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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mormon Settlement in Arizona
+by James H. McClintock
+
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+Title: Mormon Settlement in Arizona
+
+Author: James H. McClintock
+
+Release Date: January, 2006  [EBook #9661]
+[This file was first posted on October 14, 2003]
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+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, MORMON SETTLEMENT IN ARIZONA ***
+
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+E-text prepared by David Starner, Mary Meehan, and Project Gutenberg
+Distributed Proofreaders
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+
+MORMON SETTLEMENT IN ARIZONA
+
+A RECORD OF PEACEFUL CONQUEST OF THE DESERT
+
+BY JAMES H. McCLINTOCK
+
+ARIZONA HISTORIAN
+
+1921
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THOS. E. CAMPBELL Governor of Arizona]
+
+[Illustration: COL. JAS. H. McCLINTOCK Arizona Historian]
+
+[Illustration: "EL VADO," THE CROSSING OF THE FATHERS Gateway of the
+Pioneers Into Arizona]
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+This publication, covering a field of southwestern interest hitherto
+unworked, has had material assistance from Governor Thos. E. Campbell,
+himself a student of Arizona history, especially concerned in matters of
+development. There has been hearty cooperation on the part of the
+Historian of the Mormon Church, in Salt Lake City, and the immense
+resources of his office have been offered freely and have been drawn upon
+often for verification of data, especially covering the earlier periods.
+There should be personal mention of the late A.H. Lund, Church Historian,
+and of his assistant, Andrew Jenson, and of Church Librarian A. Wm. Lund,
+who have responded cheerfully to all queries from the Author. There has
+been appreciated interest in the work by Heber J. Grant, President of the
+Church, and by many pioneers and their descendants.
+
+The Mormon Church maintains a marvelous record of its Church history and
+of its membership. The latter record is considered of the largest value,
+carrying out the study of family genealogy that attaches so closely to
+the theology of the denomination. During the fall of 1919, Andrew Jenson
+of the Church Historian's office, started checking and correcting the
+official data covering Arizona and New Mexico settlements. This involved
+a trip that included almost every village and district of this State.
+Mr. Jenson was accompanied by LeRoi C. Snow, Secretary to the Arizona
+State Historian and a historical student whose heart and faithful effort
+have been in the work. Many corrections were made and many additions were
+secured at first hand, from pioneers of the various settlements. At least
+2000 letters have had to be written by this office. The data was put into
+shape and carefully compiled by Mr. Snow, whose service has been of the
+largest value. As a result, in the office of the Arizona State Historian
+now is an immense quantity of typewritten matter that covers most fully
+the personal features of Mormon settlement and development in the
+Southwest. This has had careful indexing.
+
+Accumulation of data was begun the last few months of the lifetime of
+Thomas E. Farish, who had been State Historian since Arizona's assumption
+of statehood in 1912. Upon his regretted passing, in October of 1919, the
+task of compilation and writing and of possible publication dropped upon
+the shoulders of his successor. The latter has found the task one of most
+interesting sort and hopes that the resultant book contains matter of
+value to the student of history who may specialize on the Southwest. By
+no means has the work been compiled with desire to make it especially
+acceptable to the people of whom it particularly treats--save insomuch as
+it shall cover truthfully their migrations and their work of development.
+With intention, there has been omitted reference to their religious
+beliefs and to the trials that, in the earlier days, attended the
+attempted exercise of such beliefs.
+
+Naturally, there has had to be condensation of the mass of data collected
+by this office. Much of biographical interest has had to be omitted. To
+as large an extent as possible, there has been verification from outside
+sources.
+
+Much of the material presented now is printed for the first time. This
+notably is true in regard to the settlement of the Muddy, the southern
+point of Nevada, which in early political times was a part of Arizona
+Territory and hence comes within this work's purview. There has been
+inclusion of the march of the Mormon Battalion and of the Californian,
+New Mexican and Mexican settlements, as affecting the major features of
+Arizona's agricultural settlement and as contributing to a more concrete
+grasp of the idea that drove the Mormon pioneers far afield from the
+relative comfort of their Church centers.
+
+JAS. H. McCLINTOCK,
+Arizona State Historian.
+
+Phoenix, Arizona, May 31, 1921.
+
+
+
+
+SUMMARY OF SUBJECTS
+
+
+Chapter One
+
+WILDERNESS BREAKERS--Mormon Colonization in the West; Pioneers in
+Agriculture; First Farmers in Many States; The Wilderness Has Been Kept
+Broken.
+
+
+Chapter Two
+
+THE MORMON BATTALION--Soldiers Who Sought No Strife; California Was the
+Goal; Organization of the Battalion; Cooke Succeeds to the Command; The
+March Through the Southwest; Capture of the Pueblo of Tucson;
+Congratulation on Its Achievement; Mapping the Way Through Arizona;
+Manufactures of the Arizona Indians; Cooke's Story of the March; Tyler's
+Record of the Expedition; Henry Standage's Personal Journal; California
+Towns and Soldier Experiences; Christopher Layton's Soldiering; Western
+Dash of the Kearny Dragoons.
+
+
+Chapter Three
+
+THE BATTALION'S MUSTER-OUT--Heading Eastward Toward "Home"; With the
+Pueblo Detachment; California Comments on the Battalion; Leaders of the
+Battalion; Passing of the Battalion Membership; A Memorial of Noble
+Conception; Battalion Men Who Became Arizonans.
+
+
+Chapter Four
+
+CALIFORNIA'S MORMON PILGRIMS--The Brooklyn Party at San Francisco;
+Beginnings of a Great City; Brannan's Hope of Pacific Empire; Present at
+the Discovery of Gold; Looking Toward Southern California; Forced From
+the Southland; How Sirrine Saved the Gold.
+
+
+Chapter Five
+
+THE STATE OF DESERET--A Vast Intermountain Commonwealth; Boundary Lines
+Established; Segregation of the Western Territories; Map of State of
+Deseret.
+
+
+Chapter Six
+
+EARLY ROADS AND TRAVELERS--Old Spanish Trail Through Utah; Creation of
+the Mormon Road; Mormon Settlement at Tubac; A Texan Settlement of the
+Faith.
+
+
+Chapter Seven
+
+MISSIONARY PIONEERING--Hamblin, "Leatherstocking of the Southwest";
+Aboriginal Diversions; Encounter with Federal Explorers; The Hopi and the
+Welsh Legend; Indians Await Their Prophets; Navajo Killing of Geo. A.
+Smith, Jr.; A Seeking of Baptism for Gain; The First Tour Around the
+Grand Canyon; A Visit to the Hava-Supai Indians; Experiences with the
+Redskins; Killing of Whitmore and McIntire.
+
+
+Chapter Eight
+
+HAMBLIN AMONG THE INDIANS--Visiting the Paiutes with Powell; A Great
+Conference with the Navajo; An Official Record of the Council; Navajos to
+Keep South of the River; Tuba's Visit to the White Men; The Sacred Stone
+of the Hopi; In the Land of the Navajo; Hamblin's Greatest Experience;
+The Old Scout's Later Years.
+
+
+Chapter Nine
+
+CROSSING THE MIGHTY COLORADO--Early Use of "El Vado de Los Padres";
+Ferrying at the Paria Mouth; John D. Lee on the Colorado; Lee's Canyon
+Residence Was Brief; Crossing the Colorado on the Ice; Crossings Below
+the Grand Canyon; Settlements North of the Canyon; Arizona's First
+Telegraph Station; Arizona's Northernmost Village.
+
+
+Chapter Ten
+
+ARIZONA'S PIONEER NORTHWEST--History of the Southern Nevada Point; Map of
+Pah-ute County; Missionaries of the Desert; Diplomatic Dealings with the
+Redskins; Near Approaches to Indian Warfare; Utilization of the Colorado
+River; Steamboats on the Shallow Stream; Establishing a River Port.
+
+
+Chapter Eleven
+
+IN THE VIRGIN AND MUDDY VALLEYS--First Agriculture in Northern Arizona;
+Villages of Pioneer Days; Brigham Young Makes Inspection; Nevada Assumes
+Jurisdiction; The Nevada Point Abandoned; Political Organization Within
+Arizona; Pah-ute's Political Vicissitudes; Later Settlement in "The
+Point,"; Salt Mountains of the Virgin; Peaceful Frontier Communities.
+
+
+Chapter Twelve
+
+THE UNITED ORDER--Development of a Communal System; Not a General Church
+Movement; Mormon Cooperative Stores.
+
+
+Chapter Thirteen
+
+SPREADING INTO NORTHERN ARIZONA--Failure of the First Expeditions;
+Missionary Scouts in Northeastern Arizona; Foundation of Four
+Settlements; Northeastern Arizona Map; Genesis of St. Joseph; Struggling
+with a Treacherous River; Decline and Fall of Sunset; Village Communal
+Organization; Hospitality Was of Generous Sort; Brigham City's Varied
+Industries; Brief Lives of Obed and Taylor.
+
+
+Chapter Fourteen
+
+TRAVEL, MISSIONS AND INDUSTRIES--Passing of the Boston Party; At the
+Naming of Flagstaff; Southern Saints Brought Smallpox; Fort Moroni, at
+LeRoux Spring; Stockaded Against the Indians; Mormon Dairy and the
+Mount Trumbull Mill; Where Salt Was Secured; The Mission Post of Moen
+Copie; Indians Who Knew Whose Ox Was Gored; A Woolen Factory in the
+Wilds; Lot Smith and His End; Moen Copie Reverts to the Indians; Woodruff
+and Its Water Troubles; Holbrook Once Was Horsehead Crossing.
+
+
+Chapter Fifteen
+
+SETTLEMENT SPREADS SOUTHWARD--Snowflake and Its Naming; Joseph Fish,
+Historian; Taylor, Second of the Name; Shumway's Historic Founder;
+Showlow Won in a Game of "Seven-Up"; Mountain Communities; Forest Dale on
+the Reservation; Tonto Basin's Early Settlement.
+
+
+Chapter Sixteen
+
+LITTLE COLORADO SETTLEMENTS--Genesis of St. Johns; Land Purchased by
+Mormons; Wild Celebration of St. John's Day; Disputes Over Land Titles;
+Irrigation Difficulties and Disaster; Meager Rations at Concho;
+Springerville and Eagar; A Land of Beaver and Bear; Altitudinous
+Agriculture at Alpine; In Western New Mexico; New Mexican Locations.
+
+
+Chapter Seventeen
+
+ECONOMIC CONDITIONS--Nature and Man Both Were Difficult; Railroad Work
+Brought Bread; Burden of a Railroad Land Grant; Little Trouble with
+Indians; Church Administrative Features.
+
+
+Chapter Eighteen
+
+EXTENSION TOWARD MEXICO--Dan W. Jones' Great Exploring Trip; The
+Pratt-Stewart-Trejo Expedition; Start of the Lehi Community; Plat of
+Lehi; Transformation Wrought at Camp Utah; Departure of the Merrill
+Party; Lehi's Later Development.
+
+
+Chapter Nineteen
+
+THE PLANTING OF MESA--Transformation of a Desert Plain; Use of a
+Prehistoric Canal; Moving Upon the Mesa Townsite; An Irrigation Clash
+That Did Not Come; Mesa's Civic Administration; Foundation of Alma;
+Highways Into the Mountains; Hayden's Ferry, Latterly Tempe; Organization
+of the Maricopa Stake; A Great Temple to Rise in Mesa.
+
+
+Chapter Twenty
+
+FIRST FAMILIES OF ARIZONA--Pueblo Dwellers of Ancient Times; Map of
+Prehistoric Canals; Evidences of Well-Developed Culture; Northward Trend
+of the Ancient People; The Great Reavis Land Grant Fraud.
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-one
+
+NEAR THE MEXICAN BORDER--Location on the San Pedro River; Malaria
+Overcomes a Community; On the Route of the Mormon Battalion; Chronicles
+of a Quiet Neighborhood; Looking Toward Homes in Mexico; Arizona's First
+Artesian Well; Development of a Market at Tombstone.
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-two
+
+ON THE UPPER GILA--Ancient Dwellers and Military Travelers; Early Days
+Around Safford; Map of Southeastern Arizona; Mormon Location at
+Smithville; A Second Party Locates at Graham; Vicissitudes of Pioneering;
+Gila Community of the Faith; Considering the Lamanites; The Hostile
+Chiricahuas; Murders by Indian Raiders; Outlawry Along the Gila; A Gray
+Highway of Danger.
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-three
+
+CIVIC AND CHURCH FEATURES--Troublesome River Conditions; Basic Law in a
+Mormon Community; Layton, Soldier and Pioneer; A New Leader on the Gila;
+Church Academies of Learning.
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-four
+
+MOVEMENT INTO MEXICO--Looking Over the Land; Colonization in Chihuahua;
+Prosperity in an Alien Land; Abandonment of the Mountain Colonies; Sad
+Days for the Sonora Colonists; Congressional Inquiry; Repopulation of the
+Mexican Colonies.
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-five
+
+MODERN DEVELOPMENT--Oases Have Grown in the Desert; Prosperity Has
+Succeeded Privation.
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY
+
+PLACE NAMES OF THE SOUTHWEST
+
+CHRONOLOGY
+
+TRAGEDIES OF THE FRONTIER
+
+INDEX
+
+MAP OF ARIZONA MORMON SETTLEMENT
+
+
+
+
+_THE ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+
+"El Vado," Pioneer Gateway into Arizona
+
+Mormon Battalion Officers
+
+Battalion Members at Gold Discovery in California
+
+Battalion Members who Returned to Arizona
+
+Battalion Members who Returned to Arizona
+
+Battalion Members who Returned to Arizona
+
+The Mormon Battalion Monument
+
+Old Spanish Pueblo of Tubac
+
+Jacob Hamblin, "Apostle to the Lamanites"
+
+The Church Presidents
+
+Lieutenant Ives' Steamboat on the Colorado in 1858
+
+Ammon M. Tenney, Pioneer Scout of the Southwest
+
+Early Missionaries Among the Indians
+
+Moen Copie, First Headquarters of Missionaries to the Moquis
+
+Pipe Springs or Windsor Castle
+
+Moccasin Springs on Road to the Paria
+
+In the Kaibab Forest, near the Home of the Shivwits Indians
+
+A Fredonia Street Scene
+
+Walpi, One of the Hopi (Moqui) Villages
+
+Warren M. Johnson's House at Paria Ferry
+
+Crossing of the Colorado at the Paria Ferry
+
+Brigham Young and Party at Mouth of Virgin in 1870
+
+Baptism of the Tribe of Shivwits Indians
+
+Founders of the Colorado River Ferries
+
+Crossing the Colorado River at Scanlon's Ferry
+
+Crossing the Little Colorado River with Ox Teams
+
+Old Fort at Brigham City
+
+Woodruff Dam, After One of the Frequent Washouts
+
+First Permanent Dam at St. Joseph
+
+Colorado Ferry and Ranch at the Mouth of the Paria (G.W. James)
+
+Lee Cabin at Moen Avi (Photo by Dr. Geo. Wharton James)
+
+Moen Copie Woolen Mill
+
+Grand Falls on the Little Colorado
+
+Old Fort Moroni with its Stockade
+
+Fort Moroni in Later Years
+
+Erastus Snow, Who Had Charge of Arizona Colonization
+
+Anthony W. Ivins
+
+Joseph W. McMurrin
+
+Joseph Fish, an Arizona Historian
+
+Joseph H. Richards of St. Joseph
+
+St. Joseph Pioneers and Historian Andrew Jenson
+
+Shumway and the Old Mill on Silver Creek
+
+First Mormon School, Church and Bowery at St. Johns
+
+David K. Udall and His First Residence at St. Johns
+
+St. Johns in 1887
+
+Stake Academy at St. Johns
+
+Founders of Northern Arizona Settlements
+
+Group of Pioneers
+
+Presidents of Five Arizona Stakes
+
+Old Academy at Snowflake
+
+New Academy at Snowflake
+
+The Desolate Road to the Colorado Ferry
+
+Leaders of Unsuccessful Expeditions
+
+First Party to Southern Arizona and Mexico
+
+Second Party to Southern Arizona and Mexico
+
+Original Lehi Locators
+
+Founders of Mesa
+
+Maricopa Stake Presidents
+
+Maricopa Delegation at Pinetop Conference
+
+The Arizona Temple at Mesa
+
+Jonathan Heaton and His Fifteen Sons
+
+Northern Arizona Pioneers
+
+Teeples House, First in Pima
+
+First Schoolhouse at Safford
+
+Gila Normal College at Thatcher
+
+Gila Valley Pioneers
+
+Pioneer Women of the Gila Valley
+
+Killed by Indians
+
+Killed by Outlaws
+
+
+
+
+SPECIAL MAPS
+
+
+State of Deseret
+
+Pah-ute County, Showing the Muddy Settlements
+
+Northeastern Arizona, Showing Little Colorado Settlements
+
+Lehi, Plan of Settlement
+
+Ancient Canals of Salt River Valley
+
+Southeastern Arizona
+
+Arizona Mormon Settlement and Early Roads
+
+
+
+
+Chapter One
+
+Wilderness Breakers
+
+
+Mormon Colonization In the West
+
+The Author would ask earliest appreciation by the reader that this work
+on "Mormon Settlement in Arizona" has been written by one entirely
+outside that faith and that, in no way, has it to do with the doctrines
+of a sect set aside as distinct and peculiar to itself, though it claims
+fellowship with any denomination that follows the teachings of the
+Nazarene. The very word "Mormon" in publications of that denomination
+usually is put within quotation marks, accepted only as a nickname for
+the preferred and lengthier title of "Church of Jesus Christ of
+Latter-day Saints." Outside the Church, the word, at least till within a
+decade or so, has been one that has formed the foundation for much of
+denunciation. There was somewhat of pathos in the remark to the Author by
+a high Mormon official, "There never has been middle ground in literature
+that affected the Mormons--it either has been written against us or for
+us." From a religious standpoint, this work is on neutral ground. But,
+from the standpoint of western colonization and consequent benefit to the
+Nation, the Author trusts the reader will join with him in appreciation
+of the wonderful work that has been done by these people. It is this
+field especially that has been covered in this book.
+
+Occasionally it will be found that the colonizers have been referred to
+as "Saints." It is a shortening of the preferred title, showing a lofty
+moral aspiration, at least. It would be hard to imagine wickedness
+proceeding from such a designation, though the Church itself assuredly
+would be the first to disclaim assumption of full saintliness within its
+great membership. Still, there might be testimony from the writer that he
+has lived near the Mormons, of Arizona for more than forty years and in
+that time has found them law-abiding and industrious, generally of sturdy
+English, Scotch, Scandinavian or Yankee stock wherein such qualities
+naturally run with the blood. If there be with such people the further
+influence of a religion that binds in a union of faith and in works of
+the most practical sort, surely there must be accomplishment of material
+and important things.
+
+
+Pioneers in Agriculture
+
+In general, the Mormon (and the word will be used without quotation
+marks) always has been agricultural. The Church itself appears to have a
+foundation idea that its membership shall live by, upon and through the
+products of the soil. It will be found in this work that Church influence
+served to turn men from even the gold fields of California to the
+privations of pioneer Utah. It also will be found that the Church,
+looking for extension and yet careful of the interests of its membership,
+directed the expeditions that penetrated every part of the Southwest.
+
+There was a pioneer Mormon period in Arizona, that might as well be
+called the missionary period. Then came the prairie schooners that bore,
+from Utah, men and women to people and redeem the arid southland valleys.
+Most of this colonization was in Arizona, where the field was
+comparatively open. In California there had been religious persecution
+and in New Mexico the valleys very generally had been occupied for
+centuries by agricultural Indians and by native peoples speaking an alien
+tongue. There was extension over into northern Mexico, with consequent
+travail when impotent governments crumbled. But in Arizona, in the
+valleys of the Little Colorado, the Salt, the Gila and the San Pedro and
+of their tributaries and at points where the white man theretofore had
+failed, if he had reached them at all, the Mormons set their stakes and,
+with united effort, soon cleared the land, dug ditches and placed dams
+in unruly streams, all to the end that farms should smile where the
+desert had reigned. It all needed imagination and vision, something that,
+very properly, may be called faith. Sometimes there was failure.
+Occasionally the brethren failed to live in unity. They were human. But,
+at all times, back of them were the serenity and judgment and resources
+of the Church and with them went the engendered confidence that all would
+be well, whatever befell of finite sort. It has been said that faith
+removes mountains. The faith that came with these pioneers was well
+backed and carried with it brawn and industry.
+
+"Mormon Settlement in Arizona" should not carry the idea that Arizona was
+settled wholly by Mormons. Before them came the Spaniards, who went north
+of the Gila only as explorers and missionaries and whose agriculture
+south of that stream assuredly was not of enduring value. There were
+trappers, prospectors, miners, cattlemen and farmers long before the
+wagons from Utah first rolled southward, but the fact that Arizona's
+agricultural development owes enormously to Mormon effort can be
+appreciated in considering the establishment and development of the
+fertile areas of Mesa, Lehi, the Safford-Thatcher-Franklin district,
+St. David on the San Pedro, and the many settlements of northeastern
+Arizona, with St. Johns and Snowflake as their headquarters.
+
+It is a remarkable fact that Mormon immigrants made even a greater number
+of agricultural settlements in Arizona than did the numerically
+preponderating other peoples. However, the explanation is a simple one:
+The average immigrant, coming without organization, for himself alone,
+naturally gravitated to the mines--indeed, was brought to the Southwest
+by the mines. There was little to attract him in the desert plains
+through which ran intermittent stream flows, and he lacked the vision
+that showed the desert developed into the oasis. The Mormon, however,
+came usually from an agricultural environment. Rarely was he a miner.
+
+Of later years there has been much community commingling of the Mormon
+and the non-Mormon. There even has been a second immigration from Utah,
+usually of people of means. The day has passed for the ox-bowed wagon and
+for settlements out in the wilderness. There has been left no wilderness
+in which to work magic through labor. But the Mormon influence still is
+strong in agricultural Arizona and the high degree of development of
+many of her localities is based upon the pioneer settlement and work that
+are dealt with in the succeeding pages.
+
+
+First Farmers in Many States
+
+It is a fact little appreciated that the Mormons have been first in
+agricultural colonization of nearly all the intermountain States of
+today. This may have been providential, though the western movement of
+the Church happened in a time of the greatest shifting of population ever
+known on the continent. It preceded by about a year the discovery of gold
+in California, and gold, of course, was the lodestone that drew the
+greatest of west-bound migrations. The Mormons, however, were first. Not
+drawn by visions of wealth, unless they looked forward to celestial
+mansions, they sought, particularly, valleys wherein peace and plenty
+could be secured by labor. Nearly all were farmers and it was from the
+earth they designed drawing their subsistence and enough wherewith to
+establish homes.
+
+Of course, the greatest of foundations was that at Salt Lake, July 24,
+1847, when Brigham Young led his Pioneers down from the canyons and
+declared the land good. But there were earlier settlements.
+
+First of the faith on the western slopes of the continent was the
+settlement at San Francisco by Mormons from the ship Brooklyn. They
+landed July 31, 1846, to found the first English speaking community of
+the Golden State, theretofore Mexican. These Mormons established the
+farming community of New Helvetia, in the San Joaquin Valley, the same
+fall, while men from the Mormon Battalion, January 24, 1848, participated
+in the discovery of gold at Sutter's Fort. Mormons also were pioneers in
+Southern California, where, in 1851, several hundred families of the
+faith settled at San Bernardino.
+
+The first Anglo-Saxon settlement within the boundaries of the present
+State of Colorado was at Pueblo, November 15, 1846, by Capt. James Brown
+and about 150 Mormon men and women who had been sent back from New
+Mexico, into which they had gone, a part of the Mormon Battalion that
+marched on to the Pacific Coast.
+
+The first American settlement in Nevada was one of Mormons in the Carson
+Valley, at Genoa, in 1851.
+
+In Wyoming, as early as 1854, was a Mormon settlement at Green River,
+near Fort Bridger, known as Fort Supply.
+
+In Idaho, too, preeminence is claimed by virtue of a Mormon settlement at
+Fort Lemhi, on the Salmon River, in 1855, and at Franklin, in Cache
+Valley, in 1860.
+
+The earliest Spanish settlement of Arizona, within its present political
+boundaries, was in the Santa Cruz Valley not far from the southern
+border. There was a large ranch at Calabasas at a very early date, and at
+that point Custodian Frank Pinkley of the Tumacacori mission ruins
+lately discovered the remains of a sizable church. A priest had station
+at San Xavier in 1701. Tubac as a presidio dates from 1752, Tumacacori
+from 1754 and Tucson from 1776. These, however, were Spanish settlements,
+missions or presidios. In the north, Prescott was founded in May, 1864,
+and the Verde Valley was peopled in February, 1865. Earlier still were
+Fort Mohave, reestablished by soldiers of the California Column in 1863,
+and Fort Defiance, on the eastern border line, established in 1849. A
+temporary Mormon settlement at Tubac in 1851, is elsewhere described. But
+in honorable place in point of seniority are to be noted the Mormon
+settlements on the Muddy and the Virgin, particularly, in the very
+northwestern corner of the present Arizona and farther westward in the
+southern-most point of Nevada, once a part of Arizona. In this
+northwestern Arizona undoubtedly was the first permanent Anglo-Saxon
+agricultural settlement in Arizona, that at Beaver Dams, now known as
+Littlefield, on the Virgin, founded at least as early as the fall of
+1864.
+
+
+The Wilderness Has Been Kept Broken
+
+Of the permanence and quality of the Mormon pioneering, strong testimony
+is offered by F. S. Dellenbaugh in his "Breaking the Wilderness:"
+
+"It must be acknowledged that the Mormons were wilderness breakers of
+high quality. They not only broke it, but they kept it broken; and
+instead of the gin mill and the gambling hell, as corner-stones of their
+progress and as examples to the natives of the white men's superiority,
+they planted orchards, gardens, farms, schoolhouses and peaceful homes.
+There is today no part of the United States where human life is safer
+than in the land of the Mormons; no place where there is less
+lawlessness. A people who have accomplished so much that is good, who
+have endured danger, privation and suffering, who have withstood the
+obloquy of more powerful sects, have in them much that is commendable;
+they deserve more than abuse; they deserve admiration."
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Two
+
+The Mormon Battalion
+
+
+Soldiers Who Sought No Strife
+
+The march of the Mormon Battalion to the Pacific sea in 1846-7 created
+one of the most picturesque features of American history and one without
+parallel in American military annals. There was incidental creation,
+through Arizona, of the first southwestern wagon road. Fully as
+remarkable as its travel was the constitution of the Battalion itself. It
+was assembled hastily for an emergency that had to do with the seizure of
+California from Mexico. Save for a few officers detailed from the regular
+army, not a man had been a soldier, unless in the rude train-bands that
+held annual muster in that stage of the Nation's progress, however
+skilled certain members might have been in the handling of hunting arms.
+
+Organization was a matter of only a few days before the column had been
+put into motion toward the west. There was no drill worthy of the name.
+There was establishment of companies simply as administrative units.
+Discipline seems to have been very lax indeed, even if there were periods
+in which severity of undue sort appears to have been made manifest by the
+superior officers.
+
+Still more remarkable, the rank and file glorified in being men of peace,
+to whom strife was abhorrent. They were recruited from a people who had
+been driven from a home of prosperity and who at the time were encamped
+in most temporary fashion, awaiting the word of their leaders to pass on
+to the promised western Land of Canaan. For a part of the way there went
+with the Battalion parts of families, surely a very unmilitary
+proceeding, but most of people, whom they were to join later on the shore
+of the Great Salt Lake of which they knew so little. They were illy clad
+and shod, were armed mainly with muskets of type even then obsolete, were
+given wagon transportation from the odds and ends of a military post
+equipment and thus were set forth upon their great adventure.
+
+Formation of the Mormon Battalion came logically as a part of the
+determination of the Mormon people to seek a new home in the West, for in
+1846 there had come conclusion that no permanent peace could be known in
+Illinois or in any of the nearby States, owing to religious prejudice.
+The High Council had made announcement of the intention of the people to
+move to some good valleys of the Rocky Mountains. President Jesse C.
+Little of the newly created Eastern States Mission of the Church, was
+instructed to visit Washington and to secure, if possible, governmental
+assistance in the western migration. One suggestion was that the Mormons
+be sent to construct a number of stockade posts along the overland route.
+But, finally, after President Little had had several conferences with
+President Polk, there came decision to accept enlistment of a Mormon
+military command, for dispatch to the Pacific Coast. The final orders cut
+down the enlistment from a proffered 2000 to 500 individuals.
+
+
+California Was the Goal
+
+There should be understanding at the outset that the Mormon Battalion was
+a part of the volunteer soldiery of the Mexican War. At the time there
+was a regular army of very small proportions, and that was being held for
+the descent upon the City of Mexico, via Vera Cruz, under General Scott.
+General Taylor had volunteers for the greater part of his northern army
+in Mexico. Doniphan in his expedition into Chihuahua mainly had Missouri
+volunteers.
+
+In California was looming a very serious situation. Only sailors were
+available to help American settlers in seizing and holding the coast
+against a very active and exceptionally well-provided and intelligent
+Mexican, or Spanish-speaking, opposition. Fremont and his "surveying
+party" hardly had improved the situation in bringing dissension into the
+American armed forces. General Kearny had been dispatched with all speed
+from Fort Leavenworth westward, with a small force of dragoons, later
+narrowly escaping disaster as he approached San Diego. There was
+necessity for a supporting party for Kearny and for poor vision of troops
+to enforce an American peace in California. To fill this breach, resort
+was had to the harassed and homeless Saints.
+
+The route was taken along the Santa Fe trail, which then, in 1846, was in
+use mainly by buffalo hunters and western trading and trapping parties.
+It was long before the western migration of farm seekers, and the lure of
+gold yet was distant. There were unsatisfactory conditions of
+administration and travel, as narrated by historians of the command,
+mainly enlisted men, naturally with the viewpoint of the private soldier.
+But it happens that the details agree, in general, and indicate that the
+trip throughout was one of hardship and of denial. There came the loss of
+a respected commander and the temporary accession of an impolitic leader.
+Especially there was complaint over the mistaken zeal of an army surgeon,
+who insisted upon the administration of calomel and who denied the men
+resort to their own simple remedies, reinforced by expression of what
+must have been a very sustaining sort of faith.
+
+A more popular, though strict, commander was found in Santa Fe, whence
+the Battalion was pushed forward again within five days, following Kearny
+to the Coast. The Rockies were passed through a trackless wilderness, yet
+on better lines than had been found by Kearny's horsemen. Arizona, as now
+known, was entered not far from the present city of Douglas. There were
+fights with wild bulls in the San Pedro valley, there was a bloodless
+victory in the taking of the ancient pueblo of Tucson, there was travail
+in the passage of the desert to the Gila and a brief respite in the
+plenty of the Pima villages before the weary way was taken down the Gila
+to the Colorado and thence across the sands of the Colorado desert, in
+California, to the shores of the western ocean.
+
+All this was done on foot. The start from Leavenworth was in the heat of
+summer, August 12, 1846. Two months later Santa Fe was entered, Tucson
+was passed in December and on January 27, 1847, "was caught the first and
+a magnificent view of the great ocean; and by rare chance it was so calm
+that it shone like a great mirror."
+
+In detail, the following description of the march, as far as Los Angeles,
+mainly is from the McClintock History of Arizona.
+
+
+Organization of the Battalion
+
+Col. Stephen W. Kearny, commanding the First Dragoon regiment, then
+stationed at Fort Leavenworth, selected Capt. James Allen of the same
+regiment to be commander of the new organization, with volunteer rank as
+lieutenant-colonel. The orders read: "You will have the Mormons
+distinctly understand that I wish to have them as volunteers for twelve
+months; that they will be marched to California, receive pay and
+allowances during the above time, and at its expiration they will be
+discharged, and allowed to retain as their private property the guns and
+accouterments furnished them at this post."
+
+Captain Allen proceeded at once to Mount Pisgah, a Mormon camp 130 miles
+east of Council Bluffs, where, on June 26, 1846, he issued a recruiting
+circular in which was stated: "This gives an opportunity of sending a
+portion of your young and intelligent men to the ultimate destination
+of your whole people at the expense of the United States, and this
+advance party can thus pave the way and look out the land for their
+brethren to come after them."
+
+July 16, 1846, five companies were mustered into the service of the
+United States at Council Bluffs, Iowa Territory. The company officers had
+been elected by the recruits, including Captains Jefferson Hunt, Jesse B.
+Hunter, James Brown and Nelson Higgins. George P. Dykes was appointed
+adjutant and William McIntyre assistant surgeon.
+
+The march westward was started July 20, the route through St. Joseph and
+Leavenworth, where were found a number of companies of Missouri
+volunteers. Colonel Allen, who had secured the confidence and affection
+of his soldiers, had to be left, sick, at Leavenworth, where he died
+August 23.
+
+At Leavenworth full equipment was secured, including flintlock muskets,
+with a few caplock guns for sharpshooting and hunting. Pay also was
+drawn, the paymaster expressing surprise over the fact that every man
+could write his own name, "something that only one in three of the
+Missouri volunteers could accomplish." August 12 and 14 two divisions of
+the Battalion left Leavenworth.
+
+
+Cooke Succeeds to the Command
+
+The place of Colonel Allen was taken, provisionally, by First Lieut. A.
+J. Smith of the First Dragoons, who proved unpopular, animus probably
+starting through his military severity and the desire of the Battalion
+that Captain Hunt should succeed to the command. The first division
+arrived at Santa Fe October 9, and was received by Colonel Doniphan,
+commander of the post, with a salute of 100 guns. Colonel Doniphan was
+an old friend. He had been a lawyer and militia commander in Clay County,
+Missouri, when Joseph Smith was tried by court martial at Far West in
+1838 and had succeeded in changing a judgment of death passed by the mob.
+On the contrary, Col. Sterling Price, the brigade commander, was
+considered an active enemy of the Mormons.
+
+At Santa Fe, Capt. P. St. George Cooke, an officer of dragoons, succeeded
+to the command, as lieutenant-colonel, under appointment of General
+Kearny, who already had started westward. Capt. James Brown was ordered
+to take command of a party of about eighty men, together with about
+two-score women and children, and with them winter at Pueblo, on the
+headwaters of the Arkansas River. Fifty-five more men were sent to Pueblo
+from the Rio Grande when found unable to travel.
+
+Colonel Cooke made a rather discouraging report on the character of the
+command. He said:
+
+"It was enlisted too much by families; some were too old, some feeble,
+and some too young; it was embarrassed by too many women; it was
+undisciplined; it was much worn by travel on foot and marching from
+Nauvoo, Illinois; clothing was very scant; there was no money to pay them
+or clothing to issue; their mules were utterly broken down; the
+quartermaster department was without funds and its credit bad; animals
+scarce and inferior and deteriorating every hour for lack of forage. So
+every preparation must be pushed--hurried."
+
+
+The March Through the Southwest
+
+After the men had sent their pay checks back to their families, the
+expedition started from Santa Fe, 448 strong. It had rations for only
+sixty days. The commander wrote on November 19 that he was determined to
+take along his wagons, though the mules were nearly broken down at the
+outset, and added a delicate criticism of Fremont's self-centered
+character, "The only good mules were taken for the express for Fremont's
+mail, the General's order requiring the 21 best in, Santa Fe."
+
+Colonel Cooke soon proved an officer who would enforce discipline. He had
+secured an able quartermaster in Lieut. George Stoneman, First Dragoons.
+Lieutenant Smith took office as acting commissary. Three mounted dragoons
+were taken along, one a trumpeter. An additional mounted company of New
+Mexican volunteers, planned at Santa Fe, could not be raised.
+
+Before the command got out of the Rio Grande Valley, the condition of the
+commissary best is to be illustrated by the following extract from verses
+written by Levi Hancock:
+
+"We sometimes now lack for bread,
+Are less than quarter rations fed,
+And soon expect, for all of meat,
+Nought less than broke-down mules to eat."
+
+The trip over the Continental Divide was one of hardship, at places
+tracks for the wagons being made by marching files of men ahead, to tramp
+down ruts wherein the wheels might run. The command for 48 hours at one
+time was without water. From the top of the Divide the wagons had to be
+taken down by hand, with men behind with ropes, the horses driven below.
+
+Finally a more level country was reached, December 2, at the old, ruined
+ranch of San Bernardino, near the south-eastern corner of the present
+Arizona. The principal interest of the trip, till the Mexican forces at
+Tucson were encountered, then lay in an attack upon the marching column
+by a number of wild bulls in the San Pedro Valley. It had been assumed
+that Cooke would follow down the San Pedro to the Gila, but, on learning
+that the better and shorter route was by way of Tucson, he determined
+upon a more southerly course.
+
+
+Capture of the Pueblo of Tucson
+
+Tucson was garrisoned by about 200 Mexican soldiers, with two small brass
+fieldpieces, a concentration of the garrisons of Tubac, Santa Cruz and
+Fronteras. After some brief parley, the Mexican commander, Captain
+Comaduron, refusing to surrender, left the village, compelling most of
+its inhabitants to accompany him. No resistance whatever was made. When
+the Battalion marched in, the Colonel took pains to assure the populace
+that all would be treated with kindness. He sent the Mexican commander a
+courteous letter for the Governor of Sonora, Don Manuel Gandara, who was
+reported "disgusted and disaffected to the imbecile central government."
+Little food was found for the men, but several thousand bushels of grain
+had been left and were drawn upon. On December 17, the day after the
+arrival of the command, the Colonel and after fifty men "passed up a
+creek about five miles above Tucson toward a village (San Xavier), where
+they had seen a large church from the hills they had passed over." The
+Mexican commander reported that the Americans had taken advantage of him,
+in that they had entered the town on Sunday, while he and his command and
+most of the inhabitants were absent at San Xavier, attending mass.
+
+The Pima villages were reached four days later. By Cooke the Indians were
+called "friendly, guileless and singularly innocent and cheerful people."
+
+In view of the prosperity of the Pima and Maricopa, Colonel Cooke
+suggested that this would be a good place for the exiled Saints to
+locate, and a proposal to this effect was favorably received by the
+Indians. It is possible that his suggestion had something to do with the
+colonizing by the Mormons of the upper part of the nearby Salt River
+Valley in later years.
+
+About January I, 1847, to lighten the load of the half-starved mules, a
+barge was made by placing two wagon bodies on dry cottonwood logs and on
+this 2500 pounds of provisions and corn were launched on the Gila River.
+The improvised boat found too many sandbars, and most of its cargo had to
+be jettisoned, lost in a time when rations had been reduced to a few
+ounces a day per man. January 9 the Colorado River was reached, and the
+command and its impedimenta were ferried over on the same raft
+contrivance that had proven ineffective on the Gila.
+
+Colonel Cooke, in his narrative concerning the practicability of the
+route he had taken, said: "Undoubtedly the fine bottomland of the
+Colorado, if not of the Gila, will soon be settled; then all difficulty
+will be removed."
+
+The Battalion had still more woe in its passage across the desert of
+Southern California, where wells often had to be dug for water and where
+rations were at a minimum, until Warner's ranch was reached, where each
+man was given five pounds of beef a day, constituting almost the sole
+article of subsistence. Tyler, the Battalion historian, insists that five
+pounds is really a small allowance for a healthy laboring man, because
+"when taken alone it is not nearly equal to mush and milk," and he
+referred to an issuance to each of Fremont's men of ten pounds per day
+of fat beef.
+
+
+Congratulation on Its Achievement
+
+At the Mission of San Diego, January 30, 1847, the proud Battalion
+Commander issued the following memorable order:
+
+"The Lieutenant-Colonel commanding congratulates the Battalion on their
+safe arrival on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and the conclusion of
+their march of over 2000 miles.
+
+"History may be searched in vain for an equal march of infantry.
+Half of it has been through a wilderness, where nothing but savages
+and wild beasts are found, or deserts where, for want of water, there is
+no living creature. There, with almost hopeless labor we have dug
+wells, which the future traveler will enjoy. Without a guide who had
+traversed them, we have ventured into trackless tablelands where
+water was not found for several marches. With crowbar and pick, and
+ax in hand, we worked our way over mountains, which seemed to defy
+aught save the wild goat, and hewed a pass through a chasm of living
+rock more narrow than our wagons. To bring these first wagons to
+the Pacific, we have preserved the strength of our mules by herding
+them over large tracts, which you have laboriously guarded without
+loss. The garrisons of four presidios of Sonora concentrated within
+the walls of Tucson, gave us no pause. We drove them out with our
+artillery, but our intercourse with the citizens was unmarked by a
+single act of injustice. Thus, marching, half-naked and half-fed,
+and living upon wild animals, we have discovered and made a road of
+great value to our country.
+
+"Arrived at the first settlements of California, after a single day's
+rest, you cheerfully turned off from the route to this point of promised
+repose, to enter upon a campaign and meet, as we supposed, the approach
+of an enemy; and this, too, without even salt to season your
+sole subsistence of fresh meat.
+
+"Lieutenants A. J. Smith and George Stoneman of the First Dragoons have
+shared and given invaluable aid in all these labors.
+
+"Thus, volunteers, you have exhibited some high and essential
+qualities of veterans. But much remains undone. Soon you will
+turn your attention to the drill, to system and order, to forms also,
+which are all necessary to the soldier."
+
+
+Mapping the Way Through Arizona
+
+The only map of the route of the Mormon Battalion is one made by Colonel
+Cooke. Outlined on a map of Arizona, it is printed elsewhere in this
+work, insofar as it affects this State. The Colonel's map is hardly
+satisfactory, for only at a few points does he designate locations known
+today and his topography covers only the district within his vision as
+he marched.
+
+Judging from present information of the lay of the land, it is evident
+that LeRoux did not guide the Mormon Battalion on the easiest route.
+Possibly this was due to the fact that it was necessary to find water for
+each daily camp. The Rio Grande was left at a point 258 miles south of
+Santa Fe, not far from Mesilla. Thence the journey was generally toward
+the southwest, over a very rough country nearly all the way to the
+historic old rancho of San Bernardino, now on the international line
+about 25 miles east of the present city of Douglas. The rancho had been
+abandoned long before, because of the depredating Apaches. It was stated
+by Cooke that before it had been deserted, on it were 80,000 cattle,
+ranging as far as the Gila to the northward. The hacienda was enclosed by
+a wall, with two regular bastions, and there was a spring fifteen feet
+in diameter.
+
+The departure from San Bernardino was on December 4, 1846, the day's
+march to a camp in a pass eight miles to the westward, near a rocky basin
+of water and beneath a peak which Nature apparently had painted green,
+yellow and brown. This camp was noted as less than twenty miles from
+Fronteras, Mexico, and near a Coyotero trail into Mexico.
+
+On the 5th was a march of fourteen miles, to a large spring. This must
+have been almost south of Douglas or Agua Prieta (Blackwater).
+
+On the 6th the Battalion cut its way twelve miles through mesquite to a
+water hole in a fine grove of oak and walnut. It is suggested by Geo. H.
+Kelly that this was in Anavacachi Pass, twelve miles southwest of
+Douglas.
+
+On December 8 seventeen miles were made northwest, to a dry camp, with a
+view of the valley of the San Pedro. On the 9th, either ten or sixteen
+miles, for the narrative is indefinite, the San Pedro was crossed and
+there was camp six miles lower down on the western side. There is
+notation that the river was followed for 65 miles, one of the camps being
+at what was called the Canyon San Pedro, undoubtedly at The Narrows, just
+above Charleston.
+
+December 14 there was a turn westward and at a distance of nine miles was
+found a direct trail to Tucson. The day's march was twenty miles,
+probably terminating at about Pantano, in the Cienega Wash, though this
+is only indicated by the map or description.
+
+On the 15th was a twelve-mile march to a dry camp and on the 16th, after
+a sixteen-mile march, camp was made a half mile west of the pueblo of
+Tucson.
+
+From Tucson to the Pima villages on the Gila River, a distance of about
+73 miles, the way was across the desert, practically on the present line
+of the Southern Pacific railroad. Sixty-two miles were covered in 51
+hours. At the Gila there was junction with General Kearny's route.
+
+From the Pima villages westward there is mention of a dry "jornada"
+(journey) of about forty miles, caused by a great bend of the Gila River.
+Thus is indicated that the route was by way of Estrella Pass, south of
+the Sierra Estrella, on the present railroad line, and not by the
+alternative route, just south of and along the river and north of the
+mountains. Thereafter the marches averaged only ten miles a day, through
+much sand, as far as the Colorado, which was reached January 8, 1847.
+
+The Battalion's route across Arizona at only one point cut a spot of
+future Mormon settlement. This was in the San Pedro Valley, where the
+march of a couple of days was through a fertile section that was occupied
+in 1878 by a community of the faith from Lehi. This community, now known
+as St. David, is referred to elsewhere, at length.
+
+
+Manufactures of the Arizona Indians
+
+Colonel Cooke told that the Maricopas, near the junction of the Gila and
+the Salt, had piled on their house arbors "cotton in the pod for drying."
+As he passed in the latter days of the year, it is probable he saw merely
+the bolls that had been left unopened after frost had come, and that this
+was not the ordinary method for handling cotton. That considerable cotton
+was grown is evidenced by the fact that a part of Cooke's company
+purchased cotton blankets. Historian Tyler states that when he reached
+Salt Lake the most material feature of his clothing equipment was a Pima
+blanket, from this proceeding an inference that the Indians made cotton
+goods of lasting and wearing quality. In the northern part of Arizona,
+the Hopi also raised cotton and made cloth and blankets, down to the time
+of the coming of the white man, with his gaudy calicoes that undoubtedly
+were given prompt preference in the color-loving aboriginal eye.
+
+
+Cooke's Story of the March
+
+"The Conquest of New Mexico and California" is the title of an excellent
+and entertaining volume written in 1878 by Lieut.-Col. P. St. George
+Cooke, commander of the Battalion. It embraces much concerning the
+political features found or developed in both Territories and deals
+somewhat with the Kearny expedition and with the Doniphan campaign into
+Mexico that moved from Socorro two months after the Battalion started
+westward from the Rio Grande. Despite his eloquent acknowledgment of good
+service in the San Diego order, he had little to say in his narrative
+concerning the personnel of his command. In addition to the estimate of
+the command printed on a preceding page, he wrote, "The Battalion have
+never been drilled and though obedient, have little discipline; they
+exhibit great heedlessness and ignorance and some obstinacy." The
+ignorance undoubtedly was of military matters, for the men had rather
+better than the usual schooling of the rough period. At several points
+his diary gave such details as, "The men arrived completely worn down;
+they staggered as they marched, as they did yesterday. A great many of
+the men are wholly without shoes and use every expedient, such as rawhide
+moccasins and sandals and even wrapping the feet in pieces of woolen and
+cotton cloth."
+
+It is evident that to the Colonel's West Point ideas of discipline the
+conduct of his command was a source of irritation that eventually was
+overcome when he found he could depend upon the individuals as well as
+upon the companies. Several stories are told of his encounters in
+repartee with his soldiers, in which he did not always have the upper
+hand, despite his rank. Brusque in manner, he yet had a saving sense of
+humor that had to be drawn upon to carry off situations that would have
+been intolerable in his own command of dragoons.
+
+
+Tyler's Record of the Expedition
+
+The best of the narratives concerning the march of the Battalion is in a
+book printed in 1881 by Daniel Tyler, an amplification of a remarkable
+diary kept by him while a member of the organization. This book has an
+exceptionally important introduction, written by John Taylor, President
+of the Mormon Church, detailing at length the circumstances that led to
+the western migration of his people. He is especially graphic in his
+description of the riots of the summer of 1844, culminating in the
+assassination of Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum at Carthage,
+Illinois, on June 27th. Taylor was with the Prophet at the time and was
+badly wounded. There also is an interesting introductory chapter, written
+by Col. Thos. L. Kane, not a Mormon, dramatically dwelling upon the
+circumstances of the exodus from Nauvoo and the later dedication there
+of the beautiful temple, abandoned immediately thereafter. He wrote also
+of the Mormon camps that were then working westward, describing the high
+spirit and even cheerfulness in which the people were accepting exile
+from a grade of civilization that had made them prefer the wilds. Colonel
+Kane helped in the organization of the Battalion, in bringing influence
+to bear upon the President and in carrying to Fort Leavenworth the orders
+under which the then Colonel Kearny proceeded.
+
+
+Henry Standage's Personal Journal
+
+One of the treasures of the Arizona Historian's office is a copy of a
+journal of about 12,000 words kept by Henry Standage, covering his
+service as a member of the Mormon Battalion from July 19, 1846, to July
+19, 1847. The writer in his later years was a resident of Mesa, his home
+in Alma Ward. His manuscript descended to his grandsons, Orrin and
+Clarence Standage.
+
+Standage writes from the standpoint of the private soldier, with the
+soldier's usual little growl over conditions that affect his comfort;
+yet, throughout the narrative, there is evidence of strong integrity of
+purpose, of religious feeling and of sturdiness befitting a good soldier.
+
+There is pathos in the very start, how he departed from the Camp of
+Israel, near Council Bluffs, leaving his wife and mother in tears. He had
+been convinced by T. B. Platt of the necessity of obedience to the call
+of the President of the United States to enlist in the federal service.
+The narrative contradicts in no way the more extensive chronicle by
+Tyler. There is description of troubles that early beset the
+inexperienced soldiers, who appear to have been illy prepared to
+withstand the inclemency of the weather. There was sage dissertation
+concerning the efforts of an army surgeon to use calomel, though the men
+preferred the exercise of faith. Buffalo was declared the best meat he
+had ever eaten.
+
+On November 1 satisfaction was expressed concerning substitution to the
+place of Philemon C. Merrill. When the sick were sent to Pueblo, November
+10, Standage fervently wrote, "This does in reality make solemn times for
+us, so many divisions taking place. May the God of Heaven protect us
+all."
+
+[Illustration 1: MORMON BATTALION OFFICERS
+1--P. St. George Cooke, Lieut. Col. Commanding
+2--Lieut. George P. Dykes, Adjutant, succeeded by
+3--Lieut. Philemon C. Merrill, Adjutant]
+
+[Illustration 2: BATTALION MEMBERS AT GOLD DISCOVERY
+Above--Henry W. Bigler, Azariah Smith
+Below--Wm. J. Johnston, James S. Brown]
+
+[Illustration: BATTALION MEMBERS WHO RETURNED TO ARIZONA
+1--Sergt. Nathaniel V. Jones
+2--Wm. C. McClellan
+3--Sanford Porter
+4--Lot Smith
+5--John Hunt
+6--Wilson D. Pace
+7--Samuel Lewis
+8--Wesley Adair
+9--Lieut. James Pace
+10--Christopher Layton]
+
+San Bernardino, in Sonora, was reached December 2, being found in ruins,
+"though all around us a pleasant valley with good water and grass."
+Appreciation was expressed over the flavor of "a kind of root, baked,
+which the Spaniards called mas kurl" (mescal). Many of the cattle had
+Spanish brands on their hips, it being explained, "Indians had been so
+troublesome in times past that the Spaniards had to abandon the towns and
+vineyards, and cross the Cordillera Mountains, leaving their large flocks
+of cattle in the valley, thus making plenty of food for the Apalchas."
+
+In San Pedro valley were found "good horse feed and fish in abundance
+(salmon trout), large herds of wild cattle and plenty of antelope and
+some bear." The San Pedro River was especially noted as having "mill
+privileges in abundance." Here it was that Lieutenant Stoneman,
+accidentally shot himself in the hand. Two old deserted towns were
+passed.
+
+Standage tells that the Spanish soldiers had gone from Tucson when the
+Battalion arrived, but that, "we were kindly treated by the people, who
+brought flour, meal, tobacco and quinces to the camp for sale, and many
+of them gave such things to the soldiers. We camped about a half mile
+from the town. The Colonel suffered no private property to be touched,
+neither was it in the heart of any man to my knowledge to do so."
+
+Considering the strength of the Spanish garrison, Standage was led to
+exclaim that, "the Lord God of Israel would save his people, inasmuch as
+he knoweth the causes of our being here in the United States." Possibly
+it was unfair to say that no one but the Lord knew why the soldiers were
+there, and Tucson then was not in the United States.
+
+The journey to the Gila River was a hard one, but the chronicler was
+compensated by seeing "the long looked-for country of California," which
+it was not. The Pimas were found very friendly, bringing food, which they
+readily exchanged for such things as old shirts. Standage especially was
+impressed by the eating of a watermelon, for the day was Christmas.
+January 10, 1847, at the crossing of the Colorado, he was detailed to the
+gathering of mesquite beans, "a kind of sweet seed that grows on a tree
+resembling the honey locust, the mules and men being very fond of this.
+The brethren use this in various ways, some grinding it and mixing it in
+bread with the flour, others making pudding, while some roast it or eat
+it raw." "January 27, at 1 o'clock, we came in sight of the ocean, the
+great Pacific, which was a great sight to some, having never seen any
+portion of the briny deep before."
+
+
+California Towns and Soldier Experiences
+
+At San Diego, which was reached by Standage and a small detachment
+January 30, provisions were found very scarce, while prices were
+exorbitant. Sugar cost 50 cents a pound, so the soldier regaled himself
+with one-quarter of a pound and gathered some mustard greens to eke out
+his diet. For 26 days he had eaten almost nothing but beef. He purchased
+a little wheat from the Indians and ground it in a hand mill, to make
+some cakes, which were a treat.
+
+Late in April, at Los Angeles, there was a move to another camping
+ground, "as the Missouri volunteers (Error, New York volunteers--Author)
+had threatened to come down upon us. A few days later we were called up
+at night in order to load and fix bayonets, as Colonel Cooke had sent
+word that an attack might be expected from Colonel Fremont's men before
+day. They had been using all possible means to prejudice the Spaniards
+and Indians against us."
+
+Los Angeles made poor impression upon the soldiers in the Battalion. The
+inhabitants were called "degraded" and it was declared that there were
+almost as many grog shops and gambling dens as private houses. Reference
+is made to the roofs of reeds, covered with pitch from tar springs
+nearby. Incidentally, these tar "springs" in a later century led to
+development of the oil industry, that now is paramount in much of
+California, and have been found to contain fossil remains of wonderful
+sort.
+
+The Indians were said "to do all the labor, the Mexicans generally on
+horseback from morning till night. They are perhaps the greatest horsemen
+in the known world and very expert with lariat and lasso, but great
+gamblers."
+
+Food assuredly was not dear, for cattle sold for $5 a head. Many cattle
+were killed merely for hides and tallow and for the making of soap.
+
+About the most entertaining section of Standage's journal is that which
+chronicles his stay in Southern California, possibly because it gave him
+an opportunity to do something else beside tramping. There is much detail
+concerning re-enlistment, but there was general inclination to follow the
+advice of Father Pettegrew, who showed "the necessity of returning to the
+prophets of the Lord before going any further."
+
+Just before the muster-out, the soldiers were given an opportunity to
+witness a real Spanish bull fight, called "a scene of cruelty, savoring
+strongly of barbarity and indolence, though General Pico, an old Mexican
+commander, went into the ring several times on horseback and fought the
+bulls with a short spear."
+
+What with the hostility of the eastern volunteers, the downright enmity
+of Fremont's company and the alien habits of the Mexican population, the
+sober-minded members of the Battalion must have been compelled to keep
+their own society very largely while in the pueblo of Los Angeles, or, to
+give it its Spanish appellation, "El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de
+los Angeles de Porciuncula." Still, some of them tried to join in the
+diversions of the people of the country. On one occasion, according to
+Historian Eldridge, there was something of a quarrel between Captain Hunt
+and Alcalde Carrillo, who had given offense by observing that the
+American officer "danced like a bear." The Alcalde apologized very
+courteously, saying that bears were widely known as dancers, but the
+breach was not healed.
+
+
+Christopher Layton's Soldiering.
+
+Another history of the Battalion especially interesting from an Arizona
+standpoint, is contained in the life of Christopher Layton, issued in
+1911 and written by Layton's daughter, Mrs. Selina Layton Phillips, from
+data supplied by the Patriarch. The narrative is one of the best at hand
+in the way of literary preparation, though with frank statement that
+President Layton himself had all too little education for the
+accomplishment of such a task.
+
+Layton was a private soldier in Company C, under Capt. James Brown. There
+is nothing of especial novelty in the narrative, nor does there seem
+anything of prophecy when the Battalion passed through the Valley of the
+San Pedro in December, 1846, through a district to which Layton was to
+return, in 1883, as leader of a Mormon colony.
+
+Layton was one of the number that remained in California after the
+discharge of the Battalion, eventually rejoining the Saints, at Salt
+Lake, by way of his native land, England.
+
+In B. H. Roberts' very interesting little work on the Mormon Battalion is
+told this story of the later patriarch of the Gila settlement:
+
+"While Colonel Cooke was overseeing the ferrying of the Battalion across
+the Colorado River, Christopher Layton rode up to the river on a mule, to
+let it drink. Colonel Cooke said to him, 'Young man, I want you to ride
+across the river and carry a message for me to Captain Hunt.' It being
+natural for the men to obey the Colonel's order, he (Layton) tried to
+ride into the river, but he had gone but a few steps before his mule was
+going in all over. So Brother Layton stopped. The Colonel hallooed out,
+'Go on, young man; go on, young man.' But Brother Layton, on a moment's
+reflection, was satisfied that, if he attempted it, both he and his mule
+would stand a good chance to be drowned. The Colonel himself was
+satisfied of the same. So Brother Layton turned his mule and rode off,
+saying, as he came out, 'Colonel, I'll see you in hell before I will
+drown myself and mule in that river.' The Colonel looked at him a moment,
+and said to the bystanders, 'What is that man's name?' 'Christopher
+Layton, sir.' 'Well, he is a saucy fellow.'"
+
+That the Mormon Battalion did not always rigidly obey orders is shown in
+another story detailed by Roberts:
+
+"While the Battalion was at Santa Fe, Colonel Cooke ordered Lot Smith to
+guard a Mexican corral, and, having a company of United States cavalry
+camped by, he told Lot if the men came to steal the poles to bayonet
+them. The men came and surrounded the corral, and while Lot was guarding
+one side, they would hitch to a pole on the other and ride off with it.
+When the Colonel saw the poles were gone, he asked Lot why he did not
+obey orders and bayonet the thieves. Lot replied, 'If you expect me to
+bayonet United States troops for taking a pole on the enemy's ground to
+make a fire of, you mistake your man.' Lot expected to be punished, and
+he was placed under guard; but nothing further was done about it."
+
+
+Western Dash of the Kearny Dragoons
+
+Of collateral interest is the record of the Kearny expedition. The
+Colonel, raised to General at Santa Fe, left that point September 25,
+1846, with 300 dragoons, under Col. E.V. Sumner. The historians of the
+party were Lieut. W.H. Emory of the Corps of Topographical Engineers
+(later in charge of the Boundary Survey) and Capt. A. R. Johnston, the
+latter killed at San Pascual. Kearny was piloted by the noted Kit Carson,
+who was turned back as he was traveling eastward with dispatches from
+Fremont. The Gila route was taken, though there had to be a detour at the
+box canyon above the mouth of the San Pedro. Emory and Johnston wrote
+much of the friendly Pima. The former made prophecy, since sustained,
+concerning the development of the Salt and other river valleys, and the
+working of great copper deposits noted by him on the Gila, at Mineral
+Creek. The Colorado was crossed November 24. On December 6 the small
+command, weary with its march and illy provisioned, was attacked at San
+Pascual by Gen. Andres Pico. Two days of fighting found the Americans in
+sad plight, with eighteen killed and thirteen wounded. The enemy had been
+severely handled, but still barred the way to the nearby seacoast. Guide
+Kit Carson and Naval Lieutenant E.F. Beale managed to slip through to San
+Diego, there to summon help. It came to the beleaguered Americans
+December 10, a party of 180 well-armed sailors and marines, sent by
+Commodore Stockton, falling upon the rear of the Mexican host, which
+dispersed. The following day, Kearny entered San Diego, thence proceeding
+northward to help in the final overthrow of Mexican authority within Alta
+California.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Three
+
+The Battalion's Muster-Out
+
+
+Heading Eastward Toward "Home"
+
+Muster-out of the Battalion was at Los Angeles, July 16, 1847, just a
+year after enlistment, eight days before Brigham Young reached Great Salt
+Lake. The joyous ceremonial was rather marred by the fact that the
+muster-out officer was none other than Lieutenant Smith. There was an
+attempt to keep the entire Battalion in the service, both Kearny and
+Colonel Mason urging reenlistment. At the same time was an impolitic
+speech by Colonel Stevenson of the New York Volunteers. He said: "Your
+patriotism and obedience to your officers have done much toward
+removing the prejudices of the Government and the community at large, and
+I am satisfied that another year's service would place you on a level
+with other communities." This speech hardly helped in inclining the men
+toward extension of a service in which it was felt all that had been
+required had been delivered. Stevenson, a politician rather than a
+soldier, seemed to have a theory that the Mormons were seeking
+reenlistment of a second battalion or regiment, that California might be
+peopled by themselves. There was opposition to reenlistment among the
+elders, especially voiced by "Father" Pettegrew and by members Hyde and
+Tyler. Even promise that independent command would be given to Captain
+Hunt did not prove effective. Only one company was formed of men who were
+willing to remain in California for a while longer. In this new company
+were Henry G. Boyle, Henry Brizzee, Lot Smith and George Steele, all
+later residents of Arizona.
+
+Most of the soldiers of the Battalion made haste in preparation to rejoin
+the main body of the people of their faith. Assuredly they had little
+knowledge of what was happening in the Rocky Mountains. On the 20th of
+July, four days before the Mormon arrival in the Salt Lake Valley, most
+of the men had been organized to travel "home" after what Tyler called
+"both the ancient and the modern Israelitish custom, in companies of
+hundreds, fifties and tens." The leaders were Andrew Lytle and James
+Pace, with Sergeants Hyde, Tyler and Reddick N. Allred as captains of
+fifties.
+
+The first intention to travel via Cajon Pass was abandoned, and the
+companies took the northern route, via Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento
+River, to follow Fremont's trail across the Sierras. On the Sacramento
+they received the first news of their brethren since leaving Fort
+Leavenworth, a year before. They learned that the Saints were settling
+the Great Salt Lake Valley, and there also was news of the Brannan party
+at San Francisco.
+
+With full assent from the leaders, some of the brethren remained in the
+vicinity of Sutter's Fort, where work was plenty, and probably half of
+those who went on across the mountains returned on receipt of advices
+that came to them at Donner Lake, at the hands of Capt. James Brown, of
+the Pueblo detachment. The Church authorities instructed all who had
+insufficient means to remain in California and labor and to bring their
+earnings with them in the spring. Tyler, with his party, arrived in Salt
+Lake Valley October 16, to find his relatives living in a fort, which had
+all rooms opening into an enclosure, with port-holes for defense cut in
+the outer walls.
+
+The new company, with additional enlistment of six months, was placed
+under Capt. Daniel C. Davis, who had been in command of Company E. The
+company was marched to San Diego, arriving August 2. A detachment under
+Lieut. Ruel Barrus garrisoned San Luis Rey. In San Diego the men appeared
+to have had little military duty. They were allowed to work as mechanics,
+repaired wagons, did blacksmithing and erected a bakery. They became very
+popular with the townspeople, who wanted to retain them as permanent
+residents. It was noted that the Mormons had conquered prejudice and had
+effected a kind of industrial revolution in languid Alta California.
+
+[Illustration: BATTALION MEMBERS WHO RETURNED TO ARIZONA
+
+1--Samuel H. Rogers              6--Hyrum Judd
+2--Henry Standage                7--Samuel Thompson
+3--Edward Bunker                 8--Wm. A. Follett
+4--Henry W. Brizzee              9--Schuyler Hulett
+5--George Steele                10--David Pulsipher]
+
+[Illustration: BATTALION MEMBERS WHO RETURNED TO ARIZONA
+
+1--Rufus C. Allen
+2--John Steele
+3--Reuben Allred
+4--Elzada Ford Allred
+5--Wm. B. Maxwell
+6--Henry G. Boyle
+7--Zadok K. Judd]
+
+The enlistment term expired in January, but it was March, 1848, before
+the men were paid off and discharged. Most of the 78 members of the
+company went northward, but one party of 22, led by Henry G. Boyle,
+taking a wagon and 135 mules, started to Salt Lake by way of the Mojave
+desert, reaching its destination June 5. This would appear to have been a
+very important journey, the party probably being first with wagons to
+travel what later became known as the Mormon road.
+
+Following the very practical customs of their people, the members of the
+Battalion picked up in California a large quantity of seeds and grains
+for replanting in Utah, welcomed in establishing the marvelous
+agricultural community there developed. Lieut. James Pace brought in the
+club-head wheat, which proved especially suited to inter-mountain
+climatic conditions. From Pueblo other members brought the Taos wheat,
+which also proved valuable. Daniel Tyler brought the California pea.
+
+Although the Author has seen little mention of it, the Battalion
+membership took to Utah much valuable information concerning methods of
+irrigation, gained at Pueblo, in the Rio Grande Valley and in California.
+While most of the emigrants were of the farming class, their experience
+had been wholly in the Mississippi Valley or farther east, where the
+rains alone were depended upon to furnish the moisture necessary for
+crops.
+
+
+With the Pueblo Detachment
+
+Capt. James Brown would have led his band from Pueblo as soon as the
+snows had melted in the passes, but held back on receipt of information
+that the main body of Saints still was on the plains. As it was, he and
+his charge arrived at Salt Lake, July 29, 1847, five days after the
+advent of Brigham Young. Brown remained only a few days, setting out
+early in August for California, there to receive the pay of his command.
+The main body had been paid off at Los Angeles, July 15. On his westward
+way, Brown led a small company over the Carson route. In the Sierras,
+September 6, he met the first returning detachment of Battalion soldiers.
+To them he delivered letters from the First Presidency telling of the
+scarcity of food in the Salt Lake Valley. Sam Brannan, leader at San
+Francisco, had passed, going westward, only the day before, giving a
+gloomy account of the new home of the Saints. So about half the Battalion
+men turned back to Sutter's Fort, presumably with Brown. Brown returned
+from Los Angeles with the pay of his men, money sorely needed.
+
+The Pueblo detachment arrived in Salt Lake with about fifty individuals
+from Mississippi added to the 150 men and women who had been separated
+from the main body of the Battalion in New Mexico. Forty-six of the
+Battalion men accompanied President Young when he started back, August 8,
+for Winter Quarters, on the west side of the Missouri, five miles above
+Omaha, to help in piloting over the plains the main body of Saints.
+
+Captain Brown, according to a Brigham Young manuscript, was absent in
+California three months and seven days, returning late in November, 1847,
+bringing back with him the pay due the Pueblo contingent. Several stories
+were given concerning the amount. One was that it was about $5000, mainly
+in gold, and another that the amount was $10,000 in Mexican doubloons.
+
+The Pueblo detachment had been paid last in Santa Fe in May, 1846. The
+muster-out rolls were taken by Brown to Paymaster Rich of Colonel Mason's
+command in California. Pay included July 29, 1847, thirteen days after
+expiration of the term of enlistment.
+
+A part of the money, apparently considered as community property, was
+used early in 1848 in the purchase of a tract of land, about twenty miles
+square, at the mouth of Weber Canyon. The sum of $1950, cash, was paid to
+one Goodyear, who claimed to own a Mexican grant, but who afterward
+proved to have only a squatter right. The present city of Ogden is on
+this same tract.
+
+
+California Comments on the Battalion
+
+Very generally there has come down evidence that the men of the Battalion
+were of very decent sort. Colonel Mason, commanding the California
+military department, in June, 1847, made report to the Adjutant General
+of the Army:
+
+"Of the service of this Battalion, of their patience, subordination and
+general good conduct you have already heard; and I take great pleasure in
+adding that as a body of men they have religiously respected the rights
+and feelings of these conquered people, and not a syllable of complaint
+has reached my ears of a single insult offered or outrage done by a
+Mormon volunteer. So high an opinion did I entertain of the Battalion and
+of their especial fitness for the duties now performed by the garrisons
+in this country that I made strenuous efforts to engage their services
+for another year."
+
+With reference to the Mormon Battalion, Father Engelhardt, in his
+"Missions and Missionaries of California," wrote:
+
+"It is not likely that these Mormons, independent of United States and
+military regulations, would have wantonly destroyed any part of the
+church property or church fixtures during their several months' stay at
+San Luis Rey. Whatever some of the moral tenets held by them in those
+days, the Mormons, to all appearances, were a God-fearing body, who ...
