the native (through Youranigh) that the river here spread
+into various channels, and that "BARRO" was the name of a river beyond
+the Culg, which falls into it from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the
+lagoon on which we encamped after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near
+this camp we found a PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a
+SESBANIA near S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM
+AURICOMUM, formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.; at 4 P. M., 82 deg.;
+at 9, 61 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 56 deg..
+
+29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr. Kennedy
+forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a more
+direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied by one of
+the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He returned in
+about four hours, having found the river coming from the northward, and
+he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer at sunrise, 48
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 81 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.;--with wet bulb, 47 deg..
+
+30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at sunrise
+only 42 deg.. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on over
+fine grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At
+length, about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where
+there was one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but
+could only see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees
+running north. We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the
+Narran, after a journey of about eight miles.
+
+We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species of
+eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and other
+parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg.. Mean height of
+the camps of the 27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509
+feet.
+
+31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed across
+the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary to
+see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not
+of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,
+branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main
+channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it
+again. Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every
+respect the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by
+observing the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of
+the current. We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with
+some lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I
+wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the
+ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where was
+the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were heard
+immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh and then to
+me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other was a lad
+of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne (BALONGO) as
+quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was quite evident
+from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper native name,
+but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an article they very
+often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in speaking of the
+Barwan, they say "Barwango." I had nearly completed the usual short
+journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was unwilling to lose
+the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on under their
+guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for the camp.
+This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them Tooningora, nearly
+on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with ducks. We had
+passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native friends, and over
+a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from scrub. It was
+evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I continued to
+follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the party to encamp,
+in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and the river Balonne.
+After going forward thus about four miles, we saw five gins running off
+at a great distance across some open plains, apparently near the river.
+The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I requested him to assure
+them that the white men would do no harm, and to tell them not to run
+away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared to carry unseemly loads
+across their backs, dangling under large opossum-skin cloaks, and it was
+evident that these were mummied bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but
+had not before seen it. I had then but a distant view of these females,
+as they resumed their flight, and continued it until they reached woods
+bounding the plain on the westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great
+Balonne river ran parallel to our march westward, and there also,
+according to my guides, was "Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and
+which spot I most anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials.
+Still my guides led westward towards the woods, and as we approached
+them, the shout or scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan,
+follower of my camp, first drew my attention to a black phalanx within
+the forest, of natives presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my
+interpreter halted and remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on
+his reaching that body, the sound of gruff voices that arose from it
+strongly reminded me of Milton's description of Satan's army:
+
+"Their rising all at once was as the sound Of thunder heard remote."
+
+Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by the
+other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those fellows
+were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our footsteps to
+the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo. Our guide soon
+overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange natives, who, all
+curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they brought with them a lad
+named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and had visited many of our
+cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to Youranigh, who but very
+imperfectly understood the language of the rest. They seemed upon the
+whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food consisted of the fish of
+the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon, CUCUMIS PUBESCENS,
+which grew in such abundance, that the whole country seemed strewed with
+the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives eat great quantities, and
+were very fond. It is about the size of a plum only, and in the journal
+of my first interior journey (in 1831), is mentioned as a cucumber we
+were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude of camp, 28 deg. 38' 47" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 42 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 A. M.,
+still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne. On
+our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy hollows
+could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in due
+form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party to
+halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on the
+right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other
+women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared, formed a
+circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to me. I
+desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way across the
+Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb them, etc.
+When all was said that could be said, and I was about to return, one of
+the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he must have learnt
+at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I returned the
+compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave. Soon after, we
+arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river as I have
+seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a slight
+current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less elevated
+above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel surpassed
+that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.
+
+We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was
+"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the
+natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,
+having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the
+first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had
+gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where
+he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered
+his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's
+conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to
+go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe,
+to other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without
+claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at
+such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us
+strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts
+of civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather
+rare. He had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the
+danger of sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our
+introduction by him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the
+bullock-drivers, found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut
+the banks, and fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches,
+and earth, for the better passage of the drays; a work they completed
+before night. I rode about five miles beyond the river to the north-west,
+and met, first with a very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level
+with the plains, and apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this,
+a river or chain of ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained
+was called the Cawan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The
+country was rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees,
+and the plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the
+Balonne, 28 deg. 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 75
+deg.; at 4 P.M., 79 deg.; at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54 deg.. Height of
+the bed of the Balonne above the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average
+of three observations.
+
+2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning in
+good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little bridge
+we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place seemed to me
+so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find some of
+the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the natives on
+this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks made by white
+men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank of the river, and
+was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns," the other with
+"Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was really at or near
+the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell had crossed, and
+found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles north-west, I
+determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that river, taking my
+track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad lagoon.
+
+On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with hoop
+nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He returned
+accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin, who had
+been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his nets,
+and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct us to
+the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a
+detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a word
+of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to overcome
+the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives, and their
+shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become our guide.
+He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles from the
+Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service and true
+civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron tomahawk, and
+I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for him to keep. He
+then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five miles off. This
+river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed than, the one we
+had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a principal
+river, and really looked more important than the Barwan, except that its
+waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees overhang the banks,
+and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I should say that these
+and much sand were the chief characteristics of the Culgoa. There were no
+recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed that they did not much
+frequent that part of the river. The grass along the banks was very
+luxuriant. Latitude 28 deg. 31' 19" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 39
+deg.; at noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 46 deg.. The height of this camp above the level of the sea, being
+forty feet above the bed of the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four
+observations.
+
+3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the
+banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our
+heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,
+however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 35 deg.; at noon, 80 deg..; at 4 P.M., 77 deg.;
+at 9, 49 deg.; and with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the Culgoa
+upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending along the
+right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was favourable to
+our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in exploring that
+river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we had crossed
+the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the south, to this
+river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and Fort Bourke.
+That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable, had the rains
+set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over the dry, firm
+ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the left bank of
+the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season, indeed more
+conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had fallen at this
+time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern interior;
+but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for some
+degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the Commissioner of
+the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we should arrive at a
+better watered country.
+
+Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which grew
+luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us of the
+banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact counterpart,
+only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa was more
+easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles northward,
+I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found the river.
+We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch biting into
+the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached the Balonne Major,
+or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from the Minor Balonne,
+both of which we had already crossed, and which ran thus, as from our
+camp the lines of trees along each of the minor channels were distinctly
+visible.
+
+The character of these rivers had been described to me by Commissioner
+Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the drays came in,
+and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind, having been suddenly
+attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged in the survey of our
+route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had somewhat abated, but
+still this complaint, which we had attributed to it, had lately affected
+many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr. Kennedy. Latitude, 28
+deg. 27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 88 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.; with wet bulb, 47 deg..
+
+5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of
+the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an
+angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after
+passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded by
+a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and
+partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I
+found this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous
+course, impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got
+through it, only after contending with these impediments for three miles.
+The country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river,
+and I turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward
+two miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any
+river; but, on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was
+declining, and I turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction
+reached an extensive open forest, beyond which I saw at length the river
+line of trees. I continued to ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw
+our cattle grazing, and the tents, without having regained first, as I
+wished, my outward track. On the bank of the Balonne we found an
+apparently new species of ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish
+flowers, and in the scrub I passed through, in my ride, I found a
+CASUARINA, indeterminable in the absence of flowers or fruit. It produces
+a gall as large as a hazel nut. Thermometer at sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon,
+90 deg.; at 4 P.M., 94 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not proceed,
+as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep our
+account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much galled,
+and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not without
+some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching a point
+whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave the
+cattle to refresh in a depot on this fine river, which afforded an
+excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown
+regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously
+wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or
+Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part of
+the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the
+eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the
+Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of
+reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to
+the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I
+therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add
+in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,
+whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of
+encampment described.
+
+In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a
+broadleaved, white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,
+which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted
+species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New
+World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on EXOCARPUS
+APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and Frazer on
+Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.;
+at noon, 95 deg.; at 4 P.M., 96 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57
+deg.. Height above the sea, 497 feet.
+
+[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,
+fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos
+superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]
+
+7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I was
+informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud on
+the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was
+impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from
+having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our
+journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.
+Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest
+land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,
+even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got
+involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of
+E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees
+of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at
+an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the slopes,
+we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent, presenting a
+body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one other river of
+Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.
+
+This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor Balonne,
+came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe were heard
+in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly, having left us
+suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily ordered him away. I
+had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at night on the former
+occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of mischief, and could
+not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We desired no further
+intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with us did not
+understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose through
+that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my journey
+fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of this
+camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even now. I
+had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here, at a
+time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still
+uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled
+globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 97 deg.; at 4 P. M. 97 deg.;
+at 9, 69 deg.;-- with wet bulb 57 deg.. Height above the sea 634 feet.
+Latitude 28 deg. 23' 59" S. (Camp III.)
+
+8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the river
+woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch, at
+first containing much water, and coming from the north, was on our right
+for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks of three
+horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if proceeding
+first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the river became
+dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw about a mile to
+the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of water on a
+level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of emerald
+green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a longer
+journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite water in
+its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy margin we saw
+still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to drink. The
+scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain. The ACACIA
+PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, and others,
+gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance of water about, all hands
+considered this a very fine country. At sunset, thunder-clouds gathered
+in the S. W., and at about 7 P. M. the storm reached our camp,
+accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the S. E. The lightning
+was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily. By 8 P. M. it was
+over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of Regulus, by which
+the latitude was found to be 28 deg. 17' 8" S. (No. IV.) Thermometer at
+sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 91 deg.; at 4 P. M. 94 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.;--
+with wet bulb 63 deg..
+
+9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum, obliged me
+to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had already got
+further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river spread into a
+broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers having taken no
+notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where the carts had
+been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry the loads to firm
+ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this swamp for many miles,
+I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed the burning fires of
+natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on trees about. At
+length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the main river, where
+it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and sweeping round
+majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after a long journey.
+The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large fishes in it;
+ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black swans. This
+surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that such an
+enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else in New South
+Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The Anthistiria grew
+abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude, 28 deg. 13' 34" S.
+and marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 97 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+
+10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,
+fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the
+river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris
+scrubs were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open
+and firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of
+large Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and
+gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a
+soft red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by
+far the best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft
+red sand being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as
+mud. At length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious
+lagoon, extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift
+marks, that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it
+as it trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about
+that part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods.
+That lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water
+could never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon
+dried up, which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant
+in the bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA
+MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 99 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 97 deg. at 9, 66 deg.;--with wet bulb, 58 deg..
+
+[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,
+stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi
+angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-
+pubescentitomentosis, bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis
+setaceis, legumine sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but
+flowers much smaller, in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects
+with the short character of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is
+not articulated on the footstalk, and the stipules exist.]
+
+11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right
+hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully
+falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,
+at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.
+This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered
+with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being
+near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true
+aboriginal name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more
+readily adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate
+amongst rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way
+about to my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay
+across my intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon
+the banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,
+having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very
+uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had
+once been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the
+swamp, the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the
+opposite direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently
+dry. On crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware
+that it is usually at acute angles in a river's course that such
+overflowings break out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn
+eastward, and even to the southward of east before I could find the river
+again. At length we came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand,
+where the waters took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents.
+I was now very desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to
+rest and refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This
+place did not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well
+tasted, and the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the
+natives, or by accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of
+the Balonne, and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO
+PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader
+leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of
+ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 102
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 104 deg.; at 9, 69 deg.; with wet bulb, 62 deg..
+Average height above the sea, of camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.
+
+[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse
+sinuatoserratis integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque
+glaberrimis.]
+
+12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour, and
+soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water and came
+from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that had for
+some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes that this
+river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it
+maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of
+water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the
+course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of
+the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,
+consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have
+been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the
+same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite
+bank, and at once selected the spot for a depot camp, which we
+established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down
+the river. It was, in fact, a tete-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage
+which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in
+latitude 28 deg. 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68 deg.; at noon, 104
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 74 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with
+a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the
+river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my
+hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the
+stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of
+all in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a
+pair of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47
+deg.; at noon, 100 deg.; at 4 P. M., 101 deg.; at 9, 67 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 62 deg..
+
+15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in the
+direction of 3311/2 deg., my intended route, and he returned about 10 P.
+M., having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right
+when about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the
+whole, I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to
+travel north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general
+course of this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest
+to higher ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68 deg.; at noon, 104 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 103 deg.; at 9, 72 deg.;--with wet bulb, 67 deg..
+
+16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting
+water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of
+infantry than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded
+chiefly with water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were
+thus prepared to pass several nights without requiring other water than
+that we carried with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the
+scrubs, and reach, and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great
+basin. Our first day's progress, being rather experimental, did not
+extend above ten miles. I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse,
+and exchange him for a better, as our load of water was heavy. The day
+was very sultry. Thermometer 105 deg. Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had
+passed over ground more open than I expected, but by no means clear of
+scrubs. Thermometer, at sunrise, 64 deg.; at 4 P. M., 105 deg.; at 9, 71
+deg.;--with wet bulb, 67 deg..
+
+17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being my
+own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got
+forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they
+could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none
+was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,
+and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;
+and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar
+indication of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the
+white-barked gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of
+river trees, we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After
+completing about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses,
+where there was a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from
+our stock. The mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at
+all higher than our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore,
+not improbable that we might meet with some other channel or branch of
+that prolific river. After resting two hours we continued, passing
+through woods partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub.
+Towards the end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good
+grass, and having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of
+the character of the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very
+large kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks
+numerous. We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a
+grassy spot surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA
+of Banks, and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable
+whiteness appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which,
+on very close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On
+the plains the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose
+from its very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 71 deg.; at 9 P. M, 68 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to
+specimens of this brought to England:--
+
+"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell (or
+rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does not allow me
+to say much about the insect by which they are formed. It is an extremely
+beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I have yet seen, and is, I
+have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It is of a very peculiar form,
+resembling a very delicate, broad, and flattened valve of a bi-valve
+shell, such as the genus Iridina, the part where the hinge is being a
+little produced and raised, and forming the cover of the coccus which
+secretes the beautiful material just in the same unexplained way as the
+scale insects form the slender attenuated scales beneath which they are
+born. I could not discover any insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas
+Mitchell's production in a state sufficient to determine what it really
+is, as I only found one or two exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up
+insects. It is extremely brittle, and looks more like dried, white,
+frothed sugar than any thing else."]
+
+18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N. N. E.
+direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed that
+water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the other
+horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I found
+some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and which
+evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were then dry.
+Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall of rain
+water would remain there some time. On riding two miles beyond, in the
+same direction, I found open forest land only. The country was well
+covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We again proceeded
+north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was, however, only soft
+red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses drawing the
+watercart.
+
+On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different kind of
+country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or still more
+loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance, and the
+trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly. Instead of
+grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I
+afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRA), and one small, shrubby, brown
+bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike
+leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the
+firstmentioned plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in
+passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some
+birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They
+descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and
+seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp one
+fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my
+whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as
+those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and
+dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,
+especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the
+Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the
+DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the
+sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them
+elsewhere. The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much
+distressed. I continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a
+scrub in a clay hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country
+with more of the soft red sand. The people with the cart could not
+overtake me, and I returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I
+determined to encamp at some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our
+line, in latitude, 27 deg. 43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the
+barometer, we had not ascended higher than our depot camp on the river,
+at a distance of nearly forty miles from it. I had just quitted my
+horse's back, and had resolved to return, when two horsemen were seen
+approaching along our track. They were two of our party come from the
+depot to bring me a despatch, which had been forwarded by Commissioner
+Wright, communicating the news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port
+Essington, and enclosing the Gazette with his own account of his journey.
+Thus it became known to us that we could no longer hope to be the first
+to reach the shores of the Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+62 deg.; at 4 P. M., 93 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--with wet bulb, 64 deg..
+
+19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode forward
+along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me, until the
+cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite exhausted by the
+heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 86
+deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having been
+ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depot, I sent our tired
+animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited quantity
+of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh horses about
+half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of another light
+cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage towards the head
+of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.; at noon, 95; at 4 P.
+M., 93 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 58 deg..
+
+21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 A. M. The morning was cloudy, for
+the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three or four
+days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have explored
+by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great river,
+the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I had
+just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended, had it
+been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground, whatever
+it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 65 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 77 deg.;
+at 9, 60 deg.; --with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the
+temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial
+column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated party
+engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of our
+late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the colony
+lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.
+direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as
+he went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,
+during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a new
+creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr. Bentham has
+named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 77 deg.; at 9, 61 deg.;--with wet bulb, 56 deg.. Mean
+elevation of this camp above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above
+the river, 623 feet.
+
+[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis
+pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis
+elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus
+approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine
+molliter villoso.]
+
+[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis
+subangulatis, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late
+obovatis summisve linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis
+v. oblique mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis
+uninervibus tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris
+solitariis subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus
+truncatis, legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and
+possibly a mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably
+broader, and the inflorescence different.]
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY--LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS AND
+DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--DISCOVER A RIVER
+JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE THE
+BALONNE UPWARDS.--FINE RIVER SCENERY.--VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO THE
+EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.--TRIBUTARY FROM THE NORTH-WEST--
+AND RICH PLAINS.--TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.--EXCELLENT COUNTRY FOR
+GRAZING PURPOSES.--MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE NORTHWARD.--NATIVES
+AT OUR CAMP.--ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.--MOUNT INVITING.--ASCEND MOUNT RED
+CAP.--RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.--
+THE BOTTLE TREE.--ASCEND MOUNT BINDANGO.--DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER
+"AMBY."--DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF A CAMP.--RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-
+WEST.--ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.--A GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND
+FOR THE CARTS.--SMALL RIVER DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF
+WATER.--THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS ON OPEN FLATS.--DISCOVER THE RIVER
+MARAN.--SELECT A POSITION FOR A DEPOT.--RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE
+NORTHWARD.--RIDE INTO THE WESTERN INTERIOR.--ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.--
+EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--WATER NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.--RETURN TO THE
+CAMP.--ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE EASTWARD.--VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS
+OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.--CAMP VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY
+ABSENCE.--ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.--HIS
+ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."--VARIOUS
+PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--DEPOT CAMP
+ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.
+
+23RD APRIL.--Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight men,
+two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three light carts
+with provisions for ten weeks--determined, if possible, to penetrate
+northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the division of
+the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view, to trace
+upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to the north-
+westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west, and thus
+acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the watershed
+towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to follow my track
+with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out on Monday, the
+4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks' rest.
+
+The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or
+hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each side.
+I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river.
+Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub;
+but came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque.
+Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm
+clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the
+river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27 deg. 56'
+12" S. There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long
+islands of sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The
+bed, in most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous
+conglomerate, or clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass
+was excellent and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick
+scrub crowned these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my
+examining the other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the
+ENOCARPUS SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the
+beautiful parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of
+Eucalyptus. Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg.; at 9 P. M., 47 deg.;--with
+wet bulb, 41 deg.. [* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman
+numerals those afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track
+with the main body.]
+
+24TH APRIL.--Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction was
+N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild and very
+fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of water, in
+wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that sometimes
+moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines were wild,
+the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still inclined
+as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted finely with
+erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with perpendicular
+rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown, contrasted
+most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey driftwood, blue
+water, and verdure by its margin; all these again--grass, verdure,
+driftwood, and water--were so opposed to the dark hues of the Casuarinae,
+Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a Gains-borough, might
+there have found an inexhaustible stock of subjects for their pencil. It
+was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.
+
+"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air, And scarce a human image
+plac'd he there."
+
+May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we may
+also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their
+sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be
+brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine
+perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy
+margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by scrub. At
+length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see along
+each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up that
+nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of
+natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was
+grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain."
+This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but
+finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at
+length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I
+could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river;
+marks of high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other.
+It might, and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but
+this seemed too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed
+it, to look for the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain
+bounded by trees that looked like those along the river. No time could be
+spared for further reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for
+the nearest part. My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in
+following the various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen
+miles beyond the point where I met with this river, that I reached the
+bank of the other, at a spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had
+quitted it. This was only accomplished at forty minutes after 4 P. M.,
+when we had travelled twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was
+likely, if followed by Mr. Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay
+and inconvenience, I resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the
+subject, explaining how he could most readily fall into my track by
+crossing the other channel, quitting first the other track, at a spot to
+be marked by Graham, who took the letter. Nevertheless, it had been
+imperative on me to follow it up as I had done; because, whether as a
+separate tributary or an ana-branch only, the right bank was likely to
+suit us best, provided only that water could have been found in its bed.
+Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of Linnaeus, with its spikes
+of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM.
+Lat. 27 deg. 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at 9 P. M., 59
+deg.;--with wet bulb, 56 deg..
+
+25TH APRIL.--
+
+"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers, And heavily in clouds brings
+on the day."
+
+A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a
+contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy, and
+Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of the
+other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my
+track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in
+an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and
+buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks on
+trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to
+examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the
+day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and,
+in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible
+difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+65 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P. M., 66 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 63 deg.. Mean height above the sea, 586 feet.
+
+26TH APRIL.--Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depot camp at 1 P.
+M. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind from the
+west arose about 3 P. M. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63 deg.; at noon, 78
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 78 deg.; at 9, 56 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+27TH APRIL.--The party set off early. We found that a river from the
+north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from
+the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I
+determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and
+water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of the
+first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after
+following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode
+northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten
+minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I
+could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27 deg. 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P. M., 72 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 55 deg..
+
+28TH APRIL.--Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river bed
+like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here broke
+through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S. W.,
+it seemed probable that the general course from above might be parallel
+to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches large,
+full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant
+grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered with
+the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a delicate
+grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also here
+observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W., and
+whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel
+northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again,
+cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its
+course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have
+rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during
+the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had
+been in England during the same month. Latitude 27 deg. 32' 37" S. The
+direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long
+sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered
+available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface of
+the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river,
+attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor
+features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they
+had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 69 deg.; at 9, 48 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+29TH APRIL.--The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into
+gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent me
+from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or
+pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy
+margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all
+seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I
+was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress
+along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I
+could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in
+a gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge
+like that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday,
+doubtless the product of the late rain, and probably from these clay
+gullies. After a circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow
+over-looking much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies,
+but could easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we
+encamped as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27
+deg. 28' 27". One of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree,
+discovered vast plains in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river
+line pursuing a northerly course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung
+over what he supposed to be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 63 deg.; at 9, 47 deg.; with wet bulb, 44 deg..
+
+30TH APRIL.--Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came upon
+open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the rugged
+gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north, with
+sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all
+fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the
+river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a
+high scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large
+lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see.
+It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native
+huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27 deg.
+20' S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our
+youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 65 deg.; at 9, 43 deg..
+
+1ST MAY.--On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the river,
+we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground broken
+into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin of
+this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage
+elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it,
+we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and
+could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards
+northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains,
+bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw
+still the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the
+cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us
+improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward,
+with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W.
+From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains
+extending before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low
+rise to the N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each
+containing deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the
+river; we encamped near it, in latitude 27 deg. 15' 4" S. As we
+approached this spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then
+running off-- Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of
+his own. I endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they
+made off, setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of
+these parts might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they
+would at length come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+67 deg.; at 9, P. M., 48 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+2D MAY.--There was a decided difference between the river we were now
+upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by
+which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small
+tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the
+westward, while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst
+plains, reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was
+the principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather
+difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses
+lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the
+water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable
+breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the woods
+back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's bed,
+but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we could
+have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river, passing close
+to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next change of the
+river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the receding bergs
+guided me, even when only seen at a considerable distance, in shaping my
+course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I travelled far along a
+grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing water like chrystal,
+and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western shore consisted of
+shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated on its eastern
+extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N. W., we at
+length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous
+channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more
+like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus
+waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of
+the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just
+beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were
+erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open
+iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather
+peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also
+undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we
+were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77 deg., also a hill
+to the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333
+deg.), he saw also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 62 deg.; at 9 P. M 57 deg.; mean height above the sea, 694 feet.
+
+3RD MAY.--Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and we
+perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the morning.
+Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party bearing a green
+branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to our tents.
+One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite absorbed in
+observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently overcome all
+their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and without any
+kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With steady fixed
+looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances, what passed
+in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages. On the
+contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look of good
+sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence, could we
+but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor did they show
+any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the smallest of which
+might have been of use to them. There must be an original vein of mind in
+these aboriginal men of the land. O that philosophy or philanthropy could
+but find it out and work it! Yuranigh plied them with all my questions,
+but to little purpose; for although he could understand their language,
+he complained that they did not answer him in it, but repeated, like
+parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same manner, they followed me
+with a very exact repetition of English words. He, however, gathered from
+them that the lake was called "Turanimga," this river "Cogoon," a hill to
+the eastward "Toolumba," etc. They had never before seen white men, and
+behaved as properly as it was possible for men in their situation to do.
+At length we set out on our journey, and in mounting my horse, which
+seemed very much to astonish them, I made signs that we were going to the
+mountains.
+
+Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The deep
+ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was small, in
+comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed to say we
+had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers." Malga
+scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of these
+forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that impervious
+sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making straighter
+cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was, however, now
+rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a tributary to
+the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us, pursued a
+tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29 deg. and 27
+deg., coming round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last
+three days we had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of
+north-west; in which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect
+that we should soon find mountains.
+
+As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded, with
+Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw through
+the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I
+perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the
+south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the
+northeast, like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight
+to me then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west,
+the object of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had
+before seen these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still
+undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this
+hill Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from
+its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was
+felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat.
+27 deg. 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.;
+at 9 P. M., 45 deg.;--with wet bulb, 43 deg..
+
+4TH MAY.--An Australian morning is always charming,--amid these scenes of
+primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or GYMNORHINA, the
+organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller bird, whose notes,
+resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the only sounds that
+met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such sounds in other
+climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning in this. "The
+rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the perfume of the
+shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and the tints and
+tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The light red tints
+of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the white stems of
+the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early morning, still
+slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in the most
+pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally fine, from
+the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate willow-
+like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees, the
+mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there is
+a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most
+brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter
+morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are
+equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the
+savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from
+thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence.
+
+Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had seen
+whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found myself
+on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest, so that
+I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges clothed with
+dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and descended towards a
+fine open country, on which pigeons were numerous, and traces of natives.
+It was also sloping to the northward, and I had no doubt that we had
+passed into a valley which I had observed yesterday from Mount First
+View, and had supposed it contained a larger river. In the open ground, I
+found a small rocky knoll which I named Mount Minute. From its summit, I
+recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing 128 deg. 30'. We next passed
+through some scrub, and came to a hollow full of Acacia pendula.
+Following this down we arrived at a chain of ponds, and these led to an
+open grassy valley, in which we found our old friend, the river, still
+pursuing, steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along the bank, for a
+mile or two, we found that these now consisted of fine open forest flats;
+and at length encamped on the margin, after a journey of about twelve
+miles. Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite bank, first standing
+in mute astonishment, then running away. I held up a green bough, but
+they seemed very wild; and, although occasionally seen during the
+afternoon, none of them would approach us. We found on the banks of this
+river, a purple- flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*] Lat. 26
+deg. 57' 39" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 70 deg.; at
+9, 37 deg.;--with wet bulb, 34 deg..
+
+[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis
+alternis oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo
+longioribus, floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.]
+
+5TH MAY.--The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession,
+colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19 deg. E.,
+yet the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open
+air, seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere,
+extreme cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So,
+also, in the opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so
+accustomed to a higher temperature than 100 deg. F., that any degree
+under that felt refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the
+little river was still very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks
+at the westerly bends; from which side it was also joined by a small
+tributary, with ponds and hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of
+the POLYGONUM ACRE. Still, however, the main channel could be
+distinguished from these, and the open forest flats along its banks
+became more and more extensive and open as we ascended this channel,--
+leading so directly where we wished to go.
+
+Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub,
+but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with
+callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through.
+I rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from
+Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be
+removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond,
+there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of
+felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular
+polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and
+W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26 deg. 54' 16" S. It was only
+during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any
+indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than
+that of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the
+difference was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or
+seven millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the
+sea being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19 deg.; at 4 P. M., 67
+deg..
+
+6TH MAY.--The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the slopes less
+abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a mixture of sand, at
+a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it occupied a section of
+considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards between bank and bank.
+On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest land, Youranigh drew my
+attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of trees, which he showed me
+had been deposited there by floods. As they were of a growth and size
+quite disproportioned to other trees there, I was convinced that they
+were the debris of floods; and, consequently, that a vast body of water
+sometimes came down this channel. This native was taciturn and observant
+of such natural circumstances, to a degree that made his opinion of value
+in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which of two channels, that
+might come both in our way, might be the main one; thus my last resource,
+when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el parecer," as they say in Spain,
+of this aboriginal, and he was seldom wrong. At length, the cheering
+expanse of an open country appeared before us, and a finely shaped hill,
+half-covered only, with bushes. On reaching an elevated clear part, I saw
+extensive downs before me. The river turned amongst woods to the
+eastward, and I continued on our route to the north, sure of meeting with
+it again, as some fine forest ridges hemmed in the valley to the
+eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned (which I named Mount
+Inviting), there was a curious red cone some miles to the westward,
+crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to plant my theodolite.
+After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of Acacia pendula
+which gradually changed to an open forest, within which I met with a
+chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26 deg. 46' S. I immediately set
+out, with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red Cap, distant from
+our camp about six miles. This little red cone had a very singular
+appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark tinted scrub of
+flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of which the light
+and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy plain. I found the
+red rock to be the common one of the country, in a state of
+decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal, whose tracks
+had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling us to lead our
+horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an extensive view of
+the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood to the verge of
+the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of picturesque form,
+and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the direction whence we had
+come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more continuous ridges; and,
+towards the extremity of them, I could just recognise Mount First View,
+this being one of the distant cones I had seen from it. I took as many
+angles as the descending sun permitted, and then retraced our horses'
+tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at 9 P. M., 47
+deg.. Height above the sea, 747 feet.
+
+7TH MAY.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open
+forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula,
+in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward, now
+anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we
+found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds
+skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my
+ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge.
+From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little
+wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the
+centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good
+pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to
+follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from the
+west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open downs,
+and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in neither of
+which could we find any water, and had consequently to return to the last
+of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country towards
+the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26 deg. 42' 27" S., thankful
+that we had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and to
+discover so fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+8TH MAY.--This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21 deg. in my
+tent, a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen
+indicated from my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which
+was not frozen, neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in
+splendour; pigeons cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods.
+The business of the day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine
+open country to the westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for
+a higher branch of the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region
+could not be deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen
+of the range to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E.
+in about two hours we came upon the identical river we had so long
+followed up. It was accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had its
+rounded bergs; reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left bank.
+Crossing it I rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs, in
+hopes to obtain a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found that
+to be impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an
+elevated north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it beheld
+the finest country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A champaign
+region, spotted with wood, stretching as far as human vision, or even the
+telescope, could reach. It was intersected by river lines from the north,
+distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass arose in the
+midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W. and N. E.
+direction, as to deserve the name of a range.
+
+A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S.
+E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that
+variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks
+of a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole
+country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton
+Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an
+elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend
+the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to near
+the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by
+rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear
+leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I
+was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater, although
+the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes there were
+different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me, seemed
+chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by no
+means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in
+Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around
+them. Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The
+trunk bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the
+diameter at the ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches
+above. These were small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole
+tree looked very odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that
+I was convinced this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A
+still more remarkable specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in
+the apex of a basaltic peak, in the kind of gap of the range through
+which we passed on the 15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying
+drawing.]
+
+These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like
+hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*]
+Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the
+rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly
+covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even
+after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau,
+so thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward
+towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down than
+that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the Cogoon, I
+passed between the two summits, and found a good open passage to the
+westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at noon,
+70 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 30 deg.. Height above the sea 1043
+feet.
+
+[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of
+Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with
+respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it
+more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These
+are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate,
+mucronate, smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and
+lined with a thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also
+closely covered with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold
+the seeds together firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the
+upper half of the seed, whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining,
+smooth, and marked with a brown nipple, the remains of the foramen.
+Within the primine lies the bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite
+loose, and seems as if it were independent of the primine. Eventually the
+end of the thin brittle primine breaks like an eggshell and the secundine
+falls out. The seeds themselves, remaining attached to each other and to
+the follicle, resemble six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half
+a dozen brown eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young
+have escaped through the point.
+
+Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir Henry T. De la Beche,
+as president of a Society which has greatly encouraged him in his
+Australian researches; and in honour of a science which has occasionally
+thrown some light on his dark and difficult path. It may be
+scientifically described as follows:--
+
+DELABECHEA.
+
+CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ...
+STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longe stipitati,
+intus stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili
+cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita,
+inter se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINA laxa, tenui, fragili,
+apice foramine incrassato notata, SECUNDINA crustacea, demum libera
+chalaza magna circulari notata. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria.
+
+DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS.
+
+ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM album, laxum,
+mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate) maximis faciem
+internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis medullaribus tenuibus
+equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata, integerrima, in
+petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia, subtus pallida et
+quasi vernice quadam cinerea obducta. INFLORESCENTIA axillaris,
+trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque
+tomentosus.
+
+The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is soft, and
+brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very large
+tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half across;
+they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When boiling water is
+poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly, resembling tragacanth,
+is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass; iodine stains it brown, but
+not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No doubt the nutritious quality
+of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is apparently of the same
+nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree of Sierra Leone
+(STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA).
+
+It is not a little remarkable that the barrel-like form of the trunk
+should be almost exactly paralleled by another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA
+VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It
+seems, however, that a tendency to a short lumpish mode of growth is
+common among the order, as is indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which
+is almost as broad as it is long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-
+Cottons of tropical America.--J. L.]
+
+9TH MAY.--The thermometer stood at 19 deg. in my tent this morning, yet
+no ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that
+branch of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track
+for Mr. Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about
+two miles to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a
+trench cut across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a
+letter for Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour
+which might have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our
+track from the south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the
+direction of the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a
+due north line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for
+our river, as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and
+the woods quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The
+watercourse, soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and
+these at last were found to contain no water, when we had completed our
+day's journey. Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still
+distinguish my rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the
+general direction of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W.
+We were still much to the southward of the line so observed,
+apprehending, as I did think then, that some tempting plains might take
+us too far along some western tributary. Riding in search of water, I
+perceived a column of smoke to the northward; and, taking the party in
+that direction, we found, in the first valley we fell in with, a chain of
+ponds, and in one of these water enough for our use, whereupon I gladly
+encamped. This day we discovered a new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark in
+small angular pieces.[*] Latitude, 26 deg. 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4
+P. M., 74 deg.; at sunset, 63 deg.. Height above the sea, 1299 feet.
+
+[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis
+breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis
+reticulatovenosis, nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris
+axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.]
+
+10TH MAY.--Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land. The
+sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the open
+country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the scenery,
+and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a level
+woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country from
+any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is every
+thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water, when in
+the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went forward this
+morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of our friendly
+river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some of its highest
+sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain before us,
+over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a dry bushy
+hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have encamped, I
+perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of it, which
+was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more readily I
+got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down. This,
+opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The
+welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the water-
+course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains, gracefully
+fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I crossed a bare
+grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw luxuriant white
+trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same colour (PSITTACUS
+GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water, beside which we
+encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a beautiful Loranthus,
+which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly discovered by the
+indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now described by Sir William
+Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9,
+38 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 34 deg..
+
+[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis
+oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis
+tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis
+axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis
+nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis
+linearibus.--Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were
+subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.]
+
+11TH MAY.--I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with axes, and
+one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with thick scrub
+interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way almost any where.
+I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on throwing down a few
+of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view over the country to the
+northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain. Beyond these, valleys,
+also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one side to the S. E., on
+another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a rather elevated
+tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain with a range just
+dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley descending towards the N.
+W., seemed to me to be the head of a river likely to pass through a
+remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the view did not extend. To
+the westward a woody, and rather level country appeared, from which I
+thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs between them, descending
+towards the N. W. river.
+
+Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my
+theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise,
+that the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I
+stood, and that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still,
+the only greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due
+north. Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass
+through? Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern
+and southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident
+from columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral
+ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward. That
+was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found an
+interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I
+resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the
+remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them much
+resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and
+returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found
+eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my
+absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a tomahawk
+to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little could be
+understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his. We did,
+however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned from, was
+"Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyego; and the
+ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped, "Tagando;" all very
+good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at once in my notes and
+map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre, and had a few feathers
+of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their foreheads and beards.
+These simple decorations gave them a splendid holiday appearance, as
+savages. The trio who had visited us some days before, were all
+thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and their white teeth,
+constantly visible, shone whiter than even the cockatoo's feathers on
+their brows and chins. Contrasted with our woollen-jacketted, straw-
+hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care, it seemed as if nature
+was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of the sons of art. Sun
+never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than these children of nature
+appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine powerful fellow, whose voice
+sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if his very whisper might be heard
+half a mile off. The old man remained by our fire all night; the others
+who, as I understood, were all his sons, had departed about 11 P. M.,
+having left their gins in the vicinity. Thermometer, at sunrise, 22 deg.;
+at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 59 deg.; at 9, 35 deg..
+
+12TH MAY.--I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river
+flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount
+Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found
+the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a
+river, with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short
+way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from
+one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from
+which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This water
+was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to which
+I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to
+expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.;
+at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 59 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with wet bulb, 51
+deg.. Height above the sea, 1168 feet.
+
+13TH MAY.--I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party
+crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet
+above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy
+downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two knolls
+projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode to
+one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was the
+first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from
+their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyego, which I had not leisure to examine then, also
+consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one
+hundred yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with
+trees wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely,
+CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next
+descended to a separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the
+north-west. Instead of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been
+doing, and finding them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main
+channel, we were now to follow one downwards, with the prospect of
+finding it to increase as we proceeded. The relief from the constant
+apprehension of not falling in with water was great, as each day's
+journey was likely to show additional tributaries to our new found river,
+and, of course, to augment the supply. The old native at Tagando, had
+pointed much to the north-west, frequently repeating the word "MARAN;"
+whether that was, or what was, the name of this river, remained to be
+ascertained. A sweet breeze from the N. W. met us as we descended the
+slopes, and thus it was that white men first passed in that direction,
+"AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA." Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at
+noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P. M., 64 deg.; at 9, 43 deg.. Height of camp above
+the sea, 1226 feet.
+
+14TH MAY.--The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I
+crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the
+country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the
+time I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap.
+We passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we
+had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before
+me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in
+that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass,
+and wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me,
+however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had
+thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been
+called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in
+advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went
+forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We
+found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which
+was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all
+to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to
+my native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the
+tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He
+handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to examine
+my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that convinced
+him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the river was
+called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then, for the
+first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that this
+might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu as
+civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I
+perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing
+more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild
+tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the
+tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a thought
+which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart upon our
+goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to desist from
+his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way, contrive to cheek
+the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a loud whisper
+of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was no music in
+this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous sandstone,
+whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the eastward. A
+gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which was steep
+towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone) afforded me a
+view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about it. I
+perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the country
+was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed marked out
+by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and watercourses
+fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still the
+country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills,
+clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and
+dells between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot
+of the finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of
+route, to the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we
+wanted water, but on following a little channel about a mile downwards,
+we found in it a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further
+down this channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of
+my newly discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I
+was almost convinced that it would have brought me into this very
+country, had I come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26 deg. 17' 8" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 35 deg.; at 4 P. M., 80 deg.; at 7 P. M., 71
+deg.; at 9, 48 deg.. Height above the sea, 1150 feet.
+
+15TH MAY.--My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning, to
+natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp. Some
+time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped, with
+head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside my
+after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big
+savage of yesterday.
+
+Hamlet might here have exclaimed--
+
+"What a piece of work is man! ... ..... how infinite in faculties! In
+form and action how like a QUADRUPED! In apprehension, how like a DEVIL!"
+
+There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be
+the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This
+savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were
+concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had
+been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably,
+drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in
+the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet
+whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted,
+expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud
+JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp.
+My horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different
+direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know
+either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity
+of frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other
+way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree,
+with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and Yuranigh,
+both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill, whence I found
+that a great number had just retired, leaving even their opossums still
+roasting on the fire;--they having, in a very brief interval, by rapid
+strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard their shouts
+in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate retreat--
+aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing behind
+some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with the
+business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a
+low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of black
+ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so that it
+might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it on the
+south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to give
+birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we were
+encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the Bottle tree,
+represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this range, and
+in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the country
+westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a
+watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and dry
+ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the
+commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this
+downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew
+our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a
+pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and
+the ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently
+in the same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to
+bring forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the
+country beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and
+the country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+38 deg.; at noon, 82 deg.; at 4 P. M., 82 deg.; at 9, 43 deg..
+
+[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature
+behind a tree.]
+
+16TH MAY.--We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the
+carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively
+on the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque,
+while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more
+importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along the
+creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find water
+at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26 deg. 15'
+24" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 49
+deg.. Height above the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;--of this camp, 1256
+feet.
+
+17TH MAY.--Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I could
+move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone
+ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it
+would), to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping
+valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were
+clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and
+found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height
+afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to be
+chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon,
+and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the
+course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat.
+I descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could
+find no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine
+grassy flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising
+ground, on the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the
+inhabitants of the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek
+turning towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious
+open flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our
+further progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I
+perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards
+it, observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching
+a large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below
+these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the
+blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond
+that could not have lasted long,--here I saw at once secure, a firm
+footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it
+went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully
+as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N.
+to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far
+on our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with
+other streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course
+downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just deserted,
+the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left
+suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp
+under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its
+final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research. I
+returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a
+permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29 deg.; at noon, 78
+deg.; at 4 P. M. 75 deg.; at 9, 49 deg..
+
+18TH MAY.--Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to trace,
+with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays
+coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the
+country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well
+covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to
+the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap
+behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we had
+descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we had
+just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I
+sought a good position for a depot camp on the newly-discovered river,
+and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W.,
+overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and
+having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and
+firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke
+and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as
+much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being
+removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the kangaroos
+come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this camp, 26
+deg. 12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40 deg.; at 4 P. M., 78 deg.; at
+9, 57 deg..
+
+19TH MAY.--I could now venture to halt a day without any apprehensions
+about leaving sufficient water for the party who were following us; and I
+had recently obtained many angles I wished to put together, in order to
+learn the character of the country, which required much study. That I
+should have overlooked an extensive country, without perceiving any
+indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at my feet, seemed
+a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of its ultimate
+course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the chief
+elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount Red
+Cap, Bindango, and Bindyego, to the high ranges nearer the coast. That
+the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby), and
+flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of basaltic
+rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango and the
+northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side, and that
+the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered. Where was
+the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters were full of
+fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46 deg.;
+at noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 65 deg..
+
+20TH MAY.--The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded us
+some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration
+during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a sudden
+change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during the
+journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48 deg.. F. Yuranigh
+contrived to catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of
+the rivers in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river
+could belong to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53
+deg.; at noon, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M., 45 deg.; at 9, 45 deg..
+
+21ST MAY.--The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me to
+ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west,
+in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the
+river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests,
+and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too
+loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three
+channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in
+ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass
+(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees
+being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind,
+but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly
+on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as
+they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally
+strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions,
+such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this
+summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the
+highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80
+miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line
+of smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and others
+to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon
+presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded
+from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level
+horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap
+was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye
+ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending
+eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote distance;
+in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives. I
+returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had
+observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore,
+still look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that,
+for the heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the
+river, resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west
+of it. They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an
+extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken
+into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27
+deg.; at noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+22D MAY.--This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20 deg.; and
+in the open air, at 12 deg.. The river was frozen, and the grass was
+white with hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before
+us, I resolved to form a depot with our drays and heavy equipment here,
+and to await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The
+spot was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr.
+Kennedy with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively
+the character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather
+apprehensive that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this
+point; and I was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for
+continuing the journey, without dragging them any further through the
+heavy sand. It was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be
+obliged to remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a
+journey, when horses and light carts might have enabled me to have
+pursued it to a conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 27 deg..
+
+23D MAY.--The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and to
+receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of
+ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great
+height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further
+course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp; and, in
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With this
+view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it
+from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I
+ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without
+difficulty, or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the
+western side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent
+gradual, through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the
+Yarra gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the
+ACACIA CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA
+MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark, and
+stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh; who
+remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney. But
+deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the
+direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length,
+we approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but
+quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I
+turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it
+pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going
+far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this
+interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the
+furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward,
+extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river
+would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance
+from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of
+their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I
+passed this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing
+our guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that
+they had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the
+river bank. These people had no clothing,--the mercury stood at 19 deg.
+and 20 deg. F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely
+enough to have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns.
+Yet, under such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to
+them, these human beings were so contented and happy, that the
+overflowings of their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human
+nature in a wild state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on
+the contrary, I was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that,
+much as I wished to learn the original name of this interior river, and
+something about its course, I forbade any of the party from taking any
+notice of these, its original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the
+natives, had also taught me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the
+camel. Thermometer, at sunrise, 12 deg.; at noon, 52 deg.; at 4 P. M., 56
+deg.; at 9, 32 deg..
+
+24TH MAY.--I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about two
+miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already
+mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great
+distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last
+evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly waving
+my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and several
+others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a similar
+manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man on
+horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the summit, grew
+the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood, that I was
+obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree on the
+summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of platform on
+the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there appeared some
+open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its apparent
+course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
+67 deg.; and at 9, 30 deg..
+
+25TH MAY.--Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if
+possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some knowledge of
+the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my work was a
+conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the projecting
+extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range), and that its
+basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the sandstone cliffs on
+this side. But the course downwards still remained a question, which
+diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper course to come
+from where it was my wish to go. I resolved, nevertheless, while thus
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my ride of the 23RD MAY, and
+ascertain whether it could turn westward under the southern cliffs, the
+only direction in which it was likely to be available to us, downwards,
+at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4
+P.M. 68 deg.; and at 9, 38 deg..
+
+26TH MAY.--Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I retraced my
+former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the dry river bed,
+where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone gullies, where
+one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to pursue; and
+this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open forest of
+iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of the same
+felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan basin; the
+soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard
+leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and,
+further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue
+distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually
+accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search
+of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on
+a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA
+PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best
+kinds of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good
+pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile
+beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as we
+could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to find
+the river, and the rocky country over which we had come. Westward, the
+downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated conical hills,--
+the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing westward like a
+limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that barrier the
+river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the river, I
+found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five miles
+further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs, but I
+saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally amid the
+long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of native
+inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we hastened
+back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which happened to
+be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at noon, 72 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 71 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
+
+27TH MAY.--We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I had
+seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak appeared
+to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W., and in that
+expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately recognised two of
+my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo miles
+respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous range on
+the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined to be
+only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only
+westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a
+long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as
+accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in
+sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and
+although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at
+the far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more
+probable, from the general slope of the country, that it was only another
+tributary coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who
+alone stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate
+of the rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not
+to be found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me
+know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it
+been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then that
+it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked
+much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the
+twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land
+around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of
+the hills--half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and
+vales--or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least there
+seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer of
+nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its
+sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from
+that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in
+that direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill
+overlooking that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable
+geological friend. We reached the depot camp in the evening, and found
+all well, only that a very tall and powerful native had been
+reconnoitring our position during the day, from various trees commanding
+a view of it; probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always
+happened to be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party
+was absent, as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at
+noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P.M., 68 deg.; at 9, 59 deg.; with wet bulb, 50 deg..
+
+[* Probably the Nive. See INFRA.]
+
+28TH AND 29TH MAY.--My ride westward had enabled me to intersect more
+points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate
+country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying
+down points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I
+gain a satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however,
+I was convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depot
+camp, was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey.
+The arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important
+desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and
+continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil
+beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy
+drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly
+time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and other
+obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my reconnoissance
+northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen miles, and bearing
+271/2 deg. E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at
+noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P.M., 79 deg.: at 9, 65 deg..
+
+30TH MAY.--I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of
+excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit
+consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was
+much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of those
+remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had since seen
+them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'-back crest
+of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other heights. The
+girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and only
+sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same kind, a
+very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality, seems
+to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the kangaroo is
+remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I am sure,
+remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood being so
+light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or tomahawk,
+might live by the side of one without other food or water; as if nature
+in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary places,
+had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must contain a
+great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to contain as
+much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great number of
+seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds; and, from
+the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a bird on a
+rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of this tree
+may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds being the
+favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed probably
+requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may
+grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and
+satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to the
+southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount Lonsdale):
+the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in the S. W.;
+and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward, beyond
+which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were just
+visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's
+course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing, and
+the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such
+occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from the
+N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or
+towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected
+various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus
+connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango, Mount
+Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some almost
+clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and seemed to be
+also connected with those stretching towards Bindango, and separating the
+basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country. A hill similar to
+that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the interior side of
+it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The valley at the
+base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA; and there
+was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped not long
+before, but in which no water then remained.
+
+[* A new genus, since named DELABECHEA.]
+
+On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left
+it in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing,
+each, several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by
+two females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under
+arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to
+the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures
+motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before
+the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal
+speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses.
+Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they
+advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at a
+distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned
+round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that
+vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old
+soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first
+sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon
+after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to
+approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest
+following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite
+with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he
+continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities,
+and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also,
+by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial
+description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the
+white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a
+spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the
+one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the
+other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed
+more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above, the
+other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more
+remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave
+strict orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be
+allowed to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the
+natives; that no ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there.
+Nothing could be more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor
+more courageous than his appearance before our more numerous party, with
+his spears and open defiance; and I was determined to take every
+precaution to avoid a collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during
+our probably long residence here, our people from doing them any harm.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 22 deg.; at noon, 60 deg.; at 4 P.M., 63 deg.;
+at 9, 31 deg..
+
+1ST JUNE.--The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded from
+the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach of
+the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line;
+and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health.
+The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again
+proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depot here.
+Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him, for
+twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from the
+N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of
+Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their
+attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is
+from his own notes:--"At 1 P.M., an old native, accompanied by five
+younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and when
+within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably their
+chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest.
+Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received here,
+that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve that
+good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance, according
+to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green bough, and
+endeavoured by signs to make them leave:--finding that of no avail, I
+presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of bread.
+After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand, and
+taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence they
+had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid them
+farewell. As the others still remained in STATU QUO, I went through the
+same ceremony with them until they were all on their path homewards.
+Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I flattered myself that
+I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that we did not wish them
+beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at 4 P.M. a large number
+of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and children, came boldly up
+and encamped within a few yards of the tents, and two hundred more were
+reported to me by Mortimer as being at a short distance in their rear. I
+gave strict orders that no man should go near them, and I mustered the
+party myself at 8 P.M. Shortly afterwards, three or four natives came
+down to our fires, and on the men saying that they would not be made to
+leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and shewed them their own
+camp. One tall young native in particular, wearing an opossum cloak,
+exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I continued to watch their
+movements until half-past eleven, P.M. up to which time they were talking
+very earnestly, continually repeating the words "white fellow." I had not
+retired to my tent five minutes when I heard Baldock (one of the two men
+on watch) several times desire the natives to go back, who, as it
+appeared, would insist on coming forward to our fires. Serjeant Niblet
+then called me, saying he thought "all was not right," that the natives
+refused to keep away, and that he had seen the fire sticks of others
+approaching from several directions. On turning out, I found them making
+a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of our tents, and the
+grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their mischievous work. I
+called to them in the language of some of the aborigines, to go away
+quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but seeing that they still
+drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger of the camp, I
+desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their arms, to
+charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received orders. We
+succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm, one or two
+shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I had
+given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind them,
+all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them that we
+had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the cattle
+brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning watch, and
+no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of the treacherous
+nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic of the
+aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct of our
+neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was likely
+to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit that
+position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr. Kennedy
+to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could not keep
+pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so numbered, the others
+marked being those where his party had passed the night. This depot camp
+was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such others of mine as have been
+marked between this and VIII., shall be added to this journal, and the
+whole marked on the map. A new species of CALLITRIS appeared among the
+trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the large leaved variety of ACACIA
+DECORA, further removed than usual from the common form, and approaching,
+in some respects, to A. RUBIDA. Among the bushes was the beautiful little
+A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its little heath-like leaves, and among the
+grasses was remarked an abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with
+extremely minute flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 18 deg.; at noon,
+64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 64 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligula nulla nisi
+squamula quadam, panicula effusa ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque
+scabriusculis, paleis truncatis altera 3-nervi altera binervi.]
+
+2D JUNE.--Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over two of
+the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of the
+journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration of
+flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of
+mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I
+now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring
+carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd,
+formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to this
+point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner Mitchell,
+accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such passages as the
+following:--"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir Thomas Mitchell
+now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We understand the intrepid
+Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition to the Gulf, keeping
+to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not very encouraging to
+us, certainly; but we work for the future. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11
+deg.; at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+3D JUNE.--This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river,
+which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus
+tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It
+is therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr.
+Wm. M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the
+Barwan. The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed
+to be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was
+thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily
+watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle
+at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate
+protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very
+particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be
+allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use them
+very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible,
+respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+16 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 66 deg.; at 9, 34 deg..
+
+Chapter V.
+
+CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE
+FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR
+BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE TRIBE.--
+HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER FROM THE
+WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE N.W.--DETERMINE TO
+FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS
+THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN
+AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH SCRUBS, AND OVER
+SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL
+DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--
+ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE RIVER WARREGO
+DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT.--MOUNT
+FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE NOGOA.--
+COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF SCRUB,
+IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN DOWNS.--
+BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT MUDGE.--
+LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.
+
+4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr. Kennedy adieu,
+for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my party and light
+carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left this zealous
+assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in departing on a
+hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the population
+might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left, predominated
+with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and repassing
+through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a length
+of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to be
+assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning and
+treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we parted
+in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a hope, I
+must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of pleasure,
+looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to encounter,
+and considering the state of my own health.
+
+The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and
+delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;
+therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day,
+and go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter
+journey. This was only of six miles from the depot camp. Amongst the
+waterworn pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of
+coal and the rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its
+concomitant strata. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16 deg.; at 9 P.M., 40 deg..
+
+5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to the
+river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and
+convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I accordingly
+sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr. Kennedy, and
+with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring forward one of
+the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry channels of
+tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight, like the
+main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable point to
+encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there gullies
+rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the
+intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to
+contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to
+the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was very
+open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of water,
+forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from north to
+south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked XXXI.,
+last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24 deg.; at 4 P.M., 70
+deg.; at 9, 43 deg..
+
+6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,
+confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of
+course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the
+time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had
+now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical
+work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have
+had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men
+were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel
+was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26 deg. 6' 25" S. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 30 deg.; at noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 50 deg..
+
+7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as
+we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with water-
+courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious impediment. At
+length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range, and a long ridge
+appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely, following up the smooth
+clay floor of a water-course, I found myself gradually entangled in a bad
+scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After cutting our way through it, for a
+mile and a half, I sought on the other side for any hollow leading off
+water, and found one which brought us into an open forest flat with a
+fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula appeared on its skirts; and, at
+length, abundance of water, also, in the ponds. The grass was so
+luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped beside it, without seeking
+the river, to which these ponds seemed adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+36 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 70 deg. (XXXII.). Height above the
+sea, 1309 feet.
+
+8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was very
+fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating country
+intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics. At
+length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the west.
+Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main
+channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I
+was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although
+its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round even
+from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it, obliged me
+to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid them. We
+thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably level,
+and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed a
+water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,
+where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole
+nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I
+approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle
+from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on
+this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 36 deg.; at 4 P. M., 85 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.. (XXXIII.)
+
+9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I considered
+that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet weather;
+and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in which I
+wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to explore the
+country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest. Little
+rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of hay,
+but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I found
+a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful
+clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few bushes,
+by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and endeavoured to
+talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh, who was with
+me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his language, and in
+vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this unintelligible parley at
+some distance, (for they would not come close up,) we rode on. We came at
+length on a sandy country with much Callitris, but the whole surface was
+undulating, and we crossed several chains of deep ponds, all falling to
+our right, or eastward; some containing water. At length, I perceived on
+the right, a deeper valley, and found in it a little river with a rocky
+bed, and coming from the N. N. W. At two miles further, along my N. W.
+course, I found it crossed it, coming from W. S. W., and here I turned,
+well pleased to find an abundant supply of water, and a good country in
+the best direction for our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on
+rock, and the water was plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the
+evening, after sunset we were called to by a numerous tribe of natives,
+assembled on the opposite steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we
+had encamped. By the particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had
+seen in the morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was
+evidently their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil
+in the bud, and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in
+line before the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced
+steadily up the opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud
+jeering noise. They set up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced
+to the brow of the cliff, as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently
+ascended, they fell off, and, by the time we gained the height, they had
+retired to a considerable distance, still shouting vociferously. Two,
+however, were seen drawing round our left flank, in a little gully,
+followed by a female carrying spears. I discharged my rifle over their
+heads, upon which they hastened to their fellows. On firing another shot
+over the dark noisy mass before us, they became suddenly quite silent,
+probably persuaded that we were really in earnest. We marched through
+their camp, made a feint, by descending into a gully, of coming upon them
+unawares, and continued there, until silence and darkness secured our
+peaceful occupation of the ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and
+noise, which might have been kept up until morning, and until they had
+worked themselves into that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think
+they have courage to fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up,
+they were sure to have followed us, and gathered a savage population in
+our rear. Lat., 25 deg. 54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 70; at 9, 50 deg.. (XXXIII.)
+
+10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession Creek, for
+so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until we filled a
+hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of yesterday. Thus we
+reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding much heavy sand in
+the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest point I had previously
+visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 39
+deg.. Height above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)
+
+11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were obliged to
+turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction whence the river
+came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of only 31/2 miles,
+and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I thus came upon the
+rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording an easy means of
+crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only passable place I
+had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere. The strata at
+this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced me to travel
+westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner, a synclinal
+line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We passed
+through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable
+elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained
+grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds
+falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water, whereupon I
+returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at 9 P.M., 38
+deg.. Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)
+
+12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with
+ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a
+yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of
+waterworn pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a
+silicious petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse
+track of yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which
+grew brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we
+came upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew
+the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10
+feet. I found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was
+here 1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further
+on were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became
+overcast with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight
+showers fell. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20 deg.; at noon, 74 deg.; at
+4P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.. The wind and clouds came from the west.
+
+13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the northward;
+nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again lose westing,
+until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W. The morning
+was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to gall the
+necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that
+direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow, rosewood,
+and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and continuous. I
+fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course there was
+from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more sandy,
+although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the
+northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it
+ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had
+almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then
+burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I
+therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make
+much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg.; at noon, 57 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 54 deg.; at 9, 48 deg..
+
+[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles
+further would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the
+head of the river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]
+
+14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a
+change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were
+filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and
+took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered
+rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began
+to think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following
+down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25 deg.
+47' 28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52 deg.; at noon, 55 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+57 deg.; at 9, 38 deg. (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.
+
+15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its channel
+became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few miles
+below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in one part
+of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it would
+have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the S.S.W. I
+thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path was thus again
+crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then travelled 121/2
+miles, and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the day's journey, with
+little exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but for the rain that
+had fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and oxen. As it
+was, they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river, Mr.
+Stephenson caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a circumstance
+almost proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We found this day
+a new narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with bark thick,
+soft, and fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA
+was loaded with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods. Among the herbage
+was observed the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA
+grew in the light dry sand. Novelty in the plants, animals, and fishes,
+was now to be expected; the weather was cool and pleasant, and our
+travelling equipment tolerably efficient. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30
+deg.; at 4 P. M., 58 deg.; at 9 P. M., 46 deg. (XXXVII.). Height above
+the sea, 1827 feet.
+
+[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus
+mucronatoacuminatis supra glabris subtus subsericeis marginibus arcte
+revolutis, paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-
+tomentosis. These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every
+other species.]
+
+16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river I
+had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th instant.
+The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning was
+about 21/2 miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and even
+south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there was a
+little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I had
+intersected from the high station east of the depot. It now bore 12 deg.
+west of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the
+country would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the
+callitris was, as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy
+sand between them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take
+its course, consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats,
+when their direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity
+of encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be
+found in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for
+water, I found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43
+deg.; at 9 P. M., 54 deg.. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.
+
+[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis
+canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis
+superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus
+parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis
+concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very
+distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid
+hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant,
+but very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]
+
+17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain already
+mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick forests of
+callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open places
+amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground was
+undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of these
+ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at length
+attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the summit I
+ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond it, we
+came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we greatly
+wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon
+hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy
+flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous
+but dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this
+downwards about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the
+sandstone cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks.
+Ascending at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above,
+and an open forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up
+at a rocky point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the
+Maran, convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far
+off. We descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry
+watercourse lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river.
+Here, however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform
+breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W., and
+I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,
+however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and the
+sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up
+the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found
+some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,
+which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for
+our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards
+until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without
+drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent
+throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from
+30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams
+might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained
+a vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was
+rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with
+rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make
+the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst
+the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I
+found, growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected
+by Allan Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of
+Hunter's River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on
+the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at 9 P. M., 61 deg..
+
+18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly
+refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal
+Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the
+bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until
+he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst
+the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the
+summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my survey,
+lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was unimpeded by
+gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive view,
+embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of volcanic
+cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the direction
+of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little could be
+seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies, by which
+the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint in a long
+line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed thus to
+pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges about the
+25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden from my
+sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I had
+ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance bounded by
+low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides, like cliffs,
+towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke, indicated a
+good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station, that
+eastward of the depot camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then
+attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the
+officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the
+summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,
+and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at
+a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could
+be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for
+which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race as
+had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science, and
+the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the world
+to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names were
+applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do honour
+to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a bald-
+forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to
+the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,
+Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished
+to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,
+Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all
+sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on which I
+stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as to
+form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,
+"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes
+grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst
+them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On
+returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a
+spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;
+having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal
+Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:
+thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds in
+the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the
+crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the
+horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more
+water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to
+the north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible
+from the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had
+found, in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone
+gullies radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards
+Mount Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of
+mountainous obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the
+principal features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for
+our carts in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first
+establish the party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it
+along the range towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be
+necessary, in order to turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking
+some rocky gully within a convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again
+to explore these recesses for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's
+pond in the main channel. Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two
+beautiful and delicate ferns, the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM
+ASSIMILE, the Australian maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA
+CUNNINGHAMII, on the rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a
+variety of E. SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise,
+56 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 63 deg.; at 9, 55 deg.. Height
+above the sea, 1578 feet; and above river bed 40 feet.
+
+[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
+longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis)
+reticulatovenosis. This species is remarkable in the size and shape of
+its petiolated leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences
+(galls), each with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as
+many unequal projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of
+some BEGONIA.]
+
+19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the grass for
+our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, the
+sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's track
+towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which broke
+abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to the
+right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
+river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
+valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
+horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had already
+found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water sufficient for
+the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down the valley while
+they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile from the camp.
+The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this one, were dry.
+Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent quality. Pigeons
+were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) which is so great a
+luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the feathered race. The
+highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day appeared (by Captain
+King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. That of the camp over
+the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of these cliffs above the
+bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 50
+deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 61 deg..
+
+20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the country
+beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest land, and a
+less broken country, in a direction much further to the westward than the
+course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I now proceeded W.N.W.
+towards that open forest land. We found the country open for some miles,
+then, entering a flat or valley, I descended gradually between sandstone
+rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep ponds led to the north-west.
+On following this down, I found it turned more and more to the westward,
+and at length to the south-west, whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy
+banks, and, following up a ravine from the other side, again endeavoured
+to pursue my intended course. We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a
+sandstone range, and descended by another valley which led first
+northward, but terminated in joining a spacious grassy flat with dry
+ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this downwards for several miles in a
+rainy evening, and found at last, to my disappointment, that this also
+turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and hemmed in by low rocky points
+of ground, of very uniform shape. Many marks of natives appeared on the
+trees, and, in good seasons, it must be one of their favourite spots. I
+left it, however, when darkness and heavy rain obliged me to look for
+shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. By the time we arrived at
+this, we could see no grassy spot for our horses, nor any sort of cover
+for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a fallen tree, and under this,
+covered with a few boughs, we lay down on the wet earth for the night,
+being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, water for ourselves and
+horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67
+deg.; at 9, 57 deg..
+
+21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we should
+have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of well filled
+ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment to this
+journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were unavoidable.
+On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine open forest
+hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of Mount Owen,
+had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak induced me to
+approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little water-course
+in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the product of last
+night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the deviation from my
+route. A group of the most picturesque hills imaginable lay to the
+northward, and were connected with this, the whole being branches from
+the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep blue colour, where their
+clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly of a golden hue, from the
+rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke through the heavy clouds and
+poured rays over them, which perfected the beauty of the landscape. I
+recognised, from this apex, my station on Mount Owen, and several hills I
+had intersected from it. Amongst others, the three remarkable cones to
+the westward of Mount Faraday, apparently a continuation of the line of
+summits I have already mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal
+trap in nodules, the crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of
+lime, and there were many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round
+shot, strewed about. A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest
+part, and, on this summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by
+local attraction, and quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket
+sextant, and with it took some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily
+enjoyed a breakfast, and named the hill which gave us the water, Mount
+Aquarius. Returning towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived
+at the head of a gully which led tolerably direct until we found our
+track, in the creek I had run down on the preceding day. But night was
+approaching, and we had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern
+before which a large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night
+there in my cloak, I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at
+the camp, at 4 P. M., had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer
+to 22 deg., or 10 deg. below the freezing point.
+
+22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
+determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
+original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
+neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a
+passing shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
+Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, from
+the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that summit
+to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of the
+Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land seemed the
+highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's Table Land. I
+could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix it in my map.
+I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the northward, and
+a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country beyond, through
+which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to prepare for a
+"raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 27 deg.; at noon, 52 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 59 deg..
+
+23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled nearly
+northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large kangaroo
+entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in avoiding those
+on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, showed me that
+this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to Mount Clift from
+my former observations, and therefore followed it by keeping between the
+heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found one favourable for
+a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, valley, extending
+about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes evidently held much
+water, although they were then dry. This soon, however, turned to the
+south-west, evidently to join the channel I had before explored. Quitting
+it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended sandstone cliffs and pushed
+through scrubs, determined to proceed directly north-ward, until I met
+with valleys falling north-west. We thus passed just under the most
+easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, about sunset, to a hollow
+containing ponds, in two of which we found water. Here we gladly
+bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and were numerous higher up
+the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 50 deg.; at 9, 40 deg..
+
+24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
+frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
+which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
+Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
+after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing
+feature, (especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley
+descending to the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water
+holes, and in two of these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The
+course, throughout all its windings, was towards the north-west, and this
+I, at the time, thought, might be a northern water. I therefore returned,
+anxious to bring the party thus far, at all events, and resolved to
+follow this little river down. We arrived, on our way back, in the
+evening of the same day, in the valley I had quitted in the morning,
+having followed down a water-course from the end of Hope's Table Land,
+under which I had passed, in search of a good way for the carts. Although
+we had seen promising ponds of water in this little channel, we could
+find none in the lower part, having in the expectation of finding some,
+rode on until darkness prevented me from going further. We were thus
+obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) without water, and almost
+without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern where I had slept a few
+nights before, especially when I arose here in the night to mend the
+fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt afterwards that at
+the camp, the thermometer at 4 P. M. had been as low as 17 deg. of
+Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at noon, 51 deg.; at 4
+P. M. 49 deg.; at 9, 29 deg..
+
+[* This was 15 deg. degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much
+more easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
+moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
+Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated 7th
+April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
+
+"With a temperature of 20 deg. below the freezing point, we found the ice
+to form so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the
+barrier in so extremely severe a period of the season being
+impracticable, we stood away to the westward, for the purpose of making
+another attempt to approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude
+(76 deg. S.) on the 15th February."]
+
+25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
+minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
+rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
+not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
+bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
+stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
+the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount
+Clift, or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country,
+should be preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the
+eastern gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift
+than at the point where I before came down. But I found them much more
+acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
+rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
+called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
+from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
+its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
+towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us upon
+the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
+looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
+and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
+discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
+dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! However
+that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding water. In the
+neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were collected; viz.
+NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES TENUIFOLIA,
+ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with HOVEA
+LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, a low
+shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small species
+of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a verdant
+fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small red
+berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
+appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
+being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have been
+an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost tomentose
+above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus DODONOEA,
+frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its flowers.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 12 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at 4 P. M. 51 deg.;
+at 9, 22 deg..
+
+[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus,
+foliis obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque,
+capsulis tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
+
+26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
+finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
+course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed the
+barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be 700
+feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
+to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel
+along its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had
+bivouacked on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before
+sunset, encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which
+were two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the
+horses nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered
+out of buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
+abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
+cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14
+deg.; at noon, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M. 47 deg.; at 9, 37 deg..
+
+27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to come
+directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
+bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
+possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
+within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left,
+and some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
+encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
+cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
+way, about 3 P. M., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced with
+our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up by
+sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
+extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very
+luxuriant, apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately
+to the westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
+bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was open
+along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along its
+sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and various
+remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, forming a
+shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 20 deg.; at 9 P. M., 29 deg.. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
+
+28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the ordinary
+weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the barometer also
+indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I sent the party
+forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to the ponds in the
+newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I proceeded myself,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the fine cone already
+mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and extensive view of the
+mountains further northward. Most of the summits I had previously
+intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just appeared over an
+intermediate woody range, through which I was at a loss to discover where
+our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the north-west, I could
+just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills arising from a much
+lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever might be the final
+course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and water. The most
+important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a grey misty tint, as
+if it marked a valley descending from the highest eastern mountains,
+towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. Bare crests of
+similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole extent of that
+valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in such a clime,
+with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if watered
+well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it was
+fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended consisted of
+trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at its base, and
+on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact felspathic rock
+which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has been considered a
+very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an altered rock. Here,
+in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to break into
+irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; and I
+observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side lay
+uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60 deg.. That this is a hypogene
+rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident
+at Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
+affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
+had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM ELLIPTICUM.
+I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since ascertained, by
+that officer's register and calculations, the height of this summit above
+the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 feet.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 25 deg..
+(XXXIX)
+
+29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water (coming
+from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left bank of
+the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged me to
+make some detours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we regained
+the banks of the river, although our progress was not considerable. Its
+general course was still north-west, to the spot selected for my second
+camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks high, rounded,
+and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel was rarely to be
+seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent temporary showers
+seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I ascertained the
+variation of the needle to be 8 deg. 4' E. here. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. Height above the sea, 1914
+feet. (XL.)
+
+30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the
+southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered
+with scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the
+carts along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did
+not proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged
+us to abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
+projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
+direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the bank,
+southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
+directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained
+a view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
+and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
+this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of
+smoke seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but,
+towards the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this
+disappointment. Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an
+intervening woody range, there indicated a much lower and different kind
+of country, as if that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern
+waters; the woody intervening range appearing to be the division between
+them. As our last explored river again turned southward, it seemed
+reasonable to expect, beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing
+a different course. This range was plainly traceable from the high
+mountains more to the eastward, and was continuous westward to three
+remarkable conical hills, beyond which, the view did not extend. On the
+same range, a fine tableshaped mountain appeared nearly north. This I had
+already intersected from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The
+hill on which I stood consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the
+western extremity of Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards
+found by Mr. Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That
+ravine was extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The
+bottle-tree (Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it,
+in the stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One
+thorny tree or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again
+appeared here; it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf
+somewhat like the human hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright
+scarlet colour, about the shape and size of a French bean. This,
+sometimes grew to a tree as much as a foot in diameter; and the natives,
+who, like Nature herself, may be said to do nothing in vain, had cut one
+down, and carried off the whole of the trunk. The wood was of a leaden
+colour. This proved to be a new species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*]
+By our last day's journey, we had lost two miles of northing, and had
+thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south latitude. I therefore
+determined to cross our friendly little river, and look for another
+beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at
+noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P. M., 65 deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. Height above the sea,
+1732 feet. (XLI.)
+
+[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
+foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
+lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although
+no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the
+pod and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad
+and not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings
+extended.]
+
+1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to look
+into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
+western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
+into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
+that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
+into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
+to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
+clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I
+take him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out,
+and ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
+accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran
+northwest, and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow
+it then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
+back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
+to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
+way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to me.
+One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other or
+any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave to
+this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
+side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
+Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
+none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
+particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved
+ironbark, was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
+leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered lead-
+wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant among the
+grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was producing its
+small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow leaves and globular
+fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new CAPPARIS.[**]
+Thermometer, at daybreak, 35 deg.; at 9 P.M., 38 deg..
+
+[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis
+obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus
+subsolitariis.]
+
+[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,
+foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus
+aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,
+stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]
+
+2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I had
+been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it widened
+very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a deep
+current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices seemed
+to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most picturesque
+outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us, resembled pyramids,
+and I saw an open country beyond them, from which other summits of
+extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we had found no moisture in the
+ponds, and lamented that a country, in every other respect so fine,
+should be without water. Further on, I perceived reeds in the hollow of
+the valley, and Yuranigh said there must be a spring, upon which he
+walked in amongst them, but still found the earth dry. The reeds at
+length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at the lower part of the
+flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to examine that point. He
+emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a distance, made Douglas, my
+other man, say, "He has found water." He had found A RUNNING STREAM, to
+which he had been guided by its own music, and taking a tin pot, he
+brought me some of it. The water was clear and sparkling, tasting
+strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that this was the head of a river
+that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of picturesque beauty and pastoral
+abundance, within eighty miles of the tropics, we had discovered the
+first running stream seen on this journey. I returned, determined to
+bring the party thus far, and with the intention of passing that night
+where we had found water in a rock about six miles back, that we might
+sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had also the benefit of a
+cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we defied the frost of a
+very cold night, the thermometer having been registered at the camp, at 3
+A.M., as low as 7 deg.. In the scrubs we had passed through in the
+morning, a variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA, with grey velvety
+leaves, was scarcely in flower; and I observed a beautiful new species of
+STENOCHILUS with large tubular flowers.[*] The ACACIA FALCATA appeared
+also on the sandstone ground above the gullies, and a broad-leaved form
+of the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone brightly, and the rock being
+full of silver mica, the splendour of the scene imparted to my eye and
+mind then a degree of gratification far beyond any associations of the
+richest furniture of a palace. We found it impossible to get our horses
+to the water; but we hit upon an expedient which answered even better
+than a bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak.
+
+[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi
+in petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis
+acuminatis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra
+medium soluta.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines
+long. Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]
+
+3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and found
+an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at the
+camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part of
+the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14 deg.;
+at noon, 60; at 4 P.M., 61 deg.; at 9, 26 deg.. Height of camp above the
+sea, 1800 feet. (XLII.)
+
+4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this morning.
+Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the banks had
+been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance we hit
+upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy valley
+descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky crooked
+part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub directly to
+the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the valley, and
+arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of my
+bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by Arcturus)
+to be 24 deg. 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at 4 P.M., 49
+deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)
+
+5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze our
+tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We proceeded
+along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which appeared quite
+isolated, and just such as painters place in middle distance, I named
+Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of the right bank of
+the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had suddenly
+brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we had before
+us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards the country we
+were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country seemed new to us.
+The barometer showed we were rapidly descending, and I expected that our
+living stream would soon join that greater stream, the basin of which I
+thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from Mount P. P. King on
+the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the others, curved round
+from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in mountains equidistant
+between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it was reasonable to suppose
+that we had at length crossed the division between northern and southern
+waters. That between eastern and western waters was still to be
+discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where water was so scarce
+then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means of determining
+where that division was. If the general course of this river was found to
+be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that the dividing
+ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the westward of
+north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our route, and
+this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing north-
+westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King. Latitude
+24 deg. 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at
+4 P. M., 49 deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. Height above the sea, according to
+sixteen observations, 1421 feet. (XLIV.)
+
+6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA appeared
+amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods below, we found
+an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA (Reichb.) VAR.
+MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was less angular, and
+the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long hoary leaves,
+and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA, at a later
+season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also was found
+here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**] Travelling along
+the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of sparkling water
+to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could only account for
+the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a season, by the
+support of many springs. We made sure of water now for the rest of our
+journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et labetur in omne
+volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any I had ever seen
+in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals in ruins; others
+forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and contrasted with
+the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a fine stream in the
+foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole country. It was a
+discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those beautiful recesses
+of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown. The better to mark
+them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of Salvator Rosa.[***]
+The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the thick woods, just as
+John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them out in his beautiful
+sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature come so near these
+creations of genius and imagination. Where we encamped, the river was
+very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that the use of a bucket was
+necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding every precaution, one
+animal walked into the river, and could not be got out without great
+difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were two enormous eels,
+beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus lay abundantly on the
+banks, about the old fires of the natives. These were larger than either
+those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran; and although such
+freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a peculiarity in these was
+pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they much resembled the
+impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is much broader at the
+toes than at the heel). We here met with a new species of BORONIA,
+resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties afterwards occurred.
+It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale purple flowers.[****]
+A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining leaves, also grew
+here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed resembling
+European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with white
+flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS formed a small
+shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at 4 P.M., 49
+deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.
+
+[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus
+supra glabris subtus incanis, panicula terminali tomentosa, floribus
+distantibus.]
+
+[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis
+oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris
+trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime
+pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6
+linearibus glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]
+
+[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and
+ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on
+mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]
+
+[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis
+pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus
+subsolitariis axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]
+
+[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis
+falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis
+subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis
+solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel
+brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia
+shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually
+almost sessile.]
+
+7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon
+found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in
+one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush
+mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the
+current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the
+hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most charming
+morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an open forest
+which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and in a general
+direction about north-west. At length we approached the northern limits
+of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it, as we had
+reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry channel, which bore
+the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons. Following this dry
+channel down, I found its course turned to the northward, and even to the
+north-east. When we were disposed to encamp, I could find no water in the
+bed, nor were we better off when we had encamped, until Corporal Graham
+dug between two rocks therein, and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in
+one day vanished the pleasing prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of
+a stream flowing in the direction of our intended route. This might be, I
+then thought, the tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would
+be found to flow westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the
+desired north-west direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 58 deg.; at 9, 25 deg.. (XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.
+
+8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this
+river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling
+into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick
+brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged
+gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,
+induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined
+to penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that
+there I might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction,
+or, if not, cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was
+lost, however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses
+crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The
+scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings
+admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of
+sunset, I found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only
+half a minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with
+difficulty, about two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of
+a small watercourse, I found that even this turned south-east, evidently
+to fall into the reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I
+determined on an immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back
+to our friendly river. It was comparatively easy to return through the
+opening we had made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so
+that by twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the
+river, and near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying
+almost in my face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we
+afterwards found the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of
+the bullocks got bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole
+strength of the party dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+18 deg.; at 4 P.M., 54 deg.; at 9, 25 deg.. Height above the sea, 1241
+feet.
+
+9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the
+scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and
+the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24 deg. 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 14 deg.; (in my tent, 18 deg.;) at 9 P.M., 48 deg..
+
+10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight
+eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to
+cut a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.
+While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but
+met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that
+direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.
+towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined
+them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through
+open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy
+gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.
+Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the
+border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24 deg.
+33' 25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 58 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+62 deg.; at 9, 29 deg.. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.
+
+11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a
+fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again
+impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of this
+river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a
+large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to
+the eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward.
+It was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the
+coast, and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in
+it, about the latitude of 25 deg. S. This was more apparent to me on
+crossing the river, and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles
+beyond. He could see no mountains to the northward or north-east, but
+only the high table land already seen to the eastward, in which direction
+he could trace the course of the river. I hastened back to the party,
+directed them to encamp, and proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N.
+W. direction, carrying provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the
+sea of Brigalow--
+
+"----And we did buffet it, With lusty sinews throwing it aside, And
+stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."
+
+After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were
+rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.
+That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the
+foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood, extended
+far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of mountains of
+romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.
+
+"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"
+
+included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which, with
+its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the
+finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a
+perfectly clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had
+emerged, through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond
+that spot, until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits
+before me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these
+masses, seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my
+observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,
+the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a
+great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of
+quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it.
+I could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense
+of shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and
+prove ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had
+indulgently destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we
+traversed, consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood
+in great abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden
+as to be only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken
+character. Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich
+black earth, which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history
+may be simple, and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy
+could but find it out. We found, further on, a channel full of water,
+with reeds about the bed of it. There had been a current in it a short
+time previously, and, indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in
+some hollows in the Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and
+thus might have afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had
+other directions been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow
+near the water, not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and
+thus we passed the night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 18 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 30 deg..
+
+12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the
+assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,
+than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed
+Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the
+reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet
+in that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the
+remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,
+although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason
+for supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could
+escape to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11 deg.; in my tent, 15
+deg.; at noon, 67 deg. at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 35 deg.. Height above
+the sea, 1107 feet.
+
+13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river
+Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W.,
+but deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick
+scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we crossed,
+was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the river, where
+I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains adjacent, the
+ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we saw also various
+new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs in the scrub. The
+banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay. I employed the
+party to make a bridge across it, and this was well completed before
+sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M. 68
+deg.; at 9, 40 deg.. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)
+
+14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we
+travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the
+richest plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS,
+and PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most
+abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have
+been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived
+at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We
+soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,
+apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub
+of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so
+thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad,
+but because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so
+easily take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack,
+after imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich
+land was thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex,
+agate, and chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most
+strikingly resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an
+entire trunk lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains
+of a tree! I obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of
+this were rare. The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was
+1512 feet above the sea.
+
+Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to the
+westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping towards
+a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to find an
+open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at length arrived.
+I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and having halted the
+party to examine them, I found they were quite impassable. Such an
+unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open country, yet UNDER
+that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it was unexpected, and
+I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I had seen on our
+right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also found some large
+ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were pitching the tents I
+rode down the valley about two miles, and found that the direction of the
+water-course was about north-east. Such a direction was not very
+favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country beyond the
+limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it further.
+Latitude, 24 deg. 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 66 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.
+
+15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I proceeded
+about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length, mighty
+rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further. Leaving him
+in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely accessible with
+Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated summit, I saw still
+worse gullies before us, amongst which I could perceive no feature
+affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any characteristic of the
+structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the rugged summits I
+had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered, and could not
+then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on completing my map),
+that they were then under my feet. The highest parts seemed to extend
+south-westward. To cross such a region with our carts, was quite
+impossible, and I could only return, and, however reluctantly, follow
+down the valley in which we had encamped, until it should afford access
+to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse were steep, the
+bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous, alternately closing on
+rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus we were obliged to
+cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered each crossing a
+difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after crossing ten
+times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct distance from
+the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each crossing, cut
+the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general direction, I
+ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near the spot,
+where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this having been
+the first water we had seen during that day's laborious journey.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
+
+16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I considered
+it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, and
+thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour and
+delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore distressing
+to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to work out of it,
+to get round them. The whole day was consumed in proceeding thus about
+51/2 miles, and in an easterly direction. The closing in of the valley
+lower down, seemed to shut us from further progress even so, and I
+encamped, rather at a loss how to proceed. Just then Mr. Stephenson came
+to inform me that he had seen, from a rocky point on the left, an opening
+to the north-west, and level ground beyond it. I therefore determined to
+accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre the country in that direction.
+By digging in the bed of the creek, water was again obtained by Corporal
+Graham. Some extremely fragrant shrubs were discovered in these rocky
+recesses, especially one, which filled the air with perfume to a great
+distance around. It seemed to be a EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit,
+but with a powerful odour of balm, and formed a bush five feet high,
+growing on sandstone rocks, having a narrow leaf, and rather thorny
+stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] There was another bush, with
+leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but having a perfume equally strong
+of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that neither the seed, flower, nor
+fruit of these interesting shrubs could be obtained at that season. In
+that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed,
+and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began
+to indicate its flowering season, and we found a magnificent new crimson
+CALLISTEMON with its young flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new
+DODONOEA with wingless, 3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species
+of AOTUS, with narrow hoary leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees
+was a splendid new GEIGERA, with broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The
+PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very singular and little known fern, with
+narrow leaves and small orbicular leaflets, was also there, with the
+ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA
+AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-
+like heads of flowers, was common; and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA
+MONOPHYLLA was observed among the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25
+deg.; at 9 P.M., 41 deg..
+
+[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
+foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
+basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
+
+[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute
+tuberculatis, foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-
+parallelo-venosis viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to
+name this EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the
+deliciously fragrant lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as
+the recent state of the plant.]
+
+[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
+quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
+lanatis.]
+
+[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-
+lanceolatis parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis
+3-locularibus trigonis apteris.]
+
+[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
+crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis,
+calycis vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
+villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOIDES Meisn., but differing in the narrow
+and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
+
+[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe
+petiolatis subtus obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This
+appears to differ from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
+
+17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. By
+merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another water-
+course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came from the
+west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I had
+previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
+this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
+deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
+broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
+gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
+all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling
+to my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
+and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at
+the gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to
+guard the entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and
+kangaroos were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very
+attentively, to be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature
+only. A turret with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first
+appeared through the trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a
+round hill. On a nearer approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey
+rocks, and the small pines climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising
+out of a forest of common trees, presented still a very remarkable
+object. I named the valley "Glen Turret," and this feature "Tower
+Almond," after an ancient castle, the scene of many early associations,
+and now quite as uninhabited as this. Passing through Glen Turret, we
+ascended the nearest summit on the right, and from it beheld a prospect
+most cheering, after our toils amid rocky ravines. On the westward, the
+rocky range seemed to terminate abruptly towards the north, in an
+elevated point, which seemed to command an extensive view over the
+unknown W. and N.W. Out of that region two isolated mountain masses arose
+from an open country, and were clothed with open forests to their
+summits. Further eastward, masses of mountain in the extreme distance
+appeared covered, also, with open forests, and presented finely rounded
+outlines, not likely to impede our passage, in any direction. But towards
+the N.W. our view was not so extensive; like the uncertain future, it
+still lay hid. The retrospect was very extensive, including Mount Faraday
+in the extreme distance, and which thus afforded me a valuable back angle
+for the correction of our longitude from any errors of detailed survey.
+The lofty mass of Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E.,
+and I could here again intersect its three principal points. The view
+back to the Pass was very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on
+the bold summits, as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to
+the westward, an interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach,
+presenting a crescent, concave on that side, apparently the limit to the
+basin of the Nogoa, and the dividing range between eastern and western
+waters. Our Pass seemed to be the only outlet through the labyrinths
+behind us. Even the open plains beyond them were visible in a yellow
+streak above the precipices. Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was
+distinctly visible, on the horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 29 deg.; at 9 P.M., 43 deg.. (LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
+
+18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
+brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
+obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its
+elevated extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction,
+tolerably open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of
+grass, and near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds
+descending to the eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the
+habit of a dwarf Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24 deg. 6'
+47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 31 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69
+deg.; at 9, 44 deg.. (LII.)
+
+[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
+cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus
+solitariis sessilibus.]
+
+19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting further
+to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most northern
+summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up by
+gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
+and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
+near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
+summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
+Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
+apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
+feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
+the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
+appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features,
+although much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then
+stood, seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some
+higher ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the
+coast. Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken
+hills, at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-
+connected undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the
+south-east, whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy
+Creek, while others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a
+separate basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river
+was indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the
+left or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated
+mountain mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the
+valley formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point
+of the whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite,
+lay in that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10 deg. W.
+of N.) through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
+mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
+according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
+not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
+named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
+were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
+itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
+impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
+camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
+two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
+Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
+that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
+handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
+Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham took
+the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
+expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
+woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or
+deeds suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
+this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
+which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered a
+very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
+leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
+gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
+Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**].
+Although we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
+pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed us to
+the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had been
+frosty. Latitude, 24 deg. 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at
+noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 61 deg.; at 9, 47 deg..
+
+[* See page 285.]
+
+[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
+lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
+canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
+OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
+WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
+EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN PLAINS,
+WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DRY
+CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND PROCEED N.W.--FROM
+A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH BRIGALOW SCRUB
+TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE CHANNEL MORE
+CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY CHANNEL JOINS
+FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS
+FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK BRIGALOW.--NIGHT
+WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS COURSE BEING EASTWARD
+OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE OUR TRACK TO THE
+PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART,
+WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow scrub,
+on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, and
+crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards the
+N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, resembling
+a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was precipitous, and
+seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after crossing a ridge
+rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub upon it, and one
+or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the bottle tree,
+(DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses descending to the
+southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. One, at length, on
+our right, taking the direction in which I was proceeding, viz., 10 deg.
+W. of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a broader valley leading
+N.W. Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, we found at length a
+fine pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, after a journey of
+about twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to the base of the
+lofty isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower valley crossed
+it, falling either to the northward or southward. This I left in pleasing
+uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that locality, when
+I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running north and south.
+I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount Beaufort, in honour
+of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40
+deg.; at noon, 66 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.. (LIII.)
+
+21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad valley,
+we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly turned
+in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from the
+south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
+Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we had
+at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil consisted
+of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. We got
+amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for the
+channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
+Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
+no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
+brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon arid
+stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently from
+drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means encouraging.
+On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, at an
+old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that water was
+not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two native
+companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, on which
+salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the Bogan, had
+been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The very grass
+seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so checked by drought.
+A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, and convert the
+country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured further, to send
+the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to examine the
+country before us. Latitude, 23 deg. 48' 36". Thermometer, at sunrise, 57
+deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 48 deg..
+
+22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, I
+went forward on the bearing of 30 deg. W. of N. I soon fell in with the
+united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
+direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
+these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
+ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
+northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
+them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to relieve
+me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A promising
+valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, and from it
+arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, from other
+ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured the outlines
+of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this morning were
+a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of yesterday. Such is
+human life in travelling, and so it was in war at Salamanca this day
+thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short journey on the bank of
+the river. Latitude, 24 deg. 46' 46". Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg.,
+at noon, 74 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.. (LIV.)
+
+23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so that
+none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. Accordingly, on
+arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to all, that they
+might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we not
+fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread into
+little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes formed
+by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of the
+grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been due,
+and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we had
+travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
+scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
+with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
+and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the water-
+worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, besides
+the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. Very old
+and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were small
+fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large forked
+tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
+eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
+apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
+23 deg. 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.;
+at 4 P.M. 80; at 9, 55 deg.. (LV.)
+
+24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air was
+balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. Lightning
+had been seen to the northward during the night. In following the little
+wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, and crossed
+two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a good large
+pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling the main
+channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. With the
+last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became neighbours to
+the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was to be seen, and
+the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in length, with
+ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of thunder was heard
+in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, that we were near
+the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms exhausted
+themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where they fell.
+During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next morning, to
+the northward. Latitude, 23 deg. 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.;
+at noon, 75 deg.; at 4, P.M., 82 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.. (LVI.)
+
+25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
+route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
+Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
+line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
+just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
+fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
+The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
+improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
+rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to the
+eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At eight
+miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many ducks,
+and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, finding that
+water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we required it.
+Latitude, 23 deg. 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at noon,
+77 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. (LVII.)
+
+26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out in
+that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
+scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
+of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
+genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
+travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
+indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
+straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
+rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
+new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
+flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
+useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; and
+useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
+fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late,
+I travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained
+its banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
+bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst
+it, evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
+spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
+terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and
+fruit. Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and
+underside of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span
+long, cordato acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green
+and glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
+pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
+Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
+seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P.M., 89 deg.;
+at 9, 75 deg.. (LVIII,)
+
+[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis,
+foliis impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis
+subalternis.]
+
+27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
+variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much whereof
+lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there was
+any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
+little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
+water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as
+close as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
+yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
+was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
+thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
+named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a range
+in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only to
+send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
+westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
+water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
+miles. Latitude, 23 deg. 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at noon,
+83 deg.; at 4 P.M., 90 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. (LIX.)
+
+28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
+hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
+southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
+and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
+formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
+impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
+to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from
+the usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
+party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
+by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
+over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
+fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had been
+flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed there,
+the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of water, and
+beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a tribe
+of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of decayed
+stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once grown, and
+that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing; as if,
+according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to open
+downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular seasons,
+become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted in the
+scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the plain, and
+across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through some open
+forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the many dry
+channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom then
+consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit it,
+and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly undulating
+ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the LORANTHUS
+SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a tree, from
+whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of which I
+ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it, through
+which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The extreme
+westerly escarp of these hills bore 17 deg. E. of N., so that nothing was
+likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
+direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
+consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
+brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
+stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
+On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
+good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
+plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
+found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23
+deg. 5' 20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 82 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 88 deg.; at 9, 58 deg.. (XL.)
+
+29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of easy
+access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a N.W.
+direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood and
+other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew in the
+place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open, park-
+like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a greenness
+was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these tropical regions.
+Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-
+flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike plant, and a form of
+Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the two other varieties. This
+was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species of the genus GEIJERA
+formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender weeping branches. It
+was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, except that its flowers
+were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus STENOCHILUS, but
+new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large spreading tree,
+from which we could bring away nothing that would enable botanists to
+describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of the leaves, which,
+Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE; but the fruit appeared
+to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect to lead to any
+satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently from those near
+Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another language." This river
+was not the least unique of our recent discoveries. It still consisted of
+a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any one continuous
+channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by various trees
+growing in the banks. When their large roots became denuded by the
+floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that the tree fell
+over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the floating-wreck,
+and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of floating wreck
+became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so formed forced the
+river into new currents, working out new courses; and this appeared to
+give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It seems extremely
+favourable for the retention of water in a country where it may be
+scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun, preserve it
+much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed channel
+alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found the
+hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded in
+discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
+naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
+although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
+attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
+delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
+90 deg. about 4 P.M., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
+recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
+disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
+in May. Latitude, 22 deg. 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at
+noon, 80 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.. (LXI.)
+
+[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus
+in petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
+
+[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
+apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
+lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis
+infima retusa vix caeteris magis soluta.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but
+much whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the
+lower one much broader.]
+
+30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
+endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
+the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to
+the left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into
+extensive plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and
+that was skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we
+entered an open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw,
+from the skirts of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the
+east for several days past, and I was able to intersect various points.
+We seemed to be descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon,
+covered with ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved
+both as to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet
+high, was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
+DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M.
+DULCE. A hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained
+abundance of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and,
+instead of brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong
+grass, and much verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble
+to cross, and soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had
+run well to the westward. We had crossed the 147 deg. of E. longitude,
+and I was very anxious to learn more of the further course of this river.
+I crossed it, and hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a
+flat-topped cliffy range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was
+low; the middle part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our
+camp. It was likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our
+purpose. Latitude, 22 deg. 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.; at
+noon, 82 deg.; at 4 P.M., 83 deg.; at 9, 45 deg.. (LXII.)
+
+31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
+that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in
+a deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
+I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
+river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This
+new river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened
+across it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction
+of the two rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green
+pods and dry pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than
+those of Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?)
+Beyond the last found river, we travelled over open forest land,
+occasionally passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might
+again see water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our
+abundant little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for
+such was the bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious
+dry lagoon. Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large
+floods from the river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still
+continuing along the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared,
+and I finally encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The
+course and character of the river below the junction last mentioned,
+remained to be ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which,
+before the rain, had been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen,
+which bore some resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered
+in any quantity. The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form
+from any to be seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard
+clay about the size and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being
+larger, or as much as 31/2 feet high, others smaller. In some places they
+were so numerous, as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst,
+especially where the grass was long. Latitude of this camp, 22 deg. 44'
+45". Thermometer, at sunrise, 52 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69
+deg.; at 9, 43 deg.. (LXIII.)
+
+1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
+followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came upon
+the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many miles in
+that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where the very
+coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina appeared
+amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh went to the
+top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to the
+eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
+course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low
+range already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country
+between the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very
+low. Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
+course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction,
+and forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
+much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
+Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
+important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
+grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
+lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
+ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
+encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
+appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
+woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
+white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
+tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
+bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
+LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
+Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary CAPPARIS
+was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight inches long,
+although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and their hard
+leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
+afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
+Latitude, 22 deg. 38' 40". (LXIV.)
+
+[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
+longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
+solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
+
+2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain, but
+lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W. course
+in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests alternating
+with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving dry hollows
+where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all these
+hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and children,
+remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These numerous
+receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with which even
+the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of the animal
+world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that sort of
+scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river, by
+travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
+the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
+camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
+river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
+would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
+nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
+terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
+be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40 deg. N. of
+W. to 40 deg. E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the
+river almost bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any
+thing of the river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the
+last-mentioned direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach
+of water. In the dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in
+flower, all quite new to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA
+DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and a very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new
+VELLEYA was also found near this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the
+river, the STENOCHILUS CURVIPES was loaded with its long tubular flowers.
+A small species of Acacia was perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.;
+and we found also a curious scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude,
+22 deg. 30' 10" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29 deg.; at noon, 61 deg.; at
+4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 40 deg.. (LXV.)
+
+[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
+oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
+pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
+pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
+distinct.]
+
+[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus,
+oblongospathulatis acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et
+obsolete dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis
+radicalibus elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum
+vel trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-
+lanceolatis, floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis,
+membranaceis, ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis,
+petiolatisque; antherae liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum,
+labiis compressis, cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent.
+lata, crassinervia; scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum
+elongati.]
+
+[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
+glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
+laciniis duabus supremis diu vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
+subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
+
+3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
+crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the
+river bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain
+distance from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had
+been accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the
+river, and other food. The river was found to spread into separate
+channels, in which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them
+again united in a splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general
+course was by no means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was
+much to be apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast,
+and become another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the
+interior country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys
+have been made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
+polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
+brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part
+where we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded
+by torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn
+banks, and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from
+these obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
+scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
+two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
+coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
+the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten
+miles. The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics,
+which they seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That
+we had just quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for
+brigalow scrubs, and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered
+river seemed quite the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform;
+the banks being covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was
+sandy, but contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us
+to higher regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might
+fall in the direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin
+fish of the Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in
+the river to which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other
+sorts. There was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in
+particular, growing in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining
+bark of the tea-tree (mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of
+the eucalyptus; a HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI,
+but not in flower; a CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or
+at least closely allied to it, occupied the dry sandy ground with
+MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded weed; and some Cinchonad allied to
+Coffea, with young fruit, the size of small olives. Latitude, 22 deg. 23'
+10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at noon, 59 deg.; at 4 P.M., 64
+deg.; at 9, 37 deg.; with wet bulb, 28 deg.. (LXVI.)
+
+4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit the
+head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in any
+direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
+soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
+it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
+to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
+ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
+length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
+and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one piece of
+rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the rest,
+and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated
+flattopped range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
+similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
+woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
+still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
+eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
+northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
+these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to
+follow in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the
+horizon, I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to
+have found water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and
+absorbent. There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22 deg. 19' 45" S. On
+this day's journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the
+Barwan, none of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we
+crossed the Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly
+like mint, was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a
+new MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23 deg.; at noon, 58 deg.; at
+4 P.M., 63 deg.; at 9, 29 deg.; with wet bulb, 18 deg..
+
+[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
+excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis
+acuminatis appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis
+obtusis imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis
+globosis.--A very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII,
+Endl.: but extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of
+the copious slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the
+bleached slender branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the
+leaves had been, as it were, sunk.]
+
+5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my expectations, we
+had come quite far enough from the one we had previously followed, which
+still might have turned N.W., where we wished it to go; although I
+confess the prospect was by no means promising. The doubt was still to be
+removed, and, after a night passed without water, the earliest dawn saw
+us again going forward, in a direction a little to the eastward of N. It
+was only after pursuing that line for seventeen miles, that we again
+found the river, unchanged in character, and still running northerly.
+This was a trying day for our animals, as they could not be watered until
+long after it was dark; a brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber,
+having retarded and impeded the carts so that they could not be got to
+the water sooner. Nor had this been possible, even then, but for the
+fortunate circumstance of our having the light of a nearly full moon. I
+had preceded the party by some miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest
+following my horse's tracks, and I had thus passed through the four miles
+of scrub, and reached the river early in the day. On returning, we found
+the party in the midst of this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even
+by moonlight, to the pond at which we had watered our horses during the
+day. Many dry hollows of indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the
+brigalow we had passed through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as
+much as possible, through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs,
+many of which we were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many
+deep impressions of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also
+the tracks of emus. Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had
+been following a kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method
+adopted by the natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which
+is, to pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they
+overtake the animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at
+length so defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk.
+According to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much
+higher above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still
+it spread into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being
+sometimes in good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be
+more sterile than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first
+indication of the river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass,
+and we had to ride two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find
+the river, having been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives.
+At the first place we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water,
+under the shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22 deg. 10' 15"
+S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 61
+deg.; at 9, 36 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 28 deg.. (LXVII.)
+
+6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
+an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
+
+7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along the
+river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
+and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
+channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water,
+glittered before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger
+water-fowl shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to
+the northeast, as if our river had been either breaking off in that
+direction, or met with some important tributary from that side. I
+continued to travel northwest, passing through some fine open forests.
+The character of the country seemed changed. The grass was of a different
+kind, and a refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of
+water," as Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared
+still to be continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward,
+the more I was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at
+length approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found
+this was a river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as
+the one we had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new
+tributary from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had
+been pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too
+probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
+towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
+eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
+opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
+ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
+could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction.
+Their report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take
+a ride forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W.,
+and at two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was
+found to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still
+continued northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The
+STENOCHILUS PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet
+high, and in the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E.
+HYPERICIFOLIA, but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not
+glabrous. The DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy
+fruits, clothed the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude,
+22 deg. 2' 15" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30 deg.; at noon, 78 deg.; at
+4 P.M., 77 deg.; at 9, 55 deg.;--with wet bulb 49 deg.. (LXVIII).
+
+[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
+bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
+arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis
+densifloris, floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque
+tomentosis, folliculis oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis
+glabris.--Allied to G. CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves
+are narrower, not golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely
+secund: a splendid species.]
+
+[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissime pilosa, foliis pinnatis
+pinnis oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel
+incisis, rachi articulata articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis
+tetrapteris villosissimis.]
+
+8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first, northward by
+compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub, upon fine open downs
+covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil was soft and rich, the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias were strewed over these
+downs, which were very extensive, and from them I saw several rather high
+hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly over a low country to the
+northward. Supposing that the main channel would there turn round to the
+eastward, I proceeded north-west to examine the country. I soon entered a
+thick scrub of rosewood and other Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON
+NERVOSUM, previously seen (July) with rich crimson flowers, forming a
+large tree, in the dry open forest, with perfectly green spikes; also, on
+the branches of Eucalypti, a beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil
+was rich, yielding, and rather bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated
+limestone, or marble, appeared on the surface, showing that the
+improvement in the soil was owing to a change in the rocks under it.
+Again emerging on open plains, the country seemed to fall northward,
+which induced me to ride again in that direction, thinking we might meet
+with some river either coming from the N. W. or leading there. The open
+plains terminated upon a hollow full of trees, growing, as was very
+evident, on a lower surface. The hollows resembled those of brigalow
+scrub, and we soon found this tree in full possession of them. Dry
+channels, leading in various directions between N. W. and E. engaged my
+attention throughout the afternoon: indeed, they seemed interminable. At
+length, we detected some continuity in the hollows, leading towards the
+N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it, abundance of grass on the
+banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows hovering over one, raised our hopes
+that it contained water, as we also perceived a line of green vegetation
+over the margin. It was deep and full of water. Here, about 4 P. M., we
+were thus enabled to water our horses, and continue our ride
+independently of finding more water that evening. We next perceived an
+open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the country from it, we
+saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering the brigalow
+scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct, and I at length lost
+it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a direction in
+which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the mazes of
+another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions between N.
+W. and 20 deg. N. of E., the latter being the general course. During this
+unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where the dry and
+naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had come thirty
+miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark, that I
+found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and lay
+down to pass the night.
+
+9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded again
+into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous channel,
+and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a plain.
+Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very much
+resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found the
+river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
+ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
+We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while engaged
+laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives looking at us
+from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough to one who
+stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who instantly replied to
+my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It was a brief but
+intelligible interview; no words could have been better understood on
+both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we saw these
+natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had been
+turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
+while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was telegraphing
+with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some vessel with
+water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled, and advanced
+to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also that they
+might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green bough and
+subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us. Yuranigh was
+burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed him to throw them
+about, that the natives might see that we neither eat their kangaroos nor
+emus. I found the course of the river very straight, but rather more than
+it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts of the channel, lay
+deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other places, shallow
+hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the river's
+currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a grassy
+part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we had
+reached that morning.
+
+10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the north,
+with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove as
+rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great novelty to
+us there. About 9 A.M., the sky was wholly overcast; but it finally
+cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3 P.M.,
+having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower. There I
+found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of water,
+being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined to
+explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
+the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
+visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all
+very strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them
+carried three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and
+a gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts.
+They said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
+pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr. Stephenson
+happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then beckoned to
+the party that they also should follow or go where I had gone, or leave
+that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and patiently, by
+the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my man Brown,
+being very desirous that I should return before they departed; thinking
+the old man might have given me some information about the river, which
+he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation seemed to arise between the
+old chief and the tallest man, about the clubs, during which the latter
+again came forward, and beckoned to others behind, who came close up
+also. Each carried a club under each arm, and another in each hand, and
+from the gestures made to this advanced party, by the rest of the tribe
+of young men at a distance, it appeared that this was intended to be a
+hostile movement. Brown accordingly drew out the men in line before the
+tents, with their arms in their hands, and forbade the natives to
+approach the tents. "Nothing damps the ardour of troops so much," says
+General Lloyd, "as an unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and
+these strong men stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five
+men in line, with incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our
+three dogs ran at them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better.
+They all took to their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of
+their tribe; and the only casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which
+biting at the legs of a native running away, he turned round, and hit the
+dog so cleverly with his missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill
+for months after; the native having again, with great dexterity, picked
+up his club. The whole of them then disappeared, shouting through the
+woods to their gins. It was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they
+exclaimed "Yerraman," the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of
+these animals they were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much
+dread of the bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack
+the white strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but
+another of the many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight,
+without treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition.
+That they did not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when
+detached from the body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be
+set down as a favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for
+whenever they visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I
+was absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The
+old man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
+this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
+intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
+joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below
+that junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the
+natives, and learn something of the country to the north-west.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 82 deg.; at 4 P.M., 81 deg.;
+at 9, 62 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp, we
+travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
+main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
+connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
+this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which
+M. Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21 deg. 6' S., and which
+he supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
+three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
+to about 30 deg. E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21 deg. 30' of
+latitude south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the
+northward, at all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the
+height of its bed, moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more
+than 600 feet), that I could no longer doubt that the division between
+eastern and western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at
+the following conclusions:--
+
+1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
+westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
+
+2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
+the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
+greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
+3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25 deg. S., the highest
+spinal range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof
+Mount Faraday appeared to be one.
+
+I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head of
+the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
+as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
+marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
+left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
+being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
+good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
+which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
+pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
+occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
+the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
+exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
+plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
+Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves; and
+the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous among
+the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
+STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
+Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
+resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of
+LABICHEA.[***] Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at noon, 71 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 70 deg.; at 9, 35 deg.;--with wet bulb, 30 deg..
+
+[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
+integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
+glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
+attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty
+well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
+Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which Brown
+also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new species
+with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by Sir T.
+Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
+
+[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
+glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
+tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
+
+[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
+foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
+reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
+conformibus.]
+
+12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed themselves on
+the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads homewards, merely
+saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher point. The track
+already marked out by our party advancing, was so much easier for the
+draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they arrived at an early
+hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and travelled with ease
+three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the banks of which
+the grass was good, and where we therefore now encamped. The track of the
+large feet of the natives showed they had followed us this morning, from
+our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of burning wood they had dropped,
+showed that they had this day met us in the scrub as we returned, and had
+gone out of our way. Even to the lagoon, their track along our route was
+also plainly visible. I was now, apparently to them, at their request,
+leaving the country; and we should soon see if their purpose in visiting
+our camp was an honest one, and whether their reasonable and fair demand,
+was really all they contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 71 deg.; at 9, 65 deg..
+
+13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond Camp
+LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in order to
+avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without water, and the
+thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing over fine open
+forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the river on our left
+when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the water, and distant
+only a few miles from the camp two journies back from LXVII. I was guided
+by the bearing of 10 deg. E. of N. We found much of the grass on fire,
+and heard the natives' voices although we saw none. We crossed some
+patches of dry swamp where the clods had been very extensively turned up
+by the natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh could not form any
+conjecture. These clods were so very large and hard that we were obliged
+to throw them aside, and clear a way for the carts to pass. The whole
+resembled ground broken up by the hoe, the naked surface having been
+previously so cracked by drought as to render this upturning possible
+without a hoe. There might be about two acres in the patch we crossed,
+and we perceived at a distance, other portions of the ground in a similar
+state. The river had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked channel, with
+abundance of clear water in it, and firm accessible banks. It was still,
+however, enveloped in a narrow belt of brigalow. The shepherd having most
+imprudently taken the sheep to water when it was near sunset, lost his
+way in the scrub, and could not be found all night. Some thought he had
+fallen into the hands of the aborigines who were closely watching us; and
+it was obvious that had they got possession of our sheep, they could have
+annoyed us very seriously, or indeed, destroyed the whole party. The
+night was very dark, the sky having been overcast. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 56 deg.; at noon, 61 deg.; at 4 P.M., 60; at 9, 60.
+
+14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and high
+barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I sent
+Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
+shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 A. M. He had
+been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
+fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
+been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
+found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
+seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
+encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
+at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
+more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
+drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
+towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
+rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
+from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
+decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
+was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
+other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
+grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
+probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
+
+[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long,
+linear attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the
+other with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large
+forest trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
+
+15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we arrived
+at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course, (7 deg.
+E. of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to cut
+off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged me
+to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
+midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
+of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
+encamped about 3 P.M., when the rain again came on, the morning having
+been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 57 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 66 deg.;
+at 9, 60 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 58 deg..
+
+16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
+country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
+river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in
+our route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
+filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
+tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-
+tree of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There
+also grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered
+MELALEUCA, resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*];
+and, in the scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-
+like shrub fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I
+intended to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We
+thus left Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at
+that of LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58 deg.; at noon, 65; at 4 P.M.,
+63 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;--with wet bulb, 57 deg..
+
+[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
+utrinque acutissimis, spica terminali laxiuscula rachi pilosa, calyce
+glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis
+breviore.]
+
+17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen, the
+product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
+the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in
+heaps, or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of
+this singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered
+in any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round
+clouds driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this
+of Bunten stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been
+formerly encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from
+S. W., we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only
+on the dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and
+I could have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
+horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
+rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just
+mentioned, which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a
+laxative medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks
+were quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most
+parts covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in
+good time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
+ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
+plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
+wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
+evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 P. M., a wind
+from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+55 deg.; at noon, 71 deg.; at 4 P. M., 74 deg.; at 9, 68 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 62 deg..
+
+18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the sky
+was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved off, at
+our usual hour, 7 A. M. About nine, the western portion of the sky seemed
+loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a heavy rain
+began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of clay,
+which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much delay,
+at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI., and
+there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without intermission
+until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into mud, almost
+knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded, of water
+in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which was still
+to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river, flowing
+towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51 deg.; at
+noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P. M., 53 deg..
+
+19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
+brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the
+earth. The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I
+had thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in
+that interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I
+had ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
+gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing
+range, if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the
+parallel of 24 deg. or 25 deg., the fall of waters and of the whole
+country was towards the south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the
+fall was so decidedly in the very opposite direction, or northward, that
+the river we had just explored extended across three degrees of latitude,
+descending from a mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only
+600 feet above the sea. No river of any importance came from the
+westward; those we had seen, coming from S. W. What then could be
+supposed, but that the water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor
+was it less reasonable to expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river
+or rivers leading to the Gulf of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it
+seemed that the spinal range extended westward in the elongated direction
+of this great island, and there probably separated from whatever high
+land extended northward and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando,
+was therefore, to be sought the solution of this important geographical
+question; one result of which would probably be, the discovery of a river
+falling towards the north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The
+exploration of the country to which we were returning was, therefore, of
+the most momentous interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our
+time and provisions almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach
+the tropic line before we could return to it), I was determined to carry
+the exploration so far, with whatever means could be spared from the
+party, even had it been necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have
+lived, like a native, on opossums, in order to investigate that point.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at noon, 63 deg.; at 4 P. M., 63 deg.;
+at 9, 47 deg.;--with wet bulb, 44 deg..
+
+20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
+formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
+and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground passed
+over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every hollow, a
+great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect of relief
+from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes past 10
+P.M. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke every man in
+it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next, a blaze of
+light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass, or
+revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
+sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which
+a sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was
+such that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the
+ground, and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was
+very clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46 deg..
+
+21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through
+hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
+impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful for
+the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had hitherto
+confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country. We
+cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our journey
+was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to avoid the
+former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and much bad
+brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the sake of a piece
+of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most pleasant, temperate,
+and Englishlike, though we were still within the tropics. A sweet breeze
+blew from the S. W., and the degree of temperature was between 50 deg.
+and 60 deg. of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable, I believe, of any, to the
+human frame. There was abundance of water, and young grass was daily
+growing higher; many trees were also beginning to blossom. We were
+retiring, nevertheless, RE INFECTA, from these tropical regions, and I
+was impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to resume my
+explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a wild carrot,
+tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it, from the
+effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea already
+mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt whatever,
+that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The GEIJERA
+PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour of its
+long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, in
+the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood was
+remarkable from a perfume like roses.
+
+22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked and
+sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
+miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
+earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp LVIII.,
+and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of good grass.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P. M., 72 deg.;
+at 9, 43 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the
+westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it. We
+thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
+berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
+to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
+was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
+rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
+rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow. We
+encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a spot
+where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being very
+bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon alter the
+case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
+splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
+seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
+be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
+exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
+was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
+spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 28 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P. M., 75 deg.; at 9, 44
+deg.;--with wet bulb, 41 deg..
+
+24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
+horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
+eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former
+track; and in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above
+the letters N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line
+of Capricorn. I left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret;
+the weather had favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant.
+The three last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on
+these mornings at 25 deg., 28 deg., and 29 deg., respectively. Many
+interesting trees and shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we
+might never be able to gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled
+from Camp LVII., along our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23 deg.
+31' 36" S.; and there again set up our tents, having been exactly one
+month in the interior of tropical Australia. A pigeon this day arose from
+her nest in the grass near our route, and Yuranigh found in it two full
+fledged young ones. These being of that sort of pigeon preferable to all
+others for the table, GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it
+might be possible to bring them up, and, perhaps, to obtain from them a
+domestic brood. This bird seemed to have the shortest beak of all the
+pigeon tribe, and flew more clumsily than others. It had three streaks of
+white about the head, assimilating it to the poultry class; and in
+building on the ground, it afforded another indication of its resemblance
+to our domestic birds. The flesh is very white, firm, yet tender. It is,
+perhaps, the most delicate of all birds. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29
+deg.; at noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 46 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 42 deg..
+
+25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very crooked from
+following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I set out on
+the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a straight
+line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open ground. The
+blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees, were welcome
+to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded me of the Persian
+proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the eyes." We encamped
+a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better grass than we had left
+formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted of gravel; and
+amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it consisted, I found
+basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been detected by me
+amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P.M., 77 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 47 deg..
+
+26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
+shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.; which
+spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary; but I
+could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily journies
+short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges. One of
+the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but Yuranigh, by
+chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The thermometer
+had been as low as 38 deg.; but the birds had been kept in a box well
+covered with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of this
+camp, I found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having been
+first seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+37 deg.; at noon, 80 deg.; at 4 P.M., 81 deg.; at 9, 44 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 40 deg..
+
+27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
+along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
+right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view
+of the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
+firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
+hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
+I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
+elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
+
+I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
+on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward
+the east, at an angle of about 25 deg. with the horizon; on which side
+those slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they
+presented abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides,
+forming an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on the
+east side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay our
+former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
+eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
+camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was found in
+a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed of the
+main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the water
+before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+41 deg.; at noon, 79; at 4 P.M., 82 deg.; at 9, 48 deg.;--with wet bulb
+39 deg..
+
+28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the plain: a
+fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due southward
+over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until we crossed,
+for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray. Just
+beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
+LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although the
+pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a good
+supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a little dog
+of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it known to us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 40 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.;
+at 9, 49 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 41 deg..
+
+29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
+basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
+which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
+thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
+quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
+Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its
+course, with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries
+apparently larger than itself. All these lapsed into the same
+concatenated line of ponds; at one place, spreading amidst brigalow
+scrub, at another, forming one well-defined deep channel. For the
+formation of ponds, and the retention of water, in so dry a climate, we
+see here something between the ordinary character of rivers, and
+artificial works which man must construct, when population may spread
+into these regions. The fallen timber of the brigalow decays very slowly,
+and is not liable to be burnt, like most other dead wood in open forests,
+because no grass grows amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The
+accumulations of dead logs become clogged with river rack and the deposit
+of floods; to which floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the
+waters into new channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds,
+and completing the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams
+and reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water
+for a longer time than any single river channel could retain, however
+sluggish its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual
+drought, we had found abundance in this river's course, across nearly
+31/2 degrees of latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward
+obstructions to wheel carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad
+plains, and is very favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty
+of travelling along this river is greatest, where its waters are most
+scattered. Experience has taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to
+follow the river channel as closely as possible (the general course being
+very straight); and thus, open grassy spots and small plains are
+frequently met with, beyond which nothing could be distinguished, and
+from which it is safest to go forward in the known general course of the
+chain of ponds. We again encamped under Mount Mudge, where I perceived
+that a projecting portion of white rock on the summit, had fallen since I
+had stood upon it; and that the avalanche of rock had strewed the woody
+side of the mountain with white fragments down to the very base. In the
+sheltered ravine below, a curious new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet
+high.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+82 deg.; at 9, 56 deg.;--with wet bulb, 50 deg..
+
+[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissima subcanescens,
+foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
+depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA
+Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
+plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
+
+30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
+sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward, and
+goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings before the
+arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them to a spot
+where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite to camp
+LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the plains,
+than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found so
+difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
+eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
+towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
+direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
+the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
+covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once more
+saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with Yuranigh's
+able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed in
+conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
+range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
+the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
+(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
+DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
+ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil
+we saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
+leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
+MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found also
+a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 59
+deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P.M., 81 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.; with wet bulb,
+54 deg..
+
+[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
+sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
+primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari
+subgeminis calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine
+glaberrimo.--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily
+distinguished, besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the
+veins of the leaves, which diverge from the midrib at a very acute
+instead of a right angle.]
+
+[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis,
+foliis subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello
+calyce paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carina multo
+brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be seen in
+an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
+
+31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
+morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
+gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
+ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
+we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up
+to its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
+drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
+slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
+and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
+gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
+ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
+CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
+a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
+grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
+strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
+been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
+TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly
+of thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
+appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just forming
+its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
+MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about four
+feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet high,
+with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the beautiful
+TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite flowers.
+
+[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
+sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
+fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
+integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
+superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
+remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
+flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and stamens.
+The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a very strong
+smell of thyme.]
+
+There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
+entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
+eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
+valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
+to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
+grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
+from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs, about
+ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
+
+1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25 deg.. All
+prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
+was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded us
+at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
+clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar country,
+large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing above the
+placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a range to
+us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no stranger
+could have supposed these features to have been only the highest parts of
+such a broken sandstone country as that from which we had just emerged.
+The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they were nowhere level
+but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in white streaks high
+above us, when we first perceived them through the scrubs. These downs
+consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on which grew luxuriantly,
+ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the surface in general was loose,
+resembling that of a field after it had lain long in fallow. Herbs in
+great variety were just emerging from the recently watered earth, and the
+splendid morning did ample justice to the vernal scene. The charm of a
+beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and the songs of many birds
+sounded like the orchestral music before the commencement of any
+theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a place, was quite
+incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost boundless extent
+of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that of China, yet
+still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve, provided by
+nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and industry
+might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
+population.
+
+These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
+contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
+of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
+component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
+beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
+above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
+and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
+wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire. The
+ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a salsolaceous
+soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no geologist has
+yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have produced that
+rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly grew; or these
+wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red sandstone formation. One
+has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;" but this phrase
+admits of no easy application to such cases as these. Fragments of a
+ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles, apparently identical with
+those in the basin of the Darling, in some places accompany these angular
+fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a new ERIOSTEMON allied to E.
+BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby
+EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in
+the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical
+on trees. We encamped on the margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX,
+and about a mile distant from it, our draught oxen being very weak and
+leg-weary. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+73 deg.; at 9, 44 deg.;--with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
+obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus
+unifloris tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
+
+[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
+subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
+involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
+
+2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly mentioned.
+We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then made, had been
+much damaged by a flood. The little river was still running, and it was
+cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its sources, beyond
+which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in repairing our bridge,
+so that all things were got across safely. We ascended the undulating
+downs along our old track, and where many curious specimens of trees in
+flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I observed that no entire
+sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing to have been
+compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. Yuranigh brought me
+one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), which so far
+confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the coniferous character of
+Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance of other specimens, I
+am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of that description. I
+left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that the direct
+route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was rather at a
+loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the name of
+Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
+Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
+subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
+therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
+About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which had
+been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
+exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is
+to be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or
+sources are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and
+usually bare of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28 deg.; at noon, 73
+deg.; at 4 P.M., 78 deg.; at 9, 47 deg.;--with wet bulb, 42 deg..
+
+3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest hour." The
+thermometer 31 deg. at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of the
+magpie or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and the rich
+browns and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with its dense
+grey shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in the same
+state as when we left it. No flood had come down the channel of that
+river. The tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the old
+route, and bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is remarkable
+that in no case had they injured or defaced the letters and numerals
+marked on trees at the various camps, nor disturbed our temporary
+bridges. We cut our way through a scrub of brigalow, thus passing camps
+XLVIII., XLVII., and XLVI., encamping at a short distance from the latter
+of these places. Thermometer, at sunrise, 31 deg.; at noon, 74 deg.; at 4
+P. M., 75 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.; with wet bulb, 40 deg..
+
+4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the lake,
+had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a green crop
+was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our cattle.
+Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this day,
+proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to be
+left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
+river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before
+they had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
+the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on seeing
+us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
+judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
+with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
+had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
+curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
+instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian
+natives towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some
+of the uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
+behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
+themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
+stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
+them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
+trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
+make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
+still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
+crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on seeing
+us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions before us,
+and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great blaze
+there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody range beyond
+Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued until evening;
+thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous sunset, which
+poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky pinnacles, as I sat
+drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles northward of XLV.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.;
+at 9, 39 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 32 deg..
+
+5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a more
+elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy clouds of
+cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the last effort
+of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be driven much
+farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where this could
+be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged to cross.
+We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which well
+deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, were
+seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
+yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
+position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
+which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, and
+the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
+encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
+excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
+spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
+formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the purple-
+flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the pink-
+flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
+forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
+handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here first
+appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
+small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
+LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the
+foot of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with
+yellow black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree
+fifteen or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of
+ALL. CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high,
+proved to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A.
+CUNNINGHAMII, but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of
+flowers, and everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P. M., 64 deg.;
+at 9, 40 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 31 deg..
+
+[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis,
+foliolis glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis
+triangularibus glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
+
+[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
+aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
+acutis persistentibus.]
+
+[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
+elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
+subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus,
+spicis elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo
+breviore, ovario villoso.]
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
+STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--
+PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER
+NIVE.--ITS COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE
+VICTORIA DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO
+VARIOUS CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE
+RIVER ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST
+POINT OF THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM
+THE SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--
+ASCEND WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE
+PYRAMIDS.--NEW PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
+
+6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the horses
+for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all being
+leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during these
+two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of scenery within
+a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been assiduously
+burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This rendered the
+spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young grass was highly
+relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass remained to be set fire
+to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part of the natives, is
+usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise, 33 deg.; at
+noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 64 deg.; at 9, 40 deg.;--with wet bulb, 31
+deg..
+
+8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in writing a
+despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed account of
+my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that in the
+event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now to
+accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to leave
+it at this depot camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us, and a
+fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our intended
+ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky continued
+overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in sufficient
+quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to produce
+dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the 8th, 53
+deg.; at noon, 55 deg.; at 4 P. M., 57 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 46 deg.; and at sunrise of the 9th, 39 deg.; at noon, 77 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 70 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with wet bulb, 45 deg..
+
+10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
+Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant, false
+horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley, along
+our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W., following
+up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This valley led very
+straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three volcanic cones,
+which I had already intersected from various points. The other two I had
+named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three hills formed an
+obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to the north-west,
+and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land might be found to
+form an angle somewhat corresponding with the directions of the two
+shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to the westward of
+such an angle in the range, I might find what had been so long the object
+of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of Carpentaria. We
+reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my former observations as
+far as could be ascertained by the mode of measurement I employed then;
+which was by counting my horse's paces. On ascending the mountain on
+foot, I found a deep chasm still between me and the western summit, which
+was not only the highest, but the only part clear of bushes. A thick and
+very thorny scrub had already so impeded my ascent, that the best portion
+of the afternoon was gone, before I could return to the horses; and I
+resolved, therefore, to continue my ride, and to defer the ascent and
+observation of angles from the summit, until my return from the unknown
+western country, which we were about to explore; the search for water
+that night being an object of too much importance to be longer deferred.
+We, accordingly, passed on by the southward and westward of the mountain,
+following a watercourse, which led first N. W., then north, and next E.
+of N.; to where it at length joined one from the west, up which I turned,
+and continued the search for water until darkness obliged us to halt.
+During that search for water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so
+concealed and covered with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared
+from those following; and yet, strange to say, without either of us being
+in the least hurt. We encamped where there was, at least, good grass;
+but--no water.
+
+11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept, we
+found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well known
+to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after long
+custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we had
+breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
+supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
+some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
+We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
+perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
+rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
+feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were all
+visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The connections
+extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at the head of the
+Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these I was careful
+to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was higher than it,
+and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at its lowest part,
+which bore 26 deg. W. of S., was our next object. We found the range
+covered with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs. On the
+crest, the rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade thermometer
+stood, at noon, at 30 deg. 5' equal to 87 deg., of Fahrenheit; the height
+above the sea we made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we encountered a
+scrub of matted vines, which hung down like ropes, and pulled some of us
+off our horses, when it happened that any of these ropes were not
+observed in time in riding through the thicket. A very dense forest of
+young Callitris trees next impeded us, and were more formidable than even
+the vines. The day was passed in forcing our way through these various
+scrubs, the ground declining by a gentle slope only. We next found firmer
+soil underfoot, that where the Callitris scrub grew having been sandy,
+and we saw at length, with a feeling of relief, that only brigalow scrub
+was before us; we ascended gravelly hills, came upon a dry water-course,
+and then on a chain of ponds. Near one of these ponds, sate an old woman,
+beside a fire, of course, although the weather was very warm; and a large
+net, used for taking emus, hung on a brigalow bush close by. The men were
+absent, looking for food, as we partly conjectured, for little could
+Yuranigh make out of what she said, besides the names of some rivers, to
+which I could point with the hand. I was surprised to find that here, the
+name for water was "Narran," the name for it in the district of the
+Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the word for water amongst the tribes of
+the Darling is Kalli. That the "Narran" river and swamp are named from
+this language of tribes now dwelling much further northward, seems
+obvious; and, as the natives on the Darling know little of the "Narran"
+or its swamp, it may be inferred that there the migration of native
+tribes has been progressive from south to north; the highest known land
+in Australia being also to the southward of the Darling. The chain of
+ponds, according to the old woman, was named "Cunno," and ran into the
+"Warreg" which, as she pointed, was evidently the name of the river we
+had formerly traced downwards from near Mount P. P. King. I left the
+"Cunno," and plunged into the brigalow to the northward, thus crossing a
+slightly elevated range, where we found a little water-course falling
+N.N.W. By following this downwards, we found water in it, as twilight
+grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for the night, in latitude 25
+deg. S.
+
+[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
+
+12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 59 deg.; our height then
+above the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet. Continuing to
+follow down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a chain of ponds
+running N.E., and these we traced in the contrary direction, or upwards,
+as far as seemed desirable. We struck off from that water-course, first
+to the N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep low ridge of clay
+ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We crossed that low
+ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half beyond, met another
+acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also ascended, and found
+upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree having hard spiky dry
+branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to receive the charge of
+ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which formidable array we
+nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived at the head of a
+rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we attempted in vain to
+pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga," until, seeing a flat
+on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the water-course
+again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction, and contained
+some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river, whose banks were
+thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course of this river was
+W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N., and at the
+junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we watered
+our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills, three
+quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24 deg.
+52' 50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the
+ridge we crossed, was 84 deg.; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet;
+and at 3 P.M., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89
+deg.; the height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
+
+13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer stood at 38 deg.; the height
+above the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS
+river would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
+conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
+commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name; and,
+to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle. Pursuing the
+united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy plains. The air
+was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up, especially where
+the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were MORGANIA GLABRA;
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM with the aspect of a
+TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a new scabrous
+HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning by the
+natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry warm
+weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as an
+emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly imprinted
+with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the natives to
+attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the aversion of
+the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle: people
+who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they have
+thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted with
+their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
+these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old
+men and women!
+
+[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
+margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
+patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida,
+foliis oblongis planis longe ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis
+pentameris, calycibus patentim hispidis.]
+
+[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris,
+foliis alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis,
+floribus distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis,
+fructu subgloboso.]
+
+The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
+it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
+After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
+bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were obliged
+to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and laborious day.
+Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite puzzled Yuranigh, for
+we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and tracts they had set fire
+to, where trees still lay smoking.
+
+14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72 deg. of
+Fahrenheit; the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently
+determined by Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had
+laid down my survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have
+turned towards the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct
+northerly course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank,
+whence I had seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a brigalow
+range. After a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand curve
+in the river's course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found
+water near the spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not
+examined, and near which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a
+bank covered with brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after
+finding traces of a recent current into the river-bed at that point, I
+discovered, at less than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious
+OPAL--I mean not crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always
+so cool and refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of
+brigalow scrubs, a beverage much more grateful to our taste than the
+common "crystal spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and
+enjoyed a wash and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD
+in one sentiment of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water.
+Like "a giant refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the
+north-west, and passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very
+gradually, during a ride of three miles, to where I at length could
+discover that the fall was in the other direction. At this point, I
+observed the barometer, which indicated our height above the sea to be
+1812 feet. Fahrenheit's thermometer stood then (5 P.M.) at 86 deg.. The
+dry channel of a water-course had afforded us an opening through the
+scrub, and had also guided us to the highest part of the ground. The
+fresh prints of the feet of three men in the smooth bare sand, told us
+that the same natives whose track Yuranigh had seen in the river we
+traced yesterday, were now going in the same direction as ourselves, and
+just before us; for the smell of their burning fire-sticks, and even
+small portions of burning embers which had dropped, made this evident.
+The higher ground was flat, and on it the rosewood acacia grew amongst
+the brigalow. The rocky gap (in a ridge) was still distant at least three
+miles; the sun nearly set, and not a blade of grass visible amongst the
+brigalow bushes. But what was all this to the romantic uncertainty as to
+what lay beyond! With eager steps we followed a slight channel downwards;
+found that it descended more rapidly than the one by which we had
+ascended; that it also increased, and we were guided by it into a little
+valley, verdant with young grass, while yet the red sky over a departed
+sun shone reflected from several broad ponds of water. This seemed to us
+a charming spot, so opportunely and unexpectedly found, and we alighted
+on a fine grassy flat by the margin of a small lagoon, where stood a most
+graceful group of bushes for shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was
+overcast with very heavy clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected
+rain.
+
+15TH SEPTEMBER.--As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards the gap,
+and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld downs
+and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision, bounded on the
+S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by higher ranges; the
+whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in which direction a
+line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to the remotest
+verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the realization of my
+long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N. W. in the heart
+of an open country extending also in that direction. Ulloa's delight at
+the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed mine on this
+occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was impressed at the moment
+have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being allowed to make such a
+discovery. From that rock, the scene was so extensive as to leave no room
+for doubt as to the course of the river, which, thus and there revealed
+to me alone, seemed like a reward direct from Heaven for perseverance,
+and as a compensation for the many sacrifices I had made, in order to
+solve the question as to the interior rivers of Tropical Australia. To an
+European, the prospect of an open country has a double charm in regions
+for the most part covered with primaeval forests, calling up pleasing
+reminiscences of the past, brighter prospects for the future--inspiring a
+sense of freedom, especially when viewed from the back of a good horse:--
+
+"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede, A sword of metal keene--All else
+to noble minds is drosse, All else on earth is meane!"  --OLD SONG.
+
+I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the
+gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse,
+which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open country.
+The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless downs
+appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on emerging
+from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much open
+plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke far in
+the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were inhabitants.
