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diff --git a/983-h/983-h.htm b/983-h/983-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0419bd5 --- /dev/null +++ b/983-h/983-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,4609 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Tour through the Eastern Counties of England, 1722, by Daniel Defoe</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Tour through the Eastern Counties of England, +1722, by Daniel Defoe + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + + + + +Title: Tour through the Eastern Counties of England, 1722 + + +Author: Daniel Defoe + + + +Release Date: February 8, 2015 [eBook #983] +[This file was first posted on July 10, 1997] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR THROUGH THE EASTERN COUNTIES +OF ENGLAND, 1722*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1891 Cassell & Company edition by +David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">CASSELL’S NATIONAL LIBRARY</span></p> + +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h1>TOUR<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THROUGH THE</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">Eastern Counties of</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">England</span>, 1722.</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br +/> +DANIEL DEFOE.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/tpb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative graphic" +title= +"Decorative graphic" + src="images/tps.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center">CASSELL & COMPANY, <span +class="smcap">Limited</span>:<br /> +<span class="GutSmall"><i>LONDON</i></span><span +class="GutSmall">, </span><span +class="GutSmall"><i>PARIS</i></span><span class="GutSmall">, +& </span><span class="GutSmall"><i>MELBOURNE</i></span><span +class="GutSmall">.</span><br /> +1891.</p> +<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">Defoe’s</span> “particular and +diverting account of whatever is curious and worth +observation” in his native country, told in a series of +letters, was founded upon seventeen separate tours in the +counties, and three larger tours through the whole country. +He said he had “viewed the north part of England and the +south part of Scotland five several times over,” and he +thought it worth while to note what he saw, because, “the +fate of things gives a new face to things; produces changes in +low life, and innumerable incidents; plants and supplants +families; raises and sinks towns; removes manufactures and trade; +great towns decay and small towns rise; new towns, new palaces, +and new seats are built every day; great rivers and good harbours +dry up, and grow useless; again, new ports are opened; brooks are +made rivers; small rivers navigable pools, and harbours are made +where there were none before, and the like.” We are +endeavouring, by little books published from time to time in this +“National Library,” to secure some record of the +changes in our land and in our manners as a people, and of what +was worth record in his day we can wish for no better reporter +than Defoe.</p> +<p>Here, therefore, is Defoe’s first letter, which +describes a Tour through the Eastern Counties as they were in +1722. It opens his first volume, published in 1724, which +was entitled, “A Tour through the whole Island of Great +Britain, Divided into Circuits or Journies. Giving a +Particular and Diverting Account of whatever is Curious and worth +Observation, viz., I. A Description of the Principal Cities and +Towns, their Situation, Magnitude, Government, and +Commerce. II. The Customs, Manners, Speech, as also the +Exercises, Diversions, and Employment of the People. III. +The Produce and Improvement of the Lands, the Trade and +Manufactures. IV. The Sea Ports and Fortifications, the +Course of Rivers, and the Inland Navigation. V. The Public +Edifices, Seats and Palaces of the Nobility and Gentry. +With Useful Observations upon the Whole. Particularly +fitted for the Reading of such as Desire to Travel over the +Island. By a Gentleman.” The Second Volume of +the Tour was published in June, 1725; and the Third Volume, +giving a Tour through Scotland with a Map of Scotland by Mr. +Moll, followed in August, 1726, completing the record of what +Defoe called “a tedious and very expensive five +years’ Travel.” However tedious the travel may +have been, Defoe’s account of it is anything but tedious +reading.</p> +<p>The change of times is in this letter vividly illustrated in +this volume by Defoe’s account of life as he found it in +the undrained Essex marshes. Life in them was so unhealthy +that the land was cheap, men thus were tempted to take fevers for +grazing and corn-growing. They became fairly acclimatised, +but when they brought their wives in fresh and healthy from the +uplands the women sickened and perished so fast, that it was +common to find a man with his sixth or eighth wife, and Defoe was +told of an old farmer who was living with his twenty-fifth wife, +and had a son about thirty-five years old, who had been married +to about fourteen wives. Custom had even dulled the sense +of this horrible state of things until the frequent change of +wives became a local joke.</p> +<p>We have also a reminder in this volume of the traces and fresh +memories of Civil War in the account of the Siege of Colchester, +which is a bit of realisation such as no man could give better +than Defoe. We may note also the fulness of detail in his +account of Ipswich, a town that he first knew as a child of +seven. He tells how it was once noted for strong collier +vessels built there, he maintains its honour and explains its +decay, while he makes various suggestions for the restoration of +prosperity, even to the hint that Ipswich would be a healthy and +pleasant place for persons to retire to who would live well upon +slender means. He writes, indeed, of Ipswich like a loyal +townsman who had lived there all his life.</p> +<p>At Bury St. Edmunds Defoe tolls us how in a pathway between +two churches a barrister of good family attempted to assassinate +his brother-in-law whom he had invited with his wife and children +to supper. On excuse of visiting a neighbour he led him to +the ambush of a hired assassin. They left their victim for +dead, horribly mangled on the head and face and body with a +hedgebill. He lived to bring them to justice, and was +living still when Defoe wrote. But the assassins had been +condemned to death “on the statute for defacing and +dismembering, called the Coventry Act.” This Tour +also recalls the days when Bury was a place of fashionable +holiday resort. Defoe meditates upon the decline and fall +of Dunwich, tells of the coming and going of the swallows from +our east coast, and of innumerable swallows whom he saw one day +waiting for a favourable wind on the roofs of the church and +houses at Southwold. We read of the coming up to London of +the Norfolk turkeys on foot, in droves of from three hundred to a +thousand, and so many droves that by one route alone, and that +not the most crowded—over Stratford Bridge—a hundred +and forty thousand birds travelled to London between August and +October.</p> +<p>In Norwich, Defoe was less interested than in Ipswich; but of +Yarmouth his account is full, and the frequency of wrecks on the +east coast, especially about Cromer Bay, which seamen called the +Devil’s Throat, is illustrated by the fact that in all the +way from Winterton towards Cromer that “the farmers and +country people had scarce a barn, or a shed, or a stable, nay not +the pales of their yards and gardens, not a hog sty, but what was +built of old planks, beams, wales, and timbers, etc., the wrecks +of ships, and ruins of mariners’ and merchants’ +fortunes.”</p> +<p>Defoe saw the races at Newmarket, where he was “sick of +the jockeying part.” He went also to Bury Fair, of +which he gives a full description, and at Cambridge he paid +honour to the University.</p> +<p>There was another Tour told in letters so near to +Defoe’s in date and form that the first or second volume of +one work is often sold with the second or first volume of the +other. The book not by Defoe was entitled “A Journey +through England in Familiar Letters from a Gentleman” here +to his friend abroad, in two vols., 1722, with a third volume on +Scotland in 1726. All editions published after +Defoe’s death in 1731 have matter added by others. +The addition of new matter began with the novelist Samuel +Richardson in 1732.</p> +<p>Some time afterwards there were changes announced as “by +a gentleman of eminence in the literary world.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">H. M.</p> +<h2>TOUR THROUGH THE EASTERN COUNTIES OF ENGLAND, 1722.</h2> +<p>I <span class="smcap">began</span> my travels where I purpose +to end them, viz., at the City of London, and therefore my +account of the city itself will come last, that is to say, at the +latter end of my southern progress; and as in the course of this +journey I shall have many occasions to call it a circuit, if not +a circle, so I chose to give it the title of circuits in the +plural, because I do not pretend to have travelled it all in one +journey, but in many, and some of them many times over; the +better to inform myself of everything I could find worth taking +notice of.</p> +<p>I hope it will appear that I am not the less, but the more +capable of giving a full account of things, by how much the more +deliberation I have taken in the view of them, and by how much +the oftener I have had opportunity to see them.</p> +<p>I set out the 3rd of April, 1722, going first eastward, and +took what I think I may very honestly call a circuit in the very +letter of it; for I went down by the coast of the Thames through +the Marshes or Hundreds on the south side of the county of Essex, +till I came to Malden, Colchester, and Harwich, thence continuing +on the coast of Suffolk to Yarmouth; thence round by the edge of +the sea, on the north and west side of Norfolk, to Lynn, Wisbech, +and the Wash; thence back again, on the north side of Suffolk and +Essex, to the west, ending it in Middlesex, near the place where +I began it, reserving the middle or centre of the several +counties to some little excursions, which I made by +themselves.</p> +<p>Passing Bow Bridge, where the county of Essex begins, the +first observation I made was, that all the villages which may be +called the neighbourhood of the city of London on this, as well +as on the other sides thereof, which I shall speak to in their +order; I say, all those villages are increased in buildings to a +strange degree, within the compass of about twenty or thirty +years past at the most.</p> +<p>The village of Stratford, the first in this county from +London, is not only increased, but, I believe, more than doubled +in that time; every vacancy filled up with new houses, and two +little towns or hamlets, as they may be called, on the forest +side of the town entirely new, namely Maryland Point and the +Gravel Pits, one facing the road to Woodford and Epping, and the +other facing the road to Ilford; and as for the hither part, it +is almost joined to Bow, in spite of rivers, canals, marshy +grounds, &c. Nor is this increase of building the case +only in this and all the other villages round London; but the +increase of the value and rent of the houses formerly standing +has, in that compass of years above-mentioned, advanced to a very +great degree, and I may venture to say at least the fifth part; +some think a third part, above what they were before.</p> +<p>This is indeed most visible, speaking of Stratford in Essex; +but it is the same thing in proportion in other villages +adjacent, especially on the forest side; as at Low Leyton, +Leytonstone, Walthamstow, Woodford, Wanstead, and the towns of +West Ham, Plaistow, Upton, etc. In all which places, or +near them (as the inhabitants say), above a thousand new +foundations have been erected, besides old houses repaired, all +since the Revolution; and this is not to be forgotten too, that +this increase is, generally speaking, of handsome, large houses, +from £20 a year to £60, very few under £20 a +year; being chiefly for the habitations of the richest citizens, +such as either are able to keep two houses, one in the country +and one in the city; or for such citizens as being rich, and +having left off trade, live altogether in these neighbouring +villages, for the pleasure and health of the latter part of their +days.</p> +<p>The truth of this may at least appear, in that they tell me +there are no less than two hundred coaches kept by the +inhabitants within the circumference of these few villages named +above, besides such as are kept by accidental lodgers.</p> +<p>This increase of the inhabitants, and the cause of it, I shall +enlarge upon when I come to speak of the like in the counties of +Middlesex, Surrey, &c, where it is the same, only in a much +greater degree. But this I must take notice of here, that +this increase causes those villages to be much pleasanter and +more sociable than formerly, for now people go to them, not for +retirement into the country, but for good company; of which, that +I may speak to the ladies as well as other authors do, there are +in these villages, nay, in all, three or four excepted, excellent +conversation, and a great deal of it, and that without the +mixture of assemblies, gaming-houses, and public foundations of +vice and debauchery; and particularly I find none of those +incentives kept up on this side the country.</p> +<p>Mr. Camden, and his learned continuator, Bishop Gibson, have +ransacked this country for its antiquities, and have left little +unsearched; and as it is not my present design to say much of +what has been said already, I shall touch very lightly where two +such excellent antiquaries have gone before me; except it be to +add what may have been since discovered, which as to these parts +is only this: That there seems to be lately found out in the +bottom of the Marshes (generally called Hackney Marsh, and +beginning near about the place now called the Wick, between Old +Ford and the said Wick), the remains of a great stone causeway, +which, as it is supposed, was the highway, or great road from +London into Essex, and the same which goes now over the great +bridge between Bow and Stratford.</p> +<p>That the great road lay this way, and that the great causeway +landed again just over the river, where now the Temple Mills +stand, and passed by Sir Thomas Hickes’s house at Ruckolls, +all this is not doubted; and that it was one of those famous +highways made by the Romans there is undoubted proof, by the +several marks of Roman work, and by Roman coins and other +antiquities found there, some of which are said to be deposited +in the hands of the Rev. Mr. Strype, vicar of the parish of Low +Leyton.</p> +<p>From hence the great road passed up to Leytonstone, a place by +some known now as much by the sign of the “Green +Man,” formerly a lodge upon the edge of the forest; and +crossing by Wanstead House, formerly the dwelling of Sir Josiah +Child, now of his son the Lord Castlemain (of which hereafter), +went over the same river which we now pass at Ilford; and passing +that part of the great forest which we now call Hainault Forest, +came into that which is now the great road, a little on this side +the Whalebone, a place on the road so called because the rib-bone +of a great whale, which was taken in the River Thames the same +year that Oliver Cromwell died, 1658, was fixed there for a +monument of that monstrous creature, it being at first about +eight-and-twenty feet long.</p> +<p>According to my first intention of effectually viewing the +sea-coast of these three counties, I went from Stratford to +Barking, a large market-town, but chiefly inhabited by fishermen, +whose smacks ride in the Thames, at the mouth of their river, +from whence their fish is sent up to London to the market at +Billingsgate by small boats, of which I shall speak by itself in +my description of London.</p> +<p>One thing I cannot omit in the mention of these Barking +fisher-smacks, viz., that one of those fishermen, a very +substantial and experienced man, convinced me that all the +pretences to bringing fish alive to London market from the North +Seas, and other remote places on the coast of Great Britain, by +the new-built sloops called fish-pools, have not been able to do +anything but what their fishing-smacks are able on the same +occasion to perform. These fishing-smacks are very useful +vessels to the public upon many occasions; as particularly, in +time of war they are used as press-smacks, running to all the +northern and western coasts to pick up seamen to man the navy, +when any expedition is at hand that requires a sudden equipment; +at other times, being excellent sailors, they are tenders to +particular men of war; and on an expedition they have been made +use of as machines for the blowing up of fortified ports and +havens; as at Calais, St. Malo, and other places.</p> +<p>This parish of Barking is very large, and by the improvement +of lands taken in out of the Thames, and out of the river which +runs by the town, the tithes, as the townsmen assured me, are +worth above £600 per annum, including, small tithes. +<i>Note</i>.—This parish has two or three chapels of ease, +viz., one at Ilford, and one on the side of Hainault Forest, +called New Chapel.</p> +<p>Sir Thomas Fanshaw, of an ancient Roman Catholic family, has a +very good estate in this parish. A little beyond the town, +on the road to Dagenham, stood a great house, ancient, and now +almost fallen down, where tradition says the Gunpowder Treason +Plot was at first contrived, and that all the first consultations +about it were held there.</p> +<p>This side of the county is rather rich in land than in +inhabitants, occasioned chiefly by the unhealthiness of the air; +for these low marsh grounds, which, with all the south side of +the county, have been saved out of the River Thames, and out of +the sea, where the river is wide enough to be called so, begin +here, or rather begin at West Ham, by Stratford, and continue to +extend themselves, from hence eastward, growing wider and wider +till we come beyond Tilbury, when the flat country lies six, +seven, or eight miles broad, and is justly said to be both +unhealthy and unpleasant.</p> +<p>However, the lands are rich, and, as is observable, it is very +good farming in the marshes, because the landlords let good +pennyworths, for it being a place where everybody cannot live, +those that venture it will have encouragement and indeed it is +but reasonable they should.</p> +<p>Several little observations I made in this part of the county +of Essex.</p> +<p>1. We saw, passing from Barking to Dagenham, the famous +breach, made by an inundation of the Thames, which was so great +as that it laid near 5,000 acres of land under water, but which +after near ten years lying under water, and being several times +blown up, has been at last effectually stopped by the application +of Captain Perry, the gentleman who, for several years, had been +employed in the Czar of Muscovy’s works, at Veronitza, on +the River Don. This breach appeared now effectually made +up, and they assured us that the new work, where the breach was, +is by much esteemed the strongest of all the sea walls in that +level.</p> +<p>2. It was observable that great part of the lands in +these levels, especially those on this side East Tilbury, are +held by the farmers, cow-keepers, and grazing butchers who live +in and near London, and that they are generally stocked (all the +winter half year) with large fat sheep, viz., Lincolnshire and +Leicestershire wethers, which they buy in Smithfield in September +and October, when the Lincolnshire and Leicestershire graziers +sell off their stock, and are kept here till Christmas, or +Candlemas, or thereabouts; and though they are not made at all +fatter here than they were when bought in, yet the farmer or +butcher finds very good advantage in it, by the difference of the +price of mutton between Michaelmas, when it is cheapest, and +Candlemas, when it is dearest; this is what the butchers value +themselves upon, when they tell us at the market that it is right +marsh-mutton.</p> +<p>3. In the bottom of these Marshes, and close to the edge +of the river, stands the strong fortress of Tilbury, called +Tilbury Fort, which may justly be looked upon as the key of the +River Thames, and consequently the key of the City of +London. It is a regular fortification. The design of +it was a pentagon, but the water bastion, as it would have been +called, was never built. The plan was laid out by Sir +Martin Beckman, chief engineer to King Charles II., who also +designed the works at Sheerness. The esplanade of the fort +is very large, and the bastions the largest of any in England, +the foundation is laid so deep, and piles under that, driven down +two an end of one another, so far, till they were assured they +were below the channel of the river, and that the piles, which +were shed with iron, entered into the solid chalk rock adjoining +to, or reaching from, the chalk hills on the other side. +These bastions settled considerably at first, as did also part of +the curtain, the great quantity of earth that was brought to fill +them up, necessarily, requiring to be made solid by time; but +they are now firm as the rocks of chalk which they came from, and +the filling up one of these bastions, as I have been told by good +hands, cost the Government £6,000, being filled with chalk +rubbish fetched from the chalk pits at Northfleet, just above +Gravesend.</p> +<p>The work to the land side is complete; the bastions are faced +with brick. There is a double ditch, or moat, the innermost +part of which is 180 feet broad; there is a good counterscarp, +and a covered way marked out with ravelins and tenailles, but +they are not raised a second time after their first settling.</p> +<p>On the land side there are also two small redoubts of brick, +but of very little strength, for the chief strength of this fort +on the land side consists in this, that they are able to lay the +whole level under water, and so to make it impossible for an +enemy to make any approaches to the fort that way.</p> +<p>On the side next the river there is a very strong curtain, +with a noble gate called the Water Gate in the middle, and the +ditch is palisadoed. At the place where the water bastion +was designed to be built, and which by the plan should run wholly +out into the river, so to flank the two curtains of each side; I +say, in the place where it should have been, stands a high tower, +which they tell us was built in Queen Elizabeth’s time, and +was called the Block House; the side next the water is +vacant.</p> +<p>Before this curtain, above and below the said vacancy, is a +platform in the place of a counterscarp, on which are planted 106 +pieces of cannon, generally all of them carrying from twenty-four +to forty-six pound ball; a battery so terrible as well imports +the consequence of that place; besides which, there are smaller +pieces planted between, and the bastions and curtain also are +planted with guns; so that they must be bold fellows who will +venture in the biggest ships the world has heard of to pass such +a battery, if the men appointed to serve the guns do their duty +like stout fellows, as becomes them.</p> +<p>The present government of this important place is under the +prudent administration of the Right Honourable the Lord +Newbrugh.</p> +<p>From hence there is nothing for many miles together remarkable +but a continued level of unhealthy marshes, called the Three +Hundreds, till we come before Leigh, and to the mouth of the +River Chelmer, and Blackwater. These rivers united make a +large firth, or inlet of the sea, which by Mr. Camden is called +<i>Idumanum Fluvium</i>; but by our fishermen and seamen, who use +it as a port, it is called Malden Water.</p> +<p>In this inlet of the sea is Osey, or Osyth Island, commonly +called Oosy Island, so well known by our London men of pleasure +for the infinite number of wild fowl, that is to say, duck, +mallard, teal, and widgeon, of which there are such vast flights, +that they tell us the island, namely the creek, seems covered +with them at certain times of the year, and they go from London +on purpose for the pleasure of shooting; and, indeed, often come +home very well laden with game. But it must be remembered +too that those gentlemen who are such lovers of the sport, and go +so far for it, often return with an Essex ague on their backs, +which they find a heavier load than the fowls they have shot.</p> +<p>It is on this shore, and near this creek, that the greatest +quantity of fresh fish is caught which supplies not this country +only, but London markets also. On the shore, beginning a +little below Candy Island, or rather below Leigh Road, there lies +a great shoal or sand called the Black Tail, which runs out near +three leagues into the sea due east; at the end of it stands a +pole or mast, set up by the Trinity House men of London, whose +business is to lay buoys and set up sea marks for the direction +of the sailors; this is called Shoe Beacon, from the point of +land where this sand begins, which is called Shoeburyness, and +that from the town of Shoebury, which stands by it. From +this sand, and on the edge of Shoebury, before it, or south west +of it, all along, to the mouth of Colchester water, the shore is +full of shoals and sands, with some deep channels between; all +which are so full of fish, that not only the Barking +fishing-smacks come hither to fish, but the whole shore is full +of small fisher-boats in very great numbers, belonging to the +villages and towns on the coast, who come in every tide with what +they take; and selling the smaller fish in the country, send the +best and largest away upon horses, which go night and day to +London market.</p> +<p><i>N.B.</i>—I am the more particular in my remarks on +this place, because in the course of my travels the reader will +meet with the like in almost every place of note through the +whole island, where it will be seen how this whole kingdom, as +well the people as the land, and even the sea, in every part of +it, are employed to furnish something, and I may add, the best of +everything, to supply the City of London with provisions; I mean +by provisions, corn, flesh, fish, butter, cheese, salt, fuel, +timber, etc., and clothes also; with everything necessary for +building, and furniture for their own use or for trade; of all +which in their order.</p> +<p>On this shore also are taken the best and nicest, though not +the largest, oysters in England; the spot from whence they have +their common appellation is a little bank called Woelfleet, +scarce to be called an island, in the mouth of the River Crouch, +now called Crooksea Water; but the chief place where the said +oysters are now had is from Wyvenhoe and the shores adjacent, +whither they are brought by the fishermen, who take them at the +mouth of that they call Colchester water and about the sand they +call the Spits, and carry them up to Wyvenhoe, where they are +laid in beds or pits on the shore to feed, as they call it; and +then being barrelled up and carried to Colchester, which is but +three miles off, they are sent to London by land, and are from +thence called Colchester oysters.</p> +<p>The chief sort of other fish which they carry from this part +of the shore to London are soles, which they take sometimes +exceeding large, and yield a very good price at London +market. Also sometimes middling turbot, with whiting, +codling and large flounders; the small fish, as above, they sell +in the country.</p> +<p>In the several creeks and openings, as above, on this shore +there are also other islands, but of no particular note, except +Mersey, which lies in the middle of the two openings between +Malden Water and Colchester Water; being of the most difficult +access, so that it is thought a thousand men well provided might +keep possession of it against a great force, whether by land or +sea. On this account, and because if possessed by an enemy +it would shut up all the navigation and fishery on that side, the +Government formerly built a fort on the south-east point of it; +and generally in case of Dutch war, there is a strong body of +troops kept there to defend it.</p> +<p>At this place may be said to end what we call the Hundreds of +Essex—that is to say, the three Hundreds or divisions which +include the marshy country, viz., Barnstable Hundred, Rochford +Hundred, and Dengy Hundred.