+manifested some respect for the religious convictions and feelings of
+other men, notably of the Catholics. It is, therefore, highly improbable
+that they ... raved against ... religious emblems found in the missions
+of California. On the contrary, they appear to have let everything alone,
+even made repairs, and minded their own duties to their Creator, in that
+they practiced their religion openly whithersoever they went...."
+
+
+Leaders of the Battalion
+
+Colonel Cooke for a while was in command of the southern half of Alta
+California, incidentally coming into a part of the row created when
+Fremont laid claim upon the governorship of the Territory. In this his
+men were affected to a degree, for Fremont's father-in-law and patron,
+Senator Benton, was believed one of the bitterest foes of the Mormon
+people.
+
+Cooke resigned as lieutenant-colonel of volunteers, effective May 13,
+1847, he thus leaving the Battalion before the date of its discharge. He
+accompanied General Kearny on an 83-day ride eastward, returning to Fort
+Leaven worth August 22. With them was Fremont, arrested, charged with
+mutiny in refusing to acknowledge the authority of Kearny in California.
+He was found guilty, but a sentence of dismissal from the army was
+remitted by President Polk. Fremont immediately resigned from the
+service.
+
+Cooke, in 1857-8, led the cavalry of Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston's
+expedition to Utah and there is a memorandum that, when his regiment
+marched through the streets of Salt Lake City, the Colonel rode with
+uncovered head, "out of respect to the brave men of the Mormon Battalion
+he had commanded in their march to the Pacific." In the Civil War he was
+a brigadier-general, with brevet of major-general in 1865.
+
+Lieut. A. J. Smith, whose disciplinary ideas may have been too severe for
+a command that started with such small idea of discipline, nevertheless
+proved a brave and skillful officer. He rose in 1864 to be major-general
+of volunteers and was brevetted major-general of regulars for
+distinguished service in command of the Sixteenth army corps, under
+General Thomas, at the battle of Nashville.
+
+Lieut. George Stoneman in 1854 commanded a dragoon escort for Lieut. J.
+G. Parke, who laid out a railroad route across Arizona, from the Pima
+villages through Tucson, much on the line of the present Southern
+Pacific. He was a captain, commanding Fort Brown, Texas, at the
+outbreak of the Civil War, in which he rose to the rank of major-general
+of volunteers, with fame in the Virginia campaign as chief of cavalry of
+the Army of the Potomac, in which he later was a division and corps
+commander. In 1870 and 1871 he commanded the military department of
+Arizona, during the time of the Old Fort Grant massacre, and his name is
+still borne by the Stoneman Grade, above Silver King, a trail built by
+him to better command the Indian-infested mountains beyond. He was
+Democratic Governor of California from 1883 to 1887. A son, Geo. J.
+Stoneman, for years resided in Phoenix.
+
+Lieut. Edw. F. Beale, who helped save the Kearny expedition near San
+Diego was a member of a party that had been sent from San Diego to meet
+the dragoons. The following March, he and Carson carried dispatches east,
+taking the Gila route. In August, 1848, again in California, he was made
+the naval messenger to advise Washington of the discovery of gold in
+California. In 1857 he made a remarkable survey of the 35th parallel
+across Arizona, using camels, and he repeated the trip in 1859.
+
+The camels had been brought from Syria. They carried three times a mule
+load and were declared ideal for pioneer transportation uses. But Beale
+was alone in their praise and the camels eventually were turned loose on
+the plains. He was minister to Austria in 1878.
+
+Both adjutants of the Mormon Battalion later became permanent residents
+of Arizona. Geo. P. Dykes for years was a resident of Mesa, where he died
+in 1888, at the age of 83. Philemon C. Merrill, in 1881, was one of the
+custodians of the Utah stone, sent from Salt Lake, for insertion in the
+Washington Monument, in Washington. He and his family constituted the
+larger part of the D.W. Jones party that founded Lehi in March, 1877, and
+it was he, who, soon thereafter, led in the settlement of St. David in
+the San Pedro Valley, on the route of the Mormon Battalion march. He died
+at San Jose, in the Gila Valley, September 15, 1904.
+
+Pauline Weaver, the principal guide, was a Frenchman, who had been in the
+Southwest at least since 1832, when he visited the Pima villages and Casa
+Grande. In 1862, while trapping, he was one of the discoverers of the La
+Paz gold diggings. The following year he was with the Peeples party that
+found gold on Rich Hill, in central Arizona. Thereafter he was an army
+scout. He died at Camp Verde in 1866.
+
+Antoine LeRoux, the other guide named, was with the Whipple expedition
+across northern Arizona in 1853. His name is borne by LeRoux Springs,
+northwest of Flagstaff, and by LeRoux Wash, near Holbrook.
+
+
+Passing of the Battalion Membership
+
+No member of the Mormon Battalion now is living. The last to pass was
+Harley Mowrey, private Co. C, who died in his home in Vernal, Utah,
+October 21, 1920, at the age of 98. He was one of the men sent from New
+Mexico to Pueblo and who arrived at Salt Lake a few days after the
+Pioneers. On the way to Salt Lake he married the widow of another
+Battalion member, Martha Jane Sharp, who survives, as well as seven
+children, 41 grandchildren, 94 great-grandchildren and thirty of the
+latest generation. Mowrey and wife were members of the San Bernardino
+colony.
+
+
+A Memorial of Noble Conception
+
+On the Capitol grounds at Salt Lake soon is to arise a noble memorial of
+the service of the Mormon Battalion. The legislature of Utah has voted
+toward the purpose $100,000, contingent upon the contribution of a
+similar sum at large. A State Monument Commission has been created,
+headed by B.H. Roberts, and this organization has been extended to all
+parts of Utah, Idaho and Arizona.
+
+In the 1921 session of the Arizona Legislature was voted a contribution
+to the Battalion Monument Fund of $2500 this with expression of State
+pride in the achievement that meant so much to the Southwest and Pacific
+Coast.
+
+From nineteen designs submitted have been selected the plans of G. P.
+Riswold. A condensed description of the monument is contained in a report
+of the Commission:
+
+"The base is in triangular form, with concave sides and rounded corners.
+A bronze figure of a Battalion man is mounted upon the front corner.
+Flanking him on two sides of the triangle are: cut in high relief, on the
+left, the scene of the enlistment of the Battalion under the flag of the
+United States of America; on the right a scene of the march, where the
+men are assisting in pulling the wagons of their train up and over a
+precipitous ascent, while still others are ahead, widening a cut to
+permit the passage of the wagons between the out-jutting rocks. The
+background is a representation of mountains of the character through
+which the Battalion and its train passed on its journey to the Pacific.
+
+"Just below the peak, in the center and in front of it, is chiseled a
+beautiful head and upper part of a woman, symbolizing the 'Spirit of the
+West.' She personifies the impulsive power and motive force that
+sustained these Battalion men, and led them, as a vanguard of
+civilization, across the trackless plains and through the difficult
+defiles and passes of the mountains. The idea of the sculptor in the
+'Spirit of the West' is a magnificent conception and should dominate
+the whole monument.
+
+"The bronze figure of the Battalion man is dignified, strong and
+reverential. He excellently typifies that band of pioneer soldiers which
+broke a way through the rugged mountains and over trackless wastes.
+
+"Hovering over and above him, the beautiful female figure, with an air of
+solicitous care, guards him in his reverie. Her face stands out in full
+relief, the hair and diaphanous drapery waft back, mingling with the
+clouds, while the figure fades into dim outline in the massive peaks and
+mountains, seeming to pervade the air and the soil with her very soul."
+
+
+Battalion Men Who Became Arizonans
+
+Of the Battalion members, 33 are known to have become later residents of
+Arizona, with addition of one of the women who had accompanied the
+Battalion to Santa Fe and who had wintered at Pueblo. There is
+gratification over the fact that it has been found possible to secure
+photographs of nearly all the 33. Reproduction of these photographs
+accompanies this chapter. When this work was begun, only about ten
+Battalion members could be located as having been resident in this State.
+Some of those who came back to Arizona were notable in their day, for all
+of them now have made the last march of humanity.
+
+Jas. S. Brown, who helped find gold in California, was an early Indian
+missionary on the Muddy and in northeastern Arizona. Edward Bunker
+founded Bunkerville, a Virgin River settlement, and later died on the San
+Pedro, at St. David. Geo. P. Dykes, who was the first adjutant of the
+Battalion, did service for his Church in 1849 and 1850 in Great Britain
+and Denmark. Philemon C. Merrill, who succeeded Dykes as adjutant, was
+one of the most prominent of the pioneers of the San Pedro and Gila
+valleys. There is special mention, elsewhere, of Christopher Layton. In
+the same district, at Thatcher, lived and died Lieut. James Pace. Henry
+Standage was one of the first settlers of Alma Ward, near Mesa. Lot
+Smith, one of the vanguard in missionary work in northeastern Arizona and
+a leader in the settlement of the Little Colorado Valley, was slain by
+one of the Indians to whose service he had dedicated himself. Henry W.
+Brizzee was a leading pioneer of Mesa. Henry G. Boyle became the first
+president of the Southern States mission of his church, and was so
+impressed with the view he had of Arizona, in Battalion days, that, early
+in 1877, he sent into eastern Arizona a party of Arkansas immigrants.
+Adair, in southern Navajo County, was named after a Battalion member.
+
+A complete list of Arizona Battalion members follows:
+
+Wesley Adair, Co. C.--Showlow.
+Rufus C. Allen, Co. A.--Las Vegas.
+Reuben W. Allred, Co. A.--Pima.
+Mrs. Elzada Ford Allred--Accompanied husband.
+Henry G. Boyle, Co. C.--Pima.
+Henry W. Brizzee, Co. D.--Mesa.
+James S. Brown, Co. D.--Moen Copie.
+Edward Bunker, Co. E.--St. David.
+George P. Dykes, Co. D.--Mesa.
+Wm. A. Follett, Co. E.--Near Showlow.
+Schuyler Hulett, Co. A.--Phoenix.
+John Hunt--Snowflake--Accompanied his father, Capt. Jefferson Hunt.
+Marshall (Martial) Hunt, Co. A.--Snowflake.
+Wm. J. Johnston, Co. C.--Mesa..
+Nathaniel V. Jones, Co. D.--Las Vegas.
+Hyrum Judd, Co. E.--Sunset and Pima.
+Zadok Judd, Co. E.--Fredonia.
+Christopher Layton, Co. C.--Thatcher.
+Samuel Lewis, Co. C.--Thatcher.
+Wm. B. Maxwell, Co. D.--Springerville.
+Wm. C. McClellan, Co. E.--Sunset.
+Philemon C. Merrill, Co. B.--Pima.
+James Pace, Co. E.--Thatcher.
+Wilson D. Pace, Co. E.--Thatcher.
+Sanford Porter, Co. E.--Sunset.
+Wm. C. Prous (Prows), Co. B.--Mesa.
+David Pulsipher, Co. C.--Concho.
+Samuel H. Rogers, Co. B.--Snowflake.
+Henry Standage, Co. E.--Mesa.
+George E. Steele, Co. A.--Mesa.
+John Steele, Co. D.--Moen Copie.
+Lot Smith, Co. E.--Sunset and Tuba.
+Samuel Thompson, Co. C.--Mesa.
+
+[Illustration: THE MORMON BATTALION MONUMENT Proposed to be erected at a
+cost of $200,000 on the Utah State Capitol Grounds.]
+
+[Illustration: OLD SPANISH TOWN OF TUBAC. Map made 1754. Where a Mormon
+Colony located in the fall of 1851; 42 miles south of Tucson.]
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Four
+
+California's Mormon Pilgrims
+
+
+The Brooklyn Party at San Francisco
+
+The members of the Mormon Battalion were far from being the first of
+their faith to tread the golden sands of California. Somehow, in the
+divine ordering of things mundane, the Mormons generally were very near
+the van of Anglo-Saxon settlement of the States west of the Rockies. Thus
+it happened that on July 29, 1846, only three weeks after the American
+naval occupation of the harbor, there anchored inside the Golden Gate the
+good ship Brooklyn, that had brought from New York 238 passengers, mainly
+Saints, the first American contribution of material size to the
+population of the embarcadero of Yerba Buena, where now is the lower
+business section of the stately city of San Francisco.
+
+The Brooklyn, of 450 tons burden, had sailed from New York February 4,
+1846, the date happening to be the same as that on which began the exodus
+from Nauvoo westward. The voyage was an authorized expedition, counseled
+by President Brigham Young and his advisers in the early winter. At one
+time it was expected that thousands would take the water route to the
+west shore, on their way to the Promised Land. Elder Samuel Brannan was
+in charge of the first company, which mainly consisted of American farmer
+folk from the eastern and middle-western States. The ship had been
+chartered for $1200 a month and port charges. Fare had been set at $50
+for all above fourteen years and half-fare for children above five.
+Addition was made of $25 for provisions. The passengers embraced seventy
+men, 68 women and about 100 children. There was a freight of farming
+implements and tools, seeds, a printing press, many school books, etc.
+
+The voyage appears to have been even a pleasant one, though with a few
+notations of sickness, deaths and births and of trials that set a small
+number of the passengers aside from the Church. Around Cape Horn and as
+far as the Robinson Crusoe island of Juan Fernandez, off the Chilian
+coast, the seas were calm. Thereafter were two storms of serious sort,
+but without phase of disaster to the pilgrims. The next stop was at
+Honolulu, on the Hawaiian Islands, thence the course being fair for the
+Golden Gate.
+
+When Captain Richardson dropped his anchors in the cove of Yerba Buena it
+appears to have been the first time that the emigrants appreciated they
+had arrived at anything save a colony of old Mexico. But when a naval
+officer boarded the ship and advised the passengers they were in the
+United States, "there arose a hearty cheer," though Brannan has been
+quoted as hardly pleased over the sight of the Stars and Stripes.
+
+
+Beginnings of a Great City
+
+As written by Augusta Joyce Cocheron, one of the emigrants:
+
+"They crowded upon the deck, women and children, questioning husbands and
+fathers, and studied the picture before them--they would never see it
+just the same again--as the foggy curtains furled towards the azure
+ceiling. How it imprinted itself upon their minds! A long sandy beach
+strewn with hides and skeletons of slaughtered cattle, a few scrubby
+oaks, farther back low sand hills rising behind each other as a
+background to a few old shanties that leaned away from the wind, an old
+adobe barracks, a few donkeys plodding dejectedly along beneath towering
+bundles of wood, a few loungers stretched lazily upon the beach as though
+nothing could astonish them; and between the picture and the emigrants
+still loomed up here and there, at the first sight more distinctly, the
+black vessels--whaling ships and sloops of war--that was all, and that
+was Yerba Buena, now San Francisco, the landing place for the pilgrims of
+faith."
+
+In John P. Young's "Journalism in California" is recited:
+
+"It is not without significance that the awakening of Yerba Buena did not
+occur till the advent of the printing press. From the day when Leese
+built his store in 1836 till the arrival of the Mormon colony on July 31,
+1846, the village retained all the peculiarities of a poverty-stricken
+settlement of the Spanish-American type. From that time forward changes
+began to occur indicative of advancement and it is impossible to
+disassociate them from the fact that a part of the Brooklyn's cargo was a
+press and a font of type, and that the 238 colonists aboard that vessel
+and others who found their way to the little town, brought with them
+books--more, one careful writer tells us, than could be found at the time
+in all the rest of the Territory put together."
+
+Brannan and his California Star had a part in the very naming of San
+Francisco. This occurred January 30, 1847, rather hurried by discovery of
+the fact that a rival settlement on the upper bay proposed to take the
+name. So there was formal announcement in the Star that, from that date
+forward, there would be abandonment of the name Yerba Buena, as local and
+appertaining only to the cove, and adoption of the name of San Francisco.
+This announcement was signed by the Alcalde, Lieut. Washington A.
+Bartlett, who had been detached by Capt. J. B. Montgomery from the
+man-of-war Portsmouth on September 15, 1846, and who rejoined his ship
+the following February.
+
+One of the Brooklyn's passengers in later years became a leader in the
+settlement of Mesa, Arizona. He was Geo. W. Sirrine, a millwright, whose
+history has been preserved by a son, Warren L. Sirrine of Mesa. The elder
+Sirrine was married on the ship, of which and its voyage he left many
+interesting tales, one being of a drift to the southward on beating
+around Cape Horn, till icebergs loomed and the men had to be detailed to
+the task of beating the rigging with clubs to rid it of ice. When danger
+threatened there was resort to prayer, but work soon followed as the
+passengers bore a hand with the crew.
+
+Sirrine, who had had police experience in the East, was of large
+assistance to Brannan in San Francisco, where the rougher element for a
+time seized control, taking property at will and shooting down all who
+might disagree with their sway. It was he who arrested Jack Powers,
+leader of the outlaws, in a meeting that was being addressed by Brannan,
+and who helped in the provision of evidence under which the naval
+authorities eliminated over fifty of the desperados, some of them
+shipping on the war vessels in port. Some of the Mormons still had a part
+of their passage money unpaid and these promptly proceeded to find
+employment to satisfy their debt. The pilgrims' loyalty appears to have
+been of the highest. They had purchased arms in Honolulu and had had some
+drill on the passage thence. At least on one occasion, they rallied in
+San Francisco when alarm sounded that hostile Mexicans might attack.
+
+According to Eldridge, historian of San Francisco:
+
+"The landing of the Mormons more than doubled the population of Yerba
+Buena. They camped for a time on the beach and the vacant lots, then some
+went to the Marin forests to work as lumbermen, some were housed in the
+old Mission buildings and others in Richardson's Casa Grande (big house)
+on Dupont Street. They were honest and industrious people and all sought
+work wherever they could find it."
+
+
+Brannan's Hope of Pacific Empire
+
+A party of twenty pioneers was sent over to the San Joaquin Valley, to
+found the settlement of New Hope, or Stanislaus City, on the lower
+Stanislaus River, but the greater number for a while remained on the bay,
+making San Francisco, according to Bancroft, "for a time very largely a
+Mormon town. All bear witness to the orderly and moral conduct of the
+Saints, both on land and sea. They were honest and industrious citizens,
+even if clannish and peculiar." There was some complaint against Brannan,
+charged with working the Church membership for his own personal benefit.
+
+New Hope had development that comprised a log house, a sawmill and the
+cultivation of eighty acres of land. It was abandoned in the fall, after
+word had been received that the main body of the Saints, traveling
+overland, would settle in the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Brannan
+pushed with vigor his idea that the proper location would be in
+California. He started eastward to present this argument and met the
+western migration at Green River in July, and unsuccessfully argued with
+Brigham Young, returning with the vanguard as far as Salt Lake. His
+return to San Francisco was in September, on his way there being
+encounter with several parties from the Mormon Battalion, to them Brannan
+communicating rather gloomy ideas concerning the new site of Zion.
+
+It is one of the many remarkable evidences of the strength of the Mormon
+religious spirit that only 45 adults of the Brooklyn party, with their
+children, remained in California, even after the discovery of gold. The
+others made their way across the Sierra Nevadas and the deserts, to join
+their people in the intermountain valley. A few were cut off from the
+Church. These included Brannan, who gathered large wealth, but who died,
+poor, in Mexico, in 1889.
+
+There might be speculation over what would have been the fate of the
+Mormon Church had Brannan's idea prevailed and the tide of the Nauvoo
+exodus continued to California. Probably the individual pilgrims thereby
+might have amassed worldly wealth. Possibly there might have been
+established in the California valleys even richer Mormon settlements than
+those that now dot the map of the intermountain region. But that such a
+course would have been relatively disruptive of the basic plans of the
+leaders there can be no doubt, and it is also without doubt that under a
+condition of greater material wealth there would have been diminished
+spiritual interest.
+
+Possibly even better was the grasp upon the people shown in Utah at the
+time of the passage of the California emigrants, in trains of hypnotized
+groups all crazed by lust for the gold assumed to be in California for
+the gathering. The Mormons sold them provisions and helped them on their
+way, yet added few to their numbers.
+
+In after years, President Lorenzo Snow, referring to the Brannan effort,
+stated his belief that it would have been nothing short of disastrous to
+the Church had the people gone to California before they had become
+grounded in the faith. They needed just the experiences they had had in
+the valley of Salt Lake, where home-making was the predominant thought
+and where wealth later came on a more permanent basis.
+
+
+Present at the Discovery of Gold
+
+By a remarkable freak of fortune, about forty of the members of the
+Mormon Battalion discharged at Los Angeles, were on hand at the time of
+the discovery of gold in California. Divided into companies, they had
+made their way northward, expecting to pass the Sierras before the
+coming of snow. They found work at Sutter's Fort and nearby in the
+building of a sawmill and a grist-mill and six of them (out of nine
+employees) actually participated in the historic picking up of chunks of
+gold from the tailrace they had dug under the direction of J. W.
+Marshall. Sutter in after years wrote: "The Mormons did not leave my mill
+unfinished, but they got the gold fever like everybody else." They mined
+especially on what, to this day, is known as Mormon Island, on the
+American River, and undoubtedly the wealth they later took across the
+mountains did much toward laying a substantial foundation for the Zion
+established in the wilderness.
+
+Henry W. Bigler, of the gold discovery party, kept a careful journal of
+his California experiences, a journal from which Bancroft makes many
+excerpts. An odd error is in the indexing of the Bancroft volumes on
+California, Henry W. Bigler being confused with John Bigler. The latter
+was governor of California in 1852-55. A truckling California legislature
+unsuccessfully tried to fasten his name upon Lake Tahoe. But the Mormon
+pioneer turned his back upon the golden sands after only a few months of
+digging, and later, for years, was connected with the Mormon temple at
+St. George, Utah.
+
+January 24, 1898, four of the six returned to San Francisco, guests of
+the State of California in its celebration of the fiftieth anniversary of
+the discovery of gold. They were Henry W. Bigler, Jas. S. Brown, Wm. J.
+Johnston and Azariah Smith. A group photograph, then taken, is reproduced
+in this volume. The others of the Mormon gold discoverers, Alexander
+Stephens and James Barger, had died before that date.
+
+
+Looking Toward Southern California
+
+All through the Church administration led by Brigham Young there was
+evidence of well-defined intention to spread the Church influence
+southward into Mexico and, possibly tracking back the steps of the
+Nephites and Lamanites, to work even into South America. There seemed an
+attraction in the enormous agricultural possibilities of Southern
+California. The long-headed Church President, figuring the commercial and
+agricultural advantages that lay in the Southwest, practically paved the
+way for the connection that since has come by rail with Los Angeles. It
+naturally resulted that the old Spanish trail that had been traversed by
+Dominguez and Escalante in 1776 was extended on down the Virgin River
+toward the southwest and soon became known as the Mormon Road. Over this
+road there was much travel. It was taken by emigrants bound from the East
+for California and proved the safest at all seasons of the year. It was
+used by the Mormons in restocking their herds and in securing supplies
+and for a while there was belief that the Colorado River could be
+utilized as a means of connecting steamboat transportation with the
+wagons that should haul from Callville, 350 miles from Salt Lake.
+
+In 1851, nearly four years after the settlement at Salt Lake, President
+Young made suggestion that a company be organized, of possibly a score of
+families, to settle below Cajon Pass and cultivate the grape, olive,
+sugar cane and cotton and to found a station on a proposed Pacific mail
+route. There was expectation that the settlement later would be a
+gathering place for the Saints who might come from the islands of the
+Pacific, and even from Europe. The idea proved immensely popular, the
+suggestion having come after a typical Salt Lake winter, and the
+pilgrimage embraced about 500 individuals. President Young, at the time
+of their leaving, March 24, said he "was sick at the sight of so many
+Saints running to California, chiefly after the gods of this earth" and
+he expressed himself unable to address them. Arrival at San Bernardino
+was in June.
+
+The Author has been fortunate in securing personal testimony from a
+member of this migration, Collins R. Hakes, who later was President of
+the Maricopa Stake at Mesa, and, later, head of the Bluewater settlement
+in New Mexico. The hegira was led by Amasa M. Lyman and Chas. C. Rich,
+prominent Mormon pioneers.
+
+A short distance below Cajon Pass, Lyman and Rich in September purchased
+the Lugo ranch of nine square leagues, including an abandoned mission.
+They agreed to pay $77,500 in deferred payments, though the total sum
+rose eventually to $140,000. Even at that, this must be accounted a very
+reasonable price for nearly thirty square miles of land in the present
+wonderful valley of San Bernardino.
+
+
+Forced From the Southland
+
+With those of the Carson Valley, the California brethren mainly returned
+to Utah, late in 1857, or early in 1858, at the time of the Johnston
+invasion. Mr. Hakes gave additional details. On September 11, 1857,
+occurred the Mountain Meadows massacre in the southwest corner of Utah.
+This outrage, by a band of outlaws, emphatically discountenanced by the
+Church authorities and repugnant to Church doctrines, which denounce
+useless shedding of blood, was promptly charged, on the Pacific and,
+indeed, all over the Union, as something for which the Mormon
+organization itself was responsible. So it happened that, in December,
+1857, J. Riley Morse, of the colony, rode southward post haste from
+Sacramento with the news that 200 mountain vigilantes were on their way
+to run the Mormons out of California. Not wishing to fight and not
+wishing to subject their families to abuse, about 400 of the San
+Bernardino settlers, within a few weeks, started for southern Utah,
+leaving only about twenty families. The news of this departure went to
+the Californians and they returned to their homes without completing
+their projected purpose. Many Church and coast references tell of the
+"recall" of the San Bernardino settlers, but Hakes' story appears ample
+in furnishing a reason for the departure. Many of these San Bernardino
+pioneers later came into Arizona. Those who remained prospered, and many
+of the families still are represented by descendants now in the
+Californian city. The settlement is believed to have been the first
+agricultural colony founded by persons of Anglo-Saxon descent in Southern
+California.
+
+
+How Sirrine Saved the Gold
+
+Geo. W. Sirrine, later of Mesa, had an important part in the details of
+the San Bernardino ranch purchase. Amasa M. Lyman and Chas. C. Rich went
+to San Francisco for the money needed for the first payment. They
+selected Sirrine to be their money carrier, entrusting him with $16,000,
+much of it in gold, the money presumably secured through Brannan. Sirrine
+took ship southward for San Pedro or Wilmington, carrying a carpenter
+chest in which the money was concealed in a pair of rubber boots, which
+he threw on the deck, with apparent carelessness, while his effects were
+searched by a couple of very rough characters. Delivery of the money was
+made without further incident of note. Sirrine helped survey the San
+Bernardino townsite, built a grist mill and operated it, logged at Bear
+Lake and freighted on the Mormon road. Charles Crismon, a skillful
+miller, also a central Arizona pioneer, for a while was associated with
+him. Crismon also built a sawmill in nearby mountains. Sirrine spent his
+San Bernardino earnings, about $10,000, in attempted development of a
+seam of coal on Point Loma, near San Diego, sinking a shaft 183 feet
+deep. He left California in 1858, taking with him to Salt Lake a
+wagonload of honey. In a biography of Charles Crismon, Jr., is found a
+claim that the elder Crismon took the first bees to Utah, from San
+Bernardino, in 1863. This may have added importance in view of the fact
+that Utah now is known as the Beehive State.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Five
+
+The State of Deseret
+
+
+A Vast Intermountain Commonwealth
+
+Probably unknown to a majority of Arizonans is the fact that the area of
+this State once was included within the State of Deseret, the domain the
+early Mormons laid out for themselves in the western wilds. The State of
+Deseret was a natural sort of entity, with a governor, with courts, peace
+officers and a militia. It was a great dream, yet a dream that had being
+and substance for a material stretch of time. Undoubtedly its conception
+was with Brigham Young, whose prophetic vision pictured the day when,
+under Mormon auspices, there would be development of the entire enormous
+basin of the Colorado River, with seaports on the Pacific. The name was
+not based upon the word "desert." It is a Book of Mormon designation for
+"honey bee."
+
+This State of Deseret was a strictly Mormon institution, headed by the
+Church authorities and with the bishops of all the wards ex-officio
+magistrates. At the same time, there should be understanding that in
+nowise was it antagonistic to the government of the United States. It was
+a grand plan, under which there was hope that, with a population at the
+time of about 15,000, there might be admission of the intermountain
+region into the union of States.
+
+The movement for the new State started with a call issued in 1849,
+addressed to all citizens of that portion of California lying east of the
+Sierra Nevada Mountains. There was a convention in March, probably
+attended by very few outside the Church, despite the broadness of the
+plan. In the preamble of the constitution adopted there was recitation
+that Congress had failed to provide any civil government, so necessary
+for the peace, security and prosperity of society, that "all political
+power is inherent in the people, and governments instituted for their
+protection, security and benefit should emanate from the same."
+Therefore, there was recommendation of a constitution until the Congress
+should provide other government and admit the new State into the Union.
+There was expression of gratitude to the Supreme Being for blessings
+enjoyed and submission to the national government freely was
+acknowledged.
+
+
+Boundary Lines Established
+
+Deseret was to have boundaries as follows:
+
+Commencing at the 33d parallel of north latitude, where it crosses the
+108th deg. of longitude west of Greenwich; thence running south and west
+to the boundary of Mexico; thence west to and down the main channel of
+the Gila River (or the northern line of Mexico), and on the northern
+boundary of Lower California to the Pacific Ocean; thence along the coast
+northwesterly to 118 degrees, 30 minutes of west longitude; thence north
+to where said line intersects the dividing ridge of the Sierra Nevada
+Mountains; thence north along the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains
+to the dividing range of mountains that separate the waters flowing into
+the Columbia from the waters running into the Great Basin; thence
+easterly along the dividing range of mountains that separate said waters
+flowing into the Columbia River on the north, from the waters flowing
+into the Great Basin on the south, to the summit of the Wind River chain
+of mountains; thence southeast and south by the dividing range of
+mountains that separate the waters flowing into the Gulf of Mexico from
+the waters flowing into the Gulf of California, to the place of
+beginning, as set forth in a map drawn by Charles Preuss, and published
+by order of the Senate of the United States in 1848.
+
+This description needs some explanation. The point of beginning, as set
+forth, was at the headwaters of the Gila River near the Mexican line,
+which then, and until the Gadsden Purchase in 1854, followed down the
+Gila River to the Colorado. At that time the boundary between Upper and
+Lower California had been established to the point below San Diego, which
+thus became included within the territory claimed. Here, naturally, there
+was inclusion of practically all Southern California to a point near
+Santa Barbara. Thence the line ran northward and inland to the summit of
+the Sierra Nevadas, not far from Mt. Whitney. It followed the Sierra
+Nevadas to the northwestward, well within the present California line, up
+into northwestern Nevada, thence eastward through southern Idaho and
+Wyoming to about South Pass, where the eastern line was taken up
+southward, along the summit of the Rockies to the point of beginning. So,
+there was general inclusion of that part of California lying east of the
+Sierras, of all southern California, all Nevada and Utah, the southern
+portions of Oregon and Idaho, southwestern Wyoming, western Colorado, not
+reaching as far as Denver, western New Mexico and all Arizona north of
+the Gila.
+
+There can be no doubt that the region embraced, probably too large for a
+State under modern conditions, at that time was as logical a division as
+could have been made, considering the semi-arid climatic conditions,
+natural boundaries, generally by great mountain ranges, a single
+watershed, that of the Colorado River, and, in addition to all these, the
+highway outlet to the Pacific Ocean, to the southwest, through a country
+where the mountains broke away, along the course of the Colorado, even
+then demonstrated the most feasible route from Great Salt Lake City to
+the ocean.
+
+
+Segregation of the Western Territories
+
+At no time was there more than assumption by this central Salt Lake
+government of authority over any part of the area of the State of
+Deseret, save within the central Utah district, where the settlers, less
+than two years established, were striving to carve out homes in what was
+to be the nucleus of this commonwealth of wondrous proportions.
+
+There was nothing very unusual about the constitution. It was along the
+ordinary line of such documents, though the justices of the Supreme Court
+at first were chosen by the Legislature. Brigham Young was the first
+Governor, Willard Richards was Secretary and Heber C. Kimball Chief
+Justice.
+
+[Illustration: OUTLINE OF THE STATE OF DESERET]
+
+The first Legislature met July 2, 1849, at Great Salt Lake City and
+supported an application to Congress for the organization of a
+territorial government. The boundaries of the Territory of Deseret were
+somewhat changed from the original. The northern line was to be the
+southern line of Oregon and to the east there was to be inclusion of
+most of the present State of Colorado. Another memorial, soon thereafter,
+asked admission as a full State and still another plan, later proposed,
+was that Deseret and California be admitted as a single State, with power
+to separate thereafter. This suggestion was not well received in
+California and had short life.
+
+September 9, 1850, President Millard Fillmore signed a bill creating the
+Territory of Utah, to be bounded on the west by California, on the north
+by Oregon, on the east by the summit of the Rocky Mountains and on the
+south by the 37th parallel of north latitude. South of this parallel
+there had been recognition of New Mexico, which included the present
+Arizona. Thus was denial of the dream of an empire state that should
+embrace the entire inter-mountain region.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Six
+
+_Early Roads and Travelers_
+
+
+Old Spanish Trail Through Utah
+
+There can be little more than speculation concerning the extent of the
+use of the old Spanish Trail, through southern Utah, by the Spaniards. It
+is known, however, that considerable travel passed over it between Santa
+Fe and the California missions and settlements. In winter there was the
+disadvantage of snow in the Rockies and in summer were the aridity and
+heat of the Mohave desert. In Utah was danger from the Utes and farther
+westward from the Paiutes, but expeditions went well armed and exercised
+incessant watchfulness.
+
+The much more direct route across Arizona on the 35th parallel was used
+by few Spaniards, though assuredly easier than that northward around the
+Canyon of the Colorado River. This direct route was traversed in 1598 by
+Juan de Onate, New Mexico's first Spanish governor, and, in 1776, Father
+Garces went from the Colorado eastward to the Hopi villages. There was
+travel over what became known as the "Road of the Bishop" from Santa Fe
+to the Zuni and Hopi towns, but not beyond. Possibly the preference for
+the San Juan-Virgin route lay in the fact that it had practicable river
+fords.
+
+This old Spanish Trail from Santa Fe to Los Angeles, undoubtedly was over
+a succession of aboriginal highways. The first Europeans to follow it
+were the Franciscan friars Escalante and Dominguez, in 1776. They took a
+route running northwest from Taos, New Mexico, through the San Juan
+country into Utah as far as Utah Lake, not reaching Great Salt Lake, and
+thence to the southwest through the Sevier Valley to the upper waters of
+the Virgin hoping to work through to California. They had an intelligent
+idea concerning the extent of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado and knew
+there could be no crossing for several hundred miles. After traveling
+down the Santa Clara and Virgin to about where the Arizona line now is,
+they turned eastward again, probably because of lack of supplies and fear
+of the desert. Their travel eastward was not far from the 37th parallel
+on either side and their Indian guides finally led them, by way of the
+mouth of the Paria, to the Ute ford of the Colorado, now known as the
+Crossing of the Fathers. Thence, crossing the river November 8, 1776,
+they made their way to the Hopi villages and back to the Rio Grande,
+finishing one of the most notable exploring trips ever known in the west.
+It is interesting to consider how, nearly a century later, the
+"Pathfinder," John C. Fremont, thought himself on a new line of discovery
+when he took much the same road westward through the passes of the
+Rockies.
+
+This Spanish Trail is outlined on a fur-trade map in the Bancroft
+Library, covering the period from 1807 to 1843. No road is marked across
+the present area of Arizona. The Spanish Trail seems to have been
+considered as the western extension of the Santa Fe Trail.
+
+The famous old traveler, Jedediah Smith, in 1826 and 1827, journeyed by
+the Sevier and Virgin River route to the Colorado River, though he
+appears to have made his own way, paralleling the aboriginal highway. In
+August of 1827, a number of his party were killed by Mohave Indians on
+the Colorado River.
+
+
+Creation of the Mormon Road
+
+The discovery of gold in California gave very great added importance to
+this southern Utah route. When the Washoe passes were closed by snow,
+California travel by the plains route necessarily was diverted, either
+around by Oregon or southward through the Virgin River section. The
+latter route appears to have been safe enough in winter, save for
+occasional attacks by Indians, who were bent more upon plunder than upon
+murder. Occasionally, parties sought a shorter cut to the westward and
+suffered disaster in the sands of the Amargosa desert or of Death Valley.
+Sometimes such men as Jacob Hamblin were detailed to act as guides, but
+this seemed to be more needed with respect to dealings with the Indians
+than to show the road, as the highway was a plain one through to San
+Bernardino and San Gabriel. Of summers, undoubtedly the travel was
+much lessened, as the goldseekers chose the much more direct and
+better-watered routes passing either north or south of Lake Tahoe, by
+Donner Lake and Emigrant Gap or by the Placerville grade.
+
+The western end of the southern Utah-Nevada trail, after the
+establishment of the San Bernardino colony, soon became known as the
+Mormon road, a name preserved.
+
+Mail service was known over the old Spanish or Mormon Trail, down the
+Virgin and to Los Angeles, at different times between 1850 and 1861. This
+service seems to have been as an alternative when the passes of the
+Sierra Nevadas were closed. The best evidence at hand concerning this
+route is contained within a claim made by one Chorpending, for
+compensation from the United States for mules and equipment stolen by
+Indians in 1854-1856. John Hunt, later of Snowflake, carried mail on the
+route in 1856 and 1857. There must be assumption that stage stations were
+maintained on the Muddy and at Vegas.
+
+With the Lyman and Rich expedition, in 1851, one of the wagons bore
+Apostle Parley P. Pratt who, accompanied by Rufus C. Allen, was starting
+upon a mission to the southwest coast of South America. On May 13, there
+was note of encampment at "a large spring, usually called Las Vegas,"
+after having traveled 200 miles through worthless desert and between
+mountains of naked rock.
+
+
+Mormon Settlement at Tubac
+
+To Commissioner John R. Bartlett, of the International Boundary Survey,
+the Author is indebted for a memorandum covering what clearly was the
+first Mormon settlement within the present confines of Arizona. It was at
+the old Spanish pueblo of Tubac, in the Santa Cruz valley, about forty
+miles south of Tucson. Both places then (in July, 1852), still were in
+Mexico, the time being two years before perfecting the Gadsden Purchase.
+
+Tubac, according to the Commissioner, was "a collection of dilapidated
+buildings and huts, about half tenantless, and an equally ruinous
+church." He called it "a God-forsaken place," but gave some interesting
+history. After a century and a half of occupation, usually with a
+population of about 400, it had been abandoned a year before the
+Commissioner's arrival, but had been repopulated by possibly 100
+individuals. There was irrigation from the Santa Cruz, but of uncertain
+sort, and it was this very uncertainty that lost to Arizona a community
+of settlers of industry surely rare in that locality. Bartlett's
+narrative recites:
+
+The preceding fall (of 1851), after the place has been again occupied, a
+party of Mormons, in passing through on their way to California, was
+induced to stop there by the representations of the Mexican comandante.
+He offered them lands in the rich valley, where acequias (irrigation
+ditches) were already dug, if they would remain and cultivate it;
+assuring them that they would find a ready market for all the corn, wheat
+and vegetables they could raise, from the troops and from passing
+emigrants. The offer was so good and the prospects were so flattering
+that they consented to remain. They, therefore, set to work, plowed and
+sowed their lands, in which they expended all their means, anticipating
+an abundant harvest. But the spring and summer came without rain: the
+river dried up; their fields could not be irrigated; and their labor,
+time and money was lost. They abandoned the place, and, though reduced to
+the greatest extremities, succeeded in reaching Santa Isabel in
+California, where we fell in with them.
+
+The Santa Isabel meeting referred to had taken place in the previous May,
+1852. Santa Isabel was an old vista of San Diego Mission, about forty
+miles northeast of San Diego and on the road from that port to Fort Yuma.
+In the Commissioner's party, eastbound, was the noted scout, Antoine
+LeRoux, who had been one of the guides of the Mormon Battalion westward,
+in 1846. Bartlett wrote:
+
+"LeRoux had been sent to the settlement at San Bernardino, to purchase a
+vehicle from newly-arrived Mormon immigrants and to return with it to
+Santa Isabel. When the wagon came ... it was driven by its owner, named
+Smithson. After paying him, I invited him to remain with us over night,
+as he had had a fatiguing day's journey. We were very much amused during
+the evening in listening to the history of our Mormon friend, who also
+enlightened us with a lecture on the peculiar doctrines of his sect. He
+seemed a harmless, though zealous man, ardent in his religious belief and
+was, I should think, a fair specimen of his fraternity. His people had
+lately purchased the extensive haciendas and buildings at San Bernardino,
+covering several miles square, for $70,000, one-half of which amount
+they had paid in cash. This is one of the richest agricultural districts
+in the State and is said to have been a great bargain."
+
+Bartlett's narrative, while interesting, does not inform concerning the
+identity of the Mormons at Tubac. Including Smithson, doubtless they were
+swallowed within the San Bernardino settlement. Just where the Tubac
+settlers came from is not clear. There seems probability that they were
+from one of the southern States, started directly for San Bernardino,
+instead of via Salt Lake, in the same manner that an Arkansas expedition
+went directly to the Little Colorado settlements in later years.
+
+Tubac dates back to about 1752. Possibly not pertinent to the subject of
+this work, yet valuable, is a map of Tubac, herewith reproduced, drawn
+about 1760 by Jose de Urrutia. This map lately was found in the British
+Museum at London by Godfrey Sykes, of the Desert Laboratory at Tucson.
+From him receipt of a copy is acknowledged, with appreciation. The plat
+includes the irrigated area below the presidio.
+
+
+A Texan Settlement of the Faith
+
+The Commissioner traveled broadly and chronicled much and the Author is
+indebted to his memoirs for several items of early Mormon settlement in
+the Southwest.
+
+One of the earliest details given by Bartlett concerns his arrival,
+October 14, 1850, at the village of Zodiac, in the valley of the
+Piedernales River, near Fredericksburg, about seventy miles northwest of
+San Antonio, Texas. Zodiac he found a village of 150 souls, headed by
+Elder Wight, locally known as "Colonel," who acted as host. That the
+settlement, even in such early times, was typically Mormon, is shown by
+the following extract from Bartlett's diary:
+
+"Everywhere around us in this Zodiacal settlement we saw abundant signs
+of prosperity. Whatever may be their theological errors, in secular
+matters they present an example of industry and thrift which the people
+of the State might advantageously imitate. They have a tract of land
+which they have cultivated for about three years and which has yielded
+profitable crops. The well-built houses, perfect fences and tidy
+dooryards give the place a homelike air such as we had not seen before in
+Texas. The dinner was a regular old-fashioned New England farmer's meal,
+comprising an abundance of everything, served with faultless neatness.
+The entire charge for the dinner for twelve persons and corn for as many
+animals was $3.... The colonel said he was the first settler in the
+valley of the Piedernales and for many miles around. In his colony were
+people of all trades. He told me his crop of corn this year would amount
+to 7000 bushels, for which he expected to realize $1.25 a bushel."
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Seven
+
+_MISSIONARY PIONEERING_
+
+
+Hamblin, "Leatherstocking of the Southwest"
+
+In Southern Arizona the first pioneering was done by devoted Franciscans
+and Jesuits, their chiefest concern the souls of the gentile Indians. In
+similar wise, the pioneering of northern Arizona had its initiation in a
+hope of the Mormon Church for conversion of the Indians of the canyons
+and plains. In neither case was there the desired degree of success, but
+each period has brought to us many stories of heroism and self-sacrifice
+on the part of the missionaries. In the days when the American colonists
+were shaking off the English yoke, our Southwest was having exploration
+by the martyred Friar Garces. Three-quarters of a century later, the
+trail that had been taken by the priest to the Hopi villages was used by
+a Mormon missionary, Jacob Hamblin, sometimes called the "Leatherstocking
+of the Southwest," more of a trail-blazer than a preacher, a scout of the
+frontier directly commissioned under authority of his Church, serene in
+his faith and confident that his footsteps were being guided from on
+high.
+
+The Author has found himself unable to write the history of northernmost
+Arizona without continual mingling of the name and the personal deeds of
+Jacob Hamblin. Apparently Hamblin had had no special training for the
+work he was to do so well. It seemed to "merely happen" that he was in
+southwestern Utah, as early as 1854, when his Church was looking toward
+expansion to the southward.
+
+Hamblin's first essay into the Arizona country was in the troublous fall
+and winter of 1857, a year when he and his family were living in the
+south end of Mountain Meadows, Utah. He happened to be in Salt Lake when
+the famous Arkansas emigrant train passed through his district. Brigham
+Young sent a messenger southward with instructions to let the wagon train
+(an especially troublesome one) pass as quietly as possible, but these
+instructions were not received and Hamblin learned on the way home, of
+the massacre. The information came personally from John D. Lee, the
+assassin-in-chief. In Hamblin's autobiography is written, "The deplorable
+affair caused a sensation of horror and deep regret throughout the entire
+community, by whom it was unqualifiedly condemned."
+
+Thereafter, Hamblin and his associates rode hard after other emigrants
+who were to be attacked by Indians, and found a company on the Muddy,
+surrounded by Paiutes preparing to attack and destroy them. As a
+compromise, the Indians were given the loose horses and cattle, which
+later were recovered, and the Mormons remained with the company to assist
+in its defense.
+
+
+Aboriginal Diversions
+
+Late in the autumn of 1857, a company came through on the way to
+California, bringing a letter from President Young, directing Hamblin to
+act as guide to California. On his way to join the train, Hamblin found a
+naked man in the hands of the Paiutes, who were preparing "to have a good
+time with him," that is, "they intended to take him to their camp and
+torture him." He saved the man's life and secured the return of his
+clothing. As the caravan neared the Muddy, news came of another Indian
+attack. Hamblin rode ahead and joined the Indians. He later wrote, "I
+called them together and sat down and smoked a little tobacco with them,
+which I had brought along for that purpose." Apparently there was a good
+deal of native diplomacy in the negotiations. There were some promises
+of blankets and shirts and finally there was agreement to let the
+travelers proceed.
+
+[Illustration: JACOB HAMBLIN "Apostle to the Lamanites"]
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH PRESIDENTS
+Brigham Young--above; Lorenzo Snow--above; John Taylor--above
+Wilford Woodruff--below; Joseph Smith, the Prophet--center
+Heber J. Grant--below; Joseph F. Smith--below]
+
+Incidentally, they were met by Ira Hatch and Dudley Leavitt, on their
+return from a mission to the Mohave Indians. The Mohaves, careless of the
+Gospel privileges afforded, held a council over the Mormon missionaries
+and decided that they should die. Hatch thereupon knelt down among the
+savages and "asked the Lord to soften their hearts, that they might not
+shed further blood." The prayer was repeated to the Mohaves by a Paiute
+interpreter. "The heart of the chief was softened" and before dawn the
+next morning he set the two men afoot on the desert and directed them to
+Las Vegas Springs, eighty miles distant. Their food on the journey was
+mesquite bread, "made by pounding the seeds of the mesquite fruits in the
+valley."
+
+Hamblin at all times was very careful in his dealings with the Indians.
+At an early date he might have killed one of them, but his gun missed
+fire, a circumstance for which he later repeatedly praised the Lord.
+Probably his greatest influence came through his absolute fearlessness.
+He was firmly convinced that he was in the Lord's keeping and that his
+time would not come till his mission had been accomplished.
+
+Without doubt, Hamblin's course was largely sustained by a letter
+received by him March 5, 1858, from President Brigham Young, in which he
+prophesied that "the day of Indian redemption draws nigh," and continued,
+"you should always be careful to impress upon them that they should not
+infringe upon the rights of others; and our brethren should be very
+careful not to infringe upon their rights, thus cultivating honor and
+good principles in their midst by example, as well as precept."
+
+In the spring of 1857, Hamblin and Dudley Leavitt, at a point 35 miles
+west of Las Vegas, smelted some lead ore, Hamblin having some knowledge
+of the proper processes. The lead later was left on the desert. The
+wagons were needed to haul iron, remnants of old emigrant wagons that
+had been abandoned on the San Bernardino road.
+
+
+Encounter with Federal Explorers
+
+In the course of his missionary endeavor, in the spring of 1858, Hamblin
+took five men and went by way of Las Vegas Springs to the Colorado River,
+at the foot of the Cottonwood Hills, 170 miles from the Santa Clara,
+Utah, settlement. Upon this trip he had remarkable experiences. On the
+river he saw a small steamer. Men with animals were making their way
+upstream on the opposite side. Thales Haskell, sent to investigate,
+returned next morning with information that the steamer company was of
+military character and very hostile to the Mormons, that the expedition
+had been sent out by the Government to examine the river and learn if a
+force could not be taken through southern Utah in that direction, should
+it be needed, to subjugate the Mormons. Hamblin returned to Las Vegas
+Springs and thought the situation so grave that he counseled abandonment
+of the Mormon settlement then being made at that point.
+
+This record is very interesting in view of contemporary history. Without
+doubt, the steamboat he saw was the little "Explorer," of the
+topographical exploration of the Colorado River in the winter of 1857-8.
+Commanding was Lieut. J.C. Ives of the army Topographical Corps, the
+same officer who had been in the engineering section of Whipple's railway
+survey along the 35th parallel. The craft was built in the east and put
+together at the mouth of the river. The journey upstream was at a low
+stage of water and there was continual trouble with snags and sandy
+bars. Finally, when Black Canyon had been reached, the "Explorer" ran
+upon a sunken rock, the boiler was torn loose, as well as the wheelhouse,
+and the river voyage had to be abandoned, though Ives and two men rowed
+up the stream as far as Vegas Wash.
+
+The steamboat was floated back to Yuma, but Ives started eastward with a
+pack train, guided by the Mohave chief, Iritaba, taking the same route
+that had been pursued many years before by Friar Garces through the Hava
+Supai and Hopi country.
+
+It is to be regretted that Hamblin did not go on board the "Explorer,"
+where no doubt he would have received cordial welcome. Even at that time,
+Brigham Young undoubtedly would have been pleased to have helped in
+forwarding the opening of a route to the southwestern coast by way of the
+Colorado River.
+
+Incidentally, the steamer had a trip that was valuable mainly in the
+excellent mapping that was done by Ives and his engineers. Captain
+Johnston and the steamer "Colorado" had been over the same stretch of
+river before the "Explorer" came and had served to ferry across the
+stream, about where Fort Mohave later stood, the famous camel party of
+Lieutenant Beale.
+
+
+The Hopi and the Welsh Legend
+
+There was serious consideration by the Church authorities of a
+declaration that the Moqui (Hopi) Indians of northern Arizona had a
+dialect that at least embraced many Welsh words. President Young had
+heard that a group of Welshmen, several hundred years before, had
+disappeared into the western wilds, so, with his usual quick inquiry into
+matters that interested him, he sent southward, led by Hamblin, in the
+autumn of 1858, a linguistic expedition, also including Durias Davis and
+Ammon M. Tenney. Davis was a Welshman, familiar with the language of his
+native land. Tenney, then only 15, knew a number of Indian dialects, as
+well as Spanish, the last learned in San Bernardino. They made diligent
+investigation and found nothing whatever to sustain the assertion. Not a
+word could they find that was similar in anywise to any European
+language.
+
+It happens that the Hopi tongue is a composite, mainly a Shoshonean
+dialect, probably accumulated as the various clans of the present tribe
+gathered in northeastern Arizona, from the cactus country to the south,
+the San Juan country to the northward and the Rio Grande valley to the
+eastward. But the Welsh legend was slow in dying.
+
+This expedition of 1858, besides the two individuals noted, included
+Frederick and William Hamblin, Dudley and Thomas Leavitt, Samuel Knight,
+Ira Hatch, Andrew S. Gibbons (later an Arizona legislator), Benjamin
+Knell and a Paiute guide, Naraguts. The journey started at Hamblin's home
+in the Santa Clara settlement and was by way of the mouth of the Paria,
+where a good ferry point was found, but not used, and the Crossing of the
+Fathers on the Colorado, probably crossed by white men for the first time
+since Spanish days. The Hopi villages were found none too soon, for the
+men were very hungry. They had lost the mules that carried the
+provisions. The Hopi were found hospitable and furnished food until the
+runaway mules were brought in. There was some communication through the
+Ute language, after failure with the language of Wales. William Hamblin,
+Thomas Leavitt, Gibbons and Knell were left as missionaries and the rest
+of the dozen made a difficult return journey to their homes, a part of
+the way through snow.
+
+The missionaries left with the Hopi returned the same winter. They had
+not been treated quite as badly as Father Garces, but there had been a
+division among the tribes, started by the priesthood. There was very good
+prophecy, however, by the Indians, to the effect that the Mormons would
+settle in the country to the southward and that their route of travel
+would be by way of the Little Colorado.
+
+It might be well to insert, at this point, a condensation of the Welsh
+legend, though affecting, especially, the Zuni, a pueblo-dwelling tribe,
+living to the eastward of the Hopi and with little ethnologic connection.
+The following was written by Llewellyn Harris (himself of Welsh
+extraction), who was a Mormon missionary visitor to the Zuni in January,
+1878, and is reprinted without endorsement:
+
+"They say that, before the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, the Zuni
+Indians lived in Mexico. Some of them still claim to be the descendants
+of Montezuma. At the time of the conquest they fled to Arizona and
+settled there. They were at one time a very powerful tribe, as the ruins
+all over that part of the country testify. They have always been
+considered a very industrious people. The fact that they have, at one
+time, been in a state of civilization far in advance of what they are at
+present, is established beyond a doubt. Before the Catholic religion was
+introduced to them, they worshipped the sun. At present they are nearly
+all Catholics. A few of them have been baptized into our Church by
+Brothers Ammon M. Tenney and R.H. Smith, and nearly all the tribe say
+they are going to be baptized.
+
+"They have a great many words in the language like the Welsh, and with
+the same meaning. Their tradition says that over 300 years before the
+conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, some white men landed in Mexico and
+told the Indians that they had come from the regions beyond the sea to
+the east. They say that from these white men came the ancient kings of
+Mexico, from whom Montezuma descended.
+
+"These white men were known to the Indians of Mexico by the name of
+Cambaraga; and are still remembered so in the traditions of Zuni Indians.
+In time those white people became mixed with Indians, until scarcely a
+relic of them remained. A few traditions of the Mexican Indians and a few
+Welsh words among the Zunis, Navajos and Moquis are all that can be found
+of that people now.
+
+"I have the history of the ancient Britons, which speaks of Prince Madoc,
+who was the son of Owen Guynedd, King of Wales, having sailed from Wales
+in the year 1160, with three ships. He returned in the year 1163, saying
+he had found a beautiful country, across the western sea. He left Wales
+again in the year 1164, with fifteen ships and 3000 men. He was never
+again heard of."
+
+
+Indians Await Their Prophets
+
+President Young kept the Hopi in mind, for the following year (1859) he
+sent Hamblin on a second trip to the Indians, with a company that
+consisted of Marion J. Shelton, Thales Haskell, Taylor Crosby, Benjamin
+Knell, Ira Hatch and John Wm. Young. They reached the Hopi villages
+November 6, talked with the Indians three days and then left the work of
+possible conversion on the shoulders of Shelton and Haskell, who returned
+to the Santa Clara the next spring. The Indians were kind, but
+unbelieving, and "could make no move until the reappearance of the three
+prophets who led their fathers to that land and told them to remain on
+those rocks until they should come again and tell them what to do." Both
+ways of the journey were by the Ute ford.
+
+
+Navajo Killing of Geo. A. Smith, Jr.
+
+In the fall of 1860, Hamblin was directed to attempt to establish the
+faith in the Hopi towns. This time, from Santa Clara, he took Geo. A.
+Smith, Jr., son of an apostle of the Church, Thales Haskell, Jehiel
+McConnell, Ira Hatch, Isaac Riddle, Amos G. Thornton, Francis M. Hamblin,
+James Pearce and an Indian, Enos, with supplies for a year. Young Ammon
+Tenney was sent back. This proved a perilous adventure. Hamblin told he
+had had forebodings of evil. Failure attended an attempt to cross the
+Colorado at the Paria. For two days south of the Crossing of the Fathers,
+there was no water. The Navajo gathered around them and barred further
+progress. There was a halt, and bartering was started for goods that had
+been brought along to exchange for Indian blankets. At this point, Smith
+was shot. The deed was done with his own revolver, which had been passed
+to an Indian who asked to inspect it. The Indians readily admitted
+responsibility, stating that it was in reprisal for the killing of three
+Navajos by palefaces and they demanded two more victims before the Mormon
+company would be allowed to go in peace. The situation was a difficult
+one for Jacob, but he answered bravely, "I would not give a cent to live
+after I had given up two men to be murdered; I would rather die like a
+man than live like a dog." Jacob went out by himself and had a little
+session of prayer and then the party started northward, flanked by
+hostile Navajos, but accompanied by four old friendly tribesmen. Smith
+was taken along on a mule, with McConnell behind to hold him on. Thus it
+was that he died about sundown. His last words, when told that a stop
+could not be made, were, "Oh, well, go on then; but I wish I could die in
+peace." The body was wrapped in a blanket and laid in a hollow by the
+side of the trail, for no stop could be made even to bury the dead.
+
+About a week later, Santa Clara was reached by the worn and jaded party,
+sustained the last few days on a diet mainly of pinon nuts.
+
+That winter, through the snow and ice, Hamblin led another party across
+the Colorado out upon the desert, to bring home the remains of their
+brother in the faith. The head and the larger bones were returned for
+burial at Salt Lake City. It was learned that the attacking Indians were
+from Fort Defiance and on this trip it was told that the Navajo
+considered their own action a grave mistake.
+
+
+A Seeking of Baptism for Gain
+That the Shivwits were susceptible to missionary argument was indicated
+about 1862, when James H. Pearce brought from Arizona into St. George a
+band of 300 Indians, believed to comprise the whole tribe. All were duly
+baptized into the Church, the ceremony performed by David H. Cannon. Then
+Erastus Snow distributed largess of clothing and food. Ten years later
+Pearce again was with the Indians, greeted in affectionate remembrance.
+But there was complaint from the Shivwits they "had not heard from the
+Lord since he left." Then followed fervent suggestions from the tribesmen
+that they be taken to St. George and be baptized again. They wanted more
+shirts. They also wanted Pearce to write to the Lord and to tell Him the
+Shivwits had been pretty good Indians.
+
+The First Tour Around the Grand Canyon
+
+Hamblin's adventures to the southward were far from complete. In the
+autumn of 1862 President Young directed another visit to the Hopi,
+recommending that the Colorado be crossed south of St. George, in the
+hope of finding a more feasible route. Hamblin had had disaster the
+previous spring, in which freshets had swept away his grist mill and
+other improvements. Most of the houses and cultivated land of the Santa
+Clara settlement had disappeared. He was given a company of twenty men,
+detailed by Apostles Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow. A small boat was taken
+to the river by wagon. Hamblin's chronicle does not tell just where the
+crossing was made, but it is assumed that it was at the mouth of the
+Grand Wash. From the river crossing there were four days of very dry
+travel toward the southeast, with the San Francisco Mountains in the far
+distance. There is no reference in his diary to the finding of any roads,
+but it is probable that most of the journey was on aboriginal trails.
+Snow was found at the foot of the San Francisco Mountains and two days
+thereafter the Little Colorado was crossed and then were reached the
+Hopi, who "had been going through some religious ceremonies to induce the
+Great Spirit to send storms to water their country that they might raise
+abundance of food the coming season." This may have been the annual
+Snake Dance. The Hopi refused to send some of their chief men to Utah,
+their traditions forbidding, but finally three joined after the
+expedition had started. There had been left behind McConnell, Haskell,
+and Hatch to labor for a season, and as hostages for the return of the
+tribesmen.
+
+This journey probably was the first that ever circled the Grand Canyon,
+for return was by the Ute Crossing, where fording was difficult and
+dangerous, for the water was deep and ice was running. The three Hopi
+were dismayed over their violation of tradition, but were induced to go
+on. Incidentally, food became so scarce that resort was had to the
+killing and cooking of crows.
+
+The Indians were taken on to Salt Lake City and were shown many things
+that impressed them greatly. An unsuccessful attempt was made to learn
+whether they spoke Welsh. Hamblin wrote that the Indians said, "They had
+been told that their forefathers had the arts of reading, writing, making
+books, etc."
+
+[Illustration: LIEUTENANT IVES' STEAMER ON THE COLORADO IN 1858]
+
+[Illustration: AMMON M. TENNEY Pioneer Scout of the Southwest]
+
+Here it may be noted that the Grand Canyon was circumtoured in the fall
+of 1920 by Governor and Mrs. Campbell, but under very different
+circumstances. The vehicle was an automobile. Crossing of the Colorado
+was at the Searchlight ferry, about forty miles downstream from old
+Callville. On the first day 248 miles were covered, mainly on the old
+Mormon road, to Littlefield, through the Muddy section, now being
+revived. St. George and other pioneer southern Utah settlements were
+passed on the way to Kanab and Fredonia. The road to the mouth of the
+Paria and to Lee's Ferry appears to have been found very little less
+rough than when traveled by the Mormon ox teams, and the river crossing
+was attended by experiences with quicksand and other dangers, while the
+pull outward on the south side was up a steep and hazardous highway.
+
+
+A Visit to the Hava-Supai Indians
+
+Hamblin had about as many trips as Sindbad the Sailor and about as many
+adventures. Of course, he had to take the Hopi visitors home, and on this
+errand he started from St. George on March 18, 1863, with a party of six
+white men, including Gibbons, Haskell, Hatch and McConnell. They took the
+western route and found a better crossing, later called Pearce's Ferry.
+At this point they were overtaken by Lewis Greeley, a nephew of Horace
+Greeley of the New York Tribune, who had been sent on to the river by
+Erastus Snow.
+
+A trail was taken to the left of the former route. This trail very
+clearly was the main thoroughfare used by the Wallapai into Cataract
+Canyon, which was so known at that time. Down the trail, into the abysmal
+"voladero" of Father Garces, they traveled a day and part of another,
+leading their horses most of the way. In many places they could not have
+turned their animals around had they wished to do so.
+
+Cataract Canyon, the home of the Hava-Supai, is a veritable Yosemite,
+with craggy walls that rise nearly 3000 feet to the mesa above. Hamblin
+especially noted the boiling from the bottom of the canyon of a
+beautiful large spring, the same which today irrigates the lands of the
+well-disposed Indians. These Indians gave assistance to the party and
+told of an attack made a short time before by Apaches from the southeast,
+who had been met in a narrow pass where several of their number had been
+slain. Assuring the Hava-Supai they would send no enemies into their
+secret valley, Hamblin led his party to the eastward, up the Tope-Kobe
+trail to the plateau. This was reached April 7. Though along the Moqui
+trail at no point were they very far from the Grand Canyon, that gorge
+was not noted in Hamblin's narrative, for the brethren were not
+sight-seeing. A few days later they were in the Hopi towns, to which the
+three much-traveled Indians preceded them, in eagerness to see their
+people again.
+
+Only two days were spent with the Indians and on April 15, taking
+Haskell, Hatch and McConnell, the party struck toward the southwest, to
+find the Beale road. On the 20th, Greeley discovered a pond of clear cold
+water several acres in extent in the crater of a volcanic peak. The San
+Francisco peaks were passed, left to the southward, and the Beale road
+was struck six miles west of LeRoux Springs, the later site of Fort
+Moroni, seven miles northwest of the present Flagstaff.
+
+The Beale road was followed until the 28th. Thence, the men suffered
+thirst, for 56 hours being without water. Ten of their eighteen horses
+were stolen. This, it was explained, was due to the failure of the
+Hava-Supai to return Wallapai horses which the men had left in Cataract
+Canyon on the outward journey. St. George was reached May 13, 1863. The
+main result had been the exploration of a practicable, though difficult,
+route for wagons from St. George to the Little Colorado and to the Hopi
+towns.
+
+
+Experiences with the Redskins
+
+Ammon M. Tenney in Phoenix lately told the Author that the Navajo were
+the only Indians who ever really fought the Mormons and the only tribe
+against which the Mormons were compelled to depart from their rule
+against the shedding of blood. It is not intended in this work to go into
+any history of the many encounters between the Utah Mormons and the
+Arizona Navajo, but there should be inclusion of a story told by Tenney
+of an experience in 1865 at a point eighteen miles west of Pipe Springs
+and six miles southwest of Canaan, Utah. There were three Americans from
+Toquerville, the elder Tenney, the narrator, and Enoch Dodge, the last
+known as one of the bravest of southern Utah pioneers. The three were
+surrounded by sixteen Navajos, and, with their backs to the wall, fought
+for an hour or more, finally abandoning their thirteen horses and running
+for better shelter. Dodge was shot through the knee cap, a wound that
+incapacitated him from the fight thereafter. The elder Tenney fell and
+broke his shoulder blade and was stunned, though he was not shot.
+This left the fight upon the younger Tenney, who managed to climb a
+twelve-foot rocky escarpment. He reached down with his rifle and dragged
+up his father and Dodge. The three opportunely found a little cave in
+which they secreted themselves until reasonably rested, hearing the
+Indians searching for them on the plateau above. Then, in the darkness,
+they made their way fifteen miles into Duncan's Retreat on the Virgin
+River in Utah. "There is one thing I will say for the Navajo," Tenney
+declared with fervor. "He is a sure-enough fighting man. The sixteen of
+them stood shoulder to shoulder, not taking cover, as almost any other
+southwestern Indian would have done."
+
+Apparently, on each of the visits that had been made by Hamblin to the
+Hopi, he had made suggestion that the tribes leave their barren land and
+move to the northward, across the Colorado, where good lands might be
+allotted them, on which they might live in peace and plenty, where they
+might build cities and villages the same as other people, but, according
+to Hamblin's journal, "They again told us that they could not leave their
+present location until the three prophets should appear again."
+
+This was written particularly in regard to a visit made to the villages
+in 1864, and in connection with a theft of horses by Navajos near Kanab.
+It was found inexpedient to go into the Navajo country, as Chief
+Spaneshanks, who had been relatively friendly, had been deposed by his
+band and had been succeeded by a son of very different inclination.
+
+In autumn of the same year, Anson Call, Dr. Jas. M. Whitmore, A.M. Cannon
+and Hamblin and son visited Las Vegas Springs and the Colorado River,
+stopping a while with the Cottonwood Island Indians and the Mohave, and
+establishing Callville.
+
+
+Killing of Whitmore and McIntire
+
+January 8, 1866, Doctor Whitmore and his herder, Robert McIntire, were
+killed in Arizona, four miles north of Pipe Springs by a band of Paiede
+Paiutes and Navajos, that drove off horses, sheep and cattle. There was
+pursuit from St. George by Col. D. D. McArthur and company.
+
+A tale of the pursuit comes from Anthony W. Ivins, a member of the
+company, then a mere boy who went out on a mule with a quilt for a
+saddle. The weather was bitterly cold. The bodies were found covered with
+snow, which was three feet deep. Each body had many arrow and bullet
+wounds. The men had been attacked while riding the range, only McIntire
+being armed. A detachment, under Captain James Andrus, found the
+murderous Indians in camp and, in a short engagement, killed nine of
+them.
+
+The trail to the Hopi towns must have been well known to the Mormon scout
+when in October, 1869, again he was detailed to investigate the sources
+of raids on the Mormon borders. He had a fairly strong company of forty
+men, including twenty Paiutes. The crossing was at the mouth of the
+Paria. Apparently all that was accomplished on this trip was to learn
+that the Indians intended to make still another raid on the southern
+settlements. Hamblin wanted to go back by way of the Ute trail and the
+Crossing of the Fathers, but was overruled by his brethren, who preferred
+the Paria route. When they returned, it was to learn that the Navajos
+already had raided and had driven off more than 1200 head of animals, and
+that, if the Mormon company, on returning, had taken the Ute trail, the
+raiders would have been met and the animals possibly recovered. The
+winter was a hard one for the Mormons who watched the frontier, assisted
+by friendly Paiutes. The trouble weighed heavily upon Hamblin's mind and,
+in the spring of 1870, at Kanab, he offered himself to President Young
+as an ambassador to the Navajo, to prevent, if possible, further shedding
+of blood.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Eight
+
+Hamblin Among the Indians
+
+
+Visiting the Paiutes with Powell
+
+It was in the summer of 1870 that Hamblin met Major J.W. Powell, who had
+descended the Colorado the previous year. Powell's ideas coincided very
+well with those of Hamblin. He wanted to visit the Indians and prevent
+repetition of such a calamity as that in which three of his men had been
+killed near Mount Trumbull, southwest of Kanab. So, in September, 1870,
+there was a gathering at Mount Trumbull, with about fifteen Indians. What
+followed is presented in Powell's own language:
+
+"This evening, the Shivwits, for whom we have sent, come in, and after
+supper we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around this
+we sit--the Indians living here, the Shivwits, Jacob Hamblin and myself.
