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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Directions for Cookery, in its Various
+Branches, by Eliza Leslie
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches
+
+Author: Eliza Leslie
+
+Posting Date: November 15, 2011 [EBook #9624]
+Release Date: January, 2006
+First Posted: October 10, 2003
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State
+University Libraries; Steve Schulze, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY, IN ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES.
+
+BY
+
+MISS LESLIE.
+
+
+TENTH EDITION, WITH IMPROVEMENTS AND SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
+
+
+1840.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+The success of her little book entitled "Seventy-five Receipts in
+Cakes, Pastry, and Sweetmeats." has encouraged the author to
+attempt a larger and more miscellaneous work on the subject of
+cookery, comprising as far as practicable whatever is most useful
+in its various departments; and particularly adapted to the
+domestic economy of her own country. Designing it as a manual of
+American housewifery, she has avoided the insertion of any dishes
+whose ingredients cannot be procured on our side of the Atlantic,
+and which require for their preparation utensils that are rarely
+found except in Europe. Also, she has omitted every thing which
+may not, by the generality of tastes, be considered good of its
+kind, and well worth the trouble and cost of preparing.
+
+The author has spared no pains in collecting and arranging,
+perhaps the greatest number of practical and original receipts
+that have ever appeared in a similar work; flattering herself that
+she has rendered them so explicit as to be easily understood, and
+followed, even by inexperienced cooks. The directions are given as
+minutely as if each receipt was "to stand alone by itself," all
+references to others being avoided; except in some few instances
+to the one immediately preceding; it being a just cause of
+complaint that in some of the late cookery books, the reader,
+before finishing the article, is desired to search out pages and
+numbers in remote parts of the volume.
+
+In the hope that her system of cookery may be consulted with equal
+advantage by families in town and in country, by those whose
+condition makes it expedient to practise economy, and by others
+whose circumstances authorize a liberal expenditure, the author
+sends it to take its chance among the multitude of similar
+publications, satisfied that it will meet with as much success as
+it may be found to deserve,--more she has no right to expect.
+
+_Philadelphia, April 15th, 1837_.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY HINTS.
+
+
+WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
+
+We recommend to all families that they should keep in the house: a
+pair of scales, (one of the scales deep enough to hold flour,
+sugar, &c., conveniently,) and a set of tin measures: as accuracy
+in proportioning the ingredients is indispensable to success in
+cookery. It is best to have the scales permanently fixed to a
+small beam projecting (for instance) from one of the shelves of
+the store-room. This will preclude the frequent inconvenience of
+their getting twisted, unlinked, and otherwise out of order; a
+common consequence of putting them in and out of their box, and
+carrying them from place to place. The weights (of which there
+should be a set from two pounds to a quarter of an ounce) ought
+carefully to be kept in the box, that none of them may be lost or
+mislaid.
+
+A set of tin measures (with small spouts or lips) from a gallon
+down to half a jill, will be found very convenient in every
+kitchen; though common pitchers, bowls, glasses, &c. may be
+substituted. It is also well to have a set of wooden measures from
+a bushel to a quarter of a peck.
+
+
+Let it be remembered, that of liquid measure--
+
+Two jills are half a pint.
+Two pints--one quart.
+Four quarts--one gallon.
+
+Of dry measure--
+
+Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck.
+
+One gallon--half a peck.
+Two gallons--one peck.
+Four gallons--half a bushel.
+Eight gallons--one bushel.
+
+About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a common
+sized tea-spoon.
+
+Four table-spoonfuls or half a jill, will fill a common wine
+glass.
+
+Four wine glasses will fill a half-pint or common tumbler, or a
+large coffee-cup.
+
+A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half.
+
+Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and
+pastry, a quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound
+avoirdupois, (sixteen ounces.) Avoirdupois is the weight
+designated throughout this book.
+
+Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they are broken.
+
+A table-spoonful of salt is generally about one ounce.
+
+
+
+
+GENERAL CONTENTS.
+
+Soups; including those of Fish
+
+Fish; various ways of dressing
+
+Shell Fish; Oysters, Lobsters, Crabs, &c.
+
+Beef; including pickling and smoking it
+
+Veal
+
+Mutton and Lamb
+
+Pork; including Bacon, Sausages, &c.
+
+Venison; Hares, Rabbits, &c.
+
+Poultry and Game
+
+Gravy and Sauces
+
+Store Fish Sauces; Catchups, &c.
+
+Flavoured Vinegars; Mustards & Pepper
+
+Vegetables; including Indian Corn, Tomatas, Mushrooms, &c.
+
+Eggs; usual ways of dressing, including Omelets
+
+Pickling
+
+Sweetmeats; including Preserves and Jellies
+
+Pastry and Puddings; also Pancakes, Dumplings, Custards, &c.,
+Syllabubs; also Ice Creams and Blanc-mange
+
+Cakes; including various sweet Cakes and Gingerbread
+
+Warm Cakes for Breakfast and Tea; also, Bread, Yeast, Butter,
+Cheese, Tea, Coffee, &c.
+
+Domestic Liquors; including home-made Beer, Wines, Shrub,
+Cordials, &c.
+
+Preparations for the Sick
+
+Perfumery
+
+Miscellaneous Receipts
+
+Additional Receipts
+
+Animals used as Butchers' Meat
+
+Index
+
+
+
+
+MISS LESLIE'S COOKERY.
+
+
+
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Always use soft water for making soup, and be careful to
+proportion the quantity of water to that of the meat. Somewhat
+less than a quart of water to a pound of meat, is a good rule for
+common soups. Rich soups, intended for company, may have a still
+smaller allowance of water.
+
+Soup should always be made entirely of fresh meat that has not
+been previously cooked. An exception to this rule may sometimes be
+made in favour of the remains of a piece of roast beef that has
+been _very much_ under-done in roasting. This may be
+_added_ to a good piece of raw meat. Cold ham, also, may be
+occasionally put into white soups.
+
+Soup made of cold meat has always a vapid, disagreeable taste,
+very perceptible through all the seasoning, and which nothing
+indeed can disguise. Also, it will be of a bad, dingy colour. The
+juices of the meat having been exhausted by the first cooking, the
+undue proportion of watery liquid renders it, for soup,
+indigestible and unwholesome, as well as unpalatable. As there is
+little or no nutriment to be derived from soup made with cold
+meat, it is better to refrain from using it for this purpose, and
+to devote the leavings of the table to some other object. No
+person accustomed to really good soup, made from fresh meat, can
+ever be deceived in the taste, even when flavoured with wine and
+spices. It is not true that French cooks have the art of producing
+_excellent_ soups from cold scraps. There is much _bad_
+soup to be found in France, at inferior houses; but _good_
+French cooks are not, as is generally supposed, really in the
+practice of concocting any dishes out of the refuse of the table.
+And we repeat, that cold meat, even when perfectly good, and used
+in a large quantity, has not sufficient substance to flavour soup,
+or to render it wholesome.
+
+Soup, however, that has been originally made of raw meat entirely,
+is frequently better the second day than the first; provided that
+it is re-boiled only for a very short time, and that no additional
+water is added to it.
+
+Unless it has been allowed to boil too hard, so as to exhaust the
+water, the soup-pot will not require replenishing. When it is
+found absolutely necessary to do so, the additional water must be
+boiling hot when poured in; if lukewarm or cold, it will entirely
+spoil the soup.
+
+Every particle of fat should be carefully skimmed from the
+surface. Greasy soup is disgusting and unwholesome. The lean of
+meat is much better for soup than the fat.
+
+Long and slow boiling is necessary to extract the strength from
+the meat. If boiled fast over a large fire, the meat becomes hard
+and tough, and will not give out its juices.
+
+Potatoes, if boiled in the soup, are thought by some to render it
+unwholesome, from the opinion that the water in which potatoes
+have been cooked is almost a poison. As potatoes are a part of
+every dinner, it is very easy to take a few out of the pot in
+which they have been boiled by themselves, and to cut them up and
+add them to the soup just before it goes to table.
+
+The cook should season the soup but very slightly with salt and
+pepper. If she puts in too much, it may spoil it for the taste of
+most of those that are to eat it; but if too little, it is easy to
+add more to your own plate.
+
+The practice of thickening soup by stirring flour into it is not a
+good one, as it spoils both the appearance and the taste. If made
+with a sufficient quantity of good fresh meat, and not too much
+water, and if boiled long and slowly, it will have substance
+enough without flour.
+
+
+FAMILY SOUP.
+
+Take a shin or leg of beef that has been newly killed; the fore
+leg is best, as there is the most meat on it. Have it cut into
+three pieces, and wash it well. To each pound allow somewhat less
+than a quart of water; for instance, to ten pounds of leg of beef,
+nine quarts of water is a good proportion. Put it into a large
+pot, and add half a table-spoonful of salt. Hang it over a good
+fire, as early as six o'clock in the morning, if you dine at two.
+When it has come to a hard boil, and the scum has risen, (which it
+will do as soon as it has boiled,) skim it well. Do not remove the
+lid more frequently than is absolutely necessary, as uncovering
+the pot causes the flavour to evaporate. Then set it on hot coals
+in the corner, and keep it simmering steadily, adding fresh coals
+so as to continue a regular heat.
+
+About nine o'clock, put in four carrots, one parsnip, and a large
+onion cut into slices, and four small turnips, and eight tomatas,
+also cut up; add a head of celery cut small. Put in a very small
+head of cabbage, cut into little pieces. If you have any objection
+to cabbage, substitute a larger proportion of the other
+vegetables. Put in also a bunch of sweet marjoram, tied up in a
+thin muslin rag to prevent its floating on the top.
+
+Let the soup simmer unceasingly till two o'clock, skimming it
+well: then take it up, and put it into a tureen. If your dinner
+hour is later, you may of course begin the soup later; but it will
+require at least eight hours' cooking; remembering to put in the
+vegetables three hours after the meat.
+
+If you wish to send the meat to table, take the best part of it
+out of the soup, about two hours before dinner. Have ready another
+pot with a dozen tomatas and a few cloves. Moisten them with a
+little of the soup, just sufficient to keep them from burning.
+When the tomatas have stewed down soft, put the meat upon them,
+and let it brown till dinner time over a few coals, keeping the
+pot closely covered; then send it to table on a dish by itself.
+Let the remainder of the meat be left in the large pot till you
+send up the soup, as by that time it will be boiled to rags and
+have transferred all its flavour to the liquid.
+
+This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of a few dozen
+ochras cut into very thin slices, and put in with the other
+vegetables. You may put Lima beans into it, green peas, or indeed
+any vegetables you like: or you may thicken it with ochras and
+tomatas only.
+
+Next day, take what is left of the soup, put it into a pot, and
+simmer it over hot coals for half an hour: a longer time will
+weaken the taste. If it has been well made and kept in a cool
+place, it will be found better the second day than the first.
+
+If your family is very small, and the leg of beef large, and the
+season winter, it may furnish soup for four successive days. Cut
+the beef in half; make soup of the first half, in the manner above
+directed, and have the remainder warmed next day; then on the
+third day make fresh soup of the second half.
+
+We have been minute in these directions; for if strictly followed,
+the soup, though plain, will be found excellent.
+
+If you do not intend to serve up the meat separately, break to
+pieces all the bones with a mallet or kitchen cleaver. This, by
+causing them to give out their marrow, &c., will greatly enrich
+the liquid. Do this, of course, when you first begin the soup.
+
+
+FINE BEEF SOUP.
+
+Begin this soup the day before it is wanted. Take a good piece of
+fresh beef that has been newly killed: any substantial part will
+do that has not too much fat about it: a fore leg is very good for
+this purpose. Wash it well. Cut off all the meat, and break up the
+bones. Put the meat and the bones into a large pot, very early in
+the day, so as to allow eight or nine hours for its boiling.
+Proportion the water to the quantity of meat--about a pint and a
+half to each pound. Sprinkle the meat with a small quantity of
+pepper and salt. Pour on the water, hang it over a moderate fire,
+and boil it slowly; carefully skimming off all the fat that rises
+to the top, and keeping it closely covered, except when you raise
+the lid to skim it. Do not, on any account, put in additional
+water to this soup while it is boiling; and take care that the
+boiling goes steadily on, as, if it stops, the soup will be much
+injured. But if the fire is too great, and the soup boils too
+fast, the meat will become hard and tough, and will not give out
+its juices.
+
+After the meat is reduced to rags, and the soup sufficiently
+boiled, remove the pot from the fire, and let it stand in the
+corner for a quarter of an hour to settle. Then take it up, strain
+it into a large earthen pan, cover it, and set it away in a cool
+dry place till next day. Straining it makes it clear and bright,
+and frees it from the shreds of meat and bone. If you find that it
+jellies in the pan, (which it will if properly made,) do not
+disturb it till you are ready to put it into the pot for the
+second boiling, as breaking the jelly may prevent it from keeping
+well.
+
+On the following morning, boil separately, carrots, turnips,
+onions, celery, and whatever other vegetables you intend to
+thicken the soup with. Tomatas will greatly improve it. Prepare
+them by taking off the skin, cutting them into small pieces, and
+stewing them in their own juice till they are entirely dissolved.
+Put on the carrots before any of the other vegetables, as they
+require the longest time to boil. Or you may slice and put into
+the soup a portion of the vegetables you are boiling for dinner;
+but they must be nearly done before you put them in, as the second
+boiling of the soup should not exceed half an hour, or indeed,
+just sufficient time to heat it thoroughly.
+
+Scrape off carefully from the cake of jellied soup whatever fat or
+sediment may still be remaining on it; divide the jelly into
+pieces, and about half an hour before it is to go to table, put it
+into a pot, add the various vegetables, (having first sliced
+them,) in sufficient quantities to make the soup very thick; hang
+it over the fire and let it boil slowly, or simmer steadily till
+dinner time. Boiling it much on the second day will destroy the
+flavour, and render it flat and insipid. For this reason, in
+making fine, clear beef soup, the vegetables are to be cooked
+separately. They need not be put in the first day, as the soup is
+to be strained; and on the second day, if put in raw, the length
+of time required to cook them would spoil the soup by doing it too
+much. We repeat, that when soup has been sufficiently boiled on
+the first day, and all the juices and flavour of the meat
+thoroughly extracted, half an hour is the utmost it requires on
+the second.
+
+Carefully avoid seasoning it too highly. Soup, otherwise
+excellent, is frequently spoiled by too much pepper and salt.
+These condiments can be added at table, according to the taste of
+those that are eating it; but if too large a proportion of them is
+put in by the cook, there is then no remedy, and the soup may by
+some be found uneatable.
+
+Many persons prefer boiling all the vegetables in the soup on the
+first day, thinking that they improve its flavour. This may be
+done in common soup that is not to be strained, but is
+inadmissible if you wish it to be very bright and clear. Also,
+unless you have a garden and a profusion of vegetables of your
+own, it is somewhat extravagant, as when strained out they are of
+no further use, and are therefore wasted.
+
+
+MUTTON SOUP.
+
+Cut off the shoulder part of a fore quarter of mutton, and having
+cut all the meat from the bone, put it into a soup pot with two
+quarts of water. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then
+slacken the fire and simmer the meat for an hour and a half. Then
+take the remainder of the mutton, and put it whole into the soup-pot
+with sufficient boiling water to cover it well, and salt it to
+your taste. Skim it the moment the fresh piece of meat begins to
+boil, and about every quarter of an hour afterwards. It should
+boil slowly five hours. Prepare half a dozen turnips, four
+carrots, and three onions, (all cut up, but not small,) and put
+them in about an hour and a half before dinner. [Footnote: The
+carrots should be put in early, as they require a long time to
+boil; if full grown, at least three hours.] You may also put in
+some small dumplings. Add some chopped parsley.
+
+Cut the meat off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table
+in the tureen with the soup. The other half of the mutton should
+be served on a separate dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid
+round it. Many persons are fond of mutton that has been boiled in
+soup.
+
+You may thicken this soup with rice or barley that has first been
+soaked in cold water; or with green peas; or with young corn, cut
+down from the cob; or with tomatas scalded, peeled, and cut into
+pieces.
+
+_Cabbage Soup_ may be made in the same manner, of neck of
+mutton. Omit all the other vegetables, and put in a large head of
+white cabbage, stripped of the outside leaves, and cut small.
+
+_Noodle Soup_ can be made in this manner also. Noodles are a
+mixture of flour and beaten egg, made into a stiff paste, kneaded,
+rolled out very thin, and cut into long narrow slips, not thicker
+than straws, and then dried three or four hours in the sun, on tin
+or pewter plates. They must be put in the soup shortly before
+dinner, as, if boiled too long they will go to pieces.
+
+With the mutton that is taken from the soup you may send to table
+some suet dumplings, boiled in another pot, and served on a
+separate dish. Make them in the proportion of half a pound of beef
+suet to a pound and a quarter of flour. Chop the suet as fine as
+possible, rub it into the flour, and mix it into a dough with a
+little cold water. Roll it out thick, and cut it into dumplings
+about as large as the top of a tumbler, and boil them an hour.
+
+
+VEAL SOUP.
+
+The knuckle or leg of veal is the best for soup. Wash it and break
+up the bones. Put it into a pot with a pound of ham or bacon cut
+into pieces, and water enough to cover the meat. A set of calf's
+feet, cut in half, will greatly improve it. After it has stewed
+slowly, till all the meat drops to pieces, strain it, return it to
+the pot, and put in a head of celery cut small, three onions, a
+bunch of sweet marjoram, a carrot and a turnip cut into pieces,
+and two dozen black pepper-corns, with salt to your taste. Add
+some small dumplings made of flour and butter. Simmer it another
+hour, or till all the vegetables are sufficiently done, and thus
+send it to table.
+
+You may thicken it with noodles, that is paste made of flour and
+beaten egg, and cut into long thin slips. Or with vermicelli,
+rice, or barley; or with green peas, or asparagus tops.
+
+
+RICH VEAL SOUP.
+
+Take three pounds of the scrag of a neck of veal, cut it into
+pieces, and put it with the bones (which must be broken up) into a
+pot with two quarts of water. Stew it till the meat is done to
+rags, and skim it well. Then strain it and return it to the pot.
+
+Blanch and pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, a quarter of a
+pound of sweet almonds, and mix them with the yolks of six hard
+boiled eggs grated, mid a pint of cream, which must first have
+been boiled or it will curdle in the soup. Season it with nutmeg
+and mace. Stir the mixture into the soup, and let it boil
+afterward about three minutes, stirring all the time. Lay in the
+bottom of the tureen some slices of bread without the crust. Pour
+the soup upon it, and send it to table.
+
+
+CLEAR GRAVY SOUP.
+
+Having well buttered the inside of a nicely tinned stew-pot, cut
+half a pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom, with
+three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and as much veal, cut from
+the bones, which you must afterward break to pieces, and lay on
+the meat. Cover the pan closely, and set it over a quick fire.
+When the meat begins to stick to the pan, turn it; and when there
+is a nice brown glaze at the bottom, cover the meat with cold
+water. Watch it well, and when it is just coming to a boil, put in
+half a pint of cold water. This will cause the scum to rise. Skim
+it well, and then pour in another half pint of cold water; skim it
+again; pour in cold water as before, half a pint at a time, and
+repeat this till no more scum rises. In skimming, carefully avoid
+stirring the soup, as that will injure its clearness.
+
+In the mean time prepare your vegetables. Peel off the outer skin
+of three large white onions and slice them. Pare three large
+turnips, and slice them also. Wash clean and cut into small pieces
+three carrots, and three large heads of celery. If you cannot
+obtain fresh celery, substitute a large table-spoonful of celery
+seed, tied up in a bit of clear muslin. Put the vegetables into
+the soup, and then place the pot on one side of the fire, where
+the heat is not so great as in the middle. Let it boil gently for
+four hours. Then strain the soup through a fine towel or linen bag
+into a large stone pan, but do not squeeze the bag, or the soup
+will be cloudy, and look dull instead of clear. In pouring it into
+the straining cloth, be careful not to disturb the ingredients at
+the bottom of the soup-pot.
+
+This soup should be of a fine clear amber colour. If not perfectly
+bright after straining, you may clarify it in this manner. Put it
+into the stew-pan. Break the whites of two eggs into a basin,
+carefully avoiding the smallest particle of the yolk. Beat the
+white of egg to a stiff froth, and then mix it gradually with the
+soup. Set it over the fire, and stir it till it boils briskly.
+Then take it off, and set it beside the fire to settle for ten
+minutes. Strain it then through a clean napkin, and it will be fit
+for use. But it is better to have the soup clear by making it
+carefully, than to depend on clarifying it afterward, as the white
+of egg weakens the taste.
+
+In making this (which is quite a show-soup) it is customary to
+reverse the general rule, and pour in cold water.
+
+
+SOUPE A LA JULIENNE.
+
+Make a gravy soup as in the preceding receipt, and strain it
+before you put in the vegetables. Cut some turnips and carrots
+into ribands, and some onions and celery into lozenges or long
+diamond-shaped pieces. Boil them separately. When the vegetables
+are thoroughly boiled, put them with the soup into the tureen, and
+then lay gently on the top some small squares of toasted bread
+without crust; taking care that they do not crumble down and
+disturb the brightness of the soup, which should be of a clear
+amber colour.
+
+
+MACCARONI SOUP.
+
+This also is made of clear gravy soup. Cut up and boil the
+maccaroni by itself in a very little water, allowing a quarter of
+a pound to a quart of soup. The pieces should be about an inch
+long. Put a small piece of butter with it. It must boil till
+tender, but not till it breaks. Throw it into the soup shortly
+before it goes to table, and give it one boil up. Send to table
+with it a plate or glass of rasped Parmesan or other rich cheese,
+with a dessert spoon in it, that those who like it may put it into
+their soup on the plate.
+
+While the maccaroni is boiling, take care that it does not get
+into lumps.
+
+
+RICH MACCARONI SOUP.
+
+Take a quart of clear gravy soup, and boil in it a pound of the
+best maccaroni cut into pieces. When it is tender, take out half
+of the maccaroni, and add to the remainder two quarts more of the
+soup. Boil it till the maccaroni is entirely dissolved and
+incorporated with the liquid. Strain it; then return it to the
+soup-pan, and add to it the remainder of the maccaroni, (that was
+taken out before the pieces broke,) and put in a quarter of a
+pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Let it simmer awhile, but take it
+up before it comes to a boil.
+
+It may be made with milk instead of gravy soup.
+
+
+VERMICELLI SOUP.
+
+Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton into small pieces, and
+put them, with the bones broken up, into a large stew-pan. Add the
+meat sliced from a hock or shank of ham, a quarter of a pound of
+butter, two large onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a
+head of celery cut small. Cover the pan closely, and set it
+without any water over a slow fire for an hour or more, to extract
+the essence from the meat. Then skim it well, and pour in four
+quarts of boiling water, and let it boil gently till all the meat
+is reduced to rags. Strain it, set it again on the fire, and add a
+quarter of a pound of vermicelli, which has first been scalded in
+boiling water. Season it to your taste with salt and cayenne
+pepper, and let it boil five minutes. Lay a large slice of bread
+in the bottom of your tureen, and pour the soup upon it.
+
+For the veal or mutton you may substitute a pair of large fowls
+cut into pieces; always adding the ham or a few slices of bacon,
+without which it will be insipid. Old fowls that are fit for no
+other purpose will do very well for soup.
+
+
+MILK SOUP.
+
+Boil two quarts of milk with a quarter of a pound of sweet
+almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, blanched and broken to
+pieces, and a large stick of cinnamon broken up. Stir in sugar
+enough to make it very sweet. When it has boiled strain it. Cut
+some thin slices of bread, and (having pared off the crust) toast
+them. Lay them in the bottom of a tureen, pour a little of the hot
+milk over them, and cover them close, that they may soak. Beat the
+yolks of five eggs very light Set the milk on hot coals, and add
+the eggs to it by degrees; stirring it all the time till it
+thickens. Then take it off instantly, lest it curdle, and pour it
+into the tureen, boiling hot, over the bread.
+
+This will be still better if you cover the bottom with slices of
+baked apple.
+
+
+RICH BROWN SOUP.
+
+Take six pounds of the lean of fresh beef, cut from the bone.
+Stick it over with four dozen cloves. Season it with a tea-spoonful
+of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of
+mace, and a beaten nutmeg. Slice half a dozen onions; fry them in
+butter; chop them, and spread them over the meat after you have
+put it into the soup-pot. Pour in five quarts of water, and stew
+it slowly for five or six hours; skimming it well. When the meat
+has dissolved into shreds, strain it, and return the liquid to the
+pot. Then add a tumbler and a half, or six wine glasses of claret
+or port wine. Simmer it again slowly till dinner time. When the
+soup is reduced to three quarts, it is done enough. Put it into a
+tureen, and send it to table.
+
+
+RICH WHITE SOUP.
+
+Take a pair of large fat fowls. Cut them up. Butter the inside of
+the soup-pot, and put in the pieces of fowl with two pounds of the
+lean of veal, cut into pieces, or with four calf's feet cut in
+half. Season them with a tea-spoonful of salt, a half tea-spoonful
+of cayenne pepper, and a dozen blades of mace. Cover them with
+water, and stew it slowly for an hour, skimming it well. Then take
+out the breasts and wings of the fowls, and having cut off the
+flesh, chop it fine. Keep the pot covered, and the veal and the
+remainder of the fowls still stewing.
+
+Mix the chopped chicken with the grated crumb of about one quarter
+of a loaf of stale bread, (a six cent loaf,) having soaked the
+crumbs in a little warm milk. Have ready the yolks of four hard
+boiled eggs, a dozen sweet almonds, and half a dozen bitter ones
+blanched and broken small. Mix the egg and almonds with the
+chopped chicken and grated bread, and pound all in a mortar till
+it is well incorporated. Strain the soup from the meat and fowl,
+and stir this mixture into the liquid, after it has stewed till
+reduced to two quarts. Having boiled separately a quart of cream
+or rich milk, add it hot to the soup, a little at a time. Cover
+it, and let it simmer a few minutes longer. Then send it to table.
+
+These two soups (the brown and the white) are suited to dinner
+parties.
+
+
+MEG MERRILIES' SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of venison, or if you cannot procure venison you
+may substitute the lean of fresh beef or mutton. Season it with
+pepper and salt, put it into a large pot, (break the bones and lay
+them on the meat,) pour in four quarts of water, and boil it three
+hours, skimming it well. Then strain it, and put it into another
+pot.
+
+Cut up a hare or a rabbit, a pair of partridges, and a pair of
+grouse; or one of each, with a pheasant, a woodcock, or any other
+game that you can most easily obtain. Season them and put them
+into the soup. Add a dozen small onions, a couple of heads of
+celery cut small, and half a dozen sliced potatoes. Let the soup
+simmer till the game is sufficiently done, and all the vegetables
+tender.
+
+This is the soup with which the gipsy, Meg Merrilies, regaled
+Dominie Sampson.
+
+When game is used for soup, it must be newly killed, and quite
+fresh.
+
+
+VENISON SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of freshly killed venison cut off from the bones,
+and one pound of ham in small slices. Add an onion minced, and
+black pepper to your taste. Put only as much water as will cover
+it, and stew it gently for an hour, keeping the pot closely
+covered. Then skim it well, and pour in a quart of boiling water.
+Add a head of celery cut into small pieces, and half a dozen
+blades of mace. Boil it gently two hours and a half. Then put in a
+quarter of a pound of butter, divided into small pieces and rolled
+in flour, and half a pint of port or Madeira wine. Let it boil a
+quarter of an hour longer, and then send it to table with the meat
+in it.
+
+
+HARE OR RABBIT SOUP.
+
+Take a large newly killed hare, or two rabbits; cut them up and
+wash the pieces. Save all the blood, (which adds much to the
+flavour of the hare,) and strain it through a sieve. Put the
+pieces into a soup-pot with four whole onions stuck with a few
+cloves, four or five blades of mace, a head of celery cut small,
+and a bunch of parsley with a large sprig of sweet marjoram and
+one of sweet basil, all tied together. Salt and cayenne to your
+taste. Pour in three quarts of water, and stew it gently an hour
+and a half. Then put in the strained blood and simmer it for
+another hour, at least. Do not let it actually boil, as that will
+cause the blood to curdle. Then strain it, and pound half the meat
+in a mortar, and stir it into the soup to thicken it, and cut the
+remainder of the meat into small mouthfuls. Stir in, at the last,
+a jill or two glasses of red wine, and a large table-spoonful of
+currant jelly. Boil it slowly a few minutes longer, and then put
+it into your tureen. It will be much improved by the addition of
+about a dozen and a half small force-meat balls, about the size of
+a nutmeg. This soup will require cooking at least four hours.
+
+Partridge, pheasant, or grouse soup may be made in a similar
+manner.
+
+If you have any clear gravy soup, you may cut up the hare, season
+it as above, and put it into a jug or jar well covered, and set in
+boiling water till the meat is tender. Then put it into the gravy
+soup, add the wine, and let it come to a boil. Send it to table
+with the pieces of the hare in the soup.
+
+When hare soup is made in this last manner, omit using the blood.
+
+
+MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, AS MADE IN INDIA.
+
+Take a quarter of an ounce of China turmeric, the third of an
+ounce of cassia, three drachms of black pepper, two drachms of
+cayenne pepper, and an ounce of coriander seeds. These must all be
+pounded fine in a mortar, and well mixed and sifted. They will
+make sufficient curry powder for the following quantity of soup:
+
+Take two large fowls, or three pounds of the lean of veal. Cut the
+flesh entirely from the bones in small pieces, and put it into a
+stew-pan with two quarts of water. Let it boil slowly for half an
+hour, skimming it well. Prepare four large onions, minced and
+fried in two ounces of butter. Add to them the curry powder and
+moisten the whole with broth from the stew-pan, mixed with a
+little rice flour. When thoroughly mixed, stir the seasoning into
+the soup, and simmer it till it is as smooth and thick as cream,
+and till the chicken or veal is perfectly tender. Then stir into
+it the juice of a lemon; and five minutes after take up the soup,
+with the meat in it, and serve it in the tureen.
+
+Send to table separately, boiled rice on a hot-water dish to keep
+it warm, The rice is to be put into the plates of soup by those
+who eat it.
+
+To boil rice for this soup in the East India fashion:--Pick and
+wash half a pound in warm water. Put it into a sauce-pan. Pour two
+quarts of boiling water over it, and cover the pan closely. Set it
+in a warm place by the fire, to cook gradually in the hot water.
+In an hour pour off all the water, and setting the pan on hot
+coals, stir up and toss the rice with a fork, so as to separate
+the grains, and to dry without hardening it. Do not use a spoon,
+as that will not loosen the grains sufficiently.
+
+
+MOCK TURTLE OR CALF'S HEAD SOUP.
+
+This soup will require eight hours to prepare. Take a large calf's
+head, and having cleaned, washed, and soaked it, put it into a pot
+with a knuckle of veal, and the hock of a ham, or a few slices of
+bacon; but previously cut off and reserve enough of the veal to
+make two dozen small force-meat balls. Put the head and the other
+meat into as much water as will cover it very well, so that it may
+not be necessary to replenish it: this soup being always made very
+rich. Let it boil slowly four hours, skimming it carefully. As
+soon as no more scum rises, put in six potatoes, and three
+turnips, all sliced thin; with equal proportions of parsley, sweet
+marjoram and sweet basil, chopped fine; and pepper and salt to
+your taste.
+
+An hour before you send the meat to table, make about two dozen
+small force-meat balls of minced veal and beef-suet in equal
+quantities, seasoned with pepper and salt; sweet herbs, grated
+lemon-peel, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Add some beaten yolk of
+egg to make all these ingredients stick together. Flour the balls
+very well, and fry them in butter. Before you put them into the
+soup, take out the head, and the other meat. Cut the meat from the
+head in small pieces, and return it to the soup. When the soup is
+nearly done, stir in half a pint of Madeira. Have ready at least a
+dozen egg-balls made of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or
+pounded in a mortar, and mixed with a little flour and sufficient
+raw yolk of egg to bind them. Make them up into the form and size
+of boy's marbles. Throw them into the soup at the last, and also
+squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Let it get another slow boil, and
+then put it into the tureen.
+
+We omit a receipt for _real_ turtle soup, as when that very
+expensive, complicated, and difficult dish is prepared in a
+private family, it is advisable to hire a first-rate cook for the
+express purpose.
+
+An easy way is to get it ready made, in any quantity you please,
+from a turtle-soup house.
+
+
+OX TAIL SOUP
+
+Three ox tails will make a large tureen full of soup. Desire the
+butcher to divide them at the joints. Rub them with salt, and put
+them to soak in warm water, while you prepare the vegetables. Put
+into a large pot or stew-pan four onions peeled and quartered, a
+bunch of parsley, two sliced carrots, two sliced turnips, and two
+dozen pepper corns. Then put in the tails, and pour on three
+quarts of water.
+
+Cover the pot, and set it on hot coals by the side of the fire.
+Keep it gently simmering for about three hours, supplying it well
+with fresh hot coals. Skim it carefully. When the meat is quite
+tender, and falls from the bones, strain the soup into another
+pot, and add to it a spoonful of mushroom catchup, and two
+spoonfuls of butter rubbed in flour.
+
+You may thicken it also with the pulp of a dozen onions first
+fried soft, and then rubbed through a cullender. After it is
+thickened, let it just boil up, and then send it to table, with
+small squares of toasted bread in the tureen.
+
+
+OCHRA SOUP.
+
+Take a large slice of ham (cold boiled ham is best) and two pounds
+of the lean of fresh beef; cut all the meat into small pieces. Add
+a quarter of a pound of butter slightly melted; twelve large
+tomatas pared and cut small; five dozen ochras cut into slices not
+thicker than a cent; and salt and cayenne pepper to your taste.
+Put all these ingredients into a pot; cover them with boiling
+water, and let them stew slowly for an hour. Then add three quarts
+of _hot_ water, and increase the heat so as to make the soup
+boil. Skim it well, and stir it frequently with a wooden or silver
+spoon.
+
+Boil it till the tomatas are all to pieces, and the ochras
+entirely dissolved. Strain it, and then serve it up with toasted
+bread cut into dice, put in after it comes out of the pot.
+
+This soup will be improved by a pint of shelled Lima beans, boiled
+by themselves, and put into the tureen just before you send it to
+table.
+
+
+BEAN SOUP.
+
+Put two quarts of dried white beans into soak the night before you
+make the soup, which should be put on as early in the day as
+possible.
+
+Take five pounds of the lean of fresh beef--the coarse pieces will
+do. Cut them up, and put them into your soup-pot with the bones
+belonging to them, (which should be broken to pieces,) and a pound
+of bacon cut very small. If you have the remains of a piece of
+beef that has been roasted the day before, and so much under-done
+that the juices remain in it, you may put it into the pot, and its
+bones along with it. Season the meat with pepper and salt, and
+pour on it six quarts of water. As soon as it boils take off the
+scum, and put in the beans (having first drained them) and a head
+of celery cut small, or a table-spoonful of pounded celery-seed.
+Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds, and the beans all
+dissolved. Then strain it through a cullender into the tureen, and
+put into it small squares of toasted bread with the crust cut off.
+
+Some prefer it with the beans boiled soft, but not quite
+dissolved. In this case, do not strain it; but take out the meat
+and bones with a fork before you send it to table.
+
+
+PEAS SOUP.
+
+Soak two quarts of dried or split peas overnight. In the morning
+take three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and a pound of bacon
+or pickled pork. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a large
+soup-pot with the peas, (which must first be well drained,) and a
+table-spoonful of dried mint rubbed to powder. Add five quarts of
+water, and boil the soup gently for three hours, skimming it well,
+and then put in four heads of celery cut small, or two table-spoonfuls
+of pounded celery seed.
+
+It must be boiled till the peas are entirely dissolved, so as to
+be no longer distinguishable, and the celery quite soft. Then
+strain it into a tureen, and serve it up with toasted bread cut in
+dice. Omit the crust of the bread.
+
+Stir it up immediately before it goes to table, as it is apt to
+settle, and be thick at the bottom and thin at the top.
+
+
+GREEN PEAS SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound of bacon. Cut
+them to pieces, and put them into a soup kettle with a sprig of
+mint and four quarts of water. Boil it moderately fast, and skim
+it well. When the meat is boiled to rags, strain it out, and put
+to the liquor a quart of young green peas. Boil them till they are
+entirely dissolved, and till they have thickened the soup, and
+given it a green colour. [Footnote: You may greatly improve the
+colour by pounding a handful of spinach in a mortar, straining the
+juice, and adding it to the soup about a quarter of an hour before
+it has done boiling.]
+
+Have ready two quarts of green peas that have been boiled in
+another pot with a sprig of mint, and two or three lumps of loaf
+sugar, (which will greatly improve the taste.) After they have
+boiled in this pot twenty minutes, take out the mint, put the
+whole peas into the pot of soup, and boil all together about ten
+minutes. Then put it into a tureen, and send it to table.
+
+Never use hard old green peas for this soup, or for any other
+purpose. When they begin to turn yellow, it is time to leave them
+off for the season.
+
+Lima bean soup may be made in the same manner.
+
+
+ASPARAGUS SOUP.
+
+Asparagus soup may be made in a similar manner to that of green
+peas. You must have four or five bunches of asparagus. Cut off the
+green tops, and put half of them into the soup, after the meat has
+been boiled to pieces and strained out. The asparagus must be
+boiled till quite dissolved, and till it has given a green colour
+to the soup. Then take the remainder of the asparagus tops (which
+must all this time have been lying in cold water) and put them
+into the soup, and let them boil about twenty minutes. Serve it up
+with small squares of toast in the tureen.
+
+You may heighten the green of this soup by adding the juice of a
+handful of spinach, pounded in a mortar and strained. Or you may
+colour it with the juice of boiled spinach squeezed through a
+cloth. The spinach juice should be put in fifteen or ten minutes
+before you take up the soup, as a short boiling in it will take
+off the peculiar taste.
+
+
+FRIAR'S CHICKEN,
+
+Cut up four pounds of knuckle of veal; season it with white pepper
+and salt: put it into a soup-pan and let it boil slowly till the
+meat drops from the bone. Then strain it off. Have ready a pair of
+young fowls skinned, and cut up as you carve them at table. Season
+them with white pepper, salt, and mace. Put them into the soup,
+add a handful of chopped parsley, and let them boil. When the
+pieces of chicken are all quite tender, have ready four or five
+eggs well beaten. Stir the egg into the soup, and take it
+immediately off the fire lest it curdle. Serve up the chicken in
+the soup.
+
+Rabbits may be substituted for fowls.
+
+
+CATFISH SOUP.
+
+Catfish that have been caught near the middle of the river are
+much nicer than those that are taken near the shore where they
+have access to impure food. The small white ones are the best.
+Having cut off their heads, skin the fish, and clean them, and cut
+them in three. To twelve small catfish allow a pound and a half of
+ham. Cut the ham into small pieces, or slice it very thin, and
+scald it two or three times in boiling water, lest it be too salt.
+Chop together a bunch of parsley and some sweet marjoram stripped
+from the stalks. Put these ingredients into a soup kettle and
+season them with pepper: the ham will make it salt enough. Add a
+head of celery cut small, or a large table-spoonful of celery seed
+tied up in a bit of clear muslin to prevent its dispersing. Pat in
+two quarts of water, cover the kettle, and let it boil slowly till
+every thing is sufficiently done, and the fish and ham quite
+tender. Skim it frequently. Boil in another vessel a quart of rich
+milk, in which you have melted a quarter of a pound of butter
+divided into small bits and rolled in flour. Pour it hot to the
+soup, and stir in at the last the beaten yolks of four eggs. Give
+it another boil, just to take off the rawness of the eggs, and
+then put it into a tureen, taking out the bag of celery seed
+before you send the soup to table, and adding some toasted bread
+cut into small squares. In making toast for soap, cut the bread
+thick, and pare off all the crust.
+
+This soup will be found very fine.
+
+Eel soup may be made in the same manner: chicken soup also.
+
+
+LOBSTER SOUP.
+
+Have ready a good broth made of a knuckle of veal boiled slowly in
+as much water as will cover it, till the meat is reduced to rags.
+It must then be well strained.
+
+Having boiled three fine middle-sized lobsters, extract all the
+meat from the body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a
+mortar, and also an equal quantity of the meat. Mix them well
+together. Add mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and a little grated lemon-peel;
+and make them up into force-meat balls, binding the mixture
+with the yolk of an egg slightly beaten.
+
+Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the meat of
+the lobsters cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together about twenty
+minutes. Then thicken it with the remaining coral, (which you must
+first rub through a sieve,) and add the force-meat balls, and a
+little butter rolled in flour. Simmer it gently for ten minutes,
+but do not let it come to a boil, as that will injure the colour.
+Pour it into a tureen, and send it to table immediately.
+
+
+OYSTER SOUP.
+
+To two quarts of oysters add a pint of water, and let them set an
+hour. Then take them out of the liquor. Grate and roll fine a
+dozen crackers. Put them into the liquor with a large lump of
+fresh butter. When the grated biscuit has quite dissolved, add a
+quart of milk with a grated nutmeg, and a dozen blades of mace;
+and, if in season, a head of celery split fine and cut into small
+pieces. Season it to your taste with pepper.
+
+Mix the whole together, and set it in a closely covered vessel
+over a slow fire. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters; and
+when it comes to a boil again, they will be sufficiently done.
+
+Before you send it to table put into the tureen some toasted bread
+cut into small squares, omitting the crust.
+
+
+PLAIN OYSTER SOUP.
+
+Take two quarts of large oysters. Strain their liquor into a soup
+pan; season it with a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a tea-spoonful
+of whole allspice, the same quantity of whole cloves, and seven or
+eight blades of mace. If the oysters are fresh, add a large tea-spoonful
+of salt; if they are salt oysters, none is requisite. Set
+the pan on hot coals, and boil it slowly (skimming it when
+necessary) till you find that it is sufficiently flavoured with
+the taste of the spice. In the mean time (having cut out the hard
+part) chop the oysters fine, and season them with a powdered
+nutmeg. Take the liquor from the fire, and strain out the spice
+from it. Then return it to the soup pan, and put the chopped
+oysters into it, with whatever liquid may have continued about
+them. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into little bits
+and rolled in flour. Cover the pan, and let it boil hard about
+five minutes. If oysters are cooked too much they become tough and
+tasteless.
+
+
+CLAM SOUP.
+
+Having put your clams into a pot of boiling water to make them
+open easily, take them from the shells, carefully saving the
+liquor. To the liquor of a quart of opened clams, allow three
+quarts of water. Mix the water with the liquor of the clams and
+put it into a large pot with a knuckle of veal, the bone of which
+should be chopped in four places. When it has simmered slowly for
+four hours, put in a large bunch of sweet herbs, a beaten nutmeg,
+a tea-spoonful of mace, and a table-spoonful of whole pepper, but
+no salt, as the salt of the clam liquor will be sufficient. Stew
+it slowly an hour longer, and then strain it. When you have
+returned the liquor to the pot, add a quarter of a pound of butter
+divided into four and each bit rolled in flour. Then put in the
+clams, (having cut them, in pieces,) and let it boil fifteen
+minutes. Send it to table with toasted bread in it cut into dice.
+
+This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of small force-meat
+balls. Make them of cold minced veal or chicken, mixed with
+equal quantities of chopped suet and sweet marjoram, and a smaller
+proportion of hard-boiled egg, grated lemon-peel, and powdered
+nutmeg. Pound all the ingredients together in a mortar, adding a
+little pepper and salt. Break in a raw egg or two (in proportion
+to the quantity) to bind the whole together and prevent it from
+crumbling to pieces. When thoroughly mixed, make the force-meat
+into small balls, and let them boil ten minutes in the soup,
+shortly before you send it to table. If you are obliged to make
+them of raw veal or raw chicken they must boil longer.
+
+It will be a great improvement to cut up a yam and boil it in the
+soup.
+
+Oyster soup may be made in this manner.
+
+
+PLAIN CLAM SOUP.
+
+Take a hundred clams, well washed, and put them into a large pot
+of boiling water. This will cause the shells to open. As they open
+take them out, and extract the clams, taking care to save the
+liquor. Mix with the liquor a quart of water, (or what will be
+much better, a quart of milk,) and thicken it with butter rolled
+in flour. Add a large bunch of parsley tied up, and a large table-spoonful
+of whole pepper. Put the liquid into a pot over a
+moderate fire. Make some little round dumplings (about the size of
+a hickory nut) of flour and butter, and put them into the soup.
+When it comes to a boil, put in the clams, and keep them boiling
+an hour. Take them out before you send the soup to table.
+
+When the soup is done, take out the bunch of parsley. Have ready
+some toasted bread cut into small squares or dice. Put it into the
+soup before you send it to table.
+
+You may make oyster soup in a similar manner.
+
+
+WATER SOUCHY.
+
+Cut up four flounders, or half a dozen perch, two onions, and a
+bunch of parsley. Put them into three quarts of water, and boil
+them till the fish go entirely to pieces, and dissolve in the
+water. Then strain the liquor through a sieve, and put it into a
+kettle or stew-pan. Have ready a few more fish with the heads,
+tails, and fins removed, and the brown skin taken off. Cut little
+notches in them, and lay them for a short time in very cold water.
+Then put them into the stew-pan with the liquor or soup-stock of
+the first fish. Season with pepper, salt, and mace, and add half a
+pint of white wine or two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil it
+gently for a quarter of an hour, and skim it well.
+
+Provide some parsley roots, cut into slices and boiled till very
+tender; and also a quantity of parsley leaves boiled nice and
+green. After the fish-pan has boiled moderately fifteen minutes,
+take it off the fire, and put in the parsley roots; also a little
+mushroom catchup.
+
+Take out the fish and lay them in a broad deep dish, or in a
+tureen, and then pour on the soup very gently for fear of breaking
+them. Strew the green parsley leaves over the top. Have ready
+plates of bread and butter, which it is customary to eat with
+water souchy.
+
+You may omit the wine or vinegar, and flavour the soup just before
+you take it from the fire with essence of anchovy, or with any
+other of the essences and compound fish-sauces that are in general
+use.
+
+Water souchy (commonly pronounced _sookey_) is a Dutch soup.
+It may be made of any sort of small fish; but flounders and perch
+are generally used for it. It is very good made of carp.
+
+
+
+
+FISH.
+
+
+REMARKS.
+
+In choosing fresh fish, select only those that are thick and firm,
+with bright scales and stiff fins; the gills a very lively red,
+and the eyes full and prominent. In the summer, as soon as they
+are brought home, clean them, and put them in ice till you are
+ready to cook them; and even then do not attempt to keep a fresh
+fish till next day. Mackerel cannot be cooked too soon, as they
+spoil more readily than any other fish.
+
+Oysters in the shell may be kept from a week to a fortnight, by
+the following process. Cover them with water, and wash them clean
+with a birch broom. Then lay them with the deep or concave part of
+the shell undermost, and sprinkle each of them well with salt and
+Indian meal. Fill up the tub with cold water. Repeat this every
+day; first pouring off the liquid of the day before.
+
+The tub must stand all the time in a cool cellar, and be covered
+well with an old blanket, carpeting, or something of the sort.
+
+If carefully attended to, oysters kept in this manner will not
+only live but fatten.
+
+It is customary to eat fish only at the commencement of the
+dinner. Fish and soup are generally served up alone, before any of
+the other dishes appear, and with no vegetable but potatoes; it
+being considered a solecism in good taste to accompany them with
+any of the other productions of the garden except a little horseradish,
+parsley, &c. as garnishing.
+
+In England, and at the most fashionable tables in America, bread
+only is eaten with fish. To this rule salt cod is an exception.
+
+
+TO BOIL FRESH SALMON
+
+Scale and clean the fish, handling it as little as possible, and
+cutting it open no more than is absolutely necessary. Place it on
+the strainer of a large fish-kettle and fill it up with cold
+water. Throw in a handful of salt. Let it boil slowly. The length
+of time depends on the size and weight of the fish. You may allow
+a quarter of an hour to each pound; but experience alone can
+determine the exact time. It must however be thoroughly done, as
+nothing is more disgusting than fish that is under-cooked. You may
+try it with a fork. Skim it well or the colour will be bad.
+
+The minute it is completely boiled, lift up the strainer and rest
+it across the top of the kettle, that the fish may drain, and
+then, if you cannot send it to table immediately, cover it with a
+soft napkin or flannel several folds double, to keep it firm by
+absorbing the moisture.
+
+Send it to table on a hot dish. Garnish with scraped horseradish
+and curled parsley. Have ready a small tureen of lobster sauce to
+accompany the salmon.
+
+Take what is left of it after dinner, and put it into a deep dish
+with a close cover. Having saved some of the water in which the
+fish was boiled, take a quart of it, and season it with half an
+ounce of whole pepper, and half an ounce of whole allspice, half a
+pint of the best vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Boil it; and
+when cold, pour it over the fish, and cover it closely again. In a
+cold place, and set on ice, it will keep a day or two, and may be
+eaten at breakfast or supper.
+
+If much of the salmon has been left, you must proportion a larger
+quantity of the pickle.
+
+Boil salmon trout in a similar manner.
+
+
+TO BAKE FRESH SALMON WHOLE
+
+Having cleaned a small or moderate sized salmon, season it with
+salt, pepper, and powdered mace rubbed on it both outside and in.
+Skewer it with the tail turned round and put to the mouth. Lay it
+on a stand or trivet in a deep dish or pan, and stick it over with
+bits of butter rolled in flour. Put it into the oven, and baste it
+occasionally, while baking, with its own drippings.
+
+Garnish it with horseradish and sprigs of curled parsley, laid
+alternately round the edge of the dish; and send to table with it
+a small tureen of lobster sauce.
+
+Salmon trout may be drest in the same manner.
+
+
+SALMON BAKED IN SLICES.
+
+Take out the bone and cut the flesh into slices. Season them with
+cayenne and salt. Melt two ounces of butter that has been rolled
+in flour, in a half pint of water, and mix with it two large
+glasses of port wine, two table-spoonfuls of catchup, and two
+anchovies. This allowance is for a small quantity of salmon. For a
+large dish you must proportion the ingredients accordingly. Let
+the anchovies remain in the liquid till they are dissolved. Then
+strain it and pour it over the slices of salmon. Tie a sheet of
+buttered paper over the dish, and put it into the oven.
+
+You may bake trout or carp in the same manner.
+
+
+SALMON STEAKS
+
+Split the salmon and take out the bone as nicely as possible,
+without mangling the flesh. Then cut it into fillets or steaks
+about an inch thick. Dry them lightly in a cloth, and dredge them
+with flour. Take care not to squeeze or press them. Have ready
+some clear bright coals, such as are fit for beef-steaks. Let the
+gridiron be clean and bright, and rub the bars with chalk to
+prevent the fish from sticking. Broil the slices thoroughly,
+turning them with steak tongs. Send them to table hot, wrapped in
+the folds of a napkin that has been heated. Serve up with them
+anchovy, or prawn, or lobster sauce.
+
+Many epicures consider this the best way of cooking salmon.
+
+Another way, perhaps still nicer, is to take some pieces of white
+paper and butter them well. Wrap in each a slice of salmon,
+securing the paper around them, with a string or pins. Lay them on
+a gridiron, and broil them over a clear but moderate fire, till
+thoroughly done. Take off the paper, and send the cutlets to table
+hot, garnished with fried parsley.
+
+Serve up with them prawn or lobster sauce in a boat.
+
+
+PICKLED SALMON.
+
+Take a fine fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into large
+pieces, and boil it in salted water as if for eating. Then drain
+it, wrap it in a dry cloth, and set it in a cold place till next
+day. Then make the pickle, which must be in proportion to the
+quantity of fish. To one quart of the water in which the salmon
+was boiled, allow two quarts of the best vinegar, one ounce of
+whole black pepper, one ounce of whole allspice, and a dozen
+blades of mace. Boil all these together in a kettle closely
+covered to prevent the flavour from evaporating. When the vinegar
+thus prepared is quite cold, pour it over the salmon, and put on
+the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil, which will make it keep the
+longer.
+
+Cover it closely, put it in a dry cool place, and it will be good
+for many months.
+
+This is the nicest way of preserving salmon, and is approved by
+all who have tried it. Garnish with fennel.
+
+
+SMOKED SALMON.
+
+Cut the fish up the back; clean, and scale it, and take out the
+roe, but do not wash it. Take the bone neatly out. Rub it well
+inside and out with a mixture of salt and fine Havanna sugar, in
+equal quantities, and a small portion of saltpetre. Cover the fish
+with a board on which weights are placed to press it down, and let
+it lie thus for two days and two nights. Drain it from the salt,
+wipe it dry, stretch it open, and fasten it so with pieces of
+stick. Then hang it up and smoke it over a wood fire. It will be
+smoked sufficiently in five or six days.
+
+When you wish to eat it, cut off slices, soak them awhile in
+lukewarm water, and broil them for breakfast.
+
+
+TO BOIL HALIBUT.
+
+Halibut is seldom cooked whole; a piece weighing from four to six
+pounds being generally thought sufficient. Score deeply the skin
+of the back, and when you put it into the kettle lay it on the
+strainer with the back undermost. Cover it with cold water, and
+throw in a handful of salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast.
+Skim it carefully, and when it has boiled hard a few minutes, hang
+the kettle higher, or diminish the fire under it, so as to let it
+simmer for about twenty-five or thirty minutes. Then drain it, and
+send it to table, garnished with alternate heaps of grated horseradish
+and curled parsley, and accompanied by a boat of egg-sauce.
+
+What is left of the halibut, you may prepare for the supper-table
+by mincing it when cold, and seasoning it with a dressing of salt,
+cayenne, sweet oil, hard-boiled yolk of egg, and a large
+proportion of vinegar.
+
+
+HALIBUT CUTLETS.
+
+Cut your halibut into steaks or cutlets about an inch thick. Wipe
+them with a dry cloth, and season them with salt and cayenne
+pepper. Have ready a pan of yolk of egg well beaten, and a large
+flat dish of grated bread crumbs.
+
+Put some fresh lard or clarified beef dripping into a frying pan,
+and hold it over a clear fire till it boils. Dip your cutlets into
+the beaten egg, and then into the bread crumbs. Fry them of a
+light brown. Serve them up hot, with the gravy in the bottom of
+the dish.
+
+Salmon or any large fish may be fried in the same manner.
+
+Halibut cutlets are very fine cut quite thin and fried in the best
+sweet oil, omitting the egg and bread crumbs.
+
+
+TO BROIL MACKEREL.
+
+Mackerel cannot be eaten in perfection except at the sea-side,
+where it can be had immediately out of the water. It loses its
+flavour in a very few hours, and spoils sooner than any other
+fish. Broiling is the best way of cooking it.
+
+Clean two fine fresh mackerel, and wipe them dry with a cloth.
+Split them open and rub them with salt. Spread some very bright
+coals on the hearth, and set the gridiron over them well greased.
+Lay on the mackerel, and broil them very nicely, taking care not
+to let them burn. When one side is quite done, turn them on the
+other. Lay them, on a hot dish, and butter and pepper them before
+they go to table. Garnish them with lumps or pats of minced
+paisley mixed with butter, pepper and salt.
+
+
+BOILED MACKEREL.
+
+Clean the mackerel well, and let them lie a short time in vinegar
+and water. Then put them into the fish-kettle with cold water and
+a handful of salt. Boil them slowly. If small, they will be
+sufficiently cooked in twenty minutes. When the eye starts and the
+tail splits they are done. Take them up immediately on finding
+them boiled enough. If they stand any time in the water they will
+break.
+
+Serve them up with parsley sauce, and garnish the dish with lumps
+of minced parsley.
+
+They are eaten with mustard.
+
+For boiling, choose those that have soft roes.
+
+Another way is to put them in cold salt and water, and let them
+warm gradually for an hour. Then give them one hard boil, and they
+will be done.
+
+
+TO BOIL SALT CODFISH.
+
+The day previous to that on which it is to be eaten, take the fish
+about four o'clock in the afternoon, and put it into a kettle of
+cold water. Then place it within the kitchen fire-place, so as to
+keep it blood-warm. Next morning at ten, take out the fish, scrub
+it clean with a hard brash, and put it into a kettle of fresh cold
+water, into which a jill of molasses has been stirred. The
+molasses will be found an improvement. Place the kettle again near
+the fire, until about twenty minutes before dinner. Then hang it
+over the fire, and boil it hard a quarter of an hour, or a little
+more.
+
+When done, drain it, and cut it into large pieces. Wrap them
+closely in a fine napkin and send them to table on a large dish,
+garnished round the edge with hard-boiled eggs, either cut in
+half, or in circular slices, yolks and whites together. Have ready
+in a small tureen, egg-sauce made with, drawn butter, thickened
+with hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Place on one side of the fish
+a dish of mashed potatoes, on the other a dish of boiled parsnips.
+
+The most usual way of preparing salt cod for eating when it comes
+to table, is (after picking out all the bones) to mince it fine on
+your plate, and mix it with mashed potato, parsnip, and egg-sauce;
+seasoning it to your taste with cayenne and mustard. What is left
+may be prepared for breakfast nest morning. It should be put into
+a skillet or spider, which must be well buttered inside, and set
+over hot coals to warm and brown. Or it may be made up into small
+cakes and fried.
+
+You may add to the mixture onions boiled and chopped.
+
+
+TO BOIL FRESH COD.
+
+Having washed and cleaned the fish, leave out the roe and liver;
+rub some salt on the inside, and if the weather is very cold you
+may keep it till next day. Put sufficient water in the fish-kettle
+to cover the fish very well, and add to the water a large handful
+of salt. As soon as the salt is entirely melted put in the fish. A
+very small codfish will be done in about twenty minutes, (after
+the water has boiled;) a large one will take half an hour, or
+more. Garnish with the roe and liver fried, or with scraped
+horseradish. Send it to table with oyster-sauce in a boat. Or you
+may make a sauce by flavouring your melted butter with a glass of
+port wine, and an anchovy boned and minced.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY OF BOILING FRESH COD.
+
+Put the fish into cold water with a handful of salt, and let it
+slowly and gradually warm for three hours if the cod is large, and
+two hours if it is small. Then increase the fire, and boil it hard
+for a few minutes only.
+
+
+BAKED SHAD.
+
+Keep on the head and fins. Make a force-meat or stuffing of grated
+bread crumbs, cold boiled ham or bacon minced fine, sweet
+marjoram, pepper, salt, and a little powdered mace or cloves.
+Moisten it with beaten yolk of egg. Stuff the inside of the fish
+with it, reserving a little to rub over the outside, having first
+rubbed the fish all over with yolk of egg. Lay the fish in a deep
+pan, putting its tail to its mouth. Pour into the bottom of the
+pan a little water, and add a jill of port wine, and a piece of
+butter rolled in flour. Bake it well, and when it is done, send it
+to table with the gravy poured round it. Garnish with slices of
+lemon.
+
+Any fish may be baked in the same manner.
+
+A large fish of ten or twelve pounds weight, will require about
+two hours baking.
+
+
+TO BROIL A SHAD.
+
+Split and wash the shad, and afterwards dry it in a cloth. Season
+it with salt and pepper. Have ready a bed of clear bright coals.
+Grease your gridiron well, and as soon as it is hot lay the shad
+upon it, and broil it for about a. quarter of an hour or more,
+according to the thickness. Butter it well, and send it to table.
+You may serve with it melted butter in a sauce-boat.
+
+Or you may cut it into three pieces and broil it without
+splitting. It will then, of course, require a longer time. If done
+in this manner, send it to table with melted butter poured over
+it.
+
+
+BOILED ROCK-FISH.
+
+Having cleaned the rock-fish, put it into a fish-kettle with water
+enough to cover it well, having first dissolved a handful of salt
+in the water. Set it over a moderate fire, and do not let it boil
+too fast. Skim it well.
+
+When done, drain it, and put it on a large dish. Have ready a few
+eggs boiled hard. Cut them in half, and lay them closely on the
+back of the fish in a straight line from the head to the tail.
+Send with it in a boat, celery sauce flavoured with a little
+cayenne.
+
+
+SEA BASS OR BLACK FISH.
+
+May be boiled and served up in the above manner.
+
+
+PICKLED ROCK-FISH.
+
+Have ready a large rock-fish. Put on your fish-kettle with a
+sufficiency of water to cover the fish amply; spring or pump water
+is best. As soon as the water boils, throw in a tea-cup full of
+salt, and put in the fish. Boil it gently for about half an hour,
+skimming it well. Then take it out, and drain it, laying it
+slantingly. Reserve a part of the water in which the fish has been
+boiled, and season it to your taste with whole cloves, allspice,
+and mace. Boil it up to extract the strength from the spice, and
+after it has boiled add to it an equal quantity of the best
+vinegar. You must have enough of this liquid to cover the fish
+again. When the fish is quite cold, cut off the head and tail, and
+cut the body into large pieces, extracting the back-bone. Put it
+into a stone jar, and when the spiced liquor is cold, pour it on
+the fish, cover the jar closely, and set it in a cool place. It
+will be fit for use in a day or two, and if well secured from the
+air, and put into a cold place will keep a fortnight.
+
+
+FRIED PERCH.
+
+Having cleaned the fish and dried them, with a cloth, lay them,
+side by side, on a board or large dish; sprinkle them with salt,
+and dredge them with flour. After a while turn them, and salt and
+dredge the other side. Put some lard or fresh beef-dripping into a
+frying-pan, and hold it over the fire. When the lard boils, put in
+the fish and fry them of a yellowish brown. Send to table with
+them in a boat, melted butter flavoured with anchovy.
+
+Flounders or other small fish may be fried in the same manner.
+
+You may know when the lard or dripping is hot enough, by dipping
+in the tail of one of the fish. If it becomes crisp immediately,
+the lard is in a proper state for frying. Or you may try it with a
+piece of stale bread which will become brown directly, if the lard
+is in order.
+
+There should always be enough of lard to cover the fish entirely.
+After they have fried five minutes on one side, turn them and fry
+them five minutes on the other. Skim the lard or dripping always
+before you put in the fish.
+
+
+TO FRY TROUT.
+
+Having cleaned the fish, and cut off the fins, dredge them with
+flour. Have ready some beaten yolk of egg, and in a separate dish
+some grated bread crumbs. Dip each fish into the egg, and then
+strew them with bread crumbs. Put some butter or fresh beef-dripping
+into a frying-pan, and hold it over the fire till it is
+boiling hot; then, (having skimmed it,) put in the fish and fry
+them.
+
+Prepare some melted butter with a spoonful of mushroom-catchup and
+a spoonful of lemon-pickle stirred into it. Send it to table in a
+sauce-boat to eat with the fish.
+
+You may fry carp and flounders in the same manner.
+
+
+TO BOIL TROUT.
+
+Put a handful of salt into the water. When it boils put in the
+trout. Boil them fast about twenty minutes, according to their
+size.
+
+For sauce, send with them melted butter, and put some soy into it;
+or flavour it with catchup.
+
+
+FRIED SEA BASS.
+
+Score the fish on the back with a knife, and season them with salt
+and cayenne pepper. Cut some small onions in round slices, and
+chop fine a bunch of parsley. Put some butter into a frying-pan
+over the fire, and when it is boiling hot lay in the fish. When
+they are about half done put the onions and parsley into the pan.
+Keep turning the fish that the onions and parsley may adhere to
+both sides. When quite done, put them into the dish in which they
+are to go to table, and garnish the edge of the dish with hard
+boiled eggs cut in round slices.
+
+Make in the pan in which they have been fried, a gravy, by adding
+some butter rolled in flour, and a small quantity of vinegar. Pour
+it into the dish with the fish.
+
+
+STURGEON CUTLETS OR STEAKS.
+
+This is the most approved way of dressing sturgeon. Carefully take
+off the skin, as its oiliness will give the fish a strong and
+disagreeable taste when cooked. Cut from the tail-piece slices
+about half an inch thick, rub them with salt, and broil them over
+a clear fire of bright coals. Butter them, sprinkle them with
+cayenne pepper, and send them to table hot, garnished with sliced
+lemon, as lemon-juice is generally squeezed over them when eaten.
+
+Another way is to make a seasoning of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs,
+pepper and salt. First dip the slices of sturgeon, in beaten yolk
+of egg, then cover them with seasoning, wrap them up closely in
+sheets of white paper well buttered, broil them over a clear fire,
+and send them to table either with or without the papers.
+
+
+STEWED CARP.
+
+Having cut off the head, tail, and fins, season the carp with
+salt, peppers and powdered mace, both, inside and out. Rub the
+seasoning on very well, and let them lay in it an hour, Then put
+them into a stew-pan with a little parsley shred fine, a whole
+onion, a little sweet marjoram, a tea-cup of thick cream or very
+rich milk, and a lump of butter rolled in flour. Pour in
+sufficient water to cover the carp, and let it stew half an hour.
+
+Perch may be done in the same way.
+
+You may dress a piece of sturgeon in this manner, but you must
+first boil it for twenty minutes to extract the oil. Take off the
+skin before you proceed to stew the fish.
+
+
+CHOWDER.
+
+Take a pound or more of salt pork, and having half boiled it, cut
+it into slips, and with some of them cover the bottom of a pot.
+Then strew on some sliced onion. Have ready a large fresh cod, or
+an equal quantity of haddock, tutaug, or any other firm fish. Cut
+the fish into large pieces, and lay part of it on the pork and
+onions. Season it with pepper. Then cover it with a layer of
+biscuit, or crackers that have been previously soaked in milk or
+water. You may add also a layer of sliced potatoes.
+
+Next proceed with a second layer of pork, onions, fish, &c. and
+continue as before till the pot is nearly full; finishing with
+soaked crackers. Pour in about a pint and a half of cold water.
+Cover it close, set it on hot coals, and let it simmer about an
+hour. Then skim it, and turn it out into a deep dish. Leave the
+gravy in the pot till you have thickened it with a piece of butter
+rolled in flour, and some chopped parsley. Then give it one boil
+up, and pour it hot into the dish.
+
+Chowder may be made of clams, first cutting off the hard part.
+
+
+
+
+SHELL FISH
+
+
+PICKLED OYSTERS.
+
+Take a hundred and fifty fine large oysters, and pick off
+carefully the bits of shell that may be sticking to them. Lay the
+oysters in a deep dish, and then strain the liquor over them. Put
+them into an iron skillet that is lined with porcelain, and add
+salt to your taste. Without salt they will not be firm enough. Set
+the skillet on hot coals, and allow the oysters to simmer till
+they are heated all through, but not till they boil. Then take out
+the oysters and put them into a stone jar, leaving the liquor in
+the skillet. Add to it a pint of clear strong vinegar, a large
+tea-spoonful of blades of mace, three dozen whole cloves, and
+three dozen whole pepper corns. Let it come to a boil, and when
+the oysters are quite cold in the jar, pour the liquor oh them.
+
+They are fit for use immediately, but are better the next day. In
+cold weather they will keep a week.
+
+If you intend sending them a considerable distance you must allow
+the oysters to boil, and double the proportions of the pickle and
+spice.
+
+
+FRIED OYSTERS.
+
+Get the largest and finest oysters. After they are taken from the
+shell wipe each of them quite dry with a cloth. Then beat up in a
+pan yolk of egg and milk, (in the proportion of two yolks to half
+a jill or a wine glass of milk,) and grate some stale broad grated
+very fine in a large flat dish. Cut up at least half a pound of
+fresh butter in the frying-pan, and hold it over the fire till it
+is boiling hot. Dip the oysters all over lightly in the mixture of
+egg and milk, and then roll them up and down in the grated bread,
+making as many crumbs stick to them as you can.
+
+Put them into the frying-pan of hot butter, and keep it over a hot
+fire. Fry them brown, turning them that they may be equally
+browned on both sides. If properly done they will be crisp, and
+not greasy.
+
+Serve them, dry in a hot dish, and do not pour over them the
+butter that may be left in the pan when they are fried.
+
+Oysters are very good taken out of the shells and broiled on a
+gridiron.
+
+
+SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.
+
+Having grated a sufficiency of stale bread, butter a deep dish,
+and line the sides and bottom thickly with bread crumbs. Then put
+in a layer of seasoned oysters, with a few very small bits of
+butter on them. Cover them thickly with crumbs, and put in another
+layer of oysters and butter, till the dish is filled up, having a
+thick layer of crumbs on the top. Put the dish into an oven, and
+bake them a very short time, or they will shrivel. Serve them up
+hot.
+
+You may bake them in large clam shells, or in the tin scollop
+shells made for the purpose. Butter the bottom of each shell;
+sprinkle it with bread crumbs; lay on the oysters seasoned with
+cayenne and nutmeg, and put a morsel of butter on each. Fill up
+the shells with a little of the oyster liquor thickened with bread
+crumbs, and set them on a gridiron over coals, browning them
+afterwards with a red-hot shovel.
+
+
+STEWED OYSTERS.
+
+Put the oysters into a sieve, and set it on a pan to drain the
+liquor from them. Then cut off the hard part, and put the oysters
+into a stew-pan with some whole pepper, a few blades of mace, and
+some grated nutmeg. Add a small piece of butter rolled in flour.
+Then pour over them about half of the liquor, or a little more.
+Set the pan on hot coals, and simmer them gently about five
+minutes. Try one, and if it tastes raw cook them a little longer.
+Make some thin slices of toast, having cut off all the crust.
+Butter the toast and lay it in the bottom of a deep dish. Put the
+oysters upon it with the liquor in which they were stewed.
+
+The liquor of oysters should never be thickened by stirring in
+flour. It spoils the taste, and gives them a sodden and
+disagreeable appearance, and is no longer practised by good cooks.
+
+
+OYSTER FRITTERS.
+
+Have ready some of the finest and largest oysters; drain them from
+the liquor and wipe them dry.
+
+Beat six eggs very light, and stir into them gradually six table-spoonfuls
+of line sifted flour. Add by degrees a pint and a half
+of rich milk and some grated nutmeg, and beat it to a smooth
+batter.
+
+Make your frying-pan very hot, and put into it a piece of butter
+or lard. When it has melted and begins to froth, put in a small
+ladle-full of the batter, drop an oyster in the middle of it, and
+fry it of a light brown. Send them to table hot.
+
+If you find your batter too thin, so that it spreads too much in
+the frying-pan, add a little more flour beaten well into it. If it
+is too thick, thin it with some additional milk.
+
+
+OYSTER PIE.
+
+Make a puff-paste, in the proportion of a pound and a half of
+fresh butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out rather
+thick, into two sheets. Butter a deep dish, and line the bottom
+and sides of it with paste. Fill it up with crusts of bread for
+the purpose of supporting the lid while it is baking, as the
+oysters will be too much done if they are cooked in the pie. Cover
+it with the other sheet of paste, having first buttered the flat
+rim of the dish. Notch the edges of the pie handsomely, or
+ornament them with leaves of paste which you may form with tin
+cutters made for the purpose. Make a little slit in the middle of
+the lid, and stick firmly into it a paste tulip or other flower.
+Put the dish into a moderate oven, and while the paste is baking
+prepare the oysters, which should he large and fresh. Put them
+into a stew-pan with half their liquor thickened with yolk of egg
+boiled hard and grated, enriched with pieces of butter rolled in
+bread crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg. Stew the oysters
+five minutes. When the paste is baked, carefully take off the lid,
+remove the pieces of bread, and put in the oysters and gravy.
+Replace the lid, and send the pie to table warm.
+
+
+TO BOIL A LOBSTER.
+
+Put a handful of salt into a large kettle or pot of boiling water.
+When the water boils very hard put in the lobster, having first
+brushed it, and tied the claws together with a bit of twine. Keep
+it boiling from half an hour to an hour in proportion to its size.
+If boiled too long the meat will be hard and stringy. When it is
+done, take it out, lay it on its claws to drain, and then wipe it
+dry. Send it to table cold, with the body and tail split open, and
+the claws taken off. Lay the large claws next to the body, and the
+small ones outside. Garnish with double parsley.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to mention that the head of a lobster,
+and what are called the lady-fingers are not to be eaten.
+
+
+TO DRESS LOBSTER COLD.
+
+Put a table-spoonful of cold water on a clean plate and with the
+back of a wooden spoon mash into it the coral or scarlet meat of
+the lobster, adding a salt-spoonful of salt, and about the same
+quantity of cayenne. On another part of the plate mix well
+together with the back of the spoon two table-spoonfuls of sweet
+oil, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard. Then mix the whole till
+they are well incorporated and perfectly smooth, adding, at the
+last, three table-spoonfuls of vinegar.
+
+This quantity of seasoning is for a small lobster. For a large
+one, more of course will be required. Many persons add a tea-spoonful
+of powdered white sugar, thinking that it gives a
+mellowness to the whole.
+
+The meat of the body and claws of the lobster must be carefully
+extracted from the shell and minced very small When the dressing
+is smoothly and thoroughly amalgamated mix the meat with it, and
+let it be handed round to the company.
+
+The vinegar from a jar of Indian pickle is by some preferred for
+lobster dressing.
+
+You may dress the lobster immediately _before_ you send it to
+table. When the dressing and meat are mixed together, pile it in a
+deep dish, and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Stick a bunch
+of the small claws in the top, and garnish with curled parsley.
+
+Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being coarse and
+tough.
+
+
+STEWED LOBSTER.
+
+Having boiled the lobster, extract the meat from the shell, and
+cut it into very small pieces. Season it with a powdered nutmeg, a
+few blades of mace, and cayenne and salt to your taste. Mix with
+it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter cut small, and two glasses
+of white wine or of vinegar. Put it into a stew-pan, and set it on
+hot coals. Stew it about twenty minutes, keeping the pan closely
+covered lest the flavour should evaporate. Serve it up hot.
+
+If you choose, you can send it to table in the shell, which must
+first be nicely cleaned. Strew the meat over with sifted bread-crumbs,
+and brown the top with a salamander, or a red hot shovel
+held over it.
+
+
+FRICASSEED LOBSTER.
+
+Put the lobster into boiling salt and water, and let it boil
+according to its size from a quarter of an hour to half an hour.
+The intention is to have it parboiled only, as it is afterwards to
+be fricasseed. Extract the meat from the shell, and cut it into
+small pieces. Season it with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and
+put it into a stew-pan with as much cream as will cover it. Keep
+the lid close; set the pan on hot coals, and stew it slowly for
+about as long a time as it was previously boiled. Just before you
+take it from the fire, stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Send it
+to table in a small dish placed on a larger one, and arrange the
+small claws nicely round it on the large dish.
+
+
+POTTED LOBSTER.
+
+Parboil the lobster in boiling water well salted. Then pick out
+all the meat from the body and claws, and beat it in a mortar with
+nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt, to your taste. Beat the coral
+separately. Then put the pounded meat into a large potting can of
+block tin with a cover. Press it down hard, having arranged it in
+alternate layers of white meat and coral to give it a marbled or
+variegated appearance. Cover it with fresh butter, and put it into
+a slow oven for half an hour. When cold, take off the butter and
+clarify it, by putting it into a jar, which, must be set in a pan
+of boiling water. Watch it well, and when it melts, carefully skim
+off the buttermilk which will rise to the top. When no more scum
+rises, take it off and let it stand for a few minutes to settle,
+and then strain it through a sieve.
+
+Put the lobster into small potting-cans, pressing it down very
+hard. Pour the clarified butter over it, and secure the covers
+tightly.
+
+Potted lobster is used to lay between thin slices of bread as
+sandwiches. The clarified butter that accompanies it is excellent
+for fish sauce.
+
+Prawns and crabs may be potted in a similar manner.
+
+
+LOBSTER PIE.
+
+Put two middle-sized lobsters into boiling salt and water. When
+they are half boiled, take the meat from the shell, cut it into
+very small pieces, and put it into a pie dish. Break up the
+shells, and stew them in a very little water with half a dozen
+blades of mace and a wine-glass of vinegar. Then strain off the
+liquid. Beat the coral in a mortar, and thicken the liquid with
+it. Pour this into the dish of lobster to make the gravy. Season
+it with cayenne, salt, and mushroom catchup, and add bits of
+butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, made in the proportion of
+half a pound of butter to a pound of flour, notched handsomely,
+and ornamented with paste leaves. Do not send it to table till it
+has cooled.