</p> +<p>I have one remark more before I leave this damp part of the +world, and which I cannot omit on the women’s account, +namely, that I took notice of a strange decay of the sex here; +insomuch that all along this country it was very frequent to meet +with men that had had from five or six to fourteen or fifteen +wives; nay, and some more. And I was informed that in the +marshes on the other side of the river over against Candy Island +there was a farmer who was then living with the +five-and-twentieth wife, and that his son, who was but about +thirty-five years old, had already had about fourteen. +Indeed, this part of the story I only had by report, though from +good hands too; but the other is well known and easy to be +inquired into about Fobbing, Curringham, Thundersly, Benfleet, +Prittlewell, Wakering, Great Stambridge, Cricksea, Burnham, +Dengy, and other towns of the like situation. The reason, +as a merry fellow told me, who said he had had about a dozen and +a half of wives (though I found afterwards he fibbed a little) +was this: That they being bred in the marshes themselves and +seasoned to the place, did pretty well with it; but that they +always went up into the hilly country, or, to speak their own +language, into the uplands for a wife. That when they took +the young lasses out of the wholesome and fresh air they were +healthy, fresh, and clear, and well; but when they came out of +their native air into the marshes among the fogs and damps, there +they presently changed their complexion, got an ague or two, and +seldom held it above half a year, or a year at most; “And +then,” said he, “we go to the uplands again and fetch +another;” so that marrying of wives was reckoned a kind of +good farm to them. It is true the fellow told this in a +kind of drollery and mirth; but the fact, for all that, is +certainly true; and that they have abundance of wives by that +very means. Nor is it less true that the inhabitants in +these places do not hold it out, as in other countries, and as +first you seldom meet with very ancient people among the poor, as +in other places we do, so, take it one with another, not one-half +of the inhabitants are natives of the place; but such as from +other countries or in other parts of this country settle here for +the advantage of good farms; for which I appeal to any impartial +inquiry, having myself examined into it critically in several +places.</p> +<p>From the marshes and low grounds being not able to travel +without many windings and indentures by reason of the creeks and +waters, I came up to the town of Malden, a noted market town +situate at the conflux or joining of two principal rivers in this +county, the Chelm or Chelmer, and the Blackwater, and where they +enter into the sea. The channel, as I have noted, is called +by the sailors Malden Water, and is navigable up to the town, +where by that means is a great trade for carrying corn by water +to London; the county of Essex being (especially on all that +side) a great corn county.</p> +<p>When I have said this I think I have done Malden justice, and +said all of it that there is to be said, unless I should run into +the old story of its antiquity, and tell you it was a Roman +colony in the time of Vespasian, and that it was called +Camolodunum. How the Britons, under Queen Boadicea, in +revenge for the Romans’ ill-usage of her—for indeed +they used her majesty ill—they stripped her naked and +whipped her publicly through their streets for some affront she +had given them. I say how for this she raised the Britons +round the country, overpowered, and cut in pieces the Tenth +Legion, killed above eighty thousand Romans, and destroyed the +colony; but was afterwards overthrown in a great battle, and +sixty thousand Britons slain. I say, unless I should enter +into this story, I have nothing more to say of Malden, and, as +for that story, it is so fully related by Mr. Camden in his +history of the Romans in Britain at the beginning of his +“Britannia,” that I need only refer the reader to it, +and go on with my journey.</p> +<p>Being obliged to come thus far into the uplands, as above, I +made it my road to pass through Witham, a pleasant, well-situated +market town, in which, and in its neighbourhood, there are as +many gentlemen of good fortunes and families as I believe can be +met with in so narrow a compass in any of the three counties of +which I make this circuit.</p> +<p>In the town of Witham dwells the Lord Pasely, oldest son of +the Earl of Abercorn of Ireland (a branch of the noble family of +Hamilton, in Scotland). His lordship has a small, but a +neat, well-built new house, and is finishing his gardens in such +a manner as few in that part of England will exceed them.</p> +<p>Nearer Chelmsford, hard by Boreham, lives the Lord Viscount +Barrington, who, though not born to the title, or estate, or name +which he now possesses, had the honour to be twice made heir to +the estates of gentlemen not at all related to him, at least, one +of them, as is very much to his honour, mentioned in his patent +of creation. His name was Shute, his father a linendraper +in London, and served sheriff of the said city in very +troublesome times. He changed the name of Shute for that of +Barrington by an Act of Parliament obtained for that purpose, and +had the dignity of a baron of the kingdom conferred on him by the +favour of King George. His lordship is a Dissenter, and +seems to love retirement. He was a member of Parliament for +the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed.</p> +<p>On the other side of Witham, at Fauburn, an ancient mansion +house, built by the Romans, lives Mr. Bullock, whose father +married the daughter of that eminent citizen, Sir Josiah Child, +of Wanstead, by whom she had three sons; the eldest enjoys the +estate, which is considerable.</p> +<p>It is observable, that in this part of the country there are +several very considerable estates, purchased and now enjoyed by +citizens of London, merchants, and tradesmen, as Mr. Western, an +iron merchant, near Kelendon; Mr. Cresnor, a wholesale grocer, +who was, a little before he died, named for sheriff at +Earl’s Coln; Mr. Olemus, a merchant at Braintree; Mr. +Westcomb, near Malden; Sir Thomas Webster at Copthall, near +Waltham; and several others.</p> +<p>I mention this to observe how the present increase of wealth +in the City of London spreads itself into the country, and plants +families and fortunes, who in another age will equal the families +of the ancient gentry, who perhaps were brought out. I +shall take notice of this in a general head, and when I have run +through all the counties, collect a list of the families of +citizens and tradesmen thus established in the several counties, +especially round London.</p> +<p>The product of all this part of the country is corn, as that +of the marshy feeding grounds mentioned above is grass, where +their chief business is breeding of calves, which I need not say +are the best and fattest, and the largest veal in England, if not +in the world; and, as an instance, I ate part of a veal or calf, +fed by the late Sir Josiah Child at Wanstead, the loin of which +weighed above thirty pounds, and the flesh exceeding white and +fat.</p> +<p>From hence I went on to Colchester. The story of +Kill-Dane, which is told of the town of Kelvedon, three miles +from Witham, namely, that this is the place where the massacre of +the Danes was begun by the women, and that therefore it was +called Kill-Dane; I say of it, as we generally say of improbable +news, it wants confirmation. The true name of the town is +Kelvedon, and has been so for many hundred years. Neither +does Mr. Camden, or any other writer I meet with worth naming, +insist on this piece of empty tradition. The town is +commonly called Keldon.</p> +<p>Colchester is an ancient corporation. The town is large, +very populous, the streets fair and beautiful, and though it may +not said to be finely built, yet there are abundance of very good +and well-built houses in it. It still mourns in the ruins +of a civil war; during which, or rather after the heat of the war +was over, it suffered a severe siege, which, the garrison making +a resolute defence, was turned into a blockade, in which the +garrison and inhabitants also suffered the utmost extremity of +hunger, and were at last obliged to surrender at discretion, when +their two chief officers, Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, +were shot to death under the castle wall. The inhabitants +had a tradition that no grass would grow upon the spot where the +blood of those two gallant gentlemen was spilt, and they showed +the place bare of grass for many years; but whether for this +reason I will not affirm. The story is now dropped, and the +grass, I suppose, grows there, as in other places.</p> +<p>However, the battered walls, the breaches in the turrets, and +the ruined churches, still remain, except that the church of St. +Mary (where they had the royal fort) is rebuilt; but the steeple, +which was two-thirds battered down, because the besieged had a +large culverin upon it that did much execution, remains still in +that condition.</p> +<p>There is another church which bears the marks of those times, +namely, on the south side of the town, in the way to the Hythe, +of which more hereafter.</p> +<p>The lines of contravallation, with the forts built by the +besiegers, and which surrounded the whole town, remain very +visible in many places; but the chief of them are demolished.</p> +<p>The River Colne, which passes through this town, compasses it +on the north and east sides, and served in those times for a +complete defence on those sides. They have three bridges +over it, one called North Bridge, at the north gate, by which the +road leads into Suffolk; one called East Bridge, at the foot of +the High Street, over which lies the road to Harwich, and one at +the Hythe, as above.</p> +<p>The river is navigable within three miles of the town for +ships of large burthen; a little lower it may receive even a +royal navy; and up to that part called the Hythe, close to the +houses, it is navigable for hoys and small barques. This +Hythe is a long street, passing from west to east, on the south +side of the town. At the west end of it, there is a small +intermission of the buildings, but not much; and towards the +river it is very populous (it may be called the Wapping of +Colchester). There is one church in that part of the town, +a large quay by the river, and a good custom-house.</p> +<p>The town may be said chiefly to subsist by the trade of making +bays, which is known over most of the trading parts of Europe by +the name of Colchester Bays, though indeed all the towns round +carry on the same trade—namely, Kelvedon, Witham, +Coggeshall, Braintree, Bocking, &c., and the whole county, +large as it is, may be said to be employed, and in part +maintained, by the spinning of wool for the bay trade of +Colchester and its adjacent towns. The account of the +siege, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1648, with a diary of +the most remarkable passages, are as follows, which I had from so +good a hand as that I have no reason to question its being a true +relation.</p> +<h3>A DIARY:<br /> +<span class="smcap">Or</span>, <span class="smcap">An Account of +the Siege and Blockade of Colchester</span>, <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1648.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the 4th of June, we were alarmed +in the town of Colchester that the Lord Goring, the Lord Capel, +and a body of two thousand of the loyal party, who had been in +arms in Kent, having left a great body of an army in possession +of Rochester Bridge, where they resolved to fight the Lord +Fairfax and the Parliament army, had given the said General +Fairfax the slip, and having passed the Thames at Greenwich, were +come to Stratford, and were advancing this way; upon which news, +Sir Charles Lucas, Sir George Lisle, Colonel Cook, and several +gentlemen of the loyal army, and all that had commissions from +the king, with a gallant appearance of gentlemen volunteers, drew +together from all parts of the country to join with them.</p> +<p>The 8th, we were further informed that they were advanced to +Chelmsford, to New Hall House, and to Witham; and the 9th some of +the horse arrived in the town, taking possession of the gates, +and having engineers with them, told us that General Goring had +resolved to make this town his headquarters, and would cause it +to be well fortified. They also caused the drums to beat +for volunteers; and a good number of the poor bay-weavers, and +such-like people, wanting employment, enlisted; so that they +completed Sir Charles Lucas’s regiment, which was but thin, +to near eight hundred men.</p> +<p>On the 10th we had news that the Lord Fairfax, having beaten +the Royalists at Maidstone, and retaken Rochester, had passed the +Thames at Gravesend, though with great difficulty, and with some +loss, and was come to Horndon-on-the-Hill, in order to gain +Colchester before the Royalists; but that hearing Sir Charles +Lucas had prevented him, had ordered his rendezvous at +Billerecay, and intended to possess the pass at Malden on the +11th, where Sir Thomas Honnywood, with the county-trained bands, +was to be the same day.</p> +<p>The same evening the Lord Goring, with all his forces, making +about five thousand six hundred men, horse and foot, came to +Colchester, and encamping without the suburbs, under command of +the cannon of St. Mary’s fort, made disposition to fight +the Parliament forces if they came up.</p> +<p>The 12th, the Lord Goring came into Colchester, viewed the +fort in St. Mary’s churchyard, ordered more cannon to be +planted upon it, posted two regiments in the suburbs without the +head gate, let the town know he would take them into his +Majesty’s protection, and that he would fight the enemy in +that situation. The same evening the Lord Fairfax, with a +strong party of one thousand horse, came to Lexden, at two small +miles’ distance, expecting the rest of his army there the +same night.</p> +<p>The Lord Goring brought in prisoners the same day, Sir William +Masham, and several other gentlemen of the county, who were +secured under a strong guard; which the Parliament hearing, +ordered twenty prisoners of the royal party to be singled out, +declaring, that they should be used in the same manner as the +Lord Goring used Sir William Masham, and the gentlemen prisoners +with him.</p> +<p>On the 13th, early in the morning, our spies brought +intelligence that the Lord Fairfax, all his forces being come up +to him, was making dispositions for a march, resolving to attack +the Royalists in their camp; upon which, the Lord Goring drew all +his forces together, resolving to fight. The engineers had +offered the night before to entrench his camp, and to draw a line +round it in one night’s time, but his lordship declined it, +and now there was no time for it; whereupon the general, Lord +Goring, drew up his army in order of battle on both sides the +road, the horse in the open fields on the wings; the foot were +drawn up, one regiment in the road, one regiment on each side, +and two regiments for reserve in the suburb, just at the entrance +of the town, with a regiment of volunteers advanced as a forlorn +hope, and a regiment of horse at the head-gate, ready to support +the reserve, as occasion should require.</p> +<p>About nine in the morning we heard the enemy’s drums +beat a march, and in half an hour more their first troops +appeared on the higher grounds towards Lexden. Immediately +the cannon from St. Mary’s fired upon them, and put some +troops of horse into confusion, doing great execution, which, +they not being able to shun it, made them quicken their pace, +fall on, when our cannon were obliged to cease firing, lest we +should hurt our own troops as well as the enemy. Soon +after, their foot appeared, and our cannon saluted them in like +manner, and killed them a great many men.</p> +<p>Their first line of foot was led up by Colonel Barkstead, and +consisted of three regiments of foot, making about 1,700 men, and +these charged our regiment in the lane, commanded by Sir George +Lisle and Sir William Campion. They fell on with great +fury, and were received with as much gallantry, and three times +repulsed; nor could they break in here, though the Lord Fairfax +sent fresh men to support them, till the Royalists’ horse, +oppressed with numbers on the left, were obliged to retire, and +at last to come full gallop into the street, and so on into the +town. Nay, still the foot stood firm, and the volunteers, +being all gentlemen, kept their ground with the greatest +resolution; but the left wing being routed, as above, Sir William +Campion was obliged to make a front to the left, and lining the +hedge with his musketeers, made a stand with a body of pikes +against the enemy’s horse, and prevented them entering the +lane. Here that gallant gentleman was killed with a +carabine shot; and after a very gallant resistance, the horse on +the right being also overpowered, the word was given to retreat, +which, however, was done in such good order, the regiments of +reserve standing drawn up at the end of the street, ready to +receive the enemy’s horse upon the points of their pikes, +that the royal troops came on in the openings between the +regiments, and entered the town with very little loss, and in +very good order.</p> +<p>By this, however, those regiments of reserve were brought at +last to sustain the efforts of the enemy’s whole army, till +being overpowered by numbers they were put into disorder, and +forced to get into the town in the best manner they could; by +which means near two hundred men were killed or made +prisoners.</p> +<p>Encouraged by this success the enemy pushed on, supposing they +should enter the town pell-mell with the rest; nor did the +Royalists hinder them, but let good part of Barkstead’s own +regiment enter the head-gate; but then sallying from St. +Mary’s with a choice body of foot on their left, and the +horse rallying in the High Street, and charging them again in the +front, they were driven back quite into the street of the suburb, +and most of those that had so rashly entered were cut in +pieces.</p> +<p>Thus they were repulsed at the south entrance into the town; +and though they attempted to storm three times after that with +great resolution, yet they were as often beaten back, and that +with great havoc of their men; and the cannon from the fort all +the while did execution upon those who stood drawn up to support +them; so that at last, seeing no good to be done, they retreated, +having small joy of their pretended victory.</p> +<p>They lost in this action Colonel Needham, who commanded a +regiment called the Tower Guards, and who fought very +desperately; Captain Cox, an old experienced horse officer, and +several other officers of note, with a great many private men, +though, as they had the field, they concealed their number, +giving out that they lost but a hundred, when we were assured +they lost near a thousand men besides the wounded.</p> +<p>They took some of our men prisoners, occasioned by the +regiment of Colonel Farr, and two more sustaining the shock of +their whole army, to secure the retreat of the main body, as +above.</p> +<p>The 14th, the Lord Fairfax finding he was not able to carry +the town by storm, without the formality of a siege, took his +headquarters at Lexden, and sent to London and to Suffolk for +more forces; also he ordered the trained bands to be raised and +posted on the roads to prevent succours. Notwithstanding +which, divers gentlemen, with some assistance of men and arms, +found means to get into the town.</p> +<p>The very same night they began to break ground, and +particularly to raise a fort between Colchester and Lexden, to +cover the general’s quarter from the sallies from the town; +for the Royalists having a good body of horse, gave them no rest, +but scoured the fields every day, and falling all that were found +straggling from their posts, and by this means killed a great +many.</p> +<p>The 17th, Sir Charles Lucas having been out with 1,200 horse, +and detaching parties toward the seaside, and towards Harwich, +they brought in a very great quantity of provisions, and +abundance of sheep and black cattle sufficient for the supply of +the town for a considerable time; and had not the Suffolk forces +advanced over Cataway Bridge to prevent it, a larger supply had +been brought in that way; for now it appeared plainly that the +Lord Fairfax finding the garrison strong and resolute, and that +he was not in a condition to reduce them by force, at least +without the loss of much blood, had resolved to turn his siege +into a blockade, and reduce them by hunger; their troops being +also wanted to oppose several other parties, who had, in several +parts of the kingdom, taken arms for the king’s cause.</p> +<p>This same day General Fairfax sent in a trumpet to propose +exchanging prisoners, which the Lord Goring rejected, expecting a +reinforcement of troops, which were actually coming to him, and +were to be at Linton in Cambridgeshire as the next day.</p> +<p>The same day two ships brought in a quantity of corn and +provisions and fifty-six men from the shore of Kent with several +gentlemen, who all landed and came up to the town, and the +greatest part of the corn was with the utmost application +unloaded the same night into some hoys, which brought it up to +the Hythe, being apprehensive of the Parliament’s ships +which lay at Harwich, who having intelligence of the said ships, +came the next day into the mouth of the river, and took the said +two ships and what corn was left in them. The besieged sent +out a party to help the ships, but having no boats they could not +assist them.</p> +<p>18th. Sir Charles Lucas sent an answer about exchange of +prisoners, accepting the conditions offered, but the +Parliament’s general returned that he would not treat with +Sir Charles, for that he (Sir Charles) being his prisoner upon +his parole of honour, and having appeared in arms contrary to the +rules of war, had forfeited his honour and faith, and was not +capable of command or trust in martial affairs. To this Sir +Charles sent back an answer, and his excuse for his breach of his +parole, but it was not accepted, nor would the Lord Fairfax enter +upon any treaty with him.</p> +<p>Upon this second message Sir William Masham and the Parliament +Committee and other gentlemen, who were prisoners in the town, +sent a message in writing under their hands to the Lord Fairfax, +entreating him to enter into a treaty for peace; but the Lord +Fairfax returned, he could take no notice of their request, as +supposing it forced from them under restraint; but that if the +Lord Goring desired peace, he might write to the Parliament, and +he would cause his messenger to have a safe conduct to carry his +letter. There was a paper sent enclosed in this paper, +signed Capel, Norwich, Charles Lucas, but to that the general +would return no answer, because it was signed by Sir Charles for +the reasons above.</p> +<p>All this while the Lord Goring, finding the enemy +strengthening themselves, gave order for fortifying the town, and +drawing lines in several places to secure the entrance, as +particularly without the east bridge, and without the north gate +and bridge, and to plant more cannon upon the works; to which end +some great guns were brought in from some ships at Wivenhoe.</p> +<p>The same day, our men sallied out in three places, and +attacked the besiegers, first at their port, called Essex, then +at their new works, on the south of the town; a third party +sallying at the east bridge, brought in some booty from the +Suffolk troops, having killed several of their stragglers on the +Harwich road. They also took a lieutenant of horse +prisoner, and brought him into the town.</p> +<p>19th. This day we had the unwelcome news that our +friends at Linton were defeated by the enemy, and Major Muschamp, +a loyal gentleman, killed.</p> +<p>The same night, our men gave the enemy alarm at their new +Essex fort, and thereby drew them out as if they would fight, +till they brought them within reach of the cannon of St. +Mary’s, and then our men retiring, the great guns let fly +among them, and made them run. Our men shouted after +them. Several of them were killed on this occasion, one +shot having killed three horsemen in our fight.</p> +<p>20th. We now found the enemy, in order to a perfect +blockade, resolved to draw a line of circumvallation round the +town; having received a train of forty pieces of heavy cannon +from the Tower of London.</p> +<p>This day the Parliament sent a messenger to their prisoners to +know how they fared, and how they were used; who returned word, +that they fared indifferent well, and were very civilly used, but +that provisions were scarce, and therefore dear.</p> +<p>This day a party of horse, with 300 foot, sallied out, and +marched as far as the fort on the Isle of Mersey, which they made +a show of attacking, to keep in the garrison. Meanwhile the +rest took a good number of cattle from the country, which they +brought safe into the town, with five waggons laden with +corn. This was the last they could bring in that way, the +lines being soon finished on that side.</p> +<p>This day the Lord Fairfax sent in a trumpet to the Earl of +Norwich and the Lord Goring, offering honourable conditions to +them all, allowing all the gentlemen their lives and arms, +exemption from plunder, and passes, if they desired to go beyond +sea, and all the private men pardon, and leave to go peaceably to +their own dwellings. But the Lord Goring and the rest of +the gentlemen rejected it, and laughed at them, upon which the +Lord Fairfax made proclamation, that his men should give the +private soldiers in Colchester free leave to pass through their +camp, and go where they pleased without molestation, only leaving +their arms, but that the gentlemen should have no quarter. +This was a great loss to the Royalists, for now the men +foreseeing the great hardships they were like to suffer, began to +slip away, and the Lord Goring was obliged to forbid any to +desert on pain of present death, and to keep parties of horse +continually patrolling to prevent them; notwithstanding which +many got away.</p> +<p>21st. The town desired the Lord Goring to give them +leave to send a message to Lord Fairfax, to desire they might +have liberty to carry on their trade and sell their bays and +says, which Lord Goring granted; but the enemy’s general +returned, that they should have considered that before they let +the Royalists into the town; that to desire a free trade from a +town besieged was never heard of, or at least, was such a motion, +as was never yet granted; that, however, he would give the +bay-makers leave to bring their bays and says, and other goods, +once a week, or oftener, if they desire it, to Lexden Heath, +where they should have a free market, and might sell them or +carry them back again, if not sold, as they found occasion.</p> +<p>22nd. The besieged sallied out in the night with a +strong party, and disturbed the enemy in their works, and partly +ruined one of their forts, called Ewer’s Fort, where the +besiegers were laying a bridge over the River Colne. Also +they sallied again at east bridge, and faced the Suffolk troops, +who were now declared enemies. These brought in +six-and-fifty good bullocks, and some cows, and they took and +killed several of the enemy.</p> +<p>23rd. The besiegers began to fire with their cannon from +Essex Fort, and from Barkstead’s Fort, which was built upon +the Malden road; and finding that the besieged had a party in Sir +Harbottle Grimston’s house, called, “The +Fryery,” they fired at it with their cannon, and battered +it almost down, and then the soldiers set it on fire.</p> +<p>This day upon the townsmen’s treaty for the freedom of +the bay trade, the Lord Fairfax sent a second offer of conditions +to the besieged, being the same as before, only excepting Lord +Goring, Lord Capel, Sir George Lisle, and Sir Charles Lucas.</p> +<p>This day we had news in the town that the Suffolk forces were +advanced to assist the besiegers, and that they began a fort +called Fort Suffolk, on the north side of the town, to shut up +the Suffolk road towards Stratford. This day the besieged +sallied out at north bridge, attacked the out-guards of the +Suffolk men on Mile End Heath, and drove them into their fort in +the woods.</p> +<p>This day the Lord Fairfax sent a trumpet, complaining of +chewed and poisoned bullets being shot from the town, and +threatening to give no quarter if that practice was allowed; but +Lord Goring returned answer, with a protestation, that no such +thing was done by his order or consent.</p> +<p>24th. They fired hard from their cannon against St. +Mary’s steeple, on which was planted a large culverin, +which annoyed them even in the general’s headquarters at +Lexden. One of the best gunners the garrison had was killed +with a cannon bullet. This night the besieged sallied +towards Audly, on the Suffolk road, and brought in some +cattle.</p> +<p>25th. Lord Capel sent a trumpet to the +Parliament-General, but the rogue ran away, and came not back, +nor sent any answer; whether they received his message or not, +was not known.</p> +<p>26th. This day having finished their new bridge, a party +of their troops passed that bridge, and took post on the hill +over against Mile End Church, where they built a fort, called +Fothergall’s Fort, and another on the east side of the +road, called Rainsbro’s Fort, so that the town was entirely +shut in, on that side, and the Royalists had no place free but +over east bridge, which was afterwards cut off by the +enemy’s bringing their line from the Hythe within the river +to the stone causeway leading to the east bridge.