+This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well and has a great influence
+over all the Indians in the region round about. He is a silent, reserved
+man, and when he speaks it is in a slow, quiet way that inspires great
+awe. His talk is so low that they must listen attentively to hear, and
+they sit around him in deathlike silence. When he finishes a measured
+sentence the chief repeats it and they all give a solemn grunt. But,
+first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a few whiffs, then pass it to
+Hamblin; he smokes and gives it to the man next, and so it goes around.
+When it has passed the chief, he takes out his own pipe, fills and lights
+it, and passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own pipe in turn, but
+when the Indian pipe comes around, I am nonplussed. It has a large stem,
+which has at some time been broken, and now there is a buckskin rag wound
+around it and tied with sinew, so that the end of the stem is a huge
+mouthful, exceedingly repulsive. To gain time, I refill it, then engage
+in very earnest conversation, and, all unawares, I pass it to my neighbor
+unlighted. I tell the Indians that I wish to spend some months in their
+country during the coming year and that I would like them to treat me as
+a friend. I do not wish to trade; do not want their lands. Heretofore I
+have found it very difficult to make the natives understand my object,
+but the gravity of the Mormon missionary helps me much.
+
+"Then their chief replies: Your talk is good and we believe what you
+say. We believe in Jacob, and look upon you as a father. When you are
+hungry, you may have our game. You may gather our sweet fruits. We will
+give you food when you come to our land. We will show you the springs and
+you may drink; the water is good. We will be friends and when you come we
+will be glad. We will tell the Indians who live on the other side of the
+great river that we have seen Kapurats (one-armed--the Indian name for
+Powell) and that he is the Indian's friend. We will tell them he is
+Jacob's friend."
+
+The Indians told that the three men had been killed in the belief they
+were miners. They had come upon an Indian village, almost starved and
+exhausted with fatigue, had been supplied with food and put on their way
+to the settlements. On receipt of news that certain Indians had been
+killed by whites, the men were followed, ambushed and slain with many
+arrows. Powell observes that that night he slept in peace, "although
+these murderers of my men were sleeping not 500 yards away." Hamblin
+improved the time in trying to make the Indians understand the idea of
+an overruling Providence and to appreciate that God was not pleased with
+the shedding of blood. He admitted, "These teachings did not appear to
+have much influence at the time, but afterwards they yielded much good
+fruit."
+
+Wm. R. Hawkins, cook for this first Powell expedition, died a few years
+ago in Mesa, Arizona. Willis W. Bass, a noted Grand Canyon guide, lately
+published an interesting booklet carrying some side lights on the Powell
+explorations. In it is declared, on Hawkins' authority, that the three
+men who climbed the cliffs, to meet death above, left the party after a
+quarrel with Powell, the dispute starting in the latter's demand for
+payment for a watch that had been ruined while in possession of one of
+the trio. Powell is charged with having ordered the man to leave his
+party if he would not agree to pay for the watch.
+
+
+A Great Conference with the Navajo
+
+One of the greatest of Hamblin's southern visitations was in the autumn
+of 1870, when he served as a guide for Major Powell eastward, by way of
+the Hopi villages and of Fort Defiance. Powell's invitation was the more
+readily accepted as this appeared to be an opening for the much-desired
+peace talk with the Navajo. In the expedition were Ammon M. Tenney,
+Ashton Nebecker, Nathan Terry and Elijah Potter of the brethren, three of
+Powell's party and a Kaibab Indian.
+
+According to Tenney, in the previous year, the Navajo had stolen
+$1,000,000 worth of cattle, horses and sheep in southern Utah, Tenney, in
+a personal interview with the Author in 1920, told that the great council
+then called, was tremendously dramatic. About a dozen Americans were
+present, including Powell and Captain Bennett. Tenney estimated that
+about 8000 Indians were on the council ground at Fort Defiance. This
+number would have included the entire tribe. It was found that the
+gathering was distinctly hostile. Powell and Hamblin led in the talking.
+The former had no authority whatever, but gave the Indians to understand
+that he was a commissioner on behalf of the whites and that serious
+chastisement would come to them in a visit of troops if there should be
+continuation of the evil conditions complained of by the Mormons.
+Undoubtedly this talk had a strong effect upon the Indians, who in Civil
+War days had been punished harshly for similar depredations upon the
+pueblos of New Mexico and who may have remembered when Col. Kit Carson
+descended upon the Navajo, chopped down their fruit trees, and laid waste
+their farms, later most of the tribe being taken into exile in New
+Mexico.
+
+Dellenbaugh and Hamblin wrote much concerning this great council. Powell
+introduced Hamblin as a representative of the Mormons, whom he highly
+complimented as industrious and peaceful people. Hamblin told of the
+evils of a war in which many men had been lost, including twenty or
+thirty Navajos, and informed the Indians that the young men of Utah
+wanted to come over to the Navajo country and kill, but "had been told to
+stay at home until other means of obtaining peace had been tried and had
+failed." He referred to the evils that come from the necessity of
+guarding stock where neither white nor Indian could trust sheep out of
+sight. He then painted the beauties of peace, in which "horses and sheep
+would become fat and in which one could sleep in peace and awake and find
+his property safe." Low-voiced, but clearly, the message concluded:
+
+"What shall I tell my people, the Mormons, when I return home? That we
+may live in peace, live as friends, and trade with one another? Or shall
+we look for you to come prowling around our weak settlements, like wolves
+in the night? I hope we may live in peace in time to come. I have now
+gray hairs on my head, and from my boyhood I have been on the frontiers
+doing all I could to preserve peace between white men and Indians. I
+despise this killing, this shedding of blood. I hope you will stop this
+and come and visit and trade with our people. We would like to hear what
+you have got to say before we go home."
+
+Barbenceta, the principal chief, slowly approached as Jacob ended and,
+putting his arms around him, said, "My friend and brother, I will do all
+that I can to bring about what you have advised. We will not give all our
+answer now. Many of the Navajos are here. We will talk to them tonight
+and will see you on your way home." The chief addressed his people from a
+little eminence. The Americans understood little or nothing of what he
+was saying, but it was agreed that it was a great oration. The Indians
+hung upon every word and responded to every gesture and occasionally, in
+unison, there would come from the crowd a harsh "Huh, Huh," in approval
+of their chieftain's advice and admonition.
+
+A number of days were spent at Fort Defiance in attempting to arrive at
+an understanding with the Navajo. Hamblin wrote, "through Ammon M. Tenney
+being able to converse in Spanish, we accomplished much good."
+
+On the way home, in a Hopi village, were met Barbenceta and also a number
+of chiefs who had not been at Fort Defiance. The talk was very agreeable,
+the Navajos saying, "We hope that we may be able to eat at one table,
+warm by one fire, smoke one pipe, and sleep in one blanket."
+
+
+An Official Record of the Council
+
+Determination of the time of the council has come to the Arizona
+Historian's office, within a few days of the closing of the manuscript of
+this work, the data supplied from the office of the Church Historian at
+Salt Lake City. In it is a copy of a final report, dated November 5,
+1870, and signed by Frank F. Bennett, Captain United States
+Army, agent for the Navajo Indians at Fort Defiance. The report is as
+follows:
+
+"To Whom It May Concern:
+
+"This is to certify that Capt. Jacob Hamblin of Kanab, Kane Co., Southern
+Utah, came to this agency with Prof. John W. Powell and party on the 1st
+day of November, 1870, and expressed a desire to have a talk with myself
+and the principal men of the Navajo Indians in regard to depredations
+which the Navajos are alleged to have committed in southern Utah.
+
+"I immediately informed the chiefs that I wished them to talk the matter
+over among themselves and meet Captain Hamblin and myself in a council at
+the agency in four days. This was done and we, today, have had a long
+talk. The best of feeling existed. And the chiefs and good men of the
+Navajo Indians pledge themselves that no more Navajos will be allowed to
+go into Utah; and that they will not, under any circumstances, allow any
+more depredations to be committed by their people. That if they hear of
+any party forming for the purpose of making a raid, that they will
+immediately go to the place and stop them, using force if necessary. They
+express themselves as extremely anxious to be on the most friendly terms
+with the Mormons and that they may have a binding and lasting peace.
+
+"I assure the people of Utah that nothing shall be left undone by me to
+assist these people in their wishes and I am positive that they are in
+earnest and mean what they say.
+
+"I am confident that this visit of Captain Hamblin and the talk we have
+had will be the means of accomplishing great good."
+
+Together with this Bennett letter is one addressed by Jacob Hamblin to
+Erastus Snow, dated November 21, 1870, and reciting in detail the
+circumstances of the great council, concluded November 5, 1870. Most of
+the debate was between Hamblin and Chief Barbenceta, with occasional
+observations by Powell concerning the might of the American Nation and
+the absolute necessity for cessation of thievery. Hamblin told how the
+young men and the middle-aged of his people had gathered to make war upon
+the Navajo, "determined to cross the river and follow the trail of the
+stolen stock and lay waste the country, but our white chief, Brigham
+Young, was a man of peace and stopped his people from raiding and wanted
+us to ask peace. This is my business here." He told that, five years
+before, the Navajos were led by three principal men of the Paiutes and at
+that time seven Paiutes were killed near the place where the white man
+was killed. These were not the right Indians, not the Paiutes who had
+done the mischief. Barbenceta talked at great length. To a degree he
+blamed the Paiutes, but could not promise that no more raids would be
+made, but he told the agent he would endeavor to stop all future
+depredations and would return stolen stock, if found.
+
+
+Navajos to Keep South of the River
+
+There finally was agreement that Navajos should go north of the river
+only for horse trading, or upon necessary errands, and that when they did
+go, they would be made safe and welcome, this additionally secure, if
+they were to go first to Hamblin.
+
+The Hopi and the Navajo, at that time, and probably for many years
+before, were unfriendly. There was a tale how the Hopi had attacked 35
+Navajos, disarmed them, and then had thrown them off a high cliff between
+two of their towns. Hamblin went to the place indicated and found a
+number of skeletons and remains of blankets and understood that the deed
+had been done the year before. The Navajo had plundered the Hopi for
+generations and the latter had retaliated.
+
+Hamblin's diary gives the great Navajo council as in 1871. There also is
+much confusion of dates in several records of the time. But the year
+appears to be definitely established through the fact that Powell was in
+Salt Lake in October and November of 1871. It is a curious fact, also,
+that Powell, in his own narrative of the 1870 trip, makes no reference to
+Hamblin's presence with him south of the river or even to the dramatic
+circumstances of the great council, set by Hamblin and Dellenbaugh on
+November 2. Powell's diary places him at Fort Defiance October 31, 1870,
+and at a point near Fort Wingate November 2.
+
+
+Tuba's Visit to the White Men
+
+It was on the return from the grand council with the Navajo, in November,
+1870, that Hamblin took to Utah, Tuba, a leading man of the Oraibi Hopi
+and his wife, Pulaskaninki.
+
+In Hamblin's journal is a charming little account of how Tuba crossed the
+prohibited river. Tuba told Hamblin, "I have worshipped the Father of us
+all in the way you believe to be right. Now I wish you would do as the
+Hopi think is right before we cross." So the two knelt, Hamblin accepting
+in his right hand some of the contents of Tuba's medicine bag and Tuba
+prayed "for pity upon his Mormon friends, that none might drown, and for
+the preservation of all the animals we had, as all were needed, and for
+the preservation of food and clothing, that hunger nor cold might be
+known on the trail." They arose and scattered the ingredients from the
+medicine bag into the air, upon the men and into the waters of the river.
+Hamblin wrote, "To me the whole ceremony seemed humble and reverential. I
+feel the Father had regard for such petitions." There was added prayer by
+Tuba when the expedition safely landed on the opposite shore, at the
+mouth of the Paria.
+
+Tuba had a remarkable trip. He was especially interested in the spinning
+mill at Washington, for he had made blankets, and his wife, with handmill
+experience, thought of labor lost when she looked at the work of a flour
+mill. At St. George they saw President Young, who gave them clothing.
+
+Tuba was taken back home to Oraibi in safety in September, 1871, and his
+return was celebrated by feasting.
+
+Of date December 24, 1870, in the files of the Deseret News is found a
+telegram from George A. Smith, who was with President Brigham Young and
+party in Utah's Dixie, at St. George. He wired:
+
+"Jacob Hamblin, accompanied by Tooby, a Moqui magistrate of Oraibi
+village, and wife, who are on a visit to this place to get information in
+regard to agriculture and manufactures, came here lately. Tooby, being
+himself a skillful spinner, examined the factory and grist mill at
+Washington. Upon seeing 360 spindles in operation, he said he had no
+heart to spin with his fingers any more."
+
+On the trip southward in 1871, on which Hamblin returned Tuba and his
+wife to their home, he served as guide as far as the Ute ford for a party
+that was bearing provisions for the second Powell expedition. He arrived
+at the ford September 25, but remained only a day, then going on to Moen
+Copie, Oraibi and Fort Defiance, where he seems to have had some business
+to conclude with the chiefs. In his journal is told that he divided time
+at a Sunday meeting with a Methodist preacher. Returning, with three
+companions and nine Navajos, Hamblin reached the Paria October 28, taken
+across by the Powell party, though Powell had gone on from Ute ford to
+Salt Lake, there to get his family. The expedition had reached the ford
+October 6, and had dropped down the river to the Paria, where arrival was
+on the 22d. Hamblin went on to Salt Lake.
+
+
+The Sacred Stone of the Hopi
+
+The trust placed in Mormon visitors to the Hopi was shown by exhibition
+to them of a sacred stone. On one of the visits of Andrew S. Gibbons,
+accompanied by his sons, Wm. H. and Richard, the three were guests of old
+Chief Tuba in Oraibi. Tuba told, of this sacred stone and led his friends
+down into an underground kiva, from which Tuba's son was despatched into
+a more remote chamber. He returned bringing the stone. Apparently it was
+of very fine-grained marble, about 15x18 inches in diameter and a few
+inches in thickness. Its surface was entirely covered with hieroglyphic
+markings, concerning which there was no attempt at translation at the
+time, though there were etched upon it clouds and stars. The Indians
+appeared to have no translation and only knew that it was very sacred.
+Tuba said that at one time the stone incautiously was exhibited to an
+army officer, who attempted to seize it, but the Indians saved the relic
+and hid it more securely.
+
+The only official record available to this office, bearing upon the
+stone, is found in the preface of Ethnological Report No. 4, as follows:
+
+Mr. G. K. Gilbert furnished some data relating to the sacred stone kept
+by the Indians of the village of Oraibi, on the Moki mesas. This stone
+was seen by Messrs. John W. Young and Andrew S. Gibbons, and the notes
+were made by Mr. Gilbert from those furnished him by Young, Few white men
+have had access to this sacred record, and but few Indians have enjoyed
+the privilege. The stone is a red-clouded marble, entirely different from
+anything found in the region.
+
+
+In the Land of the Navajo
+
+In 1871, 1872 and 1873 Hamblin did much exploration. He located a
+settlement on the Paria River, started a ranch in Rock House Valley and
+laid out a practicable route from Lee's Ferry to the Little Colorado.
+
+Actual use of the Lee's Ferry road by wagons was in the spring of 1873 by
+a party headed by Lorenzo W. Roundy, who crossed the Colorado at Lee's
+Ferry, passing on to Navajo Springs, seven miles beyond, and thence about
+ten miles to Bitter Springs and then on to Moen Copie. The last he
+described as a place "a good deal like St. George, having many springs
+breaking out from the hills, land limited, partly impregnated with
+salts." He passed by a Moqui village and thence on to the overland mail
+route. The Little Colorado was described as "not quite the size of the
+Virgin River, water a little brackish, but better than that of the
+Virgin." In May of the same year, Hamblin piloted, as far as Moen Copie,
+the first ten wagons of the Haight expedition that failed in an attempt
+to found a settlement on the Little Colorado.
+
+Just as the Chiricahua Apaches to the southward found good pickings in
+Mexico, so the Navajo early recognized as a storehouse of good things,
+for looting, the Mormon settlements along the southern border of Utah. A
+degree of understanding was reached by the Mormons with the Ute. There
+was more or less trouble in the earlier days with the Paiute farther
+westward, this tribe haying a number of subdivisions that had to be
+successively pacified by moral or forcible suasion. But it was with the
+Navajo that trouble existed in the largest measure.
+
+Hamblin was absolutely sure of the identity of the American Indians with
+the Lamanites of the Book of Mormon. He regarded the Indians at all times
+as brethren who had strayed from the righteous path and who might be
+brought back by the exercise of piety and patience. Very much like a
+Spanish friar of old, he cheerfully dedicated himself to this particular
+purpose, willing to accept even martyrdom if such an end were to serve
+the great purpose. Undoubtedly this attitude was the basis of his
+extraordinary fortitude and of the calmness with which he faced difficult
+situations. There is admission by him, however, that at one time he was
+very near indeed to death, this in the winter of 1873-74. It is noted
+that nearly all of Hamblin's trips in the wild lands of Arizona were at
+the direction of the Church authorities, for whom he acted as trail
+finder, road marker, interpreter, missionary and messenger of peace to
+the aborigines.
+
+So it happened that it was upon Hamblin that Brigham Young placed
+dependence in a very serious situation that came through the killing of
+three Navajos, on the east fork of the Sevier River, a considerable
+distance into south-central Utah. Four Navajos had come northward to
+trade with the Ute. Caught by snow, they occupied a cabin belonging
+to a non-Mormon named McCarty, incidentally killing one of his calves.
+McCarty, Frank Starr and a number of associates descended upon the
+Indians, of whom one, badly wounded, escaped across the river, taking
+tidings to his tribesmen that the murder had been by Mormons. The Indian
+was not subtle enough to distinguish between sects, and so there was a
+call for bloody reprisals, directed against the southern Mormon
+settlements. The Indian Agent at Defiance sent an investigating party
+that included J. Lorenzo Hubbell.
+
+
+Hamblin's Greatest Experience
+
+In January, 1874, Hamblin left Kanab alone, on a mission that was
+intended to pacify thousands of savage Indians. Possibly since St.
+Patrick invaded Erin, no bolder episode had been known in history. He was
+overtaken by his son with a note from Levi Stewart, advising return, but
+steadfastly kept on, declaring, "I have been appointed to a mission by
+the highest authority of God on earth. My life is of small moment
+compared with the lives of the Saints and the interests of the kingdom of
+God. I determined to trust in the Lord and go on." At Moen Copie Wash he
+was joined by J.E. Smith and brother, not Mormons, but men filled with a
+spirit of adventure, for they were well informed concerning the
+prospective Navajo uprising. At a point a day's ride to the eastward of
+Tuba's home on Moen Copie Wash, the three arrived at a Navajo village,
+from which messengers were sent out summoning a council.
+
+The next noon, about February 1, the council started, in a lodge twenty
+feet long by twelve feet wide, constructed of logs, leaning to the center
+and covered with dirt. There was only one entrance. Hamblin and the
+Smiths were at the farther end. Between them and the door were 24
+Navajos. In the second day's council came the critical time. Hamblin knew
+no Navajo and there had to be resort to a Paiute interpreter, a captive,
+terrified by fear that he too might be sacrificed if his interpretation
+proved unpleasant. His digest of a fierce Navajo discussion of an hour
+was that the Indians had concluded all Hamblin had said concerning the
+killing of the three men was a lie, that he was suspected of being a
+party to the killing, and, with the exception of three of the older
+Indians, all present had voted for Hamblin's death. They had
+distinguished the Smiths as "Americans," but they were to witness the
+torture of Hamblin and then be sent back to the Colorado on foot. The
+Navajos referred especially to Hamblin's counsel that the tribe cross
+the river and trade with the Mormons. Thus they had lost three good young
+men, who lay on the northern land for the wolves to eat. The fourth was
+produced to show his wounds and tell how he had traveled for thirteen
+days, cold and hungry and without a blanket. There was suggestion that
+Hamblin's death might be upon a bed of coals that smoked in the middle of
+the lodge.
+
+[Illustration: EARLY MISSIONARIES AMONG THE INDIANS
+
+1--Andrew S. Gibbons     2--Frederick Hamblin
+3--James Pearce          4--Samuel N. Adair]
+
+[Illustration: MOEN COPIE-FIRST HEADQUARTERS OF MISSIONARIES TO THE MOQUI
+INDIANS]
+
+The Smiths tightened their grasps upon their revolvers. In a letter
+written by one of them was stated:
+
+"Had we shown a symptom of fear, we were lost; but we sat perfectly
+quiet, and kept a wary eye on the foe. It was a thrilling scene. The
+erect, proud, athletic form of the young chief as he stood pointing his
+finger at the kneeling figure before him; the circle of crouching forms;
+their dusky and painted faces animated by every passion that hatred and
+ferocity could inspire, and their glittering eyes fixed with one
+malignant impulse upon us; the whole partially illuminated by the
+fitful gleam of the firelight (for by this time it was dark), formed a
+picture not easy to be forgotten.
+
+"Hamblin behaved with admirable coolness. Not a muscle in his face
+quivered, not a feature changed as he communicated to us, in his usual
+tone of voice, what we then fully believed to be the death warrant of us
+all. When the interpreter ceased, he, in the same easy tone and collected
+manner, commenced his reply. He reminded the Indians of his long
+acquaintance with their tribe, of the many negotiations he had conducted
+between his people and theirs, and his many dealings with them in years
+gone by, and challenged them to prove that he had ever deceived them,
+ever had spoken with a forked tongue. He drew a map of the country on the
+ground, and showed them the improbability of his having been a
+participant in the affray."
+
+In the end, the three were released after a discussion in the stifling
+lodge that had lasted for eleven hours, "with every nerve strained to its
+utmost tension and momentarily expecting a conflict which must be to the
+death."
+
+The Indians had demanded 350 head of cattle as recompense, a settlement
+that Hamblin refused to make, but which he stated he would put before the
+Church authorities. Twenty-five days later, according to agreement, he
+met a delegation of Indians at Moabi. Later he took Chief Hastele, a
+well-disposed Navajo, and a party of Indians to the spot where the young
+men had been killed, and there demonstrated, to the satisfaction of the
+Indians, the falsity of the accusation that Mormons had been responsible.
+
+In April, 1874, understanding that the missionaries south of the river
+were in grave danger, a party of 35 men from Kanab and Long Valley, led
+by John R. Young, was dispatched southward. At Moen Copie was found a
+gathering of about forty. It appeared the reinforcement was just in time,
+as a Navajo attack on the post had been planned. Hamblin persisted in
+braving all danger and set out with Ammon M. Tenney and a few others for
+Fort Defiance, but found it unnecessary to go beyond Oraibi.
+
+The Utah affair, after agency investigation, was brought up again at Fort
+Defiance, August 21, with Hamblin and Tenney present, and settled in a
+way that left Hamblin full of thanksgiving.
+
+In 1875, Hamblin located a road from St. George to the Colorado River, by
+way of Grand Wash.
+
+
+The Old Scout's Later Years
+
+In May, 1876, Hamblin served as guide for Daniel H. Wells, Erastus Snow
+and a number of other leading men of Utah on their way to visit the new
+Arizona settlements. The Colorado was at flood and the passage at Lee's
+Ferry, May 28, was a dangerous one. The ferryboat bow was drawn under
+water by the surges and the boat swept clear of three wagons, with the
+attendant men and their luggage. One man was lost, Lorenzo W. Roundy,
+believed to have been taken with a cramp. His body never was found. L.
+John Nuttall and Hamblin swam to safety on the same oar. Lorenzo Hatch,
+Warren Johnson and another clung to a wagon from which they were taken
+off by a skiff just as they were going over the rapids.
+
+In the same year, in December, Hamblin was assigned by President Young to
+lay out a wagon route from Pearce's Ferry, south of St. George, to Sunset
+on the Little Colorado. The Colorado was crossed at a point five miles
+above the old crossing. The animals were made to swim and the luggage was
+conveyed in a hastily constructed skiff. The route was a desert one,
+about on the same line as that to be used by the proposed Arizona-Utah
+highway between Grand Wash and the present Santa Fe railroad station of
+Antares. Returning, Hamblin went as far south as Fort Verde, where Post
+Trader W.S. Head advanced, without money, provisions enough to last until
+the party arrived at the Colorado, south of St. George.
+
+An interview at St. George with President Young succeeding this trip was
+the last known by Hamblin with the Church head, for the President died
+the following August. In that interview, December 15, 1876, Hamblin
+formally was ordained as "Apostle to the Lamanites."
+
+In the spring of 1877, Hamblin journeyed again into Arizona by the Lee's
+Ferry route to the Hopi towns, trying to find an escaping criminal. On
+this trip, the Hopi implored him to pray for rain, as their crops were
+dying. Possibly through his appeal to grace, rain fell very soon
+thereafter, assuring the Indians a crop of corn, squashes and beans.
+There was little rain elsewhere. When Hamblin returned to his own home,
+he found his crops burned from drought.
+
+The estimation in which the Indians held the old scout may have
+indication in a story told lately in the Historian's office by Jacob
+Hamblin Jr. It follows:
+
+"One day my father sent me to trade a horse with an old Navajo Indian
+chief. I was a little fellow and I went on horseback, leading the horse
+to be traded. The old chief came out and lifted me down from my horse. I
+told him my father wanted me to trade the horse for some blankets. He
+brought out a number of handsome blankets, but, as my father had told me
+to be sure and make a good trade, I shook my head and said I would have
+to have more. He then brought out two buffalo robes and quite a number of
+other blankets and finally, when I thought I had done very well, I took
+the roll on my horse, and started for home. When I gave the blankets to
+my father, he unrolled them, looked at them, and then began to separate
+them. He put blanket after blanket into a roll and then did them up and
+told me to get on my horse and take them back and tell the chief he had
+sent me too many. When I got back, the old chief took them and smiled. He
+said, 'I knew you would come back; I knew Jacob would not keep so
+many; you know Jacob is our father, as well as your father.'"
+
+In 1878 Hamblin moved to Arizona and was made a counselor to President
+Lot Smith. He was appointed in 1879 to preside over the Saints in Round
+Valley, the present Springerville, living at Fort Milligan, about one
+mile west of the present Eagar.
+
+He died of malarial fever, August 31, 1886, at Pleasanton, in Williams
+Valley, New Mexico, where a settlement of Saints had been made in
+October, 1882.
+
+Hamblin's remains were removed from Pleasanton before 1889, to Alpine,
+Arizona, where was erected a shaft bearing this very appropriate
+inscription:
+
+"In memory of
+JACOB V. HAMBLIN,
+Born April 2, 1819,
+Died August 31, 1886.
+Peacemaker in the Camp of the Lamanites."
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Nine
+
+Crossing the Mighty Colorado
+
+
+Early Use of "El Vado de Los Padres"
+
+The story of the Colorado is most pertinent in a work such as this, for
+the river and its Grand Canyon formed a barrier that must be passed if
+the southward extension of Zion were to become an accomplished fact. Much
+of detail has been given elsewhere concerning the means of passage used
+by the exploring, missionary and settlement expeditions that had so much
+to do with Arizona's development. In this chapter there will be
+elaboration only to the extent of consideration of the ferries and fords
+that were used.
+
+The highest of the possible points for the crossing of the Colorado in
+Arizona, is on the very Utah line, in latitude 37. It is the famous "Vado
+de los Padres," the Crossing of the Fathers, also known as the Ute ford.
+The first historic reference concerning it is in the journal of the
+famous Escalante-Dominguez priestly expedition of 1776. The party
+returning from its trip northward as far as Utah Lake, reached the river,
+at the mouth of the Paria, about November 1. The stream was found too
+deep, so there was a scaling of hills to the Ute ford, which was reached
+November 8.
+
+This ford is approached from the northward by natural steps down the
+precipices, traveled by horses with some difficulty. On the southern
+side, egress is by way of a long canyon that has few difficulties of
+passage. The ford, which is illustrated in the frontispiece of this work,
+reproduced from an official drawing of the Wheeler expedition, may be
+used more than half the year. In springtime the stream is deep when the
+melted snows of the Rockies are drained by the spring freshet. Usually,
+the Mormon expeditions southward started well after the summer season,
+when the crossing could be made without particular danger.
+
+The Ute ford could hardly be made possible for wagon transportation, so
+there was early effort to find a route for a through road. As early as
+November, 1858, with some such idea in view, Jacob Hamblin was at the
+mouth of the Paria, 35 miles southwest of the Ute ford, but was
+compelled, then and also in November, 1859, to pursue his journey on,
+over the hills, to the ford.
+
+
+Ferrying at the Paria Mouth
+
+The first crossing of the river, at the mouth of the Paria, was made by a
+portion of a party, headed by Hamblin, in the fall of 1860. A raft was
+constructed, on which a few were taken across, but, after one animal had
+been drowned and there had been apparent demonstration that the dangers
+were too great, and that there was lack of a southern outlet, the party
+made its way up the river to the ford.
+
+The first successful crossing at the Paria was in March, 1864, by
+Hamblin, on a raft. The following year there was a Mormon settlement at
+or near the Paria mouth. August 4, 1869, the first of the Powell
+expeditions reached the mouth of the Paria, this on the trip that ended
+at the mouth of the Virgin.
+
+In September, 1869, Hamblin crossed by means of a raft. That the route
+had been definitely determined upon was indicated by the establishment,
+January 31, 1870, of a Paria fort, with guards. In the fall of that year
+President Brigham Young visited the Paria, as is shown in a letter
+written by W.T. Stewart, this after the President had seen the mouth of
+the Virgin and otherwise had shown his interest in a southern outlet for
+Utah. In this same year, according to Dellenbaugh, Major Powell built a
+rough scow, in order to reach the Moqui towns. This was the crossing in
+October, when Jacob Hamblin guided Powell to the Moqui villages and Fort
+Defiance.
+
+In his expedition of 1871, Powell left the river at the Ute ford and went
+to Salt Lake. A few days later, October 22, his men, with a couple of
+boats, reached the Paria for a lengthy stay, surveying on the Kaibab
+plateau, in the vicinity of Kanab. It was written that the boat "Emma
+Dean" was hidden across the river. By that time ferry service had been
+established, for on October 28, 1871, Jacob Hamblin and companions, on
+their way home from the south, were rowed across.
+
+
+John D. Lee on the Colorado
+
+It is remarkable, in the march of history, how there will cling to a spot
+a name that, probably, should not have been attached and that should be
+forgotten. This happens to be the case with Lee's Ferry, a designation
+now commonly accepted for the mouth of the Paria, though it commemorates
+the Mountain Meadows massacre, through the name of the leading culprit in
+that awful frontier tragedy. Yet John Doyle Lee was at the river only a
+few years of all the years of the ferry's long period of use. The name
+seems to have been started within that time, firmly fixed in the
+chronicles of the Powell expedition, in the books of the expeditions
+later and of Dellenbaugh.
+
+John D. Lee located at the mouth of the Paria early in 1872 and named it
+"Lonely Dell," by Dellenbaugh considered a most appropriate designation.
+Lee built a log cabin and acquired some ferry rights that had been
+possessed by the Church.
+
+An interesting detail of the ferry is given by J. H. Beadle, in his
+"Western Wilds." He told of reaching the ferry from the south June 28,
+1872. The attention of a ferryman could not be attracted, so there was
+use of a boat that was found hidden in the sand and brush. This was the
+"Emma Dean," left by Powell. The ferryman materialized two days later,
+calling himself "Major Doyle," but his real identity was developed soon
+thereafter. Beadle gives about a chapter to his interview with Lee, whom
+he called "a born fanatic." Beadle, who had written much against the
+Church, also had given a false name, but his identity was discovered by
+Mrs. Lee through clothing marks. Beadle quoted "Mrs. Doyle" as saying
+that her husband had been with the Mormon Battalion. This was hardly
+exact, though it does appear that Lee, October 19, 1846, was in Santa Fe
+with Howard Egan, the couple returning to Council Bluffs with pay checks
+the Battalion members were sending back toward the support of their
+families. The two messengers had overtaken the Battalion at the Arkansas
+crossing. But Beadle slept safely in Lee's house, which he left on
+Independence Day, departing by way of Jacob's Pools.
+
+July 13, another of Powell's boats was brought down the river. Just a
+month later, Powell arrived at Lonely Dell from Kanab. August 17, he
+started down the river again from the Paria, leaving the "Nellie Powell"
+to the ferryman. This trip was of short duration, for the river was left,
+finally, at Kanab Wash.
+
+In May, 1873, came the first of the real southern Mormon migration. This
+was when H. D. Haight and his party crossed the river at the Paria, on a
+trip that extended only about to Grand Falls, but which was notable from
+the fact that it laid out the first Mormon wagon road south of the river,
+down to and along the Little Colorado.
+
+October 15, 1873, was launched at the ferry, by John L. Blythe, a much
+larger boat than had been known before, made of timber brought from a
+remote point near the Utah line. That same winter Hamblin located a new
+road from the Paria mouth to the San Francisco Mountains.
+
+In June of 1874, an Indian trading post was established at the ferry and
+there was erection of what was called a "strong fort."
+
+In the fall of 1874, Lee departed from the river, this for the purpose of
+securing provisions in the southern settlements of Utah. Several
+travelers noted in their journals that Lee wanted nothing but provisions
+in exchange for ferry tolls. It was on this trip he was captured by
+United States marshals in southern Utah, thereafter to be tried,
+convicted and legally executed by shooting (March 23, 1877), on the spot
+where his crime had been committed.
+
+
+Lee's Canyon Residence Was Brief
+
+Much of romance is attached to Lee's residence on the Colorado. The
+writer has heard many tales how Lee worked rich gold deposits nearby, how
+he explored the river and its canyons and how, for a time, he was in
+seclusion among the Hava-Supai Indians in the remote Cataract Canyon,
+to which, there was assumption, he had brought the fruit seeds from which
+sprang the Indian orchards. This would appear to be mainly assumption,
+for Lee made his living by casual ferrying, and had to be on hand when
+the casual traveler called for his services. Many of the old tales are
+plausible, and have had acceptance in previous writings of the Author,
+but it now appears that Lee's residence on the Canyon was only as above
+stated. J. Lorenzo Hubbell states that Lee was at Moen Copie for a while
+before going to take charge of the ferry.
+
+In the summer of 1877, Ephriam K. Hanks was advised by President Brigham
+Young to buy the ferry, but this plan fell through on the death of the
+President. The ferry, later, was bought from Emma Lee by Warren M.
+Johnson, as Church agent, he paying 100 cows, which were contributed by
+the people of southern Utah and northern Arizona settlements, they
+receiving tithing credits therefor.
+
+About ten years ago, Lee's Ferry was visited by Miss Sharlot M. Hall,
+Arizona Territorial Historian. She wrote entertainingly of her trip, by
+wagon, northwest into the Arizona Strip, much of her diary published in
+1912 in the Arizona Magazine. The Lee log cabin showed that some of its
+logs originally had been used in some sort of raft or rude ferryboat.
+There also was found in the yard a boat, said to have been one of those
+of the Powell expedition. This may have been the "Nellie Powell."
+
+Of the Lee occupancy, Miss Hall tells a little story that gives insight
+into the trials of the women of the frontier:
+
+"When Lee's wife stayed here alone, as she did much of the time, the
+Navajo Indians often crossed here and they were not always friendly. A
+party of them came one night and built their campfire in the yard and
+Mrs. Lee understood enough of their talk to know she was in danger. Brave
+woman as she was, she knew she must overawe them, and she took her little
+children and went out and spread a bed near the fire in the midst of the
+hostile camp and stayed there till morning. When the Navajos rode away
+they called her a brave woman and said she should be safe in the future."
+
+The first real ferryboat was that built by John L. Blythe, on October 15,
+1873, a barge 20x40 feet, one that would hold two wagons, loads and
+teams. It was in this boat that the Jas. S. Brown party crossed in 1875,
+and a much larger migration to the Little Colorado in the spring of
+1876.
+
+In 1877, there was consideration of the use of the Paria road, as a means
+for hauling freight into Arizona, at least as far as Prescott, which was
+estimated by R.J. Hinton as 448 miles distant from the terminus, at that
+time, of the Utah Southern Railroad. Via St. George and Grand Wash, the
+haul was set at 391 miles, though the Paria route seemed to be preferred.
+It should be remembered that at that time the nearest railroad was west
+of Yuma, a desert journey from Prescott of about 350 miles.
+
+
+Crossing the Colorado on the Ice
+
+The Paria crossing had served as route of most of the Mormon migration
+south. The ferry has been passed occasionally by river explorers,
+particularly by the Stanton expedition, which reached that point on
+Christmas Day, 1889, in the course of a trip down the Colorado that
+extended as far as salt water. The ferryboat was not needed at one stage
+of the history of Lee's Ferry. The story comes in the journals of several
+members of a missionary party. Anthony W. Ivins (now a member of the
+Church First Presidency) and Erastus B. Snow reached the river January
+16, 1878, about the same time as did John W. Young and a number of
+prospective settlers bound for the Little Colorado. The Snow narrative of
+the experience follows:
+
+"The Colorado River, the Little Colorado and all the springs and watering
+places were frozen over. Many of the springs and tanks were entirely
+frozen up, so that we were compelled to melt snow and ice for our teams.
+We (that is J.W. Young and I), crossed our team and wagon on the ice over
+the Colorado. I assure you it was quite a novelty to me, to cross such a
+stream of water on ice; many other heavily loaded wagons did the same,
+some with 2500 pounds on. One party did a very foolish trick, which
+resulted in the loss of an ox; they attempted to cross three head of
+large cattle all yoked and chained together, and one of the wheelers
+stepped on a chain that was dragging behind, tripped and fell, pulling
+his mate with him, thereby bringing such a heft on the ice that it broke
+through, letting the whole into the water; but the ice being sufficiently
+strong they could stand on it and pull them out one at a time. One got
+under the ice and was drowned, the live one swimming some length of time
+holding the dead one up by the yoke."
+
+Concerning the same trip, Mr. Ivins has written the Arizona Historian
+that, "the river was frozen from shore to shore, but, above and below for
+a short distance, the river was open and running rapidly." Great care was
+taken in crossing, the wagons with their loads usually pulled over by
+hand and the horses taken over singly. Thus the ice was cracked. Mr.
+Ivins recites the episode of the oxen and then tells that a herd of
+cattle was taken across by throwing each animal, tying its legs and
+dragging it across. One man could drag a grown cow over the smooth ice.
+Mr. Ivins tells that he remained at the river several days, crossing on
+the ice 32 times. On the 22d the missionaries and settlers all were at
+Navajo Springs, ready to continue the journey. It is believed that the
+Colorado has not been frozen over since that time.
+
+There now is prospect that the Paria route between Utah and Arizona will
+be much bettered by construction of a road that avoids Paria Creek and
+attains the summit of the mesa, to the northward, within a comparatively
+short distance. At a point six miles below the ferry, the County of
+Coconino, with national aid, is preparing for construction of a
+suspension bridge, with a 400-foot span. Upon its completion, Lee's Ferry
+will pass, save for its place in history.
+
+
+Crossings Below the Grand Canyon
+
+Below Lee's Ferry comes the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, cut a full mile
+deep for about 200 miles, in a winding channel, with only occasional
+spots where trails are feasible to the river's edge. A suspension bridge
+is being erected by the United States Forest Service below El Tovar, with
+a trail northward up Bright Angel Canyon. A feasible trail exists from
+the mouth of Kanab Wash to the northward. To the southward there is
+possibility of approach to the river by wagon at Diamond Creek, but the
+first real crossing lies immediately below the great Canyon at Grand
+Wash, a point where there was ferrying, in 1862, by Hamblin and a party
+who brought a boat from Kanab. Return on this expedition was via the Ute
+ford. Hamblin, with Lewis Greeley, crossed again at the Grand Wash in
+April, 1863, and there is record of a later trip of indefinite date, made
+by him on the river from Grand Wash to Callville, in company with Crosby
+and Miller. Several of the Hamblin expeditions crossed at Grand Wash in
+the years thereafter, but it appears that it was not until December,
+1876, that a regular ferry there was established, this by Harrison
+Pearce. The place bears the name of Pearce's Ferry unto this day, though
+the maps give it as "Pierce." A son of Harrison Pearce, and former
+assistant in the operation of the ferry, James Pearce, was the first
+settler of Taylor on Silver Creek, Arizona, where he still resides.
+
+The next ferry was at the mouth of the Virgin, where there were boats for
+crossing at necessity, including the time when President Brigham Young
+and party visited the locality, in March, 1870. When the settlers on the
+Muddy and the Virgin balloted upon the proposition of abandoning the
+country, Daniel Bonelli and wife were the only ones who voted the
+negative. When the Saints left southern Nevada, Bonelli and wife moved to
+a point about six miles below the mouth of the Virgin, and there
+established a ferry that still is owned by a son of the founder. This is
+the same noted on government maps as Stone's Ferry, though there has been
+a change of a few miles in location. About midway between the Virgin and
+Grand Wash, about 1881, was established the Mike Scanlon ferry.
+Downstream, early-day ferries were operated at the El Dorado canyon
+crossing and on the Searchlight road, at Cottonwood Island. W.H. Hardy
+ferried at Hardyville. About the later site of Fort Mohave, Capt. Geo. A.
+Johnston, January 23, 1858, in a stern wheel steamer, ferried the famous
+Beale camel expedition across the river.
+
+
+Settlements North of the Canyon
+
+Moccasin Springs, a few miles south of the Utah line and eighteen miles
+by road southwest of Kanab, has had no large population at any time, save
+that about 100 Indians were in the vicinity in 1900. The place got its
+name from moccasin tracks in the sand. The site was occupied some time
+before 1864 by Wm. B. Maxwell, but was vacated in 1866 on account of
+Indian troubles. In the spring of 1870, Levi Stewart and others stopped
+there for a while, with a considerable company, breaking land, but moved
+on to found Kanab, north of the line. This same company also made some
+improvements around Pipe Springs. About a year later, a company under
+Lewis Allen, mainly from the Muddy, located temporarily at Pipe Springs
+and Moccasin. To some extent there was a claim upon the two localities
+by the United Order or certain of its members. The place for years was
+mainly a missionary settlement, but it was told that "even when the
+brethren would plow and plant for them, the Indians were actually too
+lazy to attend to the growing crops."
+
+That the climate of Moccasin favors growth of sturdy manhood is indicated
+by the history of one of its families, that of Jonathan Heaton. At hand
+is a photograph taken in 1905, of Heaton and his fifteen sons. Two of the
+sons died in accidents within the past two years, but the others all grew
+to manhood, and all were registered for the draft in the late war. With
+the photograph is a record that, of the whole family, not one individual
+has tasted tea, coffee, tobacco or liquor of any kind.
+
+
+Arizona's First Telegraph Station
+
+Pipe Springs is situate three miles south of Moccasin Springs and eight
+miles south of the Utah line. It was settled as early as 1863 by Dr. Jas.
+M. Whitmore, who owned the place when he was killed by the Indians
+January 8, 1866. President Brigham Young purchased the claims of the
+Whitmore estate and in 1870 there established headquarters of a Church
+herd, in charge of Anson P. Winsor. Later was organized the Winsor Castle
+Stock Growing Company, in which the Church and President Young held
+controlling interest. It is notable that one of the directors was
+Alexander F. Macdonald, later President of Maricopa Stake. At the spring,
+late in 1870, was erected a sizable stone building, usually known as
+Winsor Castle, a safe refuge from savages, or others, with portholes in
+the walls. In 1879 the company had consolidation with the Canaan
+Cooperative Stock Company. The name, Pipe Springs, had its origin,
+according to A.W. Ivins, in a halt made there by Jacob Hamblin and
+others. William Hamblin claimed he could shoot the bottom out of Dudley
+Leavitt's pipe at 25 yards, without breaking the bowl. This he proceeded
+to do.
+
+Pipe Springs was a station of the Deseret Telegraph, extended in 1871
+from Rockville to Kanab. While the latter points are in Utah, the
+wires were strung southward around a mountainous country along the St.
+George-Kanab road. This would indicate location of the first telegraph
+line within Arizona, as the first in the south, a military line from Fort
+Yuma to Maricopa Wells, Phoenix, Prescott and Tucson, was not built till
+1873.
+
+
+Arizona's Northernmost Village
+
+Fredonia is important especially as the northernmost settlement of
+Arizona, being only three miles south of the 37th parallel that divides
+Utah and this State. It lies on the east bank of Kanab Creek, and is the
+center of a small tract of farming land, apparently ample for the needs
+of the few settlers, who have their principal support from stock raising.
+The first settlement was from Kanab in the spring of 1885, by Thomas
+Frain Dobson, who located his family in a log house two miles below the
+present Fredonia townsite. The following year the townsite was surveyed
+and there was occupation by Henry J. Hortt and a number of others.
+
+The name was suggested by Erastus Snow, who visited the settlement in its
+earliest days, naturally coming from the fact that many of the residents
+were from Utah, seeking freedom from the enforcement of federal laws.
+
+Fredonia is in Coconino County, Arizona, with county seat at Flagstaff,
+145 miles distant in air line, but across the Grand Canyon. The easiest
+method of communication with the county seat is by way of Utah and
+Nevada, a distance of over 1000 miles.
+
+Fredonia was described by Miss Sharlot M. Hall, as "the greenest,
+cleanest, quaintest village of about thirty families, with a nice
+schoolhouse and a church and a picturesque charm not often found, and
+this most northerly Arizona town is almost one of the prettiest. The
+fields of alfalfa and grain lie outside of the town along a level valley
+and are dotted over with haystacks, showing that crops have been good."
+Reference is made to the fact that some of the families were descended
+from the settlers of the Muddy Valley. There had been the usual trouble
+in the building of irrigating canals and the washing away of headgates by
+floods that came down Kanab Creek. Miss Hall continued, "I am constantly
+impressed with the courage and persistence of the Mormon colony; they
+have good, comfortable houses here that have been built with the hardest
+labor amidst floods and drought and all sorts of discouragement. It is
+one of the most beautiful valleys I have seen in Arizona and has a fine
+climate the year round; but these first settlers deserve a special place
+in history by the way they have turned the wilderness into good farms and
+homes."
+
+Concerning the highway to Fredonia, Miss Hall observes, "The Mormon
+colonists who traveled this road certainly had grit when they started,
+and grit enough more to last the rest of their lives on the road."
+
+For years efforts have been made by Utah to secure from Arizona the land
+lying north of the Colorado River, on the ground that, topographically,
+it really belongs to the northern division, and that its people are
+directly connected by birth and religion with the people of Utah. As
+a partial offset, they have offered that part of Utah that lies south of
+the San Juan River, thus to be created a northern Arizona boundary wholly
+along water courses. The suggestion, repeatedly put before Arizona
+Legislatures, invariably has met with hostile reception, especially based
+upon the desire to keep the whole of the Grand Canyon within Arizona.
+Indeed, in later years, the great 200-mile gorge of the Colorado more
+generally is referred to as the Grand Canyon of Arizona, this in order to
+avoid confusion with any scenic attributes of the State of Colorado.
+
+[Illustration: PIPE SPRINGS OR WINSOR CASTLE. The sign on the upper porch
+is of the first telegraph line in Arizona, built in 1870]
+
+[Illustration: MOCCASIN SPRINGS ON ROAD TO THE PARIA]
+
+[Illustration: IN THE KAIBAB FOREST NEAR THE HOME OF THE SHIVWITS
+INDIANS]
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Ten
+
+Arizona's Pioneer Northwest
+
+
+History of the Southern Nevada Point
+
+Assuredly within the purview of this work is the settlement of what now
+is the southern point of Nevada, a part of the original area of New
+Mexico and, hence, included within the Territory of Arizona when created
+in 1863. This embraced the district south of latitude 37, westward to
+the California line, west and north of the Colorado River. The main
+stream of the district is the Virgin, with a drainage area of 11,000
+square miles, Muddy River and Santa Clara Creek being its main
+tributaries. It is a torrential stream, subject to sudden floods and
+carrying much silt. A section of its valley in the northwestern corner of
+the present Arizona, near Littlefield, is to be dammed in the near future
+for the benefit of small farms that have been cultivated for many years
+and for carrying out irrigation plans of much larger scope.
+
+Especial interest attaches to this district through the fact that its
+area once was embraced within the now almost forgotten Arizona County of
+Pah-ute or was part of the present Arizona county of Mohave.
+
+In the Bancroft Library at Berkeley, much information concerning the
+Nevada point was found in a series of pioneer maps. Of very early
+designation were old Las Vegas Springs and Beaver Dams, the latter now
+known as Littlefield. South of the 37th parallel, on a map of 1873, are
+found Cane Springs, Grapevine Springs and West Point, with Las Vegas
+(Sp., The Meadows) and Cottonwood as stations on the Mormon road, which
+divided to the westward at the last-named point.
+
+The main road to Callville appears to have been down the Virgin for a
+short distance from St. Thomas, and then to have led over the hills to
+the westward. From Callville, a road connected with the main highway at
+Las Vegas.
+
+A map of California, made by W.M. Eddy in 1853, has some interesting
+variations of the northwestern New Mexico nomenclature. The Muddy is set
+down as El Rio Atascoso (Sp., "Boggy") and Vegas Wash as Ojo del Gaetan
+(galleta grass?). Nearby was Agua Escorbada, where scurvy grass probably
+was found. There also was Hernandez Spring. There was an outline of the
+Potosi mining district. North of Las Vegas on a California map of 1864,
+was placed the "Old Mormon Fort." Reference by the reader is asked to the
+description of the Old Spanish Trail, which was followed partially by the
+line of the later Mormon road.
+
+On a late map of the section that was lost by Arizona to Nevada, today
+are noted only the settlements of Bunkerville, Moapa, Logan, St. Joseph,
+Mesquite, Overton and St. Thomas. There is a ferry at Rioville, at the
+mouth of the Virgin, and another is at Grand Wash. The name of Las Vegas
+is borne by a railroad station on the Salt Lake and Los Angeles line, a
+few miles from the Springs. There are the mining camps of Pahrump, Manse,
+Keystone, El Dorado and Newberry. The westernmost part of the triangle,
+at an elevation of about 3000 feet, is occupied by the great Amargosa
+desert, which descends abruptly on the California side into the sink of
+Death Valley to below sea level. There has been no development of large
+value in this strip. Its interest to Arizona is merely historical.
+
+Today, few Arizonans know that Pah-ute County once existed as an Arizona
+subdivision, or that Nevada took a part of Arizona, or that later, Nevada
+was given full sixty miles expansion eastward of her boundary line, at
+the expense of both Arizona and Utah. The natural boundary line in that
+section between Nevada and Arizona would have been the Virgin River.
+
+[Illustration: Map]
+
+The information contained in this chapter has been gathered from diverse
+sources, but largely from the records of the Church Historian at Salt
+Lake, wherein, practically, is the only history of the Mormon settlements
+of the southwestern section of what was and is known as "Utah's Dixie."
+
+The southern Nevada point had some value in a mineral way. As early as
+1857, Mormons worked the Potosi silver mines, eighteen miles southwest of
+Las Vegas. Little data is at hand concerning their value. In Bancroft
+is found this sober chronicle: "Believing the mines to be lead, Brigham
+Young sent miners to work them, in anticipation of war with the United
+States, but the product was found too hard for bullets and the mines were
+abandoned."
+
+The Congressional Act of May, 1866, giving Nevada all that part of
+Arizona lying between the Colorado River and California, from about
+longitude 114, took from Arizona 31,850 square miles. This followed the
+extension of Nevada eastward for one degree of longitude. Annexed
+was appropriation of $17,000 for surveys.
+
+
+Missionaries of the Desert
+
+In the record of the Whipple expedition of 1853-4, is found evidence of
+Mormon influence already material in the Southwest. Whipple thought
+highly of the agricultural possibilities of the valley of the Colorado
+River, above the mouth of Bill Williams' Fork and wrote, "The Mormons
+made a great mistake in not occupying the valley of the Colorado." This
+Whipple expedition made a painful journey from the Colorado across the
+Mohave desert and, on March 13, 1854, struck what even then was known as
+the Mormon Road. The next day Whipple met a party of Mormons en route to
+Salt Lake. He told them of the murder of one of his Mexican herders by
+the Paiutes, but the travelers expressed no fear. They said they were at
+peace with the Indians, a statement over which Whipple expressed
+surprise.
+
+About the earliest American occupation of the southern Nevada point
+available in the records upon which this office has worked, appears to
+have been the detail by Brigham Young in 1854 of a party of thirty young
+men "to go to Las Vegas, build a fort there to protect immigrants and the
+United States mail from the Indians, and to teach the latter how to raise
+corn, wheat, potatoes, squash and melons."
+
+The missionary party arrived at Las Vegas June 14, 1855. Four days later
+was started construction of an adobe fort on the California, road, on an
+eminence overlooking the valley. This fort, 150 feet square, had walls,
+upon a stone foundation, fourteen feet high, with bastions on the
+southeast and northwest corners. Gates were not procured until the
+following year. Houses were built against the inside of the wall and lots
+were drawn to decide just where each of the brethren should erect his
+dwelling. There was a garden plot, just below, on the creek, and small
+farms were provided nearby. Inside the fort was a schoolhouse, in which
+meetings also were held, this indicating that families soon followed the
+pioneer missionaries. It is told that "the gospel was preached and that
+many Indians were converted and baptized."
+
+One of these missionaries was Benjamin Cluff, who in later years became a
+prominent member of the Gila Valley settlements in Arizona. In his
+biography is found notation that the Las Vegas missionaries worked in
+lead mines, assumed to have been those in the Potosi section. Some of
+this lead undoubtedly went back to Utah but, happily, was not used at the
+time of the 1858 invasion.
+
+Another notable member was Wm. C. A. Smoot who died in Salt Lake City in
+the spring of 1920, and who was one of the original Pioneers who reached
+Salt Lake July 24, 1847. Having been the last of the first pioneer
+company to enter the valley, it was quite in keeping that he was the last
+of the company to leave the valley for the celestial shores.
+
+Here there might be notation that of the venerated Salt Lake Pioneers,
+the following-named later had residence in Arizona: Edmund Ellsworth,
+Charles Shumway, Edson Whipple, Francis M. Pomeroy, Conrad Klineman,
+Andrew S. Gibbons and Joseph Matthews.
+
+Of the Pioneers of especial distinction, the following-named were later
+visitors to Arizona: Brigham Young, Wilford Woodruff, Geo. A. Smith,
+Erastus Snow, Amasa M. Lyman and Lorenzo D. Young.
+
+Missionaries John Steele and Wm. A. Follett were former Battalion
+members.
+
+Rufus C. Allen, who was Private No. 1 of the First Company of the Mormon
+Battalion, returned from Chile to become a missionary in the Las Vegas
+section and in the Virgin River country. One of Allen's daughters, Mrs.
+Rachael Berry of St. Johns, represented Apache County in the House of
+Representatives of Arizona's Second State Legislature, in 1915.
+
+
+Diplomatic Dealings with the Redskins
+
+With the exception of the missionaries and the travelers between Utah and
+San Bernardino, the white man had little place in the southern point of
+Nevada in the early days. At hand, however, is a tale of the adventures
+of Ira Hatch, who was sent into the lonely, barren desert in the hope
+that something of missionary value might be done with the Indians. These
+Indians, Paiutes, were described as "always ready to attack the weak and
+defenseless traveler, including any opportunity to prey upon the animals
+of the watchful and strong." Nevertheless missionaries from southern Utah
+attempted Christianization. Whatever their degree of success, and though
+often in serious danger, they made the redskins understand that,
+personally, they were friendly. This missionary effort, it was hoped,
+would serve to make safer the through road.
+
+Elder Hatch, in January, 1858, was sent alone into the Muddy Valley, 100
+miles from the nearest settlement, Santa Clara. He was among the savages
+for two weeks, camped in a broken-down wagon left by one of the Crismons.
+His main trouble was in saving food from the Indians, who descended upon
+him like locusts and manifested their friendliness by stealing everything
+they could carry away. Hatch held the fort, however, translating and
+serving as guide for travelers, and occasionally having to threaten with
+his pistol redskins who menaced him with their bows and arrows.
+
+After a fortnight, Jacob Hamblin sent him a companion, Thales Haskell,
+another noted pioneer, and together the two spent the balance of the
+winter in the lonely outpost. There was an interesting diversion in the
+passage of Col. Thos. L. Kane, the statesman who had done so much for
+the Mormon people at the time of exodus from Nauvoo and who later served
+so effectively as a mediator between Deseret and the national government.
+Kane, with a party, was on his way from California to Salt Lake. He had
+an idea of creating a haven of refuge for beleagured travelers in a cave
+about sixty miles northeast of Overton. In this cave he had placed
+bottles of medicine, which he wished the Indians to understand was good
+only for white men. This refuge he called the "Travelers' Home." It had
+been known as "Dr. Osborn's Cave."
+
+A number of the Indians were gathered and a treaty was concluded. At this
+meeting there developed the unusual condition that Hatch had spent so
+much time with the Indians that his English was very imperfect and
+broken, while Colonel Kane's language was of cultured sort, unfamiliar
+and almost unintelligible to Hatch. So a third person (Amasa M. Lyman)
+had to interpret between Kane and Hatch and the latter then interpreted
+to the Indians, the return message going the same route back to the
+Colonel. Inasmuch as the treaty had been upon the basis of certain trade
+articles that were to have been furnished by the Utah Indian agent, and
+were not furnished, the contract was not completed. Ammon M. Tenney, a
+mere lad, spent several months in Las Vegas at that time. Hatch and
+Haskell returned to their homes in Utah in March, 1858.
+
+
+Near Approaches to Indian Warfare
+
+Continual trouble was known with the Indians, though, after a few years,
+was written, "many of the Indians are being taught to labor and are
+learning better things than to rob and murder."
+
+When the first agricultural settlers came, they were visited by
+To-ish-obe, principal chief of the Muddy Indians, and a party of other
+redskins, who transmitted information that had been sent them to the
+effect that President Erastus Snow had planned to poison the Muddy
+and kill off all the Indians. The chief was disabused of the idea.
+
+The same chief appears to have been decent enough. In February, 1866,
+there is record how he had declared outlaws two Indians who had stolen
+horses and cattle. One of these Indians, Co-quap, was taken prisoner and
+was killed at St. Thomas. About the same time, Indians on the Muddy,
+above Simonsville (a grist mill site), stole wheat from about thirty
+acres and left for the mountains, threatening the Muddy settlers. Within
+a month, 32 head of horses, mules and cattle were driven off by Indians,
+from St. Joseph and Simonsville. An expedition of 25 men started after
+the marauders, but failed to recapture the stock.
+
+Andrew S. Gibbons (who had come in 1864), sought To-ish-obe on the upper
+Muddy, to interpret and make peace, if possible. In June at St. Joseph
+was a conference between Erastus Snow and a group of the leading Indians,
+representing the Santa Clara, Muddy, Colorado and other bands, in all
+seven chiefs and 64 of their men. The conference was an agreeable one and
+it was felt that some good had been done.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN FREDONIA]
+
+[Illustration: WALPI-ONE OF THE HOPI (MOQUI) VILLAGES]
+
+[Illustration: WARREN M. JOHNSON'S HOUSE AT PARIA FERRY]
+
+[Illustration: CROSSING THE COLORADO AT THE PARIA FERRY]
+
+There was more trouble with the Indians in February, 1868, when the
+tribesmen on the upper Muddy, where a new settlement had been formed,
+came to the camp in anger, with blackened faces, armed with bows and
+arrows, to demand pay for grain lands that had been occupied by the
+whites. Gibbons acted as peacemaker, but told, "the fact that the
+brethren were all well armed appeared to pacify the Indians more than any
+arguments." The farmers formed in battle line, with Helaman Pratt as
+captain, Gibbons in front, interpreting.
+
+The Indians of the region, mainly Paiutes, were a never-ending source of
+irritation and of potential danger to the settlers. They had grown fields
+of a few acres along the Muddy and hence resented the coming of the
+settlers who might include the aboriginal farms within their holdings.
+In accordance with the traditional policy of the Church, however,
+conciliation was used wherever possible, though the settlers sometimes,
+when goaded to the last extremity, had to exhibit firearms and make a
+show of force.
+
+In 1868, Joseph W. Young wrote, "These Indians were considered about the
+worst specimens of the race. They lived almost in a state of nudity and
+were among the worst thieves on the continent. But through the kind,
+though determined, course pursued towards them by our brethren who have
+been among them, they are greatly changed for the better, and I believe I
+may safely say that they are the best workers of all the tribes. They
+are, nevertheless, Indians, and much wisdom is required to get along with
+them pleasantly. Brother Andrew Gibbons is worthy of honorable mention,
+because of the good influence that he maintains over these rude men."
+
+In November, 1870, the Indians were reported "very hostile and saucy."
+The Chemehuevis and Mohaves were at war. A band of the former, about 100
+or more, came into the Muddy Valley. In December a band of Wallapai came
+for a friendly visit.
+
+
+Utilization of the Colorado River
+
+The Colorado River drains nearly all the lands of present Mormon
+settlement, mainly lying betwixt the Rockies and the Sierras. The
+Colorado, within the United States is reckoned as only inferior to the
+Mississippi-Missouri and Columbia, with an annual flow sufficient to
+supply for irrigation needs about 20,000,000 acre feet of water. It has a
+drainage area of 244,000 square miles and a length of 1700 miles. It is
+of torrential character, very big indeed in the late spring and early
+summer and very low most of the remainder of the year. In years, not far
+distant, there will be storage dams at many points, to hold back the
+springtime floods from the melting of the snows of the Rockies, and from
+the river's flow will be generated electric power for the turning of the
+wheels of the Southwest. All this is in plans made by the League of the
+Southwest, a body now headed by Governor Campbell of Arizona. But these
+things are of the future, and it is the past we especially are
+considering.
+
+Several attempts were made during and prior to the Civil War to make of
+the Colorado a highway through which Utah, southern Nevada and northern
+Arizona might have better transportation. The scheme was not a wild one
+by any means, though handicapped by the difficulties of both the maximum
+and minimum flows.
+
+Inspector General J.F. Rusling had recommended that military supplies for
+the forces in Utah be brought in by way of the Colorado River.
+
+Fort Yuma was visited late in 1854 by Lieut. N. Michler, of the
+Topographical Engineers, who wrote:
+
+"The belief is entertained and strongly advocated that the Colorado will
+be the means of supplying the Mormon territory, instead of the great
+extent of land transportation now used for that purpose.
+
+"Its headquarters approach the large settlements of Utah and may one day
+become the means of bearing away the products of those pioneers of the
+far West. With this idea prominent in the minds of speculators, a city on
+paper, bearing the name of 'Colorado City,' had already been surveyed,
+the streets and blocks marked out and many of them sold. It is situated
+on the east bank, opposite Fort Yuma."
+
+From 1858 to about 1882, even after the Santa Fe railroad had reached
+Needles, there was much traffic on the Colorado. Supplies went by river
+to the mines, which sent downstream occasional shipments of ore. Military
+supplies went by water to Fort Mohave or to Ehrenberg, the latter point a
+depot for Whipple Barracks and other posts. Salt came down stream from
+the Virgin River mines, for use mainly in the amalgamation processes of
+the small stamp mills of the period.
+
+
+Steamboats on the Shallow Stream
+
+Traffic on the river had been established as early as December, 1852.
+Capt. Geo. A. Johnston, an early steamboat pilot, ferried the Beale
+party, in January, 1858, near where Fort Mohave later was established.
+Johnston made several trips far up the river with the Jesup and with a
+newer steamer, the Colorado. He is understood to have gone even farther
+than Lieut. J. C. Ives, of the Topographical Corps, in the little steamer
+Explorer. This stern-wheeler made the trip in January, 1858, and was
+passed by Johnston on his way downstream. The river was at low stage and
+the Explorer butted into snags and muddy banks continually. Finally there
+was disaster when Black Canyon was reached, when the boat ran upon a
+sunken rock. Ives rowed as far up as Vegas Wash.
+
+In 1866, the Arizona Legislature, at Prescott, by resolution thanked
+"Admiral" Robert Rogers, commander of the steamer Esmeralda, and Capt.
+William Gilmore, for the successful accomplishment of the navigation of
+the Colorado River to Callville, "effected by the indomitable energy of
+the enterprising Pacific and Colorado Navigation Co.," a concern managed
+by Thos. E. Trueworthy, an experienced steamboat man from the Sacramento
+River of California. Both Arizona and Nevada Legislatures petitioned
+Congress to improve the stream.
+
+Captain Johnston later formed the Colorado Steam Navigation Company and,
+more or less, controlled the river traffic for years. There were other
+noted Captains, including C.V. Meeden, Isaac Polhamus, A.D. Johnson,
+William Poole, S. Thorn, J.H. Godfrey and J.A. Mellen.
+
+Captain Mellen told that sometimes schooner barges were used in the lower
+canyons, where the wind was either upstream or downstream. When it was
+downstream, the upward-bound craft moored until the breeze changed to
+astern.
+
+The deck hands were Cocopah or Yuma Indians, amphibious, always ready to
+plunge overboard to help in lightening their craft over any of the
+numerous sand bars. Mellen told of lying 52 days in one bar and of often
+being held up for a week. There was no possible mapping of the river
+channel, for the bars changed from week to week. Even in the earliest
+times, steamboats were never molested by the Indians. They seemed in awe
+of the puffing, snorting craft that threw showers of sparks from the
+smokestacks. Not infrequently, a steamer had to tie up for a few days at
+a point where fuel conveniently could be cut from the cottonwood or
+mesquite thickets.
+
+In June, the river is at flood, with danger always present in floating
+trees and driftwood, muddy torrents coming from the melting snows of the
+Rocky Mountains. In the autumn the river falls, until in places there are
+mere trickles around the muddy banks. Navigation, perforce, had to be
+suspended. These were the conditions under which it was proposed to make
+of the Colorado the great trade artery of the inter-mountain region.
+
+The Colorado now absolutely has lost all possibilities for commerce.
+Pioneer conditions are about the same as far southward as the Laguna dam.
+This structure, built to divert water for the Yuma and Imperial valleys,
+absolutely bars the river channel for navigation. Above it and below it
+now are only ferries and a few power boats. The great Imperial canal
+system, at a point below Yuma, for much of the year drains the river
+flow. Where good-sized steamers once plied from tidewater, at the head of
+the Gulf of California, now, for months at a time, is only a dry sand
+wash. To this extent the advance of civilization has obliterated a river
+that ranks, in geography at least, among the greatest streams of the
+United States.
+
+
+Establishing a River Port
+
+Callville, established on the Colorado by Anson Call in December, 1864,
+for a while was the southernmost outpost of Mormon settlement. Call
+himself was a pioneer of most vigorous sort. November 24,1851, he was one
+of the founders of Fillmore, Millard County, 150 miles south of Salt
+Lake, a settlement for a while the capital of the Territory of Utah,
+created during the administration of President Millard Fillmore in 1850.
+In the following year he built Call's Fort in Box Elder County, in the
+extreme northern part of Utah.
+
+In a compilation made by Andrew Jenson is found definite statement that
+the settlement made by Anson Call on the Colorado was "as agent for the
+Trustee in Trust (the President) of the Church in December, 1864,
+according to a plan which was conceived of at that time to bring the
+Church immigration from Europe to Utah via Panama, the Gulf of California
+and up the river to this landing." In conjunction with this, a number of
+leading merchants of Salt Lake City combined to build a warehouse on the
+Colorado, with a view to bringing goods in by the river route. This
+company also constituted Anson Call its agent. November 1, Call was
+directed to take a suitable company, locate a road to the Colorado,
+explore the river, find a suitable place for a warehouse, build it and
+form a settlement at or near the landing. All these things he
+accomplished. At St. George he employed Jacob Hamblin and son, Angus M.
+Cannon and Dr. Jas. M. Whitmore.
+
+The journal of travel tells of leaving the mouth of the Muddy, continuing
+down the Virgin twelve miles, thence up what was named Echo Wash, twelve
+miles, and thence twenty miles, generally southwestward, to the Colorado,
+a mile below the narrows, above the mouth of Black Canyon, where, on
+December 2, was found a black rocky point, considered a suitable spot for
+the erection of a warehouse, above high-water mark. This later was named
+Callville.
+
+With the exception of a small bottom around the warehouse site, the
+country was considered most barren and uninviting. Two and a half miles
+down the river was the mouth of Las Vegas Wash, up which Call and party
+traveled to old Fort Vegas, where a half-dozen men were found
+established. In the company's journeyings, El Dorado Canyon was found
+occupied by miners and there were some adventurers on Cottonwood Island,
+a tract of bottom land nearby. The expedition was ferried across the
+Colorado to Hardy's Landing, 337 miles above Yuma. Hardy had a rather
+extensive establishment, with a store, warehouse, hotel, blacksmith shop,
+carpenter shop and several dwelling houses. Possibly notable was the
+launching at that time of the barge "Arizona," fifty feet long and ten
+feet wide, sharp at both ends and flat-bottomed.