+
+
+TO BOIL PRAWNS.
+
+Throw a handful of salt into a pot of boiling water. When it boils
+very hard, put in the prawns. Let them boil a quarter of an hour,
+and when you take them out lay them on a sieve to drain, and then
+wipe them on a dry cloth, and put them aside till quite cold.
+
+Lay a handful of curled parsley in the middle of a dish. Put one
+prawn on the top of it, and lay the others, all round, as close as
+you can, with the tails outside. Garnish with parsley.
+
+Eat them with salt, cayenne, sweet oil, mustard and vinegar, mixed
+together as for lobsters.
+
+
+CRABS
+
+Crabs are boiled in the same manner, and in serving up may be
+arranged like prawns.
+
+
+HOT CRABS.
+
+Having boiled the crabs, extract all the meat from the shell, cut
+it fine, and season it to your taste with nutmeg, salt, and
+cayenne pepper. Add a bit of butter, some grated bread crumbs, and
+sufficient vinegar to moisten it. Fill the back-shells of the crab
+with the mixture; set it before the fire, and brown it by holding
+a red-hot shovel or a salamander a little above it.
+
+Cover a large dish, with small slices of dry toast with the crust
+cut off. Lay on each slice a shell filled with the crab. The shell
+of one crab will contain the meat of two.
+
+
+COLD CRABS.
+
+Having taken all the meat out of the shells, make a dressing with
+sweet oil, salt, cayenne pepper, mustard and vinegar, as for
+lobster. You may add to it some hard-boiled yolk of egg, mashed in
+the oil. Put the mixture into the back shells of the crabs, and
+serve it up. Garnish with the small claws laid nicely round.
+
+
+SOFT CRABS.
+
+These crabs must be cooked directly, as they will not keep till
+next day.
+
+Remove the spongy substance from each side of the crab, and also
+the little sand-bag. Put some lard into a pan, and when it is
+boiling hot, fry the crabs in it. After you take them out, throw
+in a handful of parsley, and let it crisp; but withdraw it before
+it loses its colour. Strew it over the crabs when you dish them.
+
+Make the gravy by adding cream or rich milk to the lard, with some
+chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Let them all boil together for a
+few minutes, and then serve it up in a sauce-boat.
+
+
+TERRAPINS.
+
+Have ready a pot of boiling water. When it is boiling very hard
+put in the terrapins, and let them remain in it till quite dead.
+Then take them out, pull off the outer skin and the toe-nails,
+wash the terrapins in warm water and boil them again, allowing a
+tea-spoonful of salt to each terrapin. When the flesh becomes
+quite tender so that you can pinch it off, take them out of the
+shell, remove the sand-bag, and the gall, which you must be
+careful not to break, as it will make the terrapin so bitter as to
+be uneatable. Cut up all the other parts of the inside with the
+meat, and season it to your taste with black and cayenne pepper,
+and salt. Put all into a stew-pan with the juice or liquor that it
+has given out in cutting up, but not any water. To every two
+terrapins allow a quarter of a pound of butter divided into pieces
+and rolled in flour, two glasses of Madeira, and the yolks of two
+eggs. The eggs must be beaten, and not stirred in till a moment
+before it goes to table. Keep it closely covered. Stew it gently
+till every thing is tender, and serve it up hot in a deep dish.
+
+Terrapins, after being boiled by the cook, may be brought to table
+plain, with all the condiments separate, that the company may
+dress them according to taste.
+
+For this purpose heaters or chafing-dishes must be provided for
+each plate.
+
+
+PICKLED LOBSTER.
+
+Take half a dozen fine lobsters. Put them into boiling salt and
+water, and when they are all done, take them out and extract all
+the meat from the shells, leaving that of the claws as whole as
+possible, and cutting the flesh of the body into large pieces
+nearly of the same size. Season a sufficient quantity of vinegar
+very highly with whole pepper-corns, whole cloves, and whole
+blades of mace. Put the pieces of lobster into a stew-pan, and
+pour on just sufficient vinegar to keep them well covered. Set it
+over a moderate fire; and when it has boiled hard about five
+minutes, take out the lobster, and let the pickle boil by itself
+for a quarter of an hour. When the pickle and lobster are both
+cold, put them together into a broad flat stone jar. Cover it
+closely, and set it away in a cool place.
+
+Eat the pickled lobster with oil, mustard, and vinegar, and have
+bread and butter with it.
+
+
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.
+
+
+BEEF.
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+When beef is good, it will have a fine smooth open grain, and it
+will feel tender when squeezed or pinched in your fingers. The
+lean should be of a bright carnation red, and the fat white rather
+than yellow--the suet should be perfectly white. If the lean looks
+dark or purplish, and the fat very yellow, do not buy the meat.
+
+See that the butcher has properly jointed the meat before it goes
+home. For good tables, the pieces generally roasted are the
+sirloin and the fore and middle ribs. In genteel houses other
+parts are seldom served up as _roast-beef_. In small families
+the ribs are the most convenient pieces. A whole sirloin is too
+large, except for a numerous company, but it is the piece most
+esteemed.
+
+The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs, or from the
+inner part of the sirloin. All other pieces are, for this purpose,
+comparatively hard and tough.
+
+The round is generally corned or salted, and boiled. It is also
+used for the dish called beef a-la-mode.
+
+The legs make excellent soup; the head and tail are also used for
+that purpose.
+
+The tongue when fresh is never cooked except for mince-pies.
+Corned or salted it is seldom liked, as in that state it has a
+faint sickly taste that few persons can relish. But when pickled
+and afterwards smoked (the only good way of preparing a tongue) it
+is highly and deservedly esteemed.
+
+The other pieces of the animal are generally salted and boiled. Or
+when fresh they may be used for soup or stews, if not too fat.
+
+If the state of the weather will allow you to keep fresh beef two
+or three days, rub it with salt, and wrap it in a cloth.
+
+In summer do not attempt to keep it more than twenty-four hours;
+and not then unless you can conveniently lay it in ice, or in a
+spring-house.
+
+In winter if the beef is brought from market frozen, do not cook
+it that day unless you dine very late, as it will be impossible to
+get it sufficiently done--meat that has been frozen requiring
+double the usual time. To thaw it, lay it in cold water, which is
+the only way to extract the frost without injuring the meat. It
+should remain in the water three hours, or more.
+
+
+TO ROAST BEEF.
+
+The fire should be prepared at least half an hour before the beef
+is put down, and it should be large, steady, clear, and bright,
+with plenty of fine hot coals at the bottom.
+
+The best apparatus for the purpose is the well-known roaster
+frequently called a tin-kitchen.
+
+Wash the meat in cold water, and then wipe it dry, and rub it with
+salt. Take care not to run the spit through the best parts of it.
+It is customary with some cooks to tie blank paper over the fat,
+to prevent it from melting and wasting too fast.
+
+Put it evenly into the roaster, and do not set it too near the
+fire, lest the outside of the meat should be burned before the
+inside is heated.
+
+Put some nice beef-dripping or some lard into the pan or bottom of
+the roaster, and as soon as it melts begin to baste the beef with
+it; taking up the liquid with a long spoon, and pouring it over
+the meat so as to let it trickle down again, into the pan. Repeat
+this frequently while it is roasting; after a while you can baste
+it with its own fat. Turn the spit often, so that the meat may be
+equally done on all sides.
+
+Once or twice draw back the roaster, and improve the fire by
+clearing away the ashes, bringing forward the hot coals, and
+putting on fresh fuel at the back. Should a coal fall into the
+dripping-pan take it out immediately. An allowance of about twenty
+minutes to each pound of meat is the time commonly given for
+roasting; but this rule, like most others, admits of exceptions
+according to circumstances. Also, some persons like their meat
+very much done; others prefer it rare, as it is called. In summer,
+meat will roast in a shorter time than in winter.
+
+When the beef is nearly done, and the steam draws towards the
+fire, remove the paper that has covered the fat part, sprinkle on
+a little salt, and having basted the meat well with the dripping,
+pour off nicely (through the spout of the roaster) all the liquid
+fat from the top of the gravy.
+
+Lastly, dredge the meat very lightly with a little flour, and
+baste it with fresh butter. This will give it a delicate froth. To
+the gravy that is now running from the meat add nothing but a tea-cup
+of boiling water. Skim it, and send it to table in a boat.
+Serve up with the beef in a small deep plate, scraped horseradish
+moistened with vinegar.
+
+Fat meat requires more roasting than lean, and meat that has been
+frozen will take nearly double the usual time.
+
+Basting the meat continually with flour and water is a bad
+practice, as it gives it a coddled parboiled appearance, and
+diminishes the flavour.
+
+These directions for roasting beef will apply equally to mutton.
+
+Pickles are generally eaten with roast beef. French mustard is an
+excellent condiment for it. In carving begin by cutting a slice
+from the side.
+
+
+TO SAVE BEEF-DRIPPING.
+
+Pour off through the spout of the roaster or tin-kitchen, all the
+fat from the top of the gravy, after you have done basting the
+meat with it. Hold a little sieve under the spout, and strain the
+dripping through it into a pan. Set it away in a cool place; and
+next day when it is cold and congealed, turn the cake of fat, and
+scrape with a knife the sediment from the bottom. Pat the dripping
+into a jar; cover it tightly, and set it away in the refrigerator,
+or in the coldest place you have. It will be found useful for
+frying, and for many other purposes.
+
+Mutton-dripping cannot be used for any sort of cooking, as it
+communicates to every thing the taste of tallow.
+
+
+BAKED BEEF.
+
+This is a plain family dish, and is never provided for company.
+
+Take a nice but not a fat piece of fresh beef. Wash it, rub it
+with salt, and place it on a trivet in a deep block tin or iron
+pan. Pour a little water into the bottom, and put under and round
+the trivet a sufficiency of pared potatoes, either white or sweet
+ones. Put it into a hot oven, and let it bake till thoroughly
+done, basting it frequently with its own gravy. Then transfer it
+to a hot dish, and serve up the potatoes in another. Skim the
+gravy, and send it to table in a boat.
+
+Or you may boil the potatoes, mash them with milk, and put them
+into the bottom of the pan about half an hour before the meat is
+done baking. Press down the mashed potatoes hard with the back of
+a spoon, score them in cross lines over the top, and let them,
+brown under the meat, serving them up laid round it.
+
+Instead of potatoes, you may put in the bottom of the pan what is
+called a Yorkshire pudding, to be baked under the meat.
+
+To make this pudding,--stir gradually four table-spoonfuls of
+flour into a pint of milk, adding a salt-spoon of salt. Beat three
+eggs very light, and mix them gradually with the milk and flour.
+See that the batter is not lumpy. Do not put the pudding under the
+meat at first, as if baked too long it will be hard and solid.
+After the meat has baked till the pan is quite hot and well
+greased with the drippings, you may put in the batter; having
+continued stirring it till the last moment.
+
+If the pudding is so spread over the pan as to be but an inch
+thick, it will require about two hours baking, and need not be
+turned. If it is thicker than an inch, you must (after it is brown
+on the top) loosen it in the pan, by inserting a knife beneath it,
+and having cut it across into four pieces, turn them all nicely
+that the other side may be equally done. But this pudding is
+lighter and better if laid so thin as not to require turning.
+
+When you serve up the beef lay the pieces of pudding round it, to
+be eaten with the meat.
+
+Veal may be baked in this manner with potatoes or a pudding. Also
+fresh pork.
+
+
+TO BOIL CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.
+
+The best piece is the round. You may either boil it whole, or
+divide it into two, or even three pieces if it is large, taking
+care that each piece shall have a portion of the fat. Wash it
+well; and, if very salt, soak it in two waters. Skewer it up
+tightly and in a good compact shape, wrapping the flap piece
+firmly round it. Tie it round with broad strong tape, or with a
+strip of coarse linen. Put it into a large pot, and cover it well
+with water. It will be found a convenience to lay it on a fish
+drainer.
+
+Hang it over a moderate fire that it may heat gradually all
+through. Carefully take off the scum as it rises, and when no more
+appears, keep the pot closely covered, and let it boil slowly and
+regularly, with the fire at an equal temperature. Allow three
+hours and a half to a piece weighing about twelve pounds, and from
+that to four or five hours in proportion to the size. Turn the
+meat twice in the pot while it is boiling. Put in some carrots and
+turnips about two hours after the meat. Many persons boil cabbage
+in the same pot with the beef, but it is a much nicer way to do
+the greens in a separate vessel, lest they become saturated with
+the liquid fat. Cauliflower or brocoli (which are frequent
+accompaniments to corned beef) should never be boiled with it.
+
+Wash the cabbage in cold water, removing the outside leaves, and
+cutting the stalk close. Examine all the leaves carefully, lest
+insects should be lodged among them. If the cabbage is large,
+divide it into quarters. Put it into a pot of boiling water with a
+handful of salt, and boil it till the stalk is quite tender. Half
+an hour will generally be sufficient for a small young cabbage; an
+hour for a large full-grown one. Drain it well before you dish it.
+If boiled separately from the meat, have ready some melted butter
+to eat with it.
+
+Should you find the beef under-done, you may reboil it next day;
+putting it into boiling-water and letting it simmer for half an
+hour or more, according to its size.
+
+Cold corned beef will keep very well for some days wrapped in
+several folds of a thick linen cloth, and set away in a cool dry
+place.
+
+In carving a round of beef, slice it horizontally and very thin.
+Do not help any one to the outside pieces, as they are generally
+too hard and salt. French mustard is very nice with corned beef.
+[Footnote: French mustard is made of the very best mustard powder,
+diluted with vinegar, and flavoured with minced tarragon leaves,
+and a minced clove of garlic; all mixed with a wooden spoon.]
+
+This receipt will apply equally to any piece of corned beef,
+except that being less solid than the round, they will, in
+proportion to their weight, require rather less time to boil.
+
+In dishing the meat, remove the wooden skewers and substitute
+plated or silver ones.
+
+Many persons think it best (and they are most probably right) to
+stew corned beef rather than to boil it. If you intend to stew it,
+put no more water in the pot than will barely cover the meat, and
+keep it gently simmering over a slow fire for four, five, or six
+hours, according to the size of the piece.
+
+
+TO BROIL BEEF-STEAKS.
+
+The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs or from the
+inside of the sirloin. All other parts are for this purpose
+comparatively hard and tough.
+
+They should be cut about three quarters of an inch thick, and,
+unless the beef is remarkably fine and tender, the steaks will be
+much improved by beating them on both sides with a steak mallet,
+or with a rolling-pin. Do not season them till you take them from
+the fire.
+
+Have ready on your hearth a fine bed of clear bright coals,
+entirely free from smoke and ashes. Set the gridiron over the
+coals in a slanting direction, that the meat may not be smoked by
+the fat dropping into the fire directly under it. When the
+gridiron is quite hot, rub the bars with suet, sprinkle a little
+salt over the coals, and lay on the steaks. Turn them frequently
+with a pair of steak-tongs, or with a knife and fork. A quarter of
+an hour is generally sufficient time to broil & beef-steak. For
+those who like them under-done or rare, ten or twelve minutes will
+be enough.
+
+When the fat blazes and smokes very much as it drips into the
+fire, quickly remove the gridiron for a moment, till the blaze has
+subsided. After they are browned, cover the upper side of the
+steaks with an inverted plate or dish to prevent the flavour from
+evaporating. Rub a dish with a shalot, or small onion, and place
+it near the gridiron and close to the fire, that it may be well
+heated. In turning the steak drop the gravy that may be standing
+on it into this dish, to save it from being lost. When the steaks
+are done, sprinkle them with a little salt and pepper, and lay
+them in a hot dish, putting on each a piece of fresh butter. Then,
+if it is liked, season them with, a very little raw shalot, minced
+as finely as possible, and moistened with a spoonful of water; and
+stir a tea-spoonful of catchup into the gravy. Send the steaks to
+table very hot, in a covered dish. You may serve up with them
+onion sauce in a small tureen.
+
+Pickles are frequently eaten with beef-steaks.
+
+Mutton chops may be broiled in the same manner.
+
+
+TO FRY BEEF-STEAKS.
+
+Beef-steaks for frying should be cut thinner than for broiling.
+Take them from the ribs or sirloin, and remove the bone. Beat them
+to make them tender. Season them with salt and pepper.
+
+Put some fresh butter, or nice beef-dripping into a frying pan,
+and hold it over a clear bright fire till it boils and has done
+hissing. Then put in the steaks, and (if you like them) some
+sliced onions. Fry them about a quarter of an hour, turning them
+frequently. Steaks, when fried, should be thoroughly done. After
+they are browned, cover them with a large plate to keep in the
+juices,
+
+Have ready a hot dish, and when they are done, take out the steaks
+and onions and lay them in it with another dish on the top, to
+keep them hot while you give the gravy in the pan another boil up
+over the fire. You may add to it a spoonful of mushroom catchup.
+Pour the gravy over the steakes, and send them to table as hot as
+possible.
+
+Mutton chops may be fried in this manner.
+
+
+BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.
+
+For a small pudding take a pound of fresh beef suet. Clear it from
+the skin and the stringy fibres, and mince it as finely as
+possible. Sift into a large pan two pounds of fine flour, and add
+the suet gradually, rubbing it fine with your hands and mixing it
+thoroughly. Then pour in, by degrees, enough of cold water to make
+a stiff dough. Roll it out into a large even sheet. Have ready
+about a pound and a half of the best beef-steak, omitting the bone
+and fat which should be all cut off. Divide the steak into small
+thin pieces, and beat them well to make them tender. Season them
+with pepper and salt, and, if convenient, add some mushrooms. Lay
+the beef in the middle of the sheet of paste, and put on the top a
+bit of butter rolled in flour. Close the paste nicely over the
+meat as if you were making a large dumpling. Dredge with flour a
+thick square cloth, and tie the pudding up in it, leaving space
+for it to swell. Fasten the string very firmly, and stop up with
+flour the little gap at the tying-place so that no water can get
+in. Have ready a large pot of boiling water. Put the pudding into
+it, and let it boil fast three hours or more. Keep up a good fire
+under it, as if it stops boiling a minute the crust will be heavy.
+Have a kettle of boiling water at the fire to replenish the pot if
+it wastes too much. Do not take up the pudding till the moment
+before it goes to table. Mix some catchup with the gravy on your
+plate.
+
+For a large pudding you must have two pounds of suet, three pounds
+of flour, and two pounds and a half of meat. It must boil at least
+five hours.
+
+All the fat must be removed from the meat before it goes into the
+pudding, as the gravy cannot be skimmed when enclosed in the
+crust.
+
+You may boil in the pudding some potatoes cut into slices.
+
+A pudding of the lean of mutton chops may be made in the same
+manner; also of venison steaks.
+
+
+A BEEF-STEAK PIE.
+
+Make a good paste in the proportion of a pound of butter to two
+pounds of sifted flour. Divide it in half, and line with one sheet
+of it the bottom and sides of a deep dish, which must first be
+well buttered. Have ready two pounds of the best beef-steak, cut
+thin, and well beaten; the bone and fat being omitted. Season it
+with pepper and salt. Spread a layer of the steak at the bottom of
+the pie, and on it a layer of sliced potato, and a few small bits
+of butter rolled in flour. Then another layer of meat, potato,
+&c., till the dish is full. You may greatly improve the flavour by
+adding mushrooms, or chopped clams or oysters, leaving out the
+hard parts. If you use clams or oysters, moisten the other
+ingredients with a little of their liquor. If not, pour in, at the
+last, half a pint of cold water, or less if the pie is small.
+Cover the pie with the other sheet of paste as a lid, and notch
+the edges handsomely, having reserved a little of the paste to
+make a flower or tulip to stick in the slit at the top. Bake it in
+a quick oven an hour and a quarter, or longer, in proportion to
+its size. Send it to table hot.
+
+You may make a similar pie of mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or
+venison steaks, always leaving out the bone and fat.
+
+Many persons in making pies stew the meat slowly in a little water
+till about half done, and they then put it with its gravy into the
+paste and finish by baking. In this case add no water to the pie,
+as there will be already sufficient liquid If you half-stew the
+meat, do the potatoes with it.
+
+
+A-LA-MODE BEEF.
+
+Take the bone out of a round of fresh beef, and beat the meat well
+all over to make it tender. Chop and mix together equal quantities
+of sweet marjoram and sweet basil, the leaves picked from the
+stalks and rubbed fine. Chop also some small onions or shalots,
+and some parsley; the marrow from the bone of the beef; and a
+quarter of a pound, or more of suet. Add two penny rolls of stale
+bread grated; and pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. Mix all
+these ingredients well, and bind them together with the beaten
+yolks of four eggs. Fill with this seasoning the place from whence
+you took out the bone; and rub what is left of it all over the
+outside of the meat. You must, of course, proportion the quantity
+of stuffing to the size of the round of beef. Fasten it well with
+skewers, and tie it round firmly with a piece of tape, so as to
+keep it compact and in good shape. It is best to prepare the meat
+the day before it is to be cooked.
+
+Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of bacon. Lay the beef
+upon them, and cover the top of the meat with more slices of
+bacon. Place round it four large onions, four carrots, and four
+turnips, all cut in thick slices. Pour in from half a pint to a
+pint of water, and if convenient, add two calves' feet cut in
+half. Cover the pan closely, set it in an oven and let it bake for
+at least six hours; or seven or eight, according to the size.
+
+When it is thoroughly done, take out the beef and lay it on a dish
+with the vegetables round it. Remove the bacon and calves' feet,
+and (having skimmed the fat from the gravy carefully) strain it
+into a small sauce-pan; set it on hot coals, and stir into it a
+tea-cupful of port wine, and the same quantity of pickled
+mushrooms. Let it just come to a boil, and then send it to table
+in a sauce-tureen.
+
+If the beef is to be eaten cold, you may ornament it as follows:--
+Glaze it all over with beaten white of egg. Then cover it with a
+coat of boiled potato grated finely. Have ready some slices of
+cold boiled carrot, and also of beet-root. Cut them into the form
+of stars or flowers, and arrange them handsomely over the top of
+the meat by sticking them on the grated potato. In the centre
+place a large bunch of double parsley, interspersed with flowers
+cut out of raw turnips, beets, and carrots, somewhat in imitation
+of white and red roses, and marygolds. Fix the flowers on wooden
+skewers concealed with parsley.
+
+Cold a-la-mode beef prepared in this manner will at a little
+distance look like a large iced cake decorated with sugar flowers.
+
+You may dress a fillet of veal according to this receipt. Of
+course it will require less time to stew.
+
+
+TO STEW BEEF.
+
+Take a good piece of fresh beef. It must not be too fat. Wash it,
+rub it with salt, and put it into a pot with barely sufficient
+water to cover it. Set it over a slow fire, and after it has
+stewed an hour, put in some potatoes pared and cut in half, and
+some parsnips, scraped and split. Let them stew with the beef till
+quite tender. Turn the meat several times in the pot. When all is
+done, serve up the meat and vegetables together, and the gravy in
+a boat, having first skimmed it.
+
+This is a good family dish.
+
+You may add turnips (pared and sliced) to the other vegetables.
+
+Fresh pork may be stewed in this manner, or with sweet potatoes.
+
+
+TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF.
+
+Trim off some pieces from a round of fresh beef--take out the bone
+and break it. Put the bone and the trimmings into a pan with some
+cold water, and add an onion, a carrot, and a turnip all cut in
+pieces, and a bunch, of sweet herbs. Simmer them for an hour, and
+having skimmed it well, strain off the liquid. Season the meat
+highly with what is called kitchen pepper, that is, a mixture, in
+equal quantities, of black or white pepper, allspice, cinnamon,
+cloves, ginger and nutmeg, all finely powdered. Fasten it with
+skewers, and tie it firmly round with tape. Lay skewers in the
+bottom of the stew-pan; place the beef upon them, and then pour
+over it the gravy you have prepared from the bone and trimmings.
+Simmer it about an hour and a half, and then turn the meat over,
+and add to it three carrots, three turnips, and two onions all
+sliced, and a glass of tarragon vinegar. Keep the lid close,
+except when you are skimming off the fat. Let the meat stew till
+it is thoroughly done and tender throughout. The time will depend
+on the size of the round. It may require from five or six to eight
+hours.
+
+Just before you take it up, stir into the gravy a table-spoonful
+or two of mushroom catchup, a little made mustard, and a piece of
+butter rolled in flour.
+
+Send it to table hot, with the gravy poured round it.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF,
+
+Take a round of fresh beef (or the half of one if it is very
+large) and remove the bone. The day before you cook it, lay it in
+a pickle made of equal proportions of water and vinegar with salt
+to your taste. Next morning take it out of the pickle, put it into
+a large pot or stew-pan, and just cover it with water. Put in with
+it two or three large onion a few cloves, a little whole black
+pepper, and a large glass of port or claret. If it is a whole
+round of beef allow two glasses of wine. Stew it slowly for at
+least four hours or more, in proportion to its size. It must be
+thoroughly done, and tender all through. An hour before you send
+it to table take the meat out of the pot, and pour the gravy into
+a pan. Put a large lump of butter into the pot, dredge the beef
+with flour, and return it to the pot to brown, turning it often to
+prevent its burning. Or it will be better to put it into a Dutch
+oven. Cover the lid with hot coals, renewing them as they go out.
+Take the gravy that you poured from the meat, and skim off all the
+fat. Put it into a sauce-pan, and mix with it a little butter
+rolled in flour, and add some more cloves and wine. Give it a boil
+up. If it is not well browned, burn some sugar on a hot shovel,
+and stir it in.
+
+If you like it stuffed, have ready when you take the meat out of
+the pickle, a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, sweet herbs,
+butter, spice, pepper and salt, and minced parsley, mixed with
+beaten yolk of egg. Fill with this the opening from whence you
+took the bone, and bind a tape firmly round the meat.
+
+
+BEEF BOUILLI.
+
+Take part of a round of fresh beef (or if you prefer it a piece of
+the flank or brisket) and rub it with salt. Place skewers in the
+bottom of the stew-pot, and lay the meat upon them with barely
+water enough to cover it. To enrich the gravy you may add the
+necks and other trimmings of whatever poultry you may happen to
+have; also the root of a tongue, if convenient. Cover the pot, and
+set it over a quick fire. When it boils and the scum has risen,
+skim it well, and then diminish the fire so that the meat shall
+only simmer; or you may set the pot on hot coals. Then put in four
+or five carrots sliced thin, a head of celery cut up, and four or
+fire sliced turnips. Add a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small
+table-spoonful of black pepper-corns tied in a thin muslin rag. Let
+it stew slowly for four or fire hours, and then add a dozen very
+small onions roasted and peeled, and a large table-spoonful of
+capers or nasturtians. You may, if you choose, stick a clove in
+each onion. Simmer it half an hour longer, then take up the meat,
+and place-it in a dish, laying the vegetables round it. Skim and
+strain the gravy; season it with catchup, and made mustard, and
+serve it up in a boat. Mutton may be cooked in this manner.
+
+
+HASHED BEEF.
+
+Take some roast beef that has been very much under-done,
+and having cut off the fat and skin, put the trimmings
+with the bones broken up into a stew-pan with two large
+onions sliced, a few sliced potatoes, and a bunch of sweet
+herbs. Add about a pint of warm water, or broth if you have
+it. This is to make the gravy. Cover it closely, and let it
+simmer for about an hour. Then skim and strain it, carefully
+removing every particle of fat.
+
+Take another stew-pot, and melt in it a piece of butter,
+about the size of a large walnut. When it has melted, shake
+in a spoonful of flour. Stir it a few minutes, and then add
+to it the strained gravy. Let it come to a boil, and then put
+to it a table-spoonful of catchup, and the beef cut either in
+thin small slices or in mouthfuls. Let it simmer from five to
+ten minutes, but do not allow it to boil, lest (having been
+cooked already) it should become tasteless and insipid.
+Serve it up in a deep dish with thin slices of toast cut into
+triangular or pointed pieces, the crust omitted. Dip the toast in
+the gravy, and lay the pieces in regular order round the sides of
+the dish.
+
+You may hash mutton or veal in the same manner, adding sliced
+carrots, turnips, potatoes, or any vegetables you please. Tomatas
+are an improvement.
+
+To hash cold meat is an economical way of using it; but there is
+little or no nutriment in it after being twice cooked, and the
+natural flavour is much impaired by the process.
+
+Hashed meat would always be much better if the slices were cut
+from the joint or large piece as soon as it leaves the table, and
+soaked in the gravy till next day.
+
+
+BEEF CAKES.
+
+Take some cold roast beef that has been under-done, and mince it
+very fine. Mix with it grated bread crumbs, and a little chopped
+onion and parsley. Season it with pepper and salt, and moisten it
+with some beef-dripping and a little walnut or onion pickle. Some
+scraped cold tongue or ham will be found an improvement. Make it
+into broad flat cakes, and spread a coat of mashed potato thinly
+on the top and bottom of each. Lay a small bit of butter on the
+top of every cake, and set them in an oven to warm and brown.
+
+Beef cakes are frequently a breakfast dish.
+
+Any other cold fresh meat may be prepared in the same manner.
+
+Cold roast beef may be cut into slices, seasoned with salt and
+pepper, broiled a few minutes over a clear fire, and served up hot
+with a little butter spread on them.
+
+
+TO ROAST A BEEF'S HEART.
+
+Cut open the heart, and (having removed the ventricles) soak it in
+cold water to free it from the blood, Parboil it about ten
+minutes. Prepare, a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, butter or
+minced suet, sweet marjoram and parsley chopped fine, a little
+grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, and salt to your taste, and
+some yolk of egg to bind the ingredients. Stuff the heart with the
+force-meat, and secure the opening by tying a string around it.
+Put it on a spit, and roast it till it is tender throughout.
+
+Add to the gravy a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a glass of
+red wine. Serve up the heart very hot in a covered dish. It chills
+immediately.
+
+Eat currant jelly with it.
+
+Boiled beef's heart is frequently used in mince pies.
+
+
+TO STEW A BEEF'S HEART.
+
+Clean the heart, and cut it lengthways into large pieces. Put them
+into a pot with a little salt and pepper, and cover them with cold
+water. Parboil them for a quarter of an hour, carefully skimming
+off the blood that rises to the top. Then take them out, cut them,
+into mouthfuls, and having strained the liquid, return them to it,
+adding a head or two of chopped celery, a few sliced onions, a
+dozen potatoes pared and quartered, and a piece of butter rolled
+in flour. Season with whole pepper, and a few cloves if you like.
+Let it stew slowly till all the pieces of heart and the vegetables
+are quite tender.
+
+You may stew a beef's kidney in the same manner.
+
+The heart and liver of a calf make a good dish cooked as above.
+
+
+TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.
+
+Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a
+cloth, cut it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine. Dust it with
+flour. Put some butter into a stew-pan over a moderate fire, and
+when it boils put in the minced kidney. When you have browned it
+in the butter, sprinkle on a little salt and cayenne pepper, and
+pour in a very little boiling water. Add a glass of champagne or
+other wine, or a large tea-spoonful of mushroom catchup, or of
+walnut pickle. Cover the pan closely, and let it stew till the
+kidney is tender. Send it to table hot in a covered dish. It is
+eaten generally at breakfast.
+
+
+TO BOIL TRIPE.
+
+Wash it well in warm water, and trim it nicely, taking off all the
+fat. Cut it into small pieces, and put it on to boil five hours
+before dinner, in water enough to cover it very well. After it has
+boiled four hours, pour off the water, season the tripe with
+pepper and salt, and put it into a pot with milk and water mixed
+in equal quantities. Boil it an hour in the milk and water.
+
+Boil in a sauce-pan ten or a dozen onions. When they are quite
+soft, drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe out your
+sauce-pan and put them on again, with a bit of butter rolled in
+flour, and a wine-glass of cream or milk. Let them boil up, and
+add them to the tripe just before you send it to table. Eat it
+with pepper, vinegar, and mustard.
+
+
+TRIPE AND OYSTERS.
+
+Having boiled the tripe in milk and water, for four or five hours
+till it is quite tender, gut it up into small pieces. Put it into
+a stew-pan with just milk enough to cover it, and a few blades of
+mace. Let it stew about five minutes, and then put in the oysters,
+adding a large piece of butter rolled-in flour, and salt and
+cayenne pepper to your taste. Let it stew five minutes longer, and
+then send it to table in a tureen; first skimming off whatever fat
+may float on the surface.
+
+
+TO FRY TRIPE.
+
+Boil the tripe the day before, till it is quite tender, which it
+will not be in less than four or five hours. Then cover it and set
+it away. Next day cut it into long slips, and dip each piece into
+beaten yolk of egg, and afterwards roll them in grated bread
+crumbs. Have ready in a frying-pan over the fire, some good beef-dripping.
+When it is boiling hot put in the tripe, and fry it
+about ten minutes, till of a light brown.
+
+You may serve it up with onion sauce.
+
+Boiled tripe that has been left from the dinner of the preceding
+day may be fried in this manner.
+
+
+PEPPER POT.
+
+Take four pounds of tripe, and four ox feet. Put them into a large
+pot with as much water as will cover them, some whole pepper, and
+a little salt. Hang them over the fire early in the morning. Let
+them boil slowly, keeping the pot closely covered. When the tripe
+is quite tender, and the ox feet boiled to pieces, take them out,
+and skim the liquid and strain it. Then cut the tripe into small
+pieces; put it back into the pot, and pour the soup or liquor over
+it. Have ready some sweet herbs chopped fine, some sliced onions,
+and some sliced potatoes. Make some small dumplings with flour and
+batter. Season the vegetables well with pepper and salt, and put
+them into the pot. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, and pour
+on as much as will keep the ingredients covered while boiling, but
+take care not to weaken the taste by putting too much water. Add a
+large piece of butter rolled in flour, and lastly put in the
+dumplings. Let it boil till all the things are thoroughly done,
+and then serve it up in the tureen.
+
+
+TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE.
+
+In buying dried tongues, choose those that are thick and plump,
+and that have the smoothest skins. They are the most likely to be
+young and tender.
+
+A smoked tongue should soak in cold water at least all night. One
+that is very hard and dry will require twenty-four hours' soaking.
+When you boil it put it into a pot full of cold water. Set it over
+a slow fire that it may heat gradually for an hour before it comes
+to a boil. Then keep it simmering from three and a half to four
+hours, according to its size and age. Probe it with a fork, and do
+not take it up till it is tender throughout. Send it to table with
+mashed potato laid round it, and garnish with parsley. Do not
+split it in half when you dish it, as is the practice with some
+cooks. Cutting it lengthways spoils the flavour, and renders it
+comparatively insipid.
+
+If you wish to serve up the tongue very handsomely, rub it with
+yolk of egg after you take it from the pot, and strew over it
+grated bread crumbs; baste it with butter, and set it before the
+fire till it becomes of a light brown. Cover the root (which is
+always an unsightly object) with thick sprigs of double parsley;
+and (instead of mashed potato) lay slices of currant jelly all
+round the tongue.
+
+
+TO BOIL A SALTED OR PICKLED TONGUE.
+
+Put it into boiling water, and let it boil three hours or more,
+according to its size. When you take it out peel and trim it, and
+send it to table surrounded with mashed potato, and garnished with
+sliced carrot.
+
+
+TO CORN BEEF.
+
+Wash the beef well, after it has lain awhile in cold water. Then
+drain and examine it, take out all the kernels, and rub it
+plentifully with salt. It will imbibe the salt more readily after
+being washed. In cold weather warm the salt by placing it before
+the fire. This will cause it to penetrate the meat more
+thoroughly.
+
+In summer do not attempt to corn any beef that has not been fresh
+killed, and even then it will not keep more than a day and a half
+or two days. Wash and dry it, and rub a great deal of salt well
+into it. Cover it carefully, and keep it in a cold dry cellar.
+
+Pork is corned in the same manner.
+
+
+TO PICKLE BEEF OR TONGUES.
+
+The beef must be fresh killed, and of the best kind. You must wipe
+every piece well, to dry it from the blood and moisture. To fifty
+pounds of meat allow two pounds and a quarter of coarse salt, two
+pounds and a quarter of fine salt, one ounce and a half of
+saltpetre, one pound and a half of brown sugar, and one quart of
+molasses. Mix all these ingredients well together, boil and skim
+it for about twenty minutes, and when no more scum rises, take it
+from the fire. Have ready the beef in a large tub, or in a barrel;
+pour the brine gradually upon it with a ladle, and as it cools rub
+it well into every part of the meat. A molasses hogshead sawed in
+two is a good receptacle for pickled meat. Cover it well with a
+thick cloth, and look at it frequently, skimming off whatever may
+float on the top, and basting the meat with the brine. In about a
+fortnight the beef will be fit for use.
+
+Tongues may be put into the same cask with the beef, one or two at
+a time, as you procure them from the butcher. None of them will be
+ready for smoking in less than six weeks; but they had best remain
+in pickle two or three months. They should not be sent to the
+smoke-house later than March. If you do them at home, they will
+require three weeks' smoking over a wood fire. Hang them with the
+root or large end upwards. When done, sew up each tongue tightly
+in coarse linen, and hang them up in a dark dry cellar.
+
+Pickled tongues without smoking are seldom liked.
+
+The last of October is a good time for putting meat into pickle.
+If the weather is too warm or too cold, it will not take the salt
+well.
+
+In the course of the winter the pickle may probably require a
+second boiling with additional ingredients.
+
+Half an ounce of pearl-ash added to the other articles will make
+the meat more tender, but many persons thinks it injures the
+taste.
+
+The meat must always be kept completely immersed in the brine. To
+effect this a heavy board should be laid upon it.
+
+
+DRIED OR SMOKED BEEF.
+
+The best part for this purpose is the round, which you must desire
+the butcher to cut into four pieces. Wash the meat and dry it well
+in a cloth. Grind or beat to powder an equal quantity of cloves
+and allspice, and having mixed them together, rub them well into
+the beef with your hand. The spice will be found a great
+improvement both to the taste and smell of the meat. Have ready a
+pickle made precisely as that in the preceding article. Boil and
+skim it, and (the meat having been thoroughly rubbed all over with
+the spice) pour on the pickle, as before directed. Keep the beef
+in the pickle at least six weeks, and then smoke it about three
+weeks.
+
+Smoked beef is brought on the tea-table either shaved into thin
+chips without cooking, or chipped and fried with a little butter
+in a skillet, and served up hot.
+
+This receipt for dried or smoked beef will answer equally well for
+venison ham, which is also used as a relish at the tea-table.
+
+Mutton hams may be prepared in the same way.
+
+
+POTTED BEEF.
+
+Take a good piece of a round of beef, and cut off all the fat. Rub
+the lean well with salt, and let it lie two days. Then put it into
+a jar, and add to it a little water in the proportion of half a
+pint to three pounds of meat. Cover the jar as closely as
+possible, (the best cover will be a coarse paste or dough) and set
+it in a slow oven, or in a vessel of boiling water for about four
+hours. Then drain off all the gravy and set the meat before the
+fire that all the moisture may be drawn out. Pull or cut it to
+pieces and pound it for a long time in a mortar with pepper,
+allspice, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and oiled fresh butter, adding
+these ingredients gradually, and moistening it with a little of
+the gravy. You must pound it to a fine paste, or till it becomes
+of the consistence of cream, cheese.
+
+Put it into potting cans, and cover it an inch thick with fresh
+butter that has been melted, skimmed, and strained. Tie a leather
+over each pot, and keep them closely covered. Set them in a dry
+place.
+
+Game and poultry may be potted in this manner
+
+
+
+
+VEAL.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+The fore-quarter of a calf comprises the neck, breast, and
+shoulder: the hind-quarter consists of the loin, fillet, and
+knuckle. Separate dishes are made of the head, heart, liver, and
+sweet-bread. The flesh of good veal is firm and dry, and the joints
+stiff. The lean is of a very light delicate red, and the fat quite
+white. In buying the head see that the eyes look full, plump, and
+lively; if they are dull and sunk the calf has been killed too
+long. In buying calves' feet for jelly or soup, endeavour to get
+those that have been singed only and not skinned; as a great deal
+of gelatinous substance is contained in the skin. Veal should
+always be thoroughly cooked, and never brought to table rare or
+under-done, like beef or mutton. The least redness in the meat or
+gravy is disgusting.
+
+Veal suet may be used as a substitute for that of beef; also veal-dripping.
+
+
+TO ROAST A LOIN OF VEAL.
+
+The loin is the best part of the calf. It is always roasted. See
+that your fire is clear and hot, and broad enough to brown both
+ends. Cover the fat of the kidney and the back with paper to
+prevent it from scorching. A large loin of veal will require _at
+least_ four hours and a half to roast it sufficiently. At first
+set the roaster at a tolerable distance from the fire that the
+meat may heat gradually in the beginning; afterwards place it
+nearer. Put a little salt and water into the dripping-pan and
+baste the meat with it till the gravy begins to drop. Then baste
+with the gravy. When the meat is nearly done, move it close to the
+fire, dredge it with a very little flour, and baste it with
+butter. Skim the fat from the gravy, which should be thickened by
+shaking in a very small quantify of flour. Put it into a small
+sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. Let it just come to a boil,
+and then send it to table in a boat. If the gravy is not in
+sufficient quantity, add to it about half a jill or a large wine-glass
+of boiling water.
+
+In carving a loin of veal help every one to a piece of the kidney
+as far as it will go.
+
+
+TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL.
+
+A breast of veal will require about three hours and a half to
+roast. In preparing it for the spit, cover it with the caul, and
+skewer the sweet-bread to the back. Take off the caul when the meat
+is nearly done. The breast, being comparatively tough and coarse,
+is less esteemed than the loin and the fillet.
+
+
+TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+Take out the bone, and secure with skewers the fat flap to the
+outside of the meat. Prepare a stuffing of fresh butter or suet
+minced fine, and an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs, a large
+table-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, a table-spoonful of sweet
+marjoram chopped or rubbed to powder, a nutmeg grated, and a
+little pepper and salt, with a sprig of chopped parsley. Mix all
+these ingredients with beaten yolk of egg, and stuff the place
+from whence the bone was taken. Make deep cuts or incisions all
+over the top of the veal, and fill them with some of the stuffing.
+You may stick into each hole an inch of fat ham or salt pork, cut
+very thin.
+
+Having papered the fat, spit the veal and put it into the roaster,
+keeping it at first not too near the fire. Put a little salt and
+water into the dripping-pan, and for awhile baste the meat with
+it. Then baste it with its own gravy. A fillet of veal will
+require four hours roasting. As it proceeds, place it nearer to
+the fire. Half an hour before it is done, remove the paper, and
+baste the meat with butter, having first dredged it very lightly
+with flour. Having skimmed the gravy, mix some thin melted butter
+with it.
+
+If convenient, you may in making the stuffing, use a large
+proportion of chopped mushrooms that have been preserved in sweet
+oil, or of chopped pickled oysters. Cold ham shred fine will
+improve it.
+
+You may stuff a fillet of veal entirely with sausage meat.
+
+To accompany a fillet of veal, the usual dish is boiled ham or
+bacon.
+
+A shoulder of veal may be stuffed and roasted in a similar manner.
+
+
+TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.
+
+Divide the breast into pieces according to the position of the
+bones. Put them into a stew-pan with a few slices of ham, some
+whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, and a large onion quartered. Add
+sufficient water to keep it from burning, and let it stew slowly
+till the meat is quite tender. Then put to it a quart or more of
+green peas that have boiled twenty minutes in another pot, and a
+piece of butter rolled in flour. Let all stew together a quarter
+of an hour longer. Serve it up, with the veal in the middle, the
+peas round it, and the ham laid on the peas.
+
+You may stew a breast of veal with tomatas.
+
+
+TO STEW A FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+Take a fillet of veal, rub it with salt, and then with a sharp
+knife make deep incisions all over the surface, the bottom as well
+as the top and sides. Make a stuffing of grated stale bread,
+butter, chopped sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper
+and salt, mixed up with beaten yolk of egg to bind and give it
+consistency. Fill the holes or incisions with the stuffing,
+pressing it down well with your fingers. Reserve some of the
+stuffing to rub all over the outside of the meat. Have ready some
+very thin slices of cold boiled ham, the fatter the better. Cover
+the veal with them, fastening them on with skewers. Put it into a
+pot, and stew it slowly in a very little water, just enough to
+cover it. It will take at least five hours to stew; or more, in
+proportion to its size. When done, take off the ham, and lay it
+round the veal in a dish.
+
+You may stew with it a quart or three pints of young green peas,
+put in about an hour before dinner; add to them a little butter
+and pepper while they are stewing. Serve them up in the dish with
+the veal, laying the slices of ham upon them.
+
+If you omit the ham, stew the veal entirely in lard.
+
+
+TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
+
+Lay four wooden skewers across the bottom of your stew-pan, and
+place the meat upon them; having first carefully washed it, and
+rubbed it with salt. Add a table-spoonful of whole pepper, the
+leaves from a bunch of sweet marjoram, a bunch of parsley leaves
+chopped, two onions peeled and sliced, and a piece of butter
+rolled in flour. Pour in two quarts of water. Cover it closely,
+and after it has come to a boil, lessen the fire, and let the meat
+only simmer for two hours or more. Before you serve it up, pour
+the liquid over it.
+
+This dish will be greatly improved by stewing with it a few slices
+of ham, or the remains of a cold ham.
+
+Veal when simply boiled is too insipid. To stew it is much better.
+
+
+VEAL CUTLETS.
+
+The best cutlets are those taken from the leg or fillet. Cut them
+about half an inch thick, and as large as the palm of your hand.
+Season them with pepper and salt. Grate some stale bread, and rub
+it through a cullender, adding to it chopped sweet marjoram,
+grated lemon-peel, and some powdered mace or nutmeg. Spread the
+mixture on a large flat dish. Have ready in a pan some beaten egg.
+First dip each cutlet into the egg, and then into the seasoning on
+the dish, seeing that a sufficient quantity adheres to both sides
+of the meat. Melt in your frying-pan, over a quick fire, some
+beef-dripping, lard, or fresh butter, and when it boils lay your
+cutlets in it, and fry them thoroughly; turning them on both
+sides, and taking care that they do not burn. Place them in a
+covered dish near the fire, while you finish the gravy in the pan,
+by first skimming it, and then shaking in a little flour and
+stirring it round. Pour the gravy hot round the cutlets, and
+garnish with little bunches of curled parsley.
+
+You may mix with the bread crumbs a little saffron.
+
+
+VEAL STEAKS.
+
+Cut a neck of veal into thin steaks, and beat them to make them
+tender. For seasoning, mix together some finely chopped onion
+sprinkled with pepper and salt, and a little chopped parsley. Add
+some butter, and put it with the parsley and onion into a small
+sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals to stew till brown. In the
+mean, time, put the steaks on a hot gridiron (the bars of which
+have been rubbed with suet) and broil them well, over a bed of
+bright clear coals. When sufficiently done on one side turn them
+on the other. After the last turning, cover each steak with some
+of the seasoning from the sauce-pan, and let all broil together
+till thoroughly done.
+
+Instead of the onions and parsley, you may season the veal steaks
+with chopped mushrooms, or with chopped oysters, browned in
+butter.
+
+Have ready a gravy made of the scraps and trimmings of the veal,
+seasoned with pepper and salt, and boiled in a little hot water in
+the same sauce-pan in which the parsley and onions have been
+previously stewed. Strain the gravy when it has boiled long
+enough, and flavour it with catchup.
+
+
+MINCED VEAL.
+
+Take some cold veal, cut it into slices, and mince it very finely
+with a chopping-knife. Season it to your taste with pepper, salt,
+sweet marjoram rubbed fine, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg. Put the
+bones and trimmings into a sauce-pan with a little water, and
+simmer them over hot coals to extract the gravy from them. Then
+put the minced veal into a stew-pan, strain the gravy over it, add
+a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little milk or cream. Let
+it all simmer together till thoroughly warmed, but do not allow it
+to boil lest the meat having been once cooked already, should
+become tasteless. When you serve it up, have ready some three-cornered
+pieces of bread toasted and buttered; place them all
+round the inside of the dish.
+
+Or you may cover the mince with a thick layer of grated bread,
+moistened with a little butter, and browned on the top with a
+salamander, or a red hot shovel.
+
+
+VEAL PATTIES.
+
+Mince very fine a pound of the lean of cold roast veal, and half a
+pound of cold boiled ham, (fat and lean equally mixed.) Put it
+into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter divided into bits and
+rolled in flour, a jill of cream, and a jill of veal gravy. Season
+it to your taste with cayenne pepper and nutmeg, grated lemon-peel,
+and lemon-juice. Set the pan on hot coals, and let the
+ingredients simmer till well warmed, stirring them well to prevent
+their burning.
+
+Have ready baked some small shells of puff-paste. Fill them with
+the mixture, and eat the patties either warm or cold.
+
+
+VEAL PIE.
+
+Take two pounds of veal cut from the loin, fillet, or the best end
+of the neck. Remove the bone, fat, and skin, and put them into a
+sauce-pan with half a pint of water to stew for the gravy. Make a
+good paste, allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of flour.
+Divide it into two pieces, roll it out rather thick and cover with
+one piece the sides and bottom of a deep dish. Put in a layer of
+veal, seasoned with pepper and salt, then a layer of cold ham
+sliced thin, then more veal, more ham, and so on till the dish is
+full; interspersing the meat with yolks of eggs boiled hard. If
+you can procure some small button mushrooms they will be found an
+improvement. Pour in, at the last, the gravy you have drawn from
+the trimmings, and put on the lid of the pie, notching the edge
+handsomely, and ornamenting the centre with a flower made of
+paste. Bake the pie at least two hours and a half.
+
+You may make a very plain veal pie simply of veal chops, sliced
+onions, and potatoes pared and quartered. Season with pepper and
+salt, and fill up the dish with water.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD DREST PLAIN
+
+Wash the head in warm water. Then lay it in clean hot water and
+let it soak awhile. This will blanch it. Take out the brains and
+the black part of the eyes. Tie the head in a cloth, and put it
+into a large fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water, and add some
+salt to throw up the scum, which must be taken off as it rises.
+Let the head boil gently about three hours.
+
+Put eight or ten sage leaves, and as much parsley, into a small
+sauce-pan with a little water, and boil them half an hour. Then
+chop them fine, and set them ready on a plate. Wash the brains
+well in two warm waters, and then soak them for an hour in a basin
+of cold water with a little salt in it. Remove the skin and
+strings, and then put the brains into a stew-pan with plenty of
+cold water, and let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour,
+skimming them well. Take them out, chop them, and mix them with
+the sage and parsley leaves, two table-spoonfuls of melted butter,
+and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, and pepper and salt to
+your taste. Then put the mixture into a sauce-pan and set it on
+coals to warm.
+
+Take up the head when it is sufficiently boiled, score it in
+diamonds, brush it all over with beaten egg, and strew it with a
+mixture of grated bread-crumbs, and chopped sage and parsley.
+Stick a few bits of butter over it, and set it in a Dutch oven to
+brown. Serve it up with the brains laid round it. Or you may send
+to table the brains and the tongue in a small separate dish,
+having first trimmed the tongue and cut off the roots. Have also
+parsley-sauce in a boat. You may garnish with very thin small
+slices of broiled ham, curled up.
+
+If you get a calf's head with the hair on, sprinkle it all over
+with pounded rosin, and dip it into boiling water. This will make
+the hairs scrape off easily.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD HASHED.
+
+Take a calf's head and a set of feet, and boil them until tender,
+having first removed the brains. Then cut the flesh off the head
+and feet in slices from the bone, and put both meat and bones into
+a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, some sliced onions, and
+pepper and salt to your taste; also a large piece of butter rolled
+in flour, and a little water. After it has stewed awhile slowly
+till the flavour is well extracted from the herbs and onions, take
+out the meat, season it a little with cayenne pepper, and lay it
+in a dish. Strain the gravy in which it was stewed, and stir into
+it two glasses of madeira, and the juice and grated peel of a
+lemon. Having poured some of the gravy over the meat, lay a piece
+of butter on the top, set it in an oven and bake it brown.
+
+In the mean time, having cleaned and washed the brains (skinning
+them and removing the strings) parboil them in a sauce-pan, and
+then make them into balls with chopped sweet herbs, grated bread-crumbs,
+grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Fry
+them in lard and butter mixed; and send them to table laid round
+the meat (which should have the tongue placed on the top) and
+garnish with sliced lemon. Warm the remaining gravy in a small
+sauce-pan on hot coals, and stir into it the beaten yolk of an egg
+a minute before you take it from the fire. Send it to table in a
+boat.
+
+
+CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.
+
+See that the chitterlings are very nice and white. Wash them, cut
+them into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with pepper and
+salt to your taste, and about two quarts of water. Boil them two
+hours or more. In the mean time, peel eight or ten white onions,
+and throw them whole into a sauce-pan with plenty of water. Boil
+them slowly till quite soft; then drain them in a cullender, and
+mash them. Wipe out your sauce-pan, and put in the mashed onions
+with a piece of butter, two table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk,
+some nutmeg, and a very little salt. Sprinkle in a little flour,
+set the pan on hot coals (keeping it well covered) and give it one
+boil up.
+
+When the chitterlings are quite tender all through, take them up
+and drain them. Place in the bottom of a dish a slice or two of
+buttered toast with all the crust cut off. Lay the chitterlings on
+the toast, and send them to table with the stewed onions in a
+sauce-boat. When you take the chitterlings on your plate season
+them with pepper and vinegar.
+
+This, if properly prepared, is a very nice dish.
+
+
+TO FRY CALF'S FEET.
+
+Having first boiled them till tender, cut them in two, and (having
+taken out the large bones) season the feet with pepper and salt,
+and dredge them well with flour. Strew some chopped parsley or
+sweet marjoram over them, and fry them of a light brown in lard or
+butter. Serve them up with parsley-sauce.
+
+
+TO FRY CALF'S LIVER.
+
+Cut the liver into thin slices. Season it with pepper, salt,
+chopped sweet herbs, and parsley. Dredge it with flour, and fry it
+brown in lard or dripping. See that it is thoroughly done before
+you send it to table. Serve it up with its own gravy.
+
+Some slices of cold boiled ham fried with it will be found an
+improvement.
+
+You may dress a calf's heart in the same manner.
+
+
+LARDED CALF'S LIVER.
+
+Take a calf's liver and wash it well. Cut into long slips the fat
+of some bacon or salt pork, and insert it all through the surface
+of the liver by means of a larding-pin. Put the liver into a pot
+with a table-spoonful of lard, a little water, and a few tomatas,
+or some tomata catchup; adding one large or two small onions
+minced fine, and some sweet marjoram leaves rubbed very fine. The
+sweet marjoram will crumble more easily if you first dry it before
+the fire on a plate.
+
+Having put in all these ingredients, set the pot on hot coals in
+the corner of the fire-place, and keep it stewing, regularly and
+slowly, for four hours. Send the liver to table with the gravy
+round it.
+
+
+TO ROAST SWEET-BREADS.
+
+Take four fine sweet-breads, and having trimmed them nicely,
+parboil them, and then lay them in a pan of cold water till they
+become cool. Afterwards dry them in a cloth. Put some butter into
+a sauce-pan, set it on hot coals, and melt and skim it. When it is
+quite clear, take it off. Have ready some beaten egg in one dish,
+and some grated bread-crumbs in another. Skewer each sweet-bread,
+and fasten them on a spit. Then glaze them all over with egg, and
+sprinkle them with bread-crumbs. Spread on some of the clarified
+butter, and then another coat of crumbs. Roast them before a clear
+fire, at least a quarter of an hour. Have ready some nice veal
+gravy flavoured with lemon-juice, and pour it round the sweet-breads
+before you send them to table.
+
+
+LARDED SWEET-BREADS.
+
+Parboil three or four of the largest sweet-breads you can get.
+This should be done as soon as they are brought in, as few things
+spoil more rapidly if not cooked at once. When half boiled, lay
+them in cold water. Prepare a force-meat of grated bread, lemon-peel,
+butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg mixed with beaten yolk of
+egg. Cut open the sweet-breads and stuff them with it, fastening
+them afterwards with a skewer, or tying them round with
+packthread. Have ready some slips of bacon-fat, and some slips of
+lemon-peel cut about the thickness of very small straws. Lard the
+sweet-breads with them in alternate rows of bacon and lemon-peel,
+drawing them through with a larding-needle. Do it regularly and
+handsomely. Then put the sweet-breads into a Dutch oven, and bake
+them brown. Serve them up with veal gravy flavoured with a glass
+of Madeira, and enriched with beaten yolk of egg stirred in at the
+last.
+
+
+MARBLED VEAL.
+
+Having boiled and skinned two fine smoked tongues, cut them to
+pieces and pound them to a paste in a mortar, moistening them with
+plenty of butter as you proceed. Have ready an equal quantity of
+the lean of veal stewed and cut into very small pieces. Pound the
+veal also in a mortar, adding butter to it by degrees. The tongue
+and veal must be kept separate till both have been pounded. Then
+fill your potting cans with lumps of the veal and tongue, pressed
+down hard, and so placed, that when cut, the mixture will look
+variegated or marbled. Close the cans with veal; again press it
+down very hard, and finish by pouring on clarified butter. Cover
+the cans closely, and keep them in a dry place. It maybe eaten at
+tea or supper. Send it to table cut in slices.
+
+You may use it for sandwiches.
+
+
+
+
+MUTTON AND LAMB.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+The fore-quarter of a sheep contains the neck, breast, and
+shoulder; and the hind-quarter the loin and leg. The two loins
+together are called the chine or saddle. The flesh of good mutton
+is of a bright red, and a close grain, and the fat firm and quite
+white. The meat will feel tender and springy when you squeeze it
+with your fingers. The vein in the neck of the fore-quarter should
+be of a fine blue.
+
+Lamb is always roasted; generally a whole quarter at once. In
+carving lamb, the first thing done is to separate the shoulder
+from the breast, or the leg from the loin.
+
+If the weather is cold enough to allow it, mutton is more tender
+after being kept a few days.
+
+
+TO ROAST MUTTON.
+
+Mutton should be roasted with a quick brisk fire. Every part
+should be trimmed off that cannot be eaten. Wash the meat well.
+The skin should be taken off and skewered on again before the meat
+is put on the spit; this will make it more juicy. Otherwise tie
+paper over the fat, having soaked the twine in water to prevent
+the string from burning. Put a little salt and water into the
+dripping-pan, to baste the meat at first, then use its own gravy
+for that purpose. A quarter of an hour before you think it will be
+done, take off the skin or paper, dredge the meat very lightly
+with flour, and baste it with butter. Skim the gravy and send it
+to table in a boat. A leg of mutton will require from two hours
+roasting to two hours and a half in proportion to its size. A
+chine or saddle, from two hours and a half, to three hours. A
+shoulder, from an hour and a half, to two hours. A loin, from an
+hour and three quarters, to two hours. A haunch (that is a leg
+with, part of the loin) cannot be well roasted in less than four
+hours.
+
+Always have some currant jelly on the table to eat with roast
+mutton. It should also be accompanied by mashed turnips.
+
+Slices cut from a cold leg of mutton that has been under-done, are
+very nice broiled or warmed on a gridiron, and sent to the
+breakfast table covered with currant jelly.
+
+Pickles are always eaten with mutton.
+
+In preparing a leg of mutton for roasting, you may make deep
+incisions in it, and stuff them with chopped oysters, or with a
+force-meat made in the usual manner; or with chestnuts parboiled
+and peeled. The gravy will be improved by stirring into it a glass
+of port wine.
+
+
+TO BOIL MUTTON.
+
+To prepare a leg of mutton for boiling, wash it clean, cut a small
+piece off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put it into a pot
+with water enough to cover it, and boil it gently for three hours,
+skimming it well. Then take it from the fire, and keeping the pot
+well covered, let it finish by remaining in the steam for ten or
+fifteen minutes. Serve it up with a sauce-boat of melted butter
+into which a tea-cup full of capers or nasturtians have been
+stirred.
+
+Have mashed turnips to eat with it.
+
+A few small onions boiled in the water with the mutton are thought
+by some to improve the flavour of the meat. It is much better when
+sufficient time is allowed to boil or simmer it slowly.
+
+A neck or a loin of mutton will require also about three hours
+slow boiling. These pieces should on no account be sent to table
+the least under-done. Serve up with them carrots and whole
+turnips. You may add a dish of suet dumplings to eat with the
+meat, made of finely chopped suet mixed with double its quantity
+of flour, and a little cold water.
+
+
+MUTTON CHOPS.
+
+Take chops or steaks from a loin of mutton, cut off the bone close
+to the meat, and trim off the skin, and part of the fat. Beat them
+to make them tender, and season them with pepper and salt. Make
+your gridiron hot over a bed of clear bright coals; rub the bars
+with suet, and lay on the chops. Turn them frequently; and if the
+fat that falls from them causes a blaze and smoke, remove the
+gridiron for a moment till it is over. When they are thoroughly
+done, put them into a warm dish and butter them. Keep them covered
+till a moment before they are to be eaten.
+
+When the chops have been turned for the last time, you may strew
+over them some finely minced onion moistened with boiling water,
+and seasoned with pepper.
+
+Some like them flavoured with mushroom catchup.
+
+Another way of dressing mutton chops is, after trimming them
+nicely and seasoning them with pepper and salt, to lay them for
+awhile in melted butter. When they have imbibed a sufficient
+quantity, take them out, and cover them all over with grated
+bread-crumbs. Broil them over a clear fire, and see that the bread
+does not burn.
+
+
+CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON.
+
+Cut a neck of mutton into steaks with a bone in each; trim them
+nicely, and scrape clean the end of the bone. Flatten them with a
+rolling pin, or a meat beetle, and lay them in oiled butter. Make
+a seasoning of hard-boiled yolk of egg and sweet-herbs minced
+small, grated bread, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and, if you choose,
+a little minced onion. Take the chops out of the butter, and cover
+them with the seasoning. Butter some half sheets of white paper,
+and put the cutlets into them, so as to be entirely covered,
+securing the paper with pins or strings; and twisting them nicely
+round the bone. Heat your gridiron over some bright lively coals.
+Lay the cutlets on it, and broil them about twenty minutes. The
+custom of sending them to table in the papers had best be omitted,
+as (unless managed by a French cook) these envelopes, after being
+on the gridiron, make a very bad appearance.
+
+Serve them up hot, with mushroom sauce in a boat, or with a brown
+gravy, flavoured with red wine. You may make the gravy of the
+bones and trimmings, stewed in a little water, skimmed well, and
+strained when sufficiently stewed. Thicken it with flour browned
+in a Dutch oven, and add a glass of red wine.
+
+You may bake these cutlets in a Dutch oven without the papers.
+Moisten them frequently with a little oiled butter.
+
+
+STEWED MUTTON CHOPS.
+
+Cut a loin or neck of mutton into chops, and trim away the fat and
+bones. Beat and flatten them. Season them with pepper and salt,
+and put them into a stew-pan, with barely sufficient water to
+cover them, and some sliced carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes,
+and a bunch of sweet herbs, or a few tomatas. Let the whole stew
+slowly about three hours, or till every thing is tender. Keep the
+pan closely covered, except when you are skimming it.
+
+Send it to table with sippets or three-cornered pieces of toasted
+bread, lain all round the dish.
+
+
+HASHED MUTTON.
+
+Cut into small pieces the lean of some cold mutton that has been
+under-done, and season it with pepper and salt. Take the bones and
+other trimmings, put them into a sauce-pan with as much water as
+will cover them, and some sliced onions, and let them stew till
+you have drawn from them a good gravy. Having skimmed it well,
+strain the gravy into a stew-pan, and put the mutton into it. Have
+ready-boiled some carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. Slice
+them, and add them to the meat and gravy. Set the pan on hot
+coals, and let it simmer till the meat is warmed through, but do
+not allow it to boil, as it has been once cooked already. Cover
+the bottom of a dish with slices of buttered toast. Lay the meat
+and vegetables upon it, and pour over them the gravy.
+
+Tomatas will be found an improvement.
+
+If green peas, or Lima beans are in season, you may boil them, and
+put them to the hashed mutton; leaving out the other vegetables,
+or serving them up separately.
+
+
+A CASSEROLE OF MUTTON.
+
+Butter a deep dish or mould, and line it with potatoes mashed with
+milk or putter, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Fill it with
+slices of the lean of cold mutton, or lamb, seasoned also. Cover
+the whole with more mashed potatoes. Put it into an oven, and bake
+it till the meat is thoroughly warmed, and the potatoes brown.
+Then carefully turn it out on a large dish; or you may, if more
+convenient, send it to table in the dish it was baked in.
+
+
+MUTTON HARICO.
+
+Take a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, and fry them brown. Then
+put them into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three
+cloves, a little mace, and pepper and salt to your taste. Cover
+them with boiling water, and let them stew slowly for about an
+hour. Then cut some carrots and turnips into dice; slice some
+onions, and cut up a head of celery; put them all into the stew-pan,
+and keep it closely covered except when you are skimming off
+the fat. Let the whole stew gently for an hour longer, and then
+send it to table in a deep dish, with the gravy about it.
+
+You may make a similar harico of veal steaks, or of beef cut very
+thin.
+
+
+STEWED LEG OF MUTTON.
+
+Take a leg of mutton and trim it nicely. Put it into a pot with
+three pints of water; or with two pints of water and one quart of
+gravy drawn from bones, trimmings, and coarse pieces of meat. Add
+some slices of carrots, and a little salt. Stew it slowly three
+hours. Then put in small onions, small turnips, tomatas or tomata
+catchup, and shred or powdered sweet marjoram to your taste, and
+let it stew three hours longer. A large leg will require from
+first to last from six hours and a half to seven hours stewing.
+But though it must be tender and well done all through, do not
+allow it to stew to rags. Serve it up with the vegetables and
+gravy round it. Have mashed potatoes in another dish.
+
+
+TO ROAST LAMB.
+
+The best way of cooking lamb is to roast it; when drest otherwise
+it is insipid, and not so good as mutton. A hind-quarter of eight
+pounds will be done in about two hours; a fore-quarter of ten
+pounds, in two hours and a half; a leg of five pounds will take
+from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; a loin about an
+hour and a half. Lamb, like veal and pork, is not eatable unless
+thoroughly done; no one preferring it rare, as is frequently the
+case with beef and mutton.
+
+Wash the meat, wipe it dry, spit it, and cover the fat with paper.
+Place it before a clear brisk fire. Baste it at first with a
+little salt and water, and then with its own drippings. Remove the
+paper when the meat is nearly done, and dredge the lamb with a
+little flour. Afterwards baste it with butter. Do not take it off
+the spit till you see it drop white gravy.
+
+Prepare some mint sauce by stripping from the stalks the leaves of
+young green mint, mincing them very fine, and mixing them with
+vinegar and sugar. There must be just sufficient vinegar to
+moisten the mint, but not enough to make the sauce liquid. Send it
+to table in a boat, and the gravy in another boat. Garnish with
+sliced lemon.
+
+In carving a quarter of lamb, separate the shoulder from the
+breast, or the leg from the ribs, sprinkle a little salt and
+pepper, and squeeze on some lemon juice.
+
+It should be accompanied by asparagus, green peas, and lettuce.
+
+
+
+
+PORK, HAM, &c.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+In cutting up pork, you have the spare-rib, shoulder, griskin or
+chine, the loin, middlings and leg; the head, feet, heart and
+liver. On the spare-rib and chine there is but little meat, and
+the pieces called middlings consist almost entirely of fat. The
+best parts are the loin, and the leg or hind-quarter. Hogs make
+the best pork when from two and a half to four years old. They
+should be kept up and fed with corn at least six weeks before they
+are killed, or their flesh will acquire a disagreeable taste from
+the trash and offal which they eat when running at large. The
+Portuguese pork, which is fed on chestnuts, is perhaps the finest
+in the world.
+
+If the meat is young, the lean will break on being pinched, and
+the skin will dent by nipping it with the fingers; the fat will be
+white, soft, and pulpy. If the skin or rind is rough, and cannot
+he nipped, it is old.
+
+Hams that have short shank-bones, are generally preferred. If you
+put a knife under the bone of a ham, and it comes out clean, the
+meat is good; but quite the contrary if the knife appears smeared
+and slimy. In good bacon the fat is white, and the lean sticks
+close to the bone; if it is streaked with yellow, the meat is
+rusty, and unfit to eat.
+
+Pork in every form should be thoroughly cooked. If the least
+under-done, it is disgusting and unwholesome.
+
+
+TO ROAST A PIG.
+
+Begin your preparations by making the stuffing. Take a sufficient
+quantity of grated stale bread, and mix it with sage and sweet
+marjoram rubbed fine or powdered; also some grated lemon-peel.
+Season it with pepper, salt, powdered nutmeg and mace; mix in
+butter enough to moisten it, and some beaten yolk of egg to bind
+it. Let the whole be very well incorporated.
+
+The pig should be newly killed, (that morning if possible,) nicely
+cleaned, fat, and not too large. Wash it well in cold water, and
+cut off the feet close to the joints, leaving some skin all round
+to fold over the ends. Take out the liver and heart, and reserve
+them, with the feet, to make the gravy. Truss back the legs. Fill
+the body with the stuffing (it must be quite full) and then sew it
+up, or tie it round with a buttered twine. Put the pig on the
+spit, and place it before a clear brisk fire, but not too near
+lest it scorch. The fire should be largest at the ends, that the
+middle of the pig may not be done before the extremities. If you
+find the heat too great in the centre, you may diminish it by
+placing a flat-iron before the fire. When you first put it down,
+wash the pig all over with salt and water; afterwards rub it
+frequently with a feather dipped in sweet oil, or with fresh
+butter tied in a rag. If you baste it with any thing else, or with
+its own dripping, the skin will not be crisp. Take care not to
+blister or burn the outside by keeping it too near the fire. A
+good sized pig will require at least three hours' roasting.
+
+Unless a pig is very small it is seldom sent to table whole. Take
+the spit from the fire, and place it across a large dish: then,
+having cut off the head with a sharp knife, and cut down the back,
+slip the spit out. Lay the two halves of the body close together
+in the dish, and place half the head on each side. Garnish with
+sliced lemon.
+
+For the gravy,--take, that from the dripping-pan and skim it well.
+Having boiled the heart, liver, and feet, with some minced sage in
+a very little water, cut the meat from the feet, and chop it. Chop
+also the liver and heart. Put all into a small sauce-pan, adding a
+little of the water that they were boiled in, and some bits of
+butter rolled in flour. Flavour it with a glass of Madeira, and
+some grated nutmeg. Give it a boil up, and send it to table in a
+gravy-boat.
+
+You may serve up with the pig, apple-sauce, cranberry sauce, or
+bread-sauce in a small tureen; or currant jelly.
+
+If you bake the pig instead of roasting it, rub it from time to
+time with fresh butter tied in a rag.
+
+
+TO ROAST A LEG OF PORK.
+
+Take a sharp knife and score the skin across in narrow stripes
+(you may cross it again so as to form diamonds) and rub in some
+powdered sage. Raise the skin at the knuckle, and put in a
+stuffing of minced onion and sage, bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, and
+beaten yolk of egg. Fasten it down with a buttered string, or with
+skewers. You may make deep incisions in the meat of the large end
+of the leg, and stuff them also; pressing in the filling very
+hard. Rub a little sweet oil all over the skin with a brush or a
+goose feather, to make it crisp and of a handsome brown. Do not
+place the spit too near the fire, lest the skin should burn and
+blister. A leg of pork will require from three to four hours to
+roast. Moisten it all the time by brushing it with sweet oil, or
+with fresh butter tied in a rag. To baste it with its own dripping
+will make the skin tough and hard. Skim the fat carefully from the
+gravy, which should be thickened with a little flour.
+
+A roast leg of pork should always be accompanied by apple-sauce,
+and by mashed potato and mashed turnips.
+
+
+TO ROAST A LOIN OF PORK.
+
+Score the skin in narrow strips, and rub it all over with a
+mixture of powdered sage leaves, pepper and salt. Have ready a
+force-meat or stuffing of minced onions and sage, mixed with a
+little grated bread and beaten yolk of egg, and seasoned with
+pepper and salt. Make deep incisions between the ribs and fill
+them with this stuffing. Put it on the spit before a clear fire
+and moisten it with butter or sweet oil, rubbed lightly over it.
+It will require three hours to roast.
+
+Having skimmed the gravy well, thicken it with a little flour, and
+serve it up in a boat. Have ready some apple-sauce to eat with the
+pork. Also mashed turnips and mashed potatoes.
+
+You may roast in the same manner, a shoulder, spare-rib, or chine
+of pork; seasoning it with sage and onion.
+
+
+TO ROAST A MIDDLING OR SPRING PIECE OF PORK.
+
+Make a force-meat of grated bread, and minced onion and sage,
+pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg; mix it well, and spread it
+all over the inside of the pork. Then roll up the meat, and with a
+sharp knife score it round in circles, rubbing powdered sage into
+the cuts. Tie a buttered twine round the roll of meat so as to
+keep it together in every direction. Put a hook through one end,
+and roast the pork before a clear brisk fire, moistening the skin
+occasionally with butter. Or you may bake it in a Dutch oven. It
+is a good side dish. Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and
+flavour it with a glass of wine. Have currant jelly to eat with
+it.
+
+It should be delicate young pork.
+
+
+TO STEW PORK.
+
+Take a nice piece of the fillet or leg of fresh pork; rub it with
+a little salt, and score the skin. Put it into a pot with
+sufficient water to cover it, and stew it gently for two hours or
+more, in proportion to its size. Then put into the same pot a
+dozen or more sweet potatoes, scraped, split, and cut in pieces.
+Let the whole stew gently together for an hour and a half, or till
+all is thoroughly done, skimming it frequently. Serve up all
+together in a large dish.
+
+This stew will be found very good. For sweet potatoes you may
+substitute white ones mixed with sliced turnips, or parsnips
+scraped or split.
+
+
+TO BOIL CORNED PORK.
+
+Take a nice piece of fresh pork, (the leg is the best,) rub it
+with salt, and let it lie in the salt two days. Boil it slowly in
+plenty of water, skimming it well. When the meat is about half
+done, you may put into the same pot a fine cabbage, washed clean
+and quartered. The pork and the cabbage should be thoroughly done,
+and tender throughout. Send them to table in separate dishes,
+having drained and squeezed all the water out of the cabbage. Take
+off the skin of the pork, and touch the outside at intervals with
+spots of cayenne pepper. Eat mustard with it.
+
+Pork is never boiled unless corned or salted.
+
+
+PICKLED PORK AND PEASE PUDDING.
+
+Soak the pork all night in cold water, and wash and scrape it
+clean. Put it on early in the day, as it will take a long time to
+boil, and must boil slowly. Skim it frequently. Boil in a separate
+pot greens or cabbage to eat with it; also parsnips and potatoes.
+
+Pease pudding is a frequent accompaniment to pickled pork, and is
+very generally liked. To make a small pudding, you must have ready
+a quart of dried split pease, which have been soaked all night in
+cold water. Tie them in a cloth, (leaving room for them to swell,)
+and boil them slowly till they are tender. Drain them, and rub
+them through a cullender or a sieve into a deep dish; season them
+with pepper and salt, and mix with them an ounce of butter, and
+two beaten eggs. Beat all well together till thoroughly mixed. Dip
+a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle it with flour, and put the
+pudding into it. Tie it up very tightly, leaving a small space
+between the mixture and the tying, (as the pudding will still
+swell a little,) and boil it an hour longer. Send it to table and
+eat it with the pork.
+
+You may make a pease pudding in a plain and less delicate way, by
+simply seasoning the pease with pepper and salt, (having first
+soaked them well,) tying them in a cloth, and putting them to boil
+in the same pot with the pork, taking care to make the string very
+tight, so that the water may not get in. When all is done, and you
+turn out the pudding, cut it into thick slices and lay it round
+the pork.
+
+Pickled pork is frequently accompanied by dried beans and hominy.
+
+
+PORK AND BEANS.