</p> +<p>July 1st. From the 26th to the 1st, the besiegers +continued finishing their works, and by the 2nd the whole town +was shut in; at which the besiegers gave a general salvo from +their cannon at all their forts; but the besieged gave them a +return, for they sallied out in the night, attacked +Barkstead’s fort, scarce finished, with such fury, that +they twice entered the work sword in hand, killed most part of +the defendants, and spoiled part of the forts cast up; but fresh +forces coming up, they retired with little loss, bringing eight +prisoners, and having slain, as they reported, above 100.</p> +<p>On the second, Lord Fairfax offered exchange for Sir William +Masham in particular, and afterwards for other prisoners, but the +Lord Goring refused.</p> +<p>5th. The besieged sallied with two regiments, supported +by some horse, at midnight; they were commanded by Sir George +Lisle. They fell on with such fury, that the enemy were put +into confusion, their works at east bridge ruined, and two pieces +of cannon taken, Lieutenant Colonel Sambrook, and several other +officers, were killed, and our men retired into the town, +bringing the captain, two lieutenants, and about fifty men with +them prisoners into the town; but having no horse, we could not +bring off the cannon, but they spiked them, and made them unfit +for service.</p> +<p>From this time to the 11th, the besieged sallied almost every +night, being encouraged by their successes, and they constantly +cut off some of the enemy, but not without loss also on their own +side.</p> +<p>About this time we received by a spy the bad news of defeating +the king’s friends almost in all parts of England, and +particularly several parties which had good wishes to our +gentlemen, and intended to relieve them.</p> +<p>Our batteries from St. Mary’s Fort and steeple, and from +the north bridge, greatly annoyed them, and killed most of their +gunners and firemen. One of the messengers who brought news +to Lord Fairfax of the defeat of one of the parties, in Kent, and +the taking of Weymer Castle, slipped into the town, and brought a +letter to the Lord Goring, and listed in the regiment of the Lord +Capel’s horse.</p> +<p>14th. The besiegers attacked and took the Hythe Church, +with a small work the besieged had there, but the defenders +retired in time; some were taken prisoners in the church, but not +in the fort; Sir Charles Lucas’s horse was attacked by a +great body of the besiegers; the besieged defended themselves +with good resolution for some time, but a hand-grenade thrown in +by the assailants, having fired the magazine, the house was blown +up, and most of the gallant defenders buried in the ruins. +This was a great blow to the Royalists, for it was a very strong +pass, and always well guarded.</p> +<p>15th. The Lord Fairfax sent offers of honourable +conditions to the soldiers of the garrison if they would +surrender, or quit the service; upon which the Lords Goring and +Capel, and Sir Charles Lucas, returned an answer signed by their +hands, that it was not honourable or agreeable to the usage of +war to offer conditions separately to the soldiers, exclusive of +their officers, and therefore civilly desired his lordship to +send no more such messages or proposals, or if he did, that he +would not take it ill if they hanged up the messenger.</p> +<p>This evening all the gentlemen volunteers, with all the horse +of the garrison, with Sir Charles Lucas, Sir George Lisle, and +Sir Bernard Gascoigne at the head of them, resolved to break +through the enemy, and forcing a pass to advance into Suffolk by +Nayland Bridge. To this purpose they passed the river near +Middle Mill; but their guides having misled them the enemy took +the alarm; upon which their guides, and some pioneers which they +had with them to open the hedges and level the banks, for their +passing to Boxted, all ran away, so the horse were obliged to +retreat, the enemy pretending to pursue, but thinking they had +retreated by the north bridge, they missed them; upon which being +enraged, they fired the suburbs without the bridge, and burned +them quite down.</p> +<p>18th. Some of the horse attempted to escape the same +way, and had the whole body been there as before, they had +effected it; but there being but two troops, they were obliged to +retire. Now the town began to be greatly distressed, +provisions failing, and the townspeople, which were numerous, +being very uneasy, and no way of breaking through being found +practicable, the gentlemen would have joined in any attempt +wherein they might die gallantly with their swords in their +hands, but nothing presented; they often sallied and cut off many +of the enemy, but their numbers were continually supplied, and +the besieged diminished; their horse also sunk and became unfit +for service, having very little hay, and no corn, and at length +they were forced to kill them for food; so that they began to be +in a very miserable condition, and the soldiers deserted every +day in great numbers, not being able to bear the want of food, as +being almost starved with hunger.</p> +<p>22nd. The Lord Fairfax offered again an exchange of +prisoners, but the Lord Goring rejected it, because they refused +conditions to the chief gentlemen of the garrison.</p> +<p>During this time, two troops of the Royal Horse sallied out in +the night, resolving to break out or die: the first rode up full +gallop to the enemy’s horse guards on the side of Malden +road, and exchanged their pistols with the advanced troops, and +wheeling made as if they would retire to the town; but finding +they were not immediately pursued, they wheeled about to the +right, and passing another guard at a distance, without being +perfectly discovered, they went clean off, and passing towards +Tiptree Heath, and having good guides, they made their escape +towards Cambridgeshire, in which length of way they found means +to disperse without being attacked, and went every man his own +way as fate directed; nor did we hear that many of them were +taken: they were led, as we are informed, by Sir Bernard +Gascoigne.</p> +<p>Upon these attempts of the horse to break out, the enemy built +a small fort in the meadow right against the ford in the river at +the Middle Mill, and once set that mill on fire, but it was +extinguished without much damage; however, the fort prevented any +more attempts that way.</p> +<p>22nd. The Parliament-General sent in a trumpet, to +propose again the exchange of prisoners, offering the Lord +Capel’s son for one, and Mr. Ashburnham for Sir William +Masham; but the Lord Capel, Lord Goring, and the rest of the +loyal gentlemen rejected it; and Lord Capel, in particular, sent +the Lord Fairfax word it was inhuman to surprise his son, who was +not in arms, and offer him to insult a father’s affection, +but that he might murder his son if he pleased, he would leave +his blood to be revenged as Heaven should give opportunity; and +the Lord Goring sent word, that as they had reduced the +king’s servants to eat horseflesh, the prisoners should +feed as they fed.</p> +<p>The enemy sent again to complain of the Royalists shooting +poisoned bullets, and sent two affidavits of it made by two +deserters, swearing it was done by the Lord Norwich’s +direction; the generals in the town returned under all their +hands that they never gave any such command or direction; that +they disowned the practice; and that the fellows who swore it +were perjured before in running from their colours and the +service of their king, and ought not to be credited again; but +they added, that for shooting rough-cast slugs they must excuse +them, as things stood with them at that time.</p> +<p>About this time, a porter in a soldier’s habit got +through the enemy’s leaguer, and passing their out-guards +in the dark, got into the town, and brought letters from London, +assuring the Royalists that there were so many strong parties up +in arms for the king, and in so many places, that they would be +very suddenly relieved. This they caused to be read to the +soldiers to encourage them; and particularly it related to the +rising of the Earl of Holland, and the Duke of Buckingham, who +with 500 horse were gotten together in arms about Kingston in +Surrey; but we had notice in a few days after that they were +defeated, and the Earl of Holland taken, who was afterwards +beheaded.</p> +<p>26th. The enemy now began to batter the walls, and +especially on the west side, from St. Mary’s towards the +north gate; and we were assured they intended a storm; on which +the engineers were directed to make trenches behind the walls +where the breaches should be made, that in case of a storm they +might meet with a warm reception. Upon this, they gave over +the design of storming. The Lord Goring finding that the +enemy had set the suburbs on fire right against the Hythe, +ordered the remaining houses, which were empty of inhabitants, +from whence their musketeer fired against the town, to be burned +also.</p> +<p>31st. A body of foot sallied out at midnight, to +discover what the enemy were doing at a place where they thought +a new fort raising; they fell in among the workmen, and put them +to flight, cut in pieces several of the guard, and brought in the +officer who commanded them prisoner.</p> +<p>August 2nd. The town was now in a miserable condition: +the soldiers searched and rifled the houses of the inhabitants +for victuals; they had lived on horseflesh several weeks, and +most of that also was as lean as carrion, which not being well +salted bred wens; and this want of diet made the soldiers sickly, +and many died of fluxes, yet they boldly rejected all offers of +surrender, unless with safety to their offices. However, +several hundreds got out, and either passed the enemy’s +guards, or surrendered to them and took passes.</p> +<p>7th. The townspeople became very uneasy to the soldiers, +and the mayor of the town, with the aldermen, waited upon the +general, desiring leave to send to the Lord Fairfax for leave to +all the inhabitants to come out of the town, that they might not +perish, to which the Lord Goring consented, but the Lord Fairfax +refused them.</p> +<p>12th. The rabble got together in a vast crowd about the +Lord Goring’s quarters, clamouring for a surrender, and +they did this every evening, bringing women and children, who lay +howling and crying on the ground for bread; the soldiers beat off +the men, but the women and children would not stir, bidding the +soldiers kill them, saying they had rather be shot than be +starved.</p> +<p>16th. The general, moved by the cries and distress of +the poor inhabitants, sent out a trumpet to the +Parliament-General, demanding leave to send to the Prince, who +was with a fleet of nineteen men of war in the mouth of the +Thames, offering to surrender, if they were not relieved in +twenty days. The Lord Fairfax refused it, and sent them +word he would be in the town in person, and visit them in less +than twenty days, intimating that they were preparing for a +storm. Some tart messages and answers were exchanged on +this occasion. The Lord Goring sent word they were willing, +in compassion to the poor townspeople, and to save that effusion +of blood, to surrender upon honourable terms, but that as for the +storming them, which was threatened, they might come on when they +thought fit, for that they (the Royalists) were ready for +them. This held to the 19th.</p> +<p>20th. The Lord Fairfax returned what he said was his +last answer, and should be the last offer of mercy. The +conditions offered were, that upon a peaceable surrender, all +soldiers and officers under the degree of a captain in commission +should have their lives, be exempted from plunder, and have +passes to go to their respective dwellings. All the +captains and superior officers, with all the lords and gentlemen, +as well in commission as volunteers, to surrender prisoners at +discretion, only that they should not be plundered by the +soldiers.</p> +<p>21st. The generals rejected those offers; and when the +people came about them again for bread, set open one of the +gates, and bid them go out to the enemy, which a great many did +willingly; upon which the Lord Goring ordered all the rest that +came about his door to be turned out after them. But when +the people came to the Lord Fairfax’s camp the out-guards +were ordered to fire at them and drive them all back again to the +gate, which the Lord Goring seeing, he ordered them to be +received in again. And now, although the generals and +soldiers also were resolute to die with their swords in their +hands rather than yield, and had maturely resolved to abide a +storm, yet the Mayor and Aldermen having petitioned them as well +as the inhabitants, being wearied with the importunities of the +distressed people, and pitying the deplorable condition they were +reduced to, they agreed to enter upon a treaty, and accordingly +sent out some officers to the Lord Fairfax, the +Parliament-General, to treat, and with them was sent two +gentlemen of the prisoners upon their parole to return.</p> +<p>Upon the return of the said messengers with the Lord +Fairfax’s terms, the Lord Goring, &c., sent out a +letter declaring they would die with their swords in their hands +rather than yield without quarter for life, and sent a paper of +articles on which they were willing to surrender. But in +the very interim of this treaty news came that the Scots army, +under Duke Hamilton, which was entered into Lancashire, and was +joined by the Royalists in that country, making 21,000 men, were +entirely defeated. After this the Lord Fairfax would not +grant any abatement of articles—viz., to have all above +lieutenants surrender at mercy.</p> +<p>Upon this the Lord Goring and the General refused to submit +again, and proposed a general sally, and to break through or die, +but found upon preparing for it that the soldiers, who had their +lives offered them, declined it, fearing the gentlemen would +escape, and they should be left to the mercy of the Parliament +soldiers; and that upon this they began to mutiny and talk of +surrendering the town and their officers too. Things being +brought to this pass, the Lords and General laid aside that +design, and found themselves obliged to submit; and so the town +was surrendered the 28th of August, 1648, upon conditions as +follows:—</p> +<p class="gutindent">The Lords and gentlemen all prisoners at +mercy.</p> +<p class="gutindent">The common soldiers had passes to go home to +their several dwellings, but without arms, and an oath not to +serve against the Parliament.</p> +<p class="gutindent">The town to be preserved from pillage, +paying £14,000 ready money.</p> +<p>The same day a council of war being called about the prisoners +of war, it was resolved that the Lords should be left to the +disposal of the Parliament. That Sir Charles Lucas, Sir +George Lisle, and Sir Marmaduke Gascoigne should be shot to +death, and the other officers prisoners to remain in custody till +further order.</p> +<p>The two first of the three gentlemen were shot to death, and +the third respited. Thus ended the siege of Colchester.</p> +<p>N.B.—Notwithstanding the number killed in the siege, and +dead of the flux, and other distempers occasioned by bad diet, +which were very many, and notwithstanding the number which +deserted and escaped in the time of their hardships, yet there +remained at the time of the surrender:</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p>Earl of Norwich (Goring).</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p>Lord Capell.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p>Lord Loughbro’.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> +</td> +<td><p>Knights.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> +</td> +<td><p>Colonels.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lieut.-Colonels.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> +</td> +<td><p>Majors.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> +</td> +<td><p>Captains.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">72</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lieutenants.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> +</td> +<td><p>Ensigns.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">183</p> +</td> +<td><p>Serjeants and Corporals.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3,067</p> +</td> +<td><p>Private Soldiers.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">65</p> +</td> +<td><p>Servants to the Lords and General Officers and +Gentlemen.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">3,526</p> +</td> +<td><p>in all.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The town of Colchester has been supposed to contain about +40,000 people, including the out-villages which are within its +liberty, of which there are a great many—the liberty of the +town being of a great extent. One sad testimony of the town +being so populous is that they buried upwards of 5,259 people in +the plague year, 1665. But the town was severely visited +indeed, even more in proportion than any of its neighbours, or +than the City of London.</p> +<p>The government of the town is by a mayor, high steward, a +recorder or his deputy, eleven aldermen, a chamberlain, a town +clerk, assistants, and eighteen common councilmen. Their +high steward (this year, 1722) is Sir Isaac Rebow, a gentleman of +a good family and known character, who has generally for above +thirty years been one of their representatives in +Parliament. He has a very good house at the entrance in at +the south, or head gate of the town, where he has had the honour +several times to lodge and entertain the late King William of +glorious memory in his returning from Holland by way of Harwich +to London. Their recorder is Earl Cowper, who has been +twice Lord High Chancellor of England. But his lordship not +residing in those parts has put in for his deputy,—Price, +Esq., barrister-at-law, and who dwells in the town. There +are in Colchester eight churches besides those which are damaged, +and five meeting-houses, whereof two for Quakers, besides a Dutch +church and a French church.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Public Edifices +are</i>—</p> +<p>1. Bay Hall, an ancient society kept up for ascertaining +the manufacture of bays, which are, or ought to be, all brought +to this hall to be viewed and sealed according to their goodness +by the masters; and to this practice has been owing the great +reputation of the Colchester bays in foreign markets, where to +open the side of a bale and show the seal has been enough to give +the buyer a character of the value of the goods without any +further search; and so far as they abate the integrity and +exactness of their method, which I am told of late is much +omitted; I say, so far, that reputation will certainly abate in +the markets they go to, which are principally in Portugal and +Italy. This corporation is governed by a particular set of +men who are called governors of the Dutch Bay Hall. And in +the same building is the Dutch church.</p> +<p>2. The guildhall of the town, called by them the moot +hall, to which is annexed the town gaol.</p> +<p>3. The workhouse, being lately enlarged, and to which +belongs a corporation or a body of the inhabitants, consisting of +sixty persons incorporated by Act of Parliament Anno 1698 for +taking care of the poor. They are incorporated by the name +and title of the governor, deputy governor, assistants, and +guardians of the poor of the town of Colchester. They are +in number eight-and-forty, to whom are added the mayor and +aldermen for the time being, who are always guardians by the same +charter. These make the number of sixty, as above. +There is also a grammar free-school, with a good allowance to the +master, who is chosen by the town.</p> +<p>4. The castle of Colchester is now become only a +monument showing the antiquity of the place, it being built as +the walls of the town also are, with Roman bricks, and the Roman +coins dug up here, and ploughed up in the fields adjoining, +confirm it. The inhabitants boast much that Helena, the +mother of Constantine the Great, first Christian Emperor of the +Romans, was born there, and it may be so for aught we know. +I only observe what Mr. Camden says of the Castle of Colchester, +viz.: In the middle of this city stands a castle ready to fall +with age.</p> +<p>Though this castle has stood one hundred and twenty years from +the time Mr. Camden wrote that account, and it is not fallen yet, +nor will another hundred and twenty years, I believe, make it +look one jot the older. And it was observable that in the +late siege of this town, a common shot, which the besiegers made +at this old castle, were so far from making it fall, that they +made little or no impression upon it; for which reason, it seems, +and because the garrison made no great use of it against the +besiegers, they fired no more at it.</p> +<p>There are two charity schools set up here, and carried on by a +generous subscription, with very good success.</p> +<p>The title of Colchester is in the family of Earl Rivers, and +the eldest son of that family is called Lord Colchester, though +as I understand, the title is not settled by the creation to the +eldest son till he enjoys the title of earl with it, but that the +other is by the courtesy of England; however, this I take <i>ad +referendum</i>.</p> +<p>From Colchester I took another step down to the coast; the +land running out a great way into the sea, south and south-east +makes that promontory of land called the Naze, and well known to +seamen using the northern trade. Here one sees a sea open +as an ocean without any opposite shore, though it be no more than +the mouth of the Thames. This point called the Naze, and +the north-east point of Kent, near Margate, called the North +Foreland, making what they call the mouth of the river and the +port of London, though it be here above sixty miles over.</p> +<p>At Walton-under-the-Naze they find on the shore copperas-stone +in great quantities; and there are several large works called +copperas houses, where they make it with great expense.</p> +<p>On this promontory is a new mark erected by the Trinity House +men, and at the public expense, being a round brick tower, near +eighty feet high. The sea gains so much upon the land here +by the continual winds at south-west, that within the memory of +some of the inhabitants there they have lost above thirty acres +of land in one place.</p> +<p>From hence we go back into the county about four miles, +because of the creeks which lie between; and then turning east +again come to Harwich, on the utmost eastern point of this large +country.</p> +<p>Harwich is a town so well known and so perfectly described by +many writers, I need say little of it. It is strong by +situation, and may be made more so by art. But it is many +years since the Government of England have had any occasion to +fortify towns to the landward; it is enough that the harbour or +road, which is one of the best and securest in England, is +covered at the entrance by a strong fort and a battery of guns to +the seaward, just as at Tilbury, and which sufficiently defend +the mouth of the river. And there is a particular felicity +in this fortification, viz., that though the entrance or opening +of the river into the sea is very wide, especially at high-water, +at least two miles, if not three over; yet the Channel, which is +deep, and in which the ships must keep and come to the harbour, +is narrow, and lies only on the side of the fort, so that all the +ships which come in or go out must come close under the guns of +the fort—that is to say, under the command of their +shot.</p> +<p>The fort is on the Suffolk side of the bay or entrance, but +stands so far into the sea upon the point of a sand or shoal, +which runs out toward the Essex side, as it were, laps over the +mouth of that haven like a blind to it; and our surveyors of the +country affirm it to be in the county of Essex. The making +this place, which was formerly no other than a sand in the sea, +solid enough for the foundation of so good a fortification, has +not been done but by many years’ labour, often repairs, and +an infinite expense of money, but it is now so firm that nothing +of storms and high tides, or such things as make the sea +dangerous to these kind of works, can affect it.</p> +<p>The harbour is of a vast extent; for, as two rivers empty +themselves here, viz., Stour from Manningtree and the Orwell from +Ipswich, the channels of both are large and deep; and safe for +all weathers; so where they join they make a large bay or road +able to receive the biggest ships, and the greatest number that +ever the world saw together; I mean ships of war. In the +old Dutch war great use has been made of this harbour; and I have +known that there has been one hundred sail of men-of-war and +their attendants and between three and four hundred sail of +collier ships all in this harbour at a time, and yet none of them +crowding or riding in danger of one another.</p> +<p>Harwich is known for being the port where the packet boats, +between England and Holland, go out and come in. The +inhabitants are far from being famed for good usage to strangers, +but, on the contrary, are blamed for being extravagant in their +reckonings in the public-houses, which has not a little +encouraged the setting up of sloops, which they now call passage +boats, to Holland, to go directly from the River Thames; this, +though it may be something the longer passage, yet as they are +said to be more obliging to passengers and more reasonable in the +expense, and, as some say, also, the vessels are better sea +boats, has been the reason why so many passengers do not go or +come by the way of Harwich as formerly were wont to do; insomuch +that the stage coaches between this place and London, which +ordinarily went twice or three times a week, are now entirely +laid down, and the passengers are left to hire coaches on +purpose, take post-horses, or hire horses to Colchester, as they +find most convenient.</p> +<p>The account of a petrifying quality in the earth here, though +some will have it to be in the water of a spring hard by, is very +strange. They boast that their town is walled and their +streets paved with clay, and yet that one is as strong and the +other as clean as those that are built or paved with stone. +The fact is indeed true, for there is a sort of clay in the +cliff, between the town and the Beacon Hill adjoining, which, +when it falls down into the sea, where it is beaten with the +waves and the weather, turns gradually into stone. But the +chief reason assigned is from the water of a certain spring or +well, which, rising in the said cliff, runs down into the sea +among those pieces of clay, and petrifies them as it runs; and +the force of the sea often stirring, and perhaps turning, the +lumps of clay, when storms of wind may give force enough to the +water, causes them to harden everywhere alike; otherwise those +which were not quite sunk in the water of the spring would be +petrified but in part. These stones are gathered up to pave +the streets and build the houses, and are indeed very hard. +It is also remarkable that some of them taken up before they are +thoroughly petrified will, upon breaking them, appear to be hard +as a stone without and soft as clay in the middle; whereas others +that have lain a due time shall be thorough stone to the centre, +and as exceeding hard within as without. The same spring is +said to turn wood into iron. But this I take to be no more +or less than the quality, which, as I mentioned of the shore at +the Naze, is found to be in much of the stone all along this +shore, viz., of the copperas kind; and it is certain that the +copperas stone (so called) is found in all that cliff, and even +where the water of this spring has run; and I presume that those +who call the hardened pieces of wood, which they take out of this +well by the name of iron, never tried the quality of it with the +fire or hammer; if they had, perhaps they would have given some +other account of it.</p> +<p>On the promontory of land which they call Beacon Hill and +which lies beyond or behind the town towards the sea, there is a +lighthouse to give the ships directions in their sailing by as +well as their coming into the harbour in the night. I shall +take notice of these again all together when I come to speak of +the Society of Trinity House, as they are called, by whom they +are all directed upon this coast.</p> +<p>This town was erected into a marquisate in honour of the truly +glorious family of Schomberg, the eldest son of Duke Schomberg, +who landed with King William, being styled Marquis of Harwich; +but that family (in England, at least) being extinct the title +dies also.</p> +<p>Harwich is a town of hurry and business, not much of gaiety +and pleasure; yet the inhabitants seem warm in their nests, and +some of them are very wealthy. There are not many (if any) +gentlemen or families of note either in the town or very near +it. They send two members to Parliament; the present are +Sir Peter Parker and Humphrey Parsons, Esq.</p> +<p>And now being at the extremity of the county of Essex, of +which I have given you some view as to that side next the sea +only, I shall break off this part of my letter by telling you +that I will take the towns which lie more towards the centre of +the county, in my return by the north and west part only, that I +may give you a few hints of some towns which were near me in my +route this way, and of which being so well known there is but +little to say.