+
+By river there was a visit to Fort Mohave. This, garrisoned by forty
+soldiers of the California Column, was of log and willow houses, the
+latter wattled and daubed with mud. There was reference by Call to the
+Colorado River mosquito, described as "very large."
+
+Returning to Call's Landing, there were measured off forty lots, each 100
+feet square, and a start was made by leaving Thomas Davids and Lyman
+Hamblin, on December 18, to dig the foundation of the warehouse.
+
+This expedition made a preliminary survey of the Muddy and declared
+settlement upon the stream entirely feasible.
+
+Wm. H. Hardy of Hardyville, or Hardy's Landing, was not at home when
+Anson Call visited in December, but returned soon thereafter and, January
+2, 1865, started northward with his new barge, propelled by poles and
+oars and a sail. A distance of 150 miles by river was made in twelve
+days. Though later some jealousy was expressed over the activities at
+Callville, Hardy proffered all possible assistance and expressed belief
+that from July to November steamers could ply from the mouth of the
+Colorado to Call's Landing. The warehouse was built, but appears to
+have been little used. Capt. Geo. A. Johnston had submitted the Church
+authorities formal proposals to ship direct from New York to the mouth of
+the river, in barques of about 600 tons burden, preferably arriving at
+the river mouth in the fall. The cost of freight from New York to the
+river mouth was set at $16 a ton, and the cost to El Dorado Canyon at
+$65, but, figuring currency at 50 cents, the freight was estimated to
+cost $7.16 per 100 pounds in currency.
+
+In March, 1865, Capt. Thos. E. Trueworthy, told of opposition at Hardy's
+Landing to the establishment of Callville. He had started for Call's
+Landing with 100 tons of freight, including 35,000 feet of lumber, to
+find that Call had returned to Utah. Trueworthy left his boat and cargo
+below Callville and went on to Salt Lake. He stated the trip from the
+mouth to Call's Landing would take a boat a month, there being difficulty
+in passing rapids and in finding wood for fuel.
+
+Historian B.H. Roberts states:
+
+"There was shipment of some goods from that point, though at first there
+were some disappointments and dissatisfaction among the Salt Lake
+merchants who patronized the route. Two steamboats, the Esmeralda and
+Nina Tilden made the trip somewhat regularly from the mouth of the
+Colorado to Call's Landing, connecting with steamships plying between the
+mouth of the Colorado and San Francisco. The owners of the river boats
+carried a standing advertisement in the Salt Lake Telegraph, thus seeking
+trade, up to December 1, 1866. Doubtless the certainty of the early
+completion of the transcontinental railroad from the Missouri River to
+the Pacific Ocean stopped the development of this southwest route for
+immigration and freight, via Utah's southern settlements and the Colorado
+River."
+
+The port of Callville had only a short life. In June, 1869, the Deseret
+News printed an article that Callville then had been abandoned. This was
+in connection with the escape of three horsethieves from St. George.
+These men wrenched four large doors from the Callville warehouse for the
+construction of a raft, upon which they committed themselves to the river
+at flood time, leaving horses and impedimenta behind. Whether they
+escaped has not been chronicled.
+
+As late as 1892, the walls of the old storehouse still were standing, the
+only remaining evidences of a scheme of broad ambition designed to
+furnish a new supply route for a region comprising at least one-fourth of
+the national expanse.
+
+[Illustration: PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG AND PARTY AT THE MOUTH OF THE
+VIRGIN, MARCH 17, 1870. Others in the party are: Amelia Young, Geo. A.
+Smith, Bathsheba W. Smith, John Taylor, Erastus Snow, Minerva Snow, Jos.
+W., Lorenzo D. and Brigham Young, Jr., B.S. and Albert C. Young, A.S.
+Gibbons, Jno. W. Young, Nathaniel V. Jones, John Squires, Joseph Asay,
+Van Ettu, Levi Stewart. Photo by C.R. Savage]
+
+[Illustration: BAPTISM OF SEVERAL HUNDRED SHIVWITS INDIANS BY DAVID H.
+CANNON AT ST. GEORGE]
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Eleven
+
+In the Virgin and Muddy Valleys
+
+
+First Agriculture in Northern Arizona
+
+There can be no doubt that the first agricultural settlement in northern
+Arizona was by a Mormon party, led by Henry W. Miller, which made
+location at Beaver Dams, on the north bank of the Virgin River on the
+earlier Mormon road to California. On a tract of land lying six miles
+below the point where the river emerges from a box canyon, land was
+cleared in the fall of 1864, crops were put in "and then the enterprise
+was dedicated to the Lord," according to a report by the leader at Salt
+Lake. An item in the Deseret News tells that Miller was "called" in the
+fall of 1863 to go to the Virgin.
+
+Early in 1865, another report told, "affairs in the settlement are
+progressing very satisfactorily. A large number of fruit trees and
+grapevines have been set out. Corn, wheat and other vegetation are
+growing thriftily and the settlers are very industriously prosecuting
+their several useful vocations, with good prospects of success."
+
+There was notation of some trouble because beavers were numerous and
+persisted in damming irrigation ditches. In 1867 a river flood destroyed
+much of the results of the colonists' labors and there was abandonment of
+the location. Between 1875 and 1878 settlers began to come again and a
+thriving community now is in existence at that point, known as
+Littlefield. It is to benefit in large degree by plans approved by the
+Arizona Water Commissioner, for damming of the canyon for storage of
+water to irrigate land of the Virgin Valley toward the southwest.
+Littlefield is the extreme northwestern settlement of the present Arizona
+five miles south of the Utah line and three miles east of the Nevada
+line.
+
+In the same fall conference of 1864 that sent Anson Call on his
+pioneering expedition, there was designation of a large number (183,
+according to Christopher Layton) of missionaries, to proceed, with their
+families, to the Muddy and lower Virgin, thereon to establish colonies
+that might serve as stations in the great movement toward the Pacific.
+Undoubtedly, full information was at hand concerning the country and its
+possibilities, for the colonists began to arrive January 8, 1865, before
+there could have been formulation of Call's report. Thos. S. Smith was in
+charge of the migration, and after him was named St. Thomas, one of the
+settlements. May 28, Andrew S. Gibbons settled at St. Thomas, sent as
+Indian interpreter. Joseph Warren Foote led in a new settlement at St.
+Joseph.
+
+
+Villages of Pioneer Days
+
+In what was known as the Muddy section, comprising the valleys of the
+lower Virgin River and its main lower tributary, the Muddy, were seven
+settlements of Mormon origin, during the time when the locality was
+included in the area of Arizona. These settlements were Beaver Dams
+on the Virgin, St. Thomas, on the Muddy, about two and a half miles from
+its junction with the Virgin, Overton, on the same side of the Muddy
+Valley, about eight miles northwest of St. Thomas, St. Joseph, which lay
+on the opposite side of the stream, five miles to the northward, West
+Point (now Logan), on the west bank, possibly fifteen miles west of St.
+Joseph, and Mill Point and Simonsville between St. Joseph and Overton. To
+these was addition of the port of Callville. Nearly westward from the
+last-named point was Las Vegas Springs, distant about twenty miles, a
+camping point on the road between San Bernardino and Salt Lake, and
+permanent residence of missionaries. In later days were established
+Junction City, otherwise Rioville, at the mouth of the Virgin,
+Bunkerville on the east bank of the Virgin, three miles west of the later
+Arizona line, and Mesquite, which lay east across the river.
+
+The valley of the Virgin offered very limited opportunities for
+settlement, as the stream, an alkaline one, usually ran between deep
+cliffs. The Muddy, however, despite its name, was a clear stream of
+slight fall, with a lower valley two miles wide, continuing, upstream,
+northwesterly for eighteen miles. A number of swamps had to be drained by
+the first residents. These people constructed a canal, nine miles long,
+on the southwest side and were preparing to dig a similar canal on the
+opposite side when there was abandonment.
+
+St. Thomas has been described as a beautiful village, its streets
+outlined by rows of tall cottonwoods that still survive. There were 85
+city lots of one acre each, about the same number of vineyard lots, two
+and a half acres each, and of farm lots of five acres.
+
+St. Joseph mainly comprised a fort on a high bluff, from which the town
+had been laid out on a level bench west and northward. It included a
+flour mill, owned by James Leithead. In August, 1868, the fort was almost
+destroyed by fire, which burned up nineteen rooms and most of their
+contents, the meetinghouse and a cotton gin also being included in the
+destruction. There was a stiff gale and most of the men were absent.
+
+Every settlement along the Virgin and Muddy was organized into a communal
+system, the United Order. Of this there will be found more detail in
+Chapter Twelve of this work.
+
+At St. Joseph, June 10, 1869, was organized a cooperative mercantile
+institution for the Muddy settlement, with Joseph W. Young at its head,
+R.J. Cutler as secretary and James Leithead as business agent.
+
+There were the usual casualties of the desert country. In June, James
+Davidson, wife and son died of thirst on the road from the Muddy
+settlements to St. George, their journey delayed on the desert by the
+breaking of a wagon wheel.
+
+On a visit made by Erastus Snow and company in the summer of 1869, the
+Muddy settlements subscribed heavily toward the purchase of stock in a
+cotton factory at St. George, and toward extension of the Deseret
+telegraph line. In the record of this company's journey it is told that
+the Virgin River was crossed 37 times before arrival at St. Thomas.
+
+The condition of the brethren late in 1870 was set forth by James
+Leithead as something like destitution. He wrote that, "many are nearly
+naked for want of clothing. We can sell nothing we have for money, and
+the cotton, what little there is, appears to be of little help in that
+direction. There are many articles we are more in need of than the cloth,
+such as boots and shoes and tools of various kinds to work with."
+
+
+Brigham Young Makes Inspection
+
+President Brigham Young was a visitor to the Muddy settlements in March
+of 1870. Ammon M. Tenney states that the President was disappointed, for
+he found conditions unfavorable for agriculture or commercial
+development. The journey southward was by way of St. George, Utah, a
+point frequently visited by the Presidency. The return journey was
+northward, by the desert route. In the party were John Taylor, later
+President of the Church, Erastus Snow, Geo. A. Smith, Brigham Young, Jr.,
+Andrew S. Gibbons and other notables. In the fall (September 10), was
+authorized the founding of Kanab. From St. George the President followed
+the rough road through Arizona to the Paria, personally visiting and
+selecting the site of Kanab. Very opportunely, from D.K. Udall, lately
+was received a photograph of the Young party (herewith reproduced), taken
+March 17 on a mesa overlooking the Colorado at the mouth of the Virgin.
+Here may be noted that every president of the Mormon Church, with the
+exception of Joseph Smith, the founder, and Lorenzo Snow has set foot on
+Arizona soil.
+
+
+Nevada Assumes Jurisdiction
+
+The beginning of the end of the early Muddy settlements came in a letter
+from the Church Presidency, dated December 14, 1870, addressed to James
+Leithead, in charge. It referred to the Nevada survey, placing the
+settlements within the jurisdiction of that State, the onerous taxes,
+license and stamp duties imposed, the isolation from the market, the high
+rate at which property is assessed in Nevada, the unscrupulous character
+of many officials, all as combining to render conditions upon the Muddy
+matters of grave consideration, even though the country occupied might be
+desirable. The settlers, it was said, had done a noble work, making and
+sustaining their outposts of Zion against many difficulties, amid
+exposure and toil. It was advised that the settlers petition the Nevada
+Legislature for an abatement of back taxes and for a new county, but,
+"if the majority of the Saints in council determine that it is better to
+leave the State, whose burdens and laws are so oppressive, let it be so
+done." There was suggestion that if the authorities of Lincoln County,
+Nevada, chose to enforce tax collections, it might be well to forestall
+the seizure of property, to remove it out of the jurisdiction of the
+State.
+
+
+The Nevada Point Abandoned
+
+December 20, 1870, the people of the Muddy met with John W. Young of Salt
+Lake and resolved to abandon the location and to look for new homes. The
+only opposing votes were those of Daniel Bonelli and wife. Bonelli later
+was a ferryman on the Colorado and his son now is a prominent resident of
+Mohave County. Among those who voted to move were a number who later were
+residents of the Little Colorado settlements of Arizona.
+
+In accordance with the suggestion from Salt Lake, the Nevada Legislature
+was petitioned for relief. It was told that seven years before had been
+established St. Joseph and St. Thomas. Thereafter Congress had taken one
+degree of longitude from Utah and Arizona and attached this land to
+Nevada. Taxes had been paid in Utah and Arizona. For two years the
+authorities of Lincoln County, Nevada, had attempted to assess the back
+taxes. To the Nevada authorities was presented statement of a number of
+facts, that $100,000 had been expended on water projects, that the
+settlers had been compelled to feed the Indian population, outnumbering
+their own, and that they had been so remote from markets that produce
+could not be converted into cash. It was asked that a new county, that of
+Las Vegas, be organized, taking in the southern point of Nevada. Attached
+to the petition were 111 names of citizens of St. Joseph, Overton and St.
+Thomas.
+
+A similar petition was sent to Congress. There was detail how lumber had
+to be hauled 150 miles at a cost of $200 per 1000 feet. There had been
+constructed 150 dwellings. Orchards and vineyards had been planted and
+500 acres of cotton fields had been cleared. In all 3000 acres were
+cultivated. Nevada had imposed a tax of 3 per cent upon all taxable
+property and $4 poll tax per individual, all payable in gold, something
+impossible. It therefore was asked that Congress cede back to Utah and
+Arizona both portions of country detached from them and attached to
+Nevada.
+
+At that time, the State gave the Muddy-Virgin settlement a population of
+600. St. Joseph had 193, St. Thomas about 150, West Point 138 and Overton
+119. In other settlements around, namely Spring Valley, Eagle Valley,
+Rye Valley, Rose Valley, Panaca and Clover, were 658, possibly two score
+of them not being of the Church. Thus was shown a gross population of
+1250.
+
+Most of the settlers on the Muddy left early in 1871, the exodus starting
+February 1. On returning to Utah, very largely to Long Valley, they left
+behind their homes, irrigating canals, orchards and farms. The crops,
+including 8000 bushels of wheat, were left to be harvested by an
+individual who failed to comply with his part of the contract and who
+later tore down most of the remaining houses.
+
+
+Political Organization Within Arizona
+
+Including practically all the Mormons then resident within the new
+Territory of Arizona, the first Arizona county to be created by
+additional legislative enactment, following the Howell Code, was that of
+Pah-ute, in December, 1865, by the first act approved in the Second
+Arizona Territorial Legislative Assembly. The boundaries of the county
+were described as: Commencing at a point on the Colorado River known as
+Roaring Rapids; thence due east to the line of 113 deg. 20 min. west
+longitude; thence north along said line of longitude, to its point of
+intersection with the 37th parallel of north latitude; thence west, along
+said parallel of latitude, to a point where the boundary line between the
+State of California and the Territory of Arizona strikes said 37th
+parallel of latitude; thence southeasterly along said boundary line, to a
+point due west from said Roaring Rapids; thence due east to said Roaring
+Rapids and point of beginning. Callville was created the seat of justice
+and the governor was authorized to appoint the necessary county officers.
+
+The new subdivision was taken entirely from Mohave County, which retained
+the southernmost part of the Nevada point. It may be noted that its
+boundaries were entirely arbitrary and not natural and the greater part
+of the new county's area lay in what now is Nevada. October 1, 1867, the
+county seat was moved to St. Thomas. November 5, 1866, a protest was sent
+in an Arizona memorial to Congress against the setting off to the State
+of Nevada of that part of the Territory west of the Colorado. The grant
+of this tract to Nevada under the terms of a congressional act approved
+May 5, 1866, had been conditioned on similar acceptance by the
+Legislature of Nevada. This was done January 18, 1867.
+
+Without effect, the Arizona Legislature twice petitioned Congress to
+rescind its action, alleging, "it is the unanimous wish of the
+inhabitants of Pah-ute and Mohave Counties and indeed of all the
+constituents of your memorialists that the territory in question should
+remain with Arizona; for the convenient transaction of official and other
+business, and on every account they greatly desire it." But Congress
+proved obdurate and Nevada refused to give up the strip and the County of
+Pah-ute, deprived of most of her area, finally was wiped out by the
+Arizona Legislature in 1871. At one time there was claim that St. George
+and a very wide strip of southern Utah really belonged to Arizona.
+
+
+Pah-ute's Political Vicissitudes
+
+In the Second Legislature, at Prescott, in 1865, at the time of the
+creation of Pah-ute County, northwest Arizona, or Mohave County, was
+represented in the Council by W. H. Hardy of Hardyville and in the House
+by Octavius D. Gass of Callville. In the Third Legislature, which met at
+Prescott, October 3, 1866, Pah-ute was represented in the Council by
+Gass, who was honored by election as president of the body, in which he
+also served as translator and interpreter. He was described as a very
+able man, though rough of speech. He explored many miles of the lower
+Grand Canyon. He was not a Mormon, but evidently was held in high esteem
+by his constituents, who elected him to office in Arizona as long as they
+had part in its politics. Royal J. Cutler of Mill Point represented the
+county in the House of Representatives.
+
+In the Fourth Legislature, which met at Prescott, September 4, 1867,
+Gass, who had moved to Las Vegas, was returned to the Council where again
+he was chosen president, and Cutler, who had moved to St. Joseph, again
+was in the House. On the record of the Legislature's proceedings, Gass is
+styled "ranchero" and Cutler "farmer."
+
+Though most of the area of Pah-ute County already had been wiped out by
+congressional enactment and given to Nevada, Gass again was in the
+Legislature in 1868, in the fifth session, which met in Tucson, December
+10. The House member was Andrew S. Gibbons of St. Thomas, a senior member
+of a family that since has had much to do with the development of
+northeastern Arizona. A very interesting feature in connection with this
+final service in the Legislature, was the fact that Gass and Gibbons
+floated down the Colorado River to Yuma and thence took conveyance to
+Tucson. They were in a fourteen-foot boat that had been built at St.
+Thomas by James Leithead. Gibbons' son, William H. (now resident at St.
+Johns), hauled the craft to Callville, twenty miles, and there sped the
+legislators.
+
+At the outset, there was necessity for the voyageurs to pass through the
+rapids of Black Canyon, an exciting experience, not unmixed with danger.
+Gibbons knew something of boating and so was at the oars. Gass, seated
+astern, firmly grabbed the gunwales, shut his eyes and trusted himself in
+the rapids to providence and his stout companion, with at least one
+fervent admonition, "For God's sake, Andy, keep her pointed down stream."
+The passage was made in safety, though both men were soaked by the
+dashing spray.
+
+The start was made November 1. By day all possible progress was made, the
+boat being kept in midstream and away from bushes, for fear of ambush by
+Indians. At night a place for camp would be selected in a secluded spot
+and a fire would be lighted only when safety seemed assured.
+
+There was some delay in securing transportation eastward from Fort Yuma.
+Indians had been active along the stage route and had just waylaid a
+coach and killed its driver. Thus it came that the members from Pah-ute
+were six days late in their taking seats in the territorial assembly.
+
+At the close of the legislative session, Gibbons journeyed home on
+horseback, for much of the way through districts infested by wild Indians
+of several tribes, a trip of at least 500 miles. Gass went to California
+before returning home. Such a return journey is not mentioned, however,
+in an interesting record, furnished the Author by A.V., Richard and Wm.
+H. Gibbons, sons of the pioneer.
+
+Royal J. Cutler, on April 3, 1869, came again into official notice as
+clerk of the Probate and County Court of Rio Virgen County, which had
+been created out of the western part of Washington County, Utah, by the
+Utah Legislature. The first session of the court was at St. Joseph, with
+Joseph W. Young as magistrate. This county organization is not
+understood, even under the hypothesis that Utah claimed a sixty-mile
+strip of Nevada, for St. Joseph, on the Muddy, lies a considerable
+distance south of the extension of the southern Utah line, the 37th
+parallel.
+
+A tax was levied of one-half of 1 per cent, this later increased to
+three-quarters of 1 per cent. Direct taxes in 1869 had been received of
+$156.19, and the amount transferred from Pah-ute County was $24.10, a
+total of $180.29, which hardly could be considered an onerous levy or fat
+treasury for the support of a political subdivision. The treasurer had on
+hand $28.55 in cash, $20 in flour and $12.45 in wheat.
+
+
+Later Settlement in "The Point"
+
+Bunkerville, settled January 6, 1877, was named for Edward Bunker, a
+member of the Mormon Battalion. Latterly to a degree it has become
+connected with Arizona through the fact that lands in its vicinity are to
+be irrigated from a reservoir to be established upon the Virgin within
+Arizona. January 24, 1877, there were visitors of notable sort, Capt.
+Daniel W. Jones and company, on their way to a location in the Salt River
+Valley of Arizona. Bunkerville had elaborate organization under the
+United Order, and it is agreed that the large amount of irrigation work
+accomplished hardly could have been done under any other plan. The
+organization lasted until the summer of 1879, it being found that some of
+the members, "through their economy and industry were gathering and,
+laying up in abundance, while others, through carelessness and bad
+management, were wasting the funds of the company, each year being
+increasing in debt." This was very unsatisfactory to those whose ambition
+was to assure at least the necessaries of life.
+
+The Mesquite settlement, across the Virgin from Bunkerville, was
+established in 1880, but was abandoned a few years later, again to be
+settled in 1895, from Utah.
+
+There was a returning of the Saints to the Muddy Valley early in 1881,
+the Patterson ranch, which included the town of Overton, being purchased
+by Mrs. Elizabeth Whitmore of St. George. Among the names of the settlers
+was at least one of Arizona association, that of Jesse W. Crosby. In
+1892, when visited by Andrew Jenson, in the locality of the main four
+settlements of the older occupation were only a score of families.
+
+
+Salt Mountains of the Virgin
+
+Arizona lost one asset of large value in the transfer of the Virgin River
+section to Nevada. Therein is an enormous salt deposit, locally called
+the Salt Mountain, though three such deposits are along the Virgin
+between St. Thomas and the Colorado River. One of them is described as
+cropping out along the foot of a high bluff of brown clay, exposed for 80
+feet in height from the base of the hill, though the depth below its
+surface is unknown. The salt is obtained by blasting, as it is too hard
+to dig with picks. It is of excellent quality and of remarkable purity.
+In early days, from this deposit was obtained the salt needed in southern
+Nevada, southwestern Utah and much of Arizona, steamers carrying it down
+the Colorado southward. W. H. Johnson was in early charge of the salt
+mines. His widow now is resident in Mesa.
+
+
+Peaceful Frontier Communities
+
+Writing about Overton, an early historian gives details of the happiness
+that comes to an individual who relies wholly upon the produce of his
+land and who lives apart from what is called civilization and its evils.
+He tells of the sense of comfort, security and satisfaction felt by the
+brethren who own the land whereon their homes are set and are not afraid
+of a little expense of bone and muscle to sustain themselves comfortably.
+
+They dress as well or better than those in more favored circumstances,
+set a plentiful table and enjoy such peace and quiet that seldom falls to
+the lot of people in these troublous times. No profaning is heard; the
+smoking, chewing and drinking habits are strangers to the "hope of
+Israel" here; no racing of horses at breakneck speed through the streets
+is endured in our peaceful little town; in fact the only complaint is,
+and not without just cause, that it is rather too quiet.
+
+Along this same line, Dellenbaugh wrote of the southern Utah settlements:
+
+"As pioneers the Mormons were superior to any class I have ever come in
+contact with, their idea being homemaking and not skimming the cream off
+the country with a six-shooter and a whiskey bottle. One of the first
+things the Mormon always did in establishing a new settlement was to
+plant fruit, shade trees and vines and the like, so that in a very few
+years there was a condition of comfort only attained by a non-Mormon
+settlement after the lapse of a quarter of a century. Dancing is a
+regular amusement among the Mormons and is encouraged by the authorities
+as a harmless and beneficial recreation. The dances were always opened by
+prayer."
+
+In the journal of Major J.W. Powell, under date of August 30, 1869, there
+is special mention of the hospitable character of the Mormons of the
+Virgin River section. They had been advised by Brigham Young to look out
+for the Powell expedition and Asa (Joseph Asay) and his sons continued to
+watch the river, though a false report had come that the Powell
+expedition was lost. They were looking for wreckage that might give some
+indication of the fate of the explorers when Powell's boats appeared.
+Powell was very appreciative of Asaqy's kindness and wrote
+enthusiastically of the coming, next day from St. Thomas, of James
+Leithead, with a wagonload of supplies that included melons.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twelve
+
+The United Order
+
+
+Development of a Communal System
+
+At one stage of Church development there was disposition to favor the
+establishment in each village of the Saints of communal conditions,
+wherein work should be done according to the ability of the individual.
+Crops and the results of all industry were to be gathered at a common
+center for common benefit. Something of the same sort was known among the
+Shakers and other religious sects in eastern states. Thus in Utah was
+founded the United Order, which, however, at no time had any direct
+connection with the central Church organization.
+
+The best development of the idea was at Brigham City, Utah, sixty miles
+north of Salt Lake City, where the movement was kept along business
+lines by none other than Lorenzo Snow, later President of the Church of
+Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and the officer credited with having
+first put that great organization upon a business footing. He established
+a communal system that proved a potent beneficial force both for the
+individual and the community. The start was in 1864, with the
+establishment of a mercantile business, from which there were successive
+expansions to include about forty industries, such as factories at which
+were made felt and straw hats, clothing, pottery, brooms and brushes,
+harnesses and saddles, furniture, vehicles and tinware, while there were
+three sawmills, a large woolen mill and a cotton goods mill, the last
+with large attached cotton acreage, in southern Utah. There were 5000
+sheep, 1000 head of stock cattle and 500 cows, supplying a model dairy
+and the community meat market. The settlement was self-clothed and
+self-fed. Education had especial attention and all sorts of entertainment
+of meritorious character were fostered. Members of the Order labored in
+their own industries, were paid good wages in scrip and participated in
+the growth of general values. In 1875 the value of the products reached
+$260,000.
+
+By 1879 there had been departure from the complete unity of the United
+Order plan, though eleven departments still remained intact. There had
+been adverse circumstances, through which in nine months had been lost
+about $53,000. The woolen mill, a model, twice had been destroyed by
+fire. There had been jealousies outside the movement, through which a
+profitable railroad contract had been ruined, and federal authorities had
+taxed the scrip issue about $10,000 per annum. The first assessment was
+paid, but later was turned back. But, with all these reverses piled upon
+the people, the unity remained intact, and today, upon the foundation
+laid by the United Order and its revered local leader, Brigham City is
+one of the most prosperous communities of the intermountain region.
+
+Edward Bellamy, the writer, became so much interested in what he had
+heard of the United Order in Brigham City, that he made a special trip to
+Utah in 1886, to study its operation. He spent three days with President
+Lorenzo Snow, listening to his experiences and explanation of the
+movement. As a result of this lengthy interview, Mr. Bellamy, the
+following year, wrote his book, "Looking Backward."
+
+Another example of the operation of the United Order was in Kane County,
+Utah, about eighteen miles north of the Arizona line. In March, 1871,
+there was re-settlement of Long Valley, where two towns, Berryville and
+Winsor, had been deserted because of Indian encroachments. The new
+settlers mainly came from the breaking up of the Muddy Mission
+settlements in Nevada, Long Valley having been suggested by President
+Brigham Young as a possible location. About 200 of the former Muddy
+residents entered the valley in March, 1871, founding Glendale and Mount
+Carmel. The residents of the latter, in March, 1874, organized into the
+United Order. The following year, a number who wished to practice the
+Order in its fullness, founded a new settlement, midway between Glendale
+and Mount Carmel, and named it Orderville. This settlement still is in
+existence, though the communistic plan had to be broken up about 1883,
+there having arisen a spirit of competition and of individual ambition.
+The plan of operation was comprehensive of many features, yet simple. The
+community ate in a common dining hall, with kitchen and bakery attached.
+Dwelling houses were close together and built in the form of a square.
+There were work shops, offices, schoolhouse, etc., and manufactories of
+lumber and woolen products.
+
+
+Not a General Church Movement
+
+There had been an idea among the adherents to the Order that they were
+fulfilling a Church commandment. They were disabused by Apostle Erastus
+Snow, who suggested that each occupation be taken up by small companies,
+each to run a different department. There was conference with the First
+Presidency, but the Church declined responsibility sought to be thrown
+upon it. So there were many defections, though for years thereafter there
+was incorporation, to hold the mills and machinery, lands and livestock.
+
+The United Order by no means was general. It was limited to certain
+localities and certain settlements, each of which tried to work out its
+own problems in its own way, entirely without connection with any other
+community of the sort. In a few instances the plan proved successful, but
+usually only where there was some directing leader of integrity and
+business acumen, such as at Brigham City.
+
+[Illustration: FOUNDERS OF THE COLORADO FERRIES
+1--John L. Blythe  2--Harrison Pearce
+3--Daniel  Bonell  4--Anson Call]
+
+[Illustration: Crossing the Colorado River at Scanlon's Ferry]
+
+The United Order principle was used, with varying degrees of relative
+success, in a number of northern Arizona settlements, especially in the
+early camps on the lower Little Colorado, as noted elsewhere.
+
+The Jones party, that founded Lehi, was organized for traveling and
+working under the United Order, drawing from a common storehouse, but
+each family, nevertheless, looked out for its own interest. The United
+Order lasted until the end of Jones' control of the colony.
+
+An attempt was made in the early part of 1880 at Mesa, to organize, under
+the laws of Arizona, to carry out the principles of the United Order as
+far as practicable. A corporation was formed, "The Mesa Union," by
+President Alex. F. Macdonald, Geo. C. Dana, Timothy Mets, Hyrum Smith
+Phelps and Chas. H. Mallory. About the only thing done by this
+organization was to purchase some land, but this land later was taken by
+members of the Church.
+
+
+Mormon Cooperative Stores
+
+In the economy and frugality that marked, necessarily, the early days of
+the Mormon people, there naturally was resort to combination in the
+purchases of supplies and in the marketing of products. When the United
+Order declined, there was resort to another economic pioneer enterprise,
+the cooperative store, established in many of the new communities. Each
+store, to an extent, was under local Church supervision and, while open
+to the trade of all, still was established primarily for the benefit of
+the brethren. Under early-day conditions, the idea undoubtedly was a good
+one. Mercantile profits were left within the community, divided among
+many, while the "Co-op" also served as a means through which the
+community produce could be handled to best advantage.
+
+In the north, June 27, 1881, at Snowflake, with Jesse N. Smith at its
+head, was organized a company that started a cooperative store at
+Holbrook, taking over, largely for debt, a store that had been operated
+by John W. Young at old Holbrook. In January, 1882, this establishment
+was left high and dry by the moving of Holbrook station a mile and a half
+west to Berardo's, or Horsehead Crossing. There was difficulty in getting
+a location at the new site, so this store, in February, 1882, was moved
+to Woodruff.
+
+In January, 1881, at Snowflake was started a "Co-op" that merged into the
+Arizona Cooperative Mercantile Institution. The following month, under
+David K. Udall, a similar institution was opened at St. Johns, where
+there was attached a flouring mill. Both at St. Johns and Snowflake were
+cooperative livestock herds.
+
+One of the most extensive enterprises of this sort was started in Mesa in
+September, 1884, with Chas. I. Robson, George Passey and Oscar M. Stewart
+at its head. The first stock was valued at $45, yet in 1894, the Zenos
+Cooperative Mercantile & Manufacturing Institution had a paid-up capital
+stock of over $25,000 and a two-story building, and had paid dividends
+ranging from 10 to 50 per cent annually.
+
+Almost every phase of communal effort now appears to have been abandoned
+in Arizona Mormon business life, probably because found unnecessary in
+the latter-day development in which the membership of the Church has
+had so large a share.
+
+The Author feels there should be addition of a statement that the Church
+is far from acceptance of the European idea of communism, for one of its
+tenets is, "Thou shalt not be idle, for he that is idle shall not eat of
+the bread nor wear the garments of the laborer." Nothing of political
+socialism ever was known in the United Order.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Thirteen
+
+Spreading Into Northern Arizona
+
+
+Failure of the First Expeditions
+
+The first attempt from the north of the Mormon Church to colonize within
+the present limits of Arizona failed. It was by means of an expedition
+placed in charge of Horton D. Haight. A number of the colonists met March
+8, 1873, in the old tabernacle in Salt Lake City, and there were
+instructed by President Brigham Young. At Winsor Castle they were warned
+to be friendly to but not too trustful of the Indians and not to sell
+them ammunition, "for they are warring against our government." The route
+was by way of Lee's Ferry, the crossing completed May 11. On the 22d was
+reached the Little Colorado, the Rio de Lino (Flax River) of the
+Spaniards. From the ferry to the river had been broken a new road, over a
+tolerably good route. There was no green grass, and water was infrequent,
+even along the Little Colorado, it being found necessary to dig wells in
+the dry channel. Twenty-four miles below Black Falls there was
+encampment, the road blocked by sand drifts.
+
+On June 1 there returned to the expedition in camp an exploring party,
+under Haight, that had been absent eight days and that had traveled 136
+miles up the river. There was report of the trip that the country was
+barren, with narrow river bottoms, with alkaline soil, water bad and
+failing, with no spot found suitable in which to settle. There also
+appeared to be fear of the Apache. So the expedition painfully retraced
+its steps to Navajo Springs, sending ahead a dispatch to President Young,
+giving a full report of conditions and making suggestion that the
+settlement plan had better be abandoned. At Moen Copie on the return was
+met a party of 29 missionaries, under Henry Day.
+
+An interesting journal of the trip was written by Henry Holmes of the
+vanguard. He was especially impressed with the aridity of the country. He
+thought it "barren and forbidding, although doubtless the Lord had a
+purpose in view when He made it so. Few of the creeks ran half a mile
+from their heads. The country is rent with deep chasms, made still deeper
+by vast torrents that pour down them during times of heavy rains." There
+were found petrified trees. One of them was 210 feet long and another was
+over five feet across the butt, this in a land where not a tree or bush
+was found growing. Holmes fervently observed, "However, I do not know
+whether it makes any difference whether the country is barren or
+fruitful, if the Lord has a work to do in it," in this especially
+referring to the Indians, among whom there could be missionary effort.
+Jacob Miller acted as secretary of the expedition.
+
+On the back track, the company all had ferried to the north bank of the
+river by July 7, although there had to be improvised navigation of the
+Colorado, for the ferry-boat had disappeared in the spring flood and all
+that remained was a little skiff, behind which the wagon bodies were
+floated over. In all, were ferried 54 wagons, 112 animals, 109 men, 6
+women and a child.
+
+This first company had been called from different parts of Utah and was
+not at all homogeneous, yet traveled in peace and union. The members
+assembled morning and evening for prayers, at which the blessings of the
+Lord were asked upon themselves and their teams and upon the elements
+that surrounded them.
+
+President Young directed the members of the 1873 party to remain in
+Arizona, but the message was not received till the river had been passed.
+The following year he ordered another expedition southward. According to
+a journal of Wm. H. Solomon, who was clerk of the party, departure from
+Kanab was on February 6, 1874. John L. Blythe (who had remained at Moen
+Copie after the 1873 trip) was in charge. With Blythe was his wife. Ira
+Hatch took his family. Fifteen other individuals were included. Progress
+southward was stopped at Moen Copie by reports of a Navajo uprising. Most
+of the party returned to Utah after a few weeks, leaving behind Hamblin,
+Hatch and Tenney.
+
+
+Missionary Scouts in Northeastern Arizona
+
+When the unsuccessful expedition turned back to Utah in the summer of
+1873, there remained John L. Blythe of Salt Lake and a number of other
+missionaries. They located among the Indians on the Moen Copie, where
+they sowed the ground and planted trees and grapevines, also planting at
+Moabi, about seven miles to the southwest. Blythe remained at Moen Copie,
+alone with his family, until 1874, including the time of the Indian
+trouble more particularly referred to in this volume in connection with
+the work of Jacob Hamblin.
+
+The failure of the Haight expedition in no wise daunted the Church
+authorities in their determination to extend southward. In general,
+reports that came concerning the Little Colorado Valley were favorable.
+Finally, starting from Salt Lake October 30, 1875, was sent a scouting
+expedition, headed by Jas. S. Brown, who had a dozen companions when he
+crossed into Arizona. This party made headquarters at Moen Copie, where a
+stone house was built for winter quarters. Brown and two others then
+traveled up the Little Colorado for a considerable distance, not well
+defined in his narrative, finding a fine, open country, with water
+plentiful and with grass abundant, with good farming land and timber
+available. The trio followed the Beale trail westward to a point
+southwest of the San Francisco Mountains, where there was crossing back
+to the Little Colorado. Christmas Day, before Moen Copie was reached,
+the scouts were placed in serious danger by a terrific snowstorm. Brown
+returned to Salt Lake with his report, January 14, 1876, after traveling
+1300 miles, mainly on horseback.
+
+Here might be stated that Brown was none other than a Mormon Battalion
+member who had participated in the discovery of gold at Sutter's Fort in
+California. At some time prior to coming to Arizona he had lost a leg,
+shot off by hunters who had mistaken him for a bear. He should not be
+confounded with Capt. James Brown of the Battalion.
+
+
+Foundation of Four Settlements
+
+The first Presidency apparently had anticipated Brown's favorable report,
+for quick action was had immediately thereafter. Four companies, each of
+fifty men and their families, were organized, under Lot Smith, Jesse O.
+Ballenger, George Lake and Wm. C. Allen. The 200 missionaries were
+"called" from many parts of Utah, but mainly from the north and around
+Salt Lake. There was no formal gathering of the companies. Each member
+went southward as he could, to report to his leader on the Little
+Colorado. The assembling point was Kanab. Thence there was assemblage of
+groups of about ten families each, without reference to companies. An
+entertaining detail of this journey lately was given the Historian in
+Phoenix by David E. Adams, captain of one of the Tens.
+
+The leading teams reached Sunset Crossing on the Little Colorado March
+23, 1876, the migration continuing for many weeks thereafter. Allen,
+Smith and Lake continued up the river twenty miles, to a point about five
+miles east of the present site of St. Joseph.
+
+From exact data furnished by R. E. Porter of St. Joseph is learned that
+Allen's company settled at the point where this march ended, establishing
+Allen's Camp. There was later change to a point one mile east of the
+present location, a site maintained till 1877. The name was changed
+January 21,1878, to St. Joseph, after Prophet Joseph Smith.
+
+[Illustration: NORTHEASTERN ARIZONA--The Little Colorado Country]
+
+Lot Smith's company retraced, to establish Sunset, three miles north of
+Sunset Crossing, on the north side of the river.
+
+Lake's company established itself across the river, three miles south and
+west of the present site of St. Joseph. The settlement was named Obed.
+
+Ballenger's company located four miles southwest of Sunset Crossing, on
+the south side of the river, near the site of the present Winslow.
+
+
+Genesis of St. Joseph
+
+There was quick work in the way of settlement at Allen's Camp, where the
+first plowing was on March 25, 1876, by John Bushman and Nathan Cheney.
+Jacob Morris immediately commenced the construction of a house. Two
+days later an irrigation ditch was surveyed and on the following day John
+Bushman got out the first logs for a diversion dam. April 3, Bushman
+sowed the first wheat. A temporary structure was built for protection and
+for storage. May 26 the name of Allen City was given the settlement, in
+preference to a second suggestion, Ramah City. Early in August, 23 men,
+including Allen, started back to Utah, from which a few returned with
+their families.
+
+On Allen's return southward with a number of families, the old Spanish
+Trail was used, in its eastern section, via the San Juan region, with
+some idea that it might be made the main thoroughfare, for thus would be
+obviated the ferrying of the Colorado River, either above or below the
+Canyon. But the way into Arizona through northwestern New Mexico was too
+long, and the experiment was not considered successful.
+
+In the fall, the families moved into a stockade fort, planned to be 152
+feet wide and 300 feet long. Only part of this was finished. Probably
+twenty or more houses were built within it.
+
+[Illustration: CROSSING THE LITTLE COLORADO]
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD FORT AT BRIGHAM CITY]
+
+[Illustration: WOODRUFF DAM, AFTER ONE OF THE FREQUENT WASHOUTS]
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST PERMANENT DAM ON THE LITTLE COLORADO AT ST.
+JOSEPH]
+
+August 23, 1876, a postoffice was established, with John McLaws in
+charge. A weekly mail service operated between Santa Fe and Prescott.
+
+The first child in the settlement was Hannah Maria Colson, July 17, 1876.
+The first death was exactly a year later, that of Clara Gray. The first
+school district was established and the first school was taught during
+the winter of 1877-78. Of all the lower Little Colorado settlements, this
+is the only one now existent.
+
+The present St. Joseph lies only a hundred rods from the main line of the
+Santa Fe railroad system, 25 miles east of Winslow. The first Allen's
+Camp, in April, 1876, was three miles east of the present site. There was
+a change to the western location in June, at the suggestion of Daniel H.
+Wells, who had followed for an inspection of the new settlements. Later
+there was survey, nearby, of a townsite, the same that now is occupied.
+Among the few remaining settlers of the Little Colorado settlements, is
+Joseph Hill Richards, who writes that he was the first justice of the
+peace for Yavapai County in that region and the first captain there of
+territorial militia. He also was prominent in the Church organization.
+
+
+Struggling with a Treacherous River
+
+Every settlement along the Little Colorado River has known repeated
+troubles in maintaining its water supply. It would be vain recapitulation
+to tell just how many times each of the poor struggling communities had
+to rally back on the sands of the river bed to built up anew the
+structure of gravel and brush that must be depended upon, if bread were
+to be secured from the land. The Little Colorado is a treacherous stream
+at best, with a broad channel that wanders at will through the alluvial
+country that melts like sugar or salt at the touch of water.
+
+There are instances that stand out in this struggle for water. The first
+joint dam of Allen's Camp and Obed cost the settlers $5000. It is told
+that 960 day's work was done on the dam and 500 days more work on the
+Allen ditch. This dam went down at the first flood, for it raised the
+water about twelve feet. Then, in the spring of 1877, another dam was
+built, a mile and a half upstream, and this again washed away. In 1879
+the St. Joseph settlers sought the third damsite at LeRoux Wash, about
+two and a half miles west of the present Holbrook. In 1881 they spent
+much money and effort on a plan to make a high dam at the site of the
+first construction, but this again was taken downstream by the river. In
+1882, a pile dam was built across the river, and it again was spoiled by
+the floods. This dam generally was in use until 1891, but had to be
+repaired almost every year. In the year named, work was started upon what
+was hoped to be a permanent dam, at an estimated cost of $60,000. In
+1894, Andrew Jenson wrote that at least $50,000 had been lost by the
+community upon its dams. Noting the fact that only fifteen families
+constituted the population, he called St. Joseph "the leading community
+in pain, determination and unflinching courage in dealing with the
+elements around them."
+
+St. Joseph, as early as 1894, had completed its eighth dam across the
+river. Jos. W. Smith wrote of the dedication of the dam, in March of that
+year. He remarked especially upon the showing of rosy-cheeked, well-clad
+children, of whom the greater part of the assemblage was composed,
+"showing that the people were by no means destitute, even if they had
+been laboring on ditches and dams so much for the last eighteen years."
+
+The main prayer of the exercise was brief, but characteristic: "O Lord,
+we pray that this dam may stand, if it be Thy will--if not, let Thy will
+be done." The invocation was effective. The dam stood, as is illustrated
+within this book.
+
+
+Decline and Fall of Sunset
+
+Sunset, the lowest of the settlements, was near the present railroad
+crossing of the river, below the river junction with Clear Creek. There
+had been a temporary location two miles upstream. The main structure was
+a stockade, twelve rods square, mainly of drift cottonwood logs. Within
+were rock-built houses, a community dining hall and a well. Combination
+was made with Ballenger, across the stream, in the building of a dam, two
+and a half miles above the settlement.
+
+Apparently the sandy land and the difficulty of irrigating it drove the
+settlers away, until, finally, in 1885, Lot Smith's family was the only
+one left upon the ground, and it departed in 1888.
+
+Years later, Andrew Jenson found the rock walls and chimneys still
+standing. "Everything is desert," he wrote, "the whole landscape looks
+dreary and forbidding and the lonely graveyard on the hillside only
+reminds one of the population which once was and that is no more." Only
+ruin marks the place where once was headquarters of the Little Colorado
+Stake of Zion. The settlement was badly placed, for floods came within a
+rod of the fort and covered the wheat fields.
+
+Lot Smith wrote in poetic vein, "This is a strange country, belonging to
+a people whose lands the rivers have spoiled." Very practically, however,
+he wrote of good lands and slack water supply, "though the river shows it
+would be a mighty rushing torrent when the rains commence in summer, with
+the appearance of being 25 miles broad, and the Indians told us that if
+we are indeed to live where we are encamped, we had better fix some
+scaffolding in the trees."
+
+In August, 1878, a correspondent of the Deseret News wrote from Sunset
+that for a week the rain had been pouring down almost incessantly, that
+the whole bottom was covered with water, that some of the farms were
+submerged and grain in shocks was flooded, that the grain of Woodruff was
+entirely destroyed, the grist mill of Brigham City inundated and the
+grain stacks there were deep in water, with the inhabitants using boats
+and rafts to get around their farms.
+
+
+Village Communal Organization
+
+The settlements all established themselves under the United Order. Early
+in 1876 one of the settlers wrote from Allen's Camp, "It is all United
+Order here and no beating around the bush, for it is the intention to go
+into it to the full meaning of the term." This chronicler, John L.
+Blythe, April 11, 1876, again wrote, "The companies are going into the
+United Order to the whole extent, giving in everything they possess,
+their labor, time and talent." In August there was a report from the same
+locality that "the people are living in a united system, each laboring
+for the good of all the community and an excellent feeling prevails."
+
+The communal system was given formal adoption at Allen's Camp April 28,
+1877, when articles were agreed upon for a branch of the United Order.
+June 5, 1877, with Wm. C. Allen presiding, there was an appraisal of
+property and a separation of duties. Henry M. Tanner (who still is in St.
+Joseph), was secretary, John Bushman foreman of the farm, James Walker
+water master and Moses D. Steele superintendent of livestock. Niels
+Nielsen was in charge of ox teams and Jos. H. Rogers in charge of horse
+teams, harness and wagons. The Church historian has given in detail the
+manner in which the system worked:
+
+"From the beginning the Saints at Allen's Camp disciplined themselves
+strictly according to Church rules. Every morning the Saints, at the
+sound of the triangle, assembled in the schoolhouse for prayer, on which
+occasion they would not only pray and sing, but sometimes brethren would
+make brief remarks. The same was resorted to in the evening. They did not
+all eat at the same table (a common custom followed in the other camps),
+but nevertheless great union, peace and love prevailed among the people,
+and none seemed to take advantage of his neighbor. Peace, harmony and
+brotherly love characterized all the settlers at Allen's Camp from the
+very beginning."
+
+In August, 1878, Samuel G. Ladd wrote from the new St. Joseph, that the
+United Order worked harmoniously and prosperously. In that year
+manufacturing of brooms was commenced by John Bushman. Up to 1882 each
+family was drawing from one common storehouse. In 1883 the Order was
+dissolved at St. Joseph and the stewardship plan adopted. Each family
+received its part of the divided land and a settlement of what each man
+originally had put into the Order. Proforma organization of the Order was
+continued until January, 1887.
+
+
+Hospitality Was of Generous Sort
+
+From Sunset Crossing Camp, G. C. Wood wrote, in April, 1876, "The
+brethren built a long shanty, with a long table in it and all ate their
+meals together, worked together and got along finely." In February, 1878,
+President Lot Smith wrote the Deseret News in a strain that indicated
+doubt concerning the efficiency of the United Order system. His letter
+told:
+
+"This mission has had a strange history so far, most who came having got
+weak in the back or knees and gone home. Some, I believe, have felt
+somewhat exercised about the way we are getting along, and the mode in
+which we are conducting our culinary affairs. Now, I have always had a
+preference for eating with my family and have striven to show that I was
+willing to enlarge as often as circumstances require, and the same
+feeling seemed to prevail in these settlements. We have enlarged
+ourselves to the amount of forty in one day. We have noticed that most
+people who pass the road are willing to stop and board with us a week or
+two, notwithstanding our poor provisions and the queer style it was
+served up."
+
+In July of the same year, Lorenzo Hatch wrote from Woodruff, "At Sunset,
+Brigham City and Woodruff, the settlements eat at one table, hence we
+have no poor nor rich among us. The Obed camp also had gone into the
+United Order in the fullest sense in May, 1876."
+
+
+Brigham City's Varied Industries
+
+Ballenger, in September, 1878, was renamed Brigham City, in honor of
+President Brigham Young. Its people were found by Erastus Snow in
+September, 1878, with a remarkable organization, operating in part under
+the United Order system. There was a fort 200 feet square, with rocky
+walls seven feet high. Inside were 36 dwelling houses, each 15x13 feet.
+On the north side was the dining hall, 80x20 feet, with two rows of
+tables, to seat more than 150 persons. Adjoining was a kitchen, 25x20
+feet, with an annexed bakehouse. Twelve other dwelling houses were
+mentioned, as well as a cellar and storehouse. Water was secured within
+the enclosure from two good wells. South of the fort were corrals and
+stockyards. The main industry was the farming of 274 acres, more than
+one-half of it in wheat. A pottery was in charge of Brother Behrman,
+reported to have been confident that he could surpass any of the
+potteries in Utah for good ware. Milk was secured from 142 cows. One
+family was assigned to the sawmill in the mountains. J. A. Woods taught
+the first school. Jesse O. Ballenger, the first leader, was succeeded in
+1878 by George Lake, who reported that, "while the people were living
+together in the United Order they generally ate together at the same
+table. The Saints, as a rule, were very earnest in their endeavors to
+carry out the principles of the Order, but some became dissatisfied and
+moved away." Discouragement became general, and in 1881 all were released
+from the mission. The settlement practically was broken up, the people
+scattering, though without dissension.
+
+Some went to Forest Dale, and later to the Gila River, and some left
+Arizona altogether. There was a surplus from the experiment of about
+$8000, which went to the Church, after the people had drawn out their
+original capital, each taking the same number of animals and the same
+amount of property contributed originally. In 1882 only a couple of
+families were left and an added surplus of $2200 was used by the Church
+in settling the Gila country. In 1890 only the family of Sidney Wilson
+remained on the old site of Brigham City. The Brigham City water-power
+grist mill built in 1878, a present from the Church, was given to the
+people of Woodruff, but was not used.
+
+The abandonment of Brigham City should not be blamed to the weakness of a
+communistic system. There had been frequent failures of crops and there
+had come a determination to find a locality where nature would smile
+more often upon the barley, so scouts were sent to the San Juan country
+in Utah, the Salt River country and to the Gila. George Lake, Andrew
+Anderson and George W. Skinner constituted the Gila party. Near
+Smithville they bought land, a transaction elsewhere referred to.
+Anderson and Skinner, in December, 1880, returned to Brigham City. At
+that point a business meeting was called at once and the authorities of
+the United Order approved the purchases made.
+
+January 1, 1878, was announced a census of the settlement of the Little
+Colorado country. Sunset had 136 inhabitants, Ballenger 277, Allen's Camp
+76, Woodruff 50 and Moen Copie 25, a total of 564, with 115 families.
+
+
+Brief Lives of Obed and Taylor
+
+The settlement of Obed, three miles southwest of St. Joseph, directly
+south of old Allen's Camp and across the river, bears date from June,
+1876, having been moved a short distance from the first camp ground. At
+that time was built a fort of remarkable strength, twelve rods square. In
+places, the walls were ten feet high. There were bastions, with portholes
+for defense, at two of the corners, and portholes were in the walls all
+around. The camp at the start had 123 souls. Cottonwood logs were sawed
+for lumber. The community had a schoolhouse in January, 1877, and a
+denominational school was started the next month, with Phoebe McNeil as
+teacher. The settlement was not a happy one. The site was malarial,
+selected against Church instructions, and there were the usual troubles
+in the washing away of brush and log dams. The population drifted away,
+until there was abandonment in 1878.
+
+Taylor was a small settlement on the Little Colorado, about three miles
+below the present St. Joseph, and should not be confounded with the
+present settlement of the same name near Snowflake. This first Taylor was
+established January 22, 1878, by eight families, mainly from Panguitch
+and Beaver, Utah. In the United Order they built a dining hall, a
+quarter-mile back from the river and organized as a ward, with John
+Kartchner at its head. But there was discouragement, not unnaturally,
+when the river dam went out for the fifth time. Then, in July, 1878,
+members of the settlement departed, going to the present site of
+Snowflake on Silver Creek. They included a number of Arkansas immigrants.
+There had been little improvement outside of the stockade and dining
+hall, and for most of the time the people lived in their wagons.
+
+
+[Illustration: THE COLORADO FERRY AND RANCH AT THE MOUTH OF THE PARIA
+By courtesy of Dr. George Wharton James]
+
+[Illustration: LEE CABIN AT MOEN AVI]
+
+[Illustration: MOEN COPIE WOOLEN MILL. First and Only One in Arizona]
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Fourteen
+
+Travel, Missions and Industries
+
+
+Passing of the Boston Party
+
+Keen interest in the Southwest was excited early in 1876 by a series of
+lectures delivered at New England points by Judge Samuel W. Cozzens,
+author of "The Marvellous Country." There was formed the American
+Colonization Company, with Cozzens as president. Two companies of men, of
+about fifty individuals each, were dispatched from Boston, each man with
+equipment weighing about thirty pounds. The destination was a fertile
+valley in northeastern Arizona, a land that had been described
+eloquently, probably after only casual observation. The end of the Santa
+Fe railroad was in northern New Mexico. There the first party purchased
+four wagons and a number of mules from a grading contractor, Pat Shanley,
+afterward a cattleman in Gila County.
+
+The best story at hand of the Bostonians is from one of them, Horace E.
+Mann, who for years has been a prospector and miner and who now is a
+resident of Phoenix. He tells that the journey westward was without
+particular incident until was reached, about June 15, the actual
+destination, the valley of the Little Colorado River, on the route of the
+projected Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. The travelers were astonished to
+find the country already taken up by a number of companies of Mormon
+colonists.
+
+In New England the Mormons were considered a blood-thirsty people, eager
+to slay any Gentile who might happen along. It is not to be intimated
+that the Bostonians were mollycoddles. They appear to have been above
+even the average of the time, manly and stalwart enough, but the truth
+is, as told by Mr. Mann, the expedition did not care either to mingle
+with the Mormons or to incur danger of probable slaughter. Therefore, the
+parties hurried along as fast as possible. The same view is indicated in
+a recent interview with David E. Adams, of one of the Mormon settlements.
+He told the Historian that he found the Bostonians suspicious and
+fearful. At that time the Utah people still were living in their wagons.
+They were breaking ground and were starting upon the construction of dams
+in the river. The second Boston party passed June 23.
+
+At Sunset Crossing Mann and three of his companions entered upon an
+adventure assuredly novel in arid Arizona. They constructed a raft of
+drift cottonwood and thought to lighten the journey by floating down the
+river. It was found that the stream soon bent toward the northward,
+away from the wagon trail. Sometimes there were shoals that the raft had
+to be pushed over and again there were deep whirlpools, around which the
+raft went merrily a dozen times before the river channel again could be
+entered. The channel walls grew higher and higher until, finally, the
+navigators pulled the raft ashore and resumed their journey on foot,
+finding their wagon in camp at the Canyon Diablo crossing. There,
+apparently considering themselves safe from massacre, was an encampment
+of a week or more.
+
+
+At the Naming of Flagstaff
+
+Mann, his bunkie, George E. Loring (later express agent at Phoenix), a
+Rhode Islander named Tillinghast and three others formed an advance party
+westward. This party made camp at a small spring just south of San
+Francisco Mountains, where Flagstaff is now. Mann remembers the place
+as Volunteer Springs in Harrigan Valley. While waiting for the main party
+to come up, the advance guard hunted and explored. Mann remembers
+traveling up a little valley to the north and northwest to the big LeRoux
+Springs, below which he found the remains of a burnt cabin and of a
+stockade corral, possibly occupied in the past as a station on the
+transcontinental mail route.
+
+With reference to the naming of Flagstaff, Mr. Mann is very definite. He
+says that, while waiting for the main party, this being late in June,
+1876, and merely for occupation, the limbs were cut from a straight pine
+tree that was growing by itself near the camp. The bark was cut away,
+leaving the tree a model flagstaff and for this purpose it was used, the
+flag being one owned by Tillinghast and the only one carried by the
+expedition. The tree was not cut down. It was left standing upon its own
+roots. This tale is rather at variance with one that has been of common
+acceptance in the history of Flagstaff and the date was not the Fourth of
+July, as has been believed, for Mann is sure that he arrived in Prescott
+in June. The main section of the first party came a few days later, and
+was on the ground for a celebration of the centennial Fourth of July that
+centered around the flagstaff.
+
+Mann also remembers that Major Maynadier, one of the leaders of the
+expedition, surveyed a townsite for Flagstaff, each of the members of the
+expedition being allotted a tract. The second party joined the first at
+Flagstaff. Word had been received that mechanics were needed at Prescott
+and in the nearby mines, with the large wages of $6 a day, and hence
+there was eagerness to get along and have a share in the wealth of the
+land. It remains to be stated that all the men found no difficulty in
+locating themselves in and around Prescott and that no regret was felt
+over the failure of the original plan.
+
+
+Southern Saints Brought Smallpox
+
+One of the few parties of Southern States Saints known for years in any
+of the Stakes of Zion joined the poverty-stricken colonists on the Little
+Colorado in the fall of 1877. Led by Nelson P. Beebe, it numbered about
+100 individuals, coming through New Mexico by wagon, with a first stop
+at Savoia. The immigrants were without means or food and there had to be
+haste in sending most of them on westward, more wagons being sent from
+the Little Colorado camps for their conveyance. At Allen's Camp was a
+burden of sickness, mainly fever sufferers from the unfortunate Obed. To
+these visitors were added seventy of the "Arkansas Saints," who came
+October 4. Yet the plucky Allenites not only divided with the strangers
+their scanty store of bread, but gave a dance in celebration of the
+addition to the pioneers' strength. The arrivals brought with them a
+new source of woe. One of their number, Thomas West, had contracted
+smallpox at Albuquerque and from this case came many prostrations.
+
+
+Fort Moroni, at LeRoux Spring
+
+One of the most important watering places of northeastern Arizona is
+LeRoux Spring, seven miles northwest of Flagstaff on the southwestern
+slope of the San Francisco Mountains. This never-failing spring was a
+welcome spot to the pioneers who traveled the rocky road along the 35th
+parallel of latitude. San Francisco Spring (or Old Town Spring) at the
+present Flagstaff, was much less dependable and at the time of the
+construction of the Atlantic & Pacific railroad in 1881-2, water often
+was hauled to Flagstaff from the larger spring, at times sold for $1 a
+barrel.
+
+The importance of this water supply appears to have been appreciated
+early by the long-headed directing body of the Mormon Church. Early in
+1877, under direction of John W. Young, son and one of the counselors of
+Brigham Young, from the Little Colorado settlements of St. Joseph and
+Sunset, was sent an expedition, that included Alma Iverson, John L.
+Blythe and Jos. W. McMurrin, the last at this writing president of the
+California Mission of the Church, then a boy of 18.
+
+According to Ammon M. Tenney, this LeRoux spring was known to the people
+of the Little Colorado settlements as San Francisco spring. Mr. McMurrin
+personally states his remembrance that the expedition proceeded along the
+Beale trail to the spring, near which was built a small log cabin,
+designed to give a degree of title to the water and to the locality,
+probably also to serve as a shelter for any missionary parties that might
+travel the road. There is no information that it was used later for any
+purpose.
+
+The men were instructed to build a cabin at Turkey Tanks, on the road to
+the Peaks, this cabin to be lined with pine needles and to be used as a
+storage icehouse, Counselor Young expressing the opinion that there would
+be times in the summer heat of the Little Colorado Valley when ice would
+be of the greatest value. The tanks were hardly suitable for this
+purpose, however, and the icehouse was not built.
+
+Location of the LeRoux spring by the Iverson-Blythe party in 1877 appears
+to have been sufficient to hold the ground till it was needed, in 1881,
+by John W. Young, in connection with his railroad work. About sixty
+graders and tie cutters were camped, mainly in tents, on LeRoux Prairie
+or Flat, below the spring, according to Mrs. W. J. Murphy, now of
+Phoenix, a resident of the Prairie for five months of 1881, her husband a
+contractor on the new railroad. She remembers no cattle, though deer and
+antelope were abundant.
+
+
+Stockaded Against the Indians
+
+In the early spring came reports of Indian raids to the eastward. So
+Young hauled in a number of double-length ties, which he set on end,
+making a stockade, within which he placed his camp, mainly of tents.
+Later were brush shelters within, but the great log house, illustrated
+herein, was not built until afterward. Thereafter was attached the name
+of Fort Moroni, given by Young, who organized the Moroni Cattle Company.
+At the time of the coming of the grade to Flagstaff, Young also had a
+camp in the western end of the present Flagstaff townsite.
+
+Fort Moroni was acquired about 1883 by the Arizona Cattle Company. The
+large building was used as a mess house. The stockade ties were cut down
+to fence height and eventually disappeared, used by the cowboys for fuel.
+
+An entertaining sidelight on the settlement of what later generally was
+known as Fort Valley has been thrown by Earl R. Forrest of Washington,
+Penn., in early days a cowboy for the Arizona Cattle Company. He writes
+that the building formed one side of a 100-foot square, with the stockade
+on the other three sides. In his day, the name of the ranch was changed
+to Fort Rickerson, in honor of Chas. L. Rickerson, treasurer of the
+company. Capt. F.B. Bullwinkle, the manager, a former Chief of the
+Chicago Fire Department, and a lover of fast stock, was killed near
+Flagstaff, thrown from a stumbling horse while racing for the railroad
+station. Thereafter the property passed into the possession of the
+Babbitt Brothers of Flagstaff. The old building was torn down late in
+1920.
+
+In August, 1908, the first forest experiment station in the United States
+was established in Fort Valley.
+
+The great spring is used only for watering cattle, and the spring at
+Flagstaff appears to have been lost in the spread of civilization.
+
+LeRoux spring was named for Antoine LeRoux, principal guide of the famous
+survey expedition of Lieut. A.W. Whipple, along the 35th parallel, in
+1853. Incidentally, this is the same LeRoux who was principal guide of
+the Mormon Battalion.
+
+
+Mormon Dairy and the Mount Trumbull Mill
+
+Mormon Mountain, Mormon Lake and Mormon Dairy still are known as such, 28
+miles southeast of Flagstaff. The Dairy was established in September,
+1878, by Lot Smith, in what then was known as Pleasant Valley, in the
+pines, sixty miles west of Sunset. In that year 48 men and 41 women from
+Sunset and Brigham City, were at the Dairy, caring for 115 cows and
+making butter and cheese. Three good log houses had been built.
+
+Seven miles south of Pleasant Valley (which should not be confounded with
+the Tonto Basin Pleasant Valley of sanguinary repute), was the site of
+the first sawmill on the Mogollon Plateau, upon which a half-dozen very
+large plants now operate to furnish lumber to the entire Southwest. This
+mill, probably antedated in northern Arizona only at Prescott, first was
+erected, about 1870, at Mount Trumbull, in the Uinkaret Mountains of
+northwestern Arizona, to cut lumber for the new temple at St. George,
+Utah, fifty miles to the northward. This mill, in 1876, was given by the
+Church authorities to the struggling Little Colorado River settlements.
+Taken down in August by the head sawyer, Warren R. Tenney, it was hauled
+into Sunset late in September and soon was re-erected by Tenney, and,
+November 7, put into operation in the pine woods near Mormon Lake, about
+sixty miles southwest of Sunset, soon turning out 100,000 feet of boards.
+Its site was named Millville. The mill, after the decline of the first
+settlements, passed into the possession of W. J. Flake. In the summer of
+1882, it was transferred to Pinedale and in 1890 to Pinetop. It now is at
+Lakeside, where, it is assumed, at least part of the original machinery
+still is being operated. Its first work at Pinetop was to saw the timbers
+for a large assembly hall, or pavilion, to be used for the only
+conference ever held that included all the Arizona Stakes.
+
+Also in the timber country are to be noted Wilford, named in honor of
+President Wilford Woodruff, and Heber, named for Heber C. Kimball, small
+settlements fifty miles southwest of St. Joseph, established in 1883 from
+St. Joseph and other Little Colorado settlements, for stock raising and
+dry farming. John Bushman is believed to have been the first Mormon
+resident of the locality. Log houses were built and at Wilford was a
+schoolhouse, which later was moved to St. Joseph, there used as a
+dwelling. When a number of the brethren went into Mexican exile, their
+holdings were "jumped" by outsiders. Wilford has been entirely vacated,
+but Heber still has residents.
+
+
+Where Salt Was Secured
+
+Salt for the early settlements of northern Arizona very generally was
+secured from the salt lake of the Zuni, just east of the New Mexican
+line, roughly 33 miles from St. Johns. As early as 1865, Sol Barth
+brought salt on pack mules from this lake to points as far westward as
+Prescott. In the records of a number of the Little Colorado settlements
+are found references to where the brethren visited a salt lake and came
+back with as much as two tons at a load. This lake is of sacred character
+to the Zuni, which, at certain times of the year send parties of priests
+and warriors to the lake, 45 miles south of the tribal village. There is
+elaborate ceremonial before salt is collected. Undoubtedly the lake was
+known to prehistoric peoples, for salt, probably obtained at this point,
+has been found in cliff ruins in southern Colorado, 200 miles from the
+source of supply. The Zuni even had a special goddess, Mawe, genius of
+the sacred salt lake, or "Salt Mother," to whom offerings were made at
+the lake. Warren K. Follett, in 1878, told that the lake lies 300 feet
+lower than the general surface of the country. The salt forms within the
+water, in layers of from three to four inches thick, and is of remarkable
+purity.
+
+The Hopi secured salt from a ledge in the Grand Canyon, below the mouth
+of the Little Colorado, about eighty miles northwest of their villages.
+At the point of mining, sacrifices were made before shrines of a goddess
+of salt and a god of war. The place has had description by Dr. Geo.
+Wharton James, whose knowledge of the gorge is most comprehensive.
+
+On the upper Verde and in Tonto Creek Valley are salt deposits, though
+very impure. Upper Salt River has a small deposit of very good sodium
+chloride, which was mined mainly for the mills of Globe, in the
+seventies. The Verde deposit now is being mined for shipment to paper
+mills of its sodium sulphate. Reference elsewhere is made to the
+salt mines of the Virgin River Valley.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND FALLS ON THE LITTLE COLORADO RIVER]
+
+[Illustration: ORIGINAL FORT MORONI WITH ITS STOCKADE]
+
+[Illustration: FORT MORONI IN LATER YEARS]
+
+
+The Mission Post of Moen Copie
+
+One of the most interesting early locations of the Mormon Church in
+Arizona was that of Moen Copie, about 75 miles southeast of Lee's Ferry.
+The name is a Hopi one, signifying "running water" or "many springs." The
+soil is alkaline, but it is a place where Indians had raised crops for
+generations. The presiding spirit of the locality was Tuba, the Oraibi
+chief, who had been taken by Jacob Hamblin to Utah, there to learn
+something of the white man's civilization.
+
+Joseph Fish wrote that at an early date Moen Copie was selected as a
+missionary post by Jacob Hamblin and Andrew S. Gibbons and that in 1871
+and 1872, John L. Blythe and family were at that point.
+
+Permanent settlement on Moen Copie Creek was made December 4, 1875, by a
+party headed by Jas. S. Brown. There was establishment of winter
+quarters, centering in a stone house 40x20 feet, with walls twenty inches
+thick. The house was on the edge of a cliff, with two rows of log houses
+forming three sides of a square.
+
+
+Indians Who Knew Whose Ox Was Gored
+
+The Author is pleased to present here a tale of Indian craft,
+delightfully told him by Mrs. Elvira Martineau (Benj. S.) Johnson, who,
+in 1876, accompanied her husband to Moen Copie, where he had been sent as
+a missionary. July 4 the women had just prepared a holiday feast when
+Indians were seen approaching. The men were summoned from the fields
+below the cliff. Leading the Indians was a Navajo, Peicon, who,
+addressing Brown as a brother chieftain, thrust forward his young son,
+dramatically stating that the lad had killed three cows owned at the
+settlement of Sunset and offering him for any punishment the whites might
+see fit to inflict, even though it be death. Brown mildly suggested that
+the Sunset people should be seen, but that he was sure that all they
+would ask would be the value of the animals. During the protracted
+argument a party of accompanying Utes came into the discussion,
+threatening individuals with their bows and arrows. The Navajos were fed
+and then was developed the truth. It was that the men of Sunset had
+killed three Indian cattle and the wily chief had been trying to get
+Brown to fix a drastic penalty upon his own people. Brown went with the
+Navajos to Sunset, there to learn that the half-starved colonists had
+killed three range animals, assumed to have been ownerless. The matter
+then was adjusted with little trouble and to the full satisfaction of the
+redskins.