+The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly PANICUM
+LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it, SALSOLOE, and the
+ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed the river downwards,
+the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon as if interminable. This
+river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no sand in its bed, which
+consisted of firm clay, and contained deep hollows, and the beds of long
+reaches, then, however, all dry, while abundance of large UNIO shells lay
+upon the banks, and proved that the drought was not of common occurrence.
+The general course of the river I found to be about W.N.W. true. We
+continued to follow it through its windings all day, which I certainly
+should not have done, but for the sake of water, as our progress
+downwards was thus much retarded. Towards evening, Corporal Graham
+discovered water in a small tributary coming from the S.E., while
+Yuranigh found some also in the main channel, where that tributary fell
+into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this was called, and turned
+our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees in grass half dry,
+half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field to-morrow."
+The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was intense; but during
+the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under heaven's canopy
+and protection.
+
+16TH SEPTEMBER.--The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly formed
+clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to trace, as
+if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine
+regions of earth. At 7 A.M. the temperature was 63 deg.; and (from
+observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to
+be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and plains
+covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right. Beyond it,
+we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in proportion as we
+descended with the river. Some were much broken, and appeared to present
+precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended westward from
+between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range seemed to be an
+offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the river, below the
+supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its character
+altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was, however,
+scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 P.M., at the only hole
+we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA PENDULA formed a
+belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the open plains, and
+many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the rose cockatoo and
+crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and SOLANUM amongst the
+latter. At length, we saw before us, to the westward, bold precipitous
+hills, extending also to the southward of west. A thunder storm came over
+us, and night advancing, we halted without seeing more, for that day, of
+the interesting country before us, and having only water enough for our
+own use, the product of the shower. No pond was found for the horses,
+although we had searched for one, many miles in the bed of the river.
+Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks bore testimony that
+water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it did through the
+finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen.
+
+17TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at seven this morning was 57 deg.; our
+height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us from
+"repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of tomorrow's
+fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had found us unable
+either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to Providence, however, we
+went forward, and found a pond in the river bed, not distant more than
+two miles from where we had slept. In making a cut next through a
+brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the river, in a nearly
+westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and turned again into a
+brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good many miles, N.W.,
+through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain of dead brigalow;
+and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at length, upon open
+downs extending far to the northward. I continued to ride in that
+direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a range of
+flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most westerly
+portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us yesterday.
+They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening country was partly
+low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we were upon. But where
+was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of one appeared nearest
+to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some well-formed hollows
+on that side the downs. Towards that point I therefore shaped my course,
+and there found the river--no longer a chain of dry ponds in brigalow
+scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra trees, with open grassy banks,
+and containing long reaches full of water. White cockatoos shrieked above
+us; ducks floated, or flew about, and columns of smoke began to ascend
+from the woods before us. This was now, indeed, a river, and I lost no
+time in following it downwards. The direction was west; then north-west,
+tolerably straight. Water was abundant in its bed; the breadth was
+considerable, and the channel was well-marked by bold lofty banks. I
+remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan plains, growing here, on sand-islands
+of this river. The grass surpassed any I had ever seen in the colony in
+quality and abundance. The slow flying pelican appeared over our heads,
+and we came to a long broad reach covered with ducks, where the channel
+had all the appearance of a river of the first magnitude. The old mussle
+shells (UNIO) lay in heaps, like cart-loads, all along the banks, but
+still we saw none of the natives. Flames, however, arose from the woods
+beyond the opposite bank, at once in many directions, as if by magic, as
+we advanced. At 3 P.M. Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at 90
+deg.. Towards evening, we saw part of the bed dry, and found it
+continuously so, as night came on. The sun had set, while I still
+anxiously explored the dry recesses of the channel in search of water,
+without much hopes of success, when a wild yell arose from the woods back
+from the channel, which assured us that water was near. Towards that
+quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon found a fine pond in a small ana-
+branch, upon which we immediately halted, and took up our abode there for
+the night. It may seem strange that so small a number could act thus
+unmolested by the native tribes, but our safety consisted chiefly in the
+rapidity of our movements, and their terror of strangers wholly unknown,
+perhaps unheard of, arriving on the backs of huge animals, or centaurs
+whose tramp they had only heard at nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"
+
+----"rustling through the boortrees comin' Wi' eerie sought!"
+
+our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or annoyance
+being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we hoped to
+sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally unexpected by
+natives. Latitude, 24 deg. 34' 30" S.
+
+18TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the temperature of the air was 72 deg.; the
+height of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank
+for some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing
+clear downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the
+highest clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the
+ranges intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the
+northward of the river, whose general direction to the point already
+fixed had been 22 deg. W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as
+far as I could judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the
+southward of the river also turned off, extending nearly to the
+southward. These two limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the
+river so as to leave it ample room to turn and wind on either side,
+amidst its accompanying woods, through grassy downs of great extent,
+obliged me to explore its course with closer attention. From another
+clear hill on these downs, to which I next proceeded, I thought I
+perceived the line of another river coming from ranges in the N.E., and
+expecting it would join that whose course we had thus far explored, I
+proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction over open downs towards the line of
+trees. I found therein a fine pond of water, the soil of the downs
+consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM and various SALSOLOE appeared
+in some parts. My horses being rather jaded, I halted rather early here,
+and laid down my journey, protracting also the angles I had observed of
+the points of distant ranges. Latitude, 24 deg. 27' 27" S. I found by the
+barometer that we were already much lower than the rivers Salvator and
+Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the Belyando; while we were
+still remote from the channel we were pursuing.
+
+19TH SEPTEMBER.--The thermometer at 7 A.M. stood at 57 deg.. The height
+of these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has said, that
+a situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where a man
+should hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a sublime
+position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted to
+traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to
+witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a
+man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being, and
+of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable position he
+can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few wants supplied
+almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he falls in with
+water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence alone; and
+this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible, in
+journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man
+seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and
+disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely
+inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may
+venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a
+brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a perfectly
+level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward of west,
+to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible. Bushes
+of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them, we
+crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a
+concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue
+clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation;
+and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on
+which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four
+separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both
+amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I
+might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill was
+visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only downs
+and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant view,
+which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of our river
+appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we found here. In
+that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river, where, in a
+general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels. The grass
+was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate channels
+seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine clear
+downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade thermometer, 37
+deg., or 99 deg. of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the shade
+of a small clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the afternoon,
+three emus that had been feeding on the downs came inquisitively forward;
+curiosity, apparently inspiring them with more courage than even the
+human inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds, our bacon had become so
+impalatable that a change of diet was very desirable, and Graham,
+therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the quadruped inspiring more
+confidence in the bird. It was curious to witness the first meeting of
+the large indigenous bird and large exotic quadruped--such strange
+objects to each other! on the wide plains where either of them could
+
+----"overtake the south wind."
+
+One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that evening
+being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not slow in
+seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed. There my
+men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who, although unable to
+eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating emu flesh, although
+he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM, for the use of the
+white men. The channel of the river was still divided here, amongst
+brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight. Thermometer, at 6 P.M.,
+86 deg.. Height above the sea, 758 feet.
+
+20TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 78 deg.. Water appearing
+to be more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its general
+course in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay to the
+eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as belonging to
+another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first encountered a
+great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a rosewood scrub,
+redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we found the deep
+well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward. The bottom was
+rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river also spread into
+branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon open downs. Next
+we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with yarra trees, and
+coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles further on, we crossed
+another coming from N.E., on which, finding a good lagoon, I encamped
+early, that the men might have time to cook for themselves some of the
+emu, and that the horses might also have some sufficient rest. Latitude,
+24 deg. 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 P.M., 86 deg.. Height above the sea,
+724 feet.
+
+21ST SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer at 6 A.M., 63 deg.. I found that the various
+tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater tendency
+westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward of where
+we had passed the night. Its character was the same--a concatenation of
+ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled with water,
+apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of the adjacent
+country. The course next turned considerably to the southward of west,
+while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about westward. I found an
+open plain between these, across which I travelled; until, again meeting
+the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed to turn more to the
+northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours under the shade of
+some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper, and found we were
+making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a very open country. We
+were no longer in doubt about finding water, although in the heart of
+Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon. On proceeding, we passed
+some large huts near the river, which were of a more substantial
+construction, and also on a better plan than those usually set up by the
+aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof had first been
+erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and, thereupon thin square
+portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond of water being near,
+we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the night. At 5 P.M. the
+thermometer was at 82 deg.. Height above the sea, 707 feet.
+
+22D SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 58 deg.. This was no sandybedded
+river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of firm
+clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much novelty,
+that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was nevertheless
+tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and carry them
+amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was curious. One
+plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were others
+resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with white
+turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS. Among the
+grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that formerly seen
+on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA PECTINATA, gathered
+in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst the grasses a
+PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly collected in the
+tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very remarkable new
+species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow panicle, and
+little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river again
+formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the wide
+open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we had
+indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely
+interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our
+journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had
+left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over
+the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with
+their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And
+so we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived
+at the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose
+impetuous floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged
+with drift matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of
+400 yards. The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal
+water lay in ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned
+with brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand
+the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down
+there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad
+a water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just
+below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort
+of a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the
+direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel.
+About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the
+broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican
+and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in
+such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them,
+as to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed
+diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces had,
+at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that,
+although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure
+alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes rose.
+Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole together
+forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two kinds of
+grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass, possessing the
+remarkable property of shooting up green from the old stalk.
+
+[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium
+plumosis, panicula pilosa angusta interrupta ramulis inferioribus demum
+refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis
+villosis, foliis......]
+
+The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their
+extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito.
+Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus
+occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found
+with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine
+gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine
+flavoured.
+
+I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked
+navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles,
+beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside
+one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would
+have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on
+a verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El
+Dorado of Australia. At 2 P.M. thermometer 88 deg.. Height above the sea
+712 feet.
+
+23D SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. thermometer 59 deg.. Latitude 24 deg. 2' S. New
+flowers perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their
+forms and structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted
+I could not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our
+provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had
+been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our little
+stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any
+privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed
+half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this
+interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack
+horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we
+threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it
+in portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The
+course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to
+stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the
+river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees
+on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river,
+but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We next
+traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay with
+gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen nowhere
+else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a river
+flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore impetuous
+floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I called it
+the Alice.
+
+As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the westward
+or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely variegated
+with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to the
+horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of this
+kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and water
+in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at 3
+P.M., 90 deg. in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by pigeons,
+and a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous that five
+were killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite, the
+wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no means of
+preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height above the
+sea here, 826 feet.
+
+[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.]
+
+24TH SEPTEMBER.--I continued to seek the river across extensive downs, in
+many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained, apparently as if the
+decay of that species of scrub gave place to open ground. I turned now to
+the S.W., and became anxious to see the river again. At length we came
+upon a creek, which I followed down, first to the S.W. and next
+southerly, until it was time to alight, when we established our bivouac
+by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24 deg. 3' 30" S. Thermometer,
+at 3 P.M. 98 deg.. Height above the sea, 688 feet.
+
+25TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer stood at 73 deg.. We ought to
+have been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on
+for our stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without
+tracing it to the furthest accesible point. We still continued,
+therefore, to follow the water-course which had brought us thus far,
+expecting at every turn to find its junction with the river, whose course
+had obviously turned more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a
+larger tributary from the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took
+a more westerly direction than the minor channel which brought us to it.
+We thus came upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very
+numerous tribe of natives, who appeared to have been there very recently,
+as some of the fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and large
+permanent huts, were seen beyond that encampment; and it was plain that
+we had entered the home of a numerous tribe. I should have gladly avoided
+them at that time, had not a sight of the river been indispensable, and
+the course of the creek we were upon, the only certain guide to it. Level
+plains extended along its banks, and I had been disappointed by the
+appearance of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the banks of large
+lagoons. On approaching one of these, loud shrieks of many women and
+children, and the angry voices of men, apprised me that we had, at
+length, overtaken the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come upon them by
+surprise. "AYA MINYA!" was vociferated repeatedly, and was understood to
+mean, "What do you want!" (What seek ye in the land of Macgregor!) I
+steadily adhered to my new plan of tactics towards the aborigines, and
+took not the slightest notice of them, but steadily rode forward,
+according to my compass bearing. On looking back for my men, I saw one
+beckoning me to return. He had observed two natives, with spears and
+clubs, hide themselves behind a bush in the direction in which I was
+advancing. On my halting, they stole away, and, when a little further on,
+I perceived an old white-haired woman before me, on seeing whom I turned
+slightly to one side, that we might not frighten her or provoke the
+tribe. The whole party seemed to have been amusing themselves in the
+water during the noon-day heat, which was excessive; and the cool shades
+around the lagoon looked most luxuriant. Our position, on the contrary,
+was anything but enviable. With jaded horses scarcely able to lift a leg,
+amongst so many natives, whose language was incomprehensible, even to
+Yuranigh. I asked him whether we might not come to a parley with them,
+and see if they could understand him. His answer was brief; and, without
+turning even his head once to look at them:--"You go on!" which advice,
+quite according with my own notions, founded on experience, I willingly
+went on. Even there, in the heart of the interior, on a river utterly
+unheard of by white men, an iron tomahawk glittered on high in the hand
+of a chief, having a very long handle to it. The anxious care of the
+females to carry off their children seemed the most agreeable feature in
+the scene, and they had a mode of carrying them on the haunch, which was
+different from anything I had seen. Some had been digging in the mud for
+worms, others searching for freshwater muscles; and if the whole could
+have been witnessed unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst
+the aborigines had been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed
+a strange attitude, which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the
+right knee bent, the left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but
+grasping clubs; the left arm raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya,
+aya, minya!" they continually shouted; and well might they ask what we
+wanted! Hoping they would believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two
+old pack-horses in counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire
+to let them know us more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at
+length, to hear their "Aya minyas" grow fainter, and that we were leaving
+them behind. About five miles further south, the perfume from the
+liliaceous banks of the river was the first indication of its vicinity.
+We found it full 400 yards broad, presenting its usual characteristics,--
+several separate channels and ponds of water; there, according to the
+barometer, the height above the sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at
+3 P. M., in the shade, 99 deg. of Fahrenheit. We watered our horses,
+crossed, and plunged into the brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a
+march upon the noisy tribe; who, by that time, probably were sending to
+call in their hunting parties, that they might follow our track. Their
+mode of killing a kangaroo may best exemplify their tactics towards
+strangers; whose path in the same manner could be followed by day, and
+sat down beside at night, to be again tracked in the morning, until the
+object of pursuit could be overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew
+on a rising ground of sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I
+saw the course of the river running nearly northward. Here, then, I
+turned towards the east to travel home by ascending the left bank, with
+the intention to cut off the great sweep which the river described, as we
+had found on tracing it down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any
+tributaries it might receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one
+containing a fine lagoon, and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most
+firmly objected to our sitting down close by the water, saying we might
+there be too easily speared by the wild natives who were then, probably,
+on our track; but he did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain
+adjacent, one man keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's
+ponds. Latitude, 24 deg. 19' 2" S.
+
+26TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A. M. the thermometer stood at 61 deg.. My horse
+was quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's
+journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed
+through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was
+grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of
+mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,--the fragments being much
+of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting, for the
+most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six miles, we
+saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that the left
+bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to the
+northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly
+water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped;
+resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most
+thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24 deg. 12' 37"
+S. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 92 deg..
+
+27TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 68 deg.. On laying down my work
+on paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way homewards,
+our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from us, and
+distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E.
+passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it
+should be required.
+
+It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants,
+the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the
+natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a
+few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire,
+each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the
+head reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and
+thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their
+occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no
+respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for
+washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in
+mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint that
+clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that
+would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would
+probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that
+sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do
+with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children
+of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but
+that the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the
+savages of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men
+on their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the
+naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean
+tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of
+similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only
+impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or
+however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What,
+then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to
+inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated
+man despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow.
+Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition
+of knowledge--the gratification of mind--the raptures of the poet, or the
+delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst
+civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that
+the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or
+gold as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in
+lofty minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is
+worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be
+said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my
+reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while
+protected from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how
+long these dreams under it would continue undisturbed.
+
+"The mind is its own place, and in itself Can make a heaven of hell: a
+hell of heaven!"
+
+Thermometer, at 6 P. M., 90 deg..
+
+28TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 63 deg.. The horses were much
+refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our journey
+in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs, meeting no
+impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches of a
+considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this day,
+besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according to
+its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and encamped
+on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had
+previously crossed.
+
+This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range
+to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and
+so determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature,
+Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold summit
+forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained data
+sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of the
+river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges.
+The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like
+sandstone. At 6 P.M., the temperature was 81 deg..
+
+29TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M., the thermometer was 59 deg.. Re-crossing the
+river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th
+September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We
+crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus identifying
+it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered with grass,
+and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange flowers, which
+grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the spot I sought,
+and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the sun having
+reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had been boiled
+before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon, in such warm
+weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have then been very
+good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had out-manoeuvred the
+natives, the weather had been so hot that, nevertheless, we could not
+"save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 P.M., 83 deg..
+
+30TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 67 deg.. I found, by my map,
+that I might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of
+18th September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the
+downs. We accordingly set out on the bearing of 51/2 deg. S. of E., and
+hit the spot exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so
+as to afford some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly,
+passed through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice
+crossed a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The
+water- course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of fine
+firm clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the
+waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of the
+country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river we
+had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from
+others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be
+rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to
+carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run.
+
+1ST OCTOBER.--Our track back across the downs, brought again into view
+the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its
+salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head of
+the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above the
+trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the
+salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first
+advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river
+this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded
+with the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a
+distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we
+at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes
+came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the
+horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our
+former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head,
+so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained
+the bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA.
+
+But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives
+could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more
+willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve
+a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into
+tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,--a river
+leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE
+SPICES GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from
+Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's providence,
+in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus affording
+access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon peopled
+by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal, and
+loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious
+sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the plants
+along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which lay
+about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen
+elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a
+half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA,
+resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr.
+Bentham.[*] We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to
+make the tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset;
+the moon was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for
+water, until we again fell in with our former track, near the place where
+we had watered our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On
+hastening to the pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days
+had dried it up, and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most
+unpleasant privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost
+vertical sun. The river must receive a great addition below this branch
+from the Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we
+had this day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on
+our left, or to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up
+the waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so
+effectually, that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus
+becoming open downs.
+
+[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus,
+phyllodiis linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis
+enervibus, glandula prope basin immersa, pedunculis glaberrimis
+gracilibus racemosis capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.]
+
+2D OCTOBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59 deg.. The
+height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I sent
+Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to contain
+water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods,
+welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the
+spot, where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our
+wants. For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all
+that was required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less
+assiduously, although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it
+under such circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost
+indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former
+bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour.
+Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts
+were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any
+of them.
+
+3D OCTOBER.--Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were again
+seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus
+afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their
+hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham
+succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped. He
+then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards us,
+when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark and
+number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of future
+reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again, into
+this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this
+bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight
+course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route
+along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us
+back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the
+figures 72.
+
+4TH OCTOBER.--We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the temperature, at
+9 A.M., was 79 deg.,) and alighted by the pond at the junction of the
+Nivelle and Nive; near where we had passed the night of the 12th
+September. This day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so characteristic
+of sandy soils, but of which we had not observed a single specimen in the
+extensive country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree.
+
+5TH OCTOBER.--Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass before
+me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost the
+first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted,
+and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the
+same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a
+position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head
+erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The
+deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the
+fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and
+did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted
+thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him, and
+was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a charge
+of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be despatched.
+This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly, about six
+feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before known any
+Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly brought the
+attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former circuitous route
+when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our former bivouac at an
+early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds, formerly full of good
+water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I proceeded to cross the
+scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction towards Mount Pluto. But
+some magnetic influence so deranged my compass, that, on reaching the
+crest of the range, I found that mountain bore nearly east instead of N.
+E. N. I saw three of my fixed points, however, by which, with my pocket
+sextant, I could ascertain our true position, which proved to be very
+wide of my intended course. It was, like many other accidental
+frustrations of my plans in this journey, an aberration that did us good,
+for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub formerly passed through, and
+also a rocky part of the range. We next descended into a valley in which,
+after following down a dry watercourse two miles, we found a fine pond of
+water, exactly as the sun was setting. This day I had shot a curious
+bird, somewhat resembling a small turkey, in a tree. The feathers were
+black; the head was bare and red. This fowl was apparently of the
+galinaceous tribe. The flesh was delicious, and afforded a most timely
+dinner to the party. A numerous body of natives had followed our former
+track across the rocky ranges we traversed this day, as appeared by their
+foot-marks, and Yuranigh also discovered, in the same manner, that three
+natives had this morning preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw
+none of these denizens of the woods.
+
+6TH OCTOBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 48 deg.. Height above the sea, 696
+feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the Pyramids;
+but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount Pluto, from
+which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked this
+bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively marked,
+71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series from
+LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando.
+
+The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and
+plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and
+myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced at
+the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I
+found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly passed
+the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses, the
+grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass had
+been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest
+sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above
+the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the
+mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much
+Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although
+well covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W.
+side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct
+the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides.
+The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I passed
+an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount Owen and
+Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the East, and
+some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just visible
+across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with Mount
+Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In the S.
+W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate westward, in
+abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as far as known),
+the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters. What that country
+is, was a most interesting point, which I was very reluctant to leave
+still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the westward of this trio,
+which thus seem to mark the place where the upheaving forces have most
+affected the interior structure of Australia. The temperature on Mount
+Pluto, at noon, was 90 deg.; and the elevation above the sea, 2420 feet.
+
+On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck into
+the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although it
+was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward of Mount
+Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke in the
+direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the party left
+there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud cheers.
+All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in high
+condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some
+curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so
+as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked green
+and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most refreshing home
+both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we had almost
+constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected specimens of
+XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple INDIGOFERA
+AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel, a hairy
+shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA PULCHELLA
+Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found on the rocky ground
+near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the summits of the
+pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills, were gathered,
+AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though, almost leafless herb,
+with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles below the camp a
+species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp., was found; and
+among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to, but probably
+distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn.
+
+The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed a
+shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having much
+resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII grew
+about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was seen on the
+sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there also grew
+the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small shrub six
+feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS,
+also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only two feet
+high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet high in
+similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still abundant on the
+sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the POMAX HIRTA, a plant six
+inches high.
+
+[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis
+impunctatis brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus
+leviter revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis
+trifloris folio brevioribus.--Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE.
+Detected by Fraser on Mount Lindsay.]
+
+At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA
+formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a
+small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer
+specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA
+ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the
+SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a
+shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy
+leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its
+silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of
+twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the
+beautiful LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer
+state, near Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered
+ravines amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with
+its four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high. On
+the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved,
+glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green
+flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in
+flower). The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species
+of ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage,
+relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of
+Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that genus,
+according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which proved to
+be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the precipices[*]; a
+new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new RUTIDOSIS, a tall
+herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved GREVILLEA, with
+yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with inconspicuous
+flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of Comesperm,
+about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or downy stems; it
+was allied to C. RETUSA.[******]
+
+[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis
+subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis
+falcatoellipticis v. oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis
+minute 1-2- glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo
+longioribus, capitulis multifloris tomentosis.--Near A. CALEYI and A.
+VESTITA. Phyllodia from an inch and a half to two inches long, half an
+inch broad, resembling much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.]
+
+[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis
+cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis axillaribus
+terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem foliosam magis minusve
+congestis.]
+
+[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis
+remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis
+longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.--A widely
+distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus
+(R. HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.]
+
+[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis,
+foliis rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis
+glabris marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis
+perianthiisque sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis,
+stylis glabris, folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.]
+
+[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis
+apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque
+glandulosis.--In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below.
+The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved
+outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA.
+W. I. H.]
+
+[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus
+pubescentibus glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis
+terminalibus, bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.]
+
+On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants
+which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from
+three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a
+small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet
+high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES,
+Desf.[***]; a downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner
+truncated leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the
+mountain, grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but
+with the stature of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or
+eight feet high.[*]
+
+[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis
+sphacelatoapiculatis molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe
+attenuatis uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus
+bracteisque sericeis.]
+
+[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis
+puberula, foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-
+oblongis spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis
+pluriesve longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.]
+
+[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus
+masculis triandris.]
+
+[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa, foliis
+brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis
+tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.]
+
+[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis
+erectosubincurvis longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti
+subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis
+brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix
+basi cohaerentibus.--Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are
+five, six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA.
+It differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.]
+
+[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime
+linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris
+subtus albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis,
+ovariis semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo
+glabro.--Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently
+purple.]
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--ASCENT
+OF MOUNT FARADAY.--RETURN TO THE WARREGO.--A NATIVE OLD MAN.--PASS BY
+MOUNT OWEN.--THE MARANOA.--RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.--ITS TRIBUTARIES.--
+NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.--POSSESSION CREEK.--A HORSE KILLED BY ACCIDENT.--
+APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.--FIND ALL WELL THERE.--MANY PLANTS
+FOUND THERE.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.--RIDE TO MOUNT
+SOWERBY.--FOSSILS FOUND THERE.----THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPOT
+CAMP.--TRACE THE MARANOA DOWNWARDS.--OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--REQUISITE PONDS.--REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.--TRACES
+OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.--THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT ST.
+GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A DIRECT
+LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.
+
+7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.--THESE two days were devoted to the completion of my
+maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the birds seen on the
+Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I had enough to do
+in my tent, although the heat was intense.
+
+9TH OCTOBER.--Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles, to
+take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined the
+sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious
+organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my
+absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone
+strata, and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of
+sandstone underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men
+were on very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be
+disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before
+encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly
+overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the
+heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was evidently
+discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain commenced to
+fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during four hours. Such
+a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I could not be so
+vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our benefit alone, I
+felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the cavernous hill
+the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of umbelliferous
+plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of the COMESPERMA
+SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind observed in September,
+it did not grow above one foot high. A small shrub grew on the rocks, a
+pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A Cunn. (from Port Essington
+and Melville Island); but the branches, with their leaves, are more
+stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker supposes it to be a new
+species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved plant, with long
+branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which Professor de Vriese
+has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural order of Goodeniads, and
+which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*] Thermometer, meter, at sunrise,
+60 deg.; at noon, 94 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 64 deg..
+
+[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae
+quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque auriculato-
+crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne appendice
+proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes, cohaerentes.
+Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium uniovulatum; stylus
+inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in nuce solitarium.
+
+Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho,
+itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero
+geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia
+Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus
+characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum generibus
+huc usque cognitis, diversa.
+
+L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis,
+petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide
+viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia
+spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi
+bracteolatis, corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis;
+paracorollis nigrescentibus.
+
+Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in Nova-
+Hollandia subtropica.
+
+Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII
+de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est
+teres. Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 11/2 cent. lata,
+petiolata, petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere 1/2 cent.
+longo, integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata,
+fere alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-
+lanceolatae, utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere
+10-15 cent. longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi
+communes 5-10 cent. longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores
+alterni, sessiles, bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi,
+limbis obsoletis; corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis,
+externe medio calycis instar hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis
+corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere hiantibus, interiori mediaeque
+loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera, filiformia, antherae his
+continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe.--DE VRIESE.]
+
+10TH OCTOBER.--We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in fine
+condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the
+reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and
+weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did not
+think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer
+sometimes above 100 deg., and therefore I was more desirous to retire
+from it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the
+summit of Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my
+map. Mr. Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects,
+while I ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above
+the sea. The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS
+ELATIOR, PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a
+villous form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow,
+closepressed leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the
+crater being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the
+summit. On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had
+arrived there at 3 P. M., the distance travelled comprising two former
+days' journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none
+had been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now
+beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its panicles
+of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four feet high,
+was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy variety of
+LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open ground; the
+ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open forest we
+found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA, a spiny-
+leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the EUPHORBIA
+EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr. Stephenson and
+I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that we only reached
+the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58 deg.; at noon, 75 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 82; at 9, 62 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis
+linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis
+nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus
+albopubescentibus.--Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves,
+which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and
+in the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a
+broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.]
+
+[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus
+patentibus vestitis. G. B.]
+
+[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25
+obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis,
+racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus
+ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.]
+
+[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis
+segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis
+pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis
+subtuberculatis.]
+
+[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis
+fastigiatis foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris,
+capsulis globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.--Collected by Allan
+Cunningham in Dirk Hartog's island.]
+
+11TH OCTOBER.--Following the chord of the arc described by our journeys
+of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warrego, I made the
+furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing
+through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us
+here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a
+few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.;
+at noon, 80 deg.; at 4 P. M. 88 deg.; at 9, 57 deg.;--with wet bulb, 52
+deg..
+
+12TH OCTOBER.--This day we also turned two former days' journeys into
+one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 P. M., the ponds at the
+intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains had
+left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our horses on
+the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of the
+HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the scales of
+the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, occurred in
+the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after we set out in
+the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley towards us,
+without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not until he
+had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran up
+amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop, when
+repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small bag on
+his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was grey but
+very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully frightened,
+which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained from him some
+information about the ultimate course of the Warrego, etc. We found water
+in one of the rocky ponds near our former encampment, but others in which
+some had formerly been found, were dry, and I was not without some doubt
+about finding water, on our way back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 42 deg.; at noon, 87 deg.; at 4 P. M., 96 deg.; at 9, 78 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 60 deg..
+
+13TH OCTOBER.--The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79 deg. here,
+where in June last it had been as low as 7 deg.. The sky had been
+clouded, but the morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in
+passing amongst the sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount
+Owen the day became very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On
+Mount Owen Mr. Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow
+flowers[*], and the SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink
+flowers. We took up our old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest
+of water. The ponds formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a
+deep one in the solid rock, containing enough for months. It was
+inaccessible to horses, but with a bucket we watered both these and the
+bullocks. The mercurial column was low, the sky became overcast, and a
+slight shower raised our hopes that at length rain might fall in
+sufficient quantity to relieve us from the difficulty about water, in
+returning towards Mr. Kennedy's camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63 deg.;
+at noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 59
+deg..
+
+[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis
+reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo
+longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo
+brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.--Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA,
+but of the same form.]
+
+14TH OCTOBER.--During the night several smart showers fell, and at
+daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather
+heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our
+former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the
+Maranoa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the
+large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th
+June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it
+might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent
+supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 60 deg.; at noon, 71 deg.; at 4 P. M., 66 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 48 deg..
+
+15TH OCTOBER.--Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was cold,
+the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The morning
+presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather being
+rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the men
+dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at first
+endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its
+course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that
+I left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former
+track. We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old
+track at a convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the
+camp of 15th June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had
+cleared up, and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing
+from S.E. On the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or
+Australian form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran
+before Mr. Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little
+bush at the foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like
+a hare, and left a similar track. It was about the size of a small
+rabbit. The death of our dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and
+drought, had been a very serious loss to us, as we found on many
+occasions like this; and where kangaroos, of apparently rare species,
+escaped from us from our having no dogs. We were, also, from want of such
+dogs, much more exposed to attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at noon, 64 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67 deg.;
+at 9, 57 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 50 deg..
+
+16TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze from
+east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little
+river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher ground
+grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four feet high.
+At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river beside
+that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and, early in
+the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next camp at
+Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry; but, on
+following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction with the
+Maranoa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin of water
+at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low trailing
+bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of a
+European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an entire-
+leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS BRACHIATUS,
+with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground near the
+river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the men eagerly
+asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern NICOTIANA
+SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.M., 76 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 42 deg.. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.)
+
+17TH OCTOBER.--The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point this
+morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In crossing
+Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent natives.
+From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII, where we arrived
+early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I followed the dry
+channel down to its junction, and found the Maranoa full of water; this
+point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We had this day
+passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also groves of the
+ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed drooping, from the
+want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing purposes. We saw,
+this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry forest land; and the
+purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA SPECTABILIS formed a
+spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA LEIOCARPA, and
+CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new MYRIOGYNE[*], and a
+small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt, glaueous leaves,
+tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an orange, proved
+to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**]
+
+[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti,
+caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis
+punctatis, capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.--Very different
+from any described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.]
+
+[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis
+crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris
+dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.]
+
+It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the
+brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be described.
+If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he knows.
+
+The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in
+seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may
+be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a
+precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the
+river. One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which,
+falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much
+hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man,
+leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to
+particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been enforced
+by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32 deg.; at noon,
+78 deg.; at 4 P.M., 79 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 45 deg..
+
+18TH OCTOBER.--The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and apparently
+dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the creek. This
+loss, when we were so near our depot camp, was much to be regretted, as
+we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and horse, after an
+absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days. We saw not a
+single native about the woods or the river, and were, therefore, the more
+anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives had agreed at the depot
+camp, now within a day's ride of us. We continued to follow our former
+track to Camp XXXI, and it may be remarked, to their credit, that the
+aborigines had not attempted to deface any of these marked trees. It
+might have occurred, even to them, that such marks were preparatory to
+the advent of more white men into their country. The fine, deep reaches
+in the river, looked still full and unfailing; and a short journey to-
+morrow would take us to the camp of the rest of the party. We this day
+found a little jasmine in flower, of which Mr. Stephenson had formerly
+collected the seeds. It was white, not more than a foot high, with
+solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful fragrance, and it grew in
+the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with pods, which the
+natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker to be the
+BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of Cunn. Here was
+picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the genus PIMELEA,
+with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and by the river we
+found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS.
+
+[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis
+sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis
+longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.]
+
+[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus
+pilis paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.]
+
+The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and a half
+had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long time
+to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained undisturbed,
+although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by savages.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 38 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P.M., 86 deg.;
+at 9, 64 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 48 deg..
+
+19TH OCTOBER.--The party was early in motion along the old track. Leaving
+the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country so as to
+hit the track again within a few miles of the depot camp. Old tracks of
+cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE, were the
+first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we see any
+thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging the
+river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even
+recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they see
+us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle.
+Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the cliffs,
+while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men heartily
+responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and was the first
+to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party were well;
+that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the aborigines had
+never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up; a storehouse had
+also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and contained lettuce,
+radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole establishment evinced the
+good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had
+collected many birds and plants, and had also been careful of the stores.
+The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown very much, and seemed
+a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse Mr. Kennedy had had
+with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my instructions to him, was
+curiously characteristic of the tact and originality of this singular
+race. On one occasion, when on being informed that natives were near, he
+had hastened to meet them, taking little Dicky with him, he found
+remaining only a female and her mother, a remarkably old woman, who had
+before concealed herself among the reeds. The daughter on his approach
+sung a beautiful song, rapidly running through the whole gammut. Then
+bowing her head, she presented the back of it to him, and placing her
+stone-tomahawk in his hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the
+tomahawk on the ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he
+prevailed on the mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was
+much more AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to
+denounce the white men;--her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if
+prophetic of the advent of another race, and the certain failure of her
+own.
+
+The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged
+parent, playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully
+protruding lip. Mr. Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the
+downward course of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point
+also, that the river passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she
+named, and even the Culgoa: she seemed to say the name of that locality
+was "Mundi." Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger
+wore, by way of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac,
+suspended by a cord from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the
+daughter, with a graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to
+the stranger, waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy
+and Dicky immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy
+Dicky away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:--"Sunday,
+26th July. Prayers were read at 11 A.M., after which, having been told by
+Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a
+native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky
+than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what
+information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I
+had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the
+natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first
+object that caught my eye was the bait--a gin, dancing before some
+admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by
+great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were
+gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him
+Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its
+general course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our
+impression was that he called it Balun. With respect to its course, he
+plainly said that it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the
+direction of that river and then following with his hand, the various
+windings of this branch; repeating the while some word implying 'walk,
+walk,' and ending with 'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyego. After this conversation he took some fat, which he
+appeared to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing
+it, and then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him,
+and (as Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men,
+who were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they
+obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite
+direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and
+disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking
+back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our
+tents, and that no white man should go to his camp."
+
+It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at
+most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the
+river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so
+long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it,
+as our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale,
+the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of
+the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August, plants
+had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had been found
+in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook. EURYBIOPSIS
+MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA; GOODENIA
+CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety of BORONIA
+BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the leaves simply
+pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new species of EURYBIA
+and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA? with the habit of
+Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose LEUCOPOGON; a
+species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was covered with
+wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA, apparently the
+same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling, but taller and
+less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed; SWAINSONA
+CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES
+DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with
+unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both
+perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM,
+with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves
+nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM,
+closely resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle
+of St. Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the
+Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****]
+A beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****]
+A new LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA
+VIRGATA (Hook. MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new
+DODONOEA in the way of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender
+flower stalks.[*********]
+
+[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis
+rigidis apice nudis, spica composita laxa tenui villosa, glumis pilosis,
+paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta
+ligulam villosis.]
+
+[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis
+elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis
+crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin,
+racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis
+multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis,
+ovario tomentoso.--Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten
+inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.]
+
+[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus
+radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longe
+pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.]
+
+[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis
+linearioblongis pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus
+paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris,
+antherarum calcare longiore loculum superante.--The foliage and flowers
+look at first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN
+EUPHRASIOE. The leaves are about three lines long.]
+
+[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis
+angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.--Young
+buds rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre
+having a slight tinge of purple.]
+
+[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis
+membranaceis oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus
+villosisve, calycibus subsessilibus villosis.]
+
+[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis
+patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis
+crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio
+triplo longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.]
+
+[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-
+tomentosis, foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra
+pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis
+fulvescentibus, stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis
+axillaribus unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo
+longioribus.]
+
+[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis
+elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore,
+pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis
+rotundatis.]
+
+In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS
+SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES
+LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.;
+CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with
+yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader
+haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA
+OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub
+with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of
+SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence;
+SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA;
+LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A.
+HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both
+sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river
+Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct
+from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill.
+PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf,
+herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A
+PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS;
+PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS, R.
+Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA; XEROTES
+LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, R. Br.
+GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it: exactly the same
+species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but
+smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS; BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA,
+apparently new. A new and fine species of MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved
+species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA
+CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM, with conical flower-
+heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple flowers.[******] A new
+species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******] Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 46 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--
+with wet bulb, 47 deg..
+
+[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis,
+foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis
+sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis,
+corolla calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.--Near M. AUSTRALIS
+Br., but the leaves broader and flowers larger.]
+
+[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis
+rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis
+glandulosi glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato,
+antherarum calcaribus loculo brevioribus.--Foliage nearly that of P.
+RHOMBEA. Flowers much larger.]
+
+[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis
+13- 15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice
+paucifloris, legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.--A low plant with
+much the habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller
+than in S. CORONILLOEFOLIA.]
+
+[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis,
+foliis angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos
+breves solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra
+medium inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario
+parvo globoso lanato.]
+
+[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis
+ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spica
+conica, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosa.]
+
+[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue
+dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve
+obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris
+solitariis folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-
+fido calycem 5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.--This species was
+also found by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple,
+sometimes yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable,
+monophyllous, broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the
+calyx.--W. J. H.]
+
+[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis
+ovalioblongis sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis
+pubescentibus, pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in
+pedunculo brevissimo solitariis geminisve.]
+
+20TH OCTOBER.--It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the
+blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the
+horses. I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles
+eastward of the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The
+hill consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were
+imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt wood,
+and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of wood, young
+shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire; showing the
+black scarified parts, and those left untouched or unscarified, very
+plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn, and were full
+of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed to the sun. These
+specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer parts came off in
+soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant, although they
+felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather isolated,
+but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's Pass,
+and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which forms a
+nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this hill,
+to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The
+weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount Sowerby;
+the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and amongst the
+grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO, perhaps not distinct
+from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 56
+deg.; 4 P.M., 87 deg.; at 9, 67 deg.; with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+21ST OCTOBER.--I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to which I
+had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle from it on
+Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show him many of
+the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was about to lay
+down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land, extending from
+the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about twelve miles.
+On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little PTEROSTYLIS,
+quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a new
+KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious new
+form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a new
+JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short
+axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley
+after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet
+flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the
+LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a
+smallflowered species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA
+PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4, P.M.,
+84 deg.; at 9, 65 deg. with wet bulb, 52 deg..
+
+[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis,
+vaginis scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli
+lamina ovato-lineari obtusa canaliculata supra pilis (luteis) articulatis
+crinita.]
+
+[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve
+mucronulatis utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-
+lanceolatis acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris
+petiolo multo longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.--Flowers considerably
+smaller than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.]
+
+[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris
+margine spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spica cylindracea
+disticha secunda, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente,
+paleae inferioris dorso lanatae arista recta gluma mucronata multinervi
+longiore.]
+
+[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus
+linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus
+subsessilibus foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus
+subtruncatis 5-dentatis, corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.]
+
+22D OCTOBER.--The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the natives,
+about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which, even on
+foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from the camp),
+and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES PEELII had,
+at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this river
+was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first
+followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy about.
+By following this down, the probability that we should find water seemed
+greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left behind
+some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water remaining,
+especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I therefore
+determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its course. We
+left the depot camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging cliffs on
+the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The camp we left,
+namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depot camp," will be found a
+valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first squatter coming
+this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the natives few and
+inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it very
+complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had become
+slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even, indeed,
+perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had fallen
+two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches
+lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was
+perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party,
+and encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly
+crossed by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats
+by the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became
+darkgreen not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not
+depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive
+as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with
+them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the
+grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of
+bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr.
+Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that
+the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net
+untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P.M.,
+85 deg.; at 9, 70 deg.; with wet bulb, 56 deg.. Height above the sea,
+1185 feet (Camp 76).
+
+23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
+drays, which only took place at 1/2 past 11, A.M. The cattle were found
+to be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
+Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
+Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
+directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
+rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
+DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid,
+with a denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
+(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
+were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.;
+at noon, 91 deg.; at 4 P. M., 93 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53
+deg..
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
+ovatiscordatis acutis argute crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
+pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
+calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J. Backhouse
+MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive range; having
+been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane River by Fraser
+and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All. Cunningham.]
+
+[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
+Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i. p.
+147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
+
+24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered upon
+an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank of the
+river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south. The
+cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
+plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
+twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
+whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
+route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
+higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not then
+suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course was so
+favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of these
+extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered as
+they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
+open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
+downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
+remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
+camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this
+was numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
+surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they
+will not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also
+enable the land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map
+of the country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the
+afternoon, and the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a
+clear starry sky, at 9 P. M., admitted of our observations as usual.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.;
+at 9, 58 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 47 deg.. Height above the sea, 1295 feet.
+(Camp 77.)
+
+[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
+integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
+terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
+broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
+and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20
+feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
+
+25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I had
+perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
+or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
+ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
+approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
+contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
+brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
+eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
+extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
+east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped
+after a journey of 10 1/3 miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
+south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
+with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our former
+route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
+neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
+country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43
+deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 94 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 51 deg.. Height above the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
+
+26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranoa, about a mile from our
+camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its course
+throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
+these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranoa on
+our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
+pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20 deg. E. of
+S. At length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the
+N. W., full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I
+crossed the main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a
+reach of broad blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded
+us of the Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by
+continuous ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like
+table-land. Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the
+banks of the river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract
+where the grass was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks
+hovered over the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring
+clement of whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of
+the bed of the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of
+the eelfish (JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed,
+elsewhere, in the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear
+circular openings, showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or
+two fishes continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed,
+that such circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled
+with stones, some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that
+this was the nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the
+stones there, and made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these
+nests, consisted wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way
+of carrying or moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what
+purpose I could not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at noon,
+83 deg.; at 4 P. M., 93 deg.; at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
+
+27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
+found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
+islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course,
+and contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the
+bush was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she
+had ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us
+without any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-
+forward course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the
+name of the river; to which question she replied, in his own language,
+"The name of that water is Maranoa:" thus confirming the name we had
+already understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It
+proved the accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first
+communicated to him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The
+gin appeared to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female
+wore no sort of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal
+who may have been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling
+about fourteen miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and
+encamped beside it. Thermometer, at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 68 deg.;
+at 4 P. M., 95 deg.; at 9, 77 deg.;--wet bulb, 65 deg.. Height above the
+sea, 832 feet. (Camp 80.)
+
+[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-
+ovatis trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-
+serratis, subtus bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet
+high. Flowers scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan
+river.]
+
+28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I most
+willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
+sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
+presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
+woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
+characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
+their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees;
+have half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like
+the willow, the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and
+I was informed by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives
+call it "Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in
+waterholes. They are too honest and fair in their fights to think of
+poisoning their weapons. The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly
+characteristic of its deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline
+resembling Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,--
+
+--"who dwelt about the very gates of death, Pale misery had worn him to
+the bones."
+
+Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 A. M., after which we had a
+cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
+for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
+dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.;
+at noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--wet bulb, 51 deg..
+
+29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so much
+ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to bullocks
+or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter want
+of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country was
+open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
+reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and
+drivers, had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and
+measuring twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this
+seemed only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain
+what was beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards.
+We found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
+main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
+to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped. We
+discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
+Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and covered
+with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face being
+rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan; for
+which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling those
+made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on this
+shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
+the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
+these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed
+for war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at
+noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.;--with wet bulb, 40
+deg..
+
+[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
+
+30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the dry
+channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of our
+former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of water
+was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which was by
+following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush would
+allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while we
+proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having halted the
+small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with Yuranigh, but
+all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a part of the sandy
+bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough he thrust in, that
+there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I returned,
+determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock teams had
+also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that Drysdale,
+having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had been led to
+the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the cattle had
+been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding water the dog
+was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We had come about
+fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on the map. On doing
+this, I found we had at length attained a point from whence, in case of
+necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if no water were found
+in the country intervening, the direct distance being under forty miles.
+During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found, higher up than the
+first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then to proceed
+prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the Balonne,
+but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would oblige us to
+go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P.
+M., 78 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
+
+31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they found a dry
+sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my first ride
+from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I was myself
+engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 84 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.--
+wet bulb, 43 deg.. Height above the sea, 882 feet.
+
+1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose beside
+Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded. After
+travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of inundation,
+and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for water, Yuranigh
+found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I encamped,
+resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be traversed in
+uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found rocky ridges on
+the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives in the
+woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the aspect of
+drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral country,
+traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I think this
+want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in that back
+country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance, the Cogoon.
+
+2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward, prepared
+to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water until we
+arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we were to
+traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the country
+appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel of the
+river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
+sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
+formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
+north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
+This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
+along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranoa. The
+water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line along
+the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
+country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranoa, a supply
+would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
+(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
+straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27 deg. 31' 37" S.,
+we again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 79 deg.;
+at 9, 63 deg.; --with wet bulb, 61 deg.. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea,
+969 feet.
+
+3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as I had
+determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
+Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles
+above that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through
+much open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris
+always appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length,
+plains again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them,
+after travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line,
+running north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on
+towards the main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from
+it, so that we were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a
+half, after a journey, with carts, of 261/2 miles. Here occurred the only
+Epiphyte observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts
+of trees in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of
+Brown. One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long.
+The fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than
+usual, at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an
+inconspicuous weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA
+TRICHOSTACHYA was there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a
+woolly. ANDROPOGON, which appeared not to be distinct from the A.
+BOMBYCINUS. In the open forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA
+OCCIDENTALIS, and on the plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new
+CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and a creeping plant, with yellow flowers,
+since found to be a new species of GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+51 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P.M., 86 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 54 deg.. Height above the sea, 819 feet.
+
+[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
+dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
+corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a
+distinct genus.]
+
+[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
+longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
+axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido,
+laciniis lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava,
+labio superiore fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio
+ciliato; flagellis folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula
+prismatica, biloculari; seminibus marginatis compressis; flagellis
+floriferis; floribus in axilla folii ovatorotundati, auriculati,
+subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10
+cent. longa, 11/2-2 cent. lata, apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum
+attenuata, subdecurrentia, utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia
+flagellorum bracteiformia, ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere
+auriculata, alterutra auricula multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum
+illarum axillis, reliquis multo minoribus neque ad normam perfectis,
+brevius pedunculatis. Affinis species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.]
+
+4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the satisfaction
+soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the majestic Balonne.
+This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames at Richmond; its
+banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and the merry notes of
+numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering appearance;
+especially to us who were again upon a route connected with home, and at
+a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen that route.
+We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey, of the lower
+Maranoa, a river which had brought us in a very straight direction back
+to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established a well
+watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in the
+more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark is
+intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranoa x. being
+marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
+cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
+felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled
+districts, and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during
+seven months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
+cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied
+it so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
+sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when I
+set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof, fly-
+proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of it,
+"LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 76
+deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--wet bulb, 59 deg.. Height above
+the sea, 738 feet.
+
+5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards Camp
+VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depot had been stationed;
+the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were visible along
+our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far these
+parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
+advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this
+day, we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
+a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
+running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
+until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
+tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
+accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
+then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
+think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
+of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
+both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
+articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
+their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the
+exploring party; and of the very favourable impression we had made
+formerly on the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of
+this river. In the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the
+ripe fruit of the "Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in
+flower that we thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.;
+at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--wet bulb, 59 deg..
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE MAPS.--
+EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS--AFTER
+SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM SENT WITH
+DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY CROSSES THE
+BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR RIVER.--
+TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET WITH.--CATTLE
+STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST
+SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF SAND.--AFTER
+SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE BARWAN.--A
+FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES NUMEROUS AFTER
+THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH
+THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--
+RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--
+A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE
+HOMEWARDS.
+
+5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of angles
+taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to the
+Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, followed by
+Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country in the direction
+of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of 1831; that was on
+the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29 deg. 2' S., and bearing about 20 deg.
+E. of S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" ponds, were
+said to water the intervening country, and I wished to ascertain whether
+they were favourable for the connection of our recently explored route,
+with the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, when my journey,
+undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, was accidentally
+frustrated.
+
+Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with the
+despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of the
+Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish maps
+and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from excessive heat,
+under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of the river were
+gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; FUSANUS
+ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which Yuranigh brought
+us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON MACULOSUM, was also
+in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous plant, has been determined
+by Professor De Vriese to be identical with the Swan River GOODENIA
+PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the cattle, proved to be a
+variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in February on the
+Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be the same as the
+G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R. Br., was covered
+with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy open parts of the
+forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high, with the foliage
+of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with short racemes of
+white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural order of Bixads,
+and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*] A submerged
+plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of MYRIOPHYLLUM, with
+tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub, was in
+flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit. A new
+ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a forest tree
+twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[****] A fir-leaved
+CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to five
+feet high.[*****] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the river-
+bank[******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[*******], completed the
+list of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's
+Bridge.
+
+[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+supra griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo
+longioribus, floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog.
+imbricata. ST. 5 in margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc.
+plac. 3-par. STYLUS simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus,
+verisim. carnosus.]
+
+[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
+emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
+fructibus tuberculatis.]
+
+[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque
+minute puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis
+glabris, glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-
+floris folio multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets
+are fewer and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are
+wanting.--G. B. M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste
+lanceolatis planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
+linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate
+between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
+
+[**** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
+integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
+
+[***** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
+lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
+brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
+contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
+leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
+yet ripe.]
+
+[****** M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra,
+ramis strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis,
+pedicellis plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a
+very distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836,
+but my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
+branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
+are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of M. GLABRA.
+G.B.]
+
+[******* I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis
+canescens, foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis
+mucronatis v. emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis
+folia vix superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus
+brevissimis obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--
+It has much the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not
+quite so small, and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
+
+15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than was
+expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
+Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
+horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
+project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
+settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
+north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
+within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however,
+cost the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
+direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
+magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden almost
+parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
+finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
+were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
+had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
+the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these gentlemen
+Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the new
+Governor.
+
+17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St. George's
+Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small advanced party on
+the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28 deg. 17' 51" S. The channel was
+full of water, and thus we completed the last link wanted to form a chain
+of communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the furthest limits we had
+explored. The ground was imprinted with the hoofs of cattle, and we
+already felt as if at home. The day was one of extreme heat without any
+wind; the thermometer stood at 104 deg. in the shade. Yet the horses drew
+the carts easily twenty-four miles and a quarter. We had passed over a
+country covered with excellent grass, consisting chiefly of plains and
+open forest, with scrubs of ACACIA PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the
+scrubs we found a new species of CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet
+high; and in the open forest ACACIA NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit;
+HIBISCUS STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus related to SERICEUS; a new yellow
+CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species of STENOCHILUS, with willowy
+leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62
+deg.; at noon, 103 deg.; at 4 P.M., 104 deg.; at 9, 81 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 67 deg.. Height above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
+
+[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis
+setaceis, foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra
+glabris subtus ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis
+oppositifoliis elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro
+brevi recto, ovulis numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--
+Very near to C. SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is
+more rigid, the leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and
+the pod (which is only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short
+stalk.]
+
+[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
+longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
+acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima
+dilatata subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--
+Leaves three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and
+clammy. Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of
+the corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This
+difference in the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing
+it into a distinct genus instead of a mere section, especially as that
+peculiarity which gave the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it
+not that the forms of the corolla are so different in different other
+species, that they will not furnish generic characters where the habit is
+similar.--G. B.]
+
+18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been above one
+mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of some
+decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot. The
+season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that between
+the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for visiting the
+tropical regions of Australia.
+
+Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
+species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
+less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
+MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
+of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in
+rich soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
+forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
+CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
+LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+58 deg.; at noon, 102 deg.; at 4 P.M., 103 deg.; at 9, 76 deg.;--with wet
+bulb, 64 deg..
+
+[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+rigidis mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi
+in petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
+pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
+
+[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
+foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis,
+pedunculis folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis
+campanulati dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine
+puberulo.]
+
+19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
+cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and the
+channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
+of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
+and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when our
+young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my attention
+to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white woman going
+with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he could ever
+have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was amusing, as he
+pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as something curious in
+natural history, to which my attention, as he thought, would be rivetted:
+but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome one to all the party. Soon two
+comfortable stations, one on each side of the river, appeared before us;
+and the neatly dressed mother of two chubby white children stood at the
+door of one of them. I had a memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the
+other, to thank the owner for lending him a horse; and there I first
+entered again under a roof, and a most agreeable cover it did seem to me
+after living nearly a year under canvass, in houseless wilds. These were
+cattle stations, and both appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose,
+and upon a scale more substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto
+seen in squatting districts. The placing of two such stations thus near
+each other, is a good arrangement, not only affording better security
+against the depredations of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of
+solitude and loneliness such places in general present; and in the outset
+of such a life, implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of
+social union, on the solid basis of mutual protection.
+
+I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
+obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
+near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104 deg.
+in the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58 deg.; at noon, 102 deg.; at 4
+P.M., 104 deg.; at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 63 deg.. (Camp 85.)
+Latitude, 28 deg. 30' 51" S.
+
+20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably open
+forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr. Kennedy's
+track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided back by an
+experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and fell into a
+cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where we fell
+into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree at
+this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this camp,
+the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong leaves,
+and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and belongs
+to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
+HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
+BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
+cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
+beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
+flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
+a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
+not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
+carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
+"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
+Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens,
+foliis cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis
+dentatoserratis, stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus
+solitariis unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido
+laciniis acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.]
+
+[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis
+longe acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis
+lateralibus a margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris),
+umbellis pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
+attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
+
+Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and the
+sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it on
+this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any reason
+to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the beginning of
+April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and inundate the
+country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so was the rain.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.; at noon, 62 deg.; at 4 P.M., 57 deg.;
+at 9, 53 deg.;-- with wet bulb, 53 deg..
+
+21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain had
+set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy day
+rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing maps
+in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
+recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
+a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
+prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
+change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
+so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that
+I endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For
+that reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous
+route of Fort Bourke.
+
+21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in Poussin's
+picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole year with
+scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so long been
+due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had fallen a
+year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much indeed; whereas
+it was now very likely to retard the return of the party. This was the
+only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded our progress;
+the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and we had still
+to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen the marks of
+floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining on my mind,
+that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out of these
+flats as soon as possible.
+
+On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
+waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
+until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
+drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
+lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
+down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations on
+the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water might
+reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a sand-
+hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected in
+good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and that
+we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by which
+the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground almost
+surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would, probably, render
+our passage out of that position difficult, even after the waters had
+subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam across this
+hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent the
+inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than sand to
+oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded in
+arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
+four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
+it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
+the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained
+above water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641
+feet, or about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to
+rise until the 2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day
+they began slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded
+from the dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began
+to present clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather
+was slow, and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their
+blossoms as soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS
+PILOSUS Benth.; a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again
+seen here; CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches,
+and very sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the
+appearance of a sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only
+on the 7th that a crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm
+for the cattle to travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity
+of quitting that camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us
+seventeen days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged
+us to tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this
+day passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until
+we arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I
+had been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
+the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
+however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
+direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
+That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
+growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A heavy
+thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I was
+under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
+journey.
+
+8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 69 deg.. Height above the sea, 782
+feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
+direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible general
+line of communication between Sydney and the Maranoa. It seemed desirable
+that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my journey of 1831),
+some miles above the point where I had formerly reached that river; and
+thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy, falling into my old track
+about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of Mount Riddell. With this
+view, our latitude being 28 deg. 57' 20" S., longitude 149 deg. 11' E., I
+chose the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 231/2 deg. E. of S.), for my
+homeward guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a good firm
+surface, for sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at the bank
+of the Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through some open scrub,
+chiefly of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small grassy plains;
+saw one or two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris. An
+improvement was visible in the quality of the grass, when we came within
+the distance of about two miles from the river; and open forests or
+plains of richer soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated
+the presence of the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed,
+we saw no cart tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle,
+apparently pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There
+was still a considerable flood in the river, although the water had been
+recently much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks.
+Latitude, 28 deg. 37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
+
+9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making preparations
+for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together, and on
+reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable place
+for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected without
+accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river at the
+same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the river than
+that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the number 87, cut
+on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want of such a mark,
+could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it should have been
+found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our stores and equipment
+were carried across in the boats. These looked well in the water; their
+trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret that I had not
+reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its channel had
+been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never were
+constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were creditable to
+the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole party was
+comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the Barwan, just
+before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had fallen several
+feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 82 deg..
+
+10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M. thermometer 68 deg.. The mosquitoes were most
+tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my tent, who
+remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em, the more they
+brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the fancy," of
+which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses, although
+tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus. Some had
+broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained by Yuranigh,
+that four other strange horses were with ours, having come amongst them
+and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh- bouring
+station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the horses
+at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone forward with
+the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus upon the
+"Maael," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of water,
+with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
+employ the boats. This channel was distant 51/2 miles from where we had
+crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the yokes,
+drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very well; "RARI
+NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats, and the
+horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an early hour
+on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be marked 88, in
+figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29 deg. 1' 20" S. This seemed
+to be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February, 1832, at a similar
+distance from the main river.
+
+11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 70 deg.. We continued to travel
+homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a direct
+line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The plains
+were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new CANTHIUM, was
+in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which Sir William
+Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely differing
+from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the calyx
+(not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
+blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a
+short beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
+THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS plant,
+quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous pinnatifid
+leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with stout
+needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met with no
+impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although without reaching
+water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect to meet with any
+watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir; which latter river I
+wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to meet with roads and
+inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become rare in this
+intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state, and most
+exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed through
+several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature for the
+distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here, each
+seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble in
+water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
+broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to
+trees or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the
+plains, the blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the
+eye: the rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines,
+a genus referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a
+new POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****]
+Height above the sea, 554 feet.
+
+[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
+racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a
+SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
+species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
+structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
+slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
+
+[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis
+basi in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus
+didymis.]
+
+[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
+subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis
+strictis longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique
+ovatis lignosis glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
+
+[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
+linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
+brevioribus.]
+
+12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 67 deg.. Passing over a similar
+sort of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first leaving the
+camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where the ground
+seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous, and cow-dung
+abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its smoke being a
+valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a little of it was
+burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious plains than any we
+had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised, with great pleasure
+and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell, distant 61 miles. This
+seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen laborious years, that had
+intervened since I had given a name to that summit. It now proved the
+accuracy of my recent survey, appearing exactly in the direction, where,
+according to my maps, I pointed my glass to look for it. Like the face of
+an old friend, which, as the Persian proverb says, "brighteneth the
+eyes," so this required clear eyes to be seen at all; even Yuranigh,
+could not at first be persuaded that it was not a cloud. This fine peak
+must always be a good landmark on these vast plains, and may yet brighten
+the eye of the traveller from India, when emerging from the level regions
+upon the Barwan. We next perceived at a distance, a cloud of dust raised
+by a numerous herd of cattle, and came upon a water-course, or branch of
+the Gwydir, called, I believe, the "Meei." As I wanted to cross the
+Gwydir, I crossed this and continued; met with another deep ditch or
+channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and, at three miles beyond that,
+another: none of these resembling the Gwydir I had formerly seen. I had
+ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to meet the carts, and
+encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of these two water-courses.
+The heavy drays were, of course, far behind. Latitude, 29 deg. 34' 41" S.
+Height above the sea, 553 feet.
+
+13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 A.M., 70 deg.. The drays joined us
+early, having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being Sunday,
+rest for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary. I found
+we were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we were from the
+camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in with some road,
+when we reached the country to which I had formerly led the way. At
+sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the barometer had fallen
+21/2 millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight shower followed, after
+which the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must have caused much
+difficulty and delay to the party, as we were upon low levels subject to
+inundation. Height above the sea, 499 feet. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 88
+deg..
+
+14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 76 deg.. During the night, and at
+day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
+appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 A.M. the sun shone on
+the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a channel
+of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and still I
+doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the Gwydir,
+having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I had
+however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
+and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
+plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
+extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
+these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named,
+in former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
+having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to
+meet at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the
+year 1831. Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7
+P.M., 87 deg.. The temporary occupation of the country by squatters,
+imprints but few traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible,
+certainly, but nothing else. No track remained along the line which I had
+so many years before laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men
+to look out for a stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to
+come to my tent, but not without some apprehension that the people he had
+come amongst so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the
+Anglo- Saxon race, in a state of transition to the condition of an
+Australian stockman. His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light
+straw hat about the ears of an honest English face, and the large stock
+whip in his hand explained what he was about,--"in search of some stray
+cattle." He had evidently never heard of exploring expeditions, past or
+present; nor of such a name as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was
+called "Cow hill," according to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland,
+but of Sydney he seemed to require some minutes to recal the
+recollection. He had come from the station of Mr.----, where he was
+employed as stockman. Came out from England about six years ago with a
+brother. When asked if his brother was with him, he said "No." To my next
+question, as to the rest of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and
+I pushed my inquiries no further.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and, in
+looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The lagoon
+was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank; but
+having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the master and
+some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were hospitably
+received. It was then about 2 P.M., and tea mixed with milk was set
+before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled eggs.
+Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
+sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
+much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
+eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
+Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded along
+a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led horse. Before
+we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt, night overtook
+us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness. The cart-track
+was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way without it, we were
+obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the shelter of even a tree,
+until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not above two miles off,
+but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the inmates, and asking
+them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his head, and said he had
+no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away from these "abodes of
+civilized men," to look for my old track, which had been traced along the
+base of the Nundawar Range, where the bold outlines of Mounts Lindesay
+and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the past, amongst clouds lighted
+by beams from the rising sun. After having been long in unknown regions,
+time and distance seem of little consequence when we return to those
+previously known; and thus the whole day soon passed in looking for my
+former track. But I sought it in vain; and was glad at night to turn
+towards the banks of the Nammoy, in search of a cattle-station. Since I
+had first explored that country to which my wheel-tracks marked and led
+the way, station after station had been taken up by squatters, not by
+following any line of route, but rather according to the course of the
+river, for the sake of water; and in such cases, the beaten track from
+station to station, no matter how crooked, becomes the road. Thus it is,
+in the fortuitous occupation of Australia, that order and arrangement may
+precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS come again." I arrived about
+sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the Nammoy, where I was
+hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it, who rode eight miles in
+twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and sugar for me, and who lived
+on very friendly terms with some old natives who remembered me, and my
+first advance into that country.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M., Thermometer 75 deg.. Height above the sea 750
+feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
+many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
+endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
+wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
+seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with my
+entire horse.
+
+The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of the
+richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
+river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
+eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
+amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
+mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
+station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
+reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
+comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
+taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
+permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
+welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
+with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
+numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
+tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
+sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
+she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
+the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me some
+days after.[**]
+
+[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
+
+[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
+medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
+trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
+served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
+surveyor.]
+
+Chapter X.
+
+MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.--PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE
+CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.--APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON
+HORSEBACK.--MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.--Of
+the aborigines.--CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.--IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR
+CIVILIZATION.--Of the Convicts.--THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.--CHARACTER OF
+THOSE OF THE PARTY.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.--THE UNFORTUNATE AND
+THE DEPRAVED.--Of the present Colony of New South Wales.--NATURAL STATE.
+--CAPABILITIES.--ITS TEMPORARY USES.--ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.--RETENTION
+OF WATER.--NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.--GROWTH OF COTTON AND
+SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.--THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.--WHEAT CROPS.--
+DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.--ROADS.--PROJECTED RAILWAYS.--
+Conclusion.--ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.--ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS.--ULTIMATE
+TENDENCY.--MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.--CO-OPERATION OF
+THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.--FINAL REPORT.--GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.--
+THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE TERRITORY.--PORT BOWEN--CAPRICORNIA.--GULF
+OF CARPENTARIA--AUSTRALINDIA.
+
+The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass Lagoon
+arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January, and the
+new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities to the
+most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent the names to
+England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought deserving of Her
+Majesty's gracious pardon.
+
+The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr.
+Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive
+(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light
+party on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and
+obtained His Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the
+river, and to apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the
+equipment of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle
+of March, with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare
+horses, with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen
+months. The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy
+was required to do.
+
+* * *
+
+Surveyor-General's Office, Sydney, 22d February, 1847.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my proposal
+for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small party to
+be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose to you a
+copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the late
+expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you
+will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions
+for your especial guidance may permit.
+
+"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains
+so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you
+leave the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the
+Balonne at St. George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and
+thence by the route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you
+will proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying
+tracing of my survey.
+
+"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my return
+route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far in
+looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the
+map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond
+Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on
+your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my
+old advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps
+(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warrego in the
+direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is
+very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can
+scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed
+as closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warrego may be
+looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th
+June.
+
+"You will next pursue the course of the Warrego upwards towards Mount
+Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide you to.
+You will follow up the Cunno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on your right
+or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my horse-
+track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish you
+would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track from
+the head of Cunno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively open, in
+the direction of my bivouac of 11th September.
+
+"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low,
+but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass your
+carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from
+which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but
+more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will
+have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher
+part, but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered
+valley, which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus
+far, you can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map,
+and following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he
+will no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It
+is very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the
+Victoria in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in
+which, should your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party
+is to be provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to
+your aid or assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall
+have reached the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in
+finding Camp (72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to
+follow down the watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the
+Victoria, and, as you have been instructed to take an expert native with
+you, you ought to find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting
+off large bends of the river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st
+October, you must keep by the river along my route back, and not follow
+the circuitous track which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After
+about four miles by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return
+track again crossed the outward track over the downs, so that you may
+fall into the route westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria.
+I fear you must depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings,
+for ascertaining the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th
+September. You will see by the map how generally straight my journeys
+were between these points, and how important it would be for you to know
+the situation of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out
+westward in the direction of my return route, instead of following the
+main channel throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the
+northward. Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever
+that may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map
+with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and
+determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and
+consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the same
+means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your guidance, I
+shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the relative
+distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore feet,
+either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average,
+about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing,
+you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon becomes a
+habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry about
+thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas would
+do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces, remove
+one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of bearing,
+you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of hundreds,
+ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each change of
+bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket for your
+watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this important
+purpose.
+
+"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of
+equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and
+allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You
+may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so
+obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will,
+after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure,
+adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different
+latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find
+the results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the
+variation of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or
+west, and when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with
+the rate of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude.
+You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that
+may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be
+ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of
+reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of
+the flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in
+a small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the
+determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a
+convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the
+accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view,
+without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally spread
+into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as a
+general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any
+scarcity of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more
+speedily accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you
+would cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the
+west. On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have
+particularly to caution you against remaining longer than may be
+unavoidable there, or, indeed, in any one place, in any part of your
+route, where natives may be numerous.
+
+"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it
+will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off
+angles, by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and
+when so returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the
+route and the country may be better described by you, and recognised
+afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on
+trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence
+them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus
+avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the
+Victoria.
+
+"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in
+charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your
+journey.
+
+"I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant,
+
+"T. L. MITCHELL, SURVEYOR-GENERAL.
+
+"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P. Assistant Surveyor, Sydney."
+
+OF THE ABORIGINES.
+
+There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less
+understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal
+natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity,
+yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and judgment
+to the white men composing my party. Their means of subsistence and their
+habits, are both extremely simple; but they are adjusted with admirable
+fitness to the few resources afforded by such a country, in its wild
+state. What these resources are, and how they are economised by the
+natives, can only be learnt by an extensive acquaintance with the
+interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts, bearing on this
+subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest. Fire, grass, kangaroos,
+and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on each other for existence in
+Australia; for any one of these being wanting, the others could no longer
+continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass, and form those open
+forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo; the native applies
+that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a young green
+crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable him to kill or
+take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of long grass also
+discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females and children,
+who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple process, the
+Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle as those of New
+Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which the white men
+now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the kangaroo, which
+is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony where cattle run.
+The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to produce the
+extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of existence; and
+this must work such extensive changes in Australia as never entered into
+the contemplation of the local authorities. The squatters, it is true,
+have also been obliged to burn the old grass occasionally on their runs;
+but so little has this been understood by the Imperial Government that an
+order against the burning of the grass was once sent out, on the
+representations of a traveller in the south. The omission of the annual
+periodical burning by natives, of the grass and young saplings, has
+already produced in the open forest lands nearest to Sydney, thick
+forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might gallop without
+impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos are no longer to be
+seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither are there natives
+to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there amongst the fences
+of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the white race seems
+thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation of the
+aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any adverse
+feelings these may show towards the white men, that these consequences,
+although so little considered by the intruders, must be obvious to the
+natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter on their
+territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of the
+natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of
+aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors
+of aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race
+has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency
+still more destructive.
+
+It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to
+be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel
+disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle
+or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos
+from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers;
+but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly
+because much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or
+cattle. No orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of
+these atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal
+obedience to injunctions from home, and the policy of the local
+authorities has not been influenced by less humane motives.
+
+It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for
+one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor,
+and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of
+Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth
+Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and
+resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary
+to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback.
+Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of all
+the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and quick
+ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though
+uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards
+the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the
+willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself
+before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean
+in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair,
+always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent appearance.
+He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on returning to
+Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never before seen houses,
+and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the theatre, and whatever
+else was likely to gratify his curiosity. The boy was all questions and
+observation. I was at a loss how to make these natives comfortable; or
+suitably reward their services. The new Governor kindly granted the small
+gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and Dicky became a favourite in my family.
+Both these natives loathed the idea of returning to the woods, as
+savages; and, as if captivated with the scenes of activity around them,
+both expressed a desire "to work and live like white men." This shows
+that, when treated on a footing of equality, as these had been in my
+party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to take part in the labours
+of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old freedom of the bush
+seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts them back to it.
+Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular agreement,) as
+stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and he took an
+affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in the country,
+with the intention of having him educated there with my children,
+provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I left the
+colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate an
+aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children
+should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon
+which the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly
+tried.
+
+This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much
+interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the
+married couple to another country, where the children might be educated,
+and kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of
+sending such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of
+Europe, where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the
+grape, fig, and olive, as well as the management of other productions of
+similar latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with
+their family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different
+language from those about them, they would be less open to the influences
+that interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony;
+while the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it.
+Were this experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition
+afforded by industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation,
+and inspire them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the
+white men, which, without having some such examples set before them, must
+seem to them unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a
+degraded position in the presence of the white population: a mere
+outcast, obliged to beg a little bread. In his native woods, the "noble
+savage" knows no such degrading necessity.--All there participate in, and
+have a share of, Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open
+to all. Experience here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of
+other countries has shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as
+free as Nature first made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and
+come under all the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from
+choice, unless they can do so on terms of the most perfect equality.
+Surely it behoves the nation so active in the suppression of slavery to
+consider betimes, in taking up new countries, how the aboriginal races
+can be preserved; and how the evil effects of spirituous liquors, of
+gunpowder, and of diseases more inimical to them than even slavery, may
+be counteracted.
+
+OF THE CONVICTS.
+
+The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring
+parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were
+chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had acquired
+good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on this last
+occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part chosen from
+amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst and most
+irreclaimable of their class.
+
+The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to
+follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous
+surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as
+labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to
+lay the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great
+advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on
+the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of war-
+steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and private
+enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so essential to
+an important harbour, had not the Government always possessed the means
+of cheaply constructing such a work by convict labour, and been thus able
+at any time to have entered into such competition as might have been very
+injurious to a private speculator. At Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths,
+shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work in their various avocations; all
+the shoes, for both the men and horses of the expedition, were made
+there; also one half of the carts, which proved equally good as the other
+portion, although that was made by the best maker in the colony, a
+celebrated man.
+
+The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on Cockatoo
+Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such that even the
+most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts, and seemed to
+wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the superintendent.
+The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of good behaviour in
+the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul amongst these
+prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims and pretensions,
+which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly investigated by
+Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the visiting
+magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at length
+made, after careful examination of the phrenological developments and
+police history of each; and it was not easy to find one without a
+catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office annals.
+Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by physical
+developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party from
+amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful Irishmen,
+on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old followers on
+former journeys, who had become free.
+
+This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to
+behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be supposed
+to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the convict
+character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have been made
+to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year, away from
+all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was chiefly because
+these men were placed in a position where it was so very clearly for
+their own interest to conduct themselves properly. Accordingly, the
+greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the highest
+satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring hardships,
+and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to do anything
+to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still there were
+a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party, animated by
+such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true character, nor even
+disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the achievement of their
+liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as the "flash mob." They
+spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever intent on robbing the
+stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS). They held it to be wrong
+to exert themselves at any work, if it could be avoided; and would not be
+seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation. They kept themselves
+out of sight as much as possible; neglected their arms; shot away their
+ammunition contrary to orders; and ate in secret, whatever they did kill,
+or whatever fish they caught.
+
+Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two promising
+men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of them was
+finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious that the
+men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs even, express
+sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and still
+susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they cannot
+afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence against
+the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys, with
+whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or
+HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever
+"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed and
+more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be so
+arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in
+their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the
+stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded by
+savage tribes in the interior.
+
+Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a wide
+difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen flour,
+refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my younger
+days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life." Convicts,
+in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one,
+fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was
+the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose
+principle of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose
+reformation, there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class,
+repented of their crime from the moment of conviction; those of the
+other, know no such word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing
+of hope and change;" and would eagerly avail himself of every means
+afforded him to regain the position he had lost; the other, true to his
+"order," will "die game." For the separation of the wheat from the chaff,
+a process by no means difficult, the colony of New South Wales was
+formerly well adapted. The ticket of leave granted to the deserving
+convict was one of the most perfect of reformatory indulgences; each
+individual being known to the authorities, and liable, on the least
+misconduct, to be sent to work on the public roads. The colony of New
+South Wales has been the means of restoring many of our unfortunate
+countrymen to positions in which they have shown that loyalty, industry,
+public spirit, and patriotism, are not always to be extinguished in the
+breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters and degradation. It is to be
+regretted that a more vigilant discrimination had not interposed a more
+marked line between those convicts deserving emancipation, and those
+whose services are still wanted on the roads and bridges of the colony.
+
+OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
+
+There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to render
+it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South Wales or
+Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or, at least,
+such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters' condition
+is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country without
+navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to uncertain
+seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social intercourse,
+and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man. With equal
+truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth susceptible
+of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity of man. If
+there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome savannas; if there
+are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of forming reservoirs
+of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain may fall, it is
+certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of man alone is
+wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such a clime,
+and under such a sun, that most important of elements in cultivation,
+water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to man's use than it
+is in other warm regions, where, if the general vegetation be more
+luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water for all purposes
+of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the command of art and
+industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the peculiar
+disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as would
+greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of human
+industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water would be
+found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and adjusted, by
+such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but the natural
+product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural resources
+exist, but require art and industry for their development, the field is
+open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable investment
+of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New South Wales.
+
+But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too
+much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet
+adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying
+and adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which
+deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been
+corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the
+natural fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in
+favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable,
+perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for
+that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the
+structure of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a
+small number of these might be made to retain as much of the surface
+water as might even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because
+the channels of rivers are in general confined by high banks, within
+which many, or indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into
+canals. To such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied,
+had it been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to
+work together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere
+facilities for constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill,
+and thus afford means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not
+labour now too scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in
+a manner suitable to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation.
+
+The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which
+supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well
+adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour,
+nothing could prevent these regions from being made extensively
+productive of both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to
+be ascertained whether some parts of the country may not be made as
+productive as Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of
+latitude, in the opposite hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the
+development of every branch of production derivable from industry in
+these regions.
+
+[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the
+Society of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever
+produced, I believe, in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid,
+superintendent of the Botanic garden at Sydney, from olives grown there,
+and seemed very clear and good.]
+
+Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and
+upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior quality;
+and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these districts and
+the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict labour, the
+progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and climate, and,
+as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had been much more
+advanced than it is there.
+
+The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be opened,
+have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is, therefore,
+the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible introduction
+of railways with much interest. In a country like that around Sydney,
+where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by roads in
+order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the value and
+importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and calculations have
+been made to show that a railway between Sydney and the southern
+districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along that line.
+The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open undulating
+country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly growing into
+importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway, between that
+town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive tracts of
+valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a sort of
+centre.
+
+On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best
+lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has,
+of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the
+rural districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals
+who had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the
+assistance of settlers in the country.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years ago,
+a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The location of
+settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms, then much in
+arrear, and the division of the territory into counties, hundreds, and
+parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to settlers, altogether
+rendered necessary a general survey of the colony, which work I commenced
+in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal Instructions, sent to the
+colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827 and 1837 was the most
+prosperous in the history of the colony of New South Wales, when convicts
+made good roads, farms were measured up, and the country was surveyed and
+divided into countries. Colonization extended rapidly to the shores of
+the southern ocean, and Australia Felix was made known to the British
+public.
+
+The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the
+direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent,
+however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate
+tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole intervening
+country. My plans of exploration have been governed by these views and
+objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was intended to complete
+the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One led across the Blue
+mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far as the land seemed
+worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia Felix and the southern
+coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to the northern shores
+at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria,--from which I
+trust that by this time my assistant Mr. Kennedy will have returned to
+Sydney.
+
+Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a duty[*],
+I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan which
+must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled me to
+bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years, and in
+the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at the
+command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British
+Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the
+benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that
+this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the
+petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly
+at the expense of the colony of New South Wales.
+
+[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.]
+
+It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words, to
+point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be available
+for the economical extension of that colonisation which the expansive
+energies of this great nation seem to require. New South Wales may be
+benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional market on
+the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was
+necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most
+eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast. It is now
+ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements from the
+open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25 deg.
+south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table
+Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;--a country but
+lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy access
+to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the intervention
+of any such formidable barrier between that interior open country and the
+coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony. Precisely on that
+part of the coast, to which the united channels of the water lead, a
+harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent naval officers.
+These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to define one
+situation more favourable than any other that might be found along that
+coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide almost equally
+the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I allude to Port
+Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has been (I believe)
+called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of the coast, at
+the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to steam navigation.
+The occupation of the fine country on the rivers Victoria, Salvator and
+Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for supplies; and on the
+occupation of that back-country must again, in a great measure, depend
+the establishment of a direct line of communication between Sydney and
+the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of
+route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon
+require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a
+commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which might, by
+degrees, become an important town; where horses might be shipped and
+conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards of Torres
+Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible description by
+Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's Island, being both
+higher than the main land, might be connected with it, by some permanent
+work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and shelter and anchorage
+for other ships. According to the interesting narrative of Captain
+Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and convict labour might there
+be very usefully employed upon such works. The head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian Ocean nearest to Sydney, has
+appeared of more importance to the colonists, since steam navigation
+became regular between England and the Indian archipelago. Then it became
+more desirable for the colonists to know the nature of the interior
+country between their capital and that northern coast. The interior has
+been found very open and accessible; the fine country at the head of the
+Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus divide the whole distance into
+two equal parts, each of these not much exceeding the distance between
+Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia Felix; between which places mail-
+carriages now run twice a week. Thus, while, by the extension of
+geographical research, the proper fields for colonization are laid open
+for selection, and prepared for timely arrangements on the part of the
+Imperial Government; the colonists of New South Wales have promoted the
+general interests of their fellow subjects at home, by the developement
+of the resources of the territory around them.
+
+He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed the
+earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two
+elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the
+East Coast range--the one affording the nearest access to an important
+sea, the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with
+deference to Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through
+the Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive
+names on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the
+country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25 deg. South, where
+nature has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia,
+the country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian
+archipelago; which two regions may be made conterminous according to
+natural limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales. No.
+30/1252. Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.
+
+Sir,
+
+I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to
+inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been
+pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the
+office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of
+the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their
+duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who,
+with the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all
+arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant,
+
+ALEX. M'LEAY.
+
+To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire, Surveyor-General.
+
+* * * * *
+
+A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING
+JOURNEY.
+
+THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW.
+
+[numerals refer to page numbers in the book]
+
+FERNS.
+
+Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212. ----assimile, 204. 212. Nothochlaena
+distans, 212. Grammitis rutaefolia, 212. Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212.
+Doodia caudata, 212. Platyzoma microphyllum, 236.
+
+GRASSES.
+
+Aristida calycina, 33. Arundo Phragmites, 124. * Anthistiria membranacea,
+LINDL. 88. ----australis PASSIM. ----sp. 97. Andropogon sericeus, 62.
+----bombycinus, 378. ----sp. 117. Bromus australis, 61. * Chloris
+selerantha, LINDL. 31. ----acicularis LINDL. 33. Dactyloctenium radulans,
+88. Danthonia pectinata, 319. ----* triticoides LINDL. 365. Erianthus,
+fulvo aff. 62. Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349. Lappago biflora, 364.
+Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33. Perotis rara, 139. Panicum laevinode 60. AND
+PASSIM. Pappophorum gracile, 319. ----* avenaceum LINDL. 320. ----*
+virens, LINDL. 360. ----* flavescens, LINDL. 34. * Stipa scabra, LINDL.
+31. * Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187. Triodia pungens, 177. 340.
+Triraphis mollis, 88.
+
+SEDGES.
+
+Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124. ----sp. 120. Kyllinga monocephala, 100.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS.
+
+Damasonium ovalifolium, 31. Xerotes laxa, 361. ----leucocephala, 198.
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378. * Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3
+Commelina undulata, 347. Thysanotus elatior, 347. Tricoryne elatior, 387.
+Laxmannia gracilis, 365. Dianella rara, 366. ----strumosa, 341.
+
+GYMNOGENS. Zamia, 209. Callitris sp. n. 187. ----glauca, 298. ----
+pyramidalis, 93.
+
+SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE).
+
+* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371. ----* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124.
+Beyeria, sp. n. 390. Bertya oleaefolia, 290. Euphorbia hypericifolia?
+265. ----* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348. Hylococcus sericeus, 389. *
+Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342. Phyllanthus simplex? 106.
+
+CUCURBITS.
+
+Cucumis pubescens, 110.
+
+BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE).
+
+* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383.
+
+FRANKENIADS.
+
+* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305. ----* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305.
+
+CAPPARIDS.
+
+* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257. ----* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220. ----
+lasiantha, 102. ----Mitchellii, 36. Cleome flava, 127.
+
+STERCULIADS.
+
+Brachychiton populneum, 355. * Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155.
+
+BYTTNEBIADS.
+
+* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+MALLOWWORTS.
+
+Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260. ----* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363. Fugosia digitata?
+387. ----sp. 64. Malva ovata, 397. * Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368. ----
+pisiformis, 362. ----* virgata, HOOKER, 361. ----filiformis, A. CUNN.
+361. ----tubulosa, CUNN. 390. ----sp. n. 103.
+
+LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE).
+
+Grewia Richardiana, 383.
+
+MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE).
+
+* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342.
+
+SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE).
+
+Thouinia australis, 390. * Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273. ----* filifolia,
+HOOKER, 241. ----* hirtella, 191. ----* mollis, LINDL. 212. ----*
+peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361. ----* pubescens, LINDL. 342. ----*
+tenuifolia, LINDL. 248. ----* trigona, LINDL. 236. ----* triangularis,
+219. ----* vestita, HOOKER, 265.
+
+DILLENIADS.
+
+Pleurandra ericifolia, 362. ----* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363. Hibbertia
+canescens, 339.
+
+CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE).
+
+Clematis stenophylla, 368. Ranunculus plebeius, 362. ----sessiliflorus,
+361.
+
+PITTOSPORADS.
+
+* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224. * Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97. ----
+lanceolatum, 272.
+
+EPACRIDS.
+
+Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226.
+
+CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE).
+
+* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353.
+
+RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE).
+
+* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225. ----* eriantha, LINDL. 298. * Eriostemon
+rhombeum, LINDL. 293. * Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102. ----* latifolia,
+LINDL. 236. ----* pendula, LINDL. 251. Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398. *
+Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347. * Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199. *
+Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339.
+
+CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE).
+
+Geranium parviflorum? 362. Erodium littoreum? 360.
+
+PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE).
+
+* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148. ----* pusilla, LINDL. 360.
+
+BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE).
+
+Polygonum acre, 149. ----junceum, 85.
+
+NYCTAGOS.
+
+Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362.
+
+AMARANTHS.
+
+Amaranthus undulatus, 102. Alternanthera nodiflora, 35. ----sp. 341.
+Nyssanthes? 360. * Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45. ----Janatum, 33.
+88. ----* conicum, LINDL. 363. ----fusiforme, 383. ----alopecuroideum,
+88. 91.
+
+CHENOPODS.
+
+Ambrina carinata, 127. * Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64. ----
+elaeagnoides, 29 Atriplex semibaccata, 23. * Chenopodium auricomum,
+LINDL. 94. Enchylaena tomentosa, 102. Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67. ----*
+thymifolia, LINDL. 56. ----* lanosa, LINDL. 88. ----* villosa, LINDL. 91.
+Rhagodia parabolica, 53. Salsola australis, 24, etc. Seleroaena uniflora,
+72. * Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239.
+
+FICOIDS.
+
+Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315.
+
+DAPHNADS.
+
+Pimelea linifolia? 340. ----* trichostachya, LINDL. 355. ----colorans,
+362. Exocarpus aphylla, 118. ----spartea, 135.
+
+PROTEADS.
+
+* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342. * Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER,
+265. ----* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341. ----floribunda, 212. ----*
+longistyla, HOOKER, 343. ----sp. 276. * Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397.
+----* purpurea, HOOKER, 348.
+
+DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE).
+
+Cassytha pubescens, 362.
+
+LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.
+
+Acacia conferta, 174. 289. ----Cunninghamii, 204. ----doratoxylon, 289.
+----delibrata, 258. ----decora, 359. var. 223. ----* excelsa, BENTH. 225.
+----Farnesiana, 256. ----falcata, 221. Acacia holosericea, 256. ----
+Simsii, 256. ----leucadendron, 258. ----* longespicata, BENTH. 298. ----
+ixiophylla, 204. ----leptoclada, var. 95. ----* macradenia, BENTH. 360.
+----neriifolia, 386. ----pendula, PASSIM. ----pennifolia, 361. ----
+podalyriifolia, 221. ----* pinifolia, BENTH. 342. ----stenophylla, 81.
+----spectabilis, 353. ----salicina, 56. ----triptera, 291. ----* varians,
+BENTH. 132. ----* Victoriae, BENTH. 333. ----* uncifera, BENTH. 341. ----
+viscidula, 340. * Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236. * Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH.
+290. ----rhombifolia, 294. * Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384. ----*
+coronilloides, CUNN. 384. ----* zygophylla, BENTH. 288. ----sophera, 390.
+----occidentalis, 378. ----heteroloba, 251. * Crotalaria dissitiflora,
+BENTH. 386. ----* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120. * Cyclogyne swainsonioides,
+BENTH. 397. * Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363. * Erythrina vespertilio,
+BENTH. 218. * Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348. Hardenbergia monophylla,
+236. Hovea lanceolata, 212. ----* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289. * Indigofera
+brevidens, BENTH. 385. ----hirsuta, 122. * Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH.
+258. ----scoparia, 339. * Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365. Labichea
+rupestris, BENTH. 342. * Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273. * Leptocyamus
+latifolius, BENTH. 361. * Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62. ----australis,
+var. 348. Neptunia gracilis, 362. * Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131.
+Sesbania aculeata? 106. * Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363. Vigna, an
+capensis? 339. ----* lanceolata, BENTH. 350. ----* suberecta, BENTH. 388.
+
+ROSEWORTS.
+
+Rubus parvifolius, 351.
+
+LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE).
+
+Lythrum Salicaria, 62.
+
+RHAMNADS.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, 201. Cryptandra propinqua, 223. * Ventilago
+viminalis, HOOKER, 369.
+
+SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE).
+
+* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387. * Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+STACKHOUSIADS.
+
+Stackhousia muricata, 362.
+
+DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE).
+
+Carissa ovata, 393. Tabernaemontana, sp. 341. * Doobah, 85.
+
+LOGANIADS.
+
+* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+GENTIANWORTS.
+
+Erythraea australis, 366.
+
+OLIVEWORTS.
+
+Notclaea punctata, 352.
+
+NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE).
+
+Nicotiana suaveolens, 64. Solanum ellipticum, 215. ----furfuraceum, 212.
+----biflorum, 362. ----violaceum, 365. ----sp. 85.
+
+BINDWEEDS.
+
+* Polymeria longifolia, 398. Convolvulus erubescens, 353. Evolvulus,
+sericeo aff., 386. ----linifolius, 339.
+
+LEADWORTS.
+
+Plumbago zeylanica, 219.
+
+RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE).
+
+Plantago varia, 352.
+
+JASMINWORTS.
+
+* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355. ----lineare, 94. ----* Mitchellii,
+LINDL. 365.
+
+EHRETIADS.
+
+Halgania, sp. 24.
+
+BORAGEWORTS.
+
+* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258.
+
+BRUNONIADS.
+
+Brunonia sericea, 341. ----simplex? 360. ----* simplex, LINDL. 82.
+
+LABIATES.
+
+Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347. * Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362.
+Moschosma polystachya, 137. Plectranthus parviflorus, 347. * Prostanthera
+odoratissima, BENTH., 291. ----* ringens, BENTH., 363. ----*
+euphrasioides, BENTH., 360. Teucrium recemosum, 31. ----argutum, 198.
+Salvia plebeia, 366.
+
+VERBENES.
+
+Chloanthes stoechadis, 298. Vitex, sp. n., 212.
+
+MYOPORADS.
+
+* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31. * Myoporum dulce, 253. ----
+Cunninghamii, 214. * Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273. ----*
+salicinus, BENTH., 251. ----* curvipes, BENTH., 221. ----*
+bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386.
+
+BIGNONIADS.
+
+Tecoma Oxleyi, 291.
+
+ACANTHADS.
+
+Justicia media, 31. 89. 361. ----ascendens, 97. Ruellia australis, 353.
+
+FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE).
+
+Morgania floribunda, 62. 384. Veronica plebeia, 360.
+
+GOODENIADS.
+
+Dampiera adpressa, 339. Goodenia pulchella, 339. ----* flagellifera, DE
+VRIESE, 378. ----coronopifolia, 359. ----geniculata, 72. * Linschotenia
+bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345. * Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258.
+
+COMPOSITES.
+
+Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62. * Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75. ----
+cuneifolia, 28. * Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378. * Eurybia
+subspicata, HOOKER, 293. Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359. Erechthites arguta,
+225. * Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62. * Flaveria australasica, HOOKER,
+118. Helichrysum bracteatum, 79. ----* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83. ----
+semipapposum, 389. ----odorum? 362. Helipteres anthemoides, 349. ----*
+glutinosa, HOOK., 361. Minuria heterophylla, 64. Monenteles redolens,
+263. * Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353. Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347.
+Podolepis acuminata? 289. ----rugata? 362. ----longipedunculata, 362.
+Pycnosorus globosus, 353. Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78. ----*
+arachnoidea, HOOK., 341. Senecio carnosulus? 360. ----Cunninghami, 45.
+----brachylaenus, 62. Sphaeranthus hirtus 212.
+
+HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA).
+
+* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306. ----* glauca, LINDL., 91. * Myriophyllum
+verrucosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE).
+
+Angophora lanceolata, 81. * Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235. Eucalyptus
+sideroxylon, 339. ----* acuminatus, HOOK. 390. Eucalyptus pulverulento
+aff. 91. ----* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235. ----* citriodorus, HOOKER,
+235. ----* populifolius, HOOKER, 204. ----bicolor, 390. ----* viminalis,
+HOOKER, 157. * Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298. * Melaleuca
+trichostachya, LINDL. 277. ----* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262. Schidiomyrtus
+tenellus, 340. * Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198.
+
+CINCHONADS.
+
+Canthium sp. 386. ----* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397. Pomax hirta, 340.
+
+STELLATES.
+
+Asperula? 360.
+
+UMBELLIFERS.
+
+Actinotus Helianthi, 345. Daucus brachiatus, 235. Didiscus pilosus, 593.
+
+SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE).
+
+Fusanus acuminatus, 105. Santalum oblongatum 101.
+
+LORANTHS.
+
+* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102. ----* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101.
+----* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224. ----* nutans, CUNN. 158.
+
+[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-
+long) on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).]
+
+LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA ***
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+by Thomas Mitchell
+
+Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the
+copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing
+this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook.
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+*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****
+
+
+Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+
+Author: Thomas Mitchell
+
+Release Date: February, 2006  [EBook #9943]
+[This file was first posted on November 2, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: iso-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA ***
+
+
+
+
+E-text prepared by Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Notes in the book are shown in square brackets at the point referenced.
+
+Maps and plates not shown in the text version of this ebook
+
+
+=======================================================================
+
+
+Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
+
+by
+
+Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TO
+THE HONOURABLE
+THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS
+OF THE
+LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW  SOUTH WALES,
+THIS JOURNAL
+OF
+AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,
+PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,
+AND
+UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,
+IS
+DEDICATED
+BY
+THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,
+HUMBLE SERVANT,
+T. L. MITCHELL
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the
+most attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of
+Australia. There the philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the
+poet for original studies and ideas; the naturalist for additional
+knowledge; and the historian might begin at a beginning. The traveller
+there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, or towers; but he
+is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of healthful
+progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
+Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions
+still unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now
+that the rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most
+deserving people on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved
+by the Almighty for their use.
+
+In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early
+period between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known
+to the ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--
+
+"Communemque priùs, ceu lumina solis et auras, Cautus humum longo
+signavit limite mensor." [* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]
+
+The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
+arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
+internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and
+the north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the
+last twenty years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to
+bring under the notice of men of science some of the earth's productions
+hitherto unknown. He cannot sufficiently express his sense of obligation
+in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and
+Professor De Vriese, for supplying the botanical matter and notes
+contained in this volume, and thus contributing to the general stock of
+human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that during the
+long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
+register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst
+of his important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison
+of minute details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
+
+The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in
+its accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of
+latitude; trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever
+heights were available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route.
+This route was connected, at its commencement and termination, with the
+trigonometrical survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a
+survey extending two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of
+his intersections with that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could
+not but be very satisfactory to the author.
+
+The geological specimens collected during this journey have been
+deposited in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on
+the maps by the numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be
+available to geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science,
+the fossils now brought from these remote regions will be accessible at
+any future time, and something known of the geology as well as of the
+geography of the interior. As Professor Forbes most readily undertook to
+describe the freshwater shells after the work had passed through the
+press, that portion of the collection also has thus been brought under
+the notice of geologists.
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+GENERAL MAP
+
+Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord
+Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--
+Scattered population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of
+sheep on cattle runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--
+Sulphureous springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan.
+Leave Bultje's country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between
+the squatters and the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of
+young bullocks.--Richard Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night
+without water.--Distress from heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion
+of the party.--Melancholy fate of the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants
+discovered.--Encampment at Mudaà.--Carry water forward.--Arrive at
+Daròbal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelègo.--Discovery of a lagoon.--Encamp
+near Canbelègo. Explore the Bogan in search of water.--Long ride.--Quit
+the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE
+
+Move to the ponds of Cannonbà.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's
+intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of
+weather.--A day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt
+plant.--Reconnoitre Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach
+of a flood announced.--It arrives in clear moonlight.--(Frontispiece.)--
+Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering cattle.--(Plate 2. p.
+61.) A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the
+Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds
+destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to
+modern names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of
+the Macquarie and Bàrwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--
+Admirable distribution of water. The ford at Wyàbry.--The party crosses
+the Darling
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--
+SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.
+
+Plains and low hills.--The Caràwy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The
+Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--
+During the delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the
+Narran.--New plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their
+passage.--The party fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills
+examined.--Good grassy country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west
+of the river.--Ride up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley
+with a native.--Gravelly ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--
+Approach the assembled natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial
+reception.--Cross the Balonne.--Reach the Culgòa.--Cross that river.--
+Route beyond.--The Upper Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on
+trees.--A native scamp.--Fine country.--Splendid reaches of the river
+(Plate 3. page 119.)--Lagoons near it.--Lake Parachute.--Seek a
+position--for a depôt camp.--Ride to the north-west.--Character of the
+country.--Search for water. Uncommon birds.--Return to the camp.--New
+Acacia
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANÒA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE
+PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--
+Trace one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore
+it.--Fine country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small
+tributary.--Mountains discovered.--Camp visited by three
+natives.--"Cogoon" the name of tributary.--Charms of the Australian
+climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme cold.--Traces of high floods in the
+Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--
+Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel
+due north over open downs.--Advantages of mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount
+Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party advances to the Amby--followed
+by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter the country through the
+pass.--Find one pond.--A large river discovered.--Position taken up on
+its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore to the north-
+west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior country
+visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to
+trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--
+Native visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The
+Tagando tribe again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance
+again with a light party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE,
+ AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
+
+My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--
+Ride north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party
+crosses Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the
+north-west.--Banks of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards
+it.--Flank movement to the Maranòa for water.--None found in its bed.--
+View from Mount Owen.--Names of localities on the map.--Scarcity of water
+impedes our progress.--Water found in rocky gullies.--Excursion
+northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern summit of Mount Owen.--
+Progress through a broken country.--Night without water.--Another route
+explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount Owen.--Route for
+the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount P. P. King.--
+View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount Faraday.--
+Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the camp.--
+The party with the carts advances.--(Pyramids, Plate IV., page 222.)--
+Course of the new found river.--New plants.--A large lake receives the
+river.--(Plate V., John Martin's Range, page 225.)--The outlet dry.--
+Enter a scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich
+soil on the downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river.
+Fossil wood.--Again shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a
+gully.--Balmy Creek.--New plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower
+Almond.--(Pl. 6. page 237.)--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount
+Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,
+
+Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate
+and country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the
+water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--
+Causes of the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river
+channel from the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much
+increased.--Long journey through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the
+river bank.--Character of this river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--
+Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach the river by moonlight.--Large
+lagoons.--New tributary--from the S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night
+without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp visited by natives during
+my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party crosses the river.--
+Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the natives.--The
+shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable
+production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--
+Singular meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--
+Recross the Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable
+tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to
+explore a river in brigalow.--A more direct way homewards.--Successful
+passage with carts and drays.--Open downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the
+Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the Salvator.--Position taken up for
+a depôt camp.--Interesting plants.--(View on the Salvator, Pl. 8.)
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189.)
+
+Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three
+volcanic hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--
+The Nive and the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found,
+after a night of thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--
+Morning view from a rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open
+downs.--Brigalow scrubs away from the river.--River much increased.--
+Security from natives--Thoughts in these solitudes.--The downs and the
+river.--An emu shot there.--A river joins from the east.--Structure of
+native's huts.--Two separate channels unite.--The river well filled.--
+Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--
+surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and return homewards.--The
+savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the S. W.--Short cut along
+the left bank of the river.--Name it the Victoria.--Privations in
+exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by a snake.--
+Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp of
+the pyramids.--Rare and new plants  collected there.--(View of Lindley's
+Range, Pl. 9.)
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+(Having reference to Map V., Page 189., and Map IV., Page 133.)
+
+Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount
+Faraday.--Valley of the Warregò.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp
+over the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranòa.--The river found to be near our
+former track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle
+tracks.--Arrival at the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--
+during our absence.--(Pl. 7. ABORIGINAL DANCE, page 358).--Plants
+gathered at the depôt camp.--New plants.--Fossils at Mount Sowerby.--
+Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the depôt camp following the
+course of the Maranòa.--Discovery of a fine open country.--Numbered trees
+at camps.--The country on the Maranòa.--Singular habits of a fish.--Name
+of river obtained from good authority.--(Pl. 10. VIEW ON THE MARANÒA,
+page 372).--The Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at length
+discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive at
+the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+(Having reference to Map III., Page 81.)
+
+(VIEW OF ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, Pl. 11)--Despatches sent forward.--
+Acquisitions during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The
+party crosses the Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle
+stations.--Heavy rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a
+hill.--Dam thrown up.--The waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival
+at the Barwan.--A flood.--(Pl. 12. LAST USE OF THE BOATS, page 395).--
+Cross the Màal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount
+Riddell recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A
+stockman.--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of the
+Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire,
+kangaroos, and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--
+Experiment worth trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the
+party.--Of convicts generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--
+capabilities of soil and climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division
+and appropriation of the territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india
+
+MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA   Page 430
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--
+Letter, dated 28th October, 1830
+
+Systematical List of Plants
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+[Not included in the text-file version of this eBook]
+
+Flood coming down the Macquarie (pl. 1. p. 58) Map I. The Indian
+Archipelago Portrait of Bultje Remnant of the Bogan tribe Map II. The
+Rivers Bogan and Macquarie First use of the boats (pl. 2) Map III. The
+Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also
+the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon Separation of the Balonne
+into the Culgoa, Narran, &c. The River Balonne, 7th April (pl. 3) Map IV.
+Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge The
+Bottle tree, DELABECHEA The black awaiting the white Map V. The country
+and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the
+River Victoria Tree without branches The Pyramids (pl. 4) Martin's Range
+(pl. 5) Tower Almond (pl. 6) Map VI. The River Belyando Missile club of
+natives of Central Australia Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?) The River
+Salvator, 5th Sept. (pl. 8) Lindley's Range (pl. 9) Old native female
+Aboriginal dance (pl. 7) View on the River Maranòa (pl. 10) Acacia
+VARIANS St. Georgia's Bridge (pl. 11) Last use of the boats (pl. 12) Map
+VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries
+
+* * * * *
+
+JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.
+
+
+
+Chapter I.
+
+OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
+STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED
+POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM SYDNEY.--A
+SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET AN OLD
+ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN RIVER.--
+YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY OF WATER.--
+THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY FATE OF THE
+BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER FORWARD.--
+DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS DIE FROM
+THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, BY MOVING
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH THE PARTY.
+
+The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
+first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
+entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
+part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
+development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The same
+direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the Royal
+Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a committee of
+the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most desirable to pursue
+at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony from distress
+found favour with the public.
+
+At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
+islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
+industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
+themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,
+
+"Which mock'd their scant manurings, and requir'd MORE HANDS THAN THEIRS
+to prune their wanton growth."
+
+The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, "al
+nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," seemed
+to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the wayward
+fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern extremity
+of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis incognita."
+The character of the interior of that country still remained unknown, the
+largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere exploration, the
+colonists of New South Wales might not have been very anxious just at
+that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical knowledge could
+be combined with that of exploring a route towards the nearest part of
+the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, it was easy to awaken
+the attention of the Australian public to the importance of such an
+enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount the Indian cavalry had
+commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of Torres Straits had been
+injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided by any overland route
+from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
+South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
+shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with England
+by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by land, was
+an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In short, the
+commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the direct road
+home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the discovery of a
+good overland route between Sydney and the head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be introduced
+from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
+
+In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
+the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to
+the settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-île forming the furthest
+point of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
+therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that of
+the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a considerable
+river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
+submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
+His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
+reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
+should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
+Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more money
+than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards the expense
+of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. His
+Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
+the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
+still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
+to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
+interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
+which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
+despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
+and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six persons
+who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not been heard
+of, and were supposed to have either perished or been destroyed by
+natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from Port
+Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
+shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
+
+The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, favourable
+to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still declined to
+allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any reason for
+keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it became known
+in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, with the express
+sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring expedition from Adelaide
+into the northern interior of Australia, and that he was actually then in
+New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had expressed, in one of his early
+despatches to the British Government, his readiness to encourage such an
+undertaking as that, and stated that "no one came forward to claim the
+honour of such an enterprise;" yet now that Lord Stanley had sanctioned
+the plan of the Surveyor General, whose duty it was to survey the
+country, he refused to allow this officer to proceed. The Legislative
+Council, however, renewed the petition for this undertaking, to which the
+Governor at length assented, in 1845; and the sum of 2000L. was
+unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but with the clear
+understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of the Surveyor
+General should be adopted.
+
+The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. The
+journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report that a
+large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
+accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
+still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first
+papers published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
+suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
+Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by a
+map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
+
+In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
+land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
+bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
+preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
+greater number of men, were considered objections; while many experienced
+persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more enduring than
+horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] Eight
+drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: four
+of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
+Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two
+parts, on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party
+moved off from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.
+
+I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having rode
+there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following Monday,
+15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior. The
+Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:--
+
+SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.
+EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command. W.
+STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural
+History. PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes. Charles Niblett, William Graham,
+ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper. WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.
+John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper. Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers. Edward
+Taylor, William Bond, William Mortimer, George Allcot, John Slater,
+Richard Horton, Felix Maguire, James Stephens, Carpenters. Job Stanley,
+Edward Wilson, Blacksmith. George Fowkes, Shoemaker. John Douglas,
+Barometer carrier. Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman. Andrew Higgs,
+Chainman. William Hunter, With the horses. Thomas Smith, Patrick Travers,
+Carter and Pioneer. Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher. Arthur Bristol,
+Sailmaker and Sailor.
+
+8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3
+light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was
+provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the
+party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest
+consisted of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.
+
+With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the party
+consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,
+with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so
+powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,
+from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely
+on their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the
+face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of
+the old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp
+arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly
+forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of
+discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a
+party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and
+it was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as
+mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the same
+kind of authority could not be exercised.
+
+Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former line
+of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived at
+Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same chain
+of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named Dochendoras
+Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds. These ponds had
+been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the 9th December--the
+day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had been clear and sultry.
+A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day, levelled part of the forest
+near this place, laying prostrate the largest trees, one side of which
+was completely barked by the hailstones. Many branches of trees along the
+line of route, showed that the wind had been very violent to a
+considerable distance.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,
+therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the
+chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and
+difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing,
+chiefly to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to
+have taken, but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays
+before my arrival at the camp.
+
+We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that
+Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a
+gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all
+sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which
+may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,
+or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot, although
+previously unknown in these regions.
+
+17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 A.M. and travelled along a good road, for
+about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of ponds,
+following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called
+Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we
+finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We
+had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but
+everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a
+blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of
+rain, it had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the
+Macquarie.
+
+Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared with
+a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper. She
+had been there two years, and only complained that they had never been
+able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to
+leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they
+should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,
+and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found
+work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very
+little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied
+sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His
+conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his
+family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been obliged
+to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man
+neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under
+the new regulations.
+
+"So you saw no more of them?"
+
+"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them AFTER THEY HAD BEEN SOLD AT THE
+POUND!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small family of
+children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could have kept
+my cows."
+
+This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked along,
+for he was one of the race--
+
+"Who march to death with military glee."
+
+But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the
+hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the
+desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the
+DISJECTA MEMBRA of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left to
+the people themselves in a new colony.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 A.M., and continued along a
+tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek, in which
+there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the good beaten
+road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left, which brought
+us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds, three miles
+higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to encamp here, I
+pursued the road south-westward along the chain of ponds, anxious to
+ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily to the westward
+of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of route to the Bogan.
+At about five miles I found an excellent opening through which the road
+passed on ground almost level. Having ascended a small eminence on the
+right, I fell in with some natives with spears, who seemed to recognise
+me, by pointing to my old line of route, and saying, "Majy Majy" (Major
+Mitchell). I little thought then that this was already an outlying
+picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe my party. The day
+was hot, therm. 97° in the shade. The chain of ponds, there called "the
+Little River," contained water in abundance, and was said to flow into
+the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but few sources in
+Hervey's Range.
+
+The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard, and had
+been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now a sheep
+station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a mile and a
+half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country suitable
+for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment of sheep
+on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as where
+sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where cattle
+would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter
+description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The
+plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive
+pasturage in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to
+inundations to be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this
+description lies on the interior side of the ranges, as far as I have
+examined them. It is watered by the sources of the rivers Goulburn,
+Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee, Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh,
+Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and Darling; on which rivers the runs will always
+make cattle fat. There are two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there
+is something salsolaceous in the herbage also on which cattle thrive so
+well; and the open plains and muddy waterholes are their delight.
+Excessive drought, however, may occasionally reduce the owners of such
+stock to great extremities, and subject them to serious loss. The Acacia
+pendula, a tree whose HABITAT is limited and remarkable, is much relished
+by the cattle. It is found only in clay soils, on the borders of plains,
+which are occasionally so saturated with water as to be quite impassable;
+never on higher ground nor on any lower than that limited sort of
+locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers which at some seasons overflow.
+In such situations, even where grass seems very scarce, cattle get fat;
+and it is a practice of stockmen to cut down the Acacia pendula (or Myall
+trees, as they call them) for the cattle to feed on.
+
+At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual who
+had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of
+colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his
+consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state
+of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there
+were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be
+startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system
+which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one
+thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should
+be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so
+favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite
+theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and
+propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this
+unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal
+native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they could
+not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences between
+squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it were
+an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more likely
+to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;
+remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,
+all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money, then
+place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than a
+black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I
+penned these remarks.
+
+19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously examined.
+On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees, plants,
+and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each side,
+and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious shrub
+never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy
+valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of
+former difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had
+travelled upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This
+consisted of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had
+formerly been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of
+Three Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their
+appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend
+Bultje, who had guided me from thence to the Bené Rocks, on my former
+journey along the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had
+elapsed since I formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time
+had made no alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to
+forward my views that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water
+was to be found; and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former
+route, by the least possible DÉTOUR. Mount Laidley bore 23° E. of N.
+
+20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass seemed
+good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A cattle
+station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and at
+about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it
+crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally
+diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace
+of the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill
+laid down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,
+I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very springs
+mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being limpid and
+surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were now trodden
+by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been endeavouring
+to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it pure, by
+laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The change
+produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by the
+intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable, and I
+could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native, should have
+felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from the level
+plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty feet lower
+continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste of sulphur,
+and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more celebrated.
+They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are not
+supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain
+descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang Creek
+did however retain some water which had fallen during the last rain. The
+thermometer stood at 107° in the tent.
+
+21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a straight
+line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half way to the
+Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating country, just
+heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our guide knew the
+country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here also were two
+flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head station, being
+fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap. While travelling
+this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters from Buree, and a cart
+had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a small supply of corn.
+That country is considered excellent as a fattening run for sheep; the
+shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which keeps them in
+excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of water at some
+seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into sheep runs, and
+VICE VERSÂ, a contingency which seems to render these lands of Hervey's
+range of temporary and uncertain value.
+
+22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the little
+chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was good--
+the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N. W. It was
+the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing at length
+to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we further
+on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon its
+western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains had
+been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length
+arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Ganànaguy,
+and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here
+looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there
+was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,
+and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the
+country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or
+Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the
+Bogan seemed low.
+
+This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the
+failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an
+almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water
+for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform
+width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be
+sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain
+tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the
+sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions
+of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are
+greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is
+scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had
+been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses cannot
+travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the mercy
+of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking
+kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of
+cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and
+lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109° at noon, wind
+W.N.W.
+
+23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr. Templar's
+station at Ganànaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood by the party
+as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink to each of
+the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest water-holes
+(Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service he promised,
+I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco promised him, and
+also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This native got a bad
+name from various stockmen, as having been implicated in the murder of
+Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded; and it must indeed
+require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates to maintain his
+footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen or shepherds
+on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter savages
+naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as we
+should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to them,
+while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most unjustly
+connected this native's name with the murder of one of our number. His
+laconic manner and want of language would not admit of any clear
+explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and the
+difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance of
+his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley
+in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil,
+at least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition.
+Much tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by
+stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when
+aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to
+save or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this,
+without having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own
+valley, "surpasseth me to know."
+
+We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr. Gilmore's
+station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk. At the
+station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a flood had
+come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up the well.
+The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the clay was wet
+and soft when the further sinking was interrupted. Thermometer in my tent
+109°, wind W. N. W.
+
+24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest sunbeams
+shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off early, but the
+progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind blew like a blast
+furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We encamped on the
+Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after travelling about ten
+miles. Thermometer in tent, 103.° Hot wind from the west.
+
+25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more
+from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107°.
+
+26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to Mr.
+Coss, 2½ miles. Thermometer, 109°.
+
+27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of the
+bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.
+
+At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind
+from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot
+wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117°, and when exposed
+to the wind rose rapidly to 129°, when I feared the thermometer would
+break as it only reached to 132°.
+
+28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off early,
+accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The day was
+excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally encamped
+on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling eleven miles.
+Thermometer in tent, 115°. At half past five, the sky became overcast,
+and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and suddenly fell. I found
+that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud, leaving a jug of the water
+tolerably clear, but then the acid remained. Towards evening the sky was
+overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The night was uncommonly hot. At
+ten the thermometer stood at 102°, and at day-break at 90°.
+
+29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle would no
+longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from south. Finding
+a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the lighter
+portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the
+hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM,
+reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a SOLANUM in flower,
+of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener grass
+indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at about
+twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and
+elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had
+been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of
+the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where
+the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the
+Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had
+been once much lower down, at Mudà, and even at Nyingan (see INFRA), but
+the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations untenable,
+without more support than the Colonial government was able to afford.
+There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer of the
+country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered. The map
+will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep their
+ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes. [* See
+map of Eastern Australia--INFRA.] The Darling is peopled more permanently
+by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia: affording as
+it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in seasons of very high
+flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got at, and that they are
+obliged to resort to the higher country at such seasons, between the
+Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also happens that the cattle of
+the squatter are most accessible from the soft state of the ground; the
+stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The tribes from the Lachlan
+and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and when tribes assemble they
+are generally ready for any mischief. The Bogan is particularly within
+their reach, and when wet seasons do occur the cattle of squatters must
+be very much at the mercy of the savages. The tribes from the Darling are
+extremely hostile, even to the more peaceably disposed hilltribes near
+the colony, and several stations have already been abandoned in
+consequence of the outrages of the aborigines from the Darling and
+Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils as the precarious
+or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply of water must
+continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from actual
+possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full benefit
+of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres, covered
+with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages smile at the
+want of generalship by which they have been allowed to burn the white
+man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the Bogan. The
+establishment of a police station near the junction of the Bogan with the
+Darling, or the formation of an inland township about Fort Bourke, had
+been sufficient to have secured the stations along the Bogan and
+Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well as our own
+countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such are the
+results where SQUATTING has been permitted to supersede settling. With
+possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied, and no
+such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British colony.
+
+The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
+that between our present camp and Mudà, a very large lagoon about 50
+miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206
+feet in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the
+Bogan is only 50 feet between Mudà and New Year's Range, in a distance of
+upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Mudà
+from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
+general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which
+the overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and
+other channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where
+the declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in
+the channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither
+flow with so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by
+which ponds are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this
+part, during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about
+double the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
+
+I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
+Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require
+to take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
+having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas
+the working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
+journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
+young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
+break them in as we proceeded.
+
+30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool morning.
+Thermometer, 68°. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. Kerr 32
+young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the stockyard.
+
+Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
+
+31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 A. M., 62°: at noon, 109°. Wind
+S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately avoiding the
+tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the air, also
+some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much wanted for
+the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in the evening.
+
+1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, and was
+very high at 11 A. M. The party were chiefly employed breaking in the
+young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with the
+hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
+evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
+ATRIPLEX SEMIBACCATA of Brown was a common straggling plant.
+
+2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning was
+cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the clouds, which
+resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat again. Besides the
+SALSOLA AUSTRALIS, we found a HALGANIA with lilac flowers, probably
+distinct from the species hitherto described, which are natives of the
+south-west coast.
+
+3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the old;
+and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in the
+Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to the
+scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the first
+hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named Mount
+Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The little
+pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of Cunningham was so
+identified with the botanical history of almost all the shrubs in the
+very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no other monument
+seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled Cunningham to my mind; his
+barbarous murder, and the uncertainty which still hung over the actual
+circumstances attending it. The shrubs told indeed of Cunningham; of both
+brothers, both now dead; but neither the shrubs named by the one, nor the
+gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had witnessed the bloody deed, could tell
+more. There the ACACIA PENDULA, first discovered and described by Allan,
+could only
+
+"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand, For ever silent, and for ever
+sad."
+
+4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with the
+young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of conveyance
+was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no pecuniary saving
+would compensate, as compared with light carts and horses. I proceeded
+forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called Tabbaratong, where some
+water was said still to remain. We found some mud and water only;
+although some that was excellent was found about two miles lower down the
+Bogan, late in the evening.
+
+We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the squatter.
+The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and humiliating proofs
+that the white man had given way, were visible in the remains of dairies
+burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We hoped to find within
+the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, unsoiled by cattle,
+and a surface on which we might track our own stray animals, without
+their being confused by the traces of others.
+
+5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the night,
+retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
+brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
+native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light carts,
+guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, who had
+come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native of the
+lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our route
+was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of CALLITRIS and
+other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
+thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
+through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
+The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
+route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
+native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
+driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
+which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
+downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
+on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
+but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabadà
+and Mudà, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
+the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
+arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabadà ponds. The water was however
+excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, and we
+hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only arrived at
+as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The drays
+with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock and Yuranigh
+back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without water, and that I
+wished him, if still EN ROUTE, immediately to unyoke the cattle, encamp
+on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes during the night,
+and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes I had found near
+Bugabadà. We passed a miserable night without water at Cadduldury.
+
+6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a message
+from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I went forward
+with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 A. M.. The morning
+happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of water and food the
+preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John Douglas and Isaac
+Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at the first water-hole.
+But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy loads thus far in the
+extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to me. William Baldock
+again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of water on a horse, a
+horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the drays, the drivers of
+which were almost frantic and unable to do their work from thirst. He
+brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still remained at his
+encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the drivers (Mortimer
+and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, and chains, to
+escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to watch his own
+team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune to the whole
+party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as my camp, but
+I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the water,
+which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left with the
+drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the water, and
+the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. Stephenson, who had
+hastened back with several bottles, relieved his thirst, and, as the man
+said, "saved his life."
+
+Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
+hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
+the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
+heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
+however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with which
+I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably disposed
+towards us.
+
+7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare bullocks,
+having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during the night.
+The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part of the
+other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in charge
+of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would also have
+gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. Kennedy sent
+him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays carrying the
+provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. The day surpassed
+in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon in the shade stood
+at 109°, a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. Kennedy was distant
+at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabadà.
+
+The six drays came in about 4 P. M.; the sheep not until long after dark.
+Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. Kennedy,
+and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement for drawing
+forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care of, and which
+was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the evening of next day, to
+be attached on their arrival to the two drays with which they were to
+come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest of the night, until
+they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined to meet them early
+next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it was not my intention to
+send after the four stray bullocks until the drays came in, and the party
+could be again united. Thermometer again 109° in the shade all day.
+
+The CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was the
+common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
+capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
+reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are
+found so troublesome among the wool.
+
+8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he had found
+him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from want of
+water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to a young
+dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated that a
+tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. Baldock
+had seen several bullocks dead on the way. In the evening the two first
+teams were sent off as arranged. This day had also been very sultry,
+especially towards evening.
+
+9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were despatched
+as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered the camp. We
+had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, to suffer so
+little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, until I
+could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I had been
+previously assured by the young native that water was still to be found
+at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal to the
+whole party.
+
+On the banks of the Bogan, the ATRIPLEX HAGNOIDES formed a round white-
+looking bush.
+
+I rode forward to Mudà, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, and
+had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who remembered
+my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show me my old track
+and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the northward of my
+present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had been killed in a fight
+with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. Two old grey-haired
+men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed out to me as his
+brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that I had at first
+imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on their hams
+opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and grey, and
+melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
+
+The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
+struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
+Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
+natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of
+the tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives
+were chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
+
+The natives of Mudà assured me there was no water nearer than Nyingan, a
+large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct line lower
+down the Bogan. The ponds of Mudà, their great store of water, and known
+to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were alarmingly low, and it
+became evident that our progress under such a scarcity of water would be
+attended with difficulty. These natives gave us also a friendly hint that
+"GENTLEMEN" should be careful of the spears of the natives of Nyingan, as
+many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately by white men from Wellington
+Valley.
+
+Among the woods we observed the white-flowered TEUCRIUM RACEMOSUM, the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink flowers; also a
+STENOCHILUS and FUSANUS (the Quandang), although not in fruit; a new
+species of STIPA, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse rough
+herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in the
+way of C. TRUNCATA, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed
+pales,[**] and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new
+EREMOPHILA with white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The
+beautiful DAMASONIUM OVALIFOLIUM, with white flowers red in the centre,
+still existed in the water.
+
+[* S. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi
+villosis, glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis
+involutis culmis brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligulâ oblongâ
+subciliatâ.]
+
+[** C. SCLERANTHA (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+breviaristato cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili
+vacuo.]
+
+[*** E. MITCHELLI (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis
+linearibus planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4
+superioribus subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
+
+In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
+the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
+was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
+track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
+following it further.
+
+I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
+out present camp near Bugabadà was in latitude 31° 56', and thus very
+near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
+terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90°; at 9 P. M., 70°; with wet bulb,
+63°.
+
+10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to the S. W.
+in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I sent
+William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the stray
+bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track to Mudà,
+where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and sheep, already
+arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of having been on
+watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell asleep, and that
+the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, but lost himself.
+He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, etc. which he
+declined.
+
+We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
+visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
+state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We had
+passed near Bugabadà similar remains of a cattle station. This position
+of Mudà was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank nearly
+clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
+surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
+last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of
+a young crop shooting up amongst it.
+
+11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the cattle
+and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Mudà for the lost bullocks. To-day I
+noticed the KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
+fruit, edged with pink.
+
+13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning (by
+moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) could
+not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. Kerr's
+station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be found. We
+had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great scarcity of
+water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that our loss
+had been so slight.
+
+I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
+Nyingan, which bore 353°--and having found a tolerably open country for
+about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and encamped,
+sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Mudà. Enough had
+been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the camp. To
+ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already stated,
+the paddock at Mudà, in which during this night, they could be secured,
+having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I found a
+new grass of the genus CHLORIS[*], something like CHL. TRUNCATA in habit,
+some starved specimens of TRICHINIUM LANATUM; amongst the grasses I also
+found the ARISTIDA CALYCINA of Brown, the curious NEURACHNE MITCHELLIANA
+Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and also a new PAPPOPHORUM
+with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart shower fell
+during the evening.
+
+[* C. ACICULARIS (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris
+tactu scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
+setaceo aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
+
+[** P. FLAVESCENS (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis,
+spicâ compositâ densissimâ oblongâ, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis
+pilosis, foliis vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis
+villosis.]
+
+14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Mudà, and were immediately
+yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on the same
+bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been encamped, I
+turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water there. I
+found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a journey of
+about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently found I had
+encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was guided by the
+friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his country
+afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I had cut
+off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a north-
+westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels will
+probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan may
+be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
+stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
+been burnt down.
+
+15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day was
+fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
+found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
+the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
+Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
+An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the JASMINUM
+LINEARE, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the water, I saw
+the ALTERNANTHERA NODIFLORA.
+
+16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, crossing
+the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked trees. We
+lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgabà, and made a slight
+détour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we encamped, and
+were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this day's journey
+Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen with those of the
+feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old track, and
+returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces of our
+party.
+
+At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
+natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
+house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were sunken
+very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp had been
+established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look for
+the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
+my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
+thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water,
+but in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen,
+during the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
+
+17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the native
+Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to the
+Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from that point
+to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, provided this did
+not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by sunset. Two old
+women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by whom Piper was told that
+the nearest permanent water was "NIMINÉ," where white men had attempted
+to form a cattle-station, and been prevented by natives from the Darling,
+many of whom had since been shot by the white men. They said the place
+was far beyond Canbelego, the next stage of my former journey, and where
+these women also said little or no water remained.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven A.M., having found water at Canbelego.
+Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the fruit of the
+CAPPARIS MITCHELLII, which he called an apple, being new to him, but
+which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, and said was
+called "MOGUILE;" he also said that it was eaten by the natives.
+
+18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two small ponds
+remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass than we had
+hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of water, we had
+been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again forward looking for
+water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and after following the
+river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was now within the same
+distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had found abundance of water
+when I sent him to survey it upwards during my last return journey up the
+Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in which Piper pointed, that
+the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as containing water; and as the
+course of that creek, so far as shown on maps, led even more directly to
+the Darling than did the Bogan, I was willing in such a season of extreme
+drought, to avail myself of its waters. My eye had been much injured by
+straining at stars while at the camp near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to
+send Mr. Kennedy on one of my own horses, followed by Graham, to examine
+the water in Duck Creek. I instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35°
+E. of North, until he should reach the creek, and if he found water in it
+to return direct to the camp, but that if water was not found on first
+making the creek, then he was to follow Duck Creek up to its junction
+with an eastern branch, surveyed also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence
+to the camp on a bearing of 240°. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with
+Yuranigh down the Bogan, to ascertain if the channel contained any pond
+between our camp and the part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.
+
+This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve hours,
+and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after examining its
+bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on the plains near
+the head of the eastern branch, but around which there was no grass, all
+having been recently burnt.
+
+20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven A.M., saying he had been twenty-
+four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the same time
+Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me that these
+animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud remaining in
+the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that four of the
+horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that William
+Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an early hour in
+the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the bullocks to
+Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks, also the horses,
+and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the whole of the
+cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks filled.
+
+21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to Nyingan, I
+conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of 1835), having on
+two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts under them all
+the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use the iron boat
+as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage forward;
+that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards the water I
+hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a convenient
+distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven forward to
+return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered possible,
+even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the fine
+reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the 14th
+May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from the gin's
+description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the disputed
+station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve miles from
+Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions to bring the
+drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning. I had sent
+thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of Baldock and
+the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no longer at
+Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats, the contents
+of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was immediately sent
+back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh horses had been left,
+to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to Nyingan during the
+night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the dray--already there with
+the harness casks--bringing an additional supply back in the kegs, when
+the bullocks returned next day.
+
+It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the
+state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at once,
+whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to cross
+to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I
+accordingly set out at 3 P.M., from where the water had been placed in
+the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal
+Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from
+the camp in the direction of 30° E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we
+reached at about 3½ miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed
+was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond
+of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel
+downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found the
+general direction was westward, until it JOINED THE BOGAN. We next
+followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,
+without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any
+of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,
+in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.
+
+22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western bends of the
+Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great pond beyond
+Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very shining and compact in
+a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed, that the grass was green
+as from recent rain, and that there was more chirping of birds; I was
+tempted once more by these indications, to look for water in the Bogan's
+almost hopeless channel, and there we found a pond, at sight of which
+poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell asleep almost in the
+water. It was small, but being sufficient for our immediate wants, we
+thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and proceeded on our
+eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this pond I discovered
+my old track, which we continued to follow across those large plains,
+whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless. These plains I soon
+again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels, distinctly visible
+in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven years. Arriving at length
+near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we resumed our examination
+of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle tracks; the ovens in which
+the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and about their old encampments
+many heaps of bones; but in none of the deep beds of former ponds or
+lagoons could we discover any water. The grass was nevertheless excellent
+and abundant; and its waste, added to the distress the want of water
+occasioned us, made us doubly lament the absence of civilised
+inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and fine soil could have
+been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor were even kangaroos
+or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer inhabitants of these parts. I
+turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it would have been unsafe
+to venture with cattle and drays into these regions before rain fell. In
+returning, we at first found it difficult to find our old track, by which
+alone we could hope that night to reach the small pond of the morning;
+but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and we had also the good
+fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the pond before sunset.
+There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad indeed to have even that
+water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy, had repeatedly thrown
+himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite ill from thirst.
+
+23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the pond;
+but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed, although with
+water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from an old marked
+tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160°, I several times during
+our ride fell in with the old track, and finally reached the camp after a
+rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party had arrived the
+previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr. Kennedy was
+absent, having set off that morning in search of water to the N. E. with
+Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving word that he should
+return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that hour, however, and at
+two I moved the party across the Bogan, and proceeded along open plains
+towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the intention of there refreshing
+the cattle and horses, and awaiting more favourable weather. I previously
+watered out of the half-boat, 106 bullocks, and gave a quart to each of
+the horses. On the way, the heat was so intense that our three best and
+strongest kangaroo dogs died, and it was not until 10 P. M. that the
+drays reached the ponds where I had proposed to encamp. About an hour and
+a half before, Mr. Kennedy also came in, having galloped the two horses
+66 miles, and hurt both their backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 P.
+M., therm. 80°, wet bulb, 68°.
+
+24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from ophthalmia,
+and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several of the men
+were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of this malady
+in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the warm air
+wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same effect until
+the weather changed. At 9 P. M., therm. 84°, with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+
+
+Chapter II.
+
+SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.--BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.--MOVE
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.--HOT WIND.--HEAT GREATER
+THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.--PIPER'S
+INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.--HIS SENT TO BATHURST.--WEATHER CHANGES.--
+RAIN.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.--SALT MADE FROM THE SALT
+PLANT.--RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."--THE PARTY QUITS CANNONBÀ--CROSSES
+PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK--AND THENCE TO THE RIVER MACQUARIE.--OPHTHALMIA
+STILL TROUBLESOME.--APPROACH OF A FLOOD ANNOUNCED.--ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR
+MOONLIGHT.--MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.--NO
+WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."--DIFFICULTY OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM
+SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST THE REEDS.--"YULLIYALLY," A
+NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR
+NATIVE GUIDE.--CONDITION OF HIS COUNTRYMEN.--HOW AFFECTED BY THE
+INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.--AT LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.--DELAYED BY
+STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.--AT LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE
+RIVER WITH THE DARLING.--CROSS THE MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION--AND FORD
+THE DARLING AT WYÀBRY.
+
+25TH JANUARY.--Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application of
+leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent William
+Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought back
+enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The ground
+here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the Darling, with
+the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be lost in seeking
+some ponds where there might be also good grass for the cattle. Therm. at
+sunrise, 97°; at noon, 100°; at 9 P.M. 90°; with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+26TH JANUARY.--I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E. direction to
+where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected from a cloudy
+sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that water was near,
+as natives are seldom found where there is none. He returned early with
+the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of water in a creek about
+five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks. My eyes were so far
+recovered that I could observe the altitude of a star, thus ascertaining
+the latitude of this camp to be 31° 20' 20" S. Therm. at sunrise, 85°; at
+noon, 112°; at 9 P.M. 84°; with wet bulb, 70°.
+
+27TH JANUARY.--The whole party moved to the ponds called "Cannonbà" by
+the natives. There we found greater abundance of water and better grass
+than we had seen near water during the whole journey, and I determined to
+halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had previously
+intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle, when we
+should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers had been
+much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses had got out
+of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the Darling their
+services would be more required. I was also to try the experiment here,
+whether I might prosecute the journey without danger of losing my
+eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point, had been
+almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no hostile
+natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins; rain was
+daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly come in a
+short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented to me as
+needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the wheels;--
+and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we could encamp
+under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We placed our tents
+amongst shady bushes--set up the blacksmith's forge, and soon all hands
+were at work in their various avocations, whilst the cattle and horses
+enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance of water.
+
+Amongst the bushes here, a HAKEA, with simple filiform mucronulate leaves
+without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls resembling dry
+plums. Also the SENECIO CUNNINGHAMI (D.C.), found by Allan Cunningham on
+the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson discovered here a very pretty
+new TRICHINIUM, with heads of hoary pink flowers. [* T. SEMILANATUM
+(Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis, angulatis, foliis linearibus
+acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris hemisphericis, rachi
+densè bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis plumosis parcè
+lanatis.]
+
+I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan,
+consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E.
+of us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by
+Larmer is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful
+one it has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds
+(whence we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonbà;" and to
+what I suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point
+northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78°; at
+noon, 115°; at 4 P.M. 96°; at 9, 88°; with wet bulb, 73°.
+
+28TH JANUARY.--Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with large
+chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the bottom of
+one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about the banks.
+Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station had not
+been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by some old gins
+seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when the place was
+abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the W.N.W. of Mount
+Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse was broader
+than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained much granitic sand, all
+but identifying its sources with those of the Macquarie. This day was
+very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a shower fell about 3 P.M.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 78°; at noon, 115°; at 4 P.M. 108°; at 9, 84°;
+with wet bulb, 63°.
+
+29TH JANUARY.--A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer to
+115° in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon
+became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near
+us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a
+heavy shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102°.
+
+30TH JANUARY.--An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the quarter
+where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This day the
+doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in my
+former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor
+fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at noon, 103°; at 4 P.M., 108°; at 9,
+100 ½°; with wet bulb, 79°.