</p> +<p>On the road from London to Colchester, before I came into it +at Witham, lie four good market towns at equal distance from one +another, namely, Romford, noted for two markets, viz., one for +calves and hogs, the other for corn and other provisions, most, +if not all, bought up for London market. At the farther end +of the town, in the middle of a stately park, stood Guldy Hall, +vulgarly Giddy Hall, an ancient seat of one Coke, sometime Lord +Mayor of London, but forfeited on some occasion to the +Crown. It is since pulled down to the ground, and there now +stands a noble stately fabric or mansion house, built upon the +spot by Sir John Eyles, a wealthy merchant of London, and chosen +Sub-Governor of the South Sea Company immediately after the ruin +of the former Sub-Governor and Directors, whose overthrow makes +the history of these times famous.</p> +<p>Brentwood and Ingatestone, and even Chelmsford itself, have +very little to be said of them, but that they are large +thoroughfare towns, full of good inns, and chiefly maintained by +the excessive multitude of carriers and passengers which are +constantly passing this way to London with droves of cattle, +provisions, and manufactures for London.</p> +<p>The last of these towns is indeed the county town, where the +county gaol is kept, and where the assizes are very often held; +it stands on the conflux of two rivers—the Chelmer, whence +the town is called, and the Cann.</p> +<p>At Lees, or Lee’s Priory, as some call it, is to be seen +an ancient house in the middle of a beautiful park, formerly the +seat of the late Duke of Manchester, but since the death of the +duke it is sold to the Duchess Dowager of Buckinghamshire, the +present Duke of Manchester retiring to his ancient family seat at +Kimbolton in Huntingdonshire, it being a much finer +residence. His grace is lately married to a daughter of the +Duke of Montagu by a branch of the house of Marlborough.</p> +<p>Four market towns fill up the rest of this part of the +country—Dunmow, Braintree, Thaxted, and +Coggeshall—all noted for the manufacture of bays, as above, +and for very little else, except I shall make the ladies laugh at +the famous old story of the Flitch of Bacon at Dunmow, which is +this:</p> +<p>One Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron in this county in the +time of Henry III., on some merry occasion, which is not +preserved in the rest of the story, instituted a custom in the +priory here: That whatever married man did not repent of his +being married, or quarrel or differ and dispute with his wife +within a year and a day after his marriage, and would swear to +the truth of it, kneeling upon two hard pointed stones in the +churchyard, which stones he caused to be set up in the Priory +churchyard for that purpose, the prior and convent, and as many +of the town as would, to be present, such person should have a +flitch of bacon.</p> +<p>I do not remember to have read that any one ever came to +demand it; nor do the people of the place pretend to say, of +their own knowledge, that they remember any that did so. A +long time ago several did demand it, as they say, but they know +not who; neither is there any record of it, nor do they tell us, +if it were now to be demanded, who is obliged to deliver the +flitch of bacon, the priory being dissolved and gone.</p> +<p>The forest of Epping and Hainault spreads a great part of this +country still. I shall speak again of the former in my +return from this circuit. Formerly, it is thought, these +two forests took up all the west and south part of the county; +but particularly we are assured, that it reached to the River +Chelmer, and into Dengy Hundred, and from thence again west to +Epping and Waltham, where it continues to be a forest still.</p> +<p>Probably this forest of Epping has been a wild or forest ever +since this island was inhabited, and may show us, in some parts +of it, where enclosures and tillage has not broken in upon it, +what the face of this island was before the Romans’ time; +that is to say, before their landing in Britain.</p> +<p>The constitution of this forest is best seen, I mean as to the +antiquity of it, by the merry grant of it from Edward the +Confessor before the Norman Conquest to Randolph Peperking, one +of his favourites, who was after called Peverell, and whose name +remains still in several villages in this county; as particularly +that of Hatfield Peverell, in the road from Chelmsford to Witham, +which is supposed to be originally a park, which they called a +field in those days; and Hartfield may be as much as to say a +park for doer; for the stags were in those days called harts, so +that this was neither more nor less than Randolph +Peperking’s Hartfield—that is to say, Ralph +Peverell’s deer-park.</p> +<p>N.B.—This Ralph Randolph, or Ralph Peverell (call him as +you please), had, it seems, a most beautiful lady to his wife, +who was daughter of Ingelrick, one of Edward the +Confessor’s noblemen. He had two sons by +her—William Peverell, a famed soldier, and lord or governor +of Dover Castle, which he surrendered to William the Conqueror, +after the battle in Sussex, and Pain Peverell, his youngest, who +was lord of Cambridge. When the eldest son delivered up the +castle, the lady, his mother, above named, who was the celebrated +beauty of the age, was it seems there, and the Conqueror fell in +love with her, and whether by force or by consent, took her away, +and she became his mistress, or what else you please to call +it. By her he had a son, who was called William, after the +Conqueror’s Christian name, but retained the name of +Peverell, and was afterwards created by the Conqueror lord of +Nottingham.</p> +<p>This lady afterwards, as is supposed, by way of penance for +her yielding to the Conqueror, founded a nunnery at the village +of Hatfield Peverell, mentioned above, and there she lies buried +in the chapel of it, which is now the parish church, where her +memory is preserved by a tombstone under one of the windows.</p> +<p>Thus we have several towns, where any ancient parks have been +placed, called by the name of Hatfield on that very +account. As Hatfield Broad Oak in this county, +Bishop’s Hatfield in Hertfordshire, and several others.</p> +<p>But I return to King Edward’s merry way, as I call it, +of granting this forest to this Ralph Peperking, which I find in +the ancient records, in the very words it was passed in, as +follows. Take my explanations with it for the sake of those +that are not used to the ancient English:</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p><i>The</i> <span class="smcap">Grant</span> <i>in</i> +<span class="smcap">Old English</span>.</p> +</td> +<td><p><i>The Explanation in Modern English</i>.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>IChe <span class="smcap">Edward</span> Koning,</p> +</td> +<td><p>I Edward the king,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Have given of my Forrest the kepen of the Hundred of +<i>Chelmer</i> and <i>Dancing</i>.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Have made ranger of my forest of Chelmsford hundred and +Deering hundred,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To <span class="smcap">Randolph Peperking</span>,<br /> +And to his kindling.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Ralph Peverell, for him and his heirs for ever;</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>With Heorte and Hind, Doe and Bocke,</p> +</td> +<td><p>With both the red and fallow deer.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hare and Fox, Cat and Brock,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Hare and fox, otter and badger;</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Wild Fowle with his Flock;</p> +</td> +<td><p>Wild fowl of all sorts,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Patrich, Pheasant Hen, and Pheasant Cock,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Partridges and pheasants,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>With green and wild Stub and Stock,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Timber and underwood roots and tops;</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>To kepen and to yemen with all her might.</p> +</td> +<td><p>With power to preserve the forest,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Both by Day, and eke by Night;</p> +</td> +<td><p>And watch it against deer-stealers and others:</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>And Hounds for to hold,<br /> +Good and Swift and Bold:</p> +</td> +<td><p>With a right to keep hounds of all sorts,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Four Greyhound and six Raches,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Four greyhounds and six terriers,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>For Hare and Fox, and Wild Cattes,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Harriers and foxhounds, and other hounds.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>And therefore Iche made him my Book.</p> +</td> +<td><p>And to this end I have registered this my grant in the +crown rolls or books;</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Witness the Bishop of <i>Wolston</i>.<br /> +And Booke ylrede many on,</p> +</td> +<td><p>To which the bishop has set his hand as a witness for any +one to read.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>And <i>Sweyne</i> of <i>Essex</i>, our Brother,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Also signed by the king’s brother (or, as some +think, the Chancellor Sweyn, then Earl or Count of Essex).</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>And taken him many other</p> +</td> +<td><p>He might call such other witnesses to sign as he thought +fit.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>And our steward <i>Howlein</i>,<br /> +That <i>By sought</i> me for him.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Also the king’s high steward was a witness, at whose +request this grant was obtained of the king.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>There are many gentlemen’s seats on this side the +country, and a great assembly set up at New Hall, near this town, +much resorted to by the neighbouring gentry. I shall next +proceed to the county of Suffolk, as my first design directed me +to do.</p> +<p>From Harwich, therefore, having a mind to view the harbour, I +sent my horses round by Manningtree, where there is a timber +bridge over the Stour, called Cataway Bridge, and took a boat up +the River Orwell for Ipswich. A traveller will hardly +understand me, especially a seaman, when I speak of the River +Stour and the River Orwell at Harwich, for they know them by no +other names than those of Manningtree water and Ipswich water; so +while I am on salt water, I must speak as those who use the sea +may understand me, and when I am up in the country among the +inland towns again, I shall call them out of their names no +more.</p> +<p>It is twelve miles from Harwich up the water to Ipswich. +Before I come to the town, I must say something of it, because +speaking of the river requires it. In former times, that is +to say, since the writer of this remembers the place very well, +and particularly just before the late Dutch wars, Ipswich was a +town of very good business; particularly it was the greatest town +in England for large colliers or coal-ships employed between +Newcastle and London. Also they built the biggest ships and +the best, for the said fetching of coals of any that were +employed in that trade. They built, also, there so +prodigious strong, that it was an ordinary thing for an Ipswich +collier, if no disaster happened to him, to reign (as seamen call +it) forty or fifty years, and more.</p> +<p>In the town of Ipswich the masters of these ships generally +dwelt, and there were, as they then told me, above a hundred sail +of them, belonging to the town at one time, the least of which +carried fifteen score, as they compute it, that is, 300 chaldron +of coals; this was about the year 1668 (when I first knew the +place). This made the town be at that time so populous, for +those masters, as they had good ships at sea, so they had large +families who lived plentifully, and in very good houses in the +town, and several streets were chiefly inhabited by such.</p> +<p>The loss or decay of this trade accounts for the present +pretended decay of the town of Ipswich, of which I shall speak +more presently. The ships wore out, the masters died off, +the trade took a new turn; Dutch flyboats taken in the war, and +made free ships by Act of Parliament, thrust themselves into the +coal-trade for the interest of the captors, such as the Yarmouth +and London merchants, and others; and the Ipswich men dropped +gradually out of it, being discouraged by those Dutch +flyboats. These Dutch vessels, which cost nothing but the +caption, were bought cheap, carried great burthens, and the +Ipswich building fell off for want of price, and so the trade +decayed, and the town with it. I believe this will be owned +for the true beginning of their decay, if I must allow it to be +called a decay.</p> +<p>But to return to my passage up the river. In the +winter-time those great collier ships, above-mentioned, are +always laid up, as they call it; that is to say, the coal trade +abates at London, the citizens are generally furnished, their +stores taken in, and the demand is over; so that the great ships, +the northern seas and coast being also dangerous, the nights +long, and the voyage hazardous, go to sea no more, but lie by, +the ships are unrigged, the sails, etc., carried ashore, the +top-masts struck, and they ride moored in the river, under the +advantages and security of sound ground, and a high woody shore, +where they lie as safe as in a wet dock; and it was a very +agreeable sight to see, perhaps two hundred sail of ships, of all +sizes, lie in that posture every winter. All this while, +which was usually from Michaelmas to Lady Day, the masters lived +calm and secure with their families in Ipswich; and enjoying +plentifully, what in the summer they got laboriously at sea, and +this made the town of Ipswich very populous in the winter; for as +the masters, so most of the men, especially their mates, +boatswains, carpenters, etc., were of the same place, and lived +in their proportions, just as the masters did; so that in the +winter there might be perhaps a thousand men in the town more +than in the summer, and perhaps a greater number.</p> +<p>To justify what I advance here, that this town was formerly +very full of people, I ask leave to refer to the account of Mr. +Camden, and what it was in his time. His words are +these:—“Ipswich has a commodious harbour, has been +fortified with a ditch and rampart, has a great trade, and is +very populous, being adorned with fourteen churches, and large +private buildings.” This confirms what I have +mentioned of the former state of this town; but the present state +is my proper work; I therefore return to my voyage up the +river.</p> +<p>The sight of these ships thus laid up in the river, as I have +said, was very agreeable to me in my passage from Harwich, about +five and thirty years before the present journey; and it was in +its proportion equally melancholy to hear that there were now +scarce forty sail of good colliers that belonged to the whole +town.</p> +<p>In a creek in this river, called Lavington Creek, we saw at +low water such shoals, or hills rather, of mussels, that great +boats might have loaded with them, and no miss have been made of +them. Near this creek, Sir Samuel Barnadiston had a very +fine seat, as, also, a decoy for wild ducks, and a very noble +estate; but it is divided into many branches since the death of +the ancient possessor. But I proceed to the town, which is +the first in the county of Suffolk of any note this way.</p> +<p>Ipswich is seated, at the distance of twelve miles from +Harwich, upon the edge of the river, which, taking a short turn +to the west, the town forms, there, a kind of semicircle, or half +moon, upon the bank of the river. It is very remarkable, +that though ships of 500 ton may, upon a spring tide, come up +very near this town, and many ships of that burthen have been +built there, yet the river is not navigable any farther than the +town itself, or but very little; no, not for the smallest beats; +nor does the tide, which rises sometimes thirteen or fourteen +feet, and gives them twenty-four feet water very near the town, +flow much farther up the river than the town, or not so much as +to make it worth speaking of.</p> +<p>He took little notice of the town, or at least of that part of +Ipswich, who published in his wild observations on it that ships +of 200 ton are built there. I affirm, that I have seen a +ship of 400 ton launched at the building-yard, close to the town; +and I appeal to the Ipswich colliers (those few that remain) +belonging to this town, if several of them carrying seventeen +score of coals, which must be upward of 400 ton, have not +formerly been built here; but superficial observers must be +superficial writers, if they write at all; and to this day, at +John’s Ness, within a mile and a half of the town itself, +ships of any burthen may be built and launched even at neap +tides.</p> +<p>I am much mistaken, too, if since the Revolution some very +good ships have not been built at this town, and particularly the +<i>Melford</i> or <i>Milford</i> galley, a ship of forty guns; as +the <i>Greyhound</i> frigate, a man-of-war of thirty-six to forty +guns, was at John’s Ness. But what is this towards +lessening the town of Ipswich, any more than it would be to say, +they do not build men-of-war, or East India ships, or ships of +five hundred ton burden at St. Catherines, or at Battle Bridge in +the Thames? when we know that a mile or two lower, viz., at +Radcliffe, Limehouse, or Deptford, they build ships of a thousand +ton, and might build first-rate men-of-war too, if there was +occasion; and the like might be done in this river of Ipswich, +within about two or three miles of the town; so that it would not +be at all an out-of-the-way speaking to say, such a ship was +built at Ipswich, any more than it is to say, as they do, that +the <i>Royal Prince</i>, the great ship lately built for the +South Sea Company, was London built, because she was built at +Limehouse.</p> +<p>And why then is not Ipswich capable of building and receiving +the greatest ships in the navy, seeing they may be built and +brought up again laden, within a mile and half of the town?</p> +<p>But the neighbourhood of London, which sucks the vitals of +trade in this island to itself, is the chief reason of any decay +of business in this place; and I shall, in the course of these +observations, hint at it, where many good seaports and large +towns, though farther off than Ipswich, and as well fitted for +commerce, are yet swallowed up by the immense indraft of trade to +the City of London; and more decayed beyond all comparison than +Ipswich is supposed to be: as Southampton, Weymouth, Dartmouth, +and several others which I shall speak to in their order; and if +it be otherwise at this time, with some other towns, which are +lately increased in trade and navigation, wealth, and people, +while their neighbours decay, it is because they have some +particular trade, or accident to trade, which is a kind of +nostrum to them, inseparable to the place, and which fixes there +by the nature of the thing; as the herring-fishery to Yarmouth; +the coal trade to Newcastle; the Leeds clothing trade; the export +of butter and lead, and the great corn trade for Holland, is to +Hull; the Virginia and West India trade at Liverpool; the Irish +trade at Bristol, and the like. Thus the war has brought a +flux of business and people, and consequently of wealth, to +several places, as well as to Portsmouth, Chatham, Plymouth, +Falmouth, and others; and were any wars like those, to continue +twenty years with the Dutch, or any nation whose fleets lay that +way, as the Dutch do, it would be the like perhaps at Ipswich in +a few years, and at other places on the same coast.</p> +<p>But at this present time an occasion offers to speak in favour +of this port; namely, the Greenland fishery, lately proposed to +be carried on by the South Sea Company. On which account I +may freely advance this, without any compliment to the town of +Ipswich, no place in Britain is equally qualified like Ipswich; +whether we respect the cheapness of building and fitting out +their ships and shallops; also furnishing, victualling, and +providing them with all kinds of stores; convenience for laying +up the ships after the voyage, room for erecting their magazines, +warehouses, rope walks, cooperages, etc., on the easiest terms; +and especially for the noisome cookery, which attends the boiling +their blubber, which may be on this river (as it ought to be) +remote from any places of resort. Then their nearness to +the market for the oil when it is made, and which, above all, +ought to be the chief thing considered in that trade, the +easiness of their putting out to sea when they begin their +voyage, in which the same wind that carries them from the mouth +of the haven, is fair to the very seas of Greenland.</p> +<p>I could say much more to this point if it were needful, and in +few words could easily prove, that Ipswich must have the +preference of all the port towns of Britain, for being the best +centre of the Greenland trade, if ever that trade fall into the +management of such a people as perfectly understand, and have a +due honest regard to its being managed with the best husbandry, +and to the prosperity of the undertaking in general. But +whether we shall ever arrive at so happy a time as to recover so +useful a trade to our country, which our ancestors had the honour +to be the first undertakers of, and which has been lost only +through the indolence of others, and the increasing vigilance of +our neighbours, that is not my business here to dispute.</p> +<p>What I have said is only to let the world see what improvement +this town and port is capable of; I cannot think but that +Providence, which made nothing in vain, cannot have reserved so +useful, so convenient a port to lie vacant in the world, but that +the time will some time or other come (especially considering the +improving temper of the present age) when some peculiar +beneficial business may be found out, to make the port of Ipswich +as useful to the world, and the town as flourishing, as Nature +has made it proper and capable to be.</p> +<p>As for the town, it is true, it is but thinly inhabited, in +comparison of the extent of it; but to say there are hardly any +people to be seen there, is far from being true in fact; and +whoever thinks fit to look into the churches and meeting-houses +on a Sunday, or other public days, will find there are very great +numbers of people there. Or if he thinks fit to view the +market, and see how the large shambles, called Cardinal +Wolsey’s Butchery, are furnished with meat, and the rest of +the market stocked with other provisions, must acknowledge that +it is not for a few people that all those things are +provided. A person very curious, and on whose veracity I +think I may depend, going through the market in this town, told +me, that he reckoned upwards of six hundred country people on +horseback and on foot, with baskets and other carriage, who had +all of them brought something or other to town to sell, besides +the butchers, and what came in carts and waggons.</p> +<p>It happened to be my lot to be once at this town at the time +when a very fine new ship, which was built there for some +merchants of London, was to be launched; and if I may give my +guess at the numbers of people which appeared on the shore, in +the houses, and on the river, I believe I am much within compass +if I say there were 20,000 people to see it; but this is only a +guess, or they might come a great way to see the sight, or the +town may be declined farther since that. But a view of the +town is one of the surest rules for a gross estimate.</p> +<p>It is true here is no settled manufacture. The French +refugees when they first came over to England began a little to +take to this place, and some merchants attempted to set up a +linen manufacture in their favour; but it has not met with so +much success as was expected, and at present I find very little +of it. The poor people are, however, employed, as they are +all over these counties, in spinning wool for other towns where +manufactures are settled.</p> +<p>The country round Ipswich, as are all the counties so near the +coast, is applied chiefly to corn, of which a very great quantity +is continually shipped off for London; and sometimes they load +corn here for Holland, especially if the market abroad is +encouraging. They have twelve parish churches in this town, +with three or four meetings; but there are not so many Quakers +here as at Colchester, and no Anabaptists or Antipoedo Baptists, +that I could hear of—at least, there is no meeting-house of +that denomination. There is one meeting-house for the +Presbyterians, one for the Independents and one for the Quakers; +the first is as large and as fine a building of that kind as most +on this side of England, and the inside the best finished of any +I have seen, London not excepted; that for the Independents is a +handsome new-built building, but not so gay or so large as the +other.</p> +<p>There is a great deal of very good company in this town, and +though there are not so many of the gentry here as at Bury, yet +there are more here than in any other town in the county; and I +observed particularly that the company you meet with here are +generally persons well informed of the world, and who have +something very solid and entertaining in their society. +This may happen, perhaps, by their frequent conversing with those +who have been abroad, and by their having a remnant of gentlemen +and masters of ships among them who have seen more of the world +than the people of an inland town are likely to have seen. +I take this town to be one of the most agreeable places in +England for families who have lived well, but may have suffered +in our late calamities of stocks and bubbles, to retreat to, +where they may live within their own compass; and several things +indeed recommend it to such:—</p> +<p class="gutindent">1. Good houses at very easy rents.</p> +<p class="gutindent">2. An airy, clean, and well-governed +town.</p> +<p class="gutindent">3. Very agreeable and improving +company almost of every kind.</p> +<p class="gutindent">4. A wonderful plenty of all manner of +provisions, whether flesh or fish, and very good of the kind.</p> +<p class="gutindent">5. Those provisions very cheap, so +that a family may live cheaper here than in any town in England +of its bigness within such a small distance from London.</p> +<p class="gutindent">6. Easy passage to London, either by +land or water, the coach going through to London in a day.</p> +<p>The Lord Viscount Hereford has a very fine seat and park in +this town; the house indeed is old built, but very commodious; it +is called Christ Church, having been, as it is said, a priory or +religious house in former times. The green and park is a +great addition to the pleasantness of this town, the inhabitants +being allowed to divert themselves there with walking, bowling, +etc.</p> +<p>The large spire steeple, which formerly stood upon that they +call the tower church, was blown down by a great storm of wind +many years ago, and in its a fall did much damage to the +church.</p> +<p>The government of this town is by two bailiffs, as at +Yarmouth. Mr. Camden says they are chosen out of twelve +burgesses called portmen, and two justices out of twenty-four +more. There has been lately a very great struggle between +the two parties for the choice of these two magistrates, which +had this amicable conclusion—namely, that they chose one of +either side; so that neither party having the victory, it is to +be hoped it may be a means to allay the heats and unneighbourly +feuds which such things breed in towns so large as this is. +They send two members to Parliament, whereof those at this time +are Sir William Thompson, Recorder of London, and Colonel Negus, +Deputy Master of the Horse to the king.</p> +<p>There are some things very curious to be seen here, however +some superficial writers have been ignorant of them. Dr. +Beeston, an eminent physician, began a few years ago a physic +garden adjoining to his house in this town; and as he is +particularly curious, and, as I was told, exquisitely skilled in +botanic knowledge, so he has been not only very diligent, but +successful too, in making a collection of rare and exotic plants, +such as are scarce to be equalled in England.