+
+Allow two pounds of pickled pork to two quarts of dried beans. If
+the meat is very salt put it in soak over night. Put the beans
+into a pot with cold water, and let them hang all night over the
+embers of the fire, or set them in the chimney corner, that they
+may warm as well as soak. Early in the morning rinse them through
+a cullender. Score the rind of the pork, (which should not be a
+very fat piece,) and put the meat into a clean pot with the beans,
+which must be seasoned with pepper. Let them boil slowly together
+for about two hours, and carefully remove all the scum and fat
+that rises to the top. Then take them out; lay the pork in a tin
+pan, and cover the meat with the beans, adding a very little
+water. Put it into an oven, and bake it four hours.
+
+This is a homely dish, but is by many persons much liked. It is
+customary to bring it to table in the pan in which it is baked.
+
+
+PORK STEAKS.
+
+Pork steaks or chops should be taken from the neck, or the loin.
+Cut them about half an inch thick, remove the skin, trim them
+neatly, and beat them. Season them with pepper, salt, and powdered
+sage-leaves or sweet marjoram, and broil them over a clear fire
+till quite done all through, turning them once. They require much
+longer broiling than beef-steaks of mutton chops. When you think
+they are nearly done, take up one on a plate and try it. If it is
+the least red inside, return it to the gridiron. Have ready a
+gravy made of the trimmings, or any coarse pieces of pork stewed
+in a little water with chopped onions and sage, and skimmed
+carefully. When all the essence is extracted, take out the bits of
+meat, &c., and serve up the gravy in a boat to eat with the
+steaks.
+
+They should be accompanied with apple-sauce.
+
+
+PORK CUTLETS.
+
+Cut them from the leg, and remove the skin; trim them and beat
+them, and sprinkle on salt and pepper. Prepare some beaten egg in
+a pan; and on a flat dish a mixture of bread-crumbs, minced onion,
+and sage. Put some lard or drippings into a frying-pan over the
+fire; and when it boils, put in the cutlets; having dipped every
+one first in the egg, and then in the seasoning. Fry them twenty
+or thirty minutes, turning them often. After you have taken them
+out of the frying-pan, skim the gravy, dredge in a little flour,
+give it one boil, and then pour it on the dish round the cutlets.
+
+Have apple-sauce to eat with them.
+
+Pork cutlets prepared in this manner may be stewed instead of
+being fried. Add to them a little water, and stew them slowly till
+thoroughly done, keeping them closely covered except when you
+remove the lid to skim them.
+
+
+PORK PIE.
+
+Take the lean of a leg or loin of fresh pork, and season it with
+pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Cover the bottom and sides of a deep
+dish, with, a good paste, made with a pound of butter to two
+pounds of flour, and rolled out thick. Put in a layer of pork, and
+then a layer of pippin apples, pared, cored, and cut small. Strew
+over the apples sufficient sugar to make them very sweet. Then
+place another layer of pork, and so on till the dish is full. Pour
+in half a pint or more of water, or of white wine. Cover the pie
+with a thick lid of paste, and notch and ornament it according to
+your taste.
+
+Set it in a brisk oven, and bake it well.
+
+
+HAM PIE.
+
+Cover the sides and bottom of a dish with a good pasts rolled out
+thick. Have ready some slices of cold boiled ham, about half an
+inch thick, some eggs boiled hard and sliced, and a large young
+fowl cleaned and Cut up. Put a layer of ham at the bottom, then
+the fowl, then the eggs, and then another layer of ham. Shake on
+some pepper, and pour in some water, or what will be much better,
+some veal gravy. Cover the pie with a crust, notch and ornament
+it, and bake it well.
+
+Some mushrooms will greatly improve it.
+
+Small button mushrooms will keep very well in a bottle of sweet
+oil--first peeling the skin, and cutting off the stalks.
+
+
+HAM SANDWICHES
+
+Cut some thin slices of bread very neatly, having slightly
+buttered them; and, if you choose, spread on a very little
+mustard. Have ready some very thin slices of cold boiled ham, and
+lay one between two slices of bread. You may either roll them up,
+or lay them flat on the plates. They are used at supper, or at
+luncheon.
+
+You may substitute for the ham, cold smoked tongue, shred or
+grated.
+
+
+BROILED HAM.
+
+Cut the ham into very thin slices, (the thinner the better.) Soak
+them in hot water at least half an hour, (a whole hour is better,)
+to draw out some of the salt; changing the water several times,
+and always pouring it on scalding hot. This process will not only
+extract the superfluous salt (which would otherwise ooze out in
+broiling and remain sticking about the surface of the meat) but it
+makes the ham more tender and mellow. After soaking, dry the
+slices in a cloth, and then heat your gridiron, and broil them
+over a clear fire.
+
+If you have cold boiled ham, it is better for broiling than that
+which is raw; and being boiled, will require no soaking before you
+put it on the gridiron.
+
+If you wish to serve up eggs with the ham, put some lard into a
+very clean frying-pan, and make it boiling hot. Break the eggs
+separately into a saucer, that in case a bad one should be among
+them it may not mix with the rest. Slip each egg gently into the
+frying-pan. Do not turn them while they are frying, but keep
+pouring some of the hot lard over them with an iron spoon; this
+will do them sufficiently on the upper side. They will be done
+enough in about three minutes; the white must retain its
+transparency so that the yolk will be seen through it. When done,
+take them up with a tin slice, drain off the lard, and if any part
+of the white is discoloured or ragged, trim it off. Lay a fried
+egg upon each slice of the broiled ham, and send them to table
+hot.
+
+This is a much nicer way than the common practice of frying the
+ham or bacon with the eggs. Some persons broil or fry the ham
+without eggs, and send it to table cut into little slips or
+mouthfuls.
+
+To curl small pieces of ham for garnishing, slice as thin as
+possible some that has been boiled or parboiled. The pieces should
+be about two inches square. Roll it up round little wooden
+skewers, and put it into a cheese toaster, or into a tin oven, and
+set it before the fire for eight or ten minutes. When it is done,
+slip out the skewers.
+
+
+TO BOIL A HAM.
+
+Hams should always be soaked in water previous to boiling, to draw
+out a portion of the salt, and to make them tender. They will
+soften more easily if soaked in lukewarm water. If it is a new
+ham, and not very salt or hard, you need not put it in water till
+the evening before you intend to cook it. An older one will
+require twenty-four hours' soaking; and one that is very old and
+hard should be kept in soak two or three days, frequently changing
+the water, which must be soft. Soak it in a tub, and keep it well
+covered. When you take it out of the water to prepare it for
+boiling, scrape and trim it nicely, and pare off all the bad
+looking parts.
+
+Early in the morning put it into a large pot or kettle with plenty
+of cold water. Place it over a slow fire that it may heat
+gradually; it should not come to a boil in less than an hour and a
+half, or two hours. When it boils, quicken the fire, and skim the
+pot carefully. Then simmer it gently four or fire hours or more,
+according to its size. A ham weighing fifteen pounds should simmer
+five hours after it has come to a boil. Keep the pot well skimmed.
+
+When it is done, take it up, carefully strip off the skin, and
+reserve it to cover the ham when it is put away cold. Rub the ham
+all over with some beaten egg, and strew on it fine bread-raspings
+shaken through the lid of a dredging box. Then place it in an oven
+to brown and crisp, or on a hot dish set over the pot before the
+fire. Cut some writing paper into a handsome fringe, and twist it
+round the shank-bone before you send the ham to table. Garnish the
+edge of the dish with little piles or spots of rasped crust of
+bread.
+
+In carving a ham, begin not quite in the centre, but a little
+nearer to the hock. Cut the slices very thin. It is not only a
+most ungenteel practice to cut ham in thick slices, but it much
+impairs the flavour.
+
+When you put it away after dinner, skewer on again the skin. This
+will make it keep the better.
+
+Ham should always be accompanied by green vegetables, such as
+asparagus, peas, beans, spinach, cauliflower, brocoli, &c.
+
+Bacon also should be well soaked before it is cooked; and it
+should be boiled very slowly, and for a long time. The greens may
+be boiled with the meat. Take care to skim the pot carefully, and
+to drain and squeeze the greens very well before you send them to
+table. If there are yellow streaks in the lean of the bacon, it is
+rusty, and unfit to eat.
+
+
+TO ROAST A HAM.
+
+Take a very fine ham (a Westphalia one if you can procure it) and
+soak it in lukewarm water for a day or two, changing the water
+frequently. The day before you intend cooking it, take the ham out
+of the water, and (having removed the skin) trim it nicely, and
+pour over it a bottle of Madeira or sherry. Let it steep till next
+morning, frequently during the day washing the wine over it. Put
+it on the spit in time to allow at least six hours for slowly
+roasting it. Baste it continually with hot water. When it is done,
+dredge it all over with fine bread-raspings shaken on through the
+top of the dredging box; and set it before the fire to brown.
+
+For gravy, take the wine in which the ham was steeped, and add to
+it the essence or juice which flowed from the meat when taken from
+the spit. Squeeze in the juice of two lemons. Put it into a sauce-pan,
+and boil and skim it. Send it to table in a boat. Cover the
+shank of the ham (which should have been sawed short) with bunches
+of double parsley, and ornament it with a cluster of flowers cut
+out with a penknife from raw carrots, beets, and turnips; and made
+to imitate marygolds, and red and white roses.
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR CURING HAM OR BACON.
+
+Ham or bacon, however well cured, will never be good unless the
+pork of which it is made has been properly fed. The hogs should be
+well fattened on corn, and fed with it about eight weeks, allowing
+ten bushels to each hog. They are best for curing when from two to
+four years old, and should not weigh more than one hundred and
+fifty or one hundred and sixty pounds. The first four weeks they
+may be fed on mush, or on Indian meal moistened with water; the
+remaining four on corn unground; giving them always as much as
+they will eat. Soap-suds may be given to them three or four times
+a week; or oftener if convenient.
+
+When killed and cut up, begin immediately to salt them. Rub the
+outside of each ham with a tea-spoonful of powdered saltpetre, and
+the inside with a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Having mixed
+together brown sugar and fine salt, in the proportion of a pound
+and a half of brown sugar to a quart of salt, rub the pork well
+with it. This quantity of sugar and salt will be sufficient for
+fifty pounds of meat. Have ready some large tubs, the bottoms
+sprinkled with salt, and lay the meat in the tubs with the skin
+downward. Put plenty of salt between each layer of meat. After it
+has lain eight days, take it out and wipe off all the salt, and
+wash the tubs. Make a pickle of soft water, equal quantities of
+salt and molasses, and a little saltpetre; allowing four ounces of
+saltpetre to two quarts of molasses and two quarts of salt, which
+is the proportion for fifty pounds of meat. The pickle must be
+strong enough to bear up an egg. Boil and skim it; and when it is
+cold, pour it over the meat, which must be turned every day and
+basted with the pickle. The hams should remain in the pickle at
+least four weeks; the shoulders and middlings of the bacon three
+weeks; and the jowls two weeks. They should then be taken out and
+smoked. Having washed off the pickle, before you smoke the meat,
+bury it, while wet, in a tub of bran. This will form a crust over
+it, and prevent evaporation of the juices. Let the smoke-house be
+ready to receive the meat immediately. Take it out of the tub
+after it has lain half an hour, and rub the bran evenly over it.
+Then hang it up to smoke with the small end downwards. The smoke-house
+should be dark and cool, and should stand alone, for the
+heat occasioned by an adjoining--building may spoil the meat, or
+produce insects. Keep up a good smoke all day, but have no blaze.
+Hickory is the best wood for a smoke-house fire, In three or four
+weeks the meat will be sufficiently smoked, and fit for use.
+During the process it should be occasionally taken down, examined,
+and hung up again. The best way of keeping hams is to wrap them in
+paper, or, to sew them in coarse cloths (which should be white-washed)
+and bury them in a barrel of hickory ashes. The ashes must
+be frequently changed.
+
+An old ham will require longer to soak, and longer to boil than a
+new one.
+
+Tongues may be cured in the above manner.
+
+
+LIVER PUDDINGS.
+
+Boil some pigs' livers. When cold, mince them, and season them
+with pepper, salt, and some sage and sweet marjoram rubbed fine.
+You may add some powdered cloves. Have ready some large skins
+nicely cleaned, and fill them with the mixture, tying up the ends
+securely. Prick them with a fork to prevent their bursting; put
+them into hot water, and boil them slowly for about an hour. They
+will require no farther cooking before you eat them. Keep them in
+stone jars closely covered. They are eaten cold at breakfast or
+supper, cut into slices an inch thick or more; or they may be cut
+into large pieces, and broiled or fried.
+
+
+COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT.
+
+Having cleared it from the skin, sinews, and gristle, take six
+pounds of the lean of young fresh pork, and three pounds of the
+fat, and mince it all as fine as possible. Take some dried sage,
+pick off the leaves and rub them to powder, allowing three tea-spoonfuls
+to each pound of meat. Having mixed the fat and lean
+well together, and seasoned it with nine tea-spoonfuls of pepper,
+and the same quantity of salt, strew on the powdered sage, and mix
+the whole very well with your hands. Put it away in a stone jar,
+packing it down hard; and keep it closely covered. Set the jar in
+a cool dry place.
+
+When you wish to use the sausage-meat, make it into flat cakes
+about an inch thick and the size of a dollar; dredge them with
+flour, and fry them in butter or dripping, over rather a slow
+fire, till they are well browned on both sides, and thoroughly
+done.
+
+Sausages are seldom eaten except at breakfast.
+
+
+FINE SAUSAGES.
+
+Take some fresh pork, (the leg is best,) and clear it from the
+skin, sinews, and gristle. Allow two pounds of fat to three pounds
+of lean. Mince it all very fine, and season it with two ounces and
+a half of salt, half an ounce of pepper, thirty cloves, and a
+dozen blades of mace powdered, three grated, nutmegs, six table-spoonfuls
+of powdered sage, and two tea-spoonfuls of powdered
+rosemary. Mix all well together. Put it into a stone jar, and
+press it down very hard. Cover it closely, and keep it in a dry
+cool place.
+
+When you use this sausage-meat, mix with it some beaten yolk of
+egg, and make it into balls or cakes. Dredge them with flour, and
+fry them in butter.
+
+
+BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.
+
+Take ten pounds of beef, and four pounds of pork; two-thirds of
+the meat should be lean, and only one third fat. Chop it very
+fine, and mix it well together. Then season it with six ounces of
+fine salt, one ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of cayenne,
+one table-spoonful of powdered cloves; and one clove or garlic
+minced very fine.
+
+Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned and prepared, (they
+should be beef-skins,) and wash them in salt and vinegar. Fill
+them with the above mixture, and secure the ends by tying them
+with packthread or fine twine. Make a brine of salt and water
+strong enough to bear up an egg. Put the sausages into it, and'
+let them lie for three weeks, turning them daily. Then take them
+out, wipe them dry, hang them up and smoke them. Before you put
+them away rub them all over with, sweet oil,
+
+Keep them in ashes. That of vine-twigs is best for them.
+
+You may fry them or not before you eat them.
+
+
+PORK CHEESE.
+
+Take the heads, tongues, and feet of young fresh pork, or any
+other pieces that are convenient. Having removed the skin, boil
+them till all the meat is quite tender, and can be easily stripped
+from the bones. Then chop it small, and season it with salt and
+black pepper to your taste, and if you choose, some beaten cloves.
+Add sage-leaves and sweet marjoram, minced fine, or rubbed to
+powder. Mix the whole very well together with your hands. Put it
+into deep pans, with straight sides, (the shape of a cheese,)
+press it down hard and closely with a plate that will fit the pan;
+putting the under side of the plate next to the meat, and placing
+a heavy weight on it. In two or three days it will be fit for use,
+and you may turn it out of the pan. Send it to table cut in
+slices, and use mustard and vinegar with it. It is generally eaten
+at supper or breakfast.
+
+
+PIG'S FEET AND EARS SOUSED.
+
+Having cleaned them properly, and removed the skin, boil them
+slowly till they are quite tender, and then split the feet and put
+them with the ears into salt and vinegar, flavoured with a little
+mace. Cover the jar closely, and set it away. When you use them,
+dry each piece well with a cloth; dip them first in beaten yolk of
+egg, and then in bread-crumbs, and fry them nicely in butter or
+lard. Or you may eat them cold, just out of the vinegar.
+
+If you intend keeping them some time, you must make a fresh pickle
+for them every other day.
+
+
+TO IMITATE WESTPHALIA HAM.
+
+The very finest pork must be used for these hams. Mix together an
+equal quantity of powdered saltpetre and brown sugar, and rub it
+well into the hams. Next day make a pickle in sufficient quantity
+to cover them very well. The proportions of the ingredients are a
+pound and a half of fine salt, half a pound of brown sugar, an
+ounce of black pepper and an ounce of cloves pounded to powder, a
+small bit of sal prunella, and a quart of stale strong beer or
+porter. Boil them all together, so as to make a pickle that will
+bear up an egg. Pour it boiling hot over the meat, and let it lie
+in the pickle two weeks, turning it two or three times every day,
+and basting or washing it with the liquid. Then take out the hams,
+rub them with bran and smoke them for a fortnight. When done, keep
+them in a barrel of wood ashes.
+
+In cooking these hams simmer them slowly for seven or eight hours.
+
+To imitate the shape of the real Westphalia hams, cut some of the
+meat off the under side of the thick part, so as to give them a
+flat appearance. Do this before you begin to cure them, first
+loosening the skin and afterwards sewing it on again.
+
+The ashes in which you keep them must be changed frequently,
+wiping the hams when you take them out.
+
+
+TO GLAZE A COLD HAM.
+
+With a brush or quill feather go all over the ham with beaten yolk
+of egg. Then cover it thickly with pounded cracker, made as fine
+as flour, or with grated crumbs of stale bread. Lastly go over it
+with thick cream. Put it to brown in the oven of a stove, or brown
+it on the spit of a tin roaster, set before the fire and turned
+frequently.
+
+This glazing will be found delicious.
+
+
+
+
+VENISON, &c.
+
+
+TO ROAST A SADDLE OR HAUNCH OF VENISON.
+
+Wipe it all over with a sponge dipped in warm water Then rub the
+skin with lard or nice dripping. Cover the fat with sheets of
+paper two double, buttered, and tied on with packthread that has
+been soaked to keep it from burning. Or, what is still better, you
+may cover the first sheets of paper with a coarse paste of flour
+and water rolled out half an inch thick, and then cover the paste
+with the second sheets of paper, securing the whole well with the
+string to prevent its falling off. Place the venison on the spit
+before a strong clear fire, such as you would have for a sirloin
+of beef, and let the fire be well kept up all the time. Put some
+claret and butter into the dripping-pan and baste the meat with it
+frequently. If wrapped in paste, it will not be done in less than
+five hours. Half an hour before you take it up, remove the
+coverings carefully, place the meat nearer to the fire, baste it
+with fresh butter and dredge it very lightly with flour. Send it
+to table with fringed white paper wrapped round the bone, and its
+own gravy well skimmed. Have currant jelly to eat with it. As
+venison chills immediately, the plates should be kept on heaters.
+
+You may make another gravy with a pound and a half of scraps and
+trimmings or inferior pieces of venison, put into a sauce-pan with
+three pints of water, a few cloves, a few blades of mace, half a
+nutmeg; and salt and cayenne to your taste. Boil it down slowly to
+a pint. Then skim off the fat, and strain the gravy into a clean
+sauce-pan. Add to it half a pint of currant jelly, half a pint of
+claret, and near a quarter of a pound of butter divided into bits
+and rolled in flour. Send it to table in two small tureens or
+sauce-boats. This gravy will be found very fine.
+
+Venison should never be roasted unless very fat. The shoulder is a
+roasting piece, and may be done without the paper or paste.
+
+Venison is best when quite fresh; but if it is expedient to keep
+it a week before you cook it, wash it well with milk and water,
+and then dry it perfectly with cloths till there is not the least
+damp remaining on it. Then mix together powdered ginger and
+pepper, and rub it well over every part of the meat. Do not,
+however, attempt to keep it unless the weather is quite cold.
+
+
+TO HASH COLD VENISON.
+
+Cut the meat in nice small slices, and put the trimmings and bones
+into a sauce-pan with barely water enough to cover them. Let them
+stew for an hour. Then strain the liquid into a stew-pan; add to
+it some bits of butter rolled in flour, and whatever gravy was
+left of the venison the day before. Stir in some currant jelly,
+and give it a boil up. Then put in the meat, and keep it over the
+fire just long enough to warm it through; but do not allow it to
+boil, as it has been once cooked already.
+
+
+VENISON STEAKS.
+
+Cut them from the neck or haunch. Season them with pepper and
+salt. When the gridiron has been well heated over a bed of bright
+coals, grease the bars, and lay the steaks upon it. Broil them
+well, turning them once, and taking care to save as much of the
+gravy as possible. Serve them up with some currant jelly laid on
+each steak. Have your plates set on heaters.
+
+
+VENISON PASTY.
+
+The neck, breast, and shoulder are the parts used for a venison
+pie or pasty. Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean together) and
+put the bones and trimmings into a stew-pan with pepper and salt,
+and water or veal broth enough to cover it. Simmer it till you
+have drawn out a good gravy. Then strain it.
+
+In the mean time make a good rich paste, and roll it rather thick.
+Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with one sheet of it,
+and put in your meat, having seasoned it with pepper, salt,
+nutmeg, and mace. Pour in the gravy which you have prepared from
+the trimmings, and two glasses of port or claret, and lay on the
+top some hits of butter rolled in flour. Cover the pie with a
+thick lid of paste, and ornament it handsomely with leaves and
+flowers formed with a tin cutter. Bake it two hours or more,
+according to its size.
+
+
+VENISON HAMS.
+
+Venison for hams must be newly killed, and in every respect as
+good as possible. Mix together equal quantities of salt and brown
+sugar, and rub it well into the hams. Put them into a tub, and let
+them lie seven days; turning them and rubbing them daily with the
+mixture of salt and sugar. Next mix together saltpetre and common
+salt, in the proportion of two ounces of saltpetre to a handful of
+salt. Rub it well into your hams, and let them lie a week longer.
+Then wipe them, rub them with bran, and smoke them a fortnight
+over hickory wood. Pack them in wood ashes.
+
+Venison ham must not be cooked before it is eaten. It is used for
+the tea-table, chipped or shred like dried beef, to which it is
+considered very superior.
+
+It will not keep as long as other smoked meat.
+
+
+TO ROAST A KID.
+
+A kid should be cooked the day it is killed, or the day after at
+farthest. They are best from three to four months old, and are
+only eaten while they live on milk.
+
+Wash the kid well, wipe it dry, and truss it. Stuff the body with
+a force-meat of grated bread, butter or suet, sweet herbs, pepper,
+salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and beaten egg; and sew it up to
+keep the stuffing in its place. Put it on the spit and rub it over
+with lard, or sweet oil. Put a little salt and water into the
+dripping-pan, and baste the kid first with that, and afterwards
+with its own gravy. Or you may make it very nice by basting it
+with cream. It should roast about three hours. At the last,
+transfer the gravy to a small sauce-pan; thicken it with a little
+butter rolled in flour, give it a boil up, and send it to table in
+a boat. Garnish the kid with lumps of currant jelly laid round the
+edge of the dish.
+
+A fawn (which should never be kept more than one day) may be
+roasted in the same manner; also, a hare, or a couple of rabbits.
+
+You may send to table, to eat with the kid, a dish of chestnuts
+boiled or roasted, and divested of the shells.
+
+
+TO ROAST A HARE.
+
+If a hare is old do not roast it, but make soup of it. Wash and
+soak it in water for an hour, and change the water several times,
+having made a little slit in the neck to let out the blood. Take
+out the heart and liver, and scald them. Drain, dry, and truss the
+hare. Make a force-meat richer and more moist than usual, and add
+to it the heart and liver minced fine. Soak the bread-crumbs in a
+little claret before you mix them with the other ingredients.
+Stuff the body of the hare with this force-meat, and sew it up.
+Put it on the spit, rub it with butter, and roast it before a
+brisk fire. For the first half hour baste it with butter; and
+afterwards with cream, or with milk thickened with beaten yolk of
+egg. At the last, dredge it lightly with flour. The hare will
+require about two hours roasting.
+
+For sauce, take the drippings of the hare mixed with cream or with
+claret, and a little lemon-juice, a bit of butter, and some bread-crumbs.
+Give it a boil up, and send it to table in a boat. Garnish
+the hare with slices of currant jelly laid round it in the dish.
+
+
+FRICASSEED RABBITS.
+
+The best way of cooking rabbits is to fricassee them. Take a
+couple of fine ones, and cut them up, or disjoint them. Put them
+into a stew-pan; season them with cayenne pepper and salt, some
+chopped parsley, and some powdered mace. Pour in a pint of warm
+water (or of veal broth, if you have it) and stew it over a slow
+fire till the rabbits are quite tender; adding (when they are
+about half done) some bits of butter rolled in flour. Just before
+you take it from the fire, enrich the gravy with a jill or more of
+thick cream with some nutmeg grated into it. Stir the gravy well,
+but take care not to let it boil after the cream is in, lest it
+curdle.
+
+Put the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over
+them.
+
+
+TO STEW RABBITS.
+
+Having trussed the rabbits, lay them in a pan of warm water for
+about fifteen minutes. Then put them into a pot with plenty of
+water and a little salt, and stew them slowly for about an hour,
+or till they are quite tender. In the mean time, peel and boil in
+a sauce-pan a dozen onions. When they are quite tender all
+through, take them out, and drain and slice them. Have ready some
+drawn, butter, prepared by taking six ounces of butter, (cut into
+bits and rolled in about three tea-spoonfuls of flour,) and
+melting it in a jill of milk. After shaking it round-over hot
+coals till it simmers, add to it the onions, and give it one boil
+up.
+
+When the rabbits are done stewing lay them on a large dish (having
+first cut off their heads, which should not he sent to table) and
+cover them all over with the onion-sauce, to which you may add
+some grated nutmeg.
+
+
+TO FRY RABBITS,
+
+Having washed the rabbits well, put them into a pan of cold water,
+and let them lie in it two or three hours. Then cut them into
+joints, dry them in a cloth, dredge them with flour, strew them
+with chopped parsley, and fry them in butter. After you take them
+out of the frying-pan, stir a wine-glass of cream into the gravy,
+or the beaten yolk of an egg. Do not let it boil, but pour it at
+once into the dish with the rabbits.
+
+Rabbits are very good baked in a pie. A boiled or pot-pie may be
+made of them.
+
+They may he stuffed with force-meat and roasted, basting them with
+butter. Cut off their heads before you send them to table.
+
+
+
+
+POULTRY, GAME, &c.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS
+
+In buying poultry choose those that are fresh and fat. Half-grown
+poultry is comparatively insipid; it is best when full-grown but
+not old. Old poultry is tough and hard. An old goose is so tough
+as to be frequently uneatable. When poultry is young the skin is
+thin and tender, and can be easily tipped by trying it with a pin;
+the legs are smooth; the feet moist and limber; and the eyes full
+and bright. The body should be thick and the breast fat. The bill
+and feet of a young goose are yellow, and have but few hairs on
+them; when old they are red and hairy.
+
+Poultry is best when killed overnight, as if cooked too soon
+after-killing, it is hard and does not taste well. It is not the
+custom in America, as in some parts of Europe, to keep game, or
+indeed any sort of eatable, till it begins to taint; all food when
+inclining to decomposition being regarded by us with disgust.
+
+When poultry or game is frozen, it should be brought into the
+kitchen early in the morning of the day on which it is to be
+cooked. It may be thawed by laying it several hours in cold water.
+If it is not thawed it will require double the time to cook, and
+will be tough and tasteless when done. In drawing poultry be very
+careful not to break the gall, lest its disagreeable bitterness
+should be communicated to the liver.
+
+Poultry should be always scalded in hot water to make the feathers
+come out easily. Before they are cooked they should be held for a
+moment over the blaze of the fire to singe off the hairs that are
+about the skin. The head, neck, and feet should be cut off, and
+the ends of the legs skewered in the bodies. A string should be
+tied tightly round.
+
+
+TO BOIL A PAIR OF FOWLS.
+
+Make a force-meat in the usual manner, of grated, bread-crumbs,
+chopped sweet herbs, butter, pepper, salt, and yolk of egg. Fill
+the bodies of the fowls with the stuffing, and tie a string firmly
+round them. Skewer the livers and gizzards to the sides, under the
+wings. Dredge them with flour, and put them into a pot with just
+enough of water to cook them; cover it closely, and put it over a
+moderate fire. As soon as the scum rises, take off the pot and
+skim it. Then cover it again, and boil it slowly half an hour.
+Afterwards diminish the fire, and let them stew slowly till quite
+tender. An hour altogether is generally sufficient to boil a pair
+of fowls, unless they are quite old. By doing them slowly (rather
+stewing than boiling) the skin will not break, and they will be
+whiter and more tender than if boiled fast.
+
+Serve them up with egg-sauce in a boat.
+
+Young chickens are better for being soaked two hours in skim milk,
+previous to boiling. You need not stuff them. Boil or stew them,
+slowly in the same manner as large fowls. Three quarters of an
+hour will cook them.
+
+Serve them up with parsley-sauce, and garnish with parsley.
+
+Boiled fowls should be accompanied by ham or smoked tongue.
+
+
+TO ROAST A PAIR. OF FOWLS.
+
+Leave out the livers, gizzards and hearts, to be chopped and put
+into the gravy.--Fill the crops and bodies of the fowls with a
+force-meat, put them before a clear fire and roast them an hour,
+basting them with butter or with clarified dripping.
+
+Having stewed the necks, gizzards, livers, and hearts in a very
+little water, strain it and mix it hot with the gravy that has
+dripped from the fowls, and which must be first skimmed. Thicken
+it with a little browned flour, add to it the livers, hearts, and
+gizzards chopped small. Send the fowls to table with the gravy in
+a boat, and have cranberry-sauce to eat with them.
+
+
+BROILED CHICKENS.
+
+Split a pair of chickens down the back, and beat them flat, Wipe
+the inside, season them with pepper and salt, and let them, lie
+while you prepare some beaten yolk of egg and grated bread-crumbs.
+Wash the outside of the chickens all over with the egg, and then
+strew on the bread-crumbs. Have ready a hot gridiron over a bed of
+bright coals. Lay the chickens on it with the inside downwards, or
+next the fire. Broil them about three quarters of an hour, keeping
+them covered with a plate. Just before you take them up, lay some
+small pieces of butter on them.
+
+In preparing chickens for broiling, you may parboil them about ten
+minutes, to ensure their being sufficiently cooked; as it is
+difficult to broil the thick parts thoroughly without burning the
+rest.
+
+
+FRICASSEED CHICKENS.
+
+Having cut up your chickens, lay them in cold water till all the
+blood is drawn out. Then wipe the pieces, season them with pepper
+and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in lard or butter;
+they should be of a fine brown on both sides. When they are quite
+done, take them, out of the frying-pan, cover them up, and set
+them by the fire to keep warm. Skim the gravy in the frying-pan
+and pour into it half a pint of cream; season it with a little
+nutmeg, pepper and salt, and thicken it with, a small bit of
+butter rolled in flour. Give it a boil, and then pour it round the
+chickens, which must he kept hot. Put some lard into the pan, and
+fry some parsley in It to lay on the pieces of chicken; it must be
+done green and crisp.
+
+To make a white fricassee of chickens, skin them, cut them in
+pieces, and having soaked out the blood, season them with salt,
+pepper, nutmeg and mace, and strew over them some sweet marjoram
+shred fine. Put them into a stew-pan, and pour over them half a
+pint of cream, or rich unskimmed milk. Add some butter rolled in
+Hour, and (if you choose) some small force-meat balls. Set the
+stew-pan over hot coals. Keep it closely covered, and stew or
+simmer it gently till the chicken is quite tender, but do not
+allow it to boil.
+
+You may improve it by a few small slices of cold ham.
+
+
+CHICKEN CROQUETS AND RISSOLES.
+
+Take some cold chicken, and having; cut the flesh from the bones,
+mince it small with a little suet and parsley; adding sweet
+marjoram and grated lemon-peel. Season it with pepper, salt and
+nutmeg, and having mixed the whole very well pound it to a paste
+in a marble mortar, putting in a little at a time, and moistening
+it frequently with yolk of egg that has been previously beaten.
+Then divide it into equal portions and having floured your hands,
+make it up in the shape of pears, sticking the head of a clove
+into the bottom of each to represent the blossom end, and the
+stalk of a clove into the top to look like the stem. Dip them into
+beaten yolk of egg, and then into bread-crumbs grated finely and
+sifted. Fry them in butter, and when you take them out of the pan,
+fry some parsley in it. Having drained the parsley, cover the
+bottom of a dish with it, and lay the croquets upon it. Send it to
+table as a side dish.
+
+Croquets maybe made of cold sweet-breads, or of cold veal mixed
+with ham or tongue.
+
+Rissoles are made of the same ingredients, well mixed, and beaten
+smooth in a mortar. Make a fine paste, roll it out, and cut it
+into round cakes. Then lay some of the mixture on one half of the
+cake, and fold over the other upon it, in the shape of a half-moon.
+Close and crimp the edges nicely, and fry the rissoles in
+butter. They should be of a light brown on both sides. Drain them
+and send them to table dry.
+
+
+BAKED CHICKEN PIE.
+
+Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with a thick paste.
+Having cut up your chickens, and seasoned them to your taste, with
+salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg, put them in, and lay on the top
+several pieces of butter rolled in flour. Fill up the dish about
+two-thirds with cold water. Then lay on the top crust, notching it
+handsomely. Cut a slit in the top, and stick into it an ornament
+of paste made in the form of a tulip. Bake it in a moderate oven.
+
+It will be much improved by the addition of a quarter of a hundred
+oysters; or by interspersing the pieces of chicken with slices of
+cold boiled ham.
+
+You may add also some yolks of eggs boiled hard.
+
+A duck pie may be made in the same manner. A rabbit pie also.
+
+
+A POT PIE.
+
+Take a pair of large fine fowls. Cut them up, wash the pieces, and
+season them with pepper and salt. Make a good paste in the
+proportion of a pound and a half of minced suet to three pounds of
+flour. Let there be plenty of paste, as it is always much liked by
+the eaters of pot pie. Roll out the paste not very thin, and cut
+most of it into long squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line
+them with paste nearly to the top. Lay slices of cold ham at the
+bottom of the pot, and then the pieces of fowl, interspersed all
+through with squares of paste, and potatoes pared and quartered.
+Lay a lid of paste all over the top, leaving a hole in the middle.
+Pour in about a quart of water, cover the pot, and boil it slowly
+but steadily for two hours. Half an hour before you take it up,
+put in through the hole in the centre of the crust, some bits of
+butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy. When done put the
+pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy over it.
+
+You may intersperse it all through with cold ham.
+
+A pot pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison.
+Also of beef-steaks.
+
+
+CHICKEN CURRY.
+
+Take a pair of fine fowls, and having cut them in pieces, lay them
+in salt and water till the seasoning is ready. Take two table-spoonfuls
+of powdered ginger, one table-spoonful of fresh
+turmeric, a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper; some mace, a few
+cloves, some cardamom seeds, and a little cayenne pepper with a
+small portion of salt. These last articles according to your
+taste. Put all into a mortar, and add to them eight large onions,
+chopped or cut small. Mix and beat all together, till the onions,
+spices, &c. form a paste.
+
+Put the chickens into a pan with sufficient butter rolled in
+flour, and fry them till they are brown, but not till quite done.
+While this is proceeding, set over the fire a sauce-pan three
+parts full of water, or sufficient to cover the chickens when they
+are ready. As soon as the water boils, throw in the curry-paste.
+When the paste has all dissolved, and is thoroughly mixed with the
+water, put in the pieces of chicken to boil, or rather to simmer.
+When the chicken is quite done, put it into a large dish, and eat
+it with boiled rice. The rice may either be laid round on the same
+dish, or served up separately.
+
+This is a genuine East India receipt for curry.
+
+Lamb, veal, or rabbits may be curried in the same manner.
+
+
+_To boil Rice for the Curry._
+
+Pick the rice carefully, to clear it from husks and motes. Then
+soak it in cold water for a quarter of an hour, or more. When you
+are ready to boil it, pour off the water in which it has soaked.
+Have ready a pot or sauce-pan of boiling water, into which you
+have put a little salt. Allow two quarts of water to a pound of
+rice. Sprinkle the rice gradually into the water. Boil it hard for
+twenty minutes, then take it off the fire, and pour off all the
+water that remains. Set the pot in the chimney corner with the lid
+off, while dinner is dishing, that it may have time to dry. You
+may toss it up lightly with two forks, to separate the grains
+while it is drying, but do not stir it with a spoon.
+
+
+A PILAU.
+
+Take a large fine fowl, and cover the breast with slices of fat
+bacon or ham, secured by skewers. Put it into a stew-pan with two
+sliced onions. Season it to your taste with white pepper and mace.
+Have ready a pint of rice that has been well picked, washed, and
+soaked. Cover the fowl with it. Put in as much water as will well
+cover the whole. Stew it about half an hour, or till the fowl and
+rice are thoroughly done; keeping the stew-pan closely covered.
+Dish it all together, either with the rice covering the fowl, or
+laid round it in little heaps.
+
+You may make a pilau of beef or mutton with a larger quantity of
+rice; which must not be put in at first, or it will be done too
+much, the meat requiring a longer time to stew.
+
+
+CHICKEN SALAD.
+
+The fowls for this purpose should be young and fine. You may
+either boil or roast them. They must be quite cold. Having removed
+all the skin and fat, and disjointed the fowls cut the meat from
+the bones into very small pieces, not exceeding an inch. Wash and
+split two large fine heads of celery, and cut the white part into
+pieces also about an inch long; and having mixed the chicken and
+celery together, put them into a deep china dish, cover it and set
+it away.
+
+It is best not to prepare the dressing till just before the salad
+is to be eaten, that it may be as fresh as possible. Have ready
+the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs. Put them into a flat dish,
+and mash them to a paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Add to
+the egg a small tea-spoonful of fine salt, the same quantity of
+cayenne pepper, half a jill of made mustard, a jill or a wine-glass
+and a half of vinegar, and rather more than two wine-glasses
+of sweet oil. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly; stirring them
+a long time till they are quite smooth.
+
+The dressing should not be put on till a few minutes before the
+salad is sent in; as by lying in it the chicken and celery will
+become tough and hard. After you pour it on, mix the whole well
+together with a silver fork.
+
+Chicken salad should be accompanied with plates of bread and
+butter, and a plate of crackers. It is a supper dish, and is
+brought in with terrapin, oysters, &c.
+
+Cold turkey is excellent prepared as above.
+
+An inferior salad may be made with cold fillet of veal, instead of
+chickens.
+
+Cold boiled lobster is very fine cut up and drest in this manner,
+only substituting for celery, lettuce cut up and mixed with the
+lobster.
+
+
+TO ROAST A PAIR OF DUCKS.
+
+After the ducks are drawn, wipe out the inside with a clean cloth,
+and prepare your stuffing. Mince very fine some green sage leaves,
+and twice their quantity of onion, (which should first be
+parboiled,) and add a little butter, and a seasoning of pepper and
+salt. Mix the whole very well, and fill the crops and bodies of
+the ducks with it, leaving a little space for the stuffing to
+swell. Reserve the livers, gizzards, and hearts to put in the
+gravy. Tie the bodies of the ducks firmly round with strings,
+(which should be wetted or buttered to keep them from burning,)
+and put them on the spit before a clear brisk fire. Baste them
+first with a little salt and water, and then with their own gravy,
+dredging them lightly with flour at the last. They will be done in
+about an hour. After boiling the livers, gizzards and hearts, chop
+them, and put them into the gravy; having first skimmed it, and
+thickened it with a little browned flour.
+
+Send to table with the ducks a small tureen of onion-sauce with
+chopped sage leaves in it. Accompany them also with stewed
+cranberries and green peas.
+
+Canvas-back ducks are roasted in the same manner, omitting the
+stuffing. They will generally be done enough in three quarters of
+an hour. Send currant jelly to table with them, and have heaters
+to place under the plates. Add to the gravy a little cayenne, and
+a large wine-glass of claret or port.
+
+Other wild ducks and teal may be roasted in about half an hour.
+Before cooking soak them all night in salt and water, to draw out
+whatever fishy or sedgy taste they may happen to have, and which
+may otherwise render them uneatable. Then early in the morning put
+them in fresh water (without salt,) changing it several times
+before you spit them.
+
+You may serve up with wild ducks, &c. orange-sauce, which is made
+by boiling in a little water two large sweet oranges cut into
+slices, having first removed the rind. When the pulp is all
+dissolved, strain and press it through a sieve, and add to it the
+juice of two more oranges, and a little sugar. Send it to table
+either warm or cold.
+
+
+STEWED DUCK.
+
+Half roast a large duck. Cut it up, and put it into a stew-pan
+with a pint of beef-gravy, or dripping of roast-beef. Have ready
+two boiled onions, half a handful of sage leaves, and two leaves
+of mint, all chopped very fine and seasoned with pepper and salt.
+Lay these ingredients over the duck. Stew it slowly for a quarter
+of an hour. Then put in a quart of young green peas. Cover it
+closely, and simmer it half an hour longer, till the peas are
+quite soft. Then add a piece of butter rolled in flour; quicken
+the fire, and give it one boil. Serve up all together.
+
+A cold duck that has been under-done may be stewed in this manner.
+
+
+TO HASH A DUCK.
+
+Cut up the duck and season it with pepper and mixed spices. Have
+ready some thin slices of cold ham or bacon. Place a layer of them
+in a stew-pan; then put in the duck and cover it with ham. Add
+just water enough to moisten it, and pour over all a large glass
+of red wine. Cover the pan closely and let it stew for an hour.
+
+Have ready a quart or more of green peas, boiled tender drained,
+and mixed with butter and pepper. Lay them round the hashed duck.
+
+If you hash a cold duck in this manner, a quarter of an hour will
+be sufficient for stewing it; it having been cooked already.
+
+
+TO ROAST A GOOSE.
+
+Having drawn and singed the goose, wipe out the inside with a
+cloth, and sprinkle in some pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of
+four good sized onions minced fine, and half their quantity of
+green sage leaves minced also, a large tea-cupful of grated bread-crumbs,
+a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and the beaten
+yolks of two eggs, with a little pepper and salt. Mix the whole
+together, and incorporate them well. Put the stuffing into the
+goose, and press it in hard; but do not entirely fill up the
+cavity, as the mixture will swell in cooking. Tie the goose
+securely round with a greased or wetted string; and paper the
+breast to prevent it from scorching. Fasten the goose on the spit
+at both ends. The fire must be brisk and well kept up. It will
+require from two hours to two and a half to roast. Baste it at
+first with a little salt and water, and then with its own gravy.
+Take off the paper when the goose is about half done, and dredge
+it with a little flour towards the last. Having parboiled the
+liver and heart, chop them and put them into the gravy, which must
+be skimmed well and thickened with a little browned flour.
+
+Send apple-sauce to table with the goose; also mashed potatoes.
+
+A goose may be stuffed entirely with potatoes, boiled and mashed
+with milk, butter, pepper and salt.
+
+You may make a gravy of the giblets, that is the neck, pinions,
+liver, heart and gizzard, stewed in a little water, thickened with
+butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Add a
+glass of red wine. Before you send it to table, take out all but
+the liver and heart; mince them and leave them in the gravy. This
+gravy is by many preferred to that which comes from the goose in
+roasting. It is well to have both.
+
+If a goose is old it is useless to cook it, as when hard and tough
+it cannot be eaten.
+
+
+A GOOSE PIE.
+
+Cut a fine large young goose into eight pieces, and season it with
+pepper. Reserve the giblets for gravy. Take a smoked tongue that
+has been all night in soak, parboil it, peel it, and cut it into
+thick slices, omitting the root, which you must divide into small
+pieces, and put into a sauce-pan with the giblets and sufficient
+water to stew them slowly.
+
+Make a nice paste, allowing a pound and a half of butter to three
+pounds of flour. Roll it out thick, and line with it the bottom
+and sides of a deep dish. Fill it with the pieces of goose, and
+the slices of tongue. Skim the gravy you have drawn from the
+giblets, thicken it with a little browned flour, and pour it into
+the pie dish. Then put on the lid or upper crust. Notch and
+ornament it handsomely with leaves and flowers of paste. Bake the
+pie about three hours in a brisk oven.
+
+In making a large goose pie you may add a fowl, or a pair of
+pigeons, or partridges,--all cut up.
+
+A duck pie may be made in the same manner.
+
+Small pies are sometimes made of goose giblets only.
+
+
+A CHRISTMAS GOOSE PIE.
+
+These pies are always made with a standing crust. Put into a
+sauce-pan one pound of butter cut up, and a pint and a half of
+water; stir it while it is melting, and let it come to a boil.
+Then skim off whatever milk or impurity may rise to the top. Have
+ready four pounds of flour sifted into a pan. Make a hole in the
+middle of it, and pour in the melted butter while hot. Mix it with
+a spoon to a stiff paste, (adding the beaten yolks of three or
+four eggs,) and then knead it very well with your hands, on the
+paste-board, keeping it dredged with flour till it ceases to be
+sticky. Then set it away to cool.
+
+Split a large goose, and a fowl down the back, loosen the flesh
+all over with a sharp knife, and take out all the bones. Parboil a
+smoked tongue; peel it and cut off the root. Mix together a
+powdered nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace, a tea-spoonful
+of pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt, and season with
+them the fowl and the goose.
+
+Roll out the paste near an inch thick, and divide it into three
+pieces. Cut out two of them of an oval form for the top and
+bottom; and the other into a long straight piece for the sides or
+walls of the pie. Brush the paste all over with beaten white of
+egg, and set on the bottom the piece that is to form the wall,
+pinching the edges together, and cementing them with white of egg.
+The bottom piece must be large enough to turn up a little round
+the lower edge of the wall piece, to which it must be firmly
+joined all round. When you have the crust properly fixed, so as to
+be baked standing alone without a dish, put in first the goose,
+then the fowl, and then the tongue. Fill up what space is left
+with pieces of the flesh of pigeons, or of partridges, quails, or
+any game that is convenient. There must be no bones in the pie.
+You may add also some bits of ham, or some force-meat balls.
+Lastly, cover the other ingredients with half a pound of butter,
+and pat on the top crust, which, of course, must be also of an
+oval form to correspond with the bottom. The lid must be placed
+not quite on the top edge of the wall, but an inch and a half
+below it. Close it very well, and ornament the sides and top with
+festoons and leaves cut out of paste. Notch the edges handsomely,
+and put a paste flower in the centre. Glaze the whole with beaten
+yolk of egg, and bind the pie all round with a double fold of
+white paper. Set it in a regular oven, and bake it four hours.
+
+This is one way of making the celebrated goose pies that it is
+customary in England to send as presents at Christmas. They are
+eaten at luncheon, and if the weather is cold, and they are kept
+carefully covered up from the air, they will be good for two or
+three weeks; the standing crust assisting to preserve them.
+
+
+TO ROAST A TURKEY.
+
+Make a force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, minced suet, sweet
+marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk
+of egg. You may add some grated cold ham. Light some writing
+paper, and singe the hairs from the skin of the turkey. Reserve
+the neck, liver, and gizzard for the gravy. Stuff the craw of the
+turkey with the force-meat, of which there should be enough made
+to form into balls for frying, laying them round the turkey when
+it is dished. Dredge it with flour, and roast it before a clear
+brisk fire, basting it with cold lard. Towards the last, set the
+turkey nearer to the fire, dredge it again very lightly with
+flour, and baste it with butter. It will require, according to its
+size, from two to three hours roasting.
+
+Make the gravy of the giblets cut in pieces, seasoned, and stewed
+for two hours in a very little water; thicken it with a spoonful
+of browned flour, and stir into it the gravy from the dripping-pan,
+having first skimmed off the fat.
+
+A turkey should be accompanied by ham or tongue. Serve up with it
+mushroom-sauce. Have stewed cranberries on the table to eat with
+it. Do not help any one to the legs, or drum-sticks as they are
+called.
+
+Turkeys are sometimes stuffed entirely with sausage-meat. Small
+cakes of this meat should then be fried, and laid round it.
+
+To bone a turkey, you must begin with a very sharp knife at the
+top of the wings, and scrape the flesh loose from the bone without
+dividing or cutting it to pieces. If done carefully and
+dexterously, the whole mass of flesh may be separated from the
+bone, so that you can take hold of the head and draw out the
+entire skeleton at once. A large quantity of force-meat having
+been prepared, stuff it hard into the turkey, restoring it by
+doing so to its natural form, filling out the body, breast, wings
+and legs, so as to resemble their original shape when the bones
+were in. Roast or bake it; pouring a glass of port wine into the
+gravy. A boned turkey is frequently served up cold, covered with
+lumps of currant jelly; slices of which are laid round the dish.
+
+Any sort of poultry or game may be boned and stuffed in the same
+manner,
+
+A cold turkey that has not been boned is sometimes sent to table
+larded all over the breast with slips of fat bacon, drawn through
+the flesh with a larding needle, and arranged in regular form.
+
+
+TO BOIL A TURKEY.
+
+Take twenty-five large fine oysters, and chop them. Mix with them
+half a pint of grated bread-crumbs, half a handful of chopped
+parsley, a quarter of a pound of butter, two table-spoonfuls, of
+cream or rich milk, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. When it is
+thoroughly mixed, stuff the craw of the turkey with it, and sew up
+the skin. Then dredge it with flour, put it into a large pot or
+kettle, and cover it well with cold water. Place it over the fire,
+and let it boil slowly for half an hour, taking off the scum as it
+rises. Then remove the pot from over the fire, and set it on hot
+coals to stew slowly for two hours, or two hours and a half,
+according to its size, Just before you send it to table, place it
+again over the fire to get well heated. When you boil a turkey,
+skewer the liver and gizzard to the sides, under the wings.
+
+Send it to table with oyster-sauce in a small tureen.
+
+In making the stuffing, you may substitute for the grated bread,
+chestnuts boiled, peeled, and minced or mashed. Serve up chestnut-sauce,
+made by peeling some boiled chestnuts and putting them
+whole into melted butter,
+
+Some persons, to make them white, boil their turkeys tied up in a
+large cloth sprinkled with flour.
+
+With a turkey, there should be on the table a ham, or a smoked
+tongue.
+
+
+TO ROAST PIGEONS.
+
+Draw and pick four pigeons immediately after they are killed, and
+let them be cooked soon, as they do not keep well. Wash the inside
+very clean, and wipe it dry. Stuff them with a mixture of parsley
+parboiled and chopped, grated bread-crumbs, and butter; seasoned
+with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Dredge them with flour, and roast
+them before a good fire, basting them with butter. They will be
+done in about twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve them up with
+parsley-sauce. Lay the pigeons on the dish in a row.
+
+If asparagus is in season, it will be much better than parsley
+both for the stuffing and sauce. It must first be boiled. Chop the
+green heads for the stuffing, and cut them in two for the melted
+butter. Have cranberry-sauce on the table.
+
+Pigeons may be split and broiled, like chickens; also stewed or
+fricasseed.
+
+They are very good stewed with slices of cold ham and green peas,
+serving up all in the same dish.
+
+
+PIGEON PIE.
+
+Take four pigeons, and pick and clean them very nicely, Season
+them with pepper and salt, and put inside of every one a large
+piece of butter and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Have ready a
+good paste, allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of sifted
+flour. Roll it out rather thick, and line with it the bottom and
+sides of a large deep dish. Put in the pigeons, and lay on the top
+some bits of butter rolled in flour. Pour in nearly enough of
+water to fill the dish. Cover the pie with a lid of paste rolled
+out thick, and nicely notched, and ornamented with paste leaves
+and flowers.
+
+You may make a similar pie of pheasants, partridges, or grouse.
+
+
+TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAILS, OR GROUSE.
+
+Pick and draw the birds immediately after they are brought in.
+Before you roast them, fill the inside with pieces of a fine ripe
+orange, leaving out the rind and seeds. Or stuff them with grated
+cold ham, mixed with bread-crumbs, butter, and a little yolk of
+egg. Lard them with small slips of the fat of bacon drawn through
+the flesh with a larding needle, Roast them before a clear fire.
+
+Make a fine rich gravy of the trimmings of meat or poultry, stewed
+in a little water, and thickened with a spoonful of browned flour.
+Strain it, and set it on the fire again, having added half a pint
+of claret, and the juice of two large oranges. Simmer it for a few
+minutes, pour some of it into the dish with the game, and serve
+the remainder in a boat.
+
+If you stuff them with force-meat, you may, instead of larding,
+brush them all over with beaten yolk of egg, and then cover them,
+with bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, &c.
+
+Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the hard part; mix them with
+salt, and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the
+other ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon,
+and cover the birds with them; then wrap them closely in sheets of
+white paper well buttered, put them on the spit, and roast them
+before a clear fire.
+
+Send them to table with oyster-sauce in a boat.
+
+Pies may be made of any of these birds in the same manner as a
+pigeon pie.
+
+
+TO ROAST SNIPES, WOODCOCKS, OR PLOVERS.
+
+Pick them immediately; but it is the fashion to cook these birds
+without drawing. Cut some slices of bread, allowing a slice to
+each bird, and (having pared off the crust) toast them nicely, and
+lay them in the bottom of the dripping-pan to catch the trail, as
+it is called. Dredge the birds with flour, and put them on a small
+spit before a clear brisk fire. Baste them with lard, or fresh
+butter. They will be done in twenty or thirty minutes. Serve them
+up laid on the toast, and garnished with sliced orange, or with
+orange jelly.
+
+Have brown gravy in a boat.
+
+
+TO ROAST REED-BIRDS, OR ORTOLANS.
+
+Put into every bird, an oyster, or a little butter mixed with some
+finely sifted bread-crumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small
+skewer through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with
+lard or with fresh butter. They will be done in about ten minutes.
+
+A very nice way of cooking these birds is, (having greased them
+all over with lard or with fresh butter, and wrapped them in vine
+leaves secured closely with a string,) to lay them in a heated
+iron pan, and bury them in ashes hot enough to roast or bake them.
+Remove the vine leaves before you send the birds to table.
+
+Reed birds are very fine made into little dumplings with a thin
+crust of flour and butter, and boiled about twenty minutes. Each
+must be tied in a separate cloth.
+
+
+LARDING.
+
+To lard meat or poultry is to introduce into the surface of the
+flesh, slips of the fat only of bacon, by means of a larding-pin
+or larding-needle, it being called by both names. It is a steel
+instrument about a foot long, sharp at one end, and cleft at the
+other into four divisions, which are near two inches in length,
+and resemble tweezers. It can be obtained at the hardware stores.
+
+Cut the bacon into slips about two inches in length, half an inch
+in breadth, and half an inch in thickness. If intended for
+poultry, the slips of bacon should not be thicker than a straw.
+Put them, one at a time, into the cleft or split end of the
+larding-needle. Give each slip a slight twist, and press it down
+hard into the needle with your fingers. Then push the needle
+through the flesh, (avoiding the places where the bones are,) and
+when you draw it out it will have left behind it the slip of bacon
+sticking in the surface. Take care to have all the slips of the
+same size, and arranged in regular rows at equal distances. Every
+slip should stand up about an inch. If any are wrong, take them
+out and do them over again. To lard handsomely and neatly requires
+practice and dexterity.
+
+Fowls and game are generally larded on the breast only. If cold,
+they can be done with the fat of cold boiled ham. Larding may be
+made to look very tastefully on any thing that is not to be cooked
+afterwards.
+
+
+FORCE-MEAT BALLS.
+
+To a pound of the lean of a leg of veal, allow a pound of beef
+suet. Mince them together very fine. Then season it to your taste
+with pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and chopped sage or sweet
+marjoram. Then chop a half-pint of oysters, and beat six eggs very
+well. Mix the whole together, and pound it to a paste in a marble
+mortar. If you do not want it immediately, put it away in a stone
+pot, strew a little flour on the top, and cover it closely.
+
+When you wish to use the force-meat, divide into equal parts as
+much of it as you want; and having floured your hands, roll it
+into round balls, all of the same size. Either fry them in butter,
+or boil them.
+
+This force-meat will be found a very good stuffing for meat or
+poultry.
+
+
+
+
+GRAVY AND SAUCES.
+
+
+DRAWN OR MADE GRAVY.
+
+For this purpose you may use coarse pieces of the lean of beef or
+veal, or the giblets and trimmings of poultry or game. If must be
+stewed for a long time, skimmed, strained, thickened, and
+flavoured with whatever condiments are supposed most suited to the
+dish it is to accompany.
+
+In preparing meat to stew for gravy, beat it with a mallet or
+meat-beetle, score it, and cut it into small pieces; this makes it
+give oat the juices. Season it with pepper and salt, and put it
+into a stew-pan with butter only. Heat it gradually, till it
+becomes brown. Shake the pan frequently, and see that it does not
+bum or stick to the bottom. It will generally be browned
+sufficiently in half an hour. Then put in some boiling water,
+allowing one pint to each pound of meat. Simmer it on coals by the
+side of the fire for near three hours, skimming it well, and
+keeping it closely covered. When done, remove it from the heat,
+let it stand awhile to settle, and then strain it.
+
+If you wish to keep it two or three days, (which you may in
+winter,) put it into a stone vessel, cover it closely, and set it
+in a cool place.
+
+Do not thicken this gravy till you go to use it.
+
+
+MELTED BUTTER, SOMETIMES CALLED DRAWN BUTTER.
+
+Melted butter is the foundation of most of the common sauces. Have
+a covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One lined with porcelain
+will be best. Take a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter,
+cut it up, and mix with it about two tea-spoonfuls of flour. When
+it is thoroughly mixed, put it into the sauce-pan, and add to it
+four table-spoonfuls of cold water. Cover the sauce-pan, and set
+it in a large tin pan of boiling water. Shake it round continually
+(always moving it the same way) till it is entirely melted and
+begins to simmer. Then let it rest till it boils up.
+
+If you set it on hot coals, or over the fire, it will be oily.
+
+If the butter and flour is not well mixed it will be lumpy.
+
+If you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. All these
+defects are to be carefully avoided.
+
+In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use milk
+instead of water.
+
+
+TO BROWN FLOUR.
+
+Spread some fine flour on a plate, and set it in
+the oven, turning it up and stirring it frequently that it may
+brown equally all through.
+
+Put it into a jar, cover it well, and keep it to stir into gravies
+to thicken and colour them.
+
+
+TO BROWN BUTTER.
+
+Put a lump of butter into a frying-pan, and toss
+it round over the fire till it becomes brown. Then dredge some
+browned flour over it, and stir it round with a spoon till it
+boils. It must be made quite smooth. You may make this into a
+plain sauce for fish by adding cayenne and some flavoured vinegar.
+
+
+
+PLAIN SAUCES.
+
+LOBSTER SAUCE.
+
+Boil a dozen blades of mace and half a dozen pepper-corns in about
+a jill and a half (or three wine-glasses) of water, till all the
+strength of the spice is extracted. Then strain it, and having cut
+three quarters of a pound of butter into little bits, melt it in
+this water, dredging in a little flour as you hold it over the
+fire to boil. Toss it round, and let it just boil up and no more.
+
+Take a cold boiled lobster,--pound the coral in a mortar adding a
+little sweet oil. Then stir it into the melted butter.
+
+Chop the meat of the body into very small pieces, and rub it
+through a cullender into the butter. Cut up the flesh of the claws
+and tail into dice, and stir it in. Give it another boil up, and
+it will be ready for table.
+
+Serve it up with fresh salmon, or any boiled fish of the best
+kind.
+
+Crab sauce is made in a similar manner; also prawn and shrimp
+sauce.
+
+
+ANCHOVY SAUCE.
+
+Soak eight anchovies for three or four hours, changing the water
+every hour. Then put them into a sauce-pan with a quart of cold
+water. Set them on hot coals and simmer them till they are
+entirely dissolved, and till the liquid is diminished two-thirds.
+Then strain it, stir two glasses of red wine, and add to it about
+half a pint of melted butter.
+
+Heat it over again, and send it to table with salmon or fresh cod.
+
+
+CELERY SAUCE.
+
+Take a large bunch of young celery. Wash and pare it very clean.
+Cut it into pieces, and boil it gently in a small quantity of
+water, till it is quite tender. Then add a little powdered mace
+and nutmeg, and a very little pepper and salt. Take a tolerably
+large piece of butter, roll it well in flour, and stir it into the
+sauce. Boil it up again, and it is ready to send to table.
+
+You may make it with cream, thus:--Prepare and boil your celery as
+above, adding some mace, nutmeg, a piece of butter the size of a
+walnut, rolled in flour; and half a pint of cream. Boil all
+together.
+
+Celery sauce is eaten with boiled poultry.
+
+When celery is out of season, you may use celery seed, boiled in
+the water which you afterwards use for the melted butter, but
+strained out after boiling.
+
+
+NASTURTIAN SAUCE.
+
+This is by many considered superior to caper sauce and is eaten
+with boiled mutton. It is made with the green seeds of
+nasturtians, pickled simply in cold vinegar.
+
+Cut about six ounces of butter into small hits, and put them into
+a small sauce-pan. Mix with a wine-glass of water sufficient flour
+to make a thick batter, pour it on the butter, and hold the sauce-pan
+over hot coals, shaking it quickly round, till the butter is
+melted. Let it just boil up, and then take it from the fire.
+Thicken it with the pickled nasturtians and send it to table in a
+boat.
+
+Never pour melted butter over any thing, but always send it to
+table in a sauce-tureen or boat.
+
+
+WHITE ONION SAUCE.
+
+Peel a dozen onions, and throw them into salt and water to keep
+them white. Then boil them tender. When done, squeeze the water
+from them, and chop them. Have ready some butter that has been
+melted rich and smooth with milk or cream instead of water. Put
+the onions into the melted butter, and boil them up at once. If
+you wish to have them very mild, put in a turnip with them at the
+first boiling.
+
+Young white onions, if very small, need not be chopped, but may be
+put whole into the butter.
+
+Use this sauce for rabbits, tripe, boiled poultry, or any boiled
+fresh meat.
+
+
+BROWN ONION SAUCE.
+
+Slice some large mild Spanish onions. Cover them with butter, and
+set them over a slow fire to brown. Then add salt and cayenne
+pepper to your taste, and some good brown gravy of roast meat,
+poultry or game, thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour
+that has first been browned by holding it in a hot pan or shovel
+over the fire. Give it a boil, skim it well, and just before you
+take it off, stir in a half glass of port or claret, and the same
+quantity of mushroom catchup.
+
+Use this sauce for roasted poultry, game, or meat.
+
+
+MUSHROOM SAUCE.
+
+Wash a pint of small button mushrooms,--remove the stems and the
+outside skin. Stew them slowly in veal gravy or in milk or cream,
+seasoning them with pepper and salt, and adding a piece of butter
+rolled in a large proportion of flour. Stew them till quite
+tender, now and then taking off the cover of the pan to stir them.
+
+The flavour will be heightened by having salted a few the night
+before in a covered dish, to extract the juice, and then stirring
+it into the sauce while stewing.
+
+This sauce may be served up with poultry, game, or beef-steaks.
+
+In gathering mushrooms take only those that are of a dull pearl
+colour on the outside, and that have the under part tinged with
+pale pink.
+
+Boil an onion with them. If there is a poisonous one among them,
+the onion will turn black. Then throw away the whole.
+
+
+EGG SAUCE.
+
+Boil four eggs a quarter of an hour. Dip them into cold water to
+prevent their looking blue. Peel off the shell. Chop the yolks of
+all, and the whites of two, and stir them into melted butter.
+Serve this sauce with boiled poultry or fish.
+
+
+BREAD SAUCE.
+
+Put some grated crumbs of stale bread into a sauce-pan, and pour
+over them some of the liquor in which poultry or fresh meat has
+been boiled. Add some plums or dried currants that have been
+picked and washed. Having simmered them till the bread is quite
+soft, and the currants well plumped, add melted butter or cream.
+
+This sauce is for a roast pig.
+
+
+MINT SAUCE.
+
+Take a large bunch of young green mint; if old the taste will be
+unpleasant. Wash it very clean. Pick all the leaves from the
+stalks. Chop the leaves very fine, and mix them with cold vinegar,
+and a large proportion of powdered sugar. There must be merely
+sufficient vinegar to moisten the mint well, but by no means
+enough to make the sauce liquid.
+
+It is only eaten in the spring with roast lamb. Send it to table
+in a sauce-tureen.
+
+
+CAPER SAUCE.
+
+Take two large table-spoonfuls of capers and a little vinegar.
+Stir them for some time into half a pint of thick melted butter.
+
+This sauce is for boiled mutton.
+
+If you happen to have no capers, pickled cucumber chopped fine, or
+the pickled pods of radish seeds, may be stirred into the butter
+as a tolerable substitute.
+
+
+PARSLEY SAUCE.
+
+Wash a bunch of parsley in cold water. Then boil it about six or
+seven minutes in salt and water. Drain it, cut the leaves from the
+stalks, and chop them fine. Hare ready some melted butter, and
+stir in the parsley. Allow two small table-spoonfuls of leaves to
+half a pint of butter.
+
+Serve it up with boiled fowls, rock-fish, sea-bass, and other
+boiled fresh fish.. Also with knuckle of veal, and with calf's
+head boiled plain.
+
+
+APPLE SAUCE.
+
+Pare, core, and slice some fine apples. Put them into a sauce-pan
+with just sufficient water to keep them from burning, and some
+grated lemon-peel. Stew them till quite soft and tender. Then mash
+them to a paste, and make them very sweet with brown sugar, adding
+a small piece of butter and some nutmeg.
+
+Apple sauce is eaten with roast pork, roast goose and roast ducks.
+
+Be careful not to have it thin and watery.
+
+
+CRANBERRY SAUCE.
+
+Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with
+about a wine-glass of water. Stew them slowly, and stir them
+frequently, particularly after they begin to burst. They require a
+great deal of stewing, and should be like a marmalade when done.
+Just before you take them from the fire, stir in a pound of brown
+sugar.
+
+When they are thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set
+them away to get cold.
+
+You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould,
+and when it is in a firm shape send it to table on a glass dish.
+Taste it when it is cold, and if not sweet enough, add more sugar.
+Cranberries require more sugar than any other fruit, except plums.
+
+Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast turkey, roast fowls, and roast
+ducks.
+
+
+PEACH SAUCE.
+
+Take a quart of dried peaches, (those are richest and best that
+are dried with the skins on,) and soak them in cold water till
+they are tender. Then drain them, and put them into a covered pan
+with a very little water. Set them on coals, and simmer them till
+they are entirely dissolved. Then mash them with brown sugar, and
+send them to table cold to eat with roast meat, game or poultry.
+
+
+WINE SAUCE.
+
+Have ready some rich thick melted or drawn butter, and the moment
+you take it from the fire, stir in two large glasses of white
+wine, two table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, and a powdered
+nutmeg. Serve it up with plum pudding, or any sort of boiled
+pudding that is made of a batter.
+
+
+COLD SWEET SAUCE.
+
+Stir together, as for a pound-cake, equal quantities of fresh
+butter and powdered white sugar. When quite light and creamy, add
+some powdered cinnamon or nutmeg, and a few drops of essence of
+lemon. Send it to table in a small deep plate with a tea-spoon in
+it.
+
+Eat it with batter pudding, bread pudding, Indian pudding, &c.
+whether baked or boiled. Also with boiled apple pudding or
+dumplings, and with fritters and pancakes.
+
+
+CREAM SAUCE.
+
+Boil a pint and a half of rich cream with four table-spoonfuls of
+powdered sugar, some pieces of cinnamon, and a dozen bitter
+almonds or peach kernels slightly broken up, or a dozen fresh
+peach leaves. As soon as it has boiled up, take it off the fire
+and strain it. If it is to be eaten with boiled pudding or with
+dumplings send it to table hot, but let it get quite cold if you
+intend it as an accompaniment to fruit pies or tarts.
+
+
+OYSTER SAUCE.
+
+Take a pint of oysters, and save out a little of their liquid. Put
+them with their remaining liquor, and some mace and nutmegs, into
+a covered sauce-pan, and simmer them on hot coals about eight
+minutes. Then drain them.
+
+Having prepared in another sauce-pan some drawn or melted butter,
+(mixed with oyster liquor instead of water,) pour it into a sauce-boat,
+add the oysters to it, and serve it up with boiled poultry
+or with boiled fresh fish.
+
+
+
+
+STORE FISH SAUCES.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Store fish sauces if properly made will keep for many months. They
+may be brought to table in fish castors, but a customary mode is
+to send them round in the small black bottles in which they have
+been originally deposited. They are in great variety, and may be
+purchased of the grocers that sell oil, pickles, anchovies, &c. In
+making them at home, the few following receipts may be found
+useful.
+
+The usual way of eating these sauces is to pour a little on your
+plate, and mix it with the melted butter. They give flavour to
+fish that would otherwise be insipid, and are in general use at
+genteel tables.
+
+Two table-spoonfuls of any of these sauces may be added to the
+melted butter a minute before you take it from the fire. But if
+brought to table in bottles, the company can use it or omit it as
+they please.
+
+
+SCOTCH SAUCE.
+
+Take fifteen anchovies, chop them fine, and steep them in vinegar
+for a week, keeping the vessel closely covered. Then put them into
+a pint of claret or port wine. Scrape fine a large stick of
+horseradish, and chop two onions, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful
+of the leaves of lemon-thyme, and two large peach leaves.
+Add a nutmeg, six or eight blades of mace, nine cloves, and a tea-spoonful
+of black pepper, all slightly pounded in a mortar. Put
+all these ingredients into a silver or block tin sauce-pan, or
+into an earthen pipkin, and add a few grains of cochineal to
+colour it. Pour in a large half pint of the best vinegar, and
+simmer it slowly till the bones of the anchovies are entirely
+dissolved.
+
+Strain the liquor through a sieve, and when quite cold put it away
+for use in small bottles; the corks dipped in melted rosin, and
+well-secured by pieces of leather tied closely over them. Fill
+each bottle quite full, as it will keep the better for leaving no
+vacancy.
+
+This sauce will give a fine flavour to melted butter.
+
+
+QUIN'S SAUCE.
+
+Pound in a mortar six large anchovies, moistening them with their
+own pickle. Then chop and pound six small onions. Mix them with a
+little black pepper and a little cayenne, half a glass of soy,
+four glasses of mushroom catchup, two glasses of claret, and two
+of black walnut pickle. Put the mixture into a small sauce-pan or
+earthen pipkin, and let it simmer slowly till all the bones of the
+anchovies are dissolved. Strain it, and when cold, bottle it for
+use; dipping the cork in melted rosin, and tying leather over it.
+Fill the bottles quite full.
+
+
+KITCHINER'S FISH SAUCE.
+
+Mix together a pint of claret, a pint of mushroom catchup, and
+half a pint of walnut pickle, four ounces of pounded anchovy, an
+ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared thin, and the same quantity of
+shalot or small onion. Also an ounce of scraped horseradish, half
+an ounce of black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice mixed, and
+the same quantity of cayenne and celery-seed. Infuse these
+ingredients in a wide-mouthed bottle (closely stopped) for a
+fortnight, shaking the mixture every day. Then strain and bottle
+it for use. Put it up in small bottles, filling them quite full.
+
+
+HARVEY'S SAUCE.
+
+Dissolve six anchovies in a pint of strong vinegar, and then add
+to them three table-spoonfuls of India soy, and three table-spoonfuls
+of mushroom catchup, two heads of garlic bruised small,
+and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne. Add sufficient cochineal
+powder to colour the mixture red. Let all these ingredients infuse
+in the vinegar for a fortnight, shaking it every day, and then
+strain and bottle it for use. Let the bottles be small, and cover
+the corks with leather.
+
+
+GENERAL SAUCE.
+
+Chop six shalots or small onions, a clove of garlic, two peach
+leaves, a few sprigs of lemon-thyme and of sweet basil, and a few
+bits of fresh orange-peel. Bruise in a mortar a quarter of an
+ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce
+of long pepper. Mix two ounces of salt, a jill of vinegar, the
+juice of two lemons, and a pint of Madeira. Put the whole of these
+ingredients together in a stone jar, very closely covered. Let it
+stand all night over embers by the side of the fire. In the
+morning pour off the liquid quickly and carefully from the lees or
+settlings, strain it and put it into small bottles, dipping the
+corks in melted rosin.
+
+This sauce is intended to flavour melted butter or gravy, for
+every sort of fish and meat.
+
+
+PINK SAUCE.
+
+Mix together half a pint of port wine, half a pint of strong
+vinegar, the juice and grated peel of two large lemons, a quarter
+of an ounce of cayenne, a dozen blades of mace, and a quarter of
+an ounce of powdered cochineal. Let it infuse a fortnight,
+stirring it several times a day. Then boil it ten minutes, strain
+it, and bottle it for use.
+
+Eat it with any sort of fish or game. It will give a fine pink
+tinge to melted butter.
+
+
+
+
+CATCHUPS.
+
+
+LOBSTER CATCHUP.
+
+This catchup, warmed in melted butter, is an excellent substitute
+for fresh lobster sauce at seasons when the fish cannot he
+procured, as, if properly made, it will keep a year.
+
+Take a fine lobster that weighs about three pounds. Put it into
+boiling water, and cook it thoroughly. When it is cold break it
+up, and extract all the flesh from the shell. Pound the red part
+or coral in a marble mortar, and when it is well bruised, add the
+white meat by degrees, and pound that also; seasoning it with a
+tea-spoonful of cayenne, and moistening it gradually with sherry
+wine. When it is beaten to a smooth paste, mix it well with the
+remainder of the bottle of sherry. Put it into wide-mouthed
+bottles, and on the top of each lay a dessert-spoonful of whole
+pepper. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and secure them well by
+tying leather over them.
+
+In using this catchup allow four table-spoonfuls to a common-sized
+sauce-boat of melted butter. Put in the catchup at the last, and
+hold it over the fire just long enough to be thoroughly heated.
+
+
+ANCHOVY CATCHUP.
+
+Bone two dozen anchovies, and then chop them. Put to them ten
+shalots, or very small onions, cut fine, and a handful of scraped
+horseradish, with a quarter of an ounce of mace. Add a lemon, cut
+into slices, twelve cloves, and twelve pepper-corns. Then mix
+together a pint of red wine, a quart of white wine, a pint of
+water and half a pint of anchovy liquor. Put the other ingredients
+into the liquid, and boil it slowly till reduced to a quart. Then
+strain it, and when cold put it into small bottles, securing the
+corks with leather.
+
+
+OYSTER CATCHUP.
+
+Take large salt oysters that have just been opened. Wash them in
+their own liquor, and pound them, in a mortar, omitting the hard
+parts. To every pint of the pounded oysters, add a half pint of
+white wine or vinegar, in which you must give them a boil up,
+removing the scum as it rises. Then to each quart of the boiled
+oysters allow a tea-spoonful of beaten white pepper, a salt-spoonful
+of pounded mace, and cayenne and salt to your taste. Let
+it boil up for a few minutes, and then pass it through a sieve
+into an earthen pan. When cold, put it into small bottles, filling
+them quite full, as it will not keep so well if there is a vacancy
+at the top. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and tie leather over
+each.
+
+
+WALNUT CATCHUP.
+
+Take green walnuts that are young enough to be easily pierced
+through with a large needle. Having pricked them all in several
+places, throw them into an earthen pan with a large handful of
+salt, and barely sufficient water to cover them. Break up and mash
+them with a potato-beetle, or a rolling-pin. Keep them four days
+in the salt and water, stirring and mashing them every day. The
+rinds will now be quite soft. Then scald them with boiling-hot
+salt and water, and raising the pan on the edge, let the walnut
+liquor flow away from the shells into another pan. Put the shells
+into a mortar, and pound them with vinegar, which will extract
+from them all the remaining juice.
+
+Put all the walnut liquor together, and boil and skim it, then to
+every quart allow an ounce of bruised ginger, an ounce of black
+pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of nutmeg, all
+slightly beaten. Boil the spice and walnut liquor in a closely
+covered vessel for three quarters of an hour. When cold, bottle it
+for use, putting equal proportions of the spice into each bottle.