+
+31ST JANUARY.--The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of
+observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The table
+for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by my
+friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88° of Fahrenheit, whereas at 4
+P.M., the centigrade thermometer stood at 44½°, which is equal to 112° of
+Fahrenheit.
+
+This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking
+with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made
+some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various sayings
+and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never any serious
+intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its progress. The
+services of other more intelligent natives might easily have been
+obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but
+Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of
+course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long interval
+of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance, although
+during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay, the river
+Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party on this
+last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled gun,
+clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets, place in a
+tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a very bad
+shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to obtain any
+clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as interpreter; he
+went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had drawn his rations and
+those of the two young natives separately from the men's mess the week
+before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their fair share; he
+was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine departure,
+foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he could thus
+obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He also had it
+in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from the other
+two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had heard of
+the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards the
+cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were
+actively at their work,--blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers,--this
+man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse to boot,
+and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom he called
+his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native guide,
+just at the time when such guides were most required. The only difficulty
+I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two others,
+and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in advance, and
+he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to have him
+instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other native,
+Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He denied the
+intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to him to leave
+the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not understand him;
+that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so far from his own
+home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to Bathurst, and the
+rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the other two, and that
+he should be kept apart from them during the night. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 85°; at noon, 111°; at 4 P.M., 112°; at 9, 101°;--with wet bulb,
+78°.
+
+1ST FEBRUARY.--This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal Graham. Mr.
+Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police station, and
+make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper to Bathurst,
+his own district, which would put it out of his power to molest the party
+by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it. On them this
+measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh calmly observing
+that Piper had only himself to blame for what had befallen him, and that
+he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook also to obtain, if he
+could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those which had died from
+excessive heat. By that loss our party was left almost without dogs; and
+dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and emus, but to afford
+protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks by the natives, in
+which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were approaching, had
+been rather too successful against various armed parties of whites.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P.M., 106°; at 9 P.M.,
+88°;--with wet bulb, 76°.
+
+2ND FEBRUARY.--The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud which
+appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and eagerly
+watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a presage of
+rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P.M., 106; at 9,
+88°;--with wet bulb, 72°.
+
+3RD FEBRUARY.--High winds whistled among the trees this morning, and dark
+clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell about 9
+A.M., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of nimbus. The high
+wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and this morning, and
+in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But when the rain began
+to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which quarter the rain seemed
+to come. With it came a very peculiar smell, which I had noticed near
+Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the commencement of the rainy
+weather there; and nothing could have been more welcome to us now, than
+the prospect of rain, and the decided change in the temperature from 115°
+to 73°. This was almost the first day during a month in which the air had
+not been warmer than our blood; often had it been greater than fever
+heat, so that 73° felt to us as cool as 50° would have been to a resident
+of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at our camp, but it seemed that rain
+was falling about the sources of the Bogan and other places at which a
+supply of water was indispensable to enable us to proceed. At sunset,
+glimpses of a clear sky appeared about the horizon, and during the night
+the moon and stars came forth, and destroyed all hopes of more rain. We
+were thankful, however, for the relief afforded by what had fallen, which
+had lowered the temperature about 40 degrees, and enabled us to enjoy a
+night of refreshing rest. Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 80°; at 4
+P.M., 73°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+4TH FEBRUARY.--The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with refreshing
+breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61°. This day we had
+completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the tire-
+rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the wheels;
+the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat, as to
+have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were required
+by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts, and
+the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and zeal.
+Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for another
+effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 89°; at 4 P.M., 89°; at 9,
+72°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+5TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the mercurial column stood higher than I had
+yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across the
+sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards the
+northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the
+thermometer never having risen above 96°. By 6 P.M., the barometer had
+fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial
+circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a
+change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not only
+to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 73°;
+with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+6TH FEBRUARY.--Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky, and
+shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change seemed
+to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the
+previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and
+at about 7 A.M. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the
+woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer had
+fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue
+through the night. Range of thermometer from 74° to 72°.
+
+7TH FEBRUARY.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the
+mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening.
+About 10 A.M. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke
+through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus.
+Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie,
+Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had
+risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains
+about five inches.
+
+Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for Piper's
+conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back a good
+bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various water-
+courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the natives
+about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at sunrise,
+74°; at noon, 86°; at 4 P.M., 90°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+8TH FEBRUARY.--The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air made us
+much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had been living,
+although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air,
+especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry
+heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it
+(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at
+noon, 96°; at 4 P.M., 95°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+9TH FEBRUARY.--The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to bestow
+more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these
+remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It
+appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only
+efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible
+condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a
+vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher
+country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the
+"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for
+licking the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep,
+lumps of it being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it
+is certain that by this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much
+injured in health and condition, losing their appetite for grass, and
+finally passing clay only, as may be seen near such places. In the salt
+plants on these plains, nature has amply provided for this taste of these
+large herbivora for salt. Our sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and
+the cattle ate greedily of various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly
+salt to the taste. The colour of the leaves of such bushes is usually a
+very light bluish green, and there are many species. That with the
+largest leaves, called salt-bush by stockmen, and by Dr. Brown RHAGODIA
+PARABOLICA, was very useful as a vegetable after extracting the salt
+sufficiently from it. This we accidentally discovered from some
+experiments made by Mr. Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the
+proportion of salt contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much
+as a twentieth part of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from
+two pounds of the leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the
+leaves a few minutes in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a
+third water, the leaves formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat
+resembling spinach. As the superior excellence of these runs for
+fattening cattle is admitted on all hands, as compared with others more
+abundant in grass on the eastern side of the great range, would it not be
+advisable for the colonists to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and
+thereby to produce a vegetable substitute for the rock salt, which is not
+only expensive, but only a very imperfect remedy for the clay-licking
+propensities of sheep and cattle on many runs? Thermometer at sunrise,
+70°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 98°; at 9, 86°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:--"Two pounds of the
+green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then
+strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted to
+a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint
+of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then
+exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a
+cubic shape having previously been formed."]
+
+10TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an
+animal apparently of the same genus as the DIPUS MITCHELLII, and which
+seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three
+millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three
+more. A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 P.M. a dark thunder
+cloud came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was
+very loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high,
+and rain heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 P.M., except in the N.
+E. where the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°.
+
+11TH FEBRUARY.--The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward of
+our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the Macquarie. I hoped
+to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party halting on it
+one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I was now
+convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party until it
+could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it,
+with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp,
+a direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to
+divide the journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I
+crossed plains covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at
+length obtained a sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck
+Creek (that of Sturt), or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the
+bearing of Mount Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined
+the bed of the Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing
+therein the least indication of water, and returned to the camp fully
+resolved to proceed next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little
+way below Mount Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for
+the cattle to travel over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at
+noon, 73°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. From an
+average of twenty-five observations of the mercurial column, the height
+of this station has been determined to be 566 English feet above the
+level of the sea.
+
+12TH FEBRUARY.--We broke up our encampment on Cannonbà ponds, where we
+had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and crossing the
+channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we travelled over
+open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At thirteen miles we
+reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra," a name by which it
+is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this we crossed several
+branches, from which it would appear as if the name was derived from that
+of the hand, which is the same, especially as natives sometimes hold up
+the hand and extend the fingers, when they would express that a river has
+various branches or sources. I went on with an advanced party towards the
+Macquarie, and encamped on the bank of that river at 5 P. M. The thick
+grass, low forests of yarra trees, and finally the majestic blue gum
+trees along the river margin, reminded me of the northern rivers seen
+during my journey of 1831. Still even the bed of this was dry, and I
+found only two water holes on examining the channel for two miles. One of
+these was, however, deep, and we encamped near it, surrounded by
+excellent grass in great abundance. The Macquarie, like other Australian
+rivers, has a peculiar character, and this was soon apparent in the reeds
+and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy plats, and not, as usual in other
+rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks. The channel was here deep and
+dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by Marra Creek, the ACACIA
+SALICINA, whereof the wood has a strong perfume resembling violets, also
+a new small-leaved KOCHIA with intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at
+sunrise, 47°; at 4 P. M., 77°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+[* K. THYMIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis
+pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.]
+
+13TH FEBRUARY.--I was again laid up with the MALADIE DU PAYS--sore eyes.
+Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster, and to
+various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to which I
+required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down. But no
+one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as no
+person had passed that way; the country being more open on the eastern
+side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at Gràway,
+about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the west bank.
+Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the mounted police. To
+my most important question--what water was to be found lower down in the
+river--the reply was very satisfactory; namely, "plenty, and a FLOOD
+COMING DOWN from the Turmountains." The two policemen said they had
+travelled twenty miles with it, on the day previous, and that it would
+still take some time to arrive near our camp. About noon the drays
+arrived in good order, having been encamped where there was no water
+about six miles short of our camp, the whole distance travelled, from
+Cannonbà to the Macquarie, having been about nineteen miles. In the
+afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the river, reported on their
+return, that the flood poured in upon them when in the river bed, so
+suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed of the Macquarie
+before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I could scarcely
+believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who had been put
+to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I stationed a man
+with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on the flood's
+appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the channel
+nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to see, as
+well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came, however,
+but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp. Some
+hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like that of
+a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking
+timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very
+slow degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw
+various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood
+appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending
+of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene moonlight
+night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of waters and
+loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the next bend.
+It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a moving cataract,
+tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them against its banks. It
+was preceded by a point of meandering water, picking its way, like a
+thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark, dry, and shady bed,
+of what thus again became a flowing river. By my party, situated as we
+were at that time, beating about the country, and impeded in our journey,
+solely by the almost total absence of water--suffering excessively from
+thirst and extreme heat,--I am convinced the scene never can be
+forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the product of storms in the far
+off mountains, that overlooked our homes. My first impulse was to have
+welcomed this flood on our knees, for the scene was sublime in itself,
+while the subject--an abundance of water sent to us in a desert--greatly
+heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice it to say, I had witnessed
+nothing of such interest in all my Australian travels. Even the heavens
+presented something new, at least uncommon, and therefore in harmony with
+this scene; the variable star ARGUS had increased to the first magnitude,
+just above the beautiful constellation of the southern cross, which
+slightly inclined over the river, in the only portion of sky seen through
+the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly increasing in magnitude,
+might, as characteristic of her rivers, be recognized as the star of
+Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The river gradually filled up
+the channel nearly bank high, while the living cataract travelled onward,
+much slower than I had expected to see it; so slowly, indeed, that more
+than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet music of the head of the
+flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the murmur of waters, and
+the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly through the tortuous
+windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to sleep by that melody
+of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and evidently so unwonted in the
+dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon,
+79°; at 4 P. M., 88°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+14TH FEBRUARY.--The river had risen to within six feet of the top of the
+banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but no
+longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion
+downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the
+Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a
+probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing
+the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the
+Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling
+soon into a cart track which led us to Gràway, Mr. Kinghorne's
+cattlestation, and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of
+the river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so
+generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of
+the marshes. The IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, with its long head of white silky
+flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock, on
+the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P. M.,
+82°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 60°. Height above the level of the sea,
+475 feet.
+
+15TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day, and
+guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have his
+assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other
+objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees
+of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was
+visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon.
+Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most formidable
+impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty of these got
+astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank of rather firm
+ground, in lat. 30° 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on some parts of
+open plains near the marshes, and the best was the PANICUM LOEVINODE of
+Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as having been found
+pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we could not then discover.
+Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was called by the natives "coolly,"
+and that the gins gather it in great quantities, and pound the seeds
+between stones with water, forming a kind of paste or bread; thus was
+clearly explained the object of those heaps of this grass which we had
+formerly seen on the banks of the Darling. There they had formed the
+native's harvest field. There also I observed a brome grass, probably not
+distinct from the BROODS AUSTRALIS of Brown; it called to mind the
+squarrose brome grass of Europe. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon,
+87°; at 4, 89°; at 9, 73°;--with wet bulb, 66°.
+
+[* Vol. i. p. 237.]
+
+16TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to examine
+Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be found in it
+lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with the store-
+keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost sheep in
+the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not very far
+from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the flock.
+Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the cattle.
+We had still the Macquarie at hand--deep, muddy, and stagnant--not above
+thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could scarcely approach
+the water without sinking to the knees. We could water the horses with
+buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of filling one of the
+half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means, was inevitable,
+and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a wheel required
+repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these reasons found
+it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly. At sunset,
+Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the "Marra," (Duck
+Creek).
+
+Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the ANDROPOGON
+SERICEUS and an ERIANTHUS, which appeared to differ from E. FULVUS in
+having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the European LYTHRUM
+SALICARIA, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among the reeds of the
+Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the Thames. We saw also
+MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D. C.), a variety with toothed
+leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling B. HETERODONTA, only the leaves were
+entire. A new species of LOTUS appeared among the reeds, very near the
+narrow-leaved form of L. AUSTRALIS on the one hand, and the South
+European narrow-leaved form of L. CORNICULATUS on the other; the flowers
+were pink, and smaller than in L. AUSTRALIS.[*] Also an ETHULIA [**],
+which may, on further examination, constitute a new genus; it was found
+by Allan Cunningham on the Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
+86°; at 4 P.M., 84°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus
+v. lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3--6-
+floris, calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-
+acuminatis tubo suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.]
+
+[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo, foliis
+oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis
+globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis
+paucis brevibus.]
+
+17TH FEBRUARY.--The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne having shown
+me a few miles more of the best ground between the scrubs and reeds, went
+towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie, where a belt of open
+forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass. He prevailed on a
+native whom he met with there to come with him to me, and to guide me to
+water until I reached the Bàrwan. This native at first seemed rather
+afraid of our numerous party, but our own native, Yuranigh, endeavoured
+by every means to make him at ease, and to induce him to remain with us.
+He guided us this day by fine open ground westward of the marshes, to a
+part of the Macquarie where the banks were solid enough to admit of the
+cattle drinking. The name was Bilgawàngara; I reached the spot early, but
+at sunset no drays had come up. At length I was informed that such was
+the softness of the soil, that the drays had sank frequently, that two
+were fast in one place, four in another, and that two of the bullocks
+were astray. The marshes were said to be just then occupied by some angry
+tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne had warned me to be on my guard. The
+patience necessary to any traveller depending on bullocks and bullock
+drivers, I then thought ought to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was
+very shy, and Yuranigh feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for
+finding water--on our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not
+have done then to have sent him away. The weather might change, and these
+marshes become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of
+Providence in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red
+Sea. It depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be
+considered Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the
+moon had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat.
+30° 45' 55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4 P.M., 88°;
+at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+18TH FEBRUARY.--Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind, and the
+iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The
+cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's
+journey without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of
+the two lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to
+little Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had
+lost them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search,
+as Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of
+entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his
+escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that
+the white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the
+country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere
+child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them being
+young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds.
+
+In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the
+native tobacco, NICOTIANA SUAVEOLEUS, the MINURIA HETEROPHYLLA (D.C.),
+found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a FUGOSIA near F.
+DIGITATA of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery ATRIPLEX
+with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 93°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 67°;--
+with wet bulb 59°.
+
+[* A. NUMMULARIA (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis
+alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque
+argenteis, floribus monoïcis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis
+subrotundis dentatis basi connatis.]
+
+19TH FEBRUARY.--We set off early, guided by our native friend. He was a
+very perfect specimen of the GENUS HOMO, and such as never is to be seen,
+except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale of
+graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free
+enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than
+can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod
+animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs;
+the fulness yet perfect elasticity of the GLUTEI muscles. The hollowness
+of the back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso,
+ornamented as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised
+scarifications most tastefully placed; such were some of the
+characteristics of this perfect "piece of work." Compared with it, the
+civilised animal, when considered merely in the light of a specimen in
+natural history, how inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of
+that class, for such teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of
+sight, hearing, smelling, tasting, feeling; for such powers of running,
+climbing, or walking; for such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of
+all that nature provides for her children of the woods. Such health and
+exemption from disease; such intensity of existence, in short, must be
+far beyond the enjoyments of civilised men, with all that art can do for
+them; and the proof of this is to be found in the failure of all attempts
+to persuade these free denizens of uncultivated earth to forsake it for
+the tilled ground. They prefer the land unbroken and free from the
+earliest curse pronounced against the first banished and first created
+man. The only kindness we could do for them, would be to let them and
+their wide range of territory alone; to act otherwise and profess good-
+will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the land without producing a
+change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that which took place on
+man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have hitherto lived utterly
+ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or the utility of
+ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would, no doubt,
+prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to original sin,
+even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were the reflections
+suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped on lightly before
+me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our party, who,
+muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in favour of our
+pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our faithful Yuranigh
+was all that could be wished. He was assiduously making to the stranger
+such explanations of our wants and purposes, as induced him to conduct us
+in the direction these required. He led us, thus admonished, over those
+parts of the country most favourable for the passage of wheels. The
+rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts were covered with most
+luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a salt-bush plain, where
+there was a small pond of water left by the last rains on a clay surface.
+There was certainly enough for ourselves and horses, but it appeared that
+our guide had greatly underrated the capacity for water, of our hundred
+bullocks. For these, however, there was superb grass to the westward, and
+a little dew fell on it during the night. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at
+noon, 102°; at 4 P. M., 104°; at 9, 77°;--with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+20TH FEBRUARY.--From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as
+possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather
+soft, otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the
+westward, and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow
+belts of reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great
+satisfaction to learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A
+shallow creek appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide
+had expected to find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently
+drank up there, what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He
+showed us the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were
+made to feel, in common with the aborigines, those privations to which
+they are exposed by the white man's access to their country. On
+proceeding some miles further, our guide following down the channel, he
+at length appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe,
+on which Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and
+there, in fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in
+the attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wámmerawá,
+the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and
+marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds may
+have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from the
+"balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan,
+Murrumbidgee, and Millewà; the former being a cane or bamboo, the latter
+a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found good
+grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was fringed
+with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA
+observed at Mudá on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the
+spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the teams
+of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been damaged; the
+six others were brought up in the course of the evening. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 60°; at 4 P. M., 103°; at 9, 78°;--with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+21ST FEBRUARY.--The first thing done this morning was to send back cattle
+to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it might be
+repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the journey
+by 1 P. M. The barometer was going down at a rate which was alarming
+enough, considering what our position must have been there in a flood, or
+even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward with the
+light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 P. M. to
+"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again,
+he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden
+the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water
+that night, nor until we could reach the Bàrwan, then distant, I was
+quite sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude
+observed (30° 19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back
+directions that the drays should at once halt, taking their places beside
+the leading dray, and that the cattle should be driven back in the
+morning to be watered at the last camp (Warranb), and then to return and
+follow in my track. Mr. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to
+serve out a week's rations to the party with the drays, and he returned
+to my camp by 2 A. M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the
+former messenger, rations for my party. Here we found the KERAUDRENIA
+INTEGRIFOLIA. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 105°; at 9, 83°;--
+with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+22D FEBRUARY.--My guide was now desirous that I should cross the
+Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more favourable
+for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by drawing
+lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would cross and
+impede my journey to the Bàrwan. There were the Castlereagh, Morissett's
+Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct, which it
+was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least fifty
+miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.]
+
+An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the
+necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in
+communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills which
+partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was
+Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that some
+flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we might
+therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie. This,
+with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made intelligible
+to our Bàrwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly. He took us
+through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water usually
+lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay happens to
+be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But the water in
+these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled into hard clay
+by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first become
+sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots, where
+nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are well
+known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and such
+places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by the
+most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can exist
+apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers. Cattle
+find these places and come from stations often many miles distant,
+attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus
+treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy
+the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the
+kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more
+disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain
+every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot"
+should appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually
+happened to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want
+of water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110°. The store-keeper
+was taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and the
+fate of the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the sheep,
+which had not drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to me at
+that time. It may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at length
+saw before me large basins of water in the channel of the Macquarie, when
+I next approached the banks, after a journey at a good pace for six hours
+and a half. We had made it below the junction of Morissett's Ponds, and
+found that a recent flood had filled its channel with water. The natives
+dived into it to cure their headaches, as they said, and seemed to go
+completely under water, in order to take a cool drink. We had reached the
+united channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's Ponds, and were at an
+easy day's journey only distant from the junction with the BÀRWAN or
+"Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this river is indispensable
+amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not appear to know it to be
+the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to such rivers their
+proper names as early as possible after they have been ascertained, were
+it only to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves of the
+intelligence and assistance of the natives, in identifying the country by
+means of the published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to the
+natives as the Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wàwill; and the lower part
+of the Macquarie, as the Wammerawà. The squatting system of occupation
+requires still more that the native names of rivers should be known to
+commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast extent,
+whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach or
+control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line the
+squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 110°; at 4 P. M., 107°; at 9, 89°;
+--with wet bulb 72°.
+
+23RD FEBRUARY.--The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence of
+them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I had
+sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to send
+forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought me
+word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the
+morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him. They
+had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the water,
+as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was excessive,
+a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the banks of the
+Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus SCLEROLOENA was remarked;
+it was perhaps not distinct from S. UNIFLORA. The GOODENIA GENICULATA
+overran the ground, with its strawberry-like runners, and yellow flowers.
+Latitude, 30° 12' 56" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 105°; at 4
+P.M., 94°; at 9, 73°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+24TH FEBRUARY.--Some of the teams came up, having been out all night. The
+drivers brought me word that they had been detached at twilight to come
+six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could not see my
+track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks had strayed
+from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of delay by the
+bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey (thirteen
+miles) of the Bàrwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days, and
+really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers
+seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 80°; at 4
+P.M., 85°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+25TH FEBRUARY.--In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the stray
+bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a bullock
+driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the track of
+the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°;
+at noon, 90°; at 4 P.M., 94°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+26TH FEBRUARY.--Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only one of
+the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace
+twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the day; he
+said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in with. I
+blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him forthwith on
+foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we were doomed
+to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by carrying on the
+mapping of our survey, in order to make good our longitude at crossing
+the Bàrwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 101°;
+at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 62.°
+
+27TH FEBRUARY.--When the teams were about to be put to the drays this
+morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed the
+party until 10 A.M., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I
+reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a
+proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such
+unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground,
+having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about
+six miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and
+said they called that the "Bàrwan." As it was still a mere chain of
+ponds, though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel;
+he also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was
+convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the
+channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the
+junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it,
+however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after
+him, to rejoin the party.
+
+I this day gave "Yulliyàlly," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe,
+tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne,
+certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 62°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P.M., 97°; at 9, 70°;--
+with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+28TH FEBRUARY.--The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp at 6
+A.M., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost
+bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came
+upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a
+stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawà, on which I had been
+encamped, joined the Bàrwan, then on my right, within two miles of the
+spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr.
+Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and
+on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna,
+Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Bàrwan. I turned
+with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Bàrwan, and encamped
+thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which our
+exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a good
+current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like a
+river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good
+ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had
+been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the
+cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of
+Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which we
+had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot
+weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*] Thermometer
+at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 101°; at 4 P.M., 100°; at 9, with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+[* Calotis SCAPIGERA (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus
+radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis
+robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.--A very
+distinct species. Habit of BRACHYSTEPHIUM SCAPIGERUM D. C.: but that
+ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in
+proportion to the size of the capitulum.]
+
+1ST MARCH.--When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher
+point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or
+bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we found
+it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot
+season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle
+stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary
+arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed quite
+unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length
+arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many
+rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final
+outlet or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch
+one might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the
+same river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood
+had gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast
+regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another
+instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more apparent to
+man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or attentively
+examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to him. The very
+slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains seems finely
+adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this part of the
+earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern coastranges
+were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of sustained
+current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such inclined
+channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread into a
+net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill
+lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous
+channel, would at once run off into the ocean.
+
+[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been
+wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as CARÀWY, which the name
+resembles, means any deep water-hole.]
+
+In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route with
+our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have preferred,
+and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the known limits of
+this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which the route
+necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had not lost
+time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over very
+considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more desirable
+to any country we might discover, than one liable to be interrupted by
+flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of our drays, along
+the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a new and direct route
+from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by way of Bathurst; and
+afforded access to a vast extent of excellent pasturage on the Macquarie,
+along the western margin of the marshes, which land would, no doubt, be
+soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a climate, and where water is so
+frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found that the shortest line of
+route with such advantages would be more frequented than any longer line,
+possessing only the remote advantage of security from interruption by too
+much water. Thermometer at sunrise, 64°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P.M., 101°;
+at 9, 81°; with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+2ND MARCH--MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyàbry, (Mr.
+Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays,
+although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better
+approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so
+attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without
+some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I sent
+some men to the last-mentioned work.
+
+I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the
+rivers Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains
+having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the
+Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to
+guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a
+distance of only seven miles beyond the Bàrwan there at the "Morella
+Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain
+seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were
+very fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously
+ascertained to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr.
+Lindley CAPPARIS MITCHELLII.[*] We found back from this camp the
+RUTIDOSIS HELYCHRYSOIDES of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at
+noon, 101°; at 4 P.M.; 100°; at 9, 78°; and with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.]
+
+3D MARCH.--Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better
+approaches to the ford across the Bàrwan at Mr. Parnell's station.
+Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and
+Darling at our present camp to be 147° 33' 45" E., by actual measurements
+connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr. Kennedy had chained
+the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had connected his work with
+latitudes observed at almost every encampment, and after determining at
+various points the magnetic variation, which appeared to be very steady,
+I made the latitude of this camp 30° 6' 11" south. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 72°; at noon, 99°; at 4 P.M., 97°; at 9, 72°; and with wet bulb,
+65°. The height above the sea level of the bed of the river here, the
+average result of eight observations, as calculated by Capt. King, was
+415 feet.
+
+4TH MARCH.--The party moved off towards the ford over the Bàrwan at
+Wyàbry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its
+junction with the Bàrwan; there, although the approaches had been well
+enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of
+which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft
+and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which earth
+was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived about
+noon at Wyàbry, and by 2 P.M. the whole was safely encamped on the right
+bank of the Bàrwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from my son,
+commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most favourable
+account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of my proposed
+route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the hands of a
+native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr. Lawson, being
+then on his way down the river, had promised to send them to me, from a
+station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke, where it had been
+supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30° 5' 41" S. On this
+northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in botany, and found
+some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of SENERIO
+BRACHYLOENUS D. C., a kind of groundsel; MORGANIA FLORIBUNDA, loaded with
+purple blossoms, and a variety of HELICHRYSUM BRACTEATUM, somewhat
+different in the leaves from the usual state of the species. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 70°; at 4 P.M., 98°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+
+
+Chapter III.
+
+THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED BY
+TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS OR
+SPRINGS CALLED "CARÀWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH
+THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART OF
+SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY
+EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST
+RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY
+CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT BANK.--
+ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH GRASS ON
+THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN RECONNOITRE
+THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A NATIVE.--TWO
+NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH THE ASSEMBLED
+POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE TRIBES.--CORDIAL
+RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE
+NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE
+BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY, CATTLE
+MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DÉPÔT CAMP AT
+A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM
+SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.
+
+5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two natives,
+brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the Narran,
+which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles we
+passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the left,
+which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of conglomerate
+rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains of quartz
+cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become undulating ground as
+we proceeded northward, and the surface became firmer. At length the
+country opened into slight undulations, well clothed with grass, and good
+for travelling over, the soil being full of the same hard rock found on
+the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the lowest parts of that
+river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed to be but the
+decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles of quartz so
+thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places so thickly as
+to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses grew on those
+plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm undulating
+stony surface and open character of the country, where I had expected to
+see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight
+elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a
+name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations TOO LOW to
+be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of
+route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much
+novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The ANGOPHORA LANCEOLATA
+was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some
+very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the ACACIA
+STENOPHYLLA of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such profusion
+as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I supposed it
+was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another place many of
+the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and learnt from our
+guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat resembled that of the
+Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Mùnumulà is the native name. The grasses
+comprised a great variety, and amongst the plants a beautiful little
+BRUNONIA, not more than four inches high, with smaller flower-heads than
+those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely at all lobed, and a hairy
+indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although the fruit had been
+gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown, was also here; and I
+saw one or two trees of a species of CAPPARIS. Mr. Stephenson found a
+great variety of new insects also.
+
+[* B. SIMPLEX (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque
+longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,
+bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]
+
+Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some verdant
+grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water; and here
+we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds were called
+"Caràwy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to pass on
+towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed, twenty-five
+miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some natives running
+off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we should do them no
+harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake them. The
+undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and west in
+their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general course of
+the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in other
+parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the
+fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much
+resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these
+springs we found a new HELICHRYSUM.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+[* HELICHRYSUM RAMOSISSIMUM (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde ramosum
+arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis acutis,
+capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri
+squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]
+
+6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the excessive
+length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(16½ miles by
+latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a beautiful
+cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of fresh branches
+of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted home of the
+fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods of the
+acacia already mentioned (Mùnumulà). The water was surrounded by fresh
+herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such the home
+whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable guides, I
+could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon trample
+these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding verdure
+and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured but acute
+guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid race.
+
+[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may LAUGH inwardly--
+conscience may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]
+
+All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our
+drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting
+before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be
+watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question; and
+this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward to ask
+if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly exhausted. The
+fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in the morning, after
+passing a night without water, had been adopted, and as, on the day
+before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of reaching my
+camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly directed them
+to be brought forward; but the consequence of this derangement was the
+death of one, and much injury to many others. This contretemps arose
+wholly from the guides not having been understood at the Barwan as to the
+real distance, and this we had calculated too surely upon. Latitude 29°
+52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 96°; at 4 P. M.,
+102°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had been
+watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 A. M. I left them in Mr.
+Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all the
+bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that had
+been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more. The
+guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had understood
+when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles from these
+springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the country to
+improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the most open parts of
+scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend clearly how desirable
+that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after travelling about seven miles,
+they pointed to a line of trees as the "Narran," beyond an extensive open
+country, which had a singular appearance from being higher than that we
+were upon. We crossed one or two slight elevations wholly composed of
+compact felspar in blocks--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of
+strata, whereof the strike always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious
+new plants and fruits appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of
+which was a very pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread
+over several yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an
+elongated egg; it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the
+natives "Doobàh." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best
+roasted. As we approached the elevated country between us and the distant
+line of trees, we perceived that the vast level was covered with
+POLYGONUM JUNCEUM in a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as
+I had never seen elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called
+it, which looks ever quite dry and withered along the margins of the
+Darling. We had good reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we
+found amongst it pure water in great abundance, into which all our native
+companions immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This,
+they said, was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the
+name of Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps.
+They seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and
+pointed to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran
+was there. I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the
+nearest trees beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft
+mud, precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of
+bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now
+far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a
+position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the
+intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare
+materials for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a
+small clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did
+not encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by
+the westward, in which direction the open country extended to the
+horizon. The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by
+wet ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where
+horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had
+been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water
+until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.
+Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward to
+the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all
+the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays
+there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense
+heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the day,
+rose to 103° in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp, 29° 45'
+51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 P. M., 97°; at 9,
+69°; ditto with wet bulb, 57°. The height of this camp above the sea, the
+average of five registered observations, is 442 feet.
+
+8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most extensive.
+Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual appearance
+there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet still
+the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between that
+slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been so
+scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great
+distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no
+longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I
+set the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the
+muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed
+it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,
+beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp
+came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before
+us, which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the
+southward, was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual
+rock, felspar; and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded
+the further progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended
+north-west, as most others did in this extensive basin; and this
+direction being nearly parallel to that of the coast ranges further
+northward, seemed to afford additional reason for expecting to find
+anticlinal and synclinal lines, and, consequently, rivers, much in the
+same direction. D'Urban's group, distant 150 miles lower down the
+Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock, exactly similar to this,
+exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into irregular polygons, some of
+the faces being curved. This rock is most extensively distributed in the
+interior of New South Wales. It was not until the evening of this day
+that the approach of the drays was announced, and then prematurely, the
+teams only having been brought forward to the water without them. So weak
+were the unfortunate animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the
+numbers, could they be made to draw the drays forward, for the short
+distance of eight miles; a distance which we had been given to understand
+was so much greater. Forward, all was most promising, and it may be
+imagined how bitterly I regretted the alteration of my original plan of
+equipment, which had reference to horses and light carts alone. A new
+species of ANTHISTIRIA occurred here, perfectly distinct from the
+kangaroo grass of the colony, very like APLUDA MUTICA, and remarkable for
+the smooth shining appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The
+TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its
+long silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very
+curious new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of CYPERUS; the TRICHINIUM
+LANATUM in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed
+(CALAMAGROSTIS of England), and which proved to be the little-known
+TRIRAPHIS MOLLIS. On the margin of the morass the DACTYLOCTENIUM
+RADULANS, spreading over the interstices, reminded the traveller of the
+grasses of Egypt; and, in stony ground near the morass, we observed the
+JUSTICIA MEDIA of Brown. Thermometer at sunrise, 66°; at noon, 98°; at 4
+P. M. 102°; at 9, 81°; ditto with wet bulb, 74°.
+
+[* A. MEMBRANACEA (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine membranaceis
+foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis pedicellatis
+(masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, aristâ glaberrimâ glumâ 3plo
+longiore.]
+
+[** K. LANOSA (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis
+cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]
+
+9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to return,
+and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be extremely
+useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went forward
+this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our interpreter,
+all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine reaches of water
+appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to the northward, but
+which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp, abruptly terminated
+like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it went to, they
+pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp as the final
+depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the contents of a
+river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate so hot and
+dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which led us nearly
+due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on a good
+gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing a
+slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the
+shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we
+again came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for
+about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and
+lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and
+with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent
+grass. The PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a
+grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of
+paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly
+for the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles.
+I counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass
+only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow
+back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a
+very open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any
+other part of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of
+the natives; and these children of the soil were doing every thing in
+their power to assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the
+white man's cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives
+during the whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and
+I to see them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and
+not at all unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce
+us to the inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us
+further. The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost
+to prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 99°;
+at 4 P. M., 105°; at 9, 83°; ditto with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I
+continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but
+with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,
+through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the
+river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc.
+We were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no
+perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had
+examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and the
+dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and
+banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide
+said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp we
+kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.
+This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water our
+horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,
+under a temperature of 105° in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently
+about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of
+perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on
+the level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very
+tired, however, and pointed to the large muscles of the RECTUS FEMORIS as
+if they pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the
+drays that had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring
+double teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity
+of our camp we found the TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM, with heads of flowers
+nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near E. PULVERULENTA, but having
+more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall
+glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy KOCHIA was
+intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77°; at noon,
+102°; at 4, 107°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+[* H. GLAUCA (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis
+oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grossè serratis, racemis
+apice aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]
+
+[** K. VILLOSA (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus
+villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]
+
+11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives, the
+tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the stockman
+on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that they had been
+very useful. I this morning examined the country to the westward of the
+swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could pass, and so avoid much
+soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the watery Narran penetrated into
+the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting there little hollows full of
+rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so unwonted amongst rocks
+characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one little hollow, to the
+westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two men with a pickaxe and
+shovel to have continued it through, and so to have opened a new channel
+for the passage of the waters of the Narran swamp, into the dry country
+between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 55°; at noon, 105°; at
+4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the jaded
+bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses I might
+have continued the journey. The very extensive country before us, which
+appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and irrigated
+by little canals winding amongst POLYGONUM JUNCEUM. This open country
+appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles, thence to turn
+eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to the Barwan. I
+regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to admit of our
+tracing its limits to the eastward.
+
+This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he
+strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and
+Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river
+which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,
+almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was
+already on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his
+account of the rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged
+to depend, even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.
+
+This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two platforms,
+to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp, could be passed
+without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the drays. The
+sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS),
+found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen feet long, two
+feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long, fixed at each
+end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled a wooden
+railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry both
+wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was
+filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,
+alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to
+support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge
+or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 107°;
+at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays trundled
+across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in the event of
+an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable on our return.
+Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing over a gravelly
+bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The drays were slow in
+arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft and hollow, but by
+sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on the Narran.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 71°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 100°; at 9,
+71°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The height of this camp above the sea,
+according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.
+
+14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance, to a
+distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I
+intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five
+miles, that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work,
+might have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however,
+again occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now
+it was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It
+really seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on
+bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until
+9 A. M., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran, after
+travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found the
+fragrant JASMINUM LINEARE in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a bulb
+which proved to be the ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM of Brown; a shrub ten feet
+high, in fruit, the CANTHIUM OLEIFOLIUM of Sir William Hooker; a fine new
+CHENOPODIUM, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*]; and a
+hoary variety of ACACIA LEPTOCLADA, or perhaps a distinct species, having
+a good deal of the aspect of A. DEALBATA, but the leaves and glands
+nearer those of A. LEPTOCLADA, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 70°; at noon, 103°; at 4 P. M., 102°; at 9, 81°;--with wet bulb,
+75°.
+
+[* C. AURICOMUM (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,
+foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis
+lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris
+tomentosis.]
+
+15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding, that
+the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without great
+difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the
+drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a
+process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not
+until 1 A. M. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought
+to the camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the
+field of discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were
+unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive
+heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks
+unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter
+party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,
+leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depôt, on
+some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29° 38' 21" south.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 73°; at noon, 84°; at 4 P. M., 86°; at 9, 65°;--
+with wet bulb, 60°.
+
+16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend of the
+Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant grass. The
+drays arrived by 11 A. M. in such good order, that I was induced to try
+whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short journeys, the party
+could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I could leave the whole in
+one depôt, to rest and refresh, while I took my intended ride forward.
+Latitude, 29° 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 86°; at 4
+P. M., 87°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward as well
+as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the progress
+of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains were
+evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered wholly
+impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29° 29' 11" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 87°; at 4 P. M., 91°; at 9, 62°;--
+with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft ground;
+all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising
+ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,
+at a distance of 2½ miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual
+conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch in
+bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly
+ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.
+Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked, upon
+the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris
+forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.
+From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a
+good direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony
+ground I found a new PITTOSPORUM five feet high, with long narrow leaves,
+in the way of P. ROEANUM and ANGUSTIFOLIUM, but distinct from both in the
+form of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29° 25' 21". Thermometer at
+sunrise, 53°; at noon, 90°; at 4 P. M., 96°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb,
+61°.
+
+[* P. SALICINUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis
+acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus,
+fructibus subglobosis vix compressis.]
+
+19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank, our
+course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after travelling
+six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for the drays,
+but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward, and I
+contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again, by
+travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been marked
+out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found a
+fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five
+miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it,
+I returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude
+observed, 29° 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57°; at 4 P. M., 96°;
+at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we proceeded in a
+nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than we had recently
+traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found amongst much
+excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of Anthistiria
+appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort, although
+this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains westward
+of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of moisture. Here,
+however, this variety presented the same knotty head, where other grasses
+grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme eastern turn of the
+Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks appeared in the bed, as if
+the river was passing through the stock of the gravelly ridge I had
+visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found about the basin of
+the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much felspar, and having
+pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of the conglomerate in
+the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at the edges. Here the
+poor natives had been very industrious, as was evident from heaps of the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE, and of the same redstalked coral-like plant,
+also mentioned as having been observed in similar heaps, on the banks of
+the Darling, during my journey of 1835 (vol. i. p. 238). I now
+ascertained that the seed of the latter is also collected by the natives
+and made into a paste. This seed was black and small, resembling fine
+gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was sweet and pleasant to the
+taste, possessing a nutty flavour.
+
+The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in
+these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft
+smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil
+bore the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and
+amongst them those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with
+the prints likewise of other BIPEDS, such as emus and kangaroos, and also
+those of the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other
+animals all new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man
+alone were familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other
+animals, simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much
+afraid of us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed
+strange, that in a climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise,
+the circumstances of man's existence should be the most degrading.
+Latitude of our camp, 29° 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The mean
+elevation above the sea of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in
+number, was 477 feet; the bed of the river being about 15 feet lower.
+
+[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way To kailyards green, While faithless
+   snaws ilk step betray Whar she has been."   BURNS.]
+
+21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming
+favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some
+traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner
+Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded
+the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to his
+map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with gently
+sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances induced me to
+cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward, until meeting
+with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran, where we
+encamped in latitude 29° 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
+noon, 97°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 72°; ditto with wet bulb, 66°.
+
+22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the
+surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on
+Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded
+rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At
+one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a
+ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of
+compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which
+large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial decomposition
+of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them once more to the
+action of water. The force of those waters, however, had not been
+sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending right
+across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps, of a
+river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and terminating
+in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 98°;
+at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 66°. Height above the sea, 515 feet, from
+eight observations.
+
+23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,
+soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,
+almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we pursued
+a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the Narran
+at 8½ miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,
+especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small bush
+bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among the
+sedges by the river we found the KYLLINGA MONOCEPHALA; and, on the rich
+black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with
+large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small
+bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of
+Brown's SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, or a new species distinguished by its narrow
+sharp-pointed leaves. The LORANTHUS LINEARI. FOLIUS was growing on the
+rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by the
+parasitical ORANGE LORANTH.[*] Lat., 29°1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,
+51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 P. M., 99°; at 9, 70°;--wet bulb, 63°.
+
+[* L. AURANTIACUS (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus,
+foliis oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve
+acuminatis glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio
+brevioribus ditrichotomis, floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis
+superne latioribus truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem
+geniculato, stigmate dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.]
+
+24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach the
+Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the
+Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to
+the northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn
+towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far
+from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary
+to descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn
+pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we
+had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low
+range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,
+covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller
+the most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached
+the Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had
+travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it
+was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the
+cattle should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to
+lose one day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals.
+Casuarinae now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks
+of the Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods
+we passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a
+different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the
+colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be a
+broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.
+We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,
+GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having
+long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*]
+The rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with
+yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed
+from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed
+amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,
+with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the
+bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.
+
+[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus
+pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]
+
+[** Loranthus LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus
+acutis carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus
+bifloris, calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6
+linearibus supra basin coalitis.]
+
+The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked
+Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29° 6' 33"
+S.; therm. at sunrise, 48°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 74°; ditto with wet
+bulb, 62°.
+
+25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.
+Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate
+journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I
+found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its
+course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges
+on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came
+from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued
+northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed
+through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence descending
+in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs, and only
+reached the river after riding 2½ miles in that direction. I saw a
+continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river
+bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where
+the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who
+did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from him,
+and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a
+beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on
+the bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back,
+until within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of
+the party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a
+species of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct.
+The teams brought the drays in, about 5 P. M.; one animal of all being
+missing. Therm. at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 89°; at 4 P. M., 91°; at 9,
+60°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in search
+of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and proceeded
+along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the party, having
+found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late encampment. The
+natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having previously set fire to the
+grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their fires, and encamped on the
+river bank in lat. 29° 1' 57" S.
+
+A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow
+portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of
+withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the ashes
+of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass
+(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but
+constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the
+only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired
+on our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to
+drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both
+these kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me
+one of their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum,
+and tied with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it
+carefully where he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon,
+90°; at 4 P. M., 95°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 60°. The mean height
+above the sea of the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet.
+
+27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,
+which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks after
+a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the
+vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought
+by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more
+decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses
+against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the
+plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew
+abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of
+the POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the
+immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an
+infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes
+happened, other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me
+to a distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great
+novelty to us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long
+before we crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang
+fruit (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed
+that we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as
+the quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat.
+28° 55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 90°; at 4 P. M., 89;
+at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+28TH MARCH.--At 2 A. M., loud thunder was heard in the south-west, where
+a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops of rain
+fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from S. W.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56°. We proceeded, travelling chiefly amongst
+very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the westward of
+my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when on the
+other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its banks
+after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to place
+the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance, managed
+to prevent him from running away. He spoke only "Jerwoolleroy," a dialect
+which my native did not understand at all well. He told us, however, that
+this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to the Balonne. Upon the
+whole we gathered from him that neither that river nor the Bokhara was
+far from us. I endeavoured to convince him, by Youranigh's assurances,
+and our own civility to him, that we meant no harm to any natives, and
+were only passing through the country. He did not seem afraid, although
+he had never, until then, seen white men. We encamped near him. The river
+channel was very narrow, and contained but little water here-abouts. I
+understood from the native (through Youranigh) that the river here spread
+into various channels, and that "BARRO" was the name of a river beyond
+the Culg, which falls into it from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the
+lagoon on which we encamped after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near
+this camp we found a PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a
+SESBANIA near S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM
+AURICOMUM, formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 78°; at 4 P. M., 82°; at 9, 61°;--
+with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr. Kennedy
+forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a more
+direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied by one of
+the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He returned in
+about four hours, having found the river coming from the northward, and
+he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°;
+at 4 P. M., 81°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at sunrise
+only 42°. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on over fine
+grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At length,
+about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there was
+one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only
+see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running
+north. We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran,
+after a journey of about eight miles.
+
+We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species of
+eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and other
+parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 P.
+M., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Mean height of the camps of the
+27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet.
+
+31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed across
+the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary to
+see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not
+of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,
+branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main
+channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it
+again. Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every
+respect the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by
+observing the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of
+the current. We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with
+some lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I
+wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the
+ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where was
+the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were heard
+immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh and then to
+me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other was a lad
+of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne (BALONGO) as
+quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was quite evident
+from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper native name,
+but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an article they very
+often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in speaking of the
+Barwan, they say "Barwàngo." I had nearly completed the usual short
+journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was unwilling to lose
+the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on under their
+guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for the camp.
+This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them Tooningora, nearly
+on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with ducks. We had
+passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native friends, and over
+a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from scrub. It was
+evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I continued to
+follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the party to encamp,
+in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and the river Balonne.
+After going forward thus about four miles, we saw five gins running off
+at a great distance across some open plains, apparently near the river.
+The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I requested him to assure
+them that the white men would do no harm, and to tell them not to run
+away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared to carry unseemly loads
+across their backs, dangling under large opossum-skin cloaks, and it was
+evident that these were mummied bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but
+had not before seen it. I had then but a distant view of these females,
+as they resumed their flight, and continued it until they reached woods
+bounding the plain on the westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great
+Balonne river ran parallel to our march westward, and there also,
+according to my guides, was "Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and
+which spot I most anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials.
+Still my guides led westward towards the woods, and as we approached
+them, the shout or scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan,
+follower of my camp, first drew my attention to a black phalanx within
+the forest, of natives presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my
+interpreter halted and remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on
+his reaching that body, the sound of gruff voices that arose from it
+strongly reminded me of Milton's description of Satan's army:
+
+"Their rising all at once was as the sound Of thunder heard remote."
+
+Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by the
+other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those fellows
+were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our footsteps to
+the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo. Our guide soon
+overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange natives, who, all
+curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they brought with them a lad
+named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and had visited many of our
+cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to Youranigh, who but very
+imperfectly understood the language of the rest. They seemed upon the
+whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food consisted of the fish of
+the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon, CUCUMIS PUBESCENS,
+which grew in such abundance, that the whole country seemed strewed with
+the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives eat great quantities, and
+were very fond. It is about the size of a plum only, and in the journal
+of my first interior journey (in 1831), is mentioned as a cucumber we
+were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude of camp, 28° 38' 47" S.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb,
+57°.
+
+1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 A. M.,
+still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne. On
+our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy hollows
+could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in due
+form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party to
+halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on the
+right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other
+women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared, formed a
+circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to me. I
+desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way across the
+Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb them, etc.
+When all was said that could be said, and I was about to return, one of
+the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he must have learnt
+at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I returned the
+compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave. Soon after, we
+arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river as I have
+seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a slight
+current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less elevated
+above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel surpassed
+that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.
+
+We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was
+"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the
+natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,
+having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the
+first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had
+gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where
+he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered
+his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's
+conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to
+go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe,
+to other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without
+claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at
+such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us
+strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts
+of civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather
+rare. He had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the
+danger of sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our
+introduction by him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the
+bullock-drivers, found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut
+the banks, and fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches,
+and earth, for the better passage of the drays; a work they completed
+before night. I rode about five miles beyond the river to the north-west,
+and met, first with a very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level
+with the plains, and apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this,
+a river or chain of ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained
+was called the Càwan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The
+country was rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees,
+and the plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the
+Balonne, 28° 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 75°; at 4
+P.M., 79°; at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height of the bed of the
+Balonne above the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three
+observations.
+
+2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning in
+good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little bridge
+we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place seemed to me
+so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find some of
+the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the natives on
+this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks made by white
+men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank of the river, and
+was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns," the other with
+"Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was really at or near
+the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell had crossed, and
+found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles north-west, I
+determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that river, taking my
+track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad lagoon.
+
+On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with hoop
+nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He returned
+accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin, who had
+been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his nets,
+and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct us to
+the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a
+detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a word
+of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to overcome
+the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives, and their
+shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become our guide.
+He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles from the
+Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service and true
+civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron tomahawk, and
+I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for him to keep. He
+then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five miles off. This
+river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed than, the one we
+had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a principal
+river, and really looked more important than the Barwan, except that its
+waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees overhang the banks,
+and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I should say that these
+and much sand were the chief characteristics of the Culgoa. There were no
+recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed that they did not much
+frequent that part of the river. The grass along the banks was very
+luxuriant. Latitude 28° 31' 19" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 39°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°. The height of
+this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet above the bed of
+the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations.
+
+3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the
+banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our
+heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,
+however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 35°; at noon, 80°.; at 4 P.M., 77°; at 9, 49°;
+and with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the Culgoa
+upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending along the
+right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was favourable to
+our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in exploring that
+river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we had crossed
+the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the south, to this
+river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and Fort Bourke.
+That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable, had the rains
+set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over the dry, firm
+ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the left bank of
+the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season, indeed more
+conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had fallen at this
+time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern interior;
+but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for some
+degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the Commissioner of
+the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we should arrive at a
+better watered country.
+
+Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which grew
+luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us of the
+banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact counterpart,
+only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa was more
+easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles northward,
+I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found the river.
+We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch biting into
+the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached the Balonne Major,
+or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from the Minor Balonne,
+both of which we had already crossed, and which ran thus, as from our
+camp the lines of trees along each of the minor channels were distinctly
+visible.
+
+The character of these rivers had been described to me by Commissioner
+Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the drays came in,
+and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind, having been suddenly
+attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged in the survey of our
+route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had somewhat abated, but
+still this complaint, which we had attributed to it, had lately affected
+many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr. Kennedy. Latitude, 28°
+27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 88°; at
+9, 53°; with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of
+the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an
+angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after
+passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded by
+a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and
+partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I
+found this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous
+course, impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got
+through it, only after contending with these impediments for three miles.
+The country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river,
+and I turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward
+two miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any
+river; but, on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was
+declining, and I turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction
+reached an extensive open forest, beyond which I saw at length the river
+line of trees. I continued to ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw
+our cattle grazing, and the tents, without having regained first, as I
+wished, my outward track. On the bank of the Balonne we found an
+apparently new species of ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish
+flowers, and in the scrub I passed through, in my ride, I found a
+CASUARINA, indeterminable in the absence of flowers or fruit. It produces
+a gall as large as a hazel nut. Thermometer at sunrise, 37°; at noon,
+90°; at 4 P.M., 94°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not proceed,
+as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep our
+account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much galled,
+and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not without
+some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching a point
+whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave the
+cattle to refresh in a depôt on this fine river, which afforded an
+excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown
+regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously
+wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or
+Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part of
+the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the
+eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the
+Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of
+reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to
+the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I
+therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add
+in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,
+whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of
+encampment described.
+
+In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a
+broadleaved, white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,
+which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted
+species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New
+World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on EXOCARPUS
+APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and Frazer on
+Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at
+noon, 95°; at 4 P.M., 96°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Height above
+the sea, 497 feet.
+
+[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,
+fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos
+superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]
+
+7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I was
+informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud on
+the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was
+impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from
+having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our
+journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.
+Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest
+land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,
+even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got
+involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of
+E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees
+of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at
+an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the slopes,
+we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent, presenting a
+body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one other river of
+Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.
+
+This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor Balonne,
+came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe were heard
+in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly, having left us
+suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily ordered him away. I
+had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at night on the former
+occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of mischief, and could
+not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We desired no further
+intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with us did not
+understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose through
+that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my journey
+fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of this
+camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even now. I
+had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here, at a
+time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still
+uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled
+globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 P. M. 97°; at 9, 69°;--
+with wet bulb 57°. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28° 23' 59" S.
+(Camp III.)
+
+8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the river
+woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch, at
+first containing much water, and coming from the north, was on our right
+for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks of three
+horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if proceeding
+first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the river became
+dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw about a mile to
+the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of water on a
+level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of emerald
+green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a longer
+journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite water in
+its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy margin we saw
+still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to drink. The
+scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain. The ACACIA
+PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM OBLONGATUM, and others,
+gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance of water about, all hands
+considered this a very fine country. At sunset, thunder-clouds gathered
+in the S. W., and at about 7 P. M. the storm reached our camp,
+accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the S. E. The lightning
+was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily. By 8 P. M. it was
+over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of Regulus, by which
+the latitude was found to be 28° 17' 8" S. (No. IV.) Thermometer at
+sunrise, 61°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P. M. 94°; at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb
+63°.
+
+9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum, obliged me
+to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had already got
+further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river spread into a
+broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers having taken no
+notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where the carts had
+been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry the loads to firm
+ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this swamp for many miles,
+I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed the burning fires of
+natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on trees about. At
+length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the main river, where
+it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and sweeping round
+majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after a long journey.
+The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large fishes in it;
+ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black swans. This
+surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that such an
+enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else in New South
+Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The Anthistiria grew
+abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude, 28° 13' 34" S. and
+marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P. M., 97°; at
+9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,
+fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the
+river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris
+scrubs were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open
+and firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of
+large Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and
+gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a
+soft red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by
+far the best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft
+red sand being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as
+mud. At length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious
+lagoon, extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift
+marks, that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it
+as it trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about
+that part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods.
+That lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water
+could never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon
+dried up, which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant
+in the bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA
+MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 99°; at 4 P. M.,
+97° at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,
+stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi
+angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-
+pubescentitomentosis, bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis
+setaceis, legumine sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but
+flowers much smaller, in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects
+with the short character of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is
+not articulated on the footstalk, and the stipules exist.]
+
+11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right
+hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully
+falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,
+at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.
+This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered
+with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being
+near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true
+aboriginal name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more
+readily adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate
+amongst rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way
+about to my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay
+across my intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon
+the banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,
+having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very
+uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had
+once been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the
+swamp, the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the
+opposite direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently
+dry. On crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware
+that it is usually at acute angles in a river's course that such
+overflowings break out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn
+eastward, and even to the southward of east before I could find the river
+again. At length we came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand,
+where the waters took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents.
+I was now very desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to
+rest and refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This
+place did not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well
+tasted, and the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the
+natives, or by accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of
+the Balonne, and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO
+PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader
+leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of
+ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 102°; at 4
+P. M., 104°; at 9, 69°; with wet bulb, 62°. Average height above the sea,
+of camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.
+
+[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse
+sinuatoserratis integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque
+glaberrimis.]
+
+12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour, and
+soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water and came
+from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that had for
+some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes that this
+river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it
+maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of
+water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the
+course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of
+the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,
+consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have
+been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the
+same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite
+bank, and at once selected the spot for a dépôt camp, which we
+established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down
+the river. It was, in fact, a tête-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage
+which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in
+latitude 28° 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4
+P. M., 101°; at 9, 74°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with
+a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the
+river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my
+hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the
+stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of
+all in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a
+pair of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+47°; at noon, 100°; at 4 P. M., 101°; at 9, 67°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in the
+direction of 331½°, my intended route, and he returned about 10 P. M.,
+having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right when
+about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the whole,
+I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to travel
+north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course of
+this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher
+ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P. M., 103°; at
+9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting
+water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of
+infantry than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded
+chiefly with water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were
+thus prepared to pass several nights without requiring other water than
+that we carried with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the
+scrubs, and reach, and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great
+basin. Our first day's progress, being rather experimental, did not
+extend above ten miles. I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse,
+and exchange him for a better, as our load of water was heavy. The day
+was very sultry. Thermometer 105° Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed
+over ground more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 64°; at 4 P. M., 105°; at 9, 71°;--with wet
+bulb, 67°.
+
+17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being my
+own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got
+forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they
+could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none
+was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,
+and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;
+and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar
+indication of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the
+white-barked gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of
+river trees, we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After
+completing about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses,
+where there was a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from
+our stock. The mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at
+all higher than our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore,
+not improbable that we might meet with some other channel or branch of
+that prolific river. After resting two hours we continued, passing
+through woods partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub.
+Towards the end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good
+grass, and having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of
+the character of the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very
+large kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks
+numerous. We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a
+grassy spot surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA
+of Banks, and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable
+whiteness appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which,
+on very close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On
+the plains the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose
+from its very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 71°; at 9 P. M, 68°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to
+specimens of this brought to England:--
+
+"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell (or
+rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does not allow me
+to say much about the insect by which they are formed. It is an extremely
+beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I have yet seen, and is, I
+have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It is of a very peculiar form,
+resembling a very delicate, broad, and flattened valve of a bi-valve
+shell, such as the genus Iridina, the part where the hinge is being a
+little produced and raised, and forming the cover of the coccus which
+secretes the beautiful material just in the same unexplained way as the
+scale insects form the slender attenuated scales beneath which they are
+born. I could not discover any insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas
+Mitchell's production in a state sufficient to determine what it really
+is, as I only found one or two exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up
+insects. It is extremely brittle, and looks more like dried, white,
+frothed sugar than any thing else."]
+
+18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N. N. E.
+direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed that
+water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the other
+horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I found
+some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and which
+evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were then dry.
+Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall of rain
+water would remain there some time. On riding two miles beyond, in the
+same direction, I found open forest land only. The country was well
+covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We again proceeded
+north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was, however, only soft
+red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses drawing the
+watercart.
+
+On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different kind of
+country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or still more
+loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance, and the
+trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly. Instead of
+grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I
+afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRÀ), and one small, shrubby, brown
+bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike
+leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the
+firstmentioned plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in
+passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some
+birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They
+descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and
+seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp one
+fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my
+whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as
+those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and
+dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,
+especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the
+Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the
+DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the
+sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them
+elsewhere. The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much
+distressed. I continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a
+scrub in a clay hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country
+with more of the soft red sand. The people with the cart could not
+overtake me, and I returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I
+determined to encamp at some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our
+line, in latitude, 27° 43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the
+barometer, we had not ascended higher than our depôt camp on the river,
+at a distance of nearly forty miles from it. I had just quitted my
+horse's back, and had resolved to return, when two horsemen were seen
+approaching along our track. They were two of our party come from the
+depôt to bring me a despatch, which had been forwarded by Commissioner
+Wright, communicating the news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port
+Essington, and enclosing the Gazette with his own account of his journey.
+Thus it became known to us that we could no longer hope to be the first
+to reach the shores of the Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+62°; at 4 P. M., 93°; at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode forward
+along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me, until the
+cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite exhausted by the
+heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 86°; at
+9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having been
+ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depôt, I sent our tired
+animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited quantity
+of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh horses about
+half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of another light
+cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage towards the head
+of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 95; at 4 P. M.,
+93°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 A. M. The morning was cloudy, for
+the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three or four
+days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have explored
+by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great river,
+the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I had
+just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended, had it
+been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground, whatever
+it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 65°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 77°; at 9, 60°;
+--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the
+temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial
+column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated party
+engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of our
+late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the colony
+lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.
+direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as
+he went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,
+during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a new
+creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr. Bentham has
+named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P.
+M., 77°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 56°. Mean elevation of this camp
+above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623 feet.
+
+[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis
+pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis
+elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus
+approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine
+molliter villoso.]
+
+[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis
+subangulatis, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late
+obovatis summisve linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis
+v. oblique mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis
+uninervibus tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris
+solitariis subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus
+truncatis, legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and
+possibly a mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably
+broader, and the inflorescence different.]
+
+
+
+Chapter IV.
+
+ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY--LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS AND
+DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--DISCOVER A RIVER
+JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE THE
+BALONNE UPWARDS.--FINE RIVER SCENERY.--VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO THE
+EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.--TRIBUTARY FROM THE NORTH-WEST--
+AND RICH PLAINS.--TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.--EXCELLENT COUNTRY FOR
+GRAZING PURPOSES.--MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE NORTHWARD.--NATIVES
+AT OUR CAMP.--ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.--MOUNT INVITING.--ASCEND MOUNT RED
+CAP.--RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.--
+THE BOTTLE TREE.--ASCEND MOUNT BINDÀNGO.--DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER
+"AMBY."--DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF A CAMP.--RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-
+WEST.--ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.--A GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND
+FOR THE CARTS.--SMALL RIVER DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF
+WATER.--THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS ON OPEN FLATS.--DISCOVER THE RIVER
+MARAN.--SELECT A POSITION FOR A DEPÔT.--RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE
+NORTHWARD.--RIDE INTO THE WESTERN INTERIOR.--ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.--
+EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--WATER NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.--RETURN TO THE
+CAMP.--ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE EASTWARD.--VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS
+OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.--CAMP VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY
+ABSENCE.--ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.--HIS
+ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."--VARIOUS
+PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--DEPÔT CAMP
+ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.
+
+23RD APRIL.--Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight men,
+two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three light carts
+with provisions for ten weeks--determined, if possible, to penetrate
+northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the division of
+the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view, to trace
+upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to the north-
+westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west, and thus
+acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the watershed
+towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to follow my track
+with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out on Monday, the
+4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks' rest.
+
+The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or
+hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each side.
+I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river.
+Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub;
+but came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque.
+Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm
+clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the
+river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27° 56' 12"
+S. There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long
+islands of sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The
+bed, in most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous
+conglomerate, or clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass
+was excellent and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick
+scrub crowned these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my
+examining the other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the
+ENOCARPUS SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the
+beautiful parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of
+Eucalyptus. Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at 9 P. M., 47°;--with wet
+bulb, 41°. [* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman numerals
+those afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track with the
+main body.]
+
+24TH APRIL.--Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction was
+N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild and very
+fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of water, in
+wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that sometimes
+moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines were wild,
+the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still inclined
+as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted finely with
+erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with perpendicular
+rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown, contrasted
+most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey driftwood, blue
+water, and verdure by its margin; all these again--grass, verdure,
+driftwood, and water--were so opposed to the dark hues of the Casuarinae,
+Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a Gains-borough, might
+there have found an inexhaustible stock of subjects for their pencil. It
+was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.
+
+"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air, And scarce a human image
+plac'd he there."
+
+May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we may
+also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their
+sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be
+brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine
+perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy
+margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by scrub. At
+length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see along
+each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up that
+nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of
+natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was
+grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain."
+This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but
+finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at
+length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I
+could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river;
+marks of high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other.
+It might, and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but
+this seemed too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed
+it, to look for the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain
+bounded by trees that looked like those along the river. No time could be
+spared for further reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for
+the nearest part. My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in
+following the various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen
+miles beyond the point where I met with this river, that I reached the
+bank of the other, at a spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had
+quitted it. This was only accomplished at forty minutes after 4 P. M.,
+when we had travelled twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was
+likely, if followed by Mr. Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay
+and inconvenience, I resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the
+subject, explaining how he could most readily fall into my track by
+crossing the other channel, quitting first the other track, at a spot to
+be marked by Graham, who took the letter. Nevertheless, it had been
+imperative on me to follow it up as I had done; because, whether as a
+separate tributary or an ana-branch only, the right bank was likely to
+suit us best, provided only that water could have been found in its bed.
+Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of Linnaeus, with its spikes
+of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM.
+Lat. 27° 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9 P. M., 59°;--with
+wet bulb, 56°.
+
+25TH APRIL.--
+
+"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers, And heavily in clouds brings
+on the day."
+
+A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a
+contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy, and
+Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of the
+other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my
+track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in
+an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and
+buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks on
+trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to
+examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the
+day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and,
+in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible
+difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+65°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P. M., 66°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 63°. Mean
+height above the sea, 586 feet.
+
+26TH APRIL.--Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depôt camp at 1 P.
+M. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind from the
+west arose about 3 P. M. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 78°; at 4
+P. M., 78°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+27TH APRIL.--The party set off early. We found that a river from the
+north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from
+the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I
+determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and
+water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of the
+first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after
+following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode
+northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten
+minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I
+could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27° 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+37°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P. M., 72°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+28TH APRIL.--Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river bed
+like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here broke
+through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S. W.,
+it seemed probable that the general course from above might be parallel
+to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches large,
+full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant
+grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered with
+the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a delicate
+grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also here
+observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W., and
+whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel
+northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again,
+cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its
+course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have
+rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during
+the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had
+been in England during the same month. Latitude 27° 32' 37" S. The
+direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long
+sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered
+available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface of
+the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river,
+attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor
+features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they
+had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at
+4 P. M., 69°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+29TH APRIL.--The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into
+gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent me
+from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or
+pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy
+margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all
+seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I
+was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress
+along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I
+could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in
+a gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge
+like that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday,
+doubtless the product of the late rain, and probably from these clay
+gullies. After a circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow
+over-looking much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies,
+but could easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we
+encamped as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27°
+28' 27". One of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree,
+discovered vast plains in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river
+line pursuing a northerly course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung
+over what he supposed to be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4
+P. M., 63°; at 9, 47°; with wet bulb, 44°.
+
+30TH APRIL.--Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came upon
+open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the rugged
+gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north, with
+sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all
+fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the
+river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a
+high scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large
+lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see.
+It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native
+huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27° 20'
+S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our
+youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 P. M.,
+65°; at 9, 43°.
+
+1ST MAY.--On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the river,
+we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground broken
+into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin of
+this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage
+elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it,
+we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and
+could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards
+northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains,
+bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw
+still the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the
+cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us
+improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward,
+with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W.
+From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains
+extending before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low
+rise to the N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each
+containing deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the
+river; we encamped near it, in latitude 27° 15' 4" S. As we approached
+this spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then running off--
+Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of his own. I
+endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they made off,
+setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of these parts
+might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they would at length
+come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at 4 P. M., 67°; at 9, P. M.,
+48°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+2D MAY.--There was a decided difference between the river we were now
+upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by
+which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small
+tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the
+westward, while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst
+plains, reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was
+the principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather
+difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses
+lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the
+water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable
+breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the woods
+back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's bed,
+but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we could
+have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river, passing close
+to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next change of the
+river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the receding bergs
+guided me, even when only seen at a considerable distance, in shaping my
+course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I travelled far along a
+grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing water like chrystal,
+and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western shore consisted of
+shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated on its eastern
+extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N. W., we at
+length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous
+channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more
+like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus
+waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of
+the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just
+beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were
+erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open
+iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather
+peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also
+undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we
+were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77°, also a hill to
+the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333°), he
+saw also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at 4 P. M., 62°;
+at 9 P. M 57°; mean height above the sea, 694 feet.
+
+3RD MAY.--Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and we
+perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the morning.
+Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party bearing a green
+branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to our tents.
+One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite absorbed in
+observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently overcome all
+their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and without any
+kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With steady fixed
+looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances, what passed
+in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages. On the
+contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look of good
+sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence, could we
+but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor did they show
+any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the smallest of which
+might have been of use to them. There must be an original vein of mind in
+these aboriginal men of the land. O that philosophy or philanthropy could
+but find it out and work it! Yuranigh plied them with all my questions,
+but to little purpose; for although he could understand their language,
+he complained that they did not answer him in it, but repeated, like
+parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same manner, they followed me
+with a very exact repetition of English words. He, however, gathered from
+them that the lake was called "Turànimga," this river "Cogoon," a hill to
+the eastward "Toolumbà," etc. They had never before seen white men, and
+behaved as properly as it was possible for men in their situation to do.
+At length we set out on our journey, and in mounting my horse, which
+seemed very much to astonish them, I made signs that we were going to the
+mountains.
+
+Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The deep
+ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was small, in
+comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed to say we
+had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers." Malga
+scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of these
+forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that impervious
+sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making straighter
+cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was, however, now
+rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a tributary to
+the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us, pursued a
+tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29° and 27°, coming
+round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last three days we
+had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of north-west; in
+which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect that we should
+soon find mountains.
+
+As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded, with
+Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw through
+the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I
+perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the
+south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the
+northeast, like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight
+to me then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west,
+the object of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had
+before seen these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still
+undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this
+hill Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from
+its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was
+felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat.
+27° 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9 P. M.,
+45°;--with wet bulb, 43°.
+
+4TH MAY.--An Australian morning is always charming,--amid these scenes of
+primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or GYMNORHINA, the
+organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller bird, whose notes,
+resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the only sounds that
+met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such sounds in other
+climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning in this. "The
+rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the perfume of the
+shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and the tints and
+tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The light red tints
+of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the white stems of
+the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early morning, still
+slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in the most
+pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally fine, from
+the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate willow-
+like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees, the
+mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there is
+a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most
+brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter
+morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are
+equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the
+savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from
+thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence.
+
+Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had seen
+whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found myself
+on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest, so that
+I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges clothed with
+dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and descended towards a
+fine open country, on which pigeons were numerous, and traces of natives.
+It was also sloping to the northward, and I had no doubt that we had
+passed into a valley which I had observed yesterday from Mount First
+View, and had supposed it contained a larger river. In the open ground, I
+found a small rocky knoll which I named Mount Minute. From its summit, I
+recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing 128° 30'. We next passed through
+some scrub, and came to a hollow full of Acacia pendula. Following this
+down we arrived at a chain of ponds, and these led to an open grassy
+valley, in which we found our old friend, the river, still pursuing,
+steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along the bank, for a mile or
+two, we found that these now consisted of fine open forest flats; and at
+length encamped on the margin, after a journey of about twelve miles.
+Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite bank, first standing in mute
+astonishment, then running away. I held up a green bough, but they seemed
+very wild; and, although occasionally seen during the afternoon, none of
+them would approach us. We found on the banks of this river, a purple-
+flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*] Lat. 26° 57' 39" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 P. M., 70°; at 9, 37°;--with wet bulb,
+34°.
+
+[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis
+alternis oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo
+longioribus, floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.]
+
+5TH MAY.--The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession,
+colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19° E., yet
+the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open air,
+seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere, extreme
+cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So, also, in the
+opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so accustomed to a
+higher temperature than 100° F., that any degree under that felt
+refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the little river was
+still very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks at the westerly
+bends; from which side it was also joined by a small tributary, with
+ponds and hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of the POLYGONUM
+ACRE. Still, however, the main channel could be distinguished from these,
+and the open forest flats along its banks became more and more extensive
+and open as we ascended this channel,--leading so directly where we
+wished to go.
+
+Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub,
+but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with
+callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through.
+I rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from
+Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be
+removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond,
+there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of
+felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular
+polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and
+W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26° 54' 16" S. It was only
+during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any
+indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than
+that of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the
+difference was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or
+seven millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the
+sea being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 P. M., 67°.
+
+6TH MAY.--The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the slopes less
+abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a mixture of sand, at
+a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it occupied a section of
+considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards between bank and bank.
+On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest land, Youranigh drew my
+attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of trees, which he showed me
+had been deposited there by floods. As they were of a growth and size
+quite disproportioned to other trees there, I was convinced that they
+were the debris of floods; and, consequently, that a vast body of water
+sometimes came down this channel. This native was taciturn and observant
+of such natural circumstances, to a degree that made his opinion of value
+in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which of two channels, that
+might come both in our way, might be the main one; thus my last resource,
+when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el parecer," as they say in Spain,
+of this aboriginal, and he was seldom wrong. At length, the cheering
+expanse of an open country appeared before us, and a finely shaped hill,
+half-covered only, with bushes. On reaching an elevated clear part, I saw
+extensive downs before me. The river turned amongst woods to the
+eastward, and I continued on our route to the north, sure of meeting with
+it again, as some fine forest ridges hemmed in the valley to the
+eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned (which I named Mount
+Inviting), there was a curious red cone some miles to the westward,
+crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to plant my theodolite.
+After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of Acacia pendula
+which gradually changed to an open forest, within which I met with a
+chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26° 46' S. I immediately set out,
+with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red Cap, distant from our
+camp about six miles. This little red cone had a very singular
+appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark tinted scrub of
+flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of which the light
+and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy plain. I found the
+red rock to be the common one of the country, in a state of
+decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal, whose tracks
+had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling us to lead our
+horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an extensive view of
+the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood to the verge of
+the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of picturesque form,
+and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the direction whence we had
+come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more continuous ridges; and,
+towards the extremity of them, I could just recognise Mount First View,
+this being one of the distant cones I had seen from it. I took as many
+angles as the descending sun permitted, and then retraced our horses'
+tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at 9 P. M., 47°. Height
+above the sea, 747 feet.
+
+7TH MAY.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open
+forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula,
+in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward, now
+anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we
+found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds
+skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my
+ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge.
+From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little
+wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the
+centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good
+pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to
+follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from the
+west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open downs,
+and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in neither of
+which could we find any water, and had consequently to return to the last
+of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country towards
+the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26° 42' 27" S., thankful that we
+had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and to discover so
+fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 30°.
+
+8TH MAY.--This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21° in my tent,
+a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen indicated from
+my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which was not frozen,
+neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in splendour; pigeons
+cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods. The business of the
+day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine open country to the
+westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for a higher branch of
+the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region could not be
+deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen of the range
+to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E. in about two
+hours we came upon the identical river we had so long followed up. It was
+accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had its rounded bergs;
+reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left bank. Crossing it I
+rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs, in hopes to obtain
+a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found that to be
+impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an elevated
+north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it beheld the finest
+country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A champaign region, spotted
+with wood, stretching as far as human vision, or even the telescope,
+could reach. It was intersected by river lines from the north,
+distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass arose in the
+midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W. and N. E.
+direction, as to deserve the name of a range.
+
+A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S.
+E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that
+variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks
+of a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole
+country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton
+Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an
+elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend
+the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to near
+the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by
+rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear
+leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I
+was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater, although
+the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes there were
+different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me, seemed
+chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by no
+means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in
+Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around
+them. Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The
+trunk bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the
+diameter at the ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches
+above. These were small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole
+tree looked very odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that
+I was convinced this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A
+still more remarkable specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in
+the apex of a basaltic peak, in the kind of gap of the range through
+which we passed on the 15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying
+drawing.]
+
+These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like
+hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*]
+Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the
+rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly
+covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even
+after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau,
+so thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward
+towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down than
+that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the Cogoon, I
+passed between the two summits, and found a good open passage to the
+westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon,
+70°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 30°. Height above the sea 1043 feet.
+
+[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of
+Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with
+respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it
+more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These
+are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate,
+mucronate, smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and
+lined with a thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also
+closely covered with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold
+the seeds together firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the
+upper half of the seed, whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining,
+smooth, and marked with a brown nipple, the remains of the foramen.
+Within the primine lies the bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite
+loose, and seems as if it were independent of the primine. Eventually the
+end of the thin brittle primine breaks like an eggshell and the secundine
+falls out. The seeds themselves, remaining attached to each other and to
+the follicle, resemble six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half
+a dozen brown eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young
+have escaped through the point.
+
+Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir Henry T. De la Beche,
+as president of a Society which has greatly encouraged him in his
+Australian researches; and in honour of a science which has occasionally
+thrown some light on his dark and difficult path. It may be
+scientifically described as follows:--
+
+DELABECHEA.
+
+CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ...
+STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longè stipitati,
+intus stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili
+cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita,
+inter se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINÂ laxâ, tenui, fragili,
+apice foramine incrassato notatâ, SECUNDINÂ crustaceâ, demum liberâ
+chalazâ magnâ circulari notatâ. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria.
+
+DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS.
+
+ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM album, laxum,
+mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate) maximis faciem
+internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis medullaribus tenuibus
+equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata, integerrima, in
+petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia, subtus pallida et
+quasi vernice quâdam cinereâ obducta. INFLORESCENTIA axillaris,
+trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque
+tomentosus.
+
+The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is soft, and
+brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very large
+tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half across;
+they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When boiling water is
+poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly, resembling tragacanth,
+is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass; iodine stains it brown, but
+not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No doubt the nutritious quality
+of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is apparently of the same
+nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree of Sierra Leone
+(STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA).
+
+It is not a little remarkable that the barrel-like form of the trunk
+should be almost exactly paralleled by another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA
+VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It
+seems, however, that a tendency to a short lumpish mode of growth is
+common among the order, as is indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which
+is almost as broad as it is long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-
+Cottons of tropical America.--J. L.]
+
+9TH MAY.--The thermometer stood at 19° in my tent this morning, yet no
+ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that branch
+of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track for Mr.
+Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about two miles
+to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a trench cut
+across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a letter for
+Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour which might
+have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our track from the
+south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the direction of
+the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a due north
+line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for our river,
+as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and the woods
+quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The watercourse,
+soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and these at last
+were found to contain no water, when we had completed our day's journey.
+Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still distinguish my
+rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the general direction
+of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W. We were still much
+to the southward of the line so observed, apprehending, as I did think
+then, that some tempting plains might take us too far along some western
+tributary. Riding in search of water, I perceived a column of smoke to
+the northward; and, taking the party in that direction, we found, in the
+first valley we fell in with, a chain of ponds, and in one of these water
+enough for our use, whereupon I gladly encamped. This day we discovered a
+new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark in small angular pieces.[*] Latitude,
+26° 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4 P. M., 74°; at sunset, 63°. Height above
+the sea, 1299 feet.
+
+[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis
+breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis
+reticulatovenosis, nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris
+axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.]
+
+10TH MAY.--Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land. The
+sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the open
+country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the scenery,
+and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a level
+woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country from
+any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is every
+thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water, when in
+the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went forward this
+morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of our friendly
+river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some of its highest
+sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain before us,
+over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a dry bushy
+hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have encamped, I
+perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of it, which
+was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more readily I
+got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down. This,
+opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The
+welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the water-
+course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains, gracefully
+fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I crossed a bare
+grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw luxuriant white
+trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same colour (PSITTACUS
+GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water, beside which we
+encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a beautiful Loranthus,
+which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly discovered by the
+indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now described by Sir William
+Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 38°;--
+with wet bulb, 34°.
+
+[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis
+oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis
+tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis
+axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis
+nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis
+linearibus.--Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were
+subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.]
+
+11TH MAY.--I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with axes, and
+one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with thick scrub
+interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way almost any where.
+I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on throwing down a few
+of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view over the country to the
+northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain. Beyond these, valleys,
+also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one side to the S. E., on
+another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a rather elevated
+tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain with a range just
+dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley descending towards the N.
+W., seemed to me to be the head of a river likely to pass through a
+remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the view did not extend. To
+the westward a woody, and rather level country appeared, from which I
+thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs between them, descending
+towards the N. W. river.
+
+Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my
+theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise,
+that the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I
+stood, and that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still,
+the only greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due
+north. Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass
+through? Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern
+and southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident
+from columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral
+ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward. That
+was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found an
+interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I
+resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the
+remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them much
+resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and
+returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found
+eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my
+absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a tomahawk
+to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little could be
+understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his. We did,
+however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned from, was
+"Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyègo; and the
+ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped, "Tagàndo;" all very
+good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at once in my notes and
+map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre, and had a few feathers
+of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their foreheads and beards.
+These simple decorations gave them a splendid holiday appearance, as
+savages. The trio who had visited us some days before, were all
+thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and their white teeth,
+constantly visible, shone whiter than even the cockatoo's feathers on
+their brows and chins. Contrasted with our woollen-jacketted, straw-
+hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care, it seemed as if nature
+was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of the sons of art. Sun
+never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than these children of nature
+appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine powerful fellow, whose voice
+sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if his very whisper might be heard
+half a mile off. The old man remained by our fire all night; the others
+who, as I understood, were all his sons, had departed about 11 P. M.,
+having left their gins in the vicinity. Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at
+noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 59°; at 9, 35°.
+
+12TH MAY.--I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river
+flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount
+Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found
+the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a
+river, with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short
+way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from
+one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from
+which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This water
+was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to which
+I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to
+expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at
+noon, 81°; at 4 P. M., 59°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height above
+the sea, 1168 feet.
+
+13TH MAY.--I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party
+crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet
+above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy
+downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two knolls
+projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode to
+one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was the
+first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from
+their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyègo, which I had not leisure to examine then, also
+consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one
+hundred yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with
+trees wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely,
+CALLITRIS PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next
+descended to a separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the
+north-west. Instead of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been
+doing, and finding them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main
+channel, we were now to follow one downwards, with the prospect of
+finding it to increase as we proceeded. The relief from the constant
+apprehension of not falling in with water was great, as each day's
+journey was likely to show additional tributaries to our new found river,
+and, of course, to augment the supply. The old native at Tagàndo, had
+pointed much to the north-west, frequently repeating the word "MARAN;"
+whether that was, or what was, the name of this river, remained to be
+ascertained. A sweet breeze from the N. W. met us as we descended the
+slopes, and thus it was that white men first passed in that direction,
+"AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA." Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon,
+75°; at 4 P. M., 64°; at 9, 43°. Height of camp above the sea, 1226 feet.
+
+14TH MAY.--The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I
+crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the
+country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the
+time I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap.
+We passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we
+had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before
+me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in
+that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass,
+and wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me,
+however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had
+thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been
+called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in
+advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went
+forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We
+found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which
+was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all
+to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to
+my native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the
+tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He
+handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to examine
+my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that convinced
+him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the river was
+called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then, for the
+first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that this
+might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu as
+civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I
+perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing
+more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild
+tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the
+tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a thought
+which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart upon our
+goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to desist from
+his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way, contrive to cheek
+the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a loud whisper
+of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was no music in
+this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous sandstone,
+whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the eastward. A
+gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which was steep
+towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone) afforded me a
+view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about it. I
+perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the country
+was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed marked out
+by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and watercourses
+fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still the
+country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills,
+clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and
+dells between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot
+of the finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of
+route, to the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we
+wanted water, but on following a little channel about a mile downwards,
+we found in it a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further
+down this channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of
+my newly discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I
+was almost convinced that it would have brought me into this very
+country, had I come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26° 17' 8" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 35°; at 4 P. M., 80°; at 7 P. M., 71°; at 9,
+48°. Height above the sea, 1150 feet.
+
+15TH MAY.--My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning, to
+natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp. Some
+time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped, with
+head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside my
+after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big
+savage of yesterday.
+
+Hamlet might here have exclaimed--
+
+"What a piece of work is man! ... ..... how infinite in faculties! In
+form and action how like a QUADRUPED! In apprehension, how like a DEVIL!"
+
+There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be
+the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This
+savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were
+concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had
+been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably,
+drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in
+the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet
+whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted,
+expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud
+JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp.
+My horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different
+direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know
+either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity
+of frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other
+way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree,
+with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and Yuranigh,
+both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill, whence I found
+that a great number had just retired, leaving even their opossums still
+roasting on the fire;--they having, in a very brief interval, by rapid
+strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard their shouts
+in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate retreat--
+aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing behind
+some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with the
+business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a
+low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of black
+ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so that it
+might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it on the
+south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to give
+birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we were
+encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the Bottle tree,
+represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this range, and
+in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the country
+westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a
+watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and dry
+ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the
+commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this
+downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew
+our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a
+pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and
+the ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently
+in the same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to
+bring forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the
+country beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and
+the country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+38°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P. M., 82°; at 9, 43°.
+
+[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature
+behind a tree.]
+
+16TH MAY.--We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the
+carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively
+on the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque,
+while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more
+importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along the
+creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find water
+at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26° 15' 24"
+S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 49°. Height above
+the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;--of this camp, 1256 feet.
+
+17TH MAY.--Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I could
+move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone
+ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it
+would), to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping
+valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were
+clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and
+found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height
+afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to be
+chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon,
+and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the
+course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat.
+I descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could
+find no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine
+grassy flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising
+ground, on the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the
+inhabitants of the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek
+turning towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious
+open flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our
+further progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I
+perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards
+it, observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching
+a large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below
+these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the
+blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond
+that could not have lasted long,--here I saw at once secure, a firm
+footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it
+went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully
+as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N.
+to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far
+on our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with
+other streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course
+downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just deserted,
+the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left
+suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp
+under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its
+final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research. I
+returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a
+permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 78°; at
+4 P. M. 75°; at 9, 49°.
+
+18TH MAY.--Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to trace,
+with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays
+coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the
+country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well
+covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to
+the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap
+behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we had
+descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we had
+just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I
+sought a good position for a depôt camp on the newly-discovered river,
+and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W.,
+overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and
+having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and
+firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke
+and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as
+much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being
+removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the kangaroos
+come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this camp, 26°
+12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at 4 P. M., 78°; at 9, 57°.
+
+19TH MAY.--I could now venture to halt a day without any apprehensions
+about leaving sufficient water for the party who were following us; and I
+had recently obtained many angles I wished to put together, in order to
+learn the character of the country, which required much study. That I
+should have overlooked an extensive country, without perceiving any
+indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at my feet, seemed
+a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of its ultimate
+course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the chief
+elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount Red
+Cap, Bindango, and Bindyègo, to the high ranges nearer the coast. That
+the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby), and
+flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of basaltic
+rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango and the
+northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side, and that
+the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered. Where was
+the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters were full of
+fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at
+noon, 73°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 65°.
+
+20TH MAY.--The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded us
+some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration
+during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a sudden
+change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during the
+journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48°. F. Yuranigh contrived to
+catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of the rivers
+in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river could belong
+to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 48°;
+at 4 P. M., 45°; at 9, 45°.
+
+21ST MAY.--The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me to
+ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west,
+in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the
+river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests,
+and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too
+loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three
+channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in
+ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass
+(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees
+being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind,
+but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly
+on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as
+they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally
+strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions,
+such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this
+summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the
+highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80
+miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line
+of smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and others
+to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon
+presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded
+from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level
+horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap
+was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye
+ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending
+eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote distance;
+in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives. I
+returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had
+observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore,
+still look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that,
+for the heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the
+river, resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west
+of it. They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an
+extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken
+into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at
+noon, 54°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 30°.
+
+22D MAY.--This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20°; and in
+the open air, at 12°. The river was frozen, and the grass was white with
+hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before us, I
+resolved to form a depôt with our drays and heavy equipment here, and to
+await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The spot
+was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr. Kennedy
+with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively the
+character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather apprehensive
+that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this point; and I
+was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for continuing
+the journey, without dragging them any further through the heavy sand. It
+was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be obliged to
+remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a journey, when
+horses and light carts might have enabled me to have pursued it to a
+conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54°; at 4 P. M.,
+55°; at 9, 27°.
+
+23D MAY.--The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and to
+receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of
+ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great
+height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further
+course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp; and, in
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With this
+view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it
+from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I
+ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without
+difficulty, or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the
+western side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent
+gradual, through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the
+Yarra gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the
+ACACIA CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA
+MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark, and
+stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh; who
+remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney. But
+deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the
+direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length,
+we approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but
+quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I
+turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it
+pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going
+far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this
+interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the
+furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward,
+extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river
+would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance
+from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of
+their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I
+passed this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing
+our guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that
+they had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the
+river bank. These people had no clothing,--the mercury stood at 19° and
+20° F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely enough
+to have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns. Yet, under
+such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to them,
+these human beings were so contented and happy, that the overflowings of
+their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human nature in a wild
+state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on the contrary, I
+was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that, much as I wished
+to learn the original name of this interior river, and something about
+its course, I forbade any of the party from taking any notice of these,
+its original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the natives, had also
+taught me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the camel. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 52°; at 4 P. M., 56°; at 9, 32°.
+
+24TH MAY.--I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about two
+miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already
+mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great
+distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last
+evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly waving
+my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and several
+others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a similar
+manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man on
+horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the summit, grew
+the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood, that I was
+obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree on the
+summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of platform on
+the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there appeared some
+open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its apparent
+course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P. M., 67°; and
+at 9, 30°.
+
+25TH MAY.--Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if
+possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some knowledge of
+the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my work was a
+conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the projecting
+extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range), and that its
+basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the sandstone cliffs on
+this side. But the course downwards still remained a question, which
+diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper course to come
+from where it was my wish to go. I resolved, nevertheless, while thus
+awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my ride of the 23RD MAY, and
+ascertain whether it could turn westward under the southern cliffs, the
+only direction in which it was likely to be available to us, downwards,
+at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M. 68°;
+and at 9, 38°.
+
+26TH MAY.--Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I retraced my
+former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the dry river bed,
+where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone gullies, where
+one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to pursue; and
+this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open forest of
+iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of the same
+felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan basin; the
+soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard
+leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and,
+further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue
+distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually
+accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search
+of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on
+a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA
+PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best
+kinds of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good
+pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile
+beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as we
+could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to find
+the river, and the rocky country over which we had come. Westward, the
+downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated conical hills,--
+the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing westward like a
+limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that barrier the
+river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the river, I
+found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five miles
+further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs, but I
+saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally amid the
+long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of native
+inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we hastened
+back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which happened to
+be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 72°; at 4 P.M.,
+71°; at 9, 44°.
+
+27TH MAY.--We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I had
+seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak appeared
+to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W., and in that
+expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately recognised two of
+my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo miles
+respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous range on
+the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined to be
+only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only
+westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a
+long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as
+accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in
+sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and
+although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at
+the far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more
+probable, from the general slope of the country, that it was only another
+tributary coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who
+alone stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate
+of the rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not
+to be found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me
+know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it
+been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then that
+it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked
+much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the
+twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land
+around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of
+the hills--half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and
+vales--or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least there
+seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer of
+nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its
+sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from
+that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in
+that direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill
+overlooking that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable
+geological friend. We reached the dépot camp in the evening, and found
+all well, only that a very tall and powerful native had been
+reconnoitring our position during the day, from various trees commanding
+a view of it; probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always
+happened to be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party
+was absent, as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon,
+79°; at 4 P.M., 68°; at 9, 59°; with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+[* Probably the Nive. See INFRA.]
+
+28TH AND 29TH MAY.--My ride westward had enabled me to intersect more
+points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate
+country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying
+down points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I
+gain a satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however,
+I was convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depôt
+camp, was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey.
+The arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important
+desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and
+continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil
+beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy
+drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly
+time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and other
+obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my reconnoissance
+northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen miles, and bearing
+27½° E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 85°;
+at 4 P.M., 79°: at 9, 65°.
+
+30TH MAY.--I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of
+excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit
+consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was
+much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of those
+remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had since seen
+them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'-back
+crest of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other heights.
+The girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and only
+sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same kind, a
+very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality, seems
+to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the kangaroo is
+remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I am sure,
+remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood being so
+light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or tomahawk,
+might live by the side of one without other food or water; as if nature
+in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary places,
+had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must contain a
+great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to contain as
+much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great number of
+seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds; and, from
+the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a bird on a
+rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of this tree
+may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds being the
+favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed probably
+requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may
+grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and
+satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to the
+southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount Lonsdale):
+the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in the S. W.;
+and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward, beyond
+which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were just
+visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's
+course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing, and
+the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such
+occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from the
+N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or
+towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected
+various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus
+connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango, Mount
+Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some almost
+clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and seemed to be
+also connected with those stretching towards Bindango, and separating the
+basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country. A hill similar to
+that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the interior side of
+it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The valley at the
+base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA; and there
+was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped not long
+before, but in which no water then remained.
+
+[* A new genus, since named DELABECHEA.]
+
+On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left
+it in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing,
+each, several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by
+two females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under
+arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to
+the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures
+motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before
+the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal
+speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses.
+Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they
+advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at a
+distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned
+round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that
+vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old
+soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first
+sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon
+after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to
+approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest
+following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite
+with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he
+continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities,
+and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also,
+by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial
+description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the
+white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a
+spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the
+one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the
+other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed
+more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above, the
+other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more
+remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave
+strict orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be
+allowed to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the
+natives; that no ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there.
+Nothing could be more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor
+more courageous than his appearance before our more numerous party, with
+his spears and open defiance; and I was determined to take every
+precaution to avoid a collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during
+our probably long residence here, our people from doing them any harm.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at noon, 60°; at 4 P.M., 63°; at 9, 31°.
+
+1ST JUNE.--The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded from
+the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach of
+the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line;
+and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health.
+The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again
+proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depôt here.
+Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him, for
+twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from the
+N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of
+Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their
+attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is
+from his own notes:--"At 1 P.M., an old native, accompanied by five
+younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and when
+within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably their
+chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest.
+Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received here,
+that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve that
+good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance, according
+to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green bough, and
+endeavoured by signs to make them leave:--finding that of no avail, I
+presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of bread.
+After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand, and
+taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence they
+had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid them
+farewell. As the others still remained in STATU QUO, I went through the
+same ceremony with them until they were all on their path homewards.
+Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I flattered myself that
+I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that we did not wish them
+beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at 4 P.M. a large number
+of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and children, came boldly up
+and encamped within a few yards of the tents, and two hundred more were
+reported to me by Mortimer as being at a short distance in their rear. I
+gave strict orders that no man should go near them, and I mustered the
+party myself at 8 P.M. Shortly afterwards, three or four natives came
+down to our fires, and on the men saying that they would not be made to
+leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and shewed them their own
+camp. One tall young native in particular, wearing an opossum cloak,
+exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I continued to watch their
+movements until half-past eleven, P.M. up to which time they were talking
+very earnestly, continually repeating the words "white fellow." I had not
+retired to my tent five minutes when I heard Baldock (one of the two men
+on watch) several times desire the natives to go back, who, as it
+appeared, would insist on coming forward to our fires. Serjeant Niblet
+then called me, saying he thought "all was not right," that the natives
+refused to keep away, and that he had seen the fire sticks of others
+approaching from several directions. On turning out, I found them making
+a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of our tents, and the
+grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their mischievous work. I
+called to them in the language of some of the aborigines, to go away
+quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but seeing that they still
+drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger of the camp, I
+desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their arms, to
+charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received orders. We
+succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm, one or two
+shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I had
+given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind them,
+all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them that we
+had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the cattle
+brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning watch, and
+no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of the treacherous
+nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic of the
+aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct of our
+neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was likely
+to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit that
+position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr. Kennedy
+to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could not keep
+pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so numbered, the others
+marked being those where his party had passed the night. This depôt camp
+was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such others of mine as have been
+marked between this and VIII., shall be added to this journal, and the
+whole marked on the map. A new species of CALLITRIS appeared among the
+trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the large leaved variety of ACACIA
+DECORA, further removed than usual from the common form, and approaching,
+in some respects, to A. RUBIDA. Among the bushes was the beautiful little
+A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its little heath-like leaves, and among the
+grasses was remarked an abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with
+extremely minute flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at noon, 64°;
+at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9, 30°.
+
+[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligulâ nulla nisi
+squamulâ quâdam, paniculâ effusâ ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque
+scabriusculis, paleis truncatis alterâ 3-nervi alterâ binervi.]
+
+2D JUNE.--Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over two of
+the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of the
+journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration of
+flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of
+mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I
+now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring
+carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd,
+formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to this
+point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner Mitchell,
+accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such passages as the
+following:--"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir Thomas Mitchell
+now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We understand the intrepid
+Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition to the Gulf, keeping
+to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not very encouraging to
+us, certainly; but we work for the future. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°;
+at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9, 30°.
+
+3D JUNE.--This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river,
+which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus
+tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It
+is therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr.
+Wm. M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the
+Barwan. The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed
+to be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was
+thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily
+watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle
+at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate
+protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very
+particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be
+allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use them
+very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible,
+respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+16°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 66°; at 9, 34°.
+
+
+
+Chapter V.
+
+CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE
+FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR
+BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE TRIBE.--
+HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER FROM THE
+WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE N.W.--DETERMINE TO
+FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS
+THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN
+AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH SCRUBS, AND OVER
+SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL
+DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--
+ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE RIVER WARREGO
+DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT.--MOUNT
+FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE NOGOA.--
+COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF SCRUB,
+IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN DOWNS.--
+BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT MUDGE.--
+LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.
+
+4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr. Kennedy adieu,
+for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my party and light
+carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left this zealous
+assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in departing on a
+hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the population
+might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left, predominated
+with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and repassing
+through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a length
+of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to be
+assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning and
+treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we parted
+in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a hope, I
+must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of pleasure,
+looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to encounter,
+and considering the state of my own health.
+
+The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and
+delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;
+therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day,
+and go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter
+journey. This was only of six miles from the depôt camp. Amongst the
+waterworn pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of
+coal and the rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its
+concomitant strata. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at 9 P.M., 40°.
+
+5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to the
+river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and
+convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I accordingly
+sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr. Kennedy, and
+with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring forward one of
+the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry channels of
+tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight, like the
+main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable point to
+encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there gullies
+rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the
+intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to
+contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to
+the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was very
+open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of water,
+forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from north to
+south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked XXXI.,
+last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24°; at 4 P.M., 70°; at 9,
+43°.
+
+6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,
+confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of
+course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the
+time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had
+now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical
+work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have
+had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men
+were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel
+was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26° 6' 25" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 30°; at noon, 75°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 50°.
+
+7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as
+we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with water-
+courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious impediment. At
+length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range, and a long ridge
+appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely, following up the smooth
+clay floor of a water-course, I found myself gradually entangled in a bad
+scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After cutting our way through it, for a
+mile and a half, I sought on the other side for any hollow leading off
+water, and found one which brought us into an open forest flat with a
+fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula appeared on its skirts; and, at
+length, abundance of water, also, in the ponds. The grass was so
+luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped beside it, without seeking
+the river, to which these ponds seemed adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+36°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 70° (XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet.
+
+8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was very
+fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating country
+intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics. At
+length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the west.
+Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main
+channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I
+was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although
+its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round even
+from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it, obliged me
+to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid them. We
+thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably level,
+and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed a
+water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,
+where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole
+nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I
+approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle
+from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on
+this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 36°; at 4 P. M., 85°; at 9, 70°. (XXXIII.)
+
+9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I considered
+that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet weather;
+and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in which I
+wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to explore the
+country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest. Little
+rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of hay,
+but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I found
+a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful
+clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few bushes,
+by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and endeavoured to
+talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh, who was with
+me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his language, and in
+vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this unintelligible parley at
+some distance, (for they would not come close up,) we rode on. We came at
+length on a sandy country with much Callitris, but the whole surface was
+undulating, and we crossed several chains of deep ponds, all falling to
+our right, or eastward; some containing water. At length, I perceived on
+the right, a deeper valley, and found in it a little river with a rocky
+bed, and coming from the N. N. W. At two miles further, along my N. W.
+course, I found it crossed it, coming from W. S. W., and here I turned,
+well pleased to find an abundant supply of water, and a good country in
+the best direction for our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on
+rock, and the water was plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the
+evening, after sunset we were called to by a numerous tribe of natives,
+assembled on the opposite steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we
+had encamped. By the particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had
+seen in the morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was
+evidently their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil
+in the bud, and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in
+line before the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced
+steadily up the opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud
+jeering noise. They set up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced
+to the brow of the cliff, as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently
+ascended, they fell off, and, by the time we gained the height, they had
+retired to a considerable distance, still shouting vociferously. Two,
+however, were seen drawing round our left flank, in a little gully,
+followed by a female carrying spears. I discharged my rifle over their
+heads, upon which they hastened to their fellows. On firing another shot
+over the dark noisy mass before us, they became suddenly quite silent,
+probably persuaded that we were really in earnest. We marched through
+their camp, made a feint, by descending into a gully, of coming upon them
+unawares, and continued there, until silence and darkness secured our
+peaceful occupation of the ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and
+noise, which might have been kept up until morning, and until they had
+worked themselves into that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think
+they have courage to fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up,
+they were sure to have followed us, and gathered a savage population in
+our rear. Lat., 25° 54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at 4 P. M.,
+70; at 9, 50°. (XXXIII.)
+
+10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession Creek, for
+so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until we filled a
+hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of yesterday. Thus we
+reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding much heavy sand in
+the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest point I had previously
+visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 39°. Height
+above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)
+
+11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were obliged to
+turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction whence the river
+came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of only 3½ miles,
+and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I thus came upon the
+rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording an easy means of
+crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only passable place I
+had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere. The strata at
+this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced me to travel
+westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner, a synclinal
+line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We passed
+through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable
+elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained
+grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds
+falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water, whereupon I
+returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9 P.M., 38°.
+Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)
+
+12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with
+ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a
+yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of
+waterworn pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a
+silicious petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse
+track of yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which
+grew brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we
+came upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew
+the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10
+feet. I found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was
+here 1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further
+on were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became
+overcast with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight
+showers fell. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 74°; at 4P.M., 73°;
+at 9, 60°. The wind and clouds came from the west.
+
+13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the northward;
+nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again lose westing,
+until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W. The morning
+was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to gall the
+necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that
+direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow, rosewood,
+and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and continuous. I
+fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course there was
+from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more sandy,
+although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the
+northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it
+ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had
+almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then
+burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I
+therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make
+much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at noon, 57°; at 4 P.M.,
+54°; at 9, 48°.
+
+[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles
+further would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the
+head of the river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]
+
+14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a
+change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were
+filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and
+took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered
+rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began
+to think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following
+down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25° 47'
+28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 55°; at 4 P.M., 57°; at 9,
+38° (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.
+
+15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its channel
+became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few miles
+below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in one part
+of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it would
+have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the S.S.W. I
+thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path was thus again
+crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then travelled 12½ miles,
+and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the day's journey, with little
+exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but for the rain that had
+fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and oxen. As it was,
+they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river, Mr. Stephenson
+caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a circumstance almost
+proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We found this day a new
+narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with bark thick, soft, and
+fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA was loaded
+with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods. Among the herbage was observed
+the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the
+light dry sand. Novelty in the plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be
+expected; the weather was cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment
+tolerably efficient. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 P. M., 58°; at 9
+P. M., 46° (XXXVII.). Height above the sea, 1827 feet.
+
+[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus
+mucronatoacuminatis supra glabris subtùs subsericeis marginibus arcte
+revolutis, paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-
+tomentosis. These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every
+other species.]
+
+16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river I
+had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th instant.
+The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning was
+about 2½ miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and even
+south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there was a
+little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I had
+intersected from the high station east of the depôt. It now bore 12° west
+of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country
+would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris was,
+as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand between
+them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its course,
+consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when their
+direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of
+encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be found
+in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for water, I
+found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 9 P.
+M., 54°. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.
+
+[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis
+canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis
+superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus
+parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis
+concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very
+distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid
+hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant,
+but very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]
+
+17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain already
+mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick forests of
+callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open places
+amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground was
+undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of these
+ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at length
+attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the summit I
+ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond it, we
+came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we greatly
+wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon
+hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy
+flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous
+but dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this
+downwards about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the
+sandstone cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks.
+Ascending at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above,
+and an open forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up
+at a rocky point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the
+Maran, convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far
+off. We descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry
+watercourse lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river.
+Here, however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform
+breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W., and
+I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,
+however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and the
+sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up
+the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found
+some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,
+which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for
+our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards
+until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without
+drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent
+throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from
+30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams
+might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained
+a vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was
+rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with
+rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make
+the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst
+the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I
+found, growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected
+by Allan Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of
+Hunter's River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on
+the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 9 P. M., 61°.
+
+18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly
+refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal
+Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the
+bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until
+he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst
+the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the
+summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my survey,
+lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was unimpeded by
+gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive view,
+embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of volcanic
+cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the direction
+of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little could be
+seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies, by which
+the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint in a long
+line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed thus to
+pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges about the
+25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden from my
+sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I had
+ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance bounded by
+low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides, like cliffs,
+towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke, indicated a
+good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station, that
+eastward of the depôt camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then
+attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the
+officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the
+summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,
+and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at
+a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could
+be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for
+which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race as
+had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science, and
+the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the world
+to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names were
+applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do honour
+to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a bald-
+forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to
+the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,
+Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished
+to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,
+Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all
+sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on which I
+stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as to
+form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,
+"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes
+grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst
+them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On
+returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a
+spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;
+having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal
+Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:
+thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds in
+the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the
+crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the
+horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more
+water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to
+the north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible
+from the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had
+found, in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone
+gullies radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards
+Mount Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of
+mountainous obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the
+principal features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for
+our carts in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first
+establish the party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it
+along the range towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be
+necessary, in order to turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking
+some rocky gully within a convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again
+to explore these recesses for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's
+pond in the main channel. Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two
+beautiful and delicate ferns, the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM
+ASSIMILE, the Australian maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA
+CUNNINGHAMII, on the rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a
+variety of E. SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise,
+56°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 63°; at 9, 55°. Height above the sea, 1578
+feet; and above river bed 40 feet.
+
+[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
+longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis)
+reticulatovenosis. This species is remarkable in the size and shape of
+its petiolated leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences
+(galls), each with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as
+many unequal projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of
+some BEGONIÀ.]
+
+19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the grass for
+our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, the
+sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's track
+towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which broke
+abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to the
+right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
+river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
+valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
+horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had already
+found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water sufficient for
+the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down the valley while
+they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile from the camp.
+The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this one, were dry.
+Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent quality. Pigeons
+were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) which is so great a
+luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the feathered race. The
+highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day appeared (by Captain
+King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. That of the camp over
+the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of these cliffs above the
+bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°;
+at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 61°.
+
+20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the country
+beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest land, and a
+less broken country, in a direction much further to the westward than the
+course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I now proceeded W.N.W.
+towards that open forest land. We found the country open for some miles,
+then, entering a flat or valley, I descended gradually between sandstone
+rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep ponds led to the north-west.
+On following this down, I found it turned more and more to the westward,
+and at length to the south-west, whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy
+banks, and, following up a ravine from the other side, again endeavoured
+to pursue my intended course. We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a
+sandstone range, and descended by another valley which led first
+northward, but terminated in joining a spacious grassy flat with dry
+ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this downwards for several miles in a
+rainy evening, and found at last, to my disappointment, that this also
+turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and hemmed in by low rocky points
+of ground, of very uniform shape. Many marks of natives appeared on the
+trees, and, in good seasons, it must be one of their favourite spots. I
+left it, however, when darkness and heavy rain obliged me to look for
+shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. By the time we arrived at
+this, we could see no grassy spot for our horses, nor any sort of cover
+for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a fallen tree, and under this,
+covered with a few boughs, we lay down on the wet earth for the night,
+being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, water for ourselves and
+horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9,
+57°.
+
+21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we should
+have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of well filled
+ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment to this
+journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were unavoidable.
+On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine open forest
+hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of Mount Owen,
+had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak induced me to
+approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little water-course
+in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the product of last
+night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the deviation from my
+route. A group of the most picturesque hills imaginable lay to the
+northward, and were connected with this, the whole being branches from
+the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep blue colour, where their
+clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly of a golden hue, from the
+rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke through the heavy clouds and
+poured rays over them, which perfected the beauty of the landscape. I
+recognised, from this apex, my station on Mount Owen, and several hills I
+had intersected from it. Amongst others, the three remarkable cones to
+the westward of Mount Faraday, apparently a continuation of the line of
+summits I have already mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal
+trap in nodules, the crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of
+lime, and there were many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round
+shot, strewed about. A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest
+part, and, on this summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by
+local attraction, and quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket
+sextant, and with it took some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily
+enjoyed a breakfast, and named the hill which gave us the water, Mount
+Aquarius. Returning towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived
+at the head of a gully which led tolerably direct until we found our
+track, in the creek I had run down on the preceding day. But night was
+approaching, and we had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern
+before which a large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night
+there in my cloak, I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at
+the camp, at 4 P. M., had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer
+to 22°, or 10° below the freezing point.
+
+22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
+determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
+original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
+neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a
+passing shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
+Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, from
+the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that summit
+to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of the
+Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land seemed the
+highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's Table Land. I
+could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix it in my map.
+I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the northward, and
+a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country beyond, through
+which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to prepare for a
+"raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 27°; at noon, 52°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 59°.
+
+23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled nearly
+northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large kangaroo
+entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in avoiding those
+on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, showed me that
+this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to Mount Clift from
+my former observations, and therefore followed it by keeping between the
+heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found one favourable for
+a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, valley, extending
+about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes evidently held much
+water, although they were then dry. This soon, however, turned to the
+south-west, evidently to join the channel I had before explored. Quitting
+it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended sandstone cliffs and pushed
+through scrubs, determined to proceed directly north-ward, until I met
+with valleys falling north-west. We thus passed just under the most
+easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, about sunset, to a hollow
+containing ponds, in two of which we found water. Here we gladly
+bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and were numerous higher up
+the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 54°; at 4 P. M., 50°;
+at 9, 40°.
+
+24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
+frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
+which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
+Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
+after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing
+feature, (especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley
+descending to the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water
+holes, and in two of these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The
+course, throughout all its windings, was towards the north-west, and this
+I, at the time, thought, might be a northern water. I therefore returned,
+anxious to bring the party thus far, at all events, and resolved to
+follow this little river down. We arrived, on our way back, in the
+evening of the same day, in the valley I had quitted in the morning,
+having followed down a water-course from the end of Hope's Table Land,
+under which I had passed, in search of a good way for the carts. Although
+we had seen promising ponds of water in this little channel, we could
+find none in the lower part, having in the expectation of finding some,
+rode on until darkness prevented me from going further. We were thus
+obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) without water, and almost
+without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern where I had slept a few
+nights before, especially when I arose here in the night to mend the
+fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt afterwards that at
+the camp, the thermometer at 4 P. M. had been as low as 17° of
+Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 51°; at 4 P. M.
+49°; at 9, 29°.
+
+[* This was 15° degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much more
+easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
+moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
+Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated 7th
+April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
+
+"With a temperature of 20° below the freezing point, we found the ice to
+form so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the
+barrier in so extremely severe a period of the season being
+impracticable, we stood away to the westward, for the purpose of making
+another attempt to approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude
+(76° S.) on the 15th February."]
+
+25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
+minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
+rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
+not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
+bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
+stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
+the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount
+Clift, or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country,
+should be preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the
+eastern gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift
+than at the point where I before came down. But I found them much more
+acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
+rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
+called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
+from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
+its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
+towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us upon
+the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
+looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
+and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
+discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
+dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! However
+that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding water. In the
+neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were collected; viz.
+NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES TENUIFOLIA,
+ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with HOVEA
+LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, a low
+shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small species
+of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a verdant
+fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small red
+berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
+appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
+being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have been
+an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost tomentose
+above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus DODONOEA,
+frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its flowers.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. M. 51°; at 9, 22°.
+
+[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus,
+foliis obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque,
+capsulis tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
+
+26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
+finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
+course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed the
+barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be 700
+feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
+to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel
+along its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had
+bivouacked on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before
+sunset, encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which
+were two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the
+horses nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered
+out of buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
+abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
+cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°;
+at noon, 48°; at 4 P. M. 47°; at 9, 37°.
+
+27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to come
+directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
+bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
+possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
+within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left,
+and some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
+encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
+cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
+way, about 3 P. M., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced with
+our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up by
+sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
+extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very
+luxuriant, apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately
+to the westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
+bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was open
+along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along its
+sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and various
+remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, forming a
+shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 20°; at 9 P. M., 29°. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
+
+28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the ordinary
+weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the barometer also
+indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I sent the party
+forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to the ponds in the
+newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I proceeded myself,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the fine cone already
+mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and extensive view of the
+mountains further northward. Most of the summits I had previously
+intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just appeared over an
+intermediate woody range, through which I was at a loss to discover where
+our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the north-west, I could
+just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills arising from a much
+lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever might be the final
+course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and water. The most
+important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a grey misty tint, as
+if it marked a valley descending from the highest eastern mountains,
+towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. Bare crests of
+similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole extent of that
+valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in such a clime,
+with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if watered
+well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it was
+fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended consisted of
+trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at its base, and
+on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact felspathic rock
+which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has been considered a
+very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an altered rock. Here,
+in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to break into
+irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; and I
+observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side lay
+uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60°. That this is a hypogene
+rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident
+at Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
+affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
+had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM ELLIPTICUM.
+I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since ascertained, by
+that officer's register and calculations, the height of this summit above
+the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 feet.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 25°. (XXXIX)
+
+29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water (coming
+from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left bank of
+the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged me to
+make some détours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we regained
+the banks of the river, although our progress was not considerable. Its
+general course was still north-west, to the spot selected for my second
+camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks high, rounded,
+and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel was rarely to be
+seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent temporary showers
+seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I ascertained the
+variation of the needle to be 8° 4' E. here. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+25°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 53°. Height above the sea, 1914 feet. (XL.)
+
+30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the
+southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered
+with scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the
+carts along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did
+not proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged
+us to abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
+projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
+direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the bank,
+southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
+directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained
+a view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
+and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
+this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of
+smoke seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but,
+towards the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this
+disappointment. Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an
+intervening woody range, there indicated a much lower and different kind
+of country, as if that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern
+waters; the woody intervening range appearing to be the division between
+them. As our last explored river again turned southward, it seemed
+reasonable to expect, beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing
+a different course. This range was plainly traceable from the high
+mountains more to the eastward, and was continuous westward to three
+remarkable conical hills, beyond which, the view did not extend. On the
+same range, a fine tableshaped mountain appeared nearly north. This I had
+already intersected from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The
+hill on which I stood consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the
+western extremity of Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards
+found by Mr. Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That
+ravine was extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The
+bottle-tree (Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it,
+in the stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One
+thorny tree or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again
+appeared here; it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf
+somewhat like the human hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright
+scarlet colour, about the shape and size of a French bean. This,
+sometimes grew to a tree as much as a foot in diameter; and the natives,
+who, like Nature herself, may be said to do nothing in vain, had cut one
+down, and carried off the whole of the trunk. The wood was of a leaden
+colour. This proved to be a new species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*]
+By our last day's journey, we had lost two miles of northing, and had
+thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south latitude. I therefore
+determined to cross our friendly little river, and look for another
+beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P. M., 65°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1732 feet. (XLI.)
+
+[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
+foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
+lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although
+no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the
+pod and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad
+and not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings
+extended.]
+
+1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to look
+into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
+western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
+into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
+that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
+into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
+to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
+clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I
+take him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out,
+and ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
+accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran
+northwest, and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow
+it then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
+back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
+to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
+way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to me.
+One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other or
+any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave to
+this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
+side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
+Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
+none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
+particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved
+ironbark, was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
+leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered lead-
+wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant among the
+grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was producing its
+small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow leaves and globular
+fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new CAPPARIS.[**]
+Thermometer, at daybreak, 35°; at 9 P.M., 38°.
+
+[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis
+obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus
+subsolitariis.]
+
+[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,
+foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus
+aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,
+stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]
+
+2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I had
+been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it widened
+very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a deep
+current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices seemed
+to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most picturesque
+outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us, resembled pyramids,
+and I saw an open country beyond them, from which other summits of
+extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we had found no moisture in the
+ponds, and lamented that a country, in every other respect so fine,
+should be without water. Further on, I perceived reeds in the hollow of
+the valley, and Yuranigh said there must be a spring, upon which he
+walked in amongst them, but still found the earth dry. The reeds at
+length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at the lower part of the
+flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to examine that point. He
+emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a distance, made Douglas, my
+other man, say, "He has found water." He had found A RUNNING STREAM, to
+which he had been guided by its own music, and taking a tin pot, he
+brought me some of it. The water was clear and sparkling, tasting
+strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that this was the head of a river
+that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of picturesque beauty and pastoral
+abundance, within eighty miles of the tropics, we had discovered the
+first running stream seen on this journey. I returned, determined to
+bring the party thus far, and with the intention of passing that night
+where we had found water in a rock about six miles back, that we might
+sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had also the benefit of a
+cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we defied the frost of a
+very cold night, the thermometer having been registered at the camp, at 3
+A.M., as low as 7°. In the scrubs we had passed through in the morning, a
+variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA, with grey velvety leaves, was
+scarcely in flower; and I observed a beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS
+with large tubular flowers.[*] The ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the
+sandstone ground above the gullies, and a broad-leaved form of the
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone brightly, and the rock being full
+of silver mica, the splendour of the scene imparted to my eye and mind
+then a degree of gratification far beyond any associations of the richest
+furniture of a palace. We found it impossible to get our horses to the
+water; but we hit upon an expedient which answered even better than a
+bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak.
+
+[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi
+in petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis
+acuminatis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra
+medium solutâ.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines
+long. Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]
+
+3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and found
+an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at the
+camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part of
+the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°; at
+noon, 60; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 26°. Height of camp above the sea, 1800
+feet. (XLII.)
+
+4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this morning.
+Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the banks had
+been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance we hit
+upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy valley
+descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky crooked
+part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub directly to
+the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the valley, and
+arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of my
+bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by Arcturus)
+to be 24° 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 4 P.M., 49°; at 9,
+38°. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)
+
+5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze our
+tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We proceeded
+along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which appeared quite
+isolated, and just such as painters place in middle distance, I named
+Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of the right bank of
+the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had suddenly
+brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we had before
+us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards the country we
+were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country seemed new to us.
+The barometer showed we were rapidly descending, and I expected that our
+living stream would soon join that greater stream, the basin of which I
+thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from Mount P. P. King on
+the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the others, curved round
+from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in mountains equidistant
+between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it was reasonable to suppose
+that we had at length crossed the division between northern and southern
+waters. That between eastern and western waters was still to be
+discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where water was so scarce
+then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means of determining
+where that division was. If the general course of this river was found to
+be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that the dividing
+ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the westward of
+north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our route, and
+this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing north-
+westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King. Latitude
+24° 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. M.,
+49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, according to sixteen observations,
+1421 feet. (XLIV.)
+
+6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA appeared
+amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods below, we found
+an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA (Reichb.) VAR.
+MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was less angular, and
+the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long hoary leaves,
+and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA, at a later
+season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also was found
+here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**] Travelling along
+the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of sparkling water
+to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could only account for
+the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a season, by the
+support of many springs. We made sure of water now for the rest of our
+journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et labetur in omne
+volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any I had ever seen
+in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals in ruins; others
+forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and contrasted with
+the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a fine stream in the
+foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole country. It was a
+discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those beautiful recesses
+of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown. The better to mark
+them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of Salvator Rosa.[***]
+The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the thick woods, just as
+John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them out in his beautiful
+sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature come so near these
+creations of genius and imagination. Where we encamped, the river was
+very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that the use of a bucket was
+necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding every precaution, one
+animal walked into the river, and could not be got out without great
+difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were two enormous eels,
+beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus lay abundantly on the
+banks, about the old fires of the natives. These were larger than either
+those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran; and although such
+freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a peculiarity in these was
+pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they much resembled the
+impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is much broader at the
+toes than at the heel). We here met with a new species of BORONIA,
+resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties afterwards occurred.
+It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale purple flowers.[****]
+A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining leaves, also grew
+here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed resembling
+European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with white
+flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS formed a small
+shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P.M., 49°; at 9,
+38°. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.
+
+[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus
+supra glabris subtus incanis, paniculâ terminali tomentosâ, floribus
+distantibus.]
+
+[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis
+oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris
+trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime
+pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6
+linearibus glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]
+
+[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and
+ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on
+mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]
+
+[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis
+pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus
+subsolitariis axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]
+
+[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis
+falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis
+subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis
+solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel
+brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia
+shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually
+almost sessile.]
+
+7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon
+found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in
+one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush
+mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the
+current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the
+hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most charming
+morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an open forest
+which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and in a general
+direction about north-west. At length we approached the northern limits
+of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it, as we had
+reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry channel, which bore
+the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons. Following this dry
+channel down, I found its course turned to the northward, and even to the
+north-east. When we were disposed to encamp, I could find no water in the
+bed, nor were we better off when we had encamped, until Corporal Graham
+dug between two rocks therein, and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in
+one day vanished the pleasing prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of
+a stream flowing in the direction of our intended route. This might be, I
+then thought, the tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would
+be found to flow westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the
+desired north-west direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at 4 P.M.,
+58°; at 9, 25°. (XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.
+
+8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this
+river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling
+into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick
+brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged
+gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,
+induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined
+to penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that
+there I might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction,
+or, if not, cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was
+lost, however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses
+crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The
+scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings
+admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of
+sunset, I found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only
+half a minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with
+difficulty, about two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of
+a small watercourse, I found that even this turned south-east, evidently
+to fall into the reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I
+determined on an immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back
+to our friendly river. It was comparatively easy to return through the
+opening we had made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so
+that by twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the
+river, and near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying
+almost in my face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we
+afterwards found the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of
+the bullocks got bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole
+strength of the party dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+18°; at 4 P.M., 54°; at 9, 25°. Height above the sea, 1241 feet.
+
+9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the
+scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and
+the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24° 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 14°; (in my tent, 18°;) at 9 P.M., 48°.
+
+10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight
+eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to
+cut a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.
+While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but
+met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that
+direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.
+towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined
+them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through
+open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy
+gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.
+Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the
+border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24° 33'
+25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 P.M., 62°; at 9,
+29°. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.
+
+11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a
+fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again
+impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of this
+river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a
+large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to
+the eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward.
+It was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the
+coast, and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in
+it, about the latitude of 25° S. This was more apparent to me on crossing
+the river, and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He
+could see no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high
+table land already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could
+trace the course of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed
+them to encamp, and proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W.
+direction, carrying provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea
+of Brigalow--
+
+"----And we did buffet it, With lusty sinews throwing it aside, And
+stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."
+
+After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were
+rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.
+That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the
+foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood, extended
+far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of mountains of
+romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.
+
+"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"
+
+included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which, with
+its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the
+finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a
+perfectly clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had
+emerged, through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond
+that spot, until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits
+before me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these
+masses, seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my
+observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,
+the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a
+great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of
+quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it.
+I could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense
+of shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and
+prove ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had
+indulgently destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we
+traversed, consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood
+in great abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden
+as to be only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken
+character. Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich
+black earth, which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history
+may be simple, and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy
+could but find it out. We found, further on, a channel full of water,
+with reeds about the bed of it. There had been a current in it a short
+time previously, and, indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in
+some hollows in the Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and
+thus might have afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had
+other directions been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow
+near the water, not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and
+thus we passed the night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 30°.
+
+12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the
+assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,
+than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed
+Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the
+reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet
+in that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the
+remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,
+although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason
+for supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could
+escape to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; in my tent, 15°; at
+noon, 67° at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 35°. Height above the sea, 1107 feet.
+
+13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river
+Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W.,
+but deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick
+scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we crossed,
+was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the river, where
+I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains adjacent, the
+ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we saw also various
+new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs in the scrub. The
+banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay. I employed the
+party to make a bridge across it, and this was well completed before
+sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M. 68°; at 9,
+40°. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)
+
+14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we
+travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the
+richest plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS,
+and PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most
+abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have
+been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived
+at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We
+soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,
+apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub
+of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so
+thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad,
+but because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so
+easily take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack,
+after imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich
+land was thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex,
+agate, and chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most
+strikingly resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an
+entire trunk lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains
+of a tree! I obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of
+this were rare. The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was
+1512 feet above the sea.
+
+Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to the
+westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping towards
+a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to find an
+open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at length arrived.
+I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and having halted the
+party to examine them, I found they were quite impassable. Such an
+unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open country, yet UNDER
+that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it was unexpected, and
+I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I had seen on our
+right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also found some large
+ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were pitching the tents I
+rode down the valley about two miles, and found that the direction of the
+water-course was about north-east. Such a direction was not very
+favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country beyond the
+limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it further.
+Latitude, 24° 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 P. M., 66°;
+at 9, 49°. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.
+
+15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I proceeded
+about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length, mighty
+rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further. Leaving him
+in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely accessible with
+Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated summit, I saw still
+worse gullies before us, amongst which I could perceive no feature
+affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any characteristic of the
+structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the rugged summits I
+had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered, and could not
+then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on completing my map),
+that they were then under my feet. The highest parts seemed to extend
+south-westward. To cross such a region with our carts, was quite
+impossible, and I could only return, and, however reluctantly, follow
+down the valley in which we had encamped, until it should afford access
+to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse were steep, the
+bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous, alternately closing on
+rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus we were obliged to
+cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered each crossing a
+difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after crossing ten
+times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct distance from
+the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each crossing, cut
+the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general direction, I
+ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near the spot,
+where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this having been
+the first water we had seen during that day's laborious journey.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 44°.
+
+16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I considered
+it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, and
+thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour and
+delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore distressing
+to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to work out of it,
+to get round them. The whole day was consumed in proceeding thus about 5½
+miles, and in an easterly direction. The closing in of the valley lower
+down, seemed to shut us from further progress even so, and I encamped,
+rather at a loss how to proceed. Just then Mr. Stephenson came to inform
+me that he had seen, from a rocky point on the left, an opening to the
+north-west, and level ground beyond it. I therefore determined to
+accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre the country in that direction.
+By digging in the bed of the creek, water was again obtained by Corporal
+Graham. Some extremely fragrant shrubs were discovered in these rocky
+recesses, especially one, which filled the air with perfume to a great
+distance around. It seemed to be a EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit,
+but with a powerful odour of balm, and formed a bush five feet high,
+growing on sandstone rocks, having a narrow leaf, and rather thorny
+stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] There was another bush, with
+leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but having a perfume equally strong
+of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that neither the seed, flower, nor
+fruit of these interesting shrubs could be obtained at that season. In
+that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed,
+and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began
+to indicate its flowering season, and we found a magnificent new crimson
+CALLISTEMON with its young flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new
+DODONOEA with wingless, 3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species
+of AOTUS, with narrow hoary leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees
+was a splendid new GEIGERA, with broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The
+PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very singular and little known fern, with
+narrow leaves and small orbicular leaflets, was also there, with the
+ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA
+AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-
+like heads of flowers, was common; and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA
+MONOPHYLLA was observed among the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at
+9 P.M., 41°.
+
+[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
+foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
+basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
+
+[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute
+tuberculatis, foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-
+parallelo-venosis viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to
+name this EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the
+deliciously fragrant lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as
+the recent state of the plant.]
+
+[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
+quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
+lanatis.]
+
+[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-
+lanceolatis parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis
+3-locularibus trigonis apteris.]
+
+[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
+crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis,
+calycis vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
+villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOÏDES Meisn., but differing in the narrow
+and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
+
+[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe
+petiolatis subtus obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This
+appears to differ from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
+
+17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. By
+merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another water-
+course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came from the
+west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I had
+previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
+this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
+deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
+broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
+gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
+all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling
+to my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
+and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at
+the gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to
+guard the entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and
+kangaroos were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very
+attentively, to be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature
+only. A turret with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first
+appeared through the trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a
+round hill. On a nearer approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey
+rocks, and the small pines climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising
+out of a forest of common trees, presented still a very remarkable
+object. I named the valley "Glen Turret," and this feature "Tower
+Almond," after an ancient castle, the scene of many early associations,
+and now quite as uninhabited as this. Passing through Glen Turret, we
+ascended the nearest summit on the right, and from it beheld a prospect
+most cheering, after our toils amid rocky ravines. On the westward, the
+rocky range seemed to terminate abruptly towards the north, in an
+elevated point, which seemed to command an extensive view over the
+unknown W. and N.W. Out of that region two isolated mountain masses arose
+from an open country, and were clothed with open forests to their
+summits. Further eastward, masses of mountain in the extreme distance
+appeared covered, also, with open forests, and presented finely rounded
+outlines, not likely to impede our passage, in any direction. But towards
+the N.W. our view was not so extensive; like the uncertain future, it
+still lay hid. The retrospect was very extensive, including Mount Faraday
+in the extreme distance, and which thus afforded me a valuable back angle
+for the correction of our longitude from any errors of detailed survey.
+The lofty mass of Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E.,
+and I could here again intersect its three principal points. The view
+back to the Pass was very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on
+the bold summits, as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to
+the westward, an interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach,
+presenting a crescent, concave on that side, apparently the limit to the
+basin of the Nogoa, and the dividing range between eastern and western
+waters. Our Pass seemed to be the only outlet through the labyrinths
+behind us. Even the open plains beyond them were visible in a yellow
+streak above the precipices. Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was
+distinctly visible, on the horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 29°; at 9 P.M., 43°. (LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
+
+18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
+brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
+obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its
+elevated extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction,
+tolerably open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of
+grass, and near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds
+descending to the eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the
+habit of a dwarf Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24° 6' 47" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 44°.
+(LII.)
+
+[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
+cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus
+solitariis sessilibus.]
+
+19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting further
+to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most northern
+summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up by
+gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
+and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
+near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
+summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
+Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
+apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
+feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
+the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
+appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features,
+although much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then
+stood, seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some
+higher ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the
+coast. Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken
+hills, at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-
+connected undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the
+south-east, whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy
+Creek, while others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a
+separate basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river
+was indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the
+left or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated
+mountain mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the
+valley formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point
+of the whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite,
+lay in that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10° W. of
+N.) through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
+mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
+according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
+not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
+named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
+were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
+itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
+impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
+camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
+two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
+Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
+that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
+handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
+Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham took
+the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
+expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
+woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or
+deeds suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
+this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
+which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered a
+very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
+leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
+gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
+Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**].
+Although we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
+pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed us to
+the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had been
+frosty. Latitude, 24° 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 47°.
+
+[* See page 285.]
+
+[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
+lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
+canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VI.
+
+THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
+OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
+WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
+EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN PLAINS,
+WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DRY
+CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND PROCEED N.W.--FROM
+A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH BRIGALOW SCRUB
+TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE CHANNEL MORE
+CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY CHANNEL JOINS
+FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS
+FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK BRIGALOW.--NIGHT
+WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS COURSE BEING EASTWARD
+OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE OUR TRACK TO THE
+PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART,
+WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow scrub,
+on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, and
+crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards the
+N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, resembling
+a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was precipitous, and
+seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after crossing a ridge
+rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub upon it, and one
+or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the bottle tree,
+(DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses descending to the
+southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. One, at length, on
+our right, taking the direction in which I was proceeding, viz., 10° W.
+of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a broader valley leading N.W.
+Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, we found at length a fine
+pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, after a journey of about
+twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to the base of the lofty
+isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower valley crossed it,
+falling either to the northward or southward. This I left in pleasing
+uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that locality, when
+I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running north and south.
+I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount Beaufort, in honour
+of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°;
+at noon, 66°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 62°. (LIII.)
+
+21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad valley,
+we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly turned
+in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from the
+south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
+Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we had
+at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil consisted
+of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. We got
+amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for the
+channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
+Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
+no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
+brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon arid
+stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently from
+drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means encouraging.
+On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, at an
+old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that water was
+not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two native
+companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, on which
+salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the Bogan, had
+been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The very grass
+seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so checked by drought.
+A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, and convert the
+country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured further, to send
+the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to examine the
+country before us. Latitude, 23° 48' 36". Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°;
+at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 48°.
+
+22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, I
+went forward on the bearing of 30° W. of N. I soon fell in with the
+united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
+direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
+these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
+ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
+northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
+them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to relieve
+me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A promising
+valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, and from it
+arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, from other
+ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured the outlines
+of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this morning were
+a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of yesterday. Such is
+human life in travelling, and so it was in war at Salamanca this day
+thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short journey on the bank of
+the river. Latitude, 24° 46' 46". Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°, at noon,
+74°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 64°. (LIV.)
+
+23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so that
+none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. Accordingly, on
+arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to all, that they
+might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we not
+fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread into
+little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes formed
+by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of the
+grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been due,
+and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we had
+travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
+scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
+with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
+and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the water-
+worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, besides
+the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. Very old
+and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were small
+fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large forked
+tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
+eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
+apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
+23° 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 P.M. 80;
+at 9, 55°. (LV.)
+
+24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air was
+balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. Lightning
+had been seen to the northward during the night. In following the little
+wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, and crossed
+two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a good large
+pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling the main
+channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. With the
+last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became neighbours to
+the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was to be seen, and
+the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in length, with
+ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of thunder was heard
+in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, that we were near
+the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms exhausted
+themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where they fell.
+During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next morning, to
+the northward. Latitude, 23° 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4, P.M., 82°; at 9, 66°. (LVI.)
+
+25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
+route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
+Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
+line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
+just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
+fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
+The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
+improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
+rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to the
+eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At eight
+miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many ducks,
+and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, finding that
+water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we required it.
+Latitude, 23° 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at noon, 77°; at 4
+P.M., 85°; at 9, 53°. (LVII.)
+
+26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out in
+that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
+scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
+of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
+genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
+travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
+indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
+straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
+rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
+new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
+flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
+useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; and
+useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
+fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late,
+I travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained
+its banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
+bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst
+it, evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
+spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
+terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and
+fruit. Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and
+underside of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span
+long, cordato acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green
+and glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
+pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
+Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
+seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 79°; at 4 P.M., 89°; at 9, 75°.
+(LVIII,)
+
+[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis,
+foliis impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis
+subalternis.]
+
+27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
+variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much whereof
+lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there was
+any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
+little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
+water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as
+close as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
+yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
+was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
+thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
+named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a range
+in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only to
+send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
+westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
+water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
+miles. Latitude, 23° 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 83°; at
+4 P.M., 90°; at 9, 53°. (LIX.)