</p> +<p>One Mr. White, a surgeon, resides also in this town. But +before I speak of this gentleman, I must observe that I say +nothing from personal knowledge; though if I did, I have too good +an opinion of his sense to believe he would be pleased with being +flattered or complimented in print. But I must be true to +matter of fact. This gentleman has begun a collection or +chamber of rarities, and with good success too. I +acknowledge I had not the opportunity of seeing them; but I was +told there are some things very curious in it, as particularly a +sea-horse carefully preserved, and perfect in all its parts; two +Roman urns full of ashes of human bodies, and supposed to be +above 1,700 years old; besides a great many valuable medals and +ancient coins. My friend who gave me this account, and of +whom I think I may say he speaks without bias, mentions this +gentleman, Mr. White, with some warmth as a very valuable person +in his particular employ of a surgeon. I only repeat his +words. “Mr. White,” says he, “to whom the +whole town and country are greatly indebted and obliged to pray +for his life, is our most skilful surgeon.” These, I +say, are his own words, and I add nothing to them but this, that +it is happy for a town to have such a surgeon, as it is for a +surgeon to have such a character.</p> +<p>The country round Ipswich, as if qualified on purpose to +accommodate the town for building of ships, is an inexhaustible +store-house of timber, of which, now their trade of building +ships is abated, they send very great quantities to the +king’s building-yards at Chatham, which by water is so +little a way that they often run to it from the mouth of the +river at Harwich in one tide.</p> +<p>From Ipswich I took a turn into the country to Hadleigh, +principally to satisfy my curiosity and see the place where that +famous martyr and pattern of charity and religious zeal in Queen +Mary’s time, Dr. Rowland Taylor, was put to death. +The inhabitants, who have a wonderful veneration for his memory, +show the very place where the stake which he was bound to was set +up, and they have put a stone upon it which nobody will remove; +but it is a more lasting monument to him that he lives in the +hearts of the people—I say more lasting than a tomb of +marble would be, for the memory of that good man will certainly +never be out of the poor people’s minds as long as this +island shall retain the Protestant religion among them. How +long that may be, as things are going, and if the detestable +conspiracy of the Papists now on foot should succeed, I will not +pretend to say.</p> +<p>A little to the left is Sudbury, which stands upon the River +Stour, mentioned above—a river which parts the counties of +Suffolk and Essex, and which is within these few years made +navigable to this town, though the navigation does not, it seems, +answer the charge, at least not to advantage.</p> +<p>I know nothing for which this town is remarkable, except for +being very populous and very poor. They have a great +manufacture of says and perpetuanas, and multitudes of poor +people are employed in working them; but the number of the poor +is almost ready to eat up the rich. However, this town +sends two members to Parliament, though it is under no form of +government particularly to itself other than as a village, the +head magistrate whereof is a constable.</p> +<p>Near adjoining to it is a village called Long Melfort, and a +very long one it is, from which I suppose it had that addition to +its name; it is full of very good houses, and, as they told me, +is richer, and has more wealthy masters of the manufacture in it, +than in Sudbury itself.</p> +<p>Here and in the neighbourhood are some ancient families of +good note; particularly here is a fine dwelling, the ancient seat +of the Cordells, whereof Sir William Cordell was Master of the +Rolls in the time of Queen Elizabeth; but the family is now +extinct, the last heir, Sir John Cordell, being killed by a fall +from his horse, died unmarried, leaving three sisters +co-heiresses to a very noble estate, most of which, if not all, +is now centred on the only surviving sister, and with her in +marriage is given to Mr. Firebrass, eldest son of Sir Basil +Firebrass, formerly a flourishing merchant in London, but reduced +by many disasters. His family now rises by the good fortune +of his son, who proves to be a gentleman of very agreeable parts, +and well esteemed in the country.</p> +<p>From this part of the country, I returned north-west by +Lenham, to visit St. Edmund’s Bury, a town of which other +writers have talked very largely, and perhaps a little too +much. It is a town famed for its pleasant situation and +wholesome air, the Montpelier of Suffolk, and perhaps of +England. This must be attributed to the skill of the monks +of those times, who chose so beautiful a situation for the seat +of their retirement; and who built here the greatest and, in its +time, the most flourishing monastery in all these parts of +England, I mean the monastery of St. Edmund the Martyr. It +was, if we believe antiquity, a house of pleasure in more ancient +times, or to speak more properly, a court of some of the Saxon or +East Angle kings; and, as Mr. Camden says, was even then called a +royal village, though it much better merits that name now; it +being the town of all this part of England, in proportion to its +bigness, most thronged with gentry, people of the best fashion, +and the most polite conversation. This beauty and +healthiness of its situation was no doubt the occasion which drew +the clergy to settle here, for they always chose the best places +in the country to build in, either for richness of soil, or for +health and pleasure in the situation of their religious +houses.</p> +<p>For the like reason, I doubt not, they translated the bones of +the martyred king St. Edmund to this place; for it is a vulgar +error to say he was murdered here. His martyrdom, it is +plain, was at Hoxon or Henilsdon, near Harlston, on the Waveney, +in the farthest northern verge of the county; but Segebert, king +of the East Angles, had built a religions house in this pleasant +rich part of the county; and as the monks began to taste the +pleasure of the place, they procured the body of this saint to be +removed hither, which soon increased the wealth and revenues of +their house, by the zeal of that day, in going on pilgrimage to +the shrine of the blessed St. Edmund.</p> +<p>We read, however, that after this the Danes, under King Sweno, +over-running this part of the country, destroyed this monastery +and burnt it to the ground, with the church and town. But +see the turn religion gives to things in the world; his son, King +Canutus, at first a Pagan and a tyrant, and the most cruel +ravager of all that crew, coming to turn Christian, and being +touched in conscience for the soul of his father, in having +robbed God and his holy martyr St. Edmund, sacrilegiously +destroying the church, and plundering the monastery; I say, +touched with remorse, and, as the monks pretend, terrified with a +vision of St. Edmund appearing to him, he rebuilt the house, the +church, and the town also, and very much added to the wealth of +the abbot and his fraternity, offering his crown at the feet of +St. Edmund, giving the house to the monks, town and all; so that +they were absolute lords of the town, and governed it by their +steward for many ages. He also gave them a great many good +lordships, which they enjoyed till the general suppression of +abbeys, in the time of Henry VIII.</p> +<p>But I am neither writing the history or searching the +antiquity of the abbey, or town; my business is the present state +of the place.</p> +<p>The abbey is demolished; its ruins are all that is to be seen +of its glory: out of the old building, two very beautiful +churches are built, and serve the two parishes, into which the +town is divided, and they stand both in one churchyard. +Here it was, in the path-way between these two churches, that a +tragical and almost unheard-of act of barbarity was committed, +which made the place less pleasant for some time than it used to +be, when Arundel Coke, Esq., a barrister-at-law, of a very +ancient family, attempted, with the assistance of a barbarous +assassin, to murder in cold blood, and in the arms of +hospitality, Edward Crisp, Esq., his brother-in-law, leading him +out from his own house, where he had invited him, his wife and +children, to supper; I say, leading him out in the night, on +pretence of going to see some friend that was known to them both; +but in this churchyard, giving a signal to the assassin he had +hired, he attacked him with a hedge-bill, and cut him, as one +might say, almost in pieces; and when they did not doubt of his +being dead, they left him. His head and face was so +mangled, that it may be said to be next to a miracle that he was +not quite killed: yet so Providence directed for the exemplary +punishment of the assassins, that the gentleman recovered to +detect them, who (though he outlived the assault) were both +executed as they deserved, and Mr. Crisp is yet alive. They +were condemned on the statute for defacing and dismembering, +called the Coventry Act.</p> +<p>But this accident does not at all lessen the pleasure and +agreeable delightful show of the town of Bury; it is crowded with +nobility and gentry, and all sorts of the most agreeable company; +and as the company invites, so there is the appearance of +pleasure upon the very situation; and they that live at Bury are +supposed to live there for the sake of it.</p> +<p>The Lord Jermin, afterwards Lord Dover, and, since his +lordship’s decease, Sir Robert Davers, enjoyed the most +delicious seat of Rushbrook, near this town.</p> +<p>The present members of Parliament for this place are Jermyn +Davers and James Reynolds, Esquires.</p> +<p>Mr. Harvey, afterwards created Lord Harvey, by King William, +and since that made Earl of Bristol by King George, lived many +years in this town, leaving a noble and pleasantly situated house +in Lincolnshire, for the more agreeable living on a spot so +completely qualified for a life of delight as this of Bury.</p> +<p>The Duke of Grafton, now Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, has also +a stately house at Euston, near this town, which he enjoys in +right of his mother, daughter to the Earl of Arlington, one of +the chief ministers of State in the reign of King Charles II., +and who made the second letter in the word “cabal,” a +word formed by that famous satirist Andrew Marvell, to represent +the five heads of the politics of that time, as the word +“smectymnus” was on a former occasion.</p> +<p>I shall believe nothing so scandalous of the ladies of this +town and the country round it as a late writer insinuates. +That the ladies round the country appear mighty gay and agreeable +at the time of the fair in this town I acknowledge; one hardly +sees such a show in any part of the world; but to suggest they +come hither, as to a market, is so coarse a jest, that the +gentlemen that wait on them hither (for they rarely come but in +good company) ought to resent and correct him for it.</p> +<p>It is true, Bury Fair, like Bartholomew Fair, is a fair for +diversion, more than for trade; and it may be a fair for toys and +for trinkets, which the ladies may think fit to lay out some of +their money in, as they see occasion. But to judge from +thence that the knights’ daughters of Norfolk, +Cambridgeshire, and Suffolk—that is to say, for it cannot +be understood any otherwise, the daughters of all the gentry of +the three counties—come hither to be picked up, is a way of +speaking I never before heard any author have the assurance to +make use of in print.</p> +<p>The assembly he justly commends for the bright appearance of +the beauties; but with a sting in the tail of this compliment, +where he says they seldom end without some considerable match or +intrigue; and yet he owns that during the fair these assemblies +are held every night. Now that these fine ladies go +intriguing every night, and that too after the comedy is done, +which is after the fair and raffling is over for the day, so that +it must be very late. This is a terrible character for the +ladies of Bury, and intimates, in short, that most of them are +loose women, which is a horrid abuse upon the whole country.</p> +<p>Now, though I like not the assemblies at all, and shall in +another place give them something of their due, yet having the +opportunity to see the fair at Bury, and to see that there were, +indeed, abundance of the finest ladies, or as fine as any in +Britain, yet I must own the number of the ladies at the comedy, +or at the assembly, is no way equal to the number that are seen +in the town, much less are they equal to the whole body of the +ladies in the three counties; and I must also add, that though it +is far from true that all that appear at the assembly are there +for matches or intrigues, yet I will venture to say that they are +not the worst of the ladies who stay away, neither are they the +fewest in number or the meanest in beauty, but just the contrary; +and I do not at all doubt, but that the scandalous liberty some +take at those assemblies will in time bring them out of credit +with the virtuous part of the sex here, as it has done already in +Kent and other places, and that those ladies who most value their +reputation will be seen less there than they have been; for +though the institution of them has been innocent and virtuous, +the ill use of them, and the scandalous behaviour of some people +at them, will in time arm virtue against them, and they will be +laid down as they have been set up without much satisfaction.</p> +<p>But the beauty of this town consists in the number of gentry +who dwell in and near it, the polite conversation among them, the +affluence and plenty they live in, the sweet air they breathe in, +and the pleasant country they have to go abroad in.</p> +<p>Here is no manufacturing in this town, or but very little, +except spinning, the chief trade of the place depending upon the +gentry who live there, or near it, and who cannot fail to cause +trade enough by the expense of their families and equipages among +the people of a county town. They have but a very small +river, or rather but a very small branch of a small river, at +this town, which runs from hence to Milden Hall, on the edge of +the fens. However, the town and gentlemen about have been +at the charge, or have so encouraged the engineer who was at the +charge, that they have made this river navigable to the said +Milden Hall, from whence there is a navigable dyke, called Milden +Hall Drain, which goes into the River Ouse, and so to Lynn; so +that all their coal and wine, iron, lead, and other heavy goods, +are brought by water from Lynn, or from London, by the way of +Lynn, to the great ease of the tradesmen.</p> +<p>This town is famous for two great events. One was that +in the year 1447, in the 25th year of Henry VI., a Parliament was +held here.</p> +<p>The other was, that at the meeting of this Parliament, the +great Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, regent of the kingdom during +the absence of King Henry V. and the minority of Henry VI., and +to his last hour the safeguard of the whole nation, and darling +of the people, was basely murdered here; by whose death the gate +was opened to that dreadful war between the houses of Lancaster +and York, which ended in the confusion of that very race who are +supposed to have contrived that murder.</p> +<p>From St. Edmund’s Bury I returned by Stowmarket and +Needham to Ipswich, that I might keep as near the coast as was +proper to my designed circuit or journey; and from Ipswich, to +visit the sea again, I went to Woodbridge, and from thence to +Orford, on the sea side.</p> +<p>Woodbridge has nothing remarkable, but that it is a +considerable market for butter and corn to be exported to London; +for now begins that part which is ordinarily called High Suffolk, +which, being a rich soil, is for a long tract of ground wholly +employed in dairies, and they again famous for the best butter, +and perhaps the worst cheese, in England. The butter is +barrelled, or often pickled up in small casks, and sold, not in +London only, but I have known a firkin of Suffolk butter sent to +the West Indies, and brought back to England again, and has been +perfectly good and sweet, as at first.</p> +<p>The port for the shipping off their Suffolk butter is chiefly +Woodbridge, which for that reason is full of corn factors and +butter factors, some of whom are very considerable merchants.</p> +<p>From hence, turning down to the shore, we see Orfordness, a +noted point of land for the guide of the colliers and coasters, +and a good shelter for them to ride under when a strong +north-east wind blows and makes a foul shore on the coast.</p> +<p>South of the Ness is Orford Haven, being the mouth of two +little rivers meeting together. It is a very good harbour +for small vessels, but not capable of receiving a ship of +burden.</p> +<p>Orford was once a good town, but is decayed, and as it stands +on the land side of the river the sea daily throws up more land +to it, and falls off itself from it, as if it was resolved to +disown the place, and that it should be a seaport no longer.</p> +<p>A little farther lies Aldborough, as thriving, though without +a port, as the other is decaying, with a good river in the front +of it.</p> +<p>There are some gentlemen’s seats up farther from the +sea, but very few upon the coast.</p> +<p>From Aldborough to Dunwich there are no towns of note; even +this town seems to be in danger of being swallowed up, for fame +reports that once they had fifty churches in the town; I saw but +one left, and that not half full of people.</p> +<p>This town is a testimony of the decay of public things, things +of the most durable nature; and as the old poet expresses it,</p> +<blockquote><p>“By numerous examples we may see,<br /> +That towns and cities die as well as we.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The ruins of Carthage, of the great city of Jerusalem, or of +ancient Rome, are not at all wonderful to me. The ruins of +Nineveh, which are so entirety sunk as that it is doubtful where +the city stood; the ruins of Babylon, or the great Persepolis, +and many capital cities, which time and the change of monarchies +have overthrown, these, I say, are not at all wonderful, because +being the capitals of great and flourishing kingdoms, where those +kingdoms were overthrown, the capital cities necessarily fell +with them; but for a private town, a seaport, and a town of +commerce, to decay, as it were, of itself (for we never read of +Dunwich being plundered or ruined by any disaster, at least, not +of late years); this, I must confess, seems owing to nothing but +to the fate of things, by which we see that towns, kings, +countries, families, and persons, have all their elevation, their +medium, their declination, and even their destruction in the womb +of time, and the course of nature. It is true, this town is +manifestly decayed by the invasion of the waters, and as other +towns seem sufferers by the sea, or the tide withdrawing from +their ports, such as Orford, just now named, Winchelsea in Kent, +and the like, so this town is, as it were, eaten up by the sea, +as above; and the still encroaching ocean seems to threaten it +with a fatal immersion in a few years more.</p> +<p>Yet Dunwich, however ruined, retains some share of trade, as +particularly for the shipping of butter, cheese, and corn, which +is so great a business in this county, that it employs a great +many people and ships also; and this port lies right against the +particular part of the county for butter, as Framlingham, +Halstead, etc. Also a very great quantity of corn is bought +up hereabout for the London market; for I shall still touch that +point how all the counties in England contribute something +towards the subsistence of the great city of London, of which the +butter here is a very considerable article; as also coarse +cheese, which I mentioned before, used chiefly for the +king’s ships.</p> +<p>Hereabouts they begin to talk of herrings and the fishery; and +we find in the ancient records that this town, which was then +equal to a large city, paid, among other tribute to the +government, fifty thousand of herrings. Here also, and at +Swole, or Southole, the next seaport, they cure sprats in the +same manner as they do herrings at Yarmouth; that is to say, +speaking in their own language, they make red sprats; or to speak +good English, they make sprats red.</p> +<p>It is remarkable that this town is now so much washed away by +the sea, that what little trade they have is carried on by +Walderswick, a little town near Swole, the vessels coming in +there, because the ruins of Dunwich make the shore there unsafe +and uneasy to the boats; from whence the northern coasting seamen +a rude verse of their own using, and I suppose of their own +making, as follows,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Swoul and Dunwich, and Walderswick,<br /> +All go in at one lousie creek.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This “lousie creek,” in short, is a little river +at Swoul, which our late famous atlas-maker calls a good harbour +for ships, and rendezvous of the royal navy; but that by-the-bye; +the author, it seems, knew no better.</p> +<p>From Dunwich we came to Southwold, the town above-named: this +is a small port town upon the coast, at the mouth of a little +river called the Blith. I found no business the people here +were employed in but the fishery, as above, for herrings and +sprats, which they cure by the help of smoke, as they do at +Yarmouth.</p> +<p>There is but one church in this town, but it is a very large +one and well built, as most of the churches in this county are, +and of impenetrable flint; indeed, there is no occasion for its +being so large, for staying there one Sabbath day, I was +surprised to see an extraordinary large church, capable of +receiving five or six thousand people, and but twenty-seven in it +besides the parson and the clerk; but at the same time the +meeting-house of the Dissenters was full to the very doors, +having, as I guessed, from six to eight hundred people in it.</p> +<p>This town is made famous for a very great engagement at sea, +in the year 1672, between the English and Dutch fleets, in the +bay opposite to the town, in which, not to be partial to +ourselves, the English fleet was worsted; and the brave Montague, +Earl of Sandwich, Admiral under the Duke of York, lost his +life. The ship <i>Royal Prince</i>, carrying one hundred +guns, in which he was, and which was under him, commanded by Sir +Edward Spragg, was burnt, and several other ships lost, and about +six hundred seamen; part of those killed in the fight were, as I +was told, brought on shore here and buried in the churchyard of +this town, as others also were at Ipswich.</p> +<p>At this town in particular, and so at all the towns on this +coast, from Orfordness to Yarmouth, is the ordinary place where +our summer friends the swallows first land when they come to +visit us; and here they may be said to embark for their return, +when they go back into warmer climates; and as I think the +following remark, though of so trifling a circumstance, may be +both instructing as well as diverting, it may be very proper in +this place. The case is this; I was some years before at +this place, at the latter end of the year, viz., about the +beginning of October, and lodging in a house that looked into the +churchyard, I observed in the evening, an unusual multitude of +birds sitting on the leads of the church. Curiosity led me +to go nearer to see what they were, and I found they were all +swallows; that there was such an infinite number that they +covered the whole roof of the church, and of several houses near, +and perhaps might of more houses which I did not see. This +led me to inquire of a grave gentleman whom I saw near me, what +the meaning was of such a prodigious multitude of swallows +sitting there. “Oh, sir,” says he, turning +towards the sea, “you may see the reason; the wind is off +sea.” I did not seem fully informed by that +expression, so he goes on, “I perceive, sir,” says +he, “you are a stranger to it; you must then understand +first, that this is the season of the year when the swallows, +their food here failing, begin to leave us, and return to the +country, wherever it be, from whence I suppose they came; and +this being the nearest to the coast of Holland, they come here to +embark” (this he said smiling a little); “and now, +sir,” says he, “the weather being too calm or the +wind contrary, they are waiting for a gale, for they are all +wind-bound.”</p> +<p>This was more evident to me, when in the morning I found the +wind had come about to the north-west in the night, and there was +not one swallow to be seen of near a million, which I believe was +there the night before.</p> +<p>How those creatures know that this part of the Island of Great +Britain is the way to their home, or the way that they are to go; +that this very point is the nearest cut over, or even that the +nearest cut is best for them, that we must leave to the +naturalists to determine, who insist upon it that brutes cannot +think.</p> +<p>Certain it is that the swallows neither come hither for warm +weather nor retire from cold; the thing is of quite another +nature. They, like the shoals of fish in the sea, pursue +their prey; they are a voracious creature, they feed flying; +their food is found in the air, viz., the insects, of which in +our summer evenings, in damp and moist places, the air is +full. They come hither in the summer because our air is +fuller of fogs and damps than in other countries, and for that +reason feeds great quantities of insects. If the air be hot +and dry the gnats die of themselves, and even the swallows will +be found famished for want, and fall down dead out of the air, +their food being taken from them. In like manner, when cold +weather comes in the insects all die, and then of necessity the +swallows quit us, and follow their food wherever they go. +This they do in the manner I have mentioned above, for sometimes +they are seen to go off in vast flights like a cloud. And +sometimes again, when the wind grows fair, they go away a few and +a few as they come, not staying at all upon the coast.</p> +<p><i>Note</i>.—This passing and re-passing of the swallows +is observed nowhere so much, that I have heard of, or in but few +other places, except on this eastern coast, namely, from above +Harwich to the east point of Norfolk, called Winterton Ness, +North, which is all right against Holland. We know nothing +of them any farther north, the passage of the sea being, as I +suppose, too broad from Flamborough Head and the shore of +Holderness in Yorkshire, etc.</p> +<p>I find very little remarkable on this side of Suffolk, but +what is on the sea-shore as above. The inland country is +that which they properly call High Suffolk, and is full of rich +feeding grounds and large farms, mostly employed in dairies for +making the Suffolk butter and cheese, of which I have spoken +already. Among these rich grounds stand some market towns, +though not of very considerable note; such as Framlingham, where +was once a royal castle, to which Queen Mary retired when the +Northumberland faction, in behalf of the Lady Jane, endeavoured +to supplant her. And it was this part of Suffolk where the +Gospellers, as they were then called, preferred their loyalty to +their religion, and complimented the Popish line at expense of +their share of the Reformation. But they paid dear for it, +and their successors have learned better politics since.</p> +<p>In these parts are also several good market towns, some in +this county and some in the other, as Beccles, Bungay, Harlston, +etc., all on the edge of the River Waveney, which parts here the +counties of Suffolk and Norfolk. And here in a bye-place, +and out of common remark, lies the ancient town of Hoxon, famous +for being the place where St. Edmund was martyred, for whom so +many cells and shrines have been set up and monasteries built, +and in honour of whom the famous monastery of St. Edmundsbury, +above mentioned, was founded, which most people erroneously think +was the place where the said murder was committed.</p> +<p>Besides the towns mentioned above, there are Halesworth, +Saxmundham, Debenham, Aye, or Eye, all standing in this eastern +side of Suffolk, in which, as I have said, the whole country is +employed in dairies or in feeding of cattle.</p> +<p>This part of England is also remarkable for being the first +where the feeding and fattening of cattle, both sheep as well as +black cattle, with turnips, was first practised in England, which +is made a very great part of the improvement of their lands to +this day, and from whence the practice is spread over most of the +east and south parts of England to the great enriching of the +farmers and increase of fat cattle. And though some have +objected against the goodness of the flesh thus fed with turnips, +and have fancied it would taste of the root, yet upon experience +it is found that at market there is no difference, nor can they +that buy single out one joint of mutton from another by the +taste. So that the complaint which our nice palates at +first made begins to cease of itself, and a very great quantity +of beef and mutton also is brought every year and every week to +London from this side of England, and much more than was formerly +known to be fed there.