+
+In September, 1878, Erastus Snow visited Moen Copie, where the
+inhabitants comprised nine families, with especial mention of Andrew S.
+Gibbons, of the party of John W. Young and of Tuba. There had been a
+prosperous season in a farming way.
+
+This visit is notable from the fact that on the 17th, Snow and others
+proceeded about two miles west of north and at Musha Springs located a
+townsite, afterward named Tuba City. Tuba City was visited in 1900 by
+Andrew Jenson, who found twenty families resident, with one family at the
+old Moen Copie mission and three families at Moen Abi, seven miles to the
+southwest.
+
+A Woolen Factory in the Wilds
+
+Primarily the Tuba settlement was a missionary effort, with the intention
+of taking the Gospel into the very center of the Navajo and Hopi country.
+Agriculture flourished a all times, with an abundant supply of water for
+irrigation. But there was an attempt at industry and one which would
+appear to have had the very best chance of success. The Navajo and Hopi
+alike are owners of immense numbers of sheep. The wool in early days
+almost entirely was utilized by the Indians in the making of blankets,
+this on rude hand looms, where the product was turned out with a maximum
+of labor and of time. John W. Young, elsewhere referred to in connection
+with the establishment of Fort Moroni and with the building of the
+Atlantic and Pacific railroad, thought he saw an opportunity to benefit
+the Indians and the Church, and probably himself, so at Tuba City, in the
+spring of 1879, he commenced erection of a woolen factory, with interior
+dimensions 90x70 feet. The plant was finished in November, with 192
+spindles in use. In the spring of 1880 was a report in the Deseret News
+that the manufacture of yarns had commenced and that the machinery was
+running like a charm. Looms for the cloth-making were reported on the
+way. Just how labor was secured is not known, but it is probable that
+Indians were utilized to as large an extent as possible. There is no
+available record concerning the length of time this mill was operated. It
+is understood, however, that the Indians soon lost interest in it and
+failed to bring in wool. Possibly the labor supply was not ample and
+possibly the distance to the Utah settlements was too great and the
+journey too rough to secure profit. At any event, the factory closed
+without revolutionizing the Navajo and Hopi woolen industry. In 1900 was
+written that the factory "has most literally been carried away by
+Indians, travelers and others." Old Chief Tuba took particular pride in
+watching over the remains of the factory, but after his death the
+ruination of the building was made complete. Some of the machinery was
+taken to St. Johns.
+
+
+Lot Smith and His End
+
+In general the Saints at Tuba appear to have lived at peace with their
+Indian neighbors, save in 1892 when Lot Smith was killed. The simple tale
+of the tragedy is in a Church record that follows:
+
+"On Monday, June 20, 1892, some Indians at Tuba City turned their sheep
+into Lot Smith's pasture. Brother Smith went out to drive the sheep away,
+and while thus engaged he got into a quarrel with the Indians and
+commenced shooting their sheep. In retaliation the Indians commenced
+firing upon Lot Smith's cows and finally directed their fire against Lot
+Smith himself, shooting him through the body. Though mortally wounded, he
+rode home, a distance of about two miles, and lived about six hours, when
+he expired. It is stated on good authority that the Indians were very
+sorry, as Smith always had been a friend to them."
+
+The Author here might be permitted to make reference to the impression
+generally held in the Southwest that Lot Smith was a "killer," a man of
+violence, who died as he had lived. Close study of his record fails to
+bear out this view. Undoubtedly it started in Utah after his return from
+Mormon Battalion service, when he became a member of the Mormon militia
+that harassed Johnston's army in the passes east of the Salt Lake Valley.
+There is solemn Church assurance that not a life was taken in this foray,
+though many wagons were burned in an attempt, October 3, 1857, to delay
+the march of the troops. Smith (who in no wise was related to the family
+of the Prophet Joseph) became a leader in the Deseret defense forces, but
+there is belief that in all his life he shed no blood, unless it was in
+connection with a battle with the Utes near Provo, in February, 1850. In
+this fight were used brass cannon, probably those that had been bought at
+Sutter's Fort by returning Mormon Battalion members. According to a
+friendly biographer, "There never was a man who held the life and liberty
+of man more sacred than did Lot Smith." Ten years after his death there
+was re-interment of his remains at Farmington, Utah.
+
+
+Moen Copie Reverts to the Indians
+
+In 1900 Moen Copie ward embraced 21 families and about 150 souls. There
+had been an extension of the Navajo reservation westward and the Indians,
+though friendly, had been advised to crowd the Mormons out, on the ground
+that the country in reality belonged to the aborigines. There was no
+title to the land, which had not been surveyed and which was held only by
+squatter rights. There had been some success in a missionary way, but
+conditions arose which made it appear best that the land be vacated
+to the Indians. There was much negotiation and at the end there was
+payment by the government of $45,000, this divided among the whites
+according to the value of their improvements and acreage.
+
+In this wise the Mormon settlement of Tuba City was vacated in February,
+1903, the inhabitants moving to other parts of Arizona and to Utah and
+Idaho. A large reservation school has been established on the Wash, many
+Indians there being instructed in the arts of the white man, while
+government farmers are utilizing the waters of the stream and of the
+springs in the cultivation of a considerable acreage. A feature of this
+school is that fuel is secured, at very slight cost, from coal measures
+nearby.
+
+
+Woodruff and Its Water Troubles
+
+Closely following settlement of the ephemeral lower Little Colorado towns
+came the founding of Woodruff, about 25 miles upstream from St. Joseph
+and about twelve miles above the present Holbrook. It is still a
+prosperous town and community, though its history has been one in which
+disaster has come repeatedly through the washing away of the dam which
+supplies its main canal with water from the Little Colorado and Silver
+Creek.
+
+In the locality the Mormons were antedated by Luther Martin and Felix
+Scott. The section was scouted in December, 1876, by Joseph H. Richards,
+Lewis P. Garden, James Thurman and Peter O. Peterson, from Allen's Camp,
+and they participated in starting a ditch from the river. There appeared
+to have been no indication of occupancy when, in March, 1877, Ammon M.
+Tenney passed through the valley and determined it a good place for
+location. In the following month, however, Cardon and two sons, and
+Wm. A. Walker came upon the ground, with other families, followed, three
+weeks later, by Nathan C. Tenney, father of Ammon M., with two sons, John
+T. and Samuel, Hans Gulbrandsen and Charles Riggs. For about a year the
+settlement was known simply as Tenney's Camp. L. H. Hatch was appointed
+to take charge in February, 1878. About that time the name of Woodruff
+was adopted, in honor of President Wilford Woodruff, this suggestion made
+by John W. Young. The first settlement was in a rock and adobe fort,
+forming a half square. There was a common dining room as, for a while,
+there was adherence to the system of the United Order. It is told that
+all save two of the settlers participated and there is memorandum of how
+three sisters were detailed weekly for cooking, with girls as assistants.
+
+In February, 1882, was survey of the present townsite, on which John
+Reidhead built the first house. This townsite was purchased from the
+Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Company, in May, 1889, for $8 an acre. At
+first it had not been appreciated that the town had not been built upon
+government land.
+
+The history of Woodruff has in it much of disastrous incident through the
+frequent breaking of the river dams. In May, 1880, the dam had to be cut
+by the settlers themselves, in order to permit the water to flow down to
+St. Joseph, where there was priority of appropriation. At several times,
+the Church organization helped in the repair or building of the many
+dams, after the settlers had spent everything they had and had reached
+the point of despair. At suggestion of Jesse N. Smith in 1884, all the
+brethren in the Stake were called upon to donate one day each of labor on
+the Woodruff dam. Up to 1890, the dam had been washed out seven times and
+even now there is trouble in its maintenance.
+
+Of passing interest is the fact that President Wilford Woodruff, after
+whom the settlement was named, was a visitor to Woodruff on at least two
+occasions, in 1879, and in 1887, when an exile from Utah. He was at Moen
+Copie when there came news, which later proved erroneous, that pursuers
+had crossed at Lee's Ferry. Then, guided by Richard Gibbons, he rode
+westward, making a stop of a few days at Fort Moroni.
+
+
+Holbrook Once Was Horsehead Crossing
+
+Holbrook, on the Little Colorado, county seat of Navajo County, shipping
+point on the Santa Fe railroad system for practically all of Navajo and
+Apache Counties, had Mormon inception, under its present name, that of an
+Atlantic and Pacific railroad locating engineer, F.A. Holbrook. The
+christening is said to have been done in 1881 by John W. Young, then a
+grading contractor, applied to a location two miles east of the present
+townsite. Young there had a store at his headquarters. Later the railroad
+authorities established the town on its present location.
+
+The settlement, since the first coming of English-speaking folk, had been
+known as Horsehead Crossing. For years before the railroad came, a
+roadside station was kept at the Crossing by a Mexican, Berardo, whose
+name was differently spelled by almost every traveler who wrote of him.
+One of the tales is from E.C. Bunch, who came as a young member of the
+Arkansas immigration in 1876, and who later became one of the leaders in
+Arizona education. He tells, in referring appreciatively to Mexican
+hospitality, that "Berrando's" sign, painted by an American, read, "If
+you have the money, you can eat." But the owner, feeling the misery
+coldheartedness might create, wrote below, "No got a money, eat anyway."
+Berardo loaned the colonists some cows, whose milk was most welcome.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Fifteen
+
+Settlement Spreads Southward
+
+
+Snowflake and its Naming
+
+Snowflake, one of the most prosperous of towns of Mormon origin, lies 28
+miles almost south of Holbrook, with which it was given railroad
+connection during 1919. The first settler was James Stinson who came in
+1873, and who, by 1878, had taken out the waters of Silver Creek for the
+irrigation of about 300 acres. In July, 1878, Stinson (later a resident
+of Tempe) sold to Wm. J. Flake for $11,000, paid in livestock.
+
+July 21, the first Mormons moved upon the Stinson place. They were Flake,
+James Gale, Jesse Brady, Alexander Stewart and Thomas West, with their
+families, most of them from the old Taylor settlement. Others followed
+soon thereafter, including six Taylor families, headed by John Kartchner,
+they taking the upper end of the valley.
+
+Actual foundation of the town came in an incident of the most memorable
+of the southwestern trips of Erastus Snow. He and his party arrived at
+the Kartchner ranch September 26, 1878, the location described by L. John
+Nuttall of the party as "a nice little valley." As bishop was appointed
+John Hunt of Savoia, who was with the Mormon Battalion, and who remained
+in the same capacity till 1910. Flake's location was considered best for
+a townsite and to it was given the name it now bears, honoring the
+visiting dignitary and the founder. The townsite was surveyed soon
+thereafter by Samuel G. Ladd of St. Joseph, who also laid out several
+ditch lines. Even before there was a town, there was a birth, that of
+William Taylor Gale, son of James Gale.
+
+[Illustration: ERASTUS SNOW. In Charge of Pioneer Arizona Colonization]
+
+[Illustration: JOSEPH W. McMURRIN]
+
+[Illustration: ANTHONY W. IVINS]
+
+January 16, 1879, arrived Jesse N. Smith, president of the newly-created
+Eastern Arizona Stake, appointed on recommendation of Erastus Snow. After
+trying to negotiate for land at St. Johns, he returned, and he and his
+company concluded to locate in Snowflake, where they took up lots not
+already appropriated. The farming land went in a drawing of two parcels
+each to the city lot owners, who thus became possessed of twenty acres
+each. Joseph Fish headed a committee on distribution, which valued each
+city lot at $30, each first-class farming plot of ten acres at $110 and
+each second-class plot at $60, giving each shareholder property valued at
+$200, or ten head of stock, this being at the rate that Flake paid for
+the whole property. Flake took only one share.
+
+The Mormon towns usually were of the quietest, but occasionally had
+excitement brought to them. On one such occasion at Snowflake, December
+8, 1892, was killed Chas. L. Flake, son of Wm. J. Flake. A message had
+come from New Mexico asking detention of Will Mason, a desperado said to
+have had a record of seven murders. Charles and his brother, Jas. M.,
+attempted the arrest. Mason fired twice over his shoulder, the first
+bullet cutting James' left ear, and then shot Charles through the neck.
+Almost the same moment a bullet from James' pistol passed through the
+murderer's head, followed by a second.
+
+Of modern interest, indicative of the trend of public sentiment, is an
+agreement, entered into late in 1920, by the merchants of Snowflake and
+the towns to the southward, to sell no tobacco, in any form.
+
+Snowflake was the first county-seat of Apache County, created in 1879,
+the first court session held in the home of Wm. J. Flake. At the fall
+election, the courthouse was moved to St. Johns. In 1880, by the vote of
+Clifton, which then was within Apache County, Springerville was made the
+county seat. In 1882, St. Johns finally was chosen the seat of Apache
+County government.
+
+
+Joseph Fish, Historian
+
+The first consecutive history of Arizona, intended to be complete in its
+narration, undoubtedly was that written by Joseph Fish, for many years
+resident in or near Snowflake. Though Mr. Fish is a patriarch of the
+Mormon Church, his narration of events is entirely uncolored, unless by
+sympathy for the Indians. His work never had publication, a fact to be
+deplored. A copy of his manuscript is in the office of the State
+Historian, and another is possessed by Dr. J. A. Munk, held by him in his
+library of Arizoniana in the Southwestern Museum at Garvanza, Cal.
+
+The history has about 700 pages of typewritten matter, treating of events
+down to a comparatively late date. Mr. Fish has a clear and lucid style
+of narration and his work is both interesting and valuable. Though of no
+large means, he gathered, at his home on the Little Colorado, about 400
+books and magazines, and upon this basis and by personal interviews and
+correspondence he secured the data upon which he wrote. He is a native of
+Illinois, of Yankee stock, and is now in his eightieth year. He came to
+Arizona in 1879 and the next year was in charge of the commissary
+department for the contract of John W. Young in the building of the
+Atlantic and Pacific railroad. His first historical work was done as
+clerk of the Eastern Arizona Stake. In 1902 he began work on another
+historical volume, "The Pioneers of the Rocky Mountains." He now is
+resident in Enterprise, Utah.
+
+Another historic character resident in the Stake was Ralph Ramsey, the
+artist in wood who carved the eagle that overspreads the Eagle gate in
+Salt Lake City.
+
+
+Taylor, Second of the Name
+
+Taylor, the second settlement of the name in the Mormon northeastern
+occupation, lies three miles south of Snowflake (which it antedates). It
+is on Silver Creek, which is spanned by a remarkable suspension bridge
+that connects two sections of the town. When the first Mormon residents
+came, early in 1878 the settlement was known as Bagley. Then there was to
+be change to Walker, but the Postoffice Department objected, as another
+Walker existed, near Prescott. The present name, honoring John Taylor,
+president of the Church, was adopted in 1881, at the suggestion of Stake
+President Jesse N. Smith.
+
+The first settler was James Pearce, a noted character in southwestern
+annals, son of the founder of Pearce's Ferry across the Colorado at the
+mouth of Grand Wash, at the lower end of the Grand Canyon. James Pearce
+was a pioneer missionary with Jacob Hamblin among the Paiutes of the
+Nevada Muddy region and the Hopi and Navajo of northeastern Arizona. He
+came January 23, 1878, in March joined by John H. Standiford. Other early
+arrivals were Jos. C. Kay, Jesse H. and Wm. A. Walker, Lorenzo Hatch, an
+early missionary to the northeastern Arizona Indians, Noah Brimhall and
+Daniel Bagley. A ditch was surveyed by Major Ladd, who did most of such
+work for all the settlements, but the townsite, established in 1878, on
+the recommendation, in September, of Erastus Snow, was surveyed in
+December by a group of interested residents, led by Jos. S. Carden, their
+"chain" being a rope. The irrigation troubles of the community appear to
+have been fewer than those of the Little Colorado towns, though in the
+great spring flood of 1890 the dams and bridges along Silver Creek were
+carried away.
+
+
+Shumway's Historic Founder
+
+Shumway, on Silver Creek, five miles above Taylor, has interest of
+historical sort in the fact that it was named after an early settler
+Charles Shumway, one of the most noted of the patriarchs of the Church.
+He was the first to cross the Mississippi, February 4, 1846, in the
+exodus from Nauvoo, and was one of the 143 Pioneers who entered Salt Lake
+with Brigham Young the following summer. In December, 1879, his son,
+Wilson G. Shumway, accepted a call to Arizona. Most of the winter was
+spent at Grand Falls in a "shack" he built of cottonwood logs, roofed
+with sandstone slabs. In this he entertained Apostle Woodruff, who
+directed the chiseling of the name "Wilford Woodruff" upon a rock.
+Charles Shumway and N.P. Beebe bought the mill rights on Silver Creek,
+acquired through location the previous year by Nathan C. and Jesse
+Wanslee, brought machinery from the East and, within a year, started a
+grist mill that still is a local institution. The village of Shumway
+never has had more than a score of families. Charles Shumway died May 21,
+1898. His record of self-sacrifice continued after his arrival in Arizona
+early in 1880, the first stop being at Concho. There, according to his
+son, Wilson G., the family for two years could have been rated as among
+"the poorest of poor pioneers," with a dugout for a home, this later
+succeeded by a log cabin of comparative luxury. For months the bread was
+of barley flour, the diet later having variety, changed to corn bread and
+molasses, with wheat flour bread as a treat on Sundays.
+
+
+Showlow Won in a Game of "Seven-Up"
+
+Showlow, one of the freak Arizona place names, applied to a creek and
+district, as well as to a thrifty little settlement, lies about south of
+Snowflake, twenty miles or more. The name antedates the Mormon
+settlement. The valley jointly was held by C.E. Cooley and Marion Clark,
+both devoted to the card game of "seven-up." At a critical period of one
+of their games, when about all possible property had been wagered, Clark
+exclaimed, "Show low and you take the ranch!" Cooley "showed low." This
+same property later was sold by him to W.J. Flake, for $13,000.
+
+The Showlow section embraces the mountain communities of Showlow,
+Reidhead (Lone Pine), Pinedale, Linden, Juniper, Adair (which once had
+unhappy designation as "Fools' Hollow"), Ellsworth, Lakeside (also known
+as Fairview and Woodland), Pinetop and Cluff's Cienega. Cooley, in the
+Cienega (Sp., marsh) is the site of a large sawmill and is the terminus
+of a railroad from Holbrook. But the noted scout Cooley, lived elsewhere,
+at Showlow and at Apache Springs.
+
+The first Mormons to come to Showlow were Alfred Cluff and David E.
+Adams, who were employed by Cooley in 1876. They were from Allen's Camp,
+almost driven away by necessity. Others soon came, including Moses and
+Orson Cluff, Edmund Ellsworth and Edson Whipple, a Salt Lake Pioneer.
+There was gradual settlement of the communities above listed, generally
+prior to 1880. While only one member of the faith was killed during the
+Indian troubles of the eighties, log and stone forts were erected in
+several of the villages for use in case of need.
+
+
+Mountain Communities
+
+Out in the woods, twenty miles southwest of Snowflake, is the village of
+Pinedale, settled in January, 1879, by Niels Mortensen and sons and Niels
+Peterson. The first location was at what now is called East Pinedale,
+also known at different times as Mortensen and Percheron. In the
+following winter, a small sawmill was brought in from Fort Apache and in
+1882 came a larger mill, the original Mount Trumbull mill. In that year a
+townsite had rough survey by James Huff and in 1885 a schoolhouse was
+built. The brethren had much trouble with desperados, horse and cattle
+thieves, but peace came after the Pleasant Valley war in Tonto Basin, in
+which thirty of the range riders were killed.
+
+Reidhead, also known at times as Woolf's Ranch, Lone Pine Crossing,
+Beaver Branch and Reidhead Crossing, is one of the deserted points of
+early settlement, historically important mainly in the fact that it was
+the home of Nathan B. Robinson, killed nearby by Apaches June 1, 1882.
+Fear of the Indians then drove away the other settlers and, though there
+was later return, in 1893 was final abandonment. Reidhead lay on Showlow
+Creek, ten miles above Taylor and ten miles from Cooley's ranch. It was
+one of the places of first white settlement in northeastern Arizona,
+a Mexican having had his ranch there even before Cooley came into the
+country. Then came one Woolf, from whom squatter rights were bought in
+April, 1878, by John Reidhead, then lately from Utah.
+
+Pinetop, 35 miles south of Snowflake, dates back to March, 1888, when
+settled by Wm. L. Penrod and sons, including four families, all from
+Provo, Utah. Progress started with the transfer to Pinetop of the Mount
+Trumbull mill in 1890. The name is said to have been given by soldiers,
+the first designation having been Penrod. A notable event in local
+history was a joint conference in Pinetop, July 4, 1892, with
+representatives from all Arizona Stakes and attended by President
+Woodruff's counselors, Geo. Q. Cannon and Jos. F. Smith. For this special
+occasion was built a pavilion, the largest in Arizona, a notable
+undertaking for a small community. The structure was destroyed by fire a
+few years ago.
+
+
+Forest Dale on the Reservation
+
+In the settlement of what now is southern Navajo County, the Mormon
+settlers a bit overran the present line of the Apache Indian reservation,
+where they located early in 1878 upon what now is known as Forest Dale
+Creek, a tributary of Carrizo Creek. The country is a beautiful one, well
+watered from abundant rains and well wooded, possibly a bit more favored
+than the present settlements of Showlow, Pinetop and Lakeside, which lie
+just north of the reservation line. There is reference in a letter of
+Llewellyn Harris, in July, 1878, to the settlement of Forest Dale, but
+the name is found in writings several months before. Harris and several
+others refer to the Little Colorado country as being in "Aravapai"
+County. This was in error. The county then was Yavapai, before the
+separation of Apache County.
+
+The valley was found by Oscar Cluff while hunting in the fall of 1877 and
+soon thereafter he moved there with his family. In February there
+followed his brother, Alfred Cluff, who suggested the name. The
+settlement was started February 18, 1878, by Jos. H. Frisby, Merritt
+Staley, Oscar Mann, Orson and Alfred Cluff, Ebenezer Thayne, David E.
+Adams and a few others.
+
+The overrunning referred to was not done blindly. Jos. H. Frisby and
+Alfred Cluff went to San Carlos. There they were assured by Agent Hart
+that Apache Springs and the creek referred to were not on the
+reservation, and that the government would protect them if they would
+settle there. It was understood that the reservation line lay about three
+miles south of the settlement. This information is contained in a letter
+signed by Agent Hart and addressed to Colonel Andrews, Eleventh Infantry,
+commanding Fort Apache. Mr. Hart stated that he would be "glad to have
+the settlers make permanent homes at Forest Dale, for the reason that the
+Indians strayed so far from their own lands that it was hard to keep
+track of them as conditions then were, and that the settlement of the
+country would have a tendency to hold the Indians on their own lands upon
+the reservation."
+
+Lieutenant Ray was sent with a detachment of troops and the Indians at
+Apache Springs were removed and the main body of the settlers, then
+temporarily located on the Showlow, moved over the ridge into the new
+valley.
+
+In March, 1878, the settlers included Merritt Staley, Oscar Mann,
+Ebenezer Thayne, David E. Adams, Jos. H. Frisby, Alfred Cluff, Isaac
+Follett, Orson Cluff and several unmarried men. In September, Erastus
+Snow found a very prosperous settlement. A ward organization was
+established. The first white child, Forest Dale Adams, is now the wife of
+Frank Webster, of Central, Arizona. Seven springs of good water, known as
+Apache Springs, formed the headwaters of Carrizo Creek.
+
+In 1879, Missionaries Harris and Thayne appear to have made a mistake
+similar to that of the Arab who allowed the camel to thrust his nose
+inside of the tent. They secured permission from the commanding officer
+of creek. The missionary efforts appear to have failed, and the Indians
+simply demanded everything in sight. Reports came that the locality
+really was on the reservation and the white population therefore drifted
+away, mainly into the Gila Valley. In December, 1879, only three families
+were left, and the following year the last were gone.
+
+In 1881 rumors drifted down the Little Colorado that Forest Dale, after
+all, was not on the reservation. So William Crookston and three others
+re-settled the place, some of them from the abandoned Brigham City. Then
+came the Indian troubles of 1881-82. When Fort Apache was attacked, the
+families consolidated at Cooley, where they built a fort. Some went north
+to Snowflake and Taylor. In December, 1881, President Jesse N. Smith of
+the Eastern Arizona Stake advised the Forest Dale settlers to satisfy the
+Indians for their claims on the place, and received assurance from
+General Carr at Fort Apache, that the locality most likely was not on the
+reservation and that, in case it was not, he would be pleased to have the
+Mormon settlers there. A new ward was established and William Ellsworth
+and twenty more families moved in, mainly from Brigham City. In May,
+1882, the Indians came again to plant corn and were wrathful to find the
+whites ahead of them. An officer was sent from Fort Apache and a treaty
+was made by which the Indians were given thirty acres of planted land.
+
+June 1, 1882, Apaches killed Nathan B. Robinson at the Reidhead place and
+shot Emer Plumb at Walnut Springs, during a period of general Indian
+unrest. Soon thereafter, President Smith advised the settlers that they
+had better look for other locations, as the ground was on the
+reservation.
+
+In December, Lieutenant Gatewood, under orders from Captain Crawford
+(names afterward famous in the Geronimo campaign to the southward) came
+from Fort Apache and advised the settlers they would be given until the
+spring to vacate. The crops were disposed of at Fort Apache and the
+spring of 1883 found Forest Dale deserted, houses, fences, corrals and
+every improvement left behind. The drift of the settlers was to the Gila
+Valley.
+
+[Illustration: JOSEPH FISH. An Arizona Historian]
+
+[Illustration: JOSEPH H. RICHARDS OF ST. JOSEPH. One of the few original
+settlers who still lives on the Little Colorado]
+
+[Illustration: A GROUP OF ST. JOSEPH PIONEERS AND HISTORIAN ANDREW
+JENSON]
+
+[Illustration: SHUMWAY AND THE OLD MILL ON SILVER CREEK]
+
+This Forest Dale affair was made a national matter, January 24, 1916,
+when a bill was introduced by Senator Ashurst of Arizona for the relief
+of Alfred Cluff, Orson Cluff, Henry E. Norton, Wm. B. Ballard, Elijah
+Hancock, Susan R. Saline, Oscar Mann, Celia Thayne, William Cox, Theodore
+Farley, Adelaide Laxton, Clara L. Tenney, Geo. M. Adams, Charlotte Jensen
+and Sophia Huff. Later additions were David E. Adams and Peter H.
+McBride.
+
+The amounts claimed by each varied from $2000 to $15,000. A similar bill
+had been introduced by the Senator in a previous Congress. In his
+statement to the Indian Affairs Committee, the Senator stated that the
+settlements had been on unreserved and vacant Government lands and
+that the reservation had been extended to cover the tract some time in
+1882.
+
+Appended were affidavits from each of the individuals claiming
+compensation. All told of moving during the winter, under conditions of
+great hardship, of cold and exposure and loss of property.
+
+David E. Adams, one of the few survivors of the Forest Dale settlement,
+lately advised the Author that the change in the reservation line
+undeniably was at the suggestion of C.E. Cooley, a noted Indian scout,
+who feared the Mormons would compete with him in supplying corn and
+forage to Fort Apache.
+
+
+Tonto Basin's Early Settlement
+
+Soon after location on the Little Colorado there was exploration to the
+southwest, with a view toward settlement extension. At the outset was
+encountered the very serious obstruction of the great Mogollon Rim, a
+precipice that averages more than 1000 feet in height for several hundred
+miles. Ways through this were found, however, into Tonto Basin, a great
+expanse, about 100 miles in length by 80 in width, lying south and
+southwest of the Rim, bounded on the west by the Mazatzal Mountains, and
+on the south and southeast by spurs of the Superstitions and Pinals. The
+Basin itself contains a sizable mountain range, the Sierra Ancha.
+
+The first exploration was made in July, 1876, by Wm. C. Allen, John
+Bushman, Pleasant Bradford and Peter Hansen. Their report was
+unfavorable, in considering settlement. In the fall of the following year
+there was exploration by John W. Freeman, John H. Willis, Thomas Clark,
+Alfred J. Randall, Willis Fuller and others. They returned a more
+favorable report. In March, 1878, Willis drove stock into the upper Basin
+and also took the first wagon to the East Verde Valley. He was followed
+by Freeman and family and Riel Allen. Freeman located a road to the Rim,
+from Pine Springs to Baker's Butte, about forty miles. Price W. Nielson
+(or Nelson) settled on Rye Creek, in 1878. In the following year was
+started the Pine settlement, about twenty miles north of the East Verde
+settlement, with Riel Allen at its head. There is record that most of the
+settlers on the East Verde moved away in 1879, mainly to Pine, and others
+back to the Little Colorado. However, the Author, in September of 1889,
+found a very prosperous little Mormon settlement on the East Verde,
+raising alfalfa, fruit and livestock. It was called Mazatzal City and lay
+within a few miles of the Natural Bridge, which is on the lower reaches
+of Pine Creek before that stream joins the East Verde.
+
+A settlement was in existence at least as late as 1889 on upper Tonto
+Creek. The first resident was David Gowan, discoverer of the Natural
+Bridge, he and two others taking advantage of the presence of a
+beaver-built log dam, from which an irrigating canal was started. The
+first of the Mormon settlers at that point, in 1883, were John and David
+W. Sanders, with their families, they followed by the Adams, Bagley and
+Gibson families. This location was a very lonely one, though less than
+ten miles, by rocky trail, from the town of Payson. It was not well
+populated, at any time, though soil, climate and water were good.
+
+Erastus Snow in 1878 made formal visit to the Tonto settlements. He found
+on Rye Creek the Price Nelson and Joseph Gibson families, less than a
+mile above where the stream entered Tonto Creek. Thereafter were visited
+the East Verde settlements, from which most of the men had gone to
+southern Utah after their families and stock, and Pine Creek and
+Strawberry Valley, where later was considerable settlement.
+
+According to Fish, the first settlement in Tonto Basin was by Al Rose, a
+Dane, in 1877, in Pleasant Valley, though he lived for only a few months
+in a stockade home which he erected. Then came G.S. Sixby and J. Church
+from California. There followed Ed. Rose, J.D. Tewksbury and sons, the
+Graham family and James Stinson, the last from Snowflake. Sixby is
+renowned as the hero of a wonderful experience in the spring of 1882,
+when, his brother and an employee killed, he held the fort of his log
+home against more than 100 Indians, the same band later fought and
+captured by Capt. Adna R. Chaffee in the fight of the Big Dry Wash.
+
+There was good reason for the delayed settlement of Tonto Basin, for it
+was a region traversed continually by a number of Indian tribes. It was a
+sort of No Man's Land, in which wandered the Mohave-Apache and the Tonto,
+the Cibicu and White Mountain Apaches, not always at peace among
+themselves. Several times the Pleasant and Cherry Creek Valleys were
+highways for Indian raids of large dimensions. The Pleasant Valley war,
+between the Tewksbury and Graham factions cost thirty lives. No Mormon
+participated.
+
+Most of the land holdings necessarily were small. The water supply is
+regular in only a few places. Hence it is natural that most of the
+Mormons who settled, moved on, to better agricultural conditions found
+farther southward. Abandonment of all Tonto Basin settlements was
+authorized at a meeting of President Woodruff with the heads of the
+Arizona Stakes, held at Albuquerque August 14, 1890.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Sixteen
+
+Little Colorado Settlements
+
+
+Genesis of St. Johns
+
+One of the most remarkable of Arizona settlements is St. Johns, 58 miles
+southeast of Holbrook, its railroad station. Though its development has
+been almost entirely Mormon and though it is headquarters for the St.
+Johns Stake of the Church, its foundation dates back of the Mormon
+occupation of the valley of the Little Colorado.
+
+Very early in the seventies, New Mexican cattle and sheep men spread
+their ranges over the mountains into the Little Colorado Valley and there
+were occasional camps of the Spanish-speaking people. In 1872 a mail
+carrier, John Walker, had built a cabin on the river, five miles below
+the site of St. Johns. As early as 1864 the locality had been visited by
+Solomon Barth, a Jewish trader, who dealt with the Indians as far
+eastward as Zuni and who, on burros, packed salt from the Zuni salt lake
+to the mining camps of the Prescott section. Barth, oddly enough, for a
+while had been connected with the Mormons, at the age of 13, a new
+arrival from Posen, East Prussia, joining his uncle in a push-cart
+caravan to Salt Lake. Later he was in San Bernardino, there remaining
+after the 1857 exodus, to go to La Paz, Arizona, in 1862. In 1864 he
+carried mail on the route from Albuquerque to Prescott, as contractor.
+In November, 1868, he was captured by Apaches, but was liberated, with
+several Mexican associates, all almost naked, reaching the Zuni villages,
+on foot, four days later. For food they shared the carcass of a small
+dog. In 1870 he was post trader at Fort Apache, then known as Camp Ord,
+in the year of its establishment. In 1873, a game of cards at El Badito
+(Little Crossing), a settlement on the Little Colorado, on the St. Johns
+site, determined his future terrestrial place of residence. From his
+adversaries, New Mexicans, he won several thousand head of sheep and
+several thousand dollars. Then he left the life of the road and settled
+down.
+
+A.F. Banta, a pioneer of Arizona pioneers, then known by his army name of
+Charlie Franklin, tells that he was at Badito (Vadito) in 1876, the place
+then on a mail route southward to Fort Apache and the military posts on
+the Gila. In the same connection, James D. Houck, in 1874, contracted to
+carry mail across the Little Colorado Valley, between Fort Wingate and
+Prescott. Another mail route was from Wingate to St. Johns and Apache.
+
+Sol Barth and his brothers, Morris and Nathan, settled at St. Johns in
+the fall of 1873, with a number of New Mexican laborers. At once was
+commenced construction of a dam across the Little Colorado and of ditches
+and there was farming of a few hundred acres adjoining the site of the
+present town. In all, Barth laid claim to 1200 acres of land, though it
+proved later he had only a squatter title. With him originated the name
+of St. Johns, at first San Juan, given in compliment to the first female
+resident, Senora Maria San Juan Baca de Padilla. With this conspicuous
+exception, all saintly names in Arizona were bestowed by either Catholic
+missionaries or by Mormons.
+
+Ammon M. Tenney, a scout of Mormondom second only to Jacob Hamblin, in
+1877 at Kanab received from President Brigham Young instructions to go
+into Arizona and select places for colonization. He visited many points
+in western New Mexico and eastern Arizona, but his recommendation was
+confined to St. Johns, Concho, sixteen miles west of St. Johns, The
+Meadows, eight miles northwest, and Woodruff.
+
+With the Tenney report in mind, in January, 1879, St. Johns was visited
+by Jesse N. Smith, just arrived in Arizona to be president of the Little
+Colorado Stake. But Smith was unable to make terms with Barth and his
+Mexican neighbors and turned back to Snowflake.
+
+
+Land Purchased by Mormons
+
+Under instructions from the Church, Ammon M. Tenney returned to St. Johns
+late in 1879 and, November 16, succeeded in effecting the purchase of the
+Barth interests, including three claims at The Meadows. The purchase
+price was 770 head of American cows, furnished by the Church, though 100
+were loaned by W. J. Flake. The value of the livestock, estimated at
+$19,000, in later years was donated by the Church toward the erection of
+the St. Johns academy. Other land purchases later were made by arriving
+members.
+
+Tenney was the first head of the colony, which was started in December,
+by the arrival of Jos. H. Watkins and Wm. F. James, missionaries sent
+from Ogden, who came with their families. In December, Apostle Wilford
+Woodruff, later President of the Church, held the first religious
+meeting, this at the home of Donasiano Gurule, a New Mexican. The Church
+authorities were active in their settlement plans and at a quarterly
+Stake conference in Snowflake, March 27, 1880, 190 souls were reported
+from the St. Johns branch.
+
+A few days after the conference, Apostle Woodruff located a townsite one
+and a half miles below the center of the present site. This location,
+though surveyed and with a few houses, was abandoned the following
+September, on recommendation of Apostles Erastus Snow and Francis M.
+Lyman, for higher ground, west and north of the Mexican village. In the
+summer of 1880 the settlement, named Salem, was given a postoffice, but
+the Mormon postmaster appointed, Sixtus E. Johnson, failed to secure his
+keys from a non-Mormon, E.S. Stover, incumbent at San Juan.
+
+A notable arrival, October 9, 1890, was David K. Udall, called from Kane
+County, Utah, to serve as bishop of St. Johns ward. With continuous
+ecclesiastical service, he now is president of St. Johns Stake, elevated
+in July, 1887.
+
+Occupation of the new townsite started early in October, 1880, the
+public square designated by President Jesse N. Smith on the 9th. Twenty
+square-rod city lots were laid off in blocks 24 rods square, with streets
+six rods wide. In the spring of 1881 the farming land was surveyed into
+forty 40-acre blocks, these later subdivided. During the winter of 1881
+was built a log schoolhouse, through private donations. The first teacher
+was Mrs. Anna Romney. The first church was a "bowery" of greasewood.
+
+That the years following hardly were ones of plenty is indicated by the
+fact that in the spring of 1885 President John Taylor issued a tithing
+office order for $1000 and $1187 more was collected in Utah stakes, to
+aid the St. Johns settlers in the purchase of foodstuffs and seed grain.
+
+A.F. Banta started a weekly newspaper, "The Pioneer Press," soon after
+occupation of the townsite, this journal in January, 1883, bought by
+Mormons and edited by M.P. Romney.
+
+
+Wild Celebration of St. John's Day
+
+There was a wild time in St. Johns on the day of the Mexican population's
+patron saint, San Juan, June 24, 1882, when Nat Greer and a band of Texas
+cowboys entered the Mexican town. The Greers had been unpopular with the
+Mexicans since they had marked a Mexican with an ear "underslope," as
+cattle are marked, this after a charge that their victim had been found
+in the act of stealing a Greer colt. The fight that followed the Greer
+entry had nothing at its initiation to do with the Mormon settlers.
+Assaulted by the Mexican police and populace, eight of the band rode
+away and four were penned into an uncompleted adobe house. Jim Vaughn of
+the raiders was killed and Harris Greer was wounded. On the attacking
+side was wounded Francisco Tafolla, whose son in later years was killed
+while serving in the Arizona Rangers. It was declared that several
+thousand shots had been fired, but there was a lull, in which the part of
+peacemaker was taken up by "Father" Nathan C. Tenney, a pioneer of
+Woodruff and father of Ammon M. Tenney. He walked to the house and
+induced the Greers to surrender. The Sheriff, E.S. Stover, was summoned
+and was in the act of taking the men to jail when a shot was fired from a
+loft of the Barth house, where a number of Mexicans had established
+themselves. The bullet, possibly intended for a Greer, passed through the
+patriarch's head and neck, killing him instantly. The Greers were
+threatened with lynching, but were saved by the sheriff's determination.
+Their case was taken to Prescott and they escaped with light punishment.
+
+[Illustration: FIRST MORMON SCHOOL, CHURCH AND BOWERY AT ST. JOHNS]
+
+[Illustration: DAVID K. UDALL AND HIS FIRST RESIDENCE AT ST. JOHNS]
+
+[Illustration: ST. JOHNS IN 1887. Sol Barth's House with the Tower]
+
+[Illustration: THE STAKE ACADEMY AT ST. JOHNS]
+
+In the fall of 1881 the community knew a summary execution of two men and
+there were other deeds of disorder, but in no wise did they affect the
+Mormon people, save that the lawless actions unsettled the usual peaceful
+conditions.
+
+
+Disputes Over Land Titles
+
+It is not within the province of this work to deal in matters of
+controversial sort, especially with those that may have affected the
+religious features of the Mormon settlement but there may be mention of a
+few of the difficulties that came to the people of St. Johns in their
+earlier days.
+
+The general subject of land titles in the Mormon settlements that came
+within the scope of railroad land grants has been referred to on other
+pages. In St. Johns there was added need for defense of the squatter
+titles secured from Barth and the Mexicans, while there was assault on
+the validity of the occupation of the townsite. On several occasions,
+especially in March, 1884, there was attempted "jumping" of the choicest
+lots and there was near approach to bloodshed, prevented only by the
+pacific determination of Bishop Udall. The opposition upset a house that
+had been placed upon one lot and riotous conditions prevailed for hours.
+reinforcements quickly came from outlying Mormon settlements and firearms
+were carried generally in self defense. A number of lawsuits had to be
+defended, at large expense. There was friction with the Mexican element,
+which lived compactly in the old town, just east of the Mormon
+settlement, and clashes were known with a non-Mormon American element
+that had political connection with the Mexicans.
+
+About May 18, 1884, was discovered a plot to waylay and harm Apostle
+Brigham Young, Jr., and Francis M. Lyman, on the road to Ramah, but a
+strong escort fended off the danger. In the Stake chronicles is told that
+the brethren for a time united in regular fasting and prayer, seeking
+protection from their enemies.
+
+
+Irrigation Difficulties and Disaster
+
+St. Johns had its irrigation troubles, just as did every other Little
+Colorado settlement, only on a larger scale. In the beginning of the
+Mormon settlement, claim was made by the Mexicans upon the larger part of
+the river flow. Later there was compromise on a basis of three-fifths of
+the flow to the Mormons and two-fifths to the Mexicans, and in 1886 a
+degree of stability was secured by formation of the St. Johns Irrigation
+Company. A large dam, six miles south of St. Johns, created what was
+called the Slough reservoir. However, this dam was washed out in 1903,
+after years of drought. Then were several years of discouragement and of
+loss of population.
+
+Thereafter came the idea of building a larger dam at a point twelve miles
+upstream, creating a reservoir to be drained through a deep cut. The plan
+was approved by the Church, which appropriated $5000 toward construction.
+There was formation of an irrigation company, to which was attached the
+name of Apostle F.M. Lyman, who had taken a personal interest in the
+improvement. A Colorado company provided one-half the necessary capital
+and the community the balance, and plans were made for the reclamation of
+15,000 acres upon higher land than had been irrigated before. After
+expenditure of $200,000, the dam was completed and the reservoir filled.
+Construction was faulty and in April, 1915, the dam was washed away, with
+attendant loss of eight lives and with large damage to flooded farms
+below. There was reorganization of the Lyman Company and about $200,000
+more was spent, with the desired end of water storage still unreached.
+Then came appeal to the State, which, through the State Loan Board,
+advanced large sums, taking as security mortgages on the land and dam.
+State investment in the Lyman project today approximates $800,000. The
+dam now is about finished and is claimed to be a structure that will
+stand all flood conditions.
+
+
+Meager Rations at Concho
+
+Concho was a Mexican village, at least a dozen years established, when
+the first Mormon settlers arrived. The name probably is from the Spanish
+word "concha," a shell. The settlement lies sixteen miles west of St.
+Johns. There were two sections, the older, in which Spanish was spoken
+and in which stock raising was the main occupation, and the Mormon
+settlement, a mile up the valley, in which there was effort to exist by
+agriculture on what was called a "putty" soil, with lack of sufficient
+water supply. The first of the Mormons to come was Bateman H. Wilhelm,
+who arrived in March, 1879. Soon thereafter Wm. J. Flake and Jesse J.
+Brady purchased the main part of the valley, the former paying for his
+half interest eight cows, one mule, a set of harness and a set of
+blacksmith tools. Before the end of the year, about thirty Saints were
+resident in the locality, some of the later arrivals being David
+Pulsipher, a Mormon Battalion member, Geo. H. Killian and Chas. G.
+Curtis. A townsite was roughly surveyed by brethren who laid their stakes
+by the North Star. September 26, 1880, there was organization of a Church
+ward and there was assumed the name of Erastus, in honor of Erastus Snow,
+who then was presiding at a Snowflake conference. This name was abandoned
+for that of Concho at a Church meeting held in St. Johns December 6,
+1895. In later years, the Mormon residents, after building a reservoir
+and expending much effort toward irrigation, generally have turned from
+agriculture to stock raising.
+
+Hunt is an agricultural settlement seventeen miles down the stream from
+St. Johns and one mile below a former Mexican settlement, near San
+Antonio, above which at some time subsequent to 1876 there settled an
+army officer named Hunt, who left the service at Fort Apache and whose
+descendants live in the county. The first Mormon settler was Thomas L.
+Greer in 1879, the old Greer ranch still maintained, a mile east of the
+present postoffice. Thereafter, the location was known as Greer Valley.
+In 1901, D.K. Udall became a resident and in that year his wife,
+appointed postmaster, was instrumental in naming the office and locality
+after her father, John Hunt, of the Mormon Battalion, who had a farm in
+the locality a year or so thereafter, though not actually resident.
+
+The Meadows purchase, eight miles northwest of St. Johns, was occupied
+November 28, 1879. Among the settlers was the famous Indian missionary,
+Ira Hatch.
+
+Walnut Grove, twenty miles south of St. Johns, was settled early in 1882
+by Jas. W. Wilkins and son, who bought Mexican claims. There was trouble
+over water priorities on the flow of the Little Colorado and the place
+now has small population, much of it Spanish-speaking.
+
+
+Springerville and Eagar
+
+Valle Redondo (Round Valley), 32 miles southeast of St. Johns, was the
+original name of the Springerville section. The first settler was Wm. R.
+Milligan, a Tennessean, who established a fort in the valley in 1871. The
+name was given in honor of Harry Springer, an Albuquerque merchant, who
+had a branch store in the valley. A.F. Banta states that the first town
+was across the Little Colorado from the present townsite. Banta was the
+first postmaster, in Becker's store.
+
+The first Mormons on the ground, in February, 1879, were Jens Skousen,
+Peter J. Christofferson and Jas. L. Robertson, from St. Joseph. Soon
+thereafter came Wm. J. Flake, with more cows available for trade, giving
+forty of them to one York, for a planted grain field. Flake did not
+remain. In March came John T. Eager, who located four miles south of the
+present Springerville, in Water Canyon, and about the same time arrived
+Jacob Hamblin, the scout missionary. The latter took up residence in the
+Milligan fort and was appointed to preside over the Saints of the
+vicinity, but remained only till winter.
+
+In 1882, President Jesse N. Smith divided Round Valley into two wards,
+the upper to be known as Amity and the lower as Omer. In 1888 the people
+of these wards established a townsite, two miles above and south of
+Springerville, which was a Spanish-speaking community. The new town, at
+first known as Union, later was named Eagar, after the three Eagar
+brothers.
+
+
+A Land of Beaver and Bear
+
+Nutrioso, sixteen miles southeast of Springerville, is very near the
+dividing ridge of the Gila and Little Colorado watersheds. The name
+is a combination of nutria (Sp., otter) and oso (Sp., bear). "Nutria"
+was applied to the beaver, of which there were many. The first
+English-speaking settler was Jas. G.H. Colter, a lumberman from
+Wisconsin, who came to Round Valley in July, 1875, driving three wagons
+from Atchison, Kansas, losing a half year's provision of food to Navajos,
+as toll for crossing the reservation. He grew barley for Fort Apache,
+getting $9 per 100 pounds. In 1879, at Nutrioso, he sold his farm, for
+300 head of cattle, to Wm. J. Flake. The Colter family for years had its
+home four miles above Springerville, at Colter, but the founder is in the
+Pioneers' Home at Prescott. One of the sons, Fred, was a candidate for
+Governor of Arizona in 1918.
+
+Flake parcelled out the land to John W., J. Jas. M. and Hyrum B.
+Clark, John W., J.Y., and David J. Lee, Geo. W. Adair, Albert Minerly,
+Adam Greenwood, George Peck and W. W. Pace, the last a citizen of later
+prominence in the Gila Valley. The grain they raised the first season,
+1700 bushels, chiefly barley, was sent as a "loan" to the Little Colorado
+settlers, who were very near starvation.
+
+In 1880 was built a fort, for there was fear of Apaches, who had been
+wiping out whole villages in New Mexico. There was concentration in
+Nutrioso of outlying settlers, but the Indians failed to give any direct
+trouble. A sawmill was started in 1881 and a schoolhouse was built the
+following year. A postoffice was established in 1883.
+
+In Lee's Valley, sixteen miles southwest of Springerville, is Greer,
+established by the Saints in 1879. The first to come were Peter J.
+Jensen, Lehi Smithson, James Hale, Heber Dalton and James Lee. In 1895,
+was added a saw-mill, built by Ellis W. Wiltbank and John M. Black. The
+name Greer was not applied till 1896. The postoffice dates from 1898.
+
+
+Altitudinous Agriculture at Alpine
+
+Alpine, in Bush Valley, near the southern edge of Apache County, four
+miles from the New Mexican line, has altitude approximating 8000 feet and
+has fame as probably being the highest locality in the United States
+where farming is successfully prosecuted. Greer is about the same
+altitude. The principal crop is oats, produced at the rate of 1000
+bushels for every adult male in the community. Crop failures are unknown,
+save when the grasshoppers come, as they have come in devouring clouds in
+a number of years. The location is a healthful and a beautiful one, in a
+valley surrounded by pines. Anderson Bush, not a Mormon, was the first
+settler, in 1876. March 27, 1879, came Fred Hamblin and Abraham Winsor,
+with their families. For years there were the wildest of frontier
+conditions, between outlaws and Indians. the latter stole horses and
+cattle, but spared Mormon lives. This was the more notable in that many
+villages of Spanish-speaking people were raided by the redskins in New
+Mexico. Naturally, the settlers huddled together, for better defense. In
+1880 the log homes were moved into a square, forming a very effective
+sort of fort, nearly a mile southeast of the present townsite. Until that
+time the community had kept the name of Frisco, given because of the
+nearby head-waters of the San Francisco River. In 1881 most of the
+settlers moved over to Nutrioso for protection, but only for a few weeks.
+Alpine is the resting place of the bones of Jacob Hamblin, most noted of
+southwestern missionaries of his faith.
+
+In 1920 the County Agricultural Agent reported that only two farmers in
+the United States were growing the Moshannock potato, Frederick Hamblin
+at Alpine and Wallace H. Larson at Lakeside.
+
+
+In Western New Mexico
+
+Luna, in New Mexico, twelve miles east of Alpine, Arizona, was on the
+sheep range of the Luna brothers, who did not welcome the advent of the
+first Mormon families, those of the Swapp brothers and Lorenzo Watson,
+February 28, 1883. Two prospectors had to be bought out, to clear a
+squatter's title. In the summer came "Parson" Geo. C. Williams, also a
+pioneer of Pleasanton. The first name adopted was Grant, in honor of
+Apostle Heber J. Grant, this later changed to Heber, as there was an
+older New Mexican settlement named Grant's. But even this conflicted
+with Heber, Arizona (named after Heber C. Kimball), and so the original
+name endures, made official in 1895. The first house was a log fort. A
+notable present resident is Frederick Hamblin, brother of Jacob and
+of the same frontier type. There is local pride over how he fought,
+single-handed, with a broken and unloaded rifle, the largest grizzly bear
+ever known in the surrounding Mogollon Mountains. This was in November,
+1888. The bear fought standing and was taller than Hamblin, a giant of a
+man, two inches over six feet in height. The rifle barrel was thrust down
+the bear's throat after the stock had been torn away, and upon the steel
+still are shown the marks of the brute's teeth. The same teeth were
+knocked out by the flailing blows of the desperate pioneer, who finally
+escaped when Bruin tired of the fight. Then Hamblin discovered himself
+badly hurt, one hand, especially, chewed by the bear. The animal later
+was killed by a neighbor and was identified by broken teeth and wounds.
+
+
+New Mexican Locations
+
+As before noted in this work, the Mormon Church sought little in New
+Mexico in the pioneering days, for little opportunity existed for
+settlement in the agricultural valleys. In western New Mexico, however,
+the country was more open and there was opportunity for missionary
+effort. Missionaries were in the Navajo and Zuni country in very early
+days and at the time of the great Mormon immigration of 1876 already
+there had been Indian conversions.
+
+In that year, by direct assignment from President Brigham Young, then at
+Kanab, Lorenzo Hatch, later joined by John Maughn, settled in the Zuni
+country, at Fish Springs and San Lorenzo. Thereafter, on arrival of
+other missionaries, were locations at Savoia and Savoietta. It should be
+explained that these names, pronounced as they stand, are rough-hewn
+renditions of the Spanish words cebolla, "onion," and cebolleta, "little
+onion." Nathan C. Tenney and sons were among the colonists of 1878.
+
+In 1880 were Indian troubles that caused abandonment of the locations,
+but a new start was made in 1882, when a number of families came from the
+deserted Brigham City and Sunset. A new village was started, about 25
+miles east of the Arizona line, at first known as Navajo, but later as
+Ramah. The public square was on the ruins of an ancient Indian pueblo.
+Ira Hatch came in the fall. A large degree of missionary success appears
+to have been achieved among the Zuni, with 165 baptisms by Ammon M.
+Tenney, but at times there was friction with Mexican residents. The land
+on which the town stood later had to be bought from a cattle company,
+which had secured title from the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Company.
+
+[Illustration: FOUNDERS OF NORTHERN ARIZONA TOWNS
+1--Henry W. Miller                       2--Wm. C. Allen
+3--George Lake          4--Wm. J. Flake  5--Charles Shumway
+6--Geo. H. Crosby, Sr.                   7--J.V. Bushman]
+
+[Illustration: A FEW MORE PIONEERS
+1--Almeda McClellan     6--Benj. F. Johnson
+2--Mrs. A.S. Gibbons    7--Martha Curtis
+3--Mary Richards        8--Josephine Curtis
+4--Joseph Foutz         9--Wm. N. Fife
+5--Virginia Curtis     10--J.D. Fife]
+
+Bluewater, near the Santa Fe railroad, about thirty miles northeast of
+Ramah, is a Church outpost, established in 1894 by Ernst A. Trietjen and
+Friehoff G. Nielson from Ramah. For a while, from 1905, it was the home
+of C.R. Hakes, former president of the Maricopa Stake. Bluewater now is a
+prosperous agricultural settlement, with assured stored water supply and
+an excellent market available for its products.
+
+Most southerly of the early New Mexican Church settlements was
+Pleasanton, on the San Francisco River, in Williams Valley, and sixty
+miles northwest of Silver City. The first settler was Geo. C. Williams,
+who came in 1879. At no time was there much population. Jacob Hamblin
+here spent the few last years of his life, dying August 31, 1886. His
+family was the last to quit the locality, departing in 1889.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Seventeen
+
+Economic Conditions
+
+
+Nature and Man Both Were Difficult
+
+To the struggle with the elements, to the difficulties that attended the
+breaking of a stubborn soil and to the agricultural utilization of a
+widely-varying water supply, to the burdens of drought and flood and
+disease was added the intermittent hostility of stock interests that
+would have stopped all farming encroachment upon the open range.
+Concerning this phase of frontier life in Arizona, the following is from
+the pen of B.H. Roberts:
+
+"The settlers in the St. Johns and Snowflake Stakes have met with great
+difficulties, first on account of the nature of the country itself, its
+variable periods of drought, sometimes long-continued, when the parched
+earth yields little on the ranges for the stock, and makes the supply of
+water for irrigation purposes uncertain; then came flood periods, that
+time and again destroyed reservoir dams and washed out miles of
+irrigating canals. This was also the region of great cattle and sheep
+companies, occupying the public domain with their herds, sometimes by
+lease from the government, sometimes by mere usurpation. The cattle and
+sheep companies and their employees waged fierce war upon each other for
+possession of the range, and both were opposed to the incoming of the
+settlers, as trespassers upon their preserves. The stock companies often
+infringed upon the settlers' rights, disturbed their peace, ran off their
+stock and resorted to occasional violence to discourage their settling in
+the country. Being 'Mormons,' the outlaw element of the community felt
+that they could trespass upon their rights with impunity, and the civil
+officers gave them none too warm a welcome into the Territory. The
+colonists, however, persisted in their efforts to form and maintain
+settlements in the face of all these discouraging circumstances. The
+fighting of the great cattle and sheep companies for possession of range
+privileges is now practically ended; the building of more substantial
+reservoirs is mastering the flood problems and the drought periods at the
+same time, and the Saints, by the uprightness of their lives, their
+industry, perseverance, and enterprise, have proven their value as
+citizens in the commonwealth, until the prejudices of the past, which
+gave them a cold reception on their advent into Arizona, and slight
+courtesy from the older settlers, have given way to more enlightened
+policies of friendship; and today peace and confidence and respect are
+accorded to the Latter-day Saints of Arizona."
+
+A view of early-day range conditions along the Little Colorado lately was
+given by David E. Adams:
+
+"When we came to Arizona in 1876, the hills and plains were covered with
+high grass and the country was not cut up with ravines and gullies as it
+is now. This has been brought about through over-stocking the ranges. On
+the Little Colorado we could cut hay for miles and miles in every
+direction. The Aztec Cattle Company brought tens of thousands of cattle
+into the country, claimed every other section, overstocked the range and
+fed out all the grass. Then the water, not being held back, followed the
+cattle trails and cut the country up. Later, tens of thousands of cattle
+died because of drought and lack of feed and disease. The river banks
+were covered with dead carcasses."
+
+Breaking the ground in Arizona was found a very serious task, even on the
+plains or where Nature had provided ample rains. Where industry created
+an oasis, to it ever swarmed the wild life of the surrounding hills or
+deserts. Prairie dogs, rabbits and coyotes took toll from the pioneer
+farmer, sometimes robbing him of the whole of the meager store of
+foodstuffs so necessary to maintain his family and to secure his
+residence. From 1884 to 1891 there were occasional visitations, in the
+Little Colorado Valley, of grasshoppers. For several years the settlement
+of Alpine was reported "devastated" and for a couple of years at Ramah
+the crops were so taken by grasshoppers that the men had to go elsewhere
+for work to secure sustenance for their families. St. Johns, Erastus and
+Luna all suffered severely at times from insect devastation. Winters were
+of unusual severity.
+
+
+Railroad Work Brought Bread
+
+Just as the Saints of Utah benefited by the construction of the Central
+and Union Pacific railroads, so there was benefit in northeastern
+Arizona through the work of building the Atlantic and Pacific railroad in
+1880-82. John W. Young and Jesse N. Smith, joined by Ammon M. Tenney, in
+the spring of 1880 took a contract for grading five miles, simply to
+secure bread for the people of the Little Colorado Valley. During the
+previous winter there had been a large immigration from Utah, where,
+erroneously, it had been reported the Arizonans had raised good crops, so
+comparatively little food was brought in. The limited crop of 1879 soon
+was consumed and the spring found the settlers almost starving. Lot Smith
+had loaned the people a quantity of wheat the previous season and much of
+the crop was due him.
+
+Young and Smith went as far as Pueblo, where they secured their contract
+and on their return made arrangements with merchants at Albuquerque for
+supplies. The first contract was for a section about 24 miles east of
+Fort Wingate, N.M., and to that point in July went all the men who could
+possibly leave home. The first company was from Snowflake, Jesse N. Smith
+taking about forty men. Soon thereafter, flour was sent back to the
+settlements and there was grateful relief. After a while, Smith drew out
+of the railroad work. Tenney returned to the railroad the following year
+to assist Young in filling a contract for the grading of 100 miles and
+the furnishing of 50,000 ties.
+
+The work on the railroad, while securing food in a critical period, still
+caused neglect of agriculture at home, where the few men remaining,
+together with the women and children, had to labor hard.
+
+
+Burden of a Railroad Land Grant
+
+The settlers on the Little Colorado appear to have had something more
+than their share of land trouble. Not only were hardships in their
+journeyings thither, with following privations in the breaking of the
+wilderness for the use of mankind, but there came an additional and
+serious blow when even title to their hard-earned lands was disputed,
+apparently upon adequate legal ground. The best story at hand concerning
+this feature of early life on the Little Colorado is found in the Fish
+manuscript, told by one who was on the ground at the time and who
+participated in the final settlement:
+
+"In March, 1872, the General Government gave a railroad land grant of
+every alternate section of land bordering the proposed Atlantic and
+Pacific railroad, extending out for forty miles each side of said road,
+through the public lands of the United States in the Territories of New
+Mexico and Arizona. The rule was that any lands settled upon, prior to
+the date of the grant, should be guaranteed to the settler, and the
+railroad be indemnified with as much land as was thus taken up on an
+additional grant of ten miles each side, called lieu lands, just outside
+the forty-mile limits of the main grant. In the fall of 1878 and the
+winter of 1879, when the settlers arrived on the ground where Snowflake
+and Taylor now stand, they supposed the railroad grant would doubtless
+lapse, as there was then no indication that the road would be built. They
+bought the Stinson ranch, paying an enormous price for it. The Government
+had not then surveyed the land and the government sections were not then
+open for entry at the land office. But early in 1880 the railroad company
+began building its road west from Albuquerque. In May of said year, Jesse
+N. Smith, on behalf of the settlers of Snowflake, applied to the railroad
+company for the railroad lands they occupied, and received the assurance
+that they, the settlers, should have the first right to their land, and
+the first refusal thereof, and that the price would not be raised on
+account of their improvements. The railroad company even furnished blank
+applications, which a number of the settlers made out and filed with the
+company, which were afterwards ignored. About this time capitalists and
+moneyed men, many of them foreigners, began turning their attention to
+cattle raising in our Territory. Among others, a company known as the
+Aztec Land and Cattle Company was organized, composed mostly of
+capitalists from the east. This company bought a very large block of the
+railroad lands, including Snowflake and Taylor, and all in that vicinity.
+The new owners immediately served notice on the settlers that they must
+buy or lease the railroad portion, the odd-numbered sections of the land
+they occupied. The settlers appointed Jesse N. Smith and Joseph Fish a
+committee to represent their claims, but no definite understanding could
+be obtained from the local officers of the company, all such business
+being referred to the central office in New York City. The railroad
+company not having sold the land at Woodruff, it served a similar notice
+on the settlers there, and it seemed that they would all be compelled to
+abandon their improvements and move away. In this emergency, the
+settlers, who were of the Mormon faith, applied to the Presidency of the
+Church for relief. An estimate of the value of the improvements of the
+settlers was made and the amount was found to so far exceed the probable
+cost of the land that the Presidency of the Church appropriated $500 for
+the expenses and sent Brigham Young, Jr., and Jesse N. Smith east to
+negotiate a purchase. They started on their mission in the latter part of
+February, 1889. They finally, on April 2, 1889, closed a contract in New
+York City for seven full sections of land at $4.50 per acre, one-fifth of
+the price being paid down, and Jesse N. Smith giving his note for the
+remainder, to run four years at 6 per cent interest; one-fourth the
+amount to be paid at the end of each year, and the interest to be added
+and paid every half year."
+
+While in New York they also bargained with J.A. Williamson, the railroad
+land commissioner, for one section of land at Woodruff at $8 per acre,
+one-half at the expiration of each year, with 6 per cent interest to be
+added each half year. Payment was made for the last purchase in
+Albuquerque, the contract being closed May 3, 1889. The Mormon Church
+furnished much of that money for these purchases, receiving back a small
+portion, as individuals were able to pay the same, and appropriating the
+remainder for the benefit of schools and reservoirs in the vicinity of
+said towns.
+
+
+Little Trouble With Indians
+
+It is notable that the settlers on the Little Colorado had very little
+actual trouble with the Indians, with the Navajo of the north or the
+Apache of the south. The Indians were frequent visitors to the
+settlements and were treated with usual Mormon hospitality. There were no
+depredations upon the livestock, and when the peace of the settlements
+was disturbed it was by the white man and not by the red brother. During
+the time of the building of the Atlantic and Pacific railroad, there was
+an Indian scare. This originated in the outbreak of Nockedaklinny, a
+medicine man of the Coyoteros, who, August 30, 1881, was killed in the
+Cibicu country, a day's travel from Fort Apache, by troops led by Col.
+E.A. Carr, Fifth Cavalry. Two days later the Indians attacked Camp Apache
+itself, after killing eight men on the road, and the post probably was
+saved from capture by the hurried return of its commander, with his
+troops. He left behind seven of his men, having been treacherously fired
+upon by 23 Indian scouts, whom he had taken with him. A number of murders
+were committed by the Indians in northern Tonto Basin, but the
+insurrection extended no farther northward than Camp Apache. Still it
+created great uneasiness within the comparatively unprotected settlements
+of the river valley. June 1, 1882, was the killing of Nathan B. Robinson,
+this the only Indian murder of a Mormon in this section.
+
+
+Church Administrative Features
+
+While this work in no wise seeks to carry through any records of Church
+authority, it happens that the leader in each of the southwestern
+migrations and settlements was a man appointed for that purpose by the
+Church Presidency and the greater number of the settlers came by direct
+Church "call." In the case of the Little Colorado settlements, this
+"call" was not released till January, 1900, in a letter of President
+Lorenzo Snow, borne to St. Johns by Apostle (now President) Heber J.
+Grant. The several organizations of the northeastern districts are set
+forth, with official exactness, by Historian Roberts, as follows:
+
+"On January 27, 1878, the Latter-day Saints who had settled on the Little
+Colorado, in Navajo (then Yavapai) County, under the leadership of Major
+Lot Smith, by that time grouped into four settlements, were organized
+into a Stake of Zion, with Lot Smith as president and Jacob Hamblin and
+Lorenzo H. Hatch as counselors. Three of the settlements were organized
+into wards, a bishop being appointed in each; the fourth was made a
+'branch' with a presiding elder. This was the first stake organization
+effected in Arizona. Before the expiration of the year, viz., 27th
+December, President John Taylor directed that the settlements forming
+further up the Little Colorado in Apache County, be organized into a
+Stake. A line running southward from Berardo's (now Holbrook, on the
+Santa Fe railroad), was to be the dividing line between the two Stakes
+thus proposed. The western division was to be the Little Colorado Stake,
+and the eastern division, Eastern Arizona Stake of Zion. The division of
+the Stakes on these lines was not carried out at that time; the Little
+Colorado continued for several years, while the Eastern Arizona Stake had
+within its jurisdiction, for a number of years, the settlements on Silver
+Creek, in the southeast corner of Navajo County, and also the settlement
+of St. Johns near the headwaters of the Little Colorado, and other minor
+settlements in Apache County. In 1887, however, the directions of
+President Taylor, with reference to the division of these settlements
+into two Stakes, were carried into effect. The name of the Eastern
+Arizona Stake, however, was changed at the time of the reorganization,
+July 23, 1887, to St. Johns Stake, David K. Udall, bishop of St. Johns,
+being chosen President, with Elijah Freeman and Wm. H. Gibbons as
+counselors. Later, viz., December 18, the settlements on the west side of
+the line running south from Holbrook, on upper Silver Creek, Woodruff
+Ward, and the fragments of settlements formerly constituting the Little
+Colorado Stake, by now discontinued, were organized under the name of the
+Snowflake Stake of Zion, Jesse N. Smith, formerly of the Eastern Arizona
+Stake, being made President."
+
+Here there may be notation that David K. Udall, still president at St.
+Johns, is one of the very oldest in seniority in such office within the
+Church. At Snowflake today the president is Samuel F. Smith, son of Jesse
+N. Smith, who died in his home town June 5, 1906.
+
+[Illustration: STAKE PRESIDENTS
+
+1--Lot Smith, Little Colorado
+3--Samuel F. Smith, Snowflake
+5--Christopher Layton, St. Joseph
+
+2--Jesse N. Smith, E. Ariz. and Snowflake
+4--David K. Udall. St. Johns
+6--Andrew Kimball, St. Joseph]
+
+[Illustration: SNOWFLAKE ACADEMY. Destroyed by Fire Thanksgiving Day,
+1910]
+
+[Illustration: PRESENT SNOWFLAKE ACADEMY. Dedicated Thanksgiving Day,
+1913--Cost $35,000]
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Eighteen
+
+Extension Toward Mexico
+
+
+Dan W. Jones' Great Exploring Trip
+
+The honor of leading Mormon pioneering in south-central Arizona lies with
+Daniel W. Jones, a sturdy character, strong in the faith. He had been in
+the Mexican war, in 1847, as a Missouri volunteer, and had remained in
+Mexico till 1850. In the latter year he started for California, from
+Santa Fe, and, in the Provo country of Utah, embraced Mormonism within a
+settlement that had treated him kindly after he had accidentally wounded
+himself. About that time he dedicated himself to life work among the
+Indians, the Lamanites of the Book of Mormon. He appeared to be
+successful thereafter in gaining the confidence of the red men and in
+carrying out the policy so literally expressed by Brigham Young, "It is
+cheaper to feed the Indians than to fight them." Speaking Spanish, he
+helped in translation by Meliton G. Trejo, of a part of the Book of
+Mormon.