+
+28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
+hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
+southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
+and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
+formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
+impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
+to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from
+the usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
+party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
+by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
+over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
+fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had been
+flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed there,
+the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of water, and
+beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a tribe
+of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of decayed
+stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once grown, and
+that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing; as if,
+according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to open
+downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular seasons,
+become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted in the
+scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the plain, and
+across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through some open
+forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the many dry
+channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom then
+consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit it,
+and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly undulating
+ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the LORANTHUS
+SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a tree, from
+whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of which I
+ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it, through
+which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The extreme
+westerly escarp of these hills bore 17° E. of N., so that nothing was
+likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
+direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
+consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
+brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
+stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
+On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
+good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
+plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
+found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23° 5'
+20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P.M., 88°; at 9,
+58°. (XL.)
+
+29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of easy
+access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a N.W.
+direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood and
+other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew in the
+place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open, park-
+like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a greenness
+was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these tropical regions.
+Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-
+flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike plant, and a form of
+Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the two other varieties. This
+was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species of the genus GEIJERA
+formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender weeping branches. It
+was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, except that its flowers
+were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus STENOCHILUS, but
+new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large spreading tree,
+from which we could bring away nothing that would enable botanists to
+describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of the leaves, which,
+Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE; but the fruit appeared
+to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect to lead to any
+satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently from those near
+Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another language." This river
+was not the least unique of our recent discoveries. It still consisted of
+a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any one continuous
+channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by various trees
+growing in the banks. When their large roots became denuded by the
+floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that the tree fell
+over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the floating-wreck,
+and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of floating wreck
+became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so formed forced the
+river into new currents, working out new courses; and this appeared to
+give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It seems extremely
+favourable for the retention of water in a country where it may be
+scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun, preserve it
+much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed channel
+alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found the
+hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded in
+discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
+naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
+although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
+attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
+delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
+90° about 4 P.M., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
+recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
+disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
+in May. Latitude, 22° 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon,
+80°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 51°. (LXI.)
+
+[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus
+in petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
+
+[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
+apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
+lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis
+infimâ retusâ vix caeteris magis solutâ.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but
+much whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the
+lower one much broader.]
+
+30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
+endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
+the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to
+the left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into
+extensive plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and
+that was skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we
+entered an open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw,
+from the skirts of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the
+east for several days past, and I was able to intersect various points.
+We seemed to be descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon,
+covered with ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved
+both as to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet
+high, was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
+DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M.
+DULCE. A hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained
+abundance of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and,
+instead of brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong
+grass, and much verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble
+to cross, and soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had
+run well to the westward. We had crossed the 147° of E. longitude, and I
+was very anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I
+crossed it, and hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a
+flat-topped cliffy range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was
+low; the middle part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our
+camp. It was likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our
+purpose. Latitude, 22° 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
+82°; at 4 P.M., 83°; at 9, 45°. (LXII.)
+
+31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
+that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in
+a deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
+I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
+river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This
+new river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened
+across it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction
+of the two rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green
+pods and dry pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than
+those of Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?)
+Beyond the last found river, we travelled over open forest land,
+occasionally passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might
+again see water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our
+abundant little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for
+such was the bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious
+dry lagoon. Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large
+floods from the river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still
+continuing along the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared,
+and I finally encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The
+course and character of the river below the junction last mentioned,
+remained to be ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which,
+before the rain, had been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen,
+which bore some resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered
+in any quantity. The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form
+from any to be seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard
+clay about the size and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being
+larger, or as much as 3½ feet high, others smaller. In some places they
+were so numerous, as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst,
+especially where the grass was long. Latitude of this camp, 22° 44' 45".
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 43°.
+(LXIII.)
+
+1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
+followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came upon
+the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many miles in
+that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where the very
+coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina appeared
+amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh went to the
+top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to the
+eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
+course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low
+range already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country
+between the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very
+low. Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
+course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction,
+and forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
+much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
+Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
+important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
+grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
+lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
+ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
+encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
+appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
+woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
+white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
+tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
+bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
+LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
+Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary CAPPARIS
+was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight inches long,
+although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and their hard
+leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
+afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 44°. Latitude, 22°
+38' 40". (LXIV.)
+
+[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
+longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
+solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
+
+2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain, but
+lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W. course
+in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests alternating
+with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving dry hollows
+where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all these
+hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and children,
+remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These numerous
+receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with which even
+the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of the animal
+world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that sort of
+scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river, by
+travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
+the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
+camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
+river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
+would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
+nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
+terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
+be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40° N. of W. to
+40° E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost
+bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the
+river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned
+direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In
+the dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite
+new to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and
+a very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found
+near this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS
+CURVIPES was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of
+Acacia was perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also
+a curious scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22° 30' 10" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 61°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 40°.
+(LXV.)
+
+[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
+oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
+pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
+pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
+distinct.]
+
+[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus,
+oblongospathulatis acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et
+obsolete dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis
+radicalibus elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum
+vel trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-
+lanceolatis, floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis,
+membranaceis, ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis,
+petiolatisque; antherae liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum,
+labiis compressis, cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent.
+lata, crassinervia; scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum
+elongati.]
+
+[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
+glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
+laciniis duabus supremis diù vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
+subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
+
+3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
+crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the
+river bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain
+distance from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had
+been accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the
+river, and other food. The river was found to spread into separate
+channels, in which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them
+again united in a splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general
+course was by no means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was
+much to be apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast,
+and become another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the
+interior country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys
+have been made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
+polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
+brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part
+where we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded
+by torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn
+banks, and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from
+these obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
+scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
+two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
+coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
+the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten
+miles. The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics,
+which they seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That
+we had just quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for
+brigalow scrubs, and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered
+river seemed quite the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform;
+the banks being covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was
+sandy, but contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us
+to higher regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might
+fall in the direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin
+fish of the Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in
+the river to which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other
+sorts. There was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in
+particular, growing in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining
+bark of the tea-tree (mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of
+the eucalyptus; a HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI,
+but not in flower; a CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or
+at least closely allied to it, occupied the dry sandy ground with
+MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded weed; and some Cinchonad allied to
+Coffea, with young fruit, the size of small olives. Latitude, 22° 23'
+10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 59°; at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9,
+37°; with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVI.)
+
+4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit the
+head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in any
+direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
+soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
+it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
+to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
+ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
+length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
+and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one piece of
+rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the rest,
+and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated
+flattopped range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
+similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
+woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
+still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
+eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
+northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
+these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to
+follow in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the
+horizon, I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to
+have found water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and
+absorbent. There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22° 19' 45" S. On this
+day's journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan,
+none of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed
+the Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like
+mint, was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new
+MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 P.M., 63°;
+at 9, 29°; with wet bulb, 18°.
+
+[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
+excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis
+acuminatis appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis
+obtusis imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis
+globosis.--A very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII,
+Endl.: but extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of
+the copious slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the
+bleached slender branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the
+leaves had been, as it were, sunk.]
+
+5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my expectations, we
+had come quite far enough from the one we had previously followed, which
+still might have turned N.W., where we wished it to go; although I
+confess the prospect was by no means promising. The doubt was still to be
+removed, and, after a night passed without water, the earliest dawn saw
+us again going forward, in a direction a little to the eastward of N. It
+was only after pursuing that line for seventeen miles, that we again
+found the river, unchanged in character, and still running northerly.
+This was a trying day for our animals, as they could not be watered until
+long after it was dark; a brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber,
+having retarded and impeded the carts so that they could not be got to
+the water sooner. Nor had this been possible, even then, but for the
+fortunate circumstance of our having the light of a nearly full moon. I
+had preceded the party by some miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest
+following my horse's tracks, and I had thus passed through the four miles
+of scrub, and reached the river early in the day. On returning, we found
+the party in the midst of this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even
+by moonlight, to the pond at which we had watered our horses during the
+day. Many dry hollows of indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the
+brigalow we had passed through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as
+much as possible, through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs,
+many of which we were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many
+deep impressions of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also
+the tracks of emus. Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had
+been following a kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method
+adopted by the natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which
+is, to pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they
+overtake the animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at
+length so defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk.
+According to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much
+higher above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still
+it spread into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being
+sometimes in good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be
+more sterile than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first
+indication of the river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass,
+and we had to ride two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find
+the river, having been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives.
+At the first place we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water,
+under the shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22° 10' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 36°;--
+with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVII.)
+
+6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
+an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
+
+7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along the
+river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
+and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
+channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water,
+glittered before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger
+water-fowl shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to
+the northeast, as if our river had been either breaking off in that
+direction, or met with some important tributary from that side. I
+continued to travel northwest, passing through some fine open forests.
+The character of the country seemed changed. The grass was of a different
+kind, and a refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of
+water," as Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared
+still to be continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward,
+the more I was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at
+length approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found
+this was a river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as
+the one we had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new
+tributary from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had
+been pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too
+probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
+towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
+eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
+opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
+ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
+could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction.
+Their report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take
+a ride forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W.,
+and at two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was
+found to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still
+continued northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The
+STENOCHILUS PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet
+high, and in the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E.
+HYPERICIFOLIA, but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not
+glabrous. The DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy
+fruits, clothed the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude,
+22° 2' 15" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 78°; at 4 P.M., 77°;
+at 9, 55°;--with wet bulb 49°. (LXVIII).
+
+[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
+bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
+arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis
+densifloris, floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque
+tomentosis, folliculis oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis
+glabris.--Allied to G. CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves
+are narrower, not golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely
+secund: a splendid species.]
+
+[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissimè pilosa, foliis pinnatis
+pinnis oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel
+incisis, rachi articulatâ articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis
+tetrapteris villosissimis.]
+
+8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first, northward by
+compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub, upon fine open downs
+covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil was soft and rich, the
+grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias were strewed over these
+downs, which were very extensive, and from them I saw several rather high
+hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly over a low country to the
+northward. Supposing that the main channel would there turn round to the
+eastward, I proceeded north-west to examine the country. I soon entered a
+thick scrub of rosewood and other Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON
+NERVOSUM, previously seen (July) with rich crimson flowers, forming a
+large tree, in the dry open forest, with perfectly green spikes; also, on
+the branches of Eucalypti, a beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil
+was rich, yielding, and rather bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated
+limestone, or marble, appeared on the surface, showing that the
+improvement in the soil was owing to a change in the rocks under it.
+Again emerging on open plains, the country seemed to fall northward,
+which induced me to ride again in that direction, thinking we might meet
+with some river either coming from the N. W. or leading there. The open
+plains terminated upon a hollow full of trees, growing, as was very
+evident, on a lower surface. The hollows resembled those of brigalow
+scrub, and we soon found this tree in full possession of them. Dry
+channels, leading in various directions between N. W. and E. engaged my
+attention throughout the afternoon: indeed, they seemed interminable. At
+length, we detected some continuity in the hollows, leading towards the
+N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it, abundance of grass on the
+banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows hovering over one, raised our hopes
+that it contained water, as we also perceived a line of green vegetation
+over the margin. It was deep and full of water. Here, about 4 P. M., we
+were thus enabled to water our horses, and continue our ride
+independently of finding more water that evening. We next perceived an
+open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the country from it, we
+saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering the brigalow
+scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct, and I at length lost
+it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a direction in
+which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the mazes of
+another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions between N.
+W. and 20° N. of E., the latter being the general course. During this
+unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where the dry and
+naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had come thirty
+miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark, that I
+found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and lay
+down to pass the night.
+
+9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded again
+into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous channel,
+and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a plain.
+Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very much
+resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found the
+river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
+ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
+We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while engaged
+laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives looking at us
+from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough to one who
+stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who instantly replied to
+my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It was a brief but
+intelligible interview; no words could have been better understood on
+both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we saw these
+natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had been
+turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
+while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was telegraphing
+with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some vessel with
+water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled, and advanced
+to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also that they
+might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green bough and
+subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us. Yuranigh was
+burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed him to throw them
+about, that the natives might see that we neither eat their kangaroos nor
+emus. I found the course of the river very straight, but rather more than
+it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts of the channel, lay
+deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other places, shallow
+hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the river's
+currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a grassy
+part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we had
+reached that morning.
+
+10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the north,
+with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove as
+rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great novelty to
+us there. About 9 A.M., the sky was wholly overcast; but it finally
+cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3 P.M.,
+having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower. There I
+found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of water,
+being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined to
+explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
+the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
+visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all
+very strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them
+carried three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and
+a gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts.
+They said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
+pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr. Stephenson
+happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then beckoned to
+the party that they also should follow or go where I had gone, or leave
+that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and patiently, by
+the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my man Brown,
+being very desirous that I should return before they departed; thinking
+the old man might have given me some information about the river, which
+he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation seemed to arise between the
+old chief and the tallest man, about the clubs, during which the latter
+again came forward, and beckoned to others behind, who came close up
+also. Each carried a club under each arm, and another in each hand, and
+from the gestures made to this advanced party, by the rest of the tribe
+of young men at a distance, it appeared that this was intended to be a
+hostile movement. Brown accordingly drew out the men in line before the
+tents, with their arms in their hands, and forbade the natives to
+approach the tents. "Nothing damps the ardour of troops so much," says
+General Lloyd, "as an unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and
+these strong men stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five
+men in line, with incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our
+three dogs ran at them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better.
+They all took to their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of
+their tribe; and the only casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which
+biting at the legs of a native running away, he turned round, and hit the
+dog so cleverly with his missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill
+for months after; the native having again, with great dexterity, picked
+up his club. The whole of them then disappeared, shouting through the
+woods to their gins. It was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they
+exclaimed "Yerraman," the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of
+these animals they were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much
+dread of the bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack
+the white strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but
+another of the many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight,
+without treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition.
+That they did not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when
+detached from the body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be
+set down as a favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for
+whenever they visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I
+was absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The
+old man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
+this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
+intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
+joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below
+that junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the
+natives, and learn something of the country to the north-west.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 62°;--
+with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp, we
+travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
+main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
+connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
+this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which
+M. Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21° 6' S., and which he
+supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
+three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
+to about 30° E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21° 30' of latitude
+south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at
+all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its
+bed, moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600
+feet), that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and
+western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following
+conclusions:--
+
+1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
+westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
+
+2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
+the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
+greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
+3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25° S., the highest spinal
+range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount
+Faraday appeared to be one.
+
+I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head of
+the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
+as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
+marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
+left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
+being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
+good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
+which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
+pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
+occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
+the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
+exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
+plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
+Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves; and
+the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous among
+the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
+STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
+Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
+resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of
+LABICHEA.[***] Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P.M.,
+70°; at 9, 35°;--with wet bulb, 30°.
+
+[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
+integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
+glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
+attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty
+well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
+Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which Brown
+also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new species
+with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by Sir T.
+Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
+
+[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
+glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
+tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
+
+[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
+foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
+reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
+conformibus.]
+
+12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed themselves on
+the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads homewards, merely
+saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher point. The track
+already marked out by our party advancing, was so much easier for the
+draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they arrived at an early
+hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and travelled with ease
+three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the banks of which
+the grass was good, and where we therefore now encamped. The track of the
+large feet of the natives showed they had followed us this morning, from
+our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of burning wood they had dropped,
+showed that they had this day met us in the scrub as we returned, and had
+gone out of our way. Even to the lagoon, their track along our route was
+also plainly visible. I was now, apparently to them, at their request,
+leaving the country; and we should soon see if their purpose in visiting
+our camp was an honest one, and whether their reasonable and fair demand,
+was really all they contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 71°; at 9, 65°.
+
+13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond Camp
+LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in order to
+avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without water, and the
+thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing over fine open
+forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the river on our left
+when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the water, and distant
+only a few miles from the camp two journies back from LXVII. I was guided
+by the bearing of 10° E. of N. We found much of the grass on fire, and
+heard the natives' voices although we saw none. We crossed some patches
+of dry swamp where the clods had been very extensively turned up by the
+natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh could not form any conjecture.
+These clods were so very large and hard that we were obliged to throw
+them aside, and clear a way for the carts to pass. The whole resembled
+ground broken up by the hoe, the naked surface having been previously so
+cracked by drought as to render this upturning possible without a hoe.
+There might be about two acres in the patch we crossed, and we perceived
+at a distance, other portions of the ground in a similar state. The river
+had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked channel, with abundance of clear
+water in it, and firm accessible banks. It was still, however, enveloped
+in a narrow belt of brigalow. The shepherd having most imprudently taken
+the sheep to water when it was near sunset, lost his way in the scrub,
+and could not be found all night. Some thought he had fallen into the
+hands of the aborigines who were closely watching us; and it was obvious
+that had they got possession of our sheep, they could have annoyed us
+very seriously, or indeed, destroyed the whole party. The night was very
+dark, the sky having been overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
+noon, 61°; at 4 P.M., 60; at 9, 60.
+
+14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and high
+barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I sent
+Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
+shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 A. M. He had
+been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
+fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
+been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
+found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
+seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
+encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
+at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
+more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
+drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
+towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
+rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
+from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
+decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
+was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
+other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
+grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
+probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
+
+[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long,
+linear attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the
+other with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large
+forest trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
+
+15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we arrived
+at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course, (7° E.
+of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to cut
+off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged me
+to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
+midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
+of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
+encamped about 3 P.M., when the rain again came on, the morning having
+been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 66°; at 9, 60°;--
+with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
+country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
+river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in
+our route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
+filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
+tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-
+tree of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There
+also grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered
+MELALEUCA, resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*];
+and, in the scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-
+like shrub fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I
+intended to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We
+thus left Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at
+that of LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 65; at 4 P.M., 63°;
+at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
+utrinque acutissimis, spicâ terminali laxiusculâ rachi pilosâ, calyce
+glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis
+breviore.]
+
+17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen, the
+product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
+the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in
+heaps, or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of
+this singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered
+in any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round
+clouds driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this
+of Bunten stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been
+formerly encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from
+S. W., we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only
+on the dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and
+I could have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
+horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
+rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just
+mentioned, which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a
+laxative medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks
+were quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most
+parts covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in
+good time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
+ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
+plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
+wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
+evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 P. M., a wind
+from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+55°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P. M., 74°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the sky
+was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved off, at
+our usual hour, 7 A. M. About nine, the western portion of the sky seemed
+loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a heavy rain
+began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of clay,
+which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much delay,
+at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI., and
+there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without intermission
+until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into mud, almost
+knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded, of water
+in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which was still
+to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river, flowing
+towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; at noon,
+54°; at 4 P. M., 53°.
+
+19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
+brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the
+earth. The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I
+had thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in
+that interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I
+had ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
+gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing
+range, if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the
+parallel of 24° or 25°, the fall of waters and of the whole country was
+towards the south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so
+decidedly in the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we
+had just explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending
+from a mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet
+above the sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those
+we had seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the
+water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable
+to expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to
+the Gulf of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal
+range extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island,
+and there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward
+and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be
+sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result
+of which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the
+north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the
+country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most momentous
+interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and provisions
+almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic line before
+we could return to it), I was determined to carry the exploration so far,
+with whatever means could be spared from the party, even had it been
+necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like a native, on
+opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+45°; at noon, 63°; at 4 P. M., 63°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 44°.
+
+20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
+formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
+and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground passed
+over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every hollow, a
+great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect of relief
+from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes past 10
+P.M. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke every man in
+it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next, a blaze of
+light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass, or
+revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
+sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which
+a sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was
+such that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the
+ground, and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was
+very clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46°.
+
+21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through
+hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
+impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful for
+the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had hitherto
+confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country. We
+cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our journey
+was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to avoid the
+former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and much bad
+brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the sake of a piece
+of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most pleasant, temperate,
+and Englishlike, though we were still within the tropics. A sweet breeze
+blew from the S. W., and the degree of temperature was between 50° and
+60° of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable, I believe, of any, to the human
+frame. There was abundance of water, and young grass was daily growing
+higher; many trees were also beginning to blossom. We were retiring,
+nevertheless, RE INFECTÂ, from these tropical regions, and I was
+impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to resume my
+explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a wild carrot,
+tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it, from the
+effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea already
+mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt whatever,
+that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The GEIJERA
+PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour of its
+long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, in
+the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood was
+remarkable from a perfume like roses.
+
+22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked and
+sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
+miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
+earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp LVIII.,
+and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of good grass.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P. M., 72°; at 9, 43°;--
+with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the
+westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it. We
+thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
+berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
+to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
+was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
+rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
+rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow. We
+encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a spot
+where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being very
+bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon alter the
+case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
+splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
+seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
+be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
+exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
+was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
+spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 P. M., 75°; at 9, 44°;--with wet
+bulb, 41°.
+
+24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
+horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
+eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former
+track; and in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above
+the letters N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line
+of Capricorn. I left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret;
+the weather had favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant.
+The three last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on
+these mornings at 25°, 28°, and 29°, respectively. Many interesting trees
+and shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able
+to gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII.,
+along our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23° 31' 36" S.; and there
+again set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of
+tropical Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass
+near our route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones.
+These being of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the
+table, GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible
+to bring them up, and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood.
+This bird seemed to have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and
+flew more clumsily than others. It had three streaks of white about the
+head, assimilating it to the poultry class; and in building on the
+ground, it afforded another indication of its resemblance to our domestic
+birds. The flesh is very white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the
+most delicate of all birds. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 75°;
+at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 46°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very crooked from
+following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I set out on
+the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a straight
+line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open ground. The
+blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees, were welcome
+to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded me of the Persian
+proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the eyes." We encamped
+a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better grass than we had left
+formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted of gravel; and
+amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it consisted, I found
+basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been detected by me
+amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+48°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P.M., 77°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
+shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.; which
+spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary; but I
+could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily journies
+short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges. One of
+the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but Yuranigh, by
+chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The thermometer
+had been as low as 38°; but the birds had been kept in a box well covered
+with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of this camp, I
+found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having been first
+seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°;
+at noon, 80°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
+along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
+right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view
+of the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
+firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
+hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
+I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
+elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
+
+I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
+on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward
+the east, at an angle of about 25° with the horizon; on which side those
+slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they presented
+abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides, forming
+an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on the east
+side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay our
+former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
+eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
+camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was found in
+a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed of the
+main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the water
+before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+41°; at noon, 79; at 4 P.M., 82°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb 39°.
+
+28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the plain: a
+fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due southward
+over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until we crossed,
+for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray. Just
+beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
+LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although the
+pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a good
+supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a little dog
+of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it known to us.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 49°;--
+with wet bulb, 41°.
+
+29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
+basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
+which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
+thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
+quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
+Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its
+course, with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries
+apparently larger than itself. All these lapsed into the same
+concatenated line of ponds; at one place, spreading amidst brigalow
+scrub, at another, forming one well-defined deep channel. For the
+formation of ponds, and the retention of water, in so dry a climate, we
+see here something between the ordinary character of rivers, and
+artificial works which man must construct, when population may spread
+into these regions. The fallen timber of the brigalow decays very slowly,
+and is not liable to be burnt, like most other dead wood in open forests,
+because no grass grows amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The
+accumulations of dead logs become clogged with river rack and the deposit
+of floods; to which floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the
+waters into new channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds,
+and completing the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams
+and reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water
+for a longer time than any single river channel could retain, however
+sluggish its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual
+drought, we had found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 3½
+degrees of latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to
+wheel carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very
+favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along
+this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience
+has taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as
+closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus,
+open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond which
+nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go forward
+in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again encamped
+under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting portion of white
+rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it; and that the
+avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the mountain with white
+fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered ravine below, a curious
+new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°;
+at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 82°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissimâ subcanescens,
+foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
+depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA
+Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
+plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
+
+30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
+sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward, and
+goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings before the
+arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them to a spot
+where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite to camp
+LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the plains,
+than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found so
+difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
+eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
+towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
+direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
+the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
+covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once more
+saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with Yuranigh's
+able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed in
+conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
+range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
+the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
+(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
+DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
+ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil
+we saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
+leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
+MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found also
+a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°;
+at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 62°; with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
+sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
+primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari
+subgeminis calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine
+glaberrimo.--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily
+distinguished, besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the
+veins of the leaves, which diverge from the midrib at a very acute
+instead of a right angle.]
+
+[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis,
+foliis subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello
+calyce paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carinâ multo
+brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be seen in
+an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
+
+31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
+morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
+gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
+ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
+we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up
+to its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
+drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
+slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
+and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
+gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
+ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
+CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
+a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
+grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
+strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
+been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
+TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly
+of thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
+appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just forming
+its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
+MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about four
+feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet high,
+with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the beautiful
+TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite flowers.
+
+[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
+sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
+fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
+integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
+superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
+remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
+flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and stamens.
+The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a very strong
+smell of thyme.]
+
+There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
+entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
+eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
+valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
+to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
+grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
+from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs, about
+ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
+
+1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25°. All
+prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
+was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded us
+at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
+clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar country,
+large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing above the
+placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a range to
+us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no stranger
+could have supposed these features to have been only the highest parts of
+such a broken sandstone country as that from which we had just emerged.
+The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they were nowhere level
+but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in white streaks high
+above us, when we first perceived them through the scrubs. These downs
+consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on which grew luxuriantly,
+ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the surface in general was loose,
+resembling that of a field after it had lain long in fallow. Herbs in
+great variety were just emerging from the recently watered earth, and the
+splendid morning did ample justice to the vernal scene. The charm of a
+beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and the songs of many birds
+sounded like the orchestral music before the commencement of any
+theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a place, was quite
+incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost boundless extent
+of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that of China, yet
+still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve, provided by
+nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and industry
+might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
+population.
+
+These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
+contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
+of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
+component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
+beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
+above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
+and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
+wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire. The
+ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a salsolaceous
+soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no geologist has
+yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have produced that
+rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly grew; or these
+wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red sandstone formation. One
+has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;" but this phrase
+admits of no easy application to such cases as these. Fragments of a
+ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles, apparently identical with
+those in the basin of the Darling, in some places accompany these angular
+fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a new ERIOSTEMON allied to E.
+BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby
+EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in
+the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical
+on trees. We encamped on the margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX,
+and about a mile distant from it, our draught oxen being very weak and
+leg-weary. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at
+9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
+obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus
+unifloris tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
+
+[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
+subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
+involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
+
+2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly mentioned.
+We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then made, had been
+much damaged by a flood. The little river was still running, and it was
+cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its sources, beyond
+which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in repairing our bridge,
+so that all things were got across safely. We ascended the undulating
+downs along our old track, and where many curious specimens of trees in
+flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I observed that no entire
+sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing to have been
+compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. Yuranigh brought me
+one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), which so far
+confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the coniferous character of
+Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance of other specimens, I
+am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of that description. I
+left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that the direct
+route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was rather at a
+loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the name of
+Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
+Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
+subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
+therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
+About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which had
+been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
+exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is
+to be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or
+sources are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and
+usually bare of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at
+4 P.M., 78°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest hour." The
+thermometer 31° at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of the magpie
+or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and the rich browns
+and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with its dense grey
+shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in the same state as
+when we left it. No flood had come down the channel of that river. The
+tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the old route, and
+bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is remarkable that in no
+case had they injured or defaced the letters and numerals marked on trees
+at the various camps, nor disturbed our temporary bridges. We cut our way
+through a scrub of brigalow, thus passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and
+XLVI., encamping at a short distance from the latter of these places.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at noon, 74°; at 4 P. M., 75°; at 9, 52°;
+with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the lake,
+had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a green crop
+was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our cattle.
+Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this day,
+proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to be
+left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
+river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before
+they had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
+the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on seeing
+us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
+judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
+with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
+had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
+curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
+instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian
+natives towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some
+of the uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
+behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
+themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
+stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
+them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
+trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
+make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
+still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
+crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on seeing
+us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions before us,
+and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great blaze
+there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody range beyond
+Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued until evening;
+thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous sunset, which
+poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky pinnacles, as I sat
+drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles northward of XLV.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 39°;--
+with wet bulb, 32°.
+
+5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a more
+elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy clouds of
+cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the last effort
+of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be driven much
+farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where this could
+be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged to cross.
+We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which well
+deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, were
+seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
+yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
+position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
+which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, and
+the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
+encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
+excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
+spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
+formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the purple-
+flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the pink-
+flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
+forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
+handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here first
+appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
+small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
+LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the
+foot of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with
+yellow black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree
+fifteen or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of
+ALL. CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high,
+proved to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A.
+CUNNINGHAMII, but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of
+flowers, and everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 P. M., 64°; at 9, 40°;--
+with wet bulb, 31°.
+
+[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis,
+foliolis glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis
+triangularibus glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
+
+[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
+aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
+acutis persistentibus.]
+
+[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
+elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
+subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus,
+spicis elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo
+breviore, ovario villoso.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VII.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
+STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--
+PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER
+NIVE.--ITS COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE
+VICTORIA DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO
+VARIOUS CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE
+RIVER ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST
+POINT OF THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM
+THE SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--
+ASCEND WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE
+PYRAMIDS.--NEW PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
+
+6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the horses
+for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all being
+leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during these
+two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of scenery within
+a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been assiduously
+burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This rendered the
+spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young grass was highly
+relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass remained to be set fire
+to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part of the natives, is
+usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9, 40°;--with wet bulb, 31°.
+
+8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in writing a
+despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed account of
+my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that in the
+event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now to
+accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to leave
+it at this depôt camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us, and a
+fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our intended
+ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky continued
+overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in sufficient
+quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to produce
+dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the 8th, 53°;
+at noon, 55°; at 4 P. M., 57°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°; and at
+sunrise of the 9th, 39°; at noon, 77°; at 4 P.M., 70°; at 9, 52°;--with
+wet bulb, 45°.
+
+10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
+Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant, false
+horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley, along
+our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W., following
+up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This valley led very
+straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three volcanic cones,
+which I had already intersected from various points. The other two I had
+named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three hills formed an
+obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to the north-west,
+and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land might be found to
+form an angle somewhat corresponding with the directions of the two
+shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to the westward of
+such an angle in the range, I might find what had been so long the object
+of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of Carpentaria. We
+reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my former observations as
+far as could be ascertained by the mode of measurement I employed then;
+which was by counting my horse's paces. On ascending the mountain on
+foot, I found a deep chasm still between me and the western summit, which
+was not only the highest, but the only part clear of bushes. A thick and
+very thorny scrub had already so impeded my ascent, that the best portion
+of the afternoon was gone, before I could return to the horses; and I
+resolved, therefore, to continue my ride, and to defer the ascent and
+observation of angles from the summit, until my return from the unknown
+western country, which we were about to explore; the search for water
+that night being an object of too much importance to be longer deferred.
+We, accordingly, passed on by the southward and westward of the mountain,
+following a watercourse, which led first N. W., then north, and next E.
+of N.; to where it at length joined one from the west, up which I turned,
+and continued the search for water until darkness obliged us to halt.
+During that search for water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so
+concealed and covered with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared
+from those following; and yet, strange to say, without either of us being
+in the least hurt. We encamped where there was, at least, good grass;
+but--no water.
+
+11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept, we
+found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well known
+to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after long
+custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we had
+breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
+supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
+some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
+We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
+perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
+rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
+feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were all
+visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The connections
+extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at the head of the
+Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these I was careful
+to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was higher than it,
+and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at its lowest part,
+which bore 26° W. of S., was our next object. We found the range covered
+with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs. On the crest, the
+rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade thermometer stood, at
+noon, at 30° 5' equal to 87°, of Fahrenheit; the height above the sea we
+made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we encountered a scrub of matted
+vines, which hung down like ropes, and pulled some of us off our horses,
+when it happened that any of these ropes were not observed in time in
+riding through the thicket. A very dense forest of young Callitris trees
+next impeded us, and were more formidable than even the vines. The day
+was passed in forcing our way through these various scrubs, the ground
+declining by a gentle slope only. We next found firmer soil underfoot,
+that where the Callitris scrub grew having been sandy, and we saw at
+length, with a feeling of relief, that only brigalow scrub was before us;
+we ascended gravelly hills, came upon a dry water-course, and then on a
+chain of ponds. Near one of these ponds, sate an old woman, beside a
+fire, of course, although the weather was very warm; and a large net,
+used for taking emus, hung on a brigalow bush close by. The men were
+absent, looking for food, as we partly conjectured, for little could
+Yuranigh make out of what she said, besides the names of some rivers, to
+which I could point with the hand. I was surprised to find that here, the
+name for water was "Narran," the name for it in the district of the
+Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the word for water amongst the tribes of
+the Darling is Kalli. That the "Narran" river and swamp are named from
+this language of tribes now dwelling much further northward, seems
+obvious; and, as the natives on the Darling know little of the "Narran"
+or its swamp, it may be inferred that there the migration of native
+tribes has been progressive from south to north; the highest known land
+in Australia being also to the southward of the Darling. The chain of
+ponds, according to the old woman, was named "Cùnno," and ran into the
+"Warreg" which, as she pointed, was evidently the name of the river we
+had formerly traced downwards from near Mount P. P. King. I left the
+"Cùnno," and plunged into the brigalow to the northward, thus crossing a
+slightly elevated range, where we found a little water-course falling
+N.N.W. By following this downwards, we found water in it, as twilight
+grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for the night, in latitude 25°
+S.
+
+[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
+
+12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 59°; our height then above
+the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet. Continuing to follow
+down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a chain of ponds running
+N.E., and these we traced in the contrary direction, or upwards, as far
+as seemed desirable. We struck off from that water-course, first to the
+N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep low ridge of clay
+ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We crossed that low
+ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half beyond, met another
+acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also ascended, and found
+upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree having hard spiky dry
+branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to receive the charge of
+ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which formidable array we
+nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived at the head of a
+rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we attempted in vain to
+pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga," until, seeing a flat
+on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the water-course
+again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction, and contained
+some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river, whose banks were
+thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course of this river was
+W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N., and at the
+junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we watered
+our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills, three
+quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24° 52'
+50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge
+we crossed, was 84°; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3
+P.M., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89°; the
+height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
+
+13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer stood at 38°; the height above
+the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river
+would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
+conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
+commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name; and,
+to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle. Pursuing the
+united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy plains. The air
+was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up, especially where
+the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were MORGANIA GLABRA;
+EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM with the aspect of a
+TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a new scabrous
+HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning by the
+natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry warm
+weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as an
+emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly imprinted
+with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the natives to
+attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the aversion of
+the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle: people
+who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they have
+thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted with
+their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
+these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old
+men and women!
+
+[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
+margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
+patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida,
+foliis oblongis planis longè ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis
+pentameris, calycibus patentim hispidis.]
+
+[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris,
+foliis alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis,
+floribus distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis,
+fructu subgloboso.]
+
+The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
+it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
+After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
+bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were obliged
+to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and laborious day.
+Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite puzzled Yuranigh, for
+we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and tracts they had set fire
+to, where trees still lay smoking.
+
+14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72° of Fahrenheit;
+the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently determined by
+Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid down my
+survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have turned towards
+the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct northerly
+course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank, whence I had
+seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a brigalow range. After
+a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand curve in the river's
+course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found water near the
+spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined, and near
+which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank covered with
+brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding traces of a
+recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at less
+than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL--I mean not
+crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and
+refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs,
+a beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal
+spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a wash
+and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one sentiment
+of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water. Like "a giant
+refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the north-west, and
+passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very gradually, during a
+ride of three miles, to where I at length could discover that the fall
+was in the other direction. At this point, I observed the barometer,
+which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet. Fahrenheit's
+thermometer stood then (5 P.M.) at 86°. The dry channel of a water-course
+had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had also guided us to
+the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the feet of three men
+in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives whose track
+Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were now going in the
+same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the smell of their
+burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning embers which had
+dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was flat, and on it the
+rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky gap (in a ridge) was
+still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set, and not a blade
+of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what was all this to
+the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With eager steps we
+followed a slight channel downwards; found that it descended more rapidly
+than the one by which we had ascended; that it also increased, and we
+were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with young grass, while
+yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected from several broad
+ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot, so opportunely and
+unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy flat by the margin
+of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group of bushes for
+shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with very heavy
+clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain.
+
+15TH SEPTEMBER.--As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards the gap,
+and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld downs
+and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision, bounded on the
+S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by higher ranges; the
+whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in which direction a
+line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to the remotest
+verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the realization of my
+long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N. W. in the heart
+of an open country extending also in that direction. Ulloa's delight at
+the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed mine on this
+occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was impressed at the moment
+have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being allowed to make such a
+discovery. From that rock, the scene was so extensive as to leave no room
+for doubt as to the course of the river, which, thus and there revealed
+to me alone, seemed like a reward direct from Heaven for perseverance,
+and as a compensation for the many sacrifices I had made, in order to
+solve the question as to the interior rivers of Tropical Australia. To an
+European, the prospect of an open country has a double charm in regions
+for the most part covered with primaeval forests, calling up pleasing
+reminiscences of the past, brighter prospects for the future--inspiring a
+sense of freedom, especially when viewed from the back of a good horse:--
+
+"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede, A sword of metal keene--All else
+to noble minds is drosse, All else on earth is meane!"  --OLD SONG.
+
+I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the
+gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse,
+which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open country.
+The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless downs
+appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on emerging
+from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much open
+plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke far in
+the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were inhabitants.
+The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly PANICUM
+LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it, SALSOLOE, and the
+ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed the river downwards,
+the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon as if interminable. This
+river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no sand in its bed, which
+consisted of firm clay, and contained deep hollows, and the beds of long
+reaches, then, however, all dry, while abundance of large UNIO shells lay
+upon the banks, and proved that the drought was not of common occurrence.
+The general course of the river I found to be about W.N.W. true. We
+continued to follow it through its windings all day, which I certainly
+should not have done, but for the sake of water, as our progress
+downwards was thus much retarded. Towards evening, Corporal Graham
+discovered water in a small tributary coming from the S.E., while
+Yuranigh found some also in the main channel, where that tributary fell
+into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this was called, and turned
+our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees in grass half dry,
+half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field to-morrow."
+The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was intense; but during
+the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under heaven's canopy
+and protection.
+
+16TH SEPTEMBER.--The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly formed
+clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to trace, as
+if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine
+regions of earth. At 7 A.M. the temperature was 63°; and (from
+observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to
+be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and plains
+covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right. Beyond it,
+we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in proportion as we
+descended with the river. Some were much broken, and appeared to present
+precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended westward from
+between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range seemed to be an
+offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the river, below the
+supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its character
+altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was, however,
+scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 P.M., at the only hole
+we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA PENDULA formed a
+belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the open plains, and
+many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the rose cockatoo and
+crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and SOLANUM amongst the
+latter. At length, we saw before us, to the westward, bold precipitous
+hills, extending also to the southward of west. A thunder storm came over
+us, and night advancing, we halted without seeing more, for that day, of
+the interesting country before us, and having only water enough for our
+own use, the product of the shower. No pond was found for the horses,
+although we had searched for one, many miles in the bed of the river.
+Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks bore testimony that
+water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it did through the
+finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen.
+
+17TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at seven this morning was 57°; our
+height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us from
+"repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of tomorrow's
+fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had found us unable
+either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to Providence, however, we
+went forward, and found a pond in the river bed, not distant more than
+two miles from where we had slept. In making a cut next through a
+brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the river, in a nearly
+westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and turned again into a
+brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good many miles, N.W.,
+through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain of dead brigalow;
+and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at length, upon open
+downs extending far to the northward. I continued to ride in that
+direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a range of
+flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most westerly
+portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us yesterday.
+They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening country was partly
+low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we were upon. But where
+was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of one appeared nearest
+to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some well-formed hollows
+on that side the downs. Towards that point I therefore shaped my course,
+and there found the river--no longer a chain of dry ponds in brigalow
+scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra trees, with open grassy banks,
+and containing long reaches full of water. White cockatoos shrieked above
+us; ducks floated, or flew about, and columns of smoke began to ascend
+from the woods before us. This was now, indeed, a river, and I lost no
+time in following it downwards. The direction was west; then north-west,
+tolerably straight. Water was abundant in its bed; the breadth was
+considerable, and the channel was well-marked by bold lofty banks. I
+remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan plains, growing here, on sand-islands
+of this river. The grass surpassed any I had ever seen in the colony in
+quality and abundance. The slow flying pelican appeared over our heads,
+and we came to a long broad reach covered with ducks, where the channel
+had all the appearance of a river of the first magnitude. The old mussle
+shells (UNIO) lay in heaps, like cart-loads, all along the banks, but
+still we saw none of the natives. Flames, however, arose from the woods
+beyond the opposite bank, at once in many directions, as if by magic, as
+we advanced. At 3 P.M. Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at
+90°. Towards evening, we saw part of the bed dry, and found it
+continuously so, as night came on. The sun had set, while I still
+anxiously explored the dry recesses of the channel in search of water,
+without much hopes of success, when a wild yell arose from the woods back
+from the channel, which assured us that water was near. Towards that
+quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon found a fine pond in a small ana-
+branch, upon which we immediately halted, and took up our abode there for
+the night. It may seem strange that so small a number could act thus
+unmolested by the native tribes, but our safety consisted chiefly in the
+rapidity of our movements, and their terror of strangers wholly unknown,
+perhaps unheard of, arriving on the backs of huge animals, or centaurs
+whose tramp they had only heard at nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"
+
+----"rustling through the boortrees comin' Wi' eerie sought!"
+
+our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or annoyance
+being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we hoped to
+sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally unexpected by
+natives. Latitude, 24° 34' 30" S.
+
+18TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the temperature of the air was 72°; the height
+of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank for
+some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing clear
+downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the highest
+clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the ranges
+intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the northward
+of the river, whose general direction to the point already fixed had been
+22° W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as far as I could
+judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the southward of the
+river also turned off, extending nearly to the southward. These two
+limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the river so as to leave it
+ample room to turn and wind on either side, amidst its accompanying
+woods, through grassy downs of great extent, obliged me to explore its
+course with closer attention. From another clear hill on these downs, to
+which I next proceeded, I thought I perceived the line of another river
+coming from ranges in the N.E., and expecting it would join that whose
+course we had thus far explored, I proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction
+over open downs towards the line of trees. I found therein a fine pond of
+water, the soil of the downs consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM
+and various SALSOLOE appeared in some parts. My horses being rather
+jaded, I halted rather early here, and laid down my journey, protracting
+also the angles I had observed of the points of distant ranges. Latitude,
+24° 27' 27" S. I found by the barometer that we were already much lower
+than the rivers Salvator and Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the
+Belyando; while we were still remote from the channel we were pursuing.
+
+19TH SEPTEMBER.--The thermometer at 7 A.M. stood at 57°. The height of
+these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has said, that a
+situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where a man should
+hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a sublime
+position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted to
+traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to
+witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a
+man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being, and
+of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable position he
+can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few wants supplied
+almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he falls in with
+water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence alone; and
+this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible, in
+journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man
+seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and
+disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely
+inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may
+venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a
+brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a perfectly
+level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward of west,
+to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible. Bushes
+of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them, we
+crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a
+concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue
+clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation;
+and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on
+which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four
+separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both
+amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I
+might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill was
+visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only downs
+and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant view,
+which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of our river
+appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we found here. In
+that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river, where, in a
+general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels. The grass
+was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate channels
+seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine clear
+downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade thermometer, 37°,
+or 99° of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the shade of a small
+clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the afternoon, three emus
+that had been feeding on the downs came inquisitively forward; curiosity,
+apparently inspiring them with more courage than even the human
+inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds, our bacon had become so
+impalatable that a change of diet was very desirable, and Graham,
+therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the quadruped inspiring more
+confidence in the bird. It was curious to witness the first meeting of
+the large indigenous bird and large exotic quadruped--such strange
+objects to each other! on the wide plains where either of them could
+
+----"overtake the south wind."
+
+One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that evening
+being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not slow in
+seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed. There my
+men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who, although unable to
+eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating emu flesh, although
+he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM, for the use of the
+white men. The channel of the river was still divided here, amongst
+brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight. Thermometer, at 6 P.M.,
+86°. Height above the sea, 758 feet.
+
+20TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 78°. Water appearing to be
+more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its general course
+in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay to the
+eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as belonging to
+another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first encountered a
+great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a rosewood scrub,
+redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we found the deep
+well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward. The bottom was
+rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river also spread into
+branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon open downs. Next
+we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with yarra trees, and
+coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles further on, we crossed
+another coming from N.E., on which, finding a good lagoon, I encamped
+early, that the men might have time to cook for themselves some of the
+emu, and that the horses might also have some sufficient rest. Latitude,
+24° 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 P.M., 86°. Height above the sea, 724
+feet.
+
+21ST SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer at 6 A.M., 63°. I found that the various
+tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater tendency
+westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward of where
+we had passed the night. Its character was the same--a concatenation of
+ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled with water,
+apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of the adjacent
+country. The course next turned considerably to the southward of west,
+while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about westward. I found an
+open plain between these, across which I travelled; until, again meeting
+the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed to turn more to the
+northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours under the shade of
+some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper, and found we were
+making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a very open country. We
+were no longer in doubt about finding water, although in the heart of
+Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon. On proceeding, we passed
+some large huts near the river, which were of a more substantial
+construction, and also on a better plan than those usually set up by the
+aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof had first been
+erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and, thereupon thin square
+portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond of water being near,
+we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the night. At 5 P.M. the
+thermometer was at 82°. Height above the sea, 707 feet.
+
+22D SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 58°. This was no sandybedded
+river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of firm
+clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much novelty,
+that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was nevertheless
+tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and carry them
+amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was curious. One
+plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were others
+resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with white
+turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS. Among the
+grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that formerly seen
+on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA PECTINATA, gathered
+in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst the grasses a
+PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly collected in the
+tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very remarkable new
+species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow panicle, and
+little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river again
+formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the wide
+open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we had
+indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely
+interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our
+journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had
+left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over
+the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with
+their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And
+so we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived
+at the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose
+impetuous floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged
+with drift matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of
+400 yards. The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal
+water lay in ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned
+with brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand
+the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down
+there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad
+a water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just
+below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort
+of a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the
+direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel.
+About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the
+broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican
+and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in
+such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them,
+as to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed
+diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces had,
+at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that,
+although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure
+alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes rose.
+Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole together
+forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two kinds of
+grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass, possessing the
+remarkable property of shooting up green from the old stalk.
+
+[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium
+plumosis, paniculâ pilosâ angustâ interruptâ ramulis inferioribus demum
+refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis
+villosis, foliis......]
+
+The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their
+extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito.
+Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus
+occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found
+with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine
+gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine
+flavoured.
+
+I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked
+navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles,
+beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside
+one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would
+have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on
+a verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El
+Dorado of Australia. At 2 P.M. thermometer 88°. Height above the sea 712
+feet.
+
+23D SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. thermometer 59°. Latitude 24° 2' S. New flowers
+perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their forms and
+structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted I could
+not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our
+provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had
+been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our little
+stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any
+privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed
+half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this
+interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack
+horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we
+threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it
+in portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The
+course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to
+stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the
+river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees
+on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river,
+but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We next
+traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay with
+gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen nowhere
+else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a river
+flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore impetuous
+floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I called it
+the Alice.
+
+As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the westward
+or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely variegated
+with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to the
+horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of this
+kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and water
+in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at 3
+P.M., 90° in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by pigeons, and
+a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous that five were
+killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite, the
+wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no means of
+preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height above the
+sea here, 826 feet.
+
+[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.]
+
+24TH SEPTEMBER.--I continued to seek the river across extensive downs, in
+many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained, apparently as if the
+decay of that species of scrub gave place to open ground. I turned now to
+the S.W., and became anxious to see the river again. At length we came
+upon a creek, which I followed down, first to the S.W. and next
+southerly, until it was time to alight, when we established our bivouac
+by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24° 3' 30" S. Thermometer, at 3
+P.M. 98°. Height above the sea, 688 feet.
+
+25TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer stood at 73°. We ought to have
+been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on for our
+stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without tracing it
+to the furthest accesible point. We still continued, therefore, to follow
+the water-course which had brought us thus far, expecting at every turn
+to find its junction with the river, whose course had obviously turned
+more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a larger tributary from
+the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took a more westerly
+direction than the minor channel which brought us to it. We thus came
+upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very numerous tribe
+of natives, who appeared to have been there very recently, as some of the
+fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and large permanent huts,
+were seen beyond that encampment; and it was plain that we had entered
+the home of a numerous tribe. I should have gladly avoided them at that
+time, had not a sight of the river been indispensable, and the course of
+the creek we were upon, the only certain guide to it. Level plains
+extended along its banks, and I had been disappointed by the appearance
+of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the banks of large lagoons. On
+approaching one of these, loud shrieks of many women and children, and
+the angry voices of men, apprised me that we had, at length, overtaken
+the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come upon them by surprise. "AYA
+MINYÀ!" was vociferated repeatedly, and was understood to mean, "What do
+you want!" (What seek ye in the land of Macgregor!) I steadily adhered to
+my new plan of tactics towards the aborigines, and took not the slightest
+notice of them, but steadily rode forward, according to my compass
+bearing. On looking back for my men, I saw one beckoning me to return. He
+had observed two natives, with spears and clubs, hide themselves behind a
+bush in the direction in which I was advancing. On my halting, they stole
+away, and, when a little further on, I perceived an old white-haired
+woman before me, on seeing whom I turned slightly to one side, that we
+might not frighten her or provoke the tribe. The whole party seemed to
+have been amusing themselves in the water during the noon-day heat, which
+was excessive; and the cool shades around the lagoon looked most
+luxuriant. Our position, on the contrary, was anything but enviable. With
+jaded horses scarcely able to lift a leg, amongst so many natives, whose
+language was incomprehensible, even to Yuranigh. I asked him whether we
+might not come to a parley with them, and see if they could understand
+him. His answer was brief; and, without turning even his head once to
+look at them:--"You go on!" which advice, quite according with my own
+notions, founded on experience, I willingly went on. Even there, in the
+heart of the interior, on a river utterly unheard of by white men, an
+iron tomahawk glittered on high in the hand of a chief, having a very
+long handle to it. The anxious care of the females to carry off their
+children seemed the most agreeable feature in the scene, and they had a
+mode of carrying them on the haunch, which was different from anything I
+had seen. Some had been digging in the mud for worms, others searching
+for freshwater muscles; and if the whole could have been witnessed
+unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst the aborigines had
+been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed a strange attitude,
+which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the right knee bent, the
+left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but grasping clubs; the left
+arm raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya, aya, minyà!" they
+continually shouted; and well might they ask what we wanted! Hoping they
+would believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two old pack-horses in
+counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire to let them know us
+more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at length, to hear their
+"Aya minyàs" grow fainter, and that we were leaving them behind. About
+five miles further south, the perfume from the liliaceous banks of the
+river was the first indication of its vicinity. We found it full 400
+yards broad, presenting its usual characteristics,--several separate
+channels and ponds of water; there, according to the barometer, the
+height above the sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at 3 P. M., in
+the shade, 99° of Fahrenheit. We watered our horses, crossed, and plunged
+into the brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a march upon the noisy
+tribe; who, by that time, probably were sending to call in their hunting
+parties, that they might follow our track. Their mode of killing a
+kangaroo may best exemplify their tactics towards strangers; whose path
+in the same manner could be followed by day, and sat down beside at
+night, to be again tracked in the morning, until the object of pursuit
+could be overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew on a rising ground
+of sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I saw the course of
+the river running nearly northward. Here, then, I turned towards the east
+to travel home by ascending the left bank, with the intention to cut off
+the great sweep which the river described, as we had found on tracing it
+down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any tributaries it might
+receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one containing a fine lagoon,
+and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most firmly objected to our
+sitting down close by the water, saying we might there be too easily
+speared by the wild natives who were then, probably, on our track; but he
+did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain adjacent, one man
+keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's ponds. Latitude, 24°
+19' 2" S.
+
+26TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A. M. the thermometer stood at 61°. My horse was
+quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's
+journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed
+through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was
+grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of
+mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,--the fragments being much
+of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting, for the
+most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six miles, we
+saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that the left
+bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to the
+northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly
+water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped;
+resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most
+thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24° 12' 37" S.
+Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 92°.
+
+27TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 68°. On laying down my work on
+paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way homewards,
+our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from us, and
+distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E.
+passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it
+should be required.
+
+It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants,
+the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the
+natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a
+few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire,
+each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the
+head reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and
+thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their
+occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no
+respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for
+washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in
+mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint that
+clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that
+would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would
+probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that
+sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do
+with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children
+of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but
+that the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the
+savages of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men
+on their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the
+naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean
+tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of
+similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only
+impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or
+however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What,
+then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to
+inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated
+man despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow.
+Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition
+of knowledge--the gratification of mind--the raptures of the poet, or the
+delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst
+civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that
+the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or
+gold as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in
+lofty minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is
+worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be
+said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my
+reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while
+protected from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how
+long these dreams under it would continue undisturbed.
+
+"The mind is its own place, and in itself Can make a heaven of hell: a
+hell of heaven!"
+
+Thermometer, at 6 P. M., 90°.
+
+28TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 63°. The horses were much
+refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our journey
+in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs, meeting no
+impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches of a
+considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this day,
+besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according to
+its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and encamped
+on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had
+previously crossed.
+
+This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range
+to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and
+so determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature,
+Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold summit
+forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained data
+sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of the
+river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges.
+The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like
+sandstone. At 6 P.M., the temperature was 81°.
+
+29TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 A.M., the thermometer was 59°. Re-crossing the
+river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th
+September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We
+crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus identifying
+it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered with grass,
+and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange flowers, which
+grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the spot I sought,
+and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the sun having
+reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had been boiled
+before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon, in such warm
+weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have then been very
+good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had out-manoeuvred the
+natives, the weather had been so hot that, nevertheless, we could not
+"save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 P.M., 83°.
+
+30TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 67°. I found, by my map, that I
+might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of 18th
+September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the downs.
+We accordingly set out on the bearing of 5½° S. of E., and hit the spot
+exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so as to afford
+some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly, passed
+through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice crossed
+a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The water-
+course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of fine firm
+clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the
+waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of the
+country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river we
+had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from
+others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be
+rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to
+carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run.
+
+1ST OCTOBER.--Our track back across the downs, brought again into view
+the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its
+salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head of
+the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above the
+trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the
+salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first
+advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river
+this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded
+with the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a
+distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we
+at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes
+came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the
+horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our
+former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head,
+so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained
+the bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA.
+
+But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives
+could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more
+willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve
+a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into
+tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,--a river
+leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE
+SPICES GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from
+Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's providence,
+in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus affording
+access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon peopled
+by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal, and
+loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious
+sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the plants
+along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which lay
+about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen
+elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a
+half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA,
+resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr.
+Bentham.[*] We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to
+make the tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset;
+the moon was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for
+water, until we again fell in with our former track, near the place where
+we had watered our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On
+hastening to the pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days
+had dried it up, and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most
+unpleasant privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost
+vertical sun. The river must receive a great addition below this branch
+from the Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we
+had this day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on
+our left, or to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up
+the waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so
+effectually, that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus
+becoming open downs.
+
+[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus,
+phyllodiis linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis
+enervibus, glandulâ prope basin immersâ, pedunculis glaberrimis
+gracilibus racemosis capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.]
+
+2D OCTOBER.--At 6 A.M. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59°. The
+height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I sent
+Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to contain
+water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods,
+welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the
+spot, where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our
+wants. For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all
+that was required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less
+assiduously, although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it
+under such circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost
+indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former
+bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour.
+Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts
+were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any
+of them.
+
+3D OCTOBER.--Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were again
+seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus
+afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their
+hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham
+succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped. He
+then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards us,
+when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark and
+number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of future
+reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again, into
+this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this
+bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight
+course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route
+along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us
+back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the
+figures 72.
+
+4TH OCTOBER.--We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the temperature, at
+9 A.M., was 79°,) and alighted by the pond at the junction of the Nivelle
+and Nive; near where we had passed the night of the 12th September. This
+day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so characteristic of sandy soils,
+but of which we had not observed a single specimen in the extensive
+country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree.
+
+5TH OCTOBER.--Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass before
+me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost the
+first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted,
+and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the
+same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a
+position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head
+erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The
+deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the
+fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and
+did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted
+thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him, and
+was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a charge
+of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be despatched.
+This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly, about six
+feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before known any
+Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly brought the
+attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former circuitous route
+when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our former bivouac at an
+early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds, formerly full of good
+water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I proceeded to cross the
+scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction towards Mount Pluto. But
+some magnetic influence so deranged my compass, that, on reaching the
+crest of the range, I found that mountain bore nearly east instead of N.
+E. N. I saw three of my fixed points, however, by which, with my pocket
+sextant, I could ascertain our true position, which proved to be very
+wide of my intended course. It was, like many other accidental
+frustrations of my plans in this journey, an aberration that did us good,
+for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub formerly passed through, and
+also a rocky part of the range. We next descended into a valley in which,
+after following down a dry watercourse two miles, we found a fine pond of
+water, exactly as the sun was setting. This day I had shot a curious
+bird, somewhat resembling a small turkey, in a tree. The feathers were
+black; the head was bare and red. This fowl was apparently of the
+galinaceous tribe. The flesh was delicious, and afforded a most timely
+dinner to the party. A numerous body of natives had followed our former
+track across the rocky ranges we traversed this day, as appeared by their
+foot-marks, and Yuranigh also discovered, in the same manner, that three
+natives had this morning preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw
+none of these denizens of the woods.
+
+6TH OCTOBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A. M., 48°. Height above the sea, 696
+feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the Pyramids;
+but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount Pluto, from
+which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked this
+bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively marked,
+71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series from
+LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando.
+
+The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and
+plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and
+myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced at
+the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I
+found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly passed
+the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses, the
+grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass had
+been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest
+sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above
+the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the
+mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much
+Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although
+well covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W.
+side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct
+the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides.
+The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I passed
+an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount Owen and
+Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the East, and
+some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just visible
+across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with Mount
+Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In the S.
+W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate westward, in
+abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as far as known),
+the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters. What that country
+is, was a most interesting point, which I was very reluctant to leave
+still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the westward of this trio,
+which thus seem to mark the place where the upheaving forces have most
+affected the interior structure of Australia. The temperature on Mount
+Pluto, at noon, was 90°; and the elevation above the sea, 2420 feet.
+
+On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck into
+the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although it
+was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward of Mount
+Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke in the
+direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the party left
+there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud cheers.
+All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in high
+condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some
+curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so
+as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked green
+and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most refreshing home
+both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we had almost
+constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected specimens of
+XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple INDIGOFERA
+AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel, a hairy
+shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA PULCHELLA
+Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found on the rocky ground
+near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the summits of the
+pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills, were gathered,
+AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though, almost leafless herb,
+with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles below the camp a
+species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp., was found; and
+among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to, but probably
+distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn.
+
+The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed a
+shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having much
+resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII grew
+about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was seen on the
+sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there also grew
+the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small shrub six
+feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS,
+also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only two feet
+high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet high in
+similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still abundant on the
+sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the POMAX HIRTA, a plant six
+inches high.
+
+[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis
+impunctatis brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus
+leviter revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis
+trifloris folio brevioribus.--Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE.
+Detected by Fraser on Mount Lindsay.]
+
+At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA
+formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a
+small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer
+specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA
+ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the
+SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a
+shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy
+leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its
+silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of
+twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the
+beautiful LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer
+state, near Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered
+ravines amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with
+its four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high. On
+the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved,
+glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green
+flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in
+flower). The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species
+of ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage,
+relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of
+Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that genus,
+according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which proved to
+be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the precipices[*]; a
+new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new RUTIDOSIS, a tall
+herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved GREVILLEA, with
+yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with inconspicuous
+flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of Comesperm,
+about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or downy stems; it
+was allied to C. RETUSA.[******]
+
+[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis
+subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis
+falcatoellipticis v. oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis
+minute 1-2- glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo
+longioribus, capitulis multifloris tomentosis.--Near A. CALEYI and A.
+VESTITA. Phyllodia from an inch and a half to two inches long, half an
+inch broad, resembling much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.]
+
+[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis
+cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis axillaribus
+terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem foliosam magis minusve
+congestis.]
+
+[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis
+remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis
+longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.--A widely
+distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus
+(R. HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.]
+
+[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis,
+foliis rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis
+glabris marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis
+perianthiisque sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis,
+stylis glabris, folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.]
+
+[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis
+apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque
+glandulosis.--In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below.
+The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved
+outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA.
+W. I. H.]
+
+[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus
+pubescentibus glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis
+terminalibus, bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.]
+
+On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants
+which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from
+three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a
+small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet
+high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES,
+Desf.[***]; a downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner
+truncated leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the
+mountain, grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but
+with the stature of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or
+eight feet high.[*]
+
+[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis
+sphacelatoapiculatis molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe
+attenuatis uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus
+bracteisque sericeis.]
+
+[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis
+puberula, foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-
+oblongis spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis
+pluriesve longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.]
+
+[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus
+masculis triandris.]
+
+[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa, foliis
+brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis
+tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.]
+
+[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis
+erectosubincurvis longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti
+subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis
+brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix
+basi cohaerentibus.--Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are
+five, six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA.
+It differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.]
+
+[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime
+linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris
+subtus albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis,
+ovariis semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo
+glabro.--Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently
+purple.]
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII.
+
+SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--ASCENT
+OF MOUNT FARADAY.--RETURN TO THE WARREGO.--A NATIVE OLD MAN.--PASS BY
+MOUNT OWEN.--THE MARANOÀ.--RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.--ITS TRIBUTARIES.--
+NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.--POSSESSION CREEK.--A HORSE KILLED BY ACCIDENT.--
+APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.--FIND ALL WELL THERE.--MANY PLANTS
+FOUND THERE.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.--RIDE TO MOUNT
+SOWERBY.--FOSSILS FOUND THERE.----THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPÔT
+CAMP.--TRACE THE MARANÒA DOWNWARDS.--OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--REQUISITE PONDS.--REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.--TRACES
+OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.--THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT ST.
+GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A DIRECT
+LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.
+
+7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.--THESE two days were devoted to the completion of my
+maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the birds seen on the
+Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I had enough to do
+in my tent, although the heat was intense.
+
+9TH OCTOBER.--Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles, to
+take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined the
+sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious
+organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my
+absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone
+strata, and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of
+sandstone underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men
+were on very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be
+disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before
+encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly
+overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the
+heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was evidently
+discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain commenced to
+fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during four hours. Such
+a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I could not be so
+vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our benefit alone, I
+felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the cavernous hill
+the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of umbelliferous
+plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of the COMESPERMA
+SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind observed in September,
+it did not grow above one foot high. A small shrub grew on the rocks, a
+pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A Cunn. (from Port Essington
+and Melville Island); but the branches, with their leaves, are more
+stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker supposes it to be a new
+species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved plant, with long
+branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which Professor de Vriese
+has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural order of Goodeniads, and
+which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*] Thermometer, meter, at sunrise,
+60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae
+quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque auriculato-
+crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne appendice
+proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes, cohaerentes.
+Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium uniovulatum; stylus
+inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in nuce solitarium.
+
+Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho,
+itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero
+geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia
+Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus
+characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum generibus
+huc usque cognitis, diversa.
+
+L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis,
+petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide
+viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia
+spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi
+bracteolatis, corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis;
+paracorollis nigrescentibus.
+
+Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in Nova-
+Hollandia subtropica.
+
+Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII
+de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est
+teres. Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 1½ cent. lata,
+petiolata, petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere ½ cent.
+longo, integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata,
+fere alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-
+lanceolatae, utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere
+10-15 cent. longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi
+communes 5-10 cent. longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores
+alterni, sessiles, bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi,
+limbis obsoletis; corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis,
+externe medio calycis instar hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis
+corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere hiantibus, interiori mediaeque
+loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera, filiformia, antherae his
+continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe.--DE VRIESE.]
+
+10TH OCTOBER.--We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in fine
+condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the
+reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and
+weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did not
+think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer
+sometimes above 100°, and therefore I was more desirous to retire from
+it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the summit
+of Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my map. Mr.
+Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects, while I
+ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above the sea.
+The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS ELATIOR,
+PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a villous
+form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow,
+closepressed leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the
+crater being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the
+summit. On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had
+arrived there at 3 P. M., the distance travelled comprising two former
+days' journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none
+had been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now
+beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its panicles
+of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four feet high,
+was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy variety of
+LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open ground; the
+ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open forest we
+found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA, a spiny-
+leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the EUPHORBIA
+EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr. Stephenson and
+I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that we only reached
+the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 75°; at 4 P.
+M., 82; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis
+linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis
+nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus
+albopubescentibus.--Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves,
+which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and
+in the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a
+broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.]
+
+[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus
+patentibus vestitis. G. B.]
+
+[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25
+obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis,
+racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus
+ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.]
+
+[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis
+segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis
+pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis
+subtuberculatis.]
+
+[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis
+fastigiatis foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris,
+capsulis globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.--Collected by Allan
+Cunningham in Dirk Hartog's island.]
+
+11TH OCTOBER.--Following the chord of the arc described by our journeys
+of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warregò, I made the
+furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing
+through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us
+here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a
+few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at
+noon, 80°; at 4 P. M. 88°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+12TH OCTOBER.--This day we also turned two former days' journeys into
+one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 P. M., the ponds at the
+intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains had
+left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our horses on
+the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of the
+HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the scales of
+the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA, occurred in
+the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after we set out in
+the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley towards us,
+without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not until he
+had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran up
+amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop, when
+repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small bag on
+his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was grey but
+very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully frightened,
+which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained from him some
+information about the ultimate course of the Warrego, etc. We found water
+in one of the rocky ponds near our former encampment, but others in which
+some had formerly been found, were dry, and I was not without some doubt
+about finding water, on our way back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 42°; at noon, 87°; at 4 P. M., 96°; at 9, 78°;--with wet bulb,
+60°.
+
+13TH OCTOBER.--The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79° here, where
+in June last it had been as low as 7°. The sky had been clouded, but the
+morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in passing amongst the
+sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount Owen the day became
+very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On Mount Owen Mr.
+Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow flowers[*], and the
+SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink flowers. We took up our
+old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest of water. The ponds
+formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a deep one in the solid
+rock, containing enough for months. It was inaccessible to horses, but
+with a bucket we watered both these and the bullocks. The mercurial
+column was low, the sky became overcast, and a slight shower raised our
+hopes that at length rain might fall in sufficient quantity to relieve us
+from the difficulty about water, in returning towards Mr. Kennedy's camp.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 79°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 64°;--
+with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis
+reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo
+longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo
+brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.--Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA,
+but of the same form.]
+
+14TH OCTOBER.--During the night several smart showers fell, and at
+daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather
+heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our
+former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the
+Maranòa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the
+large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th
+June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it
+might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent
+supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 60°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P. M., 66°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb,
+48°.
+
+15TH OCTOBER.--Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was cold,
+the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The morning
+presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather being
+rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the men
+dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at first
+endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its
+course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that
+I left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former
+track. We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old
+track at a convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the
+camp of 15th June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had
+cleared up, and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing
+from S.E. On the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or
+Australian form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran
+before Mr. Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little
+bush at the foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like
+a hare, and left a similar track. It was about the size of a small
+rabbit. The death of our dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and
+drought, had been a very serious loss to us, as we found on many
+occasions like this; and where kangaroos, of apparently rare species,
+escaped from us from our having no dogs. We were, also, from want of such
+dogs, much more exposed to attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9, 57°;--
+with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+16TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze from
+east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little
+river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher ground
+grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four feet high.
+At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river beside
+that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and, early in
+the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next camp at
+Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry; but, on
+following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction with the
+Maranòa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin of water
+at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low trailing
+bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of a
+European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an entire-
+leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS BRACHIATUS,
+with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground near the
+river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the men eagerly
+asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern NICOTIANA
+SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb,
+42°. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.)
+
+17TH OCTOBER.--The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point this
+morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In crossing
+Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent natives.
+From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII, where we arrived
+early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I followed the dry
+channel down to its junction, and found the Maranòa full of water; this
+point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We had this day
+passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also groves of the
+ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed drooping, from the
+want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing purposes. We saw,
+this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry forest land; and the
+purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA SPECTABILIS formed a
+spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA LEIOCARPA, and
+CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new MYRIOGYNE[*], and a
+small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt, glaueous leaves,
+tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an orange, proved
+to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**]
+
+[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti,
+caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis
+punctatis, capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.--Very different
+from any described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.]
+
+[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis
+crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris
+dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.]
+
+It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the
+brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be described.
+If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he knows.
+
+The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in
+seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may
+be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a
+precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the
+river. One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which,
+falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much
+hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man,
+leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to
+particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been enforced
+by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32°; at noon, 78°;
+at 4 P.M., 79°; at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 45°.
+
+18TH OCTOBER.--The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and apparently
+dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the creek. This
+loss, when we were so near our depôt camp, was much to be regretted, as
+we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and horse, after an
+absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days. We saw not a
+single native about the woods or the river, and were, therefore, the more
+anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives had agreed at the depôt
+camp, now within a day's ride of us. We continued to follow our former
+track to Camp XXXI, and it may be remarked, to their credit, that the
+aborigines had not attempted to deface any of these marked trees. It
+might have occurred, even to them, that such marks were preparatory to
+the advent of more white men into their country. The fine, deep reaches
+in the river, looked still full and unfailing; and a short journey to-
+morrow would take us to the camp of the rest of the party. We this day
+found a little jasmine in flower, of which Mr. Stephenson had formerly
+collected the seeds. It was white, not more than a foot high, with
+solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful fragrance, and it grew in
+the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with pods, which the
+natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker to be the
+BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of Cunn. Here was
+picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the genus PIMELEA,
+with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and by the river we
+found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS.
+
+[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis
+sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis
+longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.]
+
+[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus
+pilis paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.]
+
+The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and a half
+had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long time
+to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained undisturbed,
+although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by savages.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 86°; at 9, 64°;--
+with wet bulb, 48°.
+
+19TH OCTOBER.--The party was early in motion along the old track. Leaving
+the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country so as to
+hit the track again within a few miles of the depôt camp. Old tracks of
+cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE, were the
+first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we see any
+thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging the
+river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even
+recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they see
+us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle.
+Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the cliffs,
+while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men heartily
+responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and was the first
+to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party were well;
+that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the aborigines had
+never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up; a storehouse had
+also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and contained lettuce,
+radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole establishment evinced the
+good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale, the storekeeper, had
+collected many birds and plants, and had also been careful of the stores.
+The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown very much, and seemed
+a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse Mr. Kennedy had had
+with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my instructions to him, was
+curiously characteristic of the tact and originality of this singular
+race. On one occasion, when on being informed that natives were near, he
+had hastened to meet them, taking little Dicky with him, he found
+remaining only a female and her mother, a remarkably old woman, who had
+before concealed herself among the reeds. The daughter on his approach
+sung a beautiful song, rapidly running through the whole gammut. Then
+bowing her head, she presented the back of it to him, and placing her
+stone-tomahawk in his hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the
+tomahawk on the ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he
+prevailed on the mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was
+much more AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to
+denounce the white men;--her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if
+prophetic of the advent of another race, and the certain failure of her
+own.
+
+The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged
+parent, playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully
+protruding lip. Mr. Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the
+downward course of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point
+also, that the river passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she
+named, and even the Culgòa: she seemed to say the name of that locality
+was "Mundì." Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger
+wore, by way of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac,
+suspended by a cord from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the
+daughter, with a graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to
+the stranger, waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy
+and Dicky immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy
+Dicky away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:--"Sunday,
+26th July. Prayers were read at 11 A.M., after which, having been told by
+Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a
+native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky
+than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what
+information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I
+had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the
+natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first
+object that caught my eye was the bait--a gin, dancing before some
+admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by
+great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were
+gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him
+Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its
+general course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our
+impression was that he called it Bàlun. With respect to its course, he
+plainly said that it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the
+direction of that river and then following with his hand, the various
+windings of this branch; repeating the while some word implying 'walk,
+walk,' and ending with 'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains
+Bindàngo and Bindyègo. After this conversation he took some fat, which he
+appeared to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing
+it, and then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him,
+and (as Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men,
+who were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they
+obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite
+direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and
+disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking
+back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our
+tents, and that no white man should go to his camp."
+
+It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at
+most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the
+river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so
+long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it,
+as our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale,
+the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of
+the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August, plants
+had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had been found
+in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook. EURYBIOPSIS
+MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA; GOODENIA
+CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety of BORONIA
+BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the leaves simply
+pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new species of EURYBIA
+and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA? with the habit of
+Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose LEUCOPOGON; a
+species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was covered with
+wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA, apparently the
+same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling, but taller and
+less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed; SWAINSONA
+CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES
+DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with
+unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both
+perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM,
+with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves
+nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM,
+closely resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle
+of St. Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the
+Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****]
+A beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****]
+A new LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA
+VIRGATA (Hook. MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new
+DODONOEA in the way of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender
+flower stalks.[*********]
+
+[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis
+rigidis apice nudis, spicâ compositâ laxâ tenui villosâ, glumis pilosis,
+paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta
+ligulam villosis.]
+
+[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis
+elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis
+crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin,
+racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis
+multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis,
+ovario tomentoso.--Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten
+inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.]
+
+[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus
+radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longè
+pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.]
+
+[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis
+linearioblongis pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus
+paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris,
+antherarum calcare longiore loculum superante.--The foliage and flowers
+look at first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN
+EUPHRASIOE. The leaves are about three lines long.]
+
+[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis
+angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.--Young
+buds rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre
+having a slight tinge of purple.]
+
+[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis
+membranaceis oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus
+villosisve, calycibus subsessilibus villosis.]
+
+[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis
+patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis
+crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio
+triplo longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.]
+
+[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-
+tomentosis, foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra
+pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis
+fulvescentibus, stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis
+axillaribus unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo
+longioribus.]
+
+[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis
+elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore,
+pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis
+rotundatis.]
+
+In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS
+SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES
+LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.;
+CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with
+yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader
+haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA
+OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub
+with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of
+SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence;
+SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA;
+LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A.
+HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both
+sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river
+Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct
+from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill.
+PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf,
+herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A
+PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS;
+PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS, R.
+Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA; XEROTES
+LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, R. Br.
+GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it: exactly the same
+species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but
+smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS; BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA,
+apparently new. A new and fine species of MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved
+species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA
+CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM, with conical flower-
+heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple flowers.[******] A new
+species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******] Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 46°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb,
+47°.
+
+[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis,
+foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis
+sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis,
+corolla calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.--Near M. AUSTRALIS
+Br., but the leaves broader and flowers larger.]
+
+[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis
+rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis
+glandulosi glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato,
+antherarum calcaribus loculo brevioribus.--Foliage nearly that of P.
+RHOMBEA. Flowers much larger.]
+
+[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis
+13- 15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice
+paucifloris, legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.--A low plant with
+much the habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller
+than in S. CORONILLOEFOLIA.]
+
+[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis,
+foliis angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos
+breves solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra
+medium inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario
+parvo globoso lanato.]
+
+[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis
+ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spicâ
+conicâ, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosâ.]
+
+[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue
+dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve
+obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris
+solitariis folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-
+fido calycem 5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.--This species was
+also found by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple,
+sometimes yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable,
+monophyllous, broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the
+calyx.--W. J. H.]
+
+[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis
+ovalioblongis sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis
+pubescentibus, pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in
+pedunculo brevissimo solitariis geminisve.]
+
+20TH OCTOBER.--It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the
+blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the
+horses. I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles
+eastward of the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The
+hill consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were
+imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt wood,
+and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of wood, young
+shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire; showing the
+black scarified parts, and those left untouched or unscarified, very
+plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn, and were full
+of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed to the sun. These
+specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer parts came off in
+soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant, although they
+felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather isolated,
+but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's Pass,
+and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which forms a
+nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this hill,
+to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The
+weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount Sowerby;
+the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and amongst the
+grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO, perhaps not distinct
+from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 56°; 4
+P.M., 87°; at 9, 67°; with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+21ST OCTOBER.--I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to which I
+had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle from it on
+Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show him many of
+the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was about to lay
+down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land, extending from
+the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about twelve miles.
+On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little PTEROSTYLIS,
+quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a new
+KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious new
+form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a new
+JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short
+axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley
+after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet
+flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the
+LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a
+smallflowered species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA
+PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4, P.M., 84°; at
+9, 65° with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis,
+vaginis scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli
+laminâ ovato-lineari obtusâ canaliculatâ supra pilis (luteis) articulatis
+crinitâ.]
+
+[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve
+mucronulatis utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-
+lanceolatis acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris
+petiolo multo longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.--Flowers considerably
+smaller than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.]
+
+[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris
+margine spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spicâ cylindraceâ
+distichâ secundâ, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente,
+paleae inferioris dorso lanatae aristâ rectâ glumâ mucronatâ multinervi
+longiore.]
+
+[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus
+linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus
+subsessilibus foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus
+subtruncatis 5-dentatis, corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.]
+
+22D OCTOBER.--The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the natives,
+about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which, even on
+foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from the camp),
+and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES PEELII had,
+at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this river
+was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first
+followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy about.
+By following this down, the probability that we should find water seemed
+greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left behind
+some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water remaining,
+especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I therefore
+determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its course. We
+left the depôt camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging cliffs on
+the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The camp we left,
+namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depôt camp," will be found a
+valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first squatter coming
+this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the natives few and
+inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it very
+complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had become
+slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even, indeed,
+perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had fallen
+two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches
+lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was
+perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party,
+and encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly
+crossed by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats
+by the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became
+darkgreen not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not
+depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive
+as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with
+them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the
+grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of
+bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr.
+Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that
+the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net
+untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at
+9, 70°; with wet bulb, 56°. Height above the sea, 1185 feet (Camp 76).
+
+23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
+drays, which only took place at ½ past 11, A.M. The cattle were found to
+be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
+Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
+Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
+directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
+rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
+DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid,
+with a denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
+(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
+were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at
+noon, 91°; at 4 P. M., 93°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
+ovatiscordatis acutis argutè crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
+pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
+calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J. Backhouse
+MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive range; having
+been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane River by Fraser
+and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All. Cunningham.]
+
+[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
+Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i. p.
+147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
+
+24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered upon
+an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank of the
+river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south. The
+cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
+plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
+twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
+whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
+route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
+higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not then
+suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course was so
+favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of these
+extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered as
+they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
+open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
+downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
+remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
+camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this
+was numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
+surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they
+will not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also
+enable the land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map
+of the country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the
+afternoon, and the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a
+clear starry sky, at 9 P. M., admitted of our observations as usual.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 85°; at 4 P. M., 83°; at 9, 58°;--
+with wet bulb, 47°. Height above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.)
+
+[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
+integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
+terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
+broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
+and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20
+feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
+
+25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I had
+perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
+or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
+ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
+approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
+contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
+brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
+eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
+extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
+east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped
+after a journey of 10 1/3 miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
+south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
+with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our former
+route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
+neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
+country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at
+noon, 81°; at 4 P. M., 94°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height above
+the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
+
+26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranòa, about a mile from our
+camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its course
+throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
+these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranòa on
+our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
+pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20° E. of S.
+At length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N.
+W., full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed
+the main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of
+broad blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of
+the Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous
+ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land.
+Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the
+river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the
+grass was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered
+over the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of
+whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed of
+the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish
+(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in
+the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings,
+showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes
+continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such
+circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones,
+some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the
+nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and
+made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted
+wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or
+moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I could
+not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P. M.,
+93°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
+
+27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
+found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
+islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course,
+and contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the
+bush was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she
+had ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us
+without any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-
+forward course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the
+name of the river; to which question she replied, in his own language,
+"The name of that water is Maranòa:" thus confirming the name we had
+already understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It
+proved the accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first
+communicated to him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The
+gin appeared to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female
+wore no sort of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal
+who may have been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling
+about fourteen miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and
+encamped beside it. Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 68°; at 4 P.
+M., 95°; at 9, 77°;--wet bulb, 65°. Height above the sea, 832 feet.
+(Camp 80.)
+
+[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-
+ovatis trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-
+serratis, subtus bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet
+high. Flowers scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan
+river.]
+
+28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I most
+willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
+sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
+presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
+woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
+characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
+their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees;
+have half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like
+the willow, the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and
+I was informed by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives
+call it "Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in
+waterholes. They are too honest and fair in their fights to think of
+poisoning their weapons. The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly
+characteristic of its deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline
+resembling Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,--
+
+--"who dwelt about the very gates of death, Pale misery had worn him to
+the bones."
+
+Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 A. M., after which we had a
+cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
+for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
+dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 P. M., 76°; at 9, 60°;--wet bulb, 51°.
+
+29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so much
+ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to bullocks
+or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter want
+of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country was
+open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
+reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and
+drivers, had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and
+measuring twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this
+seemed only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain
+what was beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards.
+We found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
+main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
+to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped. We
+discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
+Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and covered
+with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face being
+rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan; for
+which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling those
+made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on this
+shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
+the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
+these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed
+for war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon,
+68°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 49°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
+
+30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the dry
+channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of our
+former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of water
+was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which was by
+following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush would
+allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while we
+proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having halted the
+small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with Yuranigh, but
+all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a part of the sandy
+bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough he thrust in, that
+there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I returned,
+determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock teams had
+also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that Drysdale,
+having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had been led to
+the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the cattle had
+been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding water the dog
+was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We had come about
+fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on the map. On doing
+this, I found we had at length attained a point from whence, in case of
+necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if no water were found
+in the country intervening, the direct distance being under forty miles.
+During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found, higher up than the
+first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then to proceed
+prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the Balonne,
+but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would oblige us to
+go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P. M., 78°;
+at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they found a dry
+sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my first ride
+from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I was myself
+engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 33°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P. M., 84°; at 9, 51°--wet bulb, 43°.
+Height above the sea, 882 feet.
+
+1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose beside
+Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded. After
+travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of inundation,
+and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for water, Yuranigh
+found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I encamped,
+resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be traversed in
+uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found rocky ridges on
+the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives in the
+woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the aspect of
+drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral country,
+traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I think this
+want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in that back
+country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance, the Cogoon.
+
+2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward, prepared
+to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water until we
+arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we were to
+traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the country
+appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel of the
+river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
+sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
+formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
+north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
+This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
+along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranòa. The
+water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line along
+the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
+country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranòa, a supply
+would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
+(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
+straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27° 31' 37" S., we
+again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P. M., 79°; at 9, 63°;
+--with wet bulb, 61°. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet.
+
+3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as I had
+determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
+Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles
+above that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through
+much open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris
+always appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length,
+plains again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them,
+after travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line,
+running north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on
+towards the main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from
+it, so that we were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a
+half, after a journey, with carts, of 26½ miles. Here occurred the only
+Epiphyte observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts
+of trees in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of
+Brown. One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long.
+The fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than
+usual, at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an
+inconspicuous weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA
+TRICHOSTACHYA was there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a
+woolly. ANDROPOGON, which appeared not to be distinct from the A.
+BOMBYCINUS. In the open forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA
+OCCIDENTALIS, and on the plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new
+CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and a creeping plant, with yellow flowers,
+since found to be a new species of GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+51°; at noon, 85°; at 4 P.M., 86°; at 9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height
+above the sea, 819 feet.
+
+[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
+dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
+corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a
+distinct genus.]
+
+[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
+longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
+axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido,
+laciniis lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava,
+labio superiore fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio
+ciliato; flagellis folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula
+prismatica, biloculari; seminibus marginatis compressis; flagellis
+floriferis; floribus in axilla folii ovatorotundati, auriculati,
+subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10
+cent. longa, 1½-2 cent. lata, apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum
+attenuata, subdecurrentia, utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia
+flagellorum bracteiformia, ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere
+auriculata, alterutra auricula multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum
+illarum axillis, reliquis multo minoribus neque ad normam perfectis,
+brevius pedunculatis. Affinis species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.]
+
+4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the satisfaction
+soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the majestic Balonne.
+This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames at Richmond; its
+banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and the merry notes of
+numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering appearance;
+especially to us who were again upon a route connected with home, and at
+a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen that route.
+We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey, of the lower
+Maranòa, a river which had brought us in a very straight direction back
+to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established a well
+watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in the
+more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark is
+intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranòa x. being
+marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
+cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
+felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled
+districts, and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during
+seven months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
+cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied
+it so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
+sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when I
+set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof, fly-
+proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of it,
+"LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at 4
+P.M., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°. Height above the sea, 738 feet.
+
+5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards Camp
+VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depôt had been stationed;
+the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were visible along
+our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far these
+parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
+advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this
+day, we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
+a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
+running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
+until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
+tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
+accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
+then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
+think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
+of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
+both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
+articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
+their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the
+exploring party; and of the very favourable impression we had made
+formerly on the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of
+this river. In the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the
+ripe fruit of the "Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in
+flower that we thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at
+noon, 76°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°.
+
+
+
+Chapter IX.
+
+MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE MAPS.--
+EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS--AFTER
+SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM SENT WITH
+DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY CROSSES THE
+BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR RIVER.--
+TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET WITH.--CATTLE
+STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST
+SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF SAND.--AFTER
+SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE BARWAN.--A
+FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES NUMEROUS AFTER
+THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH
+THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--
+RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--
+A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE
+HOMEWARDS.
+
+5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of angles
+taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to the
+Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, followed by
+Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country in the direction
+of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of 1831; that was on
+the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29° 2' S., and bearing about 20° E. of
+S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" ponds, were said
+to water the intervening country, and I wished to ascertain whether they
+were favourable for the connection of our recently explored route, with
+the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, when my journey,
+undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, was accidentally
+frustrated.
+
+Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with the
+despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of the
+Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish maps
+and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from excessive heat,
+under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of the river were
+gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; FUSANUS
+ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which Yuranigh brought
+us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON MACULOSUM, was also
+in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous plant, has been determined
+by Professor De Vriese to be identical with the Swan River GOODENIA
+PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the cattle, proved to be a
+variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in February on the
+Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be the same as the
+G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R. Br., was covered
+with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy open parts of the
+forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high, with the foliage
+of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with short racemes of
+white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural order of Bixads,
+and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*] A submerged
+plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of MYRIOPHYLLUM, with
+tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub, was in
+flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit. A new
+ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a forest tree
+twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[****] A fir-leaved
+CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to five
+feet high.[*****] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the river-
+bank[******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[*******], completed the
+list of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's
+Bridge.
+
+[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+supra griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo
+longioribus, floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog.
+imbricata. ST. 5 in margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc.
+plac. 3-par. STYLUS simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus,
+verisim. carnosus.]
+
+[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
+emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
+fructibus tuberculatis.]
+
+[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque
+minute puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis
+glabris, glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-
+floris folio multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets
+are fewer and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are
+wanting.--G. B. M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste
+lanceolatis planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
+linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate
+between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
+
+[**** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
+integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
+
+[***** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
+lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
+brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
+contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
+leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
+yet ripe.]
+
+[****** M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra,
+ramis strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis,
+pedicellis plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a
+very distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836,
+but my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
+branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
+are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of M. GLABRA.
+G.B.]
+
+[******* I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis
+canescens, foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis
+mucronatis v. emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis
+folia vix superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus
+brevissimis obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--
+It has much the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not
+quite so small, and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
+
+15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than was
+expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
+Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
+horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
+project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
+settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
+north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
+within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however,
+cost the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
+direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
+magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden almost
+parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
+finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
+were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
+had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
+the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these gentlemen
+Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the new
+Governor.
+
+17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St. George's
+Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small advanced party on
+the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28° 17' 51" S. The channel was full
+of water, and thus we completed the last link wanted to form a chain of
+communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the furthest limits we had explored.
+The ground was imprinted with the hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as
+if at home. The day was one of extreme heat without any wind; the
+thermometer stood at 104° in the shade. Yet the horses drew the carts
+easily twenty-four miles and a quarter. We had passed over a country
+covered with excellent grass, consisting chiefly of plains and open
+forest, with scrubs of ACACIA PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs
+we found a new species of CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and
+in the open forest ACACIA NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS
+STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus related to SERICEUS; a new yellow
+CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species of STENOCHILUS, with willowy
+leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62°;
+at noon, 103°; at 4 P.M., 104°; at 9, 81°;--with wet bulb, 67°. Height
+above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
+
+[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis
+setaceis, foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra
+glabris subtus ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis
+oppositifoliis elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro
+brevi recto, ovulis numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--
+Very near to C. SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is
+more rigid, the leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and
+the pod (which is only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short
+stalk.]
+
+[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
+longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
+acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima
+dilatata subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--
+Leaves three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and
+clammy. Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of
+the corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This
+difference in the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing
+it into a distinct genus instead of a mere section, especially as that
+peculiarity which gave the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it
+not that the forms of the corolla are so different in different other
+species, that they will not furnish generic characters where the habit is
+similar.--G. B.]
+
+18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been above one
+mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of some
+decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot. The
+season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that between
+the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for visiting the
+tropical regions of Australia.
+
+Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
+species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
+less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
+MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
+of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in
+rich soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
+forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
+CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
+LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.M., 103°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+rigidis mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi
+in petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
+pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
+
+[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
+foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis,
+pedunculis folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis
+campanulati dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine
+puberulo.]
+
+19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
+cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and the
+channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
+of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
+and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when our
+young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my attention
+to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white woman going
+with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he could ever
+have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was amusing, as he
+pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as something curious in
+natural history, to which my attention, as he thought, would be rivetted:
+but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome one to all the party. Soon two
+comfortable stations, one on each side of the river, appeared before us;
+and the neatly dressed mother of two chubby white children stood at the
+door of one of them. I had a memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the
+other, to thank the owner for lending him a horse; and there I first
+entered again under a roof, and a most agreeable cover it did seem to me
+after living nearly a year under canvass, in houseless wilds. These were
+cattle stations, and both appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose,
+and upon a scale more substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto
+seen in squatting districts. The placing of two such stations thus near
+each other, is a good arrangement, not only affording better security
+against the depredations of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of
+solitude and loneliness such places in general present; and in the outset
+of such a life, implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of
+social union, on the solid basis of mutual protection.
+
+I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
+obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
+near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104° in
+the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.M., 104°;
+at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 63°. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28° 30' 51" S.
+
+20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably open
+forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr. Kennedy's
+track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided back by an
+experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and fell into a
+cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where we fell
+into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree at
+this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this camp,
+the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong leaves,
+and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and belongs
+to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
+HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
+BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
+cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
+beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
+flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
+a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
+not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
+carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
+"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
+Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
+
+[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens,
+foliis cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis
+dentatoserratis, stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus
+solitariis unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido
+laciniis acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.]
+
+[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis
+longe acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis
+lateralibus a margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris),
+umbellis pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
+attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
+
+Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and the
+sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it on
+this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any reason
+to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the beginning of
+April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and inundate the
+country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so was the rain.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 62°; at 4 P.M., 57°; at 9, 53°;--
+with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain had
+set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy day
+rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing maps
+in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
+recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
+a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
+prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
+change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
+so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that
+I endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For
+that reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous
+route of Fort Bourke.
+
+21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in Poussin's
+picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole year with
+scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so long been
+due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had fallen a
+year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much indeed; whereas
+it was now very likely to retard the return of the party. This was the
+only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded our progress;
+the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and we had still
+to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen the marks of
+floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining on my mind,
+that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out of these
+flats as soon as possible.
+
+On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
+waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
+until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
+drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
+lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
+down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations on
+the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water might
+reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a sand-
+hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected in
+good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and that
+we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by which
+the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground almost
+surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would, probably, render
+our passage out of that position difficult, even after the waters had
+subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam across this
+hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent the
+inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than sand to
+oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded in
+arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
+four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
+it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
+the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained
+above water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641
+feet, or about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to
+rise until the 2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day
+they began slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded
+from the dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began
+to present clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather
+was slow, and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their
+blossoms as soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS
+PILOSUS Benth.; a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again
+seen here; CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches,
+and very sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the
+appearance of a sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only
+on the 7th that a crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm
+for the cattle to travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity
+of quitting that camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us
+seventeen days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged
+us to tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this
+day passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until
+we arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I
+had been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
+the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
+however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
+direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
+That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
+growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A heavy
+thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I was
+under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
+journey.
+
+8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 69°. Height above the sea, 782
+feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
+direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible general
+line of communication between Sydney and the Maranòa. It seemed desirable
+that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my journey of 1831),
+some miles above the point where I had formerly reached that river; and
+thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy, falling into my old track
+about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of Mount Riddell. With this
+view, our latitude being 28° 57' 20" S., longitude 149° 11' E., I chose
+the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 23½° E. of S.), for my homeward
+guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a good firm surface, for
+sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at the bank of the
+Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through some open scrub, chiefly
+of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small grassy plains; saw one or
+two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris. An improvement was
+visible in the quality of the grass, when we came within the distance of
+about two miles from the river; and open forests or plains of richer
+soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the presence of
+the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we saw no cart
+tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle, apparently
+pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There was still a
+considerable flood in the river, although the water had been recently
+much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks. Latitude, 28°
+37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
+
+9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making preparations
+for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together, and on
+reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable place
+for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected without
+accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river at the
+same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the river than
+that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the number 87, cut
+on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want of such a mark,
+could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it should have been
+found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our stores and equipment
+were carried across in the boats. These looked well in the water; their
+trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret that I had not
+reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its channel had
+been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never were
+constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were creditable to
+the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole party was
+comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the Barwan, just
+before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had fallen several
+feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 82°.
+
+10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M. thermometer 68°. The mosquitoes were most
+tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my tent, who
+remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em, the more they
+brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the fancy," of
+which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses, although
+tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus. Some had
+broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained by Yuranigh,
+that four other strange horses were with ours, having come amongst them
+and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh- bouring
+station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the horses
+at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone forward with
+the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus upon the
+"Maäl," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of water,
+with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
+employ the boats. This channel was distant 5½ miles from where we had
+crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the yokes,
+drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very well; "RARÎ
+NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats, and the
+horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an early hour
+on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be marked 88, in
+figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29° 1' 20" S. This seemed to
+be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February, 1832, at a similar
+distance from the main river.
+
+11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 A.M., 70°. We continued to travel
+homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a direct
+line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The plains
+were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new CANTHIUM, was
+in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which Sir William
+Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely differing
+from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the calyx
+(not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
+blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a
+short beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
+THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS plant,
+quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous pinnatifid
+leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with stout
+needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met with no
+impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although without reaching
+water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect to meet with any
+watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir; which latter river I
+wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to meet with roads and
+inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become rare in this
+intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state, and most
+exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed through
+several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature for the
+distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here, each
+seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble in
+water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
+broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to
+trees or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the
+plains, the blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the
+eye: the rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines,
+a genus referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a
+new POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****]
+Height above the sea, 554 feet.
+
+[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
+racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a
+SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
+species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
+structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
+slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
+
+[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis
+basi in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus
+didymis.]
+
+[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
+subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis
+strictis longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique
+ovatis lignosis glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
+
+[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
+linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
+brevioribus.]
+
+12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 67°. Passing over a similar sort
+of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first leaving the
+camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where the ground
+seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous, and cow-dung
+abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its smoke being a
+valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a little of it was
+burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious plains than any we
+had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised, with great pleasure
+and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell, distant 61 miles. This
+seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen laborious years, that had
+intervened since I had given a name to that summit. It now proved the
+accuracy of my recent survey, appearing exactly in the direction, where,
+according to my maps, I pointed my glass to look for it. Like the face of
+an old friend, which, as the Persian proverb says, "brighteneth the
+eyes," so this required clear eyes to be seen at all; even Yuranigh,
+could not at first be persuaded that it was not a cloud. This fine peak
+must always be a good landmark on these vast plains, and may yet brighten
+the eye of the traveller from India, when emerging from the level regions
+upon the Barwan. We next perceived at a distance, a cloud of dust raised
+by a numerous herd of cattle, and came upon a water-course, or branch of
+the Gwydir, called, I believe, the "Meei." As I wanted to cross the
+Gwydir, I crossed this and continued; met with another deep ditch or
+channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and, at three miles beyond that,
+another: none of these resembling the Gwydir I had formerly seen. I had
+ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to meet the carts, and
+encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of these two water-courses.
+The heavy drays were, of course, far behind. Latitude, 29° 34' 41" S.
+Height above the sea, 553 feet.
+
+13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 A.M., 70°. The drays joined us early,
+having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being Sunday, rest
+for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary. I found we
+were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we were from the
+camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in with some road,
+when we reached the country to which I had formerly led the way. At
+sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the barometer had fallen 2½
+millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight shower followed, after which
+the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must have caused much difficulty
+and delay to the party, as we were upon low levels subject to inundation.
+Height above the sea, 499 feet. Thermometer, at 6 P.M., 88°.
+
+14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 A.M., 76°. During the night, and at
+day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
+appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 A.M. the sun shone on
+the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a channel
+of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and still I
+doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the Gwydir,
+having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I had
+however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
+and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
+plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
+extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
+these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named,
+in former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
+having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to
+meet at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the
+year 1831. Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7
+P.M., 87°. The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints
+but few traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly,
+but nothing else. No track remained along the line which I had so many
+years before laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look
+out for a stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my
+tent, but not without some apprehension that the people he had come
+amongst so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-
+Saxon race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian
+stockman. His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat
+about the ears of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his
+hand explained what he was about,--"in search of some stray cattle." He
+had evidently never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor
+of such a name as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow
+hill," according to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney
+he seemed to require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come
+from the station of Mr.----, where he was employed as stockman. Came out
+from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his
+brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest
+of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no
+further.
+
+16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and, in
+looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The lagoon
+was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank; but
+having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the master and
+some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were hospitably
+received. It was then about 2 P.M., and tea mixed with milk was set
+before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled eggs.
+Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
+sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
+much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
+eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
+Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded along
+a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led horse. Before
+we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt, night overtook
+us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness. The cart-track
+was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way without it, we were
+obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the shelter of even a tree,
+until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not above two miles off,
+but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the inmates, and asking
+them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his head, and said he had
+no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away from these "abodes of
+civilized men," to look for my old track, which had been traced along the
+base of the Nundawàr Range, where the bold outlines of Mounts Lindesay
+and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the past, amongst clouds lighted
+by beams from the rising sun. After having been long in unknown regions,
+time and distance seem of little consequence when we return to those
+previously known; and thus the whole day soon passed in looking for my
+former track. But I sought it in vain; and was glad at night to turn
+towards the banks of the Nammoy, in search of a cattle-station. Since I
+had first explored that country to which my wheel-tracks marked and led
+the way, station after station had been taken up by squatters, not by
+following any line of route, but rather according to the course of the
+river, for the sake of water; and in such cases, the beaten track from
+station to station, no matter how crooked, becomes the road. Thus it is,
+in the fortuitous occupation of Australia, that order and arrangement may
+precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS come again." I arrived about
+sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the Nammoy, where I was
+hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it, who rode eight miles in
+twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and sugar for me, and who lived
+on very friendly terms with some old natives who remembered me, and my
+first advance into that country.
+
+18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 A.M., Thermometer 75°. Height above the sea 750
+feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
+many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
+endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
+wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
+seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with my
+entire horse.
+
+The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of the
+richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
+river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
+eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
+amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
+mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
+station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
+reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
+comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
+taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
+permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
+welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
+with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
+numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
+tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
+sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
+she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
+the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me some
+days after.[**]
+
+[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
+
+[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
+medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
+trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
+served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
+surveyor.]
+
+
+
+Chapter X.
+
+MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.--PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE
+CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.--APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON
+HORSEBACK.--MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.--Of
+the aborigines.--CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.--IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR
+CIVILIZATION.--Of the Convicts.--THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.--CHARACTER OF
+THOSE OF THE PARTY.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.--THE UNFORTUNATE AND
+THE DEPRAVED.--Of the present Colony of New South Wales.--NATURAL STATE.
+--CAPABILITIES.--ITS TEMPORARY USES.--ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.--RETENTION
+OF WATER.--NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.--GROWTH OF COTTON AND
+SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.--THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.--WHEAT CROPS.--
+DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.--ROADS.--PROJECTED RAILWAYS.--
+Conclusion.--ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.--ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS.--ULTIMATE
+TENDENCY.--MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.--CO-OPERATION OF
+THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.--FINAL REPORT.--GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.--
+THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE TERRITORY.--PORT BOWEN--CAPRICORNIA.--GULF
+OF CARPENTARIA--AUSTRALINDIA.
+
+The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass Lagoon
+arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January, and the
+new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities to the
+most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent the names to
+England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought deserving of Her
+Majesty's gracious pardon.
+
+The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr.
+Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive
+(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light
+party on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and
+obtained His Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the
+river, and to apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the
+equipment of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle
+of March, with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare
+horses, with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen
+months. The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy
+was required to do.
+
+* * *
+
+Surveyor-General's Office, Sydney, 22d February, 1847.
+
+"Sir,
+
+"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my proposal
+for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small party to
+be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose to you a
+copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the late
+expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you
+will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions
+for your especial guidance may permit.
+
+"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains
+so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you
+leave the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the
+Balonne at St. George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and
+thence by the route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you
+will proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying
+tracing of my survey.
+
+"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my return
+route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far in
+looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the
+map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond
+Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on
+your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my
+old advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps
+(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warregò in the
+direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is
+very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can
+scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed
+as closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warregò may be
+looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th
+June.
+
+"You will next pursue the course of the Warregò upwards towards Mount
+Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide you to.
+You will follow up the Cùnno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on your right
+or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my horse-
+track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish you
+would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track from
+the head of Cùnno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively open, in
+the direction of my bivouac of 11th September.
+
+"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low,
+but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass your
+carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from
+which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but
+more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will
+have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher
+part, but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered
+valley, which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus
+far, you can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map,
+and following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he
+will no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It
+is very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the
+Victoria in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in
+which, should your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party
+is to be provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to
+your aid or assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall
+have reached the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in
+finding Camp (72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to
+follow down the watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the
+Victoria, and, as you have been instructed to take an expert native with
+you, you ought to find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting
+off large bends of the river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st
+October, you must keep by the river along my route back, and not follow
+the circuitous track which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After
+about four miles by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return
+track again crossed the outward track over the downs, so that you may
+fall into the route westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria.
+I fear you must depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings,
+for ascertaining the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th
+September. You will see by the map how generally straight my journeys
+were between these points, and how important it would be for you to know
+the situation of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out
+westward in the direction of my return route, instead of following the
+main channel throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the
+northward. Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever
+that may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map
+with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and
+determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and
+consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the same
+means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your guidance, I
+shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the relative
+distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore feet,
+either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average,
+about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing,
+you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon becomes a
+habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry about
+thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas would
+do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces, remove
+one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of bearing,
+you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of hundreds,
+ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each change of
+bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket for your
+watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this important
+purpose.
+
+"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of
+equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and
+allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You
+may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so
+obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will,
+after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure,
+adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different
+latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find
+the results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the
+variation of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or
+west, and when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with
+the rate of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude.
+You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that
+may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be
+ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of
+reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of
+the flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in
+a small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the
+determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a
+convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the
+accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view,
+without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally spread
+into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as a
+general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any
+scarcity of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more
+speedily accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you
+would cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the
+west. On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have
+particularly to caution you against remaining longer than may be
+unavoidable there, or, indeed, in any one place, in any part of your
+route, where natives may be numerous.
+
+"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it
+will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off
+angles, by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and
+when so returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the
+route and the country may be better described by you, and recognised
+afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on
+trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence
+them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus
+avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the
+Victoria.
+
+"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in
+charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your
+journey.
+
+"I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant,
+
+"T. L. MITCHELL, SURVEYOR-GENERAL.
+
+"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P. Assistant Surveyor, Sydney."
+
+OF THE ABORIGINES.
+
+There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less
+understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal
+natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity,
+yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and judgment
+to the white men composing my party. Their means of subsistence and their
+habits, are both extremely simple; but they are adjusted with admirable
+fitness to the few resources afforded by such a country, in its wild
+state. What these resources are, and how they are economised by the
+natives, can only be learnt by an extensive acquaintance with the
+interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts, bearing on this
+subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest. Fire, grass, kangaroos,
+and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on each other for existence in
+Australia; for any one of these being wanting, the others could no longer
+continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass, and form those open
+forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo; the native applies
+that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a young green
+crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable him to kill or
+take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of long grass also
+discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females and children,
+who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple process, the
+Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle as those of New
+Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which the white men
+now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the kangaroo, which
+is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony where cattle run.
+The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to produce the
+extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of existence; and
+this must work such extensive changes in Australia as never entered into
+the contemplation of the local authorities. The squatters, it is true,
+have also been obliged to burn the old grass occasionally on their runs;
+but so little has this been understood by the Imperial Government that an
+order against the burning of the grass was once sent out, on the
+representations of a traveller in the south. The omission of the annual
+periodical burning by natives, of the grass and young saplings, has
+already produced in the open forest lands nearest to Sydney, thick
+forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might gallop without
+impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos are no longer to be
+seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither are there natives
+to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there amongst the fences
+of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the white race seems
+thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation of the
+aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any adverse
+feelings these may show towards the white men, that these consequences,
+although so little considered by the intruders, must be obvious to the
+natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter on their
+territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of the
+natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of
+aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors
+of aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race
+has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency
+still more destructive.
+
+It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to
+be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel
+disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle
+or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos
+from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers;
+but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly
+because much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or
+cattle. No orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of
+these atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal
+obedience to injunctions from home, and the policy of the local
+authorities has not been influenced by less humane motives.
+
+It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for
+one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor,
+and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of
+Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth
+Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and
+resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary
+to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback.
+Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of all
+the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and quick
+ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though
+uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards
+the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the
+willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself
+before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean
+in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair,
+always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent appearance.
+He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on returning to
+Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never before seen houses,
+and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the theatre, and whatever
+else was likely to gratify his curiosity. The boy was all questions and
+observation. I was at a loss how to make these natives comfortable; or
+suitably reward their services. The new Governor kindly granted the small
+gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and Dicky became a favourite in my family.
+Both these natives loathed the idea of returning to the woods, as
+savages; and, as if captivated with the scenes of activity around them,
+both expressed a desire "to work and live like white men." This shows
+that, when treated on a footing of equality, as these had been in my
+party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to take part in the labours
+of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old freedom of the bush
+seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts them back to it.
+Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular agreement,) as
+stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and he took an
+affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in the country,
+with the intention of having him educated there with my children,
+provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I left the
+colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate an
+aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children
+should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon
+which the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly
+tried.
+
+This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much
+interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the
+married couple to another country, where the children might be educated,
+and kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of
+sending such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of
+Europe, where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the
+grape, fig, and olive, as well as the management of other productions of
+similar latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with
+their family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different
+language from those about them, they would be less open to the influences
+that interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony;
+while the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it.
+Were this experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition
+afforded by industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation,
+and inspire them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the
+white men, which, without having some such examples set before them, must
+seem to them unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a
+degraded position in the presence of the white population: a mere
+outcast, obliged to beg a little bread. In his native woods, the "noble
+savage" knows no such degrading necessity.--All there participate in, and
+have a share of, Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open
+to all. Experience here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of
+other countries has shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as
+free as Nature first made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and
+come under all the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from
+choice, unless they can do so on terms of the most perfect equality.
+Surely it behoves the nation so active in the suppression of slavery to
+consider betimes, in taking up new countries, how the aboriginal races
+can be preserved; and how the evil effects of spirituous liquors, of
+gunpowder, and of diseases more inimical to them than even slavery, may
+be counteracted.
+
+OF THE CONVICTS.
+
+The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring
+parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were
+chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had acquired
+good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on this last
+occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part chosen from
+amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst and most
+irreclaimable of their class.
+
+The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to
+follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous
+surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as
+labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to
+lay the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great
+advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on
+the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of war-
+steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and private
+enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so essential to
+an important harbour, had not the Government always possessed the means
+of cheaply constructing such a work by convict labour, and been thus able
+at any time to have entered into such competition as might have been very
+injurious to a private speculator. At Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths,
+shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work in their various avocations; all
+the shoes, for both the men and horses of the expedition, were made
+there; also one half of the carts, which proved equally good as the other
+portion, although that was made by the best maker in the colony, a
+celebrated man.
+
+The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on Cockatoo
+Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such that even the
+most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts, and seemed to
+wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the superintendent.
+The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of good behaviour in
+the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul amongst these
+prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims and pretensions,
+which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly investigated by
+Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the visiting
+magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at length
+made, after careful examination of the phrenological developments and
+police history of each; and it was not easy to find one without a
+catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office annals.
+Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by physical
+developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party from
+amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful Irishmen,
+on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old followers on
+former journeys, who had become free.
+
+This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to
+behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be supposed
+to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the convict
+character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have been made
+to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year, away from
+all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was chiefly because
+these men were placed in a position where it was so very clearly for
+their own interest to conduct themselves properly. Accordingly, the
+greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the highest
+satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring hardships,
+and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to do anything
+to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still there were
+a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party, animated by
+such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true character, nor even
+disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the achievement of their
+liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as the "flash mob." They
+spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever intent on robbing the
+stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS). They held it to be wrong
+to exert themselves at any work, if it could be avoided; and would not be
+seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation. They kept themselves
+out of sight as much as possible; neglected their arms; shot away their
+ammunition contrary to orders; and ate in secret, whatever they did kill,
+or whatever fish they caught.
+
+Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two promising
+men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of them was
+finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious that the
+men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs even, express
+sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and still
+susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they cannot
+afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence against
+the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys, with
+whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or
+HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever
+"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed and
+more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be so
+arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in
+their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the
+stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded by
+savage tribes in the interior.
+
+Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a wide
+difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen flour,
+refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my younger
+days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life." Convicts,
+in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one,
+fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was
+the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose
+principle of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose
+reformation, there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class,
+repented of their crime from the moment of conviction; those of the
+other, know no such word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing
+of hope and change;" and would eagerly avail himself of every means
+afforded him to regain the position he had lost; the other, true to his
+"order," will "die game." For the separation of the wheat from the chaff,
+a process by no means difficult, the colony of New South Wales was
+formerly well adapted. The ticket of leave granted to the deserving
+convict was one of the most perfect of reformatory indulgences; each
+individual being known to the authorities, and liable, on the least
+misconduct, to be sent to work on the public roads. The colony of New
+South Wales has been the means of restoring many of our unfortunate
+countrymen to positions in which they have shown that loyalty, industry,
+public spirit, and patriotism, are not always to be extinguished in the
+breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters and degradation. It is to be
+regretted that a more vigilant discrimination had not interposed a more
+marked line between those convicts deserving emancipation, and those
+whose services are still wanted on the roads and bridges of the colony.
+
+OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
+
+There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to render
+it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South Wales or
+Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or, at least,
+such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters' condition
+is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country without
+navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to uncertain
+seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social intercourse,
+and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man. With equal
+truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth susceptible
+of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity of man. If
+there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome savannas; if there
+are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of forming reservoirs
+of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain may fall, it is
+certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of man alone is
+wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such a clime,
+and under such a sun, that most important of elements in cultivation,
+water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to man's use than it
+is in other warm regions, where, if the general vegetation be more
+luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water for all purposes
+of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the command of art and
+industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the peculiar
+disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as would
+greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of human
+industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water would be
+found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and adjusted, by
+such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but the natural
+product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural resources
+exist, but require art and industry for their development, the field is
+open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable investment
+of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New South Wales.
+
+But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too
+much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet
+adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying
+and adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which
+deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been
+corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the
+natural fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in
+favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable,
+perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for
+that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the
+structure of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a
+small number of these might be made to retain as much of the surface
+water as might even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because
+the channels of rivers are in general confined by high banks, within
+which many, or indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into
+canals. To such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied,
+had it been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to
+work together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere
+facilities for constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill,
+and thus afford means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not
+labour now too scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in
+a manner suitable to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation.
+
+The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which
+supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well
+adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour,
+nothing could prevent these regions from being made extensively
+productive of both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to
+be ascertained whether some parts of the country may not be made as
+productive as Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of
+latitude, in the opposite hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the
+development of every branch of production derivable from industry in
+these regions.
+
+[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the
+Society of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever
+produced, I believe, in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid,
+superintendent of the Botanic garden at Sydney, from olives grown there,
+and seemed very clear and good.]
+
+Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and
+upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior quality;
+and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these districts and
+the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict labour, the
+progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and climate, and,
+as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had been much more
+advanced than it is there.
+
+The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be opened,
+have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is, therefore,
+the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible introduction
+of railways with much interest. In a country like that around Sydney,
+where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by roads in
+order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the value and
+importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and calculations have
+been made to show that a railway between Sydney and the southern
+districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along that line.
+The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open undulating
+country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly growing into
+importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway, between that
+town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive tracts of
+valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a sort of
+centre.
+
+On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best
+lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has,
+of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the
+rural districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals
+who had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the
+assistance of settlers in the country.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years ago,
+a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The location of
+settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms, then much in
+arrear, and the division of the territory into counties, hundreds, and
+parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to settlers, altogether
+rendered necessary a general survey of the colony, which work I commenced
+in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal Instructions, sent to the
+colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827 and 1837 was the most
+prosperous in the history of the colony of New South Wales, when convicts
+made good roads, farms were measured up, and the country was surveyed and
+divided into countries. Colonization extended rapidly to the shores of
+the southern ocean, and Australia Felix was made known to the British
+public.
+
+The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the
+direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent,
+however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate
+tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole intervening
+country. My plans of exploration have been governed by these views and
+objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was intended to complete
+the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One led across the Blue
+mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far as the land seemed
+worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia Felix and the southern
+coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to the northern shores
+at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria,--from which I
+trust that by this time my assistant Mr. Kennedy will have returned to
+Sydney.
+
+Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a duty[*],
+I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan which
+must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled me to
+bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years, and in
+the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at the
+command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British
+Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the
+benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that
+this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the
+petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly
+at the expense of the colony of New South Wales.
+
+[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.]
+
+It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words, to
+point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be available
+for the economical extension of that colonisation which the expansive
+energies of this great nation seem to require. New South Wales may be
+benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional market on
+the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was
+necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most
+eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast. It is now
+ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements from the
+open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25°
+south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table
+Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;--a country but
+lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy access
+to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the intervention
+of any such formidable barrier between that interior open country and the
+coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony. Precisely on that
+part of the coast, to which the united channels of the water lead, a
+harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent naval officers.
+These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to define one
+situation more favourable than any other that might be found along that
+coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide almost equally
+the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I allude to Port
+Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has been (I believe)
+called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of the coast, at
+the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to steam navigation.
+The occupation of the fine country on the rivers Victoria, Salvator and
+Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for supplies; and on the
+occupation of that back-country must again, in a great measure, depend
+the establishment of a direct line of communication between Sydney and
+the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of
+route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon
+require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a
+commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which might, by
+degrees, become an important town; where horses might be shipped and
+conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards of Torres
+Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible description by
+Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's Island, being both
+higher than the main land, might be connected with it, by some permanent
+work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and shelter and anchorage
+for other ships. According to the interesting narrative of Captain
+Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and convict labour might there
+be very usefully employed upon such works. The head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian Ocean nearest to Sydney, has
+appeared of more importance to the colonists, since steam navigation
+became regular between England and the Indian archipelago. Then it became
+more desirable for the colonists to know the nature of the interior
+country between their capital and that northern coast. The interior has
+been found very open and accessible; the fine country at the head of the
+Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus divide the whole distance into
+two equal parts, each of these not much exceeding the distance between
+Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia Felix; between which places mail-
+carriages now run twice a week. Thus, while, by the extension of
+geographical research, the proper fields for colonization are laid open
+for selection, and prepared for timely arrangements on the part of the
+Imperial Government; the colonists of New South Wales have promoted the
+general interests of their fellow subjects at home, by the developement
+of the resources of the territory around them.
+
+He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed the
+earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two
+elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the
+East Coast range--the one affording the nearest access to an important
+sea, the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with
+deference to Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through
+the Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive
+names on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the
+country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25° South, where nature
+has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia, the
+country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian
+archipelago; which two regions may be made conterminous according to
+natural limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales. No.
+30/1252. Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.
+
+Sir,
+
+I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to
+inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been
+pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the
+office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of
+the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their
+duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who,
+with the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all
+arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant,
+
+ALEX. M'LEAY.
+
+To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire, Surveyor-General.
+
+* * * * *
+
+A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING
+JOURNEY.
+
+THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW.
+
+[numerals refer to page numbers in the book]
+
+FERNS.
+
+Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212. ----assimile, 204. 212. Nothochlaena
+distans, 212. Grammitis rutaefolia, 212. Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212.
+Doodia caudata, 212. Platyzoma microphyllum, 236.
+
+GRASSES.
+
+Aristida calycina, 33. Arundo Phragmites, 124. * Anthistiria membranacea,
+LINDL. 88. ----australis PASSIM. ----sp. 97. Andropogon sericeus, 62.
+----bombycinus, 378. ----sp. 117. Bromus australis, 61. * Chloris
+selerantha, LINDL. 31. ----acicularis LINDL. 33. Dactyloctenium radulans,
+88. Danthonia pectinata, 319. ----* triticoides LINDL. 365. Erianthus,
+fulvo aff. 62. Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349. Lappago biflora, 364.
+Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33. Perotis rara, 139. Panicum laevinode 60. AND
+PASSIM. Pappophorum gracile, 319. ----* avenaceum LINDL. 320. ----*
+virens, LINDL. 360. ----* flavescens, LINDL. 34. * Stipa scabra, LINDL.
+31. * Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187. Triodia pungens, 177. 340.
+Triraphis mollis, 88.
+
+SEDGES.
+
+Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124. ----sp. 120. Kyllinga monocephala, 100.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS.
+
+Damasonium ovalifolium, 31. Xerotes laxa, 361. ----leucocephala, 198.
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378. * Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3
+Commelina undulata, 347. Thysanotus elatior, 347. Tricoryne elatior, 387.
+Laxmannia gracilis, 365. Dianella rara, 366. ----strumosa, 341.
+
+GYMNOGENS. Zamia, 209. Callitris sp. n. 187. ----glauca, 298. ----
+pyramidalis, 93.
+
+SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE).
+
+* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371. ----* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124.
+Beyeria, sp. n. 390. Bertya oleaefolia, 290. Euphorbia hypericifolia?
+265. ----* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348. Hylococcus sericeus, 389. *
+Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342. Phyllanthus simplex? 106.
+
+CUCURBITS.
+
+Cucumis pubescens, 110.
+
+BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE).
+
+* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383.
+
+FRANKENIADS.
+
+* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305. ----* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305.
+
+CAPPARIDS.
+
+* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257. ----* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220. ----
+lasiantha, 102. ----Mitchellii, 36. Cleome flava, 127.
+
+STERCULIADS.
+
+Brachychiton populneum, 355. * Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155.
+
+BYTTNEBIADS.
+
+* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+MALLOWWORTS.
+
+Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260. ----* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363. Fugosia digitata?
+387. ----sp. 64. Malva ovata, 397. * Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368. ----
+pisiformis, 362. ----* virgata, HOOKER, 361. ----filiformis, A. CUNN.
+361. ----tubulosa, CUNN. 390. ----sp. n. 103.
+
+LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE).
+
+Grewia Richardiana, 383.
+
+MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE).
+
+* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342.
+
+SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE).
+
+Thouinia australis, 390. * Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273. ----* filifolia,
+HOOKER, 241. ----* hirtella, 191. ----* mollis, LINDL. 212. ----*
+peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361. ----* pubescens, LINDL. 342. ----*
+tenuifolia, LINDL. 248. ----* trigona, LINDL. 236. ----* triangularis,
+219. ----* vestita, HOOKER, 265.
+
+DILLENIADS.
+
+Pleurandra ericifolia, 362. ----* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363. Hibbertia
+canescens, 339.
+
+CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE).
+
+Clematis stenophylla, 368. Ranunculus plebeius, 362. ----sessiliflorus,
+361.
+
+PITTOSPORADS.
+
+* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224. * Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97. ----
+lanceolatum, 272.
+
+EPACRIDS.
+
+Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226.
+
+CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE).
+
+* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353.
+
+RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE).
+
+* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225. ----* eriantha, LINDL. 298. * Eriostemon
+rhombeum, LINDL. 293. * Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102. ----* latifolia,
+LINDL. 236. ----* pendula, LINDL. 251. Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398. *
+Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347. * Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199. *
+Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339.
+
+CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE).
+
+Geranium parviflorum? 362. Erodium littoreum? 360.
+
+PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE).
+
+* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148. ----* pusilla, LINDL. 360.
+
+BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE).
+
+Polygonum acre, 149. ----junceum, 85.
+
+NYCTAGOS.
+
+Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362.
+
+AMARANTHS.
+
+Amaranthus undulatus, 102. Alternanthera nodiflora, 35. ----sp. 341.
+Nyssanthes? 360. * Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45. ----Janatum, 33.
+88. ----* conicum, LINDL. 363. ----fusiforme, 383. ----alopecuroideum,
+88. 91.
+
+CHENOPODS.
+
+Ambrina carinata, 127. * Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64. ----
+elaeagnoides, 29 Atriplex semibaccata, 23. * Chenopodium auricomum,
+LINDL. 94. Enchylaena tomentosa, 102. Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67. ----*
+thymifolia, LINDL. 56. ----* lanosa, LINDL. 88. ----* villosa, LINDL. 91.
+Rhagodia parabolica, 53. Salsola australis, 24, etc. Seleroaena uniflora,
+72. * Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239.
+
+FICOIDS.
+
+Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315.
+
+DAPHNADS.
+
+Pimelea linifolia? 340. ----* trichostachya, LINDL. 355. ----colorans,
+362. Exocarpus aphylla, 118. ----spartea, 135.
+
+PROTEADS.
+
+* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342. * Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER,
+265. ----* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341. ----floribunda, 212. ----*
+longistyla, HOOKER, 343. ----sp. 276. * Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397.
+----* purpurea, HOOKER, 348.
+
+DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE).
+
+Cassytha pubescens, 362.
+
+LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.
+
+Acacia conferta, 174. 289. ----Cunninghamii, 204. ----doratoxylon, 289.
+----delibrata, 258. ----decora, 359. var. 223. ----* excelsa, BENTH. 225.
+----Farnesiana, 256. ----falcata, 221. Acacia holosericea, 256. ----
+Simsii, 256. ----leucadendron, 258. ----* longespicata, BENTH. 298. ----
+ixiophylla, 204. ----leptoclada, var. 95. ----* macradenia, BENTH. 360.
+----neriifolia, 386. ----pendula, PASSIM. ----pennifolia, 361. ----
+podalyriifolia, 221. ----* pinifolia, BENTH. 342. ----stenophylla, 81.
+----spectabilis, 353. ----salicina, 56. ----triptera, 291. ----* varians,
+BENTH. 132. ----* Victoriae, BENTH. 333. ----* uncifera, BENTH. 341. ----
+viscidula, 340. * Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236. * Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH.
+290. ----rhombifolia, 294. * Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384. ----*
+coronilloides, CUNN. 384. ----* zygophylla, BENTH. 288. ----sophera, 390.
+----occidentalis, 378. ----heteroloba, 251. * Crotalaria dissitiflora,
+BENTH. 386. ----* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120. * Cyclogyne swainsonioides,
+BENTH. 397. * Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363. * Erythrina vespertilio,
+BENTH. 218. * Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348. Hardenbergia monophylla,
+236. Hovea lanceolata, 212. ----* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289. * Indigofera
+brevidens, BENTH. 385. ----hirsuta, 122. * Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH.
+258. ----scoparia, 339. * Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365. Labichea
+rupestris, BENTH. 342. * Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273. * Leptocyamus
+latifolius, BENTH. 361. * Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62. ----australis,
+var. 348. Neptunia gracilis, 362. * Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131.
+Sesbania aculeata? 106. * Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363. Vigna, an
+capensis? 339. ----* lanceolata, BENTH. 350. ----* suberecta, BENTH. 388.
+
+ROSEWORTS.
+
+Rubus parvifolius, 351.
+
+LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE).
+
+Lythrum Salicaria, 62.
+
+RHAMNADS.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, 201. Cryptandra propinqua, 223. * Ventilago
+viminalis, HOOKER, 369.
+
+SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE).
+
+* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387. * Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+STACKHOUSIADS.
+
+Stackhousia muricata, 362.
+
+DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE).
+
+Carissa ovata, 393. Tabernaemontana, sp. 341. * Doobàh, 85.
+
+LOGANIADS.
+
+* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+GENTIANWORTS.
+
+Erythraea australis, 366.
+
+OLIVEWORTS.
+
+Notclaea punctata, 352.
+
+NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE).
+
+Nicotiana suaveolens, 64. Solanum ellipticum, 215. ----furfuraceum, 212.
+----biflorum, 362. ----violaceum, 365. ----sp. 85.
+
+BINDWEEDS.
+
+* Polymeria longifolia, 398. Convolvulus erubescens, 353. Evolvulus,
+sericeo aff., 386. ----linifolius, 339.
+
+LEADWORTS.
+
+Plumbago zeylanica, 219.
+
+RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE).
+
+Plantago varia, 352.
+
+JASMINWORTS.
+
+* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355. ----lineare, 94. ----* Mitchellii,
+LINDL. 365.
+
+EHRETIADS.
+
+Halgania, sp. 24.
+
+BORAGEWORTS.
+
+* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258.
+
+BRUNONIADS.
+
+Brunonia sericea, 341. ----simplex? 360. ----* simplex, LINDL. 82.
+
+LABIATES.
+
+Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347. * Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362.
+Moschosma polystachya, 137. Plectranthus parviflorus, 347. * Prostanthera
+odoratissima, BENTH., 291. ----* ringens, BENTH., 363. ----*
+euphrasioides, BENTH., 360. Teucrium recemosum, 31. ----argutum, 198.
+Salvia plebeia, 366.
+
+VERBENES.
+
+Chloanthes stoechadis, 298. Vitex, sp. n., 212.
+
+MYOPORADS.
+
+* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31. * Myoporum dulce, 253. ----
+Cunninghamii, 214. * Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273. ----*
+salicinus, BENTH., 251. ----* curvipes, BENTH., 221. ----*
+bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386.
+
+BIGNONIADS.
+
+Tecoma Oxleyi, 291.
+
+ACANTHADS.
+
+Justicia media, 31. 89. 361. ----ascendens, 97. Ruellia australis, 353.
+
+FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE).
+
+Morgania floribunda, 62. 384. Veronica plebeia, 360.
+
+GOODENIADS.
+
+Dampiera adpressa, 339. Goodenia pulchella, 339. ----* flagellifera, DE
+VRIESE, 378. ----coronopifolia, 359. ----geniculata, 72. * Linschotenia
+bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345. * Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258.
+
+COMPOSITES.
+
+Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62. * Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75. ----
+cuneifolia, 28. * Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378. * Eurybia
+subspicata, HOOKER, 293. Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359. Erechthites arguta,
+225. * Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62. * Flaveria australasica, HOOKER,
+118. Helichrysum bracteatum, 79. ----* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83. ----
+semipapposum, 389. ----odorum? 362. Helipteres anthemoides, 349. ----*
+glutinosa, HOOK., 361. Minuria heterophylla, 64. Monenteles redolens,
+263. * Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353. Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347.
+Podolepis acuminata? 289. ----rugata? 362. ----longipedunculata, 362.
+Pycnosorus globosus, 353. Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78. ----*
+arachnoidea, HOOK., 341. Senecio carnosulus? 360. ----Cunninghami, 45.
+----brachylaenus, 62. Sphaeranthus hirtus 212.
+
+HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA).
+
+* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306. ----* glauca, LINDL., 91. * Myriophyllum
+verrucosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE).
+
+Angophora lanceolata, 81. * Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235. Eucalyptus
+sideroxylon, 339. ----* acuminatus, HOOK. 390. Eucalyptus pulverulento
+aff. 91. ----* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235. ----* citriodorus, HOOKER,
+235. ----* populifolius, HOOKER, 204. ----bicolor, 390. ----* viminalis,
+HOOKER, 157. * Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298. * Melaleuca
+trichostachya, LINDL. 277. ----* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262. Schidiomyrtus
+tenellus, 340. * Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198.
+
+CINCHONADS.
+
+Canthium sp. 386. ----* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397. Pomax hirta, 340.
+
+STELLATES.
+
+Asperula? 360.
+
+UMBELLIFERS.
+
+Actinotus Helianthi, 345. Daucus brachiatus, 235. Didiscus pilosus, 593.
+
+SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE).
+
+Fusanus acuminatus, 105. Santalum oblongatum 101.
+
+LORANTHS.
+
+* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102. ----* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101.
+----* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224. ----* nutans, CUNN. 158.
+
+[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-
+long) on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).]
+
+LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA ***
+
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia, by Thomas Mitchell</h1>
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+Title: Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
+
+Author: Thomas Mitchell
+
+Release Date: February, 2006  [EBook #9943]
+[This file was first posted on November 2, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: iso-8859-1
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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION
+INTO THE INTERIOR OF TROPICAL AUSTRALIA ***
+
+
+
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+<center>
+<b>This ebook produced by Col Choat</b>
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+<br>
+<br>
+<b>
+Note:&nbsp; The zipped version of this HTML file includes numerous illustrations and maps.&nbsp;
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+</b>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr>
+<a name="home"></a>
+
+<h2>Journal of an Expedition<br>
+    into the Interior of Tropical Australia</h2>
+
+<h3>In Search of a Route from Sydney<br>
+    to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)</h3>
+
+<h4>by</h4>
+
+<h3>Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)<br>
+Surveyor-General of New South Wales</h3>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h5>Originally published in 1848</h5>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-1a"></a><img alt="" src="trop-1a.jpg"></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+</center>
+
+<h5>TO<br>
+THE HONOURABLE<br>
+THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS<br>
+OF THE<br>
+LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW  SOUTH WALES,<br>
+THIS JOURNAL<br>
+OF<br>
+AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,<br>
+PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,<br>
+AND<br>
+UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,<br>
+IS<br>
+DEDICATED<br>
+BY<br>
+THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,<br>
+HUMBLE SERVANT,<br>
+T. L. MITCHELL</h5>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>PREFACE.</h3>
+
+<p>"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the most
+attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of Australia. There the
+philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the poet for original studies and
+ideas; the naturalist for additional knowledge; and the historian might begin at
+a beginning. The traveller there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples,
+or towers; but he is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of
+healthful progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
+Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions still
+unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now that the
+rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most deserving people
+on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved by the Almighty for
+their use.<p>
+
+<p>In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early period
+between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known to the
+ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Communemque priùs, ceu lumina solis et auras,
+Cautus humum longo signavit limite mensor."<br>
+[* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]</blockquote>
+
+<p>The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
+arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
+internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and the
+north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the last twenty
+years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to bring under the notice
+of men of science some of the earth's productions hitherto unknown. He cannot
+sufficiently express his sense of obligation in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir
+William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and Professor De Vriese, for supplying the
+botanical matter and notes contained in this volume, and thus contributing to
+the general stock of human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that
+during the long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
+register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst of his
+important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison of minute
+details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
+
+<p>The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in its
+accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of latitude;
+trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever heights were
+available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route. This route was
+connected, at its commencement and termination, with the trigonometrical
+survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a survey extending
+two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of his intersections with
+that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could not but be very satisfactory
+to the author.
+
+<p>The geological specimens collected during this journey have been deposited
+in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on the maps by the
+numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be available to
+geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science, the fossils now
+brought from these remote regions will be accessible at any future time, and
+something known of the geology as well as of the geography of the interior. As
+Professor Forbes most readily undertook to describe the freshwater shells after
+the work had passed through the press, that portion of the collection also has
+thus been brought under the notice of geologists.