</p> +<p>I cannot omit, however little it may seem, that this county of +Suffolk is particularly famous for furnishing the City of London +and all the counties round with turkeys, and that it is thought +there are more turkeys bred in this county and the part of +Norfolk that adjoins to it than in all the rest of England, +especially for sale, though this may be reckoned, as I say above, +but a trifling thing to take notice of in these remarks; yet, as +I have hinted, that I shall observe how London is in general +supplied with all its provisions from the whole body of the +nation, and how every part of the island is engaged in some +degree or other of that supply. On this account I could not +omit it, nor will it be found so inconsiderable an article as +some may imagine, if this be true, which I received an account of +from a person living on the place, viz., that they have counted +three hundred droves of turkeys (for they drive them all in +droves on foot) pass in one season over Stratford Bridge on the +River Stour, which parts Suffolk from Essex, about six miles from +Colchester, on the road from Ipswich to London. These +droves, as they say, generally contain from three hundred to a +thousand each drove; so that one may suppose them to contain five +hundred one with another, which is one hundred and fifty thousand +in all; and yet this is one of the least passages, the numbers +which travel by Newmarket Heath and the open country and the +forest, and also the numbers that come by Sudbury and Clare being +many more.</p> +<p>For the further supplies of the markets of London with +poultry, of which these countries particularly abound, they have +within these few years found it practicable to make the geese +travel on foot too, as well as the turkeys, and a prodigious +number are brought up to London in droves from the farthest parts +of Norfolk; even from the fen country about Lynn, Downham, +Wisbech, and the Washes; as also from all the east side of +Norfolk and Suffolk, of whom it is very frequent now to meet +droves with a thousand, sometimes two thousand in a drove. +They begin to drive them generally in August, by which time the +harvest is almost over, and the geese may feed in the stubbles as +they go. Thus they hold on to the end of October, when the +roads begin to be too stiff and deep for their broad feet and +short legs to march in.</p> +<p>Besides these methods of driving these creatures on foot, they +have of late also invented a new method of carriage, being carts +formed on purpose, with four stories or stages to put the +creatures in one above another, by which invention one cart will +carry a very great number; and for the smoother going they drive +with two horses abreast, like a coach, so quartering the road for +the ease of the gentry that thus ride. Changing horses, +they travel night and day, so that they bring the fowls seventy, +eighty, or, one hundred miles in two days and one night. +The horses in this new-fashioned voiture go two abreast, as +above, but no perch below, as in a coach, but they are fastened +together by a piece of wood lying crosswise upon their necks, by +which they are kept even and together, and the driver sits on the +top of the cart like as in the public carriages for the army, +etc.</p> +<p>In this manner they hurry away the creatures alive, and +infinite numbers are thus carried to London every year. +This method is also particular for the carrying young turkeys or +turkey poults in their season, which are valuable, and yield a +good price at market; as also for live chickens in the dear +seasons, of all which a very great number are brought in this +manner to London, and more prodigiously out of this country than +any other part of England, which is the reason of my speaking of +it here.</p> +<p>In this part, which we call High Suffolk, there are not so +many families of gentry or nobility placed as in the other side +of the country. But it is observed that though their seats +are not so frequent here, their estates are; and the pleasure of +West Suffolk is much of it supported by the wealth of High +Suffolk, for the richness of the lands and application of the +people to all kinds of improvement is scarce credible; also the +farmers are so very considerable and their farms and dairies so +large that it is very frequent for a farmer to have £1,000 +stock upon his farm in cows only.</p> +<h3><span class="smcap">Norfolk</span>.</h3> +<p>From High Suffolk I passed the Waveney into Norfolk, near +Schole Inn. In my passage I saw at Redgrave (the seat of +the family) a most exquisite monument of Sir John Holt, Knight, +late Lord Chief Justice of the King’s Bench several years, +and one of the most eminent lawyers of his time. One of the +heirs of the family is now building a fine seat about a mile on +the south side of Ipswich, near the road.</p> +<p>The epitaph or inscription on this monument is as +follows:—</p> +<p style="text-align: center">M. S.<br /> +D. Johannis Holt, <i>Equitis Aur</i>.<br /> +<i>Totius Angliæ in Banco Regis</i><br /> +<i>per</i> 21 <i>Annos continuos</i><br /> +Capitalis Justitiarii<br /> +<i>Gulielmo Regi Annæqur Reginæ</i><br /> +<i>Consiliarii perpetui</i>:<br /> +<i>Libertatis ac Legum Anglicarum</i><br /> +<i>Assertoris</i>, <i>Vindicis</i>, <i>Custodis</i>,<br /> +<i>Vigilis Acris & intrepidi</i>,<br /> +<i>Rolandus Frater Uncius & Hæres</i><br /> +<i>Optime de se Merito</i><br /> +<i>posuit</i>,<br /> +<i>Die Martis Vto</i>. 1709. <i>Sublatus est</i><br /> +<i>ex Oculis nostris</i><br /> +<i>Natus</i> 30 <i>Decembris</i>, <i>Anno</i> 1642.</p> +<p>When we come into Norfolk, we see a face of diligence spread +over the whole country; the vast manufactures carried on (in +chief) by the Norwich weavers employs all the country round in +spinning yarn for them; besides many thousand packs of yarn which +they receive from other countries, even from as far as Yorkshire +and Westmoreland, of which I shall speak in its place.</p> +<p>This side of Norfolk is very populous, and thronged with great +and spacious market-towns, more and larger than any other part of +England so far from London, except Devonshire, and the West +Riding of Yorkshire; for example, between the frontiers of +Suffolk and the city of Norwich on this side, which is not above +22 miles in breadth, are the following market-towns, +viz.:—</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Thetford,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Hingham,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Harleston,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Diss,</p> +</td> +<td><p>West Dereham,</p> +</td> +<td><p>E. Dereham,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Harling,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Attleborough,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Watton,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bucknam,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Windham,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Loddon, etc.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Most of these towns are very populous and large; but that +which is most remarkable is, that the whole country round them is +so interspersed with villages, and those villages so large, and +so full of people, that they are equal to market-towns in other +countries; in a word, they render this eastern part of Norfolk +exceeding full of inhabitants.</p> +<p>An eminent weaver of Norwich gave me a scheme of their trade +on this occasion, by which, calculating from the number of looms +at that time employed in the city of Norwich only, besides those +employed in other towns in the same county, he made it appear +very plain, that there were 120,000 people employed in the +woollen and silk and wool manufactures of that city only; not +that the people all lived in the city, though Norwich is a very +large and populous city too: but, I say, they were employed for +spinning the yarn used for such goods as were all made in that +city. This account is curious enough, and very exact, but +it is too long for the compass of this work.</p> +<p>This shows the wonderful extent of the Norwich manufacture, or +stuff-weaving trade, by which so many thousands of families are +maintained. Their trade, indeed, felt a very sensible +decay, and the cries of the poor began to be very loud, when the +wearing of painted calicoes was grown to such a height in +England, as was seen about two or three years ago; but an Act of +Parliament having been obtained, though not without great +struggle, in the years 1720 and 1721, for prohibiting the use and +wearing of calicoes, the stuff trade revived incredibly; and as I +passed this part of the country in the year 1723, the +manufacturers assured me that there was not, in all the eastern +and middle part of Norfolk, any hand unemployed, if they would +work; and that the very children, after four or five years of +age, could every one earn their own bread. But I return to +speak of the villages and towns in the rest of the county; I +shall come to the city of Norwich by itself.</p> +<p>This throng of villages continues through all the east part of +the country, which is of the greatest extent, and where the +manufacture is chiefly carried on. If any part of it be +waste and thin of inhabitants, it is the west part, drawing a +line from about Brand, or Brandon, south, to Walsinghan, +north. This part of the country indeed is full of open +plains, and somewhat sandy and barren, and feeds great flocks of +good sheep; but put it all together, the county of Norfolk has +the most people in the least tract of land of any county in +England, except about London, and Exon, and the West Riding of +Yorkshire, as above.</p> +<p>Add to this, that there is no single county in England, except +as above, that can boast of three towns so populous, so rich, and +so famous for trade and navigation, as in this county. By +these three towns, I mean the city of Norwich, the towns of +Yarmouth and Lynn. Besides that, it has several other +seaports of very good trade, as Wisbech, Wells, Burnham, Clye, +etc.</p> +<p>Norwich is the capital of all the county, and the centre of +all the trade and manufactures which I have just mentioned; an +ancient, large, rich, and populous city. If a stranger was +only to ride through or view the city of Norwich for a day, he +would have much more reason to think there was a town without +inhabitants, than there is really to say so of Ipswich; but on +the contrary if he was to view the city, either on a Sabbath-day, +or on any public occasion, he would wonder where all the people +could dwell, the multitude is so great. But the case is +this: the inhabitants being all busy at their manufactures, dwell +in their garrets at their looms, and in their combing shops (so +they call them), twisting-mills, and other work-houses, almost +all the works they are employed in being done within doors. +There are in this city thirty-two parishes besides the cathedral, +and a great many meeting-houses of Dissenters of all +denominations. The public edifices are chiefly the castle, +ancient and decayed, and now for many years past made use of for +a gaol. The Duke of Norfolk’s house was formerly kept +well, and the gardens preserved for the pleasure and diversion of +the citizens, but since feeling too sensibly the sinking +circumstances of that once glorious family, who were the first +peers and hereditary earl-marshals of England.</p> +<p>The walls of this city are reckoned three miles in +circumference, taking in more ground than the City of London, but +much of that ground lying open in pasture-fields and gardens; nor +does it seem to be, like some ancient places, a decayed, +declining town, and that the walls mark out its ancient +dimensions; for we do not see room to suppose that it was ever +larger or more populous than it is now. But the walls seem +to be placed as if they expected that the city would in time +increase sufficiently to fill them up with buildings.</p> +<p>The cathedral of this city is a fine fabric, and the spire +steeple very high and beautiful. It is not ancient, the +bishop’s see having been first at Thetford, from whence it +was not translated hither till the twelfth century. Yet the +church has so many antiquities in it, that our late great scholar +and physician, Sir Thomas Brown, thought it worth his while to +write a whole book to collect the monuments and inscriptions in +this church, to which I refer the reader.</p> +<p>The River Yare runs through this city, and is navigable thus +far without the help of any art (that is to say, without locks or +stops), and being increased by other waters, passes afterwards +through a long tract of the richest meadows, and the largest, +take them all together, that are anywhere in England, lying for +thirty miles in length, from this city to Yarmouth, including the +return of the said meadows on the bank of the Waveney south, and +on the River Thyrn north.</p> +<p>Here is one thing indeed strange in itself, and more so, in +that history seems to be quite ignorant of the occasion of +it. The River Waveney is a considerable river, and of a +deep and full channel, navigable for large barges as high as +Beccles; it runs for a course of about fifty miles, between the +two counties of Suffolk and Norfolk, as a boundary to both; and +pushing on, though with a gentle stream, towards the sea, no one +would doubt, but, that when they see the river growing broader +and deeper, and going directly towards the sea, even to the edge +of the beach—that is to say, within a mile of the main +ocean—no stranger, I say, but would expect to see its +entrance into the sea at that place, and a noble harbour for +ships at the mouth of it; when on a sudden, the land rising high +by the seaside, crosses the head of the river, like a dam, checks +the whole course of it, and it returns, bending its course west, +for two miles, or thereabouts; and then turning north, through +another long course of meadows (joining to those just now +mentioned) seeks out the River Yare, that it may join its water +with hers, and find their way to the sea together.</p> +<p>Some of our historians tell a long, fabulous story of this +river being once open, and a famous harbour for ships belonging +to a town of Lowestoft adjoining; but that the town of Yarmouth +envying the prosperity of the said town of Lowestoft, made war +upon them; and that after many bloody battles, as well by sea as +by land, they came at last to a decisive action at sea with their +respective fleets, and the victory fell to the Yarmouth men, the +Lowestoft fleet being overthrown and utterly destroyed; and that +upon this victory, the Yarmouth men either actually did stop up +the mouth of the said river, or obliged the vanquished Lowestoft +men to do it themselves, and bound them never to attempt to open +it again.</p> +<p>I believe my share of this story, and I recommend no more of +it to the reader; adding, that I see no authority for the +relation, neither do the relators agree either in the time of it, +or in the particulars of the fact; that is to say, in whose +reign, or under what government all this happened; in what year, +and the like; so I satisfy myself with transcribing the matter of +fact, and then leave it as I find it.</p> +<p>In this vast tract of meadows are fed a prodigious number of +black cattle which are said to be fed up for the fattest beef, +though not the largest in England; and the quantity is so great, +as that they not only supply the city of Norwich, the town of +Yarmouth, and county adjacent, but send great quantities of them +weekly in all the winter season to London.</p> +<p>And this in particular is worthy remark, that the gross of all +the Scots cattle which come yearly into England are brought +hither, being brought to a small village lying north of the city +of Norwich, called St. Faith’s, where the Norfolk graziers +go and buy them.</p> +<p>These Scots runts, so they call them, coming out of the cold +and barren mountains of the Highlands in Scotland, feed so +eagerly on the rich pasture in these marshes, that they thrive in +an unusual manner, and grow monstrously fat; and the beef is so +delicious for taste, that the inhabitants prefer them to the +English cattle, which are much larger and fairer to look at; and +they may very well do so. Some have told me, and I believe +with good judgment, that there are above forty thousand of these +Scots cattle fed in this county every year, and most of them in +the said marshes between Norwich, Beccles, and Yarmouth.</p> +<p>Yarmouth is an ancient town, much older than Norwich; and at +present, though not standing on so much ground, yet better built; +much more complete; for number of inhabitants, not much inferior; +and for wealth, trade, and advantage of its situation, infinitely +superior to Norwich.</p> +<p>It is placed on a peninsula between the River Yare and the +sea; the two last lying parallel to one another, and the town in +the middle. The river lies on the west side of the town, +and being grown very large and deep, by a conflux of all the +rivers on this side the county, forms the haven; and the town +facing to the west also, and open to the river, makes the finest +quay in England, if not in Europe, not inferior even to that of +Marseilles itself.</p> +<p>The ships ride here so close, and, as it were, keeping up one +another, with their headfasts on shore, that for half a mile +together they go across the stream with their bowsprits over the +land, their bows, or heads touching the very wharf; so that one +may walk from ship to ship as on a floating bridge, all along by +the shore-side. The quay reaching from the drawbridge +almost to the south gate, is so spacious and wide, that in some +places it is near one hundred yards from the houses to the +wharf. In this pleasant and agreeable range of houses are +some very magnificent buildings, and among the rest, the Custom +House and Town Hall, and some merchant’s houses, which look +like little palaces rather than the dwelling-houses of private +men.</p> +<p>The greatest defect of this beautiful town seems to be that, +though it is very rich and increasing in wealth and trade, and +consequently in people, there is not room to enlarge the town by +building, which would be certainly done much more than it is, but +that the river on the land side prescribes them, except at the +north end without the gate; and even there the land is not very +agreeable. But had they had a larger space within the gates +there would before now have been many spacious streets of noble +fine buildings erected, as we see is done in some other thriving +towns in England, as at Liverpool, Manchester, Bristol, Frome, +etc.</p> +<p>The quay and the harbour of this town during the fishing fair, +as they call it, which is every Michaelmas, one sees the land +covered with people, and the river with barques and boats, busy +day and night landing and carrying of the herrings, which they +catch here in such prodigious quantities, that it is +incredible. I happened to be there during their fishing +fair, when I told in one tide 110 barques and fishing vessels +coming up the river all laden with herrings, and all taken the +night before; and this was besides what was brought on shore on +the Dean (that is the seaside of the town) by open boats, which +they call cobles, and which often bring in two or three last of +fish at a time. The barques often bring in ten last a +piece.</p> +<p>This fishing fair begins on Michaelmas Day, and lasts all the +month of October, by which time the herrings draw off to sea, +shoot their spawn, and are no more fit for the merchant’s +business—at least, not those that are taken +thereabouts.</p> +<p>The quantity of herrings that are caught in this season are +diversely accounted for. Some have said that the towns of +Yarmouth and Lowestoft only have taken 40,000 last in a +season. I will not venture to confirm that report; but this +I have heard the merchants themselves say, viz., that they have +cured—that is to say, hanged and dried in the +smoke—40,000 barrels of merchantable red herrings in one +season, which is in itself (though far short of the other) yet a +very considerable article; and it is to be added that this is +besides all the herrings consumed in the country towns of both +those populous counties for thirty miles from the sea, whither +very great quantities are carried every tide during the whole +season.</p> +<p>But this is only one branch of the great trade carried on in +this town. Another part of this commerce is in the +exporting these herrings after they are cured; and for this their +merchants have a great trade to Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, +and Venice; as also to Spain and Portugal, also exporting with +their herring very great quantities of worsted stuffs, and stuffs +made of silk and worsted, camblets, etc., the manufactures of the +neighbouring city of Norwich and of the places adjacent.</p> +<p>Besides this, they carry on a very considerable trade with +Holland, whose opposite neighbours they are; and a vast quantity +of woollen manufactures they export to the Dutch every +year. Also they have a fishing trade to the North Seas for +white fish, which from the place are called the North Sea +cod.</p> +<p>They have also a considerable trade to Norway and to the +Baltic, from whence they bring back deals and fir timber, oaken +plank, balks, spars, oars, pitch, tar, hemp, flax, spruce canvas, +and sail-cloth, with all manner of naval stores, which they +generally have a consumption for in their own port, where they +build a very great number of ships every year, besides refitting +and repairing the old.</p> +<p>Add to this the coal trade between Newcastle and the river of +Thames, in which they are so improved of late years that they +have now a greater share of it than any other town in England, +and have quite worked the Ipswich men out of it who had formerly +the chief share of the colliery in their hands.</p> +<p>For the carrying on all these trades they must have a very +great number of ships, either of their own or employed by them: +and it may in some measure be judged of by this that in the year +1697, I had an account from the town register that there was then +1,123 sail of ships using the sea and belonged to the town, +besides such ships as the merchants of Yarmouth might be +concerned in, and be part owners of, belonging to any other +ports.</p> +<p>To all this I must add, without compliment to the town or to +the people, that the merchants, and even the generality of +traders of Yarmouth, have a very good reputation in trade as well +abroad as at home for men of fair and honourable dealing, +punctual and just in their performing their engagements and in +discharging commissions; and their seamen, as well masters as +mariners, are justly esteemed among the ablest and most expert +navigators in England.</p> +<p>This town, however populous and large, was ever contained in +one parish, and had but one church; but within these two years +they have built another very fine church near the south end of +the town. The old church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and +was built by that famous Bishop of Norwich, William Herbert, who +flourished in the reign of William II., and Henry I., William of +Malmesbury, calls him <i>Vir Pecuniosus</i>; he might have called +him <i>Vir Pecuniosissimus</i>, considering the times he lived +in, and the works of charity and munificence which he has left as +witnesses of his immense riches; for he built the Cathedral +Church, the Priory for sixty monks, the Bishop’s Palace, +and the parish church of St. Leonard, all in Norwich; this great +church at Yarmouth, the Church of St. Margaret at Lynn, and of +St. Mary at Elmham. He removed the episcopal see from +Thetford to Norwich, and instituted the Cluniack Monks at +Thetford, and gave them or built them a house. This old +church is very large, and has a high spire, which is a useful +sea-mark.</p> +<p>Here is one of the finest market-places and the best served +with provisions in England, London excepted; and the inhabitants +are so multiplied in a few years that they seem to want room in +their town rather than people to fill it, as I have observed +above.</p> +<p>The streets are all exactly straight from north to south, with +lanes or alleys, which they call rows, crossing them in straight +lines also from east to west, so that it is the most regular +built town in England, and seems to have been built all at once; +or that the dimensions of the houses and extent of the streets +were laid out by consent.</p> +<p>They have particular privileges in this town and a +jurisdiction by which they can try, condemn, and execute in +especial cases without waiting for a warrant from above; and this +they exerted once very smartly in executing a captain of one of +the king’s ships of war in the reign of King Charles II. +for a murder committed in the street, the circumstance of which +did indeed call for justice; but some thought they would not have +ventured to exert their powers as they did. However, I +never heard that the Government resented it or blamed them for +it.</p> +<p>It is also a very well-governed town, and I have nowhere in +England observed the Sabbath day so exactly kept, or the breach +so continually punished, as in this place, which I name to their +honour.</p> +<p>Among all these regularities it is no wonder if we do not find +abundance of revelling, or that there is little encouragement to +assemblies, plays, and gaming meetings at Yarmouth as in some +other places; and yet I do not see that the ladies here come +behind any of the neighbouring counties, either in beauty, +breeding, or behaviour; to which may be added too, not at all to +their disadvantage, that they generally go beyond them in +fortunes.</p> +<p>From Yarmouth I resolved to pursue my first design, viz., to +view the seaside on this coast, which is particularly famous for +being one of the most dangerous and most fatal to the sailors in +all England—I may say in all Britain—and the more so +because of the great number of ships which are continually going +and coming this way in their passage between London and all the +northern coasts of Great Britain. Matters of antiquity are +not my inquiry, but principally observations on the present state +of things, and, if possible, to give such accounts of things +worthy of recording as have never been observed before; and this +leads me the more directly to mention the commerce and the +navigation when I come to towns upon the coast as what few +writers have yet meddled with.</p> +<p>The reason of the dangers of this particular coast are found +in the situation of the county and in the course of ships sailing +this way, which I shall describe as well as I can thus:—The +shore from the mouth of the River of Thames to Yarmouth Roads +lies in a straight line from SSE. <i>to</i> NNW., the land being +on the W. or larboard side.</p> +<p>From Wintertonness, which is the utmost northerly point of +land in the county of Norfolk, and about four miles beyond +Yarmouth, the shore falls off for nearly sixty miles to the west, +as far as Lynn and Boston, till the shore of Lincolnshire tends +north again for about sixty miles more as far as the Humber, +whence the coast of Yorkshire, or Holderness, which is the east +riding, shoots out again into the sea, to the Spurn and to +Flamborough Head, as far east, almost, as the shore of Norfolk +had given back at Winterton, making a very deep gulf or bay +between those two points of Winterton and the Spurn Head; so that +the ships going north are obliged to stretch away to sea from +Wintertonness, and leaving the sight of land in that deep bay +which I have mentioned, that reaches to Lynn and the shore of +Lincolnshire, they go, I say, N. or still NNW. to meet the shore +of Holderness, which I said runs out into the sea again at the +Spurn; and the first land they make or desire to make, is called +as above, Flamborough Head, so that Wintertonness and Flamborough +Head are the two extremes of this course, there is, as I said, +the Spurn Head indeed between; but as it lies too far in towards +the Humber, they keep out to the north to avoid coming near +it.</p> +<p>In like manner the ships which come from the north, leave the +shore at Flamborough Head, and stretch away SSE. for Yarmouth +Roads; and they first land they make is Wintertonness (as +above). Now, the danger of the place is this: if the ships +coming from the north are taken with a hard gale of wind from the +SE., or from any point between NE. and SE., so that they cannot, +as the seamen call it, weather Wintertonness, they are thereby +kept within that deep bay; and if the wind blows hard, are often +in danger of running on shore upon the rocks about Cromer, on the +north coast of Norfolk, or stranding upon the flat shore between +Cromer and Wells; all the relief they have, is good ground tackle +to ride it out, which is very hard to do there, the sea coming +very high upon them; or if they cannot ride it out then, to run +into the bottom of the great bay I mentioned, to Lynn or Boston, +which is a very difficult and desperate push: so that sometimes +in this distress whole fleets have been lost here altogether.