+
+The printing done, a missionary party was started southward September 10,
+1875, from Nephi, Utah, its members being, besides Jones, J.Z. Stewart,
+Helaman Pratt, Wiley C. Jones, a son of the leader, R.H. Smith, Ammon M.
+Tenney and A.W. Ivins. The journey was on horseback, by way of Lee's
+Ferry and the Hopi Indian villages and thence to the southwest. At Pine
+Springs, in the Mogollons, were met Dr. J.W. Wharton and W.F. McNulty,
+who told them something of Phoenix and the Salt River Valley and who
+advised settlement in the upper valley.
+
+Jones' personal story of his impressions of the future metropolis of the
+State and of the Salt River Valley possibly should be given in his own
+language:
+
+"We were much surprised on entering Salt River Valley. We had traveled
+through deserts and mountains (with the exception of the Little Colorado
+Valley, a place which we did not particularly admire) for a long ways.
+Now there opened before us a sight truly lovely. A fertile looking soil
+and miles of level plain. In the distance the green cotton wood trees;
+and, what made the country look more real, was the thrifty little
+settlement of Phoenix, with its streets planted with shade trees for
+miles. Strange as it may seem, at the time we started, in September,
+1875, the valley of Salt River was not known even to Brigham Young.
+
+"Our animals were beginning to fail, as they had lived on grass since
+leaving Kanab. We bought corn at 4 cents a pound and commenced feeding
+them a little. Although Salt River Valley is naturally fertile, owing to
+the dryness of the climate, there is no grass except a little coarse
+stuff called 'sacaton.'
+
+"We camped on the north side of the river. On making inquiry, we learned
+that Tempe, or Hayden's Mill, seven miles further up the river, would be
+a better place to stop for a few days than Phoenix. C.T. Hayden, being
+one of the oldest and most enterprising settlers of the country, had
+built a grist mill, started ranches, opened a store, blacksmith shop,
+wagon shop, etc.
+
+"On arriving at Hayden's place, we found the owner an agreeable,
+intelligent gentleman, who was much interested in the settlement and
+development of the country, he being a pioneer in reality, having
+been for many years in the west, and could sympathize with the Mormon
+people in settling the deserts. He gave us much true and useful
+information about the country and natives. Here we traded off some of our
+pack mules and surplus provisions. We had already traded for a light
+spring wagon, finding that the country before could be traveled with
+wagons. We remained here a few days, camping at the ranch of Mr.
+Winchester Miller. His barley was up several inches high, but he allowed
+us to turn our animals into his fields and treated us in a kind,
+hospitable manner. The friendly acquaintance made at this time has always
+been kept up. Mr. Miller was an energetic man, and manifested a great
+desire to have the Mormons come there and settle. He had already noticed
+the place where the Jonesville ditch is now located. He told me about it,
+saying it was the best ditch site on the river. What he said has proved
+true. We wrote to President Young, describing the country."
+
+The party tried some proselyting among the Pimas and Papagos. At Tucson
+they met Governor Safford who offered welcome to Mormon colonists. Sonora
+was in the throes of revolution, so they passed on to El Paso, on the way
+talking to a camp of Apaches, given permission by the agent, Thos. T.
+Jeffords. The San Pedro Valley was looked over for possible settlement.
+
+In January, 1876, the party passed the international line at Paso del
+Norte. Jones claimed this to have been the first missionary expedition
+that ever entered Mexico. The party found it a good land and started back
+in May with a rather favorable impression of the country for future
+settlement. Return was by way of Bowie, Camp Grant and the Little
+Colorado. At Allen's Camp were met Daniel H. Wells, Brigham Young, Jr.,
+and Erastus Snow, with whom return to Utah was made. President Young was
+met late in June, at Kanab, there expressing appreciation of the
+determination that had brought Jones through every difficulty in the ten
+months of journeying.
+
+
+The Pratt-Stewart-Trejo Expedition
+
+Of notable interest is the fact that certain members of the Jones
+expedition were so deeply interested in what they saw that they made
+request for immediate return. So, October 18, 1876, there started
+southward, from Salt Lake, at the direction of the Church Presidency,
+another expedition, in character missionary, rather than for exploration.
+It embraced Helaman Pratt, Jas. Z. Stewart, Isaac J. Stewart, Louis Garff
+and George Terry. Meliton G. Trejo joined at Richfield. Phoenix was
+reached December 23, there being found several families of the Church who
+had come the previous year. The day the missionaries arrived happened to
+be exactly thirty years after the date on which the Mormon Battalion
+passed the Pima villages on the Gila River, just south of Phoenix. The
+members of the party worked all over southern Arizona, especially among
+the Mexicans and Indians.
+
+In February of 1877 headquarters were at Tubac. In April, after a Mexican
+trip, a letter was received from President Brigham Young asking that
+Sonora be explored as a country for possible settlement. Later in May the
+Stewarts started eastward, in continuing danger from hostile Apaches
+after they had crossed the San Pedro. On the road, while the missionaries
+were passing, a mail rider was killed. At Camp Bowie the Apaches were
+found beleaguering the post. East of that point the Stewarts had to
+replace a wagon tire just as they were passing a point of Apache ambush.
+Return to Utah was in December, 1877. It was concluded that border
+settlements better had wait on Indian pacification.
+
+Trejo was a remarkable character. He was of aristocratic Castilian birth
+and had been an officer in the Spanish army in the Philippines. It would
+appear that he became interested in the Mormon doctrine, which, in some
+manner, had reached that far around the earth, and that he resigned
+his commission and straightway went to Utah. There his knowledge of
+Spanish, backed by good general schooling, made him valuable as a
+translator, though his English was learned in the Jones family. His later
+work was in Arizona and Mexico, as a missionary, his home in 1878 moved
+to Saint David on the San Pedro, where he died a few years ago. He was a
+fluent writer and sent many interesting letters to the Deseret News. In
+January, 1878, he wrote from Hayden's Ferry:
+
+"We are now between the Salt and Gila Rivers, on a very extensive rich
+plain, covered with trees and small brush, watered in some places by
+means of canals from the two rivers named. The river dams and canals are
+very easy made, on account of the solid bottoms of the rivers and pure
+farming clay of the plain. In fact, the people who are now living here
+find it very easy to get good farms in one or two years without much hard
+labor. They unite as we do in making canals. The climate is one of the
+most delightful in the world and until a few years ago, one of the most
+healthy too, but lately the people have been troubled with fevers, which
+nobody seems to know the cause. The water is good and the sky is clear,
+there being no stagnant pools; the ground is dry and the winds blow
+freely in every direction. I don't believe these fevers are naturally in
+the country, but are caused by the people not taking proper care of
+themselves."
+
+An interesting letter has been found, dated at Tubac, March 4, 1877,
+addressed to President Brigham Young and written by Elder Jas. Z.
+Stewart. It told that the country is "better than the north part of the
+Territory, from the fact that the land is as good, if not better, the
+water is good and regular and the climate more pleasant." He referred
+to the ruins of whole towns, to the rich mines, to the abundance of game
+and to the drawback of Apache raids. He described the southern Arizona
+Mexicans as "all very poor, having no cows, horses, houses nor lands and
+but very little to live on. Though they live for days on parched corn,
+they are willing to divide their last meal with a stranger. They are
+industrious, but ignorant, it being seldom you can find one who can
+write."
+
+
+Start of the Lehi Community
+
+The reports from the south gave ample encouragement to expansion ideas
+within the First Presidency. So, after due deliberation, was organized
+another Jones expedition for the settlement of the land.
+
+As letters of the time are read and instructions found, it becomes the
+more evident that President Brigham Young and his counselors had in view
+a great plan of occupation of the intermountain valleys, reaching down
+into Mexico, or beyond. It was a time when the Church was growing
+very rapidly and when new lands were needed for converts who were
+streaming in from Europe or from the eastern States. Logically, the
+expansion would be southward, though there was disadvantage of very
+serious sort in the breaking of continuity of settlement by the Grand
+Canyon of the Colorado River and by the deserts that had to be passed to
+reach the fertile valleys of the southland.
+
+When the second Jones party started, according to an official account,
+"President Young sat with a large map of America before him, while saying
+that the company of missionaries called were to push ahead as far as
+possible toward the Yaqui country in Mexico, which would finally be the
+objective point; but if they could not reach that country they might
+locate on the San Pedro or Salt River in southern Arizona."
+
+[Illustration: GROUND PLAN OF LEHI]
+
+In either case there would be a station on the road, or a stepping stone
+to those who later would go on to the far south. President Young also
+said to the brethren on that occasion that if they would do what was
+right and be guided by the spirit of inspiration, they would know the
+country as they passed through, and would know where to locate, the same
+as did the Pioneers when they first reached the valley of the Great Salt
+Lake.
+
+The pioneering expedition was organized in St. George, in southwestern
+Utah. In the party were 83 individuals, the family heads being Jones,
+Philemon C. Merrill, Dudley J. Merrill, Thomas Merrill, Adelbert Merrill,
+Henry C. Rogers, George Steele, Thomas Biggs, Ross R. Rogers, John D.
+Brady, Joseph McRae, Isaac Turley and Austin O. Williams.
+
+Start was made January 17, 1877. The way was through Beaver Dams to the
+mouth of the Virgin. That profiteering was not unknown in those early
+days is shown by the fact that the expedition, at Stone's Ferry on the
+Colorado, had to pay ferriage of $10 per wagon. Much of this cost was
+borne by Joseph McRae, who turned over one wagon, some horses and a
+little money to the ferryman.
+
+To the southward was found a road, well-traveled in those days, that led
+from the Fort Mohave ferry to Prescott. But Prescott, then the capital,
+was left to one side and a direct route was taken from Chino Valley,
+through Peeples Valley and Wickenburg, to Phoenix. At the latter point
+there was agreement that the travelers had about reached the limit of
+their resources and of the strength of their horses. There was
+remembrance of the valley section of which Winchester Miller had told. So
+determination to stop was reached in a council of the leaders. There was
+fear, apparently well grounded, that claim jumpers would cause trouble if
+the destination of the party became known. On this account, departure
+from Phoenix was not by way of Hayden's Ferry, but by the McDowell road,
+as far as Maryville, an abandoned military subpost and station on Salt
+River, at the Maricopa Wells-McDowell road ford. Here the river was
+crossed, and the weary immigrants were at their journey's end. The day
+was March 6, 1877. The camp was at the site of the canal head, the
+settlement later placed a few miles below.
+
+Henry C. Rogers took charge of the construction of the ditch, started the
+day after arrival. Ross R. Rogers was the engineer. His only instruments
+were a straight edge and a spirit level. This still is known as the Utah
+ditch. Its first cost was $4500. There was the planting of a nursery by
+George Steele, the trees kept alive by hauling water to them. Jones wrote
+to Salt Lake that Salt River was at least four times as big as the Provo
+and had to be tapped through deep cuts, as the channel was "too expensive
+to dam."
+
+Sunday, May 20, 1877, Jones baptized his first Indians in Salt River,
+four of the "Lamanites" being immersed. In July, 1877, Fort Utah was
+located as a place of protection. It was built upon the cross line of
+four quarter-sections of land, enclosed with an adobe wall, and with a
+well, on the inside, 25 feet deep. The families lived there while the men
+went out to work.
+
+President Young soon wrote Jones in a vein indicating that the stop on
+Salt River was considered merely a camp on the way still farther
+southward, saying:
+
+"We should also like to know what your intentions are with regard to
+settling the region for which you originally started. We do not deem it
+prudent for you to break up your present location, but, possibly next
+fall, you will find it consistent to continue your journey with a portion
+of those who are now with you, while others will come and occupy the
+places vacated by you. We do not, however, wish you to get the idea from
+the above remarks that we desire to hurry you away from where you are
+now, or to enforce a settlement in the district to which you refer, until
+it is safe to do so and free from the dangers of Indian difficulties; but
+we regard it as one of the spots where the Saints will, sooner or later,
+gather to build up Zion, and we feel the sooner the better."
+
+[Illustration: ON THE DESOLATE SANDY ROAD TO THE COLORADO CROSSING]
+
+[Illustration: LEADERS OF UNSUCCESSFUL EXPEDITIONS
+1--Horton D. Haight            2--Jacob Miller
+3--Daniel H. Wells             4--Lorenzo W. Roundy]
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST EXPEDITION INTO MEXICO
+Wiley C. Jones, A. W. Ivins
+Heleman Pratt, D. W. Jones, Jas. Z. Stewart]
+
+[Illustration: THE SECOND PARTY SENT TO MEXICO
+1--Jas. Z. Stewart  2--Meliton O. Trejo
+3--George Terry  4--Isaac J. Stewart  5--Heleman Pratt]
+
+
+Transformation Wrought at Camp Utah
+
+The newcomers found pioneering conditions very harsh indeed, for it is a
+full man's task to clear away mesquite and brush and to dig a deep canal.
+Joseph A. McRae made special reference to the heat, to which the Utah
+settlers were unaccustomed. He wrote, "as summer advanced, I often
+saturated my clothing with water before starting to hoe a row of corn
+forty rods long, and before reaching the end my clothes were entirely
+dry." But there was raised an abundance of corn, sugar cane, melons and
+vegetables, and, in spite of the heat, the health of the people was
+excellent.
+
+Concerning the early Jonesville, a correspondent of the Prescott Miner
+wrote:
+
+"The work done by these people is simply astounding, and the alacrity and
+vim with which they go at it is decidedly in favor of cooperation or
+communism. Irrespective of capital invested, all share equally in the
+returns. The main canal is two and a half miles long, eight feet deep,
+and eight feet wide. Two miles of small ditch are completed and four more
+are required. Their diagram of the settlement, as it is to be, represents
+a mile square enclosed by an adobe wall about seven feet high. In the
+center is a square, or plaza, around which are buildings fronting
+outward. The middle of the plaza represents the back yards, in which
+eleven families, or eighty-five persons are to commingle. They are
+intelligent, and all Americans."
+
+The settlers, with their missionary turn of mind, were pleased to find
+the Indians of southern Arizona friendly and even inclined to be helpful.
+One chief offered to loan the settlers seed corn and wheat. The Indians
+gathered around to listen to whatever discourse the Saints should offer,
+the latter, at the same time energetically wielding shovels on a canal
+that "simply had" to be built in a given time.
+
+An appreciated feature was that Salt River abounded in fish,
+supplementing very acceptably the plain diet on which the pioneers had
+been subsisting. Possibly it was as well that the Saints had rules
+against the use of table luxuries. One pioneer of the Lehi settlement
+told how his family had lived for weeks almost entirely upon wheat,
+which had been ground in a coffee mill and then cooked into mush, to be
+eaten with milk. "We thought ourselves mighty fortunate to have the
+milk," he said.
+
+Soon after the settlement of Camp Utah, Jones' methods of administration
+excited keen opposition among the brethren. There was special objection
+to his plan that the settlement should receive Indians on a footing of
+equality, this being defended as a method that assuredly would tend
+toward the conversion of the Lamanites speedily and effectively.
+
+Jones was fair in his statement of the matter, and hence special interest
+attaches to his own story of the earliest days of the settlement:
+
+"We commenced on the ditch March 7, 1877. All hands worked with a will.
+Part of the company moved down on to lands located for settlements. Most
+of the able-bodied men formed a working camp near the head of the ditch,
+where a deep cut had to be made.
+
+"We hired considerable help when we could procure it, for such pay as we
+could command, as scrub ponies, 'Hayden scrip,' etc. Among those employed
+were a number of Indians, Pimas, Maricopas, Pagagos, Yumas, Yaquis and
+one or two Apache-Mohaves. The most of them were good workers.
+
+"Some of the Indians expressed a desire to come and settle with us. This
+was the most interesting part of the mission to me, and I naturally
+supposed that all the company felt the same spirit, but I soon found my
+mistake, for, on making this desire of the Indians known to the company,
+many objected, some saying that they did not want their families brought
+into association with these dirty Indians. So little interest was
+manifested by the company that I made the mistake of jumping at the
+conclusion that I would have to go ahead whether I was backed up or not.
+I learned afterward that if I had been more patient and faithful, I would
+have had more help, but at the time I acted according to the best light I
+had and determined to stick to the Indians.
+
+"This spirit manifested to the company showing a preference to the
+natives, naturally created a prejudice against me. Soon dissatisfaction
+commenced to show. The result was that most of the company left and went
+on to the San Pedro, in southern Arizona, led by P.C. Merrill. After this
+move, there being but four families left, and one of these soon leaving,
+our little colony was quite weak."
+
+
+Departure of the Merrill Party
+
+It was a sad blow to the settlement when the Merrill company departed, in
+August, 1877, leaving only the Jones, Biggs, Rogers and Turley families.
+Nearly all the teams available went with the Merrills, thus delaying
+completion of the canal, which at that time had reached the settlement.
+The fort also was left in an incomplete state. The few left behind mainly
+were employed by Chas. T. Hayden of Tempe, who was described as, "so very
+kind to the brethren and their families, giving them work and furnishing
+them with means in advance, on credit, so that they might subsist."
+
+A very interesting item in a letter written by Jones is:
+
+"This country is so productive and easy of cultivation, but,
+notwithstanding, this colony was too poor at seed time to buy a common
+plow. From present prospects, we hope to be able to save up and have
+enough for seed and plow the coming season. You speak of the ancient
+Egyptians using a crooked stick for plowing; if you will call down here
+soon, we can show you some 300 acres of good wheat patch plowed by our
+colony with a crooked stick plow, without so much as a ram's horn point."
+
+Probably Jones included a part of the holdings of his Indian wards in
+this demonstration of primeval agriculture. For years following the
+advent of the white man, the Pima Indians habitually plowed by means of a
+crooked mesquite stick, connected by a rope to a pole, tied firmly across
+the horns of a couple of oxen.
+
+Whatever the dissension between Jones and the other pioneers, he appeared
+at all times to have been popular with his Indian wards. This is
+evidenced by the fact that to the north of Lehi is a thriving Pima-Papago
+Mormon settlement, known as Papago ward. Dan P. Jones followed his father
+in its administration. A few years ago it had a population of 590
+Indians, mainly Pimas, and of four white families, headed by Geo. F.
+Tiffany, with an Indian counselor, Incarnacion Valenzuela. This counselor
+has been described by Historian Jenson as "one of the most intelligent
+Indians I have ever met. He speaks Spanish fluently, as well as the
+Papago and Pima language; he also understands English, but does not like
+to speak it." Henry C. Rogers also was a successful Indian missionary.
+Tiffany's son now is in charge of the Lehi Indians.
+
+Besides the Indians directly belonging to the ward, is a record of 1500
+baptized Mormon Indians, mainly Papago, in the desert region to the
+southward, as far as the Mexican line.
+
+Sunday schools and meetings are held in the Papago ward schoolhouse,
+built a few years ago. The Indians farm and raise stock; some of them
+live in good houses and all are learning the habits and ways of their
+neighbors, who have been their friends from the beginning.
+
+Jones was charged by the people of Phoenix and Tempe with protection of
+Indians who had trespassed upon crops. He was warned by the Indian agent
+at Sacaton that he must cease his proselyting, a warning he calmly
+ignored. He seemed to have had assistance generally from the military
+authorities at Camp McDowell, about fifteen miles northward, for a time
+commanded by Capt. Adna R. Chaffee, Sixth Cavalry. Trouble was known with
+Pima Indians, who lived across the river, where they had been placed a
+few years before by Tempe settlers, as a possible buffer against Apache
+raids. This reservation's extension cost Lehi several sections of land.
+
+Altogether, Jones' life in the Salt River Valley was not an easy one.
+Finally he joined a community in northern Tonto Basin, where his wife and
+youngest child were killed by accident. After that he moved to Tempe.
+Thereafter he went to Mexico, where he had mining experience. In the
+winter of 1884, he helped Erastus Snow and Samuel H. Hill to cross the
+border at El Paso. His latter days mainly were spent in Utah and
+California. Early in 1915 he returned to Arizona. His death occurred
+April 20 of that year, at the Mesa home of a son. His life work is well
+set out in a book written by himself and published in 1890. The
+descendants of the sturdy old pioneer are many in southern Arizona and
+numbers of them have occupied responsible office with credit. A son, Dan.
+P. Jones of Mesa, is a member of the current Legislature. Other sons and
+grandsons have been prominent especially in educational work.
+
+
+Lehi's Later Development
+
+Lehi now is a thriving settlement in bottom lands along Salt River, where
+growth necessarily is limited. Its school-house is about three miles
+north of Mesa, which has made by far the greater growth. First known as
+Camp Utah, or Utahville, for years it was called Jonesville, but finally
+the postoffice name of Lehi, suggested by Apostle Brigham Young, Jr., has
+firmly attached.
+
+The first Mormon marriage in the Salt River Valley was at Lehi, that of
+Daniel P. Jones and Mary E. Merrill, August 26, 1877. The first birth was
+of their son. The first permanent separate house, of adobe, at Lehi, was
+built by Thomas Biggs, in the spring of 1878. There was a public school
+as early as 1878, taught by Miss Zula Pomeroy. In 1880 an adobe
+schoolhouse was built at a cost of $142, the ground donated by Henry C.
+Rogers, with David Kimball its main supporter. The following year was
+built a much better schoolhouse.
+
+The settlement has a townsite of six blocks, each 26 rods square, with
+streets four rods wide, surveyed in November, 1880, by Henry C. Rogers.
+
+Lehi was badly damaged February 19, 1891, when Salt River reached a
+height never known before or since. The stream flooded the lower parts of
+Phoenix and inundated a large part of the farming land at Lehi. A second
+flood, a few days later, was three feet higher than the first. Five Lehi
+Indians were drowned and several hundred of them lost their possessions.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Nineteen
+
+The Planting of Mesa
+
+
+Transformation of a Desert Plain
+
+Though by no means with exclusive population of the faith, Mesa, sixteen
+miles east of Phoenix and in the Salt River Valley, today includes the
+largest organization of the Saints within Arizona and is the center of
+one of the most prosperous Stakes of the Church. It is beautifully
+located on a broad tableland, from which its Spanish name is derived, and
+is the center of one of the richest of farming communities. In general,
+the soil is of the best, without alkali, and its products cover almost
+anything that can be grown in the temperate or semi-tropic zones.
+
+At all times since its settlement, Mesa has prospered, but its prosperity
+has been especially notable since the development, a few years ago, of
+the Pima long-staple cotton. Nearly every landowner, and Mesa is a
+settlement of landowners, has prospered through this industry, though
+it has been affected by the post-war depression. The region is one of
+comfortable, spacious homes and of well-tilled farms, with less acreage
+to each holding than known elsewhere in the valley.
+
+Mesa is second only to Phoenix in size and importance within Maricopa
+County. There are fine business blocks and all evidences of mercantile
+activity. The farming area is being extended immensely. The community was
+one of the first to enter the association that secured storage of water
+at Roosevelt. Thereafter, to the southward came extension of the farming
+area by means of pumping, this continuing nearly to the Gila River, out
+upon the Pima reservation. Now there is further extension eastward, and
+the great plain that stretches as far as Florence is being settled by
+population very generally tributary to Mesa. It would be idle to
+speculate upon the future of the city, but its tributary farming country
+is fully as great as that which surrounds Phoenix.
+
+Mesa was founded by Latter-day Saints from Bear Lake County, Idaho, and
+Salt Lake County, Utah. The former left Paris, Idaho, September 14, 1877,
+were joined at Salt Lake City by the others and traveled the entire
+distance by wagon, using the Lee's Ferry route, and coming over the
+forested country to Camp Verde.
+
+The immigrants included, with their families, Chas. I. Robson, Charles
+Crismon (of the San Bernardino colony) of Salt Lake, Geo. W. Sirrine (of
+the Brooklyn ship party), Francis M. Pomeroy (a '47 pioneer), John H.
+Pomeroy, Warren L. Sirrine, Elijah Pomeroy, Parley P. Sirrine, all of
+Paris, Idaho, Wm. M. Newell, Wm. M. Schwartz, Job H. Smith, Jesse D.
+Hobson and J.H. Blair of Salt Lake. Altogether were 83 individuals.
+
+The valley of the Verde proved a pleasant one, after the cold and
+hardship known on the plateau, though Christmas was spent in a snowstorm.
+Both humanity and the horses needed rest. So camp was made at Beaver
+Head, a few miles from the river, while a scouting party went farther
+to spy out the land. This party, which went by wagon, included Robson, F.
+M. Pomeroy, Charles Crismon and G.W. Sirrine.
+
+The scouts, within a few days, had covered about 125 miles that lay
+between Beaver Head and Camp Utah. Their New Year dinner was taken with
+Jones, who extended them all welcome. It was proposed that the newcomers
+settle upon land adjoining that of the first party, but there was a
+likelihood of crowding in the relatively narrow river valley, and there
+were attractive possibilities lying along the remains of an ancient canal
+shown them by Jones.
+
+[Illustration: ORIGINAL LEHI LOCATORS
+1--Daniel W. Jones
+2--Philemon C. Merrill
+3--Thomas Biggs
+4--Henry C. Rogers]
+
+[Illustration: FOUNDERS OF MESA: Charles Crismon, Francis M. Pomeroy,
+George W. Sirrine]
+
+Legal appropriation of the head of this old water way was made and
+Crismon was left behind, with a couple of the Camp Utah men as helpers,
+to start work on the new irrigation project. Incidentally, Crismon made
+location of land near the heading and thus separated his interests from
+those of the main party. Later, he started a water-power grist mill on
+the Grand canal, east of Phoenix. He had rights to a large share in the
+canal, as well as to lands on the mesa. These he later sold.
+
+Robson, Pomeroy and Sirrine returned to the Verde Valley, to pilot the
+rested travelers southward. The journey was by way of the rocky Black
+Canyon road, with difficulty encountered in descending the steep Arastra
+Creek pass. Fording Salt River at Hayden's Ferry, Camp Utah was reached
+February 14, 1878. The journey had been a slow one, for cattle had to be
+driven.
+
+A few days were spent at Camp Utah and then the new arrivals moved
+upstream five miles, where tents were pitched on a pleasant flat, a
+couple of miles below the canal heading. There had been conclusion to
+settle upon the tableland to the southwest. Pomeroy and Sirrine made a
+rough, though sufficient, survey with straight-edge and spirit level,
+along what then was named the "Montezuma Canal," eleven miles to a point
+where a townsite was selected.
+
+
+Use of a Prehistoric Canal
+
+Nothing short of Providential was considered the finding of the canal,
+dug by a prehistoric people into the edge of the mesa, which it gradually
+surmounted. This canal, in all probability, had been cut more than 1000
+years before. It could be traced from the river for twenty miles,
+maintaining an even gradient, possibly as good as could have been laid
+out with a modern level, and with a number of laterals that spread over a
+country about as extensively cultivated as at present. A lateral served
+the Lehi section and other ditches conducted water to the southwest, past
+the famous ancient city of Los Muertos (later explored by Frank H.
+Cushing) and then around the southeastern foothills of the Salt River
+Mountains to points not far distant from the Gila River. The main canal
+cut through the tableland for two miles, with a top width of even fifty
+feet and a depth of twelve feet, chopped out in places, with stone axes,
+through a difficult formation of hardpan, "caliche." The old canal was
+cleaned out for the necessities of the pioneers, at a cost of about
+$48,000, including the head, and afterward was enlarged. At the time,
+there was an estimate that its utilization saved at least $20,000 in cost
+of excavation. There were 123 miles of these ancient canals.
+
+This canal undertaking was a tremendous one, especially in consideration
+of the fact that for the first five months the Mesa settlers available
+for work were only eighteen able-bodied men and boys. The brethren were
+hardly strong enough in man power to have dug the canal had it not been
+for the old channel. A small stream was led to the townsite in October,
+1878, and in the same month building construction was begun. An early
+settler wrote:
+
+"We were about nine months in getting a small stream of water out at an
+expense of $43,000 in money and labor, so that we could plant gardens and
+set out some fruit trees. A man was allowed $1.50 and a man and team $3
+per day for labor. Our ditch ran through some formation that would slack
+up like lime; and as whole sections of it would slide, it kept us busy
+nearly all the time the following year enlarging and repairing the canal.
+Our labors only lessened as our numbers increased, and the banks became
+more solid, so that today (1894) we have a good canal carrying about 7000
+inches of water."
+
+It would appear that a tremendous amount of optimism, energy and
+self-reliance lay in the leaders of the small community, in digging
+through the bank of a stubborn cliff, in throwing a rude dam across a
+great flood stream and in planting their homes far out on a plain that
+bore little evidence of agricultural possibilities, beyond a growth of
+creosote bush, the Larrea Mexicana. There were easier places where
+settlements might have been made, at Lehi or Tempe, or upon the smaller
+streams, but there must have been a vision rather broader than that of
+the original immigrant, a vision that later has merged into reality far
+larger and richer than had been the dream.
+
+Within this prosperity are included hundreds of Mormon pioneers and their
+children. It often is said that the development of a country is by the
+"breaking" of from three to four sets of immigrants. It is not true of
+Mesa, for there the original settlers and their stock generally still
+hold to the land.
+
+
+Moving Upon the Mesa Townsite
+
+The honor of erection of the first home upon the mesa lies with the
+Pomeroy family, though it was hardly considered as a house. Logs and
+timbers were hauled from the abandoned Maryville, an outpost of Fort
+McDowell, at the river crossing northeast of Fort Utah. It was erected
+Mexican fashion, the roof supported on stout poles, and then mudded walls
+were built up on arrowweed latticing. This Pomeroy residence later was
+used as the first meetinghouse, as the first schoolhouse and as the first
+dance hall, though its floor was of packed earth. It might be added that
+there were many dances, for the settlers were a lighthearted lot. Most of
+the settlers re-erected their tents, each family upon the lot that had
+been assigned.
+
+The first families on the mesa were those of John H. Pomeroy, Theodore
+Sirrine and Chas. H. Mallory. The Mallory and Sirrine homes quickly were
+started. Mallory's, the first adobe, was torn down early in 1921.
+
+By the end of November, 1878, all the families had moved from the river
+camp upon the new townsite.
+
+Early arrivals included a strong party from Montpelier, Bear Lake County,
+Idaho, the family heads John Hibbert, Hyrum S. Phelps, Charles C. Dana,
+John T. Lesueur, William Lesueur, John Davis, Geo. C. Dana and Charles
+Warner. Others, with their families, were Charles Crismon, Jr., Joseph
+Cain and William Brim from the Salt Lake section. Nearly all of the
+settlers who came in the earlier days to Mesa were fairly well-to-do,
+considered in a frontier way, and were people of education. Soon, by
+intelligence and industry, they made the desert bloom. Canals were
+extended all over the mesa. In 1879 was gathered the first crop of
+cereals and vegetables and that spring were planted many fruit trees,
+which grew wonderfully well in the rich, light soil.
+
+
+An Irrigation Clash That Did Not Come
+
+The summer of 1879 was one of the dryest ever recorded. Though less than
+20,000 acres were cultivated in the entire valley, the crops around
+Phoenix suffered for lack of water. Salt River was a dry sand expanse for
+five miles below the Mesa, Utah and Tempe canal headings. The Mormon
+water appropriation was blamed for this. So in Phoenix was organized an
+armed expedition of at least twenty farmers, who rode eastward, prepared
+to fight for their irrigation priority rights. But there was no battle.
+Instead, they were met in all mildness by Jones and others, who agreed
+that priority rights should prevail. There was inspection of the two
+Mormon ditches, in which less than 1000 miners' inches were flowing and
+then was agreement that the two canal headgates should be closed for
+three days, to see what effect this action would have on the lower water
+supply. But the added water merely was wasted. The sand expanse drank it
+up and the lower ditches were not benefited. There was no more trouble
+over water rights. Indeed, this is the only recorded approach to a clash
+known between the Mormon settlers and their neighbors.
+
+
+Mesa's Civic Administration
+
+In May, 1878, T.C. Sirrine located in his own name the section of land
+upon which Mesa City now stands, thereafter deeding it to Trustees C.I.
+Robson, G.W. Sirrine and F.M. Pomeroy, who named it and who platted it
+into blocks of ten acres each, with eight lots, and with streets 130 feet
+wide, the survey being made by A.M. Jones. Each settler for each share
+worked out in the Mesa canal, received four lots, or five acres. Two
+plazas were provided.
+
+For many years there was a general feeling that the streets of Mesa were
+entirely too wide, though it had been laid out in loving remembrance of
+Salt Lake City, and the question of ever paving (or even of crossing on a
+hot summer day) was serious. It appears from latter-day development that
+the old-timers builded wisely, for probably Mesa is alone in all of
+Arizona in having plenty of room for the parking of automobiles. The main
+streets have been paved at large expense. In several has been left very
+attractive center parking, for either grass or standing machines.
+
+Mesa was incorporated July 15, 1883. The first election chose A.F.
+Macdonald as Mayor, E. Pomeroy, G.W. Sirrine, W. Passey and A.F. Stewart
+as Councilmen, C. I. Robson as Recorder, J.H. Carter as Treasurer, H.C.
+Longmore as Assessor, W. Richins as Marshal, and H.S. Phelps as
+Poundkeeper. All were members of the faith, for others were very few in
+Mesa at that time.
+
+Growth was slow for a number of years, for in a city census, taken
+January 4, 1894, there was found population of only 648, with an
+assessment valuation of $106,000. The 1920 census found 3036.
+
+Mail at first was received at Hayden's Ferry. Soon thereafter was
+petition for a postoffice. The federal authorities refused the name of
+"Mesa" on the ground that it might be confused with Mesaville, a small
+office in Final County. So, in honor of their friend at the Ferry, there
+was acceptance of the name Hayden. Though the Ferry had the postoffice
+name of Tempe, there ensued much mixture of mail matter. In 1887, there
+followed a change in the postoffice name to Zenos, after a prophet of the
+Book of Mormon. In the order of things, Mesaville passed away and then
+the settlement quickly availed itself of the privilege opened, to restore
+the commonly accepted designation of Mesa.
+
+
+Foundation of Alma
+
+Alma is a prosperous western extension of Mesa, of which it is a fourth
+ward. The locality at first, and even unto this day, has borne the local
+name of Stringtown, for the houses are set along a beautiful country
+road, cottonwood-bordered for miles. The first settlers of the locality
+were Henry Standage (a veteran of the Mormon Battalion), Hyrum W. Pugh,
+Chauncey F. Rogers and Wm. N. Standage, with their families. These
+settlers constituted a party from Lewiston and Richmond, Cache County,
+Utah, and arrived at Mesa, January 19, 1880. In that same month they
+started work on an extension of the Mesa canal, soon thereafter aided by
+neighbors, who arrived early in 1881. There were good crops. Early in
+1882 houses were erected.
+
+
+Highways Into the Mountains
+
+In 1880, the Mesa authorities took steps to provide a better highway to
+Globe, this with the active cooperation of their friend, Chas. T. Hayden.
+Globe was a rich market for agricultural products, yet could be reached
+only by way of Florence and the Cane Springs and Pioneer road, over
+the summit of the Pinal Mountains, or by way of the almost impassable
+Reno Mountain road from McDowell into Tonto Basin, a road that was ridden
+in pain, but philosophically, by the members of the Erastus Snow party
+that passed in 1878. The idea of 1880 was to get through the Pinal
+Mountains, near Silver King. A new part of this route now is being taken
+by a State road that starts at Superior, cutting a shelf along the canyon
+side of Queen Creek, to establish the shortest possible road between Mesa
+and Globe. The first adequate highway ever had from Mesa eastward was the
+Roosevelt road, later known as the Apache Trail, built in 1905 by the
+Reclamation Service, to connect the valley with Roosevelt, which lies at
+the southern point of Tonto Basin.
+
+
+Hayden's Ferry, Latterly Tempe
+
+Tempe, eight miles east of Phoenix on Salt River, was first known as
+Hayden's Ferry. Its founder was Chas. Trumbull Hayden, a pioneer merchant
+who early saw the possibilities of development within the Salt River
+Valley and who built a flour mill that still is known by his name.
+Arizona's Congressman, Carl Hayden, is a son of the pioneer merchant,
+miller and ferryman. The name of Tempe (from a valley of ancient Greece)
+is credited to Darrell Duppa, a cultured Englishman, who is also
+understood to have named Phoenix. It was applied to Hayden's Ferry and
+also to a Mexican settlement, something over a half-mile distant, locally
+known as San Pablo.
+
+Hayden welcomed the advent of the Mormons, led to the country by Daniel
+W. Jones in 1877, and befriended those who followed, thus materially
+assisting in the upbuilding of the Lehi and Mesa settlements.
+
+Tempe, as a Mormon settlement, started July 23, 1882, in the purchase by
+Benjamin Franklin Johnson, Jos. E. Johnson and relatives, from Hayden, of
+eighty acres of land that lay between the ferry and the Mexican town. For
+this tract there was paid $3000. The Johnson party left Spring Lake,
+Utah, in April and traveled via Lee's Ferry. There was survey of the
+property into lots and blocks, and the Johnsons at once started upon the
+building of homes. There was included also a small cooperative store. The
+foundation was laid for a meeting house, but religious services usually
+were held in a bowery or in the district schoolhouse that had been built
+before the Saints came.
+
+In the fall of 1882 there arrived a number of families, most of them
+Johnsons or relatives. When the Maricopa Stake was organized December 10,
+1882, David T. LeBaron was presiding at Tempe. June 15, 1884, Tempe was
+organized as a ward, successively headed by Samuel Openshaw and Jas. F.
+Johnson.
+
+In August, 1887, most of Tempe's Mormon residents moved to Nephi, west of
+Mesa, mainly upon land acquired by Benj. F. Johnson, the settlement
+popularly known as Johnsonville. The departure hinged upon the building
+of a branch railroad of the Southern Pacific from Maricopa, through
+Tempe, to Phoenix. An offer was made by a newly-organized corporation for
+the land that had been taken by the Johnsons, who sold on terms then
+considered advantageous. Upon this land now is located a large part of
+the prosperous town of Tempe, within which is a considerable scattering
+of Mormon families, though without local organization.
+
+Patriarch B.F. Johnson died in Mesa, November 18, 1905, at the age of 87.
+At that time it was told that his descendants and those married into the
+family numbered 1500, probably constituting the largest family within the
+Church membership.
+
+
+Organization of the Maricopa Stake
+
+The Church history of Mesa started October 14, 1878, when Apostle Erastus
+Snow, on his memorable trip through the Southwest, at Fort Utah,
+appointed a late arrival, Jesse N. Perkins, as presiding elder and H.C.
+Rogers and G.W. Sirrine as counselors. Perkins died of smallpox in
+northeastern Arizona. In 1880, President John Taylor at St. George, Utah,
+appointed Alexander F. Macdonald to preside over the new stake. He
+arrived and took office in February of that year. Macdonald was a sturdy,
+lengthy Scotchman, a preacher of the rough and ready sort and of
+tremendous effectiveness, converted in Perth, in June, 1846, and a Salt
+Lake arrival by ox team in 1854. In 1882, on permanent organization of
+the Stake, Chas. I. Robson succeeded Sirrine as counselor. Robson
+December 4, 1887, succeeded to the presidency, with H.C. Rogers and
+Collins R. Hakes as counselors, Macdonald taking up leadership in the
+northern Mexican Stakes, pioneering work of difficulty for which he was
+especially well suited. In December, 1884, he headed an expedition and
+surveying party into Chihuahua, Mexico, looking for settlement locations,
+and secured large landed interests. He became ill at El Paso, on his way
+back to his home at Colonia Juarez. He died at Colonia Dublan, thirty
+miles short of his destination, March 21, 1903.
+
+[Illustration: MARICOPA STAKE PRESIDENTS
+1--Alexander F. Macdonald     3--Collins R. Hakes
+               2--Chas. I. Robson
+4--Jno. T. Lesueur        5--Jas. W. Lesueur]
+
+[Illustration: MARICOPA DELEGATION AT PINETOP CONFERENCE OF THE FOUR
+ARIZONA STAKES, JULY, 1892]
+
+Chas. I. Robson served as President to the day of his death, February 24,
+1894. He was of English ancestry, born February 20, 1837, in
+Northumberland. He was specially distinguished in the early days of Utah
+through his success in starting the first paper factory known in western
+America. As a boy, he had worked in a paper factory in England. In 1870,
+he was warden of the Utah penitentiary.
+
+May 10, 1894, Collins R. Hakes (of the San Bernardino colony) succeeded
+to the presidency of Maricopa Stake, with Henry C. Rogers and Jas. F.
+Johnson as counselors. At that time were five organized wards, with 2446
+souls, including 1219 Indians in the Papago ward, and to the southward
+toward Mexico. Mesa then was credited with 648 people of the faith, Lehi
+200, Alma 282 and Nephi 104.
+
+In 1905, President Hakes transferred his activities to the development of
+a new colony of his people at Bluewater, N.M., near Fort Wingate. His
+death was in Mesa, August 27, 1916.
+
+To the Maricopa Stake Presidency, November 26, 1905, succeeded Jno. T.
+Lesueur, transferred from St. Johns, where, from Mesa, he settled in
+1880. He is still a resident of Mesa. He resigned as president in 1912,
+the position taken, on March 10 of that year, by his son, Jas. W.
+Lesueur, who still is in office.
+
+December 20, 1898, first was occupied the Stake tabernacle, 75x45 feet in
+size, built of brick and costing $11,000. At its dedication were Apostle
+Brigham Young, Jr., and a number of other Church dignitaries.
+
+For more than a year plans have been in the making for erection at Mesa
+of a great temple of the Church, to cost about $500,000. It is to be the
+ninth of such structures. The others, in the order of their dedication,
+are (or were): at Kirtland, Ohio, of date 1836; at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+1846; at St. George, Logan, Manti and Salt Lake, Utah, and at Laie,
+Hawaiian Islands. Another is being built at Cardston, Alberta, Canada.
+The Kirtland edifice was abandoned. That at Nauvoo was wrecked by
+incendiaries in 1848. The great Temple at Salt Lake, its site located by
+Brigham Young four days after his arrival, in July, 1847, was forty years
+in building and its dedication was not till 1893.
+
+Merely in the way of explanation, it may be noted that a Mormon temple is
+not a house of public worship. It is, as was the Temple of Solomon, more
+of a sanctuary, a place wherein ecclesiastical ordinances may have
+administration. It has many lecture rooms, wherein to be seated the
+classes under instruction, and there is provision of places for the
+performance of the ordinances of baptism, marriage, confirmation, etc.
+
+Especially important are considered the baptism and blessings
+(endowments) bestowed vicariously on the living for the benefit of the
+dead. There also is added solemnity in a temple marriage, for it is for
+eternity and not merely for time. Due to this is the unusual activity of
+the Church members in genealogical research. It is believed that the
+Mormon Church is the only denomination that marries for eternity, this
+marriage also binding in the eternal family relation the children of the
+contracting individuals.
+
+The temple administration is separate from that of the Stake in which it
+may be situated and its doors, after dedication, are closed save to its
+officers and to those who come to receive its benefits. In the past years
+these ordinances have been received outside of Arizona, at large expense
+for travel from this State. Naturally, there has been a wish for location
+of a temple more readily to be reached by the devout.
+
+The temple idea in Arizona appears to date back to an assurance given
+about 1870 in St. George by Brigham Young. A prediction was made by Jesse
+N. Smith about 1882, to the effect that a temple, at some future day,
+would be reared on the site of Pima in Graham County. The first donation
+toward such an end was recorded January 24, 1887, in the name of Mrs.
+Helena Roseberry, a poor widow of Pima, who gave $5 toward the building
+of a temple in Arizona, handing the money to Apostle Moses Thatcher. This
+widow's mite ever since has been held by the Church in Salt Lake.
+Possibly it has drawn good interest, for through the Church Presidency
+has come a donation of $200,000 to assure the end the widow had wished
+for.
+
+Another "nest egg," the first contribution received directly for the Mesa
+edifice, came from another widow, Mrs. Amanda Hastings of Mesa, who, on
+behalf of herself and children, three years ago, gave the Stake
+presidency $15.
+
+The new temple, of which there is reproduction herewith of an artist's
+sketch, is to rise in the eastern part of Mesa upon a tract of forty
+acres, which is to be a veritable park, its edges occupied by homes. The
+architects are Don C. Young and Ramm Hansen of Salt Lake. The temple
+will rise 66 feet, showing as a vast monument upon a foundation base that
+will be 180x195 feet. This base will contain the offices and preparation
+rooms. While the structure will be sightly from all sides, on its north
+will be a great entrance. Between the dividing staircase will be a
+corridor entry to the baptismal room. The staircase, joined at the second
+story, will stretch 100 feet in a great flight, its landings successively
+taking the initiates to the higher planes of instruction. In this
+respect, the plan is said by Church authorities to be the best of any
+temple of the faith. The rooms will be ample in size for instruction
+of classes of over 100.
+
+The building of the Mesa temple was the primary subject at all meetings
+of congregations of the faith on September 12, 1920, and from voluntary
+donations on that day there was added to the temple fund $112,000.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twenty
+
+First Families of Arizona
+
+
+Pueblo Dwellers of Ancient Times
+
+In considering the development features of the settlement of central
+Arizona, the Author feels it might be interesting to note that the
+immigrants saw in the Salt River Valley many evidences of the truth of
+the Book of Mormon, covering the passage northward of the Nephites of
+old. There was found a broad valley that had lain untouched for a
+thousand years, unoccupied by Indian or Spaniard till Jack Swilling and
+his miners dug the first canal on the north side of the river a few years
+before the coming of the Saints to Jonesville. The valley had lain
+between the red-skinned agriculturists of the Gila and the Apache
+Ishmaelites of the hills. There had been no intrusion of Spanish or
+Mexican grants. The ground had been preserved for utilization of the
+highest sort by American intelligence.
+
+Yet this same intelligence found much to admire in the works of the
+people who had passed on. From the river had been taken out great canals
+of good gradient, and it was clear that they had been dug by a people of
+homely thrift and of skill in the tilling of the soil. There still were
+to be seen piles of earth that marked where at least seven great communal
+houses had formed nuclei for a numerous people. These were served by 123
+miles of canals.
+
+These people were not Aztec. According to accepted tradition, the Aztecs
+passed southward along the western coast, reaching Culiacan, in
+northwestern Mexico, about 700 A.D., and there named themselves the
+Mextli. The ancient people of the Salt River Valley probably had moved,
+or were moving, about that same time. They appear to have been of
+Toltecan stock and undoubtedly came from the southward, from a land where
+was known the building of houses and wherein had been established
+religious cults of notable completeness and assuredly of tenacious hold.
+Just why they left the Salt River Valley is as incomprehensible as why
+they entered it, and how long they stayed is purely a matter of
+conjecture. Probably occupation of the valley was not simultaneous.
+Probably the leaving was by families or clans, extending over a period of
+many years. Probably they left on the ending of a cycle of peace, on the
+coming to the Southwest of the first of the Apache, or of similar
+marauders, who preyed upon the peaceful dwellers of the plains. That they
+were people of peace cannot be doubted, people who in the end had to
+defend their towns, yet sought no aggression.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT CALALS COVERING 123 MILES, AND PUEBLOS OF SALT
+RIVER VALLEY. Surveyed by Herbert R. Patrick]
+
+
+Evidences of Well-Developed Culture
+
+Possibly a great epidemic, of the sort known to have swept Mexico before
+the coming of the Spaniard, gravely cut down the numbers of the ancient
+valley settlers. Near every communal castle is to be found a cemetery,
+filled with burial urns, their tops usually less than a foot below the
+surface. These urns (ollas) are filled with calcined human bones. By them
+are to be found the broken pottery, of which the spirits were to
+accompany the late lamented on their journey to the happy hunting
+grounds. These dishes once contained food, intended for the spirit
+travelers' nourishment. When there was a child, ofttimes now is found
+the clay image of a dog, for a dog always knows the way home. The dog is
+believed to have been the only domestic animal of the time.
+
+In some cases, in the greater houses, walled into crypts that might have
+served as family lounging places, have been found the skeletons of those
+who were of esoteric standing, considered able, by the force of will, to
+separate spirit from body. In other cases the cleansing and
+disintegrating effects of fire secured the necessary separation of the
+spirit from the body.
+
+With these mortuary evidences also are found domestic implements, stone
+clubs, arrow points and, particularly valuable, prayer sticks and
+religious implements that clearly show the archaeologist a connection
+with the pueblo-dwelling peoples who still live, under similar communal
+conditions, to the northward.
+
+
+Northward Trend of the Ancient People
+
+That these ancient peoples went north there can be no doubt. North of the
+valley, nearly fifty miles, on the Verde, is a great stone ruin and
+beyond it are cavate dwellings of remarkable sort. In Tonto Creek Valley,
+a dozen miles north of the Roosevelt dam, is an immense ruin built of
+gypsum blocks. To the eastward, Casa Grande, most famed of all Arizona
+prehistoric remains, still stands, iron-roofed by a careful government,
+probably of a later time of abandonment, but still a ruin when first seen
+by Father Eusebio Kino in 1694. All the way up the Gila, and with a
+notable southern stem through the Mimbres Valley, are found these same
+evidences of ancient occupation. Chichilticalli, "the Red House,"
+mentioned by Marco de Niza and by Coronado's historians in 1539-40, lay
+somewhere near where another group of Mormons again reclaimed the desert
+soil by irrigation in the upper Gila Valley. Ruins extended from Pueblo
+Viejo ("Old Town"), above Solomonville, down to San Carlos.
+
+Into the valleys of the Salt and of the Gila, from the north come many
+waterways. In none of these tributary valleys can there be failure to
+find evidences of the northward march of the Indians who lived in houses.
+In this intermediate region, the houses usually, for protection, were
+placed in the cliffs. Particularly notable are the cave dwellings of the
+upper Verde and in Tonto Basin, near Roosevelt, and in the Sierra Anchas
+and near Flagstaff.
+
+[Illustration: THE ARIZONA TEMPLE AT MESA]
+
+[Illustration: JONATHAN HEATON OF MOCCASIN AND HIS FIFTEEN SONS]
+
+[Illustration: 1--Ira Hatch, Indian Missionary
+2--Thales Haskell, Indian Missionary
+3--Wm. C. Prows, Battalion Member
+4--Nathan B. Robinson, killed by Indians]
+
+Again there was debouchment upon a river valley, that of the Little
+Colorado. Possibly some of the tribes worked eastward into the valley of
+the Rio Grande. Another section, and for this there is no less evidence
+than that of Frank Hamilton Cushing, formed at least a part of the
+forefathers of the Zuni. Swinging to the northwest, the Water House and
+other clans formed the southern branch of the three from which the Moqui,
+or Hopi, people are descended. This last is history. The early Mormons
+remarked upon the pueblo ruins that lay near their first Little Colorado
+towns, above St. Joseph. These ruins are known to the Hopi as "Homolobi,"
+and much is the information concerning them to be had from the historians
+of the present hilltop tribes.
+
+Reports of similarity have been so many, there can be no surprise that
+the earlier settlers from Utah wrote home joyously, telling that proofs
+had been found of the northern migration so definitely outlined in their
+ecclesiastical writings, according to the Book of Mormon.
+
+
+_The Great Reavis Land Grant Fraud_
+
+For about ten years from 1885 all the lands of the Salt and Gila valleys
+of Arizona lay under a serious cloud of title. There had been elimination
+of the Texas-Pacific landgrant, which unsuccessfully had been claimed by
+the Southern Pacific. Then came the Reavis grant, one of the most
+monumental of attempted swindles ever known. James Addison Reavis, a
+newspaper solicitor, claimed a tract 78 miles wide from a point at the
+junction of the Gila and Salt Rivers, eastward to beyond Silver City,
+N.M., on the basis of an alleged grant, of date December 20, 1748, by
+Fernando VI, King of Spain, to Senor Don Miguel de Peralta y Cordoba, who
+then was made Baron of the Colorados and granted 300 square leagues in
+the northern portion of the viceroyalty of New Spain. The grant was said
+to have been appropriated in 1757. Reavis had first claimed by virtue of
+a deed from one Willing, of date 1867, but there was switching later,
+Reavis thereafter claiming as agent for his wife, said to have been the
+last of the Peralta line, but in reality a half-breed Indian woman, found
+on an Indian reservation in northern California, and one who had no
+Mexican history whatever. Reavis renamed himself "Peralta-Reavis," and
+for a while had headquarters for his "barony" at Arizola, a short
+distance east of Casa Grande, where he maintained his family in state,
+with his children in royal purple velvet, with monogrammed coronets upon
+their Russian caps. He arrogated to himself ownership of all the water
+and the mines and sold quit-claim deeds to the land's owners. It is said
+that the Southern Pacific bought its right of way from him and that the
+Silver King and other mines similarly contributed to his exchequer. He
+claimed Phoenix, Mesa, Florence, Globe, Silver King, Safford and Silver
+City.
+
+He planned a storage basin on Salt River and another above Florence on
+the Gila, and advertised that he intended to reclaim 6,000,000 acres on
+the Casa Grande and Maricopa plains, "thereafter returning to the Gila
+any surplus water." Just how accurate his figures were may be judged by
+the fact that government engineers have found that the waters of the
+Gila, above Florence, are sufficient for the irrigation of not more than
+90,000 acres. He viewed things on a big scale, however. At Tonto Basin
+he was to build a dam 450 feet high and the water was to be taken from
+the river channel by means of a 44,000-foot tunnel.
+
+Whenever one of his prospective customers failed to contribute, he often
+deeded the land to a third party. Some of these deeds are to be seen on
+the records of Maricopa County. His case had been so well prepared that
+many were deceived, even the lawyers who served him as counsel, including
+Robert G. Ingersoll. Naturally something approximating a panic for a
+while was known by the farmers of the valleys affected.
+
+Meanwhile, very largely from moneys obtained as above noted, Reavis was
+spending royally at many points. At Madrid, Spain, he had a gorgeous
+establishment, whereat he even entertained the American Legation. At many
+points in Mexico, he scattered coin lavishly and accumulated cords of
+alleged original records and he even found paintings of his wife's
+alleged ancestors. The grant was taken into politics and was an issue in
+the congressional campaign of 1887.
+
+About 1898 there was establishment of the United States Court of Private
+Land Claims, especially for adjudication of many such claims in the
+Southwest. Reavis' elaborately prepared case tumbled almost from the day
+it was brought into court. Government agents found bribery, corruption
+and fraud all along his trail. He had interpolated pages in old record
+books and had even changed and rewritten royal documents, including one
+on which the grant was based. Some of his "ancient" documents were found
+to have been executed on very modern milled paper. On one of them
+appeared the water mark of a Wisconsin paper mill. Others had type that
+had been invented only a few years before. The claim was unanimously
+rejected by the land court and on the same day Reavis was arrested on
+five indictments for conspiracy. He was convicted in January, 1895, and
+sentenced to six years in the penitentiary. After serving his sentence,
+he made a brief confession, telling that he had been "playing a game
+which to win meant greater wealth than that of Gould or Vanderbilt."
+The district covered by his claim today has property valued at at least
+one billion dollars.
+
+When Mesa first was settled, every alternate section was called "railroad
+land." claimed by the Southern Pacific, under virtue of the old Tom
+Scott-Texas & Pacific land grant. Early in the eighties, this claim
+vanished, it being decided that the Southern Pacific had no right to the
+grant.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-one
+
+Near the Mexican Border
+
+
+Location on the San Pedro River
+
+Much historical value attaches to the settlement of the Saints upon the
+San Pedro River, even though prosperity there has not yet come in as
+large a degree as has been known elsewhere within the State. It is not
+improbable that within the next few years an advance in material riches
+will be known in large degree, through water storage, saving both water
+and the cutting away of lands through flood, and that permanent diversion
+works will save the heart-breaking tasks of frequent rebuilding of the
+temporary dams heretofore washed out in almost every freshet.
+
+Elsewhere has been told the story of the Daniel W. Jones party that
+settled at Lehi and of the dissension that followed objections on the
+part of the majority to the rulings of the stout old elder, whose mind
+especially dwelt upon the welfare of red-skinned brethren.
+
+There had been general authorization to the Jones-Merrill expedition to
+go as far southward as it wished. Under this, though not till there had
+been consultation with the Church Presidency, the greater number of the
+Lehi settlers left Salt River early in August, 1877. There was
+expectation that they were to settle on the headwaters of the Gila or on
+the San Pedro. There must have been a deal of faith within the company,
+for the departure from camp was with provisions only enough to last two
+days and there was appreciation that much wild country would need to be
+passed. But there was loan of the wages of A.O. Williams, a member of
+the party who had been employed by C.T. Hayden at Tempe, and with this
+money added provisions were secured.
+
+Necessarily, the journey was indirect. At Tucson employment was offered
+for men and teams by Thomas Gardner, who owned a sawmill in the Santa
+Rita Mountains. Much of the money thus earned was saved, for the party
+lived under the rules of the United Order, and very economically. So, in
+the fall, with the large joint capital of $400 in cash, added to teams
+and wagons and to industry and health, there was fresh start, from the
+Santa Ritas, for the San Pedro, 45 miles distant. The river was reached
+November 29, 1877.
+
+These first settlers comprised Philemon C., Dudley T., Thomas, Seth and
+Orrin D. Merrill, George E. Steele, Joseph McRae and A.O. Williams. All
+but Williams and O.D. Merrill had families.
+
+Ground was broken at a point on the west side of the river, on land that
+had been visited and located October 14, by P.C. Merrill on an exploring
+trip. The first camp was about a half mile south of the present St. David
+and soon was given permanency by the erection of a small stone fort of
+eight rooms. That winter, for the common interest, was planting of 75
+acres of wheat and barley, irrigated from springs and realizing very
+well.
+
+
+Malaria Overcomes a Community
+
+As was usual in early settlement of Arizona valleys, malarial fever
+appeared very soon. At one time, in the fall of 1878, nearly all the
+settlers were prostrated with the malady, probably carried by mosquitoes
+from stagnant water. That year also it was soberly told that fever and
+ague even spread to the domestic animals. At times, the sick had to wait
+on the sick and there was none to greet Apostle Erastus Snow when he made
+visitation October 6, 1878. His first address was to an assembly of 38
+individuals, of whom many had been carried to the meeting on their beds.
+It is chronicled by Elder McRae that, "notwithstanding these conditions,
+the Apostle blessed the place, prophesying that the day would come when
+the San Pedro Valley would be settled from one end to the other with
+Saints and that we had experienced the worst of our sickness. When he
+left, all felt better in body and in spirit." It was a decidedly hot
+season. "Vegetation grew so rank that a horseman mounted on a tall horse
+could hardly be seen at a distance of a quarter of a mile. Hay could be
+cut a stone's throw from our door."
+
+The first death was on October 2, 1878, of the same A.O. Williams whose
+money had brought the people to the new land.
+
+Possibly the settlement needed the mental and spiritual encouragement of
+Apostle Snow, for more than a year had passed of hardships and of labor,
+and, including the Lehi experience, there had been no recompense, unless
+it might have been in the way of mental and moral discipline.
+
+The early malaria of the Arizona valleys nearly all has disappeared, with
+the draining of swampy places, the eradication of beaver dams and
+mosquitoes and the knowledge of better living conditions. Elsewhere has
+been told of the abandonment of Obed and other early Little Colorado
+settlements, because of chills and fever. Something of the same sort was
+known on the upper Gila, from 1882 to 1890, around Pima, Curtis and
+Bryce. In this same upper Gila Valley, Fort Goodwin had to be abandoned
+on account of malarial conditions. The same is true of old Fort Grant,
+across the divide, on the lower San Pedro. The upper Verde, the Santa
+Cruz and nearly all similar valleys knew malaria at the time of
+settlement.
+
+According to Merrill, on March 26, 1879, the sick and sorry settlers went
+into the Huachuca Mountains to summer, but, "the wind blew so much that
+we moved back to the river, near where Hereford now is, rented some land
+and put in some crops." This location is just about where the members of
+the Mormon Battalion, in 1846, had their memorable fight with the wild
+bulls. A Merrill report, rendered March 16, 1881, was far from hopeful
+and asked that the writer be relieved of his responsibilities.
+
+
+On the Route of the Mormon Battalion
+
+This office has been unable to find any reference connecting Merrill's
+later experiences in the San Pedro Valley with the time when he was an
+officer of the Mormon Battalion, though it can be imagined that his later
+associates had the benefit of many reminiscences of that period of the
+march just prior to the taking of Tucson.
+
+The San Pedro Valley is a historic locality. Down it passed Friar Marco
+de Niza, in 1539, and the Coronado expedition of the following year. The
+waters of the stream were a joyous sight to the Mormon Battalion, when it
+passed that way during the Mexican War. The country then had been
+occupied to some extent by Spaniards or Mexicans, who had established
+large ranches, with many cattle, from which they had been driven by the
+Apaches, years before the Battalion came. The country once had been the
+ranging ground of the friendly Sobaipuri Indians, but they too had been
+driven away by the hillmen and had established a village on the Santa
+Cruz, near their kinsmen, the Papago, almost on the site where Tucson was
+founded as a Spanish presidio in 1776.
+
+The river, when the Merrill party came, was found usually in a deep
+gully, in places twenty feet below the surface of the silty ground.
+Naturally, difficulty has attended the attempts to dam the stream.
+
+
+Chronicles of a Quiet Neighborhood
+
+St. David was named by Alexander F. Macdonald in honor of David W.
+Patten, a martyr of the Church, who died at the hands of the same mob
+that killed Joseph Smith. Its first mail was received at Tres Alamos,
+sixteen miles down the river. A postoffice was established in 1882,
+Joseph McRae in charge. When the Southern Pacific came through, Benson
+was established, nine miles to the northward. Tombstone lies sixteen
+miles to the southeast.
+
+In May, 1880, the present St. David townsite was laid out. John Smith
+Merrill built the first house. The following year an adobe schoolhouse
+was built, this used for public gatherings until shaken down by an
+earthquake, May 3, 1887, happily while the children were at recess. Much
+damage was done in the town.
+
+The settlement had little or no trouble with Indians, though for nine
+years Apache bands scouted and murdered in the nearby mountains and
+committed depredations within the San Pedro Valley, both to the northward
+and southward.
+
+Early in 1879 John Campbell, a new member, from Texas, built a sawmill,
+in the Huachuca Mountains, that furnished a diversity of industry, from
+it much lumber being shipped to Tombstone.
+
+Macdonald was a southern extension of the St. David community on the San
+Pedro, established in 1882 by Henry J. Horne, Jonathan Hoopes and others,
+and named in honor of Alexander F. Macdonald, then president of the
+Maricopa Stake. It was of slow growth, owing to claims upon the lands as
+constituting a part of the San Juan de las Boquillas y Nogales grant,
+later rejected. In 1913, nine miles west of St. David, was established
+the community of Miramonte.
+
+
+Looking Toward Homes in Mexico
+
+While the Saints were establishing themselves upon the San Pedro and
+Gila, the Church authorities by no means had lost sight of the primary
+object of the southern migration. January 4, 1883, Apostle Moses
+Thatcher, with Elders D. P. Kimball, Teeples, Fuller, Curtis, Trejo and
+Martineau, left St. David for an exploring trip into Mexico.
+
+September 13, 1884, another party left St. David to explore the country
+lying south of the line, along the Babispe River, returning October 7, by
+way of the San Bernardino ranch, though without finding any locations
+considered favorable.
+
+In November, 1884, Apostles Brigham Young, Jr., and Heber J. Grant, with
+a company from St. Joseph Stake, with thirty wagons, went into Sonora,
+where they were given a hearty welcome by the Yaqui Indians, who
+expressed hope of a settlement among them.
+
+St. David was the scene of one of the most notable councils of the
+Church, held in January, 1885, and presided over by none other than
+President John Taylor, who left Salt Lake City, January 3, and whose
+party at St. David included also Apostles Joseph F. Smith, Erastus Snow,
+Brigham Young, Jr., Moses Thatcher and Francis M. Lyman, with other
+dignitaries of the Church. At St. David were met Jesse N. Smith,
+Christopher Layton, Alex. F. Macdonald and Lot Smith, presidents of the
+four Stakes of Arizona. The discussion at this conference appeared to
+have been mainly upon the Church prosecution, then in full sway, a matter
+not included within the purview of this work. There was determination to
+extend the Church settlements farther to the southward. According to
+Orson F. Whitney:
+
+"In order to provide a place of refuge for such as were being hunted and
+hounded, President Taylor sent parties into Mexico to arrange for the
+purchase of land in that country, upon which the fugitive Saints might
+settle. One of the first sites selected for this purpose was just across
+the line in the State of Sonora. Elder Christopher Layton made choice of
+this locality. Other lands were secured in the State of Chihuahua.
+President Taylor and his party called upon Governor Torres at Hermosillo,
+the capital of Sonora, and were received by that official with marked
+courtesy."
+
+Historian Whitney states that the Taylor party then went westward by way
+of the Salt River Valley settlements to the Pacific Coast. And this
+office has a record to the effect that, in January, President Taylor
+visited also the settlements of the Little Colorado section and counseled
+concerning the disposition of several of the early towns of that
+locality.
+
+Of Arizona interest is the fact that for two and a half years thereafter,
+the President of the Mormon Church was in exile, till the date of his
+death, July 25, 1887, in Kaysville, Utah. Much of the intervening time
+was spent in Arizona and a part of it in Mexico, in the settlements that
+had been established as places of refuge. His declining months, however,
+were spent in Utah, even entire communities guarding well the secret of
+the presence of their spiritual head.
+
+
+Arizona's First Artesian Well
+
+Possibly the first artesian well known in Arizona was developed in the
+St. David settlement. In 1885 a bounty of $1500 was offered for the
+development of artesian water. The reward was claimed by the McRae
+brothers, who developed a flow of about thirty gallons a minute, but who
+failed to receive any reward. Five years ago, J.S. Merrill of St. David
+reported that within the San Pedro Valley were about 200 flowing wells,
+furnishing from five to 150 gallons a minute. The deepest valley well was
+about 600 feet. At that time about 2000 acres were irrigated by the St.
+David canal and by the wells, sustaining a population of about 600 souls.
+
+
+Development of a Market at Tombstone
+
+It happened on the San Pedro, just as in many other places, that the
+Mormons were just a little ahead of some great development. September 3,
+1877, at Tucson, Ed. Schieffelin recorded the first of his mining claims
+in Tombstone District, which then lay in Pima County.
+
+Schieffelin's first discovery was several miles from the later site of
+Tombstone and about four miles from the San Pedro. Later, with Dick Gird
+and Al Schieffelin, the original discoverer located the lower group of
+mines in the camp of Tombstone, then established. A number of other
+settlements sprang up, including the nearby Richmond, Watervale and the
+mill towns of Charleston and Contention City, both on the San Pedro,
+where water could be secured.
+
+Several miles west of Tombstone, just where Ed Schieffelin camped at the
+time of the discovery of his Tombstone claim, is a large monument of
+cemented rock, under which lie his remains, brought back from the
+Northwest for interment in the land he loved. His death was on May 12,
+1897.
+
+The Tombstone Gold & Silver Milling & Mining Company, of which former
+Gov. A.P.K. Safford was president, in 1880 owned the original group of
+Schieffelin claims, of which the Tough Nut was the main property. A stamp
+mill was built on the San Pedro and a contract entered into with the
+Mormons to build a dam and ditch, from which it was hoped to secure
+motive power. Concerning this job, estimated to cost $6000, Merrill later
+wrote that the contractors found themselves fined $300 for six days'
+overtime on completion of the job. Joseph McRae's record tells that, in
+1879, some of the brethren went up the river, twenty miles above St.
+David, and put in a rip-rap dam and a mile and a half of ditch at
+Charleston for the Boston Mining Company. This may have been the Boston &
+Arizona Smelting & Reduction Company, a Massachusetts corporation which
+had a twenty-stamp mill and a roasting furnace on the San Pedro, between
+Charleston and Contention, ten miles from Tombstone. This job returned
+$6000 in cash.
+
+The mines brought a relative degree of prosperity to the San Pedro
+settlement, furnishing a ready and profitable market for agricultural
+products, but especially calling upon all transportation facilities that
+could be afforded. Teams were busy hauling from the terminus of the
+railroad at Tucson and at Benson, until, in October, 1882, there was
+completion of the New Mexico and Arizona railroad, then a Santa Fe
+corporation, from Benson to Nogales, much of the way through the San
+Pedro Valley, past St. David and the milling towns. The mines paid $30 a
+cord for fuel wood and even $40 a ton for hay.