+Secure the corks with leather.
+
+
+MUSHROOM CATCHUP.
+
+Take mushrooms that have been freshly gathered, and examine them
+carefully to ascertain that they are of the right sort. Pick them
+nicely, and wipe them clean, but do not wash them. Spread a layer
+of them at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and then sprinkle
+them well with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and another
+layer of salt, and so on alternately. Throw a folded cloth over
+the jar, and set it by the fire or in a very cool oven. Let it
+remain thus for twenty-four hours, and then mash them well with
+your hands. Next squeeze and strain them through a bag.
+
+To every quart of strained liquor add an ounce and a half of whole
+black pepper, and boil it slowly in a covered vessel for half an
+hour. Then add a quarter of an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of
+sliced ginger, a few cloves, and three or four blades of mace.
+Boil it with the spice fifteen minutes longer. When it is done,
+take it off, and let it stand awhile to settle. Pour it carefully
+off from the sediment and put it into small bottles, filling them
+to the top. Secure them well with corks dipped in melted rosin,
+and leather caps tied over them.
+
+The longer catchup is boiled, the better it will keep. You may add
+cayenne and nutmeg to the spices.
+
+The bottles should be quite small, as it soon spoils after being
+opened.
+
+
+TOMATA CATCHUP.
+
+Gather the tomatas on a dry day, and when quite ripe. Peel them,
+and cut them into quarters. Put them into a large earthen pan, and
+mash and squeeze them till they are reduced to a pulp. Allowing
+half a pint of fine salt to a hundred tomatas, put them into a
+preserving kettle, and boil them gently with the salt for two
+hours, stirring them frequently to prevent their burning. Then
+strain them through a fine sieve, pressing them with the back of a
+silver spoon. Season them to your taste with mace, cinnamon,
+nutmeg, ginger, and white or red pepper, all powdered fine.
+
+Put the tomata again over the fire with the spices, and boil it
+slowly till very thick, stirring it frequently.
+
+When cold, put it up in small bottles, secure the corks well, and
+it will keep good a year or two.
+
+
+LEMON CATCHUP.
+
+Cut nine large lemons into thin slices, and take out the seeds.
+Prepare, by pounding them in a mortar, two ounces of mustard seed,
+half an ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter
+of an ounce of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves. Slice
+thin two ounces of horseradish. Put all these ingredients
+together. Strew over them three ounces of fine salt. Add a quart
+of the best vinegar.
+
+Boil the whole twenty minutes. Then put it warm into a jar, and
+let it stand three weeks closely covered. Stir it up daily.
+
+Then strain it through a sieve, and put it up in small bottles to
+flavour fish and other sauces. This is sometimes called lemon
+pickle.
+
+
+SEA CATCHUP.
+
+Take a gallon of stale strong beer, a pound of anchovies washed
+from the pickle, a pound of peeled shalots or small onions, half
+an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce
+of whole pepper, three or four large pieces of ginger, and two
+quarts of large mushroom-flaps rubbed to pieces. Put the whole
+into a kettle closely covered, and let it simmer slowly till
+reduced to one half. Then strain it through a flannel bag, and let
+it stand till quite cold before you bottle it. Have small bottles
+and fill them quite full of the catchup. Dip the corks in melted
+rosin.
+
+This catchup keeps well at sea, and may be carried into any part
+of the world. A spoonful of it mixed in melted butter will make a
+fine fish sauce. It may also be used to flavour gravy.
+
+
+
+
+FLAVOURED VINEGARS.
+
+
+These vinegars will be found very useful, at times when the
+articles with which they are flavoured cannot be conveniently
+procured. Care should be taken to have the bottles that contain
+them accurately labelled, very tightly corked, and kept in a dry
+place. The vinegar used for these purposes should be of the very
+best sort.
+
+
+TARRAGON VINEGAR.
+
+Tarragon should be gathered on a dry day, just before the plant
+flowers. Pick the green leaves from the stalks, and dry them a
+little before the fire. Then put them into a wide-mouthed stone
+jar, and cover them with the best vinegar, filling up the jar. Let
+it steep fourteen days, and then strain it through a flannel bag.
+Pour it through a funnel into half-pint bottles, and cork them
+well.
+
+
+SWEET BASIL VINEGAR.
+
+Is made precisely in the same manner; also those of green mint,
+and sweet marjoram.
+
+
+CELERY VINEGAR.
+
+
+Pound two ounces of celery seed in a mortar, and steep it for a
+fortnight in a quart of vinegar. Then strain and bottle it.
+
+
+BURNET VINEGAR.
+
+Nearly fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of
+burnet, cover them with vinegar, and let them steep two weeks.
+Then strain off the vinegar, wash the bottle, put in a fresh
+supply of burnet leaves, pour the same vinegar over them, and let
+it infuse a
+fortnight longer. Then strain it again and it will be fit for use.
+The flavour will exactly resemble that of cucumbers.
+
+
+HORSERADISH VINEGAR.
+
+Make a quart of the best vinegar boiling hot, and pour it on four
+ounces of scraped horseradish. Let it stand a week, then strain it
+off, renew the horseradish, adding the same vinegar cold, and let
+it infuse a week longer, straining it again at the last.
+
+
+SHALOT VINEGAR.
+
+Peel and chop fine four ounces of shalots, or small button onions.
+Pour on them a quart of the best vinegar, and let them steep a
+fortnight; then strain and bottle it.
+
+Make garlic vinegar in the same manner; using but two ounces of
+garlic to a quart of vinegar. Two or three drops will be
+sufficient to impart a garlic taste to a pint of gravy or sauce.
+More will be offensive. The cook should be cautioned to use it
+very sparingly, as to many persons it is extremely disagreeable.
+
+
+CHILLI VINEGAR.
+
+Take a hundred red chillies or capsicums, fresh gathered; cut them
+into small pieces and infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of
+the best vinegar, shaking the bottle every day. Then strain it.
+
+
+RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
+
+Put two quarts of ripe fresh-gathered raspberries into a stone or
+china vessel, and pour on them a quart of vinegar. Let it stand
+twenty-four hours, and then strain it through a sieve. Pour the
+liquid over two quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it again
+infuse for a day and a night. Then strain it a second time. Allow
+a pound of loaf sugar to every pint of juice. Break up the sugar,
+and let it melt in the liquor. Then put the whole into a stone
+jar, cover it closely, and set it in a kettle of boiling water,
+which must be kept on a quick boil for an hour. Take off all the
+scum and when cold, bottle the vinegar for use.
+
+Raspberry vinegar mixed with water is a pleasant and cooling
+beverage in warm weather; also in fevers.
+
+
+
+
+MUSTARD AND PEPPER.
+
+
+COMMON MUSTARD
+
+Is best when fresh made. Take good flour of mustard; put it in a
+plate, add to it a little salt, and mix it by degrees with boiling
+water to the usual consistence, rubbing it for a long time with a
+broad-bladed knife or a wooden spoon. It should be perfectly
+smooth. The less that is made at a time the better it will be. If
+you wish it very mild, use sugar instead of salt, and boiling milk
+instead of water.
+
+
+KEEPING MUSTARD.
+
+Dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boiling vinegar, and
+pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped horseradish. Cover the jar
+closely and let it stand twenty-four hours. Strain it and then mix
+it by degrees with the best flour of mustard. Make it of the usual
+thickness, and beat it till quite smooth. Then put it into wide-mouthed
+bottles and stop it closely.
+
+
+FRENCH MUSTARD.
+
+Mix together four ounces of the very best mustard
+powder, four salt-spoons of salt, a large table-spoonful of minced
+tarragon leaves, and two cloves of garlic chopped fine. Pour on by
+degrees sufficient vinegar (tarragon vinegar is best) to dilute it
+to the proper consistence. It will probably require about four
+wine-glassfuls or half a pint. Mix it well, using for the purpose
+a wooden spoon. When done, put it into a wide-mouthed bottle or
+into little white jars. Cork it very closely, and keep it in a dry
+place. It will not be fit for use in less than two days.
+
+This (used as the common mustard) is a very agreeable condiment
+for beef or mutton.
+
+
+TO MAKE CAYENNE PEPPER.
+
+Take ripe chillies and dry them a whole day before the fire,
+turning them frequently. When quite dry, trim off the stalks and
+pound the pods in a mortar till they become a fine powder, mixing
+in about one sixth of their weight in salt. Or you may grind them
+in a very fine mill. While pounding the chillies, wear glasses to
+save your eyes from being incommoded by them. Put the powder into
+small bottles, and secure the corks closely.
+
+
+KITCHEN PEPPER.
+
+Mix together two ounces of the best white ginger, an ounce of
+black pepper, an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of cinnamon, an
+ounce of nutmeg, and two dozen cloves. They must all be ground or
+pounded to a fine powder, and thoroughly mixed. Keep the mixture
+in a bottle, labelled, and well corked. It will be found useful in
+seasoning many dishes; and being ready prepared will save much
+trouble.
+
+
+
+
+VEGETABLES
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+All vegetables should be well picked and washed. A very little
+salt should always be thrown into the water in which they are
+boiled. A steady regular fire should be kept up, and they should
+never for a moment be allowed to stop boiling or simmering till
+they are thoroughly done. Every sort of vegetable should be cooked
+till tender, as if the least hard or under-done they are both
+unpalatable and unwholesome. The practice of putting pearl-ash in
+the pot to improve the colour of green vegetables should be
+strictly forbidden, as it destroys the flavour, and either renders
+them flat and insipid, or communicates a very disagreeable taste
+of its own.
+
+Every sort of culinary vegetable is infinitely best when fresh
+from the garden, and gathered as short a time as possible before
+it is cooked. They should all be laid in a pan of cold water for a
+while previous to boiling.
+
+When done, they should be carefully drained before they go to
+table, or they will be washy all through, and leave puddles of
+discoloured water in the bottoms of the dishes, to the disgust of
+the company and the discredit of the cook.
+
+
+TO BOIL POTATOES.
+
+Potatoes that are boiled together, should be as nearly as possible
+of the same size. Wash, but do not pare them. Put them into a pot
+with water enough to cover them about an inch, and do not put on
+the pot lid. When the water is very near boiling, pour it off, and
+replace it with the same quantity of cold water, into which throw
+a good portion of salt. The cold water sends the heat from the
+surface to the heart, and makes the potatoes mealy. Potatoes of a
+moderate size will require about half an hour boiling; large ones
+an hour. Try them with a fork. When done, pour off the water,
+cover the pot with a folded napkin, or flannel, and let them stand
+by the fire about a quarter of an hour to dry.
+
+Peel them and send them to table.
+
+Potatoes should not be served up with the skins on. It has a
+coarse, slovenly look, and disfigures the appearance of the
+dinner; besides the trouble and inconvenience of peeling them at
+table.
+
+When the skins crack in boiling, it is no proof that they are
+done, as too much fire under the pot will cause the skins of some
+potatoes to break while the inside is hard.
+
+After March, when potatoes are old, it is best to pare them before
+boiling and to cut out all the blemishes. It is then better to
+mash them always before they are sent to table. Mash them when
+quite hot, using a potato-beetle for the purpose; add to them a
+piece of fresh butter, and a little salt, and, if convenient, some
+milk, which will greatly improve them. You may score and brown
+them on the top.
+
+A very nice way of serving up potatoes is, after they are peeled,
+to pour over them some hot cream in which a very little butter has
+been melted, and sprinkle them with pepper. This is frequently
+done in country houses where cream is plenty. New potatoes (as
+they are called when quite young) require no peeling, but should
+be well washed and brushed before they are boiled.
+
+
+FRIED POTATOES.
+
+Take cold potatoes that have been boiled, grate them, make them
+into flat cakes, and fry them in butter. They are nice at
+breakfast. You may mix some beaten yolk of egg with them.
+
+Cold potatoes may be fried in slices or quarters, or broiled on a
+gridiron.
+
+Raw potatoes, when fried, are generally hard, tough, and strong.
+
+
+POTATO SNOW.
+
+For this purpose use potatoes that are very white, mealy, and
+smooth. Boil them very carefully, and when they are done, peel
+them, pour off the water, and set them on a trivet before the fire
+till they are quite dry and powdery. Then rub them through a
+coarse wire sieve into the dish on which they are to go to table.
+Do not disturb the heap of potatoes before it is served up, or the
+flakes will fall and it will flatten. This preparation looks well;
+but many think that it renders the potato insipid.
+
+
+ROASTED POTATOES.
+
+Take large fine potatoes; wash and dry them, and either lay them
+on the hearth and keep them buried in hot wood ashes, or bake them
+slowly in a Dutch oven. They will not be done in less than two
+hours. It will save time to half-boil them before they are
+roasted. Send them to table with the skins on, and eat them with
+cold butter and salt. They are introduced with cold meat at
+supper.
+
+Potatoes keep best buried in sand or earth. They should never be
+wetted till they are washed for cooking. If you have them in the
+cellar, see that they are well covered with matting or old carpet,
+as the frost injures them greatly.
+
+
+SWEET POTATOES BOILED.
+
+If among your sweet potatoes there should he any that are very
+large and thick, split them, and cut them in four, that they may
+not require longer time to cook than the others. Boil them with
+the skins on in plenty of water, but without any salt. You may set
+the pot on coals in the corner. Try them with a fork, and see that
+they are done all through; they will take at least an hour. Then
+drain off the water, and set them for a few minutes in a tin pan
+before the fire, or in the stove, that they may be well dried.
+Peel them before they are sent to table.
+
+
+FRIED SWEET POTATOES.
+
+Choose them of the largest size. Half boil them, and then having
+taken off the skins, cut the potatoes in slices, and fry them in
+butter, or in nice dripping.
+
+Sweet potatoes are very good stewed with fresh pork, veal, or
+beef.
+
+The best way to keep them through the cold weather, is to bury
+them in earth or sand; otherwise they will be scarcely eatable
+after October.
+
+
+CABBAGE.
+
+All vegetables of the cabbage kind should be carefully washed, and
+examined in case of insects lurking among the leaves. To prepare a
+cabbage for boiling, remove the outer leaves, and pare and trim
+the stalk, cutting it close and short. If the cabbage is large,
+quarter it; if small, cut it in half; and let it stand for a while
+in a deep part of cold water with the large end downwards. Put it
+into a pot with plenty of water, (having first tied it together to
+keep it whole while boiling,) and, taking off the scum, boil it
+two hours, or till the stalk is quite tender. When done, drain and
+squeeze it well. Before you send it to table introduce a little
+fresh butter between the leaves; or have melted butter in a boat.
+If it has been boiled with meat add no butter to it.
+
+A young cabbage will boil in an hour or an hour and a half.
+
+
+CALE-CANNON.
+
+Boil separately some potatoes and cabbage. When done, drain and
+squeeze the cabbage, and chop or mince it very small. Mash the
+potatoes, and mix them gradually but thoroughly with the chopped
+cabbage, adding butter, pepper and salt. There should be twice as
+much potato as cabbage.
+
+Cale-cannon is eaten with corned beef, boiled pork, or bacon.
+
+Cabbages may be kept good all winter by burying them in a hole dug
+in the ground.
+
+
+CAULIFLOWER
+
+Remove the green leaves that surround the head or white part, and
+peel off the outside skin of the small piece of stalk that is left
+on. Cut the cauliflower in four, and lay it for an hour in a pan
+of cold water. Then tie it together before it goes into the pot.
+Put it into boiling water and simmer it till the stalk is
+thoroughly tender, keeping it well covered with water, and
+carefully removing the scum. It will take about two hours.
+
+Take it up as soon as it is done; remaining in the water will
+discolour it. Drain it well, and send it to table with melted
+butter.
+
+It will be much whiter if put on in boiling milk and water.
+
+
+BROCOLI.
+
+Prepare brocoli for boiling in the same manner as cauliflower,
+leaving the stalks rather longer, and splitting the head in half
+only. Tie it together again, before it goes into the pot. Put it
+on in hot water, and let it simmer till the stalk is perfectly
+tender.
+
+As soon as it is done take it out of the water and drain it. Send
+melted butter to table with it.
+
+
+SPINACH.
+
+Spinach requires close examination and picking, as insects are
+frequently found among it, and it is often gritty. Wash it through
+three or four waters. Then drain it, and put it on in boiling
+water. Ten minutes is generally sufficient time to boil spinach.
+Be careful to remove the scum. When it is quite tender, take it
+up, and drain and squeeze it well. Chop it fine, and put it into a
+sauce-pan with a piece of butter and a little pepper and salt. Set
+it on hot coals, and let it stew five minutes, stirring it all the
+time.
+
+
+SPINACH AND EGGS.
+
+Boil the spinach as above, and drain and press it, but do not chop
+it. Have ready some eggs poached as follows. Boil in a sauce-pan,
+and skim some clear spring water, adding to it a table-spoonful of
+vinegar. Break the eggs separately, and having taken the sauce-pan
+off the fire, slip the eggs one at a time into it with as much
+dexterity as you can. Let the sauce-pan stand by the side of the
+fire till the white is set, and then put it over the fire for two
+minutes. The yolk should be thinly covered by the white. Take them
+up with an egg slice, and having trimmed the edges of the whites,
+lay the eggs on the top of the spinach, which should firstly
+seasoned with pepper and salt and a little butter, and must be
+sent to table hot.
+
+
+TURNIPS.
+
+Take off a thick paring from the outside, and boil the turnips
+gently for an hour and a half. Try them with a fork, and when
+quite tender, take them up, drain them on a sieve, and either send
+them to table whole with melted butter, or mash them in a
+cullender, (pressing and squeezing them well;) season with a
+little pepper and salt, and mix with them a very small quantity of
+butter. Setting in the sun after they are cooked, or on a part of
+the table upon which the sun may happen to shine, will give to
+turnips a singularly unpleasant taste, and should therefore he
+avoided.
+
+When turnips are very young, it is customary to serve them up with
+about two inches of the green top left on them.
+
+If stewed with meat, they should be sliced or quartered.
+
+Mutton, either boiled or roasted, should always be accompanied by
+turnips.
+
+
+CARROTS.
+
+Wash and scrape them well. If large cut them into two three, or
+four pieces. Put them into boiling water with a little salt in it.
+Full grown carrots will require three hours' boiling; smaller ones
+two hours, and young ones an hour. Try them with a fork, and when
+they are tender throughout, take them up and dry them in a cloth.
+Divide them in pieces and split them, or cut them into slices.
+
+Eat them with melted butter. They should accompany boiled beef or
+mutton.
+
+
+PARSNIPS.
+
+Wash, scrape and split them. Put them into a pot of boiling water;
+add a little salt, and boil them till quite tender, which will be
+in from two to three hours, according to their size. Dry them in a
+cloth when done, and pour melted butter over them in the dish.
+Serve them up with any sort of boiled meat, or with salt cod.
+
+Parsnips are very good baked or stewed with meat.
+
+
+RUSSIAN OR SWEDISH TURNIPS
+
+This turnip (the Ruta Baga) is very large and of a reddish yellow
+colour; they are generally much liked. Take off a thick paring,
+cut the turnips into large pieces, or thick slices, and lay them
+awhile in cold water. Then boil them gently about two hours, or
+till they are quite soft. When done, drain, squeeze and mash them,
+and season them with pepper and salt, and a very little butter.
+Take care not to set them in a part of the table where the sun
+comes, as it will spoil the taste.
+
+Russian turnips should always be mashed.
+
+
+SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.
+
+The green or summer squash is best when the outside is beginning
+to turn yellow, as it is then less watery and insipid than when
+younger. Wash them, cut them into pieces, and take out the seeds.
+Boil them about three quarters of an hour, or till quits tender.
+When done, drain and squeeze them well till you have pressed out
+all the water; mash them with a little butter, pepper and salt.
+Then put the squash thus prepared into a stew-pan, set it on hot
+coals, and stir it very frequently till it becomes dry. Take care
+not to let it burn.
+
+
+WINTER SQUASH, OR CASHAW.
+
+This is much finer than the summer squash. It is fit to eat in
+August, and, in a dry warm place, can be kept well all winter. The
+colour is a very bright yellow. Pare it, take out the seeds, cut
+it in pieces, and stew it slowly till quite soft, in a very little
+water. Afterwards drain, squeeze, and press it well, and mash it
+with a very little butter, pepper and salt.
+
+
+PUMPKIN.
+
+Deep coloured pumpkins are generally the best. In a dry warm place
+they can be kept perfectly good all winter. When you prepare to
+stew a pumpkin, cut it in half and take out all the seeds. Then
+cut it in thick slices, and pare them. Put it into a pot with a
+very little water, and stew it gently for an hour, or till soft
+enough to mash. Then take it out, drain, and squeeze it till it is
+as dry as you can get it.
+
+Afterwards mash it, adding a little pepper and salt, and a very
+little butter.
+
+Pumpkin is frequently stewed with fresh beef or fresh pork.
+
+The water in which pumpkin has been boiled, is said to be very
+good to mix bread with, it having a tendency to improve it in
+sweetness and to keep it moist.
+
+
+HOMINY.
+
+Wash the hominy very clean through three or four waters. Then put
+it into a pot (allowing two quarts of water to one quart of
+hominy) and boil it slowly five hours. When done, take it up, and
+drain the liquid from it through a cullender. Put the hominy into
+a deep dish, and stir into it a small piece of fresh butter.
+
+The small grained hominy is boiled in rather less water, and
+generally eaten with butter and sugar.
+
+
+INDIAN CORN.
+
+Corn for boiling should be full grown but young and tender. When
+the grains become yellow it is too old. Strip it of the outside
+leaves and the silk, but let the inner leaves remain, as they will
+keep in the sweetness. Put it into a large pot with plenty of
+water, and boil it rather fast for three hours or more. When done,
+drain off the water, and remove the leaves.
+
+You may either lay the ears on a large flat dish and send them to
+table whole, or broken in half; or you may cut all the com off the
+cob, and serve it up in a deep dish, mixed with butter, pepper and
+salt.
+
+
+MOCK OYSTERS OF CORN.
+
+Take a dozen and a half ears of large young corn, and grate all
+the grains off the cob as fine as possible. Mix with the grated
+corn three large table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, the yolks of six
+eggs well beaten. Let all be well incorporated by hard beating.
+
+Have ready in a frying-pan an equal proportion of lard and fresh
+butter. Hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and then put
+in portions of the mixture as nearly as possible in shape and size
+like fried oysters. Fry them brown, and send them to table hot.
+They should be near an inch thick.
+
+This is an excellent relish at breakfast, and may be introduced as
+a side dish at dinner. In taste it has a singular resemblance to
+fried oysters. The corn must be young.
+
+
+STEWED EGG PLANT.
+
+The purple egg plants are better than the white ones. Put them
+whole into a pot with plenty of water, and simmer them till quite
+tender. Then take them out, drain them, and (having peeled off the
+skins) cut them up, and mash them smooth in a deep dish. Mix with
+them some grated bread, some powdered sweet marjoram, and a large
+piece of butter, adding a few pounded cloves. Grate a layer of
+bread over the top, and put the dish into the oven and brown it.
+You must send it to table in the same dish.
+
+Eggplant is sometimes eaten at dinner, but generally at breakfast.
+
+
+TO FRY EGG PLANT.
+
+Do not pare your egg plants if they are to be fried, but slice
+them about half an inch thick, and lay them an hour or two in salt
+and water to remove their strong taste, which to most persons is
+very unpleasant. Then take them out, wipe them, and season them,
+with pepper only. Beat some yolk of egg; and in another dish grate
+a sufficiency of bread-crumbs. Have ready in a frying-pan some
+lard and batter mixed, and make it boil. Then dip each slice of
+egg plant first in the egg, and then in the crumbs, till both
+sides are well covered; and fry them brown, taking care to have
+them done all through, as the least rawness renders them very
+unpalatable.
+
+
+STUFFED EGG PLANTS.
+
+Parboil them to take off their bitterness. Then slit each one down
+the side, and extract the seeds. Have ready a stuffing made of
+grated bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet herbs, salt, pepper,
+nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Fill with it the cavity from
+whence you took the seeds, and bake the egg plants in a Dutch
+oven. Serve them up with a made gravy poured into the dish.
+
+
+FRIED CUCUMBERS.
+
+Having pared your cucumbers, cut them lengthways into pieces about
+as thick as a dollar. Then dry them in a cloth. Season them with
+pepper and salt, and sprinkle them thick with flour. Melt some
+butter in a frying-pan, and when it boils, put in the slices of
+cucumber, and fry them of a light brown. Send them to table hot.
+
+They make a breakfast dish..
+
+
+TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW.
+
+They should be as fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables
+being more unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are
+brought in lay them in cold water. Just before they are to go to
+table take them out, pare them and slice them into a pan of fresh
+cold water. When they are all sliced, transfer them to a deep
+dish, season them with a little salt and black pepper, and pour
+over them some of the best vinegar, to which you may add a little
+salad oil. You may mix with them a small quantity of sliced onion;
+not to be eaten, but to communicate a slight flavour of onion to
+the vinegar.
+
+
+SALSIFY.
+
+Having scraped the salsify roots, and washed them in cold water,
+parboil them. Then take them out, drain them, cut them into large
+pieces and fry them in butter.
+
+Salsify is frequently stewed slowly till quite tender, and then
+served up with melted butter. Or it may be first boiled, then
+grated, and made into cakes to be fried in butter.
+
+Salsify must not be left exposed to the air, or it will turn
+blackish.
+
+
+ARTICHOKES.
+
+Strip off the coarse outer leaves, and cut off the stalks close to
+the bottom. Wash the artichokes well, and let them lie two or
+three hours in cold water. Put them with their heads downward into
+a pot of boiling water, keeping them down by a plate floated over
+them. They must boil steadily from two to three hours; take care
+to replenish the pot with additional boiling water as it is
+wanted. When they are tender all through, drain them, and serve
+them up with melted butter.
+
+
+BEETS.
+
+Wash the beets, but do not scrape or cut them while they are raw;
+for if a knife enters them before they are boiled they will lose
+their colour. Boil them from two to three hours, according to
+their size. When they are tender all through, take them up, and
+scrape off all the outside. If they are young beets they are best
+split down and cut into long pieces, seasoned with pepper, and
+sent to table with melted butter. Otherwise you may slice them
+thin, after they are quite cold, and pour vinegar over them.
+
+
+TO STEW BEETS.
+
+Boil them first, and then scrape and slice them. Put them into a
+stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some boiled onion
+and parsley chopped fine, and a little vinegar, salt and pepper.
+Set the pan on hot coals, and let the beets stew for a quarter of
+an hour.
+
+
+TO BOIL GREEN OR FRENCH BEANS.
+
+These beans should be young, tender, and fresh gathered. Remove
+the strings with a knife, and take off both ends of the bean. Then
+cut them in two or three pieces only; for if split or cut very
+small, they become watery and lose much of their taste. They look
+best when cut slanting. As you cut them, throw them into a pan of
+cold water, and let them lay awhile. Boil them an hour and a half.
+They must be perfectly tender before you take them up. Then drain
+and press them well, season them with pepper, and mix into them a
+piece of butter.
+
+
+SCARLET BEANS.
+
+It is not generally known that the pod of the scarlet bean, if
+green and young, is extremely nice when cut into three or four
+pieces and boiled. They will require near two hours, and must be
+drained well, and mixed as before mentioned with butter and
+pepper. If gathered at the proper time, when the seed is just
+perceptible, they are superior to any of the common beans.
+
+
+LIMA BEANS.
+
+These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should
+be gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water,
+and then boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft.
+Drain them well, and add to them some butter and a little pepper.
+
+They are destroyed by the first frost, but can be kept during the
+winter, by gathering them on a dry day when full grown but not the
+least hard, and putting them in their pods into a keg. Throw some
+salt into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a layer of the
+bean-pods; then add more salt, and then another layer of beans,
+till the keg is full. Press them down with a heavy weight, cover
+the keg closely, and keep it in a cool dry place. Before you use
+them, soak the pods all night in cold water; the next day shell
+them, and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them.
+
+
+DRIED BEANS.
+
+Wash them and lay them in soak over night. Early in the morning
+put them into a pot with plenty of water, and boil them slowly
+till dinner time. They will require seven or eight hours to be
+sufficiently done. Then take them off, put them into a sieve, and
+strain off the liquid.
+
+Send the beans to table in a deep dish, seasoned with pepper, and
+having a piece of butter mixed with them.
+
+
+GREEN PEAS.
+
+Green peas are unfit for eating after they become hard and
+yellowish; but they are better when nearly full grown than when
+very small and young. They should be gathered as short a time as
+possible before they are cooked, and laid in cold water as soon as
+they are shelled. They will require about an hour to boil soft.
+When quite done, drain them, mix with them a piece of butter, and
+add a little pepper.
+
+Peas may be greatly improved by boiling with them two or three
+lumps of loaf-sugar, and a sprig of mint to be taken out before
+they are dished. This is an English way of cooking green peas, and
+is to most tastes a very good one.
+
+
+TO BOIL ONIONS.
+
+Take off the tops and tails, and the thin outer skin; but no
+more lest the onions should go to pieces. Lay them on the bottom
+of a pan which is broad enough to contain them without piling one
+on another; just cover them with water, and let them simmer slowly
+till they are tender all through, but not till they break.
+
+Serve them up with melted butter.
+
+
+TO ROAST ONIONS.
+
+Onions are best when parboiled before roasting. Take large onions,
+place them on a hot hearth and roast them before the fire in their
+skins, turning them as they require it. Then peel them, send them
+to table whole, and eat them with butter and salt.
+
+
+TO FRY ONIONS.
+
+Peel, slice them, and fry them brown in butter or nice dripping.
+
+Onions should be kept in a very dry place, as dampness injures
+them.
+
+
+TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.
+
+Large or full grown asparagus is the best. Before you begin to
+prepare it for cooking, set on the fire a pot with plenty of
+water, and sprinkle into it a handful of salt. Your asparagus
+should be all of the same size. Scrape the stalks till they are
+perfectly nice and white; cut them all of equal length, and short,
+so as to leave them but two or three inches below the green part.
+To serve up asparagus with long stalks is now becoming obsolete.
+As you scrape them, throw them into a pan of cold water. Then tie
+them up in small bundles with bass or tape, as twine will cut them
+to pieces. When the water is boiling fast, put in the asparagus,
+and boil it an hour; if old it will require an hour and a quarter.
+When it is nearly done boiling, toast a large slice of bread
+sufficient to cover the dish (first cutting off the crust) and dip
+it into the asparagus water in the pot. Lay it in a dish, and,
+having drained the asparagus, place it on the toast with all the
+heads pointed inwards towards the centre, and the stalks spreading
+outwards. Serve up melted butter with it.
+
+
+SEA KALE.
+
+Sea kale is prepared, boiled, and served up in the same manner as
+asparagus.
+
+
+POKE.
+
+The young stalks and leaves of the poke-berry plant when quite
+small and first beginning to sprout up from the ground in the
+spring, are by most persons considered very nice, and are
+frequently brought to market. If the least too old they acquire a
+strong taste, and should not be eaten, as they then become
+unwholesome. They are in a proper state when the part of the stalk
+nearest to the ground is not thicker than small asparagus. Scrape
+the stalks, (letting the leaves remain on them,) and throw them
+into cold water. Then tie up the poke in bundles, put it into a
+pot that has plenty of boiling water, and let it boil fast an hour
+at least. Serve it up with or without toast, and send melted
+butter with, it in a boat.
+
+
+STEWED TOMATAS.
+
+Peel your tomatas, cut them in half and squeeze out the seeds.
+Then put them into a stew-pan without any water, and add to them
+cayenne and salt to your taste, (and if you choose,) a little
+minced onion, and some powdered mace, Stew them slowly till they
+are first dissolved and then dry.
+
+
+BAKED TOMATAS
+
+Peel some large fine tomatas, cut them up, and take out the seeds.
+Then put them into a deep dish in alternate layers with grated
+bread-crumbs, and a very little butter in small bits. There must be
+a large proportion of bread-crumbs. Season the whole with a little
+salt, and cayenne pepper. Set it in an oven, and bake it. In
+cooking tomatas, take care not to have them too liquid.
+
+
+MUSHROOMS.
+
+Good mushrooms are only found in clear open fields where the air
+is pure and unconfined. Those that grow in low damp ground, or in
+shady places, are always poisonous. Mushrooms of the proper sort
+generally appear in August and September, after a heavy dew or a
+misty night. They may be known by their being of a pale pink or
+salmon colour on the gills or under side, while the top is of a
+dull pearl-coloured white; and by their growing only in open
+places. When they are a day old, or a few hours after they are
+gathered, the reddish colour changes to brown.
+
+The poisonous or false mushrooms are of various colours, sometimes
+of a bright yellow or scarlet all over; sometimes entirely of a
+chalky white stalk, top, and gills.
+
+It is easy to detect a bad mushroom if all are quite fresh; but
+after being gathered a few hours the colours change, so that
+unpractised persons frequently mistake them.
+
+It is said that if you boil an onion among mushrooms the onion
+will turn of a bluish black when there is a bad one among them. Of
+course, the whole should then be thrown into the fire. If in
+stirring mushrooms, the colour of the silver spoon is changed, it
+is also most prudent to destroy them all.
+
+
+TO STEW MUSHROOMS.
+
+For this purpose the small button mushrooms are best. Wash them
+clean, peel off the skin, and cut off the stalks. Put the
+trimmings into a small sauce-pan with just enough water to keep
+them from burning, and, covering them closely, let them stew a
+quarter of an hour. Then strain the liquor, and having put the
+mushrooms into a clean sauce-pan, (a silver one, or one lined with
+porcelain,) add the liquid to them with a little nutmeg, pepper
+and salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Stew them fifteen
+minutes, and just before you take them up, stir in a very little
+cream or rich milk and some beaten yolk of egg. Serve them hot.
+While they are cooking, keep the pan as closely covered as
+possible.
+
+If you wish to have the full taste of the mushroom only, after
+washing, trimming, and peeling them, put them into a stew-pan with
+a little salt and no water. Set them on coals, and stew them
+slowly till tender, adding nothing to them but a little butter
+rolled in flour, or else a little cream. Be sure to keep the pan
+well covered.
+
+
+BROILED MUSHROOMS.
+
+For this purpose take large mushrooms, and be careful to have them
+freshly gathered. Peel them, score the under side, and cut off the
+stems. Lay them one by one in an earthen pan, brushing them over
+with sweet oil or oiled butter, and sprinkling each with a little
+pepper and salt. Cover them closely, and let them set for about an
+hour and a half. Then place them on a gridiron over clear hot
+coals, and broil them on both sides.
+
+Make a gravy for them of their trimmings stewed in a very little
+water, strained and thickened with a beaten egg stirred in just
+before it goes to table.
+
+
+BOILED RICE.
+
+Pick your rice clean, and wash it in two cold waters, not draining
+off the last water till you are ready to put the rice on the fire.
+Prepare a sauce-pan of water with a little salt in it, and when it
+boils, sprinkle in the rice. Boil it hard twenty minutes, keeping
+it covered. Then take it from the fire, and pour off the water.
+Afterwards set the sauce-pan in the chimney-corner with the lid
+off, while you are dishing your dinner, to allow the rice to dry,
+and the grains to separate.
+
+Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and every
+grain ought to stand alone. If badly managed, it will, when
+brought to table, be a grayish watery mass.
+
+In most southern families, rice, is boiled every day for the
+dinner table, and eaten with the meat and poultry.
+
+The above is a Carolina receipt.
+
+
+TO DRESS LETTUCE AS SALAD.
+
+Strip off the outer leaves, wash the lettuce, split it in half,
+and lay it in cold water till dinner time. Then drain it and put
+it into a salad dish. Have ready two eggs boiled hard, (which they
+will be in twelve minutes,) and laid in a basin of cold water for
+five minutes to prevent the whites from turning blue. Cut them in
+half, and lay them on the lettuce.
+
+Put the yolks of the eggs on a large plate, and with a wooden
+spoon mash them smooth, mixing with them a table-spoonful of
+water, and two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Then add, by degrees,
+a salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a tea-spoonful
+of powdered loaf-sugar. When these are all smoothly
+united, add very gradually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. The
+lettuce having been cut up fine on another plate, put it to the
+dressing, and mix it well.
+
+If you have the dressing for salad made before a dinner, put it
+into the bottom of the salad dish; then (having cut it up) lay the
+salad upon it, and let it rest till it is to be eaten, as stirring
+it will injure it.
+
+You may decorate the top of the salad with slices of red beet, and
+with the hard white of the eggs cut into rings.
+
+
+CELERY.
+
+Scrape and wash it well, and let it lie in cold water till shortly
+before it goes to table; then dry it in a cloth, trim it, and
+split down the stalks almost to the bottom, leaving on a few green
+leaves. Send it to table in a celery glass, and eat it with salt
+only; or chop it fine, and make a salad dressing for it.
+
+
+RADISHES.
+
+To prepare radishes for eating, wash them and lay them in clean
+cold water as soon as they are brought in. Shortly before they go
+to table, scrape off the thin outside skin, trim the sharp end,
+cut off the leaves at the top, leaving the stalks about an inch
+long, and put them on a small dish. Eat them with salt.
+
+Radishes should not be eaten the day after they are pulled, as
+they are extremely unwholesome if not quite fresh.
+
+The thick white radishes, after being scraped and trimmed, should
+be split or cleft in four, half way down from the top.
+
+
+TO ROAST CHESTNUTS.
+
+The large Spanish chestnuts are the best for roasting. Cut a slit
+in the shell of every one to prevent their bursting when hot. Put
+them into a pan, and set them over a charcoal furnace till they
+are thoroughly roasted; stirring them up frequently and taking
+care hot to let them burn. When they are done, peel off the
+shells, and send the chestnuts to table wrapped up in a napkin to
+keep them warm.
+
+Chestnuts should always be roasted or boiled before they are
+eaten.
+
+
+GROUND-NUTS.
+
+These nuts are never eaten raw. Put them, with their shells on,
+into an iron pan, and set them in an oven; or you may do them in a
+skillet on hot coals. A large quantity may be roasted in an iron
+pot over the fire. Stir them frequently, taking one out from time
+to time, and breaking it to try if they are done.
+
+
+
+
+EGGS, &c.
+
+
+TO KEEP EGGS.
+
+There is no infallible mode of ascertaining the freshness of an
+egg before you break it, but unless an egg is perfectly good, it
+is unfit for any purpose whatever, and will spoil whatever it is
+mixed with. You may judge with tolerable accuracy of the state of
+an egg by holding it against the sun or the candle, and if the
+yolk, as you see it through the shell, appears round, and the
+white thin and clear, it is most probably a good one; but if the
+yolk looks broken, and the white thick and cloudy, the egg is
+certainly bad. You may try the freshness of eggs by putting them
+into a pan of cold water. Those that sink the soonest are the
+freshest; those that are stale or addled will float on the
+surface.
+
+There are various ways of preserving eggs. To keep them merely for
+plain boiling, you may parboil them for one minute, and then bury
+them in powdered charcoal with their small ends downward. They
+will keep a few days in ajar of salt; but do not afterwards use
+the salt in which they have been immersed.
+
+They are frequently preserved for two or three months by greasing
+them all over, when quite fresh, with melted mutton suet, and then
+wedging them close together (the small end downwards) in a box of
+bran, layer above layer; the box must be closely covered.
+
+Another way (and a very good one) is to put some lime in a large
+vessel, and slack it with boiling water, till it is of the
+consistence of thin cream; you may allow a gallon of water to a
+pound of lime. When it is cold, pour it off into a large stone
+jar, put in the eggs, and cover the jar closely. See that the eggs
+are always well covered with the lime-water, and lest they should
+break, avoid moving the jar. If you have hens of your own, keep a
+jar of lime-water always ready, and put in the eggs as they are
+brought in from the nests. Jars that hold about six quarts are the
+most convenient.
+
+It will be well to renew the lime-water occasionally.
+
+
+TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST.
+
+The fresher they are the longer time
+they will require for boiling. If you wish them quite soft, put
+them into a sauce-pan of water that is boiling hard at the moment,
+and let them remain in it five minutes. The longer they boil the
+harder they will be. In ten minutes' fast boiling they will be
+hard enough for salad.
+
+If you use one of the tin egg-boilers that are placed on the
+table, see that the water is boiling hard at the time you put in
+the eggs. When they have been in about four or five minutes, take
+them out, pour off the water, and replace it by some more that is
+boiling hard; as, from the coldness of the eggs having chilled the
+first water, they will not otherwise be done enough. The boiler
+may then be placed on the table, (keeping the lid closed,) and in
+a few minutes more they will be sufficiently cooked to be
+wholesome.
+
+
+TO POACH EGGS.
+
+Pour some boiling water out of a tea kettle through a clean cloth
+spread over the top of a broad stew-pan; for by observing this
+process the eggs will be nicer and more easily done than when its
+impurities remain in the water. Set the pan with the strained
+water on hot coals, and when it boils break each egg separately
+into a saucer. Remove the pan from the fire, and slip the eggs one
+by one into the surface of the water. Let the pan stand till the
+white of the eggs is set; then place it again on the coals, and as
+soon as the water boils again, the eggs will be sufficiently done.
+Take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and trim off all the
+ragged edges from the white, which should thinly cover the yolk.
+Have ready some thin slices of buttered toast with the crust cut
+off. Lay them in the bottom of the dish, with a poached egg on
+each slice of toast, and send them to the breakfast table.
+
+
+FRICASSEED EGGS.
+
+Take a dozen eggs, and boil them six or seven minutes, or till
+they are just hard enough to peel and slice without breaking. Then
+put them into a pan of cold water while you prepare some grated
+bread-crumbs, (seasoned with pepper, salt and nutmeg,) and beat the
+yolks of two or three raw eggs very light. Take the boiled eggs
+out of the water, and having peeled off the shells, slice the
+eggs, dust a little flour over them, and dip them first into the
+beaten egg, and then into the bread-crumbs so as to cover them well
+on both sides. Have ready in a frying-pan some boiling lard; put
+the sliced eggs into it, and fry them on both sides. Serve them up
+at the breakfast table, garnished with small sprigs of parsley
+that has been fried in the same lard after the eggs were taken
+out.
+
+
+PLAIN OMELET.
+
+Take six eggs, leaving out the whites of two. Beat them very
+light, and strain them through a sieve. Add pepper and salt to
+your taste. Divide two ounces of fresh butter into little bits,
+and put it into the egg. Have ready a quarter of a pound of butter
+in a frying-pan, or a flat stew-pan. Place it on hot coals, and
+have the butter boiling when you put in the beaten egg. Fry it
+gently till of a light brown on the under side. Do not turn it
+while cooking as it will do better without. You may brown the top
+by holding a hot shovel over it. When done, lay it in the dish,
+double it in half, and stick sprigs of curled parsley over it.
+
+You may flavour the omelet by mixing with the beaten egg some
+parsley or sweet herbs minced fine, some chopped celery, or
+chopped onion, allowing two moderate sized onions to an omelet of
+six eggs. Or what is still better, it may be seasoned with veal
+kidney or sweet-bread minced; with cold ham shred as fine as
+possible; or with minced oysters, (the hard part omitted,) with
+tops of asparagus (that has been previously boiled) cut into small
+pieces.
+
+You should have one of the pans that are made purposely for
+omelets.
+
+
+AN OMELETTE SOUFFLE.
+
+Break eight eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and strain
+them. Put the whites into one pan, and the yolks into another, and
+beat them separately with rods till the yolks are very thick and
+smooth, and the whites a stiff froth that will stand alone. Then
+add gradually to the yolks, three quarters of a pound of the
+finest powdered loaf-sugar, and orange-flower water or lemon-juice
+to your taste. Next stir the whites lightly into the yolks. Butter
+a deep pan or dish (that has been previously heated) and pour the
+mixture rapidly into it. Set it in a Butch oven with coals under
+it, and on the top, and bake it five minutes. If properly beaten
+and mixed, and carefully baked, it will rise very high. Send it
+immediately to table, or it will fall and flatten.
+
+Do not begin to make an omelette souffle till the company at table
+have commenced their dinner, that it may be ready to serve up just
+in time, immediately on the removal of the meats. The whole must
+be accomplished as quickly as possible, and it must be cut and
+sent round directly that it is brought to table.
+
+If you live in a large town, the safest way of avoiding a failure
+in an omelette souffle is to hire a French cook to come to your
+kitchen with his own utensils and ingredients, and make and bake
+it himself, while the first part of the dinner is progressing in
+the dining room.
+
+An omelette souffle is a very nice and delicate thing when
+properly managed; but if flat and heavy it should not be brought
+to table.
+
+
+TO DRESS MACCARONI.
+
+Have ready a pot of boiling water. Throw a little salt into it,
+and then by slow degrees put in a pound of the maccaroni, a little
+at a time. Keep stirring it gently, and continue to do so very
+often while boiling. Take care to keep it well covered with water.
+Have ready a kettle of boiling water to replenish the maccaroni
+pot if it should be in danger of getting too dry. In about twenty
+minutes it will be done. It must be quite soft, but it must not
+boil long enough to break.
+
+When the maccaroni has boiled sufficiently, pour in immediately a
+little cold water, and let it stand a few minutes, keeping it
+covered.
+
+Grate half a pound of Parmesan cheese into a deep dish, and
+scatter over it a few small bits of butter. Then with a skimmer
+that is perforated with holes, commence taking up the maccaroni,
+(draining it well,) and spread a layer of it over the cheese and
+butter. Spread over it another layer of grated cheese and butter,
+and then a layer of maccaroni and so on till your dish is full;
+having a layer of maccaroni on the top, over which spread some
+butter without cheese. Cover the dish, and set it in an oven for
+half an hour. It will then be ready to send to table.
+
+You may grate some nutmeg over each, layer of maccaroni.
+
+Allow half a pound of butter to a pound of maccaroni and half a
+pound of cheese.
+
+
+
+
+PICKLING
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Never on any consideration use brass, copper, or bell-metal
+settles for pickling; the verdigris produced in them by the
+vinegar being of a most poisonous nature. Kettles lined with
+porcelain are the best, but if you cannot procure them, block tin
+may be substituted. Iron is apt to discolour any acid that is
+boiled in it.
+
+Vinegar for pickles should always be of the very best kind. In
+putting away pickles, use stone, or glass jars. The lead which is
+an ingredient in the glazing of common earthenware, is rendered
+very pernicious by the action of the vinegar. Have a large wooden
+spoon and a fork, for the express purpose of taking pickles out of
+the jar when you want them for the table. See that, while in the
+jar, they are always completely covered with vinegar. If you
+discern in them any symptoms of not keeping well, do them over
+again in fresh vinegar and spice.
+
+Vinegar for pickles should only boil five or six minutes.
+
+The jars should be stopped with large flat corks, fitting closely,
+and having a leather or a round piece of oil-cloth tied over the
+cork.
+
+It is a good rule to have two-thirds of the jar filled with
+pickles, and one-third with vinegar.
+
+Alum is very useful in extracting the salt taste from pickles, and
+in making them firm and crisp. A very small quantity is
+sufficient. Too much will spoil them.
+
+In greening pickles keep them very closely covered, so that none
+of the steam may escape; as its retention promotes their greenness
+and prevents the flavour from evaporating.
+
+Vinegar and spice for pickles should be boiled but a few minutes.
+Too much boiling takes away the strength.
+
+
+TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS.
+
+Cucumbers for pickling should be very small, and as free from
+spots as possible. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to
+bear an egg. Pour it over your cucumbers, cover them with fresh
+cabbage leaves, and let them stand for a week, or till they are
+quite yellow, stirring them at least twice a day. When they are
+perfectly yellow, pour off the water. Take a porcelain kettle, and
+cover the bottom and sides with fresh vine leaves. Put in the
+cucumbers (with a small piece of alum) and cover them closely with
+vine leaves all over the top, and then with a dish or cloth to
+keep in the steam. Fill up the kettle with clear water, and hang
+it over the fire when dinner is done, but not where there is a
+blaze. The fire under the kettle must be kept very moderate. The
+water must not boil, or be too hot to bear your hand in. Keep them
+over the fire in a slow heat till next morning. If they are not
+then of a fine green, repeat the process. When they are well
+greened, take them out of the kettle, drain them on a sieve, and
+put them into a clean stone jar. Boil for five or six minutes
+sufficient of the best vinegar to cover the cucumbers well;
+putting into the kettle a thin muslin bag filled with cloves,
+mace, and mustard seed. Pour the vinegar scalding hot into the jar
+of pickles, which should be secured with a large flat cork, and an
+oil-cloth or leather cover tied over it. Another way to green
+pickles is to cover them with vine leaves or cabbage leaves, and
+to keep them on a warm, hearth pouring boiling water on them five
+or six times a day; renewing the water as soon as it becomes cold.
+
+In proportioning the spice to the vinegar, allow to every two
+quarts, an ounce of mace, two dozen cloves, and two ounces of
+mustard seed. You may leave the muslin bag, with the spice, for
+about a week in the pickle jar to heighten the flavour, if you
+think it necessary.
+
+
+GREEN PEPPERS.
+
+May be done in the same manner as cucumbers, only extracting the
+seeds before you put the pickles into the salt and water. Do not
+put peppers into the same jar with cucumbers, as the former will
+destroy the latter.
+
+
+GHERKINS.
+
+The gherkin is a small thick oval-shaped species of cucumber with
+a hairy or prickly surface, and is cultivated solely for pickling.
+It is customary to let the stems remain on them. Wipe them dry,
+put them into a broad stone jar, and scald them five or six times
+in the course of the day with salt and water strong enough to bear
+an egg, and let them set all night. This will make them yellow.
+Next day, having drained them from the salt and water, throw it
+out, wipe them dry, put them into a clean vessel (with a little
+piece of alum,) and scald them with boiling vinegar and water,
+(half and half of each,) repeating it frequently during the day
+till they are green. Keep them as closely covered as possible.
+Then put them away in stone jars, mixing among them whole mace and
+sliced ginger to your taste. Fill up with cold vinegar, and add a
+little alum, allowing to every hundred gherkins a piece about the
+size of a shelled almond. The alum will make them firm and crisp.
+
+
+RADISH PODS.
+
+Gather sprigs or bunches of radish pods while they are young and
+tender, but let the pods remain on the sprigs; it not being the
+custom to pick them off. Put them into strong salt and water, and
+let them stand two days. Then drain and wipe them and put them
+into a clean stone jar. Boil an equal quantity of vinegar and
+water. Pour it over the radish pods while hot, and cover them
+closely to keep in the steam. Repeat this frequently through the
+day till they are very green. Then pour off the vinegar and water,
+and boil for five minutes some very strong vinegar, with a little
+bit of alum, and pour it over them. Put them into a stone jar,
+(and having added some whole mace, whole pepper, a little tumeric
+and a little sweet oil,) cork it closely, and tie over it a
+leather or oil-cloth.
+
+
+GREEN BEANS.
+
+Take young green or French beans; string them, but do not cut them
+in pieces. Pat them in salt and water for two days, stirring them
+frequently. Then put them into a kettle with vine or cabbage
+leaves under, over, and all round them, (adding a little piece of
+alum.) Cover them closely to keep in the steam, and let them hang
+over a slow fire till they are a fine green.
+
+Having drained them in a sieve, make for them a pickle of strong
+vinegar, and boil in it for five minutes, some mace, whole pepper,
+and sliced ginger tied up in a thin muslin bag. Pour it hot upon
+the beans, put them into a stone jar, and tie them up.
+
+
+PARSLEY.
+
+Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and
+throw into it a large quantity of curled parsley, tied up in
+little bunches with a thread. After it has stood a week (stirring
+it several times a day) take it out, drain it well, and lay it for
+three days in cold spring or pump-water, changing the water daily.
+Then scald it in hard water, and hang it, well covered, over a
+slow fire till it becomes green. Afterwards take it out, and drain
+and press it till quite dry.
+
+Boil for five minutes a quart of strong vinegar with a small bit
+of alum, a few blades of mace, a sliced nutmeg, and a few slips of
+horseradish. Pour it on the parsley, and put it away in a stone
+jar.
+
+
+MANGOES.
+
+Take very young oval shaped musk-melons. Cut a round piece out of
+the top or side of each, (saving the piece to put on again,) and
+extract the seeds. Then (having tied on the pieces with
+packthread) put them into strong salt and water for two days.
+Afterwards drain and wipe them, put them into a kettle with vine
+leaves or cabbage leaves under and over them, and a little piece
+of alum, and hang them on a slow fire to green; keeping them
+closely covered to retain the steam, which will greatly accelerate
+the greening. When they are quite green, have ready the stuffing,
+which must be a mixture of scraped horseradish, white mustard
+seed, mace and nutmeg pounded, race ginger cut small, pepper,
+tumeric and sweet oil. Fill your mangoes with this mixture,
+putting a small clove of garlic into each, and replacing the
+pieces at the openings; tie them with a packthread crossing
+backwards and forwards round the mango. Put them into stone jars,
+pour boiling vinegar over them, and cover them well. Before you
+put them on the table remove the packthread.
+
+
+NASTURTIANS.
+
+Have ready a stone or glass jar of the best cold vinegar. Take the
+green seeds of the nasturtian after the flower has gone off. They
+should be full-grown but not old. Pick off the stems, and put the
+seeds into the vinegar. No other preparation is necessary, and
+they will keep a year with nothing more than sufficient cold
+vinegar to cover them. With boiled mutton they are an excellent
+substitute for capers.
+
+
+MORELLA CHERRIES.
+
+See that all your cherries are perfect. Remove the stems, and put
+the cherries into a jar or glass with sufficient vinegar to cover
+them well. They will keep perfectly in a cool dry place.
+
+They are very good, always retaining the taste of the cherry. If
+you cannot procure morellas, the large red pie-cherries may be
+substituted.
+
+
+PEACHES.
+
+Take, fine large peaches (either cling or free stones) that are
+not too ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean flannel, and put the
+peaches whole into a stone jar. Cover them with cold vinegar of
+the best kind, in which you have dissolved a little of salt,
+allowing a table-spoonful to a quart of vinegar. Put a cork in the
+jar and tie leather or oil-cloth over it.
+
+Plums and grapes may be pickled thus in cold vinegar, but without
+salt.
+
+
+BARBERRIES.
+
+Have ready a jar of cold vinegar, and put into it ripe barberries
+in bunches. They make a pretty garnish for the edges of dishes.
+
+
+TO PICKLE GREEN PEPPERS.
+
+The bell pepper is the best for pickling, and should be gathered
+when quite young. Slit one side, and carefully take out the core,
+so as not to injure the shell of the pepper. Then put them into
+boiling salt and water, changing the water every day for one week,
+and keeping them closely covered in a warm place near the fire.
+Stir them several times a day. They will first become yellow, and
+then green. When they are a fine green put them into a jar, and
+pour cold vinegar over them, adding a small piece of alum.
+
+They require no spice.
+
+You may stuff the peppers as you do mangoes.
+
+
+TO PICKLE BUTTERNUTS.
+
+These nuts are in the best state for pickling when the shell is
+soft, and when they are so young that the outer skin can be
+penetrated by the head of a pin. They should be gathered when the
+sun is hot upon them.
+
+If you have a large quantity, the easiest way to prepare them for
+pickling is to put them into a tub with sufficient lye to cover
+them, and to stir and rub them about with a hickory broom, till
+they are clean and smooth on the outside. This is much less
+trouble than scraping them, and is not so likely to injure the
+nuts. Another method is to scald them, and then to rub off the
+outer skin. Put the nuts into strong salt and water for nine or
+ten days; changing the water every other day, and keeping them
+closely covered from the air. Then drain and wipe them, (piercing
+each nut through in several places with a large needle,) and
+prepare the pickle as follows:--For a hundred large nuts, take of
+black pepper and ginger root of each an ounce; and of cloves, mace
+and nutmeg of each a half ounce. Pound all the spices to powder,
+and mix them well together, adding two large spoonfuls of mustard
+seed. Put the nuts into jars, (having first stuck each of them
+through in several places with a large needle,) strewing the
+powdered seasoning between every layer of nuts. Boil for five
+minutes a gallon of the best white wine vinegar, and pour it
+boiling hot upon the nuts. Secure the jars closely with corks and
+leathers. You may begin to eat the nuts in a fortnight.
+
+Walnuts may be pickled in the same manner.
+
+
+TO PICKLE WALNUTS BLACK.
+
+The walnuts should he gathered while young and soft, (so that you
+can easily run a pin through them,) and when the sun is upon them.
+Rub them with a coarse flannel or tow cloth to get off the fur of
+the outside. Mix salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and
+let them lie in it nine days, (changing it every two days,) and
+stirring them, frequently. Then take them out, drain them, spread
+them on large dishes, and expose them to the air about ten
+minutes, which will cause them to blacken the sooner. Scald them
+in boiling water, (but do not let them lie in it,) and then rub
+them with a coarse woollen cloth, and pierce everyone through in
+several places with a large needle, (that the pickle may penetrate
+them thoroughly.) Put them into stone jars, and prepare the spice
+and vinegar. To a hundred walnuts allow a gallon of vinegar, an
+ounce of cloves, an ounce of allspice, an ounce of black pepper,
+half an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of nutmeg. Boil the spice
+in the vinegar for five or six minutes; then, strain the vinegar,
+and pour it boiling hot over the walnuts. Tie up in a thin muslin
+rag, a tea-cupful of mustard seed, and a large table-spoonful of
+scraped horseradish, and put it into the jars with the walnuts.
+Cover them closely with corks and leathers.
+
+Another way of pickling walnuts black, is (after preparing them as
+above) to put them into jars with the spices pounded and strewed
+among them, and then to pour over them strong cold vinegar.
+
+
+WALNUTS PICKLED WHITE.
+
+Take large young walnuts while their shells are quite soft so that
+you can stick the head of a pin into them. Pare them very thin
+till the white appears; and as you do them, throw them into spring
+or pump water in which some salt has been dissolved. Let them
+stand in that water six hours, with a thin board upon them to keep
+them down under the water. Fill a porcelain kettle with fresh
+spring water, and set it over a clear fire, or on a charcoal
+furnace. Put the walnuts into the kettle, cover it, and let them
+simmer (but not boil) for five or six minutes. Then have ready a
+vessel with cold spring water and salt, and put your nuts into it,
+taking them out of the kettle with a wooden ladle. Let them stand
+in the cold salt and water for a quarter of an hour, with the
+board keeping them down as before; for if they rise above the
+liquor, or are exposed to the air, they will be discoloured. Then
+take, them out, and lay them on a cloth covered with another, till
+they are quite dry. Afterwards rub them carefully with a soft
+flannel, and put them into a stone jar; laying among them blades
+of mace, and sliced nutmeg, but no dark-coloured spice. Pour over
+them the best distilled vinegar, and put on the top a
+table-spoonful of sweet oil.
+
+
+WALNUTS PICKLED GREEN.
+
+Gather them while the shells are very soft, and rub them all with
+a flannel. Then wrap them singly in vine leaves, lay a few vine
+leaves in the bottom of a large stone jar, put in the walnuts,
+(seeing that each of them is well wrapped up so as not to touch
+one another,) and cover them with a thick layer of leaves. Fill up
+the jar with strong vinegar, cover it closely, and let it stand
+three weeks. Then pour off the vinegar, take out the walnuts,
+renew all the vine leaves, fill up with fresh vinegar, and let
+them stand three weeks longer. Then again pour off the vinegar,
+and renew the vine leaves. This time take the best white wine
+vinegar; put salt in it till it will bear an egg, and add to it
+mace, sliced nutmeg, and scraped horseradish, in the proportion
+of an ounce of each and a gallon of vinegar to a hundred walnuts.
+Boil the spice and vinegar about eight minutes, and then pour it
+hot on the walnuts. Cover the jar closely with a cork and leather,
+and set it away, leaving the vine leaves with the walnuts. When
+you take any out for use, disturb the others as little as
+possible, and do not put back again any that may be left.
+
+You may pickle butternuts green in the same manner.
+
+
+TO PICKLE ONIONS.
+
+Take very small onions, and with a sharp knife cut off the stems
+as close as possible, and peel off the outer skin. Then put them
+into salt and water, and let them stand in the brine for six days;
+stirring them daily, and changing the salt and water every two
+days. See that they are closely covered. Then put the onions into
+jars, and give them a scald in boiling salt and water. Let them
+stand till they are cold; then drain them on a sieve, wipe them,
+stick a clove in the top of each and put them into wide-mouthed
+bottles; dispersing among them some blades of mace and slices of
+ginger or nutmeg. Fill up the bottles with the best white wine
+vinegar, and put at the top a large spoonful of salad oil. Cork
+the bottles well.
+
+
+ONIONS PICKLED WHITE.
+
+Peel some very small white onions, and lay them for three days in
+salt and water changing the water every day. Then wipe them, and
+put them into a porcelain kettle with equal quantities of milk and
+water, sufficient to cover them well. Simmer them over a slow
+fire, but when just ready to boil take them off, and drain and dry
+them, and put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles; interspersing
+them with blades of mace. Boil a sufficient quantity of distilled
+white wine vinegar to cover them and fill up the bottles, adding
+to it a little salt; and when it is cold, pour it into the bottles
+of onions. At the top of each bottle put a spoonful of sweet oil.
+Set them away closely corked.
+
+
+TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS WHITE.
+
+Take small fresh-gathered button mushrooms, peel them carefully
+with a penknife, and cut off the stems; throwing the mushrooms
+into salt and water as you do them. Then put them into a porcelain
+skillet of fresh water, cover it closely, and set it over a quick
+fire. Boil it as fast as possible for seven or eight minutes, not
+more. Take out the mushrooms, drain them, and spread them on a
+clean board, with the bottom or hollow side of each mushroom
+turned downwards. Do this as quickly as possible, and immediately,
+while they are hot, sprinkle them over with salt. When they are
+cold, put them into a glass jar with slight layers of mace and
+sliced ginger. Fill up the jar with cold distilled or white wine
+vinegar. Put a spoonful of sweet oil on the top of each jar, and
+cork it closely.
+
+
+MUSHROOMS PICKLED BROWN.
+
+Take a quart of large mushrooms and (having trimmed off the
+stalks) rub them with a flannel cloth dipped in salt. Then lay
+them in a pan of allegar or ale vinegar, for a quarter of an hour,
+and wash them about in it. Then pat them into a sauce-pan with a
+quart of allegar, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of
+allspice and whole pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Set the pan
+over coals, and let the mushrooms stew slowly for ten minutes,
+keeping the pan well covered. Then take them off, let them get
+cold by degrees, and put them into small bottles with the allegar
+strained from the spice and poured upon them.
+
+It will be prudent to boil an onion with the mushrooms, and if it
+turns black or blueish, you may infer that there is a poisonous
+one among them; and they should therefore be thrown away. Stir
+them for the same reason, with a silver spoon.
+
+
+TO PICKLE TOMATAS.
+
+Take a peck of tomatas, (the small round ones are best for
+pickling,) and prick every one with a fork. Put them into a broad
+stone or earthen vessel, and sprinkle salt between every layer of
+tomatas. Cover them, and let them remain three days in the salt.
+Then put them into vinegar and water mixed in equal quantities,
+half and half, and keep them in it twenty-four hours to draw out
+the saltness. There must be sufficient of the liquid to cover the
+tomatas well.
+
+To a peck of tomatas allow a bottle of mustard, half an ounce of
+cloves, and half an ounce of pepper, with a dozen onions sliced
+thin. Pack the tomatas in a stone jar, placing the spices and
+onions alternately with the layers of tomatas. Put them in till
+the jar is two-thirds fall. Then fill it up with strong cold
+vinegar, and stop it closely. The pickles will be fit to eat in a
+fortnight.
+
+If you do not like onions, substitute for them a larger quantity
+of spice.
+
+
+TOMATA SOY.
+
+For this purpose you must have the best and ripest tomatas, and
+they must be gathered on a dry day. Do not peel them, but merely
+cut them into slices. Having strewed some salt over the bottom of
+a tub, put in the tomatas in layers; sprinkling between each layer
+(which, should be about two inches in thickness) a half pint of
+salt. Repeat this till you have put in eight quarts or one peck of
+tomatas. Cover the tub and let it set for three days. Then early
+in the morning, put the tomatas into a large porcelain, kettle,
+and boil it slowly and steadily till ten at night, frequently
+mashing and stirring the tomatas. Then put it out to cool. Next
+morning strain and press it through a sieve, and when no more
+liquid will pass through, put it into a clean kettle with two
+ounces of cloves, one ounce of mace, two ounces of blade pepper,
+and two table-spoonfuls of cayenne, all powdered.
+
+Again let it boil slowly and steadily all day, and put it to cool
+in the evening in a large pan. Cover it, and let it set all night.
+Next day put it into small bottles, securing the corks by dipping
+them in melted rosin, and tying leathers over them.
+
+If made exactly according to these directions, and slowly and
+thoroughly boiled, it will keep for years in a cool dry place, and
+may be used for many purposes when fresh tomatas are not to be
+had.
+
+
+TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS.
+
+Take the whitest and closest full-grown cauliflowers; cut off the
+thick stalk, and split the blossom or flower part into eight or
+ten pieces. Spread them oh a large dish, sprinkle them with salt,
+and let them stand twenty-four hours. Then wash off the salt,
+drain them, put them into a broad flat jar or pan, scald them with
+salt and water, (allowing a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart
+of water,) cover them closely and let them stand in the brine till
+next day. Afterwards drain them in a hair sieve, and spread them
+on a cloth in a warm place to dry for a day and a night. Then put
+them carefully, piece by piece, into clean broad jars and pour
+over them a pickle which has been prepared as follows:--Mix
+together three ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of turmeric,
+one ounce of mustard seed, and one ounce of ginger. Pound the
+whole in a mortar to a fine powder. Put it into three quarts of
+the best white wine vinegar, set it by the side of the fire in a
+stone jar, and let it infuse three days. These are the
+proportions, but the quantity of the whole pickle must depend on
+the quantity of cauliflower, which must he kept well covered by
+the liquid. Pour it over the cauliflower, and secure the jars
+closely from the air.
+
+You may pickle brocoli in the same manner. Also the green tops of
+asparagus.
+
+
+TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.
+
+Take a fine firm cabbage of a deep red or purple colour. Strip off
+the outer leaves, and cut out the stalk. Quarter the cabbage
+lengthways, and then slice it crossways. Lay it in a deep dish,
+sprinkle a handful of salt over it, cover it with another dish,
+and let it lie twenty-four hours. Then drain it in a cullender
+from the salt, and wipe it dry. Make a pickle of sufficient white
+wine vinegar to cover the cabbage well, adding to it equal
+quantities of cloves and allspice, with some mace. The spices must
+be put in whole, with a little cochineal to give it a good red
+colour. Boil the vinegar and spices hard for five minutes, and
+having put the cabbage into a stone jar, pour the vinegar over it
+boiling hot. Cover the jar with a cloth till it gets cold; and
+then put in a large cork, and tie a leather over it.
+
+
+COLD SLAW. [Footnote: This receipt was accidentally omitted in its
+proper place.]
+
+Take a nice fresh cabbage, wash and drain it, and cut off all the
+stalk. Shave down the head into very small slips, with a cabbage
+cutter, or a very sharp knife. It must be done evenly and nicely.
+Put it into a deep china dish, and prepare for it the following
+dressing. Melt in a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with
+half a pint of water, a large table-spoonful of vinegar, a salt-spoon
+of salt, and a little cayenne. Give this a boil up, and pour
+it hot upon the cabbage.
+
+Send it to table as soon as it is cold.
+
+
+WARM SLAW.
+
+Cut the cabbage into shavings as for cold slaw; (red cabbage is
+best;) and put it into a deep earthen dish. Cover it closely, and
+set it on the top of a stove, or in a slack oven for half an hour
+till it is warm all through; but do not let it get so heated as to
+boil. Then make a mixture as for cold slaw, of a quarter of a
+pound of butter, half a pint of water, a little salt and cayenne,
+and add to it a clove of garlic minced fine. Boil this mixture in
+a sauce-pan, and pour it hot over the warm cabbage. Send it to
+table immediately.
+
+This is a French method of dressing cabbage.
+
+
+EAST INDIA PICKLE.
+
+This is a mixture of various things pickled together, and put into
+the same jar.
+
+Have ready a small white cabbage, sliced, and the stalk removed; a
+cauliflower cut into neat branches, leaving out the large stalk;
+sliced cucumbers; sliced carrots; sliced beets, (all nicked round
+the edges;) button-onions; string-beans; radish pods; barberries;
+cherries; green grapes; nasturtians; capsicums; bell-peppers, &c.
+Sprinkle all these things with salt, put them promiscuously into a
+large earthen pan, and pour scalding salt and water over them. Let
+them lie in the brine for four days, turning them all over every
+day. Then take them out, wash each thing separately in vinegar,
+and wipe them carefully in a cloth. Afterwards lay them on sieves
+before the fire and dry them thoroughly.
+
+For the pickle liquor.--To every two quarts of the best vinegar,
+put an ounce and a half of white ginger root, scraped and sliced;
+the same of long pepper; two ounces of peeled shalots, or little
+button-onions, cut in pieces; half an ounce of peeled garlic; an
+ounce of-turmeric; and two ounces of mustard seed bruised, or of
+mustard powder. Let all these ingredients, mixed with the vinegar,
+infuse in a close jar for a week, setting in a warm place, or by
+the fire. Then (after the vegetables have been properly prepared,
+and dried from the brine) put them all into one large stone jar,
+or into smaller jars, and strain the pickle over them. The liquid
+must be in a large quantity, so as to keep the vegetables well
+covered with it, or they will spoil. Put a table-spoonful of sweet
+oil on the top of each jar, and secure them well with a large cork
+and a leather.
+
+If you find that after awhile the vegetables have absorbed the
+liquor, so that there is danger of their not having a sufficiency,
+prepare some more seasoned vinegar and pour it over them.
+
+East India pickle is very convenient, and will keep two years. As
+different vegetables come into season, you can prepare them with
+the salt and water process, and add them to the things already in
+the jar. You may put small mangoes into this pickle; also plums,
+peaches and apricots.
+
+
+TO PICKLE OYSTERS FOR KEEPING.
+
+For this purpose take none but the finest and largest oysters.
+After they are opened, separate them from their liquor, and put
+them into a bucket or a large pan, and pour boiling water upon
+them to take out the slime. Stir them about in it, and then take
+them out, and rinse them well in cold water. Then put them into a
+large kettle with fresh water, barely enough to cover them,
+(mixing with it a table-spoonful of salt to every hundred
+oysters,) and give them a boil up, just sufficient to plump them.
+Take them, out, spread them on large dishes or on a clean table,
+and cover them with a cloth. Take the liquor of the oysters, and
+with every pint of it mix a quart of the best vinegar, a table-spoonful
+of salt, a table-spoonful of whole cloves, the same of
+whole black pepper, and a tea-spoonful of whole mace. Put the
+liquid over the fire in a kettle, and when it boils throw in the
+oysters, and let them remain in it five minutes. Then take the
+whole off the fire, stir it up well, and let it stand to get quite
+cold. Afterwards (if you have a large quantity) put it into a keg,
+which must first be well scalded, (a new keg is best,) and fill it
+as full as it can hold. Do not put a weight on the oysters to keep
+them down in the liquor, as it will crush them to pieces if the
+keg should be moved or conveyed to a distance. If you have not
+enough to fill a keg, put them into stone jars when they are
+perfectly cold, and cover them securely.
+
+
+
+
+SWEETMEATS.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+The introduction of iron ware lined with porcelain has fortunately
+almost superseded the use of brass or bell-metal kettles for
+boiling sweetmeats; a practice by which the articles prepared in
+those pernicious utensils were always more or less imbued with the
+deleterious qualities of the verdigris that is produced in them by
+the action of acids.
+
+Charcoal furnaces will be found very convenient for preserving;
+the kettles being set on the top. They can be used in the open
+air. Sweetmeats should be boiled rather quickly, that the watery
+particles may exhale at once, without being subjected to so long a
+process as to spoil the colour and diminish the flavour of the
+fruit. But on the other hand, if boiled too short a time they will
+not keep so well.
+
+If you wish your sweetmeats to look bright and clear, use only the
+very best loaf-sugar. Fruit may be preserved for family use and
+for common purposes, in sugar of inferior quality, but it will
+never have a good appearance, and it is also more liable to spoil.
+
+If too small a proportion of sugar is allowed to the fruit, it
+will _certainly_ not keep well. When this experiment is tried
+it is generally found to be false economy; as sweetmeats, when
+they begin to spoil, can only be recovered and made eatable by
+boiling them over again with additional sugar; and even then, they
+are never so good as if done properly at first. If jellies have
+not sufficient sugar, they do not congeal, but will remain liquid.
+
+Jelly bags should be made of white flannel. It is well to have a
+wooden stand or frame like a towel horse, to which the bag can be
+tied while it is dripping. The bag should first be dipped in hot
+water, for if dry it will absorb too much of the juice. After the
+liquor is all in, close the top of the bag, that none of the
+flavour may evaporate.
+
+In putting away sweetmeats, it is best to place them in small
+jars, as the more frequently they are exposed to the air by
+opening the more danger there is of their spoiling. The best
+vessels for this purpose are white queen's-ware pots, or glass
+jars. For jellies, jams, and for small fruit, common glass
+tumblers are very convenient, and may be covered simply with
+double tissue-paper, cut exactly to fit the inside of the top of
+the glass, laid lightly on the sweetmeat, and pressed down all
+round with the finger. This covering, if closely and nicely
+fitted, will be found to keep them perfectly well, and as it
+adheres so closely as to form a complete coat over the top, it is
+better for jellies or jams than writing-paper dipped in brandy,
+which is always somewhat shrivelled by the liquor with which it
+has been saturated.
+
+If you find that your sweetmeats have become dry and candied, you
+may liquefy them again by setting the jars in water and making it
+boil round them.
+
+In preserving fruit whole, it is best to put it first in a thin
+syrup. If boiled in a thick syrup at the beginning, the juice will
+be drawn out so as to shrink the fruit.
+
+It is better to boil it but a short time at once, and then to take
+it out and let it get cold, afterwards returning it to the syrup,
+than to keep it boiling; too long at a time, which will cause it
+to break and lose its shape.
+
+Preserving kettles should be rather broad than deep, for the fruit
+cannot be done equally if it is too much heaped. They should all
+have covers belonging to them, to put on after the scum has done
+rising that the flavour of the fruit may be kept in with the
+steam.
+
+A perforated skimmer pierced all through with holes is a very
+necessary utensil in making sweetmeats.
+
+The water used for melting the sugar should be very clear; spring
+or pump water is best, but if you are obliged to use river water,
+let it first be filtered. Any turbidness or impurity in the water
+will injure the clearness of the sweetmeats.
+
+If sweetmeats ferment in the jars, boil them over again with
+additional sugar.
+
+
+CLARIFIED SUGAR SYRUP.
+
+Take eight pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar, and break
+it up or powder it. Have ready the whites of two eggs, beaten to a
+strong froth. Stir the white of egg gradually into two quarts of
+very clear spring or pump water. Put the sugar into a porcelain
+kettle, and mix with it the water and white of egg. While the
+sugar is melting, stir it frequently; and when it is entirely
+dissolved, put the kettle over a moderate fire, and let it boil,
+carefully taking off the scum as it comes to the top, and pouring
+in a little cold water when you find the syrup rising so as to run
+over the edge of the kettle. It will be well when it first boils
+hard to pour in half a pint of cold water to keep down the bubbles
+so that the scum may appear, and be easily removed. You must not
+however boil it to candy height, so that the bubbles will look
+like hard pearls, and the syrup will harden in the spoon and hang
+from it in strings; for though very thick and clear it must
+continue liquid. When it is done, let it stand till it gets quite
+cold; and if you do not want it for immediate use, put it into
+bottles and seal the corks.