</p> +<p>The like is the danger to ships going northward, if after +passing by Winterton they are taken short with a north-east wind, +and cannot put back into the Roads, which very often happens, +then they are driven upon the same coast, and embayed just as the +latter. The danger on the north part of this bay is not the +same, because if ships going or coming should be taken short on +this side Flamborough, there is the river Humber open to them, +and several good roads to have recourse to, as Burlington Bay, +Grimsby Road, and the Spurn Head, and others, where they ride +under shelter.</p> +<p>The dangers of this place being thus considered, it is no +wonder, that upon the shore beyond Yarmouth there are no less +than four lighthouses kept flaming every night, besides the +lights at Castor, north of the town, and at Goulston S., all of +which are to direct the sailors to keep a good offing in case of +bad weather, and to prevent their running into Cromer Bay, which +the seamen call the devil’s throat.</p> +<p>As I went by land from Yarmouth northward, along the shore +towards Cromer aforesaid, and was not then fully master of the +reason of these things, I was surprised to see, in all the way +from Winterton, that the farmers and country people had scarce a +barn, or a shed, or a stable, nay, not the pales of their yards +and gardens, not a hogstye, not a necessary house, but what was +built of old planks, beams, wales, and timbers, etc., the wrecks +of ships, and ruins of mariners’ and merchants’ +fortunes; and in some places were whole yards filled and piled up +very high with the same stuff laid up, as I supposed to sell for +the like building purposes, as there should he occasion.</p> +<p>About the year 1692 (I think it was that year) there was a +melancholy example of what I have said of this place: a fleet of +200 sail of light colliers (so they call the ships bound +northward empty to fetch coals from Newcastle to London) went out +of Yarmouth Roads with a fair wind, to pursue their voyage, and +were taken short with a storm of wind at NE. after they were past +Wintertonness, a few leagues; some of them, whose masters were a +little more wary than the rest, or perhaps, who made a better +judgment of things, or who were not so far out as the rest, +tacked, and put back in time, and got safe into the roads; but +the rest pushing on in hopes to keep out to sea, and weather it, +were by the violence of the storm driven back, when they were too +far embayed to weather Wintertonness as above, and so were forced +to run west, everyone shifting for themselves as well as they +could; some run away for Lynn Deeps, but few of them (the night +being so dark) could find their way in there; some, but very few, +rode it out at a distance; the rest, being above 140 sail, were +all driven on shore and dashed to pieces, and very few of the +people on board were saved: at the very same unhappy juncture, a +fleet of laden ships were coming from the north, and being just +crossing the same bay, were forcibly driven into it, not able to +weather the Ness, and so were involved in the same ruin as the +light fleet was; also some coasting vessels laden with corn from +Lynn and Wells, and bound for Holland, were with the same unhappy +luck just come out to begin their voyage, and some of them lay at +anchor; these also met with the same misfortune, so that, in the +whole, above 200 sail of ships, and above a thousand people, +perished in the disaster of that one miserable night, very few +escaping.</p> +<p>Cromer is a market town close to the shore of this dangerous +coast. I know nothing it is famous for (besides it being +thus the terror of the sailors) except good lobsters, which are +taken on that coast in great numbers and carried to Norwich, and +in such quantities sometimes too as to be conveyed by sea to +London.</p> +<p>Farther within the land, and between this place and Norwich, +are several good market towns, and innumerable villages, all +diligently applying to the woollen manufacture, and the country +is exceedingly fruitful and fertile, as well in corn as in +pastures; particularly, which was very pleasant to see, the +pheasants were in such great plenty as to be seen in the stubbles +like cocks and hens—a testimony though, by the way, that +the county had more tradesmen than gentlemen in it; indeed, this +part is so entirely given up to industry, that what with the +seafaring men on the one side, and the manufactures on the other, +we saw no idle hands here, but every man busy on the main affair +of life, that is to say, getting money; some of the principal of +these towns are:—Alsham, North Walsham, South Walsham, +Worsted, Caston, Reepham, Holt, Saxthorp, St. Faith’s, +Blikling, and many others. Near the last, Sir John Hobart, +of an ancient family in this county, has a noble seat, but old +built. This is that St. Faith’s, where the drovers +bring their black cattle to sell to the Norfolk graziers, as is +observed above.</p> +<p>From Cromer we ride on the strand or open shore to Weyburn +Hope, the shore so flat that in some places the tide ebbs out +near two miles. From Weyburn west lies Clye, where there +are large salt-works and very good salt made, which is sold all +over the county, and sometimes sent to Holland and to the +Baltic. From Clye we go to Masham and to Wells, all towns +on the coast, in each whereof there is a very considerable trade +carried on with Holland for corn, which that part of the county +is very full of. I say nothing of the great trade driven +here from Holland, back again to England, because I take it to be +a trade carried on with much less honesty than advantage, +especially while the clandestine trade, or the art of smuggling +was so much in practice: what it is now, is not to my present +purpose.</p> +<p>Near this town lie The Seven Burnhams, as they are called, +that is to say, seven small towns, all called by the same name, +and each employed in the same trade of carrying corn to Holland, +and bringing back,—etc.</p> +<p>From hence we turn to the south-west to Castle Rising, an old +decayed borough town, with perhaps not ten families in it, which +yet (to the scandal of our prescription right) sends two members +to the British Parliament, being as many as the City of Norwich +itself or any town in the kingdom, London excepted, can do.</p> +<p>On our left we see Walsingham, an ancient town, famous for the +old ruins of a monastery of note there, and the Shrine of our +Lady, as noted as that of St. Thomas-à-Becket at +Canterbury, and for little else.</p> +<p>Near this place are the seats of the two allied families of +the Lord Viscount Townsend and Robert Walpole, Esq.; the latter +at this time one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury and +Minister of State, and the former one of the principal +Secretaries of State to King George, of which again.</p> +<p>From hence we went to Lynn, another rich and populous thriving +port-town. It stands on more ground than the town of +Yarmouth, and has, I think, parishes, yet I cannot allow that it +has more people than Yarmouth, if so many. It is a +beautiful, well built, and well situated town, at the mouth of +the River Ouse, and has this particular attending it, which gives +it a vast advantage in trade; namely, that there is the greatest +extent of inland navigation here of any port in England, London +excepted. The reason whereof is this, that there are more +navigable rivers empty themselves here into the sea, including +the washes, which are branches of the same port, than at any one +mouth of waters in England, except the Thames and the +Humber. By these navigable rivers, the merchants of Lynn +supply about six counties wholly, and three counties in part, +with their goods, especially wine and coals, viz., by the little +Ouse, they send their goods to Brandon and Thetford, by the Lake +to Mildenhall, Barton Mills, and St. Edmundsbury; by the River +Grant to Cambridge, by the great Ouse itself to Ely, to St. Ives, +to St. Neots, to Barford Bridge, and to Bedford; by the River +Nyne to Peterborough; by the drains and washes to Wisbeach, to +Spalding, Market Deeping, and Stamford; besides the several +counties, into which these goods are carried by land-carriage, +from the places, where the navigation of those rivers end; which +has given rise to this observation on the town of Lynn, that they +bring in more coals than any sea-port between London and +Newcastle; and import more wines than any port in England, except +London and Bristol; their trade to Norway and to the Baltic Sea +is also great in proportion, and of late years they have extended +their trade farther to the southward.</p> +<p>Here are more gentry, and consequently is more gaiety in this +town than in Yarmouth, or even in Norwich itself—the place +abounding in very good company.</p> +<p>The situation of this town renders it capable of being made +very strong, and in the late wars it was so; a line of +fortification being drawn round it at a distance from the walls; +the ruins, or rather remains of which works appear very fair to +this day; nor would it be a hard matter to restore the bastions, +with the ravelins, and counterscarp, upon any sudden emergency, +to a good state of defence: and that in a little time, a +sufficient number of workmen being employed, especially because +they are able to fill all their ditches with water from the sea, +in such a manner as that it cannot be drawn off.</p> +<p>There is in the market-place of this town a very fine statue +of King William on horseback, erected at the charge of the +town. The Ouse is mighty large and deep, close to the very +town itself, and ships of good burthen may come up to the quay; +but there is no bridge, the stream being too strong and the +bottom moorish and unsound; nor, for the same reason, is the +anchorage computed the best in the world; but there are good +roads farther down.</p> +<p>They pass over here in boats into the fen country, and over +the famous washes into Lincolnshire, but the passage is very +dangerous and uneasy, and where passengers often miscarry and are +lost; but then it is usually on their venturing at improper +times, and without the guides, which if they would be persuaded +not to do, they would very rarely fail of going or coming +safe.</p> +<p>From Lynn I bent my course to Downham, where is an ugly wooden +bridge over the Ouse; from whence we passed the fen country to +Wisbeach, but saw nothing that way to tempt our curiosity but +deep roads, innumerable drains and dykes of water, all navigable, +and a rich soil, the land bearing a vast quantity of good hemp, +but a base unwholesome air; so we came back to Ely, whose +cathedral, standing in a level flat country, is seen far and +wide, and of which town, when the minster, so they call it, is +described, everything remarkable is said that there is room to +say. And of the minster, this is the most remarkable thing +that I could hear it, namely, that some of it is so ancient, +totters so much with every gust of wind, looks so like a decay, +and seems so near it, that whenever it does fall, all that it is +likely will be thought strange in it will be that it did not fall +a hundred years sooner.</p> +<p>From hence we came over the Ouse, and in a few miles to +Newmarket. In our way, near Snaybell, we saw a noble seat +of the late Admiral Russell, now Earl of Orford, a name made +famous by the glorious victory obtained under his command over +the French fleet and the burning their ships at La Hogue—a +victory equal in glory to, and infinitely more glorious to the +English nation in particular, than that at Blenheim, and, above +all, more to the particular advantage of the confederacy, because +it so broke the heart of the naval power of France that they have +not fully recovered it to this day. But of this victory it +must be said it was owing to the haughty, rash, and insolent +orders given by the King of France to his admiral, viz., to fight +the confederate fleet wherever he found them, without leaving +room for him to use due caution if he found them too strong, +which pride of France was doubtless a fate upon them, and gave a +cheap victory to the confederates, the French coming down rashly, +and with the most impolitic bravery, with about five-and-forty +sail to attack between seventy and eighty sail, by which means +they met their ruin. Whereas, had their own fleet been +joined, it might have cost more blood to have mastered them if it +had been done at all.</p> +<p>The situation of this house is low, and on the edge of the fen +country, but the building is very fine, the avenues noble, and +the gardens perfectly finished. The apartments also are +rich, and I see nothing wanting but a family and heirs to sustain +the glory and inheritance of the illustrious ancestor who raised +it—<i>sed caret pedibus</i>; these are wanting.</p> +<p>Being come to Newmarket in the month of October, I had the +opportunity to see the horse races and a great concourse of the +nobility and gentry, as well from London as from all parts of +England, but they were all so intent, so eager, so busy upon the +sharping part of the sport—their wagers and bets—that +to me they seemed just as so many horse-coursers in Smithfield, +descending (the greatest of them) from their high dignity and +quality to picking one another’s pockets, and biting one +another as much as possible, and that with such eagerness as that +it might be said they acted without respect to faith, honour, or +good manners.</p> +<p>There was Mr. Frampton the oldest, and, as some say, the +cunningest jockey in England; one day he lost one thousand +guineas, the next he won two thousand; and so alternately he made +as light of throwing away five hundred or one thousand pounds at +a time as other men do of their pocket-money, and as perfectly +calm, cheerful, and unconcerned when he had lost one thousand +pounds as when he had won it. On the other side there was +Sir R Fagg, of Sussex, of whom fame says he has the most in him +and the least to show for it (relating to jockeyship) of any man +there, yet he often carried the prize. His horses, they +said, were all cheats, how honest soever their master was, for he +scarce ever produced a horse but he looked like what he was not, +and was what nobody could expect him to be. If he was as +light as the wind, and could fly like a meteor, he was sure to +look as clumsy, and as dirty, and as much like a cart-horse as +all the cunning of his master and the grooms could make him, and +just in this manner he beat some of the greatest gamesters in the +field.</p> +<p>I was so sick of the jockeying part that I left the crowd +about the posts and pleased myself with observing the horses: how +the creatures yielded to all the arts and managements of their +masters; how they took their airings in sport, and played with +the daily heats which they ran over the course before the grand +day. But how, as knowing the difference equally with their +riders, would they exert their utmost strength at the time of the +race itself! And that to such an extremity that one or two +of them died in the stable when they came to be rubbed after the +first heat.</p> +<p>Here I fancied myself in the Circus Maximus at Rome seeing the +ancient games and the racings of the chariots and horsemen, and +in this warmth of my imagination I pleased and diverted myself +more and in a more noble manner than I could possibly do in the +crowds of gentlemen at the weighing and starting-posts and at +their coming in, or at their meetings at the coffee-houses and +gaming-tables after the races were over, where there was little +or nothing to be seen but what was the subject of just reproach +to them and reproof from every wise man that looked upon +them.</p> +<p>N.B.—Pray take it with you, as you go, you see no ladies +at Newmarket, except a few of the neighbouring gentlemen’s +families, who come in their coaches on any particular day to see +a race, and so go home again directly.</p> +<p>As I was pleasing myself with what was to be seen here, I went +in the intervals of the sport to see the fine seats of the +gentlemen in the neighbouring county, for this part of Suffolk, +being an open champaign country and a healthy air, is formed for +pleasure and all kinds of country diversion, Nature, as it were, +inviting the gentlemen to visit her where she was fully prepared +to receive them, in conformity to which kind summons they came, +for the country is, as it were, covered with fine palaces of the +nobility and pleasant seats of the gentlemen.</p> +<p>The Earl of Orford’s house I have mentioned already; the +next is Euston Hall, the seat of the Duke of Grafton. It +lies in the open country towards the side of Norfolk, not far +from Thetford, a place capable of all that is pleasant and +delightful in Nature, and improved by art to every extreme that +Nature is able to produce.</p> +<p>From thence I went to Rushbrook, formerly the seat of the +noble family of Jermyns, lately Lord Dover, and now of the house +of Davers. Here Nature, for the time I was there, drooped +and veiled all the beauties of which she once boasted, the family +being in tears and the house shut up, Sir Robert Davers, the head +thereof, and knight of the shire for the county of Suffolk, and +who had married the eldest daughter of the late Lord Dover, being +just dead, and the corpse lying there in its funeral form of +ceremony, not yet buried. Yet all looked lovely in their +sorrow, and a numerous issue promising and grown up intimated +that the family of Davers would still flourish, and that the +beauties of Rushbrook, the mansion of the family, were not formed +with so much art in vain or to die with the present +possessor.</p> +<p>After this we saw Brently, the seat of the Earl of Dysert, and +the ancient palace of my Lord Cornwallis, with several others of +exquisite situation, and adorned with the beauties both of art +and Nature, so that I think any traveller from abroad, who would +desire to see how the English gentry live, and what pleasures +they enjoy, should come into Suffolk and Cambridgeshire, and take +but a light circuit among the country seats of the gentlemen on +this side only, and they would be soon convinced that not France, +no, not Italy itself, can outdo them in proportion to the climate +they lived in.</p> +<p>I had still the county of Cambridge to visit to complete this +tour of the eastern part of England, and of that I come now to +speak.</p> +<p>We enter Cambridgeshire out of Suffolk, with all the advantage +in the world; the county beginning upon those pleasant and +agreeable plains called Newmarket Heath, where passing the +Devil’s Ditch, which has nothing worth notice but its name, +and that but fabulous too, from the hills called Gogmagog, we see +a rich and pleasant vale westward, covered with corn-fields, +gentlemen’s seats, villages, and at a distance, to crown +all the rest, that ancient and truly famous town and university +of Cambridge, capital of the county, and receiving its name from, +if not, as some say, giving name to it; for if it be true that +the town takes its name of Cambridge from its bridge over the +river Cam, then certainly the shire or county, upon the division +of England into counties, had its name from the town, and +Cambridgeshire signifies no more or less than the county of which +Cambridge is the capital town.</p> +<p>As my business is not to lay out the geographical situation of +places, I say nothing of the buttings and boundings of this +county. It lies on the edge of the great level, called by +the people here the Fen Country; and great part, if not all, the +Isle of Ely lies in this county and Norfolk. The rest of +Cambridgeshire is almost wholly a corn country, and of that corn +five parts in six of all they sow is barley, which is generally +sold to Ware and Royston, and other great malting towns in +Hertfordshire, and is the fund from whence that vast quantity of +malt, called Hertfordshire malt, is made, which is esteemed the +best in England. As Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk are taken +up in manufactures, and famed for industry, this county has no +manufacture at all; nor are the poor, except the husbandmen, +famed for anything so much as idleness and sloth, to their +scandal be it spoken. What the reason of it is I know +not.</p> +<p>It is scarce possible to talk of anything in Cambridgeshire +but Cambridge itself; whether it be that the county has so little +worth speaking of in it, or, that the town has so much, that I +leave to others; however, as I am making modern observations, not +writing history, I shall look into the county, as well as into +the colleges, for what I have to say.</p> +<p>As I said, I first had a view of Cambridge from Gogmagog +hills; I am to add that there appears on the mountain that goes +by this name, an ancient camp or fortification, that lies on the +top of the hill, with a double, or rather treble, rampart and +ditch, which most of our writers say was neither Roman nor Saxon, +but British. I am to add that King James II. caused a +spacious stable to be built in the area of this camp for his +running homes, and made old Mr. Frampton, whom I mentioned above, +master or inspector of them. The stables remain still +there, though they are not often made use of. As we +descended westward we saw the Fen country on our right, almost +all covered with water like a sea, the Michaelmas rains having +been very great that year, they had sent down great floods of +water from the upland countries, and those fens being, as may be +very properly said, the sink of no less than thirteen +counties—that is to say, that all the water, or most part +of the water, of thirteen counties falls into them; they are +often thus overflowed. The rivers which thus empty +themselves into these fens, and which thus carry off the water, +are the Cam or Grant, the Great Ouse and Little Ouse, the Nene, +the Welland, and the river which runs from Bury to Milden +Hall. The counties which these rivers drain, as above, are +as follows:—</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Lincoln,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Warwick,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Norfolk,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>* Cambridge,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Oxford,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Suffolk,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>* Huntingdon,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Leicester,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Essex,</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>* Bedford,</p> +</td> +<td><p>* Northampton</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Buckingham,</p> +</td> +<td><p>* Rutland.</p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p style="text-align: center">Those marked with (*) empty all +their waters this way, the rest but in part.</p> +<p>In a word, all the water of the middle part of England which +does not run into the Thames or the Trent, comes down into these +fens.</p> +<p>In these fens are abundance of those admirable pieces of art +called decoys that is to say, places so adapted for the harbour +and shelter of wild fowl, and then furnished with a breed of +those they call decoy ducks, who are taught to allure and entice +their kind to the places they belong to, that it is incredible +what quantities of wild fowl of all sorts, duck, mallard, teal, +widgeon, &c., they take in those decoys every week during the +season; it may, indeed, be guessed at a little by this, that +there is a decoy not far from Ely which pays to the landlord, Sir +Thomas Hare, £500 a year rent, besides the charge of +maintaining a great number of servants for the management; and +from which decoy alone, they assured me at St. Ives (a town on +the Ouse, where the fowl they took was always brought to be sent +to London) that they generally sent up three thousand couple a +week.</p> +<p>There are more of these about Peterborough, who send the fowl +up twice a week in waggon-loads at a time, whose waggons before +the late Act of Parliament to regulate carriers I have seen drawn +by ten and twelve horses a-piece, they were laden so heavy.</p> +<p>As these fens appear covered with water, so I observed, too, +that they generally at this latter part of the year appear also +covered with fogs, so that when the downs and higher grounds of +the adjacent country were gilded with the beams of the sun, the +Isle of Ely looked as if wrapped up in blankets, and nothing to +be seen but now and then the lantern or cupola of Ely +Minster.</p> +<p>One could hardly see this from the hills and not pity the many +thousands of families that were bound to or confined in those +fogs, and had no other breath to draw than what must be mixed +with those vapours, and that steam which so universally +overspreads the country. But notwithstanding this, the +people, especially those that are used to it, live unconcerned, +and as healthy as other folks, except now and then an ague, which +they make light of, and there are great numbers of very ancient +people among them.</p> +<p>I now draw near to Cambridge, to which I fancy I look as if I +was afraid to come, having made so many circumlocutions +beforehand; but I must yet make another digression before I enter +the town (for in my way, and as I came in from Newmarket, about +the beginning of September), I cannot omit, that I came +necessarily through Stourbridge Fair, which was then in its +height.</p> +<p>If it is a diversion worthy a book to treat of trifles, such +as the gaiety of Bury Fair, it cannot be very unpleasant, +especially to the trading part of the world, to say something of +this fair, which is not only the greatest in the whole nation, +but in the world; nor, if I may believe those who have seen the +mall, is the fair at Leipzig in Saxony, the mart at +Frankfort-on-the-Main, or the fairs at Nuremberg, or Augsburg, +any way to compare to this fair at Stourbridge.</p> +<p>It is kept in a large corn-field, near Casterton, extending +from the side of the river Cam, towards the road, for about half +a mile square.</p> +<p>If the husbandmen who rent the land, do not get their corn off +before a certain day in August, the fair-keepers may trample it +under foot and spoil it to build their booths, or tents, for all +the fair is kept in tents and booths. On the other hand, to +balance that severity, if the fair-keepers have not done their +business of the fair, and removed and cleared the field by +another certain day in September, the ploughmen may come in +again, with plough and cart, and overthrow all, and trample into +the dirt; and as for the filth, dung, straw, etc. necessarily +left by the fair-keepers, the quantity of which is very great, it +is the farmers’ fees, and makes them full amends for the +trampling, riding, and carting upon, and hardening the +ground.</p> +<p>It is impossible to describe all the parts and circumstances +of this fair exactly; the shops are placed in rows like streets, +whereof one is called Cheapside; and here, as in several other +streets, are all sorts of trades, who sell by retail, and who +come principally from London with their goods; scarce any trades +are omitted—goldsmiths, toyshops, brasiers, turners, +milliners, haberdashers, hatters, mercers, drapers, pewterers, +china-warehouses, and in a word all trades that can be named in +London; with coffee-houses, taverns, brandy-shops, and +eating-houses, innumerable, and all in tents, and booths, as +above.</p> +<p>This great street reaches from the road, which as I said goes +from Cambridge to Newmarket, turning short out of it to the right +towards the river, and holds in a line near half a mile quite +down to the river-side: in another street parallel with the road +are like rows of booths, but larger, and more intermingled with +wholesale dealers; and one side, passing out of this last street +to the left hand, is a formal great square, formed by the largest +booths, built in that form, and which they call the Duddery; +whence the name is derived, and what its signification is, I +could never yet learn, though I made all possible search into +it. The area of this square is about 80 to 100 yards, where +the dealers have room before every booth to take down, and open +their packs, and to bring in waggons to load and unload.</p> +<p>This place is separated, and peculiar to the wholesale dealers +in the woollen manufacture. Here the booths or tents are of +a vast extent, have different apartments, and the quantities of +goods they bring are so great, that the insides of them look like +another Blackwell Hall, being as vast warehouses piled up with +goods to the top. In this Duddery, as I have been informed, +there have been sold one hundred thousand pounds worth of woollen +manufactures in less than a week’s time, besides the +prodigious trade carried on here, by wholesale men, from London, +and all parts of England, who transact their business wholly in +their pocket-books, and meeting their chapmen from all parts, +make up their accounts, receive money chiefly in bills, and take +orders: These they say exceed by far the sales of goods actually +brought to the fair, and delivered in kind; it being frequent for +the London wholesale men to carry back orders from their dealers +for ten thousand pounds’ worth of goods a man, and some +much more. This especially respects those people, who deal +in heavy goods, as wholesale grocers, salters, brasiers, +iron-merchants, wine-merchants, and the like; but does not +exclude the dealers in woollen manufactures, and especially in +mercery goods of all sorts, the dealers in which generally manage +their business in this manner.