+
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter01">CHAPTER I.</a></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+
+<a href="#trop-02">GENERAL MAP</a><br><br>
+
+Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord
+Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--Scattered
+population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of sheep on cattle
+runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--Sulphureous
+springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan. Leave Bultje's
+country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between the squatters and
+the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of young bullocks.--Richard
+Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night without water.--Distress from
+heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion of the party.--Melancholy fate of
+the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants discovered.--Encampment at Mudaà.--Carry
+water forward.--Arrive at Daròbal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelègo.--Discovery
+of a lagoon.--Encamp near Canbelègo. Explore the Bogan in search of
+water.--Long ride.--Quit the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter02">CHAPTER II.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+
+<a href="#trop-05">MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE</a><br><br>
+
+Move to the ponds of Cannonbà.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's
+intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of weather.--A
+day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt plant.--Reconnoitre
+Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach of a flood announced.--It
+arrives in clear moonlight.--Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering
+cattle.--A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the
+Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds
+destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to modern
+names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of the Macquarie
+and Bàrwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--Admirable distribution of
+water. The ford at Wyàbry.--The party crosses the Darling</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter03">CHAPTER III.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-07">MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.</a><br><br>
+
+Plains and low hills.--The Caràwy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The
+Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--During the
+delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the Narran.--New
+plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their passage.--The party
+fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills examined.--Good grassy
+country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west of the river.--Ride
+up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley with a native.--Gravelly
+ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--Approach the assembled
+natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial reception.--Cross the
+Balonne.--Reach the Culgòa.--Cross that river.--Route beyond.--The Upper
+Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on trees.--A native scamp.--Fine
+country.--Splendid reaches of the river--Lagoons near it.--Lake
+Parachute.--Seek a position--for a depôt camp.--Ride to the
+north-west.--Character of the country.--Search for water. Uncommon
+birds.--Return to the camp.--New Acacia</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter04">CHAPTER IV.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-10">MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANÒA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.</a><br><br>
+
+Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--Trace
+one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore it.--Fine
+country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small tributary.--Mountains
+discovered.--Camp visited by three natives.--"Cogoon" the name of
+tributary.--Charms of the Australian climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme
+cold.--Traces of high floods in the Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount
+Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or
+DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel due north over open downs.--Advantages of
+mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party
+advances to the Amby--followed by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter
+the country through the pass.--Find one pond.--A large river
+discovered.--Position taken up on its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore
+to the north-west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior
+country visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to
+trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--Native
+visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The Tagando tribe
+again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance again with a light
+party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter05">CHAPTER V.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-13">MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE, AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.</a><br><br>
+
+My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--Ride
+north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party crosses
+Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the north-west.--Banks
+of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards it.--Flank movement to
+the Maranòa for water.--None found in its bed.--View from Mount Owen.--Names of
+localities on the map.--Scarcity of water impedes our progress.--Water found
+in rocky gullies.--Excursion northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern
+summit of Mount Owen.--Progress through a broken country.--Night without
+water.--Another route explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount
+Owen.--Route for the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount
+P. P. King.--View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount
+Faraday.--Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the
+camp.--The party with the carts advances.--Course of the new found river.--New
+plants.--A large lake receives the river.--The outlet dry.--Enter a
+scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich soil on the
+downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river. Fossil wood.--Again
+shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a gully.--Balmy Creek.--New
+plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower Almond.--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter06">CHAPTER VI.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-18">MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,</a><br><br>
+
+Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate and
+country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the
+water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--Causes of
+the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river channel from
+the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much increased.--Long journey
+through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the river bank.--Character of this
+river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach
+the river by moonlight.--Large lagoons.--New tributary--from the
+S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp
+visited by natives during my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party
+crosses the river.--Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the
+natives.--The shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable
+production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--Singular
+meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--Recross the
+Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the
+strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to explore a river in brigalow.--A
+more direct way homewards.--Successful passage with carts and drays.--Open
+downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the
+Salvator.--Position taken up for a depôt camp.--Interesting plants</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter07">CHAPTER VII.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-13">(Having reference to Map V.)</a><br><br>
+
+Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three volcanic
+hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--The Nive and
+the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found, after a night of
+thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--Morning view from a
+rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open downs.--Brigalow scrubs
+away from the river.--River much increased.--Security from natives--Thoughts
+in these solitudes.--The downs and the river.--An emu shot there.--A river
+joins from the east.--Structure of native's huts.--Two separate channels
+unite.--The river well filled.--Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare
+pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and
+return homewards.--The savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the
+S. W.--Short cut along the left bank of the river.--Name it the
+Victoria.--Privations in exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by
+a snake.--Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp
+of the pyramids.--Rare and new plants  collected there</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter08">CHAPTER VIII.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-13">(Having reference to Map V.)</a> and <a href="#trop-10">(Having reference to Map Map IV.)</a><br><br>
+
+Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount
+Faraday.--Valley of the Warregò.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp over
+the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranòa.--The river found to be near our former
+track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle tracks.--Arrival at
+the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--during our absence.--Plants
+gathered at the depôt camp.--New plants.--Fossils
+at Mount Sowerby.--Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the
+depôt camp following the course of the Maranòa.--Discovery of a fine open
+country.--Numbered trees at camps.--The country on the Maranòa.--Singular
+habits of a fish.--Name of river obtained from good authority.--The
+Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at
+length discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive
+at the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter09">CHAPTER IX.</a><br></h4>
+
+<blockquote>
+<a href="#trop-07">(Having reference to Map III.)</a><br><br>
+
+Despatches sent forward.--Acquisitions
+during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The party crosses the
+Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle stations.--Heavy
+rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a hill.--Dam thrown up.--The
+waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival at the Barwan.--A
+flood.--Cross the Màal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount Riddell
+recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A stockman.
+--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X.</a></h4>
+
+<blockquote>Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of
+the Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire, kangaroos,
+and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--Experiment worth
+trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the party.--Of convicts
+generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--capabilities of soil and
+climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division and appropriation of the
+territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india</blockquote>
+
+<h4><a href="#trop-29">MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA</a></h4>
+
+<h4><a href="#appendix">APPENDIX.</a></h4>
+
+<blockquote>The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--Letter,
+dated 28th October, 1830<br><br>
+
+Systematical List of Plants</blockquote>
+
+<h3>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h3>
+
+<p><a href="#trop-01">Flood coming down the Macquarie</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-02">Map I. The Indian Archipelago</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-03">Portrait of Bultje</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-04">Remnant of the Bogan tribe</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-05">Map II. The Rivers Bogan and Macquarie</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-06">First use of the boats</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-07">Map III. The Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-08">Separation of the Balonne into the Culgoa, Narran, etc.</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-09">The River Balonne, 7th April</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-10">Map IV. Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-11">The Bottle tree, DELABECHEA</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-12">The black awaiting the white</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-13">Map V. The country and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the River Victoria</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-14">Tree without branches</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-15">The Pyramids</a><br>
+Martin's Range<br>
+<a href="#trop-17">Tower Almond</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-18">Map VI. The River Belyando</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-19">Missile club of natives of Central Australia</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-20">Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?)</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-21">The River Salvator, 5th Sept.</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-22">Lindley's Range</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-23">Old native female</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-24">Aboriginal dance</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-25">View on the River Maranòa</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-26">Acacia VARIANS</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-27">St. Georgia's Bridge</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-28">Last use of the boats</a><br>
+<a href="#trop-29">Map VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries</a></p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-02"></a><img alt="" src="trop-02.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map I. The Indian Archipelago</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<h3>JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.</h3>
+
+<a name="chapter01"></a>
+<h4>Chapter I.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
+STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED
+POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM
+SYDNEY.--A SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET
+AN OLD ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN
+RIVER.--YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY
+OF WATER.--THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY
+FATE OF THE BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER
+FORWARD.--DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS
+DIE FROM THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN,
+BY MOVING TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH
+THE PARTY.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
+first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
+entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
+part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
+development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The
+same direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the
+Royal Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a
+committee of the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most
+desirable to pursue at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony
+from distress found favour with the public.
+
+<p>At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
+islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
+industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
+themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Which mock'd their scant manurings,<br>
+and requir'd <i>more hands than theirs</i> to prune their wanton growth."</blockquote>
+
+<p>The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward,
+"al nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.],"
+seemed to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the
+wayward fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern
+extremity of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis
+incognita." The character of the interior of that country still remained
+unknown, the largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere
+exploration, the colonists of New South Wales might not have been very
+anxious just at that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical
+knowledge could be combined with that of exploring a route towards
+the nearest part of the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait,
+it was easy to awaken the attention of the Australian public to the
+importance of such an enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount
+the Indian cavalry had commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of
+Torres Straits had been injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided
+by any overland route from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+<p>But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
+South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
+shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with
+England by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by
+land, was an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In
+short, the commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the
+direct road home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the
+discovery of a good overland route between Sydney and the head of the
+Gulf of Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be
+introduced from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
+
+<p>In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
+the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to the
+settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-île forming the furthest point
+of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
+therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that
+of the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a
+considerable river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+<p>My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
+submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
+His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
+reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
+should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
+Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more
+money than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards
+the expense of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it.
+His Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
+the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
+still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
+to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
+interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
+which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
+despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
+and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six
+persons who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not
+been heard of, and were supposed to have either perished or been
+destroyed by natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from
+Port Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
+shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
+
+<p>The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated,
+favourable to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still
+declined to allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any
+reason for keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it
+became known in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed,
+with the express sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring
+expedition from Adelaide into the northern interior of Australia, and that
+he was actually then in New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had
+expressed, in one of his early despatches to the British Government, his
+readiness to encourage such an undertaking as that, and stated that "no
+one came forward to claim the honour of such an enterprise;" yet now
+that Lord Stanley had sanctioned the plan of the Surveyor General,
+whose duty it was to survey the country, he refused to allow this officer
+to proceed. The Legislative Council, however, renewed the petition for
+this undertaking, to which the Governor at length assented, in 1845; and
+the sum of 2000L. was unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but
+with the clear understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of
+the Surveyor General should be adopted.
+
+<p>The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new.
+The journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report
+that a large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
+accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
+still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first papers
+published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
+suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
+Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by
+a map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
+
+<p>In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
+land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
+bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
+preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
+greater number of men, were considered objections; while many
+experienced persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more
+enduring than horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.]
+Eight drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood:
+four of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
+Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two parts,
+on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party moved off
+from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.
+
+<p>I joined the party encamped at Buree on the 13th of December, having
+rode there from Sydney in four and a half days, and on the following
+Monday, 15th of December, 1845, I put it in motion towards the interior.
+The Exploring party now consisted of the following persons:--
+
+<pre>
+SIR T. L. MITCHELL, Kt., Surveyor General, Chief of the Expedition.
+EDMUND B. KENNEDY, Esq. Assistant Surveyor, Second in command.
+W. STEPHENSON, M.R.C.S.L. Surgeon and Collector of objects of Natural History.
+PETER M'AVOY, Mounted Videttes.
+Charles Niblett,
+William Graham,
+ANTHONY BROWN, Tent-keeper.
+WILLIAM BALDOCK, In charge of the horses.
+John Waugh Drysdale, Store-keeper.
+Allan Bond, Bullock-drivers.
+Edward Taylor,
+William Bond,
+William Mortimer,
+George Allcot,
+John Slater,
+Richard Horton,
+Felix Maguire,
+James Stephens, Carpenters.
+Job Stanley,
+Edward Wilson, Blacksmith.
+George Fowkes, Shoemaker.
+John Douglas, Barometer carrier.
+Isaac Reid, Sailor and Chainman.
+Andrew Higgs, Chainman.
+William Hunter, With the horses.
+Thomas Smith,
+Patrick Travers, Carter and Pioneer.
+Douglas Arnott, Shepherd and Butcher.
+Arthur Bristol, Sailmaker and Sailor.
+
+8 drays, drawn by 80 bullocks; 2 boats; 13 horses; 4 private do.; and 3
+light carts, comprised the means of conveyance; and the party was
+provided with provisions for a year:--250 sheep (to travel with the
+party), constituting the chief part of the animal food. The rest consisted
+of gelatine, and a small quantity of pork.
+</pre>
+
+<p>
+With the exception of a few whose names are printed in italics, the
+party consisted of prisoners of the Crown in different stages of probation,
+with whom the prospect of additional liberty was an incentive so
+powerful, that no money payment was asked by them or expected, while,
+from experience, I knew that for such an enterprise as this I could rely on
+their zealous services. The patience and resolution of such men in the
+face of difficulties, I had already witnessed; and I had hired three of the
+old hands, in order the more readily to introduce my accustomed camp
+arrangements. Volunteers of all classes had certainly come eagerly
+forward, offering their gratuitous services on this expedition of
+discovery; but discipline and implicit obedience were necessary in such a
+party to ensure the objects in view, as well as its own preservation; and it
+was not judged expedient, where some prisoners were indispensable as
+mechanics, to mix with them men of a different class, over whom the
+same kind of authority could not be exercised.
+
+<p>Following the same road by which I quitted Buree, in 1835, my former
+line of route across Hervey's Range lay to the left. The party thus arrived
+at Bramadura, a sheep station occupied by Mr. Boyd. It was on the same
+chain of ponds crossed by me on the journey of 1835, and then named
+Dochendoras Creek, but now known as the Mundadgery chain of ponds.
+These ponds had been filled by heavy rains which fell on Tuesday the
+9th December--the day on which I left Sydney, where the weather had
+been clear and sultry. A tornado or hurricane had, on the same day,
+levelled part of the forest near this place, laying prostrate the largest
+trees, one side of which was completely barked by the hailstones. Many
+branches of trees along the line of route, showed that the wind had been
+very violent to a considerable distance.
+
+<p>16TH DECEMBER.--Some of the bullocks missing: the party could not,
+therefore, quit the camp until 11 o'clock. The passage of the bed of the
+chain of ponds (which we travelled up) was frequently necessary, and
+difficult for heavily laden drays, which I found ours were, owing, chiefly
+to a superabundance of flour, above the quantity I intended to have taken,
+but supplied to my party, and brought forty miles by my drays before my
+arrival at the camp.
+
+<p>We halted at another sheep station of Mr. Boyd's. Here I perceived that
+Horehound grew abundantly; and I was assured by Mr. Parkinson, a
+gentleman in charge of these stations, that this plant springs up at all
+sheep and cattle stations throughout the colony, a remarkable fact, which
+may assist to explain another, namely, the appearance of the Couchgrass,
+or Dog's-tooth-grass, wherever the white man sets his foot,
+although previously unknown in these regions.
+
+<p>17TH DECEMBER.--Set off about 7 a.m. and travelled along a good
+road, for about 6 miles. Then, at a sheep station, we crossed the chain of
+ponds, following a road leading to Dr. Ramsay's head station, called
+Balderudgery. Leaving that road, and, at 7 miles, taking to the left, we
+finally encamped on Spring Creek, after a journey of about 9 miles. We
+had passed over what I should have called a poor sort of country, but
+everywhere it was taken up for sheep; and these looked fat; yet not a
+blade of grass could be seen; and, but for the late timely supply of rain, it
+had been in contemplation to withdraw these flocks to the Macquarie.
+
+<p>Calling at a shepherd's hut to ask the way, an Irish woman appeared
+with a child at her breast and another by her side: she was hut-keeper.
+She had been there two years, and only complained that they had never
+been able to get any potatoes to plant. She and her husband were about to
+leave the place next day, and they seemed uncertain as to where they
+should go. Two miles further on, a shoemaker came to the door of a hut,
+and accompanied me to set me on the right road. I inquired how he found
+work in these wild parts. He said, he could get plenty of work, but very
+little money; that it was chiefly contract work he lived by: he supplied
+sheep-owners with shoes for their men, at so much per pair. His
+conversation was about the difficulty a poor man had in providing for his
+family. He had once possessed about forty cows, which he had been
+obliged to entrust to the care of another man, at 5S. per head. This man
+neglected them: they were impounded and sold as unlicensed cattle under
+the new regulations.
+
+<p>"So you saw no more of them?"
+
+<p>"Oh, yes, your honour, I saw some of them <i>after they had been sold at
+the pound</i>!--I wanted to have had something provided for a small
+family of children, and if I had only had a few acres of ground, I could
+have kept my cows."
+
+<p>This was merely a passing remark made with a laugh as we walked
+along, for he was one of the race--</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Who march to death with military glee."</blockquote>
+
+<p>But the fate of a poor man's family was a serious subject: such was the
+hopeless condition of a useful mechanic ready for work even in the
+desolate forests skirting the haunts of the savage. So fares it with the
+<i>disjecta membra</i> of towns and villages, when such arrangements are left
+to the people themselves in a new colony.
+
+<p>18TH DECEMBER.--The party moved off about 7 a.m., and continued
+along a tolerable road, crossing what shepherds called Seven Mile Creek,
+in which there was some water; and a little further on we quitted the
+good beaten road leading to Balderudgery, and followed one to the left,
+which brought us to another sheep station on the same chain of ponds,
+three miles higher up than Balderudgery. Having directed the party to
+encamp here, I pursued the road south-westward along the chain of
+ponds, anxious to ascertain whether I could in that direction pass easily
+to the westward of Hervey's Range, and so fall into my former line of
+route to the Bogan. At about five miles I found an excellent opening
+through which the road passed on ground almost level. Having ascended
+a small eminence on the right, I fell in with some natives with spears,
+who seemed to recognise me, by pointing to my old line of route, and
+saying, "Majy Majy" (Major Mitchell). I little thought then that this was
+already an outlying picquet of the Bogan Blacks, sent forward to observe
+my party. The day was hot, therm. 97° in the shade. The chain of ponds,
+there called "the Little River," contained water in abundance, and was
+said to flow into the Macquarie, in which case the Bogan can have but
+few sources in Hervey's Range.
+
+<p>The station beside which we had encamped, comprised a stock yard,
+and had been formerly a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kite. It was now
+a sheep station of Dr. Ramsay's, and there was another sheep station a
+mile and a half from it, along the road I had examined. Thus the country
+suitable for either kind of stock is taken up by the gradual encroachment
+of sheep on cattle runs, not properly such. This easily takes place--as
+where sheep feed, cattle will not remain, and sheep will fatten where
+cattle would lose flesh. Fortunately, however, for the holders of the latter
+description of stock, there are limits to this kind of encroachment. The
+plains to the westward of these ranges afford the most nutritive pasturage
+in the world for cattle, and they are too flat and subject to inundations to
+be desirable for sheep. A zone of country of this description lies on the
+interior side of the ranges, as far as I have examined them. It is watered
+by the sources of the rivers Goulburn, Ovens, Murray, Murrumbidgee,
+Lachlan, Bogan, Macquarie, Castlereagh, Nammoy, Peel, Gwydir, and
+Darling; on which rivers the runs will always make cattle fat. There are
+two shrubs palpably salt, and, perhaps, there is something salsolaceous in
+the herbage also on which cattle thrive so well; and the open plains and
+muddy waterholes are their delight. Excessive drought, however, may
+occasionally reduce the owners of such stock to great extremities, and
+subject them to serious loss. The Acacia pendula, a tree whose <i>habitat</i> is
+limited and remarkable, is much relished by the cattle. It is found only in
+clay soils, on the borders of plains, which are occasionally so saturated
+with water as to be quite impassable; never on higher ground nor on any
+lower than that limited sort of locality, in the neighbourhood of rivers
+which at some seasons overflow. In such situations, even where grass
+seems very scarce, cattle get fat; and it is a practice of stockmen to cut
+down the Acacia pendula (or Myall trees, as they call them) for the cattle
+to feed on.
+
+<p>At this sheep station where we had encamped, I met with an individual
+who had seen better days, and had lost his property amid the wreck of
+colonial bankruptcies--a tea-totaller, with Pope's Essay on Man for his
+consolation, in a bark hut. This "melancholy Jaques" lamented the state
+of depravity to which the colony was reduced, and assured me that there
+were shepherdesses in the bush! This startling fact should not be
+startling, but for the disproportion of sexes, and the squatting system
+which checks the spread of families. If pastoralisation were not one
+thing, and colonisation another, the occupation of tending sheep should
+be as fit and proper for women as for men. The pastoral life, so
+favourable to love and the enjoyment of nature, has ever been a favourite
+theme of the poet. Here it appears to be the antidote of all poetry and
+propriety, only because man's better half is wanting. Under this
+unfavourable aspect the white man first comes before the aboriginal
+native; were the intruders accompanied by women and children, they
+could not be half so unwelcome. One of the most striking differences
+between squatting and settling in Australia consists in this. Indeed if it
+were an object to uncivilise the human race, I know of no method more
+likely to effect it than to isolate a man from the gentler sex and children;
+remove afar off all courts of justice and means of redress of grievances,
+all churches and schools, all shops where he can make use of money,
+then place him in close contact with savages. "What better off am I than
+a black native?" was the exclamation of a shepherd to me just before I
+penned these remarks.
+
+<p>19TH DECEMBER.--The party moved along the road I had previously
+examined. On passing through to the western side, I recognised the trees,
+plants, and birds of the interior regions. Granitic hills appeared on each
+side, and the sweet-scented Callitris grew around, with many a curious
+shrub never seen to the eastward of these ranges. On descending, grassy
+valleys, with gullies containing little or no water, reminded me of former
+difficulties in the same vicinity, and it was not until we had travelled
+upwards of sixteen miles that I could encamp near water. This consisted
+of some very muddy holes of the Goobang Creek, on which I had formerly
+been pleasantly encamped with Mr. Cunningham. [* See Vol. I. of Three
+Expeditions, etc., page 171.] Two or three natives soon made their
+appearance, one of whom I immediately recognised to be my old friend Bultje,
+who had guided me from thence to the Bené Rocks, on my former journey along
+the Bogan. He brought an offering of honey. Ten years had elapsed since I
+formerly met the same native in the same valley, and time had made no
+alteration in his appearance. With the same readiness to forward my views
+that he formerly evinced, he informed me where the water was to be found;
+and how I should travel so as to fall in with my former route, by the least
+possible <i>détour</i>. Mount Laidley bore 23° E. of N.
+
+<p>20TH DECEMBER.--This day I gave the cattle a rest, as the grass
+seemed good, while I rode to look at my old line of marked trees. A
+cattle station (of Mr. Kite) was within a mile and a half of our camp, and
+at about three miles below it, I fell in with the former line. Where it
+crossed the Goobang, a track still continued by them, but finally
+diverged, leaving the line of marked trees, without the slightest trace of
+the wheels or hoofs that had formerly passed by it. Reaching a hill laid
+down on my former survey, and from which I recognised Mount Laidley,
+I returned directly to the camp. We had encamped near those very
+springs mentioned as seen on my former journey, but instead of being
+limpid and surrounded by verdant grass, as they had been then, they were
+now trodden by cattle into muddy holes, where the poor natives had been
+endeavouring to protect a small portion from the cattle's feet, and keep it
+pure, by laying over it trees they had cut down for the purpose. The
+change produced in the aspect of this formerly happy secluded valley, by
+the intrusion of cattle and the white man, was by no means favourable,
+and I could easily conceive how I, had I been an aboriginal native,
+should have felt and regretted that change. The springs which issue from
+the level plains of clay, while the bed of the water-course some twenty
+feet lower continues dry and dusty, are numerous. One had a strong taste
+of sulphur, and might probably be as salubrious as other springs more
+celebrated. They show that, in this country at least, the water-courses are
+not supplied by springs, but depend wholly on heavy torrents of rain
+descending from the mountains. Some holes in the bed of the Goobang
+Creek did however retain some water which had fallen during the last
+rain. The thermometer stood at 107° in the tent.
+
+<p>21ST DECEMBER.--Guided by my old friend Bultje, we pursued a
+straight line of route through the forest to Currandong, which was half
+way to the Bogan. We passed over a very open, gently undulating
+country, just heading a gully called Brotherba--showing how well our
+guide knew the country--and we reached Currandong at 2 o'clock. Here
+also were two flocks belonging to Dr. Ramsay; Balderudgery, the head
+station, being fifteen miles distant, by a mountain road through a gap.
+While travelling this day, Corporal Graham overtook me with letters
+from Buree, and a cart had also been sent after us by Mr. Barton with a
+small supply of corn. That country is considered excellent as a fattening
+run for sheep; the shepherd told me they there find a salt plant, which
+keeps them in excellent condition and heart for feeding. The scarcity of
+water at some seasons occasions a conversion here of cattle runs into
+sheep runs, and VICE VERSÂ, a contingency which seems to render these
+lands of Hervey's range of temporary and uncertain value.
+
+<p>22D DECEMBER.--Guided by Bultje we continued to follow down the
+little chain of ponds which, as he said, led to the Bogan. The road was
+good--the Currandong ponds running in a general direction about N. N.
+W. It was the first of the sources of the Bogan we had reached. Crossing
+at length to its left bank, near an old lambing station of Dr. Ramsay's, we
+further on came to a large plain with the Yarra trees of the Bogan upon
+its western skirts. Some large lagoons on the eastern side of the plains
+had been filled by the late rains, and cattle lay beside them. We at length
+arrived in sight of a cattle station of Mr. Templar's, called Ganànaguy,
+and encamped on the margin of a plain opposite to it. The cattle here
+looked very fat, and although the herd comprised about 2000 head, there
+was abundance of grass. The Bogan thus first appeared on our left hand,
+and must have its sources in the comparatively low hills, about the
+country crossed by my former line of route, rather than in Hervey's or
+Croker's ranges, as formerly supposed. The water in the ponds of the
+Bogan seemed low.
+
+<p>This fine grazing country had been abandoned more than once from the
+failure of the water, and yet these ponds seemed capable of holding an
+almost inexhaustible supply. A single dam would have retained the water
+for miles, the Bogan always flowing through clay in a bed of uniform
+width and depth like a canal. No doubt a little art and labour would be
+sufficient to render the land permanently habitable: but on an uncertain
+tenure this remedy was not likely to be applied, and therefore the
+sovereignty of art's dominion remained unasserted there. The incursions
+of the savage, who is learning to "bide his time" on the Darling, are
+greatly encouraged by the hardships of the colonists when water is
+scarce; and I was shown where no less than 800 head of fat bullocks had
+been run together by them when water was too abundant. Then horses
+cannot travel, and cattle stick fast in the soft earth and are thus at the
+mercy of the natives. The stone ovens, such as they prepare for cooking
+kangaroos, had been used for the consumption of about twenty head of
+cattle a day, by the wild tribes who had assembled from the Darling and
+lower Bogan on that occasion. Thermometer in tent 109° at noon, wind
+W.N.W.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-03"></a><img alt="" src="trop-03.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Portrait of Bultje</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>23D DECEMBER.--We crossed the Bogan (flowing eastward) at Mr.
+Templar's station at Ganànaguy, and the overseer most hospitably stood
+by the party as it passed with a bucket of milk, of which he gave a drink
+to each of the men. Bultje put us on the right road to the next nearest
+water-holes (Mr. Gilmore's station), and having rendered me the service
+he promised, I gave him the tomahawk, pipe, and two figs of tobacco
+promised him, and also took a sketch of his singularly Socratic face. This
+native got a bad name from various stockmen, as having been implicated
+in the murder of Mr. Cunningham. Nothing could be more unfounded;
+and it must indeed require in a man so situated the wisdom of a Socrates
+to maintain his footing, or indeed his life, between the ignorant stockmen
+or shepherds on one hand, and the savage tribes on the other. These latter
+savages naturally regard those who are half civilised, in the same light as
+we should look on deserters to the enemy, and are extremely hostile to
+them, while perhaps even his very usefulness to our party had most
+unjustly connected this native's name with the murder of one of our
+number. His laconic manner and want of language would not admit of
+any clear explanation of how much he had done to serve our race--and
+the difficulties he had to encounter with his own; while the circumstance
+of his having been met with at an interval of ten years in the same valley
+in a domesticated state, if it did not establish any claim to the soil, at
+least proved his strong attachment to it, and a settled disposition. Much
+tact must be necessary on his part to avoid those savages coming by
+stealth to carry off his gins; and to escape the wrath of white men, when
+aroused by the aggressions of wild tribes to get up a sort of foray to save
+or recover their own. How Bultje has survived through all this, without
+having nine lives like a cat, still to gather honey in his own valley,
+"surpasseth me to know."
+
+<p>We encamped at two large water-holes of the Bogan near Mr.
+Gilmore's station, and the overseer sent to the men two buckets of milk.
+At the station a well had been made to the depth of eighty feet, but a
+flood had come, and risen so high as to wash in the sides and so fill up
+the well. The workmen had passed through yellow clay chiefly, and the
+clay was wet and soft when the further sinking was interrupted.
+Thermometer in my tent 109°, wind W. N. W.
+
+<p>24TH DECEMBER. A lurid haze hung among the trees as the earliest
+sunbeams shot down amongst them. The party were ready to move off
+early, but the progress was slow from various impediments. A hot wind
+blew like a blast furnace. A bullock dropt down dead at the yoke. We
+encamped on the Currandong, or Back Creek, near a small plain, after
+travelling about ten miles. Thermometer in tent, 103.° Hot wind from the
+west.
+
+<p>25TH DECEMBER. Halted to rest the cattle. The wind blew this day more
+from the northward, and was cooler. Thermometer in tent, 107°.
+
+<p>26TH DECEMBER.--Proceeded to Graddle, a cattle station belonging to
+Mr. Coss, 2½ miles. Thermometer, 109°.
+
+<p>27TH DECEMBER.--The bullock-drivers having allowed twenty-two of
+the bullocks to stray, it was impossible to proceed.
+
+<p>At early morning the sky was overcast, the weather calm, a slight wind
+from the west carried off these clouds, and at about eleven a very hot
+wind set in. The thermometer in my tent stood at 117°, and when
+exposed to the wind rose rapidly to 129°, when I feared the thermometer
+would break as it only reached to 132°.
+
+<p>28TH DECEMBER.--All the cattle having been recovered, we set off
+early, accompanied by a stockman from Graddle, Mr. Coss's station. The
+day was excessively warm, a hot wind blowing from the west. We finally
+encamped on the Bogan, at a very muddy water-hole, after travelling
+eleven miles. Thermometer in tent, 115°. At half past five, the sky
+became overcast, and the hot wind increased to a violent gust, and
+suddenly fell. I found that tartaric acid would precipitate the mud,
+leaving a jug of the water tolerably clear, but then the acid remained.
+Towards evening the sky was overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The
+night was uncommonly hot. At ten the thermometer stood at 102°, and at
+day-break at 90°.
+
+<p>29TH DECEMBER.--The remaining water was so muddy that the cattle
+would no longer drink it. The sky was overcast, with the wind from
+south. Finding a cart road near our camp, I lost no time in conducting the
+lighter portion of our equipment to Mr. Kerr's station at Derribong. In the
+hollows I saw, for the first time on this journey, the <i>Polygonum junceum</i>,
+reminding me of the river Darling, and on the plains a <i>Solanum</i> in
+flower, of which I had only seen the apple formerly. At length, greener
+grass indicated that the late rains had fallen more heavily there, and at
+about twelve miles I reached the station situated on a rather clear and
+elevated part of the right bank of the Bogan. Here the stock of water had
+been augmented by a small dam, and a channel cut from a hollow part of
+the clay surface conducted any rain water into the principal pool, where
+the water was very good. We had now arrived at the lowest station on the
+Bogan. The line of demarcation between the squatter and the savage had
+been once much lower down, at Mudà, and even at Nyingan (see <i>infra</i>),
+but the incursions of the blacks had rendered these lower stations
+untenable, without more support than the Colonial government was able
+to afford. There, at least, the squatter is not only not the real discoverer
+of the country, but not even the occupier of what had been discovered.
+The map will illustrate how it happens that the colonists cannot keep
+their ground here from the marauding disposition of the savage tribes.
+[* See map of Eastern Australia--<i>infra</i>.] The Darling is peopled more
+permanently by these natives, than perhaps any other part of Australia:
+affording as it does a more certain supply of food. It is only in
+seasons of very high flood that this food, the fish, cannot be got
+at, and that they are obliged to resort to the higher country at such
+seasons, between the Darling, the Lachlan, and the Bogan. It also
+happens that the cattle of the squatter are most accessible from the soft
+state of the ground; the stockmen cannot even ride to protect them. The
+tribes from the Lachlan and Macquarie meet on these higher lands, and
+when tribes assemble they are generally ready for any mischief. The
+Bogan is particularly within their reach, and when wet seasons do occur
+the cattle of squatters must be very much at the mercy of the savages.
+The tribes from the Darling are extremely hostile, even to the more
+peaceably disposed hilltribes near the colony, and several stations have
+already been abandoned in consequence of the outrages of the aborigines
+from the Darling and Lachlan. Nothing is so likely to increase these evils
+as the precarious or temporary occupation of such a country. The supply
+of water must continue uncertain so long as there is no inducement from
+actual possession to form dams, and by means of art to secure the full
+benefit of the natural supply. Hence it is that half a million of acres,
+covered with the finest grass, have been abandoned, and even savages
+smile at the want of generalship by which they have been allowed to
+burn the white man's dairy station and stockyards on the banks of the
+Bogan. The establishment of a police station near the junction of the
+Bogan with the Darling, or the formation of an inland township about
+Fort Bourke, had been sufficient to have secured the stations along the
+Bogan and Macquarie, and to have protected the Bogan natives as well
+as our own countrymen from frequent robbery, murder, and insult. Such
+are the results where <i>squatting</i> has been permitted to supersede settling.
+With possession, deficiency of water in dry seasons had been remedied,
+and no such debateable land had remained on the borders of a British
+colony.
+
+<p>The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
+that between our present camp and Mudà, a very large lagoon about 50
+miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206 feet
+in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the Bogan is
+only 50 feet between Mudà and New Year's Range, in a distance of
+upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Mudà
+from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
+general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which the
+overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and other
+channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where the
+declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in the
+channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither flow with
+so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by which ponds
+are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this part,
+during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about double
+the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
+
+<p>I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
+Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require to
+take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
+having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas the
+working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
+journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
+young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
+break them in as we proceeded.
+
+<p>30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool
+morning. Thermometer, 68°. This day we selected from the herds of Mr.
+Kerr 32 young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the
+stockyard.
+
+<p>Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
+
+<p>31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 a.m., 62°: at noon, 109°.
+Wind S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately
+avoiding the tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the
+air, also some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much
+wanted for the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in
+the evening.
+
+<p>1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day,
+and was very high at 11 a.m. The party were chiefly employed breaking
+in the young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with
+the hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
+evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
+<i>Atriplex semibaccata</i> of Brown was a common straggling plant.
+
+<p>2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning
+was cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the
+clouds, which resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat
+again. Besides the <i>Salsola australis</i>, we found a <i>Halgania</i> with lilac
+flowers, probably distinct from the species hitherto described, which are
+natives of the south-west coast.
+
+<p>3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the
+old; and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in
+the Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to
+the scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the
+first hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named
+Mount Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The
+little pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of
+Cunningham was so identified with the botanical history of almost all the
+shrubs in the very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no
+other monument seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled
+Cunningham to my mind; his barbarous murder, and the uncertainty
+which still hung over the actual circumstances attending it. The shrubs
+told indeed of Cunningham; of both brothers, both now dead; but neither
+the shrubs named by the one, nor the gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had
+witnessed the bloody deed, could tell more. There the <i>Acacia pendula</i>,
+first discovered and described by Allan, could only</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand,<br>
+For ever silent, and for ever sad."</blockquote>
+
+<p>4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with
+the young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of
+conveyance was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no
+pecuniary saving would compensate, as compared with light carts and
+horses. I proceeded forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called
+Tabbaratong, where some water was said still to remain. We found some
+mud and water only; although some that was excellent was found about
+two miles lower down the Bogan, late in the evening.
+
+<p>We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the
+squatter. The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and
+humiliating proofs that the white man had given way, were visible in the
+remains of dairies burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We
+hoped to find within the territory of the native, ponds of clear water,
+unsoiled by cattle, and a surface on which we might track our own stray
+animals, without their being confused by the traces of others.
+
+<p>5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the
+night, retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
+brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
+native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light
+carts, guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old,
+who had come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native
+of the lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our
+route was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of <I>Callitris</I> and
+other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
+thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
+through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
+The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
+route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
+native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
+driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
+which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
+downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
+on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
+but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabadà
+and Mudà, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
+the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
+arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabadà ponds. The water was
+however excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days,
+and we hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only
+arrived at as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The
+drays with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock
+and Yuranigh back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without
+water, and that I wished him, if still <i>en route</i>, immediately to unyoke the
+cattle, encamp on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes
+during the night, and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes
+I had found near Bugabadà. We passed a miserable night without water
+at Cadduldury.
+
+<p>6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a
+message from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I
+went forward with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 a.m..
+The morning happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of
+water and food the preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John
+Douglas and Isaac Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at
+the first water-hole. But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy
+loads thus far in the extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to
+me. William Baldock again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of
+water on a horse, a horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the
+drays, the drivers of which were almost frantic and unable to do their
+work from thirst. He brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still
+remained at his encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the
+drivers (Mortimer and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes,
+and chains, to escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to
+watch his own team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune
+to the whole party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as
+my camp, but I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the
+water, which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left
+with the drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the
+water, and the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr.
+Stephenson, who had hastened back with several bottles, relieved his
+thirst, and, as the man said, "saved his life."
+
+<p>Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
+hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
+the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
+heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
+however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with
+which I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably
+disposed towards us.
+
+<p>7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare
+bullocks, having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during
+the night. The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part
+of the other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in
+charge of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would
+also have gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr.
+Kennedy sent him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays
+carrying the provisions had not come up, and my party too was short.
+The day surpassed in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon
+in the shade stood at 109°, a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr.
+Kennedy was distant at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabadà.
+
+<p>The six drays came in about 4 p.m.; the sheep not until long after
+dark. Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr.
+Kennedy, and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement
+for drawing forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care
+of, and which was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the
+evening of next day, to be attached on their arrival to the two drays with
+which they were to come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest
+of the night, until they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined
+to meet them early next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it
+was not my intention to send after the four stray bullocks until the drays
+came in, and the party could be again united. Thermometer again 109° in
+the shade all day.
+
+<p>The <i>Calotis cuneifolia</i> was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was
+the common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
+capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
+reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are found
+so troublesome among the wool.
+
+<p>8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he
+had found him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from
+want of water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to
+a young dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated
+that a tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind.
+Baldock had seen several bullocks dead on the way.
+
+In the evening the two first teams were sent off as arranged. This day
+had also been very sultry, especially towards evening.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-04"></a><img alt="" src="trop-04.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Remnant of the Bogan tribe</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were
+despatched as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered
+the camp. We had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances,
+to suffer so little loss, and I determined never to move the party again,
+until I could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I
+had been previously assured by the young native that water was still to
+be found at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal
+to the whole party.
+
+<p>On the banks of the Bogan, the <i>Atriplex hagnoides</i> formed a round
+white-looking bush.
+
+<p>I rode forward to Mudà, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper,
+and had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who
+remembered my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show
+me my old track and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the
+northward of my present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had
+been killed in a fight with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before.
+Two old grey-haired men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed
+out to me as his brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that
+I had at first imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on
+their hams opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and
+grey, and melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
+
+<p>The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
+struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
+Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
+natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of the
+tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives were
+chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
+
+<p>The natives of Mudà assured me there was no water nearer than
+Nyingan, a large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct
+line lower down the Bogan. The ponds of Mudà, their great store of
+water, and known to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were
+alarmingly low, and it became evident that our progress under such a
+scarcity of water would be attended with difficulty. These natives gave
+us also a friendly hint that "<i>gentlemen</i>" should be careful of the spears of
+the natives of Nyingan, as many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately
+by white men from Wellington Valley.
+
+<p>Among the woods we observed the white-flowered <i>Teucrium racemosum</i>,
+the <i>Justicia media</i>, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink
+flowers; also a <i>Stenochilus</i> and <i>Fusanus</i> (the Quandang), although not in
+fruit; a new species of <i>Stipa</i>, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse
+rough herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in
+the way of <i>C. truncata</i>, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed pales,[**]
+and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new <i>Eremophila</i> with
+white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The beautiful
+<i>Damasonium ovalifolium</i>, with white flowers red in the centre, still
+existed in the water.
+
+<p>[* <i>S. scabra</i> (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi villosis,
+glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis involutis culmis
+brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligulâ oblongâ subciliatâ.]
+
+<p>[** <i>C. sclerantha</i> (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris tactu
+scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque breviaristato
+cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili vacuo.]
+
+<p>[*** <i>E. mitchelli</i> (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis linearibus
+planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4 superioribus
+subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
+
+<p>In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
+the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
+was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
+track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
+following it further.
+
+<p>I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
+out present camp near Bugabadà was in latitude 31° 56', and thus very
+near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
+terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90°; at 9 p.m., 70°; with wet bulb,
+63°.
+
+<p>10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to
+the S. W. in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I
+sent William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the
+stray bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track
+to Mudà, where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and
+sheep, already arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of
+having been on watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell
+asleep, and that the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them,
+but lost himself. He had met one or two natives who offered him honey,
+etc. which he declined.
+
+<p>We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
+visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
+state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We
+had passed near Bugabadà similar remains of a cattle station. This
+position of Mudà was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank
+nearly clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
+surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
+last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of a
+young crop shooting up amongst it.
+
+<p>11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the
+cattle and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+<p>12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Mudà for the lost bullocks. To-day I
+noticed the <i>Kochia brevifolia</i>, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
+fruit, edged with pink.
+
+<p>13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning
+(by moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones)
+could not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr.
+Kerr's station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be
+found. We had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great
+scarcity of water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that
+our loss had been so slight.
+
+<p>I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
+Nyingan, which bore 353°--and having found a tolerably open country
+for about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and
+encamped, sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Mudà.
+Enough had been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the
+camp. To ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already
+stated, the paddock at Mudà, in which during this night, they could be
+secured, having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I
+found a new grass of the genus <i>Chloris</i>[*], something like <i>Chl. truncata</i> in
+habit, some starved specimens of <i>Trichinium lanatum</i>; amongst the
+grasses I also found the <i>Aristida calycina</i> of Brown, the curious
+<i>Neurachne mitchelliana</i> Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and
+also a new <i>Pappophorum</i> with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart
+shower fell during the evening.
+
+<p>[* <i>C. acicularis</i> (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris tactu
+scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque setaceo
+aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
+
+<p>[** <i>P. flavescens</i> (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis, spicâ
+compositâ densissimâ oblongâ, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis pilosis, foliis
+vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis villosis.]
+
+<p>14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Mudà, and were
+immediately yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on
+the same bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been
+encamped, I turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water
+there. I found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a
+journey of about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently
+found I had encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was
+guided by the friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his
+country afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I
+had cut off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a
+north-westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels
+will probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan
+may be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
+stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
+been burnt down.
+
+<p>15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day
+was fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
+found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
+the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
+Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
+An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the
+<i>Jasminum lineare</i>, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the
+water, I saw the <i>Alternanthera nodiflora</i>.
+
+<p>16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar,
+crossing the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked
+trees. We lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgabà, and
+made a slight détour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we
+encamped, and were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this
+day's journey Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen
+with those of the feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old
+track, and returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces
+of our party.
+
+<p>At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
+natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
+house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were
+sunken very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp
+had been established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look
+for the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
+my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
+thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water, but
+in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen, during
+the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
+
+<p>17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the
+native Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to
+the Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from
+that point to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water,
+provided this did not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by
+sunset. Two old women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by
+whom Piper was told that the nearest permanent water was "<i>niminé</i>,"
+where white men had attempted to form a cattle-station, and been
+prevented by natives from the Darling, many of whom had since been
+shot by the white men. They said the place was far beyond Canbelego,
+the next stage of my former journey, and where these women also said
+little or no water remained.
+
+<p>Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven a.m., having found water at
+Canbelego. Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the
+fruit of the <i>Capparis mitchellii</i>, which he called an apple, being new to
+him, but which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew,
+and said was called "<i>moguile</i>;" he also said that it was eaten by the
+natives.
+
+<p>18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two
+small ponds remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass
+than we had hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of
+water, we had been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again
+forward looking for water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and
+after following the river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was
+now within the same distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had
+found abundance of water when I sent him to survey it upwards during
+my last return journey up the Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in
+which Piper pointed, that the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as
+containing water; and as the course of that creek, so far as shown on
+maps, led even more directly to the Darling than did the Bogan, I was
+willing in such a season of extreme drought, to avail myself of its waters.
+My eye had been much injured by straining at stars while at the camp
+near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to send Mr. Kennedy on one of my
+own horses, followed by Graham, to examine the water in Duck Creek. I
+instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35° E. of North, until he should
+reach the creek, and if he found water in it to return direct to the camp,
+but that if water was not found on first making the creek, then he was to
+follow Duck Creek up to its junction with an eastern branch, surveyed
+also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence to the camp on a bearing of
+240°. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with Yuranigh down the Bogan, to
+ascertain if the channel contained any pond between our camp and the
+part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.
+
+<p>This officer returned from Duck Creek after an absence of twelve
+hours, and reported that he had found no water in Duck Creek after
+examining its bed twelve miles; but that he had found a fine lagoon on
+the plains near the head of the eastern branch, but around which there
+was no grass, all having been recently burnt.
+
+<p>20TH JANUARY.--Macavoy returned at seven a.m., saying he had been
+twenty-four miles down the Bogan without finding any water. About the
+same time Sergeant Niblett, in charge of the bullocks, came to inform me
+that these animals were looking very ill, and could not drink the mud
+remaining in the pond. At the same time intelligence was brought me that
+four of the horses had broken their tether ropes during the night, and that
+William Baldock had been absent in search of them on foot, from an
+early hour in the morning. I immediately sent back the whole of the
+bullocks to Nyingan, with a dray containing the empty harness casks,
+also the horses, and a cart carrying all our other empty casks; and the
+whole of the cattle and horses returned in the evening with all the casks
+filled.
+
+<p>21ST JANUARY.--Having again despatched the bullocks back to
+Nyingan, I conducted the light carts forward along my old track (of
+1835), having on two of these carts two of the half-boats, and in the carts
+under them all the water-kegs that had been filled. My object was to use
+the iron boat as a tank, at which we might water the bullocks at one stage
+forward; that by so gaining that point and proceeding onwards towards
+the water I hoped to find next day, we might encamp at least at such a
+convenient distance from it, as would admit of the cattle being driven
+forward to return next day and draw the drays to it. This I considered
+possible, even if it might be found necessary to go as far for water as the
+fine reach described in my journal as the place of my encampment on the
+14th May, 1835, beyond Mount Hopeless, and which I concluded from
+the gin's description, must have been what she called Nimine, or the
+disputed station of Lee. I encamped this party on a plain about twelve
+miles from Canbelego, where I had left Mr. Kennedy, with instructions
+to bring the drays on with the spare cattle and horses early next morning.
+I had sent thence Corporal Macavoy and Yuranigh to follow the track of
+Baldock and the horses; but it was obvious that we could remain no
+longer at Canbelego. As soon as we could set up one of the half-boats,
+the contents of the water-kegs were emptied into it, and the cart was
+immediately sent back with the empty kegs to Canbelego, where fresh
+horses had been left, to continue with the same cart and empty kegs to
+Nyingan during the night, so as to arrive in time to admit of the
+dray--already there with the harness casks--bringing an additional supply
+back in the kegs, when the bullocks returned next day.
+
+<p>It was now necessary that I should ascertain as soon as possible the
+state of the ponds lower down the Bogan, and thereupon determine at
+once, whether to follow that dry channel further in such a season, or to
+cross to the pond in Duck Creek, and await more favourable weather. I
+accordingly set out at 3 p.m., from where the water had been placed in
+the half-boat, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson, and followed by Corporal
+Graham and Dicky the native boy. By the advice of the latter, I rode from
+the camp in the direction of 30° E. of N., and, crossing the Bogan, we
+reached at about 3½ miles beyond it, a channel like it, which I supposed
+was Duck Creek; and in it, just where we made it, there was a small pond
+of water. Having refreshed our horses, we followed this channel
+downwards, without meeting with more water. To my surprise, I found
+the general direction was westward, until it <i>joined the bogan</i>. We next
+followed the course of the Bogan as long as daylight allowed us to do so,
+without discovering any indication that water had recently lodged in any
+of the hollows, and we finally tied up our horses and lay down to sleep,
+in hopes that next day might enable us to be more successful.
+
+<p>22D JANUARY.--Having proceeded some miles along the western
+bends of the Bogan, hastily--being desirous to see that day the great
+pond beyond Mount Hopeless--I observed that the clay was very
+shining and compact in a hollow sloping into an angle of the river-bed,
+that the grass was green as from recent rain, and that there was more
+chirping of birds; I was tempted once more by these indications, to look
+for water in the Bogan's almost hopeless channel, and there we found a
+pond, at sight of which poor Dicky shouted for joy; then drank, and fell
+asleep almost in the water. It was small, but being sufficient for our
+immediate wants, we thankfully refreshed our horses and ourselves, and
+proceeded on our eventful journey. Almost immediately after leaving this
+pond I discovered my old track, which we continued to follow across
+those large plains, whence I had formerly discovered Mount Hopeless.
+These plains I soon again recognized from the old tracks of my draywheels,
+distinctly visible in many places after a lapse of nearly eleven
+years. Arriving at length near the debateable land of Lee's old station, we
+resumed our examination of the Bogan. There we perceived old cattle
+tracks; the ovens in which the natives had roasted whole bullocks, and
+about their old encampments many heaps of bones; but in none of the
+deep beds of former ponds or lagoons could we discover any water. The
+grass was nevertheless excellent and abundant; and its waste, added to
+the distress the want of water occasioned us, made us doubly lament the
+absence of civilised inhabitants, by whose industry that rich pasture and
+fine soil could have been turned to good account. We saw no natives; nor
+were even kangaroos or emus to be seen, as formerly, any longer
+inhabitants of these parts. I turned at length, reluctantly, convinced that it
+would have been unsafe to venture with cattle and drays into these
+regions before rain fell. In returning, we at first found it difficult to find
+our old track, by which alone we could hope that night to reach the small
+pond of the morning; but Dr. Stephenson very fortunately found it, and
+we had also the good fortune, for so we considered it, to arrive at the
+pond before sunset. There we tied up our horses and lay down, glad
+indeed to have even that water before our eyes. Dicky, the native boy,
+had repeatedly thrown himself from his horse during the afternoon, quite
+ill from thirst.
+
+<p>23D JANUARY.--After our horses had drank, we left no water in the
+pond; but they had fed on good grass, and we were well refreshed,
+although with water only, for our ride back to the camp. Setting off from
+an old marked tree of mine near the Bogan, on a bearing of 160°, I
+several times during our ride fell in with the old track, and finally
+reached the camp after a rapid ride of four hours. I found the whole party
+had arrived the previous evening with the water, as arranged; but that Mr.
+Kennedy was absent, having set off that morning in search of water to
+the N. E. with Corporal Macavoy, on two government horses, leaving
+word that he should return by twelve o'clock. He did not return at that
+hour, however, and at two I moved the party across the Bogan, and
+proceeded along open plains towards the ponds at Duck Creek, with the
+intention of there refreshing the cattle and horses, and awaiting more
+favourable weather. I previously watered out of the half-boat, 106
+bullocks, and gave a quart to each of the horses. On the way, the heat
+was so intense that our three best and strongest kangaroo dogs died, and
+it was not until 10 p.m. that the drays reached the ponds where I had
+proposed to encamp. About an hour and a half before, Mr. Kennedy also
+came in, having galloped the two horses 66 miles, and hurt both their
+backs, Macavoy being a heavy man. At 9 p.m., therm. 80°, wet bulb,
+68°.
+
+<p>24TH JANUARY.--This morning I awoke completely blind, from
+ophthalmia, and was obliged to have poultices laid on my eyes; several
+of the men were also affected in the same manner. The exciting cause of
+this malady in an organ presenting a moist surface was, obviously, the
+warm air wholly devoid of moisture, and likely to produce the same
+effect until the weather changed. At 9 p.m., therm. 84°, with wet bulb,
+68°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-05"></a><img alt="" src="trop-05.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map II. The Rivers Bogan and Macquarie</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter02"></a>
+<h4>Chapter II.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>SEND TO NYINGAN FOR LEECHES.--BETTER PONDS FOUND TO THE NORTHEAST.--MOVE
+TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBÀ AND SET UP OUR BIVOUAC.--HOT WIND.--HEAT GREATER
+THAN MY TABLE FOR EXPANSION OF MERCURY WAS CALCULATED FOR.--PIPER'S
+INTENTION TO QUIT THE PARTY.--HIS SENT TO BATHURST.--WEATHER
+CHANGES.--RAIN.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS FROM THE MACQUARIE.--SALT MADE FROM
+THE SALT PLANT.--RECONNOITRE "DUCK CREEK."--THE PARTY QUITS
+CANNONBÀ--CROSSES PLAINS TO MARRA CREEK--AND THENCE TO THE RIVER
+MACQUARIE.--OPHTHALMIA STILL TROUBLESOME.--APPROACH OF A FLOOD
+ANNOUNCED.--ITS ARRIVAL IN CLEAR MOONLIGHT.--MR. KINGHORNE GUIDES THE
+PARTY ALONG THE REEDY BANKS.--NO WATER FOUND IN "DUCK CREEK."--DIFFICULTY
+OF WATERING THE CATTLE FROM SOFTNESS OF THE BANKS OF PONDS AMONGST
+THE REEDS.--"YULLIYALLY," A NATIVE, GUIDES THE PARTY.--NEW PLANTS
+DISCOVERED.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR NATIVE GUIDE.--CONDITION OF HIS
+COUNTRYMEN.--HOW AFFECTED BY THE INTRUSION OF THE WHITE RACE.--AT
+LENGTH EMERGE FROM THE REEDS.--WATER SCARCE.--NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING
+ABORIGINAL NAMES OF RIVERS.--DELAYED BY STRAY BULLOCKS SEVERAL DAYS.--AT
+LENGTH ARRIVE AT THE JUNCTION OF THE RIVER WITH THE DARLING.--CROSS THE
+MACQUARIE NEAR ITS JUNCTION--AND FORD THE DARLING AT WYÀBRY.</blockquote>
+
+<p>25TH JANUARY.--Dr. Stephenson having recommended the application
+of leeches, and having observed them in the ponds at Nyingan, I sent
+William Baldock and Yuranigh there in search of some, and they brought
+back enough. Fourteen were applied to my eyes the same afternoon. The
+ground here was quite naked; it was, in fact, the blue clay of the Darling,
+with the same sterile looking plants; and no time was to be lost in
+seeking some ponds where there might be also good grass for the cattle.
+Therm. at sunrise, 97°; at noon, 100°; at 9 p.m. 90°; with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+<p>26TH JANUARY.--I sent Corporal Graham with Piper, in a N. E.
+direction to where we had observed the light of burning woods reflected
+from a cloudy sky last evening; considering that a sure indication that
+water was near, as natives are seldom found where there is none. He
+returned early with the welcome tidings that he had found abundance of
+water in a creek about five miles off, and excellent grass upon its banks.
+My eyes were so far recovered that I could observe the altitude of a
+star, thus ascertaining the latitude of this camp to be 31° 20' 20" S.
+Therm. at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 112°; at 9 p.m. 84°; with wet bulb, 70°.
+
+<p>27TH JANUARY.--The whole party moved to the ponds called
+"Cannonbà" by the natives. There we found greater abundance of water
+and better grass than we had seen near water during the whole journey,
+and I determined to halt for at least two weeks, as part of the time I had
+previously intended to devote to the repose and refreshment of the cattle,
+when we should have reached the Darling. The cattle and their drivers
+had been much harassed, and both needed and deserved rest. The horses
+had got out of condition, and I considered that when we arrived at the
+Darling their services would be more required. I was also to try the
+experiment here, whether I might prosecute the journey without danger
+of losing my eyesight; to have abandoned the undertaking at that point,
+had been almost as painful to me as the other alternative. There were no
+hostile natives here, the fire having been set up by some solitary gins;
+rain was daily to be expected, at least cooler weather would certainly
+come in a short time; the wheels of the drays had been long represented
+to me as needing a thorough repair, from the effect of the heat on the
+wheels;--and, upon the whole, I considered it very fortunate that we
+could encamp under such circumstances on so favourable a spot. We
+placed our tents amongst shady bushes--set up the blacksmith's forge,
+and soon all hands were at work in their various avocations, whilst the
+cattle and horses enjoyed the fresh grass, leisure to eat it, and abundance
+of water.
+
+<p>Amongst the bushes here, a <i>Hakea</i>, with simple filiform mucronulate
+leaves without flower, occurred, loaded with oblong hard galls
+resembling dry plums. Also the <i>Senecio cunninghami</i> (D.C.), found by
+Allan Cunningham on the shores of Lake George. Mr. Stephenson
+discovered here a very pretty new <i>Trichinium</i>, with heads of hoary pink
+flowers. [* <i>T. semilanatum</i> (Lindl. MS.); ramosa, pubescens, ramulis,
+angulatis, foliis linearibus acutis noveillis villosis, capitulis paucifloris
+hemisphericis, rachi densè bracteis uninerviis acutis scpalisque angustis
+plumosis parcè lanatis.]
+
+<p>I learnt from the natives that this creek also joined the Bogan,
+consequently that the real Duck Creek must either be still to the N. E. of
+us, or be a branch out of this. At all events, the creek surveyed by Larmer
+is thus proved to have been a discovery of his, and a most useful one it
+has thus proved to us on this emergency. That chain of ponds (whence
+we had just come) was called Bellaringa; this "Cannonbà;" and to what I
+suppose must be Duck Creek, water to which the natives point
+northward, they give the name of "Marra." Therm. at sunrise, 78°; at
+noon, 115°; at 4 p.m. 96°; at 9, 88°; with wet bulb, 73°.
+
+<p>28TH JANUARY.--Several kettles, a good spade, a Roman balance with
+large chain complete, barrels, and other articles, were found at the
+bottom of one of the ponds; and old tracks of cattle were numerous about
+the banks. Thus it was clear that this favourable spot for a cattle station
+had not been unheeded by the white man. It was vaguely asserted by
+some old gins seen by Piper, that three men had been killed here when
+the place was abandoned. We were about twelve or fourteen miles to the
+W.N.W. of Mount Harris; and certainly the general bed of this watercourse
+was broader than that of the Bogan, and moreover contained
+much granitic sand, all but identifying its sources with those of the
+Macquarie. This day was very hot; a thunder cloud passed over us, and a
+shower fell about 3 p.m. Thermometer at sunrise, 78°; at noon, 115°; at 4
+p.m. 108°; at 9, 84°; with wet bulb, 63°.
+
+<p>29TH JANUARY.--A more than usually hot wind raised the thermometer
+to 115° in the shade; but distant thunder was soon heard, and the horizon
+became clouded. The day was very sultry, and although no rain fell near
+us, it was evident that other parts to the north-east were receiving a heavy
+shower. Thermometer at sunset, 102°.
+
+<p>30TH JANUARY.--An easterly wind brought a refreshing air from the
+quarter where the thunder-cloud had exhausted itself last evening. This
+day the doctor found the tree mentioned as bearing a nondescript fruit in
+my former journal, Vol. I. page 82., but this tree bore neither flower nor
+fruit. Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 108°; at 9,
+100 ½°; with wet bulb, 79°.
+
+<p>31ST JANUARY.--The weather still very sultry. I commenced a series of
+observations with a syphon barometer (made by Bunten of Paris). The
+table for expansion of mercury and mean dilatation of glass, sent me by
+my friend Captain P. P. King, came but to 88° of Fahrenheit, whereas at
+4 p.m., the centigrade thermometer stood at 44½°, which is equal to
+112° of Fahrenheit.
+
+<p>This day I was apprised of Piper's intention to leave the party, taking
+with him the two younger and more useful natives. He had recently made
+some very unreasonable demands. It was now obvious from various
+sayings and doings thus brought to my recollection, that he had never
+any serious intention of accompanying this expedition throughout its
+progress. The services of other more intelligent natives might easily have
+been obtained, having been proffered by many in the settled districts, but
+Piper from having been with me before, was preferred as a matter of
+course. He had not improved in speech or manners during the long
+interval of ten years that had elapsed since our former acquaintance,
+although during that time he had visited Adelaide, Sydney, Moreton Bay,
+the river Hunter, etc., etc. From the day on which he had joined the party
+on this last occasion, he had been allowed a horse, saddle, doublebarrelled
+gun, clothing, and the same rations as the other men, blankets,
+place in a tent with the men, etc. Unlike most other natives, he was a
+very bad shot, and very awkward about a horse; it was impossible to
+obtain any clear intelligence from his countrymen through him as
+interpreter; he went very unwillingly about doing anything. He had
+drawn his rations and those of the two young natives separately from the
+men's mess the week before this, on the plea that they did not obtain their
+fair share; he was thus premeditately preparing for his clandestine
+departure, foreseeing that on the Saturday, when rations were issued, he
+could thus obtain a week's provisions in advance, without suspicion. He
+also had it in his power, like a true savage, to take the lion's share from
+the other two, in thus drawing rations apart from the men's mess. He had
+heard of the gins who had made the conflagration having retired towards
+the cattle-stations on the Macquarie. Here, then, while other men were
+actively at their work,--blacksmiths, carpenters, bullock-drivers,
+--this man, who was as well fed and clothed as they, carried on a horse
+to boot, and doing no work, was the only dissatisfied person. Me, whom
+he called his "old master," he would heartlessly leave, without a native
+guide, just at the time when such guides were most required. The only
+difficulty I felt on this occasion was how to secure the services of the two
+others, and yet dismiss him. He had just received a week's ration in
+advance, and he was baking the whole of the flour into bread. I sent to
+have him instantly seized, and brought with the dough and the other
+native, Yuranigh, before Mr. Kennedy and myself, as magistrates. He
+denied the intention to decamp. The other declared he had proposed to
+him to leave the party and go in search of gins, and that he could not
+understand him; that he was afraid to accompany Piper in a country so
+far from his own home (Buree). On this I ordered Piper to be sent to
+Bathurst, and the rations he was about to carry off, to be given to the
+other two, and that he should be kept apart from them during the night.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 111°; at 4 p.m., 112°; at 9,
+101°;--with wet bulb, 78°.
+
+<p>1ST FEBRUARY.--This morning Piper was sent off with Corporal
+Graham. Mr. Kennedy rode on also in order to find out the nearest police
+station, and make arrangements, if possible, there, for forwarding Piper
+to Bathurst, his own district, which would put it out of his power to
+molest the party by endeavouring to induce the other natives to leave it.
+On them this measure appeared to have a salutary effect, Yuranigh
+calmly observing that Piper had only himself to blame for what had
+befallen him, and that he had acted like a fool. Mr. Kennedy undertook
+also to obtain, if he could, some more kangaroo dogs to replace those
+which had died from excessive heat. By that loss our party was left
+almost without dogs; and dogs were useful not only to kill kangaroos and
+emus, but to afford protection from, or to give notice of, nightly attacks
+by the natives, in which attacks those on that part of the Darling we were
+approaching, had been rather too successful against various armed parties
+of whites. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., 106°; at
+9 p.m., 88°;--with wet bulb, 76°.
+
+<p>2ND FEBRUARY.--The setting sun descended on a blue stratus cloud
+which appeared along the edge of all other parts of the horizon, and
+eagerly watching any indication of a change, I drew even from this a
+presage of rain. Thermometer at sunrise, 88°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m.,
+106; at 9, 88°;--with wet bulb, 72°.
+
+<p>3RD FEBRUARY.--High winds whistled among the trees this morning,
+and dark clouds of stratus appeared in the sky. A substantial shower fell
+about 9 a.m., and the horizon was gradually shut in by clouds of
+nimbus. The high wind had blown steadily from north both yesterday and
+this morning, and in the same quarter a thunder cloud seemed busy. But
+when the rain began to fall, the wind shifted to the S.W., from which
+quarter the rain seemed to come. With it came a very peculiar smell,
+which I had noticed near Mount Arapiles in 1836, about the time of the
+commencement of the rainy weather there; and nothing could have been
+more welcome to us now, than the prospect of rain, and the decided
+change in the temperature from 115° to 73°. This was almost the first day
+during a month in which the air had not been warmer than our blood;
+often had it been greater than fever heat, so that 73° felt to us as cool as
+50° would have been to a resident of Sydney. Much rain did not fall at
+our camp, but it seemed that rain was falling about the sources of the
+Bogan and other places at which a supply of water was indispensable to
+enable us to proceed. At sunset, glimpses of a clear sky appeared about
+the horizon, and during the night the moon and stars came forth, and
+destroyed all hopes of more rain. We were thankful, however, for the
+relief afforded by what had fallen, which had lowered the temperature
+about 40 degrees, and enabled us to enjoy a night of refreshing rest.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 85°; at noon, 80°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 68°;
+--with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+<p>4TH FEBRUARY.--The morning dawned in a most serene sky, with
+refreshing breezes from the south, and the thermometer at 61°. This day
+we had completed the repair of the wheels of half the drays. Many of the
+tire-rings had been cut, rewelded, and again fixed and bolted on the
+wheels; the wood of these having contracted so much in the intense heat,
+as to have rendered these repairs indispensable. The same repairs were
+required by the wheels of the remaining drays and those of the light carts,
+and the smith and wheelwright continued their work with activity and
+zeal. Meanwhile the cattle were daily regaining strength and vigour for
+another effort. Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 89°; at 4 p.m., 89°;
+at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>5TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the mercurial column stood higher than
+I had yet observed it here, and clouds of cirrus lay in long streaks across
+the sky, ranging from east to west, but these were most abundant towards
+the northern horizon. The day was comparatively cool and pleasant, the
+thermometer never having risen above 96°. By 6 p.m., the barometer had
+fallen nearly four millimetres, and even upon this apparently trivial
+circumstance, I could build some hope of rain; such was my anxiety for a
+change of weather at that time, when the earth was so parched as not
+only to preclude our travelling, but almost to deprive us of sight.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 73°; with
+wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>6TH FEBRUARY.--Dark stratus-shaped clouds wholly covered the sky,
+and shut out the sun, to my unspeakable delight. A most decided change
+seemed to have taken place; still the barometer remained as low as on the
+previous evening. A slight breeze from south-east changed to north, and
+at about 7 a.m. the rain began to fall. Clouds of nimbus closed on the
+woody horizon, and we had a day of rain. In the evening the barometer
+had fallen still lower, and it was probable that the rain might continue
+through the night. Range of thermometer from 74° to 72°.
+
+<p>7TH FEBRUARY.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and the
+mercurial column stood exactly at the same point as on the last evening.
+About 10 a.m. a very heavy shower fell, after which the sun broke
+through, and the mass of vapour separated into vast clouds of nimbus.
+Much rain seemed to be still falling in the east, where the Macquarie,
+Bogan, and other rivers had their sources. At noon, the barometer had
+risen one millimetre. The rain had penetrated the clay soil of the plains
+about five inches.
+
+<p>Mr. Kennedy returned in the afternoon, having duly provided for
+Piper's conveyance by the mounted police to Bathurst, and brought back
+a good bull-dog, and also some useful information respecting the various
+water-courses, and the river Macquarie, which he had gathered from the
+natives about the stations along the banks of that river. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 74°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 90°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb,
+75°.
+
+<p>8TH FEBRUARY.--The moisture recently imbibed by the earth and air
+made us much more sensible of the high temperature in which we had
+been living, although it had been reduced by the late rains. The night air,
+especially, breathed no refreshing coolness as heretofore during the dry
+heat. The drier earth below seemed to be steaming the wet soil above it
+(as Brown, our cook, justly observed). Thermometer at sunrise, 80°; at
+noon, 96°; at 4 p.m., 95°; at 9, 80°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>9TH FEBRUARY.--The leisure we enjoyed at this camp, enabled us to
+bestow more attention on the vegetable and animal productions of these
+remarkable plains, than had been given during my former journey. It
+appeared that the saltwort plants, which were numerous, were not only
+efficacious in keeping the cattle that fed on them in the best possible
+condition; but as wholly preventing cattle and sheep from licking clay, a
+vicious habit to which they are so prone, that grassy runs in the higher
+country nearer Sydney are sometimes abandoned only on account of the
+"licking holes" they contain. It is chiefly to take off that taste for licking
+the saline clay, that rock-salt is in such request for sheep, lumps of it
+being laid in their pens for this purpose. At all events, it is certain that by
+this licking of clay both sheep and cattle are much injured in health and
+condition, losing their appetite for grass, and finally passing clay only, as
+may be seen near such places. In the salt plants on these plains, nature
+has amply provided for this taste of these large herbivora for salt. Our
+sheep nibbled at the mesembryanthemum, and the cattle ate greedily of
+various bushes whereof the leaf was sensibly salt to the taste. The colour
+of the leaves of such bushes is usually a very light bluish green, and there
+are many species. That with the largest leaves, called salt-bush by
+stockmen, and by Dr. Brown <i>Rhagodia parabolica</i>, was very useful as a
+vegetable after extracting the salt sufficiently from it. This we
+accidentally discovered from some experiments made by Mr.
+Stephenson, for the purpose of ascertaining the proportion of salt
+contained in the leaves. The leaves contained as much as a twentieth part
+of salt, nearly two ounces having been obtained from two pounds of the
+leaves.[*] We also found that after twice boiling the leaves a few minutes
+in water to extract the salt, and then an hour in a third water, the leaves
+formed a tender and palatable vegetable, somewhat resembling spinach.
+As the superior excellence of these runs for fattening cattle is admitted
+on all hands, as compared with others more abundant in grass on the
+eastern side of the great range, would it not be advisable for the colonists
+to cultivate this salt-supplying bush, and thereby to produce a vegetable
+substitute for the rock salt, which is not only expensive, but only a very
+imperfect remedy for the clay-licking propensities of sheep and cattle on
+many runs? Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 98°; at
+9, 86°;--with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>[* The process of Mr. Stephenson was as follows:--"Two pounds of the
+green leaf were boiled in eight quarts of water for half an hour, then
+strained and evaporated nearly to dryness. The mass was then submitted
+to a red heat for half an hour. The residuum was next digested in one pint
+of water, filtered, and again evaporated to six ounces. It was then
+exposed to the sun's rays, which completed the desiccation; crystals of a
+cubic shape having previously been formed."]
+
+<p>10TH FEBRUARY.--This morning the natives caught, in a hollow tree, an
+animal apparently of the same genus as the <i>Dipus Mitchellii</i>, and which
+seemed to live solely on vegetables. The barometer had fallen three
+millimetres last evening, and by noon this day it had declined three more.
+A fresh breeze blew from N. N. E., and at 2 p.m. a dark thunder cloud
+came from the S. S. W. and passed over the camp. The thunder was very
+loud, the lightning close and vivid; the wind for some time high, and rain
+heavy. The sky was, however, clear by 4 p.m., except in the N. E. where
+the thunder continued. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°.
+
+<p>11TH FEBRUARY.--The real "Duck Creek" was still to the northeastward
+of our camp, as Mr. Kennedy had ascertained when on the
+Macquarie. I hoped to find in it water sufficient at least to serve the party
+halting on it one night, on its way to the Macquarie, by which line alone I
+was now convinced water enough might be obtained to supply the party
+until it could arrive at the Darling; I therefore rode this day to examine it,
+with the elder native. I followed the bearing of N. N. E. from our camp, a
+direction in which it was likely to be met with, so as equally to divide the
+journey of the drays to the Macquarie, into two days. I crossed plains
+covered with luxuriant crops of very rich grass, and at length obtained a
+sight of Mount Foster bearing east. I reached Duck Creek (that of Sturt),
+or the "Marra" of the natives, ascertained by the bearing of Mount
+Foster, the native name of which is Narrab. I examined the bed of the
+Marra downwards for about two miles, without seeing therein the least
+indication of water, and returned to the camp fully resolved to proceed
+next day to the Macquarie, so as to reach it a little way below Mount
+Foster, a distance in that direction rather too great for the cattle to travel
+over in one day. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m.,
+76°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. From an average of twenty-five
+observations of the mercurial column, the height of this station has been
+determined to be 566 English feet above the level of the sea.
+
+<p>12TH FEBRUARY.--We broke up our encampment on Cannonbà ponds,
+where we had greatly recruited ourselves, both men and cattle, and
+crossing the channel of the water-course near our camping ground, we
+travelled over open grassy plains towards the river Macquarie. At
+thirteen miles we reached the western branch of Duck Creek, or "Marra,"
+a name by which it is universally known to natives and stockmen. Of this
+we crossed several branches, from which it would appear as if the name
+was derived from that of the hand, which is the same, especially as
+natives sometimes hold up the hand and extend the fingers, when they
+would express that a river has various branches or sources. I went on
+with an advanced party towards the Macquarie, and encamped on the
+bank of that river at 5 p.m. The thick grass, low forests of yarra trees,
+and finally the majestic blue gum trees along the river margin, reminded
+me of the northern rivers seen during my journey of 1831. Still even the
+bed of this was dry, and I found only two water holes on examining the
+channel for two miles. One of these was, however, deep, and we
+encamped near it, surrounded by excellent grass in great abundance. The
+Macquarie, like other Australian rivers, has a peculiar character, and this
+was soon apparent in the reeds and lofty yarra trees growing on reedy
+plats, and not, as usual in other rivers, on the edge of water-worn banks.
+The channel was here deep and dry. We found this day, in the scrubs by
+Marra Creek, the <i>Acacia salicina</i>, whereof the wood has a strong
+perfume resembling violets, also a new small-leaved <i>Kochia</i> with
+intricate branches.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9,
+57°;--with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+<p>[* <i>K. thymifolia</i> (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, ramulis intricatis
+pubescentibus, foliis carnosis obtusis teretibus fructibusque glabris.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-01"></a><img alt="" src="trop-01.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Flood coming down the Macquarie</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>13TH FEBRUARY.--I was again laid up with the <i>maladie du pays</i>--sore
+eyes. Mr. Stephenson took a ride for me to the summit of Mount Foster,
+and to various cattle stations about its base, with some questions to
+which I required answers, about the river and stations on it lower down.
+But no one could tell what the western side of the marshes was like, as
+no person had passed that way; the country being more open on the
+eastern side, where only the stations were situated; Mr. Kinghorne's at
+Gràway, about five miles from our camp, being the lowest down on the
+west bank. Mr. Stephenson returned early, having met two of the
+mounted police. To my most important question--what water was to be
+found lower down in the river--the reply was very satisfactory; namely,
+"plenty, and a <i>flood coming down</i> from the Turmountains." The two
+policemen said they had travelled twenty miles with it, on the day
+previous, and that it would still take some time to arrive near our camp.
+About noon the drays arrived in good order, having been encamped
+where there was no water about six miles short of our camp, the whole
+distance travelled, from Cannonbà to the Macquarie, having been about
+nineteen miles. In the afternoon two of the men taking a walk up the
+river, reported on their return, that the flood poured in upon them when
+in the river bed, so suddenly, that they narrowly escaped it. Still the bed
+of the Macquarie before our camp continued so dry and silent, that I
+could scarcely believe the flood coming to be real, and so near to us, who
+had been put to so many shifts for want of water. Towards evening, I
+stationed a man with a gun a little way up the river, with orders to fire on
+the flood's appearance, that I might have time to run to the part of the
+channel nearest to our camp, and witness what I had so much wished to
+see, as well from curiosity as urgent need. The shades of evening came,
+however, but no flood, and the man on the look-out returned to the camp.
+Some hours later, and after the moon had risen, a murmuring sound like
+that of a distant waterfall, mingled with occasional cracks as of breaking
+timber, drew our attention, and I hastened to the river bank. By very slow
+degrees the sound grew louder, and at length, so audible as to draw
+various persons besides from the camp to the river-side. Still no flood
+appeared, although its approach was indicated by the occasional rending
+of trees with a loud noise. Such a phenomenon in a most serene
+moonlight night was quite new to us all. At length, the rushing sound of
+waters and loud cracking of timber, announced that the flood was in the
+next bend. It rushed into our sight, glittering in the moonbeams, a
+moving cataract, tossing before it ancient trees, and snapping them
+against its banks. It was preceded by a point of meandering water,
+picking its way, like a thing of life, through the deepest parts of the dark,
+dry, and shady bed, of what thus again became a flowing river. By my
+party, situated as we were at that time, beating about the country, and
+impeded in our journey, solely by the almost total absence of water
+--suffering excessively from thirst and extreme heat,--I am convinced
+the scene never can be forgotten. Here came at once abundance, the
+product of storms in the far off mountains, that overlooked our homes.
+My first impulse was to have welcomed this flood on our knees, for the
+scene was sublime in itself, while the subject--an abundance of water
+sent to us in a desert--greatly heightened the effect to our eyes. Suffice
+it to say, I had witnessed nothing of such interest in all my Australian
+travels. Even the heavens presented something new, at least uncommon,
+and therefore in harmony with this scene; the variable star ARGUS had
+increased to the first magnitude, just above the beautiful constellation of
+the southern cross, which slightly inclined over the river, in the only
+portion of sky seen through the trees. That very red star, thus rapidly
+increasing in magnitude, might, as characteristic of her rivers, be
+recognized as the star of Australia, when Europeans cross the Line. The
+river gradually filled up the channel nearly bank high, while the living
+cataract travelled onward, much slower than I had expected to see it; so
+slowly, indeed, that more than an hour after its first arrival, the sweet
+music of the head of the flood was distinctly audible from my tent, as the
+murmur of waters, and the diapason crash of logs, travelled slowly
+through the tortuous windings of the river bed. I was finally lulled to
+sleep by that melody of living waters, so grateful to my ear, and
+evidently so unwonted in the dry bed of the thirsty Macquarie.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 79°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, 63°;
+--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>14TH FEBRUARY.--The river had risen to within six feet of the top of
+the banks, and poured its turbid waters along in fulness and strength, but
+no longer with noise. All night that body of water had been in motion
+downwards, and seemed to me enough to deluge the whole country to the
+Darling, and correct at least any saltness in its waters, if stagnant; a
+probability which had greatly reconciled me to the necessity for changing
+the line of my intended route, as the waters above the junction of the
+Castlereagh had never been known to become salt. We proceeded, falling
+soon into a cart track which led us to Gràway, Mr. Kinghorne's cattlestation,
+and we encamped about five miles beyond it, near a bend of the
+river. We were already in the midst of reeds, but these had been so
+generally burnt, that we had little difficulty in crossing those parts of the
+marshes. The <i>Imperata arundinacea</i>, with its long head of white silky
+flowers, was common, and a straggling naked branched species of dock,
+on the parts unburnt. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 91°; at 4 P.
+M., 82°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 60°. Height above the level of the
+sea, 475 feet.
+
+<p>15TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne obligingly accompanied me this day,
+and guided us across arms of the marshy ground. I was very glad to have
+his assistance, for I saw no line of trees as on other rivers, nor other
+objects by which I could pursue its course or keep near its waters; trees
+of the aquatic sort and reeds grew together. At one time nothing was
+visible to the eastward but a vast sea of reeds extending to the horizon.
+Where the long reeds remained unburnt, they presented a most
+formidable impediment, especially to men on foot and sheep, and twenty
+of these got astray as the party passed through. We encamped on a bank
+of rather firm ground, in lat. 30° 53' 55" S. The grass was very rich on
+some parts of open plains near the marshes, and the best was the
+PANICUM LOEVINODE of Dr. Lindley, mentioned in my former journals[*] as
+having been found pulled, and laid up in heaps for some purpose we
+could not then discover. Mr. Kinghorne now informed me that it was
+called by the natives "coolly," and that the gins gather it in great
+quantities, and pound the seeds between stones with water, forming a
+kind of paste or bread; thus was clearly explained the object of those
+heaps of this grass which we had formerly seen on the banks of the
+Darling. There they had formed the native's harvest field. There also I
+observed a brome grass, probably not distinct from the <i>Broods australis</i>
+of Brown; it called to mind the squarrose brome grass of Europe.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 87°; at 4, 89°; at 9, 73°;--with
+wet bulb, 66°.
+
+<p>[* Vol. i. p. 237.]
+
+<p>16TH FEBRUARY.--Mr. Kinghorne set out with a man of our party to
+examine Duck Creek, a native boy having told him that water was to be
+found in it lower down. I sent back early this morning, our native, with
+the store-keeper, some of the men, and the shepherd, to look for the lost
+sheep in the reeds, and Yuranigh fortunately found them out, still not
+very far from the spot where they had been separated from the rest of the
+flock. Our greatest difficulty in these marshes was the watering of the
+cattle. We had still the Macquarie at hand--deep, muddy, and stagnant
+--not above thirty feet wide, the banks so very soft that men could
+scarcely approach the water without sinking to the knees. We could
+water the horses with buckets, but not the bullocks. The great labour of
+filling one of the half-boats, and giving the cattle water by that means,
+was inevitable, and this operation took up three hours of the morning; a
+wheel required repair, the box having been broken yesterday. I for these
+reasons found it advisable to halt this day, which I did very reluctantly.
+At sunset, Mr. Kinghorne returned, having found no water in the
+"Marra," (Duck Creek).
+
+<p>Among the grasses growing among the reeds, we perceived the
+<i>Andropogon sericeus</i> and an <i>Erianthus</i>, which appeared to differ from
+<i>E. fulvus</i> in having no hair upon the knees. The smooth variety of the
+European <i>Lythrum salicaria</i>, raised its crimson spikes of flowers among
+the reeds of the Macquarie, as it does in England on the banks of the
+Thames. We saw also <i>Morgania floribunda</i>, SENECIO BRACHYLOENUS (D.C.),
+a variety with toothed leaves, also a BRACHYCOME resembling <i>B.
+heterodonta</i>, only the leaves were entire. A new species of <i>Lotus</i>
+appeared among the reeds, very near the narrow-leaved form of <i>L.
+australis</i> on the one hand, and the South European narrow-leaved form
+of <i>L. corniculatus</i> on the other; the flowers were pink, and smaller than
+in <i>L. australis</i>.[*] Also an <i>Ethulia</i> [**], which may, on further examination,
+constitute a new genus; it was found by Allan Cunningham on the
+Lachlan. Thermometer at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 84°; at 9,
+61°;--with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+<p>[* L. LAEVIGATUS (Benth. MS.); subglaber glaucescens, foliolis linearibus v.
+lineari-cuneatis vix acutatis, pedunculis folio longioribus 3--6-floris,
+calycis subsessilis appresse pubescentis dentibus setaceo-acuminatis tubo
+suo paullo longioribus, legumine recto tereti glabro.]
+
+<p>[** ETHULIA CUNNINGHAMI (Hooker MS.); glaberrima, caule dichotomo,
+foliis oblongis sessilibus dentato-serratis, capitulis paucis corymbosis
+globosis, involucri squamis oblongis imbricatis viridibus, pappo e setis
+paucis brevibus.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-06"></a><img alt="" src="trop-06.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>First use of the boats</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>
+17TH FEBRUARY.--The party moved off early, and Mr. Kinghorne
+having shown me a few miles more of the best ground between the
+scrubs and reeds, went towards a cattle station beyond the Macquarie,
+where a belt of open forest separated the reeds and enabled him to pass.
+He prevailed on a native whom he met with there to come with him to
+me, and to guide me to water until I reached the Bàrwan. This native at
+first seemed rather afraid of our numerous party, but our own native,
+Yuranigh, endeavoured by every means to make him at ease, and to
+induce him to remain with us. He guided us this day by fine open ground
+westward of the marshes, to a part of the Macquarie where the banks
+were solid enough to admit of the cattle drinking. The name was
+Bilgawàngara; I reached the spot early, but at sunset no drays had come
+up. At length I was informed that such was the softness of the soil, that
+the drays had sank frequently, that two were fast in one place, four in
+another, and that two of the bullocks were astray. The marshes were said
+to be just then occupied by some angry tribes, of whom Mr. Kinghorne
+had warned me to be on my guard. The patience necessary to any
+traveller depending on bullocks and bullock drivers, I then thought ought
+to exceed that of Job. Our native guide was very shy, and Yuranigh
+feared he meant to "bolt." We depended on him for finding water--on
+our own native for finding bullocks; but it would not have done then to
+have sent him away. The weather might change, and these marshes
+become impassable; indeed, we were as much at the mercy of Providence
+in this respect as the Israelites were in the bed of the Red Sea. It
+depended on the weather whether we should deserve to be considered
+Jews or Egyptians. The teams came in about midnight, after the moon
+had risen, by which the drivers were enabled to see my track. Lat. 30° 45'
+55" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9,
+60°;--with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+<p>18TH FEBRUARY.--Two bullocks were still astray some miles behind,
+and the iron axle of one of the drays having got bent, required repair. The
+cattle, I was told, were so jaded, as to be unable to make a day's journey
+without more rest, and I was again obliged to halt. One only of the two
+lost bullocks was found, and for this one we were indebted to little
+Dicky, a native only ten years of age, whom the big fool who had lost
+them was at some trouble to coax to go and assist him in the search, as
+Yuranigh could not be spared from the more important duty of
+entertaining our less civilised guide, and preventing him from making his
+escape. It must, indeed, appear strange to these people of the soil, that the
+white man who brought such large animals as oxen with them into the
+country, should be unable to find them without the assistance of a mere
+child of their own race. Dicky had soon found both, but one of them
+being young and wild, escaped again amongst the tall reeds.
+
+<p>In the rich soil near the river bed, we saw the yellowish flowers of the
+native tobacco, <i>Nicotiana suaveoleus</i>, the <i>Minuria heterophylla</i> (D.C.),
+found by Allan Cunningham near the Lachlan, and a <i>Fugosia</i> near <i>F.
+digitata</i> of Senegambia. In the scrub we found a fine new silvery <I>Atriplex</I>
+with broad rounded leaves and strings of circular toothed fruits.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 93°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 67°;
+--with wet bulb 59°.
+
+<p>[* <i>A. nummularia</i> (Lindl. MS.); caule suffruticoso glabro ramoso, foliis
+alternis ovato-subrotundis integerrimis petiolatis basi cuneatis utrinque
+argenteis, floribus monoïcis, spicis longis pendulis, bracteis subrotundis
+dentatis basi connatis.]
+
+<p>19TH FEBRUARY.--We set off early, guided by our native friend. He
+was a very perfect specimen of the <i>genus homo</i>, and such as never is to
+be seen, except in the precincts of savage life, undegraded by any scale
+of graduated classes, and the countless bars these present to the free
+enjoyment of existence. His motions in walking were more graceful than
+can be imagined by any who have only seen those of the draped and shod
+animal. The deeply set yet flexible spine; the taper form of the limbs; the
+fulness yet perfect elasticity of the <i>glutei</i> muscles. The hollowness of the
+back, and symmetrical balance of the upper part of the torso, ornamented
+as it was, like a piece of fine carving, with raised scarifications most
+tastefully placed; such were some of the characteristics of this perfect
+"piece of work." Compared with it, the civilised animal, when
+considered merely in the light of a specimen in natural history, how
+inferior! In vain might we look amongst thousands of that class, for such
+teeth; such digestive powers; for such organs of sight, hearing, smelling,
+tasting, feeling; for such powers of running, climbing, or walking; for
+such full enjoyment of the limpid water, and of all that nature provides
+for her children of the woods. Such health and exemption from disease;
+such intensity of existence, in short, must be far beyond the enjoyments
+of civilised men, with all that art can do for them; and the proof of this is
+to be found in the failure of all attempts to persuade these free denizens
+of uncultivated earth to forsake it for the tilled ground. They prefer the
+land unbroken and free from the earliest curse pronounced against the
+first banished and first created man. The only kindness we could do for
+them, would be to let them and their wide range of territory alone; to act
+otherwise and profess good-will is but hypocrisy. We cannot occupy the
+land without producing a change, fully as great to the aborigines, as that
+which took place on man's fall and expulsion from Eden. They have
+hitherto lived utterly ignorant of the necessity for wearing fig leaves, or
+the utility of ploughs; and in this blissful state of ignorance they would,
+no doubt, prefer to remain. We bring upon them the punishments due to
+original sin, even before they know the shame of nakedness. Such were
+the reflections suggested to my mind by the young savage as he tripped
+on lightly before me by the side of his two half-civilised brethren of our
+party, who, muffled up in clothes, presented a contrast by no means in
+favour of our pretensions to improve and benefit their race. Yet our
+faithful Yuranigh was all that could be wished. He was assiduously
+making to the stranger such explanations of our wants and purposes, as
+induced him to conduct us in the direction these required. He led us, thus
+admonished, over those parts of the country most favourable for the
+passage of wheels. The rosewood acacia was abundant, but many parts
+were covered with most luxuriant grass. We encamped on the edge of a
+salt-bush plain, where there was a small pond of water left by the last
+rains on a clay surface. There was certainly enough for ourselves and
+horses, but it appeared that our guide had greatly underrated the capacity
+for water, of our hundred bullocks. For these, however, there was superb
+grass to the westward, and a little dew fell on it during the night.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 104°; at 9, 77°;
+--with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+<p>20TH FEBRUARY.--From the necessity for obtaining water as soon as
+possible for the bullocks, we travelled over ground which was rather soft,
+otherwise our guide would have pursued a course more to the westward,
+and over a firmer surface. We, at length, crossed two narrow belts of
+reeds not more than twenty feet across, and had the great satisfaction to
+learn from him that these were the last of the reeds. A shallow creek
+appeared soon thereafter on our right, in which our guide had expected to
+find water, but was disappointed; cattle having recently drank up there,
+what had been a large pond when he was there formerly. He showed us
+the recent prints of numerous cloven feet, and thus we were made to feel,
+in common with the aborigines, those privations to which they are
+exposed by the white man's access to their country. On proceeding some
+miles further, our guide following down the channel, he at length
+appeared at a distance making the motions of stooping to bathe, on which
+Yuranigh immediately said "He has found plenty of water;" and there, in
+fact, our guide had found two large ponds. They were still in the
+attenuated channel of the Macquarie, here called by them Wámmerawá,
+the course of which river is continuous throughout the marshes; and
+marked by some high reeds greener than the rest, even when the reeds
+may have been generally burnt. These reeds are distinctly different from
+the "balyan," growing on the marshy parts of the rivers Lachlan,
+Murrumbidgee, and Millewà; the former being a cane or bamboo, the
+latter a bulrush, affording, in its root, much nutritious gluten. We found
+good grass for the cattle on both sides of the water-course, which was
+fringed with a few tall reeds, near which the pretty little <i>Kochia brevifolia</i>
+observed at Mudá on the Bogan, again occurred. The native name of the
+spot was "Warranb." The soft earth had again impeded the drays; the
+teams of two came in at twilight, an axle of one dray having been
+damaged; the six others were brought up in the course of the evening.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at 9, 78°;--with wet
+bulb, 68°.
+
+<p>21ST FEBRUARY.--The first thing done this morning was to send back
+cattle to draw forward the dray with a bent axle, to the camp, that it
+might be repaired. This was done so as to enable the party to continue the
+journey by 1 p.m. The barometer was going down at a rate which was
+alarming enough, considering what our position must have been there in
+a flood, or even after a heavy fall of rain. I therefore pressed forward
+with the light carts, and guided by the native. He brought us at 5 p.m. to
+"Willery," the place where he had expected to find water; but here again,
+he had been anticipated by cattle, which had drunk up all, and trodden
+the ponds as dry as a market-place. He gave us no hopes of finding water
+that night, nor until we could reach the Bàrwan, then distant, I was quite
+sure, at least twenty-four miles, according to the latitude observed (30°
+19' 54" South). We encamped here, and I sent back directions that the
+drays should at once halt, taking their places beside the leading dray, and
+that the cattle should be driven back in the morning to be watered at the
+last camp (Warranb), and then to return and follow in my track. Mr.
+Drysdale, the storekeeper, had also to go back to serve out a week's
+rations to the party with the drays, and he returned to my camp by 2 A.
+M., in the moonlight, bringing, on the horse of the former messenger,
+rations for my party. Here we found the <i>Keraudrenia integrifolia</i>.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 105°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>22D FEBRUARY.--My guide was now desirous that I should cross the
+Macquarie, to open plains which he represented to be much more
+favourable for wheel carriages; but I endeavoured to explain to him, by
+drawing lines in the clay surface, how the various rivers beyond would
+cross and impede my journey to the Bàrwan. There were the Castlereagh,
+Morissett's Ponds, and the Nammoy.[* If Arrowsmith's map had been correct,
+which it was not, for the Nammoy joins the Darling separately, at least
+fifty miles higher than the junction of the Castlereagh.]
+
+<p>An instance occurred here of the uselessness of new names, and the
+necessity for preserving the native names of Rivers. I could refer, in
+communicating with our guide, to the Nammoy only, and to the hills
+which partly supplied the Castlereagh, whereof the native name was
+Wallambangle. I wanted to make them understand the probability that
+some flood had come down the channel of the Castlereagh, and that we
+might therefore hope to find water below its junction with the Macquarie.
+This, with the aid of Yuranigh, our own native, was at length made
+intelligible to our Bàrwan guide, and he shaped his course accordingly.
+He took us through scrubs, having in the centre those holes where water
+usually lodges for some time after rain, where some substratum of clay
+happens to be retentive enough to impede the common absorption. But
+the water in these holes had been recently drunk, and the mud trampled
+into hard clay by the hoofs of cattle. Thus it is, that the aborigines first
+become sensible of the approach of the white man. These retired spots,
+where nature was wont to supply enough for their own little wants, are
+well known to the denizens of the bush. Each locality has a name, and
+such places are frequented by helpless females with their children, or by
+the most peaceably disposed natives with their families. There they can
+exist apart from belligerent tribes, such as assemble on large rivers.
+Cattle find these places and come from stations often many miles distant,
+attracted by the rich verdure usually growing about them, and by thus
+treading the water into mud, or by drinking it up, they literally destroy
+the whole country for the aborigines, and thereby also banish from it the
+kangaroos, emus, and other animals on which they live. I felt much more
+disgusted than the poor natives, while they were thus exploring in vain
+every hollow in search of water for our use, that our "cloven foot" should
+appear everywhere. The day was extremely hot, which usually happened
+to be the case whenever we were obliged to experience the want of
+water. The thermometer under a tree stood at 110°. The store-keeper was
+taken ill with vertigo. Our bull-dog perished in the heat, and the fate of
+the cattle, still a day's journey behind us, and of the sheep, which had not
+drunk for two days, were subjects of much anxiety to me at that time. It
+may, therefore, be imagined with what pleasure I at length saw before me
+large basins of water in the channel of the Macquarie, when I next
+approached the banks, after a journey at a good pace for six hours and a
+half. We had made it below the junction of Morissett's Ponds, and found
+that a recent flood had filled its channel with water. The natives dived
+into it to cure their headaches, as they said, and seemed to go completely
+under water, in order to take a cool drink. We had reached the united
+channel of the Macquarie and Morissett's Ponds, and were at an easy
+day's journey only distant from the junction with the <i>Bàrwan</i> or
+"Darling." The use of the aboriginal name of this river is indispensable
+amongst the squatters along its banks, who do not appear to know it to be
+the "Darling." It is most desirable to restore to such rivers their proper
+names as early as possible after they have been ascertained, were it only
+to enable strangers thereby to avail themselves of the intelligence and
+assistance of the natives, in identifying the country by means of the
+published maps. The river Castlereagh is known to the natives as the
+Barr; Morissett's Ponds, as the Wàwill; and the lower part of the
+Macquarie, as the Wammerawà. The squatting system of occupation
+requires still more that the native names of rivers should be known to
+commissioners empowered to parcel out unsurveyed regions of vast
+extent, whereof the western limits would be, indeed, beyond their reach
+or control, but for the line of an angry savage population, which line the
+squatter dares not to cross unsupported by an armed mounted police.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 110°; at 4 p.m., 107°; at 9, 89°;
+--with wet bulb 72°.
+
+<p>23RD FEBRUARY.--The drays did not come up, nor was any intelligence
+of them received at our camp until late in the afternoon, when a man I
+had sent back in the morning to tell the drivers to halt in good time to
+send forward the cattle by daylight along my track to the water, brought
+me word that he left them on the way ten miles off about eleven in the
+morning. This man (Smith) also brought forward the sheep with him.
+They had not drank for two nights, and ran skipping and baaing to the
+water, as soon as they saw it. The heat of this day and yesterday was
+excessive, a hot wind blowing hard all the time. Among the scrub on the
+banks of the Macquarie, a salt plant belonging to the genus <i>Scleroloena</i>
+was remarked; it was perhaps not distinct from S. <I>Uniflora</I>. The
+<i>Goodenia geniculata</i> overran the ground, with its strawberry-like
+runners, and yellow flowers. Latitude, 30° 12' 56" S. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 75°; at noon, 105°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 73°;--with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+<p>24TH FEBRUARY.--Some of the teams came up, having been out all
+night. The drivers brought me word that they had been detached at
+twilight to come six miles; the night was very dark; of course they could
+not see my track, and as a matter equally of course, the spare bullocks
+had strayed from them. Such were the almost daily recurring causes of
+delay by the bullock drivers on this journey. Here, within a day's journey
+(thirteen miles) of the Bàrwan, I was compelled to halt thus several days,
+and really the prospect of performing so long a journey with such drivers
+seemed almost hopeless. Thermometer at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 80°; at 4
+p.m., 85°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>25TH FEBRUARY.--In the evening, the carpenter brought in ten of the
+stray bullocks; four were still wanting, and I dispatched Mortimer, a
+bullock driver, and the carpenter to show him where he had last left the
+track of the animals still astray; both were mounted. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 53°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+<p>26TH FEBRUARY.--Mortimer came in early, saying he had found only
+one of the bullocks, that the others had gone back to the last wateringplace
+twenty-two miles distant. His companion did not arrive during the
+day; he said he had left him bringing on the animal they had fallen in
+with. I blamed him for leaving him, and ordered him to find him
+forthwith on foot. I could not afford to lose horses. Here, it seemed, we
+were doomed to remain. I endeavoured to make the most of the time by
+carrying on the mapping of our survey, in order to make good our
+longitude at crossing the Bàrwan. Thermometer at sunrise, 60°; at noon,
+94°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 62.°
+
+<p>27TH FEBRUARY.--When the teams were about to be put to the drays
+this morning, I was informed that five bullocks were astray. This delayed
+the party until 10 a.m., and then we left one lame bullock still missing. I
+reduced the men's rations by one pound per week, and declared that a
+proportional reduction should be regularly made to correspond with such
+unlooked-for delays in the journey. We proceeded over firmer ground,
+having the river almost always in sight, until, after travelling about six
+miles, our guide showed me the river, much increased in width, and said
+they called that the "Bàrwan." As it was still a mere chain of ponds,
+though these were large, I was sure this was not the main channel; he
+also said this joined the main channel a good way lower down. I was
+convinced that it was only the Castlereagh that had thus augmented the
+channel of the Macquarie, which I found afterwards to be the case, the
+junction taking place two miles higher. I willingly encamped on it,
+however, to afford more time for the lost man, and the man sent after
+him, to rejoin the party.
+
+<p>I this day gave "Yulliyàlly," our guide, the promised tomahawk, a pipe,
+tobacco; and, in addition, a shirt; also a few lines to Mr. Kinghorne,
+certifying that this native had done what he had engaged to do.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 62°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, 70°;
+--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>28TH FEBRUARY.--The wheelwright and Mortimer came into the camp
+at 6 a.m., bringing back the horse of the former, and one of the lost
+bullocks. We set out early, and after travelling about six miles I came
+upon a cart-track, which I followed to the westward until overtaken by a
+stockman, who informed me that the Wammerawà, on which I had been
+encamped, joined the Bàrwan, then on my right, within two miles of the
+spot on which we stood; that he belonged to the cattle station of Mr.
+Parnell, Jun., which was distant from my last camp about five miles, and
+on the main river; also that the track I was following led to Mohanna,
+Mr. Lawson's station, seventy-five miles lower down the Bàrwan. I
+turned with him towards the junction of the Macquarie and Bàrwan, and
+encamped thereby, right glad to reach at length, the river beyond which
+our exploratory tour was to commence. The river looked well, with a
+good current of muddy water in it, of considerable width, and really like
+a river. I understood from my guide to this point, that there was a good
+ford across the river at his station; also that Commissioner Mitchell had
+been down the river a short time back, making a map to show all the
+cattle stations on both banks. We had neither seen nor heard anything of
+Mr. Wright, the commissioner of the Macquarie district through which
+we had just passed, except that he "might visit the district when the hot
+weather was over." Here we found a new species of CALOTIS.[*]
+Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 101°; at 4 p.m., 100°; at 9,
+with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>[* <i>Calotis scapigera</i> (Hook. MSS.); stolonifera glaberrima, foliis omnibus
+radicalibus lineari-spathulatis, scapo nudo monocephalo, achenii aristis
+robustis subulatis retrorsum pilosis apice rectis vel uncinatis.--A very
+distinct species. Habit of <i>Brachystephium scapigerum</i> D. C.: but that
+ought to have no aristae to the achenium: here the awns are very stout in
+proportion to the size of the capitulum.]
+
+<p>1ST MARCH.--When, fifteen years before, I visited this river at a higher
+point where it was called the Karaula [*], no trace of hoofs of horses or
+bullocks had been previously imprinted on the clayey banks. Now, we
+found it to be the last resource of numerous herds in a dry and very hot
+season, and so thickly studded were the banks of this river with cattle
+stations, that we felt comparatively at home. The ordinary precautionary
+arrangements of my camp against surprise by savage natives seemed
+quite unnecessary, and, to stockmen, almost ridiculous. We had at length
+arrived at the lowest drain of that vast basin of clay absorbing many
+rivers, so that they lose themselves as in the ocean. Here the final outlet
+or channel of the waters of the Macquarie, was but a muddy ditch one
+might step across, which the magnificent flood we had seen in the same
+river above the marshes was not at all likely to reach. That flood had
+gone to fill thousands of lagoons, without which supply, those vast
+regions had been unfit for animal existence. Here we discover another
+instance of that wonderful wisdom which becomes more and more
+apparent to man, when he either looks as far as he can into space, or
+attentively examines the arrangement of any matter more accessible to
+him. The very slight inclination of the surface of these extensive plains
+seems finely adapted to the extremely dry and warm climate over this
+part of the earth. If the interior slope of the land from the eastern
+coastranges were as great as that in other countries supplying rivers of
+sustained current, it is obvious that no water would remain in such
+inclined channels here; but the slope is so gentle that the waters spread
+into a net-work of reservoirs, that serve to irrigate vast plains, and fill
+lagoons with those floods that, when confined in any one continuous
+channel, would at once run off into the ocean.
+
+<p>[* We then understood the natives very imperfectly and might have been
+wrong about the name, which is the more likely, as <i>caràwy</i>, which the
+name resembles, means any deep water-hole.]
+
+<p>In a wet season, the country through which we had traced out a route
+with our wheels had been impassable. The direction I should have
+preferred, and in which I had endeavoured to proceed, was along the
+known limits of this basin, and formed a curved line, or an arc, to which
+the route necessity had obliged us to follow was the chord; thus we had
+not lost time; but had, in fact, shortened the distance to be travelled over
+very considerably. A permanent route had, however, seemed to me more
+desirable to any country we might discover, than one liable to be
+interrupted by flooded rivers and soft impassable ground. The track of
+our drays, along the western side of the Macquarie marshes opened a
+new and direct route from Sydney to the banks of the river Darling, by
+way of Bathurst; and afforded access to a vast extent of excellent
+pasturage on the Macquarie, along the western margin of the marshes,
+which land would, no doubt, be soon taken up by squatters. In so dry a
+climate, and where water is so frequently scarce, it may, indeed, be found
+that the shortest line of route with such advantages would be more
+frequented than any longer line, possessing only the remote advantage of
+security from interruption by too much water. Thermometer at sunrise,
+64°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 81°; with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>2ND MARCH--MONDAY. I took a ride to examine the ford at Wyàbry,
+(Mr. Parnell, Jun.'s station,) which I found practicable for our drays,
+although, for their descent and ascent, it was necessary to cut better
+approaches on each side. The Macquarie, although the channel was so
+attenuated and ditch-like, was likely to prove also an obstacle without
+some work of the same kind. Accordingly, on my return to the camp, I
+sent some men to the last-mentioned work.
+
+<p>I learnt from natives whom I met at Mr. Parnell's station, that the rivers
+Bolloon, Culgoa, and Biree were then flowing, some abundant rains
+having fallen about their sources. Also, from the stockman, that the
+Narran was thirty-five miles distant, but that a native could be found to
+guide me to water only ten miles off. Water was also to be obtained at a
+distance of only seven miles beyond the Bàrwan there at the "Morella
+Ridges," to which the natives were in the habit of resorting at certain
+seasons, by a path of their own, to gather a fruit of which they were very
+fond, named by them "Moguile," and which I had previously ascertained
+to be that formerly discovered by me, and named by Dr. Lindley
+<i>Capparis Mitchellii</i>.[*] We found back from this camp the <i>Rutidosis
+helychrysoides</i> of De Candolle. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at noon,
+101°; at 4 p.m.; 100°; at 9, 78°; and with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>[* See "Three Expeditions," etc., vol. i. page 315.]
+
+<p>3D MARCH.--Early this morning a party of men were sent to cut better
+approaches to the ford across the Bàrwan at Mr. Parnell's station.
+Ascertained the longitude of the junction of the rivers Macquarie and
+Darling at our present camp to be 147° 33' 45" E., by actual
+measurements connected with my former surveys of the colony. Mr.
+Kennedy had chained the whole of the route from Bellaringa, and I had
+connected his work with latitudes observed at almost every encampment,
+and after determining at various points the magnetic variation, which
+appeared to be very steady, I made the latitude of this camp 30° 6' 11"
+south. Thermometer at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 99°; at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9,
+72°; and with wet bulb, 65°. The height above the sea level of the bed of
+the river here, the average result of eight observations, as calculated by
+Capt. King, was 415 feet.
+
+<p>4TH MARCH.--The party moved off towards the ford over the Bàrwan
+at Wyàbry, crossing the bed of the Macquarie about half a mile above its
+junction with the Bàrwan; there, although the approaches had been well
+enough cut, we found the bottom too soft for our heavy vehicles, one of
+which dipped its wheel to near the axle. We were obliged to pave the soft
+and muddy bed with logs, and to cover these with branches, on which
+earth was thrown, ere the rest could be got across. The party arrived
+about noon at Wyàbry, and by 2 p.m. the whole was safely encamped on
+the right bank of the Bàrwan. I had received this morning a dispatch from
+my son, commissioner of this district, in which he gave me a most
+favourable account of several rivers he had explored in the direction of
+my proposed route. These dispatches came to me at the last camp by the
+hands of a native, in forty-four hours after the superintendent of Mr.
+Lawson, being then on his way down the river, had promised to send
+them to me, from a station forty-five miles off, towards Fort Bourke,
+where it had been supposed my party would pass. Lat. of this camp, 30°
+5' 41" S. On this northern bank of the Darling we looked for novelty in
+botany, and found some interesting plants, such as a toothed variety of
+<i>Senerio brachyloenus</i> D. C., a kind of groundsel; <i>Morgania floribunda</i>,
+loaded with purple blossoms, and a variety of <i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i>,
+somewhat different in the leaves from the usual state of the species.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at 4 p.m., 98°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb,
+61°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-07"></a><img alt="" src="trop-07.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map III. The Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter03"></a>
+<h4>Chapter III.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>THE PARTY ADVANCES INTO THE UNKNOWN REGION BEYOND THE DARLING,--GUIDED
+BY TWO ABORIGINAL NATIVES.--PLAINS AND LOW HILLS.--ARRIVE AT PONDS
+OR SPRINGS CALLED "CARÀWY."--DELAYED BY THE WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--REACH
+THE NARRAN SWAMP SOONER THAN EXPECTED.--BRIDGE MADE TO CROSS SOFT PART
+OF SWAMP,--WHILE AWAITING THE ARRIVAL OF TIRED BULLOCKS.--SWAMP VERY
+EXTENSIVE TO THE EASTWARD.--NEW PLANTS.--RIDE ACROSS THE SWAMP AND
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER NARRAN THIRTY MILES UPWARDS.--THE SWAMP THE LAST
+RECEPTACLE OF THE RIVER.--BRIDGE LAID DOWN BY MOONLIGHT.--THE WHOLE PARTY
+CROSSES IT, AND AFTERWARDS FORD THE NARRAN,--CROSSING TO THE LEFT
+BANK.--ADVANCE BY VERY SHORT STAGES FROM WEAKNESS OF THE CATTLE.--RICH
+GRASS ON THE NARRAN.--ELEVATED STONY GROUND TO THE WESTWARD.--AGAIN
+RECONNOITRE THE RIVER IN ADVANCE WHILE THE CATTLE REST.--PARLEY WITH A
+NATIVE.--TWO NATIVES OF THE BALONNE GUIDE ME TO THAT RIVER.--APPROACH
+THE ASSEMBLED POPULATION OF ITS BANKS.--INTERVIEW WITH THE
+TRIBES.--CORDIAL RECEPTION.--CROSS THE BALONNE,--AND REACH THE
+CULG.--CIVILITY OF THE NATIVES.--CROSS THE CULG.--TRAVEL UP ALONG THE
+RIGHT BANK OF THE BALONNE.--GRASSY PLAINS ALONG ITS BANKS.--THE OLD DELAY,
+CATTLE MISSING.--A NATIVE SCAMP.--SPLENDID REACHES OF THE RIVER.--DÉPÔT
+CAMP AT A NATURAL BRIDGE.--RIDE TO THE NORTHWEST.--RECEIVE DISPATCHES FROM
+SYDNEY.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.</blockquote>
+
+<p>5TH MARCH.--Early this morning the stockman brought over two
+natives, brothers, who were to guide us to water ten miles on towards the
+Narran, which was said to be thirty-five miles off. In the first two miles
+we passed over some soft ground. Further on, hills were visible to the
+left, which our native guides called Goodeingora. Fragments of
+conglomerate rocks appeared in the soil of the plains, pebbles and grains
+of quartz cemented by felspar. These plains appeared to become
+undulating ground as we proceeded northward, and the surface became
+firmer. At length the country opened into slight undulations, well clothed
+with grass, and good for travelling over, the soil being full of the same
+hard rock found on the rising grounds nearest to the Darling, in the
+lowest parts of that river explored formerly by me. The red earth seemed
+to be but the decomposed matrix of that rock, as the water-worn pebbles
+of quartz so thickly set therein, here covered the ground in some places
+so thickly as to resemble snow. Much Anthistiria and other good grasses
+grew on those plains. I was, indeed, most agreeably surprised at the firm
+undulating stony surface and open character of the country, where I had
+expected to see soft clay, and holes and scrubs. At six miles, other slight
+elevations appeared to the N. E. which the natives called Toolowly, a
+name well calculated to fix in white men's memory elevations <i>too low</i> to
+be called hills. They were quite high enough, however, along a line of
+route for such heavy drays as those following us. There appeared much
+novelty in the trees on this side the Darling. The <i>Angophora lanceolata</i>
+was every where; Callitris grew about the base of the hills, and some
+very singular acacias, a long-leaved grey kind of wattle, the <i>Acacia
+stenophylla</i> of Cunningham. On one tree large pods hung in such
+profusion as to bend the branches to the ground. From this abundance I
+supposed it was not good to be eaten; nevertheless, I found in another
+place many of the same pods roasted at some fires of the natives, and
+learnt from our guides that they eat the pea. The pod somewhat
+resembled that of the Cachou nut of the Brazils,--Mùnumulà is the
+native name. The grasses comprised a great variety, and amongst the
+plants a beautiful little <I>Brunonia</I>, not more than four inches high, with
+smaller flower-heads than those of BR. SERICEA, quite simple or scarcely
+at all lobed, and a hairy indusium.[*] The tree, still a nondescript, although
+the fruit had been gathered by me in 1831, and then sent to Mr. Brown,
+was also here; and I saw one or two trees of a species of <i>Capparis</i>. Mr.
+Stephenson found a great variety of new insects also.
+
+<p>[* <i>B. simplex</i> (Lindl. MSS.); pumila, foliis undique scapisque
+longitudinaliter sericeis, villis appressis, capitulis subsimplicibus,
+bracteis majoribus oblongis, indusio extus piloso.]
+
+<p>Our guides brought us at length to some waterholes, amongst some
+verdant grass on a plain, where no stranger would have looked for water;
+and here we encamped fifteen good miles from the Barwan. The ponds
+were called "Caràwy," and were vitally important to us, enabling us to
+pass on towards the Narran, which was still, as we had been informed,
+twenty-five miles off. As we approached these springs, I saw some
+natives running off, and I sent one of the guides after them to say we
+should do them no harm, and beg them to stop, but he could not overtake
+them. The undulations crossed by us this day seemed to extend east and
+west in their elongations, and were probably parallel to the general
+course of the main channel of drainage. The same felspathic rock seen in
+other parts of this great basin, seems the basis of the clay, although the
+fragments imbedded are very hard. The earth is reddish, and much
+resembles in this respect the matrix of the conglomerate. Near these
+springs we found a new <i>Helichrysum</i>.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 79°;--with wet bulb, 65°.
+
+<p>[* <i>Helichrysum ramosissimum</i> (Hook. MSS.); suffruticosum valde
+ramosum arachnoideo-tomentosum, foliis lineari-spathulatis subflaccidis
+acutis, capitulis in racemis terminalibus parvis globosis flavis, involucri
+squamis lineari-subulatis undulatis fimbriato-ciliatis.]
+
+<p>6TH MARCH.--The drays not having come up, in consequence of the
+excessive length of yesterday's journey, and very hot weather--(16½
+miles by latitude alone)--we were obliged to remain inactive here on a
+beautiful cool morning. I found near the ponds, several huts made of
+fresh branches of trees and the remains of fires, doubtless the deserted
+home of the fugitives of yesterday. At these fires I found the roasted pods
+of the acacia already mentioned (<i>Mùnumulà</i>). The water was surrounded
+by fresh herbage, and such was the simple fare of those aborigines, such
+the home whence they fled. As I looked at it in the presence of my sable
+guides, I could not but reflect that the white man's cattle would soon
+trample these holes into a quagmire of mud, and destroy the surrounding
+verdure and pleasant freshness for ever. I feared that my good-natured
+but acute guides thought as much, and I blushed inwardly [*] for our pallid
+race.
+
+<p>[* The author of Waverley maintains that one may <i>laugh</i> inwardly--conscience
+may, I suppose, make us also blush inwardly sometimes.]
+
+<p>All day we sat still in anxious suspense about the non-arrival of our
+drays--the ground having been so good. With a country so interesting
+before us, this delay was doubly irksome, and as the cattle could only be
+watered by coming forward, why they did not come was the question;
+and this was not solved until evening, when a messenger came forward
+to ask if they might come, and to inform me that they were nearly
+exhausted. The fatal alternative of endeavouring to make them work in
+the morning, after passing a night without water, had been adopted, and
+as, on the day before, they had been worked until dusk in expectation of
+reaching my camp, they could not draw on the morning after; I instantly
+directed them to be brought forward; but the consequence of this
+derangement was the death of one, and much injury to many others. This
+contretemps arose wholly from the guides not having been understood at
+the Barwan as to the real distance, and this we had calculated too surely
+upon. Latitude 29° 52' 26" south. Thermometer at sunrise, 68°; at noon,
+96°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 83°;--with wet bulb, 68°.
+
+<p>7TH MARCH, 1846.--The bullocks having been sent back after they had
+been watered last evening, the drays came up about 9 a.m. I left them in
+Mr. Kennedy's charge, and proceeded with the light carts followed by all
+the bullocks yoked up. They had trodden into mud the little water that
+had been left at that camp, and could not live much longer without more.
+The guides assured us the Narran was not far off, although we had
+understood when at the Barwan that the distance was twenty-five miles
+from these springs. We passed over very good ground, and found the
+country to improve as we advanced. We were conducted through the
+most open parts of scrubs by our guides, who were made to comprehend
+clearly how desirable that was for our "wheelbarrows;" and after
+travelling about seven miles, they pointed to a line of trees as the
+"Narran," beyond an extensive open country, which had a singular
+appearance from being higher than that we were upon. We crossed one or
+two slight elevations wholly composed of compact felspar in blocks
+--forming ridges resembling an outcrop of strata, whereof the strike
+always pointed N. W. and S. E. Various curious new plants and fruits
+appeared; amongst others a solanum, the berry of which was a very
+pleasant-tasted fruit. The plant was a runner and spread over several
+yards from one root. There was also a fruit shaped like an elongated egg;
+it appeared to be some Asclepiad, and was called by the natives
+"Doobàh." They ate it, seeds and all, but said it was best roasted. As we
+approached the elevated country between us and the distant line of trees,
+we perceived that the vast level was covered with <i>Polygonum junceum</i> in
+a verdant state. The colour was dark green, such as I had never seen
+elsewhere in this "leafless bramble," as Sturt called it, which looks ever
+quite dry and withered along the margins of the Darling. We had good
+reason to love and admire its verdure now, when we found amongst it
+pure water in great abundance, into which all our native companions
+immediately plunged, and rolled about like porpoises. This, they said,
+was the "Narran," but to the vast swampy plain they gave the name of
+Keegur, a name quite useless for white men's memories or maps. They
+seemed to say it was wholly an emanation from the Narran, and pointed
+to the nearest part of the trees beyond, saying the river Narran was there.
+I still endeavoured to proceed, as they wished, towards the nearest trees
+beyond, until a winding narrow pond of water, in very soft mud,
+precluded all hopes of crossing with our drays, without some sort of
+bridge; I therefore immediately counter-marched the party with me, now
+far advanced in that sea of dark green polygonum, and conducted it into a
+position on open stony ground to the westward of our route, with the
+intention to await there the arrival of the drays, and to prepare materials
+for a bridge to be laid across the muddy pond, as I had seen a small
+clump of pines (Callitris) at no great distance back. My guides did not
+encourage a hope I entertained, that this swamp might be turned by the
+westward, in which direction the open country extended to the horizon.
+The man who travels with bullocks must expect to be impeded by wet
+ground, as well as by the scarcity of water, in many situations where
+horses could pass without difficulty. I directed the bullocks, that had
+been driven forward with me, to be allowed to graze beside the water
+until sunset, and then to be taken slowly back by moonlight to Mr.
+Kennedy. Five had dropped down on the way, and had not come forward
+to the water. Those sent back were also ordered to be allowed to feed all
+the next day at Mr. Kennedy's camp, and only to start with the drays
+there next evening, to come on by moonlight, thus avoiding the intense
+heat, so oppressive under extreme thirst. The thermometer during the
+day, rose to 103° in the shade. Latitude of the camp on Narran swamp,
+29° 45' 51" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m., 97°;
+at 9, 69°; ditto with wet bulb, 57°. The height of this camp above the sea,
+the average of five registered observations, is 442 feet.
+
+<p>8TH MARCH.--The view northward from our present camp was most
+extensive. Far in the northeast a yellow slope presented the unusual
+appearance there, of a cultivated country. It was doubtless ripe grass, yet
+still the earth there had not even been imprinted with any hoof. Between
+that slope and our camp, lay the element, in abundance, which had been
+so scarce on the other side of the Darling. To the northward, at no great
+distance, was the river, where, as our guides informed us, we should no
+longer be ill off for water in pursuing our journey along its banks. I set
+the carpenter to cut sleepers and slabbing to enable us to bridge the
+muddy creek, for I had examined it early in the morning, and had crossed
+it with my horse; although I found several watercourses almost as soft,
+beyond. The natives maintained that the water in this extensive swamp
+came neither from the east nor west, but from the river directly before us,
+which came from the northward. Just behind our camp, to the southward,
+was a gentle elevation, almost a hill, consisting of the usual rock, felspar;
+and it seemed to me that this stony ground alone impeded the further
+progress of the water towards the Barwan. The ridge trended north-west,
+as most others did in this extensive basin; and this direction being nearly
+parallel to that of the coast ranges further northward, seemed to afford
+additional reason for expecting to find anticlinal and synclinal lines, and,
+consequently, rivers, much in the same direction. D'Urban's group,
+distant 150 miles lower down the Darling, consisted of a quartzose rock,
+exactly similar to this, exhibiting a tendency, like it, to break into
+irregular polygons, some of the faces being curved. This rock is most
+extensively distributed in the interior of New South Wales. It was not
+until the evening of this day that the approach of the drays was
+announced, and then prematurely, the teams only having been brought
+forward to the water without them. So weak were the unfortunate
+animals, that not even by night, nor by doubling the numbers, could they
+be made to draw the drays forward, for the short distance of eight miles;
+a distance which we had been given to understand was so much greater.
+Forward, all was most promising, and it may be imagined how bitterly I
+regretted the alteration of my original plan of equipment, which had
+reference to horses and light carts alone. A new species of <I>Anthistiria</I>
+occurred here, perfectly distinct from the kangaroo grass of the colony,
+very like <i>Apluda mutica</i>, and remarkable for the smooth shining
+appearance of the thin involucral leaves.[*] The <i>Trichinium
+alopecuroideum</i>, in great abundance, was conspicuous, with its long
+silky ears of green flowers. On the stony ground occurred a very curious
+new woolly KOCHIA [**], also a species of <i>Cyperus</i>; the <i>Trichinium lanatum</i>
+in great perfection; a grass resembling the close reed (<I>Calamagrostis</I> of
+England), and which proved to be the little-known <i>Triraphis mollis</i>. On
+the margin of the morass the <i>Dactyloctenium radulans</i>, spreading over
+the interstices, reminded the traveller of the grasses of Egypt; and, in
+stony ground near the morass, we observed the <i>Justicia media</i> of Brown.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 66°; at noon, 98°; at 4 p.m. 102°; at 9, 81°;
+ditto with wet bulb, 74°.
+
+<p>[* <i>A. membranacea</i> (Lindl. MSS); involucris carinatis margine
+membranaceis foliis vaginisque glaberrimis, floribus verticillatis
+pedicellatis (masculis?), glumis omnibus scabris, aristâ glaberrimâ glumâ
+3plo longiore.]
+
+<p>[** <i>K. lanosa</i> (Lindl. MSS); ramis strictis foliisque linearibus acutis
+cinereis tomentosis, fructibus lanatis, calycis laciniis elongatis.]
+
+<p>9TH MARCH.--My native guides, tired of the delay, were anxious to
+return, and as the assistance they could afford me was likely to be
+extremely useful, and the arrival of the drays was most uncertain, I went
+forward this morning with one of them, two men, and Youranigh, our
+interpreter, all mounted. Amongst the trees, beyond the swamp, fine
+reaches of water appeared in a river channel, apparently continuous to
+the northward, but which, in the other direction, or towards the swamp,
+abruptly terminated like a cul-de-sac. On my asking the natives where it
+went to, they pointed to the various narrow water courses and the swamp
+as the final depositories of the water. Admirable distribution of the
+contents of a river in a country where water is so scarce, and the climate
+so hot and dry! We proceeded along the margin of the "Narran," which
+led us nearly due north, until we forded it, at the desire of our guides, on
+a good gravelly bottom, the water reaching to our saddle-flaps. Crossing
+a slight elevation where the soil was gravelly, and in which grew the
+shrubs of the ordinary scrubs with several interesting novelties, we again
+came upon an angle of the Narran, and continued along its banks for
+about thirty miles, until near sunset, when we tethered our horses, and
+lay down for the night. The Narran was full of water every where, and
+with this abundance of water there was also plenty of most excellent
+grass. The <i>Panicum loevinode</i> of Dr. Lindley seemed to predominate, a
+grass whereof the seed ("Cooly") is made by the natives into a kind of
+paste or bread. Dry heaps of this grass, that had been pulled expressly for
+the purpose of gathering the seed, lay along our path for many miles. I
+counted nine miles along the river, in which we rode through this grass
+only, reaching to our saddle-girths, and the same grass seemed to grow
+back from the river, at least as far as the eye could reach through a very
+open forest. I had never seen such rich natural pasturage in any other part
+of New South Wales. Still it was what supplied the bread of the natives;
+and these children of the soil were doing every thing in their power to
+assist me, whose wheel tracks would probably bring the white man's
+cattle into it. We had followed well-beaten paths of natives during the
+whole of this day's ride, and most anxious were my guides and I to see
+them; but they avoided us. Our guide was of that country, and not at all
+unwilling or timid; but evidently very desirous to introduce us to the
+inhabitants, and procure amongst them other guides to lead us further.
+The night was very hot, and flies and mosquitos did their utmost to
+prevent us from sleeping. Thermometer at sunrise, 75°; at noon, 99°; at 4
+p.m., 105°; at 9, 83°; ditto with wet bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>10TH MARCH.--Anxious for an interview with some of the natives, I
+continued the pursuit of the Narran's course about five miles higher, but
+with no better success. I then turned, after obtaining from our guide,
+through Youranigh, what information could be gathered thus, as to the
+river's further course, the best bank for the passage of our drays, etc. We
+were still, he said, a long way from the "Culgoa." There was no
+perceptible change in the aspect of the "Narran" as far as we had
+examined it, except that where we turned, there were flood-marks, and
+the dead logs and river wreck, deposited on the upper side of trees and
+banks, showing a current and high floods. The last of these, our guide
+said, had occurred about five moons before. In riding back to the camp
+we kept the castern bank, that the track might be available for our drays.
+This ride along a river where we could, when we pleased, either water
+our horses, or take a drink ourselves, was quite new and delightful to us,
+under a temperature of 105° in the shade. Our guide, aged apparently
+about fifty, walked frequently into the river, while in a state of
+perspiration; dipped quite under water, or drank a little with his lip on the
+level of its surface, and then walked on again. He was at last very tired,
+however, and pointed to the large muscles of the <i>Rectus femoris</i> as if they
+pained him. We found at the camp, on our return, five of the drays that
+had come up, the other three being still behind, and requiring double
+teams of exhausted cattle to bring them forward. In the vicinity of our
+camp we found the <i>Trichinium alopecuroideum</i>, with heads of flowers
+nearly five inches long; an eucalyptus near <i>E. pulverulenta</i>, but having
+more slender peduncles; a sort of Iron-bark. We found also a tall
+glaucous new HALORAGIS [*], and a curious new shaggy <I>Kochia</I> was
+intermingled with the grass.[**] Thermometer at sunrise, 77°; at noon,
+102°; at 4, 107°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 71°.
+
+<p>[* <i>H. glauca</i> (Lindl. MSS.); annua, stricta, glaberrima, glauca, foliis
+oppositis lineari-oblongis obtusis petiolatis grossè serratis, racemis apice
+aphyllis, fructu globoso tuberculato laevi.]
+
+<p>[** <i>K. villosa</i> (Lindl. MSS.); ramis erectis foliisque linearibus
+villosissimis, fructibus glabris.]
+
+<p>11TH MARCH.--All the drays came in early. I gave to the two natives,
+the tomahawks, tobacco, and pipes, as promised; also a note to the
+stockman on the Barwan, who had provided me with them, saying that
+they had been very useful. I this morning examined the country to the
+westward of the swamp, and found a narrow place at which we could
+pass, and so avoid much soft heavy ground. The ramifications of the
+watery Narran penetrated into the hollows of the stony ridge, presenting
+there little hollows full of rich verdure and pools of water, a sight so
+unwonted amongst rocks characteristic of D'Urban's arid group. In one
+little hollow, to the westward of our camp, it seemed possible for two
+men with a pickaxe and shovel to have continued it through, and so to
+have opened a new channel for the passage of the waters of the Narran
+swamp, into the dry country between it and the Barwan. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 55°; at noon, 105°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb,
+59°.
+
+<p>12TH MARCH.--I found it necessary to sit still here and refresh the
+jaded bullocks; thus days and months passed away, in which with horses
+I might have continued the journey. The very extensive country before
+us, which appeared to absorb these waters, was quite clear of timber, and
+irrigated by little canals winding amongst <i>Polygonum junceum</i>. This
+open country appeared to extend north-eastward about eight miles,
+thence to turn eastward, as if these waters found some outlet that way to
+the Barwan. I regretted that this swamp led too far out of our way, to
+admit of our tracing its limits to the eastward.
+
+<p>This day I received letters from Commissioner Mitchell, in which he
+strongly recommended to my attention the rivers Biree, Bokhara, and
+Narran, as waters emanating from, and leading to, the Balonne, a river
+which he said might supply our party with water, in this very dry season,
+almost to the tropic. I was able to inform him in reply, that I was already
+on the Narran, and that I had already availed myself of his account of the
+rivers formerly sent me, on which I must have been obliged to depend,
+even if the party had passed by Fort Bourke.
+
+<p>This evening, by moonlight, I conducted a dray, carrying two
+platforms, to the place where the narrow channel, feeding the swamp,
+could be passed without our meeting beyond any other impediment to the
+drays. The sleepers used for this purpose were made of pine (<i>Callitris
+pyramidalis</i>), found half a mile back from our camp. They were fourteen
+feet long, two feet wide, being composed of cross-pieces, two feet long,
+fixed at each end between two sleepers, so that they somewhat resembled
+a wooden railway. These, when laid at the proper distance apart to carry
+both wheels, were bedded on the soft earth, and the interval between was
+filled to a level with them, by layers of polygonum and long grass,
+alternate with earth, forming together a mass of sufficient resistance to
+support the feet of the draught oxen. The whole formed a compact bridge
+or gangway. Thermometer at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 107°;
+at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>13TH MARCH.--The party once more moved onward, and the drays
+trundled across the swampy arm by means of our bridge, which, even in
+the event of an accession of water there, might have proved serviceable
+on our return. Three miles beyond it we had to ford the Narran, passing
+over a gravelly bottom to the eastern bank, and encamping there. The
+drays were slow in arriving at this ford and camp, as the ground was soft
+and hollow, but by sunset all had crossed, and our camp established on
+the Narran. Thermometer at sunrise, 71°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 100°;
+at 9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The height of this camp above the sea,
+according to ten registered observations, is 487 feet.
+
+<p>14TH MARCH.--We now had before us water and grass in abundance,
+to a distance as unlimited and indefinite, as our hopes of discovery. I
+intended to set out early each morning, and travel only four or five miles,
+that the jaded animals, exhausted by want of water and hard work, might
+have time to feed and refresh. One old cause of delay, however, again
+occurred to impede us,--three bullocks were reported missing. Now it
+was nearly full moon, and two men had been on watch all night. It really
+seemed that delay and disappointment must attend all who depend on
+bullocks and bullock-drivers. The stray cattle were not brought up until 9
+a.m., when we proceeded, and encamped on an angle of the Narran,
+after travelling about five miles. In the scrubs passed through, we found
+the fragrant <i>Jasminum lineare</i> in fruit, the flowers being nearly past; a
+bulb which proved to be the <i>Anthericum bulbosum</i> of Brown; a shrub ten
+feet high, in fruit, the <i>Canthium oleifolium</i> of Sir William Hooker; a fine
+new <i>Chenopodium</i>, with long naked spikes of woolly yellow flowers [*];
+and a hoary variety of <i>Acacia leptoclada</i>, or perhaps a distinct species,
+having a good deal of the aspect of <i>A. dealbata</i>, but the leaves and glands
+nearer those of <i>A. leptoclada</i>, according to Mr. Bentham. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 102°; at 9, 81°;--with wet
+bulb, 75°.
+
+<p>[* <i>C. auricomum</i> (Lindl. MSS.); totum glaucum farinosum, caule stricto,
+foliis petiolatis oblongis subhastatis lobisque posticis obtusis supremis
+lanceolatis, spicis compositis nudis aphyllis glomeratis multifloris
+tomentosis.]
+
+<p>15TH MARCH.--The sand amongst the scrubs was so soft and yielding,
+that the draught animals could not draw the drays through it without
+great difficulty; indeed, it was only possible by double-backing, as the
+drivers termed their practice of alternately assisting one another, a
+process to which all had had recourse with one exception. It was not until
+1 a.m. of this morning, therefore, that the last dray was brought to the
+camp. Another bullock died on the way, and thus I felt, when the field of
+discovery lay open before me, that my means of conveyance were
+unsuited to the task. Overloading at Boree, unskilful driving, excessive
+heat, and want of water, had contributed to render the bullocks
+unserviceable, and I already contemplated the organization of a lighter
+party and fewer men, with which I might go forward at a better rate,
+leaving the heavy articles of equipment and tired cattle in a depôt, on
+some good grassy spot. The latitude of this camp was 29° 38' 21" south.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 73°; at noon, 84°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at 9, 65°;
+--with wet bulb, 60°.
+
+<p>16TH MARCH.--I proceeded six miles, and chose a camp beside a bend
+of the Narran, full of deep water, and in the midst of most luxuriant
+grass. The drays arrived by 11 a.m. in such good order, that I was
+induced to try whether, by early starting, good feeding, and short
+journeys, the party could not be got forward to the Balonne, where I
+could leave the whole in one depôt, to rest and refresh, while I took my
+intended ride forward. Latitude, 29° 34' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise,
+43°; at noon, 86°; at 4 p.m., 87°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+<p>17TH MARCH.--I proceeded seven miles, and the drays came forward
+as well as they did yesterday, so that I again entertained hopes of the
+progress of the united party, which was very desirable, as these plains
+were evidently sometimes so saturated with water as to be rendered
+wholly impassable for wheel-carriages or even horses. Latitude, 29° 29'
+11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 87°; at 4 p.m., 91°; at 9,
+62°;--with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>18TH MARCH.--Again we made out a short journey over rather soft
+ground; all the drays coming in, although slowly. I rode to a gently rising
+ground, a great novelty, which appeared bearing E. N. E. from our camp,
+at a distance of 2½ miles. I found it consisted of gravel of the usual
+conglomerate decomposed--of rounded fragments of about a cubic inch
+in bulk. The grass was good there, and I perceived that the same gravelly
+ridge extended back from the river in a north and south direction.
+Graceful groups of trees grew about this stony ground, which looked,
+upon the whole, better than the red sandy soil of the scrubs and callitris
+forest. This seemed the dividing ridge between the Narran and Barwan.
+From this elevation, I saw that the course of the former ran still in a good
+direction for us, to a great distance northward. On that stony ground I
+found a new <I>Pittosporum</I> five feet high, with long narrow leaves, in the
+way of <i>P. roeanum</i> and <I>Angustifolium</I>, but distinct from both in the form
+of its fruit.[*] Latitude of camp 29° 25' 21". Thermometer at sunrise, 53°;
+at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>[* <i>P. salicinum</i> (Lindl. MS.); foliis lineari-lanceolatis coriaccis
+acutissimis aveniis, pedunculis unifloris aggregatis axillaribus, fructibus
+subglobosis vix compressis.]
+
+<p>19TH MARCH.--Pursuing the Narran, keeping its eastern or left bank,
+our course this day was more to the northward. I encamped after
+travelling six miles, not only because the ground was soft and heavy for
+the drays, but because I saw that the Narran turned much to the eastward,
+and I contemplated the passage across it, intending to look for it again,
+by travelling northward. Accordingly, as soon as our ground had been
+marked out, I crossed to reconnoitre the country in that direction. I found
+a fine, open, grassy country, but no signs of the river at the end of five
+miles, nor even until I had ridden as far eastward. There, recrossing it, I
+returned to the camp through some fine open forest country. Latitude
+observed, 29° 21' 51", S. Thermometer at sunrise, 57°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at
+9, 71°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>20TH MARCH.--Retracing my homeward tracks of yesterday, we
+proceeded in a nearly E. N. E. direction, along much firmer ground than
+we had recently traversed. The great eastern bend of the river was found
+amongst much excellent grass and amidst much fine timber. A species of
+Anthistiria appeared here, which seemed different from the ordinary sort,
+although this was no stranger to me, when exploring the waterless plains
+westward of the Lachlan, where it looked as if stunted for want of
+moisture. Here, however, this variety presented the same knotty head,
+where other grasses grew luxuriantly. After getting round the extreme
+eastern turn of the Narran we encamped. Near the spot large rocks
+appeared in the bed, as if the river was passing through the stock of the
+gravelly ridge I had visited on the 18th. The rock consisted of that found
+about the basin of the Darling; a quartzose conglomerate with much
+felspar, and having pebbles of quartz imbedded. The large fragments of
+the conglomerate in the river bed were angular, and not at all rounded at
+the edges. Here the poor natives had been very industrious, as was
+evident from heaps of the grass <i>Panicum loevinode</i>, and of the same redstalked
+coral-like plant, also mentioned as having been observed in
+similar heaps, on the banks of the Darling, during my journey of 1835
+(vol. i. p. 238). I now ascertained that the seed of the latter is also
+collected by the natives and made into a paste. This seed was black and
+small, resembling fine gunpowder when shaken out. Nevertheless it was
+sweet and pleasant to the taste, possessing a nutty flavour.