+
+When you wish to use this syrup for preserving, you have only to
+put the fruit into it, and boil it till tender and clear, but not
+till it breaks. Large fruit that is done whole, should first be
+boiled tender in a very thin syrup that it may not shrink. Small
+fruit, such as raspberries, strawberries, grapes, currants,
+gooseberries, &c. may, if perfectly ripe, be put raw into strong
+cold sugar syrup; they will thus retain their form and colour, and
+then freshness and natural taste. They must be put into small
+glass jars, and kept well covered with the syrup. This, however,
+is an experiment which sometimes fails, and had best be tried on a
+scale, or only for immediate use.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE GINGER.
+
+Take root of green ginger, and pare it neatly with a sharp knife,
+throwing it into a pan of cold water as you pare it. Then boil it
+till tender all through, changing the water three times. Each time
+put on the ginger is quite cold water to lake out the excessive
+heat. When it is perfectly tender, throw it again into a pan of
+cold water, and let it lie an hour or more; this will make it
+crisp. In the mean time prepare the syrup. For every six pounds of
+ginger root, clarify seven pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar.
+Break up the sugar, put it into a preserving kettle, and
+melt it in spring or pump water, (into which you have stirred
+gradually the beaten white of two eggs,) allowing a pint of water
+to each pound of sugar. Boil and skim it well. Then let the syrup
+stand till it is cold; and having drained the ginger, pour the
+syrup over it, cover it, and do not disturb it for two days. Then,
+having poured it from the ginger, boil the syrup over again. As
+soon as it is cold, pour it again on the ginger, and let it stand
+at least three days. Afterwards boil the syrup again, and pour it
+_hot_ over the ginger. Proceed in this manner till you find
+that the syrup has thoroughly penetrated the ginger, (which you
+may ascertain by its taste and appearance when you cut a piece
+off,) and till the syrup becomes very thick and rich. Then put it
+all into jars, and cover it closely.
+
+If you put the syrup hot to the ginger at first, it will shrink
+and shrivel. After the first time, you have only to boil and
+reboil the syrup; as it is not probable that it will require any
+further clarifying if carefully skimmed. It will be greatly
+improved by adding some lemon-juice at the close of the last
+boiling.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE CITRONS.
+
+Pare off the outer skin of some fine citrons, and cut them into
+quarters. Take out the middle. You may divide each quarter into
+several pieces. Lay them for four or five hours in salt and water.
+Take them out, and then soak them in spring or pump water
+(changing it frequently) till all the saltness is extracted, and
+till the last water tastes perfectly fresh. Boil a small lump of
+alum, and scald them in the alum-water. It must be very weak, or
+it will communicate an unpleasant taste to the citrons; a lump the
+size of a hickory nut will suffice for six pounds. Afterwards
+simmer them two hours with layers of green vine leaves. Then make
+a syrup, allowing a pint of water to each pound of loaf-sugar;
+boil and skim it well. When it is quite clear, put in the citrons,
+and boil them slowly, till they are so soft that a straw will
+pierce through them without breaking. Afterwards put them into a
+large dish, and set them in the sun to harden.
+
+Prepare some lemons, by paring off the yellow rind very thin, and
+cutting it into slips of uniform size and shape. Lay the lemon-rind
+in scalding water, to extract the bitterness. Then take the
+pared lemons, cut them into quarters, measure a half pint of water
+to each lemon, and boil them to a mash. Strain the boiled lemon
+through a sieve, and to each pint of liquid allow a pound of the
+best double-refined loaf-sugar, for the second syrup. Melt the
+sugar in the liquid, and stir into it gradually some beaten white
+of egg; allowing one white to four pounds of sugar. Then set it
+over the fire; put the lemon-peel into the syrup, and let it boil
+in it till quite soft. Put the citrons cold into a glass jar, and
+pour the hot syrup over them. Let the lemon remain with the
+citrons, as it will improve their flavour.
+
+If you wish the citrons to be candied, boil down the second syrup
+to candy height, (that is, till it hangs in strings from the
+spoon,) and pour it over the citrons. Keep them well covered. You
+may, if you choose, after you take the citrons from the alum-water,
+give them a boil in very weak ginger tea, made of the roots
+of green ginger if you can procure it; if not, of race ginger.
+Powdered ginger will not do at all. This ginger tea will
+completely eradicate any remaining taste of the salt or the alum.
+Afterwards cover the sides and bottom of the pan with vine leaves,
+put a layer of leaves between each layer of citron, and cover the
+top with leaves. Simmer the citrons in this two hours to green
+them.
+
+In the same manner you may preserve water-melon rind, or the rind
+of cantelopes. Cut these rinds into stars, diamonds, crescents,
+circles, or into any fanciful shape you choose. Be sure to pare
+off the outside skin before you put the rinds into the salt and
+water.
+
+Pumpkin cut into slips, may be preserved according to the above
+receipt.
+
+
+CANTELOPES OR MUSK-MELONS.
+
+Take very small cantelopes before they are ripe. Shave a thin
+paring off the whole outside. Cut out a small piece or plug about
+an inch square, and through it extract all the seeds, &c. from the
+middle. Then, return the plugs to the hole from whence you took
+them, and secure them with a needle and thread, or by tying a
+small string round the cantelope.
+
+Lay the cantelopes for four or five hours in salt and water. Then
+put them into spring water to extract the salt, changing the water
+till you find it salt no longer. Scald them in weak alum-water.
+Make a syrup in the proportion of a pint of water to a pound of
+loaf-sugar, and boil the cantelopes in it till a straw will go
+through them. Then take them out, and set them in the sun to
+harden.
+
+Prepare some fine ripe oranges, paring off the yellow rind very
+thin, and cutting it into slips, and then laying it in scalding
+water to extract the bitterness. Cut the oranges into pieces;
+allow a pint of water to each orange, and boil them to a pulp.
+Afterwards strain them, and allow to each pint of the liquid, a
+pound of the best loaf-sugar, and stir in a little beaten white of
+egg; one white to four pounds of sugar. This is for the second
+syrup. Boil the peel in it, skimming it well. When the peel is
+soft, take it all out; for if left among the cantelopes, it will
+communicate to it too strong a taste of the orange.
+
+Put the cantelopes into your jars, and pour over them the hot
+syrup. Cover them closely, and keep them in a dry cool place.
+
+Large cantelopes may be prepared for preserving (after you have
+taken off the outer rind) by cutting them into pieces according to
+the natural divisions with which they are fluted. This receipt for
+preserving cantelopes whole, will do very well for green lemons or
+limes, substituting lemon-peel and lemon-juice for that of oranges
+in the second syrup.
+
+You may use some of the first syrup to boil up the pulp of the
+orange or lemons that has been left. It will make a sort of
+marmalade, that is very good for colds.
+
+
+PRESERVED WATER-MELON RIND.
+
+Having pared off the green skin, cut the rind of a water-melon
+into pieces of any shape you please; stars, diamonds, circles,
+crescents or leaves, using for the purpose a sharp penknife. Weigh
+the pieces, and allow to each pound a pound and a halt of loaf
+sugar. Set the sugar aside, and put the pieces of melon-rind into
+a preserving kettle, the bottom and sides of which you, have lined
+with green vine leaves. Put a layer of vine leaves between each,
+layer of melon-rind, and cover the top with leaves. Disperse among
+the pieces some very small bits of alum, each about the bigness of
+a grain of corn, and allowing one bit to every pound of the melon-rind.
+Pour in just water enough to cover the whole, and place a
+thick double cloth (or some other covering) over the top of the
+kettle to keep in the steam, which will improve the greening. Let
+it simmer (but not boil) for two hours. Then take out the pieces
+of melon-rind and spread them on dishes to cool. Afterwards if you
+find that they taste of the alum, simmer them in very weak ginger
+tea for about three hours. Then proceed to make your syrup. Melt
+the sugar in clear spring or pump water, allowing a pint of water
+to a pound and a half of sugar, and mixing in with it some white
+of egg beaten to a stiff froth. The white of one egg will be
+enough for four pounds of sugar. Boil and skim it; and when the
+scum ceases to rise, put in the melon-rind, and let it simmer an
+hour. Take it out and spread it to cool on dishes return it to the
+syrup, and simmer it another hour. After this take it out, and put
+it into a tureen. Boil up the syrup again, and pour it over the
+melon-rind. Cover it, and let it stand all night. Next morning
+give the syrup another boil; adding to It some lemon-juice,
+allowing the juice of one lemon to a quart of the syrup. When you
+find it so thick as to hang in a drop on the point of the spoon,
+it is sufficiently done. Then put the rind into glass jars, pour
+in the syrup, and secure the sweetmeats closely from the air with
+paper dipped in brandy, and a leather outer cover.
+
+This, if carefully done and well greened, is a very nice
+sweetmeat, and may be used to ornament the top of creams, jellies,
+jams, &c. laying it round in rings or wreaths.
+
+Citrons may be preserved green in the same manner, first paring
+off the outer skin and cutting them into quarters. Also green
+limes.
+
+
+PRESERVED PEPPERS.
+
+For this purpose take the small round peppers while they are
+green. With a sharp penknife extract the seeds and cores; and then
+put the outsides into a kettle with vine leaves, and a little alum
+to give them firmness, and assist in keeping them green. Proceed
+precisely as directed for the water-melon rind, in the above
+receipt.
+
+
+PUMPKIN CHIPS.
+
+It is best to defer making this sweetmeat (which will be found
+very fine) till late in the season when lemons are ripe and are to
+be had in plenty. Pumpkins (as they keep well) can generally be
+procured at any time through the winter.
+
+Take a fine pumpkin, of a rich deep colour, pare off the outer
+rind; remove the seeds; and having sliced the best part, cut it
+into chips of equal size, and about as thick as a half dollar.
+They should be in long narrow pieces, two inches in breadth, and
+six in length. It is best to prepare the pumpkin the day before;
+and having weighed the chips, allow to each pound of them a pound
+of the best loaf-sugar. You must have several dozen of fine ripe
+lemons, sufficient to furnish a jill of lemon-juice to each pound
+of pumpkin. Having rolled them under your hand on a table, to make
+them yield as much juice as possible, pare off the yellow rind and
+put it away for some other purpose. Then having cut the lemons,
+squeeze out all the juice into a pitcher. Lay the pumpkin chips in
+a large pan or tureen, strewing the sugar among them. Then having
+measured the lemon-juice in a wine-glass, (two common wine-glasses
+making one jill,) pour it over the pumpkin and sugar, cover the
+vessel, and let it stand all night.
+
+Next day transfer the pumpkin, sugar, and lemon-juice to n
+preserving kettle, and boil it slowly three quarters of an hour,
+or till the pumpkin becomes all through tender, crisp, and
+transparent; but it must not be over the fire long enough to break
+and lose its form. You must skim it thoroughly. Some very small
+pieces of the lemon-paring may be boiled with it. When you think
+it is done, take up the pumpkin chips in a perforated skimmer that
+the syrup may drain through the holes back into the kettle. Spread
+the chips to cool on large dishes, and pass the syrup through a
+flannel bag that has been first dipped in hot water. When the
+chips are cold, put them into glass jars or tumblers, pour in the
+syrup, and lay on the top white paper dipped in brandy. Then tie
+up the jars with leather, or with covers of thick white paper.
+
+If you find that when cold the chips are not perfectly clear,
+crisp, and tender, give them another boil in the syrup before you
+put them up.
+
+This, if well made, is a handsome and excellent sweetmeat It need
+not be eaten with cream, the syrup being so delicious as to
+require nothing to improve it. Shells of puff-paste first baked
+empty, and then filled with, pumpkin chips, will be found very
+nice.
+
+Musk-melon chips may be done in the same manner.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE PINE-APPLES.
+
+Take fine large pine-apples; pare them, and cut off a small round
+piece from the bottom, of each; let the freshest and best of the
+top leaves remain on. Have ready on a slow fire, a large
+preserving kettle with a thin syrup barely sufficient to cover the
+fruit. In making this syrup allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar to
+every quart of water, and half the white of a beaten egg; all to
+be mixed before it goes on the fire. Then boil and skim it, and
+when the scum ceases to rise, put in the pine-apples, and simmer
+them slowly an hour. Then take them out to cool, cover them
+carefully and pat them away till next day; saving the syrup in
+another vessel. Next day, put them into the same syrup, and simmer
+them again an hour. On the third day, repeat the process. The
+fourth day, make a strong fresh syrup, allowing but a pint of
+water to each pound of sugar, and to every three pounds the beaten
+white of one egg. When this syrup has boiled, and is completely
+skimmed, put in the pine-apples, and simmer them half an hour.
+Then take them out to cool, and set them aside till next morning.
+Boil them again, half an hour in the same syrup, and repeat this
+for seven or eight days, or till you can pierce through the pine-apple
+with a straw from a corn-broom. At the last of these
+boilings enrich the syrup by allowing to each pound of sugar a
+quarter of a pound more; and, having boiled and skimmed it, put in
+the pine apples for half an hour. Then take them out, and when
+quite cold put each into a separate glass jar, and fill up with
+the syrup.
+
+Pine apples may be preserved in slices by a very simple process.
+Pare them, and out them into round pieces near an inch thick, and
+take out the core from the centre of each slice. Allow a pound of
+loaf-sugar to every pound of the sliced pine-apple. Powder the
+sugar, and strew it in layers between the slices of pine-apple.
+Cover it and let it set all night. Next morning measure some clear
+spring or pump water, allowing half a pint to each pound of sugar.
+Beat some white of egg, (one white to four pounds of sugar,) and
+when it is a very stiff froth, stir it gradually into the water.
+Then mix with it the pine-apple and sugar, and put the whole into
+a preserving kettle. Boil and skim it well, till the pine-apple is
+tender and bright all through. Then take it out, and when cold,
+put it up in wide-mouthed glass jars, or in large tumblers.
+
+
+TO PREPARE FRESH PINE-APPLES.
+
+Cut off the top and bottom and pare off the rind. Then cut the
+pine-apples in round slices half an inch thick, and put them into
+a deep dish, sprinkling every slice with powdered loaf-sugar.
+Cover them, and let them lie in the sugar for an hour or two,
+before they are to be eaten.
+
+
+PRESERVED LEMONS.
+
+Take large fine ripe lemons, that have no blemishes. Choose those
+with thin, smooth rinds. With a sharp, knife scoop a hole in the
+stalk end of each, large enough to admit the handle of a tea-spoon.
+This hole is to enable the syrup to penetrate the inside of
+the lemons. Put them into a preserving kettle with clear water,
+and boil them gently till you find them tender, keeping the kettle
+uncovered. Then take them oat, drain, and cool them, and put them
+into a small tub. Prepare a thin syrup of a pound of loaf-sugar to
+a quart of water. When you have boiled and skimmed it, pour it
+over the lemons and cover them. Let them stand in the syrup till
+next day. Then poor the syrup from the lemons, and spread them on
+a large dish. Boil it a quarter of an hour, and pour it over them
+again, having first returned them to the tub. Cover them, and let
+them again stand till next day, when you must again boil the syrup
+and pour it over them. Repeat this process every day till you find
+that the lemons are quite clear, and that the syrup has penetrated
+them thoroughly. If you find the syrup becoming too weak, add a
+little more sugar to it. Finally, make a strong syrup in the
+proportion of half a pint of water to a pound of sugar, adding a
+jill of raw lemon-juice squeezed from fresh lemons, and allowing
+to every four pounds of sugar the beaten white of an egg. Mix all
+well together in the kettle. Boil and skim it, and when the scum
+ceases to rise, pour the syrup boiling hot over the lemons; and
+covering them closely, let them stand undisturbed for four days.
+Then look at them, and if you find that they have not sucked in
+enough of the syrup to make the inside very sweet, boil them
+gently in the syrup for a quarter of an hour. When they are cold,
+put them up in glass jars.
+
+You may green lemons by burying them in a kettle of vine leaves
+when you give them the first boiling in the clear water.
+
+Limes may be preserved by this receipt; also oranges.
+
+To prepare fresh oranges for eating, peel and cut them in round
+slices and remove the seeds. Strew powdered loaf-sugar over them.
+Cover them and let them stand an hour before they are eaten.
+
+
+ORANGE MARMALADE.
+
+Take fine large ripe oranges, with thin deep-coloured skins. Weigh
+them, and allow to each pound of oranges a pound of loaf-sugar.
+Pare off the yellow outside of the rind from half the oranges as
+thin as possible; and putting it into a pan with plenty of cold
+water, cover it closely (placing a double cloth beneath the tin
+cover) to keep in the steam, and boil it slowly till it is so soft
+that the head of a pin will pierce it. In the mean time grate the
+rind from the remaining oranges, and put it aside; quarter the
+oranges, and take out all the pulp and the juice; removing the
+seeds and core. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, with a
+half pint of clear water to each pound, and mix it with some
+beaten white of egg, allowing one white of egg, to every four
+pounds of sugar. When the sugar is all dissolved, put it on the
+fire, and boil and skim it till it is quite clear and thick. Next
+take the boiled parings, and cut them into very small pieces, not
+more than, half an inch long; put them into the sugar, and boil
+them in it ten minutes. Then put in the pulp and juice of the
+oranges, and the grated rind, (which will much improve the
+colour,) and boil all together for about twenty minutes, till it
+is a transparent mass. When cold, pot it up in glass jars, laying
+brandy paper on the top.
+
+Lemon marmalade may be made in a similar manner, but you must
+allow a pound and a half of sugar to each pound of lemons.
+
+
+ORANGE JELLY.
+
+Take fourteen large ripe oranges, and grate the yellow rind from
+seven of them. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in as much warm
+water as will cover it. Mix the juice with a pound of loaf-sugar
+broken up, and add the grated, rind and the isinglass. Put it into
+a porcelain pan over hot coals and stir it till it boils. Then,
+skim it well. Boil it ten minutes, and strain it (but do not
+squeeze it) through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear. Put it
+into a mould to congeal, and when you want to turn it out dip the
+mould into lukewarm water. Or you may put it into glasses at
+once.
+
+You must have a pint of juice to a pound of sugar.
+
+A few grains of saffron boiled with the jelly will improve the
+colour without affecting the taste.
+
+
+PRESERVED PEACHES.
+
+Take large juicy ripe peaches; free-stones are the best, as they
+have a finer flavour than the cling-stones, and are much more
+manageable both to preserve, and to eat. Pare them, and cut them
+in half, or in quarters, leaving out the stones, the half of which
+you must save. To every pound of the peaches allow a pound of
+loaf-sugar. Powder the sugar, and strew it among your peaches.
+Cover them and let them stand all night. Crack half the peach-stones,
+break them up, put them into a small sauce-pan and boil
+them slowly in as much water as will cover them. Then when the
+water is well flavoured with the peach-kernels, strain them out,
+and set the water aside. Take care not to use too much of the
+kernel-water; a very little will suffice. Put the peaches into a
+preserving kettle, and boil them in their juice over a quick fire;
+(adding the kernel-water,) and skimming them all the time. When
+they are quite clear, which should be in half an hour, take them
+off, and put them into a tureen. Boil the syrup five minutes
+longer, and pour it hot over the peaches. When they are cool, put
+them into glass jars, and tie them up with paper dipped in brandy
+laid next to them.
+
+Apricots, nectarines, and large plums maybe preserved in the same
+manner.
+
+
+PEACHES FOR COMMON USE.
+
+Take ripe free-stone peaches; pare, stone, and quarter them. To
+six pounds of the cut peaches allow three pounds of the best brown
+sugar. Strew the sugar among the peaches, and set them away. Next
+morning add a handful of peach leaves, put the whole into a
+preserving kettle, and boil it slowly about an hour and three
+quarters, or two hours, skimming it well. When cold, put it up in
+jars and keep it for pies, or for any common purpose.
+
+
+BRANDY PEACHES.
+
+Take large white or yellow free-stone peaches, the finest you can
+procure. They must not be too ripe. Rub off the down with a
+flannel, score them down the seam with a large needle, and prick
+every peach to the stone in several places. Scald them with
+boiling water, and let them remain in the water till it becomes
+cold, keeping them well covered. Repeat the scalding three times:
+it is to make them white. Then wipe them, and spread them on a
+soft table-cloth, covering them over with several folds. Let them
+remain in the cloth to dry. Afterwards put them into a tureen, or
+a large jar, and pour on as much white French brandy as will cover
+them well. Carefully keep the air from them, and let them remain
+in the brandy for a week. Then make a syrup in the usual manner,
+allowing to each pound of peaches a pound of loaf-sugar and half a
+pint of water mixed with a very little beaten white of egg; one
+white to three or four pounds of sugar.
+
+When the syrup has boiled, and been well skimmed, put in the
+peaches and boil them slowly till they look clear; but do not keep
+them boiling more than half an hour. Then take them out, drain
+them, and put them into large glass jars. Mix the syrup, when it
+is cold, with the brandy in which you had the peaches, and pour it
+over them. Instead of scalding the peaches to whiten them, you may
+lay them for an hour in sufficient cold weak lye to cover them
+well. Turn them frequently while in the lye, and wipe them dry
+afterwards.
+
+Pears and apricots may be preserved in brandy, according to the
+above receipt. The skin of the pears should he taken off, but the
+stems left on.
+
+Large egg plums may be preserved in the same manner.
+
+Another way of preparing brandy peaches is, after rubbing off the
+down and pricking them, to put them into a preserving kettle with
+cold water, and simmer them slowly till they become hot all
+through; but they must not be allowed to boil. Then dry them in a
+cloth, and let them lie till they are cold, covering them closely
+from the air. Dissolve loaf-sugar in the best white brandy, (a
+pound of sugar to a quart of brandy,) and having put the peaches
+into large glass jars, pour the brandy and sugar over them
+(without boiling) and cover the jars well with leather.
+
+Pears, apricots, and egg plums may also be done in this manner.
+
+
+PEACH MARMALADE.
+
+Take ripe yellow free-stone peaches; pare, stone, and quarter
+them. To each pound of peaches, allow three quarters of a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar, and half an ounce of bitter almonds, or
+peach-kernels blanched in scalding water, and pounded smooth in a
+mortar. Scald the peaches in a very little water, mash them to a
+pulp, mix them with the sugar and pounded-almonds, and put the
+whole into a preserving kettle. Let it boil to a smooth thick jam,
+skimming and stirring it well, and keeping the pan covered as much
+as possible. Fifteen minutes will generally suffice for boiling
+it. When cold, put it up in glass jars.
+
+Plum marmalade may be made in this manner, flavouring it with
+pounded plum-kernels.
+
+
+PEACH JELLY.
+
+Take fine juicy free-stone peaches and pare and quarter them.
+Scald them in a very little water, drain and mash them, and
+squeeze the juice through a jelly-bag. To every pint of juice
+allow a pound of loaf-sugar, and a few of the peach-kernels.
+Having broken up the kernels and boiled them by themselves for a
+quarter of an hour in just as much water as will cover them,
+strain off the kernel-water, and add it to the juice. Mix the
+juice with the sugar, and when it is melted, boil them together
+fifteen minutes, till it becomes a thick jelly. Skim it well when
+it boils. Try the jelly by taking a little in a spoon and holding
+it in the open air to see if it congeals. If you find, that after
+sufficient boiling, it still continues thin, you can make it
+congeal by stirring in an ounce or more of isinglass, dissolved
+and strained. When the jelly is done, put it into tumblers, and
+lay on the top double tissue paper cut exactly to fit the inside
+of the glass; pressing it down with your fingers.
+
+You may make plum jelly in the same manner, allowing a pound and a
+half of sugar to a pint of juice.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE APRICOTS.
+
+Take ripe apricots; scald them, peel them, cut them in half, and
+extract the stones. Then weigh the apricots, and to each pound
+allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put them into a tureen or large pan,
+in alternate layers of apricots and sugar; cover them, and let
+them stand all night. Next morning put all together into a
+preserving kettle, and boil them moderately a quarter of an hour.
+Then take them out, spread them on dishes, and let them stand till
+next day. Then boil them again in the same syrup another quarter
+of an hour. Afterwards, spread them out to cool, put them into
+glass jars, and pour the syrup over them. Peaches may be preserved
+in the same manner. Also large plums or green gages; but to the
+plums you must allow additional sugar.
+
+
+TO DRY PEACHES.
+
+The best peaches for drying are juicy free-stones. They must be
+quite ripe. Cut them in half, and take out the stones. It is best
+not to pare them; as dried peaches are much richer with the skin
+on, and it dissolves and becomes imperceptible when they are
+cooked. Spread them out in a sunny balcony or on a scaffold, and
+let them dry gradually till they become somewhat like leather;
+always bringing them in at sunset, and not putting them out if the
+weather is damp or cloudy. They may also be dried in kilns or
+large ovens.
+
+Apples are dried in the same manner, except that they must be
+pared and quartered.
+
+Cherries also may be dried in the sun, first taking out all the
+stones. None but the largest and best cherries should be used for
+drying.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE QUINCES.
+
+Take large, yellow, ripe quinces, and having washed and wiped
+them, pare them and extract the cores. Quarter the quinces, or cut
+them into round slices an inch thick, and lay them in scalding
+water (closely covered) for an hour, or till they are tender. This
+will prevent them from hardening, Put the parings, cores, and
+seeds into a preserving kettle, cover them with the water in which
+you coddled the quinces, and boil them an hour, keeping them
+closely covered all the time. To every pint of this liquor allow a
+pound of loaf-sugar; and having dissolved the sugar in it, put it
+over the fire in the preserving kettle. Boil it up and skim it,
+and when the scum has ceased rising, put in the quinces, and boil
+them till they are red, tender, and clear all through, but not
+till they break. Keep the kettle closely covered while the quinces
+are in it, if you wish to have them bright coloured. You may
+improve the colour by boiling with them a little cochineal sifted
+through a muslin rag.
+
+When they are done, take them out, spread them on large dishes to
+cool, and then put them into glasses. Give the syrup another boil
+up, and it will be like a fine jelly. Pour it hot over the
+quinces, and when cold, tie up the jars with brandy paper.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE QUINCES WHOLE.
+
+Take those that are large, smooth, and yellow; pare them and
+extract the cores, carefully removing all the blemishes. Boil the
+quinces in a close kettle with the cores and parings, in
+sufficient water to cover them. In half an hour take, them out,
+spread them to cool, and add to the cores and parings some small
+inferior quinces cut in quarters, but not pared or cored; and pour
+in some more water, just enough to boil them. Cover the pan, and
+let them simmer for an hour. Then take it off, strain the liquid,
+measure it, and to each quart allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put the
+sugar to melt in the liquid, and let it set all night. Next day
+boil the quinces in it for a quarter of an hour, and then take
+them out and cool them, saving the syrup. On the following day
+repeat the same; and the fourth day add a quarter of a pound more
+sugar to each pint of the syrup, and boil the quinces in it twelve
+minutes. If by this time they are not tender, bright, and
+transparent all through, repeat the boiling.
+
+When they are quite done, put quince jelly or marmalade into the
+holes from whence you took the cores; put the quinces into glass
+jars and pour the syrup over them. If convenient, it is a very
+nice way to put up each quince in a separate tumbler.
+
+
+QUINCE JELLY.
+
+Take fine ripe yellow quinces, wash them and remove all the
+blemishes, cut them in pieces, but do not pare or core them. Put
+them into a preserving-pan with clear spring water. If you, are
+obliged to use river water, filter it first; allowing one pint to
+twelve large quinces. Boil them gently till they are all soft and
+broken. Then put them into a jelly-bag, and do not squeeze it till
+after the clear liquid has ceased running. Of this you must make
+the _best_ jelly, allowing to each pint a pound of loaf-sugar.
+Having dissolved the sugar in the liquid, boil them
+together about twenty minutes, or till you have a thick jelly.
+
+In the meantime, squeeze out all that is left in the bag. It will
+not be clear, but you can make of it a very good jelly for common
+purposes.
+
+
+QUINCE MARMALADE.
+
+Take six pounds of ripe yellow quinces; and having washed them
+clean, pare and core them, and cut them into small pieces. To each
+pound of the cut quinces allow half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
+Put the parings and cores into a kettle with water enough
+to cover them, and boil them slowly till they are all to pieces,
+and quite soft. Then having put the quinces with the sugar into a
+porcelain preserving kettle, strain over them, through a cloth,
+the liquid from the parings and cores. Add a little cochineal
+powdered, and sifted through thin muslin. Boil the whole over a
+quick fire till it becomes a thick smooth mass, keeping it covered
+except when you are skimming it; and always after skimming, stir
+it up well from the bottom.
+
+When cold, put it up in glass jars. If you wish to use it soon,
+put it warm into moulds, and when if is cold, set the moulds in
+lukewarm water, and the marmalade will turn out easily.
+
+
+QUINCE CHEESE.
+
+Have fine ripe quinces, and pare and core them. Cut them into
+pieces, and weigh them; and to each pound of the cut quinces,
+allow half a pound of the best brown sugar. Pat the cores and
+parings into a kettle, with water enough to cover them, keeping
+the lid of the kettle closed. When you find that they are all
+boiled to pieces and quite soft, strain off the water over the
+sugar, and when it is entirely dissolved, put it over the fire and
+boil it to a thick syrup, skimming it well. When no more scum
+rises, put in the quinces, cover them closely, and boil them all
+day over a slow fire, stirring them and mashing them down with a
+spoon till they are a thick smooth paste. Then take it out, and
+put it into buttered tin pans or deep dishes. Let it set to get
+cold. It will then turn out so firm that you may cut it into
+slices like cheese. Keep it in a dry place in broad stone pots. It
+is intended for the tea-table.
+
+
+PRESERVED APPLES.
+
+Take fine ripe pippin or bell-flower apples. Pare and core them,
+and either leave them whole, or cut them into quarters. Weigh
+them, and to each pound of apples allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put
+the apples into a stew-pan with just water enough to cover them,
+and let them boil slowly for about half an hour. They must be only
+parboiled. Then strain the apple water over the sugar into a
+preserving kettle, and when the sugar is melted put it on the fire
+with the yellow rind of some lemons pared thin, allowing four
+lemons lo a dozen apples. Boil the syrup till clear and thick,
+skimming; it carefully; then put in the apples, and after they
+have boiled slowly a quarter of an hour, add the juice of the
+lemons. Let it boil about fifteen minutes longer, or till the
+apples are tender and clear, but not till they break. When they
+are cold, put them into jars, and covering them closely, let them
+set a week. At the end of that time give them another boil in the
+same syrup; apples being more difficult to keep than any other
+fruit.
+
+You may colour them red by adding, when you boil them in the
+syrup, a little cochineal.
+
+
+BAKED APPLES.
+
+Take a dozen fine large juicy apples, and pare and core them; but
+do not cut them in pieces. Put them side by side into a large
+baking-pan, and fill up with brown sugar the holes from whence you
+have extracted the cores. Pour into each a little lemon-juice, or
+a few drops of essence of lemon, and stick in every one a long
+piece of lemon-peel evenly cut. Into the bottom of the pan put a
+very little water, just enough to prevent the apples from burning.
+Bake them about an hour, or till they are tender all through, but
+not till they break. When, done, set them away to get cold.
+
+If closely covered they will keep, two days. They may be eaten at
+tea with cream. Or at dinner with a boiled custard poured over
+them. Or you may cover them with, sweetened cream flavored with a
+little essence of lemon, and whipped to a froth. Heap the froth
+over every apple so as to conceal them entirely.
+
+
+APPLE JELLY.
+
+Take twenty large ripe juicy pippins. Pare, core, and chop them to
+pieces. Put them into a jar with the yellow rind of four lemons,
+pared thin and cut into little bits Cover the jar closely, and set
+it into a pot of hot water Keep the water boiling hard all round
+it till the apples are dissolved, Then strain them through a
+jelly-bag, and mix with the liquid the juice of the lemons. To
+each pint of the mixed juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put
+them into a porcelain kettle, and when the sugar is melted, set it
+on the fire, and boil and skim it for about twenty minutes, or
+till it becomes a thick jelly. Put it into tumblers, and cover it
+with double tissue paper nicely fitted to the inside of the top.
+The red or Siberian crab apple makes a delicious jelly, prepared
+in the above manner.
+
+
+APPLE BUTTER.
+
+This is a compound of apples and cider boiled together till of the
+consistence of soft butter. It is a very good article on the tea-table,
+or at luncheon. It can only be made of sweet new cider
+fresh from the press, and not yet fermented.
+
+Fill a very large kettle with cider, and boil it till reduced to
+one half the original quantity. Then have ready some fine juicy
+apples, pared, cored, and quartered; and put as many into the
+kettle as can be kept moist by the cider. Stir it frequently, and
+when the apples are stewed quite soft, take them out with a
+skimmer that has holes in it, and put them into a tub. Then add
+more apples to the cider, and stew them soft in the same manner,
+stirring them nearly all the time with a stick. Have at hand some
+more cider ready boiled, to thin the apple butter in case you
+should find it too thick in the kettle.
+
+If you make a large quantity, (and it is not worth while to
+prepare apple butter on a small scale,) it will take a day to stew
+the apples. At night leave them to cool in the tubs, (which must
+be covered with cloths,) and finish next day by boiling the apple
+and cider again till the consistence is that of soft marmalade,
+and the colour a very dark brown.
+
+Twenty minutes or half an hour before you finally take it from the
+fire, add powdered cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg to your taste. If
+the spice is boiled too long, it will lose its flavour.
+
+When it is cold, put it into stone jars, and cover it closely. If
+it has been well made, and sufficiently boiled, it will keep a
+year or more.
+
+It must not he boiled in a brass or bell-metal kettle, on account
+of the verdigris which the acid will collect in it, and which will
+render the apple butter extremely unwholesome, not to say,
+poisonous.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE GREEN CRAB APPLES.
+
+Having washed your crab apples, (which should be full grown,)
+cover the bottom and sides of your preserving kettle with vine
+leaves, and put them in; spreading a thick layer of vine leaves
+over them. Fill up the kettle with cold, water, and hang it over a
+slow fire early in the morning; simmer them slowly, but do not
+allow them to boil. When they are quite yellow, take them out,
+peel off the skin with a penknife, and extract the cores very
+neatly.. Put them again into the kettle with fresh vine leaves and
+fresh water, and hang them again over a slow fire to simmer, but
+not to boil. When they have remained long enough in the second
+vine leaves to become green, take them out, weigh them, and allow
+a pound and a half of loaf-sugar to each pound of crab apples.
+Then after the kettle has been well washed and wiped, put them
+into it with a thick layer of sugar between each layer of apples,
+and about half a pint of water, for each pound and a half of
+sugar. You may add the juice and yellow peel of some lemons. Boil
+them gently till they are quite clear and tender throughout. Skim
+them well, and keep the kettle covered when you are not skimming.
+When done, spread them on large dishes to cool, and then tie them
+up in glass jars with brandy papers.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE RED CRAB APPLES.
+
+Take red or Siberian crab apples when they are quite ripe and the
+seeds are black. Wash and wipe them, and put them into a kettle
+with sufficient water to cover them. Simmer them very slowly till
+you find that the skin will come off easily. Then take them out
+and peel and core them; extract the cores carefully with a small
+knife, so as not to break the apples. Then weigh them, and to
+every pound of crab apples allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar
+and a half pint of water. Put the sugar and water into a
+preserving kettle, and when they are melted together, set it over
+the fire and let it boil. After skimming it once, put in the crab
+apples, adding a little cochineal powder rubbed with a knife into
+a very small quantity of white brandy till it has dissolved. This
+will greatly improve the colour of the apples. Cover them and let
+them boil till clear and tender, skimming the syrup when
+necessary. Then spread them out on dishes, and when they are cold,
+put them into glass jars and pour the syrup over them.
+
+The flavour will be greatly improved by boiling with them in the
+syrup, a due proportion of lemon-juice and the peel of the lemons
+pared thin so as to have the yellow part only. If you use lemon-juice
+put a smaller quantity of water to the sugar. Allow one
+large lemon or two smaller ones to each pound of crab apples.
+
+If you find that after they have been kept awhile, the syrup
+inclines to become dry or candied, give it another boil with the
+crab apples in it, adding a tea-cup full of water to about three
+or four pounds of the sweetmeat.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE GREEN GAGES.
+
+Take large fine green gages that are not perfectly ripe. Weigh
+them, and to each pound of fruit allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar.
+Put a layer of fresh vine leaves at the bottom of a
+porcelain preserving kettle, place on it a layer of gages, then
+cover them with a layer of vine leaves, and so on alternately,
+finishing with a layer of leaves at the top. Fill up the kettle
+with hard water, and set it over a slow fire. When the gages rise
+to the top, take them out and peel them, putting them on a sieve
+as you do so. Then replace them in the kettle with fresh vine
+leaves and water; cover them very closely, so that no steam can
+escape, and hang them up at some distance above the fire to green
+slowly for six hours. They should be warm all the time, but must
+not boil. When they are a fine green, take them carefully out,
+spread them on a hair sieve to drain, and make a syrup of the
+sugar, allowing a half pint of water to each pound and a half of
+sugar. When it has boiled and been skimmed, put in the green gages
+and boil them gently for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out
+and spread them to cool. Next day boil them in the same syrup for
+another quarter of an hour. When cold, put them into glass jars
+with the syrup, and tie them up with brandy paper.
+
+To preserve them whole without peeling, you must prick each at the
+top and bottom, with a large needle.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE PLUMS.
+
+Take fine ripe plums; weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound
+and a half of loaf-sugar. Put them into a pan, and scald them in
+boiling water to make the skins come off easily. Peel them, and
+throw them as you do so into a large china pitcher. Let them set
+for an hour or two, and then take them out, saving all the juice
+that has exuded from them while in the pitcher. Spread the plums
+out on large dishes, and cover them with half the sugar you have
+allotted to them, (it must be previously powdered,) and let them
+lie in it all night. Next morning pour the juice out of the
+pitcher into a porcelain preserving kettle, add the last half of
+the sugar to it, and let it melt over the fire. When it has boiled
+skim it, and then put in the plums. Boil them over a moderate
+fire, for about half an hour. Then take them out one by one with a
+spoon, and spread them on large dishes to cool. If the syrup is
+not sufficiently thick and clear, boil and skim it a little longer
+till it is. Put the plums into glass jars and pour the syrup warm
+over them.
+
+The flavour will be much improved by boiling in the syrup with the
+fruit a handful or more of the kernels of plums, blanched in
+scalding water and broken in half. Take the kernels out of the
+syrup before you pour it into the jars.
+
+You may preserve plums whole, without peeling, by pricking them
+deeply at each end with a large needle.
+
+Green gages and damsons maybe preserved according to this receipt.
+
+
+PLUMS FOR COMMON USE.
+
+Take fine ripe plums, and cut them in half. Extract all the
+stones, and spread out the plums on large dishes. Set the dishes
+on the sunny roof of a porch or shed, and let the plums have the
+full benefit of the sun for three or four days, taking them in, as
+soon as it is off, or if the sky becomes cloudy. This will half
+dry them. Then pack them closely in stone jars with a thick layer
+of the best brown sugar between every layer of plums; putting
+plenty of sugar at the bottom and top of the jars. Cover them
+closely, and set them away in a dry place.
+
+If they have been properly managed, they will keep a year; and are
+very good for pies and other purposes, in the winter and spring.
+
+Peaches may be prepared for keeping in the same manner.
+
+
+EGG PLUMS WHOLE.
+
+Take large egg plums that are not quite ripe, and prick them all
+over with a small silver fork. Leave on the stems. To three pounds
+of plums allow three pounds and a half of loaf-sugar, broken small
+or powdered. Put the plums and sugar into a preserving kettle, and
+pour in one half pint of clear hard water. Hang the kettle over a
+moderate fire, and boil and skim it, As soon as the skin begins to
+crack or shrivel, take out the plums one at a time, (leaving the
+syrup on the fire,) and spread them on large dishes to cool. Place
+them in the open air, and as soon as they are cool enough to be
+touched with your fingers, smooth the skin down where it is broken
+or ruffled, When quite cold, return them to the syrup, (which in
+the mean time must have been kept slowly simmering,) and boil the
+plums again till they are quite clear, but not till they break.
+Put them warm into large glass or queen's-ware jars, and pour the
+syrup over them.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE PEARS.
+
+Take large fine juicy pears that are not perfectly ripe, and pare
+them smoothly and thin; leaving on the stems, but cutting out the
+black top at the blossom end of the fruit. As you pare them, lay
+them in a pan of cold water. Make a thin syrup, allowing a quart
+of water to a pound of loaf-sugar. Simmer the pears in it for
+about half an hour. Then pat them into a tureen, and let them lie
+in the syrup for two days, There must be syrup enough to cover
+them well. After two days, drain the syrup front the pears, and
+add to it more sugar, in the proportion of a pound to each pint of
+the thin syrup. Stir in a very little beaten white of egg, (not
+more than one white to three or four pounds of sugar,) add some
+fresh lemon-peel pared thin, and set the syrup over a brisk fire.
+Boil it for ten minutes and skim it well. Then add sufficient
+lemon-juice to flavour it; and put in the pears. Simmer them in
+the strong syrup till they are quite transparent. Then take them
+out, spread them to cool, and stick a clove in the blossom end of
+each. Put them into glass jars; and having kept the syrup warm
+over the fire while the pears were tooling, pour it over them.
+
+If you wish to have them red, add a little powdered cochineal to
+the strong syrup when you put in your pears.
+
+
+BAKED PEARS.
+
+The best for baking are the large late ones,
+commonly called pound pears. Pare them, cut them in half, and take
+out the cores. Lay them in a deep white dish, with a thin slip of
+fresh lemon-peel in the place from which each core was taken.
+Sprinkle them with sugar, and strew some whole cloves or some
+powdered cinnamon-among them. Pour into the dish some port wine.
+To a dozen large pears you may allow half a pound of sugar, and a
+pint of wine. Cover the dish, with a large sheet of brown paper
+tied on; set it in a moderate oven, and let them bake till tender
+all through which you may ascertain by sticking a broom twig
+through them. They will he done in about an hour, or they may
+probably require more time; but you must not let them remain long
+enough in the oven, to break or fall to pieces. When cool, put
+them up in a stone jar. In cold weather they will keep a week.
+
+To bake smaller pears, pare them, but leave on the stems, and do
+not core them. Put them into a deep dish with fresh lemon, or
+orange-peel; throw on them some brown sugar or molasses; pour in
+at the bottom a little water to keep them from burning; and bake
+them till tender throughout.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE GOOSEBERRIES.
+
+The best way of preserving gooseberries is with jelly. They should
+be full grown but green. Take six quarts of gooseberries, and
+select three quarts of the largest and finest to preserve whole,
+reserving the others for the jelly. Put the whole ones into a pan
+with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them slowly till
+they begin to be tender; but do not keep them on the fire till
+they are likely to burst. Take them out carefully with a
+perforated skimmer to drain the warm water from them, and lay them
+directly in a pan of cold water. Put those that you intend for the
+jelly into a stew-pan, allowing to each quart of gooseberries half
+a pint of water. Boil them fast till they go all to pieces, and
+stir and mash them with a spoon. Then put them into a jelly-bag
+that has been first dipped in hot water, and squeeze through it
+all the juice. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow a pound
+and a half of loaf-sugar. Break up the sugar, and put it into a
+preserving kettle; pour the juice over it, and let it stand to
+melt, stirring it frequently. When it has all dissolved, set it
+over the fire, put the gooseberries into it, and let them boil
+twenty minutes, or till they are quite clear, and till the jelly
+is thick and congeals in the spoon when you hold it in the air. If
+the gooseberries seem likely to break, take them out carefully,
+and let the jelly boil by itself till it is finished. When all is
+done, put up the gooseberries and the jelly together in glass
+jars.
+
+Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, currants or any small fruit may
+in a similar manner be preserved in jelly.
+
+
+TO STEW GOOSEBERRIES.
+
+Top and tail them. Pour some boiling water on the gooseberries,
+cover them up, and let them set about half an hour, or till the
+skin is quite tender, but not till it bursts, as that will make
+the juice run out into the water. Then pour off the water, and mix
+with the gooseberries an equal quantity of sugar. Put them into a
+porcelain stew-pan or skillet, and set it on hot coals, or on a
+charcoal furnace. In a few minutes you may begin to mash them
+against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. Let them stew
+about half an hour, stirring them frequently. They must be quite
+cold before they are used for any thing.
+
+
+GOOSEBERRY FOOL.
+
+Having stewed two quarts of gooseberries in the above manner, stir
+them as soon as they are cold into a quart of rich boiling milk.
+Grate in a nutmeg, and covering the pan, let the gooseberries
+simmer in the milk for five minutes. Then stir in the beaten yolks
+of two or three eggs, and immediately remove it from the fire.
+Keep on the cover a few minutes longer; then turn out the mixture
+into a deep dish or a glass bowl, and set it away to get cold,
+before it goes to table. Eat it with sponge-cake. It will probably
+require additional sugar.
+
+Gooseberries prepared in this manner make a very good pudding,
+with the addition of a little grated bread. Use both whites and
+yolks of the eggs. Stir the mixture well, and bake it in a deep
+dish. Eat it cold, with sugar grated over it.
+
+
+TO BOTTLE GOOSEBERRIES.
+
+For this purpose the gooseberries must be large and full grown,
+but quite green. Top and tail them, and put them into wide-mouthed
+bottles as far up as the beginning of the neck. Cover the bottom
+of a large boiler or kettle with saw-dust or straw. Stand the
+bottles of gooseberries (slightly corked) upright in the boiler,
+and pour round them cold water to each, as far up as the fruit.
+Put a brisk fire under the boiler, and when the water boils up,
+instantly take out the bottles and fill them up to the mouth with
+boiling water, which you must have ready in a tea-kettle. Cork them
+again slightly, and when quite cold put in the corks very tight
+and seal them. Lay the bottles on their sides in a box of dry
+sand, and turn them every day for four or five weeks. If properly
+managed, the gooseberries will keep a year, and may be used at any
+time, by stewing them with sugar.
+
+You may bottle damsons in the same manner; also grapes.
+
+
+PRESERVED RASPBERRIES.
+
+Take a quantity of ripe raspberries, and set aside the half,
+selecting for that purpose the largest and firmest. Then put the
+remainder into your preserving pan, mash them, and set them over
+the fire. As soon as they have come to a boil, take them out, let
+them cool, and then squeeze them through a bag.
+
+While they are cooling, prepare your sugar, which must be fine
+loaf. Allow a pound of sugar to every quart of whole raspberries.
+Having washed the kettle clean, put the sugar into it, allowing
+half a pint of cold water to two pounds of sugar. When it has
+melted in the water, put it on the fire, and boil it till the scum
+ceases to rise, and it is a thick syrup; taking care to skim it
+well. Then put in the whole raspberries, and boil them rapidly a
+few minutes, but not long enough to cause them to burst. Take them
+out with a skimmer full of holes, and spread them on a large dish
+to cool. Then mix with the syrup the juice of those you boiled
+first, and let it boil about ten or fifteen minutes. Lastly, put
+in the whole fruit, and give it one more boil, seeing that it does
+not break.
+
+Put it warm into glass jars or tumblers, and when quite cold cover
+it closely with paper dipped in brandy, tying another paper
+tightly over it.
+
+Strawberries may be done in the same manner; blackberries also.
+
+
+RASPBERRY JAM.
+
+Take fine raspberries that are perfectly ripe. Weigh them, and to
+each pound of fruit allow three quarters of a pound of fine loaf-sugar.
+Mash the raspberries, and break up the sugar. Then mix them
+together, and put them into a preserving kettle over a good fire.
+Stir them frequently and skim them. The jam will be done in half
+an hour. Put it warm into glasses, and lay on the top a white
+paper cut exactly to fit the inside, and dipped in brandy. Then
+tie on another cover of very thick white paper.
+
+Make blackberry jam in the same manner.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE CRANBERRIES.
+
+The cranberries must be large and ripe. Wash them, and to six
+quarts of cranberries allow nine pounds of the best brown sugar.
+Take three quarts of the cranberries, and put them into a stew-pan
+with a pint and a half of water. Cover the pan, and boil or stew
+them, till they are all to pieces. Then squeeze the juice through
+a jelly-bag. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, pour the
+cranberry juice over it and let it stand till it is all melted,
+stirring it up frequently. Then place the kettle over the fire,
+and put in the remaining three quarts of whole cranberries. Let
+them boil till they are tender, clear, and of a bright colour,
+skimming them frequently. When done, put them, warm into jars with
+the syrup, which should be like a thick jelly.
+
+
+RED CURRANT JELLY.
+
+The currants should be perfectly ripe and gathered on a dry day.
+Strip them from the stalks, and put them into a stone jar. Cover
+the jar, and set it up to the neck in a kettle of boiling water.
+Keep the water boiling round the jar till the currants are all
+broken, stirring them up occasionally. Then put them into a jelly-bag,
+and squeeze out all the juice. To each pint of juice allow a
+pound and a quarter of the best loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a
+porcelain kettle, pour the juice over it, and stir it frequently
+till it is all melted. Then set the kettle over a moderate fire,
+and let it boil twenty minutes, or till you find that the jelly
+congeals in the spoon when, you hold it in the air; skim it
+carefully all the time. When the jelly is done, pour it warm into
+tumblers, and cover each with two rounds of white tissue paper,
+cut to fit exactly the inside of the glass.
+
+Jelly of gooseberries, plums, raspberries, strawberries,
+barberries, blackberries, grapes, and other small fruit may all be
+made in this manner.
+
+
+WHITE CURRANT JELLY.
+
+The currants should be quite ripe, and gathered on a dry day.
+Having stripped them from the stalks, put them into a close stone
+jar, and set it in a kettle of boiling water. As soon as the
+currants begin to break, take them out and strain them through a
+linen cloth. To each pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of
+the best double refined loaf-sugar; break it small, and put it
+into a porcelain preserving pan with barely sufficient water to
+melt it; not quite half a pint to a pound and a quarter of sugar;
+it must be either clear spring water or river water filtered. Stir
+up the sugar while it is dissolving, and when all is melted, put
+it over a brisk fire, and boil and skim it till clear and thick.
+When the scum ceases to rise, put in the white currant juice and
+boil it fast for ten minutes. Then put it warm into tumblers, and
+when it is cold, cover it with double white tissue paper.
+
+In making this jelly, use only a silver spoon, and carefully
+observe all the above precautions, that it may be transparent and
+delicate. If it is not quite clear and bright when done boiling,
+you may run it again through a jelly-bag.
+
+White raspberry jelly may be prepared in the same manner. A very
+nice sweetmeat is made of white raspberries preserved whole, by
+putting them in white currant jelly during the ten minutes that
+you are boiling the juice with the syrup. You may also preserve
+red raspberries whole, by boiling them in red currant jelly.
+
+
+BLACK CURRANT JELLY.
+
+Take large ripe black currants; strip them from the stalks, and
+mash them with the back of a ladle. Then put them into a
+preserving kettle with a tumbler of water to each quart of
+currants; cover it closely, set it over a moderate fire, and when
+the currants have come to a boil, take them out, and squeeze them
+through a jelly-bag. To each pint of juice you may allow about a
+pound of loaf-sugar, and (having washed the preserving kettle
+perfectly clean) put in the sugar with the juice; stir them
+together till well mixed and dissolved, and then boil it not
+longer than ten minutes; as the juice of black currants being very
+thick will come to a jelly very soon, and if boiled too long will
+be tough and ropy.
+
+Black currant jelly is excellent for sore throats; and if eaten
+freely on the first symptoms of the disease, will frequently
+check, it without any other remedy. It would be well for all
+families to keep it in the house.
+
+
+GRAPE JELLY.
+
+Take ripe juicy grapes, pick them from the steins; put them into a
+large earthen pan, and mash them with the back of a wooden ladle,
+or with a potato beetle. Put them into a kettle, (without any
+water,) cover them, closely, and let them boil for a quarter of an
+hour; stirring them up occasionally from the bottom. Then squeeze
+them through a jelly-bag, and to each pint of juice allow a pound
+of loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the grape juice; then put it
+over a quick fire in a preserving kettle, and boil and skim it
+twenty minutes. When it is a clear thick jelly, take it off, put
+it warm into tumblers, and cover them with double tissue paper cut
+to fit the inside.
+
+In the same manner you may make an excellent jelly for common use,
+of ripe fox grapes and the best brown sugar; mixing with the sugar
+before it goes on the fire, a little beaten white of egg; allowing
+two whites to three pounds of sugar.
+
+
+GRAPES.
+
+Take some large close bunches of fine grapes, (they must not be
+too ripe,) and allow to each bunch a quarter of a pound of bruised
+sugar candy. Put the grapes and the sugar candy into large jars,
+(about two-thirds full,) and fill them up with French brandy. Tie
+them up closely, and keep them in a dry place. Morella cherries
+may be done in the same manner.
+
+Foreign grapes are kept in bunches, laid lightly in earthen jars
+of dry saw-dust.
+
+
+TO KEEP WILD GRAPES.
+
+Gather the small black wild grapes late in the season, after they
+have been ripened by a frost. Pick them from the stems, and put
+them into stone jars, (two-thirds full,) with layers of brown
+sugar, and fill them up with cold molasses. They will keep all
+winter; and they make good common pies. If they incline to ferment
+in the jars, give them a bail with additional sugar.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES.
+
+Strawberries for preserving should be large and ripe. They will
+keep best if gathered in dry weather, when there has been no rain
+for at least two days. Having hulled, or topped and tailed them
+all, select the largest and firmest, and spread them out
+separately on flat dishes; having first weighed them, and allowed
+to each pound of strawberries a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Sift
+half the sugar over them. Then take the inferior strawberries that
+were left, and those that, are over ripe; mix with them an equal
+quantity of powdered sugar, and mash them. Put them into a basin
+covered with a plate, and set them over the fire in a pan of
+boiling water, till they become a thick juice; then strain it
+through a bag and mix with it the other half of the sugar that you
+have allotted to the strawberries, which are to be done whole. Put
+it into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it till the scum
+ceases to rise; then put in the whole strawberries with the sugar
+in which they have been lying, and all the juice that may have
+exuded from them. Set them over the fire in the syrup, just long
+enough to heat them a little; and in a few minutes take them out,
+one by one, with a tea-spoon, and spread them on dishes to cool;
+not allowing them to touch each other. Then take off what scum may
+arise from the additional sugar. Repeat this several times, taking
+out the strawberries and cooling them till they become quite
+clear. They must not be allowed to boil; and if they seem likely
+to break, they should be instantly and finally taken from the
+fire. When quite cold, put them with the syrup into tumblers, or
+into white queen's-ware pots. If intended to keep a long time it
+will be well to put at the top a layer of apple jelly.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE CHERRIES.
+
+Take large ripe morella cherries; weigh them, and to each pound
+allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Stone the cherries, (opening them
+with a sharp quill,) and save the juice that comes from them in
+the process. As you stone them, throw them into a large pan or
+tureen, and strew about half the sugar over them, and let them lie
+in it an hour or two after they are all stoned. Then put them into
+a preserving kettle with the remainder of the sugar, and boil and
+skim them till the fruit is clear and the syrup thick.
+
+
+CHERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE.
+
+The large carnation cherries are the best for this purpose. They
+should be quite ripe. Prick every one in several places with a
+needle, and leave on the stalks cut short. To each pound of
+cherries allow a pound and a quarter of the best loaf-sugar.
+Spread them on large dishes, and strew over them a thick layer of
+the sugar powdered fine; about a quarter of a pound of sugar to
+each pound of cherries. Or you may put them into a large tureen,
+and disperse the sugar among them, cover them, and let them set
+all night. In the morning get some ripe red currants; pick them,
+from the stalks, and squeeze them through a linen cloth till you
+have just sufficient juice to moisten the remaining sugar, which
+you must have ready in a preserving kettle. When the sugar has
+melted in the currant juice, put it over the fire, and when it has
+been well boiled and skimmed, put in the cherries and simmer them
+half an hour, or till they are so clear that you can see the
+stones through them. Then take them up one at a time, and spread
+them out to cool. Taste one, and if the sugar does not seem, to
+have sufficiently penetrated it, return them to the syrup and boil
+them a little longer, but do not allow them to break. If you are
+willing to take the trouble, you may put them out to cool three or
+four times while simmering. This will make them more transparent,
+and prevent them from bursting.
+
+
+CHERRY JELLY.
+
+Take fine juicy red cherries, and stone them. Save half the
+stones, crack them, and extract the kernels. Put the cherries and
+the kernels into a preserving kettle over a slow fire, and let
+them boil gently in their juice for half an hour. Then transfer
+them to a jelly-bag, and squeeze out the juice. Measure it, and to
+each pint allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in
+the juice, and then boil and skim it for twenty or thirty minutes.
+Put it up in tumblers covered with tissue paper.
+
+
+CHERRY JAM.
+
+To each pound of cherries allow three quarters of a pound of the
+best brown sugar. Stone them, and as you do so throw the sugar
+gradually into the pan with them. Cover them and let them set all
+night. Next day, boil them slowly till the cherries and sugar form
+a thick smooth mass. Put it up in queen's-ware jars.
+
+
+TO DRY CHERRIES.
+
+Choose the finest and largest red cherries for this purpose. Store
+them, and spread them on large dishes in the sun, till they become
+quite dry, taking them in as soon as the sun is off, or if the sky
+becomes cloudy. Put them up in stone jars, strewing among them
+some of the best brown sugar.
+
+The common practice of drying cherries with the stones in, (to
+save trouble,) renders them so inconvenient to eat, that they are
+of little use, when done in that manner.
+
+With the stones extracted, dried cherries will be found very good
+for common pies.
+
+
+BARBERRY JELLY.
+
+Take ripe barberries, and having stripped them from the stalks,
+mash them, and boil them in their juice for a quarter of an hour.
+Then squeeze them through a bag: allow to each pint of juice, a
+pound of loaf-sugar; and having melted the sugar in the juice,
+boil them together twenty or twenty-five minutes, skimming
+carefully. Put it up in tumblers with tissue paper.
+
+FROSTED FRUIT.
+
+Take large ripe cherries, plums, apricots, or grapes, and cut off
+half the stalk. Have ready in one dish some beaten white of egg,
+and in another some fine loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted. Dip the
+fruit first into the white of egg, and then roll it one by one in
+the powdered sugar. Lay a sheet of white paper on the bottom of a
+reversed sieve, set it on a stove or in some other warm place, and
+spread the fruit on the paper till the icing is hardened.
+
+
+PEACH LEATHER.
+
+To six pounds of ripe peaches, (pared and quartered,) allow three
+pounds of the best brown sugar. Mix them together, and put them,
+into a preserving kettle, with barely water enough to keep them
+from burning. Pound and mash them a while with a wooden beetle.
+Then boil and skim them for three hours or more, stirring them
+nearly all the time. When done, spread them thinly on large
+dishes, and set them in the sun for three or four days; Finish the
+drying by loosening the peach leather on the dishes, and setting
+them in the oven after the bread is taken out, letting them remain
+till the oven is cold. Roll up the peach leather and put it away
+in a box.
+
+Apple leather may be made in the same manner.
+
+
+RHUBARB JAM.
+
+Peel the rhubarb stalks and cut them into small square pieces.
+Then weigh them, and to each pound allow three quarters of a pound
+of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the sugar and the rhubarb into a
+large, deep, white pan, in alternate layers, the top layer to be
+of sugar--cover it, and let it stand all night. In the morning,
+put it into a preserving kettle, and boil it slowly till the whole
+is dissolved into a thick mass, stirring it frequently, and
+skimming it before every stirring. Put it warm into glass jars,
+and tie it up with brandy paper.
+
+
+
+
+PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC
+
+
+THE BEST PLAIN PASTE.
+
+All paste should be made in a very cool place, as heat renders it
+heavy. It is far more difficult to get it light in summer than in
+winter. A marble slab is much better to roll it on than a paste-board.
+It will be improved in lightness by washing the butter in
+very cold water, and squeezing and pressing out all the salt, as
+salt is injurious to paste. In New York and in the Eastern states,
+it is customary, in the dairies, to put more salt in what is
+called fresh butter, than in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and
+Delaware. This butter, therefore, should always undergo the
+process of washing and squeezing before it is used for pastry or
+cakes. None but the very best butter should be taken for those
+purposes; as any unpleasant taste is always increased by baking.
+Potted butter never makes good paste. As pastry is by no means an
+article of absolute necessity, it is better not to have it at all,
+than to make it badly, and of inferior ingredients; few things
+being more unwholesome than hard, heavy dough. The flour for paste
+should always be superfine.
+
+You may bake paste in deep dishes or in soup plates. For shells
+that are to be baked empty, and afterwards filled with stewed
+fruit or sweetmeats, deep plates of block tin with broad edges are
+best. If you use patty-pans, the more flat they are the better.
+Paste always rises higher and is more perfectly light and flaky,
+when unconfined at the sides while baking. That it may be easily
+taken out, the dishes or tins should be well buttered.
+
+To make a nice plain paste,--sift three pints of superfine flour,
+by rubbing it through a sieve into a deep pan. Divide a pound of
+fresh butter into four quarters. Cut up one quarter into the
+flour, and rub it fine with your hands. Mix in, gradually, as much
+cold water as will make a tolerably stiff dough, and then knead it
+slightly. Use as little water as possible or the paste will be
+tough. Sprinkle a little flour on your paste-board, lay the lump
+of dough upon it, and knead it a very short time. Flour it, and
+roll it out into a very thin sheet, always rolling from you. Flour
+your rolling-pin to prevent its sticking. Take a second quarter of
+the butter, and with your thumb, spread it all over the sheet of
+paste. If your hand is warm, use a knife instead of your thumb;
+for if the butter oils, the paste will be heavy. When you have put
+on the layer of butter, sprinkle it with a very little flour, and
+with your hands roll up the paste as you would a sheet of paper.
+Then flatten it with a rolling-pin, and roll it out a second time
+into a thin sheet. Cover it with another layer of butter, as
+before, and again roll it up into a scroll. Flatten it again, put
+on the last layer of butter, flour it slightly, and again roll up
+the sheet. Then cut the scroll into as many pieces as you want
+sheets for your dishes or patty-pans. Roll out each piece almost
+an inch thick. Flour your dishes, lay the paste lightly on them,
+notch the edges, and bake it a light brown. The oven must be
+moderate. If it is too hot, the paste will bake before it has
+risen sufficiently. If too cold, it will scarcely rise at all, and
+will be white and clammy. When you begin to make paste in this
+manner, do not quit it till it is ready for the oven. It must
+always be baked in a close oven where no air can reach it.
+
+The best rolling-pins, are those that are straight, and as thick
+at the ends as in the middle. They should be held by the handles,
+and the longer the handles the more convenient. The common
+rolling-pins that decrease in size towards the ends, are much less
+effective, and more tedious, as they can roll so little at a time;
+the extremities not pressing on the dough at all.
+
+All, pastry is best when fresh. After the first day it loses much
+of its lightness, and is therefore more unwholesome.
+
+
+COMMON PIE CRUST.
+
+Sift two quarts of superfine flour into a pan. Divide one pound of
+fresh butter into two equal parts, and cut up one half in the
+flour, rubbing it fine. Mix it with a very little cold water, and
+make it into a round lump. Knead it a little. Then flour your
+paste-board, and roll the dough out into a large thin sheet.
+Spread it all over with the remainder of the butter. Flour it,
+fold it up, and roll it out again. Then fold it again, or roll it
+into a scroll. Cut it into as many pieces as you want sheets of
+paste, and roll each not quite an inch thick. Butter your pie-dish.
+
+This paste will do for family use, when covered pies are wanted.
+Also for apple dumplings, pot-pies, &c.; though all boiled paste
+is best when made of suet instead of butter. Short cakes may be
+made of this, cut out with the edge of a tumbler. It should always
+be eaten fresh.
+
+
+SUET PASTE.
+
+Having removed the skirt and stringy fibres from a pound of beef
+suet, chop it as fine as possible. Sift two quarts of flour into a
+deep pan, and rub into it one half of the suet. Make, it into a
+round lump of dough, with cold water, and then knead it a little.
+Lay the dough on your paste-board, roll it out very thin, and
+cover it with the remaining half of the suet. Flour it, roll it
+out thin again, and then roll it into a scroll. Cut it into as
+many pieces as you want sheets of paste, and roll them out half an
+inch thick.
+
+Suet paste should always be boiled. It is good for plain puddings
+that are made of apples, gooseberries, blackberries or other
+fruit; and for dumplings. If you use it for pot-pie, roll it the
+last time rather thicker than if wanted for any other purpose. If
+properly made, it will be light and flaky, and the suet
+imperceptible. If the suet is minced very fine, and thoroughly
+incorporated with the flour, not the slightest lump will appear
+when the paste comes to table.
+
+The suet must not be melted before it is used; but merely minced
+as fine as possible and mixed cold with the flour.
+
+If for dumplings to eat with boiled mutton, the dough must be
+rolled out thick, and cut out of the size you want them, with a
+tin, or with the edge of a cup or tumbler.
+
+
+DRIPPING PASTE.
+
+To a pound of fresh beef-dripping, that has been nicely clarified,
+allow two pounds and a quarter of flour. Put the flour into a
+large pan, and mix the dripping with it, rubbing it into the flour
+with your hands till it is thoroughly incorporated. Then make it
+into a stiff dough with a little cold water, and roll it out
+twice. This may be used for common meat pies.
+
+
+LARD PASTE.
+
+Lard for paste should never be used without an equal quantity of
+butter. Take half a pound of nice lard, and half a pound of fresh
+butter; rub them together into two pounds and a quarter of flour,
+and mix it with a little cold water to a stiff dough. Roll it out
+twice. Use it for common pies. Lard should always be kept in tin.
+
+
+POTATO PASTE.
+
+To two quarts of flour, allow fourteen good sized potatoes. Boil
+the potatoes till they are thoroughly done throughout. Then peel,
+and mash them very fine. Rub them through a cullender.
+
+Having sifted the flour into a pan, add the potatoes gradually;
+rubbing them well into the flour with your hands. Mix in
+sufficient cold water to make a stiff dough. Roll it out evenly,
+and you may use it for apple dumplings, boiled apple pudding,
+beef-steak pudding, &c.
+
+Potato paste must be sent to table quite hot; as soon as it cools
+it becomes tough and heavy. It is unfit for baking; and even when
+boiled is less light than suet paste.
+
+
+FINE PUFF PASTE.
+
+To every pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound or a quart
+of superfine flour. Sift the flour into a deep pan, and then sift
+on a plate some additional flour to use for sprinkling and
+rolling. Wash the butter through two cold waters; squeezing out
+all the salt, and whatever milk may remain in it; and then make it
+up with your hands into a round lump, and put it in ice till you
+are ready to use it. Then divide the butter into four equal parts.
+Cut up one of the quarters into the pan of flour; and divide the
+remaining three quarters into six pieces, [Footnote: Or into nine;
+and roll it in that number of times.] cutting each quarter in
+half. Mix with a knife the flour and butter that is in the pan,
+adding by degrees a very little cold water till you have made it
+into a lump of stiff dough. Then sprinkle some flour on the paste-board,
+(you should have a marble slab,) take the dough from the
+pan by lifting it out with the knife, lay it on the board, and
+flouring your rolling-pin, roll out the paste into a large thin
+sheet. Then with the knife, put all over it, at equal distances,
+one of the six pieces of butter divided into small bits. Fold up
+the sheet of paste, flour it, roll it out again, and add in the
+same manner another of the portions of butter. Repeat this process
+till the butter is all in. Then fold it once more, lay it on a
+plate, and set it in a cool place till you are ready to use it.
+Then divide it into as many pieces as you want sheets of paste;
+roll out each sheet, and put them into buttered plates or patty-pans.
+In using the rolling-pin, observe always to roll from you.
+Bake the paste in a moderate oven, but rather quick than slow. No
+air must be admitted to it while baking.
+
+The edges of paste should always be notched before it goes into
+the oven. For this purpose, use a sharp penknife, dipping it
+frequently in flour as it becomes sticky. The notches should be
+even and regular. If you do them imperfectly at first, they cannot
+be mended by sticking on additional bits of paste; as, when baked,
+every patch will be doubly conspicuous. There are various ways of
+notching; one of the neatest is to fold over one corner of each
+notch; or you may arrange the notches to stand upright and lie
+flat, alternately, all round the edge. They should be made small
+and regular. You may form the edge into leaves with the little tin
+cutters made for the purpose.
+
+If the above directions for puff paste are carefully followed, and
+if it is not spoiled in baking, it will rise to a great thickness
+and appear in flakes or leaves according to the number of times
+you have put in the butter.
+
+It should be eaten the day it is baked.
+
+
+SWEET PASTE.
+
+Sift a pound and a quarter of the finest flour, and three ounces
+of powdered loaf-sugar into a deep dish. Cut up in it ten ounces
+of the best fresh butter and rub it fine with your hands. Make a
+hole in the middle, pour in the yolks of two beaten eggs, and mix
+them with the flour, &c. Then wet the whole to a stiff paste with
+half a pint of rich milk. Knead it well, and roll it out.
+
+This paste is intended for tarts of the finest sweetmeats. If used
+as shells they should be baked empty, and filled when cool. If
+made into covered tarts they may be iced all over, in the manner
+of cakes, with beaten white of egg and powdered loaf-sugar. To
+make puffs of it, roll it out and cut it into round pieces with
+the edge of a large tumbler, or with a tin cutter. Lay the
+sweetmeat on one half of the paste, fold the other over it in the
+form of a half-moon, and unite the edges by notching them
+together. Bake them in a brisk oven, and when cool, send them to
+table handsomely arranged, several on a dish.
+
+Sweet paste is rarely used except for very handsome
+entertainments. You may add some rose water in mixing it.
+
+
+SHELLS.
+
+Shells of paste are made of one sheet each, rolled out in a
+circular form, and spread over the bottom, sides, and edges of
+buttered dishes or patty-pans, and baked empty; to be filled, when
+cool, with stewed fruit, (which for this purpose should be always
+cold,) or with sweetmeats. They should be made either of fine puff
+paste, or of the best plain paste, or of sweet paste. They are
+generally rolled out rather thick, and will require about half an
+hour to bake. The oven should be rather quick, and of equal heat
+throughout; if hotter in one part than in another, the paste will
+draw to one side, and be warped and disfigured. The shells should
+be baked of a light brown. When cool, they must be taken out of
+the dishes on which they were baked, and transferred to plates and
+filled with the fruit.
+
+Shells of puff paste will rise best if baked on flat patty-pans,
+or tin plates. When they are cool, pile the sweetmeats on them in
+a heap.
+
+The thicker and higher the paste rises, and the more it flakes in
+layers or leaves, the finer it is considered.
+
+Baking paste as empty shells, prevents it from being moist or
+clammy at the bottom.
+
+Tarts are small shells with fruit in them.
+
+
+PIES.
+
+Pies may be made with any sort of paste. It is a fault to roll it
+out too thin; for if it has not sufficient substance, it will,
+when baked, be dry and tasteless. For a pie, divide the paste into
+two sheets; spread one of them over the bottom and sides of a deep
+dish well buttered. Next put in the fruit or other ingredients,
+(heaping it higher in the centre,) and then place the other sheet
+of paste on the top as a lid or cover; pressing the edges closely
+down, and afterwards crimping or notching them with a sharp small
+knife.
+
+In making pies of juicy fruit, it is well to put on the centre of
+the under crust a common tea-cup, laying the fruit round it and
+over it. The juice will collect under the cup, and not be liable
+to run out from between the edges. There should be plenty of sugar
+strewed among the fruit as you put it into the pie.
+
+Preserves should never be put into covered pies. The proper way is
+to lay them in baked shells.
+
+All pies are best the day they are baked. If kept twenty-four
+hours the paste falls and becomes comparatively hard, heavy, and
+unwholesome. If the fruit is not ripe, it should be stewed with
+sugar, and then allowed to get cold before it is put into the pie.
+If put in warm it will make the paste heavy. With fruit pies
+always have a sugar dish on the table, in case they should not be
+found sweet enough.
+
+
+STANDING PIES.
+
+Cut up half a pound of butter, and put it into a sauce-pan with
+three quarters of a pint of water; cover it, and set it on hot
+coals. Have ready in a pan two pounds of sifted flour; make a hole
+in the middle of it, pour in the melted butter as soon as it
+boils, and then with a spoon gradually mix in the flour. When it
+is well mixed, knead it with your hands into a stiff dough.
+Sprinkle your paste-board with flour, lay the dough upon it, and
+continue to knead it with your hands till it no longer sticks to
+them, and is quite light. Then let it stand an hour to cool. Cut
+off pieces for the bottom and top; roll them out thick, and roll
+out a long piece for the sides or walls of the pie, which you must
+fix on the bottom so as to stand up all round; cement them
+together with white of egg, pinching and closing them firmly. Then
+put in the ingredients of your pie, (which should be venison,
+game, or poultry,) and lay on the lid or top crust, pinching the
+edges closely together. You may ornament the sides and top with
+leaves or flowers of paste, shaped with a tin cutter, and notch or
+scollop the edges handsomely. Before you set it in the oven glaze
+it all over with white of egg. Bake it four hours. These pies are
+always eaten cold, and in winter will keep two or three weeks, if
+the air is carefully excluded from them; and they may be carried
+to a considerable distance.
+
+
+A PYRAMID OF TARTS.
+
+Roll out a sufficient quantity of the best puff paste, or sugar
+paste; and with oval or circular cutters, cut it out into seven or
+eight pieces of different sizes; stamping the middle of each with
+the cutter you intend using for the next. Bake them all
+separately, and when they are cool, place them on a dish in a
+pyramid, (gradually diminishing in size,) the largest piece at the
+bottom, and the smallest at the top. Take various preserved
+fruits, and lay some of the largest on the lower piece of paste;
+on the next place fruit that is rather smaller; and so on till you
+finish at the top with the smallest sweetmeats you have. The upper
+one may be not so large as a half-dollar, containing only a single
+raspberry or strawberry.
+
+Notch all the edges handsomely. You may ornament the top or
+pinnacle of the pyramid with a sprig of orange blossom or myrtle.
+
+
+APPLE AND OTHER PIES.
+
+Take fine juicy acid apples; pare, core, and cut them into small
+pieces. Have ready a deep dish that has been lined with paste.
+Fill it with the apples; strewing among them layers of brown
+sugar, and adding the rind of a lemon pared thin, and also the
+juice squeezed in, or some essence of lemon. Put on another sheet
+of paste as a lid; close the edges well, and notch them. Bake the
+pie in a moderate oven, about three quarters of an hour. Eat it
+with cream and sugar, or with cold boiled custard.
+
+If the pie is made of early green apples, they should first be
+stewed with a very little water and plenty of brown sugar.
+
+What are called sweet apples are entirely unfit for cooking, as
+they become tough and tasteless; and it is almost impossible to
+get them sufficiently done.
+
+When you put stewed apples into baked shells, grate nutmeg over
+the top. You may cover them with cream whipped to a stiff froth,
+and heaped on them.
+
+Cranberries and gooseberries should be stewed with sugar before
+they are put into paste. Peaches should be cut in half or
+quartered, and the stones taken out. The stones of cherries and
+plums should also be extracted.
+
+Raspberries or strawberries, mixed with cream and white sugar, may
+he put raw into baked shells.
+
+
+RHUBARB TARTS.
+
+Take the young green stalks of the rhubarb plant, or spring fruit
+as it is called in England; and having peeled off the thin skin,
+cut the stalks into small pieces about an inch long, and put them
+into a sauce-pan with plenty of brown sugar, and its own juice.
+Cover it, and let it stew slowly till it is soft enough to mash to
+a marmalade. Then set it away to cool. Have ready some fresh baked
+shells; fill them with the stewed rhubarb, and grate white sugar
+over the top.
+
+For covered pies, cut the rhubarb very small; mix a great deal of
+sugar with it, and put it in raw. Bake the pies about three
+quarters of an hour.
+
+
+MINCE PIES.
+
+These pies are always made with covers, and should be eaten warm.
+If baked the day before, heat them on the stove or before the
+fire.
+
+Mince-meat made early in the winter, and packed closely in stone
+jars, will keep till spring, if it has a sufficiency of spice and
+liquor. Whenever you take out any for use, pour some additional
+brandy into the jar before you cover it again, and add some more
+sugar. No mince-meat, however, will keep well unless all the
+ingredients are of the best quality. The meat should always be
+boiled the day before you want to chop it.