+
+Lean days descended upon the community, however, in the early summer of
+1886, when the great pumps of the Grand Central mine were stopped by
+fire. The following year Tombstone practically was abandoned and the
+market it had afforded was lost. Not till 1901 did the camp revive. It
+closed again in June, 1903, by the drowning of the pumps. Latterly the
+old mines, consolidated, have been worked to some extent by the
+Phelps-Dodge Corporation, but again have been closed, early in April,
+1921.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-two
+
+On the Upper Gila
+
+
+Ancient Dwellers and Military Travelers
+
+Possibly as representative a region as is known in the settlement area of
+the Mormon people lies for about 25 miles along the Gila River in eastern
+Arizona, in Graham County, and within St. Joseph Stake. Over a dozen
+communities are contained within this section and all are distinctly
+Mormon in settlement and local operation, save Solomonville, at the upper
+end, and Safford, the county seat and principal town. Most of the land is
+owned by the Saints, who control, as well, a dozen small canals. Within
+the Stake have been included Mormon settlements of the San Pedro Valley
+and those upon the upper Gila, in Greenlee County, extending over into
+New Mexico and El Paso.
+
+The settlement of the Graham County section of the Gila Valley did not
+start with the Mormons. Far from it. In the upper end of the cultivated
+region is one of the most notable groups of ruins in the Southwest. This
+group, since the coming of the Spaniard, appears to have borne
+the name of Pueblo Viejo (Sp., "Old Town"). Somewhere farther down the
+stream is assumed to have been "Chichilticalli," the "red house"
+mentioned in the chronicles of Marco de Niza and the Coronado expedition.
+
+The valley was traversed, from east to west, by Gen. S.W. Kearny, on his
+way, with a dragoon escort, in 1846, to take California from the
+Mexicans, this command, from the Pima villages westward, forming the
+advance guard for the Mormon Battalion. Much interesting data of the Gila
+Valley trip was written by Lieutenant Emory, who later was chief of the
+Boundary Survey. It is notable that in 1846 Mount Graham already was
+known by that name.
+
+
+Early Days Around Safford
+
+A few Mexicans were in the valley as early as 1871, farming in the
+vicinity of Pueblo Viejo, immediately below which later arose the town of
+Solomonville. In 1872 was the first Anglo-Saxon settlement, a group of
+farmers coming from Gila Bend, upon the Gila River, where they had
+attempted farming and had failed because the wandering river had washed
+away their dams and headgates. These farmers, financed in Tucson for the
+building of the Montezuma canal, settled in the vicinity of Safford,
+where about that time, was established a townsite, named in honor of Gov.
+A.P.K. Safford who, from Tucson, then was making a tour of that part of
+Arizona Territory.
+
+One of the very earliest valley residents was D.W. Wickersham, who wrote
+the Author lately, covering his early experiences. To later serve as the
+first teacher, he arrived in Safford the summer of 1876, there finding
+Joshua E. Bailey and Hiram Kennedy, who had come from Gila Bend. Bailey
+he considers the founder of Safford and believes it was he who named the
+settlement. Both Bailey and Kennedy came with California troops during
+the Civil War. The former died in Michigan and Kennedy was murdered in
+Safford in 1877. Others of the early settlers were Wm. A. Gillespie, John
+Glasby, John Conley, A.F. Perigo, Edw. E. Tuttle and E.T. Ijams.
+
+In 1876 appeared Isador E. Solomon, who for many years occupied a leading
+position. He came primarily to burn charcoal for the rude adobe furnaces
+that had been erected by the Lesynzskys to smelt the free ores of the
+famous Longfellow mine in Chase Creek Canyon, a few miles above Clifton.
+For charcoal Solomon found abundant material in an almost unbroken
+mesquite forest that stretched for many miles along the river. Solomon
+purchased a road house and small store that had been established near
+Pueblo Viejo by one Munson, and the place soon became a trading post for
+a large extent of country, its importance increasing with the development
+of the great mining region around Globe. I.E. Solomon still is living,
+an honored resident of Tucson, his children prominent in the business
+affairs of the State. Solomonville was so named, in 1878, by none other
+than Bill Kirkland, who raised the American flag in Tucson in 1856 and
+who, for a while, carried mail from Fort Thomas to Clifton.
+
+[Illustration: SOUTHEASTERN ARIZONA. The Salt, San Pedro and Gila Valleys
+and Routes of travel]
+
+Apostle Erastus Snow appears to have been the first of the Mormon faith
+to cross this Gila Valley region. His party arrived on the San Pedro
+River, October 6, 1878. The most easterly point reached in the Gila
+Valley was at old Camp Goodwin, not far from the present railroad station
+of Fort Thomas and at the extreme western or lower end of the present
+farmed area. It would require a separate volume to follow Apostle Erastus
+Snow on his journeyings through the Southwest, where he appears to have
+served as a veritable inspector-general for his Church.
+
+On the 1878 trip, L. John Nuttall of Snow's company, writes of passing
+into the Gila Valley through a rocky canyon, "a terrible place, almost
+impassable, the dread of all who travel this way." The same road is very
+little better to this day.
+
+At one point was passed a ridge known as Postoffice Hill, where was found
+the grave of a white man, killed several years before by Apaches. Every
+time an Apache passed, he put a rock on the grave mound, at that time
+about twenty feet square at the base and four feet high. The travelers
+added another rock, on the principle of, "When in Rome, do as the Romans
+do."
+
+Mormon Location at Smithville
+
+The Mormon settlement of the Gila Valley was one of the few made without
+particular and direct instruction from the general Church authorities. It
+was caused, primarily, by trouble over the land tenure at Forest Dale, in
+the mountains to the northward, where settlers, at first permitted, even
+encouraged by the reservation authorities, finally were advised that they
+were on Indian land and would have to move. The first question before the
+colonists immediately became where they should find a new abiding place.
+All of them had come from the northward, seeking a better location than
+afforded along the Little Colorado River or in the mountain settlements.
+So there was determination to see what could be found in the way of
+farming land on the Gila, to the southward.
+
+[Illustration: THE TEEPLES HOME, FIRST HOUSE IN PIMA]
+
+[Illustration: THE FIRST SCHOOL HOUSE AT SAFFORD]
+
+[Illustration: GILA NORMAL COLLEGE AT THATCHER]
+In February, 1879, an expedition started over the hills to view the
+valley of the Gila. It included W.R. Teeples, John Wm. Tanner, Ben Pierce
+and Hyrum Weech. The last-named told that the party looked over the
+country and finally selected a location for a town. He wrote, "We
+traveled from one end of the valley to the other on both sides of the
+river, looking for the best place to take out a ditch, because we had
+very little means and could not go to large expense. This (near the
+location of Smithville, later known as Pima) seemed to be about the
+easiest place on the river to take out water, so we decided on making
+the location here."
+
+The Smithville ditch was on the basis of prior location by Gillespie and
+was extended to cover the Mormon land in 1880. Somewhat higher was the
+Central ditch, which had been built several years before as far down as
+the later site of Thatcher and which was extended above Pima in 1882.
+
+Somewhat of a Samaritan was found on the ground in one Markham, from
+Oregon, from whom were hired a team and wagon and who refused to take any
+pay. With a pocket compass, Smithville was laid out. The settlement could
+not be scattered, because Indians and outlaws threatened. Foundations
+were laid on sixteen corners, each under the name of one of the families
+expected to come from the north.
+
+The pioneer party then made close investigation of the valley, traveling
+up the Gila into New Mexico, and viewed the country around Clifton and
+along the Blue and Black Rivers. The whole trip took about a month.
+
+The report was, "that the country looked good for stock raising and
+farming." On March 16, at Moses Cluff's camp, the proposed migration was
+approved by Stake President Jesse N. Smith, who appointed Jos. K. Rogers
+to lead it. In the first company were Rogers, Teeples, Weech, Henry D.
+Dall, William Thompson and the families of all except Weech and Dall. To
+these were added John and Thomas Sessions and Earlton Haws, making 28 in
+all. Arrival was on April 8, 1879. The Cluffs (three families) came very
+soon after the first party. In a later migration came Samuel Curtis,
+Heber Reed, Edgar Sessions and William Asay.
+
+E.G. Curtis, one of the earliest of the settlers, told that in passing
+Fort Thomas in March, "the country is found entirely covered with
+poppies, one of the most beautiful sights I ever expect to see. The grass
+was high and when the wind would blow it down in great waves, you could
+see great bunches of antelope."
+
+
+A Second Party Locates at Graham
+
+In the Church history of Graham Ward is found additional data concerning
+the early Gila Valley settlement. It is told that, "the settlers of
+Brigham City on the Little Colorado, getting discouraged because of
+frequent failures of crops and poor prospects, sent explorers out to look
+for new locations. Two went to the San Juan country in Utah, two to the
+Salt River Valley and three, George Lake, Andrew Anderson and George
+Skinner, to the Gila River." The journey was via Fort Apache, the arrival
+at Smithville being in the latter part of November, 1880. At the Graham
+settlement there was purchase of a water ditch and a quit-claim deed to
+four quarter-sections of land that had been farmed by non-Mormons. The
+record recites, "it was merely a rustlers' ranch, possessed by
+horsethieves and speculators who had a small house on it, for which the
+brethren paid about $1800, in cows valued at $35 per head."
+
+Lake remained in the valley. Anderson and Skinner returned in December to
+Brigham City, where the authorities of the United Order accepted the
+purchase. Anderson and Skinner started again for the Gila, accompanied by
+their families, by Moses M. Curtis and William Hawkins and their families
+and a number of unmarried men, taking with them seed grain, farming
+implements, cows, sheep and other animals. Transportation was by ox
+teams. Christmas Day was spent at St. Joseph on the Little Colorado and
+New Year at Showlow, arrival on the Gila being in January. Lake, in the
+meantime, had been joined by Jorgen Jorgensen and Jerome J. Adams, the
+two who had been sent to the Salt River Valley.
+
+The new arrivals at once set at work, clearing their lands and putting in
+grain, raising good crops. The manual labor, of the hardest sort, was
+performed under the conditions of the United Order and on a diet
+principally of bread and beans. The sheep band was turned over to the
+Church, as profits of the Order, and the wheat and other products were
+divided according to the number of families and the number of persons. A
+stockade fort was built, but the homes for months consisted of sheds or
+tents and even of the wagons. In 1884, on the newly-surveyed townsite of
+Graham, was built a meeting house, called the "factory house," with
+mesquite posts and dirt roof and with walls only of heavy unbleached
+muslin, which appears to have been called "factory."
+
+One of the early settlements of the Gila Valley is Matthews (successively
+Matthewsville, Fairview and Glenbar), founded in December, 1880, by
+Joseph Matthews and family, from Round Valley, and Wm. R. Waddill. In
+1881 they built a stockade and though no local Indian depredations were
+known, in that year the Matthews settlers moved to Pima for better
+protection. A townsite was selected by the Stake President September 17,
+1886, but was not occupied. A resident of note was the first district
+school teacher, John F. Nash, who came with his father to Arizona in
+1874, first settling in Williamson Valley near Prescott. He arrived in
+the valley in 1881, the progress of the family toward Texas stopped on
+the Gila by the stealing of a band of Nash horses by "rustlers."
+
+
+Vicissitudes of Pioneering
+
+Eden, first known as Curtis, lies on the northern side of the Gila, nine
+miles northwest of Pima. It dates from early in 1881, when there was
+arrival from Brigham City, Arizona, of a party of United Order settlers,
+headed by Moses M. Curtis. Though other immigrants occupied holdings
+nearby, M.M. Curtis and Wm. R. Hawkins were the only residents of the
+present Eden townsite in 1881. The men first turned their attention
+toward the construction of a ditch from the river, this completed the
+following year. For a while the young community was on very short
+rations. At times there could be only one meal a day, that a meager one
+of beans, served at noon to the workers, who scarcely could summon
+strength for more than a half day's labor.
+
+Some of the early settlers built boweries of brush under which they
+rolled their covered wagons, to secure better protection from the
+pitiless Arizona summer sun, and with no other home for weeks. There were
+Indian "scares," as elsewhere told, and life was far from comfortable,
+with occasional crossing of the Gila at flood to secure protection at the
+more populous Pima. In January, 1882, was a moving back to five log
+houses that had been built on the Curtis townsite, but even after that
+was flight to Pima when word came of an Indian raid. In the fall of 1882
+eight families were living in a little stockade fort that enclosed a half
+acre of ground, near the river. The present townsite was located May 10,
+1883.
+
+
+Gila Communities of the Faith
+
+Thatcher, present Stake headquarters, derives its name from Apostle Moses
+Thatcher, who was a Christmas visitor in 1882, in company with Apostle
+Erastus Snow. The first settler was John M. Moody, who came with his
+family from Utah, arriving when Nature had warm welcome indeed, on July
+4, 1881. In 1882 he was joined by the Cluff and Zufelt families and by
+James Pace of the Mormon Battalion, who built a stockade, and a little
+later by Hyrum Brinkerhoff and wife Margaret, "Aunt Maggie," who bought
+and occupied the Moody place. They were prominent among the Southern Utah
+and Muddy pioneers.
+
+The Thatcher townsite was selected by President Layton May 13, 1883, a
+school district being established the following month. Among the arrivals
+of the following year was Samuel Claridge, one of the pioneers of the
+Muddy section. October 19, 1885, the presidency located a new townsite
+about one-half mile to the southward and on higher land. Much of the old
+Moody ranch since the Brinkerhoff purchase has disappeared, from the
+encroachments of the Gila River.
+
+Bryce, across the river from Pima, dates from January, 1883, when
+Ebenezer Bryce, Sr., and sons commenced construction of a ditch,
+completed the next year. The first house was that of Ebenezer P. Bryce,
+occupied in December, 1884.
+
+Central, between Thatcher and Pima, took its name from the Central canal,
+which irrigates part of the settlement. Its first settlers were Orson and
+Joseph Cluff of Forest Dale, from which they came southward in the spring
+of 1882.
+
+The Hubbard settlement is an outgrowth of the Graham and Bryce wards and
+is of comparatively late occupation. It is named after Elisha F. Hubbard,
+Sr., the first ward bishop.
+
+The Layton settlement, named for the first stake president, is one of the
+most prosperous, and is the third in order of population of the St.
+Joseph Stake wards. The first settler was Hyrum H. Tippets, who came
+January 13, 1883, direct from Brigham City, Utah.
+
+The Franklin settlement, above Duncan on the Gila, is about seven miles
+in length, most of it in Arizona, though lapping over into New Mexico.
+Its first Mormon settler was Thomas J. Nations, in 1895. He joined, with
+others of the brethren, in taking out a canal. Thomas A. McGrath is
+understood to have been the first settler of the locality. The name was
+given in 1898, at the time of the visit of Apostles John Henry Smith and
+John W. Taylor, and is in honor of Franklin D. Richards, an apostle of
+the Church, who in no wise had been associated with Arizona affairs. In
+the same vicinity, wholly in New Mexico, is the settlement of Virden,
+mainly populated by refugees from Mexico. In these upper Gila communities
+the Mormons have created a veritable garden, where careless cultivation
+had been known.
+
+Graham County was created by the Arizona Legislature in the spring of
+1881, the settlement south of the Gila theretofore having been in Pima
+County. The first county seat was Safford, but county government was
+transferred to Solomonville by an act of the Legislature in 1883. In
+1915, after the setting off of Greenlee County, the court-house went back
+to Safford.
+
+
+Considering the Lamanites
+
+In the entertaining flood of reminiscence that comes from almost any of
+the devout pioneers, there often is found expression of abiding belief of
+personal protection extended by Omnipotence. Possibly, save in the
+development of character by trials and by tribulation, the average
+pioneer of the faith, from a present viewpoint, would appear to have been
+little favored, yet thankful devotion ever was present.
+
+One story that indicated celestial intervention in time of danger, has
+been told by Orson Cluff. He and several brothers and their families were
+on the road south from Forest Dale to the Gila, and had camped at a point
+twenty miles south of Fort Apache. In the morning there was the usual
+prayer, from which the company arose, refreshed in spirit, for another
+hard day's journey. A short time later, an Indian told how he was a
+member of a band of redskins that lay in ambush about the Mormon camp
+that very morning. The work of massacre was about to begin when the
+intended victims were seen to drop upon their knees and to lift their
+hands aloft in supplication. The startled Indians were overcome by some
+mysterious power and stole away. Possibly they feared that potent
+"medicine" was being made against them, but the Cluffs are sure that
+the Holy Spirit had descended to save them for further earthly
+experience.
+
+The Gila Valley saw much of Indian rapine in its earlier days. The
+section considered in this chapter lies just east of the San Carlos
+Apache reservation and is flanked on the northward by the White Mountain
+reservation. When the California Column, under General Carleton, was
+established in Arizona in 1863, after beating the Confederates back
+beyond the Rio Grande, it was found necessary to establish military
+stations in that locality. Camp Goodwin, named after the first Governor
+of the Territory, was at the lower end of the valley. A number of years
+after its abandonment, there was established, five miles to the eastward,
+Camp Thomas, maintained until after the final subjugation of the hostile
+Indians. Thomas was a veritable guard post for the Mormon settlers. To
+the southwest was Camp Grant, in the northern extension of the Sulphur
+Springs Valley, this post a successor to old Camp Grant, which was at the
+mouth of Aravaipa Creek, at the junction of that stream with the San
+Pedro River. To the northward was Fort Apache and to the southward Fort
+Bowie.
+
+
+The Hostile Chiricahuas
+
+The native Pinaleno Indians of the San Carlos region, while inclined
+toward spasmodic outbreaks, were not as hostile as their western
+neighbors, the Mohave and Yuma Apaches. A very dangerous element was
+added when, in 1876, under direction of the army, Agent John P. Clum
+moved to San Carlos 325 Indians of the Chiricahua-Apache strain from a
+reservation in southeastern Arizona. Within a few years, 4500 Indians
+were concentrated at San Carlos. The Chiricahuas, unsettled and forever
+yearning to get back to the scene of their marauding along the emigrant
+road to the southward and in Mexico, constantly were slipping away from
+the reservation by individuals and by bands, and their highway usually
+was up the river. In the early eighties the settlers along the Gila lived
+forever in terror of the savage foe. The military was efficient.
+Hardriding troopers would dash forth from one or all of the guardian
+posts whenever danger threatened, and to these same troops undoubtedly is
+due the fact that general massacres were not known in and around the Gila
+Valley towns.
+
+Often the Author finds in the manuscripts of personal experiences that
+have been accumulated by the score in his office, a note indicating the
+conditions under which the land was settled. There have been attempts in
+other parts of this work to make clear the fact that the Mormons always
+tried to be friendly with the Indians and suffered without protest
+treatment from the aborigines that would have led to the shedding of
+blood by others. One interesting little item of this sort is in a record
+contributed by Mrs. W.R. Teeples. She found the Indians on the Gila Hirer
+in 1879 were friendly, possibly too much so. She wrote, "When I was
+cooking pancakes over the fire in our camp, the Indians would sit around
+watching, and they would grab the cakes out of the pan before they were
+done, so I had to cover the pancakes up to keep them for ourselves."
+
+Mrs. J.N. Stratton wrote of the same period:
+
+"Besides the fear of getting out of food was the greater fear of the
+Indians. They were on the San Carlos reservation and were supposed to be
+peaceful, but bands often went out on the warpath and spread terror
+throughout the country, so the people never knew what to expect from
+them. The mesquite and sage brush were so thick where Safford's streets
+and houses are now, that one could only see a little distance, and it was
+no uncommon occurrence for an Indian to slip out from behind the brush
+and come walking in at the cabin door, or put his face up against the
+window and peer in, if the door happened to be closed. One settler who
+had two doors had her husband nail one up so that when the Indians did
+come to call on them, she could stand in the other door and keep them
+from coming in. The mothers never let their children get out of their
+sight, for fear they would be stolen."
+
+I.E. Solomon and his family had many experiences with the Indians, and in
+several cases narrowly escaped death. A number of Solomon's employees
+were killed in the open country toward Clifton.
+
+An interesting chronicle is from Mrs. Elizabeth Hanks Curtis, who came
+with her family in April, 1881. Incidentally, she is a descendant of the
+Hanks family, tracing relationship to Abraham Lincoln. A mile above Eden
+they built a log fort. In September this had to be abandoned, word
+brought by a friendly Indian of the coming of a large band of Indians and
+of imminent danger. Will Ransom from Pima provided a raft to cross the
+river upon and the settlers concentrated at Pima. The settlers were
+driven into Pima again in April of the following year, after huddling for
+days in Moses Curtis' cabin. Protection came from Fort Thomas.
+
+
+Murders by Indian Raiders
+
+July 19, 1882, Jacob S. Ferrin of Pima was killed under circumstances of
+treachery. A freighting camp, of which he was a member, was entered by a
+number of Apaches, led by "Dutchy," escaped from custody at San Carlos.
+Pretending amity, they seized the teamsters' guns and fired upon their
+hosts. Ferrin was shot down, one man was wounded and the others escaped.
+
+On the morning of December 1, 1885, Lorenzo and Seth Wright were killed
+by Indians who had been combing the valley for horses. The Wrights had
+started, with members of a posse, from Layton, and were joined at
+Solomonville by Sheriff Stevens and two other men, after there had
+been recovered a number of the stolen horses, for the pursuers rode
+harder and faster than the fleeing thieves. There had been assumption
+that the thieves were Mexicans and so there was an element of
+recklessness in the pursuit that would have been missing had the truth
+been known, that they were Apaches. The four leading men of the posse
+were ambushed by the redskins, who had halted by the roadside. Seth
+Wright was shot from his horse. His brother immediately dismounted and
+opened fire upon the Indians. Lorenzo's right arm was broken by a bullet,
+and then, while he was running, he was shot in the back.
+
+This same band had killed a man and a boy at Black Rock and a herdsman at
+Bear Springs Flat.
+
+May 23, 1886, Frank Thurston of Pima, while starting a lime kiln, six
+miles from the town, was surprised by eight Apaches and killed. This band
+passed by the Curtis settlement, driving off a number of horses.
+
+Concerning the Indian situation, James H. Martineau, on June 1, 1886,
+wrote that the Apaches then were riding in many small bands, but were
+kept on the move constantly by the vigorous measures of General Miles,
+and he assumes that the Apache question would have been settled had his
+predecessor, General Crook, been less dilatory. The writer expressed his
+conclusion that in military skill, strategy and ability the Indians far
+excelled their opponents, and details that fifty or sixty Apaches the
+year before had killed more than 75 white settlers, all the while pursued
+by seventeen companies of United States troops, without losing a single
+Indian.
+
+
+Outlawry Along the Gila
+
+The Mormons of the Gila Valley maintained most amicable relations with
+their neighbors, but occasionally had to participate in some of the
+ordinary frontier episodes. James R. Welker, an arrival in Safford in
+1883, tells that, "The cowboys had things about their own way for a few
+years. They would ride right into a town, go straight to the saloon and
+commence shooting the place up. They were expert with the pistol too. I
+have seen some very wonderful shots among those cowboys. They did not do
+much killing around here, but they were pretty wild and did about as they
+pleased." W.T. Barney wrote, "The rustlers gave us quite a bit of
+trouble, perhaps even more than the Indians."
+
+The peaceful Saints in the Gila Valley undoubtedly found much that was
+foreign to their habits of life. A tale of the frolicsome cowboy is told
+by Isaac P. Robinson of Thatcher, who was in Safford in 1884:
+
+"There were but very few houses in Safford then. About the only business
+house was the Glasby building, which had a saloon and also a store. The
+cowboys had things about their own way. They would come into the store
+and take possession. Mr. Glasby would go out and leave it to them. They
+would shoot up the store, help themselves to what they wanted, pay for
+everything they had taken, shoot up the town and go on. But I don't want
+to see any more of it. You haven't the remotest idea what a lot of
+trouble they made. This was the main route from the north into Mexico and
+the principal rendezvous for a lot of those rough characters."
+
+In the way of outlawry, the valley had unwelcome notoriety, when from its
+rougher element was constituted a band which, May 11, 1889, ambushed
+Paymaster J.W. Wham of the United States army, on the road between
+Fort Grant and Fort Thomas, and stole about $28,000 in gold and silver,
+intended for the pay of the troops at the latter post. An escort of
+eleven colored infantrymen, led by a sergeant, apparently deserted by the
+Major, fought well, but was driven away after five of the soldiers had
+been wounded. Thirteen bandits were understood to have been implicated.
+Eight individuals were arrested. There was trial at Tucson, where Wham
+and the soldiers were notably poor witnesses and where the defendants
+were acquitted.
+
+
+A Gray Highway of Danger
+
+Just as the Mormon settlements on the Little Colorado providentially were
+given assistance by the building of the Atlantic and Pacific railroad,
+just so the struggling pioneers on the Gila found benefit in the opening
+of the silver and copper mines at Globe. Freight teams were in demand for
+hauling coke and supplies from the railroad at Willcox and Bowie and for
+hauling back from the mines the copper bullion. Much of this freighting
+was done with great teams of mules and horses, veritable caravans, owned
+by firms such as Tully & Ochoa or M.G. Samaniego of Tucson, but enough
+was left for the two and four-horse teams of the Mormons, who thus were
+enabled from the hauling of a few tons of coke to provide provisions for
+their families and implements for the tilling of their fields.
+
+The road from the railroad to Globe ofttimes was a gray highway of
+danger. After leaving the Gila towns, it led through the length of the
+Apache Indian reservation. Usually the teams went in sort of military
+order. The larger "outfits" had strict rules for defense, each driver
+with his pistol and rifle and each "swamper" similarly armed. Every night
+the wagons were drawn into a circle, within which the horses were
+corralled or tied to the wagon poles, where they were fed. Pickets were
+kept out and care was incessant day and night.
+
+But, sometimes, a freighter, eager to earn extra pay for a quick trip, or
+wishing to drive ahead of the cloud of dust that enveloped each large
+convoy, would push along by himself. Possibly the next day, the train
+would come to the embers of what had been wagons and their contents.
+Nearby would be the bodies of the tortured and murdered teamsters. So the
+careful ones united, remaining at the railroad until at least a score of
+wagons had accumulated, and then made their way northward, relatively
+safe through united vigilance.
+
+In 1899 the Gila Valley, Globe & Northern railroad was completed from
+Bowie, through the Gila Valley towns, to Globe, a distance of 124 miles,
+though the loss to the freighters was more than balanced by the general
+good to the community of bettered transportation facilities. Right-of-way
+through the reservation was accorded by the Indians after a diplomatic
+distribution to them by a railroad agent of $8000, all in silver coin.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-three
+
+Civic and Church Features
+
+
+Troublesome River Conditions
+
+In the memory of Americans still living, the Gila River through the
+Safford region, was a relatively narrow stream, over which in places a
+stone could be tossed. There were occasional lagoons, some of them
+created by beaver dams--picturesque, but breeding places for mosquitoes
+and sources of malaria. Camp Goodwin was abandoned because of malarial
+conditions in 1869-70, troops being transferred to the new post of Camp
+Ord (Apache).
+
+The river situation of later years has been very different indeed from
+that known to the pioneers. The lagoons drained and the underbrush, grass
+and trees cut away, the river floods have had full sweep and, as a
+result, there has been tremendous loss in the washing away of the lower
+lying land. The farms have been pushed back toward the mesas. Now under
+consideration is a comprehensive irrigation system that will cost several
+millions of dollars, with a great concrete diversion dam above
+Solomonville and with two head canals that economically will serve both
+sides of the river.
+
+But in the early days the colonists did what they could, not what
+economically was advisable. They did not have such trouble as was known
+along the Little Colorado and their water supply was much larger and
+somewhat more regular. They took out little canals at different points,
+with headworks that were easily replaced when washed away.
+
+For a few years around 1910, there appeared a prospect that the Gila
+Valley farms would have to be abandoned unless something could be
+done to stop the flow of tailings from the concentrating mills of the
+Clifton-Morenci country, on the San Francisco River, a tributary of the
+Gila. The finely pulverized rock was brought down in the irrigation water
+and spread out upon the fields in a thick layer, almost impervious to the
+growth of vegetation. Mit Simms, then a farmer near Safford, tells that
+the dried tailings upon his farm spread out in a smooth sheet, that could
+be broken like glass, with a blow from a hammer. The mining companies
+refused to heed demand to impound their tailings flow, and so the matter
+was taken into the courts. Decisions uniformly were with the settlers,
+the matter finally being disposed of in their favor in the United States
+Supreme Court. Then the companies, using the tailings material for the
+making of dams, created great tailings reservoirs in the hills near their
+plants, and filled up valley after valley with the rejected material.
+Incidentally, they spent in this work enormous sums, believed to have
+been sufficient to have bought all the farms of the Gila Valley, at the
+price put upon them ten years ago. This expended money, however, may yet
+be returned, for plans have been set afoot for leaching copper treasure
+out of the tailings banks.
+
+Artesian water was struck in the Gila Valley in 1887, according to John
+A. Lee, understood to have been the first well borer in the artesian
+district, within which are the present towns of Algodon (otherwise
+Lebanon) and Artesia. The first water was struck at a depth of 330 feet
+and better flows were secured with deeper borings down to 1000 feet.
+
+The first few years of the Gila Valley settlement, every alternate
+section was assumed to be the property of the Texas Pacific Railroad
+Company, a land grant claimed by the Southern Pacific. This claim was
+decided against by the United States authorities early in 1885, and the
+lands thus were thrown open to entry by the settlers. Pima was on
+railroad land and filing of its townsite formally was accomplished by
+Mayor W.W. Crockett.
+
+
+Basic Law in a Mormon Community
+
+Interest attaches to the Church commission, dated February 20, 1883,
+received by Christopher Layton on his appointment as head of the San
+Pedro and Gila Valley settlers. It was signed by John Taylor and Jos. F.
+Smith of the First Presidency and contains instructions and admonitions
+that might well have served as a basic law of any God-fearing community.
+
+President Layton was instructed to see that the settlers did not scatter
+themselves promiscuously throughout the land, that surveys be made for
+townsites, that the people settle in these localities, with facilities
+for public schools and meeting houses, and that due provision be made to
+protect the settlers against depredations of the lawless and unprincipled
+combinations of brigands and other hostile marauders.
+
+A notably interesting paragraph recites, "You will understand that our
+object in the organization of the Stake of St. Joseph is to introduce the
+Gospel into the Mexican nation, or that part of it which lies contiguous
+to your present settlement, and also, when prudence shall dictate and
+proper arrangements are entered into, that a settlement may commence to
+be made in that country."
+
+It was recommended, in forming cities either in Arizona or Mexico, "care
+should be had to place them in proper localities, convenient to land and
+water, with careful examination of the sanitary conditions. It is the
+general opinion that it is more healthy and salubrious on the plateaus or
+mesas than on the low land, the latter of which in your district of
+country are more or less subject to malarial diseases, which ought,
+always, when practicable, to be avoided."
+
+The streets should be wide and commodious, with public squares for
+church, county, school and ornamental purposes.
+
+[Illustration: GILA VALLEY PIONEERS
+1--Wm. R. Teeples  2--John M. Moody
+3--Jos. K. Rogers   4--Ebenezer Pryce  5--Hyrum Brinkerhoff
+6--Samuel H. Claridge  7--Frank N. Tyler]
+
+[Illustration: PIONEER WOMEN OF THE GILA VALLEY
+1--Elizabeth Hanks Curtis                   2--Mrs. W.R. Teeples
+3--Elizabeth Moody 4--Margaret Brinkerhoff  5--Elizabeth Layton
+6--Josephine Wall Rogers                    7--Rebecca Claridge]
+
+School and church affairs should be kept separate. There was warning
+against favoritism in the allotment of town lands and a recommendation
+that the principles of the United Order be approached, without the
+placing of the communities under rigid rules.
+
+Another interesting paragraph recites, "The order of Zion when carried
+out, will be that all men should act in the interest of and for the
+welfare of Zion, and individualism, private speculation and covetousness
+will be avoided, and that all act in the interest of all and for the
+welfare of the whole community. We may not, at present, be able to carry
+out these ideas in full, but without any special formality or rule, we
+may be approaching these principles as fast as circumstances will admit
+of it. We profess to be acting and operating for God, and for His
+Kingdom, and we are desirous that our acts should be in consonance with
+our professions."
+
+In the selection of elders, care was enjoined that all such persons
+should be honorable, free from any pernicious or degrading habits, "for
+if men cannot control themselves, they are not fit to be rulers or
+leaders in the Kingdom of God."
+
+There was special injunction that the Lamanites, the Indians, be treated
+with all consideration and shown that the Mormons do not teach one thing
+and practice another. The Indians should be taught to be "friendly with
+the government of the United States or Mexico and to live at peace with
+one another, to be chaste, sober and honest and subject to the law of
+God."
+
+Tithing of one-tenth was stipulated as in the interest of the people. The
+new leader was advised that, "God has placed you as a watchman on the
+walls of Zion and He will hold you accountable for your acts," and he was
+directed to see that the laws of God were carried out in his community,
+irrespective of persons or families.
+
+
+Layton Soldier and Pioneer
+
+Christopher Layton was a rough diamond, almost illiterate, yet possessed
+of much energy and a keen, practical judgment that served him and his
+people well through the course of a long life. He was an Englishman, born
+in Bedfordshire, March 8, 1821. His first practical experience was at 7
+years of age, when he kept crows from the wheatfields for the large
+salary of 56 cents a week, boarding himself. In 1843 he crossed the
+ocean. Elsewhere is noted his experience with the Mormon Battalion.
+Following discharge, for a few years he lived in California, finally
+taking ship from San Francisco back to Liverpool, where he arrived in
+March, 1850. On the same ship's return, James Pennell led 250 converts to
+America, landing at New Orleans proceeding by river to St. Louis, and
+then Utah.
+
+In September, 1852, Layton first saw Salt Lake, arriving at the head of
+an expedition of 52 wagons, including the first threshing outfit in Utah.
+In 1856 he was in the Carson Valley of Nevada, where he proceeded toward
+the very notable undertaking of building a wagon road across the Sierra
+Nevadas to Hangtown, early Placerville. With the rest of the Utah Saints,
+he was recalled to Salt Lake in the fall of 1857.
+
+Layton arrived at St. David February 24, 1883. In May he organized wards
+on the Gila, at Pima, Thatcher, Graham and Curtis, under Jos. K. Rogers,
+John M. Moody, Jorgen Jorgensen and Moses Curtis. In March of the next
+year, he organized Layton branch near Safford.
+
+President Layton's own story of his advent in the Gila Valley includes:
+
+"The Saints were wanting to settle close together, so I bought a 600-acre
+tract of land of a syndicate living in Tucson. Then I bought out the
+squatters' rights and improvements by taking quit-claim deeds of them.
+Thus I was in a position to help the Saints to get homes. In July I
+bought 320 acres of Peter Anderson (adjoining the other tract) and laid
+it out in a townsite which we named Thatcher. I built a three-roomed
+adobe house in Thatcher ward (it being the second house built on the
+townsite) and we moved into it. I gave a lot for a schoolhouse and the
+few Saints who were settling here then built an adobe building on it. The
+mesquite was so thick that when we tried to go any place we were very
+fortunate if we did not get lost. I gave the Seventies a lot, but they
+never made any use of it; also gave the bishop a lot for tithing
+purposes. The Academy was afterward built on it."
+
+Layton, aided by his many sons, was active in business, as well as in the
+faith, operating stores, a flour mill, an ice factory and a number of
+stage lines, one of which stretched all the way from Bowie Station
+through the Gila Valley, to Globe, and, through the Tonto Basin, to Pine
+and Fort Verde, the longest stage mail line in the Southwest at the time.
+
+The transfer of headquarters of St. Joseph Stake appears to have been
+determined upon very soon after the arrival of Layton at St. David. One
+of his counselors, David P. Kimball, visited Smithville March 10, 1883,
+and in May Layton himself was on the ground, visiting Smithville (Pima)
+and Safford. There was approval of the new settlement of Curtis on May 10
+and on the 13th was location of the townsite of Thatcher.
+
+At this time there appears to have been determination to move
+headquarters of the Stake from St. David to Smithville, where the first
+formal quarterly conference of the Stake was held June 3. No record can
+be found of this transfer nor of the subsequent change to Thatcher.
+
+
+A New Leader on the Gila
+
+In 1897 President Layton's health declined and on January 27, 1898, he
+was released from his spiritual office, to which was appointed Andrew
+Kimball, this with a letter from President Wilford Woodruff, expressing
+the highest appreciation of Layton's labors. Christopher Layton left
+Arizona June 13, 1898, for his old home in Kaysville, Utah, where he died
+August 7. At a reunion, about six years ago, of the Layton descendants
+and their families, were present 594 individuals.
+
+Andrew Kimball, successor to the presidency of St. Joseph Stake, had
+formal installation January 30, 1898, at the hands of Apostles John Henry
+Smith and John W. Taylor, at the same time there being general
+reorganization of the Church subdivision. President Kimball, who still
+most actively is in office, is a son of the noted Apostle Heber C.
+Kimball, First Counselor to President Brigham Young. President Kimball
+from the very first showed keen enthusiasm in the work of upbuilding his
+community. In October of the year of his installation he returned to
+Utah, like the spies returned from the land of Canaan, bringing equally
+large stories of the fertility of the new land. Instead of bearing a huge
+bunch of grapes, he had to take with him photographs, in order to secure
+reception of his stories of corn that was sixteen feet tall, Johnson
+grass eight feet high, a sweet potato that weighed 36 pounds, of peaches
+too big to go into the mouth of a preserving jar, sunflower stalks that
+were used for fence poles, weeds that had to be cut with an ax and sugar
+cane that grew four years from one planting. On the strength of his
+enthusiasm, very material additions were made to the population of the
+Gila Valley, and the President even yet keeps busy in missionary work,
+not only of his Church, but work calculated to assist in the upbuilding
+of the Southwest along irrigated agricultural lines.
+
+
+Church Academies of Learning
+
+Every Mormon community gives especial attention to its schools, for
+education in the regard of the people follows closely after their
+consideration of spiritual affairs. The normal schools of the State
+always have had a very large percentage of the youth of the faith,
+training to be teachers.
+
+Three of the four Arizona Stakes maintain academies, wherein the
+curriculum also carries religious instruction. The largest of the three
+Church schools, at Thatcher, lately was renamed the Gila Normal College.
+It was established in January, 1891, under instruction that had been
+received over two years before from the general Church Board of
+Education. Its first sessions were in the meetinghouse at Central, with
+Joy Dunion as principal. The second year's work was at Thatcher, where
+the old adobe meetinghouse was occupied. Thereafter a tithing house was
+used and was expanded for the growing necessities of the school, which
+has been in continuous operation ever since, with the exception of two
+years following 1896, when the finances of the Stake were at low ebb. The
+academy was revived on assumption of Andrew Kimball to the Stake
+Presidency, under Principal Emil Maeser, he a son of one of Utah's most
+noted educators. Andrew C. Peterson has been in charge of the school most
+of the time since 1906. In 1909 was occupied a new building, erected and
+furnished at a cost of about $35,000. Leland H. Creer now is principal.
+
+At St. Johns the St. Johns Stake Academy was founded January 14, 1889,
+with John W. Brown as its first principal. The present building was
+dedicated December 16, 1900. Howard Blazzard now is in active charge,
+while Stake President David K. Udall, first president of the Academy's
+Board, still occupies the same position, after 27 years of service.
+
+The Snowflake Stake Academy was founded, with E.M. Webb in charge, only a
+week later than that of St. Johns. The two institutions for many years
+were the only means provided for local education, beyond the grammar
+grades. At Snowflake industrial and agricultural courses are given
+prominence in the curriculum. Thanksgiving Day, 1910, fire destroyed the
+large school building, which was replaced by a more modern structure,
+that cost $35,000 and that was dedicated Thanksgiving Day, 1913. For
+years the school was directed by Joseph Peterson.
+
+At Mesa, Chandler and Gilbert are maintained seminaries, mainly for
+advanced instruction in Church doctrine.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-four
+
+Movement Into Mexico
+
+
+Looking Over the Land
+
+The Mormon settlement of Mexico, as elsewhere told, was a cherished plan
+of Brigham Young, who saw to the southward a land wherein his Church, its
+doctrines and influence could find room for expansion. He died while
+the southern migration started by him still was far short of a Mexican
+destination, though that country had been explored to an extent by
+several missionary parties.
+
+The first Mormons to enter Mexico were the soldiers of the Mormon
+Battalion who, in 1846, passed south of the Gila in Mexican territory,
+and then entered the present Mexico by a swing of the column southward
+from the San Bernardino ranch around to the valley of the San Pedro.
+The D.W. Jones party was the first missionary expedition into Mexico,
+crossing the Rio Grande at Paso del Norte, the present Juarez, January 7,
+1876. The Pratt-Stewart party, including Meliton G. Trejo, was in
+northern Mexico early in '77, and small missionary parties followed
+thereafter from time to time.
+
+November 15, 1879, Apostle Moses Thatcher was in Mexico City with J.Z.
+Stewart and Trejo, there founding the first organization of the Church
+within the Republic.
+
+Decided impetus was given the southward movement when it became evident
+that the national prosecution against plural marriage was to be pushed to
+the extreme. January 4, 1883, with the idea of finding an asylum for the
+Saints in Mexico, Apostle Thatcher traveled from St. David on the San
+Pedro, to the southeast as far as Corralitos, where some arrangement was
+made for lands. In the following September, another party from St. David
+explored the country along the Babispe River. Still more important,
+November 2, 1884, Apostles Brigham Young, Jr., and Heber J. Grant
+investigated the Yaqui River section of Sonora, this with three companies
+of prospective settlers from the Salt River, Gila and San Pedro Valleys,
+together with some additions from Salt Lake.
+
+In January, 1885, migration was under personal charge of President John
+Taylor, who, after a notable conference at St. David, as noted in the
+history of that section, led a party southward into Sonora and held a
+satisfactory conference with Governor Torres, yet made no settlement. In
+the same month, however, notation has been found that Alexander F.
+Macdonald was at Corralitos, Chihuahua, from Mesa. A few parties were in
+that locality in February, 1885, one expedition of seventy having come
+from Arizona, under Captain Noble. Something of a setback was known when,
+on April 9, 1885, the Governor of Chihuahua ordered departure of all
+Mormon settlers within his State. Apostles Young and Thatcher, May 18,
+visited the City of Mexico and secured from the federal government
+permission for the immigrants to remain.
+
+
+Colonization in Chihuahua
+
+It was in 1886 that the main Mormon exodus traveled across the border.
+The way had been prepared by the organization of a Colorado corporation,
+the Mexican Colonization & Agricultural Company, this under the
+management of Anthony W. Ivins, a northern Arizona pioneer. This company
+had been granted the usual colonists' privileges, including the
+introduction, without duty, of livestock, agricultural implements and
+household effects, but had no special concessions. It was given the usual
+exemption from taxation for ten years. Through this company, land was
+acquired at Colonia Juarez and Colonia Diaz, by purchase from Ignacio
+Gomez del Campo and others. Payment was made with money that had been
+donated in Utah and from Church funds.
+
+Colonies were established, in which were consolidated the Mormons already
+south of the line and the newcomers. Diaz was on the Janos River, near
+the Mexican town of Ascension, and Colonia Juarez was 75 miles upstream
+on a branch of the Janos river, the Piedras Verdes. At the former place
+about 100,000 acres were acquired and at the latter 25,000. A prior
+settlement at Corralitos had been established in the fall of 1884. Juarez
+had the first meeting-house, built January 31, 1886, but the town had to
+be moved two miles, in January, 1887, on discovery that the site was
+outside of the lands that had been purchased.
+
+Largely from data secured from Mr. Ivins is found much of detail
+concerning northern Mexican settlement. One important step was the
+acquirement in 1886, of 100,000 acres of Mexican government timber land
+in the Sierra Madre Mountains, near Colonia Juarez, and on this tract was
+established Colonia Pacheco, wherein the main industry was lumbering.
+Then two other mountain tracts were acquired, of 6000 acres each, upon
+which were established Colonia Garcia and Colonia Chuichupa, sixteen
+miles to the southwest of Colonia Juarez. In 1889 was established Colonia
+Dublan, upon a 60,000-acre tract that was most valuable of all,
+considered agriculturally. Naturally this became the strongest of all the
+settlements of the colonist company.
+
+There had been exploration, however, to the westward, in the State of
+Sonora, and in 1896, a tract of 110,000 acres was acquired on the Babispe
+River. There was established Colonia Oaxaca. The land was mainly valuable
+for grazing, but some good farming land was along the river. Twenty-five
+miles below Oaxaca, three years later was acquired a tract of 25,000
+acres, whereon Colonia Morelos was established, to be the center of an
+agricultural section, with attached grazing land.
+
+
+Prosperity in an Alien Land
+
+As colonization generally was directed from a central agency, each of the
+colonies had somewhat the same method of establishment and of operation,
+this founded upon the experience of the people in Utah and Arizona. There
+would be laid out a townsite, near which would be small tracts of garden
+land, and farther away larger tracts of agricultural and grazing land,
+sold to the colonists at cost with ample time for payment, title
+remaining in the company until all the purchase price had been paid. In
+each colony one of the very first public works was erection of a
+schoolhouse, used as a house of worship and for public hall, as well.
+Graduates from the colony grammar schools could be sent to an academy at
+Colonia Juarez, where four years' high school work was given. Skilled
+teachers were secured wherever possible. Instruction was free, both to
+the children of the colonists and to the Mexicans. Wherever sufficient
+school maintenance could not be provided, the deficiency was made up by
+the Church.
+
+In each colony the rough homes of adobe or rock later were replaced by
+houses of lumber or brick, until, it is told, these Mexican towns were
+among the best built known in the Southwest.
+
+Agriculture was notably successful. There were fine orchards, vegetables
+were abundant and good crops of grain and potatoes were known. The best
+breeds of cattle and horses were imported and improved agricultural
+machinery was brought in. Hundreds of miles of roads were constructed by
+the colonists, turned over to the government without cost, and taxation
+was cheerfully paid on the same basis as known by neighboring Mexican
+settlements.
+
+Wherever water could be developed were well-surveyed ditches, heading on
+the Casas Grandes, Janos and Babispe Rivers and their tributaries,
+though, without reservoirs, there often was shortage of water. Water
+power was used for the operation of grist and lumber mills and even for
+electric lighting. By 1912 there were five lumber and shingle mills,
+three grist mills, three tanneries, a shoe factory and other
+manufacturing industries and there was added a telephone system, reaching
+all Chihuahua colonies.
+
+In general, relations with the Mexican government and with the
+neighboring Mexicans appear to have been cordial. Possibly the best
+instance of this lies in an anecdote concerning the visit to the
+Chihuahua State Fair of President Porfirio Diaz. There he saw a
+remarkable exhibit of industry and frugality presented by the Mormon
+colonies, including saddles and harness, fruit, fresh and preserved,
+and examples of the work of the schools. Then it was the General
+fervently exclaimed, "What could I not do with my beloved Mexico if I
+only had more citizens and settlers like the Mormons."
+
+The colonists took no part in the politics of the country. Only a few
+became Mexican citizens. Junius S. Romney stated that in each settlement
+pride was taken in maintaining the best ideals of American government.
+Occasionally there was irritation, mainly founded upon the difference
+between the American and Mexican judicial systems. According to Ammon M.
+Tenney, in all the years of Mormon occupation, not a single colonist was
+convicted of a crime of any sort whatever. In 1912 the colonists numbered
+4225.
+
+
+Abandonment of the Mountain Colonies
+
+At the break-up of the Diaz government, May 25, 1911, fear and disorder
+succeeded peaceful conditions that had been known in the mountain
+settlements. Sections of Chihuahua were dominated by Villa, Salazar,
+Lopez, Gomez and other revolutionary leaders. A volume might be written
+upon the experiences of the colonists on the eastern side of the
+mountains. There would appear to have been little prejudice against them
+and little actual antagonism, but they had amassed a wealth that was
+needed by the revolutionary forces, and there were recurring demands
+upon them for horses, wagons, supplies, ammunition and finally for all
+weapons. Patience and diplomacy were needed in the largest degree in the
+conferences with the Mexican military leaders. Soon it was evident,
+however, that nothing remained but flight to the United States. July 29,
+1912, most of the settlers were hurried aboard a train, almost without
+time in which to change their clothing. The stores and public buildings
+were closed. The colonists were huddled, with small personal property,
+into boxcars or cattle cars and hauled from Colonia Dublan to El Paso.
+There, there was immediate assistance by the City of El Paso and the
+United States government, soon reinforced by friends and relatives in
+Arizona and Utah. At one time 1500 Mormon refugees were encamped in El
+Paso.
+
+A. W. Ivins tells:
+
+"As soon as the colonists were gone, a campaign of looting and
+destruction was commenced by the Mexican revolutionist and local Mexicans
+near the colonies. The stores were broken into and looted of hundreds of
+thousands of dollars worth of merchandise. Private homes were treated in
+the same manner. Livestock was appropriated, until almost every available
+thing was carried away or destroyed. There was little wanton destruction
+of property except at Colonia Diaz, where the better part of the
+residences and public buildings was burned. The homes and farm buildings
+were not destroyed."
+
+Some of the colonists returned as soon as a degree of safety was assured,
+to check up the property remaining and to plan for the eventual return of
+their people. But again there had to be an exodus, this late in December,
+1915. At that time it is told that Villa was only a few miles away,
+preparing to march upon the Mormon settlements, with all orders given to
+that end. But in the morning the plans were changed, apparently by
+celestial intervention, and he marched his men in another direction, into
+the Galiana Valley.
+
+On one of the flights, after all but the most vigorous of the men had
+departed, there came peremptory demand for surrender of all arms and
+ammunition. Some guns were surrendered, but the best had been deposited
+at a mountain rendezvous. To that point the men hurried and, well-armed
+and well-mounted, made their way by mountain trails to the border,
+avoiding conflict with Mexican bands that sought to bar the way.
+
+
+Sad Days for the Sonora Colonists
+
+In 1905 was known a disastrous flood, which at Oaxaca swept away forty
+brick houses, though without loss of life. At Morelos a number of houses
+were swept away and about 1000 acres of choice farming land was rendered
+worthless. Then Morelos and Oaxaca colonists in the Batepito Valley,
+nine miles north of Morelos, founded Colonia San Jose, with new canals,
+in addition to those of the Babispe. In 1912, Colonia Morelos had in
+granary over 50,000 bushels of wheat, while the orchards, gardens and
+alfalfa fields had produced an abundance. These Sonora colonists had 4000
+acres of cultivated and fenced lands.
+
+A flour mill was operated, succeeding one that had been destroyed by fire
+of incendiary origin. The Morelos canal had cost $12,000. Many local
+industries had been established, a good schoolhouse was in each
+settlement and no saloons were tolerated. In general, there was good
+treatment from the national Mexican government, though "local authorities
+had demands called very oppressive and overbearing."
+
+War came to the western colonies in November, 1911, on the arrival of a
+band of seventy men under Isidro Escobosa, repulsed at El Tigre and
+fleeing to Morelos, followed by federal cavalry, who are reported to have
+been at least as destructive as the bandits. Thereafter was continuous
+grief for the colonists. In June, 1500 federals were quartered on the
+streets and in the school buildings at Morelos, with open depredations
+upon the settlers' personal property, and scandalous conditions from
+which no appeal was effective. There then was demand for wagons and
+teamsters to accompany the federals. The settlers sent their horses into
+secret places in the mountains and thus saved most of them. Much the same
+conditions were known at Oaxaca.
+
+When it became evident that Mexican conditions were unendurable, the sick
+and the older people were sent into the United States. August 30, 1912,
+following news that the rebel Salazar, was marching into Sonora, a large
+number of women and children were sent northward. Sixty wagons
+constituted the expedition, carrying 450 people. The journey was through
+a rough country, in which there was one fatal accident, and in the rainy
+season, with attendant hardship. At Douglas was cordial reception, with
+assistance by the United States and by citizens. September 3, still more
+of the women and children went northward, leaving about 25 men in the
+colonies, as guards.
+
+Occasional parties kept up connection between the border and the colonies
+for some time thereafter. A few of the expeditions were captured by the
+Mexicans and robbed.
+
+The colonies had been entirely abandoned for some time when a Mormon
+party from Douglas returned on a scouting trip. According to a chronicler
+of the period:
+
+"On arriving at the colonies they found that every house had been looted
+and everything of value taken, sewing machines and furniture ruthlessly
+smashed up and lying around as debris, while house organs, which were to
+be found in nearly every Mormon home, were heaps of kindling wood. The
+carcasses of dead animals lay about the streets, doors and windows were
+smashed in, stores gutted and the contents strewn everywhere about, while
+here and there a cash register or some other modern appliance gave
+evidence of the hand of prejudice-destroying ignorance."
+
+In October, Consul Dye of Douglas made a formal inspection.
+
+Some of the colonists returned when conditions apparently had bettered,
+and there is at hand a record of what may be considered to have been the
+final abandonment. In the first days of May, 1914, at Douglas, 92
+Americans from the three Sonora colonies, arrived in 21 wagons, being the
+last of the colonists. They practically had been ordered out, after
+having been notified by the American Secretary of State that the
+protection of their country would not be extended to them. Most of their
+property was left behind, at the mercy of the Mexican authorities.
+
+
+Congressional Inquiry
+
+In September, 1912, at El Paso, was an investigation under the terms of a
+Senate resolution, which sought to find whether the Mexican troubles had
+been incited by American citizens or corporations. Senator Smith of
+Michigan was chairman of the committee. At the hearings there was
+repeated inquiry apparently seeking to demonstrate that the Standard Oil
+Company, to a degree, was responsible for the Madera revolution. There
+also was considerable inquiry, apparently hostile, seeking to define
+ulterior reasons why the Mormons should have chosen Mexico as an abiding
+place. The investigation covered all parts of Mexico where American
+interests had suffered, and only incidentally touched the Mormon
+settlements. There was ample evidence to the effect that the Mormons
+retained their American citizenship and American customs, that they had
+lived in amity with the former stable Mexican government, that any
+troubles they may have had were not due to any actions of their own, but
+to the desire for loot on the part of the roaming national and
+revolutionary soldiery and that their departure was forced and necessary.
+No especial definition seems to have been given to the exact amount of
+the loss suffered, but there was agreement that the damage done to these
+American citizens was very large. At the outbreak of the revolution,
+according to evidence presented, guarantees had been received by the
+Mormons from both of the major Mexican factions, but, when these
+guarantees were referred to, General Salazar sententiously observed,
+"They are but words."
+
+
+Repopulation of the Mexican Colonies
+
+A few valiant souls returned to the colonies and remained as best they
+could, forming nuclei for others who have drifted back from time to time,
+though neither their going nor coming was under direct Church
+instruction.
+
+Early in 1920, President J.C. Bentley of the Juarez Stake told of the
+revival of the Mexican missions, and in the latter part of the same year,
+A.W. Ivins, returning from the Chihuahua colonies, told that 779
+colonists were found, approximately one-fifth of the total number of
+refugees. To a degree their property had been maintained and their
+orchards kept alive by the few who had remained over the troublous
+period. The academy at Colonia Juarez had been running some time, with
+100 students. He told of the great work of reconstruction that would have
+to be done, in restoration of fences and homes, and expressed confidence
+that all now would be well under the more stable government that has been
+provided in the southern republic.
+
+There was restoration of order in Mexico in 1920 and assumption of an
+apparently stable political government under President Alvaro Obregon, a
+Sonora citizen, with whom is associated P. Elias Calles, who had somewhat
+to do with the Morelos-Oaxaca troubles. Assurances have been given that
+protection will be extended to all immigrants, the Mormon land titles
+have been accepted and a fresh movement southward has been started across
+the border. But there are many, possibly a half of those who fled, who
+will not return. They have established themselves, mainly in Arizona,
+under conditions they do not care to leave. So, it is probable, further
+extension southward of the Church plans of agricultural settlement will
+be a task that will lie upon the shoulders of a younger generation.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter Twenty-five
+
+Modern Development
+
+
+Oases Have Grown in the Desert
+
+The Mormons of Arizona today are not to be considered in the same manner
+as have been their forebears. The older generation came in pilgrimages,
+wholly within the faith, sent to break the wilderness for generations to
+come. These pioneers must be considered in connection with their faith,
+for through that faith and its supporting Church were they sent on their
+southward journeyings. Thus it happens that "Mormon settlement" was
+something apart and distinctive in the general development of Arizona and
+of the other southwestern sections into which Mormon influences were
+taken. It has not been sought in this work even to infer that Mormons in
+anywise had loftier aspirations than were possessed by any other pioneer
+people of religious and law-abiding sort. However, there must be
+statement that the Mormons were alone in their idea of extension in
+concrete agricultural communities. Such communities were founded on
+well-developed ideals, that had nothing in common with the usual frontier
+spirit. They contained no drinking places or disorderly resorts and in
+them rarely were breaches of the peace. Without argument, this could have
+been accomplished by any other religious organization. Something of the
+sort has been done by other churches elsewhere in America. But in the
+Southwest such work of development on a basis of religion was done only
+by the Mormons.
+
+There was need for the sustaining power of Celestial Grace upon the
+average desert homestead, where the fervent sun lighted an expanse of dry
+and unpromising land. The task of reclamation in the earlier days would
+have been beyond the ability and resources of any colonists not welded
+into some sort of mutual organization. This welding had been accomplished
+among the Mormons even before the wagon trains started southward.
+Thereafter all that was needed was industry, as directed by American
+intelligence.
+
+
+Prosperity Has Succeeded Privation
+
+Today the Mormon population of Arizona does not exceed 25,000, within a
+total population of over 300,000. The relative percentage of strength,
+however, is larger than the figures indicate, this due, somewhat, to the
+fact that the trend of Mormon progress still is by way of cultivation of
+the soil. Of a verity, a family head upon a farm, productive and
+independent, is of larger value to the community and of more importance
+therein than is the average city dweller.
+
+The immigrant from Utah who came between 1876 and 1886 no longer has the
+old ox-bowed wagon. His travel nowadays is by automobile. His log or
+adobe hut has been replaced by a handsome modern home. His children have
+had education and have been reared in comfort that never knew lack of
+food. Most of the Mormon settlements no longer are exclusively Mormon.
+There has come a time when immigration, by rail, has surrounded and
+enveloped the foundations established by the pioneers.
+
+To the newer generation this work is addressed especially, though its
+dedication, of right, is to the men and women who broke the trails and
+whose vision of the future has been proven true. Many of the pioneers
+remain and share with their children in the benefits of the civilization
+that here they helped to plant. The desert wilderness has been broken and
+in its stead oases are expanding, oases filled with a population proud of
+its Americanism, prosperous through varied industry and blessed with
+consideration for the rights of the neighbor.
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY
+
+Bancroft, Hubert Howe,
+  History of Arizona and New Mexico,
+  History of Nevada,
+  History of California: San Francisco, 1889.
+Bartlett, John R.,
+  Personal Narrative: Appleton, 1854.
+Beadle, S.H.,
+  Western Wilds: Jones Bros., Cincinnati, 1878.
+Church Chronology,
+  Deseret News, Salt Lake.
+Church Historian's Office,
+  Mss. data of Arizona Stakes and Wards.
+Cooke, Col. P. St. George,
+  Conquest of New Mexico and California: Putnam's Sons, New York, 1878.
+Dellenbaugh, F.S.,
+  Breaking the Wilderness: Putnam's Sons, 1908.
+  The Romance of the Colorado River: 1909.
+  A Canyon Voyage, New York, 1908.
+Donaldson, Thomas,
+  Moqui Pueblo Indians: Census Bureau, 1893.
+Englehardt, Rev. Zephyrin,
+  Missions of California: 4 vols., Barry Co., San Francisco, 1905-15.
+Farish, Thos. E.,
+  History of Arizona: 8 vols., Filmer Co., San Francisco, 1915-18.
+Fish, Joseph,
+  Mss. History of Arizona.
+Gregory, Herbert,
+  The Navajo Country: Interior Dept., 1916.
+Hamblin, Jacob,
+  Personal Narrative, by Little: Deseret News, 1909.
+Hinton, R.J.,
+  Handbook to Arizona: Payot-Upham, San Francisco, 1878.
+Hodge, F.W.,
+  Handbook of the American Indians: Bureau of American Ethnology.
+James, Dr. Geo. Wharton,
+  In and Around the Grand Canyon: Little-Brown Co., Boston, 1900.
+Jenson, Andrew,
+  Biographical Encyclopedia: 3 vols. Deseret News, 1900, 1910, 1920.
+Jones, D.W.,
+  Forty Years Among the Indians: Salt Lake, 1890.
+Layton, Christopher,
+  Autobiography (Mrs. Selina L. Phillips, John Q. Cannon): Deseret News,
+1911.
+McClintock, Jas. H.,
+  History of Arizona: 2 vols., Clarke Co., Chicago, 1916.
+Munk, Dr. J.A.,
+  Arizona Sketches: Grafton Press, N.Y., 1905
+Powell, J.W.,
+  Canyons of the Colorado: Flood-Vincent, Meadville, Penn., 1895.
+Roberts, B.H.,
+  History of the Mormon Church: Salt Lake.
+Standage, Henry,
+  Mss. Story of Mormon Battalion.
+Twitchell, Ralph W.,
+  Leading facts of New Mexican History: Torch Press, Cedar Rapids, IA.,
+1911.
+Tyler, Daniel,
+  Mormon Battalion: Salt Lake, 1881.
+Whitney, Orson F.,
+  History of Utah: 3 vols., Geo. Q. Cannon Co., Salt Lake, 1892.
+
+
+
+
+MORMON SETTLEMENT PLACE NAMES
+
+(Capital letters indicate present settlement names)
+See map of Arizona
+
+ADAIR, Fools Hollow--2 1/2 m. w. of Showlow
+ALGODON, Lebanon--7 m. se. of Thatcher
+ALMA, Stringtown--about 1 m. w. of Mesa
+Allen City, Allen Camp, Cumorah, ST. JOSEPH--Little Colorado settlement
+ALPINE, Frisco, Bush Valley--60 m. se. of St. Johns
+Apache Springs--at Forest Dale
+Apache Springs--sw. of Pinetop, Cooley's last ranch
+Amity and Omer, Union, EAGAR--upper Round Valley
+Arivaipa Canyon--western route Gila Valley to San Pedro
+ARTESIA--in Gila Valley, about 18 m. se. of Thatcher
+ASHURST, Redlands, Cork--about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher
+
+Badger Creek--on Mormon wagon road 10 m. w. of Lee's Ferry
+Bagley, Walker, TAYLOR--3 m. s. of Snowflake
+Ballenger, Brigham City--was Little Colorado town
+Beaver Dams, LITTLEFIELD, Millersburg--nw. corner of State
+Beaver Ranch, Woolf Ranch, Lone Pine Crossing, Reidhead--12 m. s. of
+  Snowflake
+Berardo, Horsehead Crossing, HOLBROOK--on Little Colorado
+Binghampton--6 m. n. of Tucson; near Ft. Lowell
+Bisbee--in se. Arizona, near Mexican border
+Bitter Springs--on Mormon road, 18 m. s. of Lee's Ferry
+Black Falls--on Little Colorado, 56 m. s. of Moen Copie
+BLUEWATER--in New Mexico on rr. 107 m. w. of Albuquerque
+Bonelli's, STONE'S FERRY--near mouth of Virgin r.
+Brigham City, Ballenger--was Little Colorado r. settlement
+Buckskin Mountains--between Kanab and Colorado r.
+BUNKERVILLE--Muddy settlement, 45 m. sw. of St. George
+Burke Tanks--On road Pleasant Valley to Grand Falls
+BRYCE--in Gila Valley, 2 m. n. of Pima
+Bush Valley, Frisco, ALPINE--60 m. se. of St. Johns
+
+CALLVILLE, Call's Landing--16 m. w. of mouth of Virgin r.
+CEDAR RIDGE--on Mormon road, 33 m. s. of Lee's Ferry
+Cedar Ridge--10 m. ne. of Pleasant Valley
+Cedar Springs--Barney & Norton Double "N" ranch, 30 m. sw. of Thatcher
+CENTRAL--3 m. w. of Thatcher, in Gila Valley
+CHANDLER--8 m. s. of Mesa
+Clark's Ranch--Just off Ft. Apache road, near Showlow
+Clay Springs--Snowflake Stake
+Cluffs Cienega--6 m. e. of Pinetop, embraces new town of Cooley
+COLTER--17 m. se. of Springerville
+Columbine--near top of Mt. Graham, Graham Co.
+COOLEY--at lumber camp near Pinetop, rr. terminus
+Cooley's ranch--At Showlow--C.E. Cooley's first ranch
+Cooley's ranch--where C.E. Cooley died, sw. of Pinetop
+Cumorah, Allen's Camp, ST. JOSEPH--Little Colorado settlement
+CONCHO, Erastus--about half way between Snowflake and St. Johns
+Cork, Redlands, ASHURST--15 m. nw. of Thatcher
+Crossing of the Fathers, Vado de los Padres, El Vado, Ute Crossing,
+  Ute Ford--Colorado river crossing just n. of Utah line
+Curtis, EDEN--about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher, in Gila Valley
+
+DOUGLAS--near Mexican border, se. Arizona
+
+EAGAR, Round Valley--2 m. s. of Springerville
+Eagle Valley--upper end of Muddy Valley
+Eastern Arizona Stake--1878. Included wards e. of Holbrook in ne. Arizona
+East Pinedale, PINEDALE--15 m. sw. of Snowflake
+East Verde--Mazatzal City--was near Payson, in n. Tonto Basin
+EDEN, Curtis--about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher in Gila Valley
+Ellsworth--was 1-3/4 m. s. of Showlow
+Emery--w. of Fort Thomas in Gila Valley
+Enterprise--was near San Jose, 15 m. e. of Thatcher
+Erastus, CONCHO--about half way between Snowflake and St. Johns
+Eureka Springs--in Arivaipa Valley about 25 m. sw. of Thatcher
+
+Fairview, LAKESIDE, Woodland--about 30 m. s. of Snowflake
+Fairview, Matthews, GLENBAR--10 m. nw. of Thatcher in Gila Valley
+Fools Hollow, ADAIR--in ravine 2-1/2 m. w. of Showlow
+Forest Dale--8 m. sw. of Showlow
+FORT DEFIANCE--near N.M. line 30 m. n. of Santa Fe rr.
+Fort Milligan--was 1 m. w. of present Eagar
+Fort Moroni, Fort Rickerson--7 m. nw. of Flagstaff in LeRoux Flat
+Fort Thomas--in Gila Valley, 22 m. nw. of Thatcher
+Fort Utah, Utahville, Jonesville, LEHI--3 m. ne. of Mesa
+FRANKLIN--near N.M. line 50 m. e. of Thatcher
+FREDONIA, Hardscrabble--3 m. s. of Utah line, 8 m. s. of Kanab
+Frisco, ALPINE, Bush Valley--near N.M. line 60 m. se. of St. Johns
+
+Gila Valley--in Graham Co., in se. Arizona
+GILBERT--6 m. se. of Mesa
+GLENBAR, Fairview, Matthews--10 m. w. of Thatcher in Gila Valley
+GLOBE--80 m. nw. of Thatcher
+GRAHAM--across the Gila river n. of Thatcher
+Grand Falls--on Little Colorado, 5 m. below ford and 47 m. below Winslow
+Grand Wash--leads s. of St. George into Colorado r.
+Grant, Heber, LUNA--across N.M. line, 40 m. se. of Springerville
+GREER--15 m. sw. of Eagar
+
+HARDYVILLE--landing on Colorado, about 90 m. s. of Callville Hayden,
+  Zenos, Mesaville, MESA--Headquarters of Maricopa Stake, 16 m. e. of
+  Phoenix
+HAYDEN--35 m. s. of Globe
+Hayden's Ferry, San Pablo, TEMPE--9 m. e. of Phoenix
+Heber, Grant, LUNA--across N. M. line, 40 m. se. of Springerville
+HEBER--near Wilford, 50 m. sw. of Holbrook
+HEREFORD--on San Pedro, 33 m. s. of St. David
+HOLBROOK, Horsehead Crossing, Berardo--on Little Colorado
+Horsehead Crossing, Berardo, HOLBROOK--on Little Colorado
+House Rock Springs--on Mormon road, 38 m. sw. of Lee's Ferry
+HUBBARD--6 m. nw. of Thatcher
+HUNT--on Little Colorado, 17 m. nw. of St. Johns
+
+Jacob's Pools--on Mormon road, 27 m. sw. of Lee's Ferry
+JOHNSON'S--on Mormon road, 14 m. ne. of Kanab, n. of Utah line
+Johnsonville, Nephi--was successor of Tempe ward, 3 m. w. of Mesa
+Jonesville, Utahville, Ft. Utah, LEHI--3 m. ne. of Mesa
+Joppa--in Snowflake Stake
+Junction (City), RIOVILLE--at junction of Muddy r. with Virgin r.