+
+<p>The human inhabitants were few, and as invisible as other animals in
+these forests--the prints of whose feet were also plain in the soft
+smooth surface. As faithless as the snows of the North [*], this soil bore
+the impressions of all animals obliged to go to the water, and amongst them
+those of the naked feet of men, women, and children, with the prints
+likewise of other <i>bipeds</i>, such as emus and kangaroos, and also those of
+the native dog. Here still was our own race amongst other animals all
+new and strange to Europeans. The prints of the foot of man alone were
+familiar to us. But here he was living in common with other animals,
+simply on the bounty of nature; artless, and apparently as much afraid of
+us, and as shy, as other animals of the forest. It seemed strange, that in a
+climate the most resembling that of Milton's paradise, the circumstances
+of man's existence should be the most degrading. Latitude of our camp,
+29° 19' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 55°; at noon, 100°; at 4 p.m.,
+101°; at 9, 70°;--with wet bulb, 65°. The mean elevation above the sea
+of our camps thus far on the Narran, seven in number, was 477 feet; the
+bed of the river being about 15 feet lower.
+
+<blockquote>[* "And hungry Maukin's ta'en her way<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To kailyards green,<br>
+While faithless snaws ilk step betray<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Whar she has been."&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;   <I>Burns</I>.]</blockquote>
+
+<p>21ST MARCH.--Proceeded as usual through fine grass, the river coming
+favourably round towards the north. At about two miles I found some
+traces of horses, and I looked at the river bank for Commissioner
+Mitchell's initials, supposing this might be "Congo," where he had forded
+the Narran. But we had not reached the latitude of Congo according to
+his map. Nevertheless we found here such an excellent dry ford, with
+gently sloping banks to a stony bottom, that the two circumstances
+induced me to cross the Narran with the party. I travelled west-ward,
+until meeting with a dense scrub, I turned towards the friendly Narran,
+where we encamped in latitude 29° 15' 31" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+56°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 72°; ditto with wet bulb, 66°.
+
+<p>22D MARCH.--Gave the party a day's rest, prayers being read by the
+surgeon, as was usual whenever circumstances admitted of our halting on
+Sunday. The bed of the Narran presented in several places the denuded
+rock, which seems the basis of all the soil and gravel of the country. At
+one place irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, cemented by a
+ferruginous basis, was predominant; at another, the rough surface of
+compact felspar weathering white presented merely the cavities in which
+large rounded pebbles had been imbedded, until the partial
+decomposition of the felspar, under the river floods, had exposed them
+once more to the action of water. The force of those waters, however,
+had not been sufficient to cut a channel through very soft rocks extending
+right across their course--a circumstance rather characteristic, perhaps,
+of a river like the Narran, watering a nearly level country, and
+terminating in a swamp. Thermometer at sunrise, 53°; at noon, 95°; at 4
+p.m., 98°; at 9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 66°. Height above the sea, 515
+feet, from eight observations.
+
+<p>23RD MARCH.--All hands were bent on an early start this morning, and,
+soon after seven, the party moved off. We crossed much grassy land,
+almost approaching to the character of scrub as to bushes; but we
+pursued a tolerably straight course to the N.W., until we again made the
+Narran at 8½ miles. Various new plants attracted my attention this day,
+especially a beautiful Loranthus on the rosewood Acacia, and a small
+bush bearing a green pod resembling a small capsicum in shape. Among
+the sedges by the river we found the <i>Kyllinga monocephala</i>; and, on the
+rich black clayed soil near it, a species of bindweed out of flower, with
+large sagittate leaves: in the scrubs back from the river, grew a small
+bush, about four feet high, which has been considered either a variety of
+Brown's <i>Santalum oblongatum,</i> or a new species distinguished by its
+narrow sharp-pointed leaves. The <i>Loranthus lineari</i>. <I>Folius</I> was growing
+on the rosewood Acacia, and the branches of Eucalypti were inhabited by
+the parasitical <i>orange loranth</i>.[*] Lat., 29°1 0' 6" S. Therm. at sunrise,
+51°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 99°; at 9, 70°;--wet bulb, 63°.
+
+<p>[* <i>L. aurantiacus</i> (All. Cunn. MS.); ramis elongatis laxis gracilibus, foliis
+oppositis longe petiolatis oblongis obtusis lanceolatisve acuminatis
+glabris 3-5-nerviis tenui-marginatis, paniculis folio brevioribus ditrichotomis,
+floribus erectis, calycibus subcylindraceis superne latioribus
+truncatis, petalis linearibus 6, stylo infra apicem geniculato, stigmate
+dilatato truncato.--W. J. H.]
+
+<p>24TH MARCH.--We set off still earlier this morning. I hoped to reach
+the Bokhara, on the West, a river shown on the map sent me by the
+Commissioner of the district, but after travelling about seven miles to the
+northward, I saw rising ground before me, which induced me to turn
+towards our own friendly river the Narran; but it proved to be very far
+from us, while in my search for it, to my surprise, I found it necessary to
+descend several considerable declivities, covered with waterworn
+pebbles. At length a slight opening in the dense scrubs through which we
+had forced our way, afforded a view towards the south-east of the low
+range we were upon, which trended very continuously to the north-west,
+covered thickly with the "Malga" tree of the natives; to the traveller the
+most formidable of scrubs. After several other descents, we reached the
+Narran, but only at half-past three in the afternoon, when we had
+travelled nearly twenty miles. How the teams were to accomplish this, it
+was painful to consider. I sent back a messenger to desire that the cattle
+should be detached and brought forward to the water; content to lose one
+day, if that indeed would suffice to recover the jaded animals. Casuarinae
+now grew amongst the river trees, and reminded me of the banks of the
+Karaula in 1831. We had also noticed another novelty in the woods we
+passed through this day; a small clump of trees of iron-bark with a
+different kind of leaf from that of the tree known by that name in the
+colony. On the higher stony land, a bush was common, and proved to be
+a broad-leaved variety of EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, if not a distinct species.
+We there met with a new species of the rare and little-known genus,
+GEIJERA; forming a strong-scented shrub, about ten feet high, and having
+long, narrow, drooping leaves. Its fruit had a weak, peppery taste.[*] The
+rare ENCHYLOENA TOMENTOSA formed a shrub a foot high, loaded with
+yellow berries: all the specimens were digynous, in which it differed
+from the description of Brown. The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was observed
+amongst the climbing shrubs still in fruit; and a beautiful new LORANTH,
+with red flowers tipped with green, was parasitical on trees.[**] On the
+bank of the Narran we found the AMARANTHUS UNDULATUS of Brown.
+
+<p>[* G. PARVIFLORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis erectis, foliis longis linearibus
+pendulis in petiolum sensim angustatis 4 unc. longis.]
+
+<p>[** LORANTHUS LINEARIFOLIUS (Hook. MS.); foliis lineari-filiformibus acutis
+carnosis glabris teretibus, pedunculis axillaribus brevibus bifloris,
+calycibus cylindraceis truncatis contractis, petalis 6 linearibus supra
+basin coalitis.]
+
+<p>The cattle arrived in the dark, and were watered in the muddy-banked
+Narran, by the light of burning boughs; then set to feed. Lat. 29° 6' 33"
+S.; therm. at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 74°; ditto with wet bulb,
+62°.
+
+<p>25TH MARCH.--The cattle had now to return to bring forward the drays.
+Meanwhile I took a ride up the river, in order to ensure a moderate
+journey for these exhausted animals. Proceeding along the right bank, I
+found gravelly slopes almost closing upon the river. The direction of its
+course for four miles, was nearly southward. Then I saw gravelly ridges
+on the left, and a line of wood before me, while the river evidently came
+from the East round the margin of an extensive plain. I continued
+northward; found a rosewood scrub: then saw the Malga tree; passed
+through scrubs thereof; found myself on stony ridges, whence
+descending in a N. E. direction, again passed through rosewood scrubs,
+and only reached the river after riding 2½ miles in that direction. I saw
+a continuous ridge, bare and distant, beyond what I considered the river
+bed, and a similar ridge to the westward. I crossed a native camp where
+the newly deserted fires still smoked. We saw one man at a distance, who
+did not mind us much; I could not have obtained any information from
+him, and therefore did not seek a parley. Crossing the Narran there, by a
+beaten track, beside a native fishing fence, I returned to the camp, on the
+bearing of S. S. W., and found a grassy plain the whole way back, until
+within sight of the tents, and a good rocky ford for the passage of the
+party next day. On the stony ridge I found a remarkable shrub, a species
+of Sida (ABUTILON), allied to S. GRAVEOLENS, Roxb., but distinct. The teams
+brought the drays in, about 5 p.m.; one animal of all being missing.
+Therm. at sunrise, 72°; at noon, 89°; at 4 p.m., 91°; at 9, 60°;--with
+wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>26TH MARCH.--Early this morning, William Baldock was sent back in
+search of the stray bullock, while the party crossed the Narran, and
+proceeded along my horse's track of yesterday. Baldock over took the
+party, having found the bullock on the river, four miles below our late
+encampment. The natives seen yesterday had disappeared, having
+previously set fire to the grass. We proceeded two miles beyond their
+fires, and encamped on the river bank in lat. 29° 1' 57" S.
+
+<p>A small path along the river margin; marks on trees, where hollow
+portions of bark had been taken off; some ancient, some recent, huts of
+withered boughs and dry grass; freshwater muscle shells, beside the
+ashes of small fires; and, in some places, a small heap of pulled grass
+(PANICUM LOEVINODE), or of the coral plant; such were the slight but
+constant indications of the existence of man on the Narran. Such was the
+only home of our fellow-beings in these parts, and from it they retired on
+our approach. Ducks, which were rather numerous, and emus (coming to
+drink), probably constituted their chief food, as nets to ensnare both these
+kinds of birds, were found about their huts. Youranigh brought me one of
+their chisels, a small bit of iron fastened to a stick with gum, and tied
+with a piece of striped shirting. I directed him to place it carefully where
+he had found it. Thermometer at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m.,
+95°; at 9, 69°;--with wet bulb, 60°. The mean height above the sea of
+the camps of 23d, 24th, and 26th March, was 461 feet.
+
+<p>27TH MARCH.--Pursuing, as well as we could, the course of the Narran,
+which came more from the northward, we again encamped on its banks
+after a journey of seven miles, without recognising any indication of the
+vicinity of the larger stream, which, according to our latitude, we ought
+by this to have reached. The current here had evidently been more
+decided, and dry trunks and other FLUVIATILE DEBRIS lay more in masses
+against whatever had lain in the water's way. Excellent grass clothed the
+plains over which we had passed during the two last days, and grew
+abundantly also about the banks of the river; but, in general, a belt of the
+POLYGONUM JUNCEUM, about 400 or 500 yards wide, grew between the
+immediate margin and the grassy plains. This shrub was found an
+infallible guide to the vicinity of the river, when, as sometimes happened,
+other lines of trees, resembling those on its banks, had led me to a
+distance from it. The day was cool and rather cloudy, a great novelty to
+us; for every day had been clear and unclouded, since long before we
+crossed the Barwan. Abundance of the stones of the quandang fruit
+(FUSANUS ACUMINATUS) lay at an old fire of the natives, and showed that
+we were not far from the northern limit of the great clay basin, as the
+quandang bush grows only upon the lowest slopes of hilly land. Lat. 28°
+55' 13" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 70°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 89; at 9,
+70°;--with wet bulb, 61°.
+
+<p>28TH MARCH.--At 2 a.m., loud thunder was heard in the south-west,
+where a dark cloud arose and passed round to the northward; a few drops
+of rain fell. The morning was otherwise clear, with a cooling breeze from
+S. W. Thermometer at sunrise, 56°. We proceeded, travelling chiefly
+amongst very luxuriant grass. The river now disappeared as far to the
+westward of my northerly course on this left bank, as it had left me when
+on the other bank by unexpected turns to the eastward. I came upon its
+banks after travelling about eight miles. At the spot where I wished to
+place the camp I perceived a native, and with Youranigh's assistance,
+managed to prevent him from running away. He spoke only
+"Jerwoolleroy," a dialect which my native did not understand at all well.
+He told us, however, that this was still the Narran, and pointed N. W. to
+the Balonne. Upon the whole we gathered from him that neither that
+river nor the Bokhara was far from us. I endeavoured to convince him,
+by Youranigh's assurances, and our own civility to him, that we meant no
+harm to any natives, and were only passing through the country. He did
+not seem afraid, although he had never, until then, seen white men. We
+encamped near him. The river channel was very narrow, and contained
+but little water here-abouts. I understood from the native (through
+Youranigh) that the river here spread into various channels, and that
+"BARRO" was the name of a river beyond the Culg, which falls into it
+from the northward; "TOORINGORRA," the lagoon on which we encamped
+after meeting natives on the 31st March. Near this camp we found a
+PHYLLANTHUS, scarcely different from P. SIMPLEX; a SESBANIA near
+S. ACULEATA, but with smaller flowers; and the CHENOPODIUM AURICOMUM,
+formed a white-leaved shrub, three or four feet high. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 56°; at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb,
+56°.
+
+<p>29TH MARCH.--After prayers (the day being Sunday) I sent Mr.
+Kennedy forward to explore the course of the river, in order to ensure a
+more direct line for to-morrow's route. Mr. Kennedy was accompanied
+by one of the men armed, and also by Youranigh, all being mounted. He
+returned in about four hours, having found the river coming from the
+northward, and he also reported favourably of the ground. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 51°;--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>30TH MARCH.--The night had been cool and pleasant, Thermometer at
+sunrise only 42°. The cattle were yoked up early, and we travelled on
+over fine grassy plains, and with open gravelly ridges on our right. At
+length, about the sixth mile, these ridges closed on the river, where there
+was one hill almost clear of trees or bushes. I ascended it, but could only
+see plains to the westward, and a dense line of river-trees running north.
+We at length encamped on what appeared to be still the Narran, after a
+journey of about eight miles.
+
+<p>We this day passed a small group of trees of the yellow gum, a species
+of eucalyptus growing only on the poor sandy soil near Botany Bay, and
+other parts of the sea-coast near Sydney. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at
+4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°. Mean height of the camps
+of the 27th, 28th, and 30th, above the level of the sea, 509 feet.
+
+<p>31ST MARCH.--The various lines of trees were now so much dispersed
+across the country, that to follow the line of the Narran, it was necessary
+to see its ponds and channel as frequently as possible. The course, if not
+of the river, at least of its ana-branches; and there were besides those,
+branches of another kind, namely, true branches coming from the main
+channel, as branches leave the stem of a tree, never to unite with it again.
+Some of those of this description, so closely resembled in every respect
+the Narran, that the difference was only to be distinguished by observing
+the marks of flood on trees, and ascertaining the direction of the current.
+We had crossed several such, and were rather in a "fix" with some
+lagoons, when I perceived several native children in one of them. I
+wished here to intercept some natives who might tell us where was the
+ford of "Congo," where white men had crossed the Balonne, or where
+was the river Balonne. The children fled, but two manly voices were
+heard immediately, and two natives came confidently up to Youranigh
+and then to me. The eldest seemed about fifty-five years of age; the other
+was a lad of about twenty. They spoke of "Congo," and the Balonne
+(BALONGO) as quite at hand, and undertook to conduct us to both. It was
+quite evident from their pronunciation, that "Baloon" was not the proper
+native name, but Bal, the termination they gave it of "GO," being an
+article they very often use, Bal-go being equivalent to THE Balonne; as in
+speaking of the Barwan, they say "Barwàngo." I had nearly completed
+the usual short journey when we fell in with these natives, but I was
+unwilling to lose the advantage of their assistance, and so travelled on
+under their guidance, full five miles further, before I fixed on a spot for
+the camp. This was by a splendid piece of water, named by them
+Tooningora, nearly on a level with the adjacent plains, and covered with
+ducks. We had passed other fine sheets of water guided by our native
+friends, and over a rich grassy country remarkably level and free from
+scrub. It was evidently changed by the vicinity of the larger river. I
+continued to follow our new friends beyond where I had directed the
+party to encamp, in expectation of seeing the marked tree at Congo, and
+the river Balonne. After going forward thus about four miles, we saw
+five gins running off at a great distance across some open plains,
+apparently near the river. The eldest of our guides ran after them, and I
+requested him to assure them that the white men would do no harm, and
+to tell them not to run away. At length he overtook them. Two appeared
+to carry unseemly loads across their backs, dangling under large
+opossum-skin cloaks, and it was evident that these were mummied
+bodies. I had heard of such a custom, but had not before seen it. I had
+then but a distant view of these females, as they resumed their flight, and
+continued it until they reached woods bounding the plain on the
+westward. The line of Yarra trees of the great Balonne river ran parallel
+to our march westward, and there also, according to my guides, was
+"Congo," the ford marked out by my son, and which spot I most
+anxiously desired to see and identify by his initials. Still my guides led
+westward towards the woods, and as we approached them, the shout or
+scream of little Dicky, a native child of the Bogan, follower of my camp,
+first drew my attention to a black phalanx within the forest, of natives
+presenting a front like a battalion. Youranigh my interpreter halted and
+remonstrated: our elder guide ran forward, and on his reaching that body,
+the sound of gruff voices that arose from it strongly reminded me of
+Milton's description of Satan's army:</p>
+
+<blockquote>"Their rising all at once was as the sound<br>
+Of thunder heard remote."</blockquote>
+
+<p>Youranigh would not advance another step, although much pressed by
+the other native remaining with us to do so, but declared that "those
+fellows were murry coola," (very angry). We therefore retraced our
+footsteps to the camp, without having seen either the Balongo or Congo.
+Our guide soon overtook us, accompanied by fourteen of the strange
+natives, who, all curiosity, passed the night at our camp, and they
+brought with them a lad named "Jemmy," who spoke a little English, and
+had visited many of our cattle-stations. He was very intelligible to
+Youranigh, who but very imperfectly understood the language of the rest.
+They seemed upon the whole a frank and inoffensive race. Their food
+consisted of the fish of the river, ducks, and the small indigenous melon,
+CUCUMIS PUBESCENS, which grew in such abundance, that the whole
+country seemed strewed with the fruit, then ripe, and of which the natives
+eat great quantities, and were very fond. It is about the size of a plum
+only, and in the journal of my first interior journey (in 1831), is
+mentioned as a cucumber we were afraid to eat. (Vol. I. p. 88.) Latitude
+of camp, 28° 38' 47" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 42°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at
+9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>1ST APRIL.--The whole party moved off about the usual hour, 7 a.m.,
+still under the guidance of our new acquaintance, towards the Balonne.
+On our way the natives were very careful to point out how muddy
+hollows could best be avoided by our drays. I saw seated at a distance, in
+due form, the tribe to which they belonged; and having directed the party
+to halt, went up to them. They were seated in three groups; old men on
+the right, painted red; old women in the centre, painted white; and other
+women and children on the left. The few strong men who appeared,
+formed a circle around me, and told me their names as they came up to
+me. I desired Youranigh to tell them that we were passing that way
+across the Balonne to a very far-off country, and did not wish to disturb
+them, etc. When all was said that could be said, and I was about to
+return, one of the chiefs, "Yarree," said "good night," words which he
+must have learnt at some cattle station. Although it was only morning, I
+returned the compliment with all possible gravity, and took my leave.
+Soon after, we arrived on the bank of the Balonne, as fine a looking river
+as I have seen in the colony, excepting only the Murray. There was a
+slight current, and the waters lay in broad reaches, under banks less
+elevated above the bed than those of the Darling. In breadth the channel
+surpassed that of the last named river in any part, I believe, of its course.
+
+<p>We encamped near a shallow place, which the natives at first said was
+"Congo," but where we found no marks on the trees. The curiosity of the
+natives having been gratified, they disappeared; but I must mention that,
+having missed the elder of the two men who had guided us here since the
+first evening, I learnt, on inquiring what had become of him, that he had
+gone back to his little boys, whom he had left at the water-holes where
+he first met us, six miles back, and for whom he had apparently gathered
+his little net of melons. Nothing could have been finer than this man's
+conduct. He had at once come on with us to guide us where we wanted to
+go; took great pains to make us known to his own tribe, and, I believe, to
+other assembled tribes at some risk to himself; and then, without
+claiming my promised gifts, he had returned to his little family, left at
+such a distance, only that he might do that which was civil, to us
+strangers. Yet we call these men savages! I fear such disinterested acts of
+civility on the part of the civilised portion of mankind are rather rare. He
+had rendered to us, at all events, a very great service; for the danger of
+sudden collision with the natives was at an end, after our introduction by
+him to the tribes. In the afternoon, Slater, one of the bullock-drivers,
+found a good fording-place; and I sent a few men to cut the banks, and
+fill up a soft part of the river bed with logs, branches, and earth, for the
+better passage of the drays; a work they completed before night. I rode
+about five miles beyond the river to the north-west, and met, first with a
+very broad lagoon full of water, nearly on a level with the plains, and
+apparently permanent; secondly, I found beyond this, a river or chain of
+ponds somewhat like the Narran. This I ascertained was called the
+Càwan by the natives, and that it meandered very much. The country was
+rather fine. These waters were bordered by well-grown trees, and the
+plains were covered with good grass. Lat. of our camp, on the Balonne,
+28° 25' 38" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 79°;
+at 9, 60;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height of the bed of the Balonne above
+the level of the sea, 494 feet; an average of three observations.
+
+<p>2D APRIL.--All the drays and the party crossed the river this morning
+in good order, and without any accident or much delay, by the little
+bridge we had made in its bed. While they were crossing, the place
+seemed to me so favorable for a ford that it might still be possible to find
+some of the marked trees said to be at "Congo." I again questioned the
+natives on this point, and one youth undertook to point out some marks
+made by white men. Mr. Kennedy ran with him on foot up the left bank
+of the river, and was shown two trees marked, the one with "J. Towns,"
+the other with "Bagot, 1845." Being thus convinced that this ford was
+really at or near the place called "Congo," where Commissioner Mitchell
+had crossed, and found the Culgoa, at a distance of only seven miles
+north-west, I determined to go forward, in the same direction, to that
+river, taking my track of yesterday, which enabled me to avoid the broad
+lagoon.
+
+<p>On arriving at the "Cawan" we saw two natives fishing in a pond with
+hoop nets, and Yuranigh went to ask them about the "Culgoa." He
+returned accompanied by a tall athletic man; the other was this man's gin,
+who had been fishing with him. There he had left her to take care of his
+nets, and, without once looking at me or the party, proceeded to conduct
+us to the Culgoa. I never saw a Spanish or Portuguese guide go with a
+detachment half so willingly. Yuranigh and he scarcely understood a
+word of what each other said, and yet the former had the address to
+overcome the usual difficulties to intercourse between strange natives,
+and their shyness to white men, and to induce this native thus to become
+our guide. He took us to the Culgoa, which we made at about seven miles
+from the Balonne, and I was so much pleased with the willing service
+and true civility of this native, that I presented him with an iron
+tomahawk, and I heard him twice ask Yuranigh if it really was meant for
+him to keep. He then hastened back to his gin, whom he had left five
+miles off. This river presented as deep a section as, but a narrower bed
+than, the one we had just left. It had all the characteristics, however, of a
+principal river, and really looked more important than the Barwan,
+except that its waters were not then fluent. Gigantic blue gum trees
+overhang the banks, and the Mimosa grew near the bed of the current. I
+should say that these and much sand were the chief characteristics of the
+Culgoa. There were no recent marks of natives' fires, and I was informed
+that they did not much frequent that part of the river. The grass along the
+banks was very luxuriant. Latitude 28° 31' 19" south. Thermometer at
+sunrise, 39°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb,
+46°. The height of this camp above the level of the sea, being forty feet
+above the bed of the river, 543 feet; from the mean of four observations.
+
+<p>3RD APRIL.--The section of this river being forty feet deep, and the
+banks in general steep, the work necessary to render it passable to our
+heavy drays could not be accomplished yesterday afternoon. This day,
+however, our camp was established on the right bank of the Culgoa.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 35°; at noon, 80°.; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 49°; and
+with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>4TH APRIL.--We were now to proceed along the right bank of the
+Culgoa upwards to the United Balonne, and thence to continue ascending
+along the right bank of that river also, as far as the direction was
+favourable to our progress northward. This remained to be ascertained in
+exploring that river upwards. In gaining the right bank of the Culgoa, we
+had crossed the vast basin of clay extending from the Bogan on the
+south, to this river on the north, and westward to New Year's Range and
+Fort Bourke. That country was liable to be rendered quite impassable,
+had the rains set in. But even in such seasons we could still travel over
+the dry, firm ground bounding this basin of clay on the northward, as the
+left bank of the Bogan was also passable, however rainy the season,
+indeed more conveniently then than during a dry one. Rain, if it had
+fallen at this time, had greatly facilitated our exploration of the northern
+interior; but these rivers we had reached would supply us with water for
+some degrees to the northward, as I had been informed by the
+Commissioner of the district, and in our progress so far, I hoped we
+should arrive at a better watered country.
+
+<p>Taking a northerly course, we traversed fine grassy land, on which
+grew luxuriantly the ACACIA PENDULA and other shrubs, that reminded us
+of the banks of the Bogan, to which country we found here the exact
+counterpart, only that this was better watered. The course of the Culgoa
+was more easterly than I had calculated on, for, after going six miles
+northward, I had to travel at least as many eastward before I again found
+the river. We encamped on the acute north-western angle of an anabranch
+biting into the firm soil, and it was evident that we had reached
+the Balonne Major, or that part above the separation of the Culgoa from
+the Minor Balonne, both of which we had already crossed, and which ran
+thus, as from our camp the lines of trees along each of the minor
+channels were distinctly visible.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-08"></a><img alt="" src="trop-08.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Separation of the Balonne into the Culgoa, Narran, etc.</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>The character of these rivers had been described to me by
+Commissioner Mitchell, the discoverer thereof. It was late before the
+drays came in, and Mr. Kennedy was led into the camp quite blind,
+having been suddenly attacked with purulent ophthalmia, when engaged
+in the survey of our route, about four miles from the camp. The heat had
+somewhat abated, but still this complaint, which we had attributed to it,
+had lately affected many of the party suddenly, as in the case of Mr.
+Kennedy. Latitude, 28° 27' 11" S. Thermometer at sunrise, 33°; at noon,
+83°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9, 53°; with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>5TH APRIL.--The party halted, and I took a ride to explore the course of
+the river, proceeding first northward. In that direction I came upon an
+angle of the Balonne, at about three miles from the camp. Beyond, after
+passing through much ACACIA PENDULA, I crossed a small plain, bounded
+by a Casuarina scrub. Partly to ascertain its extent and character, and
+partly in the hope of falling in with the river beyond, I entered it. I found
+this scrub full of holes, that obliged me to pursue a very tortuous course,
+impeded as I was too by the rugged stems and branches. I got through it,
+only after contending with these impediments for three miles. The
+country beyond it looked not at all like that back from the river, and I
+turned to the N.E., pursuing that course some miles; then eastward two
+miles, and next two miles to the S.E., still without finding any river; but,
+on the contrary, scrub in every direction. The sun was declining, and I
+turned at last to the S.W., and in that direction reached an extensive open
+forest, beyond which I saw at length the river line of trees. I continued to
+ride S.S.W., and finally south, until I saw our cattle grazing, and the
+tents, without having regained first, as I wished, my outward track. On
+the bank of the Balonne we found an apparently new species of
+ANDROPOGON with loose thin panicles of purplish flowers, and in the scrub
+I passed through, in my ride, I found a CASUARINA, indeterminable in the
+absence of flowers or fruit. It produces a gall as large as a hazel nut.
+Thermometer at sunrise, 37°; at noon, 90°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 57°;
+--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>6TH APRIL.--Mr. Kennedy's eyes being still very bad, I could not
+proceed, as the survey of our route was very important, in order to keep
+our account of longitude correctly. The necks of the cattle were much
+galled, and I therefore the more willingly halted another day. It was not
+without some impatience, however, that I did so, as we were approaching
+a point whence I could set out with horses to the north-west, and leave
+the cattle to refresh in a depôt on this fine river, which afforded an
+excellent base for our exploratory operations, in the wholly unknown
+regions immediately beyond it. This line of exploration I had anxiously
+wished to pursue in 1831, when obliged to return from the Karaula or
+Upper Barwan; and whatever had since been ascertained about that part
+of the interior, confirmed me the more in my first opinion as to the
+eligibility of that direction. It had occurred to me, on crossing the
+Culgoa, that by marking deeply on a tree, at each camp, a number of
+reference, our survey might be more practically useful and available to
+the colonists, as connecting so many particular localities therewith. I
+therefore marked that No. I. in Roman numerals; this II., and I shall add
+in this journal, at the end of the narrative of each day's proceedings,
+whatever number or mark may be made to distinguish the place of
+encampment described.
+
+<p>In the scrub near this, we observed an Acacia, apparently new, a broadleaved,
+white-looking wattle. There was also a branching Composite,
+which Sir W. Hooker has determined to be a very distinct and undoubted
+species of FLAVERIA of which all the other species are natives of the New
+World.[*] The CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was also found here growing on
+EXOCARPUS APHYLLA of Brown; it was found by Allan Cunningham and
+Frazer on Liverpool Plains, also, at Swan River. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 44°; at noon, 95°; at 4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb,
+57°. Height above the sea, 497 feet.
+
+<p>[* FLAVERIA AUSTRALASICA (Hook. MSS.) foliis lineari-lanceolatis
+integerrimis basi dilatatis, capitulis densissime globoso-fasciculatis,
+fasciculis subinvolucratis, bracteis exterioribus praecipue fasciculos
+superantibus omnibus late amplexantibus.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-09"></a><img alt="" src="trop-09.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The River Balonne, 7th April</b></p>
+</center>
+
+
+<p>7TH APRIL.--When all were preparing to set off early this morning, I
+was informed that two bullocks were missing, and a third fast in the mud
+on the river bank. The two stray animals were soon found; but it was
+impossible to bring on the other in the mud, for he was blown, from
+having drunk too much water, after over-eating himself with grass. Our
+journey was continued round one angle of the river in my horse's track.
+Afterwards turning to the N. E., we crossed two miles of open forest
+land, where the grass was good, and having the river in sight. At length,
+even on an easterly course we could not keep it longer in view, but got
+involved in a scrub on soft red sand. Emerging from this on a course of
+E. S. E., we again got upon open ground, and soon saw the majestic trees
+of the river in a line circling round to the northward. Coming upon it at
+an angle where scrubs of rosewood and ACACIA PENDULA crowned the
+slopes, we encamped on a beautiful spot. The river was magnificent,
+presenting a body of water of such breadth, as I had only seen in one
+other river of Australia, and the banks were grassy to the water's edge.
+
+<p>This day, "Jemmy," a young native whom we had seen on the Minor
+Balonne, came to our camp with another youth, and the voices of a tribe
+were heard in the woods. As Jemmy had not kept his word formerly,
+having left us suddenly, and was evidently a scamp, I peremptorily
+ordered him away. I had heard of his having brought gins to my camp at
+night on the former occasion, and he was very likely to be the cause of
+mischief, and could not, or at least, would not, render us any service. We
+desired no further intercourse, at that time, with the natives, as those with
+us did not understand their language. The misfortunes of Mr. Finch arose
+through that sort of intercourse with his men, and had arrested my
+journey fifteen years ago, when I had advanced to within forty miles of
+this camp, intent on those discoveries I hoped at length to make even
+now. I had good reason, therefore, to keep the natives at a distance here,
+at a time, too, when the bodies of six white men were said to be still
+uninterred in this neighbourhood. A species of CYPERUS with panicled
+globular heads of flowers was found here in the sloping bank.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 97°; at 4 p.m. 97°; at 9, 69°;
+--with wet bulb 57°. Height above the sea 634 feet. Latitude 28° 23' 59"
+S. (Camp III.)
+
+<p>8TH APRIL.--We continued our journey nearly northward, keeping the
+river woods in sight, as much as the country permitted. An arm or anabranch,
+at first containing much water, and coming from the north, was
+on our right for some miles. In following it, our natives found the tracks
+of three horses, one only having had shoes on, and two foals, as if
+proceeding first towards our camp, then returning. The branch from the
+river became dry and sandy, but still we followed its course. We saw
+about a mile to the eastward, beyond this dry channel, a splendid sheet of
+water on a level with the general surface, and having extensive tracts of
+emerald green vegetation about it. The dry channel obliged me to make a
+longer journey than I had intended. At length, on finding the requisite
+water in its bed, I encamped. This was near a pond, on whose sandy
+margin we saw still the tracks of the three horses that had been there to
+drink. The scrubs came close to the river with intervals of grassy plain.
+The ACACIA PENDULA, and its concomitant shrubs, the SANTALUM
+OBLONGATUM, and others, gave beauty to the scenery, and with abundance
+of water about, all hands considered this a very fine country. At sunset,
+thunder-clouds gathered in the S. W., and at about 7 p.m. the storm
+reached our camp, accompanied by a sudden, very strong gale from the
+S. E. The lightning was very vivid, and for half an hour it rained heavily.
+By 8 p.m. it was over, and the serene sky admitted of an observation of
+Regulus, by which the latitude was found to be 28° 17' 8" S. (No. IV.)
+Thermometer at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 91°; at 4 p.m. 94°; at 9, 66°;
+--with wet bulb 63°.
+
+<p>9TH APRIL.--The branches of the river, and flats of Polygonum,
+obliged me to follow a N. W. course. I did so most willingly, as we had
+already got further to the eastward than I wished. The arm of the river
+spread into a broad swamp, in which two of the drays sank, the drivers
+having taken no notice of a tree I had laid across the track, to show where
+the carts had been backed out. I made them unload the drays and carry
+the loads to firm ground. Keeping afterwards along the margin of this
+swamp for many miles, I perceived abundance of water in it, and passed
+the burning fires of natives, where their water kids and net gear hung on
+trees about. At length, upon turning to the eastward, I came upon the
+main river, where it formed a noble reach, fully 120 yards wide, and
+sweeping round majestically from N. E. to S. E. We here encamped, after
+a long journey. The banks were grassy to the water's edge. We saw large
+fishes in it; ducks swam on it, and, at some distance, a pair of black
+swans. This surpassed even the reach at camp III., and I must add, that
+such an enormous body of permanent water could be seen nowhere else
+in New South Wales save in the river Murray during its floods. The
+Anthistiria grew abundantly where we encamped, which was in latitude,
+28° 13' 34" S. and marked V. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon, 94°;
+at 4 p.m., 97°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>10TH APRIL.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed small grassy plains,
+fringed with rosewood and other acacias; but, in order to keep near the
+river, I was soon obliged to turn more towards the east, as Callitris scrubs
+were before me. In avoiding these, I again came upon the more open and
+firm ground adjacent to the river, and saw its course in the line of large
+Yarra trees, which always point out its banks with their white and
+gnarled arms. I may here state that the scrubs generally consist of a soft
+red sandy soil; the land near the river, of clay, which last is by far the
+best of the two soils for crossing with wheel carriages; the soft red sand
+being almost as formidable an impediment in some situations as mud. At
+length, in travelling N. eastward, we came upon a spacious lagoon,
+extending westward, and covered with ducks. Perceiving, by drift marks,
+that it came from the West, I kept along its margin, following it as it
+trended round to N. E., where we arrived at the main channel, about that
+part whence the waters of the lagoon emanate during high floods. That
+lagoon presented an excellent place for a cattle-station. Water could
+never fail, as the main stream was at hand, if even the lagoon dried up,
+which seemed not at all likely. PSORALEA ERIANTHA was abundant in the
+bed of the river, along with INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA, and CROTALARIA
+MITCHELLII.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 99°; at 4 p.m., 97° at
+9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+<p>[* C. MITCHELLII (Benth. MS.) erecta, ramulis flavescenti-tomentosis,
+stipulis parvis subulatis, foliis ovali-ellipticis obtusis retusisve basi
+angustatis supra glabris subtus calycibusque subsericeo-pubescentitomentosis,
+bracteolis in pedicello brevissimo minutis setaceis, legumine
+sessili glabro. Allied to C. RETUSA and SERICEA, but flowers much smaller,
+in short dense spikes. It agrees in most respects with the short character
+of C. NOVOE HOLLANDIOE, etc., but the leaf is not articulated on the footstalk,
+and the stipules exist.]
+
+<p>11TH APRIL.--Proceeding due north we had the river close on our right
+hand, when two miles on. After making a slight detour to avoid a gully
+falling into it, we continued the same course over open forest land, and,
+at length, saw an immense sheet of water before us, with islands in it.
+This was also a lagoon supplied by floods in the Balonne. It was covered
+with ducks, pelicans, etc. I called it Lake Parachute, no natives being
+near to give me their name for it. I must here add that the true aboriginal
+name is not Baloon, however, but Balonne, and this I the more readily
+adopt to avoid the introduction of a name so inappropriate amongst
+rivers. I was obliged to turn this lagoon, by moving some way about to
+my right, for it sent forth a deep arm to the S. W. which lay across my
+intended route. Continuing to travel northward, we arrived upon the
+banks of a lagoon, where they resembled those of the main channel,
+having trees of the same kind and fully as large. The breadth was very
+uniform, and as great as that of the river, so that it seemed this had once
+been the bed of the Balonne. We crossed it at a dry part of the swamp,
+the waters extending and increasing in it to the eastward. In the opposite
+direction it was equally uniform and continuous, but apparently dry. On
+crossing this old channel, I turned sharply to the N. E., aware that it is
+usually at acute angles in a river's course that such overflowings break
+out. I found it necessary in the present case to turn eastward, and even to
+the southward of east before I could find the river again. At length we
+came upon the channel divided amongst ridges of sand, where the waters
+took a sharp turn and broke thus into separate currents. I was now very
+desirous to select a camp where the cattle might remain to rest and
+refresh while I proceeded with a small party to the N. W. This place did
+not please me, having been too scrubby, the water not well tasted, and
+the grass dry, therefore liable to be set on fire by the natives, or by
+accident. A bulbous species of CYPERUS grew on the bank of the Balonne,
+and in the river we found the common European reed, ARUNDO
+PHRAGMITES: a Loranthus allied to L. LINEARIFOLIUS, but with broader
+leaves, grew on some of the trees, and we saw a fine new species of
+ADRIANIA.[*] (No. VII.) Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 102°; at 4 P.
+M., 104°; at 9, 69°; with wet bulb, 62°. Average height above the sea, of
+camps V. VI. and VII., 559 feet.
+
+<p>[* A. HETEROPHYLLA (Hooker MSS.) foliis ovato-acuminatis grosse sinuatoserratis
+integris cordatisve trifidis, utrinque bracteisque glaberrimis.]
+
+<p>12TH APRIL.--I accordingly put the party in motion at an early hour,
+and soon came upon the river, where it formed a noble reach of water
+and came from the westward, a new direction, which, with the sand that
+had for some days appeared in shallow parts of its bed, raised my hopes
+that this river might be found to come from the north-west, a direction it
+maintained for five miles. The breadth was uniform, and the vast body of
+water was a most cheering sight. The banks were 120 yards apart, the
+course in general very straight, contributing much to the perspective of
+the scenery upon it. At one turn, denuded rocks appeared in its bed,
+consisting of ironstone in a whitish cement or matrix, which might have
+been decomposed felspar. I at length arrived at a natural bridge of the
+same sort of rock, affording easy and permanent access to the opposite
+bank, and at once selected the spot for a dépôt camp, which we
+established on a fine position commanding long vistas both up and down
+the river. It was, in fact, a tête-de-pont overlooking the rocky passage
+which connected the grass on both sides. This was No. VIII., and in
+latitude 28° 1' 37''. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 P.
+M., 101°; at 9, 74°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>13TH APRIL.--Here I could leave the jaded cattle to refresh, while, with
+a small party on horse-back, I could ascertain the farther course of the
+river, and explore the country to the north-west where centred all my
+hopes of discovery. I set on foot various preparations, such as the
+stuffing of saddles, shoeing of horses, drying of mutton, and, first of all
+in importance, though last likely to be accomplished, the making a pair
+of new wheels for a cart to carry water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at
+noon, 100°; at 4 p.m., 101°; at 9, 67°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>15TH APRIL.--This day I sent Mr. Kennedy to examine the country in
+the direction of 331½°, my intended route, and he returned about 10 P.
+M., having seen what he considered indications of the river on his right
+when about twelve miles from the camp, and plains to the left. Upon the
+whole, I resolved, from what he said of the scrubs he had met with, to
+travel north-west, that direction being perpendicular to the general course
+of this river, and therefore the most likely to lead the soonest to higher
+ground. Thermometer, at sunrise, 68°; at noon, 104°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at
+9, 72°;--with wet bulb, 67°.
+
+<p>16TH APRIL.--In order better to contend with the difficulty of wanting
+water, and be better prepared for it, I formed my party rather of infantry
+than cavalry, taking only two horses, drawing a cart loaded chiefly with
+water, and six trusty men, almost all old soldiers. We were thus prepared
+to pass several nights without requiring other water than that we carried
+with us. I hoped thus to be enabled to penetrate the scrubs, and reach,
+and perhaps cross, the higher land bounding this great basin. Our first
+day's progress, being rather experimental, did not extend above ten miles.
+I had been obliged to send back the shaft horse, and exchange him for a
+better, as our load of water was heavy. The day was very sultry.
+Thermometer 105° Fahrenheit, in the shade. We had passed over ground
+more open than I expected, but by no means clear of scrubs.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 64°; at 4 p.m., 105°; at 9, 71°;--with wet
+bulb, 67°.
+
+<p>17TH APRIL.--The messenger returned early with two horses, one being
+my own second charger, which I put as leader to the cart. We then got
+forward on foot as fast as the men could walk, or rather as fast as they
+could clear a way for the cart. We passed through much scrub, but none
+was of the very worst sort. The natives' marks on trees were numerous,
+and the ground seemed at first to fall westward as to some water-course;
+and, after travelling about five miles, there appeared a similar indication
+of water to the eastward of our route. At one place even the white-barked
+gum trees appeared; but, although they had the character of river trees,
+we found they grew on an elevated piece of clay soil. After completing
+about ten miles, I halted for two hours to rest the horses, where there was
+a patch of good grass, and we gave them some water from our stock. The
+mercurial column afforded no indication that we were at all higher than
+our camp overlooking the river, and it seemed, therefore, not improbable
+that we might meet with some other channel or branch of that prolific
+river. After resting two hours we continued, passing through woods
+partly of open forest trees, and partly composed of scrub. Towards the
+end of our day's journey, we crossed land covered with good grass, and
+having only large trees on it, so thinly strewed as to be of the character of
+the most open kind of forest land. Saw thereon some very large
+kangaroos, and throughout the day we had found their tracks numerous.
+We finally set up our bivouac a little before sunset, on a grassy spot
+surrounded by scrub. In this scrub I found the CLEOME FLAVA of Banks,
+and the strong-smelling AMBRINA CARINATA. A very remarkable whiteness
+appeared on the leaves of the EUCALYPTUS POPULIFOLIUS, which, on very
+close examination, appeared to be the work of an insect.[*] On the plains
+the SALSOLA AUSTRALIS formed a round bush, which, when loose from its
+very slight root, was liable to be blown about. Thermometer at sunrise,
+71°; at 9 P. M, 68°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>[* The following letter from Mr. Westwood to Dr. Lindley relates to
+specimens of this brought to England:--
+
+<p>"I am sorry that the state of the specimens from Sir Thomas Mitchell
+(or rather, I should say, the time when they were gathered) does
+not allow me to say much about the insect by which they are formed.
+It is an extremely beautiful production, quite unlike any thing I
+have yet seen, and is, I have no doubt, the scale of a coccus. It
+is of a very peculiar form, resembling a very delicate, broad, and
+flattened valve of a bi-valve shell, such as the genus Iridina, the
+part where the hinge is being a little produced and raised, and forming
+the cover of the coccus which secretes the beautiful material just
+in the same unexplained way as the scale insects form the slender
+attenuated scales beneath which they are born. I could not discover any
+insect beneath the specimens of Sir Thomas Mitchell's production in a
+state sufficient to determine what it really is, as I only found one or two
+exceedingly minute atoms of shrivelled up insects. It is extremely brittle,
+and looks more like dried, white, frothed sugar than any thing else."]
+
+<p>18TH APRIL.--A pigeon had flown last evening over our camp in a N.
+N. E. direction, and as the ground sloped that way, and the men believed
+that water was there, I rode this morning in that direction, leaving the
+other horses to feed in the meantime. At two miles from our bivouac I
+found some hollows in a scrub where the surface consisted of clay, and
+which evidently at some seasons contained water, although they were
+then dry. Polygonum grew around them, and I doubt not that after a fall
+of rain water would remain there some time. On riding two miles
+beyond, in the same direction, I found open forest land only. The country
+was well covered with good grass, very open, yet finely wooded. We
+again proceeded north-west over some fine forest land. The soil was,
+however, only soft red sand, and made it very heavy work for our horses
+drawing the watercart.
+
+<p>On passing through a Casuarina scrub, we entered upon a different
+kind of country as to wood and grass, the soil being much the same, or
+still more loose and sandy. The surface bore a sterile heathy appearance,
+and the trees consisted chiefly of a stunted box, growing but thinly.
+Instead of grass, black, half-burnt roots of a wiry plant appeared, which I
+afterwards found in flower (SEE INFRÀ), and one small, shrubby, brown
+bush, very much resembling heath; apparently a Chenopod with heathlike
+leaves, and globular hairy heads of flowers. The roots of the firstmentioned
+plant presented much obstruction to our cart-wheels in
+passing over the soft sand. As I stood awaiting the cart's arrival, some
+birds drew my attention, as I perceived I had attracted theirs. They
+descended to the lowest branches of the tree in whose shade I stood, and
+seemed to regard my horse with curiosity. On my imitating their chirp
+one fluttered down, and attempted to alight on my horse's ears. On my
+whistling to them, one whistled some beautifully varied notes, as soft as
+those of an octave flute, although their common chirp was harsh and
+dissonant. The male and female seemed to have very different plumage,
+especially about the head; that on the one having the varying tint of the
+Rifle bird, the head of the other more resembling in colour, that of the
+DACELO GIGANTEUS. They were about the size of a thrush, and seemed the
+sole residents of that particular spot, and I had not seen them elsewhere.
+The carts came slowly forward, the horses being much distressed. I
+continued to ride some miles ahead, and passed through a scrub in a clay
+hollow, to which succeeded another open forest country with more of the
+soft red sand. The people with the cart could not overtake me, and I
+returned. Meeting them at a rather bad place, I determined to encamp at
+some patches of grassy ground somewhat out of our line, in latitude, 27°
+43' S. It is remarkable that, according to the barometer, we had not
+ascended higher than our depôt camp on the river, at a distance of nearly
+forty miles from it. I had just quitted my horse's back, and had resolved
+to return, when two horsemen were seen approaching along our track.
+They were two of our party come from the depôt to bring me a despatch,
+which had been forwarded by Commissioner Wright, communicating the
+news of Dr. Leichardt's return from Port Essington, and enclosing the
+Gazette with his own account of his journey. Thus it became known to us
+that we could no longer hope to be the first to reach the shores of the
+Indian Ocean by land. Thermometer, at sunrise, 62°; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9,
+71°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>19TH APRIL,--I left the men with the cart, to follow while I rode
+forward along its track, and sat down to peruse the newspapers sent me,
+until the cart overtook me in the evening, the horses being quite
+exhausted by the heat and the heavy sand. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°;
+at noon, 86°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>20TH APRIL.--The men who brought the despatches yesterday having
+been ordered to bring fresh horses this day from the depôt, I sent our
+tired animals on thither at once, as we could give them but a limited
+quantity of water. I rode forward also to the camp, and met the fresh
+horses about half-way. I immediately ordered the repair of the wheels of
+another light cart, determined to lose no time in exploring a passage
+towards the head of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon,
+95; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+<p>21ST APRIL.--The cart came in about 9 a.m. The morning was
+cloudy, for the first time this month, and a slight shower fell. Had three
+or four days' rain fallen at that time, it would have enabled me to have
+explored by much less circuitous routes, than along the bank of this great
+river, the country to the north-west. In this case, the tour from which I
+had just returned might have been continued, as I wished and intended,
+had it been possible to find water, to the mountains or higher ground,
+whatever it might be that formed the limits to this basin on that side.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 65°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 60°;
+--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>22D APRIL.--The clouds continued to lower, and a great change in the
+temperature accompanied this visible change in the sky, but the mercurial
+column remained uncommonly steady. Arrangements for a concentrated
+party engrossed my attention so fully this day, with the insertion also of
+our late work on the general map, that even the newspapers from the
+colony lay unread. Mr. Kennedy took a ride across the river in a S. S. E.
+direction, and found a fine grazing country with open forest, as far as he
+went, which was about twelve miles. On the banks of the Balonne,
+during my absence, they had found, besides a small bearded CYPERUS, a
+new creeping PSORALEA [*], and a new species of Acacia, which Mr.
+Bentham has named A. VARIANS.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 41°; at noon,
+76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 61°;--with wet bulb, 56°. Mean elevation of
+this camp above the level of the sea, being 50 feet above the river, 623
+feet.
+
+<p>[* P. ERIANTHA (Benth. MS.) prostrata, canescenti-pubescens, foliis
+pinnatim trifoliolatis, foliolis ovatis oblongisve dentatis, pedunculis
+elongatis multifloris, floribus inferioribus remotis superioribus
+approximatis, calycibus pube molli albida dense tomentosis, legumine
+molliter villoso.]
+
+<p>[* A. VARIANS (Benth. MS.) glabra, pallida v. glauca, ramulis subangulatis,
+phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis v. inferioribus late obovatis summisve
+linearibus, omnibus basi longe angustatis apice obtusis v. oblique
+mucronatis subimmarginatis vix obscure glanduliferis uninervibus
+tenuiter reticulato-penniveniis, capitulis sub 20-floris solitariis
+subracemosis v. in racemos foliatos dispositis, calycibus truncatis,
+legumine glabro crasso sublignoso. Very near A. SALICINA, and possibly a
+mere variety; but the phyllodia are generally considerably broader, and
+the inflorescence different.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-10"></a><img alt="" src="trop-10.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map IV. Advance to the Maranòa, and route returning to  St. George's Bridge</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter04"></a>
+<h4>Chapter IV.</h4>
+
+
+<blockquote>ADVANCE WITH A LIGHT PARTY--LEAVING THE REMAINDER WITH THE BULLOCKS
+AND DRAYS TO REST THREE WEEKS AT ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--DISCOVER A RIVER
+JOINING THE BALONNE FROM THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS IT, AND STILL TRACE
+THE BALONNE UPWARDS.--FINE RIVER SCENERY.--VAST PLAINS EXTENDING TO
+THE EASTERN HORIZON DISCOVERED FROM A TREE.--TRIBUTARY FROM THE
+NORTH-WEST--AND RICH PLAINS.--TRACE THIS SMALL RIVER UPWARDS.--EXCELLENT
+COUNTRY FOR GRAZING PURPOSES.--MOUNTAINS, SEEN AT LENGTH, TO THE
+NORTHWARD.--NATIVES AT OUR CAMP.--ASCEND MOUNT FIRST VIEW.--MOUNT
+INVITING.--ASCEND MOUNT RED CAP.--RIDE TO THE BORDERS OF FITZROY
+DOWNS, AND ASCEND MOUNT ABUNDANCE.--THE BOTTLE TREE.--ASCEND MOUNT
+BINDÀNGO.--DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER "AMBY."--DANGEROUS FOLLOWERS OF
+A CAMP.--RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--ASCEND A TRAPITIC RANGE.--A
+GAP OR GOOD OPENING THROUGH IT FOUND FOR THE CARTS.--SMALL RIVER
+DISCOVERED BEYOND, CONTAINING ONE POND OF WATER.--THE CHANNEL DISAPPEARS
+ON OPEN FLATS.--DISCOVER THE RIVER MARAN.--SELECT A POSITION FOR A
+DEPÔT.--RIDE OF RECONNOISSANCE TO THE NORTHWARD.--RIDE INTO THE WESTERN
+INTERIOR.--ASCEND MOUNT LONSDALE.--EXTENSIVE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--WATER
+NOT VERY PLENTIFUL.--RETURN TO THE CAMP.--ASCEND A HIGH POINT TO THE
+EASTWARD.--VIEW THENCE OF THE SUMMITS OF A RANGE TO THE NORTHWARD.--CAMP
+VISITED BY HOSTILE NATIVES DURING MY ABSENCE.--ARRIVAL OF MR. KENNEDY
+WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE PARTY.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE HOSTILITY OF THE
+CHIEF AND TRIBE AT "TAGANDO."--VARIOUS PREPARATIONS MADE FOR AGAIN
+ADVANCING WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--DEPÔT CAMP ESTABLISHED ON THE MARAN.</blockquote>
+
+<p>23RD APRIL.--Our little party started at noon. I took with me eight
+men, two native boys, twelve horses, besides my own two, and three
+light carts with provisions for ten weeks--determined, if possible, to
+penetrate northward, into the interior country, and ascertain where the
+division of the waters was likely to be found. I intended, with this view,
+to trace upwards the course of the Balonne, until I found mountains to
+the north-westward of it; then, to endeavour to turn them by the west,
+and thus acquire some knowledge on that most interesting point, the
+watershed towards the Gulf. I left instructions with Mr. Kennedy to
+follow my track with the drays and main body of the party, and to set out
+on Monday, the 4th of May, when the cattle would have had three weeks'
+rest.
+
+<p>The first few miles of this day's journey were along a clayey flat or
+hollow, which enabled me to avoid scrubby and sandy ground on each
+side. I believed its direction (N. E.), to be about parallel to the river.
+Leaving it at length to make the river, I met with rather a thick scrub; but
+came upon the river where the banks were very rocky and picturesque.
+Its course seemed to be from N. E.; but, following another flat of firm
+clay, I got again into scrub so thick that I turned eastward towards the
+river, and travelled along its bank until I encamped in lat. 27° 56' 12" S.
+There was but little water in the bed of the river there; but long islands of
+sand, water-worn banks, with sloping grassy bergs behind. The bed, in
+most places, consisted of rock, the same ferruginous conglomerate, or
+clay ironstone, seen in the same river lower down. Grass was excellent
+and abundant on the bergs and near the river, but thick scrub crowned
+these bergs on our side. It was too late to admit of my examining the
+other. On our way through the scrub this day, we saw the ENOCARPUS
+SPARTEA of Brown, a leaf-like wing-branched shrub; and the beautiful
+parasite, LORANTHUS AURANTIACUS, occupied the branches of Eucalyptus.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at 9 p.m., 47°;--with wet bulb, 41°.
+[* The dates on the map show my camps; the Roman numerals those
+afterwards taken up by Mr. Kennedy, in following my track with the
+main body.]
+
+<p>24TH APRIL.--Set off early, travelling along the bank. The direction
+was N. N. W. and N. W. For the first few miles, the scenery was wild
+and very fine. Masses of rock, lofty trees, shining sands and patches of
+water, in wild confusion, afforded evidence of the powerful current that
+sometimes moved there and overwhelmed all. At this time, the outlines
+were wild, the tints sublimely beautiful. Mighty trees of Casuarinae, still
+inclined as they had been made to bend before the waters, contrasted
+finely with erect Mimosae, with prostrate masses of driftwood, and with
+perpendicular rocks. Then the hues of the Anthistiria grass, of a redbrown,
+contrasted most harmoniously with the light green bushes, grey
+driftwood, blue water, and verdure by its margin; all these again
+--grass, verdure, driftwood, and water--were so opposed to the dark
+hues of the Casuarinae, Mimosae, and rifted rocks, that a Ruysdael, or a
+Gains-borough, might there have found an inexhaustible stock of
+subjects for their pencil. It was, indeed, one continuous Ruysdael.</p>
+
+<blockquote>"That artist lov'd the sternly savage air,<br>
+And scarce a human image plac'd he there."</blockquote>
+
+<p>May the object of our journey be successful, thought I then; and we
+may also hope that these beauties of nature may no longer "waste their
+sweetness in the desert air;" and that more of her graces may thus be
+brought within the reach of art. Noble reaches next extended in fine
+perspective before us; each for several miles, presenting open grassy
+margins along which we could travel on firm ground unimpeded by
+scrub. At length I perceived before me a junction of rivers, and could see
+along each of them nearly a mile. I had no alternative but to follow up
+that nearest to me, and found upon its bank many recent encampments of
+natives; at one of which the fires were still burning. The country was
+grassy, and so open, as almost to deserve the colonial name of "plain."
+This channel took me a long way northward, and to the N. N. E.; but
+finally turned west, and at last south. Its bed was full of sand; and at
+length we found it quite dry, so that, when I would have encamped, I
+could find no water. Yet it bore all the character of a large river; marks of
+high floods, Mimosae, sand, and river driftwood, like the other. It might,
+and probably did, finally come out of the main channel; but this seemed
+too remote a contingency for our wants then, and I crossed it, to look for
+the other. In riding eastward, I found a wide plain bounded by trees that
+looked like those along the river. No time could be spared for further
+reconnoissance: I took the party across, and made for the nearest part.
+My course was first N. E., then East, finally South, in following the
+various slopes; and it was only after travelling fifteen miles beyond the
+point where I met with this river, that I reached the bank of the other, at a
+spot distant only FOUR miles from where I had quitted it. This was only
+accomplished at forty minutes after 4 p.m., when we had travelled
+twenty-six miles. As our circuitous route was likely, if followed by Mr.
+Kennedy with the heavy drays, to cause delay and inconvenience, I
+resolved to halt next day, and write to him on the subject, explaining how
+he could most readily fall into my track by crossing the other channel,
+quitting first the other track, at a spot to be marked by Graham, who took
+the letter. Nevertheless, it had been imperative on me to follow it up as I
+had done; because, whether as a separate tributary or an ana-branch only,
+the right bank was likely to suit us best, provided only that water could
+have been found in its bed. Near the new river, the INDIGOFERA HIRSUTA of
+Linnaeus, with its spikes of reflexed hairy pods, was common; and also
+the MOSCHOSMA POLYSTACHYUM. Lat. 27° 47' 57'' S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 38°; at 9 p.m., 59°;--with wet bulb, 56°.
+
+<p>25TH APRIL.--</p>
+
+<blockquote>"The dawn is overcast, the morning lowers,<br>
+And heavily in clouds brings on the day."</blockquote>
+
+<p>A grateful change in the weather promised rain; but suggested to me a
+contingency for which I had not provided in my letter to Mr. Kennedy,
+and Graham was gone. A flood coming down, might fill the channel of
+the other, and prevent Mr. Kennedy's party from crossing to fall into my
+track; or, if that should finally prove only an ana-branch, shut me up in
+an island. On this point I again, therefore, wrote to Mr. Kennedy, and
+buried my letter at the spot marked by Graham, and according to marks
+on trees, as I had previously arranged with him. I then instructed him to
+examine the dry channel far enough upwards (halting his party for the
+day) to ascertain whether it was a separate river, or an ana-branch; and,
+in the latter case, to keep along its banks, and so avoid the possible
+difficulty of crossing it during rainy weather. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+65°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 63°. Mean
+height above the sea, 586 feet.
+
+<p>26TH APRIL.--Sunday. Corporal Graham returned from the depôt camp
+at 1 p.m. The sky continued cloudy, and the barometer low. High wind
+from the west arose about 3 p.m. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon,
+78°; at 4 p.m., 78°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>27TH APRIL.--The party set off early. We found that a river from the
+north joined the channel we were about to follow up in its course from
+the east. The northern river contained water in abundance; and I
+determined to follow it up so long as the course was favourable, and
+water remained in it. The general course was much the same as that of
+the first (about 39 E. of N.). The bed and ponds increased; and after
+following it up about eleven miles, I encamped the party, and rode
+northward to ascertain if it was likely to change its course. In ten
+minutes, I came upon a splendid reach, extending north-west as far as I
+could see it. Lat. of our camp, 27° 42' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+37°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 72°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 55°.
+
+<p>28TH APRIL.--Masses of a ferruginous rock extended across the river
+bed like a dyke, in a N. W. and S. E. direction; and as the river here
+broke through these rocks, changing, at a sharp angle, its course to the S.
+W., it seemed probable that the general course from above might be
+parallel to these rocks. Continuing along the bank, we found the reaches
+large, full of water; the country clear of scrub and covered with luxuriant
+grass. One singular flat sweeping round to the W. S. W. was covered
+with the rich grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. The tropical PEROTIS RARA, a
+delicate grass, producing long purple tufts of reflexed bristles, was also
+here observed. The general direction of the river was towards the N. W.,
+and whenever it took any turn towards the east, I continued to travel
+northward, and thus, on three occasions, came upon its bank again,
+cutting off detours I must otherwise have described in following its
+course. We encamped on a beautiful spot, the sight of which would have
+rejoiced the heart of a stockholder. A fresh westerly breeze blew during
+the day, and we were as free from the annoyance of heat, as if we had
+been in England during the same month. Latitude 27° 32' 37" S. The
+direction of the river's course was uncommonly straight, and its long
+sweeping reaches, full of water, seemed capable of being rendered
+available for the purpose of forming water communications. The surface
+of the adjacent country presented a thin deposit of sand, near the river,
+attesting the great height to which its waters sometimes rise; and minor
+features of ground near, showed, in their water-worn sections, that they
+had been wholly deposited by the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at
+4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>29TH APRIL.--The tendency of the soft earth of the banks to break into
+gullies, branching back into impervious scrubs, was such as to prevent
+me from either seeing much of the river during this day's journey, or
+pursuing a straight course. At one place I could only follow the grassy
+margin of the river, by passing between its channel and the berg, all
+seared as it was with water-worn gullies, and crowned with scrub; but I
+was soon locked up under these where a bad hole impeded our progress
+along the river, and I was obliged to back the carts out, the best way I
+could. While travelling along the margin I perceived a slight current in a
+gravelly part of the bed. I had previously observed a whitish tinge like
+that of a fresh in the river water, this day and yesterday, doubtless the
+product of the late rain, and probably from these clay gullies. After a
+circuitous journey, we came out on a clear grassy brow over-looking
+much open country. There I still met with heads of gullies, but could
+easily avoid them, and after traversing a fine grassy plain, we encamped
+as near the river as the gullies would allow, in latitude 27° 28' 27". One
+of the party, John Douglas, from the top of a tree, discovered vast plains
+in the N. E. extending to the horizon, a river line pursuing a northerly
+course, and in the N. W. a mass of cloud hung over what he supposed to
+be mountains. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 47°;
+with wet bulb, 44°.
+
+<p>30TH APRIL.--Obliged to keep at some distance from the river, I came
+upon open forest land, where gentle undulations took the place of the
+rugged gullies. Thus we travelled over a beautiful country, due north,
+with sufficient indications of the river on our right, in the slopes that all
+fell to that side. There were ponds in some hollows, and we made the
+river itself at various parts of our route. At length, where it bit on a high
+scrubby bank, I again proceeded northward and came upon a large
+lagoon, sweeping round to S. W. and S. S. W., further than we could see.
+It had on its surface numerous ducks, and a large encampment of native
+huts appeared at one end. We encamped by this lagoon, in latitude 27°
+20' S. Again vast plains and downs to the N. E. were seen by Dicky, our
+youngest native, from a tree. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 p.m.,
+65°; at 9, 43°.
+
+<p>1ST MAY.--On leaving the lagoon, passing between its head and the
+river, we were soon enveloped in a thick scrub of Casuarinae, on ground
+broken into gullies falling to the river. I tried to pass by the lower margin
+of this, but gullies in the way obliged me to ascend and seek a passage
+elsewhere. Forcing our way, therefore, through the scrub and out of it,
+we found outside of it, in an open forest, the box and Angophora, and
+could go forward without impediment, first to the N. W., afterwards
+northward, and N. E. At length the woods opened into fine grassy plains,
+bounded on the east by trees belonging to the river berg. There I saw still
+the trees we had so gladly got away from, the Casuarina; also the
+cheering white arms of the Yarra, or blue gum. The prospect before us
+improved greatly; fine plains presented a clear way to the northward,
+with the river apparently coming thence, and even round from the N. W.
+From a tree, Yuranigh descried hills in the N. E. and the plains extending
+before us. I also perceived, from the wide plain, a distant low rise to the
+N. W. We crossed two hollows on these grassy plains, each containing
+deep ponds, and descended towards what seemed a branch of the river;
+we encamped near it, in latitude 27° 15' 4" S. As we approached this
+spot, natives were seen first looking at us, and then running off
+--Yuranigh said he recognized one of them as a countryman of his own.
+I endeavoured to make him cooey to them, or call them, but they made
+off, setting fire to the grass. Any information from natives of these parts
+might have been very useful to us then, and I hoped they would at length
+come to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, p.m.,
+48°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>2D MAY.--There was a decided difference between the river we were
+now upon, as well as the country along its banks, and the large river by
+which we had travelled so far. This was undoubtedly but a small
+tributary, as its direction seen this day showed, being from the westward,
+while its waters, meandering in various narrow channels amongst plains,
+reminded us of some of the finest parts of the south. Which was the
+principal channel, and which to cross, which to travel by, was rather
+difficult to determine. The country was very fine. These water courses
+lay between finely rounded grassy slopes, with a few trees about the
+water's edge, marking their various courses at a distance. A considerable
+breadth of open grassy plain, intervened between this river and the
+woods back from it. At length, sloping stony bergs came near the river's
+bed, but there the smooth naked water-worn clay was the best ground we
+could have for wheels, and we thus hugged each bend of the river,
+passing close to the channel. I hoped thus to find plains on the next
+change of the river's course. And so it turned out for some way, but the
+receding bergs guided me, even when only seen at a considerable
+distance, in shaping my course. Keeping my eye on their yellow slopes, I
+travelled far along a grassy flat which brought me to a lake containing
+water like chrystal, and fringed with white lotus flowers. Its western
+shore consisted of shelving rock. An immense number of ducks floated
+on its eastern extremity. From this lake, following a grassy flat to the N.
+W., we at length reached the river, or rather its bed, seared into numerous
+channels. The lake, and long flat connected with it, appeared to me more
+like the vestiges of a former channel, than as the mere outlet of surplus
+waters; nor did it seem that the water is now supplied from the floods of
+the river. I followed this a few miles further, and then encamped just
+beyond, where much gravel appeared in the banks. While the men were
+erecting the tents, I rode some miles to the westward, and found an open
+iron-bark forest covering it, with much luxuriant grass. This was rather
+peculiar, as compared with any other part passed through. It was also
+undulating; and, from a tree ascended by Yuranigh, it was ascertained we
+were approaching mountains, as he saw one which bore 77°, also a hill to
+the eastward, in which latter direction (or rather in that of 333°), he saw
+also an open country. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at 4 p.m., 62°; at 9
+P. M 57°; mean height above the sea, 694 feet.
+
+<p>3RD MAY.--Natives were heard near our camp during the night, and
+we perceived the smoke of their fires, in the bushes, behind in the
+morning. Yuranigh went up to them, accompanied by one of the party
+bearing a green branch, and he prevailed on three of their tribe to come to
+our tents. One stood amongst the carts and tents, apparently quite
+absorbed in observation. Intense curiosity in these men had evidently
+overcome all their fears of such strangers. They were entirely naked, and
+without any kind of ornament or weapon, offensive or defensive. With
+steady fixed looks, eyes wide open, and serious intelligent countenances,
+what passed in their minds was not disguised, as is usual with savages.
+On the contrary, there was a manly openness of countenance, and a look
+of good sense about them, which would have gained my full confidence,
+could we but have understood each other. They asked for nothing, nor
+did they show any covetousness, although surrounded by articles, the
+smallest of which might have been of use to them. There must be an
+original vein of mind in these aboriginal men of the land. O that
+philosophy or philanthropy could but find it out and work it! Yuranigh
+plied them with all my questions, but to little purpose; for although he
+could understand their language, he complained that they did not answer
+him in it, but repeated, like parrots, whatever he said to them. In the same
+manner, they followed me with a very exact repetition of English words.
+He, however, gathered from them that the lake was called "Turànimga,"
+this river "Cogoon," a hill to the eastward "Toolumbà," etc. They had
+never before seen white men, and behaved as properly as it was possible
+for men in their situation to do. At length we set out on our journey, and
+in mounting my horse, which seemed very much to astonish them, I
+made signs that we were going to the mountains.
+
+<p>Travelling by the river bank was easy, over grassy forest land. The
+deep ponds were tolerably well filled, but the quantity of water was
+small, in comparison with that in the Balonne; which the natives seemed
+to say we had left to the right, and that this was "one of its brothers."
+Malga scrub crowned the bergs of the river, where they bounded one of
+these forest flats forming its margin, and the mere sight of that
+impervious sort of scrub was sufficient to banish all thoughts of making
+straighter cuts to the north-west. Our course, with the river, was,
+however, now rather to the west of north-west; and that this was but a
+tributary to the Balonne, was evident. That river line, as traced by us,
+pursued a tolerably straight direction between the parallels of 29° and
+27°, coming round from nearly north-east to about north. For these last
+three days we had travelled with this minor channel, to the westward of
+north-west; in which direction I had, therefore, good reason to expect
+that we should soon find mountains.
+
+<p>As soon as we arrived at an eligible spot for the camp, I proceeded,
+with Yuranigh, towards a height presenting a rocky face, which I saw
+through the trees, and seemed distant about two miles. From that crest, I
+perceived woody ridges on all sides, but all apparently sloping from the
+south-west; and a misty valley beyond the nearest of them in the northeast,
+like the line of the Balonne. But the most interesting sight to me
+then, was that of blue pics at a great distance to the north-west, the object
+of all my dreams of discovery for years. No white man had before seen
+these. There we might hope to find the DIVISA AQUARUM, still
+undiscovered; the pass to Carpentaria, still unexplored: I called this hill
+Mount First View, and descended, delighted with what I had seen from
+its rocky crest. The sides were covered with Malga scrub. The rock was
+felspathic, apparently allied to those already seen in the Balonne. Lat.
+27° 2' 57" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9 p.m.,
+45°;--with wet bulb, 43°.
+
+<p>4TH MAY.--An Australian morning is always charming,--amid these
+scenes of primaeval nature it seemed exquisitely so. The BARITA? or
+GYMNORHINA, the organ-magpie, was here represented by a much smaller
+bird, whose notes, resembling the softest breathings of a flute, were the
+only sounds that met the ear. What the stillness of even adds to such
+sounds in other climes, is felt more intensely in the stillness of morning
+in this. "The rapture of repose that's there" gratifies every sense; the
+perfume of the shrubs, of those even that have recently been burnt, and
+the tints and tones of the landscape, accord with the soft sounds. The
+light red tints of the ANTHISTIRIA, the brilliant green of the MIMOSA, the
+white stems of the EUCALYPTUS, and the deep grey shadows of early
+morning, still slumbering about the woods, are blended and contrasted in
+the most pleasing harmony. The forms in the soft landscape are equally
+fine, from the wild fantastic tufting of the Eucalyptus, and its delicate
+willow-like ever-drooping leaf, to the prostrate trunks of ancient trees,
+the mighty ruins of the vegetable world. Instead of autumnal tints, there
+is a perpetual blending of the richest hues of autumn with the most
+brilliant verdure of spring; while the sun's welcome rays in a winter
+morning, and the cool breath of the woods in a summer morning, are
+equally grateful concomitants of such scenes. These attach even the
+savage to his woods, and might well reclaim the man of crime from
+thoughts likely to disturb the harmony of human existence.
+
+<p>Following up the little river with more confidence now, since I had
+seen whence it came, I proceeded more directly north-west. Thus I found
+myself on a small creek, or chain of ponds, from the west and southwest,
+so that I crossed it and made for some open ground, between ridges
+clothed with dense Malga scrub. We thus crossed a low ridge, and
+descended towards a fine open country, on which pigeons were
+numerous, and traces of natives. It was also sloping to the northward, and
+I had no doubt that we had passed into a valley which I had observed
+yesterday from Mount First View, and had supposed it contained a larger
+river. In the open ground, I found a small rocky knoll which I named
+Mount Minute. From its summit, I recognised Mount First-Sight, bearing
+128° 30'. We next passed through some scrub, and came to a hollow full
+of Acacia pendula. Following this down we arrived at a chain of ponds,
+and these led to an open grassy valley, in which we found our old friend,
+the river, still pursuing, steadily, a north-west course. Travelling along
+the bank, for a mile or two, we found that these now consisted of fine
+open forest flats; and at length encamped on the margin, after a journey
+of about twelve miles. Near our camp, I saw natives on the opposite
+bank, first standing in mute astonishment, then running away. I held up a
+green bough, but they seemed very wild; and, although occasionally seen
+during the afternoon, none of them would approach us. We found on the
+banks of this river, a purple-flowered CALANDRINIA, previously unknown.[*]
+Lat. 26° 57' 39" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9,
+37°;--with wet bulb, 34°.
+
+<p>[* C. BALONENSIS (Lindl. MS.); foliis angustis obovato-lanceolatis alternis
+oppositisque, racemis secundis multifloris caulibus multo longioribus,
+floribus (conspicuis) polyandris.]
+
+<p>5TH MAY.--The three last nights had been cold, each, in succession,
+colder than the former. This morning the thermometer stood at 19° E.,
+yet the water was not frozen, nor did our natives, sleeping in the open air,
+seem to feel it. Hence, it was obvious that, in a dry atmosphere, extreme
+cold can be more easily borne than in one that is moist. So, also, in the
+opposite extreme of heat and drought, we had been so accustomed to a
+higher temperature than 100° F., that any degree under that felt
+refreshing. Our journey this day by the side of the little river was still
+very straight towards the N. W. We met with rocks at the westerly bends;
+from which side it was also joined by a small tributary, with ponds and
+hollows containing marks of flood, and beds of the POLYGONUM ACRE.
+Still, however, the main channel could be distinguished from these, and
+the open forest flats along its banks became more and more extensive
+and open as we ascended this channel,--leading so directly where we
+wished to go.
+
+<p>Hills were occasionally seen back from it, chiefly covered with scrub,
+but some were grassy and seemed fit for sheep. Others were clothed with
+callitris, and there the woods were open enough to be travelled through. I
+rode to the summit of one and recognized two of the points seen from
+Mount First Sight. At one sharp turn of the river rugged rocks had to be
+removed to make a way for the carts, but this was soon done. Beyond,
+there was a noble reach of water in a rocky bed, traversed by a dyke of
+felspathic rock, which exhibited a tendency to break into irregular
+polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; its strike was E. and
+W. We encamped on open forest land in lat. 26° 54' 16" S. It was only
+during the last two days that I could perceive in the barometer, any
+indication that we were rising to any higher level above the sea than that
+of the great basin, in which we had journeyed so long, and the difference
+was still but trifling, as indicated by not more than six or seven
+millimetres of the Syphon barometer; our actual height above the sea
+being 737 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 p.m., 67°.
+
+<p>6TH MAY.--The banks of the Cogoon became more open, and the
+slopes less abrupt as we advanced. They frequently consisted of a
+mixture of sand, at a height of twenty feet above its bed; where it
+occupied a section of considerable width, as much, perhaps, as 100 yards
+between bank and bank. On these rounded off banks or bergs of forest
+land, Youranigh drew my attention to large, old, waterworn, trunks of
+trees, which he showed me had been deposited there by floods. As they
+were of a growth and size quite disproportioned to other trees there, I
+was convinced that they were the debris of floods; and, consequently,
+that a vast body of water sometimes came down this channel. This native
+was taciturn and observant of such natural circumstances, to a degree that
+made his opinion of value in doubtful cases. Such, for instance, as which
+of two channels, that might come both in our way, might be the main
+one; thus my last resource, when almost "in a fix," was to "tomar el
+parecer," as they say in Spain, of this aboriginal, and he was seldom
+wrong. At length, the cheering expanse of an open country appeared
+before us, and a finely shaped hill, half-covered only, with bushes. On
+reaching an elevated clear part, I saw extensive downs before me. The
+river turned amongst woods to the eastward, and I continued on our route
+to the north, sure of meeting with it again, as some fine forest ridges
+hemmed in the valley to the eastward. Besides the hill already mentioned
+(which I named Mount Inviting), there was a curious red cone some
+miles to the westward, crowned with a bit of rock, on which I longed to
+plant my theodolite. After crossing the plain, we entered an open scrub of
+Acacia pendula which gradually changed to an open forest, within which
+I met with a chain of ponds, and encamped in lat. 26° 46' S. I
+immediately set out, with a man carrying my theodolite, for Mount Red
+Cap, distant from our camp about six miles. This little red cone had a
+very singular appearance, as we approached it from the east. A dark
+tinted scrub of flat-topped trees enveloped its base, on the outside of
+which the light and graceful Acacia pendula also grew on the grassy
+plain. I found the red rock to be the common one of the country, in a
+state of decomposition. It was hollowed out by some burrowing animal,
+whose tracks had opened ways through the thick thorny scrub, enabling
+us to lead our horses to near the top. From the apex, I obtained an
+extensive view of the country then before us, in many parts clear of wood
+to the verge of the horizon, and finely studded with isolated hills of
+picturesque form, and patches of wood. Looking backward, or in the
+direction whence we had come, our valley appeared hemmed in by more
+continuous ridges; and, towards the extremity of them, I could just
+recognise Mount First View, this being one of the distant cones I had
+seen from it. I took as many angles as the descending sun permitted, and
+then retraced our horses' tracks to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+20°; at 9 p.m., 47°. Height above the sea, 747 feet.
+
+<p>7TH MAY.--Pursuing a N. W. course, we crossed a fine tract of open
+forest, then a plain, beyond which we entered a scrub of Acacia pendula,
+in which pigeons and quail were very numerous. Turning northward,
+now anxious again to see the river, on approaching this open country, we
+found what we considered the highest branch of it, in a chain of ponds
+skirting the wood bounding the plains. Halting the party, I continued my
+ride a mile and a half further northward, to the summit of a clear ridge.
+From thence I saw an open country to the northward, with some little
+wood. On my right, or to the eastward, a double topped hill sate in the
+centre of this fine open country, and from the abundance of good
+pasturage around it, I named it Mount Abundance. We continued still to
+follow the now attenuated channel upwards, and found it to come from
+the west, and even south-west, leaving the extreme corner of the open
+downs, and leading us into a scrub. There, it formed two branches, in
+neither of which could we find any water, and had consequently to return
+to the last of its ponds, situated exactly at the close of the open country
+towards the S. W. There, we encamped in latitude 26° 42' 27" S.,
+thankful that we had been enabled by its means to advance thus far, and
+to discover so fine a tract of country as that watered by it. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 48°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>8TH MAY.--This morning Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 21° in my
+tent, a degree of cold I should never have expected to have seen indicated
+from my own sensations, or from the state of the pond, which was not
+frozen, neither was there any hoar frost. The sun rose in splendour;
+pigeons cooed, and birds were as merry as usual in the woods. The
+business of the day was most exciting; I was to ride over the fine open
+country to the westward of Mount Abundance, and there look still for a
+higher branch of the river, or A river; confident that so fine a region could
+not be deficient in water, but more confident from what I had seen of the
+range to which we had approached so near. Riding to the N. N. E. in
+about two hours we came upon the identical river we had so long
+followed up. It was accompanied, as usual, by the Acacia pendula; had
+its rounded bergs; reedy water holes; and an open strip along the left
+bank. Crossing it I rode over towards an elevated part of the open downs,
+in hopes to obtain a sight of what the country was beyond, but I found
+that to be impossible, as it seemed boundless. So, turning, I ascended an
+elevated north-eastern extremity of Mount Abundance, and from it
+beheld the finest country I had ever seen in a primaeval state. A
+champaign region, spotted with wood, stretching as far as human vision,
+or even the telescope, could reach. It was intersected by river lines from
+the north, distinguishable by columns of smoke. A noble mountain mass
+arose in the midst of that fine country, and was so elongated in a S. W.
+and N. E. direction, as to deserve the name of a range.
+
+<p>A three-topped hill appeared far to the north of the above, and to the S.
+E. of the first described, another mass, also isolated, overlooking that
+variegated land of wood and plain. To the S. E. of all these, the peaks of
+a very distant range were just visible. I determined to name the whole
+country Fitzroy Downs, and to identify it, I gave the name of the Grafton
+Range to the fine mass in the midst of it. In hopes of obtaining an
+elevated view over the country to the westward, I endeavoured to ascend
+the northern summit of Mount Abundance, but although the surface to
+near the top was tolerably smooth, and the bush open, I was met there by
+rugged rocks, and a scrub of thorny bushes so formidable as to tear
+leathern overalls, and even my nose. After various attempts, I found I
+was working round a rocky hollow, somewhat resembling a crater,
+although the rock did not appear to be volcanic. The trees and bushes
+there were different from others in the immediate vicinity, and, to me,
+seemed chiefly new. It is, indeed, rather a curious circumstance, but by
+no means uncommon, that the vegetation on such isolated summits in
+Australia, is peculiar and different from that of the country around them.
+Trees of a very droll form chiefly drew my attention here. The trunk
+bulged out in the middle like a barrel, to nearly twice the diameter at the
+ground, or of that at the first springing of the branches above. These were
+small in proportion to their great girth, and the whole tree looked very
+odd. These trees were all so alike in general form that I was convinced
+this was their character, and not a LUSUS NATUROE. [A still more remarkable
+specimen of this tree was found by Mr. Kennedy in the apex of a basaltic
+peak, in the kind of gap of the range through which we passed on the
+15th of May, and of which he made the accompanying drawing.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-11"></a><img alt="" src="trop-11.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The Bottle tree, DELABECHEA</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>These trees grew here only in that almost inaccessible, crater-like
+hollow, which had impeded me in my attempt to reach the summit.[*]
+Leaving the horses, however, I scrambled through the briars and up the
+rocks to the summit, but found it, after all this trouble, too thickly
+covered with scrub to afford me the desired view to the westward, even
+after I had ascended a tree on the edge of the broad and level plateau, so
+thickly covered with bushes. On returning and descending eastward
+towards the open country, I found a much more practicable way down
+than that by which I had ascended. Returning to the valley of the
+Cogoon, I passed between the two summits, and found a good open
+passage to the westward between the brigalow. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+20°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 30°. Height above the sea 1043
+feet.
+
+<p>[* This remarkable plant constitutes a new and very curious genus of
+Sterculiads. It agrees with STERCULIA in the position of the radicle with
+respect to the hilum, but it is, otherwise, a BRACHYCHITON, with which it
+more especially corresponds in the singular condition of the seeds. These
+are placed, six together, in the interior of long-stalked, ovate, mucronate,
+smooth, deep brown follicles, of a tough papery texture, and lined with a
+thin fur of stellate hairs. The seeds themselves are also closely covered
+with starry hairs, which are so entangled that they hold the seeds together
+firmly; these hairs, however, are absent from the upper half of the seed,
+whose thin brittle vascular primine is shining, smooth, and marked with a
+brown nipple, the remains of the foramen. Within the primine lies the
+bony crustaceous secundine, which is quite loose, and seems as if it were
+independent of the primine. Eventually the end of the thin brittle primine
+breaks like an eggshell and the secundine falls out. The seeds
+themselves, remaining attached to each other and to the follicle, resemble
+six deep cells, or may be rather compared to half a dozen brown
+eggshells, placed on the broad end, from which the young have escaped
+through the point.
+
+<p>Sir Thomas Mitchell has named the genus after Sir
+Henry T. De la Beche, as president of a Society which has greatly
+encouraged him in his Australian researches; and in honour of a science
+which has occasionally thrown some light on his dark and difficult path.
+It may be scientifically described as follows:--
+
+<p>DELABECHEA.</p>
+
+<p>CHAR. GEN. CALYX 5-fidus, valvatus. ANTHEROE congestae. STYLI. ...
+STIGMATA. ... FOLLICULI coriaceo-papyracei, 6-spermi, longè stipitati, intus
+stellato-pubescentes. SEMINA albuminosa, albumine bipartibili
+cotyledonibus foliaceis parum adhaerente, pube stellari basi vestita, inter
+se et fundo folliculi cohaerentia; PRIMINÂ laxâ, tenui, fragili, apice
+foramine incrassato notatâ, SECUNDINÂ crustaceâ, demum liberâ chalazâ
+magnâ circulari notatâ. EMBRYONIS radicula hilo contraria.
+
+<p>DELABECHEA RUPESTRIS.
+
+<p>ARBOR grandis, trunco in dolii speciem tumescente. LIGNUM
+album, laxum, mucilagine repletum, vasis porosis (bothrenchymate)
+maximis faciem internam cujusque zonae occupantibus, radiis
+medullaribus tenuibus equidistantibus. FOLIA lineari-oblonga, acuminata,
+integerrima, in petiolum filiformem ipsis duplbreviorem insidentia,
+subtus pallida et quasi vernice quâdam cinereâ obducta. INFLORESCENTIA
+axillaris, trichotoma, tomentosa, foliis brevior. CALYX valvatus, utrinque
+tomentosus.
+
+<p>The wood of the tree has a remarkably loose texture: it is
+soft, and brittle, owing to the presence of an enormous quantity of very
+large tubes of pitted tissue, some of which measure a line and half
+across; they form the whole inner face of each woody zone. When
+boiling water is poured over shavings of this wood a clear jelly,
+resembling tragacanth, is formed and becomes a thick viscid mass;
+iodine stains it brown, but not a trace of starch is indicated in it. No
+doubt the nutritious quality of the tree is owing to the mucilage, which is
+apparently of the same nature as that of the nearly allied Tragacanth tree
+of Sierra Leone (STERCULIA TRAGACANTHA).
+
+<p>It is not a little remarkable that
+the barrel-like form of the trunk should be almost exactly paralleled by
+another Sterculiad, the CHORISIA VENTRICOSA of Nees, called by the
+Brazilian Portuguese PAO BARRIGUDO. It seems, however, that a tendency
+to a short lumpish mode of growth is common among the order, as is
+indicated by the Baobab of Senegal, which is almost as broad as it is
+long, and the great buttress trees, or Silk-Cottons of tropical America.
+--J. L.]
+
+<p>9TH MAY.--The thermometer stood at 19° in my tent this morning, yet
+no ice appeared on the adjacent pool; for this reason, we named that
+branch of the river Frosty Creek. In order to leave a more direct track for
+Mr. Kennedy to follow with the drays, I made the carts return about two
+miles to the spot where we first made these ponds. There I had a trench
+cut across the track to the camp we had quitted, and also buried a letter
+for Mr. Kennedy, in which I instructed him to avoid that detour which
+might have otherwise led him into scrubs. We then prolonged our track
+from the south, northward across the open downs. I travelled in the
+direction of the meridian, and most of our route, this morning, marked a
+due north line. We came, at length, upon a watercourse which I took for
+our river, as the banks were finely rounded, the ponds full of water, and
+the woods quite open. The scenery was parklike and most inviting. The
+watercourse, soon, however, dwindled into a mere chain of ponds, and
+these at last were found to contain no water, when we had completed our
+day's journey. Open downs surrounded us, and fortunately I could still
+distinguish my rocky position of yesterday, where I had noted that the
+general direction of the river channel we had now again left, bore N. W.
+We were still much to the southward of the line so observed,
+apprehending, as I did think then, that some tempting plains might take
+us too far along some western tributary. Riding in search of water, I
+perceived a column of smoke to the northward; and, taking the party in
+that direction, we found, in the first valley we fell in with, a chain of
+ponds, and in one of these water enough for our use, whereupon I gladly
+encamped. This day we discovered a new EUCALYPTUS which casts its bark
+in small angular pieces.[*] Latitude, 26° 33' 34" S. Thermometer, at 4 P.
+M., 74°; at sunset, 63°. Height above the sea, 1299 feet.
+
+<p>[* E. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis glaucis lineari-lanceolatis
+breviter tenuiter petiolatis subfalcatis utrinque acuminatis reticulatovenosis,
+nervis lateralibus marginem prope, racemis paucifloris
+axillaribus, calyce turbinato in pedicellum brevem attenuato.]
+
+<p>10TH MAY.--Continued nearly northwards, over fine open forest land.
+The sprinkling of mountains of peculiar forms here and there, and the
+open country, which showed a bluey distance, were new features in the
+scenery, and most pleasing to us, so long accustomed to travel through a
+level woody country. The visible possibility of overlooking the country
+from any eminence, is refreshing at all times, but to an explorer it is
+every thing; besides he is not half so much in danger of wanting water,
+when in the neighbourhood of mountains: with these sentiments I went
+forward this morning, even although rather despairing of seeing more of
+our friendly river. We crossed two chains of dry ponds, apparently some
+of its highest sources. Still I travelled steadily towards a fine mountain
+before us, over open downs, but with scrubs on either side. Reaching a
+dry bushy hill S. E. of the mountains, about the time we should have
+encamped, I perceived that the country sloped most to the eastern side of
+it, which was rather out of my course; for the sake of finding water more
+readily I got into a water-course falling that way, and followed it down.
+This, opening soon into grassy flats, enabled us to avoid the scrubs. The
+welcome white-trunked Eucalyptus next over-hung the holes of the
+water-course, and the valleys spread into beautiful open plains,
+gracefully fringed with Acacia pendula. Still, the ponds were dry. I
+crossed a bare grassy eminence, and, where several channels met, I saw
+luxuriant white trunks; heard and saw many cockatoos of the same
+colour (PSITTACUS GALERITUS); and found there an abundant pond of water,
+beside which we encamped. On some of the Eucalyptus trees grew a
+beautiful Loranthus, which was new to us; it proved to be one formerly
+discovered by the indefatigable Allan Cunningham, but only now
+described by Sir William Hooker.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 28°; at 4 P.
+M., 76°; at 9, 38°;--with wet bulb, 34°.
+
+<p>[* L. NUTANS (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.) totus incano-glaucescens, foliis
+oblongis ellipticis sublanceolatis obtusis coriaceis obscure trinerviis
+tenui-rubro-marginatis basi in petiolum mediocrem attenuatis, pedunculis
+axillaribus longitudine petiolorum racemosis compositis, floribus ternis
+nutantibus, calycibus globoso-campanulatis ore contracto, petalis
+linearibus.--Two varieties, a narrow-leaved and a broad-leaved, were
+subsequently discovered; that now described was the narrow-leaved form.]
+
+<p>11TH MAY.--I ascended the mountain accompanied by two men with
+axes, and one carrying my theodolite. The summit was covered with
+thick scrub interlaced with vines, but my horse could push his way
+almost any where. I fortunately found a rock near the summit, and, on
+throwing down a few of the trees about it, obtained an extensive view
+over the country to the northward. Open downs surrounded the mountain.
+Beyond these, valleys, also clear of trees, or thinly wooded, fell on one
+side to the S. E., on another side, other valleys fell to the N. W., leaving a
+rather elevated tract between; which appeared to connect this mountain
+with a range just dimly visible, bearing nearly north. The valley
+descending towards the N. W., seemed to me to be the head of a river
+likely to pass through a remarkable gap in a flat range, beyond which the
+view did not extend. To the westward a woody, and rather level country
+appeared, from which I thought I saw ridges, with plains or downs
+between them, descending towards the N. W. river.
+
+<p>Anxious to discover the division of the waters, I carefully levelled my
+theodolite and swept the northern horizon, but found, to my surprise, that
+the country to the westward was lower than the hill on which I stood, and
+that the ridge northward with the gap in it, was lower still, the only
+greater elevation visible being the lofty mass bearing about due north.
+Could this be all the obstruction I was prepared to open a pass through?
+Could the hidden mystery of the division between the northern and
+southern waters be here? Far in the east, a river line was evident from
+columns of smoke, as well as from the termination of various lateral
+ranges, between my position and the great mountain to the northward.
+That was, probably, still the Balonne falling southward. Here I had found
+an interior river that would, at all events, lead north-west, and this I
+resolved to follow. On this mountain there grew, in several spots, the
+remarkable trees I had first seen on Mount Abundance; some of them
+much resembling bottles, but tapering near the root. On descending and
+returning to the camp, which was about five miles from the hill, I found
+eight natives, who had come frankly forward to the party during my
+absence. I was very glad to see them, and gave to an old man, a
+tomahawk to express my sentiments, and welcome the strangers, for little
+could be understood by our native, of their speech, or by them, of his.
+We did, however, make out from them, that the hill I had just returned
+from, was "Bindango;" its lesser brother to the westward of it, Bindyègo;
+and the ponds or creek beside which we were then encamped,
+"Tagàndo;" all very good sonorous names, which I was glad to adopt at
+once in my notes and map. These natives were coloured with iron-ochre,
+and had a few feathers of the white cockatoo, in the black hair of their
+foreheads and beards. These simple decorations gave them a splendid
+holiday appearance, as savages. The trio who had visited us some days
+before, were all thoughtful observation; these were merry as larks, and
+their white teeth, constantly visible, shone whiter than even the
+cockatoo's feathers on their brows and chins. Contrasted with our
+woollen-jacketted, straw-hatted, great-coated race, full of work and care,
+it seemed as if nature was pleased to join in the laugh, at the expense of
+the sons of art. Sun never shone upon a merrier group of mortals than
+these children of nature appeared to be. One amongst them was a fine
+powerful fellow, whose voice sounded so strongly, that it seemed as if
+his very whisper might be heard half a mile off. The old man remained
+by our fire all night; the others who, as I understood, were all his sons,
+had departed about 11 p.m., having left their gins in the vicinity.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 22°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 59°; at 9, 35°.
+
+<p>12TH MAY.--I took a ride in the direction where I hoped to find a river
+flowing towards the interior, according to my observations at Mount
+Bindango. I rode over an open plain, or open forest country, soon found
+the dells marked by water-courses, and, at length, the channel of a river,
+with the Yarra trees. Following this new channel downwards a short
+way, I found the beds of the ponds moist, and seven emus, running from
+one a-head of me, first indicated the situation of a large pond; from
+which three wood-ducks also waddled away as I approached it. This
+water was only fifteen miles from where I had left the party encamped, to
+which I hastened back with the tidings of a discovery that was likely to
+expedite so much our momentous journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°;
+at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 59°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height
+above the sea, 1168 feet.
+
+<p>13TH MAY.--I buried a letter here for Mr. Kennedy. This day the party
+crossed the dividing ground, which I found to be elevated only 1563 feet
+above the sea, and consisting, as already stated, of fine open grassy
+downs, sprinkled with Acacia pendula and other shrubs. One or two
+knolls projected, however, and resembled islands in a sea of grass. I rode
+to one and found it consisted wholly of trap-rock in nodules. This was
+the first trap I had seen during the journey beyond the Barwan, and from
+their aspect I thought that other minor features of the mountains
+Bindango and Bindyègo, which I had not leisure to examine then, also
+consisted of this rock. The little knoll I did visit, was about one hundred
+yards in diameter at its base on the plains, and was covered with trees
+wholly different from those in the adjacent forest, namely, CALLITRIS
+PYRAMIDALIS, EUCALYPTUS (Iron-bark species), etc. We next descended to a
+separate system of drainage, apparently falling to the north-west. Instead
+of following rivers upwards, as we had hitherto been doing, and finding
+them grow less, or taking a tributary for a main channel, we were now to
+follow one downwards, with the prospect of finding it to increase as we
+proceeded. The relief from the constant apprehension of not falling in
+with water was great, as each day's journey was likely to show additional
+tributaries to our new found river, and, of course, to augment the supply.
+The old native at Tagàndo, had pointed much to the north-west,
+frequently repeating the word "MARAN;" whether that was, or what was,
+the name of this river, remained to be ascertained. A sweet breeze from
+the N. W. met us as we descended the slopes, and thus it was that white
+men first passed in that direction, "AL NACIMIENTO DE LA ESPECERIA."
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 43°.
+Height of camp above the sea, 1226 feet.
+
+<p>14TH MAY.--The left bank of the river being rather steep and broken, I
+crossed it, determined to pursue a N. W. course, so long as I found the
+country open, thinking I might easily fall in with the river about the time
+I wished to encamp, believing its course would be towards the gap. We
+passed through some scrub, but chiefly over good forest land. When we
+had travelled on about ten miles, I saw hills nearly clear of wood before
+me, and halted the party while I went forward to look at the country in
+that direction. I soon overlooked a deep dell, full of the richest grass, and
+wooded like a park. The fall of the enclosing ranges showed me,
+however, that our river might be further to the westward than I had
+thought at all likely. On returning to the party, I found they had been
+called to by natives in our rear, one of whom was formally seated in
+advance, prepared for a ceremonious interview; and I accordingly went
+forward to him with the green bough, and accompanied by Yuranigh. We
+found him in a profuse perspiration about the chest, (from terror, which
+was not, however, obvious in his manner,) and that he had nothing at all
+to say to us after all; indeed his language was wholly unintelligible to my
+native, who, moreover, apprised me that he was the big bully from the
+tribe at our former encampment, then distant some twenty-five miles. He
+handled my hat, asked for my watch, my compass, and was about to
+examine my pockets, when Yuranigh desired him to desist, in a tone that
+convinced him we were not quite at his mercy. I thought he said that the
+river was called the "Amby," and something about the "Culgoa!" It then,
+for the first time, occurred to me, from a gesture of this man's arm, that
+this might be only a tributary to the Culgoa after all. We bade him adieu
+as civilly as we could, but he hung upon our rear for a mile or two, and I
+perceived that he had brought with him his whole tribe after us. Nothing
+more unfortunate can befall an explorer, than to be followed by a wild
+tribe like this, as I had experienced in former journies. The gift of the
+tomahawk had done all this mischief, and how it would end, was a
+thought which caused me some anxiety. The tall savage had set his heart
+upon our goods and chattels, and it was not in human nature for him to
+desist from his aggressive purpose, if we could not, in some way,
+contrive to cheek the pursuit. I knew instinctively, by the first sound of a
+loud whisper of his at "Tagando" at night, near our tents, that there was
+no music in this man's soul. We soon arrived at a ridge of ferruginous
+sandstone, whereof the strike tended S. S. W. and the dip was to the
+eastward. A gradual ascent brought us to the verge of a low ridge, which
+was steep towards the N. W., and a rocky knoll (of red sand-stone)
+afforded me a view of the gap I had seen from Bindango, and hills about
+it. I perceived, with great disappointment, that the structure of the
+country was not according to my anticipations. The river course seemed
+marked out by plains far to the south-west, and all the valleys and
+watercourses fell FROM the gap in that direction, and not TO the gap. Still
+the country about that opening looked very inviting. Picturesque hills,
+clothed with grass and open forest, especially on their summits, and dells
+between them, yellow or red with rich ripe grass, indicated a spot of the
+finest description; and through the gap lay my destined line of route, to
+the north-west, river or no river. Just then, however, we wanted water,
+but on following a little channel about a mile downwards, we found in it
+a spacious pond, and encamped. I rode three miles further down this
+channel, which there turned SOUTHWARD, so that I despaired of my newly
+discovered river Amby being of any further utility now; but I was almost
+convinced that it would have brought me into this very country, had I
+come round by Fort Bourke. Latitude 26° 17' 8" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 35°; at 4 p.m., 80°; at 7 p.m., 71°; at 9, 48°. Height above the
+sea, 1150 feet.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-12"></a><img alt="" src="trop-12.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The black awaiting the white</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>15TH MAY.--My servant Brown drew my attention, early this morning,
+to natives occasionally peeping at us from a hill overlooking our camp.
+Some time after, I perceived a figure resembling a large black quadruped,
+with head erect like a lion, prowling about, amongst the long grass beside
+my after breakfast tree. Taking my glass, I recognized the identical big
+savage of yesterday.
+
+<p>Hamlet might here have exclaimed--</p>
+
+<blockquote>"What a piece of work is man!<br>
+... ..... how infinite in faculties!<br>
+In form and action how like a <i>quadruped</i>!<br>
+In apprehension, how like a <i>devil</i>!"</blockquote>
+
+<p>There the fate of Mr. Darke[*] doubtless awaited me; and this was to be
+the result of my spontaneous gift of a tomahawk to the old man! This
+savage had evidently been watching us all night, and his party were
+concealed behind the hill. Our only remaining little dog, Procyon, had
+been very restless during the night, when these people were, probably,
+drinking at the pond near us. My rifle (fortunately I now think) was in
+the case, but I fired a carbine so that the fellow should hear the bullet
+whistle near him into the long grass; and at the same time shouted,
+expressive of my disgust at his conduct, making the men join in a loud
+JEERING cheer as he galloped off, still on all-fours, towards his camp. My
+horse was standing saddled for a ride of reconnoissance in a different
+direction, and, as it was not desirable that these people should know
+either where I went, or even that I was absent, I took this opportunity of
+frightening them away from our rear, and covering my ride the other
+way. With this intention, I immediately mounted, rode first to the tree,
+with my rifle in hand, and, accompanied by one of the men and
+Yuranigh, both mounted, I next examined their camp behind the hill,
+whence I found that a great number had just retired, leaving even their
+opossums still roasting on the fire;--they having, in a very brief
+interval, by rapid strides, retired to a considerable distance, where I heard
+their shouts in the woods, calling their gins together for a precipitate
+retreat--aware that we were now justly offended. I then set out, passing
+behind some hills on the opposite side of our camp, and proceeded with
+the business of the day, through woods in an opposite direction. I found a
+low flat-topped range, extending nearly W. N. W., and consisting of
+black ferruginous sandstone. It was broad and of peculiar structure, so
+that it might well have been considered a dividing feature. Parallel to it
+on the south, a line of pointed hills of trap or basalt, extended so as to
+give birth, in the valley intervening, to the watercourse by which we
+were encamped. On one of these Mr. Kennedy afterwards found the
+Bottle tree, represented at page 154. I at length reached the gap in this
+range, and in it discovered a most favourable and curious opening to the
+country westward. Passing, then, into that region, I eagerly sought a
+watercourse, soon found one, and followed it down to Yarra trees and
+dry ponds; its first direction having been, as usually remarked in the
+commencement of various other channels, to the N. W. Following this
+downwards, I found the valley to improve, and two retreating emus drew
+our attention to a particular spot, where we found water, at length, in a
+pond. But the course of this little river had come round to S. W., and the
+ridges enclosing its tributaries from the eastward, being apparently in the
+same direction, I was still rather at a loss, but determined to bring
+forward my little party to this pond, and then to reconnoitre the country
+beyond. The XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA was just coming into flower, and the
+country seemed to contain much good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+38°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 43°.
+
+<p>[* This gentleman was killed by natives when obeying the calls of nature
+behind a tree.]
+
+<p>16TH MAY.--We pursued a tolerably straight and level route with the
+carts, from the camp to the Pass. The trap hills appearing successively on
+the right hand, rendered the scenery more than ordinarily picturesque,
+while the probable future utility of this pass, gave them still more
+importance in my estimation. We found a more direct route than along
+the creek, to my pond of yesterday, where we encamped, thankful to find
+water at such a convenient distance, during such a dry season. Lat. 26°
+15' 24" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 49°. Height
+above the sea, of the Pass, 1458 feet;--of this camp, 1256 feet.
+
+<p>17TH MAY.--Another reconnoissance seemed indispensable, before I
+could move the carts. Taking the direction of an opening in the sandstone
+ranges before us, I found that our little creek turned (as I hoped it would),
+to the W. and N. W., having on all sides broken ranges enveloping
+valleys of good open forest land. Some of the tops of these ranges were
+clear of timber, and bore a heavy crop of grass. I ascended one, and
+found it was capped with trap rock in amygdaloidal nodules. This height
+afforded me an extensive view northward, where the country appeared to
+be chiefly flat and thinly wooded. A low range of hills broke the horizon,
+and presented some favourable points, and I thought I could trace the
+course of our little river, through an extensive intervening woody flat. I
+descended from the hill, and followed the little river down, but could find
+no more water in its ponds. There were the Yarra trees, and fine grassy
+flats on its banks; and I came to a fine looking piece of rising ground, on
+the right bank, where the grass was on fire. We sought the inhabitants of
+the woods, but could discover none. I now found our creek turning
+towards the south, and that its channel disappeared in a spacious open
+flat. While thus perplexed, and under an apprehension that our further
+progress northward in such a season would be found impossible, I
+perceived a dense line of trees, skirting a grassy flat, and rode towards it,
+observing, that any where else I should have said we were approaching a
+large river. I next perceived steep sloping earthy banks; then, below
+these, a deep section of rock, and at length, dark green reeds, and the
+blue surface of extensive reaches of water. I had left my party at a pond
+that could not have lasted long,--here I saw at once secure, a firm
+footing thus far into the interior. Whence the river came, or whither it
+went, was of less importance; thus far we had water. The river was fully
+as large as the Darling, and I very soon saw that its course was from N.
+to S.; but in that case, we could, by following it upwards, penetrate far on
+our way into the interior, and at its sources probably fall in with other
+streams, flowing where we wished to go. I followed the course
+downwards about two miles, and passed through native camps just
+deserted, the water vessels and other gear of the natives having been left
+suspended on trees near their fires. I found that the river turned sharp
+under the rocky extremities of sandstone spurs from the S., and that its
+final course was an enigma not to be solved without much more research.
+I returned to my camp, glad that I could take the party forward to a
+permanent supply of water. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 78°;
+at 4 p.m. 75°; at 9, 49°.
+
+<p>18TH MAY.--Leaving a buried letter for Mr. Kennedy we proceeded to
+trace, with our cart-wheels, the best route I could find for the heavy drays
+coming forward with him. The soil was sandy, but in other respects the
+country was good: consisting chiefly of open forest, and being well
+covered with grass. Another gap enabled me to pass very directly on to
+the newly-discovered river, and it seemed that this, and the other gap
+behind it, were almost the only openings in the ranges from which we
+had descended. Both led in the direction of our route, and the pond we
+had just left was ascertained to be the only one in the little channel. I
+sought a good position for a depôt camp on the newly-discovered river,
+and found one extremely favourable, on a curve concave to the N. W.,
+overlooking, from a high bank, a dry ford, on a smooth rocky bed; and
+having also access to a reach of water, where the bottom was hard and
+firm. We approached this position with our carts, in the midst of smoke
+and flame; the natives having availed themselves of a hot wind to burn as
+much as they could of the old grass, and a prickly weed which, being
+removed, would admit the growth of a green crop, on which the
+kangaroos come to feed, and are then more easily got at. Latitude of this
+camp, 26° 12' 47" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at 4 p.m., 78°; at 9,
+57°.
+
+<p>19TH MAY.--I could now venture to halt a day without any
+apprehensions about leaving sufficient water for the party who were
+following us; and I had recently obtained many angles I wished to put
+together, in order to learn the character of the country, which required
+much study. That I should have overlooked an extensive country, without
+perceiving any indication of a large river flowing through it, almost at
+my feet, seemed a singular circumstance, and I was still as little aware of
+its ultimate course. I found on laying down my work on paper, that the
+chief elevations ran, in a continuous line, nearly due north from Mount
+Red Cap, Bindango, and Bindyègo, to the high ranges nearer the coast.
+That the nascent stream on the western side of Bindango (the Amby),
+and flowing first N. W., turned towards the S. W. within a range of
+basaltic rock, which was a branch from the main stem between Bindango
+and the northern range. Thus, upon the whole, this seemed but one side,
+and that the south-eastern, of the basin of the river we had discovered.
+Where was the other? The marks of flood were not high. The waters
+were full of fish, but they would not take the bait. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 65°.
+
+<p>20TH MAY.--The sky was wholly overcast, and drizzling rain afforded
+us some grounds for hoping that the great impediment to our exploration
+during this dry season, was at an end. The temperature underwent a
+sudden change, and this day was the coldest as yet experienced during
+the journey; the thermometer at noon being only 48°. F. Yuranigh
+contrived to catch three fishes, of a kind wholly different from those of
+the rivers in the south; leaving it doubtful, again, whether this river could
+belong to the system of the Barwan. Thermometer, at sunrise, 53°; at
+noon, 48°; at 4 p.m., 45°; at 9, 45°.
+
+<p>21ST MAY.--The morning being clear, frosty, and serene, induced me
+to ride towards an elevated point, about thirteen miles to the north-west,
+in hopes of obtaining a view of more distant mountains. Crossing the
+river near our camp I met with no obstruction, but found open forests,
+and a good grassy country throughout; the soil being, however, rather too
+loose and sandy, for the easy passage of wheel carriages. I crossed three
+channels of water-courses all dry, but evidently receptacles of water in
+ordinary seasons. They now contained a most luxuriant crop of oat-grass
+(Anthistiria). The hill was rocky and open on the summit, the chief trees
+being very remarkable; especially a species of FICUS, of a unique kind,
+but not in fruit, closely resembling the English ash; but growing wholly
+on rock. Bottle trees (DELABECHEA) grew also in a romantic nook, such as
+they seem to delight in, in the neighbourhood of minor shrubs, equally
+strange. The rock consisted of a sandstone with vegetable impressions,
+such as I had never seen on the sandstone of the ranges. From this
+summit, the crests of very distant ranges appeared to the northward; the
+highest bearing nearly north, by compass, and apparently distant 70 or 80
+miles. The course of the river, or at least of a river, judging by a line of
+smoke, came from the north-westward, between that mountain, and
+others to the westward of it. More to the right, or eastward, the horizon
+presented flat-topped ranges; increasing in elevation as they receded
+from that side of the country whence we had come. That sort of level
+horizon seemed always to bound our view to the southward, the little gap
+was the only relieving blue break in the whole of that side. The eye
+ranged over a vast extent of country, however, at its base, extending
+eastward, where open plains or downs shone bright in the remote
+distance; in which direction, much smoke arose from fires of the natives.
+I returned from the hill but little wiser than I went, except that I had
+observed the strata dipping southward, and that we might, therefore, still
+look for their synclinal line to the northward; and beyond that, for the
+heads of other rivers. These hills, overlooking the valley of the river,
+resembled rocky bergs, at a distance of ten or twelve miles west of it.
+They, however, partly formed a small range, and belonged to an
+extensive tract of sandstone country; which, on the south, was broken
+into gullies, falling towards the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at
+noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>22D MAY.--This morning, the thermometer in my tent stood at 20°;
+and in the open air, at 12°. The river was frozen, and the grass was white
+with hoar-frost. The soil appearing so sandy in the country before us, I
+resolved to form a depôt with our drays and heavy equipment here, and
+to await their arrival before I proceeded further with the carts. The spot
+was eligible in every respect; and in awaiting the arrival of Mr. Kennedy
+with the drays, I could have time to investigate more extensively the
+character of the surrounding country. I was, indeed, rather apprehensive
+that the drays could not reach without difficulty even this point; and I
+was resolved, on their arrival, to make some arrangement for continuing
+the journey, without dragging them any further through the heavy sand.
+It was most irksome, during the finest of weather, thus to be obliged to
+remain comparatively inactive, in the middle of such a journey, when
+horses and light carts might have enabled me to have pursued it to a
+conclusion, without such delays. Thermometer, at noon, 54°; at 4 p.m.,
+55°; at 9, 27°.
+
+<p>23D MAY.--The river seemed to cut its way through rocky ranges, and
+to receive many tributaries; had, in some places, bergs, and margins of
+ancient gravel and sedimentary strata; in others, rocky escarps of great
+height, presented sections of rocks through which it passed. Its further
+course downwards, seemed accessible for some way from this camp;
+and, in awaiting the arrival of the drays, I resolved to explore it. With
+this view, I this day proceeded westward to head the gullies falling to it
+from the other bank, from the sandstone country already mentioned. I
+ascended by an extremity of the hill, to the rocky crest without difficulty,
+or much deviation from my intended course. On reaching the western
+side of the rough scrubby table of the range, I found the descent gradual,
+through an open forest: traversed two flats, having in them the Yarra
+gums, but no water-course, the surface very sandy. Here grew the ACACIA
+CONFERTA, a small shrub just coming into flower; the XANTHORRHOEA
+MIMOSA (with rough bark), yellow gum, black-butted gum, iron-bark,
+and stringy bark. The woods astonished my native companion Yuranigh;
+who remarked that they were trees belonging to the sea coast at Sydney.
+But deep rocky ravines prevented me from exploring the country, in the
+direction in which I should have expected to find the river. At length, we
+approached a valley, in which was a deep channel with rocky banks; but
+quite dry, and very sandy. It ran to the southward; in which direction I
+turned with it, to follow it to its junction with the main river; but it
+pursued a very tortuous course, and our time did not admit of my going
+far enough that day, and I returned to the camp, resolved to extend this
+interesting search on a greater scale subsequently. I had seen, from the
+furthest point I reached, that the same table land to the southward,
+extended west; and it therefore appeared to me probable that the river
+would be found at its base. In the evening we heard, at a short distance
+from our camp, the songs of females or children; as if the overflowing of
+their animal spirits. I had seen their smoke in a part of the range I passed
+this day, to which I feared they had fled on our approach, hearing our
+guns, and in terror of strangers. I was, therefore, glad to find that they
+had no longer any dread of us, and had returned to THEIR home, the river
+bank. These people had no clothing,--the mercury stood at 19° and 20°
+F.; the means of subsistence open to them, had been scarcely enough to
+have kept white men alive, even with the aid of their guns. Yet, under
+such circumstances, and with such strange visitors so close to them, these
+human beings were so contented and happy, that the overflowings of
+their hearts were poured forth in song! Such is human nature in a wild
+state. Their happiness was not such as we could envy; on the contrary, I
+was so solicitous that we should not disturb it, that, much as I wished to
+learn the original name of this interior river, and something about its
+course, I forbade any of the party from taking any notice of these, its
+original inhabitants. Our last intercourse with the natives, had also taught
+me to bear ever in mind aesop's fable of the camel. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 12°; at noon, 52°; at 4 p.m., 56°; at 9, 32°.
+
+<p>24TH MAY.--I proceeded, with two men bearing axes, to a hill about
+two miles S. W. of our camp, one of the extremities of the range already
+mentioned, (which I call River Head Range). We passed, at no great
+distance from our camp, those natives whose song we had heard last
+evening, but without taking any notice of them, except by slightly
+waving my hand. One tall female stooped amongst the long grass, and
+several others, male and female, endeavoured to hide themselves in a
+similar manner, as they beheld, probably for the first time, a white man
+on horseback, followed by others bearing a saw and axes. On the
+summit, grew the Malga tree; which is an acacia of such very hard wood,
+that I was obliged to be content to cut off the top branches only of a tree
+on the summit I had endeavoured to cut down, and to erect a sort of
+platform on the remainder, whence I took my angles. Up the river, there
+appeared some open plains, and a level horizon, in the direction of its
+apparent course. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m.,
+67°; and at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>25TH MAY.--Protracting the observed angles I endeavoured to fix, if
+possible, some prominent points, whereby I might obtain some
+knowledge of the structure of the surrounding country. The result of my
+work was a conviction that the course of the river was parallel to the
+projecting extremities of the low range beyond it (River Head Range),
+and that its basin had extensive ramifications, back amongst the
+sandstone cliffs on this side. But the course downwards still remained a
+question, which diminished in its importance, as I discovered the upper
+course to come from where it was my wish to go. I resolved,
+nevertheless, while thus awaiting the arrival of the drays, to extend my
+ride of the 23RD MAY, and ascertain whether it could turn westward under
+the southern cliffs, the only direction in which it was likely to be
+available to us, downwards, at this time. Thermometer, at sunrise, 17°; at
+noon, 70°; at 4 p.m. 68°; and at 9, 38°.
+
+<p>26TH MAY.--Taking with me two men and Yuranigh, mounted, I
+retraced my former track to the westward, and on proceeding beyond the
+dry river bed, where I had previously been, I entered amongst sandstone
+gullies, where one grassy flat extended nearly in the direction I wished to
+pursue; and this brought me to a sort of table-land, covered with an open
+forest of iron-bark (with the common leaf). The rock consisted here of
+the same felspathic sort characterising most of the hills of the Barwan
+basin; the soil sterile, bearing, in lieu of the ordinary grass, the stiff, hard
+leaved, glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS. But this was better than scrub, and,
+further on, I perceived through a forest on the western slopes, the blue
+distance and yellow plains of an open country. As plains usually
+accompany rivers, I believed I was approaching the river I was in search
+of. We crossed a deep watercourse falling to the S.E.b.S., and entered on
+a noble flat of firm rich soil, whereon grew luxuriantly, the ACACIA
+PENDULA (not previously seen by us in that region), and the two best kinds
+of grass, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. Then we came to a good
+pond of water, with recent footmarks of natives, and, at about a mile
+beyond, we reached the open downs. They extended eastward as far as
+we could see between the range on the S., under which I had expected to
+find the river, and the rocky country over which we had come.
+Westward, the downs were bounded by several very picturesque isolated
+conical hills,--the southern sandy ranges on the S., still continuing
+westward like a limit to all this interior open country. Yet through that
+barrier the river had found a course, and instead of its overlooking the
+river, I found that the ground rose towards it, and I hastened four or five
+miles further westward, in hopes still to see it beyond the open downs,
+but I saw nothing like it. Kangaroos showed their heads occasionally
+amid the long grass: the air was all astir with pigeons, and traces of
+native inhabitants were numerous. As the sun was then near setting, we
+hastened back to the pond, and lay down beside it for the night, which
+happened to be a mild one. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 72°; at
+4 p.m., 71°; at 9, 44°.
+
+<p>27TH MAY.--We rode nearly westward towards a conical hill, which I
+had seen on the evening before, and named Mount Lonsdale. This peak
+appeared to me then to promise an extensive view to the W. and S.W.,
+and in that expectation I was not disappointed. I also fortunately
+recognised two of my fixed points, at distances of thirty-two and fortytwo
+miles respectively, besides an elevated extremity of the continuous
+range on the S., which I had previously intersected, and here determined
+to be only five miles off, bearing about S.E.b.S. I could now see not only
+westward, but to the southward of S.W., for nearly twenty miles over a
+long flat, containing indeed, a line of ACACIA PENDULA scrub, such as
+accompanies lines of water drainage, but no river. All the country in
+sight more to the northward seemed to fall that way, or southward, and
+although it seemed possible that a cross line of valley and blue mist at the
+far extremity of the flat might be the river, it was much more probable,
+from the general slope of the country, that it was only another tributary
+coming from the north.[*] Such was Yuranigh's opinion too, who alone
+stood on that peak with me, and who there reminded me of the fate of the
+rivers Macquarie and Narran, and maintained that rivers were not to be
+found every where. "Where then is our river, Mr. Yuranigh?" "Bel me
+know," was the reply. I could soon have found this out, however, had it
+been an object for our journey northward. It was enough to know then
+that it did not turn into that interior country, which was open, and looked
+much lower, and how much further the fine valley extended beyond the
+twenty miles, an adjacent woody hill prevented me from seeing. The land
+around me was fair to look on; nothing could be finer than the forms of
+the hills--half clear of wood, the disposition of open grassy downs and
+vales--or the beauty of the woods. Water was not wanting, at least
+there seemed to be enough for the present inhabitants, and to an admirer
+of nature there was all that could be desired. Deeply impressed with its
+sublime and solitary beauty, I sketched the scene, and descended from
+that hill, resolved to follow the river upwards, as more favourable, in that
+direction, to the chief object of my mission. I named the hill overlooking
+that lonely dale, Mount Lonsdale, in honour of my valuable geological
+friend. We reached the dépot camp in the evening, and found all well,
+only that a very tall and powerful native had been reconnoitring our
+position during the day, from various trees commanding a view of it;
+probably only from curiosity. These visits, however, always happened to
+be made, as it would appear, when some portion of the party was absent,
+as on this occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 79°; at 4
+p.m., 68°; at 9, 59°; with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+<p>[* Probably the Nive. See <i>infra</i>.]
+
+<p>
+28TH AND 29TH MAY.--My ride westward had enabled me to intersect
+more points to the northward; but this was certainly the most intricate
+country I had ever either to survey or explore; for neither by laying down
+points on a map, nor by overlooking it from high summits, could I gain a
+satisfactory knowledge of its structure. Upon the whole, however, I was
+convinced that the downward course of the river, above our depôt camp,
+was in a favourable direction for the continuation of our journey. The
+arrival of the drays and the rest of the party was now an important
+desideratum; for I had resolved to establish them in a dephere, and
+continue the journey with a smaller party and the horses; the sandy soil
+beyond the river, appearing almost impassable for the absurdly heavy
+drays, with which the party had been equipped. They had now had nearly
+time sufficient to come thus far, making due allowance for sand and
+other obstructions. In the mean while I determined to extend my
+reconnoissance northward from a commanding height, distant fourteen
+miles, and bearing 27½° E. of N. from my camp. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 47°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 79°: at 9, 65°.
+
+<p>30TH MAY.--I proceeded, accordingly, to the hill, over a tract of
+excellent open forest land, which extended to its base. The summit
+consisted of trap-rock in nodules, and, towards the highest point, was
+much broken. On the most elevated part of the summit, grew one of
+those remarkable trees, first seen by me on Mount Abundance. I had
+since seen them in various solitary singular situations; two on the Hogs'-
+back crest of Bindango; two or three near the summit of various other
+heights. The girth of this was thirty feet at its greatest circumference, and
+only sixteen at the ground. There was only one companion of the same
+kind, a very young one, beside this; which in locality, form, and quality,
+seems to be as remarkable a tree, amongst trees in general, as the
+kangaroo is remarkable amongst other animals. Of its quality, much, I
+am sure, remains to be said, when it becomes better known; the wood
+being so light, moist, and full of gum, that a man, having a knife or
+tomahawk, might live by the side of one without other food or water; as
+if nature in pity for the most distressed of mortals, hiding in solitary
+places, had planted even there this tree of Abundance. The wood must
+contain a great portion of mucilage, for, on chewing it, it seems to
+contain as much nutritious matter, as fibre. The pods contain a great
+number of seeds which are eaten by the natives, and also by many birds;
+and, from the circumstance of my having found one pod half-eaten by a
+bird on a rock, the very apex of a lofty summit, the solitary locality of
+this tree may, perhaps, be considered at least partly owing to its seeds
+being the favourite food of some birds inhabiting such places, each seed
+probably requiring to be picked out of the thick shell, in order that it may
+grow.[*] The view the hill afforded me was most gratifying and
+satisfactory. I saw again Mounts Bindango, Bindyego and Abundance, to
+the southward; the cone I had lately visited in the west, (Mount
+Lonsdale): the course of the river downwards, marked by open plains in
+the S. W.; and, an extensive rather level country lay to the northward,
+beyond which, at great distances, the summits of lofty mountains were
+just visible. Through the wide champagne country intervening, the river's
+course seemed marked by a line of smoke; a hot wind was then blowing,
+and the natives are in the habit of burning off the old grass on such
+occasions. The river seemed to come from the mountains, nearly from
+the N.N.W.; so that the prospect of finding water in that direction, or
+towards these mountains, was all I could desire. Here I intersected
+various lofty distant summits seen on the 21st instant, and could thus
+connect the whole trigonometrically with back angles to Bindango,
+Mount Abundance, etc. In the eastward, a range of tabular masses, some
+almost clear of wood, extended apparently to the coast ranges; and
+seemed to be also connected with those stretching towards Bindango,
+and separating the basin of the upper Balonne from this interior country.
+A hill similar to that on which I stood, but of less height, lay on the
+interior side of it, having a remarkable conic summit clear of bushes. The
+valley at the base of these two hills contained a fine crop of ANTHISTIRIA;
+and there was also a chain of ponds, where natives had been encamped
+not long before, but in which no water then remained.
+
+<p>[* A new genus, since named <i>Delabechea</i>.]
+
+<p>On returning to the camp in the evening, I learnt that soon after I left it
+in the morning, two natives came boldly up, painted white, bearing, each,
+several spears and four or five bommerengs. They were followed by two
+females bearing loads of spears. The men were got immediately under
+arms, forming a line before the tents, and Corporal Graham beckoned to
+the natives to halt. They pointed after me, and by very plain gestures
+motioned to the party to follow me, or to begone. Finding the men before
+the tents made the same signs to them, and stood firm, the principal
+speaker edged off towards a man at a distance, in charge of the horses.
+Graham got between, so as to cover the man and the horses, when they
+advanced more boldly upon him, quivering their poised spears at him, at
+a distance of only ten or twelve paces. At length the foremost man turned
+round, and by slapping his posteriors, gave him to understand by that
+vulgar gesture, his most contemptuous defiance: this induced the old
+soldier to discharge his carbine over the head of the savage, who first
+sprung some feet into the air, and then ran off with all the others. Soon
+after, the same native was seen creeping up the steep bank, so as to
+approach the camp under the cover of some large trees, the rest
+following, and he was again met by our party. He then seemed to recite
+with great volubility a description of the surrounding territory, as he
+continually pointed in the course of his harangue to various localities,
+and in this description he was prompted by the female behind, who also,
+by rapid utterance and motions of the arm, seemed to recite a territorial
+description. Finding, however, that his speech made no impression on the
+white strangers, and that they still beckoned them to depart; he stuck a
+spear into the ground, and, by gestures, seemed to propose that, on the
+one side, the ground should be occupied by the strangers, and on the
+other side, by them. Graham apparently assenting to this, they seemed
+more satisfied and departed. There were two deep reaches; one above,
+the other below, our camp. The upper one was deepest, largest, and more
+remote from our party, and most within reach of the natives. I gave strict
+orders that no man should go there; nor that the cattle should be allowed
+to feed there; that it should, in fact, be left wholly to the natives; that no
+ducks should be shot, that no men should fish there. Nothing could be
+more reasonable than the proposal of this native, nor more courageous
+than his appearance before our more numerous party, with his spears and
+open defiance; and I was determined to take every precaution to avoid a
+collision with his small tribe, and prevent, during our probably long
+residence here, our people from doing them any harm. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 22°; at noon, 60°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 31°.
+
+<p>1ST JUNE.--The sound of a distant shot about noon, which proceeded
+from the Doctor firing at a bird, gave us the first notice of the approach
+of the other party. Soon after, Mr. Kennedy came in, measuring the line;
+and, subsequently, the drays, and the whole of the men in good health.
+The cattle had got refreshed without delaying me, and I could now again
+proceed with a good supply of stores, leaving them again in depôt here.
+Mr. Kennedy had examined the river, about which I had written to him,
+for twelve miles up, and found that it was a separate river, coming from
+the N.W., and that in all its bed no water could be found. The tribe of
+Tagando had been troublesome to him, as I feared they would, after their
+attempt upon us. The following account of their visit to Mr. Kennedy is
+from his own notes:--"At 1 p.m., an old native, accompanied by five
+younger men, approached the camp, each carrying a green bough, and
+when within forty yards, they sat down in a line, the old man (probably
+their chief) taking up his position about four yards in advance of the rest.
+Sir Thomas Mitchell having mentioned, in a communication I received
+here, that the natives had been friendly to him, I was anxious to preserve
+that good feeling, but at the same time to keep them at a distance,
+according to my instructions. I therefore went up to them with a green
+bough, and endeavoured by signs to make them leave:--finding that of
+no avail, I presented the chief with an old hat, and gave to each a piece of
+bread. After they had eaten it, I raised the old man with my right hand,
+and taking another in my left, I led them away in the direction whence
+they had come, broke off a green branch, gave a portion to each, and bid
+them farewell. As the others still remained in <i>statu quo</i>, I went through
+the same ceremony with them until they were all on their path
+homewards. Having heard nothing more of them for some time, I
+flattered myself that I had succeeded in giving them a friendly hint that
+we did not wish them beside us; but I soon discovered my mistake, for at
+4 p.m. a large number of natives, accompanied by two or three gins and
+children, came boldly up and encamped within a few yards of the tents,
+and two hundred more were reported to me by Mortimer as being at a
+short distance in their rear. I gave strict orders that no man should go
+near them, and I mustered the party myself at 8 p.m. Shortly afterwards,
+three or four natives came down to our fires, and on the men saying that
+they would not be made to leave, I put my hand upon their shoulders, and
+shewed them their own camp. One tall young native in particular,
+wearing an opossum cloak, exhibited a strong inclination to resist. I
+continued to watch their movements until half-past eleven, p.m. up to
+which time they were talking very earnestly, continually repeating the
+words "white fellow." I had not retired to my tent five minutes when I
+heard Baldock (one of the two men on watch) several times desire the
+natives to go back, who, as it appeared, would insist on coming forward
+to our fires. Serjeant Niblet then called me, saying he thought "all was
+not right," that the natives refused to keep away, and that he had seen the
+fire sticks of others approaching from several directions. On turning out,
+I found them making a line of fires within twenty-five yards or less of
+our tents, and the grass on fire, the old man urging them on in their
+mischievous work. I called to them in the language of some of the
+aborigines, to go away quickly, using the words "Yau-a-ca-burri!" but
+seeing that they still drew nearer with their fires, to the imminent danger
+of the camp, I desired the men, who by this time had got ready with their
+arms, to charge them with a shout, but not to fire until they received
+orders. We succeeded in making them run; when, to add to their alarm,
+one or two shots were fired in the air. In their haste, they left the old hat I
+had given them, an iron tomahawk, and a few other implements, behind
+them, all of which I caused to be left untouched, in order to show them
+that we had only objected to their intrusion. All being quiet, and the
+cattle brought close to the camp, I added a third man to the morning
+watch, and no more was heard of the natives." This was a specimen of
+the treacherous nature of their mode of warfare, and very characteristic
+of the aborigines, but by no means so creditable to them, as the conduct
+of our neighbours at this camp, where the arrival of the other party was
+likely to convince them still more, that they could not induce us to quit
+that position, until we thought proper to do so. I had instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to continue the numbering of the camps; but as the drays could
+not keep pace with mine, only some of my camps have been so
+numbered, the others marked being those where his party had passed the
+night. This depôt camp was, thus, No. XXIX, and the numbers of such
+others of mine as have been marked between this and VIII., shall be
+added to this journal, and the whole marked on the map. A new species
+of CALLITRIS appeared among the trees, the ACACIA STENOPHYLLA, and the
+large leaved variety of ACACIA DECORA, further removed than usual from
+the common form, and approaching, in some respects, to A. RUBIDA.
+Among the bushes was the beautiful little A. CONFERTA, remarkable for its
+little heath-like leaves, and among the grasses was remarked an
+abundance of a new annual SPOROBOLUS with extremely minute flowers.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>[* S. PALLIDUS (Lindl. MS.) foliis planis glabris ligulâ nulla nisi squamulâ
+quâdam, paniculâ effusâ ramis brevibus alternis verticillatisque
+scabriusculis, paleis truncatis alterâ 3-nervi alterâ binervi.]
+
+<p>2D JUNE.--Two half-boats were mounted on frames, and fixed over
+two of the light carts, and other preparations made for the prosecution of
+the journey with a small party. My plan was to reduce each man's ration
+of flower from 7lbs. to 4lbs. per week: to allow a larger quantity of
+mutton: some gelatine and barley, dried potatoes, etc. With my party, I
+now proposed to take forward a portion of the sheep, as not requiring
+carriage, and Mr. Stephenson, a man to assist him, and the shepherd,
+formed the only addition to the number with which I had advanced to
+this point. Mr. Kennedy had brought me a dispatch from Commissioner
+Mitchell, accompanied by some newspapers, in which I read such
+passages as the following:--"Australia Felix and the discoveries of Sir
+Thomas Mitchell now dwindle into comparative insignificance." "We
+understand the intrepid Dr. Leichardt is about to start another expedition
+to the Gulf, keeping to the westward of the coast ranges," etc., etc. Not
+very encouraging to us, certainly; but we work for the future.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; at noon, 67°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>3D JUNE.--This day one of the party caught several fishes in the river,
+which appeared to be of the same species as the Eelfish, or Plotosus
+tandanus described in the journal of my first journey (Vol. i. p. 95). It is
+therein stated to be an Asiatic form of fish, on the authority of Mr. Wm.
+M'Leay, but in other respects this was identical with one in the Barwan.
+The course downwards of the new river, which we even now believed to
+be called the Maran, from what we had gathered from the natives, was
+thus almost proved to be towards the southern rivers. I instructed Mr.
+Kennedy to employ the party in digging, and fencing in, and daily
+watering, a garden; also, to make a stockyard wherein to lodge the cattle
+at night, as this would leave more men disposable for the immediate
+protection, if necessary, of the camp and stores. I also gave him very
+particular instructions as to the natives, that no intercourse should be
+allowed between them and the men; that he should, nevertheless, use
+them very civilly, and endeavour to obtain some information, if possible,
+respecting the final course of the Maran, etc. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+16°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 34°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-13"></a><img alt="" src="trop-13.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map V. The country and the routes between the Maranòa and Mount Mudge, and those along the River Victoria</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter05"></a>
+<h4>Chapter V.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE
+FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR
+BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE
+TRIBE.--HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER
+FROM THE WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE
+N.W.--DETERMINE TO FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE
+ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL
+ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH
+SCRUBS, AND OVER SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE
+MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.
+--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE
+RIVER WARREGO DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT.
+--MOUNT FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE
+NOGOA.--COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF
+SCRUB, IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN
+DOWNS.--BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT
+MUDGE.--LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.</blockquote>
+
+<p>
+4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr.
+Kennedy adieu, for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my
+party and light carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left
+this zealous assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in
+departing on a hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the
+population might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left,
+predominated with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and
+repassing through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a
+length of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to
+be assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning
+and treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we
+parted in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a
+hope, I must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of
+pleasure, looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to
+encounter, and considering the state of my own health.
+
+<p>The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and
+delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;
+therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day, and
+go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter journey.
+This was only of six miles from the depôt camp. Amongst the waterworn
+pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of coal and the
+rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its concomitant strata.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at 9 p.m., 40°.
+
+<p>5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to
+the river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and
+convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I
+accordingly sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr.
+Kennedy, and with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring
+forward one of the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry
+channels of tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight,
+like the main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable
+point to encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there
+gullies rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the
+intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to
+contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to
+the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was
+very open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of
+water, forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from
+north to south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked
+XXXI., last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24°; at 4 p.m.,
+70°; at 9, 43°.
+
+<p>6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,
+confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of
+course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the
+time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had
+now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical
+work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have
+had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men
+were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of
+Miquel was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26° 6' 25" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 50°.
+
+<p>7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as
+we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with
+water-courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious
+impediment. At length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range,
+and a long ridge appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely,
+following up the smooth clay floor of a water-course, I found myself
+gradually entangled in a bad scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After
+cutting our way through it, for a mile and a half, I sought on the other
+side for any hollow leading off water, and found one which brought us
+into an open forest flat with a fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula
+appeared on its skirts; and, at length, abundance of water, also, in the
+ponds. The grass was so luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped
+beside it, without seeking the river, to which these ponds seemed
+adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 70°
+(XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet.
+
+<p>8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was
+very fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating
+country intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics.
+At length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the
+west. Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main
+channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I
+was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although
+its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round
+even from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it,
+obliged me to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid
+them. We thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably
+level, and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed
+a water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,
+where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole
+nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I
+approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle
+from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on
+this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 36°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 70°. (XXXIII.)
+
+<p>9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I
+considered that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet
+weather; and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in
+which I wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to
+explore the country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest.