+
+
+GOOD MINCE-MEAT.
+
+Take a bullock's heart and boil it, or two pounds of the lean of
+fresh beef. When it is quite cold, chop it very fine. Chop three
+pounds of beef suet (first removing the skin and strings) and six
+pounds of large juicy apples that have been pared and cored. Then,
+stone six pounds of the best raisins, (or take sultana raisins
+that are without stones,) and chop them also. Wash and dry three
+pounds of currants. Mix all together; adding to them the grated
+peel and the juice of two or three large oranges, two table-spoonfuls
+of powdered cinnamon, two powdered nutmegs, and three
+dozen powdered cloves, a tea-spoonful of beaten mace, one pound of
+fine brown sugar, one quart of Madeira wine, one pint of French
+brandy, and half a pound of citron cut into large slips. Having
+thoroughly mixed the whole, put it into a stone jar, and tie it up
+with brandy paper.
+
+
+THE BEST MINCE-MEAT,
+
+Take a large fresh tongue, rub it with a mixture, in equal
+proportions, of salt, brown sugar, and powdered cloves. Cover it,
+and let it lie two days, or at least twenty-four hours. Then boil
+it two hours, and when, it is cold, skin it, and mince it very
+fine. Chop also three pounds of beef suet, six pounds of sultana
+raisins, and six pounds of the best pippin apples that have been
+previously pared and cored. Add three pounds of currants, picked,
+washed and dried; two large table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon;
+the juice and grated rinds of four large lemons; one pound of
+sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded
+in a mortar with half a pint of rose water; also four powdered
+nutmegs; two dozen beaten cloves; and a dozen blades of mace
+powdered. Add a pound of powdered white sugar, and a pound of
+citron cut into slips. Mix all together, and moisten it with a
+quart of Madeira, and a pint of brandy. Put it up closely in a
+stone jar with brandy paper; and when you take any out, add some
+more sugar and brandy.
+
+Bake this mince-meat in puff paste.
+
+You may reserve the citron to put in when you make the pies. Do
+not cut the slips too small, or the taste will be almost
+imperceptible.
+
+
+VERY PLAIN MINCE-MEAT.
+
+Take a piece of fresh beef, consisting of about two pounds of
+lean, and one pound of fat. Boil it, and when it is quite cold,
+chop it fine. Or you may substitute cold roast beef. Pare and core
+some fine juicy apples, cut them in pieces, weigh three pounds,
+and chop them. Stone four pounds of raisins, and chop them also.
+Add a large table-spoonful of powdered cloves, and the same
+quantity of powdered cinnamon. Also a pound of brown sugar. Mix
+all thoroughly, moistening it with a quart of bottled or sweet
+cider. You may add the grated peel and the juice of an orange.
+
+Bake it in good common paste.
+
+This mince-meat will do very well for children or for family use,
+but is too plain to be set before a guest. Neither will it keep so
+long as that which is richer and more highly seasoned. It is best
+to make no more of it at once than you have immediate occasion
+for.
+
+
+MINCE-MEAT FOR LENT.
+
+Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and chop the yolks very fine. Chop
+also a dozen pippins, and two pounds of sultana raisins. Add two
+pounds of currants, a pound of sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of beaten mace, three powdered nutmegs,
+the juice and grated peel of three large lemons, and half a pound
+of citron cut in large strips. Mix these ingredients thoroughly,
+and moisten the whole with a pint of white wine, half a pint of
+rose-water, and half a pint of brandy. Bake it in very nice paste.
+
+These mince pies may be eaten by persons who refrain from meat in
+Lent.
+
+
+ORANGE PUDDING.
+
+Grate the yellow part of the rind, and squeeze the juice of two
+large, smooth, deep-coloured oranges. Stir together to a cream,
+half a pound of butter, and half a pound of powdered white sugar,
+and add a wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy. Beat very light six
+eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Put it into a
+buttered dish with a broad edge, round which lay a border of puff-paste
+neatly notched. Bake it half an hour, and when cool grate
+white sugar over it.
+
+You may add to the mixture a Naples biscuit, or two finger
+biscuits, grated.
+
+
+LEMON PUDDING.
+
+May be made precisely in the same manner as the above;
+substituting lemons for oranges.
+
+
+QUINCE PUDDING.
+
+Take six large ripe quinces; pare them, and cut out all the
+blemishes. Then scrape them to a pulp, and mix the pulp with half
+a pint of cream, and half a pound of powdered sugar, stirring them
+together very hard. Beat the yolks of seven eggs, (omitting all
+the whites except two,) and stir them gradually into the mixture,
+adding two wine glasses of rose water. Stir the whole well
+together, and bake it in a buttered dish three quarters of an hour
+Grate sugar over it when cold.
+
+If you cannot obtain cream, you may substitute a quarter of a
+pound of fresh butter stirred with the sugar and quince. A baked
+apple pudding may be made in the same manner.
+
+
+ALMOND PUDDING.
+
+Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of
+shelled bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald and peel them;
+throwing them, as they are peeled, into cold water. Then pound
+them one at a time in a marble mortar, adding to each a few drops
+of rose water; otherwise they will be heavy and oily. Mix the
+sweet and bitter almonds together by pounding them alternately;
+and as you do them, take them out and lay them on a plate. They
+must each be beaten to a fine smooth paste, free from the smallest
+lumps. It is best to prepare them the day before you make the
+pudding.
+
+Stir to a cream half a pound of fresh butter and half a pound of
+powdered white sugar; and by degrees pour into it a glass of mixed
+wine and brandy. Beat to a stiff froth, the whites only, of twelve
+eggs, (you may reserve the yolks for custards or other purposes,)
+and stir alternately into the butter and sugar the pounded almonds
+and the beaten white of egg. When the whole is well mixed, put it
+into a buttered dish and lay puff paste round the edge. Bake it
+about half an hour, and when cold grate sugar over it.
+
+
+ANOTHER ALMOND PUDDING.
+
+Blanch three quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and
+three ounces of shelled bitter almonds, and beat them in a mortar
+to a fine paste; mixing them well, and adding by degrees a tea-cup
+full, or more, of rose water. Boil in a pint of rich milk, a few
+sticks of cinnamon broken up, and a few blades of mace. When the
+milk has come to a boil, take it off the fire, strain it into a
+pan, and soak in it five stale rusks cut into slices. They must
+soak till quite dissolved. Stir to a cream three quarters of a
+pound of fresh butter, mixed with the same quantity of powdered
+loaf-sugar. Beat ten eggs very light, yolks and whites together,
+and then stir alternately into the butter and sugar, the rusk,
+eggs, and almonds. Set it on a stove or a chafing dish, and stir
+the whole together till very smooth and thick. Put it into a
+buttered dish and bake it three quarters of an hour. It must be
+eaten cool or cold.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT PUDDING.
+
+Having opened a cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin from the
+pieces, and wash them all in cold water. Then weigh three quarters
+of a pound, and grate it into a dish. Cut up half a pound of
+butter into half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir them
+together to a cream; add to them a glass of wine and rose water
+mixed. Beat the whites only, of twelve eggs, till they stand alone
+on the rods; and then stir the grated cocoa-nut and the beaten
+white of egg alternately into the butter and sugar; giving the
+whole a hard stirring at the last. Put the mixture into a buttered
+dish, lay puff paste round the flat edge, and bake it half an hour
+in a moderate oven. When cool, grate powdered sugar over it.
+
+
+ANOTHER COCOA-NUT PUDDING.
+
+Peel and cut up the cocoa-nut, and wash, and wipe the pieces.
+Weigh one pound, and grate it fine. Then, mix with it three stale
+rusks or small sponge-cakes, grated also. Stir together till very
+light half a pound of butter and half a pound of powdered white
+sugar, and add a glass of white wine. Beat six whole eggs very
+light, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar in turn
+with the grated cocoa-nut. Having stirred the whole very hard at
+the last, put it into a buttered dish and bake it half an hour.
+
+
+PUMPKIN PUDDING.
+
+Take a pint of pumpkin that has been stewed soft, and pressed
+through a cullender. Melt in half a pint of warm milk, a quarter
+of a pound of butter, and the same quantity of sugar, stirring
+them well together. If you can conveniently procure a pint of rich
+cream it will be better than the milk and butter. Beat eight eggs
+very light, and add them gradually to the other ingredients,
+alternately with the pumpkin. Then stir in a wine glass of rose
+water and two glasses of wine mixed together; a large tea-spoonful
+of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and a grated nutmeg. Having
+stirred the whole very hard, put it into a buttered dish and bake
+it three quarters of an hour.
+
+
+A SQUASH PUDDING.
+
+Pare, cut in pieces, and stew in a very little water, a yellow
+winter squash. When it is quite soft, drain it dry, and mash it in
+a cullender. Then put it into a pan, and mix with it a quarter of
+a pound of butter. Prepare two pounded crackers, or an equal
+quantity of grated stale bread. Stir gradually a quarter of a
+pound of powdered sugar into a quart of rich milk, and add by
+degrees, the squash, and the powdered biscuit. Beat nine eggs very
+light, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Add a glass of
+white wine, a glass of brandy, a glass of rose water, and a table-spoonful
+of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon powdered. Stir
+the whole very hard, till all the ingredients are thoroughly
+mixed. Bake it three quarters of an hour in a buttered dish; and
+when cold, grate white sugar over it.
+
+
+YAM PUDDING.
+
+Take one pound of roasted yam, and rub it through a cullender. Mix
+with it half a pound of white sugar, a pint of cream or half a
+pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a grated
+nutmeg, and a wine glass of rose water, and one of wine. Set it
+away to get cold. Then beat six eggs very light. Stir them into
+the mixture. Put it into a buttered dish and bake it half an hour.
+Grate sugar over it when cold.
+
+
+CHESTNUT PUDDING,
+
+May be made in the above manner.
+
+
+POTATO PUDDING.
+
+Boil a pound of fine potatoes, peel them, mash them, and rub them
+through a cullender. Stir together to a cream, three quarters of a
+pound of sugar and the same quantity of butter. Add to them
+gradually, a wine glass of rose water, a glass of wine, and a
+glass of brandy; a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, a
+grated nutmeg, and the juice and grated peel of a large lemon.
+Then beat six eggs very light, and add them by degrees to the
+mixture, alternately with the potato. Bake it three quarters of an
+hour in a buttered dish.
+
+
+SWEET POTATO PUDDING.
+
+Take half a pound of sweet potatoes, wash them, and put them into
+a pot with a very little water, barely enough to keep them from
+burning. Let them simmer slowly for about half an hour; they must
+be only parboiled, otherwise they will be soft, and may make the
+pudding heavy. When they are half done, take them out, peel them,
+and when cold, grate them. Stir together to a cream, half a pound
+of butter and a quarter of a pound and two ounces of powdered
+sugar, add a grated nutmeg, a large tea-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon, and half a tea-spoonful of beaten mace. Also the juice
+and grated peel of a lemon, a wine glass of rose water, a glass of
+wine, and a glass of brandy. Stir these ingredients well together.
+Beat eight eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture in turn
+with the sweet potato, a little at a time of each. Having stirred
+the whole very hard at the last, put it into a buttered dish and
+bake it three quarters of an hour.
+
+
+CARROT PUDDING.
+
+May be made in the above manner.
+
+
+GREEN CORN PUDDING.
+
+Take twelve ears of green corn, as it is called, (that is, Indian
+corn when full grown, but before it begins to harden and turn
+yellow,) and grate it. Have ready a quart of rich milk, and stir
+into it by degrees a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a
+quarter of a pound of sugar. Beat four eggs till quite light; and
+then stir them into the milk, &c. alternately with the grated
+corn, a little of each at a time. Put the mixture into a large
+buttered dish, and bake it four hours. It may be eaten either warm
+or cold, For sauce, beat together butter and white sugar in equal
+proportions, mixed with grated nutmeg.
+
+To make this pudding--you may, if more convenient, boil the corn
+and cut it from the cob; but let it get quite cold before you stir
+it into the milk. If the corn has been previously boiled, the
+pudding will require but two hours to bake.
+
+
+SAGO PUDDING.
+
+Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of currants; and prepare a tea-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon; a half tea-spoonful of powdered
+mace; and a beaten nutmeg. Have ready six table-spoonfuls of sago,
+picked clean, and soaked for two hours in cold water. Boil the
+sago in a quart of milk till quite soft. Then stir alternately
+into the milk, a quarter of a pound of butter, and six ounces of
+powdered sugar, and set it away to cool. Bent eight eggs, and when
+they are quite light, stir them gradually into the milk, sago, &c.
+Add the spice, and lastly the currants; having dredged them well
+with flour to prevent their sinking. Stir the whole very hard, put
+it into a buttered dish, and bake it three quarters of an hour.
+Eat it cold.
+
+
+ARROW ROOT PUDDING.
+
+Take four tea-cups full of arrow root, and dissolve it in a pint
+of cold milk. Then boil another pint of milk with some broken
+cinnamon, and a few bitter almonds or peach-leaves. When done,
+strain it hot over the dissolved arrow root; stir it to a thick
+smooth batter, and set it away to get cold. Next, beat six eggs
+very light, and stir them into the batter, alternately with a
+quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. Add a grated nutmeg
+and some fresh lemon-peel grated. Put the mixture into a buttered
+dish, and bake it an hour. When cold, cut some slices of preserved
+quince or peach, and arrange them handsomely all over the top of
+the pudding; or ornament it with strawberries, or raspberries
+preserved whole.
+
+
+GROUND RICE PUDDING.
+
+Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with a pint of cold milk,
+till it is a smooth batter and free from lumps. Boil three pints
+of milk; and when it has boiled, stir in gradually the rice
+batter, alternately with a quarter of a pound of butter. Keep it
+over the fire, stirring all the time, till the whole is well
+mixed, and has boiled hard. Then take it off, add a quarter of a
+pound of white sugar; stir it well, and set it away to cool. Beat
+eight eggs very light and stir them into the mixture when it is
+quite cold. Then strain it through a sieve, (this will make it
+more light and delicate,) add a grated nutmeg, and a large tea-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon. Stir in the juice and the grated
+peel of a lemon, or a small tea-spoonful of essence of lemon. Put
+it into a deep dish or dishes, and bake it an hour. As soon as it
+comes out of the oven, lay slips of citron over the top; and when
+cold, strew powdered sugar on it.
+
+
+A RICE PLUM PUDDING.
+
+Take three jills of whole rice; wash it, and boil it in a pint of
+milk. When it is soft, mix in a quarter of a pound of butter, and
+set it aside to cool; and when it is quite cold, stir it into
+another pint of milk. Prepare a pound and a half of raisins or
+currants; if currants, wash and dry them; if raisins, seed them
+and cut them in half. Dredge them well with flour, to prevent
+their sinking; and prepare also a powdered nutmeg; a table-spoonful
+of mixed mace and cinnamon powdered; a wine glass of rose
+water; and a wine glass of brandy or white wine. Beat six eggs
+very light, and stir them into the mixture, alternately with a
+quarter of a pound of sugar. Then add by degrees the spice and the
+liquor, and lastly, stir in, a few at a time, the raisins or
+currants. Put the pudding into a buttered dish and bake it an hour
+and a half. Send it to table cool.
+
+You may make this pudding of ground rice, using but half a pint
+instead of three jills.
+
+
+A PLAIN RICE PUDDING.
+
+Pick and wash a pint of rice, and boil it soft. Then drain off the
+water, and let the rice dry and get cold. Afterwards mix with it
+two ounces of butter, and four ounces of sugar, and stir it into a
+quart of rich milk. Beat four or five eggs very light, and add
+them gradually to the mixture. Stir in at the last a table-spoonful
+of mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Bake it an hour in a deep
+dish.
+
+
+A FARMER'S RICE PUDDING.
+
+This pudding is made without eggs. Wash half a pint of rice
+through two cold waters, and drain it well. Stir it raw into a
+quart of rich milk, or of cream and milk mixed; adding a quarter
+of a pound of brown sugar, and a table-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon. Put it into a deep pan, and bake it two hours or more.
+When done, the rice will be perfectly soft, which you may
+ascertain by dipping a tea-spoon into the edge of the pudding and
+taking out a little to try. Eat it cold.
+
+
+RICE MILK.
+
+Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and boil it in a quart of water
+till it is quite soft. Then drain it, and mix it with a quart of
+rich milk. You may add half a pound of whole raisins. Set it over
+hot coals, and stir it frequently till it boils. When it boils
+hard, stir in alternately two beaten eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls
+of brown sugar. Let it continue boiling five minutes
+longer; then take it off, and send it to table hot. If you put in
+raisins you must let it boil till they are quite soft.
+
+
+A BOILED RICE PUDDING.
+
+Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with a pint of milk, and
+simmer it over hot coals; stirring it all the time to prevent its
+being lumpy, or burning at the bottom. When it is thick and
+smooth, take it off, and pour it into an earthen pan. Mix a
+quarter of a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter
+with half a pint of cream or very rich milk, and stir it into the
+rice; adding a powdered nutmeg, and the grated rind of two lemons,
+or half a tea-spoonful of strong oil of lemon. Beat the yolks of
+six eggs with the whites of two only. When the eggs are quite
+light, mix them gradually with the other ingredients, and stir the
+whole very hard. Butter a large bowl, or a pudding mould. Put in
+the mixture; tying a cloth tightly over the top, (so that no water
+can get in,) and boil it two hours. When done, turn it out into a
+dish. Send it to table warm, and eat it with sweetened cream,
+flavoured with a glass of brandy or white wine and a grated
+nutmeg.
+
+
+A MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.
+
+Pare, core and quarter six large ripe pippin apples. Stew them in
+half a pint of water. When they are soft but not broken, take them
+out, drain them through a sieve, and mash them to a paste with the
+back of a spoon. Mix with them six large table-spoonfuls of sugar
+and a quarter of a pound of butter, and set them away to get cold.
+Grate two milk biscuits or email sponge cakes, or an equal
+quantity of stale bread, and grate also the yellow peel, and
+squeeze the juice of a large lemon. Beat six eggs light, and when
+the apple is cold stir them gradually into it, adding the grated
+biscuit and the lemon. Stir in a wine glass of rose water and a
+grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a buttered dish or dishes; lay
+round the edge a border of puff paste, and bake it three quarters
+of art hour. When cold, grate white sugar over the top, and
+ornament it with slips of citron handsomely arranged.
+
+
+ALMOND CHEESE CAKE.
+
+This though usually called a cheese cake, is in fact a pudding.
+
+Cut a piece of rennet about two inches square, wash off the salt
+in cold water, and wipe it dry. Put it into a tea-cup, pour on it
+sufficient lukewarm water to cover it, and let it soak all night,
+or at least several hours. Take a quart of milk, which must be
+made warm, but not boiling. Stir the rennet-water into it. Cover
+it, and set it in a warm place. When the curd has become quite
+firm, and the whey looks greenish, drain off the whey, and set the
+curd in a cool place. While the milk is turning, prepare the other
+ingredients. Wash and dry half a pound of currants, and dredge
+them well with flour. Blanch three ounces of sweet and one ounce
+of bitter almonds, by scalding and peeling them. Then cool them in
+cold water, wiping them dry before you put them into the mortar.
+If you cannot procure bitter almonds, peach kernels may be
+substituted. Beat them, one at a time, in the mortar to a smooth
+paste, pouring in with every one a few drops of rose water to
+prevent their being oily, dull-coloured, and heavy. If you put a
+sufficiency of rose water, the pounded almond paste will be light,
+creamy, and perfectly white. Mix, as you do them, the sweet and
+bitter almonds together. Then beat the yolks of eight eggs, and
+when light, mix them gradually with the curd. Add five table-spoonfuls
+of cream, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice. Lastly,
+stir in, by degrees, the pounded almonds, and the currants
+alternately. Stir the whole mixture very hard. Bake it in buttered
+dishes, laying puff paste round the edges. If accurately made, it
+will be found delicious. It must be put in the oven immediately.
+
+
+COMMON CHEESE CAKE.
+
+Boil a quart of rich milk. Beat eight eggs, put them to the milk,
+and let the milk and eggs boil together till they become a curd.
+Then drain it through a very clean sieve, till all the whey is
+out. Put the curd into a deep dish, and mix with it half a pound
+of butter, working them well together. When it is cold, add to it
+the beaten yolks of four eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of
+powdered white sugar; also a grated nutmeg. Lastly, stir in, by
+degrees, half a pound of currants that have been previously
+picked, washed, dried, and dredged with flour. Lay. puff paste
+round the rim of the dish, and bake the cheese cake half an hour.
+Send it to table cold.
+
+
+PRUNE PUDDING.
+
+Scald a pound of prunes; cover them, and let them swell in the hot
+water till they are soft. Then drain them, and extract the stones;
+spread the prunes on a large dish, and dredge them with flour.
+Take one jill or eight large fable-spoonfuls from a quart of rich
+milk, and stir into it, gradually, eight spoonfuls of sifted
+flour. Mix it to a smooth batter, pressing out all the lumps with
+the back of the spoon. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them, by
+degrees, into the remainder of the milk, alternately with the
+batter that you have just mixed. Then add the prunes one at a
+time, stirring the whole very hard. Tie the pudding in a cloth
+that has been previously dipped in boiling water and then dredged
+with flour. Leave room for it to swell, but secure it firmly, so
+that no water can get in. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and
+boil it two hours. Send it to table hot, (not taking it out of the
+pot till a moment before it is wanted,) and eat it with cream
+sauce; or with butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together, and
+served up in a little tureen. A similar pudding may be made with
+whole raisins.
+
+
+EVE'S PUDDING.
+
+Pare, core, and quarter six large pippins, and chop them very
+fine. Grate stale bread till you have six ounces of crumbs, and
+roll fine six ounces of brown sugar. Pick, wash, and dry six
+ounces of currants, and sprinkle them with flour. Mix all these
+ingredients together in a large pan, adding six ounces of butter
+cut small, and two table-spoonfuls of flour. Beat six eggs very
+light, and moisten the mixture with them. Add a grated nutmeg, and
+a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir the whole very well
+together. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Dip your pudding
+cloth into it, shake it out, and dredge it with flour. Then put in
+the mixture, and tie it very firmly; leaving space for the pudding
+to swell, and stopping up the tying place with a paste of wetted
+flour. Boil it three hours; keeping at the fire a kettle of
+boiling water, to replenish the pot, that the pudding may be
+always well covered. Send it to table hot, and eat it with
+sweetened cream flavoured with wine and nutmeg.
+
+
+CINDERELLAS OR GERMAN PUFFS.
+
+Sift eight table-spoonfuls of the finest flour. Cut up in a quart
+of rich milk, half a pound of fresh butter, and set it on the
+stove, or near the fire, till it has melted. Beat eight eggs very
+light, and stir them gradually into the milk and butter,
+alternately with the flour. Add a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon. Mix the whole very well to a fine
+smooth batter, in which there must be no lumps. Butter some large
+common tea-cups, and divide the mixture among them till they are
+half full or a little more. Set them immediately in a quick oven,
+and bake them about a quarter of an hour. When done, turn them out
+into a dish and grate white sugar over them. Serve them up hot,
+with a sauce of sweetened cream flavoured with wine and nutmeg; or
+you may eat them with molasses and butter; or with sugar and wine.
+Send them round whole, for they will fall almost as soon as cut.
+
+
+A BOILED BREAD PUDDING.
+
+Boil a quart of rich milk. While it is boiling, take a small loaf
+of baker's bread, such as is sold for five or six cents. It may be
+either fresh or stale. Pare off all the crust, and cut up the
+crumb into very small pieces. You should have baker's bread if you
+can procure it, as home-made bread may not make the pudding light
+enough. Put the bread into a pan; and when the milk boils, pour it
+scalding hot over the bread. Cover the pan closely, and let it
+steep in the hot steam for about three quarters of an hour. Then
+remove the cover, and allow the bread and milk to cool. In the
+mean time, beat four eggs till they are thick and smooth. Then
+beat into them a table-spoonful and a half of fine wheat flour.
+Next beat the egg and flour into the bread and milk, and continue
+to beat hard till the mixture is as light as possible; for on this
+the success of the pudding chiefly depends.
+
+Have ready over the fire a pot of boiling water. Dip your pudding-cloth
+into it, and shake it out. Spread out the cloth in a deep
+dish or pan, and dredge it well with flour. Pour in the mixture,
+and tie up the cloth, leaving room for it to swell. Tie the string
+firmly and plaster up the opening (if there is any) with flour
+moistened with water. If any water gets into it the pudding will
+be spoiled.
+
+See that the water boils when you put in the pudding, and keep it
+boiling hard. If the pot wants replenishing, do it with boiling
+water from a kettle. Should you put in cold water to supply the
+place of that which has boiled away, the pudding will chill, and
+become hard and heavy. Boil it an hour and a half.
+
+Turn it out of the bag the minute before you send it to table. Eat
+it with wine sauce, or with sugar and butter, or molasses.
+
+It will be much improved by adding to the mixture half a pound of
+whole raisins, well floured to prevent their sinking. Sultana
+raisins are best, as they have no seeds.
+
+If these directions are exactly followed, this will be found a
+remarkably good and wholesome plain pudding.
+
+For all boiled puddings, a square pudding-cloth which can be
+opened out, is much better than a bag. It should be very thick.
+
+
+A BAKED BREAD PUDDING.
+
+Take a stale five cent loaf of bread; cut off all the crust, and
+grate or rub the crumb as fine as possible. Boil a quart of rich
+milk, and pour it hot over the bread; then stir in a quarter of a
+pound of butter, and the same quantity of sugar, a glass of wine
+and brandy mixed, or a glass of rose water. Or you may omit the
+liquor and substitute the grated peel of a large lemon. Add a
+table-spoonful of raised cinnamon and nutmeg powdered. Stir the
+whole very well, cover it, and set it away for half an hour. Then
+let it cool. Beat seven or eight eggs very light, and stir them
+gradually into the mixture after it is cold. Then butter a deep
+dish, and bake the pudding an hour. Send it to table cool.
+
+
+A BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.
+
+Cut some slices of bread and butter moderately thick, omitting the
+crust; stale bread is best. Butter a deep dish, and cover the
+bottom with slices of the buttered bread. Have ready a pound of
+currants, picked, washed and dried. Spread one third of them
+thickly over the bread and butter, and strew on some brown sugar.
+Then put another layer of bread and butter, and cover it also with
+currants and sugar. Finish with a third layer of each, and pour
+over the whole four eggs, beaten very light and mixed with a pint
+of milk, and a wine glass of rose water. Bake the pudding an hour,
+and grate nutmeg over it when done. Eat it warm, but not hot.
+
+You may substitute for the currants, raisins seeded, and cut in
+half.
+
+This pudding may be made also with layers of stewed gooseberries
+instead of the currants, or with pippin apples pared, cored and
+minced fine.
+
+
+A SUET PUDDING.
+
+Mince very finely as much beef suet as will make two large
+table-spoonfuls. Grate two handfuls of bread-crumbs; boil a quart
+of milk and pour it hot on the bread. Cover it, and set it aside
+to steep for half an hour; then put it to cool. Beat eight eggs
+very light; stir the suet, and three table-spoonfuls of floor
+alternately into the bread and milk, and add, by degrees, the
+eggs. Lastly, stir in a table-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and
+cinnamon mixed, and a glass of mixed wine and brandy. Pour it into
+a bag that has been dipped in hot water and floured; tie it
+firmly, put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil it two hours.
+Do not take it up till immediately before it is wanted, and send
+it to table hot.
+
+Eat it with wine sauce, or with molasses.
+
+
+A CUSTARD PUDDING.
+
+Take five table-spoonfuls out of a quart of cream or rich milk, and
+mix them with two large spoonfuls of fine flour. Set the rest of
+the milk to boil, flavouring it with half a dozen peach leaves, or
+with bitter almonds broken up. When it has boiled hard, take it
+off, strain it, and stir in the cold milk and flour. Set it away
+to cool, and beat very light ten yolks and four whites of eggs;
+add them to the milk, and stir in, at the last, a glass of brandy,
+or white wine, a powdered nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of
+sugar. Butter a large bowl or mould; pour in the mixture; tie a
+cloth tightly over it; put it into a pot of boiling water, and
+boil it two hours, replenishing the pot with hot water from a tea-kettle.
+When the pudding is done, let it get cool before you turn
+it out. Eat it with butter and sugar stirred together to a cream,
+and flavoured with lemon.
+
+
+FLOUR HASTY PUDDING.
+
+Tie together half a dozen peach leaves, put them into a quart of
+milk, and set it on the fire to boil. When it has come to a hard
+boil, take out the leaves, but let the pot remain boiling on the
+fire. Then with a large wooden spoon in one hand, and some wheat
+flour in the other, thicken and stir it till it is about the
+consistence of a boiled custard. Afterwards throw in, one at a
+time, a dozen small bits of butter rolled in a thick coat of
+flour. You may enrich it by stirring in a beaten egg or two, a few
+minutes before you take it from the fire. When done, pour it into
+a deep dish, and strew brown sugar thickly over the top. Eat it
+warm.
+
+
+INDIAN MUSH.
+
+Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling water. Stir into it by
+degrees (a handful at a time) sufficient Indian meal to make it
+very thick, and then add a very small portion of salt. You must
+keep the pot boiling on the fire all the time you are throwing in
+the meal; and between every handful, stir very hard with the mush-stick,
+(a round stick flattened at one end,) that the mush may not
+be lumpy. After it is sufficiently thick, keep it boiling for an
+hour longer, stirring it occasionally. Then cover the pot, and
+hang it higher up the chimney, so as to simmer slowly or keep hot
+for another hour. The goodness of mush depends greatly on its
+being long and thoroughly boiled. If sufficiency cooked, it is
+wholesome and nutritious, but exactly the reverse, if made in
+haste. It is not too long to have it altogether three of four
+hours over the fire; on the contrary it will be much the better
+for it.
+
+Eat it warm; either with milk, or cover your plate with mush, make
+a hole in the middle, put some butter in the hole and fill it up
+with molasses.
+
+Cold mush that has been left, may be cut into slices and fried in
+butter.
+
+Burgoo is made precisely in the same manner as mush, but with
+oatmeal instead of Indian.
+
+
+A BAKED INDIAN PUDDING.
+
+Cut up a quarter of a pound of butter in a pint of molasses, and
+warm them together till the butter is melted. Boil a quart of
+milk; and while scalding hot, pour it slowly over a pint of sifted
+Indian meal, and stir in the molasses and butter. Cover it, and
+let it steep for an hour. Then take off the cover, and set the
+mixture to cool. When it is cold, beat six eggs, and stir them
+gradually into it; add a table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and
+nutmeg; and the grated peel of a lemon. Stir the whole very hard;
+put it into a buttered dish, and bake it two hours. Serve it up
+hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with butter and molasses.
+
+
+A BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.
+
+Chop very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet, and mix it with
+a pint of sifted Indian meal. Boil a quart of milk with some
+pieces of cinnamon broken up; strain it, and while it is hot, stir
+in gradually the meal and suet; add half a pint of molasses. Cover
+the mixture and set it away for an hour; then put it to cool. Beat
+six eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture when it is
+cold; add a grated nutmeg, and the grated peel of a lemon. Tie the
+pudding in a cloth that has been dipped in hot water and floured;
+and leave plenty of room for it to swell. Secure it well at the
+tying place lest the water should get in, which will infallibly
+spoil it. Put it into a pot of boiling water, (which must be
+replenished as it boils away,) and boil it four hours at least;
+but five or six will be better. To have an Indian pudding _very
+good_, it should be mixed the night before, (all except the
+eggs,) and put on to boil early in the morning. Do not take it out
+of the pot till immediately before it is wanted. Eat it with wine
+sauce, or with molasses and butter.
+
+
+INDIAN PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS.
+
+Boil some cinnamon in a quart of milk, and then strain it. While
+the milk is hot, stir into it a pint of molasses, and then add by
+degrees a quart or more of Indian meal so as to make a thick
+batter. It will be much improved by the grated peel and juice of a
+large lemon or orange. Tie it very securely in a thick cloth,
+leaving room for it to swell, and pasting up the tying-place with
+a lump of flour and water. Put it into a pot of boiling water,
+(having ready a kettle to fill it up as it boils away,) hang it
+over a good fire, and keep it boiling hard for four or five hours.
+Eat it warm with molasses and butter.
+
+This is a very economical, and not an unpalatable pudding; and may
+be found convenient when it is difficult to obtain eggs.
+
+
+A BAKED PLUM PUDDING.
+
+Grate all the crumb of a stale six cent loaf; boil a quart of rich
+milk, and pour it boiling hot over the grated bread; cover it, and
+let it steep for an hour; then set it out to cool. In the mean
+time prepare half a pound of currants, picked, washed, and dried;
+half a pound of raisins, stoned and cut in half; and a quarter of
+a pound of citron cut in large slips; also, two nutmegs beaten to
+a powder; and a table-spoonful of mace and cinnamon powdered and
+mixed together. Crush with a rolling-pin half a pound of sugar,
+and cut up half a pound of butter. When the bread and milk is
+uncovered to cool, mix with it the butter, sugar, spice and
+citron; adding a glass of brandy, and a glass of white wine. Beat
+eight eggs very light, and when the milk is quite cold, stir them
+gradually into the mixture. Then add, by degrees, the raisins and
+currants, (which must be previously dredged with flour) and stir
+the whole very hard. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake it two
+hours. Send it to table warm, and eat it with wine sauce, or with
+wine and sugar only.
+
+In making this pudding, you may substitute for the butter, half a
+pound of beef suet minced as fine as possible. It will be found
+best to prepare the ingredients the day before, covering them
+closely and putting them away.
+
+
+A BOILED PLUM PUDDING.
+
+Grate the crumb of a twelve cent loaf of bread, and boil a quart
+of rich milk with a small bunch of peach leaves in it, then strain
+it and set it out to cool. Pick, wash and dry a pound of currants,
+and stone and cut in half a pound of raisins; strew over them
+three large table-spoonfuls of flour. Roll fine a pound of brown
+sugar, and mince as fine as possible three quarters of a pound of
+beef suet. Prepare two beaten nutmegs, and a large table-spoonful
+of powdered mace and cinnamon; also the grated peel and the juice
+of two large lemons or oranges. Beat ten eggs very light, and
+(when it is cold) stir them gradually into the milk, alternately
+with the suet and grated bread.
+
+Add, by degrees, the sugar, fruit, and spice, with a large glass
+of brandy, and one of white wine. Mix the whole very well, and
+stir it hard. Then put it into a thick cloth that has been scalded
+and floured; leave room for it to swell, and tie it very firmly,
+pasting the tying-place with a small lump of moistened flour. Put
+the pudding into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it
+steadily five hours, replenishing the pot occasionally from a
+boiling kettle. Turn the pudding frequently in the pot. Prepare
+half a pound of citron cut in slips, and half a pound of almonds
+blanched and split in half lengthways. Stick the almonds and the
+citron all over the outside of the pudding as soon as you take it
+out of the cloth. Send it to table hot, and eat it with wine
+sauce, or with cold wine and sugar.
+
+If there is enough of the pudding left, it may be cut in slices,
+and fried in butter next day.
+
+All the ingredients of this plum pudding (except the eggs) should
+be prepared the day before, otherwise it cannot be made in time to
+allow of its being sufficiently boiled.
+
+We have known of a very rich plum pudding being mixed in England
+and sent to America in a covered bowl; it arrived perfectly good
+after a month's voyage, the season being winter.
+
+
+A BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
+
+Take nine large pippin apples; pare and core them whole. Set them
+in the bottom of a large deep dish, and pour round them a very
+little water, just enough to keep them from burning. Put them into
+an oven, and let them bake about half an hour. In the mean time,
+mix three table-spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, a quarter
+of a pound of brown sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice. Beat
+seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the milk. Then
+take out the dish of apples, (which by this time should be half
+baked,) and fill up the holes from whence you extracted the cores,
+with brown sugar; pressing down into each a slice of fresh lemon.
+Pour the batter round the apples; put the dish again into the
+oven, and let it bake another half hour; but not long enough for
+the apples to fall to pieces; as they should, when done, be soft
+throughout, but quite whole. Send it to table warm.
+
+This is sometimes called a _Bird's Nest Pudding_.
+
+It will be much improved by previously boiling in the milk a small
+handful of peach leaves. Let it get cold before you stir in the
+eggs.
+
+
+BOILED APPLE PUDDING.
+
+Pare, core, and quarter as many fine juicy apples as will weigh
+two pounds when done. Strew among them a quarter of a pound of
+brown sugar, and add a grated nutmeg, and the juice and yellow
+peel of a large lemon. Prepare a paste of suet and flour, in the
+proportion of a pound of chopped suet to two pounds of flour. Roll
+it out of moderate thickness; lay the apples in the centre, and
+close the paste nicely over them in the form of a large dumpling;
+tie it in a cloth and boil it three hours. Send it to table hot,
+and eat with it cream sauce, or with butter and sugar.
+
+Any fruit pudding may be made in a similar manner.
+
+
+AN EASTERN PUDDING.
+
+Make a paste of a pound of flour and half a pound of minced suet;
+and roll it out thin into a square or oblong sheet; trim off the
+edges so as to make it an even shape. Spread thickly over it some
+marmalade, or cold stewed fruit, (which must be made very sweet,)
+either apple, peach, plum, gooseberry or cranberry. Roll up the
+paste, with the fruit spread on it, into a scroll. Secure each end
+by putting on nicely a thin round piece rolled out from the
+trimmings that you cut off the edges of the sheet. Put the pudding
+into a cloth, and boil it at least three hours. Serve it up hot,
+and eat it with cream sauce, or with butter and sugar.
+
+
+APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take large fine juicy apples. Pare them, and extract the cores
+without dividing the apple. Fill each hole with brown sugar, and
+some chips of lemon peel. Also squeeze in some lemon juice. Or you
+may fill the cavities with raspberry jam, or with any sort of
+marmalade. Have ready a paste, made in the proportion of a pound
+of suet, chopped as fine as possible, to two pounds and a half of
+sifted flour, well mixed, and wetted with as little water as
+possible. Roll out the paste to a moderate thickness, and cut it
+into circular pieces, allowing two pieces to each dumpling. Lay
+your apple on one piece, and put another piece on the top, closing
+the paste round the sides with your fingers, so as to cover the
+apple entirely. This is a better way than gathering up the paste
+at one end, as the dumpling is less liable to burst. Boil each
+dumpling in a small coarse cloth, which has first been dipped in
+hot water. There should always be a set of cloths kept for the
+purpose. Tie them tightly, leaving a small space for the dumpling
+to swell. Plaster a little flour on the inside of each tying place
+to prevent the water from getting in. Have ready a pot of boiling
+water. Put in the dumplings and boil them from three quarters to
+an hour. Send them to table hot in a covered dish. Do not take
+them up till a moment before they are wanted.
+
+Eat them with cream and sugar, or with butter and sugar.
+
+You may make the paste with butter instead of suet, allowing a
+pound of butter to two pounds and a quarter of flour. But when
+paste is to be boiled, suet will make it much lighter and finer
+than butter.
+
+Apple dumplings may be made in a very plain manner with potato
+paste, and boiled without cloths, dredging the outside of each
+dumpling with flour. They should boil about three quarters of an
+hour when without cloths.
+
+The apples for dumplings should always be whole, (except the
+cores;) for if quartered, the pieces will separate in boiling and
+break through the crust. The apples should never be sweet ones.
+
+
+RICE DUMPLINGS.
+
+Pick and wash a pound of rice, and boil it gently in two quarts of
+water till it becomes dry; keeping the pot well covered, and not
+stirring it. Then take it off the fire, and spread it out to cool
+on the bottom, of an inverted sieve; loosening the grains lightly
+with a fork, that all the moisture may evaporate. Pare a dozen
+pippins or other, large juicy apples, and scoop out the core. Then
+fill up the cavity with marmalade, or with lemon and sugar. Cover
+every apple all over with a thick coating of the boiled rice. Tie
+up each in a separate, cloth, [Footnote: Your pudding and dumpling
+cloths should be squares of coarse thick linen, hemmed, and with
+tape strings sewed to them. After using, they should be washed,
+dried, and ironed; and kept in one of the kitchen drawers, that
+they may be always ready when wanted.] and put them into a pot of
+cold water. They will require about an hour and a quarter after
+they begin to boil; perhaps longer.
+
+Turn them out on a large dish, and be careful in doing so not to
+break the dumplings. Eat them with cream sauce, or with wine
+sauce, or with butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together.
+
+
+PIGEON DUMPLINGS OR PUDDINGS.
+
+Take four pigeons and stuff them with chopped oysters, seasoned
+with pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg. Score the breasts, and loosen
+all the joints with a sharp knife, as if you were going to carve
+them for eating; but do not cut them quite apart. Make a
+sufficient quantity of nice suet paste, allowing a pound of suet
+to two pounds of flour; roll it out thick, and divide it into
+four. Lay one pigeon on each sheet of the paste with the back
+downwards, and put at the lower part of the breast a piece of
+butter rolled in flour. Close the paste over the pigeon in the
+form of a dumpling or small pudding; pouring in at the last a very
+little cold water to add to the gravy. Tie each dumpling in a
+cloth, put them into a pot of hot water, and boil them two hours.
+Send them to table with made gravy in a boat.
+
+Partridges or quails may be cooked in this manner; also chickens,
+which must be accompanied by egg sauce. These dumplings or
+puddings will be found very good.
+
+
+FINE SUET DUMPLINGS.
+
+Grate the crumb of a stale six cent loaf, and mix it with nearly
+as much beef suet, chopped as fine as possible. Add a grated
+nutmeg, and two large table-spoonfuls of sugar. Beat four eggs
+with four table-spoonfuls of white wine or brandy. Mix all well
+together to a stiff paste. Flour your hands, and make up the
+mixture into balls or dumplings about the size of turkey eggs.
+Have ready a pot of boiling water. Put the dumplings into cloths,
+and let them boil about half an hour. Serve them hot, and eat them
+with wine sauce.
+
+
+PLAIN SUET DUMPLINGS.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and add a salt-spoon of salt.
+Mince very fine one pound of beef suet, and rub it into the flour.
+Make it into a stiff dough with a little cold water. Then roll it
+out an inch thick or rather more. Cut it into dumplings with the
+edge of a tumbler. Put them into a pot of boiling water, and let
+them boil an hour and a half. Send them to table hot, to eat with
+boiled loin of mutton, or with molasses after the meat is removed.
+
+
+INDIAN DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take a pint of milk, and four eggs well beaten. Stir them
+together, and add a salt-spoon of salt. Then mix in as much sifted
+Indian meal as will make a stiff dough. Flour your hands; divide
+the dough into equal portions, and make it into balls about the
+size of a goose egg. Flatten each with the rolling-pin, tie them
+in cloths, and put them into a pot of boiling water. They will
+boil in a short time. Take care not to let them go to pieces by
+keeping them too long in the pot.
+
+Serve them up hot, and eat them with corned pork, or with bacon.
+Or you may eat them with molasses and butter after the meat is
+removed.
+
+If to be eaten without meat, you may mix in the dough a quarter of
+a pound of finely chopped suet.
+
+
+LIVER DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take a calf's liver, and chop it very fine. Mix with it half a
+pound of beef suet chopped line also; half a pound of flour; two
+minced onions; a handful of bread-crumbs; a table-spoonful of
+chopped parsley and sweet marjoram mixed; a few blades of mace and
+a few cloves powdered; and a little pepper and salt. Mix all well
+together. Wet the mixture with six eggs well beaten, and make it
+up into dumplings, with your hands well floured. Have ready a
+large pot of boiling water. Drop the dumplings into it with a
+ladle, and let them boil an hour. Have ready bread-crumbs browned
+in butter to poor over them before they go to table.
+
+
+HAM DUMPLINGS.
+
+Chop some cold ham, the fat and lean in equal proportions. Season
+it with pepper and minced sage. Make a crust, allowing half a
+pound of chopped suet; or half a pound of butter to a pound of
+flour. Roll it out thick, and divide it into equal portions. Put
+some minced ham into each, and close up the crust. Have ready a
+pot of boiling water, and put in the dumplings. Boil them about
+three quarters of an hour.
+
+
+LIGHT DUMPLINGS.
+
+Mix together as much grated bread, butter and beaten egg (seasoned
+with powdered cinnamon) as will make a stiff paste. Stir it well.
+Make the mixture into round dumplings, with your hands well
+floured. Tie up each in a separate cloth, and boil them a short
+time,--about fifteen minutes. Eat them with wine sauce, or with
+molasses and butter.
+
+
+PLAIN FRITTERS.
+
+Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a quart
+of milk; add, by degrees, three quarters of a pound, or a pint and
+a half of sifted flour. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready in a
+frying-pan over the fire, a large quantity of lard. When the lard
+has come to a hard boil, begin to put in the fritters; allowing
+for each about a jill of batter, or half a large tea-cup full.
+They do not require turning, and will be done in a few minutes.
+Fry as many at a time as the pan will hold. Send them to table
+hot, and eat them with powdered cinnamon, sugar, and white wine.
+Let fresh hot ones be sent in as they are wanted; they chill and
+become heavy immediately.
+
+Begin to fry the fritters as soon as the batter is mixed, as it
+will fall by setting. Near a pound and a half of lard will be
+required for the above quantity of fritters.
+
+
+APPLE FRITTERS.
+
+Pave, core, and parboil (in a very little water) some large juicy
+pippins. When half done, take them out, drain them, and mince them
+very fine. Make a batter according to the preceding receipt;
+adding some lemon juice and grated lemon-peel. Stir into the
+batter a sufficient quantity of the minced apple to make it very
+thick. Then fry the fritters in hot lard as before directed. Eat
+them with nutmeg and sugar.
+
+
+PLAIN PANCAKES.
+
+Sift half a pound or a pint of flour. Beat seven eggs very light,
+and stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk. Then add by
+degrees the flour, so as to make a thin batter. Mix it very
+smooth, pressing out all the lumps with the back of a spoon. Set
+the frying-pan over the fire, and when it is hot, grease it with a
+spoonful of lard. Then put in a ladle full of the batter, and fry
+it of a light brown, turning it with care to prevent its breaking.
+Make each pancake large enough to cover the bottom of a dessert
+plate; greasing the pan every time. Send them to table hot,
+accompanied by powdered sugar and nutmeg mixed in a small glass
+bowl. Have wine with them also.
+
+
+SWEETMEAT PANCAKES.
+
+Take a large red beet-root that has been boiled tender; cut it up
+and pound it in a mortar till you have sufficient juice for
+colouring the pancakes. Then make a batter as in the preceding
+receipt, and stir into it at the last enough of the beet juice to
+give it a fine pink colour. Or instead of the beet juice, you may
+use a little cochineal dissolved in a very small quantity of
+brandy. Fry the pancakes in a pan greased with lard or fresh
+butter; and as fast as they are done, spread thickly over them
+raspberry jam or any sort of marmalade. Then roll them up nicely,
+and trim off the ends. Lay them, side by side, on a large dish,
+and strew powdered sugar over them. Send them to table hot, and
+eat them with sweetened cream.
+
+
+PLAIN CUSTARDS.
+
+Tie together six or eight peach leaves, and boil them in a quart
+of milk with a large stick of cinnamon broken up. If you cannot
+procure peach leaves, substitute a handful of peach-kernels or
+bitter almonds, or a vanilla bean split in pieces. When it has
+boiled hard, strain the milk and set it away to cool. Beat very
+light eight eggs, and stir them by degrees into the milk when it
+is quite cold, (if warm, the eggs will curdle it, and cause whey
+at the bottom,) and add gradually a quarter of a pound of sugar.
+Fill your cups with it; set them in a Dutch-oven, and pour round
+them boiling water sufficient to reach nearly to the tops of the
+cups. Put hot coals under the oven and on the lid, (which must be
+previously heated by standing it up before a hot fire,) and bake
+the custards about twenty minutes. Send them to table cold, with
+nutmeg grated over each. Or you may bake the whole in one large
+dish.
+
+
+SOFT CUSTARDS.
+
+Are made in the above manner, except that to a quart of milk you
+must have twelve yolks of eggs, and no whites. You may devote to
+this purpose the yolks that are left when you have used the whites
+for cocoa-nut or almond puddings, or for lady cake or maccaroons.
+
+BOILED CUSTARDS.
+
+Beat eight eggs very light, omitting the whites of four. Mix them
+gradually with a quart of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of
+sugar. Put the mixture into a sauce-pan with a bunch of peach
+leaves, or a handful of broken up peach-kernels or bitter almonds;
+the yellow peel of a. lemon, and a handful of broken cinnamon; or
+you may boil in it a vanilla bean. Set it on hot coals, and
+simmer it slowly, stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes to
+a boil, take it immediately off the fire, or it will curdle and be
+lumpy. Then strain it; add eight or ten drops of oil of lemon, and
+put it into glass cups. You may lay in the bottom of each cup a
+maccaroon soaked in wine. Grate nutmeg over the top, and send it
+to table cold. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.
+
+
+RICE CUSTARD.
+
+Boil some rice in milk till it is quite dry; then
+put it into small tea-cups, (pressing it down hard,) and when it
+is cold and has taken the shape of the cups, turn it out into a
+deep dish, and pour a boiled custard round it. Lay on the top of
+each lump of rice a piece of preserved quince or peach, or a piece
+of fruit jelly. In boiling the rice, you may mix with, it raisins
+or currants; if so, omit the sweetmeats on the top.
+
+Another way of boiling custard is to put the mixture into a
+pitches, set it in a vessel of boiling water, place it on hot
+coals or in a stove, and let it boil slowly, stirring it all the
+time.
+
+
+SNOWBALL CUSTARD.
+
+Make a boiled custard as in the preceding receipts; and when it is
+done and quite cold, put it into a deep glass dish. Beat to a
+stiff froth the four whites of eggs that have been omitted in the
+custard, adding eight or ten drops of oil of lemon. Drop the froth
+in balls on the top of the dish of custard, heaping and forming
+them with a spoon into a regular size and shape. Do not let them
+touch each other. You may lay a fresh, rose leaf on the top of
+every one.
+
+APPLE CUSTARD.
+
+Pare, core, and quarter a dozen large juicy pippins. Strew among
+them the yellow peel of a large lemon pared very thin; and stew
+them till tender, in a very small portion of water. When done,
+mash them smooth with the back of a spoon; (you must have a pint
+and a half of the stewed apple;) mix a quarter of a pound of sugar
+with them, and set them away till cold. Beat six eggs very light,
+and stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk, alternately
+with the stewed apple. Put the mixture into cups, or into a deep
+dish, and bake it about twenty minutes. Send it to table cold,
+with nutmeg grated over the top.
+
+
+LEMON CUSTARD.
+
+Take four large ripe lemons, and roll them under
+your hand on the table to increase the juice. Then squeeze them
+into a bowl, and mix with the juice a very small tea-cup full of
+cold water. Use none of the peel. Add gradually sufficient sugar
+to make it very sweet. Beat twelve eggs till quite light, and then
+stir the lemon juice gradually into them, beating very hard at the
+last. Put the mixture into cups, and bake it ten minutes. When
+done, grate nutmeg over the top of each, and set them among ice,
+or in a very cold place.
+
+These custards being made without milk, can be prepared at a short
+notice; they will be found very fine.
+
+Orange custards may be made in the same manner.
+
+
+GOOSEBERRY CUSTARD.
+
+Top and tail two quarts of green gooseberries. Stew them in a very
+little water; stirring and mashing them frequently. When they have
+stewed till entirely to pieces, take them out, and with a wooden
+spoon press the pulp through a cullender. Stir in (while the pulp
+is hot) a table-spoonful of butter, and sufficient sugar to make
+it very sweet. Beat six eggs very light. Simmer the gooseberry
+pulp over a gentle fire, and gradually stir the beaten eggs into
+it. When it comes to a boil, take it off immediately, stir it
+very hard, and set it out to cool. Serve it up cold in glasses or
+custard cups, grating some nutmeg; over each.
+
+
+ALMOND CUSTARD.
+
+Scald and blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three
+ounces of shelled bitter almonds; throwing them as you do them
+into a large bowl of cold water. Then pound them one at a time in
+a mortar; pouring in frequently a little rose water to prevent
+their oiling, and becoming dark-coloured and heavy. Melt a quarter
+of a pound of loaf-sugar in a quart of cream or rich milk, and
+stir in by degrees the pounded almonds. Beat ten eggs very light,
+and stir them gradually into the mixture; adding a powdered
+nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed.
+Then put the whole into a pitcher, and place it in a kettle or pan
+of boiling water, the water coming up to the lower part of the
+neck of the pitcher. Set it over hot coals, and let it boil
+(stirring it all the time) till it is quite thick, but not till it
+curdles. Then take the pitcher out of the water; pour the custard
+into a large bowl, and stir it till it cools. Put it into glass
+cups, and send it to table cold. Sweeten some cream or white of
+egg. Beat it to stiff froth, and pile it on the top of the
+custards.
+
+
+BOILED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.
+
+To a pound of grated cocoa-nut allow a pint of unskimmed milk, and
+six ounces of white sugar. Beat very light the yolks of six eggs.
+Stir them gradually into the milk, alternately with the cocoa-nut
+and sugar. Put the mixture into a pitcher; set it in a vessel of
+boiling water; place it on hot coals, and simmer it till it is
+very smooth and thick; stirring it all the time. As soon as it
+comes to a hard boil, take it off the fire; pour it into a large
+bowl, and set it out to cool. When cold, put it into glass cups.
+Beat to a stiff froth the white of egg that was left, and pile it
+on the custards.
+
+
+BAKED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.
+
+Grate as much cocoa-nut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of
+powdered white sugar with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or with a
+pint of cream; adding two table-spoonfuls of rose water. Then stir
+in gradually a pint of rich milk. Beat to a stiff froth the whites
+of eight eggs, and stir them into the milk and sugar, a little at
+a time, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut; add a tea-spoonful
+of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon. Then put the mixture into cups,
+and bake them twenty minutes in a Dutch oven half filled with
+boiling water. When cold, grate loaf-sugar over them.
+
+
+CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.
+
+Scrape fine a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, and pour
+on it a tea-cup of boiling water. Cover it, and let it stand by
+the fire till it has dissolved, stirring it twice. Beat eight eggs
+very light, omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into
+a quart of cream or rich milk, alternately with the melted
+chocolate, and three table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Pat
+the mixture into cups, and bake it about ten minutes. Send them to
+table cold, with sweetened cream, or white of egg beaten to a
+stiff froth, and heaped on the top of each custard.
+
+
+MACCAROON CUSTARDS.
+
+These must he made in china custard cups. Put a maccaroon in the
+bottom of each cup, and pour on it a table-spoonful of white wine.
+Mix together a pint of cream, and a pint of milk; and boil them
+with a large stick of cinnamon broken up, and a small bunch of
+peach leaves or a handful of broken bitter almonds. Then strain
+the milk; stir in a quarter of a pound of white sugar, and set it
+away to cool. Beat very light eight eggs, (omitting the whites of
+four,) and stir them gradually into the cream and milk when quite
+cold. Fill your cups with the mixture, (leaving the maccaroons at
+the bottom,) and set them in a Dutch oven or iron baking pan,
+which must be half full of boiling water. Heat the oven-lid first,
+by standing it up before a hot fire; then put it on, spreading
+coals over the top. Place sufficient coals under the oven, and
+bake the custards about ten minutes. When cold, heap beaten white
+of egg on the top of each. These custards are very fine.
+
+
+SYLLABUB, OR WHIPT CREAM.
+
+Pare off very thin the yellow rind of four large lemons, And lay
+it in the bottom of a deep dish. Squeeze the juice of the lemons
+into a large bowl containing a pint of white wine, and sweeten it
+with half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar Then, by degrees, mix in
+a quart of cream. Pour the whole into the dish in which you have
+laid the lemon-peel, and let the mixture stand untouched for three
+hours. Then beat it with rods to a stiff froth, (first taking out
+the lemon-peel,) and having put into each of your glasses a table-spoonful
+or more of fruit jelly, heap the syllabub upon it so as
+to stand up high at the top. This syllabub, if it can be kept in a
+cold place, may be made the day before you want to use it.
+
+
+COUNTRY SYLLABUB.
+
+Mix half a pound of white sugar with a pint of fine sweet cider,
+or of white wine; and grate in a nutmeg. Prepare them in a large
+bowl, just before milking time. Then let it be taken to the cow,
+and have about three pints milked into it; stirring it
+occasionally with a spoon. Let it be eaten before the froth
+subsides. If you use cider, a little brandy will improve it.
+
+
+A TRIFLE.
+
+Place half a pound of maccaroons or Naples biscuits at the bottom
+of a large glass bowl. Pour on them as much white wine as will
+cover and dissolve them. Make a rich custard, flavoured with
+bitter almonds or peach leaves; and pour it when cold on the
+maccaroons; the custard may be either baked or boiled. Then add a
+layer of marmalade or jam. Take a quart of cream, mix with it a
+quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a pint of white wine, and
+whip it with rods to a stiff froth; laying the froth (as you
+proceed) on an inverted sieve, with a dish under it to catch the
+cream that drips through; which must be saved and whipped over
+again. Instead of rods you may use a little tin churn. Pile the
+frothed cream upon the marmalade in a high pyramid. To ornament
+it,--take preserved water-melon rind that has been cut into leaves
+or flowers; split them nicely to make them thinner and lighter;
+place a circle or wreath of them round the heap of frothed cream,
+interspersing them with spots of stiff red currant jelly. Stick on
+the top of the pyramid a sprig of real flowers.
+
+
+FLOATING ISLAND.
+
+Take a quart of rich cream, and divide it in half. Sweeten one
+pint of it with loaf-sugar, and stir into it sufficient currant
+jelly to colour it of a fine pink. Put it into a glass bowl, and
+place in the centre a pile of sliced almond-sponge cake, or of
+lady cake; every slice spread thickly with raspberry jam or
+marmalade, and laid evenly one on another. Have ready the other
+pint of cream, flavoured with a few drops of oil of lemon, and
+beaten with rods to a stiff froth. Heap it all over the pile of
+cake, so as entirely to cover it.
+
+
+A RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE.
+
+Take a dozen of the square or oblong sponge-cakes that are
+commonly called Naples biscuits. They should be quite fresh.
+Spread over each a thick layer of raspberry jam, and place them in
+the bottom and round the sides of a glass bowl. Take the whites of
+six eggs, and mix with them six table-spoonfuls of raspberry or
+currant jelly. Beat the egg and jelly with rods till very light,
+and then fill up the bowl with it. For this purpose, cream (if you
+can conveniently procure it) is still better than white of egg.
+
+You may make a charlotte with any sort of jam, marmalade, or fruit
+jelly. It can be prepared at a short notice, and is very generally
+liked.
+
+
+A PLUM CHARLOTTE.
+
+Stone a quart of ripe plums, and stew them with a pound of brown
+sugar. Cut slices of bread and butter and lay them in the bottom
+and round the sides of a large bowl or deep dish. Pour in the
+plums boiling hot, cover the bowl, and set it away to cool
+gradually. When, quite cold, send it to table, and eat it with
+cream.
+
+
+CLOTTED CREAM.
+
+Mix together a jill of rich milk, a large wine glass of rose
+water, and four ounces of white sugar. Add to it the beaten yolks
+of two eggs. Stir the mixture into a quart of the best cream; set
+it over hot coals, and let it just come to a boil, stirring it all
+the time. Then take it off, pour it into a glass bowl, and set it
+away to get cold. Eat it with fresh strawberries, raspberries, or
+with any sort of sweetmeats.
+
+
+LEMON CREAM.
+
+Beat well together a quart of thick cream and the yolks of eight
+eggs. Then gradually beat in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar,
+and the grated rind of three large lemons. Put the mixture into a
+porcelain skillet, and set it on hot coals till it comes to a
+boil; then take it off, and stir it till nearly cold. Squeeze the
+juice of the lemons into a bowl; pour the cream upon it, and
+continue to stir it till quite cold. You may serve it up in a
+glass bowl, in glass cups, or in jelly glasses. Eat it with tarts
+or sweetmeats.
+
+
+ORANGE CREAM.
+
+Beat very light six eggs, omitting the whites of two. Have ready a
+pint of orange juice, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg,
+alternately with a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put into a
+porcelain skillet the yellow rind of one orange, pared very thin;
+pour the mixture upon it, and set it over a slow fire. Simmer it
+steadily, stirring it all the time; but when nearly ready to boil,
+take it off, remove the orange-peel, and put the mixture into
+glasses to get cold.
+
+
+CURDS AND WHEY.
+
+Take a piece of rennet about three inches square, and wash it in
+two or three cold waters to get off the salt; wipe it dry, and
+fasten a string to one corner of it. Have ready in a deep dish or
+pan, a quart of unskimmed milk that has been warmed but not
+boiled. Put the rennet into it, leaving the string hanging out
+over the side, that you may know where to find it. Cover the pan,
+and set it by the fire-side or in some other warm place. When the
+milk becomes a firm mass of curd, and the whey looks clear and
+greenish, remove the rennet as gently as possible, pulling it out
+by the string; and set the pan in ice, or in a very cold place.
+Send to table with it a small pitcher of white wine, sugar and
+nutmeg mixed together; or a bowl of sweetened cream, with nutmeg
+grated over it.
+
+You may keep rennet in white wine; cutting it in small pieces, and
+putting it into a glass jar with wine enough to cover it well.
+Either the wine or the rennet will be found good for turning milk;
+but do not put in both together, or the curd will become so hard
+and tough, as to be uneatable.
+
+Rennets properly prepared and dried, are sold constantly in the
+Philadelphia markets. The cost is trifling; and it is well to have
+one always in the house, in case of being wanted to make whey for
+sick persons. They will keep a year or more.
+
+
+LEMON ICE CREAM.
+
+Have ready two quarts of very rich thick cream, and take out a
+pint. Stir gradually into the pint, a pound of the best loaf-sugar
+powdered fine; and the grated rind and the juice of four ripe
+lemons of the largest size, or of five or six smaller ones. If you
+cannot procure the fruit, you may flavour the cream with essence
+or oil of lemon; a tea-spoonful or more, according to its
+strength. The strongest and best essence of lemon is the white or
+whitish; when tinged with green, it is comparatively weak, having
+been diluted with water; if quite green, a large tea-spoonful will
+not communicate as much flavour as five or six drops of the white.
+After you have mixed the pint of cream with the sugar and lemon,
+beat it gradually and hard into the remaining cream, that is, the
+three pints. Cover it, and let it stand to infuse from half an
+hour to an hour. Then taste it, and if you think it necessary,
+stir in a little more lemon juice or a little more sugar. Strain
+it into the freezer through a fine strainer, (a tin one with small
+close holes is best,) to get rid of the grated lemon-peel, which
+if left in would prevent the cream from being smooth. Cover the
+freezer, and stand it in the ice cream tub, which should be filled
+with a mixture, in equal quantities, of coarse salt, and ice
+broken up as small as possible, that it may lie close and compact
+round the freezer, and thus add to its coldness. Snow, when it can
+be procured, is still better than ice to mix with the salt. It
+should be packed closely into the tub, and pressed down hard. Keep
+turning the freezer about by the handle till the cream is frozen,
+which it will generally be in two hours. Occasionally open the lid
+and scrape down the cream from the sides with a long-handled tin
+spoon. Take care that no salt gets in, or the cream will be
+spoiled. When it is entirely frozen, take it out of the freezer
+and put it into your mould; set it again in the tub, (which must
+be filled with fresh ice and salt,) and leave it undisturbed till
+you want it for immediate use. This second freezing, however,
+should not continue longer than two hours, or the cream will
+become inconveniently and unpleasantly hard, and have much of the
+flavour frozen out of it. Place the mould in the ice tub, with the
+head downwards, and cover the tub with pieces of old carpet while
+the second freezing is going on. When it has arrived at the proper
+consistence, and it is time to serve it up, dip a cloth in hot
+water, and wrap it round the mould for a few moments, to loosen
+the cream and make it come out easily; setting the mould on a
+glass or china dish. If a pyramid or obelisk mould, lift it
+carefully off the top. If the mould or form represents doves,
+dolphins, lap-dogs, fruit baskets, &c. it will open down the
+middle, and must be taken off in that manner. Serve it up
+immediately lest it begin to melt. Send round sponge-cake with it,
+and wine or cordials immediately after.
+
+If you have no moulds, but intend serving it up in a large bowl or
+in glasses, it must still be frozen twice over; otherwise it can
+have no smoothness, delicacy, or consistence, but will be rough
+and coarse, and feel in the mouth like broken icicles. The second
+freezing (if you have no mould) must be done in the freezer, which
+should be washed out, and set again in the tub with fresh ice and
+salt. Cover it closely, and let the cream stand in it untouched,
+but not less than two hours. When you put it into glasses, heap it
+high on the top.
+
+Begin to make ice cream about five or six hours before it is
+wanted for use. If you commence it too early, it may probably be
+injured by having to remain too long in the second freezing, as it
+must not be turned out till a few moments before it is served up.
+In damp weather it requires a longer time to freeze.
+
+If cream is scarce, mix with it an equal quantity of rich milk,
+and then add, for each quart, two table-spoonfuls of powdered
+arrow-root rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Orange ice cream
+is made in the same manner as lemon.
+
+
+STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.
+
+Take two quarts of ripe strawberries; hull them, and put them into
+a deep dish, strewing among them half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
+Cover them, and let them stand an hour or two. Then mash
+them through a sieve till you have pressed out all the juice, and
+stir into it half a pound more of powdered sugar, or enough to
+make it very sweet, and like a thick syrup. Then mix it by degrees
+with two quarts of rich cream, beating it in very hard. Put it
+into a freezer, and proceed as in the foregoing receipt. In two
+hours, remove it to a mould, or take it out and return it again to
+the freezer with fresh salt and ice, that it may be frozen a
+second time. In two hours more, it should be ready to turn out.
+
+
+RASPBERRY ICE CREAM.
+
+Is made according to the preceding receipt.
+
+
+PINE-APPLE ICE CREAM.
+
+To each quart of cream allow a large ripe pine-apple, and a pound
+of powdered loaf-sugar. Pare the pine-apple, slice it very thin,
+and mince it small. Lay it in a deep dish and strew the sugar
+among it. Cover the dish, and let the pine-apple lie in the sugar
+for two or three hours. Then strain it through a sieve, mashing
+and pressing out all the juice. Stir the juice gradually into the
+cream, beating it hard. Put it into the freezer, and let it be
+twice frozen before it is served up.
+
+
+VANILLA ICE CREAM.
+
+Split up half a vanilla bean, and boil it slowly in half a pint of
+milk till all the flavour is drawn out, which you may know by
+tasting it. Then mix into the milk half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar,
+and stir it very hard into a quart of rich cream. Put it
+into the freezer, and proceed as directed in the receipt for Lemon
+Ice Cream; freezing it twice.
+
+
+ALMOND ICE CREAM.
+
+Take six ounces of bitter almonds, (sweet ones will not do,)
+blanch them, and pound them in a mortar, adding by degrees a
+little rose water. Then boil them gently in a pint of cream till
+you find that it is highly flavoured with them. Then pour the
+cream into a bowl, stir in a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, cover
+it, and set it away to cool gradually; when it is cold, strain it
+and then stir it gradually and hard into three pints of cream. Put
+it into the freezer, and proceed as directed in the first ice
+cream receipt. Freeze it twice. It will be found very fine.
+
+Send round always with ice cream, sponge cake or Savoy biscuits.
+Afterwards wine, and cordials, or liqueurs as they are now
+generally called.
+
+
+ICE ORANGEADE.
+
+Take a pint and a half of orange juice, and mix it with half a
+pint of clear or filtered water. Stir in half a pound of powdered
+loaf-sugar. Pare very thin the yellow rind of six deep-coloured
+oranges, cut in pieces, and lay it at the bottom of a bowl or
+tureen. Pour the orange juice and sugar upon it; cover it, and let
+it infuse an hour. Then strain the liquid into a freezer, and
+proceed as for ice cream. When it is frozen, put it into a mould,
+(it will look best in the form of a pine-apple,) and freeze it a
+second time. Serve it in glass cups, with any sort of very nice
+sweet cakes.
+
+
+ICE LEMONADE.
+
+May be made in the above manner, but with a larger proportion of
+sugar.
+
+The juice of pine-apples, strawberries, raspberries, currants and
+cherries, may be prepared and frozen according to the above
+receipts. They will freeze in a shorter time than if mixed with
+cream, but are very inferior in richness.
+
+
+BLANC-MANGE.
+
+Put into a bowl an ounce of isinglass; (in warm weather you must
+take an ounce and a quarter;) pour on as much rose water as will
+cover the isinglass, and set it on hot ashes to dissolve.
+[Footnote: You may make the stock for blanc-mange without
+isinglass, by boiling four calves' feet in two quarts of water
+till reduced one half, and till the meat is entirely to rags.
+Strain it, and set it away till next day. Then clear it from the
+fat and sediment; cut it into pieces and boil it with the cream
+and the other ingredients. When you take it from the fire, and
+strain it into the pitcher, keep stirring it till it gets cold.]
+Blanch a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, (half sweet and
+half bitter,) and beat them to a paste in a mortar, (one at a
+time,) moistening them all the while with a little rose water.
+Stir the almonds by degrees into a quart of cream, alternately
+with half a pound of powdered white sugar; add a large tea-spoonful
+of beaten mace. Put in the melted isinglass, and stir the
+whole very hard. Then put it into a porcelain skillet, and let it
+boil fast for a quarter of an hour. Then strain it into a pitcher,
+and pour it into your moulds, which must first be wetted with cold
+water. Let it stand in a cool place undisturbed, till it has
+entirely congealed, which will be in about five hours. Then wrap a
+cloth dipped in hot water round the moulds, loosen the blanc-mange
+round the edges with a knife, and turn it out into glass dishes.
+It is best to make it the day before it is wanted.
+
+Instead of using a figure-mould, you may set it to congeal in tea-cups
+or wine glasses.
+
+Blanc-mange may be coloured green by mixing with the cream a
+little juice of spinage; cochineal which has been infused in a
+little brandy for half an hour, will colour it red; and saffron
+will give it a bright yellow tinge.
+
+
+CARRAGEEN BLANC-MANGE.
+
+This is made of a sea-weed resembling moss, that is found in large
+quantities on some parts of our coast, and is to be purchased in
+the cities at most of the druggists. Carrageen costs but little,
+and is considered extremely salutary for persons of delicate
+constitutions. Its glutinous nature when boiled, renders it very
+suitable for blanc-mange.
+
+From a quart of rich unskimmed milk take half a pint. Add to the
+half pint two ounces of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded; half
+a nutmeg; and a large stick of cinnamon, broken up; also eight or
+nine blades of mace. Set it in a closed pan over hot coals, and
+boil it half an hour. In the mean time, wash through two or three
+_cold_ waters half a handful of carrageen, (if you put in too
+much it will communicate an unpleasant taste to the blanc-mange,)
+and add it to the pint and a half of cold milk. Then when it is
+sufficiently flavoured, stir in the boiled milk, adding gradually
+half a pound of powdered sugar, and mix the whole very well. Set
+it over the fire, and keep it boiling hard five minutes from the
+time it has come to a boil. Then strain it into a pitcher; wet
+your moulds or cups with cold water, put the blanc-mange into
+them, and leave it undisturbed till it congeals.
+
+After washing the sea-weed, you must drain it well, and shake the
+water from the sprigs. You may flavour the mixture (_after_
+it is boiled and strained) with rose-water or peach-water, stirred
+in at the last.
+
+
+ARROW ROOT BLANC-MANGE.
+
+Take a tea-cup full of arrow root, put it into a large bowl, and
+dissolve it in a little cold water. When it is melted, pour off
+the water, and let the arrow root remain undisturbed. Boil in half
+a pint of unskimmed milk, (made very sweet with white sugar,) a
+beaten nutmeg, and eight or nine blades of mace, mixed with the
+juice and grated peel of a lemon. When it has boiled long enough
+to be highly flavoured, strain it into a pint and a half of very
+rich milk or cream, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar. Boil
+the whole for ten minutes; then strain it, boiling hot, over the
+arrow roof. Stir it well and frequently till cold; then put it
+into moulds and let it set to congeal.
+
+
+JAUNE-MANGE.
+
+Put two ounces of isinglass into a pint of water, and boil it till
+it has dissolved. Then strain it into a porcelain skillet, and add
+to it half a pint of white wine; the grated peel and juice of two
+large deep-coloured oranges; half a pound of loaf-sugar; and the
+yolks only of eight eggs that have been well beaten. Mix the whole
+thoroughly; place it on hot coals and simmer it, stirring it all
+the time till it boils hard. Then take it off directly, strain it,
+and put it into moulds to congeal.
+
+
+CALVES' FOOT JELLY.
+
+The best calves' feet for jelly are those that have had the hair
+removed by scalding, but are not skinned; the skin containing a
+great deal of glutinous matter. In Philadelphia, unskinned calves'
+feet are generally to be met with in the lower or Jersey market.
+
+Boil a set of feet in four quarts of cold water; (if the feet have
+been skinned allow but three quarts;) they should boil slowly till
+the liquid is reduced to two quarts or one half the original
+quantity, and the meat has dropped in rags from the bone. Then
+strain the liquid; measure and set it away in a large earthen pan
+to get cold; and let it rest till next morning. Then, if you do
+not find it a firm cake of jelly, boil it over again with an ounce
+of isinglass, and again set it away till cold and congealed.
+Remove the sediment from the bottom of the cake of jelly, and
+carefully scrape off all the fat. The smallest bit of fat will
+eventually render it dull and cloudy. Press some clean blotting
+paper all over it to absorb what little grease may yet remain.
+Then cut the cake of jelly into pieces, and put it into a
+porcelain kettle to melt over the fire. To each quart allow a
+pound of broken up loaf-sugar, a pint of Madeira wine, and a large
+glass of brandy; three large sticks of the best Ceylon cinnamon
+broken up, (if common cinnamon, use four sticks,) the grated peel
+and juice of four large lemons; and lastly, the whites of four
+eggs strained, but not beaten. In breaking the eggs, take care to
+separate them so nicely that none of the yellow gets into the
+white; as the smallest portion of yolk of egg will prevent the
+jelly from being perfectly clear. Mix all the ingredients well
+together, and put them to the jelly in the kettle. Set it on the
+fire, and boil it hard for twenty minutes, but do not stir it.
+Then throw in a tea-cup of cold water, and boil it five minutes
+longer; then take the kettle off the fire, and set it aside,
+keeping it closely covered for half an hour; this will improve its
+clearness. Take a large white flannel jelly-bag; suspend it by the
+strings to a wooden frame made for such purposes, or to the legs
+of a table. Pour in the mixture boiling hot, and when it is all
+in, close up the mouth of the bag that none of the flavour may
+evaporate. Hang it over a deep white dish or bowl, and let it drip
+slowly; but on no account squeeze the bag, as that will certainly
+make the jelly dull and cloudy. If it is not clear the first time,
+empty the bag, wash it, put in the jelly that has dripped into the
+dish, and pass it through again. Repeat this till it is clear. You
+may put it into moulds to congeal, setting them in a cold place.
+When it is quite firm, wrap a cloth that has been dipped in hot
+water, round the moulds to make the jelly turn out easily. But it
+will look much better, and the taste will be more lively, if you
+break it up after it has congealed, and put it into a glass bowl,
+or heap it in jelly glasses Unless it is broken, its sparkling
+clearness shows to little advantage.
+
+After the clear jelly has done dripping, you may return the
+ingredients to the kettle, and warm them over again for about five
+minutes. Then put them into the bag (which you may now squeeze
+hard) till all the liquid is pressed out of it into a second dish
+or bowl. This last jelly cannot, of course, be clear, but it will
+taste very well, and may be eaten in the family.
+
+A pound of the best raisins picked and washed, and boiled with the
+other ingredients, is thought by many persons greatly to improve
+the richness and flavour or calves' feet jelly. They must be put
+in whole, and can be afterwards used for a pudding.