+Juniper, LINDEN--8 m. w. of Showlow
+
+KANAB--just n. of Utah line, about 65 m. e. of St. George
+
+LAKESIDE, Fairview, Woodland--ward 30 m. s. of Snowflake
+LAVEEN--on Salt River, 12 m. sw. of Phoenix
+LAYTON--3 m. e. of Thatcher
+Lebanon, ALGODON--in cotton district, 7 m. se. of Thatcher
+Lee Valley--15 m. sw. of Eagar
+LEE'S FERRY, Lonely Dell--on Colorado r., 18 m. s. of Utah line
+LEHI, Jonesville, Utahville, Ft. Utah--ward 3 m. ne. of Mesa
+LeRoux Springs and Flat--about 7 m. nw. of Flagstaff, location of Ft.
+  Moroni
+Limestone Tanks--on Mormon road, 27 m. s. of Lee's Ferry
+LINDEN, Juniper--8 m. w. of Showlow
+Little Colorado Stake--first Arizona Stake, embraced Little Colorado
+  settlements
+LITTLEFIELD, Beaver Dams, Millersburg--on Virgin r., 3 m. e. of Nevada
+  line
+LOGAN, West Point--s. of Muddy r., 15 m. w. of St. Joseph
+Lonely Dell, LEE'S FERRY--crossing on Colorado r., 18 m. s. of Utah line
+Lone Pine, Beaver ranch, Woolf ranch, Reidhead--12 m. s. of Snowflake
+LUNA (Valley), Grant, Heber--across N.M. line, 40 m. se. of Springerville
+
+Macdonald--on San Pedro, 5 m. s. of St. David
+MARICOPA STAKE--Headquarters at Mesa
+Matthews, Fairview, GLENBAR--10 m. nw. of Thatcher in Gila Valley
+Mazatzal City--in Tonto Basin, on East Verde r.
+McClellan Tanks--on Mormon road, about 35 m. s. of Lee's Ferry
+Meadows--on Little Colorado r., 8 m. nw. of St. Johns
+MESA, Hayden, Zenos, Mesaville--Maricopa Stake Headquarters, 16 m. e. of
+  Phoenix
+MESQUITE--on n. side of Virgin r., 1 m. w. of Nevada line
+MIAMI--6 m. w. of Globe, 86 m. nw. of Thatcher
+Milligan Fort--was 1 m. w. of present Eagar
+Millersburg, Beaver Dams, LITTLEFIELD--on Virgin r., nw. corner of
+  Arizona
+Millville--was on Mogollon plateau, 35 m. s. of Flagstaff
+Mill Point--6 m. nw. of St. Thomas on Muddy r.
+Miramonte--9 m. w. of Benson
+Moaby, Moa Ave, Moen Abi, Moanabby--7 m. sw. of Tuba, 60 m. s. of Lee's
+  Ferry
+MOCCASIN SPRINGS--3 m. n. of Pipe Springs
+MOEN COPIE--was mission headquarters, 2 m. s. of Tuba
+Mohave Spring--in Moen Copie wash, s. of Tuba
+Mormon Dairy--near Mormon Lake, belonged to Sunset and Brigham City
+Mormon Lake--about 28 m. se. of Flagstaff, 50 m. w. of Sunset
+Mormon Road--west extension of Spanish Trail, St. George to Los Angeles
+Mormon Road--wagon road from Lee's Ferry to Little Colorado r.
+Mormon Range--at head of Muddy Valley, now se. Nevada
+Mormon Flat--on Apache Trail, Phoenix to Globe, 20 m. ne. of Mesa
+Mormon Fort--n. of Las Vegas, in Nevada
+Mortensen, Percheron, East Pinedale--Just e. of Pinedale settlement
+Mt. Carmel, Winsor--United Order ward in Long Valley n. of Kanab, Utah
+Mt. Trumbull--in Uinkarat Mnts., 30 m. w. of mouth of Kanab Wash
+Mt. Turnbull--37 m. nw. of Thatcher
+Muddy, river and valley, in present Nevada, near nw. corner of Arizona
+Musha Springs--just s. of Tuba, townsite of Tuba City, n. of Moen Copie
+
+Navajo, Savoia, RAMAH--in N. M., 22 m. n. of Zuni, 80 m. ne. of St. Johns
+Navajo Spring--on Mormon road, 8 m. s. of Lee's Ferry
+Navajo Wells--16 m. e. of Kanab, in Utah, foot of Buckskin mts.
+Nephi, Johnsonville--was successor of Tempe ward, 3 m. w. of Mesa
+NUTRIOSO--17 m. se. of Springerville
+
+Obed--was on Little Colorado r., 3 m. sw., across river, from St. Joseph
+Omer and Amity, Union, EAGAR--in lower Round Valley, Apache Co.
+OVERTON, Patterson's Ranch--8 m. nw. of St. Thomas, Nevada
+ORAIBI--Indian village, about 40 m. se. of Moen Copie
+Orderville--was United Order ward in Long Valley, n. of Kanab, in Utah
+
+PAPAGO--Indian ward on both sides of Salt r., just nw. of Mesa.
+Paria River--enters Colorado r. from n., just above Lee's Ferry
+Patterson's Ranch, OVERTON--8 m. nw. of St. Thomas, Nevada
+PAYSON--in upper Tonto Basin, 75 m. w. of Showlow
+Peach Springs--10 m. ne. of station of same name on Santa Fe, 58 m. w. of
+  Ash Fork
+Pearce's Ferry--Colorado r. crossing at mouth of Grand Wash
+Penrod, PINETOP--12 m. se. of Showlow
+Percheron, Mortensen, PINEDALE--15 1/2 m. w. of Showlow
+PHOENIX--Capital of Arizona, in Salt River Valley
+PIMA, Smithville--in Gila Valley, 6 m. nw. of Thatcher
+PINE--on Pine Creek, Tonto Basin, 70 m. w. of n. of Roosevelt dam
+PINEDALE, Percheron, Mortensen--15-1/2 m. w. of Showlow
+Pine Springs--near Pine Creek in Tonto Basin
+PINETOP, Penrod--12 m. se. of Showlow
+PIPE SPRINGS, Winsor Castle--on Mormon road, 20 m. sw. of Kanab
+PLEASANTON--in Williams Valley, N. M., 36 m. s. of Luna Valley
+PLEASANT VALLEY--location of sawmill and dairy, 25 m. se. of Flagstaff
+POMERENE--4 m. n. and e. of Benson
+
+RAMAH, Navajo, Savoia--in N. M., 80 m. ne. of St. Johns
+RAY--25 m. sw. of Globe
+Redlands, ASHURST, Cork--about 15 m. nw. of Thatcher
+REIDHEAD, Beaver Ranch, Woolf Crossing, Lone Pine Crossing--10 m. s. of
+  Taylor
+RICHVILLE, Walnut Grove, 18 m. s. of St. Johns
+RIOVILLE, Junction (City)--junction of Muddy r. with Virgin r.
+Round Valley, EAGAR--35 m. s. of St. Johns
+
+ST. JOHNS, Salem--St. Johns Stake hdqrs., 60 m. se. of Holbrook
+ST. JOHNS STAKE--Embraces eastern Arizona, n. of Graham Co.
+ST. DAVID--on San Pedro r., 7 m. se. of Benson in se. Arizona
+ST. JOSEPH--5 m. n. of Overton, n. side of Muddy r., now in Nevada
+ST. JOSEPH, Allen Camp, Cumorah--on Little Colorado r., 10 m. w. of
+  Holbrook
+ST. JOSEPH STAKE--embraces se. Arizona, hdqrs. at Thatcher
+ST. THOMAS--w. side of Muddy, 1-3/4 m. above junction with Virgin r.
+SAFFORD--3 m. e. of Thatcher
+Salem, ST. JOHNS--St. Johns Stake hdqrs., 60 m. se. of Holbrook
+Salt Lake--33 m. e. of St. Johns; is in New Mexico
+Salt Mountains--Salt deposits on Virgin r., below St. Thomas
+San Francisco Mountains--n. of Flagstaff
+SAN BERNARDINO, Cal.--about 50 m. e. of Los Angeles
+San Bernardino Ranch--in extreme se. comer of Arizona
+San Pablo, Hayden's Ferry, TEMPE--9 m. e. of Phoenix
+San Pedro--river and valley in se. Arizona
+Savoia, Navajo, RAMAH--Savoia was 6 m. e. of present Ramah
+SHOWLOW--22 m. s. of Snowflake
+SHUMWAY--ward on Silver creek, 7 m. s. of Snowflake
+Simonsville--was mill location, 6 m. nw. of St. Thomas
+Smithville, PIMA--6 m. nw. of Thatcher, once St. Joseph Stake hdqrs.
+SNOWFLAKE--Snowflake Stake hdqrs., 30 m. s. of Holbrook
+SNOWFLAKE STAKE--embraces practically Navajo County
+Soap Creek (Springs)--on Mormon road, 16 m. sw. of Lee's Ferry
+SOLOMONVILLE--e. end of Gila Valley
+SPRINGERVILLE--35 m. se. of St. Johns
+Stinson Valley--former name of valley in which Snowflake is located
+STONE'S FERRY, Bonelli's--Colorado r. crossing, w. of mouth of Virgin r.
+Strawberry Valley--in n. Tonto Basin
+Sulphur Springs Valley--in se. Arizona
+Sunset, Sunset Crossing--Little Colorado r. settlement, 25 m. w. of St.
+  Joseph
+Sunset Sawmill--was 7 m. s. of Mormon Dairy
+Surprise Valley--10 m. nw. of Hunt, along Surprise Creek, 27 m. nw. of
+  St. Johns
+Surprise Valley--near mouth of Kanab Canyon
+
+Taylor--was settlement across Colorado r., 3 m. w. of St. Joseph
+TAYLOR, Bagley, Walker--on Silver Creek, 3 m. s. of Snowflake
+TEMPE, San Pablo, Hayden's Ferry--9 m. e. of Phoenix
+Tenney's Camp, WOODRUFF--on Little Colorado r., 12 m. ne. of Holbrook
+THATCHER--St. Joseph Stake hdqrs., in Gila Valley
+Tonto Basin--in central Arizona
+TUBA (CITY)--on Mormon road, 60 m. se. of Lee's Ferry
+TUBAC--on Santa Cruz r., 42 m. s. of Tucson
+Turkey Tanks--about 10 m. ne. of Flagstaff
+
+Union, Omer, Amity, EAGAR--ward embraced Round Valley settlements
+Utahville, Fort Utah, LEHI, Jonesville--3 m. ne. of Mesa
+Ute Ford, Vado de los Padres, CROSSING OF THE FATHERS--on Colorado r.,
+  just n. of Arizona line
+
+Vermilion Cliffs--w. of Colorado r., extending into both Arizona and Utah
+VERNON--ward includes Concho and Hunt branches
+VIRDEN--just over New Mexico line on Gila r., 8 m. ne. of Franklin
+
+Walker, Bagley, TAYLOR--on Silver Creek, 3 m. s. of Snowflake
+Walnut Grove, RICHVILLE--18 m. s. of St. Johns on Little Colorado r.
+West Point, LOGAN--s. of Muddy r., 15 m. w. of St. Joseph, Nevada
+Whitewater--22 m. e. of Tombstone.
+Wilford--6 m. sw. of Heber, 56 m. sw. of Holbrook
+Williams Valley--in New Mexico, 36 m. s. of Luna Valley
+Willow Springs--on Mormon road, 7 m. nw. of Tuba
+Winsor, Mt. Carmel--was United Order ward in Long Valley n. of Kanab
+Winsor Castle, PIPE SPRINGS--on Mormon road, 20 m. sw. of Kanab
+WOODRUFF, Tenney's Camp--ward on Little Colorado r., 12 m. se. of
+  Holbrook
+Woolf Crossing, ranch, Beaver ranch, Lone Pine, Reidhead--10 m. s. of
+  Taylor
+Woodland, Fairview, LAKESIDE--3 m. nw. of Pinetop
+
+Zenos, Hayden, Mesaville, MESA--16 m. e. of Phoenix
+
+
+
+
+CHRONOLOGY OF LEADING EVENTS
+
+1846--Feb. 4, Chas. Shumway first to cross Mississippi in exodus from
+Nauvoo; Feb. 4, "Brooklyn" sailed from New York, with 235 L. D. S.; July
+29, arr. San Francisco; July 20, Mormon Battalion left Council Bluffs;
+Aug. 1, arr. Ft. Leavenworth; 12, left Leavenworth; 23. Col. Allen died;
+Oct. 9, 1st detachment at Santa Fe; 13, Cooke in command; Sept. 16,
+families sent to Pueblo; Oct. 19, left Sant Fe; Nov. 21, turned to west;
+28, at summit Rockies; Dec. 18, at Tucson; 22, arr. Pima villages.
+
+1847--Jan. 8, Battalion at mouth of Gila; 10, crossed Colorado r.; 29,
+arr. near San Diego; July 16, discharged; 24, Pres. Young and Utah
+pioneers reached Salt Lake Valley.
+
+1848--Jan. 24, gold discovered at Sutter's Fort, Cal.
+
+1851--June, Lyman and Rich and about 500 from Utah located San
+Bernardino, Cal.; fall, Mormons located at Tubac.
+
+1853--First missionaries in Las Vegas district.
+
+1855--May 10, 30 missionaries left Salt Lake for Las Vegas.
+
+1857--Ira Hatch and Dudley Leavitt among Paiutes; Hamblin sees Ives
+steamer "Explorer;" Sept. 11, Mountain Meadows massacre.
+
+1858--Jan., Ira Hatch sent to Muddy; Feb., Col. Kane treaty with Paiutes;
+San Bernardino vacated; spring, Hamblin to Colorado r.; first trip across
+Colorado r.
+
+1859--Oct., Hamblin to Hopi.
+
+1860--Oct., Hamblin to Hopi; Nov. 2, Geo. A. Smith, Jr., killed by
+Indians near Tuba.
+
+1862--Nov., Hamblin to Hopi.
+
+1863--Feb. 24, Arizona Territory organized from New Mexico; Mar. 18.
+Hamblin to Hopi; Pipe Springs located by Dr. J. M. Whitmore.
+
+1864--Mar., Hamblin party parleys with Navajos; Moccasin Springs settled;
+United Order established in Brigham City. Utah, by Lorenzo Snow; Oct.,
+Anson Call directed to establish Colorado r. port, Beaver Dams settled by
+Henry W. Miller; Dec. 2. Call party at site of Call's landing; 18, work
+begun at Call's Landing.
+
+1865--Jan. 8, first settlers at St. Thomas on Muddy r., settlement of St.
+Joseph on Muddy r.; settlement on Paria Creek; Dec., Muddy section
+organized as Pah-ute County, Arizona.
+
+1866--Jan. 8, Whitmore and McIntire killed by Indians near Pipe Springs;
+June 4, conference with Indians on Muddy r.; Moccasin vacated through
+Indian troubles; Nov., steamer "Esmeralda" on upper Colorado r.
+
+1867--Jan. 18, Pah-ute county claimed by Nevada; spring, floods caused
+abandonment of Beaver Dams; Oct. 1, county seat of Pah-ute moved from
+Callville to St. Thomas.
+
+1868--Feb. 10, trouble with Paiutes on Muddy r.; August 18, destructive
+fire at St. Joseph; Nov. 1, Andrew S. Gibbons and O.D. Gass started from
+Callville to Ft. Yuma by boat.
+
+1869--Feb. 8, Junction City (Rioville) established; Feb. 15, Utah
+organized Rio Virgen County, including Muddy settlements; May 29, Powell
+started first trip down Canyon; June 12, Davidson family died of thirst
+on desert near Muddy r.; June 16, Callville abandoned; August, 3 of
+Powell's men killed by Indians; 29, Powell ended trip below Canyon; Oct.,
+Hamblin at Hopi.
+
+1870--Mar., Brigham Young party visited Muddy settlements; June 14,
+settlement on Kanab Creek; Sept., Hamblin to Mt. Trumbull with J.W.
+Powell; Nov. 5, Hamblin peace talk with Navajos at Ft. Defiance; took
+Chief Tuba to Utah; Dec., determination to abandon Muddy settlements.
+
+1871--Spring, abandonment Muddy district; Pah-ute County abolished by
+Arizona Territory; Aug., Hamblin, with Powell, on second Colorado r.
+trip; Moccasin Springs re-settled; Moen Copie made mission post;
+
+1872--John D. Lee located at mouth of Paria; June 28, J.H. Beadle at
+Lee's Ferry.
+
+1873--Mar. 8, Brigham Young instructed Arizona colonists in Salt Lake;
+spring, L.W. Roundy and Hamblin at Moen Copie; May 1, H.D. Haight party
+left Utah for Little Colorado Valley; May 22, Haight party on Little
+Colorado r.; June 30, Haight party turned back.
+
+1874--Jan., Hamblin to Hopi to prevent war; Aug., Hamblin to Ft. Defiance
+on peace mission.
+
+1875--Feb. 20, Orderville established; Sept. 16, D.W. Jones exploration
+party left Salt Lake; Oct. 27, Jones party crossed Colorado r.; 30, Jas.
+S. Brown exploring party left Salt Lake; Dec. 4, Brown party at Moen
+Copie; 14, Jones party at Tucson.
+
+1876--Jan., Jones party in Mexico; Feb. 3, Little Colorado settlers left
+Salt Lake; Mar. 23, advance company at Sunset; 24-31, locations of Allen
+City, Obed, Sunset, Ballenger; 28, work commenced on St. Joseph dam;
+Apr., location of Tenney's (Woodruff) Camp, on Little Colorado r.; 17,
+United Order established on Little Colorado r.; Daniel H. Wells and party
+on Little Colorado r.; May, Boston party passed Little Colorado
+settlements; June 24, L.W. Roundy drowned in Colorado r.; 27, Obed moved
+to new location; June, D.W. Jones party returns to Utah; first L.D.S.
+settlers on Showlow Creek; July 17, exploration of Tonto Basin; 17, first
+child born in Allen City; 19, Allen City dam washed away; Aug., Lorenzo
+H. Hatch located at Savoia; Oct. 18, Pratt-Stewart part left Utah for
+Arizona; Nov. 7, Mt. Trumbull sawmill re-established near Mormon Lake;
+Dec. 23, Pratt party reached Phoenix; Dec., Harrison Pearce established
+ferry at mouth of Grand Wash; Hamblin located new route to Sunset, via
+Grand Wash.
+
+1877--Jan. 6, Jones settlement party organized at St. George by Brigham
+Young, Bunkerville located, first L.D.S. school in Arizona, at Obed; 17,
+Jones party left St. George; Mar. 6, arr. Salt River, founded Lehi; Mar.
+23, J.D. Lee executed; May 20, first Indian baptism on Salt r.; Aug.,
+Merrill company left Lehi; 29, death of Brigham Young, Hamblin at Hopi;
+Sept. 14, start of Idaho-Salt Lake party that founded Mesa; 14, Merrill
+company on San Pedro r.; Nov. 12, Arkansas L.D.S. arr. on Little Colorado
+r.; 29, Merrill party location on San Pedro r.
+
+1878--Jan., C.I. Robson and others selected Mesa location; 20, Colorado
+r. frozen over at Lee's Ferry; 22, location of Taylor on Little Colorado
+r.; 23, James Pearce first L.D.S. settler on Silver Creek; 27, Little
+Colorado Stake organized, name of Ballenger changed to Brigham City, name
+of Allen changed to St. Joseph; Feb. 5, Robson party at Fort Utah; 9,
+naming of Woodruff; 18, settlers at Forest Dale; May 15, first L.D.S.
+locations in Tonto Basin; July 21, Flake and Kartchner moved the site of
+Snowflake; Sept.-Dec., Erastus Snow and party travel in Arizona; Sept.
+27, Erastus Snow party located and named Snowflake, selected Jesse N.
+Smith as President Eastern Arizona Stake; Oct. 26, first settlers on Mesa
+townsite; Dec., re-settlement of Beaver Dams.
+
+1879--Jan. 16, arr. at Snowflake of Jesse N. Smith; Feb., L.D.S.
+explorers at Smithville on Gila r.; Mar., L.D.S. settlement in Concho;
+Apr. 8, Showlow company located at Smithville; Completion of J. W. Young
+woolen factory at Moen Copie; settlement at Shumway; first session of
+court in Apache County; Nov. 16, purchase of Barth claims at St. Johns.
+
+1880--Mar. 29, St. Johns townsite selected by Wilford Woodruff; Sept. 19,
+re-location of St. Johns townsite; Sept. 26, naming of Alpine; fall,
+re-settlement of Overton; Oct. 6, arr. at St. Johns of D. K. Udall; Nov.,
+land at Graham on Gila r. bought by Brigham City settlers; Dec.,
+settlement of Matthews on Gila r.
+
+1881--Jan., location at Graham; Mar., settlement at Curtis (Eden),
+trouble with Indians; location of Holbrook; name of Smithville changed to
+Pima.
+
+1882--Jan. 28, re-location of Holbrook townsite; June 1, N.B. Robinson
+killed by Indians, Indian troubles in mountain settlements; June 24, N.
+C. Tenney killed at St. Johns; July, establishment of first paper in
+Apache County; July 19, L.D.S. settlement at Tempe; Dec. 10, Maricopa
+Stake organized; Dec. 25, naming of Thatcher.
+
+1883--Jan. 4, location party in Mexico from St. David; 13, settlement
+of Layton; Feb. 25, establishment of St. Joseph Stake at St. David;
+spring, Forest Dale abandoned; Aug. 25, Wilford and Heber organized;
+Nov., naming of Lehi.
+
+1884--Mar., land jumping in St. Johns; Nov., Young and Grant party visit
+Yaqui Indian country.
+
+1885--Feb. 9, departure of first L.D.S. Mexican colony; Nov.-Dec., Indian
+depredations in Gila Valley; Dec. I, killing of Lorenzo and Seth Wright
+on Gila r.; Wilford abandoned.
+
+1886--Feb. 9, Andrew S. Gibbons died at St. Johns; Aug. 31, death of
+Jacob Hamblin at Pleasanton; Sept. 8, Isaac C. Haight died at Thatcher.
+
+1887--Jan. 24, first donation to Arizona temple; May 3, earthquake at St.
+David; Fredonia settled; July 24, St. Johns Stake organized; Dec. 4, C.I.
+Robson president of Maricopa Stake; Dec.18, Snowflake Stake organized.
+
+1889--Jan. 14, St. Johns Stake Academy established; 21, Snowflake Academy
+established; Apr. 2, Brigham Young Jr., and Jesse N. Smith purchased
+Little Colorado Valley lands in New York; May 11, Wham robbery, near Ft.
+Grant.
+
+1890--Feb., Great floods on Little Colorado r. and Silver Creek.
+
+1891--Feb., large damage done by Salt r. floods.
+
+1892--June 20, Lot Smith killed by Indians near Tuba City; July 3-4,
+general conference of Arizona Stakes at Pinetop; Dec. 8, Chas. L. Flake
+killed at Snowflake.
+
+1893--Feb. 19, artesian flow struck at St. David.
+
+1894--Feb. 24, C.I. Robson died at Mesa; May 10, C.R. Hakes president of
+Maricopa Stake.
+
+1898--Jan. 29, St. Joseph Stake reorganized under Andrew Kimball; May 21,
+death of Chas. Shumway; Sept. I, St. Joseph Stake Academy opened at
+Thatcher.
+
+1903--Feb., Tuba settlers sell to Indian Bureau.
+
+1904--Sept. 15, death of P.C. Merrill.
+
+1905--May I, breaking of St. Johns reservoir.
+
+1906--June 5, death of Jesse N. Smith.
+
+
+
+
+TRAGEDIES OF THE FRONTIER
+
+It is notable that few were the Mormons who have met untimely death by
+violence in the Southwest. It is believed that the following brief record
+is, very nearly, complete:
+
+George A. Smith, Jr.--Nov. 2, 1860. Killed by Navajos near Tuba City.
+
+Dr. J.M. Whitmore and Robert McIntire--Jan. 8, 1866. Killed by Navajos
+near Pipe Springs.
+
+Elijah Averett--Jan. 1866. Killed by Navajos near Paria Creek.
+Averett had been with the Capt. James Andrus expedition after the
+Whitmore-McIntire murderers and had been sent back, with a companion,
+with dispatches from about the Crossing of the Fathers. He was killed on
+this return journey and his companion wounded.
+
+Joseph Berry, Robert Berry and the latter's wife, Isabella--April 2,
+1866. Killed by Paiutes at Cedar Knoll near Short Creek, west of
+Pipe Springs. The three were in a wagon and had attempted to escape
+by running their horses across country, but the Indians cut them off.
+They fought for their lives and one dead Indian was found near their
+bodies. In the woman's body was a circle of arrows.
+
+Joseph Davidson, wife and son--June 12, 1869. Perished of thirst on
+Southern Nevada desert, in Muddy Valley section.
+
+Lorenzo W. Roundy--May 24, 1876. Drowned in Colorado River.
+
+Nathan B. Robinson--June 1, 1882. Killed by Apaches near Reidhead.
+
+Nathan C. Tenney--June 24, 1882. Unintentionally shot by Mexicans in
+course of riot at St. Johns.
+
+Jacob S. Ferrin--July 19, 1882. Killed by Apaches 12 miles east of San
+Carlos.
+
+Mrs. W.N. Fife--Sept. 11, 1884. Murdered at her home in the Sulphur
+Springs Valley. She had given a Mexican dinner and was rewarded by a shot
+in the back. A 13-year-old daughter was saved by the timely arrival of a
+Mexican employee. The murderer, only known as Jesus, was captured the
+following day by a posse of settlers and, after full determination of
+guilt, was hanged to a tree. The murderer's skull now is in possession of
+Dr. Ezra Rich of Ogden, Utah.
+
+Lorenzo and Seth Wright--Dec. 1, 1885. Ambushed by Apaches in Gila
+Valley.
+
+Frank Thurston--May 23, 1886. Killed by Apaches six miles west of Pima.
+
+Lot Smith--June 20, 1892. Killed by Navajos near Tuba.
+
+Chas. L. Flake--Dec. 8, 1892. Killed by fugitive criminal at Snowflake.
+
+Horatio Merrill and 14-year-old daughter, Eliza--Dec. 3, 1895. Killed by
+Apaches at Ash Springs, 30 miles east of Pima. This crime has been
+charged to the infamous Apache Kid.
+
+Isaac Benj. Jones--May 12, 1897. Killed at El Dorado Canyon, near the
+Colorado River. While freighting ore to a mill, he was ambushed and shot
+from his wagon by a Paiute, Avote, who murdered several other whites
+before being run down and killed by Indians on Cottonwood Island, where
+he had taken refuge.
+
+John Bleak--Jan. 26, 1899. Killed by Mexicans, near Hackberry, Mohave
+County. The body was found with many knife thrusts, with indications of a
+desperate resistance of two assailants.
+
+Frank Lesueur and Augustus Andrew Gibbons--Mar. 27, 1900. Killed by
+outlaws near Navajo, eastern Apache County. They had been deserted by six
+Mexican members of a posse trailing American cattle thieves, who were
+fleeing northward from near St. Johns, and were ambushed in a mountain
+canyon. Lesueur was killed instantly by a shot in the forehead and
+Gibbons, already shot through the body, was killed by a shot in the head
+at very short range. The murderers were not apprehended.
+
+Wm. T. Maxwell--1901. Killed by outlaws near Nutrioso. He was the son of
+a Mormon Battalion member.
+
+Wm. W. Berry--Dec. 22, 1903. Murdered in Tonto Basin. John and Zach
+Booth, goat owners, were arrested for the crime. The latter was hanged
+and the former released after disagreement of the jury. The crime also
+embraced the murder of a 16-year-old boy, Juan Vigil, son of a herder.
+Berry at the time was in charge of a band of sheep.
+
+Hyrum Smith Peterson--Nov. 12, 1913. Killed near Mesa. Peterson, city
+marshal, was shot down by thieves whom he was trying to arrest.
+
+Frank McBride and Martin Kempton--Feb. 10, 1918. Killed 60 miles west of
+Pima. McBride was sheriff of Graham County and Kempton was deputy. The
+two sought arrest of the Powers brothers and Sisson, draft evaders, who
+were in a cabin in the Galiuro Mountains. With them was killed another
+deputy, Kane Wootan. In a following special session of the Legislature,
+the families of the three were given $17,500, to be invested for their
+benefit.
+
+
+[Illustration: KILLED BY INDIANS
+1--Geo. A. Smith, Jr.                      2--Dr. Jas. M. Whitmore
+3--Seth Wright        4--Jacob Ferrin      5--Eliza Merrill
+6--Diana Davis Fife                        7--Lorenzo Wright]
+
+[Illustration: KILLED BY OUTLAWS
+1--Nathan C. Tenney     2--Chas. L. Flake        3--Frank Lesueur
+4--Augustus Andrew Gibbons     5--Wm. Wiley Berry
+6--Hyrum S. Peterson    7--R. Franklin McBride   8--Martin Kempton]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+See Chronology, Mormon Settlement Place Names
+
+A
+
+Adair
+  Named for early resident
+Adair, Samuel N.
+  Photo.
+Adair, Wesley
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Agriculture
+  Mormon pioneers in,
+  first in N. Ariz.
+Allen, Lt.-Col. Jas.
+  Commander Battalion,
+  died
+Allen, Rufus C.
+  Battalion member,
+  to S. America,
+  in Las Vegas section
+Allen, W.C.
+  Heads L. Colorado party,
+  photo.
+Alma
+  Est.
+Allred, Mrs. R.W.
+  With husband on Battalion march,
+  photo.
+Allred, Reuben W.
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Alpine
+  Burial place of Jacob Hamblin,
+  est.
+Ancient Races
+  Canal at Mesa,
+  in Arizona,
+  canals of,
+  in Gila Valley
+Andrus, Capt. Jas.
+  Led party against Indians
+Apaches
+  Encroachments on Forest Dale,
+  attack on Col. Carr's command,
+  attack on Camp Apache,
+  experiences with in Gila Valley,
+  Chiricahua outbreaks,
+  murders in Gila Valley
+Arkansas Immigrants
+  At Taylor,
+  on L. Colorado
+Artesian Water
+  At St. David,
+  wells in Gila Valley
+Asay, Joseph
+  Aids Powell exp.
+Atlantic & Pacific R.R.
+  Land grant
+
+B
+
+Ballenger, Jesse O.
+  Heads L. Colorado settlement
+Ballenger's Camp (Brigham City)
+  Est.
+Banta, A.F.
+  Arizona pioneer
+Barbenceta
+  Navajo Chief
+Barrus, Lt. Ruel
+  Battalion officer at San Luis Rey
+Barth, Sol
+  On L. Colorado
+Bartlett, John R.
+  At Tubac,
+  in Texas
+Bass, Willis W.
+  Grand Canyon guide
+Beadle, J.H.
+  Visit to Lonely Dell and J. D. Lee
+Beale, E.F.
+  At San Pascual,
+  camel survey, carried dispatches east,
+  advised Washington of discovery of gold
+Beaver Dams--Early occupation,
+  settlement
+Beebe, Nelson P.--Leader of Arkansas party
+Bees--First in Utah
+Bellamy, Edward--Study of United Order
+Bennett, Capt. Frank F.--In great Navajo council
+Berardo--At Horsehead Crossing
+Berry, Mrs. Rachael--State legislator
+Berry, Wm. Wiley--Killed by outlaws, photo.
+Bibliography
+Biggs, Thos.--Lehi settler,
+  photo.
+Bigler, Henry W.--At gold discovery,
+  photo.
+Bluewater N. M--Settlement
+Blythe, John L.--Launched boat at Lee's Ferry,
+  at Moen Copie,
+  at Le Roux Spring,
+  photo.
+Bonelli, Daniel--Early ferryman,
+  photo.
+Boston Party--In L. Cotorado Valley
+Boyle, Henry G.--Battalion member,
+  outlined Mormon road,
+  first president S. States Mission,
+  photo.
+Brannan, Samuel--Head of "Brooklyn" exp.,
+  Wyoming conference with Brigham Young,
+  died in Mexico
+Brigham City, Ariz.--Est.,
+  naming,
+  abandonment,
+  photo. of old fort
+Brigham City, Utah--Experiences in United Order
+Brinkerhoff, Hyrum--Muddy r. and Gila v. pioneer,
+  photo.
+Brinkerhoff, Margaret--Muddy r. and Gila v. pioneer,
+  photo.
+Brizzee, H. W.--Battalion member,
+  in Arizona,
+  photo.
+"Brooklyn"--Mormon immigrant ship
+Brown, Capt. Jas.--Led at Pueblo, Colo.,
+  battalion officer,
+  arr. Salt Lake, to Cal. for pay
+Brown, Jas. S.--On Muddy r.,
+  at Cal. gold discovery,
+  head of 1875 scouting party,
+  battalion member,
+  photo.
+Bryce--Est.
+Bryce, Ebenezer--Early Gila settler,
+  photo.
+Bushman, John V.--N. E. Ariz, settler,
+  photo.
+
+C
+
+Call, Anson--Founded Callville,
+  photo.
+Callville--Port on Colorado r.,
+  est.,
+  abandonment,
+  county seat of Pah-ute Co.
+Camels--Brought by Beale survey
+Campbell, Gov. T. E.--Assistance in work,
+  circumtoured Grand Canyon,
+  Prest. League of the Southwest
+Cannon, Angus M.--At Callville,
+  on Colorado r.
+Cannon, David H.--Baptism of Shivwits at St. George,
+  photo.
+Carson, Kit--Guide of Kearny exp.,
+  carried dispatches east,
+  campaign against Navajo
+Carson Valley, Nev.--Settled by Mormons
+Casa Grande--Ancient ruin
+Cataract Canyon--Home of Hava-supai,
+  entered by Hamblin,
+  by Garces,
+  by Ives
+Central--Est.
+Chemehuevis Indians--War band in Muddy r. district
+Chronology
+Chuichupa, Colonia--Mexican settlement
+Claridge, Rebecca--Photo
+Claridge, Samuel H.--Muddy and Gila r. pioneer, photo.
+Cluff, Benjamin--At Las Vegas
+Coal--Dug at San Diego by G. W. Sirrine
+Cocheron, Augusta Joyce--Description of Yerba Buena
+Cocopah Indians--Colorado r. deck hands
+Colorado City--Est. on site of Yuma
+Colorado River
+  Reached by Battalion,
+  watershed embraced within State of Deseret,
+  ferries of,
+  frozen over,
+  transportation,
+  efforts to utilize water and power, drainage area, flow, water storage,
+navigation, watershed now barred for navigation
+Colter, J. G. H--At Round Valley
+Concho
+  Hard living conditions,
+  est.,
+  naming
+Cooke, Lt.-Col. P. St. George
+  Commander Mormon Battalion,
+  congratulatory order,
+  story of march,
+  left Santa Fe,
+  crossed Colorado r.,
+  led Johnston's cavalry to Utah, resignation,
+  photo.
+Cooley, C. E.--Won Showlow in card game, sold
+Cooperative Stores--Est. in many communities
+Co-quap--Paiute killed at St. Thomas
+Cotton--Raised by Maricopas,
+  Pima long-staple
+Crismon, Chas.--At San Bernardino,
+  took first bees to Utah,
+  at founding of Mesa,
+  photo.
+Crosby, Geo. H. Sr.--Photo.
+Crosby, Jesse W.--In re-settlement of Muddy
+Crosby, Taylor--At Hopi
+Crossing of the Fathers--Passed by Escalante and Dominguez,
+  Hamblin's was first crossing by white men since Spanish days,
+  early use of,
+  photo.
+Curtis--Est.
+Curtis, Elizabeth Hanks--Photo., in Gila Valley
+Curtis, Josephine--Photo., in Gila Valley
+Curtis, Martha--Photo., in Gila Valley
+Curtis, Moses M.
+  Gila Valley pioneer,
+  at Eden
+Curtis, Virginia--Photo., in Gila Valley
+Cushing, Frank H.--Southwestern ethnologist
+Cutler, R. J.
+  Muddy settler,
+  Rep. Pah-ute Co. in Ariz. 3d and 4th legislatures,
+  clerk Rio Virgen Co.
+
+D
+Davidson, Jas.--Death of family of thirst
+Davis, Capt. Daniel C.--Battalion officer
+Davis, Durias--Visit to Hopi
+Day, Henry--In charge at Moen Copie
+Defiance, Fort
+  Est.,
+  great council with Navajo,
+  settlement by Hamblin of Indian troubles
+Dellenbaugh, F. S.
+  Estimate of Mormon settlements,
+  wrote of Navajo council
+Deseret
+  State of,
+  map,
+  origin of name,
+  boundaries,
+  organization, legislature
+Diaz, Colonia--Mexican settlement
+Dixie, Utah's--Brigham Young in,
+  ref. to
+Dobson, Thos. F.--First settler at Fredonia
+Dodge, Enoch--Fight with Navajos
+Dominguez and Escalante--On Spanish Trail
+Dublan, Colonia--Mexican settlement
+Dykes, Geo. P.--Battalion officer,
+  photo.,
+  death
+
+E
+
+Eagar--Est.
+Earthquake--At St. David
+Eastern Arizona Stake--Est.
+Eden--Est.
+Ehrenberg--Military depot
+El Dorado Canyon--At Cottonwood Island
+Ellsworth, Edmund--Salt Lake Pioneer
+Emory, W. H.--With Kearny exp.
+Engelhardt, Father Z.--Estimate of Battalion members
+Escalante-Dominguez--On Spanish Trail,
+  at Crossing of the Fathers
+"Explorer"--Ives' steamboat on Colorado r.,
+  photo.
+
+F
+
+Farish, Thos. E.--Former Arizona Historian
+Ferrin, Jacob S.--Killed by Apaches,
+  photo.
+Fife, Diana Davis--Killed by Indians,
+  photo.
+Fife, J. D.--Sulphur Springs Valley pioneer,
+  photo.
+Fife, Wm. N.--Sulphur Springs Valley pioneer,
+  photo.
+Fish, Joseph--Early historian,
+  photo.
+Flagstaff--Naming of
+Flake, Chas. L.--Killed by outlaw,
+  photo.
+Flake, Wm. J.--Land purchases at Snowflake,
+  at Showlow,
+  at Concho,
+  at Springerville,
+  at Nutrioso,
+  photo.
+Follett, Wm. A.--Battalion member,
+  to Arizona,
+  photo.
+Foote, Jos. Warren--At St. Joseph, Nevada
+Forest Dale--Est.,
+  Indian encroachments,
+  abandonment,
+  claims for damages
+Foreword
+Foutz, Joseph--Photo.
+Franklin--Est.
+Fredonia--Visited by Gov. Campbell,
+  est.,
+  naming,
+  description of,
+  view
+Fremont, John C.--Dissension in American forces,
+  arrest and trial,
+  on Spanish Trail
+
+G
+
+Garces, Father Francisco--Early Spanish priest,
+  at Hopi
+Garcia, Colonia--Mexican settlement
+Gass, Octavius D.--Represented Mohave Co. in 2d legislature
+  and Pah-ute Co. in 3d and 4th Legislatures,
+  in 5th Legislature,
+  floated down Colorado r.
+Genoa--First American settlement in Nevada
+Gibbons, Andrew S.--Investigated Welsh legend,
+  took Hopi visitors home,
+  shown sacred stone of Hopi,
+  Salt Lake Pioneer,
+  interpreter on Muddy,
+  trip down Colorado r.,
+  in Ariz. Legislature from Pah-ute Co.,
+  photo.
+Gibbons, Mrs. A. S--Photo.
+Gibbons, Augustus A.--Killed by Indians,
+  photo.
+Gibbons, Richard--At Hopi village
+Gibbons, Wm. H.--At Hopi village
+Gila River--Barge made by Battalion,
+  route of Battalion,
+  land erosion,
+  trouble with mill tailings
+Gold--Battalion party present at discovery
+Goodwin, Camp--In Gila Valley,
+  abandonment
+Graham--Est.
+Graham County--Est.
+Grand Canyon--Visited by Escalante-Dominguez,
+  circumtoured by Hamblin,
+  by Gov. Campbell,
+  expl. by Powell,
+  to be bridged
+Grand Falls--Haight party at,
+  view
+Grand Wash--Ferry site,
+  crossed by Hamblin
+Grant--Early name of Luna
+Grant Camp--Old and new, south of Gila
+Grant, Heber J.--Church President in, photo.,
+  visit to St. Johns
+  Mexican trips
+Greeley, Lewis--With 1863 Hamblin party
+Greer--Est.
+
+
+H
+
+Haight, Horton D.--Crossed river at Paria,
+  first attempt at Arizona colonization,
+  photo.
+Hakes, Collins R.--At San Bernardino,
+  President Maricopa Stake, at Bluewater, death,
+  photo.
+Hall, Miss S. M.--Description of Lee's Ferry,
+  of Fredonia
+Hamblin, Frederick--At Hopi,
+  at Alpine,
+  fight with bear,
+  photo.
+Hamblin, Jacob--Frontier guide,
+  missionary to Indians, entry in Muddy section,
+  Mountain Meadows massacre, saves wagon trains, photo.,
+  at Las Vegas lead mines, encounter with Ives party,
+  at Colorado r.,
+  trips to Hopi,
+  took Hopi visitors home,
+  with Powell at Shivwits council,
+  guide for Powell, council with Navajo,
+  error in date of great Navajo council,
+  took provisions to second Powell exp., visited Fort Defiance,
+  1871-2-3 trips,
+  ambassador to Navajo, in danger of death,
+  located Grand Wash road, wagon route to Sunset, guide for D. H. Wells
+  1876 party, ordained Apostle to the Lamanites,
+  moved to Arizona, death, monument inscription,
+  first Colorado r. crossing at Ute ford, 1858, crossed at Paria on raft,
+  located road to San Francisco mountains,
+  in 1862 crossed river at Ute ford, in 1863 crossed at Grand Wash
+Hamblin, Wm.--At Hopi,
+  at naming of Pipe Springs
+Hancock, Levi--Battalion poet
+Hardy's Landing--Visited by Call,
+  Callville visited by Hardy
+Harris, Llewellyn--Welsh legend
+Haskell, Thales--Investigated steamer on Colorado r.,
+  at Hopi,
+  left Hopi,
+  in Muddy district,
+  with Paiutes,
+  photo.
+Hatch, Ira--With Paiutes,
+  with Hopi,
+  at Meadows,
+  photo.
+Hatch, Lorenzo--Escape from drowning,
+  at Taylor
+Hava-supai Indians--See Cataract Canyon
+Hawkins, Wm. R.--With Powell exp.
+Hayden, C. T.--Visited by Jones party,
+  assistance to settlers,
+  est. Hayden's Ferry
+Head, W. S.--Post trader at Verde
+Heaton, Jonathan--Resident of Moccasin,
+  photo, with sons
+Heber--In Mogollons,
+  in New Mexico
+Holbrook--Naming
+Holmes, Henry--Description of L. Colorado valley
+Hopi--Visited by Father Garces,
+  by Escalante,
+  by Jacob Hamblin,
+  Welsh legend, composite language,
+  snake dance, tribesmen taken to Salt Lake,
+  threw Navajos from cliff,
+  Tuba taken to Utah,
+  sacred stone,
+  southern origin
+Hortt, Henry J.--Fredonia settler
+Hubbard--Est.
+Hubbell, J. L.--Investigated Utah Indian troubles
+Hulett, Schuyler--Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Hunt--Est.
+Hunt, Capt. Jefferson--Battalion officer
+Hunt, John--Battalion member,
+  Mormon road mail carrier,
+  at Snowflake,
+  photo.
+Hunt, Marshall--Battalion member
+Hunter, Capt. Jesse B.--Battalion officer
+
+I
+
+Idaho--Agricultural settlement
+Index--To book
+Irritaba--Mohave chief
+Iverson, Alma--At LeRoux Spring
+Ives, J. C.--Colorado r. exploration
+Ivins, Anthony W.--Indian warfare,
+  crossed Colorado r. on the ice,
+  agent for Mexican lands,
+  photo.
+
+J
+
+Jenson, Andrew--Assistant Church Historian,
+  data on Callville,
+  in Muddy Valley,
+  in L. Colorado Valley,
+  at Tuba City,
+  photo.
+Johnson, B. F.--At Tempe,
+  at Nephi, death,
+  photo.
+Johnson, Warren M.--Escape from drowning,
+  photo, of Lee's Ferry home
+Johnson, W. H.--In charge of Virgin salt mines
+Johnston, Capt. A. R.--Killed at San Pascual
+Johnston, Gen. A. S.--Exp. to Utah
+Johnston, Capt. Geo. A.--Ferried Beale camel exp. across river,
+  offered to handle Salt Lake freight
+Johnston, W.J.--Batt. member,
+  gold disc.,
+  photo.
+Jones, D.W.--First exp. to Mexico,
+  foundation of Lehi,
+  death,
+  photos.
+Jones, Nathaniel V.--Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Jonesville--See Lehi
+Jones, Wiley C.--With Jones party,
+  photo.
+Juarez, Colonia--Mexican settlement
+Judd, Hyrum--Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Judd, Zadok K.--Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Junction City--On Colorado r.
+
+K
+
+Kaibab Plateau--Visited by Powell,
+  view
+Kanab--Passed in 1920 by Gov. Campbell,
+  Powell exploration at,
+  est.
+Kane, Col. Thos. L.--Introduction to Tyler history,
+  conference with Paiutes
+Kapurats--Paiute name for Maj. Powell
+Kearny, Gen. S.W.--In command California invasion
+Kempton, Martin--Killed by outlaws,
+  photo.
+Kimball, Andrew--Prest. St. Joseph Stake,
+  photo.
+Kimball, Heber C.--Chief Justice of Deseret
+Klineman, Conrad--Salt Lake Pioneer
+
+L
+
+Laguna Dam--Bars Colorado navigation
+Lake, George--Leader on L. Colorado,
+  to Gila Valley,
+  photo.
+Land Grants--Atlantic & Pacific,
+  Reavis fraud,
+  Texas-Pacific claim
+Las Vegas, Nev.--Visited by P.P. Pratt,
+  station on Mormon road,
+  detail of missionaries,
+  visited by Call
+Las Vegas County--Creation asked
+"Latter-day Saints"--Designation of
+Layton--Est.
+Layton, Christ.--Battalion member,
+  instructions to,
+  biography,
+  photo.
+Layton, Elizabeth--Photo.
+Lead mines--In Nevada
+League of the Southwest--Water storage plans
+Leavitt, Dudley--Smelted lead ore in Nevada,
+  at Hopi,
+  at naming of Pipe Springs
+LeBaron, David T.--Tempe settler
+Lee, John D.--Location on Paria,
+  messenger for Battalion,
+  residence on Canyon,
+  capture, in Utah, execution,
+  experience of wife with Indians,
+  photo, of home at Moen Avi
+Lee's Ferry--Visited by Gov. Campbell,
+  passage of Roundy party,
+  early crossings by Hamblin,
+  Powell at,
+  John D. Lee's residence at,
+  ferry bought by Church,
+  description of,
+  river frozen,
+  Stanton exp., main route into Arizona
+Lehi--Map,
+  est.,
+  floods,
+  arr. of Mesa party
+Leithead, Jas.
+  In charge of Muddy settlements,
+  built boat,
+  supplied Powell exp.
+Lemhi, Fort
+  Early settlement in Idaho
+LeRoux, Antoine
+  Guide to Battalion,
+  Arizona places named for,
+  guide for Bartlett party
+LeRoux Springs
+  History
+Lesueur, Frank
+  Killed by outlaws,
+  photo.
+Lesueur, Jas. W.
+  President Maricopa Stake,
+  photo.
+Lesueur, John T.
+  President Maricopa Stake,
+  photo.
+Lewis, Samuel
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+List of Illustrations
+Little Colorado River
+  Irrigation difficulties,
+  floods,
+  view of crossing
+Little Colorado Stake
+  Org.
+Little Colorado Valley
+  Haight exp.,
+  settlement,
+  Arizona experiences,
+  drought
+Littlefield
+  Northwestern Arizona settlement,
+  visited by Gov. Campbell
+Lonely Dell
+  Lee's name for mouth of Paria
+Los Angeles
+  Battalion experiences,
+  Standage's description of,
+  name,
+  muster-out of Battalion
+Los Muertos
+  Ancient city
+Luna
+  Est.
+Lund, A.H.
+  Church Historian
+Lund, A. Wm.
+  Church Librarian
+Lyman, Amasa M.
+  San Bernardino experiences,
+  in Arizona,
+  with Col. Kane on Muddy r.
+Lyman, Francis M.
+  Exp. near St. Johns,
+  at St. David
+
+M
+
+Macdonald
+  Est.
+Macdonald, A.F.
+  Director of cattle company at Pipe Springs,
+  President Maricopa Stake,
+  transfer to Mexico,
+  death,
+  named St. David,
+  in Mexico,
+  photo.
+Malaria
+  At Obed,
+  on San Pedro and Gila
+Maps
+  State of Deseret,
+  Pah-ute County,
+  Northeastern Arizona,
+  Plat of Lehi,
+  Prehistoric canals,
+  Southeastern Arizona,
+  Arizona and Roads
+Maricopa Indians
+Maricopa Stake
+  Org.
+Matthews
+  Est.
+Maxwell, Wm. B.
+  Battalion member,
+  at Moccasin Springs,
+  photo.
+Mazatzal City
+  Tonto Basin settlement
+McBride, R. Franklin
+  Killed by outlaws,
+  photo.
+McClellan, Almeda
+  Photo.
+McClellan, Wm. C.
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+McIntire, Robert
+  Killed by Indians
+McIntyre, Wm.
+  Battalion surgeon
+McConnell, Jehiel
+  At Hopi,
+McMurrin, Jos. W.
+  At LeRoux Spring,
+  photo.
+Meadows
+  Purchase,
+  occupied
+Meeden, C.V.
+  Early Colorado r. pilot
+Merrill, Eliza
+  Killed by Indians,
+  photo.
+Merrill, Philemon C.
+  Adjutant Battalion,
+  custodian of Utah stone, pioneer on San Pedro,
+  photos.,
+  in Lehi party,
+  separation from Jones,
+  est. of St. David
+Mesa
+  Org. of "The Mesa Union",
+  est.,
+  canal digging,
+  building of first house,
+  civic est., naming
+Mesquite
+  Settlement on Virgin
+Mexico
+  Jones party trip,
+  exploration for settlement,
+  exploration,
+  est. of colonies,
+  flight from,
+  repopulation
+Mill Point
+  Est. on Muddy r.
+Miller, Henry W.
+  At Beaver Dams,
+  photo.
+Miller, Jacob
+  Sec'y to Haight exp.,
+  photo.
+Milligan, Fort
+  Est.
+Moabi
+  Near Moen Copie
+Moccasin Springs
+  Occupation of,
+  view
+Moen Copie
+  Visited by Hamblin,
+  Blythe location,
+  mission post, Indian experiences,
+  land bought by government,
+  view
+Mohave County
+  Embraced Nevada point
+Mohave, Fort
+  Est.
+Moody, Elizabeth
+  Photo.
+Moody, John M.
+  First settler of Thatcher,
+  photo.
+Morelos, Colonia
+  Sonora settlement
+Mormon Battalion
+  Reason for formation,
+  muster at Council Bluffs,
+  at San Bernardino ranch,
+  arr. Tucson,
+  arr. Pima villages,
+  left San Bernardino,
+  experiences,
+  muster-out,
+  gold discovery
+Mormon Battalion Monument
+  Arizona contributes,
+  photo.
+Mormon Dairy
+  Est.
+Mormon Road
+  Broken by Boyle party,
+  early travel,
+  mail service,
+  stations on
+Moroni, Fort
+  Est.,
+  use by John W. Young,
+  named Fort Rickerson,
+  photos.
+Mountain Meadows
+  Massacre,
+  Hamblin resident in
+Mount Trumbull
+  Powell and Hamblin at Indian council,
+  sawmill
+Mowrey, Harley
+  Last Battalion survivor
+Muddy Valley
+  Settlement,
+  population,
+  Arizona Legislature protested separation,
+  return of settlers
+Munk, Dr. J. A.
+  Library of Arizoniana
+
+N
+
+Naraguts
+  Paiute guide
+Navajo Indians
+  Fight near Pipe Springs,
+  stole stock in Utah, great council with Powell and Hamblin,
+  captured by Hopi, agreement to remain south of river,
+  killing of three tribesmen in Utah
+Nephi
+  Est.
+Nevada
+  First American settlement by Mormons,
+  jurisdiction over Muddy district,
+  old mapping,
+  Muddy abandoned,
+  protest against separation from Arizona
+New Hope
+  Early California colony
+Northeastern Arizona
+  Map
+Nutrioso
+  Est.
+Nuttall, L. John
+  Exper. in crossing Colorado r.
+
+O
+
+Oaxaca, Colonia
+  Sonora settlement
+Obed
+  Est.
+  abandonment
+Ogden
+  Site bought with Battalion pay
+Onate, Juan de
+  First New Mexican governor
+Orderville
+  United Order settlement
+Osborn's Cave
+  In Muddy section
+Overton
+  Muddy settlement
+
+P
+
+Pace, Lt. Jas.
+  Photo.,
+  Battalion officer,
+  brought wheat to Utah,
+  at Thatcher
+Pace, Wilson D.
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Pace, W. W.
+  At Nutrioso
+Pacheco, Colonia
+  Mexican settlement
+Pah-ute
+  Early Arizona county,
+  map,
+  created by Arizona Legislature,
+  boundaries,
+  county seat,
+  abandoned by Arizona,
+  representation in Legislature
+Paiutes
+  Danger from,
+  missionary efforts,
+  threatened Muddy settlers
+Paria
+  Visited by Escalante exp.,
+  settlement near mouth,
+  photo.,
+  view of ranch and ferry
+Parke, Lt. A. J.
+  Survey party
+Patrick, H. R.
+  Map of ancient canals
+Pearce, Harrison
+  Photo.
+Pearce, James
+  At Hopi,
+  brought Indians to be baptized,
+  at Taylor,
+  photo.
+Pearce's Ferry
+  Crossed by Hamblin,
+  at Grand Wash
+Perkins, Jesse N.
+  Head of Mesa colony
+Peterson, Hyrum S.
+  Killed by outlaws,
+  photo.
+Pettegrew, "Father" David
+  Advice to Battalion
+Phoenix
+  Visited by Jones party,
+  by Pratt-Trejo exp.,
+  by Lehi settlers
+Pima
+  Est.
+Pima Indians
+  Visited by Battalion
+Pinedale
+  Est.
+Pinetop
+  Est.
+  Church conference,
+  view
+Pipe Springs
+  Settlement and naming,
+  first telegraph office in Arizona,
+  view
+Place Names of the Southwest
+Pleasanton, N. M
+  Settlement,
+  death of Hamblin
+Pleasant Valley
+  War
+Polhamus, Isaac
+  Early Colorado r. pilot
+Pomeroy, Francis M.
+  Salt Lake Pioneer,
+  at founding of Mesa,
+  photo.
+Population
+  Latter-day Saints in Arizona
+Porter, Sanford
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Powell, Maj. J. W.
+  Visited Paiutes,
+  met Hamblin,
+  in council with Navajo,
+  first exp. reached mouth of Paria,
+  to Moqui towns,
+  to Salt Lake,
+  explorations from Paria,
+  at Kanab Wash,
+  Mormon assistance at end of first voyage
+Pratt, Helaman
+  Capt. of Muddy militia 109, in second southern exp.,
+  photos.
+Prescott
+  Founded
+Prows, Wm. C.
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Pueblo
+  First Anglo-Saxon settlement in Colorado,
+  Company ordered to winter at,
+  Battalion sick sent to,
+  departure of detachment
+Pulsipher, David
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+
+R
+
+Railroads
+  Construction northern Arizona,
+  Atlantic & Pacific grant,
+  construction through Gila Valley
+Ramah, N.M.
+  Settlement
+Ramsey, Ralph
+  Utah artist,
+  moved to Ariz.
+Reidhead
+  Est.
+Reidhead, John
+  Woodruff settler
+Richards, Joseph H.
+  L. Colorado settler,
+  photos.
+Richards, Mary
+  Photos.
+Rioville
+  At mouth of Virgin
+Roberts, B. H.
+  Story of Battalion,
+  Utah historian
+Robinson, Nathan B.
+  Killed by Apaches,
+  photo.
+Robson, Chas. I.
+  At founding of Mesa,
+  President Maricopa Stake,
+  death,
+  photo.
+Rogers, Henry C.
+  In Lehi party,
+  Church officer,
+  photo.
+Rogers, J.K.
+  Leader in Gila settlement,
+  photo.
+Rogers, Josephine Wall
+  Photo.
+Rogers, Samuel H.
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Roundy, Lorenzo W.
+  Led party across Colorado r.,
+  drowned,
+  photo.
+Rusling, Gen. J.F.
+  Recommended use of Colorado r. as waterway
+
+S
+
+Safford
+  Est.,
+  outlawry,
+  first school house photo.
+Safford, Gov. A. P. K.
+  At Tombstone,
+  on Gila
+Salt
+  From Virgin r. mines,
+  description of deposit,
+  Zuni salt lake,
+  Hopi source of supply,
+  central Arizona deposits
+Salt Lake Pioneers
+  Later Arizonans
+Salt River Valley
+  Visited by Jones party,
+  Trejo description
+San Bernardino (Cal.)
+  Settlement,
+  est.,
+  abandonment,
+  Bartlett account of purchase
+San Bernardino Ranch
+  Reached by Battalion,
+  Standage reference
+San Diego
+  On route of Battalion,
+  Standage reference to,
+  arr. Kearny exp.,
+  post of Battalion company,
+  Battalion experiences
+San Francisco
+  Arr. "Brooklyn" party
+San Jose, Colonia
+  Sonora settlement
+San Pedro Valley
+  Battalion march,
+  Standage description,
+  settlement
+Santa Cruz Valley
+  Earliest Spanish settlement
+Santa Fe
+  On Battalion route
+San Xavier
+  Early mission in southern Arizona
+Savoia (N.M.)
+  Est.
+Savoietta (N.M.)
+  Est.
+Scanlon's Ferry
+  View
+Schools
+  Gila Normal College,
+  Thatcher,
+  photo.,
+  St. Johns Academy, St. Johns,
+  photo.,
+  Snowflake Academy,
+  photos, (old and new),
+  Academy at Colonia Juarez
+Shivwits Indians
+  Whole tribe baptized,
+  in council with Powell and Hamblin,
+  photo.
+Showlow
+  Won in a card game,
+  settlement
+Shumway
+  Est.
+  view
+Shumway, Chas.
+  Salt Lake Pioneer,
+  leader in Nauvoo exodus,
+  resident of Shumway, death,
+  photo.
+Simonsville
+  Muddy settlement
+Sirrine, Geo. W.
+  Brooklyn pioneer,
+  at San Bernardino, carried gold payment,
+  developed coal,
+  at founding of Mesa,
+  Church officer,
+  photo.
+Skinner, G.W.
+  Gila River pioneer
+Smallpox
+  Brought to L. Colorado
+Smith, Lt. A.J.
+  Battalion officer,
+  army record
+Smith, Azariah
+  Gold discoverer,
+  photo.
+Smith, Geo. A.
+  Account of Tuba's visit,
+  in Arizona,
+  on the Muddy
+Smith, Geo. A. Jr.
+  Killed by Navajos,
+  photo.
+Smith, J.E.
+  With Hamblin to Navajo
+Smith, Jedediah
+  Early trapper
+Smith, Jesse N.
+  Location at Snowflake,
+  President of Eastern Arizona and Snowflake Stakes,
+  railroad contracts,
+  photo.
+Smith, Joseph
+  Assassination of,
+  photo.
+Smith, Joseph F.
+  At St. David,
+  photo.
+Smith, Lot
+  Battalion member,
+  remained in California,
+  head of Sunset party,
+  killed by Indians,
+  President of L. Colorado Stake,
+  photos.
+Smith, Samuel F.
+  President Snowflake Stake,
+  photo.
+Smith, Thos. S.
+  In charge of first Muddy migration
+Smithville
+  Est.
+Smoot, W.C.A.
+  Salt Lake and Las Vegas Pioneer
+Snow, Erastus
+  Visited Arizona settlements,
+  named Fredonia,
+  conference with Paiutes,
+  promoted cotton factory at St. George,
+  selected site of Snowflake,
+  photo.
+Snow, Erastus B.
+  Description of ice bridge at Lee's Ferry
+Snow, LeRoi C.
+  Assistance in this work
+Snow, Lorenzo
+  Reference to Brannan,
+  founded United Order at Brigham City, Utah,
+  photo.
+Snowflake
+  Cooperative store,
+  est., naming, early experiences,
+  photos, of Academy
+Snowflake Stake
+  Est.
+Solomon, I.E.
+  In Gila Valley
+Solomon, W.H.
+  Clerk of 1874 Blythe exp.
+Southeastern Arizona
+  Map
+Spaneshanks
+  Navajo Chief
+Spanish Trail
+  Route of,
+  map,
+  use of eastern end
+Springerville
+  Est.
+Standage, Henry
+  Journal of Battalion march,
+  Battalion experiences,
+  settler at Alma,
+  photo.
+Stanislaus City
+  Early California colony
+Stanton Expedition
+  Down Colorado r.
+Steele, Geo.
+  Battalion member,
+  photo.
+Steele, John
+  Battalion member,
+  in Arizona,
+  photo.
+Stephens, Alexander
+  Gold discoverer
+Stewart, Isaac J.
+  Photo.
+Stewart, Jas. Z.
+  In southern Arizona,
+  photos.
+Stewart, Levi
+  At Moccasin Springs
+Stoneman, Lt. Geo.
+  Battalion quartermaster,
+  recognition of service,
+  record of
+Stone's Ferry
+  On Colorado r.
+St. David
+  Est.
+St. George
+  Cotton factory,
+  claimed by Arizona
+St. Johns
+  Made county seat of Apache Co.,
+  est.,
+  Barth ownership,
+  sold to Mormons,
+  townsite est.,
+  first newspaper,
+  street battle,
+  killing of Nathan C. Tenney,
+  land title dispute,
+  irrigation difficulties,
+  state aids dam construction,
+  grasshopper plague,
+  photo. first school,
+  photo. Stake Academy,
+  early view
+St. Johns Stake
+  Est.
+St. Joseph (Nev.)
+  Mormon settlement,
+  damaged by fire
+St. Joseph (Ariz.)
+  Formerly Allen's Camp,
+  naming,
+  est.,
+  view of dam,
+  photo. of pioneer group
+St. Joseph Stake
+  Creation,
+St. Thomas (Nev.)
+  Est.
+Summary of Subjects
+Sunset
+  Est.
+  abandonment
+Sutter's Fort
+  Gold disc.
+  Batt. members at
+
+T
+
+Taylor
+  On L. Colorado
+  est.
+  abandoned
+Taylor
+  On Silver Creek,
+  est.
+Taylor, President John
+  Introduction to Tyler's Battalion history,
+  directed est. of Arizona Stakes,
+  visited Arizona,
+  death,
+  Mexican trip,
+  photo.
+Teeples, Wm. R.
+  Photo.
+  photo, of home
+Teeples, Mrs. W.R.
+  Frontier experiences,
+  photo.
+Telegraph
+  First in Arizona
+Tempe
+  Johnson party arr.,
+  removal to Nephi
+Temple
+  Arizona,
+  at Mesa,
+  other Temples of the Church,
+  photo.
+Tenney, Ammon M.
+  First visit to Hopi,
+  fight with Navajos,
+  in Powell party,
+  account of great council with Indians,
+  with Hamblin to Oraibi,
+  at Las Vegas,
+  on site of Woodruff,
+  purchase of St. Johns,
+  at Zuni,
+  railroad contracts,
+  with first Jones exp.
+  photo.
+Tenney, Nathan C.
+  Fight with Navajos,
+  killed at St. Johns,
+  photo.
+Terry, George
+  In second Mexican exp.,
+  photo.
+Thatcher, Moses
+  In Mexico
+Thatcher
+  Est.
+  photo, normal college
+Thomas, Camp
+  In Gila Valley
+Thompson, Samuel
+  Battalion member
+  photo.
+Thurston, Frank
+  Killed by Apaches
+To-ish-obe
+  Paiute Chief
+Tombstone
+  Mining history
+Tonto Basin
+  Settlement
+  abandonment authorized
+Tragedies of the Frontier
+  List of Latter-day Saints killed by Indians or outlaws
+Trejo, M. G.
+  Spanish missionary
+  photo.
+Trueworthy, Thos. E.
+  Early Colorado r. pilot
+  steamboat trip up Colorado r.
+Trumbull, Mount
+  Indian council
+  sawmill to Arizona
+Tuba
+  Oraibi chief, with Hamblin to Utah
+  shows sacred stone
+  returns to Oraibi
+  at Tuba City
+Tuba City
+  Est.
+  woolen factory
+  killing of Lot Smith
+  sold to government
+Tubac
+  Map
+  Mormon colony
+  visited by second Mexican exp.
+Tucson
+  Settlement
+  taking of by Battalion
+  Standage reference
+Tumacacori
+  Est. of mission
+Tyler, Daniel
+  Battalion history
+Tyler, Frank N.
+  Photo.
+
+U
+
+Udall, D. K.
+  Arr. at St. Johns
+  President St. Johns Stake
+  photo, first home
+  photo.
+United Order
+  Est. in Muddy settlements
+  development
+  not a general Church movement
+  in Lehi
+  on L. Colorado r.
+  at Woodruff
+Utah
+  Creation of Territory
+  seeks land north of Colorado r.
+Utah, Camp
+  See Lehi
+Utahville
+  See Lehi
+Ute Ford
+  See Crossing of the Fathers
+
+V
+
+Vado de los Padres
+  See Crossing of the Fathers
+Virden
+  Est.
+Virgin River
+  Settlements on
+
+W
+
+Wallapai Indians
+  Visited Muddy Valley
+Walnut Grove
+  Settled
+Walpi
+  Hopi village, view
+Weaver, Pauline
+  Principal guide to Battalion, gold discoveries, death
+Wells, Daniel H.
+  Visited Arizona settlements
+  on L. Colorado r.
+  photo.
+Welsh
+  Legend of the Hopi
+West Point
+  Muddy settlement
+Wham robbery
+  Near Gila settlements
+Whipple
+  Expedition
+Whitmore, Dr. Jas. M.
+  At founding of Callville, killed by Indians,
+  at Pipe Springs,
+  with Anson Call on Colorado r.,
+  photo.
+Wilford
+  Mountain settlement
+Winsor, A. P.
+  At Pipe Springs
+Winsor Castle
+  Pipe Springs,
+  photo.
+Woodruff
+  Est.,
+  irrigation,
+  view
+Woodruff, Wilford
+  In Arizona,
+  in northeastern Arizona,
+  photo.
+Woods, J. A.
+  Early teacher
+Woolen Factory
+  At Tuba City,
+  photo.
+Wright Brothers
+  Killed by Apaches,
+  photos.
+Wyoming
+  First Mormon settlement
+
+Y
+
+Yerba Buena
+  Early Spanish name of San Francisco
+Young, Brigham
+  Arr. Salt Lake,
+  authorized "Brooklyn" exp.,
+  extended Church influence southward, San Bernardino colonization,
+  conception of Deseret, first governor of Deseret,
+  photo,
+  sent party to investigate Welsh legend,
+  sent Hamblin to Indians,
+  death,
+  ordained Hamblin as Apostle to the Lamanites,
+  bought Whitmore estate,
+  detailed missionaries to Las Vegas,
+  visit in 1870 to Muddy section and Paria,
+  directed first L. Colorado exp,
+  order for Blythe 1874 exp,
+  photo, with party,
+  received report of Jones party,
+  directed exploration of Sonora,
+  plans for Mexican settlement,
+  Arizona Temple idea
+Young, John R.
+  Sent to rescue missionaries
+Young, John W.
+  Led party of southern settlers,
+  at Holbrook,
+  directed occupation of LeRoux Spring,
+  Tuba City woolen factory,
+  railroad contracts
+Young, John Wm.
+  At Hopi
+Young, Joseph W.
+  Estimate of Paiutes
+Yuma Indians
+  Colorado r. deck hands
+
+Z
+
+Zodiac
+  Settlement in Texas
+Zuni Indians
+  Welsh legend
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, MORMON SETTLEMENT IN ARIZONA ***
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