+Little rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of
+hay, but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I
+found a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful
+clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few
+bushes, by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and
+endeavoured to talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh,
+who was with me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his
+language, and in vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this
+unintelligible parley at some distance, (for they would not come close
+up,) we rode on. We came at length on a sandy country with much
+Callitris, but the whole surface was undulating, and we crossed several
+chains of deep ponds, all falling to our right, or eastward; some
+containing water. At length, I perceived on the right, a deeper valley, and
+found in it a little river with a rocky bed, and coming from the N. N. W.
+At two miles further, along my N. W. course, I found it crossed it,
+coming from W. S. W., and here I turned, well pleased to find an
+abundant supply of water, and a good country in the best direction for
+our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on rock, and the water was
+plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the evening, after sunset we
+were called to by a numerous tribe of natives, assembled on the opposite
+steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we had encamped. By the
+particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had seen in the
+morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was evidently
+their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil in the bud,
+and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in line before
+the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced steadily up the
+opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud jeering noise. They set
+up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced to the brow of the cliff,
+as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently ascended, they fell off, and,
+by the time we gained the height, they had retired to a considerable
+distance, still shouting vociferously. Two, however, were seen drawing
+round our left flank, in a little gully, followed by a female carrying
+spears. I discharged my rifle over their heads, upon which they hastened
+to their fellows. On firing another shot over the dark noisy mass before
+us, they became suddenly quite silent, probably persuaded that we were
+really in earnest. We marched through their camp, made a feint, by
+descending into a gully, of coming upon them unawares, and continued
+there, until silence and darkness secured our peaceful occupation of the
+ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and noise, which might have
+been kept up until morning, and until they had worked themselves into
+that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think they have courage to
+fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up, they were sure to
+have followed us, and gathered a savage population in our rear. Lat., 25°
+54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at 4 p.m., 70; at 9, 50°.
+(XXXIII.)
+
+<p>10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession
+Creek, for so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until
+we filled a hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of
+yesterday. Thus we reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding
+much heavy sand in the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest
+point I had previously visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 p.m.,
+75°; at 9, 39°. Height above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)
+
+<p>11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were
+obliged to turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction
+whence the river came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of
+only 3½ miles, and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I
+thus came upon the rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording
+an easy means of crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only
+passable place I had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere.
+The strata at this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced
+me to travel westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner,
+a synclinal line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We
+passed through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable
+elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained
+grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds
+falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water,
+whereupon I returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9
+p.m., 38°. Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)
+
+<p>12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with
+ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a
+yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of waterworn
+pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a silicious
+petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse track of
+yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which grew
+brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we came
+upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew the
+GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10 feet. I
+found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was here
+1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further on
+were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became overcast
+with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight showers fell.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 74°; at 4p.m., 73°; at 9, 60°. The
+wind and clouds came from the west.
+
+<p>13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the
+northward; nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again
+lose westing, until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W.
+The morning was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to
+gall the necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that
+direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow,
+rosewood, and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and
+continuous. I fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course
+there was from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more
+sandy, although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the
+northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it
+ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had
+almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then
+burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I
+therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make
+much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at noon, 57°; at 4 p.m.,
+54°; at 9, 48°.
+
+<p>[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles further
+would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the head of the
+river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]
+
+<p>14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a
+change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were
+filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and
+took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered
+rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began to
+think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following
+down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25° 47'
+28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 55°; at 4 p.m., 57°; at 9,
+38° (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.
+
+<p>15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its
+channel became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few
+miles below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in
+one part of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it
+would have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the
+S.S.W. I thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path
+was thus again crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then
+travelled 12½ miles, and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the
+day's journey, with little exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but
+for the rain that had fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and
+oxen. As it was, they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river,
+Mr. Stephenson caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a
+circumstance almost proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We
+found this day a new narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with
+bark thick, soft, and fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA
+HOLOSERICEA was loaded with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods.
+Among the herbage was observed the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and
+the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the light dry sand. Novelty in the
+plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be expected; the weather was
+cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment tolerably efficient.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 p.m., 58°; at 9 p.m., 46° (XXXVII.).
+Height above the sea, 1827 feet.
+
+<p>[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus mucronatoacuminatis
+supra glabris subtùs subsericeis marginibus arcte revolutis,
+paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-tomentosis.
+These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every other
+species.]
+
+<p>16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river
+I had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th
+instant. The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning
+was about 2½ miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and
+even south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there
+was a little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I
+had intersected from the high station east of the depôt. It now bore 12°
+west of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country
+would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris
+was, as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand
+between them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its
+course, consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when
+their direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of
+encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be
+found in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for
+water, I found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°;
+at 9 p.m., 54°. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.
+
+<p>[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis
+canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis
+superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus
+parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis
+concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very
+distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid
+hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant, but
+very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]
+
+<p>17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain
+already mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick
+forests of callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open
+places amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground
+was undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of
+these ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at
+length attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the
+summit I ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond
+it, we came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we
+greatly wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon
+hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy
+flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous but
+dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this downwards
+about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the sandstone
+cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks. Ascending
+at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above, and an open
+forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up at a rocky
+point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the Maran,
+convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far off. We
+descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry watercourse
+lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river. Here,
+however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform
+breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W.,
+and I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,
+however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and
+the sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up
+the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found
+some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,
+which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for
+our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards
+until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without
+drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent
+throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from
+30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams
+might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained a
+vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was
+rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with
+rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make
+the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst
+the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I found,
+growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected by Allan
+Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of Hunter's
+River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on the
+Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 9 p.m., 61°.
+
+<p>18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly
+refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal
+Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the
+bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until
+he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst
+the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the
+summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my
+survey, lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was
+unimpeded by gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive
+view, embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of
+volcanic cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the
+direction of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little
+could be seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies,
+by which the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint
+in a long line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed
+thus to pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges
+about the 25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden
+from my sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I
+had ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance
+bounded by low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides,
+like cliffs, towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke,
+indicated a good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station,
+that eastward of the depôt camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then
+attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the
+officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the
+summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,
+and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at
+a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could
+be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for
+which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race
+as had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science,
+and the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the
+world to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names
+were applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do
+honour to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a
+bald-forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to
+the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,
+Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished
+to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,
+Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all
+sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on
+which I stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as
+to form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,
+"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes
+grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst
+them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On
+returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a
+spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;
+having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal
+Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:
+thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds
+in the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the
+crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the
+horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more
+water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to the
+north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible from
+the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had found,
+in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone gullies
+radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards Mount
+Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of mountainous
+obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the principal
+features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for our carts
+in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first establish the
+party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it along the range
+towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be necessary, in order to
+turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking some rocky gully within a
+convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again to explore these recesses
+for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's pond in the main channel.
+Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two beautiful and delicate ferns,
+the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM ASSIMILE, the Australian
+maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII, on the
+rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a variety of E.
+SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise, 56°; at noon,
+69°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 55°. Height above the sea, 1578 feet; and above
+river bed 40 feet.
+
+<p>[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
+longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis) reticulatovenosis.
+This species is remarkable in the size and shape of its petiolated
+leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences (galls), each
+with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as many unequal
+projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of some
+BEGONIÀ.]
+
+<p>19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the
+grass for our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point,
+the sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's
+track towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which
+broke abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to
+the right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
+river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
+valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
+horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had
+already found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water
+sufficient for the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down
+the valley while they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile
+from the camp. The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this
+one, were dry. Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent
+quality. Pigeons were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA)
+which is so great a luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the
+feathered race. The highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day
+appeared (by Captain King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet.
+That of the camp over the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of
+these cliffs above the bed of the river being thus about 300 feet.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 61°.
+
+<p>20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the
+country beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest
+land, and a less broken country, in a direction much further to the
+westward than the course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I
+now proceeded W.N.W. towards that open forest land. We found the
+country open for some miles, then, entering a flat or valley, I descended
+gradually between sandstone rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep
+ponds led to the north-west. On following this down, I found it turned
+more and more to the westward, and at length to the south-west,
+whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy banks, and, following up a ravine
+from the other side, again endeavoured to pursue my intended course.
+We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a sandstone range, and descended
+by another valley which led first northward, but terminated in joining a
+spacious grassy flat with dry ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this
+downwards for several miles in a rainy evening, and found at last, to my
+disappointment, that this also turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and
+hemmed in by low rocky points of ground, of very uniform shape. Many
+marks of natives appeared on the trees, and, in good seasons, it must be
+one of their favourite spots. I left it, however, when darkness and heavy
+rain obliged me to look for shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward.
+By the time we arrived at this, we could see no grassy spot for our
+horses, nor any sort of cover for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a
+fallen tree, and under this, covered with a few boughs, we lay down on
+the wet earth for the night, being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal,
+water for ourselves and horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
+69°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 57°.
+
+<p>21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we
+should have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of
+well filled ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment
+to this journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were
+unavoidable. On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine
+open forest hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of
+Mount Owen, had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak
+induced me to approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little
+water-course in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the
+product of last night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the
+deviation from my route. A group of the most picturesque hills
+imaginable lay to the northward, and were connected with this, the whole
+being branches from the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep
+blue colour, where their clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly
+of a golden hue, from the rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke
+through the heavy clouds and poured rays over them, which perfected the
+beauty of the landscape. I recognised, from this apex, my station on
+Mount Owen, and several hills I had intersected from it. Amongst others,
+the three remarkable cones to the westward of Mount Faraday,
+apparently a continuation of the line of summits I have already
+mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal trap in nodules, the
+crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of lime, and there were
+many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round shot, strewed about.
+A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest part, and, on this
+summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by local attraction, and
+quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket sextant, and with it took
+some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily enjoyed a breakfast, and
+named the hill which gave us the water, Mount Aquarius. Returning
+towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived at the head of a
+gully which led tolerably direct until we found our track, in the creek I
+had run down on the preceding day. But night was approaching, and we
+had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern before which a
+large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night there in my cloak,
+I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at the camp, at 4 p.m.,
+had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer to 22°, or 10°
+below the freezing point.
+
+<p>22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
+determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
+original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
+neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a passing
+shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
+Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route,
+from the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that
+summit to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of
+the Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land
+seemed the highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's
+Table Land. I could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix
+it in my map. I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the
+northward, and a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country
+beyond, through which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to
+prepare for a "raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 27°; at noon, 52°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 59°.
+
+<p>23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled
+nearly northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large
+kangaroo entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in
+avoiding those on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran,
+showed me that this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to
+Mount Clift from my former observations, and therefore followed it by
+keeping between the heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found
+one favourable for a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy,
+valley, extending about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes
+evidently held much water, although they were then dry. This soon,
+however, turned to the south-west, evidently to join the channel I had
+before explored. Quitting it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended
+sandstone cliffs and pushed through scrubs, determined to proceed
+directly north-ward, until I met with valleys falling north-west. We thus
+passed just under the most easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came,
+about sunset, to a hollow containing ponds, in two of which we found
+water. Here we gladly bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and
+were numerous higher up the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at
+noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 50°; at 9, 40°.
+
+<p>24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
+frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
+which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
+Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
+after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing feature,
+(especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley descending to
+the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water holes, and in two of
+these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The course, throughout all
+its windings, was towards the north-west, and this I, at the time, thought,
+might be a northern water. I therefore returned, anxious to bring the party
+thus far, at all events, and resolved to follow this little river down. We
+arrived, on our way back, in the evening of the same day, in the valley I
+had quitted in the morning, having followed down a water-course from
+the end of Hope's Table Land, under which I had passed, in search of a
+good way for the carts. Although we had seen promising ponds of water
+in this little channel, we could find none in the lower part, having in the
+expectation of finding some, rode on until darkness prevented me from
+going further. We were thus obliged to pass the night (a very cold one)
+without water, and almost without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern
+where I had slept a few nights before, especially when I arose here in the
+night to mend the fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt
+afterwards that at the camp, the thermometer at 4 p.m. had been as low
+as 17° of Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 51°; at 4 P.
+M. 49°; at 9, 29°.
+
+<p>[* This was 15° degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much
+more easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
+moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
+Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated
+7th April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
+
+<p>"With a temperature of 20° below the freezing point, we found the ice to form
+so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the barrier in so
+extremely severe a period of the season being impracticable, we stood
+away to the westward, for the purpose of making another attempt to
+approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude (76° S.) on the 15th
+February."]
+
+<p>25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
+minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
+rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
+not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
+bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
+stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
+the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount Clift,
+or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country, should be
+preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the eastern
+gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift than at the
+point where I before came down. But I found them much more
+acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
+rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
+called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
+from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
+its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
+towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us
+upon the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
+looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
+and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
+discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
+dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it!
+However that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding
+water. In the neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were
+collected; viz. NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES
+TENUIFOLIA, ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with
+HOVEA LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA,
+a low shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small
+species of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a
+verdant fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small
+red berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
+appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
+being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have
+been an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost
+tomentose above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus
+DODONOEA, frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its
+flowers.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 50°; at 4 p.m. 51°;
+at 9, 22°.
+
+<p>[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus, foliis
+obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque, capsulis
+tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
+
+<p>26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
+finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
+course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed
+the barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be
+700 feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
+to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel along
+its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had bivouacked
+on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before sunset,
+encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which were
+two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the horses
+nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered out of
+buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
+abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
+cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+14°; at noon, 48°; at 4 p.m. 47°; at 9, 37°.
+
+<p>27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to
+come directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
+bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
+possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
+within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left, and
+some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
+encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
+cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
+way, about 3 p.m., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced
+with our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up
+by sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
+extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very luxuriant,
+apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately to the
+westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
+bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was
+open along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along
+its sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and
+various remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River,
+forming a shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 20°; at 9 p.m., 29°. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
+
+<p>28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the
+ordinary weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the
+barometer also indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I
+sent the party forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to
+the ponds in the newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I
+proceeded myself, accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the
+fine cone already mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and
+extensive view of the mountains further northward. Most of the summits
+I had previously intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just
+appeared over an intermediate woody range, through which I was at a
+loss to discover where our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the
+north-west, I could just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills
+arising from a much lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever
+might be the final course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and
+water. The most important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a
+grey misty tint, as if it marked a valley descending from the highest
+eastern mountains, towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest.
+Bare crests of similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole
+extent of that valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in
+such a clime, with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if
+watered well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it
+was fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended
+consisted of trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at
+its base, and on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact
+felspathic rock which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has
+been considered a very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an
+altered rock. Here, in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to
+break into irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved;
+and I observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side
+lay uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60°. That this is a hypogene
+rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident at
+Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
+affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
+had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM
+ELLIPTICUM. I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since
+ascertained, by that officer's register and calculations, the height of this
+summit above the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159
+feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 55°; at 9, 25°. (XXXIX)
+
+<p>29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water
+(coming from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left
+bank of the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged
+me to make some détours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we
+regained the banks of the river, although our progress was not
+considerable. Its general course was still north-west, to the spot selected
+for my second camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks
+high, rounded, and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel
+was rarely to be seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent
+temporary showers seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I
+ascertained the variation of the needle to be 8° 4' E. here. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 25°; at 4 p.m., 68°; at 9, 53°. Height above the sea, 1914 feet.
+(XL.)
+
+<p>30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the
+southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered with
+scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the carts
+along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did not
+proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged us to
+abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
+projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
+direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the
+bank, southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
+directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained a
+view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
+and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
+this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of smoke
+seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but, towards
+the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this disappointment.
+Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an intervening woody
+range, there indicated a much lower and different kind of country, as if
+that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern waters; the woody
+intervening range appearing to be the division between them. As our last
+explored river again turned southward, it seemed reasonable to expect,
+beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing a different course.
+This range was plainly traceable from the high mountains more to the
+eastward, and was continuous westward to three remarkable conical hills,
+beyond which, the view did not extend. On the same range, a fine tableshaped
+mountain appeared nearly north. This I had already intersected
+from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The hill on which I stood
+consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the western extremity of
+Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards found by Mr.
+Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That ravine was
+extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The bottle-tree
+(Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it, in the
+stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One thorny tree
+or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again appeared here;
+it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf somewhat like the human
+hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright scarlet colour, about the
+shape and size of a French bean. This, sometimes grew to a tree as much
+as a foot in diameter; and the natives, who, like Nature herself, may be
+said to do nothing in vain, had cut one down, and carried off the whole of
+the trunk. The wood was of a leaden colour. This proved to be a new
+species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*] By our last day's journey, we had lost
+two miles of northing, and had thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south
+latitude. I therefore determined to cross our friendly little river, and look
+for another beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+44°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1732
+feet. (XLI.)
+
+<p>[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
+foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
+lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although
+no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the pod
+and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad and
+not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings extended.]
+
+<p>1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to
+look into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
+western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
+into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
+that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
+into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
+to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
+clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I take
+him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out, and
+ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
+accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran northwest,
+and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow it
+then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
+back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
+to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
+way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to
+me. One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other
+or any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave
+to this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
+side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
+Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
+none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
+particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved ironbark,
+was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
+leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered
+lead-wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant
+among the grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was
+producing its small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow
+leaves and globular fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new
+CAPPARIS.[**] Thermometer, at daybreak, 35°; at 9 p.m., 38°.
+
+<p>[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis
+obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus subsolitariis.]
+
+<p>[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,
+foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus
+aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,
+stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-14"></a><img alt="" src="trop-14.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Tree without branches</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I
+had been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it
+widened very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a
+deep current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices
+seemed to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most
+picturesque outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us,
+resembled pyramids, and I saw an open country beyond them, from
+which other summits of extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we
+had found no moisture in the ponds, and lamented that a country, in
+every other respect so fine, should be without water. Further on, I
+perceived reeds in the hollow of the valley, and Yuranigh said there must
+be a spring, upon which he walked in amongst them, but still found the
+earth dry. The reeds at length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at
+the lower part of the flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to
+examine that point. He emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a
+distance, made Douglas, my other man, say, "He has found water." He
+had found A RUNNING STREAM, to which he had been guided by its own
+music, and taking a tin pot, he brought me some of it. The water was
+clear and sparkling, tasting strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that
+this was the head of a river that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of
+picturesque beauty and pastoral abundance, within eighty miles of the
+tropics, we had discovered the first running stream seen on this journey. I
+returned, determined to bring the party thus far, and with the intention of
+passing that night where we had found water in a rock about six miles
+back, that we might sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had
+also the benefit of a cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we
+defied the frost of a very cold night, the thermometer having been
+registered at the camp, at 3 a.m., as low as 7°. In the scrubs we had
+passed through in the morning, a variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA,
+with grey velvety leaves, was scarcely in flower; and I observed a
+beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS with large tubular flowers.[*] The
+ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the sandstone ground above the gullies,
+and a broad-leaved form of the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone
+brightly, and the rock being full of silver mica, the splendour of the scene
+imparted to my eye and mind then a degree of gratification far beyond
+any associations of the richest furniture of a palace. We found it
+impossible to get our horses to the water; but we hit upon an expedient
+which answered even better than a bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak.
+
+<p>[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi in
+petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis acuminatis,
+corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra medium
+solutâ.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines long.
+Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]
+
+<p>3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and
+found an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at
+the camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part
+of the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°;
+at noon, 60; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 26°. Height of camp above the sea, 1800
+feet. (XLII.)
+
+<p>4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this
+morning. Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the
+banks had been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance
+we hit upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy
+valley descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky
+crooked part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub
+directly to the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the
+valley, and arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of
+my bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by
+Arcturus) to be 24° 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 4 p.m.,
+49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-15"></a><img alt="" src="trop-15.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The Pyramids</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze
+our tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We
+proceeded along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which
+appeared quite isolated, and just such as painters place in middle
+distance, I named Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of
+the right bank of the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had
+suddenly brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we
+had before us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards
+the country we were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country
+seemed new to us. The barometer showed we were rapidly descending,
+and I expected that our living stream would soon join that greater stream,
+the basin of which I thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from
+Mount P. P. King on the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the
+others, curved round from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in
+mountains equidistant between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it
+was reasonable to suppose that we had at length crossed the division
+between northern and southern waters. That between eastern and western
+waters was still to be discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where
+water was so scarce then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means
+of determining where that division was. If the general course of this river
+was found to be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that
+the dividing ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the
+westward of north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our
+route, and this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing
+north-westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King.
+Latitude 24° 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P.
+M., 49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, according to sixteen
+observations, 1421 feet. (XLIV.)
+
+<p>6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA
+appeared amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods
+below, we found an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA
+(Reichb.) VAR. MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was
+less angular, and the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long
+hoary leaves, and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA,
+at a later season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also
+was found here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**]
+Travelling along the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of
+sparkling water to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could
+only account for the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a
+season, by the support of many springs. We made sure of water now for
+the rest of our journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et
+labetur in omne volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any
+I had ever seen in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals
+in ruins; others forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and
+contrasted with the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a
+fine stream in the foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole
+country. It was a discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those
+beautiful recesses of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown.
+The better to mark them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of
+Salvator Rosa.[***] The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the
+thick woods, just as John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them
+out in his beautiful sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature
+come so near these creations of genius and imagination. Where we
+encamped, the river was very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that
+the use of a bucket was necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding
+every precaution, one animal walked into the river, and could not be got
+out without great difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were
+two enormous eels, beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus
+lay abundantly on the banks, about the old fires of the natives. These
+were larger than either those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran;
+and although such freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a
+peculiarity in these was pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they
+much resembled the impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is
+much broader at the toes than at the heel). We here met with a new
+species of BORONIA, resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties
+afterwards occurred. It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale
+purple flowers.[****] A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining
+leaves, also grew here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed
+resembling European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with
+white flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS
+formed a small shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4
+p.m., 49°; at 9, 38°. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.
+
+<p>[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus
+supra glabris subtus incanis, paniculâ terminali tomentosâ, floribus
+distantibus.]
+
+<p>[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis
+oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris
+trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime
+pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6 linearibus
+glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]
+
+<p>[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and
+ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on
+mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]
+
+<p>[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis
+pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus subsolitariis
+axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]
+
+<p>[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis
+falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis
+subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis
+solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel
+brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia
+shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually
+almost sessile.]
+
+<p>7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon
+found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in
+one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush
+mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the
+current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the
+hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most
+charming morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an
+open forest which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and
+in a general direction about north-west. At length we approached the
+northern limits of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it,
+as we had reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry
+channel, which bore the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons.
+Following this dry channel down, I found its course turned to the
+northward, and even to the north-east. When we were disposed to
+encamp, I could find no water in the bed, nor were we better off when we
+had encamped, until Corporal Graham dug between two rocks therein,
+and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in one day vanished the pleasing
+prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of a stream flowing in the
+direction of our intended route. This might be, I then thought, the
+tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would be found to flow
+westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the desired north-west
+direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at 4 p.m., 58°; at 9, 25°.
+(XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.
+
+<p>8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this
+river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling
+into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick
+brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged
+gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,
+induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined to
+penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that there I
+might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction, or, if not,
+cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was lost,
+however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses
+crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The
+scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings
+admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of sunset, I
+found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only half a
+minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with difficulty, about
+two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of a small watercourse,
+I found that even this turned south-east, evidently to fall into the
+reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I determined on an
+immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back to our friendly
+river. It was comparatively easy to return through the opening we had
+made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so that by
+twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the river, and
+near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying almost in my
+face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we afterwards found
+the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of the bullocks got
+bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole strength of the party
+dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at 4 p.m., 54°; at
+9, 25°. Height above the sea, 1241 feet.
+
+<p>9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the
+scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and
+the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24° 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+14°; (in my tent, 18°;) at 9 p.m., 48°.
+
+<p>10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight
+eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to cut
+a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.
+While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but
+met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that
+direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.
+towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined
+them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through
+open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy
+gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.
+Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the
+border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24° 33'
+25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 p.m., 62°; at 9,
+29°. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.
+
+<p>11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a
+fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again
+impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of
+this river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a
+large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to the
+eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward. It
+was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the coast,
+and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in it, about
+the latitude of 25° S. This was more apparent to me on crossing the river,
+and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He could see
+no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high table land
+already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could trace the course
+of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed them to encamp, and
+proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W. direction, carrying
+provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea of Brigalow--</p>
+
+<blockquote>"----And we did buffet it,<br>
+With lusty sinews throwing it aside,<br>
+And stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."</blockquote>
+
+<p>After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were
+rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.
+That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the
+foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood,
+extended far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of
+mountains of romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.
+
+<p>"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"
+
+<p>included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which,
+with its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the
+finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a perfectly
+clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had emerged,
+through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond that spot,
+until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits before
+me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these masses,
+seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my
+observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,
+the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a
+great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of
+quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it. I
+could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense of
+shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and prove
+ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had indulgently
+destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we traversed,
+consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood in great
+abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden as to be
+only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken character.
+Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich black earth,
+which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history may be simple,
+and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy could but find it
+out. We found, further on, a channel full of water, with reeds about the
+bed of it. There had been a current in it a short time previously, and,
+indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in some hollows in the
+Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and thus might have
+afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had other directions
+been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow near the water,
+not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and thus we passed the
+night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 18°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 30°.
+
+<p>12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the
+assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,
+than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed
+Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the
+reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet in
+that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the
+remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,
+although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason for
+supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could escape
+to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; in my tent, 15°; at noon,
+67° at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 35°. Height above the sea, 1107 feet.
+
+<p>13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river
+Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W., but
+deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick
+scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we
+crossed, was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the
+river, where I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains
+adjacent, the ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we
+saw also various new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs
+in the scrub. The banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay.
+I employed the party to make a bridge across it, and this was well
+completed before sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4
+p.m. 68°; at 9, 40°. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)
+
+<p>14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we
+travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the richest
+plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS, and
+PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most
+abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have
+been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived
+at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We
+soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,
+apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub
+of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so
+thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad, but
+because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so easily
+take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack, after
+imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich land was
+thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex, agate, and
+chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most strikingly
+resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an entire trunk
+lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains of a tree! I
+obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of this were rare.
+The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was 1512 feet above the
+sea.
+
+<p>Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to
+the westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping
+towards a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to
+find an open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at
+length arrived. I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and
+having halted the party to examine them, I found they were quite
+impassable. Such an unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open
+country, yet UNDER that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it
+was unexpected, and I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I
+had seen on our right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also
+found some large ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were
+pitching the tents I rode down the valley about two miles, and found that
+the direction of the water-course was about north-east. Such a direction
+was not very favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country
+beyond the limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it
+further. Latitude, 24° 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 p.m.,
+66°; at 9, 49°. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.
+
+<p>15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I
+proceeded about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length,
+mighty rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further.
+Leaving him in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely
+accessible with Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated
+summit, I saw still worse gullies before us, amongst which I could
+perceive no feature affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any
+characteristic of the structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the
+rugged summits I had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered,
+and could not then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on
+completing my map), that they were then under my feet. The highest
+parts seemed to extend south-westward. To cross such a region with our
+carts, was quite impossible, and I could only return, and, however
+reluctantly, follow down the valley in which we had encamped, until it
+should afford access to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse
+were steep, the bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous,
+alternately closing on rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus
+we were obliged to cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered
+each crossing a difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after
+crossing ten times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct
+distance from the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each
+crossing, cut the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general
+direction, I ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near
+the spot, where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this
+having been the first water we had seen during that day's laborious
+journey. Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at 4 p.m., 65°; at 9, 44°.
+
+<p>16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I
+considered it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself,
+and thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour
+and delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore
+distressing to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to
+work out of it, to get round them. The whole day was consumed in
+proceeding thus about 5½ miles, and in an easterly direction. The
+closing in of the valley lower down, seemed to shut us from further
+progress even so, and I encamped, rather at a loss how to proceed. Just
+then Mr. Stephenson came to inform me that he had seen, from a rocky
+point on the left, an opening to the north-west, and level ground beyond
+it. I therefore determined to accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre
+the country in that direction. By digging in the bed of the creek, water
+was again obtained by Corporal Graham. Some extremely fragrant
+shrubs were discovered in these rocky recesses, especially one, which
+filled the air with perfume to a great distance around. It seemed to be a
+EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit, but with a powerful odour of balm,
+and formed a bush five feet high, growing on sandstone rocks, having a
+narrow leaf, and rather thorny stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*]
+There was another bush, with leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but
+having a perfume equally strong of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that
+neither the seed, flower, nor fruit of these interesting shrubs could be
+obtained at that season. In that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS
+BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed, and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The
+soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began to indicate its flowering season,
+and we found a magnificent new crimson CALLISTEMON with its young
+flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new DODONOEA with wingless,
+3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species of AOTUS, with narrow hoary
+leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees was a splendid new GEIGERA, with
+broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very
+singular and little known fern, with narrow leaves and small orbicular
+leaflets, was also there, with the ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a
+shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The
+BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-like heads of flowers, was common;
+and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA MONOPHYLLA was observed among
+the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 9 p.m., 41°.
+
+<p>[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
+foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
+basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
+
+<p>[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute tuberculatis,
+foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-parallelo-venosis
+viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to name this
+EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the deliciously fragrant
+lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as the recent state of the
+plant.]
+
+<p>[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
+quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
+lanatis.]
+
+<p>[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-lanceolatis
+parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis 3-
+locularibus trigonis apteris.]
+
+<p>[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
+crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis, calycis
+vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
+villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOÏDES Meisn., but differing in the
+narrow and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
+
+<p>[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe petiolatis subtus
+obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This appears to differ
+from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
+
+<p>17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes.
+By merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another
+water-course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came
+from the west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I
+had previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
+this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
+deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
+broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
+gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
+all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling to
+my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
+and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at the
+gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to guard the
+entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and kangaroos
+were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very attentively, to
+be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature only. A turret
+with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first appeared through the
+trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a round hill. On a nearer
+approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey rocks, and the small pines
+climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising out of a forest of common
+trees, presented still a very remarkable object. I named the valley "Glen
+Turret," and this feature "Tower Almond," after an ancient castle, the
+scene of many early associations, and now quite as uninhabited as this.
+Passing through Glen Turret, we ascended the nearest summit on the
+right, and from it beheld a prospect most cheering, after our toils amid
+rocky ravines. On the westward, the rocky range seemed to terminate
+abruptly towards the north, in an elevated point, which seemed to
+command an extensive view over the unknown W. and N.W. Out of that
+region two isolated mountain masses arose from an open country, and
+were clothed with open forests to their summits. Further eastward,
+masses of mountain in the extreme distance appeared covered, also, with
+open forests, and presented finely rounded outlines, not likely to impede
+our passage, in any direction. But towards the N.W. our view was not so
+extensive; like the uncertain future, it still lay hid. The retrospect was
+very extensive, including Mount Faraday in the extreme distance, and
+which thus afforded me a valuable back angle for the correction of our
+longitude from any errors of detailed survey. The lofty mass of
+Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E., and I could here
+again intersect its three principal points. The view back to the Pass was
+very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on the bold summits,
+as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to the westward, an
+interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach, presenting a crescent,
+concave on that side, apparently the limit to the basin of the Nogoa, and
+the dividing range between eastern and western waters. Our Pass seemed
+to be the only outlet through the labyrinths behind us. Even the open
+plains beyond them were visible in a yellow streak above the precipices.
+Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was distinctly visible, on the
+horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at 9 p.m., 43°.
+(LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-17"></a><img alt="" src="trop-17.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Tower Almond</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
+brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
+obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its elevated
+extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction, tolerably
+open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of grass, and
+near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds descending to the
+eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the habit of a dwarf
+Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24° 6' 47" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 31°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 44°. (LII.)
+
+<p>[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
+cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus solitariis
+sessilibus.]
+
+<p>19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting
+further to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most
+northern summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up
+by gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
+and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
+near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
+summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
+Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
+apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
+feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
+the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
+appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features, although
+much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then stood,
+seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some higher
+ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the coast.
+Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken hills,
+at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-connected
+undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the south-east,
+whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy Creek, while
+others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a separate
+basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river was
+indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the left
+or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated mountain
+mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the valley
+formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point of the
+whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite, lay in
+that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10° W. of N.)
+through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
+mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
+according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
+not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
+named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
+were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
+itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
+impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
+camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
+two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
+Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
+that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
+handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
+Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham
+took the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
+expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
+woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or deeds
+suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
+this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
+which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered
+a very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
+leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
+gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
+Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**]. Although
+we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
+pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed
+us to the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had
+been frosty. Latitude, 24° 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at
+noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 47°.
+
+<p>[* See page 285.]
+
+<p>[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
+lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
+canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-18"></a><img alt="" src="trop-18.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map VI. The River Belyando</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter06"></a>
+<h4>Chapter VI.</h4>
+
+
+<blockquote>THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
+OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
+WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
+EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN
+PLAINS, WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.
+--DRY CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND
+PROCEED N.W.--FROM A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH
+BRIGALOW SCRUB TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE
+CHANNEL MORE CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY
+CHANNEL JOINS FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE
+NORTH-WEST.--CROSS FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK
+BRIGALOW.--NIGHT WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS
+COURSE BEING EASTWARD OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE
+OUR TRACK TO THE PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE
+WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART, WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH
+TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.</blockquote>
+
+<p>20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow
+scrub, on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land,
+and crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards
+the N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right,
+resembling a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was
+precipitous, and seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after
+crossing a ridge rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub
+upon it, and one or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the
+bottle tree, (DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses
+descending to the southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W.
+One, at length, on our right, taking the direction in which I was
+proceeding, viz., 10° W. of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a
+broader valley leading N.W. Following this, on a wide flat of open forest,
+we found at length a fine pond of water in it, and encamped beside it,
+after a journey of about twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to
+the base of the lofty isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower
+valley crossed it, falling either to the northward or southward. This I left
+in pleasing uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that
+locality, when I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running
+north and south. I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount
+Beaufort, in honour of my scientific friend at the Admiralty.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 66°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 62°.
+(LIII.)
+
+<p>21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad
+valley, we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly
+turned in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from
+the south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
+Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we
+had at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil
+consisted of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey.
+We got amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for
+the channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
+Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
+no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
+brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon
+arid stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently
+from drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means
+encouraging. On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles,
+at an old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that
+water was not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two
+native companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay,
+on which salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the
+Bogan, had been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The
+very grass seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so
+checked by drought. A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees,
+and convert the country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured
+further, to send the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to
+examine the country before us. Latitude, 23° 48' 36". Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 57°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 48°.
+
+<p>22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water,
+I went forward on the bearing of 30° W. of N. I soon fell in with the
+united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
+direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
+these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
+ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
+northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
+them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to
+relieve me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A
+promising valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west,
+and from it arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers,
+from other ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured
+the outlines of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this
+morning were a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of
+yesterday. Such is human life in travelling, and so it was in war at
+Salamanca this day thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short
+journey on the bank of the river. Latitude, 24° 46' 46". Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 49°, at noon, 74°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 64°. (LIV.)
+
+<p>23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so
+that none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning.
+Accordingly, on arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to
+all, that they might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we
+not fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread
+into little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes
+formed by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of
+the grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been
+due, and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we
+had travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
+scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
+with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
+and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the
+water-worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were,
+besides the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt.
+Very old and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were
+small fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large
+forked tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
+eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
+apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
+23° 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m. 80;
+at 9, 55°. (LV.)
+
+<p>24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air
+was balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney.
+Lightning had been seen to the northward during the night. In following
+the little wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub,
+and crossed two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a
+good large pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling
+the main channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles.
+With the last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became
+neighbours to the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was
+to be seen, and the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in
+length, with ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of
+thunder was heard in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year,
+that we were near the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms
+exhausted themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where
+they fell. During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next
+morning, to the northward. Latitude, 23° 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+56°; at noon, 75°; at 4, p.m., 82°; at 9, 66°. (LVI.)
+
+<p>25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
+route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
+Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
+line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
+just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
+fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
+The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
+improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
+rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to
+the eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At
+eight miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many
+ducks, and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good,
+finding that water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we
+required it. Latitude, 23° 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at
+noon, 77°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 53°. (LVII.)
+
+<p>26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out
+in that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
+scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
+of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
+genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
+travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
+indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
+straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
+rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
+new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
+flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
+useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain;
+and useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
+fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late, I
+travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained its
+banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
+bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst it,
+evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
+spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
+terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and fruit.
+Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and underside
+of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span long, cordato
+acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green and
+glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
+pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
+Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
+seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 79°; at 4 p.m., 89°; at 9, 75°.
+(LVIII,)
+
+<p>[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis, foliis
+impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis subalternis.]
+
+<p>27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
+variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much
+whereof lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there
+was any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
+little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
+water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as close
+as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
+yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
+was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
+thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
+named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a
+range in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only
+to send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
+westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
+water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
+miles. Latitude, 23° 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 83°; at 4
+p.m., 90°; at 9, 53°. (LIX.)
+
+<p>28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
+hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
+southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
+and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
+formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
+impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
+to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from the
+usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
+party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
+by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
+over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
+fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had
+been flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed
+there, the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of
+water, and beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a
+tribe of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of
+decayed stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once
+grown, and that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing;
+as if, according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to
+open downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular
+seasons, become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted
+in the scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the
+plain, and across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through
+some open forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the
+many dry channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom
+then consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit
+it, and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly
+undulating ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the
+LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a
+tree, from whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of
+which I ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it,
+through which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The
+extreme westerly escarp of these hills bore 17° E. of N., so that nothing
+was likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
+direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
+consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
+brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
+stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
+On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
+good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
+plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
+found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23° 5'
+20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 88°; at 9,
+58°. (XL.)
+
+<p>29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of
+easy access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a
+N.W. direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood
+and other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew
+in the place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open,
+park-like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a
+greenness was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these
+tropical regions. Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA
+HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike
+plant, and a form of Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the
+two other varieties. This was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species
+of the genus GEIJERA formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender
+weeping branches. It was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA,
+except that its flowers were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus
+STENOCHILUS, but new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large
+spreading tree, from which we could bring away nothing that would
+enable botanists to describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of
+the leaves, which, Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE;
+but the fruit appeared to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect
+to lead to any satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently
+from those near Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another
+language." This river was not the least unique of our recent discoveries.
+It still consisted of a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any
+one continuous channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by
+various trees growing in the banks. When their large roots became
+denuded by the floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that
+the tree fell over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the
+floating-wreck, and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of
+floating wreck became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so
+formed forced the river into new currents, working out new courses; and
+this appeared to give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It
+seems extremely favourable for the retention of water in a country where
+it may be scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun,
+preserve it much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed
+channel alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found
+the hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded
+in discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
+naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
+although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
+attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
+delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
+90° about 4 p.m., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
+recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
+disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
+in May. Latitude, 22° 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon,
+80°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 51°. (LXI.)
+
+<p>[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus in
+petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
+
+<p>[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
+apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
+lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis infimâ
+retusâ vix caeteris magis solutâ.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but much
+whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the lower
+one much broader.]
+
+<p>30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
+endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
+the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to the
+left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into extensive
+plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and that was
+skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we entered an
+open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw, from the skirts
+of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the east for several
+days past, and I was able to intersect various points. We seemed to be
+descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon, covered with
+ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved both as
+to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet high,
+was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
+DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M. DULCE. A
+hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained abundance
+of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and, instead of
+brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong grass, and much
+verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble to cross, and
+soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had run well to
+the westward. We had crossed the 147° of E. longitude, and I was very
+anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I crossed it, and
+hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a flat-topped cliffy
+range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was low; the middle
+part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our camp. It was
+likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our purpose. Latitude,
+22° 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at
+9, 45°. (LXII.)
+
+<p>31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
+that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in a
+deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
+I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
+river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This new
+river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened across
+it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction of the two
+rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green pods and dry
+pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than those of
+Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?) Beyond
+the last found river, we travelled over open forest land, occasionally
+passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might again see
+water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our abundant
+little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for such was the
+bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious dry lagoon.
+Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large floods from the
+river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still continuing along
+the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared, and I finally
+encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The course and
+character of the river below the junction last mentioned, remained to be
+ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which, before the rain, had
+been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen, which bore some
+resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered in any quantity.
+The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form from any to be
+seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard clay about the size
+and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being larger, or as much
+as 3½ feet high, others smaller. In some places they were so numerous,
+as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst, especially where the grass
+was long. Latitude of this camp, 22° 44' 45". Thermometer, at sunrise,
+52°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 43°. (LXIII.)
+
+<p>1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
+followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came
+upon the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many
+miles in that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where
+the very coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina
+appeared amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh
+went to the top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to
+the eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
+course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low range
+already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country between
+the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very low.
+Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
+course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction, and
+forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
+much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
+Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
+important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
+grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
+lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
+ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
+encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
+appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
+woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
+white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
+tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
+bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
+LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
+Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary
+CAPPARIS was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight
+inches long, although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and
+their hard leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
+afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 44°. Latitude, 22° 38' 40".
+(LXIV.)
+
+<p>[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
+longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
+solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
+
+<p>2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain,
+but lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W.
+course in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests
+alternating with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving
+dry hollows where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all
+these hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and
+children, remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These
+numerous receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with
+which even the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of
+the animal world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that
+sort of scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river,
+by travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
+the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
+camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
+river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
+would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
+nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
+terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
+be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40° N. of W. to
+40° E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost
+bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the
+river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned
+direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In the
+dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite new
+to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and a
+very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found near
+this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS CURVIPES
+was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of Acacia was
+perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also a curious
+scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22° 30' 10" S. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 29°; at noon, 61°; at 4 p.m., 69°; at 9, 40°. (LXV.)
+
+<p>[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
+oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
+pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
+pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
+distinct.]
+
+<p>[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus, oblongospathulatis
+acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et obsolete
+dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis radicalibus
+elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum vel
+trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-lanceolatis,
+floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis, membranaceis,
+ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis, petiolatisque; antherae
+liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum, labiis compressis,
+cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent. lata, crassinervia;
+scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum elongati.]
+
+<p>[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
+glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
+laciniis duabus supremis diù vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
+subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
+
+<p>3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
+crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the river
+bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain distance
+from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had been
+accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the river,
+and other food. The river was found to spread into separate channels, in
+which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them again united in a
+splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general course was by no
+means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was much to be
+apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast, and become
+another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the interior
+country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys have been
+made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
+polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
+brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part where
+we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded by
+torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn banks,
+and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from these
+obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
+scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
+two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
+coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
+the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten miles.
+The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics, which they
+seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That we had just
+quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for brigalow scrubs,
+and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered river seemed quite
+the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform; the banks being
+covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was sandy, but
+contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us to higher
+regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might fall in the
+direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin fish of the
+Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in the river to
+which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other sorts. There
+was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in particular, growing
+in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining bark of the tea-tree
+(mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of the eucalyptus; a
+HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI, but not in flower; a
+CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or at least closely allied to
+it, occupied the dry sandy ground with MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded
+weed; and some Cinchonad allied to Coffea, with young fruit, the
+size of small olives. Latitude, 22° 23' 10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°;
+at noon, 59°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 37°; with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVI.)
+
+<p>4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit
+the head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in
+any direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
+soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
+it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
+to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
+ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
+length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
+and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one
+piece of rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the
+rest, and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated flattopped
+range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
+similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
+woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
+still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
+eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
+northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
+these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to follow
+in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the horizon,
+I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to have found
+water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and absorbent.
+There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22° 19' 45" S. On this day's
+journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan, none
+of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed the
+Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like mint,
+was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new
+MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at
+9, 29°; with wet bulb, 18°.
+
+<p>[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
+excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis acuminatis
+appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis obtusis
+imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis globosis.--A
+very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII, Endl.: but
+extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of the copious
+slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the bleached slender
+branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the leaves had been, as it
+were, sunk.]
+
+<p>5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my
+expectations, we had come quite far enough from the one we had
+previously followed, which still might have turned N.W., where we
+wished it to go; although I confess the prospect was by no means
+promising. The doubt was still to be removed, and, after a night passed
+without water, the earliest dawn saw us again going forward, in a
+direction a little to the eastward of N. It was only after pursuing that line
+for seventeen miles, that we again found the river, unchanged in
+character, and still running northerly. This was a trying day for our
+animals, as they could not be watered until long after it was dark; a
+brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber, having retarded and impeded
+the carts so that they could not be got to the water sooner. Nor had this
+been possible, even then, but for the fortunate circumstance of our
+having the light of a nearly full moon. I had preceded the party by some
+miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest following my horse's tracks,
+and I had thus passed through the four miles of scrub, and reached the
+river early in the day. On returning, we found the party in the midst of
+this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even by moonlight, to the pond at
+which we had watered our horses during the day. Many dry hollows of
+indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the brigalow we had passed
+through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as much as possible,
+through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs, many of which we
+were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many deep impressions
+of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also the tracks of emus.
+Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had been following a
+kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method adopted by the
+natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which is, to
+pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they overtake the
+animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at length so
+defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk. According
+to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much higher
+above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still it spread
+into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being sometimes in
+good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be more sterile
+than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first indication of the
+river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass, and we had to ride
+two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find the river, having
+been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives. At the first place
+we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water, under the
+shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22° 10' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 61°; at 9, 36°;
+--with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVII.)
+
+<p>6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
+an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
+
+<p>7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along
+the river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
+and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
+channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water, glittered
+before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger water-fowl
+shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to the northeast,
+as if our river had been either breaking off in that direction, or met
+with some important tributary from that side. I continued to travel northwest,
+passing through some fine open forests. The character of the
+country seemed changed. The grass was of a different kind, and a
+refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of water," as
+Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared still to be
+continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward, the more I
+was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at length
+approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found this was a
+river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as the one we
+had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new tributary
+from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had been
+pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too
+probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
+towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
+eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
+opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
+ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
+could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction. Their
+report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take a ride
+forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W., and at
+two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was found
+to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still continued
+northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The STENOCHILUS
+PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet high, and in
+the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E. HYPERICIFOLIA,
+but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not glabrous. The
+DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy fruits, clothed
+the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude, 22° 2' 15" S.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 55°;
+--with wet bulb 49°. (LXVIII).
+
+<p>[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
+bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
+arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis densifloris,
+floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque tomentosis, folliculis
+oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis glabris.--Allied to G.
+CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves are narrower, not
+golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely secund: a splendid
+species.]
+
+<p>[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissimè pilosa, foliis pinnatis pinnis
+oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel incisis,
+rachi articulatâ articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis tetrapteris
+villosissimis.]
+
+<p>8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first,
+northward by compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub,
+upon fine open downs covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil
+was soft and rich, the grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias
+were strewed over these downs, which were very extensive, and from
+them I saw several rather high hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly
+over a low country to the northward. Supposing that the main channel
+would there turn round to the eastward, I proceeded north-west to
+examine the country. I soon entered a thick scrub of rosewood and other
+Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON NERVOSUM, previously seen (July)
+with rich crimson flowers, forming a large tree, in the dry open forest,
+with perfectly green spikes; also, on the branches of Eucalypti, a
+beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil was rich, yielding, and rather
+bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated limestone, or marble, appeared
+on the surface, showing that the improvement in the soil was owing to a
+change in the rocks under it. Again emerging on open plains, the country
+seemed to fall northward, which induced me to ride again in that
+direction, thinking we might meet with some river either coming from
+the N. W. or leading there. The open plains terminated upon a hollow full
+of trees, growing, as was very evident, on a lower surface. The hollows
+resembled those of brigalow scrub, and we soon found this tree in full
+possession of them. Dry channels, leading in various directions between
+N. W. and E. engaged my attention throughout the afternoon: indeed,
+they seemed interminable. At length, we detected some continuity in the
+hollows, leading towards the N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it,
+abundance of grass on the banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows
+hovering over one, raised our hopes that it contained water, as we also
+perceived a line of green vegetation over the margin. It was deep and full
+of water. Here, about 4 p.m., we were thus enabled to water our horses,
+and continue our ride independently of finding more water that evening.
+We next perceived an open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the
+country from it, we saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering
+the brigalow scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct,
+and I at length lost it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a
+direction in which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the
+mazes of another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions
+between N. W. and 20° N. of E., the latter being the general course.
+During this unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where
+the dry and naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had
+come thirty miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark,
+that I found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and
+lay down to pass the night.
+
+<p>9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded
+again into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous
+channel, and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a
+plain. Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very
+much resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found
+the river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
+ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
+We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while
+engaged laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives
+looking at us from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough
+to one who stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who
+instantly replied to my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It
+was a brief but intelligible interview; no words could have been better
+understood on both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we
+saw these natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had
+been turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
+while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was
+telegraphing with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some
+vessel with water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled,
+and advanced to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also
+that they might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green
+bough and subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us.
+Yuranigh was burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed
+him to throw them about, that the natives might see that we neither eat
+their kangaroos nor emus. I found the course of the river very straight,
+but rather more than it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts
+of the channel, lay deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other
+places, shallow hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the
+river's currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a
+grassy part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we
+had reached that morning.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-19"></a><img alt="" src="trop-19.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Missile club of natives of Central Australia</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the
+north, with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove
+as rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great
+novelty to us there. About 9 a.m., the sky was wholly overcast; but it
+finally cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3
+p.m., having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower.
+There I found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of
+water, being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined
+to explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
+the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
+visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all very
+strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them carried
+three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and a
+gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts. They
+said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
+pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr.
+Stephenson happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then
+beckoned to the party that they also should follow or go where I had
+gone, or leave that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and
+patiently, by the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my
+man Brown, being very desirous that I should return before they
+departed; thinking the old man might have given me some information
+about the river, which he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation
+seemed to arise between the old chief and the tallest man, about the
+clubs, during which the latter again came forward, and beckoned to
+others behind, who came close up also. Each carried a club under each
+arm, and another in each hand, and from the gestures made to this
+advanced party, by the rest of the tribe of young men at a distance, it
+appeared that this was intended to be a hostile movement. Brown
+accordingly drew out the men in line before the tents, with their arms in
+their hands, and forbade the natives to approach the tents. "Nothing
+damps the ardour of troops so much," says General Lloyd, "as an
+unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and these strong men
+stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five men in line, with
+incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our three dogs ran at
+them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better. They all took to
+their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of their tribe; and the only
+casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which biting at the legs of a native
+running away, he turned round, and hit the dog so cleverly with his
+missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill for months after; the
+native having again, with great dexterity, picked up his club. The whole
+of them then disappeared, shouting through the woods to their gins. It
+was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they exclaimed "Yerraman,"
+the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of these animals they
+were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much dread of the
+bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack the white
+strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but another of the
+many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight, without
+treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition. That they did
+not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when detached from the
+body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be set down as a
+favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for whenever they
+visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I was
+absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The old
+man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
+this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
+intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
+joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below that
+junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the natives, and
+learn something of the country to the north-west. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 59°; at noon, 82°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb,
+59°.
+
+<p>11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp,
+we travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
+main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
+connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
+this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which M.
+Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21° 6' S., and which he
+supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
+three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
+to about 30° E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21° 30' of latitude
+south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at
+all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its bed,
+moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600 feet),
+that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and
+western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following
+conclusions:--
+
+<p>1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
+westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
+
+<p>2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
+the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
+greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
+3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25° S., the highest spinal
+range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount
+Faraday appeared to be one.
+
+<p>I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head
+of the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
+as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
+marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
+left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
+being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
+good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
+which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
+pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
+occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
+the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
+exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
+plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
+Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves;
+and the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous
+among the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
+STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
+Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
+resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of LABICHEA.[***]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, 35°;
+--with wet bulb, 30°.
+
+<p>[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
+integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
+glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
+attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty
+well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
+Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which
+Brown also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new
+species with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by
+Sir T. Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
+
+<p>[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
+glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
+tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
+
+<p>[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
+foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
+reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
+conformibus.]
+
+<p>12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed
+themselves on the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads
+homewards, merely saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher
+point. The track already marked out by our party advancing, was so
+much easier for the draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they
+arrived at an early hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and
+travelled with ease three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the
+banks of which the grass was good, and where we therefore now
+encamped. The track of the large feet of the natives showed they had
+followed us this morning, from our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of
+burning wood they had dropped, showed that they had this day met us in
+the scrub as we returned, and had gone out of our way. Even to the
+lagoon, their track along our route was also plainly visible. I was now,
+apparently to them, at their request, leaving the country; and we should
+soon see if their purpose in visiting our camp was an honest one, and
+whether their reasonable and fair demand, was really all they
+contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°; at noon,
+70°; at 4 p.m., 71°; at 9, 65°.
+
+<p>13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond
+Camp LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in
+order to avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without
+water, and the thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing
+over fine open forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the
+river on our left when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the
+water, and distant only a few miles from the camp two journies back
+from LXVII. I was guided by the bearing of 10° E. of N. We found much
+of the grass on fire, and heard the natives' voices although we saw none.
+We crossed some patches of dry swamp where the clods had been very
+extensively turned up by the natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh
+could not form any conjecture. These clods were so very large and hard
+that we were obliged to throw them aside, and clear a way for the carts to
+pass. The whole resembled ground broken up by the hoe, the naked
+surface having been previously so cracked by drought as to render this
+upturning possible without a hoe. There might be about two acres in the
+patch we crossed, and we perceived at a distance, other portions of the
+ground in a similar state. The river had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked
+channel, with abundance of clear water in it, and firm accessible
+banks. It was still, however, enveloped in a narrow belt of brigalow. The
+shepherd having most imprudently taken the sheep to water when it was
+near sunset, lost his way in the scrub, and could not be found all night.
+Some thought he had fallen into the hands of the aborigines who were
+closely watching us; and it was obvious that had they got possession of
+our sheep, they could have annoyed us very seriously, or indeed,
+destroyed the whole party. The night was very dark, the sky having been
+overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 61°; at 4 p.m., 60; at 9,
+60.
+
+<p>14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and
+high barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I
+sent Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
+shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 a.m. He
+had been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
+fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
+been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
+found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
+seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
+encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
+at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
+more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
+drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
+towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
+rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
+from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
+decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
+was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
+other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
+grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
+probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
+
+<p>[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long, linear
+attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the other
+with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large forest
+trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
+
+<p>15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we
+arrived at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course,
+(7° E. of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to
+cut off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged
+me to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
+midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
+of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
+encamped about 3 p.m., when the rain again came on, the morning
+having been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 60°;
+--with wet bulb, 58°.
+
+<p>16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
+country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
+river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in our
+route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
+filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
+tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-tree
+of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There also
+grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered MELALEUCA,
+resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*]; and, in the
+scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-like shrub
+fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I intended
+to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We thus left
+Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at that of
+LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 65; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9,
+63°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
+
+<p>[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
+utrinque acutissimis, spicâ terminali laxiusculâ rachi pilosâ, calyce
+glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis breviore.]
+
+<p>17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen,
+the product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
+the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in heaps,
+or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of this
+singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered in
+any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round clouds
+driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this of Bunten
+stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been formerly
+encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from S. W.,
+we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only on the
+dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and I could
+have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
+horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
+rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just mentioned,
+which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a laxative
+medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks were
+quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most parts
+covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in good
+time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
+ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
+plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
+wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
+evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 p.m., a wind
+from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+55°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 74°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
+
+<p>18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the
+sky was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved
+off, at our usual hour, 7 a.m. About nine, the western portion of the sky
+seemed loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a
+heavy rain began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of
+clay, which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much
+delay, at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI.,
+and there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without
+intermission until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into
+mud, almost knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded,
+of water in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which
+was still to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river,
+flowing towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°;
+at noon, 54°; at 4 p.m., 53°.
+
+<p>19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
+brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the earth.
+The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I had
+thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in that
+interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I had
+ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
+gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing range,
+if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the parallel
+of 24° or 25°, the fall of waters and of the whole country was towards the
+south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so decidedly in
+the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we had just
+explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending from a
+mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet above the
+sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those we had
+seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the
+water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable to
+expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to the Gulf
+of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal range
+extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island, and
+there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward
+and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be
+sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result of
+which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the
+north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the
+country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most
+momentous interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and
+provisions almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic
+line before we could return to it), I was determined to carry the
+exploration so far, with whatever means could be spared from the party,
+even had it been necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like
+a native, on opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 45°; at noon, 63°; at 4 p.m., 63°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb,
+44°.
+
+<p>20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
+formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
+and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground
+passed over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every
+hollow, a great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect
+of relief from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes
+past 10 p.m. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke
+every man in it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next,
+a blaze of light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass,
+or revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
+sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which a
+sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was such
+that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the ground,
+and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was very
+clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46°.
+
+<p>21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through
+hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
+impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful
+for the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had
+hitherto confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country.
+We cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our
+journey was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to
+avoid the former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and
+much bad brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the
+sake of a piece of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most
+pleasant, temperate, and Englishlike, though we were still within the
+tropics. A sweet breeze blew from the S. W., and the degree of
+temperature was between 50° and 60° of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable,
+I believe, of any, to the human frame. There was abundance of water, and
+young grass was daily growing higher; many trees were also beginning
+to blossom. We were retiring, nevertheless, RE INFECTÂ, from these tropical
+regions, and I was impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to
+resume my explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a
+wild carrot, tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it,
+from the effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea
+already mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt
+whatever, that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The
+GEIJERA PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour
+of its long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII, in the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood
+was remarkable from a perfume like roses.
+
+<p>22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked
+and sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
+miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
+earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp
+LVIII., and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of
+good grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 69°; at 4 p.m., 72°; at
+9, 43°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the
+westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it.
+We thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
+berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
+to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
+was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
+rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
+rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow.
+We encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a
+spot where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being
+very bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon
+alter the case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
+splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
+seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
+be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
+exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
+was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
+spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb,
+41°.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-20"></a><img alt="" src="trop-20.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?)</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
+horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
+eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former track; and
+in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above the letters
+N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line of Capricorn. I
+left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret; the weather had
+favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant. The three
+last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on these
+mornings at 25°, 28°, and 29°, respectively. Many interesting trees and
+shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able to
+gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII., along
+our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23° 31' 36" S.; and there again
+set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of tropical
+Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass near our
+route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones. These being
+of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the table, GEOPHAPS
+SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible to bring them up,
+and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood. This bird seemed to
+have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and flew more clumsily
+than others. It had three streaks of white about the head, assimilating it to
+the poultry class; and in building on the ground, it afforded another
+indication of its resemblance to our domestic birds. The flesh is very
+white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the most delicate of all birds.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 46°;
+--with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+<p>25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very
+crooked from following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I
+set out on the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a
+straight line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open
+ground. The blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees,
+were welcome to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded
+me of the Persian proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the
+eyes." We encamped a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better
+grass than we had left formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted
+of gravel; and amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it
+consisted, I found basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been
+detected by me amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 77°; at 9, 52°;
+--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
+shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.;
+which spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary;
+but I could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily
+journies short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges.
+One of the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but
+Yuranigh, by chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The
+thermometer had been as low as 38°; but the birds had been kept in a box
+well covered with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of
+this camp, I found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having
+been first seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 37°; at noon, 80°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb,
+40°.
+
+<p>27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
+along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
+right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view of
+the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
+firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
+hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
+I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
+elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
+
+<p>I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
+on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward the
+east, at an angle of about 25° with the horizon; on which side those
+slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they
+presented abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides,
+forming an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on
+the east side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay
+our former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
+eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
+camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was
+found in a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed
+of the main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the
+water before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 41°; at noon, 79; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb 39°.
+
+<p>28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the
+plain: a fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due
+southward over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until
+we crossed, for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray.
+Just beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
+LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although
+the pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a
+good supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a
+little dog of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it
+known to us. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 76°;
+at 9, 49°;--with wet bulb, 41°.
+
+<p>29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
+basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
+which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
+thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
+quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
+Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its course,
+with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries apparently larger
+than itself. All these lapsed into the same concatenated line of ponds; at
+one place, spreading amidst brigalow scrub, at another, forming one
+well-defined deep channel. For the formation of ponds, and the retention
+of water, in so dry a climate, we see here something between the
+ordinary character of rivers, and artificial works which man must
+construct, when population may spread into these regions. The fallen
+timber of the brigalow decays very slowly, and is not liable to be burnt,
+like most other dead wood in open forests, because no grass grows
+amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The accumulations of dead logs
+become clogged with river rack and the deposit of floods; to which
+floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the waters into new
+channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds, and completing
+the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams and
+reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water for a
+longer time than any single river channel could retain, however sluggish
+its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual drought, we had
+found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 3½ degrees of
+latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to wheel
+carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very
+favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along
+this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience has
+taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as
+closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus,
+open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond
+which nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go
+forward in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again
+encamped under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting
+portion of white rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it;
+and that the avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the
+mountain with white fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered
+ravine below, a curious new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 82°; at 9, 56°;
+--with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+<p>[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissimâ subcanescens,
+foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
+depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA
+Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
+plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
+
+<p>30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
+sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward,
+and goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings
+before the arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them
+to a spot where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite
+to camp LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the
+plains, than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found
+so difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
+accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
+eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
+towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
+direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
+the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
+covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once
+more saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with
+Yuranigh's able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed
+in conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
+range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
+the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
+(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
+DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
+ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil we
+saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
+leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
+MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found
+also a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
+59°; at noon, 83°; at 4 p.m., 81°; at 9, 62°; with wet bulb, 54°.
+
+<p>[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
+sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
+primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari subgeminis
+calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine glaberrimo.
+--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily distinguished,
+besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the veins of the leaves,
+which diverge from the midrib at a very acute instead of a right angle.]
+
+<p>[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis, foliis
+subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello calyce
+paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carinâ multo
+brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be
+seen in an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
+
+<p>31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
+morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
+gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
+ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
+we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up to
+its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
+drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
+slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
+and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
+gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
+ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
+CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
+a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
+grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
+strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
+been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
+TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly of
+thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
+appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just
+forming its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
+MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about
+four feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet
+high, with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the
+beautiful TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite
+flowers.
+
+<p>[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
+sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
+fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
+integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
+superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
+remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
+flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and
+stamens. The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a
+very strong smell of thyme.]
+
+<p>There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
+entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
+eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
+valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
+to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
+grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
+from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs,
+about ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
+
+<p>1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25°. All
+prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
+was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded
+us at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
+clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar
+country, large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing
+above the placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a
+range to us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no
+stranger could have supposed these features to have been only the
+highest parts of such a broken sandstone country as that from which we
+had just emerged. The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they
+were nowhere level but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in
+white streaks high above us, when we first perceived them through the
+scrubs. These downs consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on
+which grew luxuriantly, ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the
+surface in general was loose, resembling that of a field after it had lain
+long in fallow. Herbs in great variety were just emerging from the
+recently watered earth, and the splendid morning did ample justice to the
+vernal scene. The charm of a beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and
+the songs of many birds sounded like the orchestral music before the
+commencement of any theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a
+place, was quite incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost
+boundless extent of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that
+of China, yet still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve,
+provided by nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and
+industry might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
+population.
+
+<p>These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
+contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
+of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
+component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
+beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
+above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
+and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
+wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire.
+The ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a
+salsolaceous soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no
+geologist has yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have
+produced that rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly
+grew; or these wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red
+sandstone formation. One has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;"
+but this phrase admits of no easy application to such cases as
+these. Fragments of a ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles,
+apparently identical with those in the basin of the Darling, in some places
+accompany these angular fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a
+new ERIOSTEMON allied to E. BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy
+leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA
+RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS
+SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical on trees. We encamped on the
+margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX, and about a mile distant from
+it, our draught oxen being very weak and leg-weary. Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 25°; at noon, 67°; at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
+obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus unifloris
+tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
+
+<p>[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
+subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
+involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
+
+<p>2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly
+mentioned. We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then
+made, had been much damaged by a flood. The little river was still
+running, and it was cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its
+sources, beyond which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in
+repairing our bridge, so that all things were got across safely. We
+ascended the undulating downs along our old track, and where many
+curious specimens of trees in flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I
+observed that no entire sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing
+to have been compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one.
+Yuranigh brought me one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris),
+which so far confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the
+coniferous character of Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance
+of other specimens, I am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of
+that description. I left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that
+the direct route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was
+rather at a loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the
+name of Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
+Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
+subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
+therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
+About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which
+had been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
+exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is to
+be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or sources
+are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and usually bare
+of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 p.m., 78°;
+at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
+
+<p>3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest
+hour." The thermometer 31° at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of
+the magpie or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and
+the rich browns and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with
+its dense grey shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in
+the same state as when we left it. No flood had come down the channel
+of that river. The tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the
+old route, and bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is
+remarkable that in no case had they injured or defaced the letters and
+numerals marked on trees at the various camps, nor disturbed our
+temporary bridges. We cut our way through a scrub of brigalow, thus
+passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and XLVI., encamping at a short
+distance from the latter of these places. Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at
+noon, 74°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 52°; with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the
+lake, had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a
+green crop was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our
+cattle. Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this
+day, proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to
+be left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
+river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before they
+had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
+the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on
+seeing us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
+judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
+with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
+had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
+curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
+instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian natives
+towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some of the
+uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
+behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
+themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
+stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
+them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
+trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
+make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
+still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
+crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on
+seeing us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions
+before us, and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great
+blaze there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody
+range beyond Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued
+until evening; thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous
+sunset, which poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky
+pinnacles, as I sat drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles
+northward of XLV. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 67°; at 4
+p.m., 65°; at 9, 39°;--with wet bulb, 32°.
+
+<p>5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a
+more elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy
+clouds of cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the
+last effort of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be
+driven much farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where
+this could be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged
+to cross. We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which
+well deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke,
+were seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
+yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
+position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
+which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight,
+and the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
+encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
+excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
+spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
+formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the
+purple-flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the
+pink-flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
+forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
+handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here
+first appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
+small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
+LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the foot
+of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with yellow
+black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree fifteen
+or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of ALL.
+CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high, proved
+to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A. CUNNINGHAMII,
+but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of flowers, and
+everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***] Thermometer, at
+sunrise, 33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 40°;--with wet bulb,
+31°.
+
+<p>[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis, foliolis
+glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus, pedunculis
+solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis triangularibus
+glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
+
+<p>[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
+aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
+acutis persistentibus.]
+
+<p>[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
+elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
+subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus, spicis
+elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo breviore,
+ovario villoso.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-21"></a><img alt="" src="trop-21.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>The River Salvator, 5th Sept.</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter07"></a>
+<h4>Chapter VII.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
+STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--PASSAGE
+TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER NIVE.--ITS
+COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE VICTORIA
+DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO VARIOUS
+CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE RIVER
+ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST POINT OF
+THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM THE
+SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--ASCEND
+WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE PYRAMIDS.--NEW
+PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.</blockquote>
+
+<p>6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the
+horses for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all
+being leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during
+these two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of
+scenery within a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been
+assiduously burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This
+rendered the spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young
+grass was highly relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass
+remained to be set fire to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part
+of the natives, is usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 64°; at 9, 40°;--with wet bulb, 31°.
+
+<p>8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in
+writing a despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed
+account of my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that
+in the event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now
+to accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to
+leave it at this depôt camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us,
+and a fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our
+intended ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky
+continued overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in
+sufficient quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to
+produce dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the
+8th, 53°; at noon, 55°; at 4 p.m., 57°; at 9, 50°;--with wet bulb, 46°;
+and at sunrise of the 9th, 39°; at noon, 77°; at 4 p.m., 70°; at 9, 52°;
+--with wet bulb, 45°.
+
+<p>10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
+Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant,
+false horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley,
+along our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W.,
+following up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This
+valley led very straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three
+volcanic cones, which I had already intersected from various points. The
+other two I had named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three
+hills formed an obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to
+the north-west, and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land
+might be found to form an angle somewhat corresponding with the
+directions of the two shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to
+the westward of such an angle in the range, I might find what had been
+so long the object of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria. We reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my
+former observations as far as could be ascertained by the mode of
+measurement I employed then; which was by counting my horse's paces.
+On ascending the mountain on foot, I found a deep chasm still between
+me and the western summit, which was not only the highest, but the only
+part clear of bushes. A thick and very thorny scrub had already so
+impeded my ascent, that the best portion of the afternoon was gone,
+before I could return to the horses; and I resolved, therefore, to continue
+my ride, and to defer the ascent and observation of angles from the
+summit, until my return from the unknown western country, which we
+were about to explore; the search for water that night being an object of
+too much importance to be longer deferred. We, accordingly, passed on
+by the southward and westward of the mountain, following a watercourse,
+which led first N. W., then north, and next E. of N.; to where it at
+length joined one from the west, up which I turned, and continued the
+search for water until darkness obliged us to halt. During that search for
+water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so concealed and covered
+with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared from those following;
+and yet, strange to say, without either of us being in the least hurt. We
+encamped where there was, at least, good grass; but--no water.
+
+<p>11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept,
+we found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well
+known to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after
+long custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we
+had breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
+supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
+some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
+We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
+perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
+rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
+feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were
+all visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The
+connections extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at
+the head of the Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these
+I was careful to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was
+higher than it, and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at
+its lowest part, which bore 26° W. of S., was our next object. We found
+the range covered with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs.
+On the crest, the rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade
+thermometer stood, at noon, at 30° 5' equal to 87°, of Fahrenheit; the
+height above the sea we made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we
+encountered a scrub of matted vines, which hung down like ropes, and
+pulled some of us off our horses, when it happened that any of these
+ropes were not observed in time in riding through the thicket. A very
+dense forest of young Callitris trees next impeded us, and were more
+formidable than even the vines. The day was passed in forcing our way
+through these various scrubs, the ground declining by a gentle slope
+only. We next found firmer soil underfoot, that where the Callitris scrub
+grew having been sandy, and we saw at length, with a feeling of relief,
+that only brigalow scrub was before us; we ascended gravelly hills, came
+upon a dry water-course, and then on a chain of ponds. Near one of these
+ponds, sate an old woman, beside a fire, of course, although the weather
+was very warm; and a large net, used for taking emus, hung on a
+brigalow bush close by. The men were absent, looking for food, as we
+partly conjectured, for little could Yuranigh make out of what she said,
+besides the names of some rivers, to which I could point with the hand. I
+was surprised to find that here, the name for water was "Narran," the
+name for it in the district of the Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the
+word for water amongst the tribes of the Darling is Kalli. That the
+"Narran" river and swamp are named from this language of tribes now
+dwelling much further northward, seems obvious; and, as the natives on
+the Darling know little of the "Narran" or its swamp, it may be inferred
+that there the migration of native tribes has been progressive from south
+to north; the highest known land in Australia being also to the southward
+of the Darling. The chain of ponds, according to the old woman, was
+named "Cùnno," and ran into the "Warreg" which, as she pointed, was
+evidently the name of the river we had formerly traced downwards from
+near Mount P. P. King. I left the "Cùnno," and plunged into the brigalow
+to the northward, thus crossing a slightly elevated range, where we found
+a little water-course falling N.N.W. By following this downwards, we
+found water in it, as twilight grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for
+the night, in latitude 25° S.
+
+<p>[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
+
+<p>12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the thermometer was 59°; our height
+then above the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet.
+Continuing to follow down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a
+chain of ponds running N.E., and these we traced in the contrary
+direction, or upwards, as far as seemed desirable. We struck off from that
+water-course, first to the N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep
+low ridge of clay ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We
+crossed that low ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half
+beyond, met another acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also
+ascended, and found upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree
+having hard spiky dry branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to
+receive the charge of ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which
+formidable array we nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived
+at the head of a rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we
+attempted in vain to pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga,"
+until, seeing a flat on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the
+water-course again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction,
+and contained some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river,
+whose banks were thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course
+of this river was W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N.,
+and at the junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we
+watered our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills,
+three quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24° 52'
+50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge
+we crossed, was 84°; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3
+p.m., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89°; the
+height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
+
+<p>13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the thermometer stood at 38°; the height
+above the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river
+would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
+conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
+commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name;
+and, to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle.
+Pursuing the united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy
+plains. The air was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up,
+especially where the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were
+MORGANIA GLABRA; EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM
+with the aspect of a TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a
+new scabrous HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning
+by the natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry
+warm weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as
+an emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly
+imprinted with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the
+natives to attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the
+aversion of the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle:
+people who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they
+have thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted
+with their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
+these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old men
+and women!
+
+<p>[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
+margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
+patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida, foliis
+oblongis planis longè ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis pentameris,
+calycibus patentim hispidis.]
+
+<p>[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris, foliis
+alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis, floribus
+distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis, fructu
+subgloboso.]
+
+<p>The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
+it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
+After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
+bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were
+obliged to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and
+laborious day. Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite
+puzzled Yuranigh, for we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and
+tracts they had set fire to, where trees still lay smoking.
+
+<p>14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72° of
+Fahrenheit; the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently
+determined by Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid
+down my survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have
+turned towards the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct
+northerly course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank,
+whence I had seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a
+brigalow range. After a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand
+curve in the river's course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found
+water near the spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined,
+and near which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank
+covered with brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding
+traces of a recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at
+less than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL--I mean not
+crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and
+refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs, a
+beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal
+spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a
+wash and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one
+sentiment of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water.
+Like "a giant refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the
+north-west, and passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very
+gradually, during a ride of three miles, to where I at length could
+discover that the fall was in the other direction. At this point, I observed
+the barometer, which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet.
+Fahrenheit's thermometer stood then (5 p.m.) at 86°. The dry channel of
+a water-course had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had
+also guided us to the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the
+feet of three men in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives
+whose track Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were
+now going in the same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the
+smell of their burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning
+embers which had dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was
+flat, and on it the rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky
+gap (in a ridge) was still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set,
+and not a blade of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what
+was all this to the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With
+eager steps we followed a slight channel downwards; found that it
+descended more rapidly than the one by which we had ascended; that it
+also increased, and we were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with
+young grass, while yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected
+from several broad ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot,
+so opportunely and unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy
+flat by the margin of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group
+of bushes for shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with
+very heavy clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain.
+
+<p>15TH SEPTEMBER.--As soon as daylight appeared I hastened towards
+the gap, and ascended a naked rock on the west side of it. I there beheld
+downs and plains extending westward beyond the reach of vision,
+bounded on the S. W. by woods and low ranges, and on the N. E. by
+higher ranges; the whole of these open downs declining to the N. W., in
+which direction a line of trees marked the course of a river traceable to
+the remotest verge of the horizon. There I found then, at last, the
+realization of my long cherished hopes, an interior river falling to the N.
+W. in the heart of an open country extending also in that direction.
+Ulloa's delight at the first view of the Pacific could not have surpassed
+mine on this occasion, nor could the fervour with which he was
+impressed at the moment have exceeded my sense of gratitude, for being
+allowed to make such a discovery. From that rock, the scene was so
+extensive as to leave no room for doubt as to the course of the river,
+which, thus and there revealed to me alone, seemed like a reward direct
+from Heaven for perseverance, and as a compensation for the many
+sacrifices I had made, in order to solve the question as to the interior
+rivers of Tropical Australia. To an European, the prospect of an open
+country has a double charm in regions for the most part covered with
+primaeval forests, calling up pleasing reminiscences of the past, brighter
+prospects for the future--inspiring a sense of freedom, especially when
+viewed from the back of a good horse:--
+
+<p>"A steed! a steed! of matchless speede,
+A sword of metal keene--
+All else to noble minds is drosse,
+All else on earth is meane!"   --OLD SONG.
+
+<p>I hastened back to my little party (distant a mile and a half from the
+gap), and immediately made them mount to follow me down the watercourse,
+which, as I had seen from the rock, would lead us into the open
+country. The little chain of ponds led westward, until the boundless
+downs appeared through the woods; a scene most refreshing to us, on
+emerging from so many thick scrubs. Our little river, after crossing much
+open plain, fell into another coming from E.S.E., and columns of smoke
+far in the N.W. showed that there was water, by showing there were
+inhabitants. The grass on these downs was of the richest sort, chiefly
+PANICUM LOEVINODE, and I was not sorry to recognise amongst it,
+SALSOLOE, and the ACACIA PENDULA, amongst the shrubs. As we followed
+the river downwards, the open downs appeared on the W.N.W. horizon
+as if interminable. This river, unlike that I had called the Nive, had no
+sand in its bed, which consisted of firm clay, and contained deep
+hollows, and the beds of long reaches, then, however, all dry, while
+abundance of large UNIO shells lay upon the banks, and proved that the
+drought was not of common occurrence. The general course of the river I
+found to be about W.N.W. true. We continued to follow it through its
+windings all day, which I certainly should not have done, but for the sake
+of water, as our progress downwards was thus much retarded. Towards
+evening, Corporal Graham discovered water in a small tributary coming
+from the S.E., while Yuranigh found some also in the main channel,
+where that tributary fell into it. We encamped on Graham's ponds, as this
+was called, and turned our horses loose on the wide plain, up to the knees
+in grass half dry, half green, that they might be the more fit "for the field
+to-morrow." The sky had been lowering all day, and the heat was
+intense; but during the night, the air was delicious for sleeping in, under
+heaven's canopy and protection.
+
+<p>16TH SEPTEMBER.--The "gorgeous curtains of the East" over grandly
+formed clouds harmonised well with my sentiments on awaking, again to
+trace, as if I had been the earliest man, the various features of these fine
+regions of earth. At 7 a.m. the temperature was 63°; and (from
+observations registered then) the height above the sea has been found to
+be 1216 feet. Throughout the day we travelled over fine downs and
+plains covered with the finest grass, having the river on our right.
+Beyond it, we saw hills, which seemed to be of greater height in
+proportion as we descended with the river. Some were much broken, and
+appeared to present precipices on the other side. A broad valley extended
+westward from between the farthest of these broken ranges, which range
+seemed to be an offshoot from one further eastward. On examining the
+river, below the supposed junction of a tributary from the east, I found its
+character altered, forming ponds amongst brigalow trees. Water was,
+however, scarce. We fortunately watered our horses about 3 p.m., at the
+only hole we had seen that day, a small muddy puddle. The ACACIA
+PENDULA formed a belt outside the brigalow, between the river and the
+open plains, and many birds and plants reminded us of the Darling; the
+rose cockatoo and crested-pigeon, amongst the former; SALSOLOE and
+SOLANUM amongst the latter. At length, we saw before us, to the
+westward, bold precipitous hills, extending also to the southward of west.
+A thunder storm came over us, and night advancing, we halted without
+seeing more, for that day, of the interesting country before us, and having
+only water enough for our own use, the product of the shower. No pond
+was found for the horses, although we had searched for one, many miles
+in the bed of the river. Still, the remains of mussel shells on the banks
+bore testimony that water was seldom so scarce in this river, flowing as it
+did through the finest and most extensive pastoral region I had ever seen.
+
+<p>17TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at seven this morning was 57°;
+our height above the sea 1112 feet. "Like the gay birds that" awoke us
+from "repose" we were "content," but certainly not "careless of
+tomorrow's fare;" for unless we found water to-day, "to-morrow" had
+found us unable either to proceed or return! Trusting wholly to
+Providence, however, we went forward, and found a pond in the river
+bed, not distant more than two miles from where we had slept. In making
+a cut next through a brigalow scrub, towards where I hoped to hit the
+river, in a nearly westerly direction, I came out upon open downs, and
+turned again into a brigalow scrub on my right. After travelling a good
+many miles, N.W., through this scrub, we arrived on the verge of a plain
+of dead brigalow; and still pursuing the same course, we came out, at
+length, upon open downs extending far to the northward. I continued to
+ride in that direction to a clear hill, and from it I obtained a view of a
+range of flat-topped hills, that seemed to extend W.N.W.; the most
+westerly portion of these being the steep-sided mass seen before us
+yesterday. They now lay far to the northward, and the intervening
+country was partly low and woody, and partly consisted of the downs we
+were upon. But where was the river? Yarra trees and other indications of
+one appeared nearest to us in an easterly direction, at the foot of some
+well-formed hollows on that side the downs. Towards that point I
+therefore shaped my course, and there found the river--no longer a
+chain of dry ponds in brigalow scrub, but a channel shaded by lofty yarra
+trees, with open grassy banks, and containing long reaches full of water.
+White cockatoos shrieked above us; ducks floated, or flew about, and
+columns of smoke began to ascend from the woods before us. This was
+now, indeed, a river, and I lost no time in following it downwards. The
+direction was west; then north-west, tolerably straight. Water was
+abundant in its bed; the breadth was considerable, and the channel was
+well-marked by bold lofty banks. I remarked the salt-bush of the Bogan
+plains, growing here, on sand-islands of this river. The grass surpassed
+any I had ever seen in the colony in quality and abundance. The slow
+flying pelican appeared over our heads, and we came to a long broad
+reach covered with ducks, where the channel had all the appearance of a
+river of the first magnitude. The old mussle shells (UNIO) lay in heaps,
+like cart-loads, all along the banks, but still we saw none of the natives.
+Flames, however, arose from the woods beyond the opposite bank, at
+once in many directions, as if by magic, as we advanced. At 3 p.m.
+Fahrenheit's thermometer in the shade stood at 90°. Towards evening, we
+saw part of the bed dry, and found it continuously so, as night came on.
+The sun had set, while I still anxiously explored the dry recesses of the
+channel in search of water, without much hopes of success, when a wild
+yell arose from the woods back from the channel, which assured us that
+water was near. Towards that quarter we turned, and Yuranigh soon
+found a fine pond in a small ana-branch, upon which we immediately
+halted, and took up our abode there for the night. It may seem strange
+that so small a number could act thus unmolested by the native tribes, but
+our safety consisted chiefly in the rapidity of our movements, and their
+terror of strangers wholly unknown, perhaps unheard of, arriving on the
+backs of huge animals, or centaurs whose tramp they had only heard at
+nightfall. Like Burns's "Auld Nick,"</p>
+
+<blockquote>----"rustling through the boortrees comin'<br>
+   Wi' eerie sought!"</blockquote>
+
+<p>our passage was too rapid to admit of any design for attack or
+annoyance being concocted, much less, carried into effect; next night we
+hoped to sleep thirty miles off, where our coming would be equally
+unexpected by natives. Latitude, 24° 34' 30" S.
+
+<p>18TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the temperature of the air was 72°; the
+height of the spot above the sea, 995 feet. Keeping along the river bank
+for some miles, I found its general course to be about N.W.; and seeing
+clear downs beyond the right bank, I crossed, and proceeded towards the
+highest clear hill on the horizon. There I obtained a distant view of the
+ranges intersected yesterday, and of their prolongations. That to the
+northward of the river, whose general direction to the point already fixed
+had been 22° W. of N., there formed an angle, and continued, as far as I
+could judge by the eye, nearly northward. The range to the southward of
+the river also turned off, extending nearly to the southward. These two
+limits of the vast valley, thus receding from the river so as to leave it
+ample room to turn and wind on either side, amidst its accompanying
+woods, through grassy downs of great extent, obliged me to explore its
+course with closer attention. From another clear hill on these downs, to
+which I next proceeded, I thought I perceived the line of another river
+coming from ranges in the N.E., and expecting it would join that whose
+course we had thus far explored, I proceeded in a nearly N.W. direction
+over open downs towards the line of trees. I found therein a fine pond of
+water, the soil of the downs consisting of stiff clay. MESEMBRYANTHEMUM
+and various SALSOLOE appeared in some parts. My horses being rather
+jaded, I halted rather early here, and laid down my journey, protracting
+also the angles I had observed of the points of distant ranges. Latitude,
+24° 27' 27" S. I found by the barometer that we were already much lower
+than the rivers Salvator and Claude, and the upper part, at least, of the
+Belyando; while we were still remote from the channel we were
+pursuing.
+
+<p>19TH SEPTEMBER.--The thermometer at 7 a.m. stood at 57°. The
+height of these ponds above the sea was 861 feet. Young, I think, has
+said, that a situation might be imagined between earth and heaven, where
+a man should hear nothing but the thoughts of the Almighty; but such a
+sublime position seems almost attained by him who is the first permitted
+to traverse extensive portions of earth, as yet unoccupied by man; to
+witness in solitude and silence regions well adapted to his use, brings a
+man into more immediate converse with the Author both of his being,
+and of all other combinations of matter than any other imaginable
+position he can attain. With nothing but nature around him; his few
+wants supplied almost miraculously; living on from day to day, just as he
+falls in with water; his existence is felt to be in the hands of Providence
+alone; and this feeling pervades even the minds of the least susceptible,
+in journeys like these. Those splendid plains where, without a horse, man
+seems a helpless animal, are avoided, and are said to be shunned and
+disliked by the aboriginal man of the woods. Even their lonely
+inhabitant, the emu, seems to need both wings and feet, that he may
+venture across them. We travelled nearly west over plains; then through a
+brigalow scrub, two miles in breadth; emerging from which, on a
+perfectly level plain of very rich soil, we turned rather to the southward
+of west, to where the distant line of river-trees seemed most accessible.
+Bushes of ACACIA PENDULA skirted this plain; and, passing through them,
+we crossed a track of nearly half a mile wide of soft sand, evidently a
+concomitant feature of the river. We next traversed a belt of firm blue
+clay, on which a salsolaceous bush appeared to be the chief vegetation;
+and, between it and the river, was another belt of sand a mile broad, on
+which grew a scrub of rosewood acacia. The river there ran in four
+separate channels, amongst various trees; brigalow and yarra being both
+amongst them. I crossed these channels, and continued westward that I
+might ascend a hill on the downs beyond. From that eminence, no hill
+was visible on any part of the horizon, which everywhere presented only
+downs and woods. Far in the S.W. a hollow admitted of a very distant
+view, which terminated in downs beyond a woody valley. The course of
+our river appeared to be N.W., as seen by Yuranigh, from a tree we
+found here. In that direction I therefore proceeded; recrossing the river,
+where, in a general breadth of about 400 yards, it formed five channels.
+The grass was more verdant here, and the ponds in these small separate
+channels seemed likely to contain water. We continued N. W. across fine
+clear downs, where we found the heat so intense, (Centigrade
+thermometer, 37°, or 99° of Fahrenheit,) that I halted two hours under the
+shade of a small clump of trees. When we continued our ride in the
+afternoon, three emus that had been feeding on the downs came
+inquisitively forward; curiosity, apparently inspiring them with more
+courage than even the human inhabitants. Unfortunately for these birds,
+our bacon had become so impalatable that a change of diet was very
+desirable, and Graham, therefore, met them half-way on his horse; the
+quadruped inspiring more confidence in the bird. It was curious to
+witness the first meeting of the large indigenous bird and large exotic
+quadruped--such strange objects to each other! on the wide plains
+where either of them could</p>
+
+<blockquote>----"overtake the south wind."</blockquote>
+
+<p>One of the emus was easily shot from the horse's side, and, that
+evening being the Saturday night of a very laborious week, we were not
+slow in seeking out a shady spot by the side of a pond in the river bed.
+There my men had a feast, with the exception of Yuranigh; who,
+although unable to eat our salt bacon, religiously abstained from eating
+emu flesh, although he skinned the bird and cut it up, SECUNDUM ARTEM,
+for the use of the white men. The channel of the river was still divided
+here, amongst brigalow bushes. We only reached it by twilight.
+Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 86°. Height above the sea, 758 feet.
+
+<p>20TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. the thermometer was 78°. Water
+appearing to be more constant now in the river, I ventured to pursue its
+general course in straighter lines, across the fine open downs, which lay
+to the eastward of it. Beyond these I perceived lines of wood as
+belonging to another river; and, on advancing in that direction, I first
+encountered a great breadth of brigalow scrub; next, we entered a
+rosewood scrub, redolent with blossom; then an open forest, in which we
+found the deep well-formed channel of a river coming from the eastward.
+The bottom was rocky, and bore marks of a recent current. This river
+also spread into branches: we crossed three, and then again entered upon
+open downs. Next we crossed a well-defined line of deep ponds, with
+yarra trees, and coming from E.N.E. over the downs; and three miles
+further on, we crossed another coming from N.E., on which, finding a
+good lagoon, I encamped early, that the men might have time to cook for
+themselves some of the emu, and that the horses might also have some
+sufficient rest. Latitude, 24° 12' 42" S. Thermometer, at 1 p.m., 86°.
+Height above the sea, 724 feet.
+
+<p>21ST SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer at 6 a.m., 63°. I found that the
+various tributaries to the river channel had imparted to it a greater
+tendency westward; but we fell in with it again six miles to the westward
+of where we had passed the night. Its character was the same--a
+concatenation of ponds amongst brigalow; but these seemed better filled
+with water, apparently from the more decided slopes and firmer soil of
+the adjacent country. The course next turned considerably to the
+southward of west, while one ana-branch separating from it, ran about
+westward. I found an open plain between these, across which I travelled;
+until, again meeting the southern branch, we crossed it where it seemed
+to turn more to the northward. The day was warm, and I halted two hours
+under the shade of some trees, where I laid down our journey on paper,
+and found we were making great progress towards Carpentaria, across a
+very open country. We were no longer in doubt about finding water,
+although in the heart of Australia, surrounded by an unbroken horizon.
+On proceeding, we passed some large huts near the river, which were
+of a more substantial construction, and also on a better plan than those
+usually set up by the aborigines of the south. A frame like a lean-to roof
+had first been erected; rafters had next been laid upon that; and,
+thereupon thin square portions of bark were laid, like tiles. A fine pond
+of water being near, we there spancelled our horses and lay down for the
+night. At 5 p.m. the thermometer was at 82°. Height above the sea, 707
+feet.
+
+<p>22D SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 58°. This was no sandybedded
+river like others we had discovered. The bed still consisted of
+firm clay, and now the rich vegetation on the banks presented so much
+novelty, that, without the means of carrying an herbarium, I was
+nevertheless tempted to select a bouquet of flowers for Dr. Lindley, and
+carry them amongst my folded maps. The very herbage at this camp was
+curious. One plant supplied an excellent dish of vegetables. There were
+others resembling parsley, and having the taste of water-cresses with
+white turnip-like roots. Here grew also a dwarf or tropical CAPPARIS.
+Among the grasses was a tawny ERIANTHUS, apparently the same as that
+formerly seen on the banks of the Bogan, and the curious DANTHONIA
+PECTINATA, gathered in Australia Felix in 1836. There was also amongst
+the grasses a PAPPOPHORUM, which was perhaps the P. GRACILE, formerly
+collected in the tropical part of New Holland by Dr. Brown; and a very
+remarkable new species of the same curious genus, with an open narrow
+panicle, and little branches not unlike those of a young oat.[*] The river
+again formed a goodly continuous channel. Its most splendid feature, the
+wide open plains, continued along its banks, and I set out on this, as we
+had indeed on all other mornings since we made the discovery, intensely
+interested in the direction of its course. We had not prolonged our
+journey very far across the plains, keeping the trees of the river we had
+left visible on our right, when another line of river trees appeared over
+the downs on our left. Thus it seemed we were between two rivers, with
+their junction before us, for the ground declined in that direction. And so
+we found it. At about seven miles from where we had slept, we arrived at
+the broad channel of the first river we had traced down, whose impetuous
+floods had left the trees half bent to the earth, and clogged with drift
+matter; not on any narrow space, but across a deep section of 400 yards.
+The rocks in the channel were washed quite bare, and crystal water lay in
+ponds amongst these rocks. A high gravelly bank, crowned with
+brigalow, formed the western margin, but no brigalow could withstand
+the impetuous currents, that evidently, at some seasons, swept down
+there. It was quite refreshing to see all clear and green, over so broad a
+water-worn space. The junction with the northern river took place just
+below, and I continued my journey, not a little curious to see what sort of
+a river would be formed by these channels when united. I found the
+direction of the course to be about N.W., both running nearly parallel.
+About three miles on I approached the united channel, and found the
+broad, deep, and placid waters of a river as large as the Murray. Pelican
+and ducks floated upon it, and mussle-shells of extraordinary size lay in
+such quantities, where the natives had been in the habit of eating them, as
+to resemble snow covering the ground. But even that reach seemed
+diminutive when compared with the vast body of water whereof traces
+had, at another season, been left there; these affording evidence that,
+although wide, they had still been impetuous in their course. Verdure
+alone shone now, over the wide extent to which the waters sometimes
+rose. Beyond that channel lay the almost boundless plains, the whole
+together forming the finest region I had ever seen in Australia. Two
+kinds of grass grew on these plains; one of them a brome grass,
+possessing the remarkable property of shooting up green from the old
+stalk.
+
+<p>[* P. AVENACEUM (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 inaequalibus scabris infra medium
+plumosis, paniculâ pilosâ angustâ interruptâ ramulis inferioribus demum
+refractis, spiculis 3-floris, glumis pubescentibus multistriatis, paleis
+villosis, foliis......]
+
+<p>The bees were also new to Yuranigh, who drew my attention to their
+extreme smallness; not much exceeding in size a knat or mosquito.
+Nevertheless, he could cut out their honey from hollow trees, and thus
+occasionally procure for us a pleasant lunch, of a waxy compound, found
+with the honey, which, in appearance and taste much resembled fine
+gingerbread. The honey itself was slightly acid, but clear and fine
+flavoured.
+
+<p>I hoped the deep reach would have been continuous, as it looked
+navigable, even for steamers, but it continued so only for a few miles,
+beyond which the channel contained ponds only. I finally alighted beside
+one of these ponds, which was so large, indeed, that the colonists would
+have called it a lagoon; this one being high above the river channel, on a
+verdant plain. As yet, we had not seen a single inhabitant of this El
+Dorado of Australia. At 2 p.m. thermometer 88°. Height above the sea
+712 feet.
+
+<p>23D SEPTEMBER.--At 7 a.m. thermometer 59°. Latitude 24° 2' S. New
+flowers perfumed the dry bed of this river, and these showed, in their
+forms and structure, that nature even in variety is infinite. I regretted I
+could not collect specimens. Our only care now, was the duration of our
+provisions. Water was less a subject of anxiety with me now, than it had
+been at any period of the journey. We had made the Emu eke out our
+little stock, and my men (two old soldiers) were willing to undergo any
+privation that might enable me to prolong my ride. This day completed
+half the month, but I was determined to follow the course of this
+interesting river at least four days longer. The back of one of our pack
+horses had become so sore, that he would no longer endure a load; we
+threw away the pack saddle, and divided his load, so as to distribute it in
+portions, on some of the saddle horses and the other pack animal. The
+course of the river towards the west, and our limited time, obliged me to
+stride over as much of the general direction as possible. I crossed the
+river, and travelled across open downs. I saw the tops of its Yarra trees
+on my left. At about four miles, we crossed what seemed a large river,
+but which must have been only an ana-branch from the main stream. We
+next traversed a fine open down of six miles; the soil, a firm blue clay
+with gravel, and on this grew two varieties of grass which I had seen
+nowhere else. The valley I next approached, contained the channel of a
+river flowing towards our river; a tributary, which evidently bore
+impetuous floods into it, sometimes. This also ran in three channels. I
+called it the Alice.
+
+<p>As this new river was likely to turn the main stream off to the
+westward or south, I travelled west by compass over vast downs, finely
+variegated with a few loose trees like a park, but extending on all sides to
+the horizon. Where I looked for the main channel, I saw rising ground of
+this kind; and meeting with another small river, with a stoney bed and
+water in it, I bivouacqued, for the day was very hot; the thermometer, at
+3 p.m., 90° in the shade. The pond here was much frequented by
+pigeons, and a new sort of elegant form and plumage, was so numerous
+that five were killed at two shots. The head was jet-black, the neck milkwhite,
+the wings fawn-colour, having lower feathers of purple. I had no
+means of preserving a specimen, but I took a drawing of one.[*] Height
+above the sea here, 826 feet.
+
+<p>[* By which I find it has been named GEOPHAPS HISTRIONIEA.]
+
+<p>24TH SEPTEMBER.--I continued to seek the river across extensive
+downs, in many parts of which dead brigalow stumps remained,
+apparently as if the decay of that species of scrub gave place to open
+ground. I turned now to the S.W., and became anxious to see the river
+again. At length we came upon a creek, which I followed down, first to
+the S.W. and next southerly, until it was time to alight, when we
+established our bivouac by a large lagoon in its bed, in latitude 24° 3' 30"
+S. Thermometer, at 3 p.m. 98°. Height above the sea, 688 feet.
+
+<p>25TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 a.m. the thermometer stood at 73°. We ought
+to have been retrogressive yesterday, according to the time calculated on
+for our stock of provisions; but we could not leave the river without
+tracing it to the furthest accesible point. We still continued, therefore, to
+follow the water-course which had brought us thus far, expecting at
+every turn to find its junction with the river, whose course had obviously
+turned more than usual to the southward. We fell in with a larger
+tributary from the N. W.; after which junction, the tributary took a more
+westerly direction than the minor channel which brought us to it. We
+thus came upon a large lagoon, beside which were the huts of a very
+numerous tribe of natives, who appeared to have been there very
+recently, as some of the fires were still burning. Well beaten paths, and
+large permanent huts, were seen beyond that encampment; and it was
+plain that we had entered the home of a numerous tribe. I should have
+gladly avoided them at that time, had not a sight of the river been
+indispensable, and the course of the creek we were upon, the only certain
+guide to it. Level plains extended along its banks, and I had been
+disappointed by the appearance of lofty Yarra trees, which grew on the
+banks of large lagoons. On approaching one of these, loud shrieks of
+many women and children, and the angry voices of men, apprised me
+that we had, at length, overtaken the tribe; and, unfortunately, had come
+upon them by surprise. "AYA MINYÀ!" was vociferated repeatedly, and
+was understood to mean, "What do you want!" (What seek ye in the land
+of Macgregor!) I steadily adhered to my new plan of tactics towards the
+aborigines, and took not the slightest notice of them, but steadily rode
+forward, according to my compass bearing. On looking back for my men,
+I saw one beckoning me to return. He had observed two natives, with
+spears and clubs, hide themselves behind a bush in the direction in which
+I was advancing. On my halting, they stole away, and, when a little
+further on, I perceived an old white-haired woman before me, on seeing
+whom I turned slightly to one side, that we might not frighten her or
+provoke the tribe. The whole party seemed to have been amusing
+themselves in the water during the noon-day heat, which was excessive;
+and the cool shades around the lagoon looked most luxuriant. Our
+position, on the contrary, was anything but enviable. With jaded horses
+scarcely able to lift a leg, amongst so many natives, whose language was
+incomprehensible, even to Yuranigh. I asked him whether we might not
+come to a parley with them, and see if they could understand him. His
+answer was brief; and, without turning even his head once to look at
+them:--"You go on!" which advice, quite according with my own
+notions, founded on experience, I willingly went on. Even there, in the
+heart of the interior, on a river utterly unheard of by white men, an iron
+tomahawk glittered on high in the hand of a chief, having a very long
+handle to it. The anxious care of the females to carry off their children
+seemed the most agreeable feature in the scene, and they had a mode of
+carrying them on the haunch, which was different from anything I had
+seen. Some had been digging in the mud for worms, others searching for
+freshwater muscles; and if the whole could have been witnessed
+unperceived, such a scene of domestic life amongst the aborigines had
+been worth a little more risk. The strong men assumed a strange attitude,
+which seemed very expressive of surprise; having the right knee bent, the
+left leg forward, the right arm dropping, but grasping clubs; the left arm
+raised, and the fingers spread out. "Aya, aya, minyà!" they continually
+shouted; and well might they ask what we wanted! Hoping they would
+believe us to be Centaurs, and include the two old pack-horses in
+counting our numbers, I had not the slightest desire to let them know us
+more particularly; and so travelled on, glad, at length, to hear their "Aya
+minyàs" grow fainter, and that we were leaving them behind. About five
+miles further south, the perfume from the liliaceous banks of the river
+was the first indication of its vicinity. We found it full 400 yards broad,
+presenting its usual characteristics,--several separate channels and
+ponds of water; there, according to the barometer, the height above the
+sea was only 633 feet; the temperature at 3 p.m., in the shade, 99° of
+Fahrenheit. We watered our horses, crossed, and plunged into the
+brigalow beyond, where I meant to steal a march upon the noisy tribe;
+who, by that time, probably were sending to call in their hunting parties,
+that they might follow our track. Their mode of killing a kangaroo may
+best exemplify their tactics towards strangers; whose path in the same
+manner could be followed by day, and sat down beside at night, to be
+again tracked in the morning, until the object of pursuit could be
+overtaken. The brigalow beyond the river grew on a rising ground of
+sharpedged red gravel, and, from a small opening, I saw the course of the
+river running nearly northward. Here, then, I turned towards the east to
+travel home by ascending the left bank, with the intention to cut off the
+great sweep which the river described, as we had found on tracing it
+down; and, in hopes we should so intercept any tributaries it might
+receive from that side. At dusk, I met with one containing a fine lagoon,
+and near this I fixed my bivouac. Yuranigh most firmly objected to our
+sitting down close by the water, saying we might there be too easily
+speared by the wild natives who were then, probably, on our track; but he
+did not object to my bivouac on the more open plain adjacent, one man
+keeping a good look-out. I called these, Yuranigh's ponds. Latitude, 24°
+19' 2" S.
+
+<p>26TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 a.m. the thermometer stood at 61°. My horse
+was quite leg-weary, and I was very loath to force him on, but one day's
+journey further was indispensable. We traversed open plains and passed
+through patches of brigalow of an open kind of scrub. The surface was
+grassy, but very gravelly; indeed it was, in many places, so devoid of
+mould as to resemble a newly Macadamized road,--the fragments
+being much of that size, and in general of a reddish colour, consisting,
+for the most part, of a red siliceous compound. In a ride of twenty-six
+miles, we saw no country much better, and I was obliged to conclude that
+the left bank was by no means so good as the country on the right, or to
+the northward of the river. We arrived, however, by nightfall, at a goodly
+water-course, in which we providentially found a pond, and encamped;
+resolved there to rest our horses next day, (being Sunday,) and most
+thankful to Him to whom the day was dedicated. Latitude 24° 12' 37" S.
+Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 92°.
+
+<p>27TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 68°. On laying down my
+work on paper, I found we had made a most favourable cut on the way
+homewards, our old bivouac of the 21st inst., being about due east from
+us, and distant not quite fifteen miles; the great tributary from the S.E.
+passing between, upon which we could depend for a supply of water, if it
+should be required.
+
+<p>It would appear that the finer the climate, and the fewer man's wants,
+the more he sinks towards the condition of the lower animals. Where the
+natives had passed the night, no huts, even of bushes, had been set up; a
+few tufts of dry grass only, marked the spot where, beside a small fire,
+each person had sat folded up, like the capital letter N; but with the head
+reclining on the knees, and the whole person resting on the feet and
+thigh-joints, clasped together by the hands grasping each ankle. Their
+occupation during the day was only wallowing in a muddy hole, in no
+respect cleaner than swine. They have no idea of any necessity for
+washing themselves between their birth and the grave, while groping in
+mud for worms, with hands that have always an unpleasant fishy taint
+that clings strangely to whatever they touch. The child of civilization that
+would stain even a shoe or a stocking with one spot of that mud, would
+probably be whipt by the nurse: savage children are not subject to that
+sort of restraint. Whether school discipline may have any thing to do
+with the difference so remarkable between the animal spirits of children
+of civilised parents and those of savages, I shall make no remark; but that
+the buoyancy of spirit and cheerfulness of the youth amongst the savages
+of Australia, seem to render them agreeable companions to the men on
+their hunting excursions, almost as soon as they can run about. If the
+naturalist looks a savage in the mouth, he finds ivory teeth, a clean
+tongue, and sweet breath; but in the mouth of a white specimen of
+similar, or indeed less, age, it is ten to one but he would discover only
+impurity and decay, however clean the shoes and stockings worn, or
+however fine the flour of which his or her food had consisted. What,
+then, is civilization in the economy of the human animal? one is led to
+inquire. A little reflection affords a satisfactory answer. Cultivated man
+despises the perishable substance, and pursues the immortal shadow.
+Animal gratification is transient and dull, compared to the acquisition of
+knowledge--the gratification of mind--the raptures of the poet, or the
+delight of the enthusiast, however imaginary. It is true that, amongst
+civilized men, substance is still represented by the yellow ore, and that
+the votaries of beauty "bend in silken slavery;" but are not beauty or gold
+as dust in the balance, substantial though they be, when weighed in lofty
+minds against glory or immortality? When the shadow he pursues is
+worth more, and is more enduring than the substance, well might it be
+said that "Man is but a shadow, and life a dream." Such were my
+reflections on this day of rest, in the heart of a desert, while protected
+from the sun's rays by a blanket, and in some uncertainty how long these
+dreams under it would continue undisturbed.
+
+<p>"The mind is its own place, and in itself
+Can make a heaven of hell: a hell of heaven!"
+
+<p>Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 90°.
+
+<p>28TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 63°. The horses were
+much refreshed by that day's repose, and we this morning continued our
+journey in an easterly direction, over downs and through open scrubs,
+meeting no impediment from brigalow. We crossed the various branches
+of a considerable tributary coming from E.S.E., the only water seen this
+day, besides the great river; which we met with, exactly where, according
+to its general course, it was to be looked for. We crossed it, and
+encamped on the right bank of the northern river, at the place where I had
+previously crossed.
+
+<p>This day I had discovered, from the highest parts of the downs, a range
+to the S. W., and was able to intersect some of the principal hills, and so
+determine its place and direction. I named the most westerly feature,
+Mount Gray; the lofty central mass, the Gowen Range, and a bold
+summit forming the eastern portion, Mount Koenig. I had now obtained
+data sufficient to enable me to determine the extent of the lower basin of
+the river, by laying down the position and direction of the nearest ranges.
+The last-mentioned appeared flat-topped, and presented yellow cliffs like
+sandstone. At 6 p.m., the temperature was 81°.
+
+<p>29TH SEPTEMBER.--At 6 a.m., the thermometer was 59°. Re-crossing
+the river, I travelled, in a straight line, towards my camp of 19th
+September: thus, performing in one, the journeys of two former days. We
+crossed the main channel we had previously traced down, thus
+identifying it. The country was, in general, open; the downs well covered
+with grass, and redolent with the rich perfume of lilies and strange
+flowers, which grew all over them amongst the grass. We arrived at the
+spot I sought, and there encamped. Our provisions were nearly out; the
+sun having reduced the men's sugar, and melted the bacon, which had
+been boiled before we set out. This was an unfortunate blunder. Bacon,
+in such warm weather, should be carried uncooked, and our's might have
+then been very good. The men jocosely remarked, that, although we had
+out-manoeuvred the natives, the weather had been so hot that,
+nevertheless, we could not "save our bacon." Thermometer, at 5 p.m.,
+83°.
+
+<p>30TH SEPTEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 a.m., 67°. I found, by my map,
+that I might very much shorten the homeward route to next camp (that of
+18th September), by travelling towards it in a straight line across the
+downs. We accordingly set out on the bearing of 5½° S. of E., and hit
+the spot exactly at a distance of eighteen miles; arriving early, so as to
+afford some good rest to our horses. We crossed open downs chiefly,
+passed through a narrow belt of brigalow (about a mile wide), and twice
+crossed a tributary to the river, which tributary we thus discovered. The
+water-course on which we had again encamped, arose in open downs of
+fine firm clay, and it was pleasant to see a great river thus supplied by the
+waters collected only amongst the swelling undulations and valleys of
+the country through which it passed, like the rivers of Europe. The river
+we had discovered, seemed, in this respect, essentially different from
+others in Australia, which usually arise in mountains, and appear to be
+rather designed to convey water into regions where it is wanting, than to
+carry off any surplus from the surfaces over which they run.
+
+<p>1ST OCTOBER.--Our track back across the downs, brought again into
+view the Northern range, and I now named the prominent mountain at its
+salient, Mount Northampton, in honour of the noble marquis at the head
+of the Royal Society. The range to the southward also appeared above
+the trees of the valley, and I gave the name of Mount Inniskillen to the
+salient mountain, which appeared so remarkable a feature to us on first
+advancing into that region, from the eastward. We again reached the river
+this day, after traversing the wide plains. Its woods still resounded with
+the plaintive cooing of a dove, which I had not seen elsewhere. At a
+distance, the sound resembled the distant cooy of female natives, and we
+at first took it for their voices until we ascertained whence these notes
+came. I had arrived at a fine reach of the river, and while watering the
+horses, preparatory to leaving its banks, (to make a short cut on our
+former route,) when a pair of these birds appeared on a bough over head,
+so near that I could take a drawing, by which I have since ascertained the
+bird to have been GEOPELIA CUNEATA.
+
+<p>But the river we were about to leave required a name, for no natives
+could be made to understand our questions, even had they been more
+willing than they were to communicate at all. It seemed to me, to deserve
+a great name, being of much importance, as leading from temperate into
+tropical regions, where water was the essential requisite,--a river
+leading to India; the "nacimiento de la especeria," or REGION WHERE SPICES
+GREW: the grand goal, in short, of explorers by sea and land, from
+Columbus downwards. This river seemed to me typical of God's
+providence, in conveying living waters into a dry parched land, and thus
+affording access to open and extensive pastoral regions, likely to be soon
+peopled by civilised inhabitants. It was with sentiments of devotion, zeal,
+and loyalty, that I therefore gave to this river the name of my gracious
+sovereign, Queen Victoria. There seemed to be much novelty in the
+plants along its banks. The shells of the fresh-water mussle (UNIO), which
+lay about the old fires of the natives, exceeded in size any we had seen
+elsewhere. I measured one, and found it six inches long, and three and a
+half broad. On the plains near this spot, grew a beautiful little ACACIA,
+resembling A. PENDULA, but a distinct species, according to Mr. Bentham.[*]
+We crossed the open downs and our former route, hastening to make the
+tributary river before night. We reached the channel by sunset; the moon
+was nearly full, and we continued to search in the bed for water, until we
+again fell in with our former track, near the place where we had watered
+our horses on the morning of the 17th September. On hastening to the
+pond, we found the intense heat of the last twelve days had dried it up,
+and we were obliged to encamp without water; a most unpleasant
+privation after a ride of thirty miles, under an almost vertical sun. The
+river must receive a great addition below this branch from the
+Northampton ranges, entering probably about that great bend we had this
+day cut off; leaving the deep reaches formerly seen there, on our left, or
+to the northward. An uncommon drought had not only dried up the
+waters of this river, but killed much of the brigalow scrub so effectually,
+that the dead trunks alone remained on vast tracts, thus becoming open
+downs.
+
+<p>[* A. VICTORIAE (Benth. MS.) glabra, glauca, ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis
+linearibus subfalcatis obtusis basi angustatis crassis enervibus, glandulâ
+prope basin immersâ, pedunculis glaberrimis gracilibus racemosis
+capitulo parvo 12-20-floro multoties longioribus.]
+
+<p>2D OCTOBER.--At 6 a.m. the thermometer gave a temperature of 59°.
+The height above the sea was 1081 feet. In tracing back our old track, I
+sent Corporal Graham to examine a part of the river channel likely to
+contain water, and the report of his pistol some time after in the woods,
+welcomer than sweetest music to our ears just then, guided us to the spot,
+where he had found a small pond containing enough for all our wants.
+For the men, having no more tea or sugar, a good drink was all that was
+required; the poor fellows prepared my tea not the less assiduously,
+although I could have had but little comfort in drinking it under such
+circumstances, without endeavouring to share what was almost
+indivisible. We this day performed a long journey, reaching our former
+bivouac, of the 16th September, on Graham's creek, at an early hour.
+Three emus were seen feeding close by; but, although several attempts
+were made to get near them, with a horse stalking, we could not kill any
+of them.
+
+<p>3D OCTOBER.--Soon after we had quitted our bivouac, the emus were
+again seen on the plains. I could not deny the men the opportunity thus
+afforded them of obtaining some food; for, although they concealed their
+hunger from me, I knew they were living on bread and water. Graham
+succeeded in wounding one of the birds, which, nevertheless, escaped.
+He then chased a female followed by about a dozen young ones, towards
+us, when we caught three. It had occurred to me this morning, to mark
+and number the bivouacs we had occupied thus far, for the purpose of
+future reference, when any other party might proceed, or be sent again,
+into this country. I had, therefore, cut the number 73 on a tree at this
+bivouac of 3d October, under the initials N.S.W. We pursued a straight
+course over the downs, east by compass, until we joined our old route
+along the water-course, from our camp near the gap, and this brought us
+back, at an early hour to that spot, where I marked a tree with the figures
+72.
+
+<p>4TH OCTOBER.--We recrossed the brigalow range, (where the
+temperature, at 9 a.m., was 79°,) and alighted by the pond at the
+junction of the Nivelle and Nive; near where we had passed the night of
+the 12th September. This day we again saw the CALLITRIS; a tree so
+characteristic of sandy soils, but of which we had not observed a single
+specimen in the extensive country beyond. Marked 71 on a tree.
+
+<p>5TH OCTOBER.--Soon after we left our bivouac, I saw in the grass
+before me, a large snake. This was rather a novelty to us, being almost
+the first we had seen in these northern regions of Australia. I dismounted,
+and went forward to strike it with a piece of wood. Yuranigh did the
+same, both missed it, when it unexpectedly turned upon us, took a
+position on higher ground beside a large tree, then descended with head
+erect, moving nimbly towards the horses, and the rest of the party. The
+deadly reptile glided straight to the forefeet of my horse, touched the
+fetlock with his head, but did not bite; then passed to the hind legs and
+did the same, fortunately the horse stood quietly. The snake darted
+thence towards one of the men, who was about to throw a stick at him,
+and was next in the act of pursuing Yuranigh, when Graham gave him a
+charge of small shot, which crippled his movements until he could be
+despatched. This snake was of a brown colour, red spotted on the belly,
+about six feet long, and five inches in circumference. I had never before
+known any Australian snake to attack a party, but we had certainly
+brought the attack on ourselves. We made a good cut on our former
+circuitous route when tracing down the river Nive, and arrived at our
+former bivouac at an early hour. This was fortunate, as all the ponds,
+formerly full of good water, had, in the interim, dried up; and I
+proceeded to cross the scrubby range, by pursuing a straight direction
+towards Mount Pluto. But some magnetic influence so deranged my
+compass, that, on reaching the crest of the range, I found that mountain
+bore nearly east instead of N. E. N. I saw three of my fixed points,
+however, by which, with my pocket sextant, I could ascertain our true
+position, which proved to be very wide of my intended course. It was,
+like many other accidental frustrations of my plans in this journey, an
+aberration that did us good, for we had thereby avoided the bad scrub
+formerly passed through, and also a rocky part of the range. We next
+descended into a valley in which, after following down a dry watercourse
+two miles, we found a fine pond of water, exactly as the sun was
+setting. This day I had shot a curious bird, somewhat resembling a small
+turkey, in a tree. The feathers were black; the head was bare and red.
+This fowl was apparently of the galinaceous tribe. The flesh was
+delicious, and afforded a most timely dinner to the party. A numerous
+body of natives had followed our former track across the rocky ranges
+we traversed this day, as appeared by their foot-marks, and Yuranigh
+also discovered, in the same manner, that three natives had this morning
+preceded us on our return; nevertheless we saw none of these denizens of
+the woods.
+
+<p>6TH OCTOBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 48°. Height above the sea,
+696 feet. This day we hoped to rejoin the party at the camp of the
+Pyramids; but the journey was long, and it included an ascent of Mount
+Pluto, from which I had still to observe some important angles. I marked
+this bivouac, with 70 cut on a tree, the two last being, respectively
+marked, 71 and 72, as already stated; these numbers continuing the series
+from LXIX, my lowest camp on the Belyando.
+
+<p>The scrub is thick about these volcanic ranges, but on the downs and
+plains of Central Australia, that impediment disappears. My men and
+myself were in rags from passing through these scrubs, and we rejoiced
+at the prospect of rejoining, this day, our countrymen at the Pyramids. I
+found a fine open forest between the ponds where we had formerly
+passed the night, and Mount Pluto; and we crossed several water-courses,
+the grass on their banks being green and young, because the old grass
+had been burnt off by the natives. These water-courses form the highest
+sources of the Salvator. We were at no very considerable elevation above
+the sea where we had slept (696 feet), yet we found the air on the
+mountains much cooler than that of the interior plains. There was much
+Callitris in the woods passed through this day; and the soil, although well
+covered with grass, was sandy. I ascended Mount Pluto by the N. W.
+side, where the loose fragments of trap, on a very steep slope, obstruct
+the growth of a thorny scrub, covering other parts of the mountain sides.
+The view from the summit was very favourable for my purpose, and I
+passed an hour and a half in taking angles on all distant points. Mount
+Owen and Mount Kilsyth were both visible; Buckland's Table-land in the
+East, and some of the recently discovered ranges in the west, were just
+visible across the trap-rock range, which connected Mount Playfair with
+Mount Hutton; which range almost shut out the view to the westward. In
+the S. W., some very remarkable features appeared to terminate
+westward, in abrupt cliffs over a low country, into which the Maran (as
+far as known), the Warrego, and the Nive, seem to carry their waters.
+What that country is, was a most interesting point, which I was very
+reluctant to leave still a mystery. No volcanic hills appeared to the
+westward of this trio, which thus seem to mark the place where the
+upheaving forces have most affected the interior structure of Australia.
+The temperature on Mount Pluto, at noon, was 90°; and the elevation
+above the sea, 2420 feet.
+
+<p>On descending to where I had left the horses, we mounted, and struck
+into the old outward track; but we had difficulty in following it, although
+it was not above a month old. We saw many kangaroos to the eastward
+of Mount Pluto, but could not get a shot at any. I had seen much smoke
+in the direction of our camp, and was anxious about the safety of the
+party left there. We reached it before sunset, and were received with loud
+cheers. All were well, the natives had not come near, the cattle were in
+high condition. Mr. Stephenson had a fine collection of insects, and some
+curious plants. My man Brown had contrived to eke out the provisions so
+as to have enough to take us back to Mr. Kennedy. The grass looked
+green and luxuriant about the camp, and the spot proved a most
+refreshing home both to us and to our jaded horses, on whose backs we
+had almost constantly been for nearly a month. The party had collected
+specimens of XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA; BOSSIOEA CARINALIS; the purple
+INDIGOFERA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES MULTIFLORA; the DODONOEA HIRTELLA of
+Miquel, a hairy shrub with pinnated leaves; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS;
+GOODENIA PULCHELLA Benth.; HIBBERTIA CANESCENS; these had been found
+on the rocky ground near the camp, some on the sides, and even near the
+summits of the pyramids. On the sandy flats at the foot of these hills,
+were gathered, AJUGA AUSTRALIS; DAMPIERA ADPRESSA, a gay, though,
+almost leafless herb, with blue flowers nestling in grey wool; three miles
+below the camp a species of VIGNA, closely allied to V. CAPENSIS Walp.,
+was found; and among the larger forest trees was a Eucalyptus, allied to,
+but probably distinct from, the E. SIDEROXYLON A. Cunn.
+
+<p>The LABICHEA DIGITATA was now in fruit; the JACKSONIA SCOPARIA formed
+a shrub, ten or twelve feet high, occupying sandy places, and having
+much resemblance to the common broom of Europe. The ACACIA
+CUNNINGHAMII grew about the same height; the GREVILLEA LONGISTYLA was
+seen on the sandstone, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high; and there
+also grew the pretty ZIERIA FRAZERI[*]; the DODONOEA MOLLIS was a small
+shrub six feet high, whereof the fruit was now ripe; the LEUCOPOGON
+CUSPIDATUS, also small. A PIMELEA near P. LINIFOLIA formed a shrub, only
+two feet high, growing on the rocks; the HOVEA LANCEOLATA, grew ten feet
+high in similar situations; the LEPTOSPERMUM SERICATUM was still
+abundant on the sandstone rocks, and amongst these also grew the
+POMAX HIRTA, a plant six inches high.
+
+<p>[* Z. FRASERI (Hook. MS.); ramulis junioribus puberulis, foliis impunctatis
+brevissime petiolatis, foliolis lanceolatis acutis marginibus leviter
+revolutis subtus pallidis pubescenti-sericeis, pedunculis trifloris folio
+brevioribus.--Very distinct from all other ZIERIOE. Detected by Fraser
+on Mount Lindsay.]
+
+<p>
+At the base of these mountains, a slight variety of ACACIA VISCIDULA
+formed a bush twelve feet high; a variety of BORONIA BIPINNATA formed a
+small upright shrub, with flowers larger than usual; and much finer
+specimens were now also found, of the white and red flowered BORONIA
+ERIANTHA; the DODONOEA PEDUNCULARIS was loaded with its fruit; the
+SCHIDIOMYRTUS TENELLUS, or a new species nearly allied to it, formed a
+shrub six feet high. A variety of AOTUS MOLLIS, with rather less downy
+leaves and rather smaller calyxes; the ACACIA LONGISPICATA, with its
+silvery leaves and long spikes of yellow blossoms, acquired a stature of
+twelve feet, at the foot of the rocks; and small specimens of the beautiful
+LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR, which we had also observed, in a finer state, near
+Mount Pluto. The LABICHEA DIGITATA was abundant in sheltered ravines
+amongst the rocks; and, also, the DODONOEA ACEROSA, loaded with its
+four-winged reddish fruit, formed a shrub there four feet high.
+On the flats at the base of these ranges, grew the stiff, hard leaved,
+glutinous TRIODIA PUNGENS, with fine erect panicles of purple and green
+flowers (the first occasion this, on which I had seen this plant in flower).
+The BRUNONIA SERICEA continued to appear; also a minute species of
+ALTERNANTHERA. The DIANELLA STRUMOSA formed a coarse, sedgy herbage,
+relieved by its large panicles of blue flowers; and a fine species of
+Dogbane near TABERNOEMONTANA, and probably not distinct from that
+genus, according to Sir William Hooker. A shrub, five feet high, which
+proved to be a new species of ACACIA, also grew at the foot of the
+precipices[*]; a new and very distinct species of LOGANIA[**]; a new
+RUTIDOSIS, a tall herbaceous perennial[***]; a fine, new, long leaved
+GREVILLEA, with yellow flowers.[****] A woolly-leaved KERAUDRENIA, with
+inconspicuous flowers[*****]; and, in the open forest, a pretty species of
+Comesperm, about five feet high, with rosy flowers, and smooth or
+downy stems; it was allied to C. RETUSA.[******]
+
+<p>[* A. UNCIFERA (Benth. MS.) molliter velutino-pubescens, ramulis
+subteretibus, stipulis subulatis caducissimis, phyllodiis falcatoellipticis v.
+oblique oblongis utrinque acutis uncinato-mucronatis minute 1-2-
+glandulosis, racemis polycephalis phyllodio paullo longioribus, capitulis
+multifloris tomentosis.--Near A. CALEYI and A. VESTITA. Phyllodia from
+an inch and a half to two inches long, half an inch broad, resembling
+much in shape those of A. MYRTIFOLIA.]
+
+<p>[** L. CORDIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); herbacea erecta estipulata glabra, foliis
+cordato-acuminatis sessilibus 3-5-nerviis, racemis corymbosis
+axillaribus terminalibusque in paniculam contractam terminalem
+foliosam magis minusve congestis.]
+
+<p>[*** R. ARACHNOIDEA (Hook. MS.); elata, arachnoideo-tomentosa, foliis
+remotis lanceolatis acuminatis calloso-cuspidatis, panicula laxa, ramis
+longis polycephalis, capitulis aggregatis, involucris ovatis.--A widely
+distinct species from the only hitherto described species of this genus (R.
+HELICHRYSOIDES), both in the leaves and flower-heads.]
+
+<p>[**** G. JUNCIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis pubescenti-sericeis, foliis
+rigidis angustissime linearibus elongatis semiteretibus acutis glabris
+marginibus revolutis, racemis ovatis multifloris, pedicellis perianthiisque
+sericeis, ovariis sessilibus longissime albosericeis, stylis glabris,
+folliculis oblique ovatis sericeo-tomentosis.]
+
+<p>[***** K. ? INTEGRIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis oblongo-lanceolatis
+apiculatis subtus pannoso-tomentosis marginibus costa nervisque
+glandulosis.--In this the styles are connected at the apex, free below.
+The capsule is deeply 5-lobed. The anthers are remarkably curved
+outwards, like a horse-shoe, which is not the case in true KERAUDRENIA.
+W. I. H.]
+
+<p>[****** C. SYLVESTRIS (Lindl. MS.); erecta a basi divisa, caulibus pubescentibus
+glabrisve, foliis oblongis mucronatis, racemis corymbosis terminalibus,
+bracteis deciduis, corollae lobo medio integerrimo.]
+
+<p>On the rocky slopes, or crests, were found, also, various new plants
+which have been since described, viz. A small shrub, with leaves from
+three to four inches long, found to be a new species of CONOSPERMUM[*]; a
+small shrubby species of LABICHEA[**]; an inconspicuous shrub, two feet
+high, was a new species of MICRANTHEUM, allied to M. ERICOIDES, Desf.[***]; a
+downy DODONOEA, very near D. PEDUNCULARIS, but with thinner truncated
+leaves, and more glutinous fruit[****]; and, on the edge of the mountain,
+grew a curious new Acacia, resembling a pine tree[*****], but with the stature
+of a shrub, and a GREVILLEA, forming a shrub seven or eight feet high.[*]
+
+<p>[* C. SPHACELATUM (Hook. MS); foliis linearibus subfalcatis sphacelatoapiculatis
+molliter incano-pubescentibus inferne longe attenuatis
+uninerviis paniculis pedunculatis corymbosis, floribus bracteisque
+sericeis.]
+
+<p>[** L. RUPESTRIS (Benth. MS.) glabra vel vix in partibus novellis puberula,
+foliis sessilibus plerisque trifoliolatis, foliolis lineari-oblongis
+spinosomucronatis coriaceis marginatis terminali lateralibus bis pluriesve
+longiore, antheris subaequalibus conformibus.]
+
+<p>[*** M. TRIANDRUM (Hook. MS.); foliis cuneatis solitariis, floribus masculis
+triandris.]
+
+<p>[**** D. PUBESCENS (Lindl. MS.); minutissime pubescens, viscosa,
+foliis brevibus apice triangularibus tridentatis truncatisque, capsulis
+tetrapteris pedunculatis alis rotundatis.]
+
+<p>[***** A. PINIFOLIA (Benth. MS.) glabra ramulis teretibus, phyllodiis erectosubincurvis
+longe lineari-filiformibus nervo utrinque prominenti
+subtetragonis breviter pungenti-mucronatis, pedunculis solitariis
+brevissimis, capitulis multifloris, sepalis spathulatis liberis v. vix basi
+cohaerentibus.--Very near A. PUGIONIFORMIS, but the phyllodia are five,
+six, or more inches long, being longer even than in A. CALAMIFOLIA. It
+differs from the latter species in the inflorescence and calyx.]
+
+<p>[****** G. LONGISTYLA (Hook. MS.); ramis pubescentibus, foliis longissime
+linearibus acutis basi attenuatis margine subrevolutis supra glabris subtus
+albo-tomentosis, racemis oblongo-ovatis, perianthiis glandulosis, ovariis
+semiglobosis stipitatis sericeo-hirsutissimis, stylo longissimo glabro.
+--Leaves a span and more long; flowers rather large, apparently purple.]</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-22"></a><img alt="" src="trop-22.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Lindley's Range</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter08"></a>
+<h4>Chapter VIII.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>SINGULAR FOSSILS NEAR THE CAMP.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--ASCENT
+OF MOUNT FARADAY.--RETURN TO THE WARREGO.--A NATIVE OLD MAN.--PASS BY
+MOUNT OWEN.--THE MARANOÀ.--RECROSS THE MINOR STREAMS.--ITS
+TRIBUTARIES.--NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL.--POSSESSION CREEK.--A HORSE KILLED BY
+ACCIDENT.--APPROACH THE CAMP OF MR. KENNEDY.--FIND ALL WELL THERE.--MANY
+PLANTS FOUND THERE.--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES' VISITS.--RIDE TO MOUNT
+SOWERBY.--FOSSILS FOUND THERE.----THE WHOLE PARTY FINALLY QUITS THE DEPÔT
+CAMP.--TRACE THE MARANÒA DOWNWARDS.--OPEN DOWNS ON ITS BANKS.--WATER
+SCARCE.--REQUISITE PONDS.--REACH ITS JUNCTION WITH THE BALONNE.--TRACES
+OF HORSEMEN ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.--THE PARTY ARRIVES, AND HALTS, AT
+ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--MR. KENNEDY SENT TO RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRY IN A
+DIRECT LINE TOWARDS MOUNT RIDDELL.</blockquote>
+
+<p>
+7TH AND 8TH OCTOBER.--THESE two days were devoted to the
+completion of my maps of the late tour, and of drawings of two of the
+birds seen on the Victoria. Our horses required a day or two's rest, and I
+had enough to do in my tent, although the heat was intense.
+
+<p>9TH OCTOBER.--Once more I rode into the lower country a few miles,
+to take a sketch of another remarkable hill. In the afternoon I examined
+the sandstone caverns in the hill opposite to our camp; some very curious
+organic remains having been found there by one of the party during my
+absence. I found that these occurred on the lower side of sandstone strata,
+and that they had become denuded by the decomposition of sandstone
+underneath. We were to leave this camp next morning. The men were on
+very reduced rations, and I was apprehensive that we might be
+disappointed in our search for water in many places where we had before
+encamped and found it. In the afternoon, the sky became suddenly
+overcast, distant thunder was heard; and the southern portion of the
+heavens, over the country to which we were about to return, was
+evidently discharging some heavy rain there. At twilight, the rain
+commenced to fall heavily at our camp, and continued to do so during
+four hours. Such a supply came most opportunely for us, and, although I
+could not be so vain as to suppose that the thunder rolled only for our
+benefit alone, I felt as thankful as though it had. This day I saw on the
+cavernous hill the woolly ACTINOTUS HELIANTHI, one of the most singular of
+umbelliferous plants; and, on descending to the base, a white variety of
+the COMESPERMA SYLVESTRIS, with smooth branches: unlike the kind
+observed in September, it did not grow above one foot high. A small
+shrub grew on the rocks, a pretty little Calytrix, near C. MICROPHYLLA A
+Cunn. (from Port Essington and Melville Island); but the branches, with
+their leaves, are more stout, and the bracts more obtuse. Sir W. Hooker
+supposes it to be a new species. We here found this day a woolly-leaved
+plant, with long branching panicles of brilliantly blue flowers, which
+Professor de Vriese has ascertained to be a new genus of the natural
+order of Goodeniads, and which he calls LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.[*]
+Thermometer, meter, at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 94°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9,
+64°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>[* LINSCHOTENIA DE VRIESE. Calyx superus, limbo obsoleto. Corollae
+quinquefidae tubo hine fisso, lobis majoribus margine utroque
+auriculato-crispis, alatisve, duobus minoribus lanceolatis, interne
+appendice proprio cuculliformi instructis. Antherae imberbes,
+cohaerentes. Filamenta libera, quandoque subflexuosa. Ovarium
+uniovulatum; stylus inflexus; stigmatis indusium ore nudum; semen in
+nuce solitarium.
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Genus dicatum Jano Huigenio Linschotenio, geographo, navarcho,
+itineratori seculi XVI., qui historiae naturalis, imprimis vero
+geographiae et rei nauticae progressui eximie profuit. Linschotenia
+Dampierae proxime habitu et plurimis cum floris, tum habitus
+characteribus, paracolla cuculliforme ab omnibus Goodeniacearum
+generibus huc usque cognitis, diversa.
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;L. DISCOLOR, suffruticosa, erecta, albo-lineata, foliis alternis,
+petiolatis, oblongis, acutis, integris, planis, superne pallide
+viridibus, glaberrimis, inferne densissime albo-lanatis. Inflorescentia
+spicata, ramosa, griseo-lanata, floribus subsessilibus, basi bracteolatis,
+corollis quinquelobis, lilacinis, extus griseo-barbatis; paracorollis
+nigrescentibus.
+&nbsp;Legit anno 1846, Praefectus militaris nobil. T. L. Mitchell in
+Nova-Hollandia subtropica.
+&nbsp;Planta elegantissima, inter Scaevolas persimilis habitu SC. REINWARDTII
+de Vriese in LEHM. PL. PREISS. videtur esse suffruticosa. Caulis est teres.
+Folia sunt alterna, fere 7 cent. longa et 1½ cent. lata, petiolata,
+petiolo ad insertionem quodammodo crassiore, fere ½ cent. longo,
+integerrima, utrinque acuta, nervo medio crassiore, subtus lanata, fere
+alutacea, albissima; superne viridia, opaca; bracteae lineari-lanceolatae,
+utraque superficie lanatae, acutae; rhachis elongata, fere 10-15 cent.
+longa, inferne albo-lanata, sursum griseo-lanata. Pedunculi communes 5-10 cent.
+longi, patentes, alterni, griseo-tomentosi. Flores alterni, sessiles,
+bracteolati, bracteolis suboppositis; calyces villosi, limbis obsoletis;
+corollae persistentis lobis marginibus inflexis, externe medio calycis instar
+hirsutis, interne glaberrimis: cucullis corollae badiis, convexis, uno latere
+hiantibus, interiori mediaeque loborum parti affixis; filamenta libera,
+filiformia, antherae his continuae, glabrae. Stigma capitatum, indusio imberbe.
+--DE VRIESE.]
+
+<p>10TH OCTOBER.--We commenced our retreat with cattle and horses in
+fine condition, and with water in every crevice of the rocks. That in the
+reedy swamp near the pyramids, had a sulphureous taste, and nausea and
+weak-stomach were complained of by some of the men. I certainly did
+not think the swamp a very desirable neighbour, with the thermometer
+sometimes above 100°, and therefore I was more desirous to retire from
+it. As the party returned along their former track, I went to the summit of
+Mount Faraday, and observed a number of useful angles for my map. Mr.
+Stephenson was with me, and found some new plants and insects, while I
+ascertained the height, by the barometer, to be 2523 feet above the sea.