</p> +<p>Here are clothiers from Halifax, Leeds, Wakefield and +Huddersfield in Yorkshire, and from Rochdale, Bury, etc., in +Lancashire, with vast quantities of Yorkshire cloths, kerseys, +pennistons, cottons, etc., with all sorts of Manchester ware, +fustiains, and things made of cotton wool; of which the quantity +is so great, that they told me there were near a thousand +horse-packs of such goods from that side of the country, and +these took up a side and half of the Duddery at least; also a +part of a street of booths were taken up with upholsterer’s +ware, such as tickings, sackings, kidderminster stuffs, blankets, +rugs, quilts, etc.</p> +<p>In the Duddery I saw one warehouse, or booth with six +apartments in it, all belonging to a dealer in Norwich stuffs +only, and who, they said, had there above twenty thousand pounds +value in those goods, and no other.</p> +<p>Western goods had their share here also, and several booths +were filled as full with serges, duroys, druggets, shalloons, +cantaloons, Devonshire kerseys, etc., from Exeter, Taunton, +Bristol, and other parts west, and some from London also.</p> +<p>But all this is still outdone at least in show, by two +articles, which are the peculiars of this fair, and do not begin +till the other part of the fair, that is to say for the woollen +manufacture begins to draw to a close. These are the wool +and the hops; as for the hops, there is scarce any price fixed +for hops in England, till they know how they sell at Stourbridge +fair; the quantity that appears in the fair is indeed prodigious, +and they, as it were, possess a large part of the field on which +the fair is kept to themselves; they are brought directly from +Chelmsford in Essex, from Canterbury and Maidstone in Kent, and +from Farnham in Surrey, besides what are brought from London, the +growth of those and other places.</p> +<p>Enquiring why this fair should be thus, of all other places in +England, the centre of that trade; and so great a quantity of so +bulky a commodity be carried thither so far; I was answered by +one thoroughly acquainted with that matter thus: the hops, said +he, for this part of England, grow principally in the two +counties of Surrey and Kent, with an exception only to the town +of Chelmsford in Essex, and there are very few planted anywhere +else.</p> +<p>There are indeed in the west of England some quantities +growing: as at Wilton, near Salisbury; at Hereford and +Broomsgrove, near Wales, and the like; but the quantity is +inconsiderable, and the places remote, so that none of them come +to London.</p> +<p>As to the north of England, they formerly used but few hops +there, their drink being chiefly pale smooth ale, which required +no hops, and consequently they planted no hops in all that part +of England, north of the Trent; nor did I ever see one acre of +hop-ground planted beyond Trent in my observation; but as for +some years past, they not only brew great quantities of beer in +the north, but also use hops in the brewing their ale much more +than they did before; so they all come south of Trent to buy +their hops; and here being quantities brought, it is great part +of their back carriage into Yorkshire, and Northamptonshire, +Derbyshire, Lancashire, and all these counties; nay, of late, +since the Union, even to Scotland itself; for I must not omit +here also to mention, that the river Grant, or Cam, which runs +close by the north-west side of the fair in its way from +Cambridge to Ely, is navigable, and that by this means, all heavy +goods are brought even to the fair-field, by water carriage from +London and other parts; first to the port of Lynn, and then in +barges up the Ouse, from the Ouse into the Cam, and so, as I say, +to the very edge of the fair.</p> +<p>In like manner great quantities of heavy goods, and the hops +among the rest, are sent from the fair to Lynn by water, and +shipped there for the Humber, to Hull, York, etc., and for +Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and by Newcastle, even to Scotland +itself. Now as there is still no planting of hops in the +north, though a great consumption, and the consumption increasing +daily, this, says my friend, is one reason why at Stourbridge +fair there is so great a demand for the hops. He added, +that besides this, there were very few hops, if any worth naming, +growing in all the counties even on this side Trent, which were +above forty miles from London; those counties depending on +Stourbridge fair for their supply, so the counties of Suffolk, +Norfolk, Cambridge, Huntingdon, Northampton, Lincoln, Leicester, +Rutland, and even to Stafford, Warwick, and Worcestershire, +bought most if not all of their hops at Stourbridge fair.</p> +<p>These are the reasons why so great a quantity of hops are seen +at this fair, as that it is incredible, considering, too, how +remote from this fair the growth of them is as above.</p> +<p>This is likewise a testimony of the prodigious resort of the +trading people of all parts of England to this fair; the quantity +of hops that have been sold at one of these fairs is diversely +reported, and some affirm it to be so great, that I dare not copy +after them; but without doubt it is a surprising account, +especially in a cheap year.</p> +<p>The next article brought thither is wool, and this of several +sorts, but principally fleece wool, out of Lincolnshire, where +the longest staple is found; the sheep of those countries being +of the largest breed.</p> +<p>The buyers of this wool are chiefly indeed the manufacturers +of Norfolk and Suffolk and Essex, and it is a prodigious quantity +they buy.</p> +<p>Here I saw what I have not observed in any other county of +England, namely, a pocket of wool. This seems to be first +called so in mockery, this pocket being so big, that it loads a +whole waggon, and reaches beyond the most extreme parts of it +hanging over both before and behind, and these ordinarily weigh a +ton or twenty-five hundredweight of wool, all in one bag.</p> +<p>The quantity of wool only, which has been sold at this place +at one fair, has been said to amount to fifty or sixty thousand +pounds in value, some say a great deal more.</p> +<p>By these articles a stranger may make some guess at the +immense trade carried on at this place; what prodigious +quantities of goods are bought and sold here, and what a +confluence of people are seen here from all parts of England.</p> +<p>I might go on here to speak of several other sorts of English +manufactures which are brought hither to be sold; as all sorts of +wrought-iron and brass-ware from Birmingham; edged tools, knives, +etc., from Sheffield; glass wares and stockings from Nottingham +and Leicester; and an infinite throng of other things of smaller +value every morning.</p> +<p>To attend this fair, and the prodigious conflux of people +which come to it, there are sometimes no less than fifty hackney +coaches which come from London, and ply night and morning to +carry the people to and from Cambridge; for there the gross of +the people lodge; nay, which is still more strange, there are +wherries brought from London on waggons to ply upon the little +river Cam, and to row people up and down from the town, and from +the fair as occasion presents.</p> +<p>It is not to be wondered at, if the town of Cambridge cannot +receive, or entertain the numbers of people that come to this +fair; not Cambridge only, but all the towns round are full; nay, +the very barns and stables are turned into inns, and made as fit +as they can to lodge the meaner sort of people: as for the people +in the fair, they all universally eat, drink, and sleep in their +booths and tents; and the said booths are so intermingled with +taverns, coffee-houses, drinking-houses, eating-houses, +cook-shops, etc., and all in tents too; and so many butchers and +higglers from all the neighbouring counties come into the fair +every morning with beef, mutton, fowls, butter, bread, cheese, +eggs, and such things, and go with them from tent to tent, from +door to door, that there is no want of any provisions of any +kind, either dressed or undressed.</p> +<p>In a word, the fair is like a well-fortified city, and there +is the least disorder and confusion I believe, that can be seen +anywhere with so great a concourse of people.</p> +<p>Towards the latter end of the fair, and when the great hurry +of wholesale business begins to be over, the gentry come in from +all parts of the county round; and though they come for their +diversion, yet it is not a little money they lay out, which +generally falls to the share of the retailers, such as toy-shops, +goldsmiths, braziers, ironmongers, turners, milliners, mercers, +etc., and some loose coins they reserve for the puppet shows, +drolls, rope-dancers, and such like, of which there is no want, +though not considerable like the rest. The last day of the +fair is the horse-fair, where the whole is closed with both horse +and foot races, to divert the meaner sort of people only, for +nothing considerable is offered of that kind. Thus ends the +whole fair, and in less than a week more, there is scarce any +sign left that there has been such a thing there, except by the +heaps of dung and straw and other rubbish which is left behind, +trod into the earth, and which is as good as a summer’s +fallow for dunging the land; and as I have said above, pays the +husbandman well for the use of it.</p> +<p>I should have mentioned that here is a court of justice always +open, and held every day in a shed built on purpose in the fair; +this is for keeping the peace, and deciding controversies in +matters deriving from the business of the fair. The +magistrates of the town of Cambridge are judges in this court, as +being in their jurisdiction, or they holding it by special +privilege: here they determine matters in a summary way, as is +practised in those we call Pye Powder Courts in other places, or +as a Court of Conscience; and they have a final authority without +appeal.</p> +<p>I come now to the town and university of Cambridge; I say the +town and university, for though they are blended together in the +situation, and the colleges, halls, and houses for literature are +promiscuously scattered up and down among the other parts, and +some even among the meanest of the other buildings, as Magdalene +College over the bridge is in particular; yet they are all +incorporated together by the name of the university, and are +governed apart and distinct from the town which they are so +intermixed with.</p> +<p>As their authority is distinct from the town, so are their +privileges, customs, and government; they choose representatives, +or members of Parliament for themselves, and the town does the +like for themselves, also apart.</p> +<p>The town is governed by a mayor and aldermen; the university +by a chancellor, and vice-chancellor, etc. Though their +dwellings are mixed, and seem a little confused, their authority +is not so; in some cases the vice-chancellor may concern himself +in the town, as in searching houses for the scholars at improper +hours, removing scandalous women, and the like.</p> +<p>But as the colleges are many, and the gentlemen entertained in +them are a very great number, the trade of the town very much +depends upon them, and the tradesmen may justly be said to get +their bread by the colleges; and this is the surest hold the +university may be said to have of the townsmen, and by which they +secure the dependence of the town upon them, and consequently +their submission.</p> +<p>I remember some years ago a brewer, who being very rich and +popular in the town, and one of their magistrates, had in several +things so much opposed the university, and insulted their +vice-chancellor, or other heads of houses, that in short the +university having no other way to exert themselves, and show +their resentment, they made a bye-law or order among themselves, +that for the future they would not trade with him; and that none +of the colleges, halls, etc., would take any more beer of him; +and what followed? The man indeed braved it out a while, +but when he found he could not obtain a revocation of the order, +he was fain to leave off his brewhouse, and if I remember right, +quitted the town.</p> +<p>Thus I say, interest gives them authority; and there are +abundance of reasons why the town should not disoblige the +university, as there are some also on the other hand, why the +university should not differ to any extremity with the town; nor, +such is their prudence, do they let any disputes between them run +up to any extremities if they can avoid it. As for society; +to any man who is a lover of learning, or of learned men, here is +the most agreeable under heaven; nor is there any want of mirth +and good company of other kinds; but it is to the honour of the +university to say, that the governors so well understand their +office, and the governed their duty, that here is very little +encouragement given to those seminaries of crime, the assemblies, +which are so much boasted of in other places.</p> +<p>Again, as dancing, gaming, intriguing are the three principal +articles which recommend those assemblies; and that generally the +time for carrying on affairs of this kind is the night, and +sometimes all night, a time as unseasonable as scandalous; add to +this, that the orders of the university admit no such excesses; I +therefore say, as this is the case, it is to the honour of the +whole body of the university that no encouragement is given to +them here.</p> +<p>As to the antiquity of the university in this town, the +originals and founders of the several colleges, their revenues, +laws, government, and governors, they are so effectually and so +largely treated of by other authors, and are so foreign to the +familiar design of these letters, that I refer my readers to Mr. +Camden’s “Britannia” and the author of the +“Antiquities of Cambridge,” and other such learned +writers, by whom they may be fully informed.</p> +<p>The present Vice-Chancellor is Dr. Snape, formerly Master of +Eaton School near Windsor, and famous for his dispute with, and +evident advantage over, the late Bishop of Bangor in the time of +his government; the dispute between the University and the Master +of Trinity College has been brought to a head so as to employ the +pens of the learned on both sides, but at last prosecuted in a +judicial way so as to deprive Dr. Bentley of all his dignities +and offices in the university; but the doctor flying to the royal +protection, the university is under a writ of mandamus, to show +cause why they do not restore the doctor again, to which it seems +they demur, and that demur has not, that we hear, been argued, at +least when these sheets were sent to the press. What will +be the issue time must show.</p> +<p>From Cambridge the road lies north-west on the edge of the +fens to Huntingdon, where it joins the great north road. On +this side it is all an agreeable corn country as above, adorned +with several seats of gentlemen; but the chief is the noble +house, seat, or mansion of Wimple or Wimple Hall, formerly built +at a vast expense by the late Earl of Radnor, adorned with all +the natural beauties of situation, and to which was added all the +most exquisite contrivances which the best heads could invent to +make it artificially as well as naturally pleasant.</p> +<p>However, the fate of the Radnor family so directing, it was +bought with the whole estate about it by the late Duke of +Newcastle, in a partition of whose immense estate it fell to the +Right Honourable the Lord Harley, son and heir-apparent of the +present Earl of Oxford and Mortimer, in right of the Lady Harriet +Cavendish, only daughter of the said Duke of Newcastle, who is +married to his lordship, and brought him this estate and many +other, sufficient to denominate her the richest heiress in Great +Britain.</p> +<p>Here his lordship resides, and has already so recommended +himself to this county as to be by a great majority chosen Knight +of the Shire for the county of Cambridge.</p> +<p>From Cambridge, my design obliging me, and the direct road in +part concurring, I came back through the west part of the county +of Essex, and at Saffron Walden I saw the ruins of the once +largest and most magnificent pile in all this part of +England—viz., Audley End—built by, and decaying with, +the noble Dukes and Earls of Suffolk.</p> +<p>A little north of this part of the country rises the River +Stour, which for a course of fifty miles or more parts the two +counties of Suffolk and Essex, passing through or near Haveril, +Clare, Cavendish, Halsted, Sudbury, Bowers, Nayland, Stretford, +Dedham, Manningtree, and into the sea at Harwich, assisting by +its waters to make one of the best harbours for shipping that is +in Great Britain—I mean Orwell Haven or Harwich, of which I +have spoken largely already.</p> +<p>As we came on this side we saw at a distance Braintree and +Bocking, two towns, large, rich, and populous, and made so +originally by the bay trade, of which I have spoken at large at +Colchester, and which flourishes still among them.</p> +<p>The manor of Braintree I found descended by purchase to the +name of Olmeus, the son of a London merchant of the same name, +making good what I had observed before, of the great number of +such who have purchased estates in this county.</p> +<p>Near this town is Felsted, a small place, but noted for a free +school of an ancient foundation, for many years under the +mastership of the late Rev. Mr. Lydiat, and brought by him to the +meridian of its reputation. It is now supplied, and that +very worthily, by the Rev. Mr. Hutchins.</p> +<p>Near to this is the Priory of Lees, a delicious seat of the +late Dukes of Manchester, but sold by the present Duke to the +Duchess Dowager of Bucks, his Grace the Duke of Manchester +removing to his yet finer seat of Kimbolton in Northamptonshire, +the ancient mansion of the family. From hence keeping the +London Road I came to Chelmsford, mentioned before, and +Ingerstone, five miles west, which I mention again, because in +the parish church of this town are to be seen the ancient +monuments of the noble family of Petre, whose seat and large +estate lie in the neighbourhood, and whose whole family, by a +constant series of beneficent actions to the poor, and bounty +upon all charitable occasions, have gained an affectionate esteem +through all that part of the country such as no prejudice of +religion could wear out, or perhaps ever may; and I must confess, +I think, need not, for good and great actions command our +respect, let the opinions of the persons be otherwise what they +will.</p> +<p>From hence we crossed the country to the great forest, called +Epping Forest, reaching almost to London. The country on +that side of Essex is called the Roodings, I suppose, because +there are no less than ten towns almost together, called by the +name of Roding, and is famous for good land, good malt, and dirty +roads; the latter indeed in the winter are scarce passable for +horse or man. In the midst of this we see Chipping Onger, +Hatfield Broad Oak, Epping, and many forest towns, famed as I +have said for husbandry and good malt, but of no other +note. On the south side of the county is Waltham Abbey; the +ruins of the abbey remain, and though antiquity is not my proper +business, I could not but observe that King Harold, slain in the +great battle in Sussex against William the Conqueror, lies buried +here; his body being begged by his mother, the Conqueror allowed +it to be carried hither; but no monument was, as I can find, +built for him, only a flat gravestone, on which was engraven +<i>Harold Infelix</i>.</p> +<p>From hence I came over the forest again—that is to say, +over the lower or western part of it, where it is spangled with +fine villages, and these villages filled with fine seats, most of +them built by the citizens of London, as I observed before, but +the lustre of them seems to be entirely swallowed up in the +magnificent palace of the Lord Castlemain, whose father, Sir +Josiah Child, as it were, prepared it in his life for the design +of his son, though altogether unforeseen, by adding to the +advantage of its situation innumerable rows of trees, planted in +curious order for avenues and vistas to the house, all leading up +to the place where the old house stood, as to a centre.</p> +<p>In the place adjoining, his lordship, while he was yet Sir +Richard Child only, and some years before he began the foundation +of his new house, laid out the most delicious, as well as most +spacious, pieces of ground for gardens that is to be seen in all +this part of England. The greenhouse is an excellent +building, fit to entertain a prince; it is furnished with stoves +and artificial places for heat from an apartment in which is a +bagnio and other conveniences, which render it both useful and +pleasant. And these gardens have been so the just +admiration of the world, that it has been the general diversion +of the citizens to go out to see them, till the crowds grew too +great, and his lordship was obliged to restrain his servants from +showing them, except on one or two days in a week only.</p> +<p>The house is built since these gardens have been +finished. The building is all of Portland stone in the +front, which makes it look extremely glorious and magnificent at +a distance, it being the particular property of that stone +(except in the streets of London, where it is tainted and tinged +with the smoke of the city) to grow whiter and whiter the longer +it stands in the open air.</p> +<p>As the front of the house opens to a long row of trees, +reaching to the great road at Leightonstone, so the back face, or +front (if that be proper), respects the gardens, and, with an +easy descent, lands you upon the terrace, from whence is a most +beautiful prospect to the river, which is all formed into canals +and openings to answer the views from above and beyond the river; +the walks and wildernesses go on to such a distance, and in such +a manner up the hill, as they before went down, that the sight is +lost in the woods adjoining, and it looks all like one planted +garden as far as the eye can see.</p> +<p>I shall cover as much as possible the melancholy part of a +story which touches too sensibly many, if not most, of the great +and flourishing families in England. Pity and matter of +grief is it to think that families, by estate able to appear in +such a glorious posture as this, should ever be vulnerable by so +mean a disaster as that of stock-jobbing. But the general +infatuation of the day is a plea for it, so that men are not now +blamed on that account. South Sea was a general possession, +and if my Lord Castlemain was wounded by that arrow shot in the +dark it was a misfortune. But it is so much a happiness +that it was not a mortal wound, as it was to some men who once +seemed as much out of the reach of it. And that blow, be it +what it will, is not remembered for joy of the escape, for we see +this noble family, by prudence and management, rise out of all +that cloud, if it may be allowed such a name, and shining in the +same full lustre as before.</p> +<p>This cannot be said of some other families in this county, +whose fine parks and new-built palaces are fallen under +forfeitures and alienations by the misfortunes of the times and +by the ruin of their masters’ fortunes in that South Sea +deluge.</p> +<p>But I desire to throw a veil over these things as they come in +my way; it is enough that we write upon them, as was written upon +King Harold’s tomb at Waltham Abbey, <i>Infelix</i>, and +let all the rest sleep among things that are the fittest to be +forgotten.</p> +<p>From my Lord Castlemain’s, house and the rest of the +fine dwellings on that side of the forest, for there are several +very good houses at Wanstead, only that they seem all swallowed +up in the lustre of his lordship’s palace, I say, from +thence, I went south, towards the great road over that part of +the forest called the Flats, where we see a very beautiful but +retired and rural seat of Mr. Lethulier’s, eldest son of +the late Sir John Lethulier, of Lusum, in Kent, of whose family I +shall speak when I come on that side.</p> +<p>By this turn I came necessarily on to Stratford, where I set +out. And thus having finished my first circuit, I conclude +my first letter, and am,</p> +<p style="text-align: right">Sir, your most humble<br /> +and obedient servant.</p> +<h3>APPENDIX.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Whoever</span> travels, as I do, over +England, and writes the account of his observations, will, as I +noted before, always leave something, altering or undertaking by +such a growing improving nation as this, or something to discover +in a nation where so much is hid, sufficient to employ the pens +of those that come after him, or to add by way of appendix to +what he has already observed.</p> +<p>This is my case with respect to the particulars which follow: +(1) Since these sheets were in the press, a noble palace of Mr. +Walpole’s, at present First Commissioner of the Treasury, +Privy-counsellor, etc., to King George, is, as it were, risen out +of the ruins of the ancient seat of the family of Walpole, at +Houghton, about eight miles distant from Lynn, and on the north +coast of Norfolk, near the sea.</p> +<p>As the house is not yet finished, and when I passed by it was +but newly designed, it cannot be expected that I should be able +to give a particular description of what it will be. I can +do little more than mention that it appears already to be +exceedingly magnificent, and suitable to the genius of the great +founder.</p> +<p>But a friend of mine, who lives in that county, has sent me +the following lines, which, as he says, are to be placed upon the +building, whether on the frieze of the cornice, or over the +portico, or on what part of the building, of that I am not as yet +certain. The inscription is as follows, viz.:—</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“H. M. P.</p> +<p>“<i>Fundamen ut essem Domûs</i><br /> +<i>In Agro Natali Extruendæ</i>,<br /> +Robertus ille Walpole<br /> +Quem nulla nesciet Posteritas:</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Faxit Dues</i>.</p> +<p>“<i>Postquam Maturus Annis Dominus</i>.<br /> +<i>Diu Lætatus fuerit absolutâ</i><br /> +<i>Incolumem tueantur Incolames</i>.<br /> +<i>Ad Summam omnium Diem</i><br /> +<i>Et nati natorum et qui nascentur ab illis</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Hic me Posuit</i>.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>A second thing proper to be added here, by way of appendix, +relates to what I have mentioned of the Port of London, being +bounded by the Naze on the Essex shore, and the North Foreland on +the Kentish shore, which some people, guided by the present usage +of the Custom House, may pretend is not so, to answer such +objectors. The true state of that case stands thus:</p> +<p>“(1) The clause taken from the Act of Parliament +establishing the extent of the Port of London, and published in +some of the books of rates, is this:</p> +<p>“‘To prevent all future differences and disputes +touching the extent and limits of the Port of London, the said +port is declared to extend, and be accounted from the promontory +or point called the North Foreland in the Isle of Thanet, and +from thence northward in a right line to the point called the +Naze, beyond the Gunfleet upon the coast of Essex, and so +continued westward throughout the river Thames, and the several +channels, streams, and rivers falling into it, to London Bridge, +saving the usual and known rights, liberties, and privileges of +the ports of Sandwich and Ipswich, and either of them, and the +known members thereof, and of the customers, comptrollers, +searchers, and their deputies, of and within the said ports of +Sandwich and Ipswich and the several creeks, harbours, and havens +to them, or either of them, respectively belonging, within the +counties of Kent and Essex.’</p> +<p>“II. Notwithstanding what is above written, the +Port of London, as in use since the said order, is understood to +reach no farther than Gravesend in Kent and Tilbury Point in +Essex, and the ports of Rochester, Milton, and Faversham belong +to the port of Sandwich.</p> +<p>“In like manner the ports of Harwich, Colchester, +Wivenhoe, Malden, Leigh, etc., are said to be members of the port +of Ipswich.”</p> +<p>This observation may suffice for what is needful to be said +upon the same subject when I may come to speak of the port of +Sandwich and its members and their privileges with respect to +Rochester, Milton, Faversham, etc., in my circuit through the +county of Kent.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR THROUGH THE EASTERN COUNTIES OF</p> +<pre> +ENGLAND, 1722*** + + +***** This file should be named 983-h.htm or 983-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/9/8/983 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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