+
+Similar jelly may be made of pigs' or sheep's feet; but it is not
+so nice and delicate as that of calves.
+
+By boiling two sets, or eight calves' feet in five quarts of
+Water, you may be sure of having the jelly very firm. In damp
+weather it is sometimes very difficult to get it to congeal if you
+use but one set of feet; there is the same risk if the weather is
+hot. In winter it maybe made several days before it is to be
+eaten. In summer it will keep in ice for two days; perhaps longer.
+
+
+TO PRESERVE CREAM.
+
+Take four quarts of new cream; it must he of the richest quality,
+and have no milk mixed with it. Put it into a preserving kettle,
+and simmer it gently over the fire; carefully taking off whatever
+scum may rise to the top, till nothing more appears. Then stir,
+gradually, into it four pounds of double-refined loaf-sugar that
+has been finely powdered and sifted. Let the cream and sugar boil
+briskly together half an hour; skimming it, if necessary, and
+afterwards stirring it as long as it continues on the fire. Put it
+into small bottles; and when it is cold, cork it, and secure the
+corks with melted rosin. This cream, if properly prepared, will
+keep perfectly good during a long sea voyage.
+
+
+ITALIAN CREAM.
+
+Put two pints of cream into two bowls. With one bowl mix six
+ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, the juice of two large lemons, and
+two glasses of white wine. Then add the other pint of cream, and
+stir the whole very hard. Boil two ounces, of isinglass with, four
+small tea-cups full of water, till it is reduced to one half. Then
+stir the isinglass lukewarm, into the other ingredients, and put
+them into a glass dish to congeal.
+
+
+CHOCOLATE CREAM.
+
+Melt six ounces of scraped chocolate and four ounces of white
+sugar in half a pint of boiling; water. Stir in an ounce of
+dissolved isinglass. When the whole has boiled, pour it into a
+mould.
+
+
+COLOURING FOR CONFECTIONARY.
+
+RED.
+
+Take twenty grains of cochineal, and fifteen grains of cream of
+tartar finely powdered; add to them a piece of alum the size of a
+cherry stone, and boil them with a jill of soft water, in an
+earthen vessel, slowly, for half an hour. Then strain it through
+muslin, and keep it tightly-corked in a phial.
+
+
+COCHINEAL FOR PRESENT USE.
+
+Take two cents' worth of cochineal. Lay it on a flat plate, and
+bruise it with the blade of a knife. Put it into half a tea-cup of
+white brandy. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then filter
+it through fine muslin.
+
+
+YELLOW COLOURING.
+
+Take a little saffron, put it into an earthen vessel with a very
+small quantity of cold soft water, and let it steep till the
+colour of the infusion is a bright yellow. Then strain it. The
+yellow seeds of lilies will answer nearly the saffron's purpose.
+
+
+GREEN.
+
+Take fresh spinach or beet leaves, and pound them in a marble
+mortar. If you want it for immediate use, take off the green froth
+as it rises, and mix it with the article you intend to colour. If
+you wish to keep it a few days, take the juice when you have
+pressed out a tea-cup full, and adding to it a piece of alum the
+size of a pea, give it a boil in a sauce-pan.
+
+
+WHITE
+
+Blanch some almonds, soak them in cold water, and then pound them
+to a smooth paste in a marble mortar; adding at intervals a little
+rose water. Thick cream will communicate a white colour.
+
+These preparations may be used for jellies, ice creams, blanc-mange,
+syllabubs, icing for cakes; and for various articles of
+confectionary.
+
+
+
+
+CAKES, ETC.
+
+
+GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
+
+Unless you are provided with proper and convenient utensils and
+materials, the difficulty of preparing cakes will be great, and in
+most instances a failure; involving disappointment, waste of time,
+and useless expense. Accuracy in proportioning the ingredients is
+indispensable; and therefore scales and weights, and a set of tin
+measures (at least from a quart down to a jill) are of the utmost
+importance. A large sieve for flour is also necessary; and smaller
+ones for sugar and spice. There should be a marble mortar, or one
+of lignum vitae, (the hardest of all wood;) those of iron (however
+well, tinned) are apt to discolour the articles pounded in them.
+Spice may be ground in a mill kept, exclusively for that purpose.
+Every kitchen should be provided with spice-boxes. You should have
+a large grater for lemon, cocoa-nut, &c., and a small one for
+nutmeg. Butter and sugar cannot be stirred together conveniently
+without a spaddle or spattle, which is a round stick flattened at
+one end; and a deep earthen pan with sides nearly straight. For
+beating eggs, you should have hickory rods or a wire whip, and
+broad shallow earthen pans. Neither the eggs, nor the butter and
+sugar should be beaten, in tin, as the coldness of the metal will
+prevent them from becoming light.
+
+For baking large cakes, the pans (whether of block tin or earthen)
+should have straight sides; if the aides slope inward, there will
+be much difficulty in icing the cake. Pans with a hollow tube
+going up from the centre, are supposed to diffuse the heat more
+equally through the middle of the cake. Buns and some other cakes
+should be baked in square shallow pans of block tin or iron.
+Little tins for queen cakes, &c. are most convenient when of a
+round or oval shape. All baking pans, whether large or small,
+should be well greased with butter or lard before the mixture is
+put into them, and should be filled but little more than half. You
+should have at least two dozen little tins, that a second supply
+may be ready for the oven, the moment the first is taken out. You
+will also want tin cutters for cakes that are rolled out in dough.
+
+All the utensils should be cleaned and put away as soon as they
+are done with. They should be all kept together, and, if possible,
+not used for any other purposes. [Footnote: All the utensils
+necessary for cake and pastry-making, (and for the other branches
+of cooking,) may be purchased in Philadelphia; at Gideon Cox's
+household store in Market street, No. 335, two doors below Ninth.
+Every thing of the sort will be found there in great variety, of
+good quality, and at reasonable prices.]
+
+As it is always desirable that, cake-making should be commenced at
+an early hour, it is well on the day previous to ascertain if all
+the materials are in the house; that there may be no unnecessary
+delay from sending or waiting for them in the morning.
+Wastefulness is to be avoided in every thing; but it is utterly
+impossible that cakes can be good (or indeed any thing else)
+without a liberal allowance of good materials. Cakes are
+frequently rendered hard, heavy, and uneatable by a misplaced
+economy in eggs and butter; or tasteless and insipid for want of
+their due seasoning of spice, lemon, &c.
+
+Use no flour but the best superfine; if the flour is of inferior.
+quality, the cakes will he heavy, ill-coloured, and unfit to eat.
+Even the best flour should always be sifted. No butter that is not
+fresh and good; should ever be put into cakes; for it will give
+them a disagreeable taste which can never be disguised by the
+other ingredients. Even when of excellent quality, the butter will
+be improved by washing it in cold, water, and squeezing and
+pressing it. Except for gingerbread, use only white sugar, (for
+the finest cakes the best loaf,) and have it pulverized by
+pounding it in a mortar, or crushing it on the paste-board with the
+rolling-pin. It should then be sifted. In mixing butter and sugar,
+sift the sugar into a deep pan, cut up the butter in it, set it in
+a warm place to soften, and then stir it very hard with the
+spaddle, till it becomes quite light, and of the consistence of
+cream. In preparing eggs, break them one at a time, into a saucer,
+that, in case there should be a bad one among them, it may not
+spoil the others. Put them into a broad shallow pan, and beat them
+with rods or with a wire whisk, not merely till they froth, but
+long afterwards, till the froth subsides, and they become thick
+and smooth like boiled custard. White of egg by itself may be
+beaten with small rods, or with a three-pronged fork, or a broad
+knife. It is a very easy process, and should be continued till the
+liquid is all converted into a stiff froth so firm that it will
+not drop from the rods when held up. In damp weather it is
+sometimes difficult to get the froth stiff.
+
+The first thing to be done in making cake, is to weigh or measure
+all the ingredients. Next sift the flour, powder the sugar, pound
+or grind the spice, and prepare the fruit; afterwards mix and stir
+the butter and sugar, and lastly beat the eggs; as, if allowed to
+stand any time, they will fall and become heavy. When all the
+ingredients are mixed together, they should be stirred very hard
+at the last; and (unless there is yeast in the cake) the sooner it
+is put into the oven the better. While baking, no air should be
+admitted to it, except for a moment, now and then, when it is
+necessary to examine if it is baking properly, For baking; cakes,
+the best guide is practice and experience; so much depending on
+the state of the fire, that it is impossible to lay down any
+infallible rules.
+
+If you bake in a Dutch oven, let the lid be first heated by
+standing it up before the fire; and cover the inside of the bottom
+with sand or ashes, to temper the heat. For the same purpose, when
+you bake in a stove, place bricks under the pans. Sheets of iron
+without sides will be found very useful for baking small flat
+cakes. For cakes of this description, the fire should be brisk; if
+baked slowly, they will spread, lose their shape, and run into
+each other. For all cakes, the heat should be regular and even; if
+one part of the oven is cooler than another, the cake will bake
+imperfectly, and have heavy streaks through it. Gingerbread (on
+account of the molasses) is more apt to scorch and burn than any
+other cake; therefore it should he baked with a moderate fire.
+
+It is safest, when practicable, to send all large cakes to a
+professional baker's; provided they can be put immediately into
+the oven, as standing will spoil them. If you bake them at home,
+you will find that they are generally done when they cease to make
+a simmering noise; and when on probing them to the bottom with a
+twig from a broom, or with the blade of the knife, it comes out
+quite clean. The fire should then be withdrawn, and the cake
+allowed to get cold in the oven. Small cakes should be laid to
+cool on an inverted sieve. It may be recommended to novices in the
+art of baking, to do every thing in little tins or in very shallow
+pans; there being then less risk than with a large thick cake. In
+mixing batter that is to be baked in small cakes; use less
+proportion of flour.
+
+Small cakes should be kept' closely covered in stone jars. For
+large ones, you should have broad stone pans with close lids, or
+else tin boxes. All cakes that are made with yeast should be eaten
+quite fresh; so also should sponge cake. Some sorts may be kept a
+week; black cake much longer.
+
+
+BLACK CAKE.
+
+Prepare two pounds of currants by picking them clean, washing and
+draining them, through a cullender, and then spreading them out on
+a large dish to dry before the fire or in the sun, placing the
+dish in a slanting position. Pick and stone two pounds of the best
+raisins, and cut them in half. Dredge the currants (when they are
+dry) and the raisins thickly with flour to prevent them from
+sinking in the cake. Grind or powder as much cinnamon as will make
+a large gravy-spoonful when done; also a table-spoonful of mace
+and four nutmegs; sift these spices, and mix them all together in
+a cup. Mix together two large glasses of white wine, one of brandy
+and one of rose water, and cut a pound of citron into large slips.
+Sift a pound of flour into one pan, and a pound of powdered loaf-sugar
+into another. Cut up among the sugar a pound of the best
+fresh butter, and stir them to a cream. Beat twelve eggs till
+perfectly thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the
+butter and sugar, alternately with the flour. Then add by degrees,
+the fruit, spice and liquor, and stir the whole very hard at the
+last. Then put the mixture into a well-buttered tin pan with
+straight or perpendicular sides. Put it immediately into a
+moderate oven, and bake it at least four hours. When done, let it
+remain in the oven to get cold; it will be the better for staying
+in all night. Ice it next morning; first dredging the outside all
+over with flour, and then wiping it with a towel. This will make
+the icing stick.
+
+
+ICING.
+
+A quarter of a pound of finely powdered loaf-sugar, of the whitest
+and best quality, is the usual allowance to one white of egg. For
+the cake in the preceding receipt, three quarters of a pound of
+sugar and the whites of three eggs will be about the proper
+quantity. Beat the white of egg by itself till it stands alone.
+Have ready the powdered sugar, and then beat it hard into the
+white of egg, till it becomes thick and smooth; flavouring it as
+you proceed with a few drops of oil of lemon, or a little extract
+of roses. Spread it evenly over the cake with a broad knife or a
+feather; if you find it too thin, beat in a little more powdered
+sugar. Cover with it thickly the top and sides of the cake, taking
+care not to have it rough and streaky. To ice well requires skill
+and practice. When the icing is about half dry, put on the
+ornaments. You may flower it with coloured sugar-sand or
+nonparels; but a newer and more elegant mode is to decorate it
+with, devices and borders in white sugar; they can be procured at
+the confectioners, and look extremely well on icing that has been
+tinted with pink by the addition of a little cochineal.
+
+You may colour icing of a pale or deep yellow, by rubbing the
+lumps of loaf-sugar (before they are powdered) upon the outside of
+a large lemon or orange. This will also flavour it finely.
+
+Almond icing, for a very fine cake, is made by mixing gradually
+with the white of egg and sugar, some almonds, half bitter and
+half sweet, that have been pounded in a mortar with rose water to
+a smooth paste. The whole must be well incorporated, and spread
+over the cake near half an inch thick. It must be set in a cool
+oven to dry, and then taken out and covered with a smooth plain
+icing of sugar and white of egg.
+
+Whatever icing is left, may be used to make maccaroons or kisses.
+
+
+POUND CAKE.
+
+Prepare a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of
+powdered mace, and two nutmegs grated or powdered. Mix together in
+a tumbler, a glass of white--wine, a glass of brandy, and a glass
+of rose water. Sift a pound of the finest flour into a broad pan,
+and powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a deep pan,
+and cut up in it a pound of fresh butter. Warm them by the fire
+till soft; and then stir them to a cream. When they are perfectly
+light, add gradually the spice and liquor, a little at a time.
+Beat ten eggs as light as possible, and stir them by degrees into
+the mixture, alternately with the flour. Then add twelve drops of
+oil of lemon; or more, if it is not strong. Stir the whole very
+hard; put it into a deep tin pan with straight or upright sides,
+and bake it in a moderate oven from two to three hours. If baked
+in a Dutch oven, take off the lid when you have ascertained that
+the cake is quite done, and let it remain in the oven to cool
+gradually. If any part is burnt, scrape it off as soon as cold.
+
+It may be iced either warm or cool; first dredging the cake with
+flour and then wiping it off. It will be best to put on two coats
+of icing; the second coat not till the first is entirely dry.
+Flavour the icing with essence of lemon, or with extract of roses.
+
+This cake will be very delicate if made with a pound of rice flour
+instead of wheat.
+
+
+INDIAN POUND CAKE.
+
+Sift a pint of fine yellow Indian meal, and half a pint of wheat
+flour, and mix them well together. Prepare a nutmeg beaten, and
+mixed with a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir together
+till very light, half a pound of powdered white sugar; and half a
+pound of fresh butter; adding the spice, with a glass of white
+wine, and a glass of brandy. Having beaten eight eggs as light as
+possible, stir them into the butter and sugar, a little at a time
+in turn with the meal. Give the whole a hard stirring at the last;
+put it into a well-buttered tin pan, and bake it about an hour and
+a half.
+
+This cake (like every thing else in which Indian meal is an
+ingredient) should be eaten quite fresh; it is then very nice.
+When stale, (even a day old,) it becomes dry and rough as if made
+with saw-dust.
+
+
+QUEEN CAKE.
+
+Sift fourteen ounces of the finest flour, being two ounces less
+than a pound. Cakes baked in little tins, should have a smaller
+proportion of flour than those that are done in large loaves.
+Prepare a table-spoonful of beaten cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of
+mace, and two beaten nutmegs; and mix them all together when
+powdered. Mix in a tumbler, half a glass of white wine, half a
+glass of brandy, and half a glass of rose water. Powder a pound of
+loaf-sugar, and sift it into a deep pan; cut up in it a pound of
+fresh butter; warm them by the fire, and stir them to a cream. Add
+gradually the spice and the liquor. Beat ten eggs very light, and
+stir them into the mixture in turn with the flour. Stir in twelve
+drops of essence of lemon, and beat the whole very hard. Butter
+some little tins; half fill them with the mixture; set them into a
+brisk oven, and cake them about a quarter of an hour. When done,
+they will shrink from the sides of the tins. After you turn them
+out, spread them on an inverted sieve to cool. If you have
+occasion to fill your tins a second time, scrape and wipe them
+well before they are used again.
+
+Make an icing flavoured with oil of lemon, or with extract of
+roses; and spread two coats of it on the queen cakes. Set them to
+dry in a warm place, but not near enough the fire to discolour the
+icing and cause it to crack.
+
+Queen cakes are best the day they are baked.
+
+
+FRUIT QUEEN CAKES.
+
+Make them in the above manner, with the addition of a pound of
+currants, (picked, washed, dried, and floured,) and the juice and
+grated peel of two large lemons, stirred in gradually at the last.
+Instead of currants, you may put in sultana or seedless raisins,
+cut in half and floured.
+
+You may make a fruit pound cake in this manner.
+
+
+LADY CAKE.
+
+Take a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds, or peach-kernels.
+Put them into a bowl of boiling water, (renewing the
+water as it cools) and let them lie in it till the skin peels off
+easily; then throw them, as they, are blanched, into a bowl of
+cold water, which will much improve their whiteness. Pound them,
+one at a time, in a mortar; pouring in frequently a few drops of
+rose water to prevent them from oiling and being heavy. Cut up
+three quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a whole pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar. Having warmed it, stir it to a light cream,
+and then add very gradually the pounded almonds, beating them in
+very hard. Sift into a separate pan half a pound and two ounces of
+flour, and beat in another pan to a stiff froth, the, whites only
+of seventeen eggs. Stir the flour and the white of egg alternately
+into the pan of butter, sugar and almonds, a very little at a time
+of each. Having beaten the whole as hard as possible, put it into
+a buttered tin pan, (a square one is best,) and set it immediately
+into a moderate oven. Bake it about an hour, more or less,
+according to its thickness. When cool, ice it, flavouring the
+icing, with oil of lemon. It is best the day after it is baked,
+but it may be eaten fresh. When you put it away wrap it in a thick
+cloth.
+
+If you bake it in little tins, use two ounces less of flour.
+
+
+SPANISH BUNS.
+
+Cut up three quarters of a pound of butter into a jill and a half
+or three wine glasses of rich unskimmed milk, (cream will be still
+better,) and get the pan on a stove or near the fire, till the
+butter becomes soft enough to stir all through the milk with a
+knife; but do not let it get so hot as to boil of itself. Then set
+it away in a cold place. Sift into separate pans, a half pound and
+a quarter of a pound of the finest flour; and having beaten four
+eggs as light as possible, mix them with the milk and butter, and
+then pour the whole into the pan that contains the half pound of
+flour. Having previously prepared two grated nutmegs, and a table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon and mace, stir them into the
+mixture; adding six drops of extract of roses, or a large table-spoonful
+of rose water. Add a wine glass and a half of the best
+fresh yeast from a brewery. If you cannot procure yeast of the
+very best quality, an attempt to make these buns will most
+probably prove a failure, as the variety of other ingredients will
+prevent them from rising unless the yeast is as strong as
+possible. Before you put it in, skim off the thin liquid or beer
+from the top, and then stir up the bottom. After you have put in
+the yeast, add the sugar; stirring it well in, a very little at a
+time. If too much sugar is put in at once, the buns will be heavy.
+Lastly, sprinkle in the quarter of a pound of flour that was
+sifted separately; and stir the whole very hard. Put the mixture
+into a square pan well buttered, and (having covered it with a
+cloth) place it in a corner of the hearth to rise, which will
+require, perhaps, about five hours; therefore these buns should
+always be made early in the day. Do not bake it till the batter
+has risen to twice its original quantity, and is covered on the
+top with bubbles; then set the pan into a moderate oven, and bake
+it about twenty minutes. Let it get cool in the pan; then, cut it
+into squares, and either ice them, (flavouring the icing with
+essence of lemon or extract of roses,) or sift grated loaf-sugar
+thickly over them. These buns (like all other cakes made with
+yeast) should be eaten the day they are baked; as when stale, they
+fall and become hard.
+
+In mixing them, you may stir in at the last half a pound of
+raisins, stoned, chopped and floured; or half a pound of currants.
+If you use fruit, put in half a wine glass more of the yeast.
+
+
+BATH BUNS.
+
+Boil a little saffron in sufficient water to cover it, till the
+liquid is of a bright yellow; then strain it, and set it to cool.
+Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of sifted flour, and
+make it into a paste with four eggs that have been well beaten,
+and a large wine glass of the best and strongest yeast; adding the
+infusion of saffron to colour it yellow. Put the dough into a pan,
+cover it with a cloth, and set it before the fire to rise. When it
+is quite light, mix into it a quarter of a pound of powdered and
+sifted loaf-sugar; a grated nutmeg; and, if you choose, two or
+three spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Roll out the dough into a thick
+sheet, and divide it into round cakes with a cutter. Strew the top
+of each bun with carraway comfits, and bake them on flat tins
+buttered well. They should be eaten the day they are baked, as
+they are not good unless quite fresh.
+
+
+JELLY CAKE.
+
+Sift three quarters of a pound of flour. Stir to a cream a pound
+of butter and a pound of powdered white sugar, and mix in half a
+tea-cup of rose water, and a grated nutmeg, with a tea-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon. Beat ten eggs very light, and add them
+gradually to the mixture, alternately with the flour; stirring the
+whole very hard. Put your griddle into the oven of a stove; and
+when it is quite hot, grease it with fresh butter tied in a clean
+rag, and set on it a tin cake-ring, (about the size of a large
+dinner plate,) greased also. Dip out two large table-spoonfuls and
+a half of the cake batter; put it within the tin ring, and bake it
+about five minutes (or a little longer) without turning it. When
+it is done, take it carefully off; place it on a large dish to
+cool; wipe the griddle, grease it afresh, and put on another cake.
+Proceed thus till all the batter is baked. When the cakes are
+cool, spread every one thickly over with grape jelly, peach
+marmalade, or any other sweetmeat that is smooth and thick;
+currant jelly will be found too thin, and is liable to run off.
+Lay the cakes smoothly one on another, (each having a layer of
+jelly or marmalade between,) and either grate loaf-sugar over the
+top one, or ice it smoothly; marking the icing with cross lines of
+coloured sugar-sand, all the lines meeting at the centre so as to
+divide the cake, when cut, into triangular or wedge-shaped slices.
+If you ice it, add a few drops of essence of lemon to the icing.
+
+Jelly cake should be eaten fresh. It is best the day it is baked.
+
+You may bake small jelly cakes in muffin rings.
+
+
+SPONGE CAKE.
+
+Sift three quarters of a pound of flour, [Footnote: Sponge cake
+may be made with rice flour.] and powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar.
+Grate the yellow rind and squeeze into a saucer the juice
+of three lemons. Beat twelve eggs; and when they are as light as
+possible, beat into them gradually and very hard the sugar, adding
+the lemon, and beating the whole for a long time. Then by degrees,
+stir in the flour slowly and lightly; for if the flour is stirred
+hard and fast into sponge cake, it will make it porous and tough.
+Have ready buttered, a sufficient number of little square tins,
+(the thinner they are the better,) half fill them with the
+mixture; grate loaf-sugar over the top of each; put them
+immediately into a quick oven, and bake them about ten minutes;
+taking out one to try when you think they are done. Spread them on
+an inverted sieve to cool. When baked in small square cakes, they
+are generally called Naples biscuits.
+
+If you are willing to take the trouble, they will bake much nicer
+in little square paper cases, which you must make of a thick
+letter paper, turning up the sides all round, and pasting together
+or sewing up the corners.
+
+If you bake the mixture in one large cake, (which is not advisable
+unless you have had much practice in baking,) put it into a
+buttered tin pan or mould, and set it directly into a hot Dutch
+oven, as it will fall and become heavy if allowed to stand. Keep
+plenty of live coals on the top, and under the bottom till the
+cake has risen very high, and is of a fine colour; then diminish
+the fire, and keep it moderate till the cake is done. It will take
+about an hour. When cool, ice it; adding a little essence of lemon
+or extract of roses to the icing. Sponge cake is best the day it
+is baked.
+
+Diet Bread is another name for Sponge Cake.
+
+
+ALMOND CAKE.
+
+Blanch, and pound in a mortar, four ounces of shelled sweet
+almonds and two ounces of shelled bitter ones; adding, as you
+proceed, sufficient rose-water to make them light and white. Sift
+half a pound of flour, and powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat
+thirteen eggs; and when they are as light as possible, stir into
+them alternately the almonds, sugar, and flour; adding a grated
+nutmeg. Butter a large square pan; put in the mixture, and bake it
+in a brisk oven about half an hour, less or more, according to its
+thickness. When cool, ice it. It is best when eaten fresh.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT CAKE.
+
+Cut up and wash a cocoa-nut, and grate as much of it as will weigh
+a pound. Powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat fifteen eggs very
+light; and then beat into them, gradually, the sugar. Then add by
+degrees the cocoa-nut; and lastly, a handful of sifted flour. Stir
+the whole very hard, and bake it either in a large tin pan, or in
+little tins. The oven should be rather quick.
+
+
+WASHINGTON CAKE.
+
+Stir together a pound of butter and a pound of sugar; and sift
+into another pan a pound of flour. Beat six eggs very light, and
+stir them into the butter and sugar, alternately with the flour
+and a pint of rich milk or cream; if the milk is sour it will be
+no disadvantage. Add a glass of wine, a glass of brandy, a
+powdered nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon.
+Lastly, stir in a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or salaeratus,
+that has been melted in a little vinegar; take care not to put in
+too much pearl-ash, lest it give the cake an unpleasant taste.
+Stir the whole very hard; put it into a buttered tin pan, (or into
+little tins,) and bake it in a brisk oven. Wrapped in a thick
+cloth, this cake will keep soft for a week.
+
+
+CIDER CAKE.
+
+Pick, wash, and dry a pound of currants, and sprinkle
+them well with flour; and prepare two nutmegs, and a large table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon. Sift half a pound and two ounces
+of flour. Stir together till very light, six ounces of fresh
+butter, and half a pound of powdered white sugar; and add
+gradually the spice, with two wine glasses of brandy, (or one of
+brandy and one of white wine.) Beat four eggs very light, and stir
+them into the mixture alternately with the flour. Add by degrees
+half a pint of brisk cider; and then stir in the currants, a few
+at a time. Lastly, a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or sal-aratus
+dissolved in a little warm water. Having stirred the whole very
+hard, put it into a buttered tin pan, and let it stand before the
+fire half an hour previous to baking. Bake it in a brisk oven an
+hour or more according to its thickness. Or you may bake it as
+little cakes, putting it into small tins; in which case use but
+half a pound of flour in raising the batter.
+
+
+ELECTION CAKE.
+
+Make a sponge (as it is called) in the following manner:--Sift
+into a pan two pounds and a half of flour; and into a deep plate
+another pound. Take a second pan, and stir a large table-spoonful
+of the best West India molasses into five jills or two tumblers
+and a half of strong fresh yeast; adding a Jill of water, warm,
+but not hot. Then stir gradually into the yeast, &c. the pound of
+flour that you have sifted separately. Cover it, and let it set by
+the fire three hours to rise. While it is rising, prepare the
+other ingredients, by stirring in a deep pan two pounds of fresh
+butter and two pounds of powdered sugar, till they are quite light
+and creamy; adding to them a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon;
+a tea-spoonful of powdered mace; and two powdered nutmegs. Stir in
+also half a pint of rich milk. Beat fourteen eggs till very smooth
+and thick, and stir them gradually into the mixture, alternately
+with the two pounds and a half of flour which you sifted first.
+When the sponge is quite light, mix the whole together, and bake
+it in buttered tin pans in a moderate oven. It should be eaten
+fresh, as no sweet cake made with yeast is so good after the first
+day. If it is not probable that the whole will come into use on
+the day it is baked, mix but half the above quantity.
+
+
+MORAVIAN SUGAR CAKE.
+
+Cut up a quarter of a pound of butter into a pint of rich milk,
+and warm it till the butter becomes soft; then stir it about in
+the milk so as to mix them well. Sift three quarters of a pound of
+flour (or a pint and a half) into a deep pan, and making a hole in
+the middle of it, stir in a large table-spoonful of the best
+brewer's yeast in which a salt-spoonful of salt has been
+dissolved; and then thin it with the milk and butter. Cover it,
+and set it near the fire to rise. If the yeast is sufficiently
+strong, it will most probably be light in two hours. When it is
+quite light, mix with the dough a well-beaten egg and three
+quarters of a pound more of sifted flour; adding a table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon, and stirring it very hard. Butter a deep
+square baking pan, and put the mixture into it. Set it to rise
+again, as before. Mix together five ounces or a large coffee-cup
+of fine brown sugar; two ounces of butter; and two table-spoonfuls
+of powdered cinnamon. When the dough is thoroughly light, make
+deep incisions all over it, at equal distances, and fill them with
+the mixture of butter, sugar and cinnamon; pressing it hard down
+into the bottom of the holes, and closing the dough a little at
+the top to prevent the seasoning from running out. Strew some
+sugar over the top of the cake; set it immediately into the oven,
+and bake it from twenty minutes to half an hour, or more, in a
+brisk oven, in proportion to its thickness. When cool, cut it into
+squares. This is a very good plain cake; but do not attempt it
+unless you have excellent yeast.
+
+
+HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.
+
+Spread a quart of ripe huckleberries on a large dish, and dredge
+them thickly with flour. Mix together half a pint of milk; half a
+pint of molasses; half a pint of powdered sugar; and half a pound
+of butter. Warm them by the fire till the butter is quite soft;
+then stir them all together, and set them away till cold. Prepare
+a large table-spoonful of powdered cloves and cinnamon mixed. Beat
+five eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the other
+ingredients; adding, by degrees, sufficient gifted flour to make a
+thick batter. Then stir in a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or
+dissolved sal-aratus. Lastly, add by degrees the huckleberries.
+Put the mixture into a buttered pan, or into little tins and bake
+it in a moderate oven. It is best the second day.
+
+
+BREAD CAKE.
+
+When you are making wheat bread, and the dough is quite light and
+ready to bake, take out as much of it as would make a twelve cent
+loaf, and mix with it a tea cup full of powdered sugar, and a tea-cup
+full of butter that has been softened and stirred about in a
+tea-cup of warm milk. Add also a beaten egg. Knead it very well,
+put it into a square pan, dredged with flour, cover it, and set it
+near the fire for half an hour. Then bake it in a moderate oven,
+and wrap it in a thick cloth as soon as it is done. It is best
+when fresh.
+
+
+FEDERAL CAKES.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and cut up in it a pound
+of fresh butter; rub the butter into the flour with your hands,
+adding by degrees, half a pound of powdered white sugar; a tea-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon; a beaten nutmeg; a glass of wine or
+brandy, and two glasses of rose water. Beat four eggs very light;
+and add them to the mixture with a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash
+melted in a little lukewarm water. Mix all well together; add, if
+necessary, sufficient cold water to make it into a dough just
+stiff enough to roll out; knead it slightly, and then roll it out
+into a sheet about half an inch thick. Cut it out into small cakes
+with a tin cutter, or with the edge of a tumbler; dipping the
+cutter frequently into flour, to prevent its sticking. Lay the
+cakes in shallow pans buttered, or on flat sheets of tin, (taking
+care not to let them touch, lest they should run into each other,)
+and bake them of a light brown in a brisk oven. They are best the
+second day.
+
+
+SAVOY BISCUITS.
+
+Take four eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat the
+whites by themselves, to a stiff froth; then add gradually the
+yolks, and beat them both together for a long time. Next add by
+degrees half a pound of the finest loaf-sugar, powdered and
+sifted, beating it in very hard; and eight drops of strong essence
+of lemon. Lastly, stir in a quarter of a pound of sifted flour, a
+little at a time. Stir the whole very hard, and then with a spoon
+lay it on sheets of white paper, forming it into thin cakes of an
+oblong or oval shape. Take care not to place them too close to
+each other, lest they run. Grate loaf-sugar over the top of each,
+to assist in keeping them in shape. Have the oven quite ready to
+put them in immediately. It should be rather brisk. They will bake
+in a few minutes, and should be but slightly coloured.
+
+
+ALMOND MACCAROONS.
+
+Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of
+shelled bitter almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, mix them
+together, and pound them, one or two at a time, in a mortar to a
+very smooth paste; adding frequently a little rose water to
+prevent them from oiling and becoming heavy. Prepare a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar. Beat the whites of seven eggs, to a stiff
+froth, and then beat into it gradually the powdered sugar, adding
+a table-spoonful of mixed spice, (nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon.)
+Then mix in the pounded almonds, (which it is best to prepare the
+day before,) and stir the whole very hard. Form the mixture with a
+spoon into little round or oval cakes, upon sheets of buttered
+white paper, and grate white sugar over each. Lay the paper in
+square shallow pans, or on iron sheets, and bake the maccaroons a
+few minutes in a brisk oven, till of a pale brown. When cold, take
+them off the papers.
+
+It will be well to try two or three first, and if you find them
+likely to lose their shape and run info each other, you may omit
+the papers and make the mixture up into little balls with your
+hands well floured; baking them in shallow tin pans slightly
+buttered.
+
+You may make maccaroons with icing that is left from a cake.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT MACCAROONS.
+
+Beat to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and then beat into
+it very hard a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Mix with it a pound
+of grated cocoa-nut, or sufficient to make a stiff paste. Then
+flour your hands, and make it up into little balls. Lay them on
+sheets of buttered white paper, and bake them in a brisk oven;
+first grating loaf-sugar over each. They will be done in a few
+minutes. Maccaroons may be made in a similar manner of pounded
+cream-nuts, ground-nuts, filberts, or English walnuts.
+
+
+WHITE COCOA-NUT CAKES.
+
+Break up a cocoa-nut; peel and wash the pieces in cold water, and
+grate them. Mix in the milk of the nut and some powdered loaf-sugar
+and then form the grated cocoa-nut into little balls upon
+sheets of white paper. Make them all of a regular and handsome
+form, and touch the top of each with a spot of red sugar-sand. Do
+not bake them, but place them to dry for twenty-four hours, in a
+warm room where nothing is likely to disturb the them.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT JUMBLES.
+
+Grate a large cocoa-nut. Rub half a pound of butter into a pound
+of sifted flour, and wet it with, three beaten eggs, and a little
+rose water. Add by degrees the cocoa-nut, so as to form a stiff
+dough. Flour your hands and your paste-hoard, and dividing the
+dough into equal portions, make the jumbles with your hands into
+long rolls, and then curl them round and join the ends so as to
+form rings. Grate loaf-sugar over them, lay them in buttered
+pans, (not so near as to run into each other,) and bake them in a
+quick oven from five to ten minutes.
+
+
+COMMON JUMBLES.
+
+Sift a pound of flour into a large pan. Cut up a pound of butter
+into a pound of powdered white sugar, and stir them to a cream.
+Beat six eggs till very light, and then pour them all at once into
+the pan of flour; next add the butter and sugar, with a large
+table-spoonful of mixed mace and cinnamon, two grated nutmegs, and
+a tea-spoonful of essence of lemon or a wine glass of rose water.
+When all the ingredients are in, stir the mixture very hard with a
+broad knife. Having floured your hands and spread some flour on
+the paste-board, make the dough into long rolls, (all of equal
+size,) and form them into rings by joining the two ends very
+nicely. Lay them on buttered tins, and bake them in a quick oven
+from five to ten minutes. Grate sugar over them when cool.
+
+
+APEES.
+
+Rub a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, and
+mix in a pound of powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon, and four large table-spoonfuls of
+carraway seeds. Add a wine glass of rose water, and mix the whole
+with sufficient cold water to make it a stiff dough. Roll it out
+into a large sheet about a third of an inch in thickness, and cut
+it into round cakes with a tin cutter or with the edge of a
+tumbler. Lay them in buttered pans, and bake them in a quick oven,
+(rather hotter at the bottom than at the top,) till they are of a
+very pale brown.
+
+
+WHITE CUP CAKE.
+
+Measure one large coffee cup of cream or rich milk, (which, for
+this cake, is best when sour,) one cup of fresh butter; two cups
+of powdered white sugar; and four cups of sifted flour. Stir the
+butter and sugar together till quite light; then by degrees add
+the cream, alternately with half the flour. Beat five eggs as
+light as possible, and stir them into the mixture, alternately
+with the remainder of the flour. Add a grated nutmeg and a large
+tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, with eight drops of oil of
+lemon. Lastly, stir in a very small tea-spoonful of sal-aratus or
+pearl-ash, melted in a little vinegar or lukewarm water. Having
+stirred the whole very hard, put it into little tins; set them in
+a moderate oven, and bake them about twenty minutes.
+
+
+KISSES.
+
+Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Beat to a strong froth the
+whites of eight eggs, and when it is stiff enough to stand alone,
+beat into it the powdered sugar, (a tea spoonful at a time,)
+adding the juice of two lemons, or ten drops of essence of lemon.
+Having beaten the whole very hard, drop it in oval or egg-shaped
+heaps upon sheets of white paper, smoothing them with the spoon
+and making them of a handsome and regular form. Place them in a
+moderate oven, (if it is too cool they will not rise, but will
+flatten and run into each other,) and bake them till coloured of a
+very pale brown. Then take them off the papers very carefully,
+place two bottoms (or flat sides) together, so as to unite them in
+an oval ball, and lay them on their sides to cool. To manage them
+properly, requires so much practice and dexterity, that it is
+best, when practicable, to procure kisses from a confectioner's
+shop.
+
+
+MARMALADE CAKE.
+
+Make a batter as for queen-cake, and bake it in small tin rings on
+a griddle. Beat white of egg, and powdered loaf-sugar according to
+the preceding receipt, flavouring it with lemon. When the batter
+is baked into cakes, and they are quite cool, spread over each a
+thick layer of marmalade, and then heap on with a spoon tire icing
+or white of egg and sugar. Pile it high, and set the cakes in a
+moderate oven till the icing is coloured of a very pale brown.
+
+Instead of small ones you may bake the whole in one large cake.
+
+
+SECRETS.
+
+Take glazed paper of different colours, and cut it into squares of
+equal size, fringing two sides of each. Have ready, burnt almonds,
+chocolate nuts, and bonbons or sugar-plums of various sorts; and
+put one in each paper with a folded slip containing two lines of
+verse; or what will be much more amusing, a conundrum with the
+answer. Twist the coloured paper so as entirely to conceal their
+contents, leaving the fringe at each end. This is the most easy,
+but there are various ways of cutting and ornamenting these
+envelopes.
+
+
+SCOTCH CAKE.
+
+Rub three quarters of a pound of butter into a pound of sifted
+flour; mix in a pound of powdered sugar, and a large table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon. Mix it into a dough with three well
+beaten eggs. Roll it out into a sheet; cut it into round cakes,
+and bake them in a quick oven; they will require but a few
+minutes.
+
+
+SCOTCH QUEEN CAKE.
+
+Melt a pound of butter by putting it into a skillet on hot coals.
+Then set it away to cool. Sift a quarter of a peck of flour into a
+deep pan, and mix with it a pound of powdered sugar and a table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon and mace. Make a hole in the middle,
+put in the melted butter, and mix it with a knife till you have
+formed of the whole a lump of dough. If it is too stiff, moisten
+it with a little rose water. Do not knead it; but roll it out into
+a large oval sheet, an inch thick. Cut it down the middle, and
+then across, so as to divide it into four cakes. Prick them with a
+fork, and crimp or scollop the edges neatly. Lay them in shallow
+pans; set them, in a quick oven and bake them of a light brown.
+This cake will keep a week or two.
+
+You may mix in with the dough half a pound of currants, picked,
+washed, and dried.
+
+
+HONEY CAKES.
+
+Take a quart of strained honey, half a pound of fresh butter, and
+a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a wine glass of
+water. Add by degrees as much sifted flour as will make a stiff
+paste. Work the whole well together. Roll it out about half an
+inch thick. Cut it into cakes with the edge of a tumbler or with a
+tin-cake cutter. Lay them on buttered tins and bake them with
+rather a brisk fire, but see that they do not burn.
+
+
+WAFER CAKES.
+
+Mix together half a pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a
+pound of butter; and add to them six beaten eggs. Then beat the
+whole very light; stirring into it as much sifted flour as will
+make a stiff batter; a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of
+cinnamon; and eight drops of oil of lemon, or a table-spoonful of
+rose water. The batter must be very smooth when it is done, and
+without a single lump. Heat your wafer iron on both sides by
+turning it in the fire; but do not allow it to get too hot. Grease
+the inside with butter tied in a rag, (this must be repeated
+previous to the baking of every cake,) and put in the batter,
+allowing to each wafer two large table-spoonfuls, taking care not
+to stir up the batter. Close the iron, and when one side is baked,
+turn it on the other; open it occasionally to see if the wafer is
+doing well. They should be coloured of a light brown. Take them
+out carefully with a knife. Strew them with powdered sugar, and
+roll them up while warm, round a smooth stick, withdrawing it when
+they grow cold. They are best the day after they are baked.
+
+If you are preparing for company, fill up the hollow of the wafers
+with whipt cream, and stop up the two ends with preserved
+strawberries, or with any other small sweetmeat.
+
+
+WONDERS, OR CRULLERS.
+
+Rub half a pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour, mixing
+in three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Add a tea-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon, and a grated nutmeg, with a large
+table-spoonful of rose water. Beat six eggs very light, and stir
+them into the mixture. Mix it with a knife into a soft paste. Then
+put it on the paste-board, and roll it out into a sheet an inch
+thick. If you find it too soft, knead in a little more flour, and
+roll it out over again. Cut it into long slips with a jagging
+iron, or with a sharp knife, and twist them into various fantastic
+shapes. Have ready on hot coals, a skillet of boiling lard; put in
+the crullers and fry them of a light brown, turning them
+occasionally by means of a knife and fork. Take them out one by
+one on a perforated skimmer, that the lard may drain off through
+the holes. Spread them out on a large dish, and when cold grate
+white sugar over them.
+
+They will keep a week or more.
+
+
+DOUGH NUTS.
+
+Take two deep dishes, and sift three quarters of a pound of flour
+into each. Make a hole in the centre of one of them, and pour in a
+wine glass of the best brewer's yeast; mix the flour gradually
+into it, wetting it with lukewarm milk; cover it, and set it by
+the fire to rise for about two hours. This is setting a sponge. In
+the mean time, cut up five ounces of butter into the other dish of
+flour, and rub it fine with your hands; add half a pound of
+powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a grated
+nutmeg, a table-spoonful of rose water, and a half pint of milk.
+Beat three eggs very light, and stir them hard into the mixture.
+Then when, the sponge is perfectly light, add it to the other
+ingredients, mixing them all thoroughly with a knife. Cover it,
+and set it again by the fire for another hour. When, it is quite
+light, flour your paste-board, turn out the lump of dough, and cut
+it into thick diamond shaped cakes with a jagging iron. If you
+find the dough so soft as to be unmanageable, mix in a little more
+flour; but not else. Have ready a skillet of boiling lard; put the
+dough-nuts into it, and fry them brown; and when cool grate loaf-sugar
+over them. They should be eaten quite fresh, as next day
+they will be tough and heavy; therefore it is best to make no more
+than you want for immediate use. The New York Oley Koeks are
+dough-nuts with currants and raisins in them.
+
+
+WAFFLES.
+
+Put two pints of rich milk into separate pans. Cut up and melt in
+one of them a quarter of a pound of butter, warming it slightly;
+then, when it is melted, stir it about, and set it away to cool.
+Beat eight eggs till very light, and mix them gradually into the
+other pan of milk, alternately with half a pound of flour. Then
+mix in by degrees the milk that has the butter in it. Lastly, stir
+in a large table-spoonful of strong fresh yeast. Cover the pan,
+and set it near the fire to rise. When the batter is quite light,
+heat your waffle-iron, by putting it among the coals of a clear
+bright fire; grease the inside with butter tied in a rag, and then
+put in some batter. Shut the iron closely, and when the waffle is
+done on one side, turn the iron on the other. Take the cake out by
+slipping a knife underneath; and then heat and grease the iron for
+another waffle. Send them to table quite hot, four or six on a
+plate; having buttered them and strewed over each a mixture of
+powdered cinnamon, and white sugar. Or you may send the sugar and
+cinnamon in a little glass bowl.
+
+In buying waffle-irons, do not choose those broad shallow ones
+that are to hold four at a time; as the waffles baked in them are
+too small, too thin, and are never of a good shape. The common
+sort that bake but two at once are much the best.
+
+
+NEW YORK COOKIES.
+
+Take a half-pint or a tumbler full of cold water, and mix it with
+half a pound of powdered white sugar. Sift three pounds of flour
+into a large pan and cut up in it a pound of butter; rub the
+butter very fine into the flour. Add a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon, with a wine glass of rose water.
+Work in the sugar, and make the whole into a stiff dough, adding,
+if necessary, a little cold water. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of
+pearl-ash in just enough of warm water to cover it, and mix it in
+at the last. Take the lump of dough out of the pan, and knead it
+on the paste-board till it becomes quite light. Then roll it out
+rather more than half an inch thick, and cut it into square cakes
+with a jagging iron or with a sharp knife. Stamp the surface of
+each with a cake print. Lay them in buttered pans, and bake them
+of a light brown in a brisk oven.
+
+They are similar to what are called New Year's cakes, and will
+keep two or three weeks.
+
+In mixing the dough, you may add three table-spoonfuls of carraway
+seeds.
+
+
+SUGAR BISCUIT.
+
+Wet a pound of sugar with two large tea-cups full of milk; and rub
+a pound of butter into two pounds of flour; adding a table-spoonful
+of cinnamon, and a handful of carraway seeds. Mix in the
+sugar, add a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved, and make the
+whole into a stiff dough. Knead it, and then roll it out into a
+sheet about half an inch thick. Beat it on both sides with the
+rolling-pin, and then cut it out with the edge of a tumbler into
+round cakes. Prick them with a fork, lay them in buttered pans,
+and bake them light brown in a quick oven. You may colour them
+yellow by mixing in with the other ingredients a little of the
+infusion of saffron.
+
+
+RUSKS.
+
+Sift three pounds of flour into a large pan, and rub into it half
+a pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar. Beat two eggs very
+light, and stir them into a pint and a half of milk, adding two
+table-spoonfuls of rose water, and three table-spoonfuls of the
+best and strongest yeast. Make a hole in the middle of the flour,
+pour in the liquid, and gradually mix the flour into it till you
+have a thick batter. Cover it, and set it by the fire to rise.
+When it is quite light, put it on your paste-board and knead it
+well. Then divide it into small round cakes and knead each
+separately. Lay them very near each other in shallow iron pans
+that have been sprinkled with flour. Prick the top of each rusk
+with a fork, and set them by the fire to rise again for half an
+hour or more. When they are perfectly light, bake them in a
+moderate oven. They are best when fresh.
+
+You can convert them into what are called Hard Rusks, or Tops and
+Bottoms, by splitting them in half, and putting them again into
+the oven to harden and crisp.
+
+
+MILK BISCUIT.
+
+Cut up three quarters of a pound of butter in a quart of milk, and
+set it near the fire to warm, till the butter becomes soft; then
+with a knife, mix it thoroughly with the milk, and set it away to
+cool. Afterwards stir in two wine glasses of strong fresh yeast,
+and add by degrees as much sifted flour as will make a dough just
+stiff enough to roll out. As soon as it is mixed, roll it into a
+thick sheet, and cut it out into round cakes with the edge of a
+tumbler or a wine glass. Sprinkle a large iron pan with flour; lay
+the biscuits in it, cover it and set it to rise near the fire.
+When the biscuits are quite light, knead each one separately;
+prick them with a fork, and set them again in a warm place for
+about half an hour. When they are light again, bake them in a
+moderate oven. They should be eaten fresh, and pulled open with
+the fingers, as splitting them with a knife will make them heavy.
+
+
+WHITE GINGERBREAD.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and rub into it three
+quarters of a pound of butter; then mix in a pound of common white
+sugar powdered; and three table-spoonfuls of the best white
+ginger. Having beaten four eggs very light, mix them gradually
+with the other ingredients in the pan, and add a small tea-spoonful
+of pearl-ash melted in a wine glass of warm milk. Stir
+the whole as hard as possible. Flour your paste-board; lay the
+lump of dough upon it, and roll it out into a sheet an inch thick;
+adding more flour if necessary. Butter a large shallow square pan.
+Lay the dough into it, and bake it in a moderate oven. When cold,
+cut it into squares. Or you may cut it out into separate cakes
+with a jagging iron, previous to baking. You must be careful not
+to lay them too close together in the pan, lest they run into each
+other.
+
+
+COMMON GINGERBREAD.
+
+Cut up a pound of butter in a quart of West India molasses, which
+must be perfectly sweet; if it is in the least sour, use sugar
+house molasses instead. Warm it slightly, just enough to melt the
+butter. Crush with the rolling-pin, on the paste-board, half a
+pound of brown sugar, and add it by degrees to the molasses and
+butter; then stir in a tea-cup full of powdered ginger, a large
+tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, and a table-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon. Add gradually sufficient flour to make a dough stiff
+enough to roll out easily; and lastly, a small tea-spoonful of
+pearl-ash melted in a little warm water. Mix and stir the dough
+very hard with a spaddle, or a wooden spoon; but do not knead it.
+Then divide it with a knife into equal portions; and, having
+floured your hands, roll it out on the paste-board into long even
+strips. Place them in shallow tin pans, that have been buttered;
+either laying the strips side by side in straight round sticks,
+(uniting them at both ends,) or coil them into rings one within
+another, as you see them at the cake shops. Bake them in a brisk
+oven, taking care that they do not burn; gingerbread scorching
+sooner than any other cake.
+
+To save time and trouble, you may roll out the dough into a sheet
+near an inch thick, and cut it into round flat cakes with a tin
+cutter, or with the edge of a tumbler.
+
+Ground ginger loses much of its strength by keeping. Therefore it
+will be frequently found necessary to put in more than the
+quantity given in the receipt.
+
+
+GINGERBREAD NUTS.
+
+Rub half a pound of butter into a pound and a half of sifted
+flour; and mix in half a pound of brown sugar, crushed fine with
+the rolling-pin. Add two large table-spoonfuls of ginger, a tea-spoonful
+of powdered cloves, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon. Stir in a pint of molasses, and the grated peel of a
+large lemon, but not the juice, as you must add at the last, a
+very small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a little
+lukewarm water, and pearl-ash entirely destroys the taste of
+lemon-juice and of every other acid. Stir the whole mixture very
+hard with a spaddle or with a wooden spoon, and make it into a
+lump of dough just stiff enough to roll out into a sheet about
+half an inch thick. Cut it out into small cakes about the size of
+a quarter dollar; or make it up, with your hands well floured,
+into little round balls, flattening them on the top. Lay them in
+buttered pans, and bake them in a moderate oven. They will keep
+several weeks.
+
+
+FRANKLIN CAKE.
+
+Mix together a pint of molasses, and half a pint of milk, and cut
+up in it half a pound of butter. Warm them just enough to melt the
+butter, and then stir in six ounces of brown sugar; adding three
+table-spoonfuls of ginger, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon,
+a tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, and a grated nutmeg. Beat seven
+eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in turn
+with a pound and two ounces of flour. Add, at the last, the grated
+peel and juice of two large lemons or oranges; or twelve drops of
+essence of lemon, there being no pearl-ash in this gingerbread.
+Stir the mixture very hard; put it into little queen cake tins,
+well buttered; and bake it in a moderate oven. It is best the
+second day, and will keep soft a week.
+
+
+GINGER PLUM CAKE.
+
+Stone a pound and a half of raisins, and cut them in two. Wash and
+dry half a pound of currants. Sift into a pan two pounds of flour.
+Put into another pan a pound of brown sugar, (rolled fine,) and
+cut up in it a pound of fresh butter. Stir the butter and sugar to
+a cream, and add to it two table-spoonfuls of the best ginger; one
+table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon; and one of powdered cloves.
+Then beat six eggs very light, and add them gradually to the
+butter and sugar, in turn with the flour and a quart of molasses.
+Lastly, stir in a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a little
+vinegar, and add by degrees the fruit, which must be well dredged
+with flour. Stir all very hard; put the mixture into a buttered
+pan, and bake it in a moderate oven. Take care not to let it burn.
+
+
+MOLASSES CANDY.
+
+Mix a pound of the best brown sugar with two quarts of West India
+molasses, (which must be perfectly sweet,) and boil it in a
+preserving kettle over a moderate fire for three hours, skimming
+it well, and stirring it frequently after the scum has ceased to
+rise; taking care that it does not burn. Have ready the grated
+rind and the juice of three lemons, and stir them into the
+molasses after it has boiled about two hours and a half; or you
+may substitute a large tea-spoonful of strong essence of lemon.
+The flavour of the lemon will all be boiled out if it is put in
+too soon. The mixture should boil at least three hours, that it
+may be crisp and brittle when cold. If it is taken off the fire
+too soon, or before it has boiled sufficiently, it will not
+congeal, but will be tough and ropy, and must be boiled over
+again. It will cease boiling of itself when it is thoroughly done.
+Then take it off the fire; have ready a square tin pan; put the
+mixture into it, and set it away to cool.
+
+You may make molasses candy with almonds blanched and slit into
+pieces; stir them in by degrees after the mixture has boiled two
+hours and a half. Or you may blanch a quart of ground-nuts and put
+them in instead of the almonds.
+
+
+NOUGAT.
+
+Blanch a pound of shelled sweet almonds; and with an almond
+cutter, or a sharp penknife, split each almond into five slips.
+Spread them over a large dish, and place them in a gentle oven.
+Powder a pound of the finest loaf-sugar, and put it into a
+preserving pan without a drop of water. Set it on a chafing-dish
+over a slow fire, or on a hot stove, and stir it with a wooden
+spoon till the boat has entirely dissolved it. Then take the
+almonds out of the oven, and mix with them the juice of two or
+three lemons. Put them into the sugar a few at a time, and let
+them simmer till it becomes a thick stiff paste, stirring it hard
+all the while. Have ready a mould, or a square tin pan, greased
+all over the inside with sweet oil; put the mixture into it;
+smooth it evenly, and set it in a cold place to harden.
+
+
+LEMON DROPS.
+
+Squeeze some lemon-juice into a pan. Pound in a mortar some of the
+best loaf-sugar, and then sift it through a very fine sieve. Mix
+it with the lemon-juice, making it so thick that you can scarcely
+stir it. Put it into a porcelain sauce-pan, set it on hot coals,
+and stir it with a wooden spoon five minutes or more. Then take
+off the pan, and with the point of a knife drop the liquid on
+writing paper. When cold, the drops will easily come off.
+
+Peppermint drops may be made as above, substituting for the lemon-juice
+essence of peppermint.
+
+
+
+
+WARM CAKES FOR BREAKFAST AND TEA.
+
+
+BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
+
+Take a quart of buckwheat meal, mix with it a tea-spoonful of
+salt, and add a handful of Indian meal. Pour a large table-spoonful
+of the best brewer's yeast into the centre of the meal.
+Then mix it gradually with cold water till it becomes a batter.
+Cover it, put it in a warm place and set it to rise; it will take
+about three hours. When it is quite light, and covered with
+bubbles, it is fit to bake. Put your griddle over the fire, and
+let it get quite hot before you begin. Grease it well with a piece
+of butter tied in a rag. Then dip out a large ladle full of the
+batter and bake it on the griddle; turning it with a broad wooden
+paddle. Let the cakes be of large size, and even at the edges.
+Ragged edges to batter cakes look very badly. Butter them as you
+take them off the griddle. Put several on a plate, and cut them
+across in six pieces.
+
+Grease the griddle anew, between baking each cake.
+
+If your batter has been mixed over night and is found to be sour
+in the morning, melt in warm water a piece of pearl-ash the size
+of a grain of corn, or a little larger; stir it into the batter;
+let it set half an hour, and then bake it. The pearl-ash will
+remove the sour taste, and increase the lightness of the cakes.
+
+
+FLANNEL CAKES.
+
+Put a table-spoonful of butter into a quart of milk, and warm them
+together till the butter has melted; then stir it well, and set it
+away to cool. Beat five eggs as light as possible, and stir them
+into the milk in turn with three pints of sifted flour; add a
+small tea-spoonful of salt, and a large table-spoonful and a half
+of the best fresh yeast. Set the pan of batter near the fire to
+rise; and if the yeast is good, it will be light in three hours.
+Then bake it on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Send
+them to table hot, and cut across into four pieces. This batter
+may be baked in waffle-irons. If so, send to table with the cakes
+powdered white sugar and cinnamon.
+
+
+INDIAN BATTER CAKES.
+
+Mix together a quart of sifted Indian meal, (the yellow meal is
+best for all purposes,) and a handful of wheat flour. Warm a quart
+of milk, and stir into it a small tea-spoonful of salt, and two
+large table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Beat three eggs
+very light, and stir them gradually into the milk in turn with the
+meal. Cover it, and set it to rise for three or four hours. When
+quite light, bake it on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat
+cakes. Butter them, cut them across, and send them to table hot,
+with molasses in a sauce-boat.
+
+If the batter should chance to become sour before it is baked,
+stir in about a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a little
+lukewarm water; and let it set half an hour longer before it is
+baked.
+
+
+INDIAN MUSH CAKES.
+
+Pour into a pan three pints of cold water, and stir gradually into
+it a quart of sifted Indian meal which has been mixed with half a
+pint of wheat flour, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Give it a
+hard stirring at the last. Have ready a hot griddle, and bake the
+batter immediately, in cakes about the size of a saucer. Send them
+to table piled evenly, but not cut. Eat them with butter or
+molasses.
+
+This is the most economical and expeditious way of making soft
+Indian cakes; but it cannot be recommended as the best. It will be
+some improvement to mix the meal with milk rather than water.
+
+
+JOHNNY CAKE.
+
+Sift a quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle,
+and pour in a pint of warm water. Mix the meal and water gradually
+into a batter, adding a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat it very
+hard, and for a long time, till it becomes quite light. Then
+spread it thick and even on a stout piece of smooth board. Place
+it upright on the hearth before a clear fire, with a flat iron or
+something of the sort to support the board behind, and bake it
+well. Cut it into squares, and split and butter them hot.
+
+
+INDIAN FLAPPERS.
+
+Have ready a pint of sifted Indian meal, mixed with a handful of
+wheat flour, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat four eggs very
+light, and stir them by degrees into a quart of milk, in turn with
+the meal. They can be made in a very short time, and should be
+baked as soon as mixed, on a hot griddle; allow a large ladle full
+of batter to each cake, and make them all of the same size. Send
+them to table hot, buttered and cut in half.
+
+
+INDIAN MUFFINS.
+
+Sift and mix together a pint and a half of yellow Indian meal, and
+a handful of wheat flour. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh
+butter in a quart of milk. Beat four eggs very light, and stir
+into them alternately (a little at a time of each) the milk when
+it is quite cold, and the meal; adding a small tea-spoonful of
+salt. The whole must be beaten long and hard. Then butter some
+muffin rings; set them on a hot griddle, and pour some of the
+batter into each.
+
+Send the muffins to table hot, and split them by pulling them open
+with your fingers, as a knife will make them heavy. Eat them with
+butter, molasses or honey.
+
+
+WATER MUFFINS.
+
+Put four table-spoonfuls of fresh strong yeast into a pint of
+lukewarm water. Add a little salt; about a small tea-spoonful;
+then stir in gradually as much sifted flour as will make a thick
+batter. Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place to rise. When it
+is quite light, and your griddle is hot, grease and set your
+muffin rings on it; having first buttered them round the inside.
+Dip out a ladle full of the batter for each ring, and bake them
+over a quick fire. Send them to table hot, and split them by
+pulling open with your hands.
+
+
+COMMON MUFFINS.
+
+Having melted three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter in three pints
+of warm milk, set it away to cool. Then beat three eggs as light
+as possible, and stir them gradually into the milk when it is
+quite cold; adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Stir in by degrees
+enough of sifted flour to make a batter as thick as you can
+conveniently beat it; and lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of
+strong fresh yeast from the brewery. Cover the batter and set it
+in a warm place to rise. It should be light in about three hours.
+Having heated your griddle, grease it with some butter tied in a
+rag; grease your muffin rings round the inside, and set them on
+the griddle. Take some batter out of the pan with a ladle or a
+large spoon, pour it lightly into the rings, and bake the muffins
+of a light brown. When done, break or split them open with your
+fingers; butter them and send them to table hot.
+
+
+SODA BISCUITS.
+
+Melt half a pound of butter in a pint of warm milk, adding a tea-spoonful
+of soda; and stir in by degrees half a pound of sugar.
+Then sift into a pan two pounds of flour; make a hole in the
+middle; pour in the milk, &c., and mix it with the flour into a
+dough. Put it on your paste-board, and knead it long and hard till
+it becomes very light. Roll it out into a sheet half an inch
+thick. Cut it into little round cakes with the top of a wine
+glass, or with a tin cutter of that size; prick the tops; lay them
+on tins sprinkled with flour, or in shallow iron pans; and bake
+them of a light brown in a quick oven; they will be done in a few
+minutes. These biscuits keep very well.
+
+
+A SALLY LUNN.
+
+This cake is called after the inventress. Sift into a pan a pound
+and a half of flour. Make a hole in the middle, and put in two
+ounces of butter warmed in a pint of milk, a salt-spoonful of
+salt, three well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of the best
+fresh yeast. Mix the flour well into the other ingredients, and
+put the whole into a square tin pan that has been greased with
+butter. Cover it, set it in a warm place, and when it is quite
+light, bake it in a moderate oven. Send it to table hot, and eat
+it with butter.
+
+Or, you may bake it on a griddle, in small muffin rings, pulling
+the cakes open and buttering them when brought to table.
+
+
+SHORT CAKES.
+
+Rub three quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a
+pound and a half of sifted flour; and make it into a dough with a
+little cold water. Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick,
+and cut it into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler. Prick them
+with a fork; lay them in a shallow iron pan sprinkled with flour,
+and bake them in a moderate oven till they are brown. Send them to
+table hot; split and butter them.
+
+
+TEA BISCUIT.
+
+Melt a quarter of a
+pound of fresh butter in a quart of warm milk, and add a salt-spoonful
+of salt. Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, make a hole
+in the centre, and put in three table-spoonfuls of the best
+brewer's yeast. Add the milk and butter and mix it into a stiff
+paste. Cover it and set it by the fire to rise. When quite light,
+knead it well, roll it out an inch thick, and cut it into round
+cakes with the edge of a tumbler. Prick the top of each with a
+fork; lay them in buttered pans and bake them light brown. Send
+them to table warm, and split and butter them.
+
+
+RICE CAKES.
+
+Pick
+and wash half a pint of rice, and boil it very soft. Then drain
+it, and let it get cold. Sift a pint and a half of flour over the
+pan of rice, and mix in a quarter of a pound of butter that has
+been warmed by the fire, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Beat five
+eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a quart of milk.
+Beat the whole very hard, and bake it in muffin rings, or in
+waffle-irons. Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter,
+honey, or molasses. You may make these cakes of rice flour instead
+of mixing together whole rice and wheat flour.
+
+
+CREAM CAKES.
+
+Having
+beaten three eggs very light, stir them into a quart of cream
+alternately with a quart of sifted flour; and add one wine glass
+of strong yeast, and a salt-spoon of salt. Cover the batter, and
+set it near the fire to rise. When it is quite light, stir in a
+large table-spoonful of butter that has been warmed by the fire.
+Bake the cakes in muffin rings, and send them to table hot, split
+with your fingers, and buttered.
+
+
+FRENCH ROLLS.
+
+Sift a pound of
+flour into a pan, and rub into it two ounces of butter; mix in the
+whites only of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and a table-spoonful
+of strong yeast; add sufficient milk to make a stiff
+dough, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Cover it and set it before the
+fire to rise. It should be light in an hour. Then put it on a
+paste-board, divide it into rolls, or round cakes; lay them in a
+floured square pan, and bake them about ten minutes in a quick
+oven.
+
+
+COMMON ROLLS.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and mix
+with it a tea-spoonful of salt. Warm together a jill of water and
+a jill of milk. Make a hole in the middle of the pan of flour; mix
+with the milk and water a jill of the best yeast, and pour it into
+the hole. Mix into the liquid enough of the surrounding flour to
+make a thin batter, which you must stir till quite smooth and free
+from lumps. Then strew a handful of flour over the top, and set it
+in a warm, place to rise for two hours or more. When it is quite
+light, and has cracked on the top, make it into a dough with some
+more milk and water. Knead it well for ten minutes. Cover it, and
+set it again to rise for twenty minutes. Then make the dough into
+rolls or round balls. Bake them in a square pan, and send them to
+table hot, cut in three, buttered and put together again.
+
+BREAD.
+
+
+Take one peck or two gallons of fine wheat flour, and sift it into
+a kneading trough, or into a small clean tub, or a large broad
+earthen pan; and make a deep hole in the middle of the heap of
+flour, to begin the process by what is called setting a sponge.
+Have ready half a pint of warm water, which in summer should be
+only lukewarm, but even in winter it must not be hot or boiling,
+and stir it well into half a pint of strong fresh yeast; (if the
+yeast is home-made you must use from three quarters to a whole
+pint;) then pour it into the hole in the middle of the flour. With
+a spoon work in the flour round the edges of the liquid, so as to
+bring in by degrees sufficient flour to form a thin batter, which
+must be well stirred about, for a minute or two. Then take a
+handful of flour, and scatter it thinly over the top of this
+batter, so as to cover it entirely. Lay a warmed cloth over the
+whole, and set it to rise in a warm place; in winter put it nearer
+the fire than in summer. When the batter has risen so as to make
+cracks in the flour on the top, scatter over it three or four
+table-spoonfuls (not more) of fine salt, and begin to form the
+whole mass into a dough; commencing round the hole containing the
+batter, and pouring as much soft water as is necessary to make the
+flour mix with the batter; the water must never be more than
+lukewarm. When the whole is well mixed, and the original batter
+which is to give fermentation to the dough is completely
+incorporated with it, knead it hard, turning it over, pressing it,
+folding it, and working it thoroughly with your clenched hands for
+twenty minutes or half an hour; or till it becomes perfectly light
+and stiff. The goodness of bread depends much on the kneading,
+which to do well requires strength and practice. When it has been
+sufficiently worked, form the dough into a lump in the middle of
+the trough or pan, and scatter a little dry flour thinly over it;
+then cover it, and set it again in a warm place to undergo a
+farther fermentation; for which, if all has been done rightly,
+about twenty minutes or half an hour will be sufficient. The oven
+should be hot by the time the dough has remained twenty minutes in
+the lump. If it is a brick oven it should be heated by faggots or
+small light wood, allowed to remain in till burnt down into coals.
+When the bread is ready, clear out the coals, and sweep and wipe
+the floor of the oven clean. Introduce nothing wet into the oven,
+as it may crack the bricks when they are hot. Try the heat of the
+bottom by throwing in some flour; and if it scorches and burns
+black, do not venture to put in the bread till the oven has had
+time to become cooler. Put the dough on the paste-board, (which
+must be sprinkled with flour,) and divide it into loaves, forming
+them of a good shape. Place them in the oven, and close up the
+door, which you may open once or twice to see how the bread is
+going on. The loaves will bake in from two hours and a half to
+three hours, or more, according to their size. When the loaves are
+done, wrap each in a clean coarse towel, and stand them up on end
+to cool slowly. It is a good way to have the cloths previously
+made damp by sprinkling them plentifully with water, and letting
+them lie awhile rolled up tightly. This will make the crust of the
+bread less dry and hard. Bread should be kept always wrapped in a
+cloth, and covered from the air in a box or basket with a close
+lid. Unless you have other things to bake at the same time, it is
+not worth while to heat a brick oven for a small quantity of
+bread. Two or three loaves can be baked very well in a stove,
+(putting them into square iron pans,) or in a Dutch oven.
+[Footnote: If you bake bread in a Dutch oven, take off the lid
+when the loaf is done, and let it remain in the oven uncovered for
+a quarter of an hour.] If the bread has been mixed over night
+(which should never be done in warm weather) and is found, on
+tasting it, to be sour in the morning, melt a tea-spoonful of
+pearl-ash in a little milk-warm water, and sprinkle it over the
+dough; let it set half an hour, and then knead it. This will
+remove the acidity, and rather improve the bread in lightness. If
+dough is allowed to freeze it is totally spoiled. All bread that
+is sour, heavy, or ill-baked is not only unpalatable, but
+extremely unwholesome, and should never be eaten. These accidents
+so frequently happen when bread is made at home by careless,
+unpractised or incompetent persons, that families who live in
+cities or towns will generally risk less and save more, by
+obtaining their bread from a professional baker. If you like a
+little Indian in your wheat bread, prepare rather a larger
+quantity of warm water for setting the sponge; stirring into the
+water, while it is warming, enough of sifted Indian meal to make
+it like thin gruel. Warm water that has had pumpkin boiled in it
+is very good for bread. Strong fresh yeast from the brewery should
+always be used in preference to any other. If the yeast is home-made,
+or not very strong and fresh, double or treble the quantity
+mentioned in the receipt will be necessary to raise the bread. On
+the other hand, if too much yeast is put in, the bread will be
+disagreeably bitter. [Footnote: If you are obliged from its want
+of strength to put in a large quantity of yeast, mix with it two
+or three handfuls of bran; add the warm water to it, and then
+strain it through a sieve or cloth; or you may correct the
+bitterness by putting in a few bits of charcoal and then straining
+it.] You may take off a portion of the dough that has been
+prepared for bread, make it up into little round cakes or rolls,
+and bake them for breakfast or tea.
+
+
+BRAN BREAD.
+
+Sift into a pan
+three quarts of unbolted wheat meal. Stir a jill of strong yeast,
+and a jill of molasses into a quart of soft water, (which must be
+warm but not hot,) and add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or
+sal-aratus. Make a hole in the heap of flour, pour in the liquid,
+and proceed in the usual manner of making bread. This quantity may
+be made into two loaves. Bran bread is considered very wholesome;
+and is recommended to persons afflicted with dyspepsia.
+
+
+RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.
+
+Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix
+them well together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling hot
+upon the meal; add two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole
+very hard. Let it stand till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat,
+and then stir in half a pint of good fresh yeast; if from the
+brewery and quite fresh, a smaller quantity will suffice. Knead
+the mixture into a stiff dough, and set it to rise in a pan. Cover
+it with a thick cloth that has been previously warmed, and set it
+near the fire. When it is quite light, and has cracked all over
+the top, make it into two loaves, put them into a moderate oven,
+and bake them two hours and a half.
+
+
+COMMON YEAST.
+
+Put a large handful of hops into two quarts of boiling water,
+which must then be set on the fire again, and boiled twenty
+minutes with the hops. Have ready in a pan three pints of sifted
+flour; strain the liquid, and pour half of it on the flour. Let
+the other half stand till it becomes cool, and then mix it
+gradually into the pan with the flour, &c. Then stir into it half
+a pint of good strong yeast, fresh from the brewery if possible;
+if not, use some that was left of the last making. You may
+increase the strength by stirring into your yeast before you
+bottle it, four or five large tea-spoonfuls of brown sugar, or as
+many table-spoonfuls of molasses.
+
+Put it into clean bottles, and cork them loosely till the
+fermentation is over. Next morning put in the corks tightly, and
+set the bottles in a cold place. When you are going to bottle the
+yeast it will be an improvement to place two or three raisins at
+the bottom of each bottle. It is best to make yeast very
+frequently; as, with every precaution, it will scarcely keep good
+a week, even in cold weather. If you are apprehensive of its
+becoming sour, put into each bottle a lump of pearl-ash the size
+of a hazle-nut.
+
+
+BRAN YEAST.
+
+Mix a pint of wheat bran, and a handful of hops with a quart of
+water, and boil them together about twenty minutes. Then strain it
+through a sieve into a pan; when the liquid becomes only milk-warm,
+stir into it four table-spoonfuls of brewer's yeast, and two
+of brown sugar, or four of molasses. Put it into a wooden bowl,
+cover it, and set it near the fire for four or five hours. Then
+bottle it, and cork it tightly next day.
+
+
+PUMPKIN YEAST.
+
+Pare a fine ripe pumpkin, and cut it into pieces. Put them into a
+kettle with a large handful of hops, and as much water as will
+cover them. Boil them till the pumpkin is soft enough to pass
+through a cullender. Having done this, put the pulp into a stone
+jar, adding half a pint of good strong yeast to set it into a
+fermentation. The yeast must be well stirred into the pumpkin.
+Leave the jar uncovered till next day; then secure it lightly with
+a cork. If pumpkin yeast is well made, and of a proper
+consistence, neither too thick nor too thin, it will keep longer
+than any other.
+
+
+BAKER'S YEAST.
+
+To a gallon of soft water put two quarts of wheat bran, one quart
+of ground malt, (which may be obtained from a brewery,) and two
+handfuls of hops. Boil them together for half an hour. Then strain
+it through a sieve, and let it stand till it is cold; after which
+put to it two large tea-cups of molasses, and half a pint of
+strong yeast. Pour it into a stone jug, and let it stand uncorked
+till next morning. Then pour off the thin liquid from the top, and
+cork the jug tightly. When you are going to use the yeast, if it
+has been made two or three days, stir in a little pearl-ash
+dissolved in warm water, allowing a lump the size of a hickory-nut
+to a pint of yeast. This will correct any tendency to sourness,
+and make the yeast more brisk.
+
+
+TO MAKE BUTTER.
+
+Scald your milk pans every day after washing them; and let them
+set till the water gets cold. Then wipe them with a clean cloth.
+Fill them all with cold water half an hour before milking time,
+and do not pour it out till the moment before you are ready to use
+the pans. Unless all the utensils are kept perfectly sweet and
+nice, the cream and butter will never be good. Empty milk-pans
+should stand all day in the sun.
+
+When you have strained the milk into the pans, (which should be
+broad and shallow,) place them in the spring-house, setting them
+down in the water. After the milk has stood twenty-four hours,
+skim off the cream, and deposits it in a large deep earthen jar,
+commonly called a crock, which must be kept closely covered, and
+stirred up with a stick at least twice a day, and whenever you add
+fresh cream to it. This stirring is to prevent the butter from
+being injured by the skin that will gather over the top of the
+cream.
+
+You should churn at least twice a week, for if the cream is
+allowed to stand too long, the butter will inevitably have a odd
+taste. Add to the cream the strippings of the milk. Butter of only
+two or three days gathering is the best. With four or five good
+cows, you may easily manage to have a churning every three days.
+If your dairy is on a large scale, churn every two days.
+
+Have your churn very clean, and rinse and cool it with cold water.
+A barrel churn is best; though a small upright one, worked by a
+staff or dash, will do very well where there are but one or two
+cows.
+
+Strain the cream from the crock into the churn, and put on the
+lid. Move the handle slowly in warm weather, as churning too fast
+will make the butter soft. When you find that the handle moves
+heavily and with great difficulty, the butter has come; that is,
+it has separated from the thin fluid and gathered into a lump, and
+it then is not necessary to churn any longer. Take it out with a
+wooden ladle, and put it into a small tub or pail. Squeeze and
+press it hard with the ladle, to get out all that remains of the
+milk. Add a little salt, and then squeeze and work It for a long
+time. If any of the milk is allowed to remain in, it will speedily
+turn sour and spoil the butter. Set it away in a cool place for
+three hours, and then work it over again. [Footnote: A marble slab
+or table will be found of great advantage in working and making up
+butter.] Wash it in cold water; weigh it; make it up into separate
+pounds, smoothing, and shaping it; and clap each pound on your
+wooden butter print, dipping the print every time in cold water.
+Spread a clean linen cloth on a bench in the spring-house; place
+the butter on it, and let it set till it becomes perfectly hard.
+Then wrap each pound in a separate piece of linen that has been
+dipped in cold water.
+
+Pour the buttermilk into a clean crock, and place it in the
+spring-house, with a saucer to dip it out with. Keep the pot
+covered. The buttermilk will be excellent the first day; but
+afterwards it will become too thick and sour. Winter buttermilk is
+never very palatable.
+
+Before you put away the churn, wash and scald it well; and the day
+that you use it again, keep it for an hour or more filled with
+cold water.