+The plants growing there were COMMELINA UNDULATA, THYSANOTUS ELATIOR,
+PLECTRANTHUS PARVIFLORUS, the yellow VIGNA LANCEOLATA, with a villous
+form of AJUGA AUSTRALIS, and a little PILOTHECA, with narrow, closepressed
+leaves.[*] The mountain is volcanic, the broken side of the crater
+being towards the N.W. Some compact basalt appeared near the summit.
+On reaching the Warrego in the evening, we found the party had arrived
+there at 3 p.m., the distance travelled comprising two former days'
+journeys. They had also found water close to the camp, where none had
+been when they had been there before. Many beautiful shrubs were now
+beginning to bloom. The BURSARIA INCANA was now covered with its
+panicles of white flowers; the OZOTHAMNUS DIOSMOEFOLIUS, a shrub four
+feet high, was loaded with small bulbs of snow white flowers; a downy
+variety of LOTUS AUSTRALIS, with pink flowers[*], was common on the open
+ground; the ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA was now forming its fruit; in the open
+forest we found a beautiful little GOMPHOLOBIUM[***]; the HAKEA PURPUREA,
+a spiny-leaved, hard shrub, with numerous crimson leaves[****], and the
+EUPHORBIA EREMOPHILA, an inconspicuous species of SPURGE.[*****] Mr.
+Stephenson and I had been so busy collecting these on our way back, that
+we only reached the camp at sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 82; at 9, 62°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>[* P. CILIATA (Hook. MS.); ramulis pilosis, foliis erectis subimbricatis
+linearibus obtusis ciliatis dorso convexis glandulosis superne planis
+nudis, petalis ovali-ellipticis obtusis marginibus extus albopubescentibus.
+--Allied to P. AUSTRALIS, but different in the leaves,
+which are here ciliated at the margin, very glandulous on the back; and in
+the flowers, which are smaller, the petals more obtuse, and having a
+broad, white line of pubescence round the margin at the back.]
+
+<p>[** L. AUSTRALIS var. PUBESCENS, ramis pedunculisque pilis mollibus
+patentibus vestitis. G. B.]
+
+<p>[*** G. FOLIOLOSUM (Benth. MS.) foliis impari-pinnatis, foliolis 15-25
+obovato-truncatis obcordatisve glabris, petiolis ramulisque pilosulis,
+racemis terminalibus subcorymbosis laxis paucifloris. Fruticulus
+ramosissimus foliolis confertis vix lineam longis.]
+
+<p>[**** H. PURPUREA (Hook. MS.) foliis tereti-filiformibus rigidis trifidis
+segmentis simplicibus furcatisve mucronatis glabris, floribus purpureis
+pedicellisque glabris, capsulis obovatis acutis lignosis stipitatis
+subtuberculatis.]
+
+<p>[***** E. EREMOPHILA (All. Cunn. in Hook. Herb.); fruticosa, ramulis fastigiatis
+foliisque parvis linearibus dentato-scrratis glabris, capsulis
+globosotriangularibus laevibus glabris.--Collected by Allan Cunningham
+in Dirk Hartog's island.]
+
+<p>11TH OCTOBER.--Following the chord of the arc described by our
+journeys of 30th June, and 1st July, on tracing down the Warregò, I made
+the furthest of the two camps, by a straight line of nine miles, passing
+through a fine open forest country. The pond, which formerly supplied us
+here, was now quite dry, but one much larger in a rocky bed was found a
+few hundred yards further up the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at
+noon, 80°; at 4 p.m. 88°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>12TH OCTOBER.--This day we also turned two former days' journeys
+into one, and arrived at Camp XXXVIII. by 2 p.m., the ponds at the
+intermediate camp (XXXIX.) being dry. Nevertheless, the recent rains
+had left some water in rocky hollows, at which we could water our
+horses on the way. By the river side this morning, we found a variety of
+the HELIPTERUM ANTHEMOIDES, D.C., with the leaves pubescent and the
+scales of the involucre paler. The silky grass, IMPERATA ARUNDINACEA,
+occurred in the swampy flat we crossed before we encamped. Soon after
+we set out in the morning, an old man was seen coming along the valley
+towards us, without at first seeing the party. When he did, which was not
+until he had come very near, he uttered a sort of scream, "OOEY!", and ran
+up amongst some rocks beyond the water-course, nor would he stop,
+when repeatedly called to by Yuranigh. He carried a firestick, a small
+bag on his back, and some bomarengs under his left arm. His hair was
+grey but very bushy, and he looked fat. The poor fellow was dreadfully
+frightened, which I much regretted, for I might otherwise have obtained
+from him some information about the ultimate course of the Warrego,
+etc. We found water in one of the rocky ponds near our former
+encampment, but others in which some had formerly been found, were
+dry, and I was not without some doubt about finding water, on our way
+back to join Mr. Kennedy. Thermometer, at sunrise, 42°; at noon, 87°; at
+4 p.m., 96°; at 9, 78°;--with wet bulb, 60°.
+
+<p>13TH OCTOBER.--The night was uncommonly hot, thermometer 79°
+here, where in June last it had been as low as 7°. The sky had been
+clouded, but the morning cleared up, and we enjoyed a cool breeze in
+passing amongst the sandstone gullies. On arriving at the foot of Mount
+Owen the day became very sultry, and there was a haziness in the air. On
+Mount Owen Mr. Stephenson found a new species of VIGNA with yellow
+flowers[*], and the SWAINSONIA PHACOIDES, conspicuous with its pink
+flowers. We took up our old ground over the gullies, and I went in quest
+of water. The ponds formerly here, had dried up, but Yuranigh found a
+deep one in the solid rock, containing enough for months. It was
+inaccessible to horses, but with a bucket we watered both these and the
+bullocks. The mercurial column was low, the sky became overcast, and a
+slight shower raised our hopes that at length rain might fall in sufficient
+quantity to relieve us from the difficulty about water, in returning
+towards Mr. Kennedy's camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 63°; at noon,
+79°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 64°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>[* V. LANCEOLATA (Benth. MS.) glabra volubilis, foliolis lanceolatis
+reticulatis integris v. basi hastato-lobatis, pedunculis folio multo
+longioribus apice paucifloris, calyce glabro campanulato dentibus tubo
+brevioribus, carina rostrata acuta.--Flowers smaller than in V. VILLOSA,
+but of the same form.]
+
+<p>14TH OCTOBER.--During the night several smart showers fell, and at
+daybreak the sky seemed set for rain. When we set off it rained rather
+heavily. I took a new direction, and got into a gully which led to our
+former track of 17th June. Crossing it, I passed into the bed of the
+Maranòa, and followed it down with the carts, until we arrived at the
+large pond in solid rock, to which I had sent the bullocks on the 18th
+June. Here we encamped, and I marked a tree with the number 74, as it
+might be necessary on future occasions to refer to where a permanent
+supply of water may be found in that part of the country. Thermometer,
+at sunrise, 60°; at noon, 71°; at 4 p.m., 66°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb,
+48°.
+
+<p>15TH OCTOBER.--Last evening the wind blew keenly, and the night was
+cold, the temperature very different from that experienced of late. The
+morning presented a thick haze and drizzling rain, this kind of weather
+being rather favourable for crossing the loose sandy surface, which the
+men dreaded, remembering how it had before affected their eyes. I at
+first endeavoured to travel this day along the river bank, but I found its
+course so tortuous, and the country on its banks so hilly and rocky, that I
+left it, and proceeded in a direction that would intersect the former track.
+We thus passed through a fine open forest, fell in with our old track at a
+convenient point, and found water still in the pond at the camp of 15th
+June, where we therefore again set up our tents. The sky had cleared up,
+and the air was pleasantly cool, with a fine breeze blowing from S.E. On
+the river bank, we observed this day the native bramble, or Australian
+form of RUBUS PARVIFOLIUS, L. A small nondescript animal ran before Mr.
+Stephenson and myself this morning. It started from a little bush at the
+foot of a tree, had large ears, a short black tail, ran like a hare, and left
+a similar track. It was about the size of a small rabbit. The death of our
+dogs on the Bogan, under the intense heat and drought, had been a very
+serious loss to us, as we found on many occasions like this; and where
+kangaroos, of apparently rare species, escaped from us from our having
+no dogs. We were, also, from want of such dogs, much more exposed to
+attacks of the natives. Evening again cloudy. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+45°; at noon, 64°; at 4 p.m., 67°; at 9, 57°;--with wet bulb, 50°.
+
+<p>16TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning, with a fine refreshing breeze
+from east, succeeded the cloudy weather of yesterday. I crossed the little
+river, and travelled straight towards Camp XXXVII. On the higher
+ground grew a heath-like bush, (ERIOSTEMON RHOMBEUM,) three or four
+feet high. At a distance of only nine miles, we came upon the little river
+beside that camp, and fell into the old track a mile on beyond it; and,
+early in the day, we arrived at a chain of ponds, half-way to the next
+camp at Possession Creek. The ponds where I went to encamp were dry;
+but, on following the water-course downwards, I came to its junction
+with the Maranòa, at half a mile from the camp, and found a large basin
+of water at that point. Here, the NOTELOEA PUNCTATA was no longer a low
+trailing bush, but a shrub ten or twelve feet high, with the appearance of
+a European PHILLYREA. On the wet ground at the river bank, grew an
+entire-leaved variety (?) of PLANTAGO VARIA. The wild carrot, DAUCUS
+BRACHIATUS, with an annual wiry root, was also seen in the rich ground
+near the river. Yuranigh found more of the native tobacco, which the
+men eagerly asked for some of. This was a variety of the southern
+NICOTIANA SUAVEOLENS, with white flowers, and smoother leaves.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 51°;
+--with wet bulb, 42°. Height above the sea, 1315 feet. (Camp 75.)
+
+<p>17TH OCTOBER.--The thermometer stood as low as the freezing point
+this morning, and the day was cooled by a wind from the N. E. In
+crossing Possession Creck, we saw nothing of the formerly belligerent
+natives. From Camp XXXIII, I took a direct course to Camp XXXII,
+where we arrived early. No water remaining in the adjacent ponds, I
+followed the dry channel down to its junction, and found the Maranòa
+full of water; this point being three quarters of a mile from our camp. We
+had this day passed over a fine open forest country, in which were also
+groves of the ACACIA PENDULA. The vegetation, in general, seemed
+drooping, from the want of rain; but the whole was available for grazing
+purposes. We saw, this day, plants of PYCNOSORUS GLOBOSUS, in the dry
+forest land; and the purple-flowered RUELLIA AUSTRALIS. The ACACIA
+SPECTABILIS formed a spreading bush, about eight feet high. The HOVEA
+LEIOCARPA, and CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS, were also found; with a new
+MYRIOGYNE[*], and a small shrub, three feet high, with narrow, blunt,
+glaueous leaves, tasting like rum. A small fruit, with the fragrance of an
+orange, proved to be a new species of TRIPHASIA.[**]
+
+<p>[* M. RACEMOSA (Hook. MS.) radice perenni fusiformi superne multicipiti,
+caulibus decumbentibus, foliis lineari-cuneatis grosse serratis punctatis,
+capitulis in racemis subnudis terminalibus.--Very different from any
+described MYRIOGYNE, in the terminal racemed capitula.]
+
+<p>[** T. GLAUCA (Lindl. MS.); spinosa, foliis coriaceis integerrimis
+crenatisque linearibus glaucis obtusis retusisque, floribus trimeris
+dodecandris 2-3nis brevi-pedicellatis.]
+
+<p>It is much to be regretted, that the specimens gathered here of the
+brigalow, should have been so imperfect that they could not be
+described. If an Acacia, Mr. Bentham says, it is different from any he
+knows.
+
+<p>The vicinity of the river here affords security for a supply of water, in
+seasons like the present, when any contained in the smaller channels may
+be dried up. In the afternoon we lost a horse, which fell from a
+precipitous part of the bank, at the junction of the creek with the river.
+One man was leading four, when one horse kicked another, which,
+falling perpendicularly, from a height of about forty feet, was so much
+hurt as to be unable to rise. The folly, or rather obstinacy of the man,
+leading so many together, on the verge of a precipice, was contrary to
+particular orders previously given, and which ought to have been
+enforced by Graham, who was in charge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 32°;
+at noon, 78°; at 4 p.m., 79°; at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 45°.
+
+<p>18TH OCTOBER.--The horse, still unable to get on his legs, and
+apparently dying, was shot, and buried in the sand of the bed of the
+creek. This loss, when we were so near our depôt camp, was much to be
+regretted, as we should have otherwise taken back every bullock and
+horse, after an absence, from that camp, of four months and fifteen days.
+We saw not a single native about the woods or the river, and were,
+therefore, the more anxious to know how Mr. Kennedy and the natives
+had agreed at the depôt camp, now within a day's ride of us. We
+continued to follow our former track to Camp XXXI, and it may be
+remarked, to their credit, that the aborigines had not attempted to deface
+any of these marked trees. It might have occurred, even to them, that
+such marks were preparatory to the advent of more white men into their
+country. The fine, deep reaches in the river, looked still full and
+unfailing; and a short journey to-morrow would take us to the camp of
+the rest of the party. We this day found a little jasmine in flower, of
+which Mr. Stephenson had formerly collected the seeds. It was white, not
+more than a foot high, with solitary white flowers, emitting a delightful
+fragrance, and it grew in the light sandy forest land.[*] A tree loaded with
+pods, which the natives eat, has been determined by Sir William Hooker
+to be the BRACHYCHITON POPULNEUM, Br., or STERCULIA HETEROPHYLLA of
+Cunn. Here was picked up a singular little annual plant, belonging to the
+genus PIMELEA, with hairy, loose spikes of minute green flowers[**]; and
+by the river we found the CALANDRINIA BALONENSIS.
+
+<p>[* J. SUAVISSIMUM (Lindl. MS.); herbaceum, ramis angulatis, foliis
+sessilibus simplicibus alternis oppositisque lineari-lanceolatis,
+pedunculis solitariis unifloris supra medium bibracteatis foliis
+longioribus, sepalis subulatis, corollae laciniis 5-7 acutissimis.]
+
+<p>[** P. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); annua, foliis alternis linearibus pilis
+paucis adpressis, spicis laxis terminalibus villosissimis.]
+
+<p>The morrow was looked forward to with impatience. Four months and
+a half had the main body of the party been stationary; and that was a long
+time to look back upon, with the expectation that it had remained
+undisturbed, although isolated in a country still claimed and possessed by
+savages. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon, 83°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at 9,
+64°;--with wet bulb, 48°.
+
+<p>19TH OCTOBER.--The party was early in motion along the old track.
+Leaving the intermediate camp to the left, we struck across the country
+so as to hit the track again within a few miles of the depôt camp. Old
+tracks of cattle, when the earth had been soft, and the print of A SHOE,
+were the first traces of the white man's existence we met with; nor did we
+see any thing more conclusive, until the tents on the cliffs overhanging
+the river were visible through the trees. We saw men, also, and even
+recognised some of them, before our party was observed; nor did they
+see us advancing, with a flag on the cart, until Brown sounded the bugle.
+Immediately all were in motion, Mr. Kennedy coming forward to the
+cliffs, while the whole party received us with cheers, to which my men
+heartily responded. Mr. Kennedy ran down the cliffs to meet me, and
+was the first to give me the gratifying intelligence that the whole party
+were well; that the cattle and sheep were safe and fat; and, that the
+aborigines had never molested them. A good stock-yard had been set up;
+a storehouse had also been built; a garden had been fenced in, and
+contained lettuce, radishes, melons, cucumbers. Indeed, the whole
+establishment evinced the good effects of order and discipline. Drysdale,
+the storekeeper, had collected many birds and plants, and had also been
+careful of the stores. The orphan from the Bogan, little Dicky, had grown
+very much, and seemed a very intelligent boy; and the little intercourse
+Mr. Kennedy had had with the aborigines, limited as it was, by my
+instructions to him, was curiously characteristic of the tact and
+originality of this singular race. On one occasion, when on being
+informed that natives were near, he had hastened to meet them, taking
+little Dicky with him, he found remaining only a female and her mother,
+a remarkably old woman, who had before concealed herself among the
+reeds. The daughter on his approach sung a beautiful song, rapidly
+running through the whole gammut. Then bowing her head, she
+presented the back of it to him, and placing her stone-tomahawk in his
+hand, she bade him strike. Mr. Kennedy threw the tomahawk on the
+ground; and seeing the grey head amongst the reeds, he prevailed on the
+mother to come out. She was hideous in person, which was much more
+AFFREUX from the excessive rage with which she seemed to denounce the
+white men;--her fiend-like eyes flashing fire, as if prophetic of the
+advent of another race, and the certain failure of her own.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-23"></a><img alt="" src="trop-23.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Old native female</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>The daughter seemed, at first, to treat lightly the ire of her aged parent,
+playfully patting with her finger her mother's fearfully protruding lip. Mr.
+Kennedy endeavoured to ascertain, through Dicky, the downward course
+of the river, and she seemed to express, and to point also, that the river
+passed southerly into the Balonne, which river she named, and even the
+Culgòa: she seemed to say the name of that locality was "Mundì."
+Neither of these females had any covering, but the younger wore, by way
+of ornament, a page of last year's Nautical Almanac, suspended by a cord
+from her neck. The mother continuing implacable, the daughter, with a
+graceful expression of respect for her, and courtesy to the stranger,
+waved her arm for him to retire, which gesture Mr. Kennedy and Dicky
+immediately obeyed. At another interview, a scheme to decoy Dicky
+away was tried, as related thus in Mr. Kennedy's journal:--"Sunday,
+26th July. Prayers were read at 11 a.m., after which, having been told by
+Drysdale that the natives were still near the camp, and that there was a
+native amongst them who could make himself more intelligible to Dicky
+than the rest, I had started down the river to see them to collect what
+information I could, and then induce them to go farther from the camp. I
+had not gone far before the cooys from the tents made me aware that the
+natives were by this time in sight. I therefore returned, and the first
+object that caught my eye was the bait--a gin, dancing before some
+admiring spectators; and behind her was a fine, lusty native advancing by
+great strides, as he considered the graceful movements of his gin were
+gaining as fast upon the hearts of the white men. On going up to him
+Dicky put the usual questions as to the name of the river, and its general
+course. His reply to the first was not very satisfactory, but our impression
+was that he called it Bàlun. With respect to its course, he plainly said that
+it joined the Balonne; repeatedly pointing in the direction of that river
+and then following with his hand, the various windings of this branch;
+repeating the while some word implying 'walk, walk,' and ending with
+'Balonne.' He knew the names of the mountains Bindàngo and
+Bindyègo. After this conversation he took some fat, which he appeared
+to have brought for the purpose, and anointed Dicky by chewing it, and
+then spitting upon his head and face. He next whispered to him, and (as
+Dicky says) invited him to join them. I then motioned to the men, who
+were looking on at a short distance, to go to the camp; and as they
+obeyed, I made the same signs to the native to move in the opposite
+direction, which he at length did with evident reluctance and
+disappointment, throwing away his green bough, and continually looking
+back as he retired. I desired Dicky to tell him never to come near our
+tents, and that no white man should go to his camp."
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-24"></a><img alt="" src="trop-24.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Aboriginal dance</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>It seems that one family only inhabits these parts, as only three huts at
+most were to be seen in any part of the country, either up or down the
+river; a very fortunate circumstance for our party, obliged to remain so
+long at one spot, after such a formal notice had been given to quit it, as
+our visitors of the 30th of May gave during my absence. Mr. Drysdale,
+the store-keeper, had collected an herbarium during the long sojourn of
+the party at that camp, which included many new plants. In August,
+plants had begun to blossom; and in September various novelties had
+been found in flower. In August, he gathered EURYBIA SUBSPICATA, Hook.
+EURYBIOPSIS MACRORHIZA; or a species allied to it. ACACIA DECORA;
+GOODENIA CORONOPIFOLIA R. Br.; CONVOLVULUS ERUBESCENS; a hairy variety
+of BORONIA BIPINNATA, with smaller flowers than usual, and most of the
+leaves simply pinnate. A cruciferous plant, probably new; two new
+species of EURYBIA and CALOTIS, SENECIO CARNOSULUS? D. C. An ASPERULA?
+with the habit of Galium. MYOPORUM DULCE; VERONICA PLEBEIA; an acerose
+LEUCOPOGON; a species of violet, with small, densely-spiked flowers (was
+covered with wild bees in search of its honey). A species of BRUNONIA,
+apparently the same as the B. SIMPLEX of the north bank of the Darling,
+but taller and less hairy. A NYSSANTHES, apparently undescribed;
+SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA; a small variety of SALSOLA AUSTRALIS; XEROTES
+DECOMPOSITA, a hard-leaved, sedgy plant; a fine LEUCOPOGON, with
+unilateral flowers; and another species with yellowish blossoms, both
+perhaps new. A pretty little grass belonging to the genus PAPPOPHORUM,
+with a blackish green colour.[*] A magnificent new ACACIA, with leaves
+nearly a foot long.[**] A minute annual CALANDRINIA.[***] An ERODIUM, closely
+resembling the European E. LITTOREUM, Arn. and Benth., from Isle of St.
+Lucie; it was also found by A. Cunningham in the swamps of the
+Lachlan. A new PROSTANTHERA, with indented glandular viscid leaves.[****] A
+beautiful ever-lasting plant belonging to the genus HELIPTERES.[*****] A new
+LEPTOCYAMUS, with slender, trailing, hairy stems.[******] SIDA VIRGATA (Hook.
+MS.)[*******] SIDA FILIFORMIS (A. Cunn.).[********] A new DODONOEA in the way
+of the D. CUNEATA of the colony, with long, slender flower stalks.[*********]
+
+<p>[* P. VIRENS (Lindl. MS.); pumilum, caespitosum, aristis 9 plumosis
+rigidis apice nudis, spicâ compositâ laxâ tenui villosâ, glumis pilosis,
+paleis sericeo-pilosis, foliis tactu scabris vaginis pilosis juxta ligulam
+villosis.]
+
+<p>[** A. MACRADENIA (Benth. MS.); glabra, ramulis angulatis, phyllodiis
+elongatis subfalcatis acutiusculis basi longe angustatis marginatis
+crassiusculis uninervibus penniveniis nitidis glandula magna prope basin,
+racemis brevibus polycephalis flexuosis subpaniculatis, capitulis
+multifloris, calyce breviter dentato apice corollaque aureo-hispidulis,
+ovario tomentoso.--Near A. FALCIFORMIS D. C. Phyllodia eight to ten
+inches, or near a foot long, from six to ten lines broad.]
+
+<p>[*** C. PUSILLA (Lindl. MS.); foliis equitantibus subacinaciformibus
+radicalibus, caulibus simplicibus racemosis v. unifloris, floribus longè
+pedunculatis infimis divaricatis, floribus minutis 8-andris.]
+
+<p>[**** P. EUPHRASIOIDES (Benth. MS.) tota viscoso-villosa, foliis linearioblongis
+pinnatifido-dentatis ad axillas subfasciculatis, floribus
+paucisaxillaribus breviter pedicellatis, calycis labiis integris, antherarum
+calcare longiore loculum superante.--The foliage and flowers look at
+first sight very much like those of some of the AUSTRALIAN EUPHRASIOE.
+The leaves are about three lines long.]
+
+<p>[***** H. GLUTINOSA (Hook. MS.); piloso-glandulosa, viscosa, foliis
+angustolinearibus cuspidato-acuminatissimis, capitulis solitariis.--Young buds
+rich rose-colour: full blown capitula pure white, the involucre having a
+slight tinge of purple.]
+
+<p>[****** L. LATIFOLIUS (Benth. MS.); molliter villosus, foliolis membranaceis
+oblique obovatis ovalibusque utrinque adpresse pubescentibus villosisve,
+calycibus subsessilibus villosis.]
+
+<p>[******* S. FILIFORMIS (All. Cunn. MS.); tota stellato-tomentosa, ramis
+patentissimis elongatis, foliis brevissime petiolatis cordato-ovatis
+crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris gracillimis folio triplo
+longioribus, calyce 5-fido petalis duplo breviore.]
+
+<p>[******** S. VIRGATA (Hook. MS.); ramis elongatis virgatis stellato-tomentosis,
+foliis brevissime petiolatis lineari-oblongis serratis supra
+pubescentivelutinis subtus calyceque 5-fido stellato-pannosis fulvescentibus,
+stipulis acicularibus rigidis spinescentibus, pedunculis axillaribus
+unifloris folio brevioribus, petalis (flavis) calyce duplo longioribus.]
+
+<p>[********* D. PEDUNCULARIS (Lindl. MS.); viscosa, glabra, foliis rigidis
+elongatis spathulatis acutis tridentatis integrisque lobo medio majore,
+pedicellis 1-3-filiformibus, capsulis tetrapteris viscosis alis coriaceis
+rotundatis.]
+
+<p>In September, were gathered in water-holes on the ranges, RANUNCULUS
+SESSILIFLORUS, Br. in De Cand.; and near the camp the hard-leaved XEROTES
+LAXA; JUSTICIA MEDIA; EVOLVULUS LINIFOLIUS; GOODENIA FLAGELLIFERA De Vr.;
+CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; the beautiful ACACIA SPECTABILIS, loaded with
+yellow flowers, on the banks of the river S. W. of the camp. A broader
+haired variet of ACACIAPENNIFOLIA; BOERHAAVIA MUTABILIS, Br. ? TECOMA
+OXLEYI; ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; CARISSA OVATA Br.? a spiny, zigzag, shrub
+with shining leaves and white flowers; CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA. A variety of
+SIDA PISIFORMIS, A. Cunn., with closer leaves and a browner pubescence;
+SIDA (Abutilon) FRAZERI Hook. var. PUMILA. KERAUDRENIA INTEGRIFOLIA;
+LEPTOCYAMUS LATIFOLIUS; POMAX HIRTA? D. C., or a variety. EREMOPHILA
+MITCHELLII var.? LATIFOLIA (Benth. MS.). DODONOEA ACEROSA, A.
+HELICHRYSUM? near H. ODORUM D. C., but with the leaves downy on both
+sides. PIMELEA COLORANS, a plant found by A. Cunningham along the river
+Macquarie. STACKHOUSIA MURICATA, Lindl., which is, perhaps, not distinct
+from S. SPATULATA, Sieb. A PODOLEPIS, resembling P. RUGATA Labill.
+PODOLEPIS LONGIPEDATA, D. C. SOLANUM BIFLORUM, a grey-leaved, dwarf,
+herbaceous plant. RANUNCULUS PLEBEIUS, very like an English buttercup. A
+PLEURANDRA, near P. ERICIFOLIA, probably a variety. RUELLIA AUSTRALIS;
+PITTOSPORUM SALICINUM. One of the Dodder laurels (CASSYTHA PUBESCENS,
+R. Br.), a species also found near Port Jackson. VIGNA LANCEOLATA;
+XEROTES LONGIFOLIA, a very common, hard-leaved plant. ANTHERICUM
+BULBOSUM, R. Br. GERANIUM PARVIFLORUM? or one nearly allied to it:
+exactly the same species is found in Van Diemen's Land. HELIPTERUM
+ANTHEMOIDES? D. C., but smaller in all its parts. NEPTUNIA GRACILIS;
+BRUNONIA SERICEA; SIDA, apparently new. A new and fine species of
+MENTHA.[*] A new, round-leaved species of PROSTANTHERA.[**] A new species
+of SWAINSONA[***]; PLEURANDRA CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.).[****] A new TRICHINIUM,
+with conical flower-heads.[*****] A species of HIBISCUS, with purple
+flowers.[******] A new species of DAVIESIA, with spiny, shaggy leaves.[*******]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 75°; at 9, 50°;
+--with wet bulb, 47°.
+
+<p>[* M. GRANDIFLORA (Benth. MS.); molliter pubescens, caulibus erectis,
+foliis petiolatis ovatis acutiusculis dentatis planis verticillatis laxis
+sexfloris, calycis dentibus lanceolato-subulatis intus vix pilosis, corolla
+calyce subduplo longiore, staminibus exsertis.--Near M. AUSTRALIS Br.,
+but the leaves broader and flowers larger.]
+
+<p>[** P. RINGENS (Benth. MS.); ramulis puberulis, foliis petiolatis
+rhombeoorbiculatis integerrimis utrinque opacis glandulosis, calycis glandulosi
+glabri labiis integris, corollae labio superiore subgaleato, antherarum
+calcaribus loculo brevioribus.--Foliage nearly that of P. RHOMBEA.
+Flowers much larger.]
+
+<p>[*** S. PHACOIDES (Benth. MS.); decumbens molliter pubescens, foliolis 13-
+15-linearibus cuneatisve, pedunculis folio longioribus apice paucifloris,
+legumine brevissime stipitato villoso.--A low plant with much the
+habit of several PHACAS or ASTRAGALI. Flower yellow, smaller than in S.
+CORONILLOEFOLIA.]
+
+<p>[**** P. CISTOIDEA (Hook. MS.); pilis stellatis brevibus rigidis asperis, foliis
+angusto-linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis, floribus in ramos breves
+solitariis, staminibus sub-12 unilateralibus, filamentis infra medium
+inaequaliter connexis antheras longitudine aequantibus, ovario parvo
+globoso lanato.]
+
+<p>[***** T. CONICUM (Lindl. MS.); hirto-pubescens, caule basi diviso, ramis
+ascendentibus subsimplicibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis acutis, spicâ
+conicâ, bracteis unincrviis mucronatis glabris, rachi tomentosâ.
+
+<p>[****** H. STURTII (Hook. MS.); suffruticosus ubique subtus praecipue
+dense stellatim tomentosus, foliis petiolatis oblongo-ovatis ellipticisve
+obtusis grosse crenato-serratis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris solitariis
+folio brevioribus, involucro monophyllo ..... turbinato 6-8-fido calycem
+5-fidum aequante, capsulis hispidissimis.--This species was also found
+by Capt. Sturt in the south interior. The flowers are purple, sometimes
+yellowish in drying. The involucre is very remarkable, monophyllous,
+broad at top and 6 or 8-cleft, almost wholly concealing the calyx.--W.
+J. H.]
+
+<p>[******* D. FILIPES (Benth. MS.); ramis hirsutis inermibus, foliis ovalioblongis
+sublanceolatisve apice spinoso-mucronatis planis pubescentibus,
+pedicellis filiformibus folio demum longioribus in pedunculo brevissimo
+solitariis geminisve.]
+
+<p>20TH OCTOBER.--It was necessary to halt here a day or two, that the
+blacksmith might have time to repair the light carts, and shoe the horses.
+I took a ride this day with Mr. Kennedy to a hill some miles eastward of
+the camp, in which he had found some remarkable fossils. The hill
+consisted of a red ferruguinous sandstone, in parts of which were
+imbedded univalve and bivalve shells, pieces of water-worn or burnt
+wood, and what seemed fragments of bone. To some of the portions of
+wood, young shells adhered, but others bore, evidently, marks of fire;
+showing the black scarified parts, and those left untouched or
+unscarified, very plainly. Other portions of woods had their ends waterworn,
+and were full of long cracks, such as appear in wood long exposed
+to the sun. These specimens were, in general, silicified: but the outer
+parts came off in soft flakes resembling rotten bark, being equally pliant,
+although they felt gritty, like sand, between the teeth. This hill was rather
+isolated, but portions of tabular masses, forming the range of St. George's
+Pass, and in contact with the volcanic hill of Mount Kennedy which
+forms a nucleus to these cliffy ranges, being about 9 miles N. E. of this
+hill, to which, from its contents, I gave the name of Mount Sowerby. The
+weeping GEIJERA PENDULA again occurred in abundance near Mount
+Sowerby; the CAPPARIS LASIANTHA was climbing up the rocks there, and
+amongst the grasses we observed a species of the genus LAPPAGO,
+perhaps not distinct from the Indian L. BIFLORA. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+39°; at noon, 56°; 4 p.m., 87°; at 9, 67°; with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>21ST OCTOBER.--I took a ride with Mr. Kennedy to the summit to
+which I had attached his name, having occasion to take a back angle
+from it on Mount Owen, and one or two other points. I could there show
+him many of the distant summits to the northward of the country, I was
+about to lay down on my map. We rode over a fine tract of forest land,
+extending from the camp to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about
+twelve miles. On the high range grew a profusion of a beautiful little
+PTEROSTYLIS, quite new, but in the way of P. RUFA[*], a single specimen of a
+new KENNEDYA was gathered there.[**] On the plains we found a curious
+new form of the genus DANTHONIA, much resembling wheat in ear[***], and a
+new JASMINE, with a rich perfume, resembling I. LINEARE, but with short
+axillary corymbs of flowers. This species has been named by Dr. Lindley
+after myself.[****] We found also the SOLANUM VIOLACEUM with its violet
+flowers and orange spines. A fine wiry herbage was formed by the
+LAXMANNIA GRACILIS, now in flower, ERYTHROEA AUSTIALIS D. C., a smallflowered
+species of CENTAURY, the DIANELLA RARA, R. Br. and SALVIA
+PLEBEIA. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at noon, 85°; at 4, p.m., 84°; at 9,
+65° with wet bulb, 52°.
+
+<p>[* P. MITCHELLII (Lindl. MS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus stellatis, vaginis
+scapi multiflori 3 remotis, scpalis setaceo-acuminatis, labelli laminâ
+ovato-lineari obtusâ canaliculatâ supra pilis (luteis) articulatis crinitâ.]
+
+<p>[** K. PROCURRENS (Benth. MS.); foliolis 3 ellipticis ovatisve mucronulatis
+utrinque hirtellis subtus reticulatis, stipulis subcordato-lanceolatis
+acutissimis striatis, pedunculis versus apicem plurifloris petiolo multo
+longioribus, floribus subnutantibus.--Flowers considerably smaller
+than in K. PROSTRATA, and petals narrower.]
+
+<p>[*** D. TRITICOIDES (Lindl. MS.); culmo ramoso stricto, foliis glabris margine
+spinoso-scabris basi planis apice involutis, spicâ cylindraceâ distichâ
+secundâ, spiculis subtrifloris flore summo mutico abortiente, paleae
+inferioris dorso lanatae aristâ rectâ glumâ mucronatâ multinervi longiore.]
+
+<p>[**** J. MITCHELLII; foliis ternatis glabris; foliolis linearibus
+linearilanceolatisque, ramis teretibus, corymbis axillaribus subsessilibus
+foliis multo brevioribus, calycibus pubescentibus subtruncatis 5-dentatis,
+corollae limbo 5-fido acuto.]
+
+<p>22D OCTOBER.--The information Mr. Kennedy had gathered from the
+natives, about the final course of the river; his surveys thereof, which,
+even on foot, he had extended sixteen miles (eight miles each way from
+the camp), and the fact, that the fish of the Balonne, Cod, or GRISTES
+PEELII had, at length been caught in it, all led to the conclusion that this
+river was no other than the tributary which on the 24th, of April I at first
+followed up, and afterwards halted and wrote back to Mr. Kennedy
+about. By following this down, the probability that we should find water
+seemed greater, than by returning along our old track, where we had left
+behind some ponds so small that we could not hope to find any water
+remaining, especially at two of the camps between us and Bindango, I
+therefore determined to follow this river downward, and to survey its
+course. We left the depôt camp this morning, and to avoid some overhanging
+cliffs on the river, we travelled first over an open tract. The
+camp we left, namely, XXIX, or "MOONDI," or the "second depôt camp,"
+will be found a valuable cattle-station or sheep-station, by the first
+squatter coming this way. The runs about it are very extensive; the
+natives few and inoffensive, and the stock-yard etc., left there, renders it
+very complete. I must not omit, however, to mention, that the water had
+become slightly brackish, but not so as to be unpalatable, or even,
+indeed, perceptible, except to persons unused to it. The large reach had
+fallen two feet since the party first occupied that station. In other reaches
+lower down, that we passed during this day's journey, the water was
+perfectly sweet. I proceeded about thirteen miles with the light party, and
+encamped at the junction of a little river from the N. W. formerly crossed
+by me (on my ride of 23d May). A new poppy was found on the flats by
+the river, near PAPAVER DUBIUM; but the leaves, when dry, became darkgreen
+not pale; the aculei are too numerous and stout, pectant not
+depressed, and the flowers very small. The teams and drays did not arrive
+as expected, and the men with me had not brought any provisions with
+them. We saw natives in the woods before we encamped, and parts of the
+grass on fire. A beautifully worked net, laid carefully under a piece of
+bark, having two curiously carved stakes attached to it, was found by Mr.
+Kennedy, who made deep impressions of his boots in the soil near it, that
+the natives might see that white men had been there, and had left the net
+untouched. Thermometer, at sunrise, 47°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 85°; at
+9, 70°; with wet bulb, 56°. Height above the sea, 1185 feet (Camp 76).
+
+<p>23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
+drays, which only took place at ½ past 11, a.m. The cattle were found
+to be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
+Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
+Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
+directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
+rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
+DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid, with a
+denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
+(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
+were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48°; at
+noon, 91°; at 4 p.m., 93°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
+ovatiscordatis acutis argutè crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
+pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
+calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J.
+Backhouse MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive
+range; having been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane
+River by Fraser and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All.
+Cunningham.]
+
+<p>[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
+Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i.
+p. 147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
+
+<p>24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered
+upon an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank
+of the river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south.
+The cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
+plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
+twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
+whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
+route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
+higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not
+then suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course
+was so favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of
+these extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered
+as they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
+open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
+downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
+remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
+camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this was
+numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
+surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they will
+not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also enable the
+land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map of the
+country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the afternoon, and
+the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a clear starry sky, at
+9 p.m., admitted of our observations as usual. Thermometer, at sunrise,
+53°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 83°; at 9, 58°;--with wet bulb, 47°. Height
+above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.)
+
+<p>[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
+integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
+terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
+broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
+and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20
+feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
+
+<p>25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I
+had perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
+or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
+ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
+approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
+contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
+brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
+eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
+extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
+east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped after
+a journey of 10 1/3; miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
+south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
+with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our
+former route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
+neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
+country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at
+noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 94°; at 9, 65°;--with wet bulb, 51°. Height above
+the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
+
+<p>26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranòa, about a mile from
+our camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its
+course throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
+these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranòa on
+our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
+pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20° E. of S. At
+length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N. W.,
+full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed the
+main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of broad
+blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of the
+Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous
+ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land.
+Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the
+river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the grass
+was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered over
+the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of
+whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed
+of the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish
+(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in
+the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings,
+showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes
+continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such
+circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones,
+some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the
+nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and
+made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted
+wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or
+moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I
+could not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at noon, 83°; at 4 P.
+M., 93°; at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 59°.
+
+<p>[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
+
+<p>27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
+found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
+islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course, and
+contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the bush
+was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she had
+ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us without
+any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-forward
+course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the name of
+the river; to which question she replied, in his own language, "The name
+of that water is Maranòa:" thus confirming the name we had already
+understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It proved the
+accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first communicated to
+him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The gin appeared
+to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female wore no sort
+of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal who may have
+been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling about fourteen
+miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and encamped beside it.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 68°; at 4 p.m., 95°; at 9, 77°;
+--wet bulb, 65°. Height above the sea, 832 feet. (Camp 80.)
+
+<p>[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-ovatis
+trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-serratis, subtus
+bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet high. Flowers
+scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan river.]
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-25"></a><img alt="" src="trop-25.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>View on the River Maranòa</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I
+most willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
+sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
+presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
+woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
+characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
+their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees; have
+half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like the willow,
+the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and I was informed
+by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives call it
+"Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in waterholes. They
+are too honest and fair in their fights to think of poisoning their weapons.
+The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly characteristic of its
+deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline resembling
+Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,--
+
+<p>--"who dwelt about the very gates of death,
+Pale misery had worn him to the bones."
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-26"></a><img alt="" src="trop-26.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Acacia VARIANS</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 a.m., after which we had a
+cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
+for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
+dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at
+noon, 75°; at 4 p.m., 76°; at 9, 60°;--wet bulb, 51°.
+
+<p>29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so
+much ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to
+bullocks or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter
+want of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country
+was open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
+reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and drivers,
+had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and measuring
+twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this seemed
+only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain what was
+beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards. We
+found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
+main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
+to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped.
+We discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
+Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and
+covered with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face
+being rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan;
+for which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling
+those made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on
+this shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
+the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
+these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed for
+war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 68°;
+at 4 p.m., 73°; at 9, 49°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
+
+<p>[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
+
+<p>30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the
+dry channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of
+our former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of
+water was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which
+was by following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush
+would allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while
+we proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having
+halted the small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with
+Yuranigh, but all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a
+part of the sandy bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough
+he thrust in, that there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I
+returned, determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock
+teams had also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that
+Drysdale, having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had
+been led to the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the
+cattle had been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding
+water the dog was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We
+had come about fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on
+the map. On doing this, I found we had at length attained a point from
+whence, in case of necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if
+no water were found in the country intervening, the direct distance being
+under forty miles. During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found,
+higher up than the first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then
+to proceed prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the
+Balonne, but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would
+oblige us to go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.
+M., 78°; at 9, 60°;--with wet bulb, 46°.
+
+<p>31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they
+found a dry sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my
+first ride from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I
+was myself engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 81°; at 4 p.m., 84°; at 9, 51°
+--wet bulb, 43°. Height above the sea, 882 feet.
+
+<p>1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose
+beside Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded.
+After travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of
+inundation, and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for
+water, Yuranigh found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I
+encamped, resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be
+traversed in uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found
+rocky ridges on the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives
+in the woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the
+aspect of drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral
+country, traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I
+think this want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in
+that back country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance,
+the Cogoon.
+
+<p>2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward,
+prepared to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water
+until we arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we
+were to traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the
+country appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel
+of the river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
+sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
+formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
+north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
+This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
+along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranòa.
+The water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line
+along the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
+country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranòa, a supply
+would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
+(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
+straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27° 31' 37" S., we
+again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
+Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°; at noon, 76°; at 4 p.m., 79°; at 9, 63°;
+--with wet bulb, 61°. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet.
+
+<p>3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as
+I had determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
+Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles above
+that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through much
+open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris always
+appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length, plains
+again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them, after
+travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line, running
+north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on towards the
+main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from it, so that we
+were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a half, after a
+journey, with carts, of 26½ miles. Here occurred the only Epiphyte
+observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts of trees
+in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of Brown.
+One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long. The
+fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than usual,
+at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an inconspicuous
+weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA TRICHOSTACHYA was
+there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a woolly. ANDROPOGON,
+which appeared not to be distinct from the A. BOMBYCINUS. In the open
+forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA OCCIDENTALIS, and on the
+plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and
+a creeping plant, with yellow flowers, since found to be a new species of
+GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; at noon, 85°; at 4 p.m., 86°; at
+9, 66°;--with wet bulb, 54°. Height above the sea, 819 feet.
+
+<p>[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
+dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
+corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a
+distinct genus.]
+
+<p>[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
+longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
+axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido, laciniis
+lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava, labio superiore
+fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio ciliato; flagellis
+folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula prismatica, biloculari; seminibus
+marginatis compressis; flagellis floriferis; floribus in axilla folii
+ovatorotundati, auriculati, subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius
+pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10 cent. longa, 1½-2 cent. lata,
+apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum attenuata, subdecurrentia,
+utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia flagellorum bracteiformia,
+ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere auriculata, alterutra auricula
+multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum illarum axillis, reliquis multo
+minoribus neque ad normam perfectis, brevius pedunculatis. Affinis
+species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.]
+
+<p>4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the
+satisfaction soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the
+majestic Balonne. This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames
+at Richmond; its banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and
+the merry notes of numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering
+appearance; especially to us who were again upon a route connected with
+home, and at a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen
+that route. We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey,
+of the lower Maranòa, a river which had brought us in a very straight
+direction back to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established
+a well watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in
+the more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark
+is intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranòa x. being
+marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
+cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
+felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled districts,
+and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during seven
+months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
+cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied it
+so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
+sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when
+I set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof,
+fly-proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of
+it, "LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at
+4 p.m., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°. Height above the sea, 738 feet.
+
+<p>5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards
+Camp VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depôt had been
+stationed; the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were
+visible along our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far
+these parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
+advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this day,
+we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
+a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
+running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
+until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
+tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
+accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
+then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
+think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
+of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
+both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
+articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
+their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the exploring
+party; and of the very favourable impression we had made formerly on
+the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of this river. In
+the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the ripe fruit of the
+"Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in flower that we
+thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 76°; at 4
+p.m., 85°; at 9, 71°;--wet bulb, 59°.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-27"></a><img alt="" src="trop-27.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>St. Georgia's Bridge</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="chapter09"></a>
+<h4>Chapter IX.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE
+MAPS.--EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY
+RETURNS--AFTER SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM
+SENT WITH DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY
+CROSSES THE BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR
+RIVER.--TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET
+WITH.--CATTLE STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE
+PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF
+SAND.--AFTER SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE
+BARWAN.--A FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES
+NUMEROUS AFTER THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO
+FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER
+BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE
+PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE
+OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE HOMEWARDS.</blockquote>
+
+<p>5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of
+angles taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to
+the Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy,
+followed by Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country
+in the direction of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of
+1831; that was on the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29° 2' S., and bearing
+about 20° E. of S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni"
+ponds, were said to water the intervening country, and I wished to
+ascertain whether they were favourable for the connection of our recently
+explored route, with the termination of that marked out by me in 1831,
+when my journey, undertaken expressly with the same objects in view,
+was accidentally frustrated.
+
+<p>Corporal Graham was to go forward to the postoffice at Tamworth with
+the despatches, when Mr. Kennedy, having ascertained the situation of
+the Mooni ponds, should return. In the meanwhile, I continued to finish
+maps and drawings, although suffering much inconvenience from
+excessive heat, under a tent infested with numerous flies. The banks of
+the river were gay with the purple flowers of SWAINSONA CORONILLOEFOLIA;
+FUSANUS ACUMINATUS, produced its crimson-coloured fruit, which
+Yuranigh brought us from the bush; the spotted bark tree, ELOEODENDRON
+MACULOSUM, was also in these scrubs. A yellow-flowered herbaceous
+plant, has been determined by Professor De Vriese to be identical with
+the Swan River GOODENIA PULCHELLA. A salt plant, greedily eaten by the
+cattle, proved to be a variety of the ATRIPLEX NUMMULARIS, observed in
+February on the Macquarie. A species of GREWIA, in fruit, appeared to be
+the same as the G. RICHARDIANA of Walpers. The TRICHINIUM FUSIFORME R.
+Br., was covered with its globular, shaggy flower-heads, in the sandy
+open parts of the forest. A very remarkable shrub, five or six feet high,
+with the foliage of a Phyllirea, and spreading branches, was loaded with
+short racemes of white flowers. It proved to be a plant of the natural
+order of Bixads, and allied to MELICYTUS, but with hermaphrodite flowers.[*]
+A submerged plant, in the water, was found to be a new species of
+MYRIOPHYLLUM, with tuberculate fruit.[**] CASSIA CORONILLOIDES, a low shrub,
+was in flower.[***] A shrubby MYOPORUM put forth sweet and edible fruit.[****]
+A new ELOEODENDRON, with small panicles of white flowers, formed a
+forest tree twenty feet high, remarkable for its spotted bark.[*****] A
+fir-leaved CASSIA, with thin, sickle-leaved pods, formed a bush, from four to
+five feet high.[******] A new blue-flowered MORGANIA, decorated the
+river-bank[*******]; lastly, a new species of indigo[********], completed the list
+of plants we gathered at this season at the camp over St. George's Bridge.
+
+<p>[* M. ? OLEASTER (Lindl. MS.); glaberrimus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis supra
+griseis subtus virentibus venosis racemis strictis multo longioribus,
+floribus hermaphroditis.--OBS. SEP. 5. PET. 5 hypog. imbricata. ST. 5 in
+margine disci magni inserta. OVAR. ovatum 1-loc. plac. 3-par. STYLUS
+simplex. STIGMA parvum 3-dent. FRUCTUS ignotus, verisim. carnosus.]
+
+<p>[** M. VERRUCOSUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis submersis capillaceo-multifidis
+emersis ternatim verticillatis ovatis pinnatifidis, floribus octandris,
+fructibus tuberculatis.]
+
+<p>[*** C. CORONILLOIDES (A. Cunn. MS.); ramis subangulatis petiolisque minute
+puberulis, foliolis 8-10-jugis lineari-oblongis obtusiusculis glabris,
+glandula cylindrica inter par infimum, racemis axillaribus 2-3-floris folio
+multo brevioribus.--Very near C. AUSTRALIS, but the leaflets are fewer
+and smaller, and the subulate glands of that species are wanting.--G. B.
+
+<p>[**** M. DULCE (Benth. MS.); ramulis laevibus, foliis anguste lanceolatis
+planis acutis uninervibus basi angustatis, laciniis calycinis
+linearilanceolatis acutis brevibus, corollae limbo imberbi.--Intermediate
+between M. TENUIFOLIUM Br. and M. DESERTI Cunn.]
+
+<p>[***** E. MACULOSUM (Lindl. MS.); inerme, foliis linearibus obovatis
+integerrimis obtusis, paniculis terminalibus ultra folia evectis.]
+
+<p>[****** C. CIRCINNATA (Benth. MS.); glabriuscula, petiolis phyllodineis
+lineari-subteretibus, foliolis nullis, racemis phyllodio plerumque
+brevioribus 1-2-floris, legumine plano glabro cincinnato v. spiraliter
+contorto.--Phyllodia one to one and a half inch long, resembling the
+leaflets of C. HETEROLOBA. Pod like that of several PITHECOLOBIA, but not
+yet ripe.]
+
+<p>[******* M. FLORIBUNDA (Benth. MS.); dense glandulosa, caeterum glabra, ramis
+strictis dense foliosis foliis linearibus rarissime dentatis, pedicellis
+plerisque geminis folio florali multo brevioribus.--This is a very
+distinct species which was also gathered by Sir T. Mitchell in 1836, but
+my specimen was not complete enough to describe it accurately, the
+branches are thickly covered with leaves and flowers. The lower leaves
+are one to two inches long, the flowers blue, like those of
+M. GLABRA. G.B.]
+
+<p>[******** I. BREVIDENS (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, gracilis, pilis parvis canescens,
+foliolis 6-10-jugis cum impari oppositis obovatis subplanis mucronatis v.
+emarginatis utrinque strigosis, racemis multifloris laxis folia vix
+superantibus, bracteis minutis, calycis villosuli dentibus brevissimis
+obtusis, corolla pubescente, legumine strigilloso incurvo.--It has much
+the aspect of I. MICRANTHA (Bunge), but the flowers are not quite so small,
+and the teeth of the calyx are very different.]
+
+<p>15TH NOVEMBER.--Mr. Kennedy having been absent much longer than
+was expected, at length appeared on the opposite bank of the river with
+Douglas, both being on foot, and Douglas leading only one (strange)
+horse. The information Mr. Kennedy brought me was favourable to the
+project of uniting this route with that to the Barwan, and the (now)
+settled district of the Nammoy. He had found that the Mooni ran nearly
+north and south, and that its banks were occupied with cattle-stations to
+within a day's ride of our camp. This ride of discovery had, however, cost
+the lives of two of our horses, the bearing already mentioned as the
+direction given for Mr. Kennedy's guidance having been TRUE and not
+magnetic. Pursuing that bearing BY COMPASS, Mr. Kennedy had ridden
+almost parallel to the Mooni, sixty-three miles, without hitting them, or
+finding water. The heat was intense, one of the horses died, and the men
+were very ill; when they at length reached these ponds. In returning, he
+had travelled by the stations, and borrowed the horse brought back, from
+the station nearest to us, occupied by Messrs. Hook. From these
+gentlemen Mr. Kennedy had ascertained that Sir Charles Fitzroy was the
+new Governor.
+
+<p>17TH NOVEMBER.--The whole party crossed the Balonne by St.
+George's Bridge, and I arrived, the same afternoon, with a small
+advanced party on the Mooni, which we made in latitude 28° 17' 51" S.
+The channel was full of water, and thus we completed the last link
+wanted to form a chain of communication DIRECT FROM SYDNEY, to the
+furthest limits we had explored. The ground was imprinted with the
+hoofs of cattle, and we already felt as if at home. The day was one of
+extreme heat without any wind; the thermometer stood at 104° in the
+shade. Yet the horses drew the carts easily twenty-four miles and a
+quarter. We had passed over a country covered with excellent grass,
+consisting chiefly of plains and open forest, with scrubs of ACACIA
+PENDULA, and a soil of clay. In the scrubs we found a new species of
+CANTHIUM, a shrub ten or twelve feet high; and in the open forest ACACIA
+NERIIFOLIA was observed in fruit; HIBISCUS STURTII Hook.; an Evolvulus
+related to SERICEUS; a new yellow CROTALARIA[*] ; and a noble new species
+of STENOCHILUS, with willowy leaves and large trumpet flowers.[**]
+Thermometer, at sunrise, rise, 62°; at noon, 103°; at 4 p.m., 104°; at 9,
+81°;--with wet bulb, 67°. Height above the sea, 622 feet. (Camp 84.)
+
+<p>[* C. DISSITIFLORA (Benth. MS.); herbacea, laxe ramosa, stipulis setaceis,
+foliolis elliptico-oblongis rarius ovalibus obtusis supra glabris subtus
+ramulisque pube tenui subcanescentibus, racemis erectis oppositifoliis
+elongatis, floribus (ultra 20) distantibus, carinae rostro brevi recto, ovulis
+numerosis, legumine breviter stipitato pubescente.--Very near to C.
+SENEGALENSIS among the LONGIROSTRES, but the habit is more rigid, the
+leaflets rather larger, the beak of the keel shorter, and the pod (which is
+only very young in the specimen) is borne on a short stalk.]
+
+<p>[** S. (PLATYCHILUS) BIGNONIAEFLORUS (Benth. MS.); glaber viscosus-foliis
+longe lanceolatis linearibusve apice subuncinato, calycis foliolis latis
+acutis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis obtusissimis infima dilatata
+subtriloba vix caeteris magis soluta, staminibus vix exsertis.--Leaves
+three to six inches long, two to six lines broad, thick and clammy.
+Flowers above an inch long, remarkable for the broad divisions of the
+corolla, and the general form much that of a BIGNONIA. This difference in
+the form of the corolla, would perhaps justify the placing it into a distinct
+genus instead of a mere section, especially as that peculiarity which gave
+the name of STENOCHILUS does not exist, were it not that the forms of the
+corolla are so different in different other species, that they will not
+furnish generic characters where the habit is similar.--G. B.]
+
+<p>18TH NOVEMBER.--The teams came in very early, not having been
+above one mile behind. I remained encamped there, in the expectation of
+some decided change of weather. The night had been oppressively hot.
+The season during which we had been beyond the Balonne, viz., that
+between the 23rd April and 5th November, was the most proper for
+visiting the tropical regions of Australia.
+
+<p>Here we found TRICORYNE ELATIOR, a delicate yellow-flowered plant; a
+species of the genus Fugosia near F. DIGITATA, a plant of Senegambia, but
+less glabrous, and with the leaflets of the involucre much larger.
+MORGANIA GLABRA, a little erect herbaceous plant, having the appearance
+of being parasitical on roots; ACACIA VARIANS, in the open forest, in rich
+soil. ANTHERICUM BULBOSUM, formerly seen on the Narran. In the thick
+forest, a shrub six feet high with small white flowers, CATHA
+CUNNINGHAMII[*] (Hook. MS.), and a new species of VIGNA very near V.
+LANCEOLATA, though very different in habit.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°;
+at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 103°; at 9, 76°;--with wet bulb, 64°.
+
+<p>[* C. CUNNINGHAMII (Hook. MS.); inermis, foliis lineari-lanceolatis rigidis
+mucronato-acutis integerrimis subfalcatis superne latioribus basi in
+petiolum perbrevem attenuatis, floribus axillaribus fasciculatis,
+pedunculis simplicibus vel racemosis bracteolatis.]
+
+<p>[* V. SUBERECTA (Benth. MS.); leviter pubescens, suberecta, ramosissima,
+foliolis lato-lanceolatis basi integris vel hastato-trilobatis, pedunculis
+folio subbrevioribus apice paucifloris, calycis pubescentis campanulati
+dentibus tubo subaequilongis, carina rostrata acuta, legumine puberulo.]
+
+<p>19TH NOVEMBER.--The party moved off at an early hour. The tracks of
+cattle and horses became more and more numerous as we proceeded, and
+the channel of the little river was full of water, on which a large species
+of duck was very plentiful. At length we came upon the track of wheels,
+and followed them towards the station; which was not yet visible when
+our young native, Dicky, fell a shouting and laughing, drawing my
+attention to what certainly was a "RARA AVIS" to him. This was a white
+woman going with pails to milk the cows, and the first white female he
+could ever have seen. The jeering laugh of the young savage was
+amusing, as he pointed to that swaddled, straw-bonneted object, as
+something curious in natural history, to which my attention, as he
+thought, would be rivetted: but the sight was, nevertheless, a welcome
+one to all the party. Soon two comfortable stations, one on each side of
+the river, appeared before us; and the neatly dressed mother of two
+chubby white children stood at the door of one of them. I had a
+memorandum from Mr. Kennedy to call at the other, to thank the owner
+for lending him a horse; and there I first entered again under a roof, and a
+most agreeable cover it did seem to me after living nearly a year under
+canvass, in houseless wilds. These were cattle stations, and both
+appeared to be well-laid out for the purpose, and upon a scale more
+substantial and worthy of it, than I had hitherto seen in squatting districts.
+The placing of two such stations thus near each other, is a good
+arrangement, not only affording better security against the depredations
+of natives, but also as banishing that aspect of solitude and loneliness
+such places in general present; and in the outset of such a life,
+implanting, in the still uncultivated soil, the germs of social union, on the
+solid basis of mutual protection.
+
+<p>I continued to travel some miles beyond these stations, for the sake of
+obtaining better grass for our cattle; and thus lengthened the journey to
+near twenty miles, in very warm weather, the thermometer being 104° in
+the shade. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 102°; at 4 p.m., 104°;
+at 9, 75°;--with wet bulb, 63°. (Camp 85.) Latitude, 28° 30' 51" S.
+
+<p>20TH NOVEMBER.--Travelling south by compass, we found a tolerably
+open forest, and the Mooni on our left, until we fell in with Mr.
+Kennedy's track on riding back. Following this (as he had been guided
+back by an experienced stockman), we at length crossed the Mooni, and
+fell into a cart-track leading southward, and at a few miles beyond where
+we fell into that track, we encamped on the left bank of the Mooni; a tree
+at this camp being marked 86. Again we saw, in the woods about this
+camp, the HYLOCOCCUS SERICEUS R. Br., a remarkable tree, with oblong
+leaves, and fruit resembling a small orange. It is a curious genus, and
+belongs to the poisonous order of Spurgeworts. We found here also, the
+HELICHRYSUM SEMIPAPPOSUM D. C.; ACACIA SPECTABILIS; a new species of
+BEYERIA, near B. VISCOSA, Mig.; the variety of CASSIA SOPHERA (Linn.)
+cultivated in some botanical gardens, under the name of C. SOPHERELLA; a
+beautiful tree with pinnate leaves and spreading panicles of large white
+flowers, called THOUINIA AUSTRALIS; the EUCALYPTUS BICOLOR A. Cunn. MS.,
+a species closely allied to E. HOEMATOMMA Sm., but the marginal nerve is
+not so close to the edge of the leaf (this is the "bastard box" of the
+carpenters); a fine new large-flowered SIDA[*]; and it appears that the
+"Yarra" tree of the natives here, is a new Eucalyptus, which Sir William
+Hooker calls E. ACUMINATA.[**]
+
+<p>[* S. (ABUTILON) TUBULOSA (All. Cunn. MS.); tota velutino-pubescens, foliis
+cordato-ovatis (sinu profundo angusto) sublonge acuminatis dentatoserratis,
+stipulis subulatis flaccidis, pedunculis axillaribus solitariis
+unifloris folio brevioribus, calyce elongato tubuloso 5-fido laciniis
+acuminatis, petalis (flavis) vix duplo brevioribus.--W. J. H.]
+
+<p>[** E. ACUMINATA (Hook. MS.); foliis alternis petiolatis lanceolatis longe
+acuminatis subaristatis penninerviis glaucis reticulatis nervis lateralibus a
+margine remotiusculis, floribus umbellatis (4-6-floris), umbellis
+pedunculatis, calycis tubo hemisphaerico in pedicellum gracilem
+attenuato, calyptra conico-acuminato calycis tubum superante.]
+
+<p>Just as we sat down here, rain came on; the wind changed to S. W. and
+the sky looked more portentous of rainy weather than we had ever seen it
+on this journey. Now this was the first country in which we had any
+reason to dread wet weather, since we crossed the Culgoa about the
+beginning of April. Here rain would render the ground impassable, and
+inundate the country. The mercury in the barometer was falling, and so
+was the rain. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61°; at noon, 62°; at 4 p.m., 57°;
+at 9, 53°;--with wet bulb, 53°.
+
+<p>21ST NOVEMBER.--The wind had shifted from E. to S. W., and the rain
+had set in,--to proceed was quite impossible. The coolness of a cloudy
+day rendered the tent much more agreeable and convenient for finishing
+maps in, than one under the extremely hot sunshine which mine had been
+recently exposed to so long at St. George's Bridge. I had now, therefore,
+a good opportunity of completing the maps. The great heat which had
+prevailed during so many successive days there, portended some such
+change as this; and we were thus likely to be caught in that very region
+so subject to inundation, which I was formerly so careful to avoid, that I
+endeavoured to travel so as to be within reach of a hilly country. For that
+reason chiefly I had proceeded into the interior, by the circuitous route of
+Fort Bourke.
+
+<p>21ST NOVEMBER TO 7TH DECEMBER.--The sky resembled that in
+Poussin's picture of the Deluge; and to one who had contended a whole
+year with scarcity of water, in regions where this coming supply had so
+long been due, the reflection would often occur, that this rain, if it had
+fallen a year sooner, might have expedited that journey very much
+indeed; whereas it was now very likely to retard the return of the party.
+This was the only spot where such a rain could have seriously impeded
+our progress; the waters of the great rivers were sure to come down, and
+we had still to traverse extensive low tracts, where, in 1831, I had seen
+the marks of floods on trees, which had left an impression still remaining
+on my mind, that I thought it very desirable then, to get my party safe out
+of these flats as soon as possible.
+
+<p>On the 28th November, or eight days after the rains set in, the Mooni
+waters came down, at first slowly, but gradually filling up the channel,
+until they rose to such a height, as to oblige me to move three of the
+drays. During the night, the rising inundation began to spread over the
+lower parts of the surface back from the river; while the current came
+down with such rapidity, and, judging from marks of former inundations
+on the trunks of box-trees ("GOBORRA"), it appeared probable the water
+might reach our camp. I therefore determined to move it by daylight to a
+sand-hill, about a quarter of a mile back from the river. This was effected
+in good time, and only in time. Between the camp beside the Mooni, and
+that we afterwards established on the sand-hill, there was a hollow by
+which the rising floods would pass to an extensive tract of low ground
+almost surrounding our camp on the sand-hill, and which would,
+probably, render our passage out of that position difficult, even after the
+waters had subsided. I therefore employed the men in throwing up a dam
+across this hollow, between our hill-camp and the river, so as to prevent
+the inundation from passing that way. We had no better material than
+sand to oppose to this water; yet, by throwing up enough, we succeeded
+in arresting the waters there, although they rose to the height of two feet
+four inches on the upper side of our dam, and gave, to the country above
+it, the appearance of a vast lake, covering our old encampment; so that
+the figures 86 cut on a tree, were the only traces of it that remained above
+water. Our camp on the sand-hill was elevated above the sea 641 feet, or
+about 80 feet higher than the river. The waters continued to rise until the
+2d of December, when they became stationary; and next day they began
+slowly to subside. By the evening of the 5th, they had receded from the
+dam; and the sky, which had been lowering until the 1st, began to present
+clouds of less ominous form. Still the return of clear weather was slow,
+and accompanied by thunder-showers. Plants put forth their blossoms as
+soon as the sun re-appeared; amongst others, the DIDISCUS PILOSUS Benth.;
+a pretty little umbelliferous plant. BOERHAAVIA was again seen here;
+CARISSA OVATA, a shrub three feet high, with spiny branches, and very
+sweet white flowers; the NEPTUNIA GRACILIS also, with the appearance of a
+sensitive plant, was seen in the open flats. It was only on the 7th that a
+crust had been formed on the earth, sufficiently firm for the cattle to
+travel upon; and we embraced the earliest opportunity of quitting that
+camp, where the superabundance of water had detained us seventeen
+days. Musquitoes now tormented us exceedingly, and had obliged us to
+tether the horses at night, to prevent them from straying. We this day
+passed over the soil without finding the wheels to sink much, until we
+arrived at Johnston's station, five miles from our camp, and where I had
+been told the ground was firm. There, on the contrary, we encountered
+the only two swamps at all difficult. Even the drays got through them,
+however, and I gladly quitted the banks of the Mooni, taking a straight
+direction towards the Barwan, and encamped ten miles from the former.
+That central ground between the Mooni and the Barwan, had brigalow
+growing upon it, was firm, and in some hollows we found water. A
+heavy thunder-shower fell at sunset, but we were on such firm soil, that I
+was under no apprehension that it would have the effect of retarding our
+journey.
+
+<p>8TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 69°. Height above the sea,
+782 feet. Having determined our position on the map, I now chose such a
+direction for our homeward route, as would form the most eligible
+general line of communication between Sydney and the Maranòa. It
+seemed desirable that this should cross the Barwan (the Karaula of my
+journey of 1831), some miles above the point where I had formerly
+reached that river; and thus avoid the soft low ground upon the Nammoy,
+falling into my old track about Snodgrass lagoon, or when in sight of
+Mount Riddell. With this view, our latitude being 28° 57' 20" S.,
+longitude 149° 11' E., I chose the bearing of S.S.E. (or rather 23½° E.
+of S.), for my homeward guidance; and this morning I travelled, over a
+good firm surface, for sixteen miles in that direction, when we arrived at
+the bank of the Barwan and there encamped. We had passed through
+some open scrub, chiefly of the rosewood kind, and crossed several small
+grassy plains; saw one or two patches of brigalow, but very little callitris.
+An improvement was visible in the quality of the grass, when we came
+within the distance of about two miles from the river; and open forests or
+plains of richer soil, its usual concomitants, plainly enough indicated the
+presence of the Barwan (or "Darling"). In the country we traversed, we
+saw no cart tracks; but the deep impressions of a few stray cattle,
+apparently pursued by natives, were visible throughout the scrubs. There
+was still a considerable flood in the river, although the water had been
+recently much higher, as was obvious from the state of the banks.
+Latitude, 28° 37' 20" S. Height above the sea, 590 feet.
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-28"></a><img alt="" src="trop-28.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Last use of the boats</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<p>9TH DECEMBER.--All hands were busy this morning in making
+preparations for crossing the Barwan. The boats were soon put together,
+and on reconnoitring the river in one of them, I soon found a favourable
+place for swimming the cattle and horses at, and which was effected
+without accident. The unloaded drays were next drawn through the river
+at the same place; which was about three hundred yards lower down the
+river than that at which we had encamped, and which was marked by the
+number 87, cut on a tree. My former camp on this river in 1831, for want
+of such a mark, could not be recognised. According to my surveys, it
+should have been found seventeen miles lower down the river. All our
+stores and equipment were carried across in the boats. These looked well
+in the water; their trim appearance and utility, then renewed my regret
+that I had not reached the navigable portion of the Victoria, and that its
+channel had been so empty. Perhaps more efficient portable boats never
+were constructed, or carried so far inland undamaged. They were
+creditable to the maker, Mr. Struth of Sydney. By their means, the whole
+party was comfortably encamped this afternoon, on the left bank of the
+Barwan, just before a heavy thunder-shower came down. The river had
+fallen several feet during the day. Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 82°.
+
+<p>10TH DECEMBER.--At 6 a.m. thermometer 68°. The mosquitoes were
+most tormenting; as was well expressed by one of the men outside my
+tent, who remarked to his companion, "That the more you punishes 'em,
+the more they brings you to the scratch:" a tolerable pun for one of "the
+fancy," of which class we had rather too many in the party. The horses,
+although tethered and close spancelled, could not be secured, even thus.
+Some had broken away and strayed during the night. It was ascertained
+by Yuranigh, that four other strange horses were with ours, having come
+amongst them and led them astray. These had broken loose from a neigh-
+bouring station, whence a native came to the men I had left to await the
+horses at the Barwan, and took back the strange horses. I had gone
+forward with the party, still pursuing the same bearing, and came thus
+upon the "Maäl," a channel not usually deep, but, at the time, so full of
+water, with a very slight current in it, that here again we were obliged to
+employ the boats. This channel was distant 5½ miles from where we
+had crossed the Barwan. The bullocks were made to swim across in the
+yokes, drawing the empty drays through, which they accomplished very
+well; "RARÎ NANTES IN GURGITE VASTO." The loads were carried in the boats,
+and the horses taken across, as before. The camp was established at an
+early hour on the left bank of the "Maal," which camp I caused to be
+marked 88, in figures cut on an iron bark tree. Latitude, 29° 1' 20" S.
+This seemed to be the same channel crossed by me on 5th February,
+1832, at a similar distance from the main river.
+
+<p>11TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 7 a.m., 70°. We continued to
+travel homewards on the same bearing; thus tracing with our wheels, a
+direct line of road from Sydney to the northern interior and coast. The
+plains were gay with the blue flowers of a new CYCLOGYNE[*]; a new
+CANTHIUM, was in fruit[**]; and we found also a species of Malva, which
+Sir William Hooker has determined to be MALVA OVATA (Cav.), or scarcely
+differing from that species, except in the rather soft and short hairs to the
+calyx (not long and rigid): the two ends of the curved carpels are equal or
+blunt; but in M. OVATA the upper one is longer and attenuated into a short
+beak. The same plant was found by Frazer along the Brisbane. The
+THYSANOTUS ELATIOR was again found here; and a shrubby CRUCIFEROUS
+plant, quite woody at the base, with very narrow linear setaceous
+pinnatifid leaves,[***] and linear curved torulose silicules. A new HAKEA with
+stout needle like leaves, was also found this day in the scrub. We met
+with no impediment for eighteen miles, when I encamped, although
+without reaching water enough for our cattle. I knew we could not expect
+to meet with any watercourse between the Barwan and the Gwydir;
+which latter river I wished to cross as soon as possible, in hopes then to
+meet with roads and inhabitants. Even cattle-tracks had again become
+rare in this intermediate ground, although the grass was in its best state,
+and most exuberant abundance. We crossed much open plain, and passed
+through several shady forests of casuarina. A curious provision of nature
+for the distribution of the seeds of a parasitical plant was observed here,
+each seed being enclosed within a sort of pulp, like bird-lime, insoluble
+in water; the whole resembling a very thin-skinned berry. On this being
+broken, probably by birds, the bird-lime is apt to attach the seed to trees
+or branches, and so the parasitical growth commences. On the plains, the
+blue flowers of a large variety of MORGANIA GLABRA caught the eye: the
+rare and little known HETERODENDRON OLOEFOLIUM of Desfontaines, a genus
+referred to Soapworts by Mr. Planchon. We found also this day, a new
+POLYMERIA with erect stems, silky leaves, and pink flowers.[****] Height above
+the sea, 554 feet.
+
+<p>[* C. SWAINSONIOIDES (Benth. MS.); foliolis 8-11 anguste oblongis,
+racemis laxis dissitifloris, carina spiraliter contorta.--Habit of a
+SWAINSONIA or LESSERTIA. Flowers blue, as in the original Swan river
+species (C. CANESCENS). That has not a spirally-twisted keel, but the
+structure is indicated both by the circinnate apex of the style, and by a
+slight curl at the summit of the keel.]
+
+<p>[** C. OLEIFOLIUM (Hook. MS.); foliis obovato-oblongis obtusis glaucis basi
+in petiolum gracilem attenuatis, stipulis parvis acutis, fructibus didymis.]
+
+<p>[*** H. LONGICUSPIS (Hook. MS.); rigida glaberrima, ramis junioribus
+subpubescentibus, foliis bi-triuncialibus tereti-filiformibus rigidis strictis
+longe mucronatis, perianthiis glabris, capsulis suboblique ovatis lignosis
+glabris brevi-acuminatis.]
+
+<p>[**** P. LONGIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); erecta, foliis sericeo-nitentibus
+linearilanceolatis auriculatis, pedunculis unifloris foliis multo
+brevioribus.]
+
+<p>12TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 67°. Passing over a
+similar sort of country for some miles (and through a scrub, on first
+leaving the camp), we at length came upon a more open country, where
+the ground seemed to fall southward. Cattle-tracks were again numerous,
+and cow-dung abundant, an article in much request with us just then, its
+smoke being a valuable specific for keeping off the mosquitoes, when a
+little of it was burnt before a tent. We next came upon more spacious
+plains than any we had seen southward of the Balonne; and I recognised,
+with great pleasure and satisfaction, the blue peak of Mount Riddell,
+distant 61 miles. This seemed to peep through the obscurity of fifteen
+laborious years, that had intervened since I had given a name to that
+summit. It now proved the accuracy of my recent survey, appearing
+exactly in the direction, where, according to my maps, I pointed my glass
+to look for it. Like the face of an old friend, which, as the Persian
+proverb says, "brighteneth the eyes," so this required clear eyes to be
+seen at all; even Yuranigh, could not at first be persuaded that it was not
+a cloud. This fine peak must always be a good landmark on these vast
+plains, and may yet brighten the eye of the traveller from India, when
+emerging from the level regions upon the Barwan. We next perceived at
+a distance, a cloud of dust raised by a numerous herd of cattle, and came
+upon a water-course, or branch of the Gwydir, called, I believe, the
+"Meei." As I wanted to cross the Gwydir, I crossed this and continued;
+met with another deep ditch or channel, four miles beyond the Meei; and,
+at three miles beyond that, another: none of these resembling the Gwydir
+I had formerly seen. I had ridden twenty-five miles, and hastened back to
+meet the carts, and encamped them just beyond the first-mentioned of
+these two water-courses. The heavy drays were, of course, far behind.
+Latitude, 29° 34' 41" S. Height above the sea, 553 feet.
+
+<p>13TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 10 a.m., 70°. The drays joined us
+early, having performed an immense distance yesterday. This being
+Sunday, rest for the remainder of the day was both proper and necessary.
+I found we were within a less distance of Snodgrass Lagoon, than we
+were from the camp we had left the previous day. I expected to fall in
+with some road, when we reached the country to which I had formerly
+led the way. At sunset the sky seemed charged with rain, and the
+barometer had fallen 2½ millimetres; much thunder, and but a slight
+shower followed, after which the sky cleared up. Heavy rain there, must
+have caused much difficulty and delay to the party, as we were upon low
+levels subject to inundation. Height above the sea, 499 feet.
+Thermometer, at 6 p.m., 88°.
+
+<p>14TH DECEMBER.--Thermometer, at 6 a.m., 76°. During the night, and
+at day-break, heavy rain pattered on my tent, but a streak of the blue sky
+appeared in the N.W., which increased; and before 7 a.m. the sun shone
+on the ground, and dried it so that we could proceed. We crossed a
+channel of the river, at three miles, which is called the "Moomings;" and
+still I doubted whether we had not yet to cross the main channel of the
+Gwydir, having seen no current in any of those channels I had crossed. I
+had however already crossed the latitude of the river I had formerly seen;
+and, coming soon to rising ground, and seeing before me the wide-spread
+plains of my former journey, I was convinced that the late rains had not
+extended to the Gwydir, and that this river had been crossed by us in
+these several channels. At length, I arrived at the lagoon I had named, in
+former times, after Colonel Snodgrass; thus terminating this journey,
+having travelled in a direct line the last seventy-three miles of it, to meet
+at this point the line from Sydney, traced by me thus far in the year 1831.
+Height above the level of the sea, 545 feet. Thermometer, at 7 p.m., 87°.
+The temporary occupation of the country by squatters, imprints but few
+traces of colonization. Cattle-tracks were visible, certainly, but nothing
+else. No track remained along the line which I had so many years before
+laboured to mark out. Having ordered some of the men to look out for a
+stockman, one was at length caught, and persuaded to come to my tent,
+but not without some apprehension that the people he had come amongst
+so suddenly were robbers. He was a youth, evidently of the Anglo-Saxon
+race, in a state of transition to the condition of an Australian stockman.
+His fair locks strayed wildly from under a light straw hat about the ears
+of an honest English face, and the large stock whip in his hand explained
+what he was about,--"in search of some stray cattle." He had evidently
+never heard of exploring expeditions, past or present; nor of such a name
+as "Snodgrass Lagoon." Mount Riddell was called "Cow hill," according
+to him. Knew there was a road to Maitland, but of Sydney he seemed to
+require some minutes to recal the recollection. He had come from the
+station of Mr.----, where he was employed as stockman. Came out
+from England about six years ago with a brother. When asked if his
+brother was with him, he said "No." To my next question, as to the rest
+of his relatives, a tear was the only reply, and I pushed my inquiries no
+further.
+
+<p>16TH DECEMBER.--I left the camp, accompanied by Mr. Kennedy, and,
+in looking for my old route, we soon arrived at cattle stations. The
+lagoon was full, and the first station we saw was on the opposite bank;
+but having crossed some miles higher, we arrived at one, where the
+master and some men were busy in the stockyard, and there we were
+hospitably received. It was then about 2 p.m., and tea mixed with milk
+was set before us, with a quart pot full of fine salt, and some hard-boiled
+eggs. Having put into my tea a table-spoonful of the salt, mistaking it for
+sugar, and there being no sugar, I had two strong reasons for not taking
+much tea. Fortunately for me, however, I did eat one of the hard-boiled
+eggs, for from that hour I was doomed to fast two days. There I bade Mr.
+Kennedy farewell, leaving him in charge of the party, and proceeded
+along a cart-track homewards, followed by John Douglas, and a led
+horse. Before we could arrive at the station where I intended to halt,
+night overtook us on a plain, with very heavy rain, and total darkness.
+The cart-track was no longer visible, and, after groping on some way
+without it, we were obliged to alight and sit in the mud, without the
+shelter of even a tree, until day-break. Daylight exhibited the station not
+above two miles off, but that did not avail us much; for, on awaking the
+inmates, and asking them for some breakfast, the hut-keeper shook his
+head, and said he had no provisions to spare. Once more I struck away
+from these "abodes of civilized men," to look for my old track, which
+had been traced along the base of the Nundawàr Range, where the bold
+outlines of Mounts Lindesay and Forbes hung dimly, like shadows of the
+past, amongst clouds lighted by beams from the rising sun. After having
+been long in unknown regions, time and distance seem of little
+consequence when we return to those previously known; and thus the
+whole day soon passed in looking for my former track. But I sought it in
+vain; and was glad at night to turn towards the banks of the Nammoy, in
+search of a cattle-station. Since I had first explored that country to which
+my wheel-tracks marked and led the way, station after station had been
+taken up by squatters, not by following any line of route, but rather
+according to the course of the river, for the sake of water; and in such
+cases, the beaten track from station to station, no matter how crooked,
+becomes the road. Thus it is, in the fortuitous occupation of Australia,
+that order and arrangement may precede, and be followed only by "CHAOS
+come again." I arrived about sunset, at Mr. Cyrus Doyle's station near the
+Nammoy, where I was hospitably entertained by a man in charge of it,
+who rode eight miles in twenty minutes only, to borrow some tea and
+sugar for me, and who lived on very friendly terms with some old natives
+who remembered me, and my first advance into that country.
+
+<p>18TH DECEMBER.--At 6 a.m., Thermometer 75°. Height above the sea
+750 feet. Guided by one of these natives, I reached the "great road," saw
+many wool drays upon it, before I arrived at Maule's creek; and I
+endeavoured, for a considerable time, to pass two gentlemen in a gig, and
+wearing veils, who were driving a lot of mares before them, and who
+seemed to derive amusement from making their mares keep pace with
+my entire horse.
+
+<p>The road this day traversed the luxuriant flats of the Nammoy, one of
+the richest districts in the colony, as the fat cattle on the banks of the
+river sufficiently attested. The mountains behind, afforded equally
+eligible runs for sheep. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery,
+amid abundance of water, umbrageous trees, cattle, verdure, and distant
+mountains. I was most comfortably lodged that night at Mr. Wentworth's
+station on the Nammoy, elevated above the sea 1055 feet, and next day I
+reached the dwelling of a resident squatter, and saw a lady in a
+comfortable house near the very spot, where, fifteen years before, I had
+taken a lonely walk by the then unknown Nammoy, the first white man
+permitted there to discover a "flowery desert."[*] I was most kindly
+welcomed by this family; but I asked in vain, even there, to be favoured
+with the perusal of a newspaper. When I expressed anxiety about my
+numerous family, and spoke of my long absence of a year, I observed a
+tear in the lady's eye, which I then thought the product of mere
+sensibility; but I learnt subsequently, that she was aware the newspapers
+she possessed, and out of sympathy withheld, would have apprised me of
+the death of a son, which sad tidings were only communicated to me
+some days after.[**]
+
+<p>[* Three Expeditions, etc., vol. i. p. 54.]
+
+<p>[** He died on the 16th July, at the age of eighteen, from the want of
+medical aid, when surveying, in winter, the Australian Alps. His grave,
+trodden by cattle hoofs, is in a desolate unconsecrated spot. He had
+served the public, gratis, upwards of two years, as a draughtsman and
+surveyor.]</p>
+
+<a name="chapter10"></a>
+<h4>Chapter X.</h4>
+
+<blockquote>MR. KENNEDY CONDUCTS THE PARTY TO SYDNEY.--PROCEEDS OF THE SALE OF THE
+CATTLE AND EQUIPMENT.--APPLIED TO THE REFITTING OF A LIGHT PARTY ON
+HORSEBACK.--MR. KENNEDY'S INSTRUCTIONS TO TRACE DOWN THE VICTORIA.--Of the
+aborigines.--CHARACTER OF YURANIGH.--IMPEDIMENTS TO THEIR
+CIVILIZATION.--Of the Convicts.--THEIR USES IN THE COLONY.--CHARACTER OF
+THOSE OF THE PARTY.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF CRIMINALS.--THE UNFORTUNATE AND
+THE DEPRAVED.--Of the present Colony of New South Wales.--NATURAL STATE.
+--CAPABILITIES.--ITS TEMPORARY USES.--ULTIMATE COLONIZATION.--RETENTION
+OF WATER.--NEW SYSTEMS OF AGRICULTURE REQUISITE.--GROWTH OF COTTON AND
+SUGAR ALONG THE EASTERN COAST.--THE VINE AND THE OLIVE.--WHEAT
+CROPS.--DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO MARKETS.--ROADS.--PROJECTED
+RAILWAYS.--Conclusion.--ORIGIN OF THIS SURVEY.--ITS PRIMARY OBJECTS.
+--ULTIMATE TENDENCY.--MY RESPONSIBILITY TO THE IMPERIAL
+GOVERNMENT.--CO-OPERATION OF THE COLONIAL LEGISLATURE.--FINAL
+REPORT.--GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES.--THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE
+TERRITORY.--PORT BOWEN--CAPRICORNIA.--GULF OF CARPENTARIA--AUSTRALINDIA.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The party which I had left in charge of Mr. Kennedy near Snodgrass
+Lagoon arrived in the neighbourhood of Sydney on the 20th of January,
+and the new Governor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, kindly granted such gratuities
+to the most deserving of my men as I had recommended, and also sent
+the names to England of such prisoners as His Excellency thought
+deserving of Her Majesty's gracious pardon.
+
+<p>The sale of the cattle and equipment produced about 500L.; and as Mr.
+Kennedy volunteered his services, when the proper season should arrive
+(March), to trace down the course of the river Victoria with a light party
+on horseback, I submitted a plan to Sir Charles Fitzroy, and obtained His
+Excellency's permission to send this officer to survey the river, and to
+apply the above-mentioned proceeds of sale in providing the equipment
+of his party. Mr. Kennedy finally left Sydney about the middle of March,
+with a party of eight men, all well mounted and leading spare horses,
+with two light carts carrying a stock of provisions for fourteen months.
+The following copy of his instructions will show what Mr. Kennedy was
+required to do.
+
+<p>* * *
+
+<p>Surveyor-General's Office,<br>
+Sydney, 22d February, 1847.</p>
+
+<p>"Sir,
+
+<p>"His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to sanction my
+proposal for the further exploration of the river Victoria with a small
+party to be sent under your command; I have now the honour to enclose
+to you a copy of instructions by which I was guided in conducting the
+late expedition into the northern interior, and I have to request that you
+will conform thereto, as much as the following particular instructions for
+your especial guidance may permit.
+
+<p>"You will as early as possible return by the road across Liverpool Plains
+so as to fall into the return route of the late expedition before you leave
+the settled districts, and in this manner you will recross the Balonne at St.
+George's Bridge, take the route back to Camp (83), and thence by the
+route along the Maranoa to Camp (XXIX), beyond which you will
+proceed as hereinafter detailed, with reference to the accompanying
+tracing of my survey.
+
+<p>"You will cross the Maranoa at Camp (XXIX), and continue along my
+return route until you reach Camp (75). I beg you will be particular so far
+in looking for the track of my party returning, as you will perceive by the
+map that many very circuitous detours may be thus avoided. But beyond
+Camp (75), about seven miles, you will have to leave my return track on
+your right, and not cross a little river there at all, but go along my old
+advance track to Camp (XXXIV). Thence you will proceed by Camps
+(XXXV) and (XXXVI), in order to approach the bed of the Warregò in
+the direction of my ride of 14th June, in a general N. W. direction. It is
+very desirable that you should keep my horse tracks there; but this I can
+scarcely expect, and I can only therefore request that you will proceed as
+closely in that direction as you can. The bed of the Warregò may be
+looked for at a distance further on, equal to that of my ride of 14th June.
+
+<p>"You will next pursue the course of the Warregò upwards towards
+Mount Playfair, which the accompanying map will be sufficient to guide
+you to. You will follow up the Cùnno Creek, leaving Mount Playfair on
+your right or to the eastward, and you will thus fall into the line of my
+horse-track about the spot where I spoke to an old native female. I wish
+you would then take some pains to travel in the direction of my track
+from the head of Cùnno through the Brigalow, which is comparatively
+open, in the direction of my bivouac of 11th September.
+
+<p>"Keeping the direction of my track of next day, you will arrive at a low,
+but stony, ridge (A) (across which you must be careful how you pass
+your carts, but it is of no breadth), and you will descend into a flat, from
+which you will ascend another stony ridge (B), of no greater height but
+more asperity than the first, and covered with fallen timber. You will
+have about a mile of that sort of difficulty to deal with on the higher part,
+but by turning then to the right, you will fall into a well watered valley,
+which will lead you to the Nive. In the whole of your route thus far, you
+can meet with no difficulty in tracing it, guided by the map, and
+following these instructions; but if Douglas should be with you, he will
+no doubt recognize the country through which he passed with me. It is
+very important that you should keep that route, as leading to the Victoria
+in a very straight direction from Sydney, and a direction in which, should
+your return be delayed beyond the time for which your party is to be
+provisioned, it is probable, that any party sent after you to your aid or
+assistance would proceed to look for you. After you shall have reached
+the Nive and Camp (77), you cannot have any difficulty in finding Camp
+(72) near the Gap, and from that valley you have only to follow down the
+watercourse to be certain that you are on my track to the Victoria, and, as
+you have been instructed to take an expert native with you, you ought to
+find still my horse's track across the downs, cutting off large bends of the
+river. But beyond Camps 16th September or 1st October, you must keep
+by the river along my route back, and not follow the circuitous track
+which I took through Brigalow to the westward. After about four miles
+by the river, you will see, by the map, that my return track again crossed
+the outward track over the downs, so that you may fall into the route
+westward of the great northern bend of the Victoria. I fear you must
+depend on the latitude, pace measurement, and bearings, for ascertaining
+the situations of my camps of 29th September and 28th September. You
+will see by the map how generally straight my journeys were between
+these points, and how important it would be for you to know the situation
+of the camp of 28th September, that you may thence set out westward in
+the direction of my return route, instead of following the main channel
+throughout the very circuitous turn it then takes to the northward.
+Beyond the lowest point attained by me, or the point (wherever that
+may be) to which you will be able to identify the accompanying map
+with my track, of course it will be your duty to pursue the river, and
+determine the course thereof as accurately as your light equipment and
+consequent rapid progress, may permit. You may, however, employ the
+same means by which I have mapped that river so far; and, for your
+guidance, I shall add the particulars of my method of measuring the
+relative distances. If you count the strokes of either of your horse's fore
+feet, either walking or trotting, you will find them to be upon an average,
+about 950 to a mile. In a field-book, as you note each change of bearing,
+you have only to note down also the number of paces (which soon
+becomes a habit); and to keep count of these, it is only necessary to carry
+about thirty-five or forty small pieces of wood, like dice (beans or peas
+would do), in one waistcoat pocket, and, at the end of every 100 paces,
+remove one to the empty pocket on the opposite side. At each change of
+bearing, you count these, adding the odd numbers to the number of
+hundreds, ascertained by the dice, to be counted and returned at each
+change of bearing to the other pocket. You should have a higher pocket
+for your watch, and keep the two lower waisctoat pockets for this
+important purpose.
+
+<p>"Now, to plot such a survey, you have only to take the half-inch scale of
+equal parts (on the 6-inch scale in every case of instruments), and
+allowing TEN for a hundred, the half-inch will represent 1000 paces. You
+may thus lay down any broken number of paces to a true scale, and so
+obtain a tolerably accurate map of each day's journey. The latitude will,
+after all, determine finally the scale of paces; and you can, at leisure,
+adjust each day's journey by its general bearing between different
+latitudes; and, subsequently, introduce the details. You will soon find the
+results sufficiently accurate to afford some criterion of even the variation
+of the needle, when the course happens to be nearly east or west, and
+when, of course, it behoves you to be very well acquainted with the rate
+of your horse's paces, as determined by differences of latitude.
+You will be careful to intersect the prominent points of any range that
+may appear on the horizon; and the nature of the rock also should be
+ascertained in the country examined: small specimens, with letters of
+reference, will be sufficient for this. Specimens of the grasses, and of the
+flower or seed of new trees, should be also preserved, with dates, in a
+small herbarium. But the principal object of the journey being the
+determination of the course of the Victoria, and the discovery of a
+convenient route to the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the
+accomplishment of these great objects must be steadily kept in view,
+without regard to minor considerations. Should the channel finally
+spread into an extensive bed, whether dry or swampy, you will adhere, as
+a general rule, to the eastern side or shore, as, in the event of any scarcity
+of water, the high land known to be there will thus be more speedily
+accessible to you; and I am also strongly of opinion, that you would
+cross in such a route more tributaries from the east than from the west.
+On arriving at or near the Gulph of Carpentaria, I have particularly to
+caution you against remaining longer than may be unavoidable there, or,
+indeed, in any one place, in any part of your route, where natives may be
+numerous.
+
+<p>"Having completed (at least roughly) the map of your general route, it
+will be in your power in returning, to take out detours, and cut off angles,
+by previously ascertaining the proper bearings for doing so; and when so
+returning, it would be convenient to number your camps, that the route
+and the country may be better described by you, and recognised
+afterwards by others. These numbers may be cut in common figures on
+trees; and if, as I hope, you should reach the Gulph, you can commence
+them there: you may prefix C to each number commencing with 1, thus
+avoiding any confusion with the numbers of my numbered camps on the
+Victoria.
+
+<p>"On returning to the colony, you will report to me, or to the officer in
+charge of the Survey Department, the progress and results of your
+journey.
+
+<p>"I have the honour to be,<br>
+Sir,<br>
+Your obedient servant,</p>
+
+<p>"T. L. MITCHELL,<br>
+SURVEYOR-GENERAL.</p>
+
+<p>"E. B. C. Kennedy, Esq. J. P.<br>
+Assistant Surveyor,<br>
+Sydney."</p>
+
+<h5>OF THE ABORIGINES.</h5>
+
+<p>There is no subject connected with New South Wales, or Australia, less
+understood in England than the character and condition of the aboriginal
+natives. They have been described as the lowest in the scale of humanity,
+yet I found those who accompanied me superior in penetration and
+judgment to the white men composing my party. Their means of
+subsistence and their habits, are both extremely simple; but they are
+adjusted with admirable fitness to the few resources afforded by such a
+country, in its wild state. What these resources are, and how they are
+economised by the natives, can only be learnt by an extensive
+acquaintance with the interior; and the knowledge of a few simple facts,
+bearing on this subject, may not be wholly devoid of interest.
+Fire, grass, kangaroos, and human inhabitants, seem all dependent on
+each other for existence in Australia; for any one of these being wanting,
+the others could no longer continue. Fire is necessary to burn the grass,
+and form those open forests, in which we find the large forest-kangaroo;
+the native applies that fire to the grass at certain seasons, in order that a
+young green crop may subsequently spring up, and so attract and enable
+him to kill or take the kangaroo with nets. In summer, the burning of
+long grass also discloses vermin, birds' nests, etc., on which the females
+and children, who chiefly burn the grass, feed. But for this simple
+process, the Australian woods had probably contained as thick a jungle
+as those of New Zealand or America, instead of the open forests in which
+the white men now find grass for their cattle, to the exclusion of the
+kangaroo, which is well-known to forsake all those parts of the colony
+where cattle run. The intrusion therefore of cattle is by itself sufficient to
+produce the extirpation of the native race, by limiting their means of
+existence; and this must work such extensive changes in Australia as
+never entered into the contemplation of the local authorities. The
+squatters, it is true, have also been obliged to burn the old grass
+occasionally on their runs; but so little has this been understood by the
+Imperial Government that an order against the burning of the grass was
+once sent out, on the representations of a traveller in the south. The
+omission of the annual periodical burning by natives, of the grass and
+young saplings, has already produced in the open forest lands nearest to
+Sydney, thick forests of young trees, where, formerly, a man might
+gallop without impediment, and see whole miles before him. Kangaroos
+are no longer to be seen there; the grass is choked by underwood; neither
+are there natives to burn the grass, nor is fire longer desirable there
+amongst the fences of the settler. The occupation of the territory by the
+white race seems thus to involve, as an inevitable result, the extirpation
+of the aborigines; and it may well be pleaded, in extenuation of any
+adverse feelings these may show towards the white men, that these
+consequences, although so little considered by the intruders, must be
+obvious to the natives, with their usual acuteness, as soon as cattle enter
+on their territory. The foregoing journal affords instances of the habits of
+the natives in these respects. Silently, but surely, that extirpation of
+aborigines is going forward in grazing districts, even where protectors of
+aborigines have been most active; and in Van Diemen's Land, the race
+has been extirpated, even before that of the kangaroos, under an agency
+still more destructive.
+
+<p>It would be but natural, even admitting these aboriginal inhabitants to
+be, as men, "only a little lower than the angels," that they should feel
+disposed, when urged by hunger, to help themselves to some of the cattle
+or sheep that had fattened on the green pastures kept clear for kangaroos
+from time immemorial by the fires of the natives and their forefathers;
+but such cases have been, nevertheless, of rare occurrence, partly because
+much human life has been sacrificed to the manes of sheep or cattle. No
+orders of the local government can prevent the perpetration of these
+atrocities. Government Orders have been put forth in formal obedience to
+injunctions from home, and the policy of the local authorities has not
+been influenced by less humane motives.
+
+<p>It would ill become me to disparage the character of the aborigines, for
+one of that unfortunate race has been my "guide, companion, councillor,
+and friend," on the most eventful occasions during this last Journey of
+Discovery. Yuranigh was small and slender in person, but (as the youth
+Dicky said, and I believed,) he was of most determined courage and
+resolution. His intelligence and his judgment rendered him so necessary
+to me, that he was ever at my elbow, whether on foot or horseback.
+Confidence in him was never misplaced. He well knew the character of
+all the white men of the party. Nothing escaped his penetrating eye and
+quick ear. His brief but oracular sentences were found to be SAGE, though
+uttered by one deemed a SAVAGE; and his affection and kindness towards
+the little native Dicky seemed quite paternal. The younger was the
+willing servant of the elder; who obliged him to wash and clean himself
+before he allowed him to sleep near him. Yuranigh was particularly clean
+in his person, frequently washing, and his glossy shining black hair,
+always well-combed, gave him an uncommonly clean and decent
+appearance. He had promised himself and Dicky a great reception on
+returning to Sydney, and was perhaps disappointed. Dicky had never
+before seen houses, and Yuranigh took much delight in showing him the
+theatre, and whatever else was likely to gratify his curiosity.
+The boy was all questions and observation. I was at a loss how to make
+these natives comfortable; or suitably reward their services. The new
+Governor kindly granted the small gratuity asked for Yuranigh, and
+Dicky became a favourite in my family. Both these natives loathed the
+idea of returning to the woods, as savages; and, as if captivated with the
+scenes of activity around them, both expressed a desire "to work and live
+like white men." This shows that, when treated on a footing of equality,
+as these had been in my party, the Australian native MIGHT be induced to
+take part in the labours of white men; but at the first annoyance, the old
+freedom of the bush seems to overmaster their resolutions, and attracts
+them back to it. Yuranigh was engaged (for wages, and under regular
+agreement,) as stockman to a gentleman who had cattle in the north, and
+he took an affecting leave of my family. I carried Dicky to my house in
+the country, with the intention of having him educated there with my
+children, provided A TUTOR COULD BE FOUND, which seemed doubtful when I
+left the colony. It has been long a favourite project with me, to educate
+an aboriginal native, as a husband for Ballandella, and that their children
+should form, at least, one civilized family of the native race, upon which
+the influence of education and religious principles might be fairly tried.
+
+<p>This has never yet been done, although the experiment is one of much
+interest. It seems scarcely practicable, except by withdrawing the married
+couple to another country, where the children might be educated, and
+kept clear of all predilections for a life in the woods. I thought of sending
+such a pair to some congenial climate, such as the South of Europe,
+where they should be taught the whole art of cultivating the grape, fig,
+and olive, as well as the management of other productions of similar
+latitudes in that hemisphere. They might return to Australia with their
+family in ten or twelve years; when, in speaking a different language
+from those about them, they would be less open to the influences that
+interpose between the employers and the employed in that colony; while
+the utility of their employment might be of some benefit to it. Were this
+experiment to succeed, the decent and comfortable condition afforded by
+industry might raise the aborigines in their own estimation, and inspire
+them with hope to attain to a state of equality with the white men, which,
+without having some such examples set before them, must seem to them
+unattainable. The half-clad native finds himself in a degraded position in
+the presence of the white population: a mere outcast, obliged to beg a
+little bread. In his native woods, the "noble savage" knows no such
+degrading necessity.--All there participate in, and have a share of,
+Nature's gifts. These, scanty though they be, are open to all. Experience
+here has proved, and the history of the aborigines of other countries has
+shown, the absurdity of expecting that any men, "as free as Nature first
+made man," will condescend to leave their woods, and come under all
+the restraints imposed by civilisation, purely from choice, unless they can
+do so on terms of the most perfect equality. Surely it behoves the nation
+so active in the suppression of slavery to consider betimes, in taking up
+new countries, how the aboriginal races can be preserved; and how the
+evil effects of spirituous liquors, of gunpowder, and of diseases more
+inimical to them than even slavery, may be counteracted.
+
+<h5>OF THE CONVICTS.</h5>
+
+<p>The prisoners who had hitherto formed the bulk of all the exploring
+parties previously led by me into the interior of New South Wales, were
+chosen chiefly from amongst men employed on the roads, who had
+acquired good recommendations from their immediate overseers; but, on
+this last occasion, the men forming the party were for the most part
+chosen from amongst those still remaining in Cockatoo Island, the worst
+and most irreclaimable of their class.
+
+<p>The concentration of convicts in that island was intended, I believe, to
+follow out the Norfolk Island system, keeping the men under rigorous
+surveillance, and making them work at their respective trades, or as
+labourers. Even there, so near to Sydney, that labour, so available to lay
+the foundations of a colony, might have been employed with great
+advantage, in constructing a naval arsenal and hospital for our seamen on
+the Indian station, with a dry dock attached to it for the repair of
+war-steamers. Such a dock has been long a desideratum at Sydney, and
+private enterprize might, ere this time, have embarked in a work so
+essential to an important harbour, had not the Government always
+possessed the means of cheaply constructing such a work by convict
+labour, and been thus able at any time to have entered into such
+competition as might have been very injurious to a private speculator. At
+Cockatoo Island, blacksmiths, shoemakers, wheelwrights, were at work
+in their various avocations; all the shoes, for both the men and horses of
+the expedition, were made there; also one half of the carts, which proved
+equally good as the other portion, although that was made by the best
+maker in the colony, a celebrated man.
+
+<p>The eagerness evinced by all these men, so confined in irons on
+Cockatoo Island, to be employed in an exploring expedition, was such
+that even the most reckless endeavoured to smooth their rugged fronts,
+and seemed to wish they had better deserved the recommendation of the
+superintendent. The prospect of achieving their freedom, by one year of
+good behaviour in the interior, was cheering to the most depressed soul
+amongst these prisoners. All pressed eagerly forward with their claims
+and pretensions, which, unfortunately for the knowing ones, were strictly
+investigated by Mr. Ormsby the superintendent, and Captain Innes, the
+visiting magistrate. The selection of such as seemed most eligible was at
+length made, after careful examination of the phrenological
+developments and police history of each; and it was not easy to find one
+without a catalogue of offences, filling a whole page of police-office
+annals. Still there were redeeming circumstances, corroborated by
+physical developments, sufficient to guide me in the selection of a party
+from amongst these prisoners. With them, I mixed one or two faithful
+Irishmen, on whom I knew I could depend, and two or three of my old
+followers on former journeys, who had become free.
+
+<p>This party of convicts, so organized, with such strong inducements to
+behave well, and so few temptations to lead them astray, may be
+supposed to have afforded a favourable opportunity for studying the
+convict character. It may be asked by some, how such a party could have
+been made to yield submissive obedience for so long a period as a year,
+away from all other authority, than mere moral controul. This was
+chiefly because these men were placed in a position where it was so very
+clearly for their own interest to conduct themselves properly.
+Accordingly, the greater number, as on all former expeditions, gave the
+highest satisfaction, submitting cheerfully to privations, enduring
+hardships, and encountering dangers, apparently willing and resolved to
+do anything to escape from the degraded condition of a convict. But still
+there were a few, amounting in all to six, who, even in such a party,
+animated by such hopes, could not divest themselves of their true
+character, nor even disguise it for a time, as an expedient for the
+achievement of their liberty. These men were known amongst the rest as
+the "flash mob." They spoke the secret language of thieves; were ever
+intent on robbing the stores, with false keys (called by them SCREWS).
+They held it to be wrong to exert themselves at any work, if it could be
+avoided; and would not be seen to endeavour to please, by willing cooperation.
+They kept themselves out of sight as much as possible;
+neglected their arms; shot away their ammunition contrary to orders; and
+ate in secret, whatever they did kill, or whatever fish they caught.
+
+<p>Professing to be men of "the Fancy," they made converts of two
+promising men, who, at first, were highly thought of, and although one of
+them was finally reclaimed, a hero of the prize ring, it was too obvious
+that the men, who glory in breaking the laws, and all of whose songs
+even, express sentiments of dishonesty, can easily lead the unwary and
+still susceptible of the unfortunate class, into snares from which they
+cannot afterwards escape if they would. Once made parties to an offence
+against the law, they are bound as by a spell, to the order of flash-boys,
+with whom it is held to be base and cowardly to act "upon the square," or
+HONESTLY in any sense of the word; their order professing to act ever
+"upon the cross." These men were so well-known to the better disposed
+and more numerous portion of the party, that the night-guards had to be
+so arranged, as that the stores or the camp should never be entirely in
+their hands. Thus a watch was required to be set as regularly over the
+stores, when the party was close to Sydney, as when it was surrounded
+by savage tribes in the interior.
+
+<p>Between the "flash men" and the other men of the party, there was a
+wide difference: An old man to whom they once offered some stolen
+flour, refused it, saying, "I have been led into enough of trouble in my
+younger days, by flash friends, and now I wish to lead a quiet life."
+Convicts, in fact, consist of two distinctly different classes: the one,
+fortunately by far the most numerous, comprising those whose crime was
+the result of impulse; the other class consisting of those whose principle
+of action is dishonesty; whose trade is crime, and of whose reformation,
+there is much less hope. The offenders of the one class, repented of their
+crime from the moment of conviction; those of the other, know no such
+word in their vocabulary. The one, is still "a thing of hope and change;"
+and would eagerly avail himself of every means afforded him to regain
+the position he had lost; the other, true to his "order," will "die game."
+For the separation of the wheat from the chaff, a process by no means
+difficult, the colony of New South Wales was formerly well adapted. The
+ticket of leave granted to the deserving convict was one of the most
+perfect of reformatory indulgences; each individual being known to the
+authorities, and liable, on the least misconduct, to be sent to work on the
+public roads. The colony of New South Wales has been the means of
+restoring many of our unfortunate countrymen to positions in which they
+have shown that loyalty, industry, public spirit, and patriotism, are not
+always to be extinguished in the breasts of Englishmen, even by fetters
+and degradation. It is to be regretted that a more vigilant discrimination
+had not interposed a more marked line between those convicts deserving
+emancipation, and those whose services are still wanted on the roads and
+bridges of the colony.
+
+<h5>OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.</h5>
+
+<p>There is no country in which labour appears to be more required to
+render it available to, and habitable by, civilised men, than New South
+Wales or Australia. Without labour, the inhabitants must be savages, or,
+at least, such helpless people as we find the aborigines. The squatters'
+condition is intermediate, temporary, and one of necessity. That country
+without navigable rivers, intersected by rocky ranges, and subject to
+uncertain seasons, is unfavourable to agriculture and trade; to social
+intercourse, and to the moral and physical prosperity of civilised man.
+With equal truth, it may be observed, that there is no region of earth
+susceptible of so much improvement, solely by the labour and ingenuity
+of man. If there be no navigable rivers, there are no unwholesome
+savannas; if there are rocky ranges, they afford, at least, the means of
+forming reservoirs of water; and, although it is there uncertain when rain
+may fall, it is certain that an abundant supply does fall; and the hand of
+man alone is wanting to preserve that supply and regulate its use. In such
+a clime, and under such a sun, that most important of elements in
+cultivation, water, could thus be rendered much more subservient to
+man's use than it is in other warm regions, where, if the general
+vegetation be more luxuriant, the air is less salubrious. Sufficient water
+for all purposes of cultivation, health, and enjoyment, is quite at the
+command of art and industry in this most luxuriant of climates. Thus, the
+peculiar disadvantages Australia presents in her wild state, are such as
+would greatly enhance the value of such a country under the operation of
+human industry. In such a climate, for instance, an abundance of water
+would be found a much greater luxury when retained, distributed, and
+adjusted, by such means, to man's uses, than where an abundance is but
+the natural product of cloudy skies and frequent rains. Where natural
+resources exist, but require art and industry for their development, the
+field is open for the combination of science and skill, the profitable
+investment of capital, and the useful employment of labour. Such is New
+South Wales.
+
+<p>But the age of such adaptations there is still to come. The future is too
+much speculated upon; hence no system of agriculture has been yet
+adjusted to the peculiarities of climate and soil. Instead of studying and
+adopting the agriculture of similar climates, and the arts by which
+deficiencies in similar latitudes have from time immemorial been
+corrected: irrigation, for instance, has not been yet attempted; the natural
+fertility of the soil has alone been relied on, to compensate, in
+favourable, seasons, for the deficiencies of others, not favourable,
+perhaps, for the growth of wheat or barley, but the best imaginable for
+that of other kinds of productions. So generally available is the structure
+of the country for the reservation of water by dams, that a small number
+of these might be made to retain as much of the surface water as might
+even impart humidity to the atmosphere. This is because the channels of
+rivers are in general confined by high banks, within which many, or
+indeed most of them, might be converted by a few dams into canals. To
+such great purposes convict labour ought to have been applied, had it
+been possible to have allowed colonization and transportation to work
+together. But the undulations of the land present everywhere facilities for
+constructing reservoirs, which heavy showers would fill, and thus afford
+means sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were not labour now too
+scarce there, to admit of the progress of colonization in a manner suitable
+to the spirit of the age, and character of the nation.
+
+<p>The rich lands along the eastern coast, under a lofty range which
+supplies abundance of water for the purposes of irrigation, are well
+adapted for the cultivation of cotton and sugar, and, with labour, nothing
+could prevent these regions from being made extensively productive of
+both articles. Of the vine and the olive[*], it remains to be ascertained
+whether some parts of the country may not be made as productive as
+Andalusia, for instance, is, in the same parallel of latitude, in the opposite
+hemisphere. The want of hands alone retards the development of every
+branch of production derivable from industry in these regions.
+
+<p>[* Five months ago, soon after my return to England, I gave to the Society
+of Arts two bottles of olive oil, the first samples ever produced, I believe,
+in Australia. The oil was made by Mr. Kid, superintendent of the Botanic
+garden at Sydney, from olives grown there, and seemed very clear and
+good.]
+
+<p>Settled districts, back from the coast, at elevations of 1000 feet and
+upwards, have produced abundant crops of wheat of very superior
+quality; and, but for the non-completion of the roads between these
+districts and the capital, in consequence of the withdrawal of convict
+labour, the progress of agriculture in its adaptation to the soil and
+climate, and, as a field for the employment of British immigrants, had
+been much more advanced than it is there.
+
+<p>The roads which were opened by the above means, or proposed to be
+opened, have become almost impassable, or remain wholly so; and it is,
+therefore, the less surprising that the colonists look to the possible
+introduction of railways with much interest. In a country like that around
+Sydney, where extensive tracts of inferior land must be traversed by
+roads in order to arrive at lands which are productive and settled, the
+value and importance of a railway would be greatly enhanced; and
+calculations have been made to show that a railway between Sydney and
+the southern districts would pay, even from the traffic at present along
+that line. The town of Goulburn, 124 miles from Sydney, in an open
+undulating country, at a considerable height above the sea, is rapidly
+growing into importance; and, by making either a good road or a railway,
+between that town and Sydney, access would be gained to very extensive
+tracts of valuable territory, easily traversed, and to which Goulburn is a
+sort of centre.
+
+<p>On the whole, it may be said that the difficulty of access to the best
+lands, from the want of good roads to them from the principal port, has,
+of late years, greatly impeded the introduction of immigrants to the rural
+districts, and added to the population of Sydney many individuals who
+had been brought to the colony at the public expense, for the assistance
+of settlers in the country.</p>
+
+<h5>CONCLUSION.</h5>
+
+<p>The employment of convicts on useful public works was, twenty years
+ago, a primary object with the government of New South Wales. The
+location of settlers on their grants by the measurement of their farms,
+then much in arrear, and the division of the territory into counties,
+hundreds, and parishes, in order to complete the deeds of grant to
+settlers, altogether rendered necessary a general survey of the colony,
+which work I commenced in 1827, EX OFFICIO, and, pursuant to Royal
+Instructions, sent to the colony in 1825. The time between the years 1827
+and 1837 was the most prosperous in the history of the colony of New
+South Wales, when convicts made good roads, farms were measured up,
+and the country was surveyed and divided into countries. Colonization
+extended rapidly to the shores of the southern ocean, and Australia Felix
+was made known to the British public.
+
+<p>The survey touched the limits of the then unknown country, for the
+direction of great roads from a centre could not be considered permanent,
+however limited the colony, without such consideration of their ultimate
+tendency as could only be given with a knowledge of the whole
+intervening country. My plans of exploration have been governed by
+these views and objects, and the journey recorded in these pages was
+intended to complete the last of three lines radiating from Sydney. One
+led across the Blue mountains to Bathurst and the western interior as far
+as the land seemed worth exploring; another by Goulburn to Australia
+Felix and the southern coast; and, lastly, this, the third general route, to
+the northern shores at the nearest point, the head of the Gulf of
+Carpentaria,--from which I trust that by this time my assistant Mr.
+Kennedy will have returned to Sydney.
+
+<p>Held responsible by the Government for the performance of such a
+duty[*], I have endeavoured to work out its views with that unity of plan
+which must result from a mathematical principle, and which has enabled
+me to bring to a satisfactory conclusion, after the lapse of many years,
+and in the face of considerable difficulty, an undertaking commenced at
+the command of my Sovereign, and under the auspices of the British
+Government. That the Royal Instructions were originally intended for the
+benefit of the colony of New South Wales is best evinced by the fact that
+this journey of survey and exploration has been undertaken on the
+petition of the Legislative Council of the Colony, and performed wholly
+at the expense of the colony of New South Wales.
+
+<p>[* Appendix, Letter No. 30/1252., page 431.]
+
+<p>It now remains for me to submit my final "Report," or, in other words,
+to point out how the geographical knowledge thus acquired may be
+available for the economical extension of that colonisation which the
+expansive energies of this great nation seem to require. New South
+Wales may be benefited, it is true, by the establishment of any additional
+market on the eastern coast, for her produce; and by a road to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria; but a timely knowledge of the structure of the interior was
+necessary to enable the Government to determine on the sites most
+eligible for centres of colonisation required along the coast.
+It is now ascertained that a great range separates the coast settlements
+from the open pastoral country of the interior, as far as the parallel of 25°
+south. That there it breaks off at the lofty plateau of Buckland's Table
+Land, which overlooks a much lower country in the north;--a country
+but lightly wooded, watered by good rivers, and which affords an easy
+access to extensive pastoral regions in the interior, without the
+intervention of any such formidable barrier between that interior open
+country and the coast, as the great range nearer the actual colony.
+Precisely on that part of the coast, to which the united channels of the
+water lead, a harbour has been surveyed and approved of by competent
+naval officers. These geographical facts, therefore, render it easy to
+define one situation more favourable than any other that might be found
+along that coast, for the nucleus of a colony, and which would divide
+almost equally the whole coast line between Sydney and Cape York. I
+allude to Port Bowen, near Broad Sound; and the river Nogoa, which has
+been (I believe) called lower down, the Mackenzie. A port on that part of
+the coast, at the entrance within the reefs, would be advantageous to
+steam navigation. The occupation of the fine country on the rivers
+Victoria, Salvator and Claude, must depend on some such sea-port for
+supplies; and on the occupation of that back-country must again, in a
+great measure, depend the establishment of a direct line of
+communication between Sydney and the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+<p>At the head of that gulf, admitting that a practicable and direct line of
+route can be opened to it, the country, and the sea adjacent, may soon
+require attention. By timely examination and good arrangement, a
+commodious place of embarkation may be established there, which
+might, by degrees, become an important town; where horses might be
+shipped and conveyed by a short passage to India, free from the hazards
+of Torres Straits. It would appear from the brief but intelligible
+description by Captain Flinders, that Wellesley Islands, or Sweer's
+Island, being both higher than the main land, might be connected with it,
+by some permanent work, and thus afford a good port for steamers, and
+shelter and anchorage for other ships. According to the interesting
+narrative of Captain Stokes, the temperature is remarkably low, and
+convict labour might there be very usefully employed upon such works.
+The head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, being that part of the Indian
+Ocean nearest to Sydney, has appeared of more importance to the
+colonists, since steam navigation became regular between England and
+the Indian archipelago. Then it became more desirable for the colonists
+to know the nature of the interior country between their capital and that
+northern coast. The interior has been found very open and accessible; the
+fine country at the head of the Victoria must soon be occupied, and thus
+divide the whole distance into two equal parts, each of these not much
+exceeding the distance between Sydney and Melbourne, in Australia
+Felix; between which places mail-carriages now run twice a week.
+Thus, while, by the extension of geographical research, the proper
+fields for colonization are laid open for selection, and prepared for timely
+arrangements on the part of the Imperial Government; the colonists of
+New South Wales have promoted the general interests of their fellow
+subjects at home, by the developement of the resources of the territory
+around them.
+
+<p>He "who measured out the sea in the hollow of his hand, and weighed
+the earth in a balance," has determined, by the condition of these two
+elements, the situation of the Gulf, and that of the great break in the East
+Coast range--the one affording the nearest access to an important sea,
+the other the easy way to a rich interior land. I would, with deference to
+Him, "who led Israel like a flock," and me in safety through the
+Australian wilds, distinguish the two regions by timely descriptive names
+on the map I now lay before the public; Capricornia, to express the
+country under the tropics, from the parallel of 25° South, where nature
+has set up her own land-marks, not to be disputed: Australindia, the
+country on the shores of the most southern part of the Indian archipelago;
+which two regions may be made conterminous according to natural
+limits, when such limits can be accurately ascertained.</p>
+
+<center>
+<p><a name="trop-29"></a><img alt="" src="trop-29.jpg"></p>
+<p><b>Map VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries</b></p>
+</center>
+
+<a name="appendix"></a>
+<h4>APPENDIX.</h4>
+
+<p>The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor-General of New South Wales.<br>
+No. 30/1252.<br>
+Colonial Secretary's Office, October 28. 1830.</p>
+
+<p>Sir,
+
+<p>I have the honour, by the direction of His Excellency the Governor, to
+inform you that the Right Honourable the Secretary of State has been
+pleased to signify the King's instructions for the discontinuance of the
+office of the Commissioners appointed to survey and value the lands of
+the Colony, and His Majesty's commands that the performance of their
+duties is for the future to be entrusted to the Surveyor-General, who, with
+the aid of the Assistant Surveyors, will be held responsible for all
+arrangements connected with the survey and division of the territory.</p>
+
+<p>I have the honour to be,<br>
+Sir,<br>
+Your most obedient servant,</p>
+
+<p>ALEX. M'LEAY.
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>To T.L. Mitchell, Esquire,<br>
+Surveyor-General.
+
+<p>* * * * *</p>
+
+<h4>A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FOREGOING JOURNEY.</h4>
+
+<p>THOSE MARKED * ARE NEW.
+
+<p>[numerals refer to page numbers in the book]
+
+<pre>
+FERNS.
+
+Adiantum hispidulum, 204, 212.
+----assimile, 204. 212.
+Nothochlaena distans, 212.
+Grammitis rutaefolia, 212.
+Cheilanthes tenuifolia, 212.
+Doodia caudata, 212.
+Platyzoma microphyllum, 236.
+
+
+GRASSES.
+
+Aristida calycina, 33.
+Arundo Phragmites, 124.
+* Anthistiria membranacea, LINDL. 88.
+----australis PASSIM.
+----sp. 97.
+Andropogon sericeus, 62.
+----bombycinus, 378.
+----sp. 117.
+Bromus australis, 61.
+* Chloris selerantha, LINDL. 31.
+----acicularis LINDL. 33.
+Dactyloctenium radulans, 88.
+Danthonia pectinata, 319.
+----* triticoides LINDL. 365.
+Erianthus, fulvo aff. 62.
+Imperata arundinacea, 60. 349.
+Lappago biflora, 364.
+Neurachne Mitchelliana, 33.
+Perotis rara, 139.
+Panicum laevinode 60. AND PASSIM.
+Pappophorum gracile, 319.
+----* avenaceum LINDL. 320.
+----* virens, LINDL. 360.
+----* flavescens, LINDL. 34.
+* Stipa scabra, LINDL. 31.
+* Sporobolus pallidus, LINDL. 187.
+Triodia pungens, 177. 340.
+Triraphis mollis, 88.
+
+
+SEDGES.
+
+Cyperus, sp. bulbosa. 124.
+----sp. 120.
+Kyllinga monocephala, 100.
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS ENDOGENS.
+
+Damasonium ovalifolium, 31.
+Xerotes laxa, 361.
+----leucocephala, 198.
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, 378.
+* Pterostylis Mitchellii, LINDL. 3
+Commelina undulata, 347.
+Thysanotus elatior, 347.
+Tricoryne elatior, 387.
+Laxmannia gracilis, 365.
+Dianella rara, 366.
+----strumosa, 341.
+
+
+GYMNOGENS.
+Zamia, 209.
+Callitris sp. n. 187.
+----glauca, 298.
+----pyramidalis, 93.
+
+
+SPURGEWORTS (EUPHORBIACEAE).
+
+* Adriania acerifolia, HOOKER, 371.
+----* heterophylla, HOOKER, 124.
+Beyeria, sp. n. 390.
+Bertya oleaefolia, 290.
+Euphorbia hypericifolia? 265.
+----* eremophila, A. CUNN. 348.
+Hylococcus sericeus, 389.
+* Micrantheum triandrum, HOOKER, 342.
+Phyllanthus simplex? 106.
+
+
+CUCURBITS.
+
+Cucumis pubescens, 110.
+
+
+BIXADS (FLACOURTIACEAE).
+
+* Melicytus? oleaster, LINDL. 383.
+
+
+FRANKENIADS.
+
+* Frankenia scabra, LINDL. 305.
+----* serpyllifolia, LINDL. 305.
+
+
+CAPPARIDS.
+
+* Capparis umbonata, LINDL. 257.
+----* loranthifolia, LINDL. 220.
+----lasiantha, 102.
+----Mitchellii, 36.
+Cleome flava, 127.
+
+
+STERCULIADS.
+
+Brachychiton populneum, 355.
+* Delabechea rupestris MITCHELL, 155.
+
+
+BYTTNEBIADS.
+
+* Keraudrenia integrifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+
+MALLOWWORTS.
+
+Hibiscus Lindleyi? 260.
+----* Sturtii, HOOKER, 363.
+Fugosia digitata? 387.
+----sp. 64.
+Malva ovata, 397.
+* Sida Frazeri, HOOKER, 368.
+----pisiformis, 362.
+----* virgata, HOOKER, 361.
+----filiformis, A. CUNN. 361.
+----tubulosa, CUNN. 390.
+----sp. n. 103.
+
+
+LINDENBLOOMS (TILIACEAE).
+
+Grewia Richardiana, 383.
+
+
+MILKWORTS (POLYGALACEAE).
+
+* Comesperma sylvestris, LINDL. 342.
+
+
+SOAPWORTS (SAPINDACEAE).
+
+Thouinia australis, 390.
+* Dodonaea acerosa, LINDL. 273.
+----* filifolia, HOOKER, 241.
+----* hirtella, 191.
+----* mollis, LINDL. 212.
+----* peduncularis, LINDL. 340. 361.
+----* pubescens, LINDL. 342.
+----* tenuifolia, LINDL. 248.
+----* trigona, LINDL. 236.
+----* triangularis, 219.
+----* vestita, HOOKER, 265.
+
+
+DILLENIADS.
+
+Pleurandra ericifolia, 362.
+----* cistoidea, HOOKER, 363.
+Hibbertia canescens, 339.
+
+
+CROWFOOTS (RANUNCULACEAE).
+
+Clematis stenophylla, 368.
+Ranunculus plebeius, 362.
+----sessiliflorus, 361.
+
+
+PITTOSPORADS.
+
+* Bursaria incana, LINDL. 224.
+* Pittosporum salicinum, LINDL. 97.
+----lanceolatum, 272.
+
+
+EPACRIDS.
+
+Leucopogon cuspidatus, 226.
+
+
+CITRONWORTS (AURANTIACEAE).
+
+* Triphasia glauca, LINDL. 353.
+
+
+RUEWORTS (RUTACEAE).
+
+* Boronia bipinnata, LINDL. 225.
+----* eriantha, LINDL. 298.
+* Eriostemon rhombeum, LINDL. 293.
+* Geijera parviflora, LINDL. 102.
+----* latifolia, LINDL. 236.
+----* pendula, LINDL. 251.
+Heterodendron oleaefolium, 398.
+* Pilotheca ciliata, HOOKER, 347.
+* Phebalium glandulosum, HOOKER, 199.
+* Zieria Frazeri, HOOKER, 339.
+
+
+CRANESBILLS (GERANIACEAE).
+
+Geranium parviflorum? 362.
+Erodium littoreum? 360.
+
+
+PURSLANES (PORTULACACEAE).
+
+* Calandrinia balonensis, LINDL. 148.
+----* pusilla, LINDL. 360.
+
+
+BUCKWHEATS (POLYGONACEAE).
+
+Polygonum acre, 149.
+----junceum, 85.
+
+
+NYCTAGOS.
+
+Boerhaavia mutabilis, 362.
+
+
+AMARANTHS.
+
+Amaranthus undulatus, 102.
+Alternanthera nodiflora, 35.
+----sp. 341.
+Nyssanthes? 360.
+* Trichinium semilanatum, LINDL. 45.
+----Janatum, 33. 88.
+----* conicum, LINDL. 363.
+----fusiforme, 383.
+----alopecuroideum, 88. 91.
+
+
+CHENOPODS.
+
+Ambrina carinata, 127.
+* Atriplex nummularia, LINDL. 64.
+----elaeagnoides, 29
+Atriplex semibaccata, 23.
+* Chenopodium auricomum, LINDL. 94.
+Enchylaena tomentosa, 102.
+Kochia brevifolia, 33. 67.
+----* thymifolia, LINDL. 56.
+----* lanosa, LINDL. 88.
+----* villosa, LINDL. 91.
+Rhagodia parabolica, 53.
+Salsola australis, 24, etc.
+Seleroaena uniflora, 72.
+* Suaeda tamariscina, LINDL. 239.
+
+
+FICOIDS.
+
+Mesembryanthemum, sp. 315.
+
+
+DAPHNADS.
+
+Pimelea linifolia? 340.
+----* trichostachya, LINDL. 355.
+----colorans, 362.
+Exocarpus aphylla, 118.
+----spartea, 135.
+
+
+PROTEADS.
+
+* Conospermum sphacelatum, HOOKER, 342.
+* Grevillea Mitchellii, HOOKER, 265.
+----* juncifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+----floribunda, 212.
+----* longistyla, HOOKER, 343.
+----sp. 276.
+* Hakea longicuspis, HOOKER, 397.
+----* purpurea, HOOKER, 348.
+
+
+DODDER LAURELS (CASSYTHACEAE).
+
+Cassytha pubescens, 362.
+
+
+LEGUMINOUS PLANTS.
+
+Acacia conferta, 174. 289.
+----Cunninghamii, 204.
+----doratoxylon, 289.
+----delibrata, 258.
+----decora, 359. var. 223.
+----* excelsa, BENTH. 225.
+----Farnesiana, 256.
+----falcata, 221.
+Acacia holosericea, 256.
+----Simsii, 256.
+----leucadendron, 258.
+----* longespicata, BENTH. 298.
+----ixiophylla, 204.
+----leptoclada, var. 95.
+----* macradenia, BENTH. 360.
+----neriifolia, 386.
+----pendula, PASSIM.
+----pennifolia, 361.
+----podalyriifolia, 221.
+----* pinifolia, BENTH. 342.
+----stenophylla, 81.
+----spectabilis, 353.
+----salicina, 56.
+----triptera, 291.
+----* varians, BENTH. 132.
+----* Victoriae, BENTH. 333.
+----* uncifera, BENTH. 341.
+----viscidula, 340.
+* Aotus mollis, BENTH. 236.
+* Bossiaea carinalis, BENTH. 290.
+----rhombifolia, 294.
+* Cassia circinata, BENTH. 384.
+----* coronilloides, CUNN. 384.
+----* zygophylla, BENTH. 288.
+----sophera, 390.
+----occidentalis, 378.
+----heteroloba, 251.
+* Crotalaria dissitiflora, BENTH. 386.
+----* Mitchellii, BENTH. 120.
+* Cyclogyne swainsonioides, BENTH. 397.
+* Daviesia filipes, BENTH. 363.
+* Erythrina vespertilio, BENTH. 218.
+* Gompholobium foliosum, BENTH. 348.
+Hardenbergia monophylla, 236.
+Hovea lanceolata, 212.
+----* leiocarpa, BENTH. 289.
+* Indigofera brevidens, BENTH. 385.
+----hirsuta, 122.
+* Jacksonia ramosissima, BENTH. 258.
+----scoparia, 339.
+* Kennedya procurrens, BENTH. 365.
+Labichea rupestris, BENTH. 342.
+* Labich ea digitata, BENTH. 273.
+* Leptocyamus latifolius, BENTH. 361.
+* Lotus laevigatus, BENTH. 62.
+----australis, var. 348.
+Neptunia gracilis, 362.
+* Psoralea eriantha, BENTH. 131.
+Sesbania aculeata? 106.
+* Swainsona phacoides, BENTH. 363.
+Vigna, an capensis? 339.
+----* lanceolata, BENTH. 350.
+----* suberecta, BENTH. 388.
+
+
+ROSEWORTS.
+
+Rubus parvifolius, 351.
+
+
+LOOSESTRIFES (LYTHRACEAE).
+
+Lythrum Salicaria, 62.
+
+
+RHAMNADS.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, 201.
+Cryptandra propinqua, 223.
+* Ventilago viminalis, HOOKER, 369.
+
+
+SPINDLE TREES (CELASTRACEAE).
+
+* Catha Cunninghamii, HOOKER, 387.
+* Elaeodendron maculosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+
+STACKHOUSIADS.
+
+Stackhousia muricata, 362.
+
+
+DOGBANES (APOCYNACEAE).
+
+Carissa ovata, 393.
+Tabernaemontana, sp. 341.
+* Doobàh, 85.
+
+
+LOGANIADS.
+
+* Logania cordifolia, HOOKER, 341.
+
+
+GENTIANWORTS.
+
+Erythraea australis, 366.
+
+
+OLIVEWORTS.
+
+Notclaea punctata, 352.
+
+
+NIGHTSHADES (SOLANACEAE).
+
+Nicotiana suaveolens, 64.
+Solanum ellipticum, 215.
+----furfuraceum, 212.
+----biflorum, 362.
+----violaceum, 365.
+----sp. 85.
+
+
+BINDWEEDS.
+
+* Polymeria longifolia, 398.
+Convolvulus erubescens, 353.
+Evolvulus, sericeo aff., 386.
+----linifolius, 339.
+
+
+LEADWORTS.
+
+Plumbago zeylanica, 219.
+
+
+RIBWORTS (PLANTAGINACEAE).
+
+Plantago varia, 352.
+
+
+JASMINWORTS.
+
+* Jasminum suavissimum, LINDL. 355.
+----lineare, 94.
+----* Mitchellii, LINDL. 365.
+
+
+EHRETIADS.
+
+Halgania, sp. 24.
+
+
+BORAGEWORTS.
+
+* Trichodesma sericeum, LINDL. 258.
+
+
+BRUNONIADS.
+
+Brunonia sericea, 341.
+----simplex? 360.
+----* simplex, LINDL. 82.
+
+
+LABIATES.
+
+Ajuga australis, var., 236. 347.
+* Mentha grandiflora, BENTH., 362.
+Moschosma polystachya, 137.
+Plectranthus parviflorus, 347.
+* Prostanthera odoratissima, BENTH., 291.
+----* ringens, BENTH., 363.
+----* euphrasioides, BENTH., 360.
+Teucrium recemosum, 31.
+----argutum, 198.
+Salvia plebeia, 366.
+
+
+VERBENES.
+
+Chloanthes stoechadis, 298.
+Vitex, sp. n., 212.
+
+
+MYOPORADS.
+
+* Eremophila Mitchelli, BENTH., 31.
+* Myoporum dulce, 253.
+----Cunninghamii, 214.
+* Stenochilus pubiflorus, BENTH., 273.
+----* salicinus, BENTH., 251.
+----* curvipes, BENTH., 221.
+----* bignoniaeflorus, BENTH., 386.
+
+
+BIGNONIADS.
+
+Tecoma Oxleyi, 291.
+
+
+ACANTHADS.
+
+Justicia media, 31. 89. 361.
+----ascendens, 97.
+Ruellia australis, 353.
+
+
+FIGWORTS (SCROPHULARIACEAE).
+
+Morgania floribunda, 62. 384.
+Veronica plebeia, 360.
+
+
+GOODENIADS.
+
+Dampiera adpressa, 339.
+Goodenia pulchella, 339.
+----* flagellifera, DE VRIESE, 378.
+----coronopifolia, 359.
+----geniculata, 72.
+* Linschotenia bicolor, DE VRIESE, 340. 345.
+* Velleya macrocalyx, DE VRIESE, 258.
+
+
+COMPOSITES.
+
+Brachycome, heterodontae prox., 62.
+* Calotis scapigera, HOOKER, 75.
+----cuneifolia, 28.
+* Calocephalus gnaphalioides, HOOKER., 378.
+* Eurybia subspicata, HOOKER, 293.
+Eurybiopsis macrorhiza, 359.
+Erechthites arguta, 225.
+* Ethulia Cunninghami, HOOKER, 62.
+* Flaveria australasica, HOOKER, 118.
+Helichrysum bracteatum, 79.
+----* ramosissimum, HOOK., 83.
+----semipapposum, 389.
+----odorum? 362.
+Helipteres anthemoides, 349.
+----* glutinosa, HOOK., 361.
+Minuria heterophylla, 64.
+Monenteles redolens, 263.
+* Myriogyne racemosa, HOOK., 353.
+Ozothamnus diosmaefolius, 347.
+Podolepis acuminata? 289.
+----rugata? 362.
+----longipedunculata, 362.
+Pycnosorus globosus, 353.
+Rutidosis helichrysoides, 78.
+----* arachnoidea, HOOK., 341.
+Senecio carnosulus? 360.
+----Cunninghami, 45.
+----brachylaenus, 62.
+Sphaeranthus hirtus 212.
+
+
+HIPPURIDS (HALORAGACEA).
+
+* Haloragis aspera, LINDL., 306.
+----* glauca, LINDL., 91.
+* Myriophyllum verrucosum, LINDL. 384.
+
+
+MYRTLE BLOOMS (MYRTACEAE).
+
+Angophora lanceolata, 81.
+* Callistemon nervosum, LINDL. 235.
+Eucalyptus sideroxylon, 339.
+----* acuminatus, HOOK. 390.
+Eucalyptus pulverulento aff. 91.
+----* melissiodorus, LINDL., 235.
+----* citriodorus, HOOKER, 235.
+----* populifolius, HOOKER, 204.
+----bicolor, 390.
+----* viminalis, HOOKER, 157.
+* Leptospermum sericatum, LINDL. 298.
+* Melaleuca trichostachya, LINDL. 277.
+----* tamariscina, HOOKER, 262.
+Schidiomyrtus tenellus, 340.
+* Tristania angustifolia, HOOK. 198.
+
+
+CINCHONADS.
+
+Canthium sp. 386.
+----* oleifolium, HOOKER, 397.
+Pomax hirta, 340.
+
+
+STELLATES.
+
+Asperula? 360.
+
+
+UMBELLIFERS.
+
+Actinotus Helianthi, 345.
+Daucus brachiatus, 235.
+Didiscus pilosus, 593.
+
+
+SANDALWORTS (SANTALACEAE).
+
+Fusanus acuminatus, 105.
+Santalum oblongatum 101.
+
+
+LORANTHS.
+
+* Loranthus linearifolius, HOOK. 102.
+----* aurantiacus, HOOKER, 101.
+----* subfalcatus, HOOKER, 224.
+----* nutans, CUNN. 158.
+
+</pre>
+
+<p>[* The routes of the party advancing are coloured red (long-short-short-long)
+on the maps; those by which it returned, blue (short-short-short).]
+
+<p>LONDON, FEB. 15. 1848.
+<br>
+<hr>
+<br>
+<br>
+<pre>
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+</pre>
+
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