+
+In cold weather, churning is a much more tedious process than in
+summer, as the butter will be longer coming. It is best then to
+have the churn in a warm room, or near the fire. If you wish to
+prepare the butter for keeping a long time, take it after it has
+been thoroughly well made, and pack it down tightly into a large
+jar. You need not in working it, add more salt than if the butter
+was to be eaten immediately. But preserve it by making a brine of
+fine salt, dissolved in water. The brine must be strong enough to
+bear up an egg on the surface without sinking. Strain the brine
+into the jar, so as to be about two inches above the butter. Keep
+the jar closely covered, and set it in a cool place.
+
+When you want any of the butter for use, take it off evenly from
+the top; so that the brine may continue to cover it at a regular
+depth.
+
+This receipt for making butter is according to the method in use
+at the best farm-houses in Pennsylvania, and if exactly followed
+will be found very good. The badness of butter is generally owing
+to carelessness or mismanagement; to keeping the cream too long
+without churning; to want of cleanliness in the utensils; to not
+taking the trouble to work it sufficiently; or to the practice of
+salting it so profusely as to render it unpleasant to the taste,
+and unfit for cakes or pastry. All these causes of bad butter are
+inexcusable, and can easily be avoided. Unless the cows have been
+allowed to feed where there are bitter weeds or garlic, the milk
+cannot naturally have any disagreeable taste, and therefore the
+fault of the butter must be the fault of the maker. Of course, the
+cream is much richer where the pasture is fine and luxuriant; and
+in winter, when the cows have only dry food, the butter must be
+consequently whiter and more insipid than in the grazing season.
+Still, if properly made, even winter butter cannot taste badly.
+
+Many economical housekeepers always buy for cooking, butter of
+inferior quality. This is a foolish practice; as when it is bad,
+the taste will predominate through all attempts to disguise it,
+and render every thing unpalatable with which it is combined. As
+the use of butter is designed to improve and not to spoil the
+flavour of cookery, it is better to omit it altogether, and to
+substitute something else, unless you can procure that which is
+good. Lard, suet, beef-drippings, and sweet oil, may be used in
+the preparation of various dishes; and to eat with bread or warm
+cakes, honey, molasses, or stewed fruit, &c, are far superior to
+bad butter.
+
+
+CHEESE.
+
+In making good cheese, skim milk is never used. The milk should either
+be warm from the cow or heated to that temperature over the fire.
+When the rennet is put in, the heat of the milk should be from 90
+to 96 degrees. Three quarts of milk will yield, on an average, about
+a pound of cheese. In infusing the rennet, allow a quart of lukewarm
+water, and a table-spoonful of salt to a piece about half the size
+of your hand. The rennet must soak all night in the water before
+it can be fit for use. In the morning (after taking as much of it
+as you want) put the rennet water into a bottle and cork it
+tightly. It will keep the better for adding to it a wine glass of
+brandy. If too large a proportion of rennet is mixed with the
+milk, the cheese will be tough and leathery.
+
+To make a very good cheese, take three buckets of milk warm from
+the cow, and strain it immediately into a large tub or kettle.
+Stir into it half a tea-cupful of infusion of rennet or rennet-water;
+and having covered it, set it in a warm place for about
+half an hour, or till it becomes a firm curd. Cut the curd into
+squares with a large knife, or rather with a wooden slitting-dish,
+and let it stand about fifteen minutes. Then break it up fine with
+your hands, and let it stand a quarter of an hour longer. Then
+pour off from the top as much of the whey as you can; tie up the
+curd in a linen cloth or bag, and hang it up to drain out the
+remainder of the whey; setting a pan under it to catch the
+droppings. After all the whey is drained out, put the curd into
+the cheese-tray, and cut it again into slices; chop it coarse; put
+a cloth about it; place it in the cheese-hoop or mould, and set it
+in the screw press for half an hour, pressing it hard. [Footnote:
+If you are making cheese on a small scale, and have not a regular
+press, put the curd (after you have wrapped it in a cloth) into a
+small circular wooden box or tub with numerous holes bored in the
+bottom; and with a lid that fits the inside exactly. Lay heavy
+weights on the lid in such a manner as to press evenly all over.]
+Then take it out; chop the curd very fine; add salt to your taste;
+and put it again into the cheese-hoop with a cloth about it, and
+press it again. You must always wet the cloth all over to prevent
+its sticking to the cheese, and tearing the surface. Let it remain
+in the press till next morning, when you must take it out and turn
+it; then wrap it in a clean wet cloth, and replace it in the
+press, where it must remain all day. On the following morning
+again take out the cheese; turn it, renew the cloth, and put it
+again into the press. Three days pressing will be sufficient.
+
+When you finally take it out of the press, grease the cheese all
+over with lard, and put it on a clean shelf in a dry dark room, or
+in a wire safe. Wipe, grease, and turn it carefully every day. If
+you omit this a single day the cheese will spoil. Keep the shelf
+perfectly clean, and see that the cheese does not stick to it.
+When the cheese becomes firm, you may omit the greasing; but
+continue to rub it all over every day with a clean dry cloth.
+Continue this for five or sis weeks; the cheese will then be fit
+to eat.
+
+The best time for making cheese is when the pasture is in
+perfection.
+
+You may enrich the colour of the cheese by a little anatto or
+arnotta; of which procure a small quantity from the druggist,
+powder it, tie it in a muslin rag, and hold it in the warm milk,
+(after it is strained,) pressing out the colouring matter with
+your fingers, as laundresses press their indigo or blue rag in the
+tub of water. Anatto is perfectly harmless.
+
+After they begin to dry, (or ripen, as it is called,) it is the
+custom in some dairy-farms, to place the cheeses in the haystack,
+and keep them there among the hay for five or six weeks. This is
+said greatly to improve their consistence and flavour. Cheeses are
+sometimes ripened by putting them every day in fresh grass.
+
+
+SAGE CHEESE.
+
+Take some of the young top leaves of the sage plant, and pound
+them in a mortar till you have extracted the juice. Put the juice
+into a bowl, wipe out the mortar, put in some spinach leaves, and
+pound them till you have an equal quantity of spinach juice. Mix
+the two juices together, and stir them into the warm milk
+immediately after you have put in the rennet. You may use sage
+juice alone; but the spinach will greatly improve the colour;
+besides correcting the bitterness of the sage.
+
+
+STILTON CHEESE.
+
+Having strained the morning's milk, and skimmed the cream from the
+milk of the preceding evening, mix the cream and the new milk
+together while the latter is quite warm, and stir in the rennet-water.
+When the curd has formed, you must not break it up, (as is
+done with other cheese,) but take it out all at once with a wooden
+skimming dish, and place it on a sieve to drain gradually. While
+it is draining, keep pressing it gently till it becomes firm and
+dry. Then lay a clean cloth at the bottom of a wooden cheese-hoop
+or mould, which should have a few small holes bored in the bottom.
+The cloth must be large enough for the end to turn over the top
+again, after the curd is put in. Place it in the press for two
+hours; turn it, (putting a clean cloth under it,) and press it
+again for six or eight hours. Then turn it again, rub the cheese
+all over with salt, and return it to the press for fourteen hours.
+Should the edges of the cheese project, they must be pared off.
+
+When you take it finally out of the press, bind it round tightly
+with a cloth, (which must be changed every day when you turn the
+cheese,) and set it on a shelf or board. Continue the cloths till
+the cheese is firm enough to support itself; rubbing or brushing
+the outside every day when you turn it. After the cloths are left
+off, continue to brush the cheese every day for two or three
+months; during which time it may be improved by keeping it covered
+all round, under and over, with grass, which must be renewed every
+day, and gathered when quite dry after the dew is off. Keep the
+cheese and the grass between two large plates.
+
+A Stilton cheese is generally made of a small size, seldom larger
+in circumference than a dinner plate, and about four or five
+inches thick. They are usually put up for keeping, in cases of
+sheet lead, fitting them exactly. There is no cheese superior to
+them in richness and mildness.
+
+Cream cheeses (as they are generally called) may be made in this
+manner. They are always eaten quite fresh, while the inside is
+still somewhat soft. They are made small, and are sent to table
+whole, cut across into triangular slices like a pie or cake. After
+they become fit to eat, they will keep good but a day or two, but
+they are considered while fresh very delicious.
+
+
+COTTAGE CHEESE.
+
+This is that preparation of milk vulgarly called Smear Case. Take
+a pan of milk that has just began to turn sour; cover it, and set
+it by the fire till it becomes a curd. Pour off the whey from the
+top, and tie up the curd in a pointed linen bag, and hang it up to
+drain; setting something under it to catch the droppings. Do not
+squeeze it. Let it drain all night, and in the morning put the
+curd into a pan, (adding some rich cream,) and work it very fine
+with a spoon, chopping and pressing it till about the consistence
+of a soft bread pudding. To a soup plate of the fine curd put a
+tea-spoonful of salt; and a piece of butter about the size of a
+walnut; mixing all thoroughly together. Having prepared the whole
+in this manner, put it into a stone or china vessel; cover it
+closely, and set it in a cold place till tea time. You may make it
+of milk that is entirely sweet by forming the curd with rennet.
+
+
+A WELSH RABBIT.
+
+Toast some slices of bread, (having cut off the crust,) butter
+them, and keep them hot. Grate or shave down with a knife some
+fine mellow cheese: and, if it is not very rich, mix with it a few
+small bits of butter. Put it into a cheese-toaster, or into a
+skillet, and add to it a tea-spoonful of made mustard; a little
+cayenne pepper; and if you choose, a wine glass of fresh porter or
+of red wine. Stir the mixture over hot coals, till it is
+completely dissolved; and then brown it by holding over it a
+salamander, or a red-hot shovel. Lay the toast in the bottom and
+round the sides of a deep dish; put the melted cheese upon it, and
+serve it up as hot as possible, with dry toast in a separate
+plate; and accompanied by porter or ale.
+
+This preparation of cheese is for a plain supper.
+
+Dry cheese is frequently grated on little plates for the tea-table.
+
+
+TO MAKE CHOCOLATE
+
+To each square of a chocolate cake allow three jills, or a
+chocolate cup and a half of boiling water. Scrape down the
+chocolate with a knife, and mix it first to a paste with a small
+quantity of the hot water; just enough to melt it in. Then put it
+into a block tin pot with the remainder of the water; set it on
+hot coals; cover it, and let it boil (stirring it twice) till the
+liquid is one third reduced. Supply that third with cream or rich
+milk; stir it again, and take it off the fire. Serve it up as hot
+as possible, with dry toast, or dry rusk. It chills immediately.
+If you wish it frothed, pour it into the cup, and twirl round in
+it the little wooden instrument called a chocolate mill, till you
+nave covered the top with foam.
+
+
+TO MAKE TEA.
+
+In buying tea, it is best to get it by the box, of an importer,
+that you may be sure of having it fresh, and unmixed with any that
+is old and of inferior quality. The box should be kept in a very
+dry place. If green tea is good, it will look green in the cup
+when poured out. Black tea should be dark coloured and have a
+fragrant flowery smell. The best pots for making tea are those of
+china. Metal and Wedgwood tea-pots by frequent use will often
+communicate a disagreeable taste to the tea. This disadvantage may
+be remedied in Wedgwood ware, by occasionally boiling the tea-pots
+in a vessel of hot water.
+
+In preparing to make tea, let the pot be twice scalded from the
+tea-kettle, which must be boiling hard at the moment the water is
+poured on the tea; otherwise it will be weak and insipid, even
+when a large quantity is put in. The best way is to have a chafing
+dish, with a kettle always boiling on it, in the room where the
+tea is made. It is a good rule to allow two tea-spoonfuls of tea
+to half a pint or a large cupful of water, or two tea-spoonfuls
+for each grown person that is to drink tea, and one spoonful
+extra. The pot being twice scalded, put in the tea, and pour on
+the water about ten minutes before you want to fill the cups, that
+it may have time to draw or infuse. Have hot water in another pot,
+to weaken the cups of those that like it so. That the second
+course of cups may be as strong as the first, put some tea into a
+cup just before you sit down to table, pour on it a very little
+boiling water, (just enough to cover it,) set a saucer over it to
+keep in the steam, and let it infuse till you have filled all the
+first cups; then add it to that already in the tea-pot, and pour
+in a little boiling water from the kettle. Except that it is less
+convenient for a large family, a kettle on a chafing dish is
+better than an urn, as the water may be kept longer boiling.
+
+In making black tea, use a larger quantity than of green, as it is
+of a much weaker nature. The best black teas in general use are
+pekoe and pouchong; the best green teas are imperial, young hyson,
+and gunpowder.
+
+
+TO MAKE COFFEE.
+
+The manner in which coffee is roasted is of great importance to
+its flavour. If roasted too little, it will be weak and insipid;
+if too much, the taste will be bitter and unpleasant. To have it
+very good, it should be roasted immediately before it is made,
+doing no more than the quantity you want at that time. It loses
+much of its strength by keeping, even in twenty-four hours after
+roasting. It should on no consideration be ground till directly
+before it is made. Every family should be provided with a coffee
+roaster, which is an iron cylinder to stand before the fire, and
+is either turned by a handle, or wound up like a jack to go of
+itself. If roasted in an open pot or pan, much of the flavour
+evaporates in the process. Before the coffee is put into the
+roaster, it should be carefully examined and picked, lest there
+should be stones or bad grains among it. It should be roasted of a
+bright brown; and will be improved by putting among it a piece of
+butter when about half done.
+
+Watch it carefully while roasting, looking at it frequently.
+
+A coffee-mill affixed to the wall is far more convenient than one
+that must he held on the lap. It is best to grind the coffee while
+warm.
+
+Allow half a pint of ground coffee to three pints of water. If the
+coffee is not freshly roasted, you should put in more. Put the
+water into the tin coffee-pot, and set it on hot coals; when it
+boils, put in the coffee, a spoonful at a time, (stirring it
+between each spoonful,) and add two or three chips of isinglass,
+or the white of an egg. Stir it frequently, till it has risen up
+to the top in boiling; then set it a little farther from the fire,
+and boil it gently for ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; after
+which pour in a tea-cup of cold water, and put it in the corner to
+settle for ten minutes. Scald your silver or china pot, and
+transfer the coffee to it; carefully pouring it off from the
+grounds, so as not to disturb them.
+
+If coffee is allowed to boil too long, it will lose much of its
+strength, and also become sour.
+
+
+FRENCH COFFEE.
+
+To make coffee without boiling, you must have a biggin, the best
+sort of which is what in France is called a Grecque. They are to
+be had of various sizes and prices at the tin stores. Coffee made
+in this manner is much less troublesome than when boiled, and
+requires no white of egg or isinglass to clear it. The coffee
+should be freshly roasted and ground. Allow two cupfuls of ground
+coffee to sis cupfuls of boiling water. Having first scalded the
+biggin, (which should have strainers of perforated tin, and not of
+linen,) put in the coffee, and pour on the water, which should be
+boiling hard at the time. Shut down the lid, place the pot near
+the fire, and the coffee will be ready as soon as it has all
+drained through the coarse and fine strainers into the receiver
+below the spout. Scald your china or silver pot, and pour the
+coffee into it. But it is best to have a biggin in the form of an
+urn, in which the coffee can both be made and brought to table.
+
+For what is called milk coffee,--boil the milk or cream
+separately; bring it to table in a covered vessel, and pour it hot
+into the coffee, the flavour of which will be impaired if the milk
+is boiled with it.
+
+
+
+
+DOMESTIC LIQUORS ETC.
+
+
+SPRUCE BEER
+
+Put into a large kettle, ten gallons of water, a quarter of a
+pound of hops, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Boil them together till
+all the hops sink to the bottom. Then dip out a bucket full of the
+liquor, and stir into it six quarts of molasses, and three ounces
+and a half of the essence of spruce. When all is dissolved, mix it
+with the liquor in the kettle; strain it through a hair sieve into
+a cask; and stir well into it half a pint of good strong yeast.
+Let it ferment a day or two; then bung up the cask, and you may
+bottle the beer the next day. It will be fit for use in a week.
+
+For the essence of spruce, you may substitute two pounds of the
+outer sprigs of the spruce fir, boiled ten minutes in the liquor.
+
+To make spruce beer for present use, and in a smaller quantity,
+boil a handful of hops in two gallons and a half of water, till
+they fall to the bottom, Then strain the water, and when it is
+lukewarm, stir into it a table-spoonful of ground white ginger; a
+pint of molasses; a table-spoonful of essence of spruce; and half
+a pint of yeast. Mix the whole well together in a stone jug, and
+let it ferment for a day and a half, or two days. Then put it into
+bottles, with three or four raisins in the bottom of each, to
+prevent any further fermentation. It will then be fit for
+immediate use.
+
+
+GINGER BEER.
+
+Break up a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, and mix with it three
+ounces of strong white ginger, and the grated peel of two lemons.
+Put these ingredients into a large stone jar, and pour over them
+two gallons of boiling water. When it becomes milk-warm strain it,
+and add the juice of the lemons and two large table-spoonfuls of
+strong yeast. Make this beer in the evening and let it stand all
+night. Next morning bottle it in little half pint stone bottles,
+tying down the corks with twine.
+
+
+MOLASSES BEER.
+
+To six quarts of water, add two quarts of West India molasses;
+half a pint of the best brewer's yeast; two table-spoonfuls of
+ground ginger; and one table-spoonful of cream of tartar. Stir all
+together. Let it stand twelve hours, and then bottle it, putting
+three or four raisins into each bottle.
+
+It will be much improved by substituting the juice and grated peel
+of a large lemon, for one of the spoonfuls of ginger.
+
+Molasses beer keeps good but two or three days.
+
+
+SASSAFRAS BEER.
+
+Have ready two gallons of soft water; one quart of wheat bran; a
+large handful of dried apples; half a pint of molasses; a small
+handful of hops; half a pint of strong fresh yeast, and a piece of
+sassafras root the size of an egg.
+
+Put all the ingredients (except the molasses and yeast) at once
+into a large kettle. Boil it till the apples are quite soft. Put
+the molasses into a small clean tub or a large pan. Set a hair
+sieve over the vessel, and strain the mixture through it. Let it
+stand till it becomes only milk-warm, and then stir in the yeast.
+Put the liquor immediately into the keg or jugs, and let it stand
+uncorked to ferment. Fill the jugs quite full, that the liquor in
+fermenting may run over. Set them in a large tub. When you see
+that the fermentation or working has subsided, cork it, and it
+will be fit for use next day.
+
+Two large table-spoonfuls of ginger stirred into the molasses will
+be found an improvement.
+
+If the yeast is stirred in while the liquor is too warm, it will
+be likely to turn sour.
+
+If the liquor is not put immediately into the jugs, it will not
+ferment well.
+
+Keep it in a cold place. It will not in warm weather be good more
+than two days. It is only made for present use.
+
+
+GOOSEBERRY WINE.
+
+Allow three gallons of soft water (measured after it has boiled an
+hour) to six gallons of gooseberries, which must be full ripe. Top
+and tail the gooseberries; put them, a few at a time, into a
+wooden dish, and with a rolling-pin or beetle break and mash every
+one; transferring them, as they are done, into a large stone jar.
+Pour the boiling water upon the mashed gooseberries; cover the
+jar, and let them stand twelve hours. Then strain and measure the
+juice, and to each quart allow three-quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar;
+mix it with the liquid, and let it stand eight or nine
+hours to dissolve, stirring it several times.
+
+Then pour it into a keg of proper size for containing it, and let
+it ferment at the bung-hole; filling it up as it works out with
+some of the liquor reserved for that purpose. As soon as it ceases
+to hiss, stop it close with a cloth wrapped round the bung. A pint
+of white brandy for every gallon of the gooseberry wine may be
+added on bunging it up. At the end of four or five months it will
+probably be fine enough to bottle off. It is best to bottle it in
+cold frosty weather. You may refine it by allowing to every gallon
+of wine the whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth, with a very
+small tea-spoonful of salt. When the white of egg, &c, is a stiff
+froth, take out a quart of the wine, and mix them well together.
+Then pour it into the cask, and in a few days it will be fine and
+clear. You may begin to use it any time after it is bottled. Put
+two or three raisins in the bottom of each bottle. They will tend
+to keep the wine from any farther fermentation.
+
+Fine gooseberry wine has frequently passed for champagne. Keep the
+bottles in saw-dust, lying on their sides.
+
+
+CURRANT WINE.
+
+Take four gallons of ripe currants; strip them from the stalks
+into a great stone jar that has a cover to it, and mash them with
+a long thick stick. Let them stand twenty-four hours; then put the
+currants into a large linen bag; wash out the jar, set it under
+the bag, and squeeze the juice into it. Boil together two gallons
+and a half of water, and five pounds and a half of the best loaf-sugar,
+skimming it well. When the scum ceases to rise, mix the
+syrup with the currant juice. Let it stand a fortnight or three
+weeks to settle; and then transfer it to another vessel, taking
+care not to disturb the lees or dregs. If it is not quite clear
+and bright, refine it by mixing with a quart of the wine, (taken
+out for the purpose,) the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff
+froth, and half an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour this gradually
+into the vessel. Let it stand ten days, and then bottle it off.
+Place the bottles in saw-dust, laying them on their sides. Take
+care that the saw-dust is not from pine wood. The wine will be fit
+to drink in a year, but is better when three or four years old.
+
+You may add a little brandy to it when you make it; allowing a
+quart of brandy to six gallons of wine.
+
+
+RASPBERRY WINE.
+
+Put four gallons of ripe raspberries into a stone jar, and mash
+them with a round stick. Take four gallons of soft water,
+(measured after it has boiled an hour,) and strain it warm over
+the raspberries. Stir it well and let it stand twelve hours. Then
+strain it through a bag, and to every gallon of liquor put three
+pounds of loaf-sugar. Set it over a clear fire, and boil and skim
+it till the scum ceases to rise. When it is cold bottle it. Open
+the bottles every day for a fortnight, closing them again in a few
+minutes. Then seal the corks, and lay the bottles on their sides
+in saw-dust, which must not be from pine wood.
+
+
+ELDERBERRY WINE.
+
+Gather the elderberries when quite ripe; put them into a stone
+jar, mash them with a round stick, and set them in a warm oven, or
+in a large kettle of boiling water till the jar is hot through,
+and the berries begin to simmer. Then take them out, and press and
+strain them through a sieve. To every quart of juice allow a pound
+of Havanna or Lisbon sugar, and two quarts of cold soft water. Put
+the sugar into a large kettle, pour the juice over it, and, when
+it has dissolved, stir in the water. Set the kettle over the fire,
+an& boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. To four gallons
+of the liquor add a pint and a half of brandy. Put it into a keg,
+and let it stand with the bung put in loosely for four or five
+days, by which time it will have ceased to ferment. Then stop it
+closely, plastering the bung with clay. At the end of six months,
+draw off a little of it; and if it is not quite clear and bright,
+refine it with the whites and shells of three or four eggs, beaten
+to a stiff froth and stirred into a quart of the wine, taken out
+for the purpose and then returned to the cask; or you may refine
+it with an ounce or more of dissolved isinglass. Let it stand a
+week or two, and then bottle it.
+
+This is an excellent domestic wine, very common in England, and
+deserving to be better known in America, where the elderberry tree
+is found in great abundance. Elderberry wine is generally taken
+mulled with spice, and warm.
+
+
+ELDER FLOWER WINE.
+
+Take the flowers or blossoms of the elder tree, and strip them
+from the stalks. To every quart of flowers allow one gallon of
+water, and three pounds of while sugar. Boil and skim the sugar
+and water, and then pour it hot on the flowers. When cool, mix in
+with it some lemon juice and some yeast; allowing to six gallons
+of the liquor the juice of six lemons, and four or five table-spoonfuls
+of good yeast stirred in very hard. Let it ferment for
+three days in a tub covered with a double blanket. Then strain the
+wine through a sieve, (add six whites of eggs beaten to a stiff
+froth, or an ounce of melted isinglass,) and put it into a cask,
+in the bottom of which you have laid four or five pounds of the
+best raisins, stoned. Stop the cask closely, and in six months the
+wine will be fit to bottle. It will much resemble Frontiniac, the
+elder flowers imparting to it a very pleasant taste.
+
+
+CIDER WINE.
+
+Take sweet cider immediately from the press. Strain it through a
+flannel bag into a tub, and stir into it as much honey as will
+make it strong enough to bear up an egg. Then boil and skim it,
+and when the scum ceases to rise, strain it again. When cool, put
+it into a cask, and set it in a cool cellar till spring. Then
+bottle it off; and when ripe, it will be found a very pleasant
+beverage. The cider must be of the very best quality, made
+entirely from good sound apples.
+
+
+MEAD.
+
+To every gallon of water put five pounds of strained honey, (the
+water must be hot when you add the honey,) and boil it three
+quarters of an hour, skimming it well. Then put in some hops tied
+in a thin bag, (allowing an ounce or a handful to each gallon,)
+and let it boil half an hour longer. Strain it into a tub, and let
+it stand four days. Then put it into a cask, (or into a demijohn
+if the quantity is small,) adding for each gallon of mead a jill
+of brandy and a sliced lemon. If a large cask, do not bottle it
+till it has stood a year.
+
+
+FOX GRAPE SHRUB.
+
+Gather the grapes when they are full grown, but before they begin
+to purple. Pick from the stems a sufficient quantity to nearly
+fill a large preserving kettle, and pour on them as much boiling
+water as the kettle will hold. Set it over a brisk fire, and keep
+it scalding hot till all the grapes have burst. Then take them
+off, press out and strain the liquor, and allow to each quart a
+pound of sugar stirred well in. Dissolve the sugar in the juice;
+then put them together into a clean kettle, and boil and skim them
+for ten minutes, or till the scum ceases to rise. When cold,
+bottle it; first putting into each bottle a jill of brandy. Seal
+the bottles, and keep them in a warm closet.
+
+You may make gooseberry shrub in this manner.
+
+
+CURRANT SHRUB.
+
+Your currants must be quite ripe. Pick them from the stalks, and
+squeeze them through a linen bag. To each quart of juice allow a
+pound of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar and juice into a preserving
+kettle, and let it melt before it goes on the fire. Boil it ten
+minutes, skimming it well. When cold, add a jill of the best white
+brandy to each quart of the juice. Bottle it, and set it away for
+use; sealing the corks. It improves by keeping.
+
+Raspberry shrub may be made in this manner; also strawberry.
+
+
+CHERRY SHRUB.
+
+Pick from the stalks, and stone a sufficient quantity of ripe
+morellas, or other red cherries of the best and most juicy
+description. Put them with all their juice into a stone jar, and
+set it, closely covered, into a deep kettle of boiling water. Keep
+it boiling hard for a quarter of an hour. Then pour the cherries
+into a bag, and strain and press out all the juice. Allow a pound
+of sugar to a quart of juice, boil them together ten minutes in a
+preserving kettle, skimming them well, and when cold, bottle the
+liquid; first putting a jill of brandy into each bottle.
+
+
+CHERRY BOUNCE.
+
+Mix together six pounds of ripe morellas and six pounds of large
+black heart cherries. Put them into a wooden bowl or tub, and with
+a pestle or mallet mash them so as to crack all the stones. Mix
+with the cherries three pounds of loaf-sugar, or of sugar candy
+broken up, and put them into a demijohn, or into a large stone
+jar. Pour on two gallons of the best double rectified whiskey.
+Stop the vessel closely, and let it stand three months, shaking it
+every day during the first month. At the end of the three months
+you may strain the liquor and bottle it off. It improves by age.
+
+
+LEMON SYRUP.
+
+Break up into large pieces six pounds of fine loaf-sugar. Take
+twelve large ripe lemons, and (without cutting them) grate the
+yellow rind upon the sugar. Then, put the sugar, with the lemon
+gratings and two quarts of water, into a preserving kettle, and
+let it dissolve. When it is all melted, boil it till quite thick,
+skimming it till no more scum rises; it will then be done. Have
+ready the juice of all the lemons, and when the syrup is quite
+cold, stir in the lemon juice. Bottle it, and keep it in a cool
+place.
+
+It makes a delicious drink in summer, in the proportion of one
+third lemon syrup and two thirds ice water.
+
+
+LEMON CORDIAL.
+
+Pare off very thin the yellow rind of a dozen large lemons; throw
+the parings into a gallon of white brandy, and let them steep till
+next day, or at least twelve hours. Break up four pounds of loaf-sugar
+into another vessel, and squeeze upon it the juice of the
+lemons. Let this too stand all night. Next day mix all together,
+boil two quarts of milk, and pour it boiling hot into the other
+ingredients. Cover the vessel, and let it stand eight days,
+stirring it daily. Then strain it through a flannel bag till the
+liquid is perfectly clear. Let it stand six weeks in a demijohn or
+glass jar, and then bottle it.
+
+To make it still more clear, you may filter it through a piece of
+fine muslin pinned down to the bottom of a sieve, or through
+blotting paper, which must be frequently renewed. It should be
+white blotting paper.
+
+
+ROSE CORDIAL.
+
+Put a pound of fresh rose leaves into a tureen, with a quart of
+lukewarm water. Cover the vessel, and let them infuse for twenty-four
+hours. Then squeeze them through a linen bag till all the
+liquid is pressed out. Put a fresh pound of rose leaves into the
+tureen, pour the liquid back into it, and let it infuse again for
+two days. You may repeat this till you obtain a very strong
+infusion. Then to a pint of the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar,
+half a pint of white brandy, an ounce of broken cinnamon,
+and an ounce of coriander seeds. Put it into a glass jar, cover it
+well, and let it stand for two weeks. Then filter it through a
+fine muslin or a blotting paper (which must be white) pinned on
+the bottom of a sieve; and bottle it for use.
+
+
+STRAWBERRY CORDIAL.
+
+Hull a sufficient quantity of ripe strawberries, and squeeze them
+through a linen bag. To each quart of the juice allow a pint of
+white brandy, and half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the
+liquid into a glass jar or a demijohn, and let it stand a
+fortnight. Then filter it through a sieve, to the bottom of which
+a piece of fine muslin or blotting paper has been fastened; and
+afterwards bottle it,
+
+
+RASPBERRY CORDIAL.
+
+May be made in the above manner.
+
+
+QUINCE CORDIAL.
+
+Take the finest and ripest quinces you can procure, wipe them
+clean, and cut out all the defective parts. Then grate them into a
+tureen or some other large vessel, leaving out the seeds and
+cores. Let the grated pulp remain covered in the tureen for
+twenty-four hours. Then, squeeze it through a jelly-bag or cloth.
+To six quarts of the juice allow a quart of cold water, three
+pounds of loaf-sugar, (broken up,) and a quart of white brandy.
+Mix the whole well together, and put it into a stone jar. Have
+ready three very small flannel or thick muslin bags, (not larger
+than two inches square,) fill one with grated nutmeg, another with
+powdered mace, and the third with powdered cloves; and pat them,
+into the jar that the spice may flavour the liquor without mixing
+with it. Leave the jar uncorked for a few days; reserving some of
+the liquor to replace that which may flow over in the
+fermentation. Whenever it has done working, bottle it off, but do
+not use it for six months. If not sufficiently bright and clear,
+filter it through fine muslin, pinned round the bottom of a
+sieve, or through a white blotting paper fastened in the same
+manner.
+
+
+PEACH CORDIAL.
+
+Take the ripest and most juicy free-stone peaches you can procure.
+Cut them from the stones, and quarter them without paring. Crack
+the stones, and extract the kernels, which must be blanched and
+slightly pounded. Put the peaches into a large stone jar in
+layers, alternately with layers of the kernels, and of powdered
+loaf-sugar. When the jar is three parts full of the peaches,
+kernels, and sugar, fill it up with white brandy. Set the Jar in a
+large pan, and leave it uncovered for three or four days, in case
+of its fermenting and flowing over at the top. Fill up what is
+thus wasted with more brandy, and then close the jar tightly. Let
+it stand, five or six months; then filter it, and bottle it for
+use.
+
+Cherry, apricot, and plum cordial may be made in the above manner;
+adding always the kernels.
+
+
+ANNISEED CORDIAL.
+
+Melt a pound of loaf-sugar in two quarts of water. Mix it with two
+quarts of white brandy, and add a table-spoonful of oil of
+anniseed. Let it stand a week; then filter it through, white
+blotting paper, and bottle it for use.
+
+Clove or Cinnamon Cordial may be made in the same manner, by
+mixing sugar, water and brandy, and adding oil of cinnamon or oil
+of cloves. You may colour any of these cordials red by stirring in
+a little powdered cochineal that has been dissolved in a small
+quantity of brandy.
+
+
+ROSE BRANDY.
+
+Nearly fill a china or glass jar with freshly-gathered rose
+leaves, and pour in sufficient French white brandy to fill it
+quite up; and then cover it closely. Next day put the whole into a
+strainer, and having squeezed and pressed the rose leaves and
+drained off the liquid, throw away the leaves, put fresh ones into
+the jar, and return the brandy to it. Repeat this every day while
+roses are in season, (taking care to keep the jar well covered,)
+and you will find the liquid much better than rose water for
+flavouring cakes and puddings.
+
+
+LEMON BRANDY.
+
+When you use lemons for punch or lemonade, do not throw away the
+peels, but cut them in small pieces, and put them into a glass jar
+or bottle of brandy. You will find this brandy useful for many
+purposes.
+
+In the same way keep for use the kernels of peach and plum stones,
+pounding them slightly before you put them into the brandy.
+
+
+NOYAU.
+
+Blanch and break up a pound of shelled bitter almonds or peach
+kernels. Mix with them the grated rinds of three large lemons,
+half a pint of clarified honey that has been boiled and skimmed,
+and three pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar. Put these
+ingredients into a jar or demijohn; pour in four quarts of the
+best white brandy or proof spirit; stop the vessel, and let it
+stand three months, shaking it every day for the first month. Then
+filter it, dilute it with rose water to your taste, (you may allow
+a quart of rose water to each quart of the liquor,) and bottle it
+for use.
+
+This and any other cordial may be coloured red by mixing with it
+(after it is filtered) cochineal, powdered, dissolved in a little
+white brandy, and strained through fine muslin.
+
+
+RATAFIA.
+
+Pound in a mortar, and mix together a pound of shelled bitter
+almonds, an ounce of nutmegs, a pound of fine loaf-sugar, and one
+grain (apothecaries' weight) of ambergris. Infuse these
+ingredients for a week in a gallon of white brandy or proof
+spirit. Then filter it, and bottle it for use.
+
+
+CAPILLAIRE.
+
+Powder eight pounds of loaf-sugar, and wet it with three pints of
+water and three eggs well beaten with their shells. Stir the whole
+mass very hard, and boil it twice over, skimming it well. Then
+strain it, and stir in two wine glasses of orange flower water.
+Bottle it, and use it for a summer draught, mixed with a little
+lemon juice and water; or you may sweeten punch with it.
+
+
+ORGEAT.
+
+To make orgeat paste, blanch, mix together, and pound in a mortar
+till perfectly smooth, three quarters of a pound of shelled sweet
+almonds, and one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds;
+adding frequently a little orange flower or rose water, to keep
+them from oiling; and mixing with them, as you proceed, a pound of
+fine loaf-sugar that has been previously powdered by itself. When
+the whole is thoroughly incorporated to a stiff paste, put it into
+little pots and close them well. It will keep five or six months,
+and, when you wish to use it for a beverage, allow a piece of
+orgeat about the size of an egg to each half pint or tumbler of
+water. Having well stirred it, strain the mixture through a
+napkin.
+
+To make liquid orgeat for present use; blanch and pound in a
+mortar, with rose water, a quarter of a pound of sweet and an
+ounce and a half of bitter almonds. Then sweeten three pints of
+rich milk with half a pound of loaf-sugar, and stir the almonds
+gradually into it. Boil it over hot coals; and as soon as it comes
+to a boil, take it off and stir it frequently till it gets cold.
+Then strain it, add a glass of brandy, and put it into decanters.
+When you pour it out for drinking dilute it with water.
+
+
+LEMONADE.
+
+Take fine ripe lemons, and roll them under your hand on the table
+to increase the quantity of juice. Then cut and squeeze them into
+a pitcher, and mix the juice with loaf-sugar and cold water. To
+half a pint of lemon juice you may allow a pint and a half of
+water; and ten or twelve moderate sized lumps of sugar. Send it
+round in little glasses with handles.
+
+To make a tumbler of _very good_ lemonade, allow the juice of
+one lemon and four or five lumps of sugar, filling up the glass
+with water. In summer use ice water.
+
+
+ORANGEADE.
+
+Is made of oranges, in the same proportion as lemonade. It is very
+fine when frozen.
+
+
+PUNCH.
+
+Roll twelve fine lemons under your hand on the table; then pare
+off the yellow rind very thin, and boil it in a gallon of water
+till all the flavour is drawn out. Break up into a large bowl, two
+pounds of loaf-sugar, and squeeze the lemons over it. When the
+water has boiled sufficiently, strain it from the lemon-peel, and
+mix it with the lemon juice and sugar. Stir in a quart of rum or
+of the best whiskey.
+
+Two scruples of flowers of benjamin, steeped in a quart of rum,
+will make an infusion which much resembles the arrack of the East
+Indies. It should be kept in a bottle, and a little of it will be
+found to impart a very fine and fragrant flavour to punch made in
+the usual manner.
+
+
+FROZEN PUNCH.
+
+Is made as above, omitting one half of the rum or whiskey. Put it
+into an ice-cream freezer, shaking or stirring it all the time,
+when it is frozen, send it round immediately, in small glasses
+with a tea-spoon for each.
+
+
+ROMAN PUNCH.
+
+Grate the yellow rinds of twelve lemons and two oranges upon two
+pounds of loaf-sugar. Squeeze on the juice of the lemons and
+oranges; cover it, and let it stand till next day. Then strain it
+through a sieve, add a bottle of champagne, and the whites of
+eight eggs beaten to a froth. You may freeze it or not.
+
+
+MILK PUNCH.
+
+What is commonly called milk punch, is a mixture of brandy or rum,
+sugar, milk and nutmeg, with-without either lemon juice or water.
+It is taken cold with a lump of ice in each tumbler.
+
+
+FINE MILK PUNCH.
+
+Pare off the yellow rind of nine large lemons, and steep it for
+twenty-four hours in a quart of brandy or rum. Then mix with it
+the juice of the lemons, a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, two
+grated nutmegs, and a quart of water. Add a quart of rich
+unskimmed milk, made boiling hot, and strain the whole through a
+jelly-bag. You may either use it as soon as it is cold, or make a
+larger quantity, (in the above proportions,) and bottle it. It
+will keep several months.
+
+
+REGENT'S PUNCH.
+
+Take four large lemons; roll them on the table to make them more
+juicy, and then pare them as thin as possible. Cut out all the
+pulp, and throw away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put
+the yellow rind and the pulp into a pint of boiling water with two
+tea-spoonfuls of raw green tea of the best sort. Let all boil
+together about ten minutes. Then strain it through linen, and stir
+in a pound of powdered loaf-sugar and a bottle of champagne, or of
+any liquor suitable for punch. Set it again over the fire, and
+when just ready to boil, remove it, and pour it into a china bowl
+or pitcher, to be sent round in glasses.
+
+
+WINE JELLY.
+
+Clarify a pound of loaf-sugar, by mixing it with half
+a pint of water and the beaten white of an egg, and then boiling
+and skimming it. Put an ounce of isinglass (with as much boiling
+water as will cover it) into a small sauce-pan, and set it in hot
+coals till the isinglass is thoroughly dissolved. Then when the
+syrup has been taken from the fire, mix the melted isinglass with
+it, add a quart of white wine and stir in a table-spoonful or a
+spoonful and a half of old Jamaica spirits. Stir the mixture very
+hard, and pour it into a mould. When it has congealed, wrap a
+cloth dipped in warm water round the outside of the mould; turn
+out the jelly, and eat it with ice-cream.
+
+
+BISHOP.
+
+The day before you want to use the liquor toast four large oranges
+till they are of a pale brown. You may do them either before a
+clear fire or in the oven of a stove. Dissolve half a pound of
+loaf-sugar in half a pint of claret. When the oranges are roasted,
+quarter them without peeling, lay them in the bottom of a bowl or
+a tureen, add two beaten nutmegs and some cinnamon, and pour on
+them the wine and sugar. Cover it, and let it stand till next day.
+Then having heated the remainder of the bottle of claret till it
+nearly boils, pour it into a pitcher, and having first pressed and
+mashed the pieces of orange with a spoon to bring out the juice,
+put them with the sugar, &c. into a cloth, and strain the liquid
+into the hot claret. Serve it warm in large glasses.
+
+
+MULLED WINE.
+
+Boil together in a pint of water two beaten nutmegs, a handful of
+broken cinnamon, and a handful of cloves slightly pounded. When
+the liquid is reduced to one half, strain it into a quart of port
+wine, which must be set on hot coals, and taken off as soon as it
+comes to a boil. Serve it up hot in a pitcher with little glass
+cups round it, and a plate of fresh rusk.
+
+
+MULLED CIDER.
+
+Allow six eggs to a quart of cider. Put a handful of whole cloves
+into the cider, and boil it. While it is boiling, beat the eggs in
+a large pitcher; adding to them as much sugar as will make the
+cider very sweet. By the time the cider boils, the eggs will be
+sufficiently light. Pour the boiling liquor on the beaten egg, and
+continue to pour the mixture backwards and forwards from one
+pitcher to another, till it has a fine froth on it. Then pour it
+warm into your glasses, and grate some nutmeg over each.
+
+Port wine may be mulled in the same manner.
+
+
+EGG NOGG.
+
+Beat separately the yolks and whites of six eggs. Stir the yolks
+into a quart of rich milk, or thin cream, and add half a pound of
+sugar. Then mix in half a pint of rum or brandy. Flavour it with a
+grated nutmeg. Lastly, stir in gently the beaten white of an egg.
+
+It should be mixed in a china bowl.
+
+
+SANGAREE.
+
+Mix in a pitcher or in tumblers one-third of wine, ale, or porter,
+with two-thirds of water either warm or cold. Stir in sufficient
+loaf-sugar to sweeten it, and grate some nutmeg into it.
+
+By adding to it lemon juice, you may make what is called negus.
+
+
+TURKISH SHERBET.
+
+Having washed a fore-quarter or knuckle of veal, and cracked the
+bones, put it on to boil with two quarts and a pint of water. Let
+it boil till the liquid is reduced to one quart, and skim it well.
+Then strain it, and set it away to cool. When quite cold, mix with
+it a pint and a half of clear lemon juice, and a pint and a half
+of capillaire or clear sugar-syrup. If you have no capillaire
+ready, boil two pounds of loaf-sugar in a pint and a half of
+water, clearing it with the beaten white of an egg mixed into the
+sugar and water before boiling. Serve the sherbet cold or iced, in
+glass mugs at the dessert, or offer it as a refreshment at any
+other time.
+
+Sherbet may be made of the juice of various sorts of fruit.
+
+
+BOTTLED SMALL BEER.
+
+Take a quart bottle of the very best brisk porter, and mix it with
+four quarts of water, a pint of molasses, and a table-spoonful of
+ginger. Bottle it, and see that the corks are of the very best
+kind. It will be fit for use in three or four days.
+
+
+TO KEEP LEMON JUICE.
+
+Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar; put it into a bowl, and
+strain over it a pint of lemon juice; stirring it well with a
+silver spoon till the sugar has entirely melted. Then bottle it,
+sealing the corks; and keep it in a dry place.
+
+
+ESSENCE OF LEMON-PEEL.
+
+Rub lumps of loaf-sugar on fine ripe lemons till the yellow rind
+is all grated off; scraping up the sugar in a tea-spoon, and
+putting it on a plate as you proceed. When you have enough, press
+it down into a little glass or china jar, and cover it closely.
+This will be found very fine to flavour puddings and cakes.
+
+Prepare essence of orange-peel in the same manner.
+
+
+CIDER VINEGAR.
+
+Take six quarts of rye meal; stir and mix it well into a barrel of
+strong hard cider of the best kind; and then add a gallon of
+whiskey. Cover the cask, (leaving the bung loosely in it,) set it
+in the part of your yard that is most exposed to the sun and air;
+and in the course of four weeks (if the weather is warm and dry)
+you will have good vinegar fit for use. When you draw off a gallon
+or more, replenish the cask with the same quantity of cider, and
+add about a pint of whiskey. You may thus have vinegar constantly
+at hand for common purposes.
+
+The cask should have iron hoops.
+
+A very strong vinegar may be made by mixing cider and strained
+honey, (allowing a pound of honey to a gallon of cider,) and
+letting it stand five or six months. This vinegar is so powerful
+that for common purposes it should be diluted with a little water.
+
+Vinegar may be made in the same manner of sour wine.
+
+
+WHITE VINEGAR.
+
+Put into a cask a mixture composed of five gallons of water, two
+gallons of whiskey, and a quart of strong yeast, stirring in two
+pounds of powdered charcoal. Place it where it will ferment
+properly, leaving the bung loose till the fermentation is over,
+but covering the hole slightly to keep out the dust and insects.
+At the end of four months draw it off, and you will have a fine
+vinegar, as clear and colourless as water.
+
+
+SUGAR VINEGAR.
+
+To every gallon of water allow a pound of the best brown sugar,
+and a jill or more of strong yeast. Mix the sugar and water
+together, and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Then
+pour it into a tub; and when it cools to lukewarm heat, put into
+it the yeast spread on pieces of toast. Let it work two days; then
+put it into an iron-hooped cask, and set it in a sunny place for
+five months, leaving the bung loose, but keeping the bung-hole
+covered. In five months it will be good clear vinegar, and you may
+bottle it for use.
+
+A cask that has not contained vinegar before, should have a quart
+of boiling hot vinegar poured into it, shaken about frequently
+till cold, and allowed to stand some hours.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK.
+
+
+CHICKEN JELLY.
+
+Take a large chicken, cut it up into very small pieces, bruise the
+bones, and put the whole into a stone jar with a cover that will
+make it water tight. Set the jar in a large kettle of boiling
+water, and keep it boiling for three hours. Then strain off the
+liquid, and season it slightly with salt, pepper, and mace; or
+with loaf-sugar and lemon juice, according to the taste of the
+person for whom it is intended.
+
+Return the fragments of the chicken to the jar, and set it again
+in a kettle of boiling water. You will find that you can collect
+nearly as much jelly by the second boiling.
+
+This jelly may be made of an old fowl.
+
+
+BREAD JELLY.
+
+Measure a quart of boiling water, and set it away to get cold.
+Take one-third of a six cent loaf of bread, slice it, pare off the
+crust, and toast the crumb nicely of a light brown. Then put it
+into the boiled water, set it on hot coals in a covered pan, and
+boil it gently, till you find by putting some in a spoon to cool,
+that the liquid has become a jelly. Strain it through a thin
+cloth, and set it away for use. When it is to be taken, warm a
+tea-cupful, sweeten it with sugar, and add a little grated lemon-peel.
+
+
+ARROW ROOT JELLY.
+
+Mix three table-spoonfuls of arrow root powder in a tea-cup of
+water till quite smooth, cover it, and let it stand a quarter of
+an hour. Put the yellow peel of a lemon into a skillet with a pint
+of water, and let it boil till reduced to one half. Then take out
+the lemon-peel, and pour in the dissolved arrow root, (while the
+water is still boiling;) add sufficient white sugar to sweeten it
+well, and let it boil together for five or six minutes. It may be
+seasoned (if thought necessary) with two tea-spoonfuls of wine,
+and some grated nutmeg.
+
+It may be boiled in milk instead of water, or in wine and water,
+according to the state of the person for whom it is wanted.
+
+
+RICE JELLY.
+
+Having picked and washed a quarter of a pound of rice, mix it with
+half a pound of loaf-sugar, and just sufficient water to cover it.
+Boil it till it becomes a glutinous mass; then strain it; season
+it with whatever may be thought proper; and let it stand to cool.
+
+
+PORT WINE JELLY.
+
+Melt in a little warm water an ounce of isinglass; stir it into a
+pint of port wine, adding two ounces of sugar candy, an ounce of
+gum arabic, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix all well, and boil it
+ten minutes; or till every thing is thoroughly dissolved. Then
+strain it through muslin, and set it away to get cold.
+
+
+SAGO.
+
+Wash the sago through two or three water, and then let it soak for
+two or three hours. To a tea-cupful of sago allow a quart of water
+and some of the yellow peel of a lemon. Simmer it till all the
+grains look transparent. Then add as much wine and nutmeg as may
+be proper, and give it another boil altogether. If seasoning is
+not advisable, the sago may be boiled in milk instead of water,
+and eaten plain.
+
+
+TAPIOCA.
+
+Wash the tapioca well, and let it steep for five or six hours,
+changing the water three times. Simmer it in the last water till
+quite clear, then season it with sugar and wine, or lemon juice.
+
+
+GRUEL.
+
+Allow three large table-spoonfuls of oatmeal or Indian meal to a
+quart of water. Put the meal into a large bowl, and add the water,
+a little at a time, mixing and bruising the meal with the back of
+a spoon. As you proceed, pour off the liquid into another bowl,
+every time, before adding fresh water to the meal, till you have
+used it all up. Then boil the mixture for twenty minutes, stirring
+it all the while; add a little salt. Then strain the gruel and
+sweeten it. A piece of butter may be stirred into it; and, if
+thought proper, a little wine and nutmeg. It should be taken warm.
+
+
+OATMEAL GRUEL.
+
+Put four table-spoonfuls of the best grits (oatmeal coarsely
+ground) into a pint of boiling water. Let it boil gently, and stir
+it often, till it becomes as thick as you wish it. Then strain it,
+and add to it while warm, butter, wine, nutmeg, or whatever is
+thought proper to flavour it.
+
+If you make the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to a
+thick batter with a little cold water, and then put it into the
+sauce-pan of boiling water. Stir it all the time it is boiling,
+lifting the spoon gently up and down, and letting the gruel fall
+slowly back again into the pan.
+
+
+PANADA.
+
+Having pared off the crust, boil some slices of bread in a quart
+of water for about five minutes. Then take out the bread, and beat
+it smooth in a deep dish, mixing in a little of the water it has
+boiled in; and mix it with a bit of fresh butter, and sugar and
+nutmeg to your taste. Another way is to grate some bread, or to
+grate or pound a few crackers. Pour on boiling water, beat it
+well, and add sugar and nutmeg.
+
+
+BARLEY WATER.
+
+Wash clean some barley, (either pearl or common) and to two ounces
+of barley allow a quart of water. Put it into a sauce-pan, adding,
+if you choose, an equal quantity of stoned raisins; or some lemon-peel
+and sugar; or some liquorice root cut up. Let it boil slowly
+till the liquid is reduced one half. Then strain it off, and
+sweeten it.
+
+
+GROUND RICE MILK.
+
+Mix in a bowl two table-spoonfuls of ground rice, with sufficient
+milk to make a thin batter. Then stir it gradually into a pint of
+milk and boil it with sugar, lemon-peel or nutmeg.
+
+
+BEEF TEA.
+
+Cut a pound of the lean of fresh juicy beef into small thin
+slices, and sprinkle them with a very little salt. Put the meat
+into a wide-mouthed glass or stone jar closely corked, and set it
+in a kettle or pan of water, which must be made to boil, and kept
+boiling hard round the jar for an hour or more. Then take out the
+jar and strain the essence of the beef into a bowl. Chicken tea
+may be made in the same manner.
+
+
+MUTTON BROTH.
+
+Cut off all the fat from a loin of mutton, and to each pound of
+the lean allow a quart of water. Season it with a little salt and
+some shred parsley, and put in some large pieces of the crust of
+bread. Boil it slowly for two or three hours, skimming it
+carefully.
+
+Beef, veal, or chicken broth may be made in the same manner.
+
+Vegetables may be added if approved. Also barley or rice.
+
+
+MUTTON BROTH MADE QUICKLY.
+
+Cut three chops from the best part of a neck of mutton, and remove
+the fat and skin. Beat the meat on both sides and slice it thin.
+Put into a small sauce-pan with a pint of water, a little salt,
+and some crust of bread cut into pieces. You may add a little
+parsley, and a small onion sliced thin. Cover the sauce-pan, and
+set it over the fire. Boil it fast, skim it, and in half an hour
+it should be ready for use.
+
+
+WINE WHEY.
+
+Boil a pint of milk; and when it rises to the top of the sauce-pan,
+pour in a large glass of sherry or Madeira. It will be the
+better for adding a glass of currant wine also. Let it again boil
+up, and then take the sauce-pan off the fire, and set it aside to
+stand for a few minutes, but do not stir it. Then remove the curd,
+(if it has completely formed,) and pour the clear whey into a bowl
+and sweeten it.
+
+When wine is considered too heating, the whey may be made by
+turning the milk with lemon juice.
+
+
+RENNET WHEY.
+
+Wash a small bit of rennet about two inches square, in cold water,
+to get off the salt. Put it into a tea-cup and pour on it
+sufficient lukewarm water to cover it. Let it stand all night, and
+in the morning stir the rennet water into a quart pitcher of warm
+milk. Cover it, and set it near the fire till a firm curd is
+formed. Pour off the whey from it, and it will be found an
+excellent and cooling drink. The curd may be eaten (though not by
+a sick person) with wine, sugar, and nutmeg.
+
+
+CALF'S FEET BROTH.
+
+Boil two calf's feet in two quarts of water, till the liquid is
+reduced one half, and the meat has dropped to pieces. Then strain
+it into a deep dish or pan, and set it by to get cold. When it has
+congealed, take all the fat carefully off; put a tea-cupful of the
+jelly into a sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. When it has
+nearly boiled, stir in by degrees the beaten yolk of an egg, and
+then take it off immediately. You may add to it a little sugar,
+and some grated lemon-peel and nutmeg.
+
+
+CHICKEN BROTH AND PANADA.
+
+Cut up a chicken, season it with a very little salt, and put it
+into three quarts of water. Let it simmer slowly till the flesh
+drops to pieces. You may make chicken panada or gruel of the same
+fowl, by taking out the white meat as soon as it is tender,
+mincing it fine, and then pounding it in a mortar, adding as you
+pound it, sufficient of the chicken water to moisten the paste.
+You may thin it with water till it becomes liquid enough to drink.
+Then put it into a sauce-pan and boil it gently a few minutes.
+Taken in small quantities, it will be found very nutritious. You
+may add to it a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg.
+
+
+VEGETABLE SOUP.
+
+Take a white onion, a turnip, a pared potato, and a head of
+celery, or a large tea-spoonful of celery seed. Put the vegetables
+whole into a quart of water, (adding a little salt,) and boil it
+slowly till reduced to a pint. Make a slice of nice toast; lay it
+in the bottom of a bowl, and strain the soup over it.
+
+
+ONION SOUP.
+
+Put half a pound of the best fresh butter into a stew-pan on the
+fire, and let it boil till it has done making a noise; then have
+ready twelve large onions peeled and cut small; throw them into
+the butter, add a little salt, and stew them a quarter of an hour.
+Then dredge in a little flour, and stir the whole very hard; and
+in five minutes pour in a quart of boiling water, and some of the
+upper crust of bread, cut small. Let the soup boil ten minutes
+longer, stirring it often; and after you take it from the fire,
+stir in the yolks of two beaten eggs, and serve it up immediately,
+
+In France this soup is considered a fine restorative after any
+unusual fatigue. Instead of butter, the onions may be boiled in
+veal or chicken broth.
+
+
+TOAST AND WATER.
+
+Toast some slices of bread very nicely, without allowing them to
+burn or blacken. Then put them into a pitcher, and fill it up with
+boiling water. Let it stand till it is quite cold; then strain it,
+and put it into a decanter. Another way of preparing toast and
+water is to put the toasted bread into a mug and pour cold water
+on it. Cover it closely, and let it infuse for at least an hour.
+Drink it cold.
+
+
+APPLE WATER.
+
+Pare and slice a fine juicy apple; pour boiling water over it,
+cover it, and let it stand till cold.
+
+
+TAMARIND WATER.
+
+Put tamarinds into a pitcher or tumbler till it is one-third full;
+then fill it up with cold water, cover it, and let it infuse for a
+quarter of an hour or more.
+
+Currant jelly or cranberry juice mixed with water makes a pleasant
+drink for an invalid.
+
+
+MOLASSES POSSETS.
+
+Put into a sauce-pan a pint of the best West India molasses; a
+tea-spoonful of powdered white ginger; and a quarter of a pound of
+fresh butter. Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly for half
+an hour; stirring it frequently. Do not let it come to a boil.
+Then stir in the juice of two lemons, or two table-spoonfuls of
+vinegar; cover the pan, and let it stand by the fire five minutes
+longer. This is good for a cold. Some of it may be taken warm at
+once, and the remainder kept at hand for occasional use.
+
+It is the preparation absurdly called by the common people a
+stewed quaker.
+
+Half a pint of strained honey mixed cold with the juice of a
+lemon, and a table-spoonful of sweet oil, is another remedy for a
+cold; a tea-spoonful or two to be taken whenever the cough is
+troublesome.
+
+
+FLAX-SEED LEMONADE.
+
+To a large table-spoonful of flax-seed allow a tumbler and a half
+of cold water. Boil them together till the liquid becomes very
+sticky. Then strain it hot over a quarter of a pound of pulverized
+sugar candy, and an ounce of pulverized gum arabic. Stir it till
+quite dissolved, and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon.
+
+This mixture has frequently been found an efficacious remedy for a
+cold; taking a wine-glass of it as often as the cough is
+troublesome.
+
+
+COCOA.
+
+Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of good cocoa (the chocolate nut
+before it is ground) and one quart of water. Cover it, and as soon
+as it has come to a boil, set it on coals by the side of the fire,
+to simmer for an hour or more. Take it hot with dry toast.
+
+
+COCOA SHELLS.
+
+These can be procured at the principal grocers and confectioners,
+or at a chocolate manufactory. They are the thin shells that
+envelope the chocolate kernel, and are sold at a low price; a
+pound contains a very large quantity. Soak them in water for five
+or six hours or more, (it will be better to soak them all night,)
+and then boil them in the same water. They should boil two hours.
+Strain the liquid when done, and let it be taken warm.
+
+
+RAW EGG.
+
+Break a fresh egg into a saucer, and mix a little sugar with it;
+also, if approved, a small quantity of wine. Beat the whole to a
+strong froth. It is considered a restorative.
+
+
+SODA WATER.
+
+To forty grains of carbonate of soda, add thirty grains of
+tartaric acid in small crystals. Fill a soda bottle with spring
+water, put in the mixture, and cork it instantly with a well-fitting cork.
+
+
+SEIDLITZ POWDERS.
+
+Fold in a white paper one drachm of Rochelle salts. In a blue
+paper a mixture of twenty grains of tartaric acid, and twenty-five
+grains of carbonate of soda. They should all be pulverized very
+fine. Put the contents of the white paper into a tumbler not quite
+half full of cold water, and stir it till dissolved. Then put the
+mixture from the blue paper into another tumbler with the same
+quantity of water, and stir that also. When the powders are
+dissolved in both tumblers, pour the first into the other, and it
+will effervesce immediately. Drink it quickly while foaming.
+
+
+BITTERS.
+
+Take two ounces of gentian root, an ounce of Virginia snake root,
+an ounce of the yellow paring of orange peel, and half a drachm of
+cochineal. Steep these ingredients, for a week or more, in a quart
+of Madeira or sherry wine, or brandy. When they are thoroughly
+infused, strain and filter the liquor, and bottle it for use. This
+is considered a good tonic, taken in a small cordial glass about
+noon.
+
+
+ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT.
+
+Mix an ounce of oil of peppermint with a pint of alcohol. Then
+colour it by putting in some leaves of green mint. Let it stand
+till the colour is a fine green; then filter it through blotting
+paper. Drop it on sugar when you take it.
+
+Essence of pennyroyal, mint, cinnamon, cloves, &c. may all be
+prepared in the same manner by mixing a portion of the essential
+oil with a little alcohol.
+
+You may obtain liquid camphor by breaking up and dissolving a lump
+in white brandy or spirit of wine.
+
+
+LAVENDER COMPOUND.
+
+Fill a quart bottle with lavender blossoms freshly gathered, and
+put in loosely; then pour in as much of the best brandy as it will
+contain. Let it stand a fortnight, and then strain it. Afterwards,
+mix with it of powdered cloves, mace, nutmeg and cochineal, a
+quarter of an ounce of each; and cork it up for use in small
+bottles. When taken, a little should be dropped on a lump of
+sugar.
+
+
+LEAD WATER.
+
+Mix two table-spoonfuls of extract of lead with a bottle of rain
+or river water. Then add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and shake
+it well.
+
+
+[Footnote: These remedies are all very simple; but the author
+_knows_ them to have been efficacious whenever tried.]
+
+
+REMEDY FOR A BURN.
+
+After immediately applying sweet oil, scrape the inside of a raw
+potato, and lay some of it on the place, securing it with a rag.
+In a short time put on fresh potato, and repeat this application
+very frequently. It will give immediate ease, and draw out the
+fire. Of course, if the burn is bad, it is best to send for a
+physician.
+
+
+FOR CHILBLAINS.
+
+Dip the feet every night and morning in cold water, withdrawing
+them in a minute or two, and drying them by rubbing them very hard
+with a coarse towel. To put them immediately into a pail of brine
+brought from a pickle tub is another excellent remedy when feet
+are found to be frosted.
+
+
+FOR CORNS.
+
+Mix together a little Indian meal and cold water, till it is about
+the consistence of thick mush. Then bind it on the corn by
+wrapping a small slip of thin rag round the toe. It will not
+prevent you from wearing your shoe and stocking. In two or three
+hours take it off, and you will find the corn much softened. Cut
+off as much of it as is soft with a penknife or scissors. Then put
+on a fresh poultice, and repeat it till the corn is entirely
+levelled, as it will be after a few regular applications of the
+remedy; which will be found successful whenever the corn returns.
+There is no permanent cure for them.
+
+
+WARTS.
+
+To remove the hard callous horny warts which sometimes appear on
+the hands of children, touch the wart carefully with a new pen
+dipped slightly in aqua-fortis. It will give no pain; and after
+repeating it a few times, the wart will be found so loose as to
+come off by rubbing it with the finger.
+
+
+RING-WORMS.
+
+Rub mercurial ointment on the ring-worm previous to going to bed,
+and do not wash it off till morning. It will effect a cure if
+persevered in; sometimes in less than a week.
+
+
+MUSQUITO BITES.
+
+Salt wetted into a sort of paste, with a little vinegar, and
+plastered on the bite, will immediately allay the pain; and if not
+rubbed, no mark will be seen next day. It is well to keep salt and
+vinegar always in a chamber that is infested with musquitoes. It
+is also good for the sting of a wasp or bee; and for the bite of
+any venomous animal, if applied immediately. It should be left on
+till it becomes dry, and then renewed.
+
+
+ANTIDOTE FOR LAUDANUM.
+
+When so large a quantity of laudanum has been swallowed as to
+produce dangerous effects, the fatal drowsiness has been prevented
+when all other remedies have failed, by administering a cup of the
+strongest possible coffee. The patient has revived and recovered,
+and no ill effects have followed.
+
+
+GREEN OINTMENT.
+
+Take two or three large handfuls of the fresh-gathered leaves of
+the Jamestown weed, (called Apple Peru in New England,) and pound
+it in a mortar till you have extracted the juice. Then put the
+juice into a tin sauce-pan, mixed with sufficient lard to make a
+thick salve. Stew them together ten or fifteen minutes, and then
+pour the mixture into gallipots and cover it closely. It is
+excellent to rub on chilblains, and other inflammatory external
+swellings, applying it several times a day.
+
+
+TO STOP BLOOD.
+
+For a prick with a pin, or a slight cut, nothing will more
+effectually stop the bleeding than old cobwebs compressed into a
+lump and applied to the wound, or bound on it with a rag. A scrap
+of cotton wadding is also good for stopping blood.
+
+
+
+
+PERFUMERY, ETC.
+
+
+COLOGNE WATER.
+
+Procure at a druggists, one drachm of oil of lavender, the same
+quantity of oil of lemon, of oil of rosemary, and of oil of
+cinnamon; with two drachms of oil of bergamot, all mixed in the
+same phial, which should be a new one. Shake the oils well, and
+pour them into a pint of spirits of wine. Cork the bottle tightly,
+shake it hard, and it will be fit for immediate use; though it
+improves by keeping. You may add to the oils, if you choose, ten
+drops of the tincture of musk, or ten drops of extract of
+ambergris.
+
+For very fine cologne water, mix together in a new phial oil of
+lemon, two drachms; oil of bergamot, two drachms; oil of lavender,
+two drachms; oil of cedrat, one drachm; tincture of benzoin, three
+drachms; neroli, ten drops; ambergris, ten drops; attar of roses,
+two drops. Pour the mixture into a pint of spirits of wine; cork
+and shake the bottle, and set it away for use.
+
+Another receipt for cologne water is to mix with a pint of
+alcohol, sixty drops or two large tea-spoonfuls of orange-flower
+water, and the same quantity of the essential oils of lemon,
+lavender, and bergamot.
+
+
+LAVENDER WATER.
+
+Mix two ounces of essential oil of lavender, and two drachms of
+essence of ambergris, with a pint of spirits of wine; cork the
+bottle, and shake it hard every day for a fortnight.
+
+
+HUNGARY WATER.
+
+Mix together one ounce of oil of rosemary and two drachms of
+essence of ambergris; add them to a pint of spirits of wine. Shake
+it daily for a month, and then transfer it to small bottles.
+
+
+ROSE VINEGAR.
+
+Fill a stone or china jar with fresh rose leaves put in loosely.
+Then pour on them as much of the best white wine vinegar as the
+jar will hold. Cover it, and set it in the sun, or in some other
+warm place for three weeks. Then strain it through a flannel bag,
+and bottle it for use, This vinegar will he found very fine for
+salads, or for any nice purposes.
+
+
+THIEVES' VINEGAR.
+
+Take a large handful of lavender blossoms, and the same quantity
+of sage, mint, rue, wormwood and rosemary. Chop and mix them well.
+Put them into a jar, with half an ounce of camphor that has been
+dissolved in a little alcohol, and pour in three quarts of strong
+clear vinegar. Keep the jar for two or three weeks in the hot sun,
+and at night plunge it into a box of heated sand. Afterwards
+strain and bottle the liquid, putting into each bottle a clove of
+garlic sliced. To have it very clear, after it has been bottled
+for a week, you should pour it off carefully from the sediment,
+and filter it through blotting paper. Then wash the bottles, and
+return the vinegar to them. It should be kept very tightly corked.
+It is used for sprinkling about in sick-rooms; and also in close
+damp oppressive weather. Inhaling the odour from a small bottle
+will frequently prevent faintness in a crowd.
+
+It is best to make it in June.
+
+This vinegar is so called from an old tradition, that during the
+prevalence of the plague in London the composition was invented by
+four thieves, who found it a preservative from contagion; and were
+by that means enabled to remain in the city and exercise their
+profession to great advantage, after most of the inhabitants had
+fled.
+
+
+OIL OF FLOWERS.
+
+A French process for obtaining essential oils from flowers or
+herbs has been described as follows:--Take carded cotton, or split
+wadding and steep it in some pure Florence oil, such as is quite
+clear and has no smell. Then place a layer of this cotton in the
+bottom of a deep china dish, or in an earthen pipkin. Cover it
+with a thick layer of fresh rose leaves, or the leaves of sweet
+pink, jasmine, wall-flower, tuberose, magnolia blossoms, or any
+other odoriferous flower or plant from which you wish to obtain
+the perfume. Spread over the flower-leaves another layer of cotton
+that has been steeped in oil. Afterwards a second layer of
+flowers, and repeat them alternately till the vessel is quite
+full. Cover it closely, and let it stand in the sun for a week.
+Then throw away the flower-leaves, carefully press out the oil
+from the cotton, and put it into a small bottle for use. The oil
+will be found to have imbibed the odour of the flowers.
+
+Keep the scented cotton to perfume your clothes-presses.
+
+
+BALM OF GILEAD OIL.
+
+Put loosely into a bottle as many balm of Gilead flowers as will
+come up to a third part of its height; then nearly fill up the
+bottle with sweet oil, which should be of the best quality. Let it
+infuse (shaking it occasionally) for several days, and it will
+then be fit for use. It is considered a good remedy for bruises of
+the skin; also for cuts, burns, and scalds that are not very bad,
+and should be applied immediately,--by wetting a soft rag with it;
+renewing it frequently,
+
+
+LIP SALVE.
+
+Put into a wide-mouthed bottle four ounces of the best olive oil,
+with one ounce of the small parts of alkanet root. Stop up the
+bottle, and set it in the sun, (shaking it often,) till you find
+the liquid of a beautiful crimson. Then strain off the oil very
+clear from the alkanet root, put it into an earthen pipkin, and
+add to it an ounce of white wax, and an ounce and a half of the
+best mutton suet, which has been previously clarified, or boiled
+and skimmed. Set the mixture on the embers of coals, and melt it
+slowly: stirring it well. After it has simmered slowly far a
+little while, take it off; and while still hot, mix with it a few
+drops of oil of roses, or of oil of neroli, or tincture of musk.
+
+
+COLD CREAM.
+
+Cut very fine a drachm of white wax and a drachm of spermaceti.
+Put it into a small sauce-pan with one ounce of oil of sweet
+almonds, and mix them well together. Set it on hot coals, and as
+soon as it has boiled take it off, and stir in an ounce of orange-flower
+or rose-water. Beat it very hard, and then put it into
+gallipots.
+
+
+SOFT POMATUM.
+
+Soak half a pound of fresh lard and a quarter of a pound of beef
+marrow in water for two or three days; squeezing and pressing it
+every day, and changing the water. Afterwards drain off the water,
+and put the lard and marrow into a sieve to dry. Then transfer it
+to a jar, and set the jar into a pot of boiling water. When the
+mixture is melted, put it into a basin, and beat it with two
+spoonfuls of brandy. Then drain off the brandy, perfume the
+pomatum by mixing with it any scented essence that you please, and
+tie it up in gallipots.
+
+
+COSMETIC PASTE.
+
+Take a quarter of a pound of Castile soap, and cut it into small
+pieces. Then, put it into a tin or porcelain sauce-pan, with just
+water enough to moisten it well, and set it on hot coals. Let it
+simmer till it is entirely dissolved; stirring it till it becomes
+a smooth paste, and thickening it with Indian meal, (which even in
+a raw state is excellent for the hands.) Then take it from the
+fire, and when cool scent it with rose-water, or with any fragrant
+essence you please. Beat and stir it hard with a silver spoon, and
+when it is thoroughly mixed put it into little pots with covers.
+
+
+ACID SALT.
+
+This is the composition commonly, but erroneously called salt of
+lemon, and is excellent for removing ink and other stains from the
+hands, and for taking ink spots out of white clothes. Pound
+together in a marble mortar an ounce of salt of sorrel, and an
+ounce of the best cream of tartar, mixing them thoroughly. Then,
+put it in little wooden boxes or covered gallipots, and rub it on
+your hands when they are stained, washing them in cold water, and
+using the acid salt instead of soap; a very small quantity will
+immediately remove the stain. In applying it to linen or muslin
+that is spotted with ink or fruit juice, hold the stained part
+tightly stretched over a cup or bowl of boiling water. Then with
+your finger rub on the acid salt till the stain disappears. It
+must always be done before the article is washed.
+
+This mixture costs about twenty-five cents, and the above quantity
+(if kept dry) will be sufficient for a year or more.
+
+Ink stains may frequently be taken out of white clothes by rubbing
+on (before they go to the wash) some bits of cold tallow picked
+from the bottom of a mould candle; Leave the tallow sticking on in
+a lump, and when the article comes from the wash, it will
+generally be found that the spot has disappeared. This experiment
+is so easy and so generally successful that it is always worth
+trying. When it fails, it is in consequence of some peculiarity in
+the composition of the ink.
+
+
+SWEET JARS.
+
+Take a china jar, and put into it three handfuls of fresh damask
+rose-leaves; three of sweet pinks, three of wall-flowers, and
+stock gilly-flowers, and equal proportions of any other fragrant
+flowers that you can procure. Place them in layers; strewing fine
+salt thickly between each layer, and mixing with them an ounce of
+sliced orris root.
+
+You may fill another jar with equal quantities of lavender,
+knotted marjoram, rosemary, lemon thyme, balm of Gilead, lemon-peel,
+and smaller quantities of laurel leaves and mint; and some
+sliced orris root. You may mix with the herbs, (which must all be
+chopped,) cloves, cinnamon, and sliced nutmeg; strewing salt
+between the layers.
+
+Flowers, herbs, and spice may all be mixed in the same jar; adding
+always some orris root. Every thing that is put in should be
+perfectly free from damp.
+
+The jar should be kept closely covered, except when the cover is
+occasionally removed for the purpose of diffusing the scent
+through the room.
+
+
+SCENTED BAGS.
+
+Take a quarter of a pound of coriander seeds, a
+quarter of a pound of orris root, a quarter of a pound of aromatic
+calamus, a quarter of a pound of damask rose leaves, two ounces of
+lavender blossoms, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of
+cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and two drachms of
+musk-powder. Beat them all separately in a mortar, and then mix
+them well together. Make small silk or satin bags; fill each with
+a portion of the mixture, and sew them closely all round. Lay them
+among your clothes in the drawers.
+
+
+VIOLET PERFUME.
+
+Drop twelve drops of genuine oil of rhodium on a lump of loaf-sugar.
+Then pound the sugar in a marble mortar with two ounces of
+orris root powder. This will afford an excellent imitation of the
+scent of violets. If you add more oil of rhodium, it will produce
+a rose perfume. Sew up the powder in little silk bags, or keep it
+in a tight box.
+
+
+DURABLE INK.
+
+Take, when empty, one of the little bottles that has contained
+indelible ink, such as is sold in cases, and wash and rinse it
+clean. Put into it half an inch of lunar caustic; fill it up with
+good vinegar, and cork it tightly. This is the marking ink.
+
+Prepare the larger bottle that has contained the liquid used for
+the first wash, by making it quite clean. Take a large tea-spoonful
+of salt of tartar, and a lump of gum arabic the size of a
+hickory nut. Put them into the wash bottle, and fill it up with
+clear rain water, Cork both bottles tightly, and set them for two
+days in the sun. The liquids will then be fit for use.
+
+Linen cannot be marked well with durable ink unless the weather is
+clear and dry. Dip a camel's hair pencil in the large bottle that
+contains the gum liquid, and wash over with it a small space on a
+corner of the linen, about large enough to contain the name. Dry
+it in the sun, and let it alone till next day. Then take a very
+good pen, acid with the ink from the smallest bottle, write the
+name you intend, on the place that has been prepared by the first
+liquid. This also must be dried in the sun. See that the bottles
+are always well corked, and keep them in a covered box.
+
+After the linen is dried, iron it before you write on it.
+
+
+ANOTHER DURABLE INK.
+
+For the marking liquid--rub together in a small mortar five
+scruples of lunar caustic with one drachm of gum arabic, one
+scruple of sap-green and one ounce of rain water.
+
+For wetting the linen--mix together one ounce of salt of soda, two
+ounces of boiling water, and a table-spoonful of powdered gum
+arabic.
+
+
+TO KEEP PEARL-ASH.
+
+Take three ounces of pearl-ash, and put it into a clean black
+bottle with a pint and a half (not more) of soft water. The
+proportion is an ounce of pearl-ash to half a pint of water. Cork
+it very tightly, shake it, and it will be fit for use as soon as
+all the pearl-ash is dissolved. A table-spoonful of this liquid is
+equal to a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in the lump or powder.
+Keeping it ready dissolved will be found very convenient.
+
+
+ALMOND PASTE.
+
+Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet, almonds, and a quarter of a
+pound of bitter ones, and beat them in a mortar to a smooth paste
+--adding by degrees a jill of rose or orange-flower water. Then
+beat in, gradually, half a pound of clear strained honey. When the
+whole is well incorporated, put it into gallipots, pouring on the
+top of each some orange-flower or rose-water. Keep it closely
+covered. This is a celebrated cosmetic for the hands.
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
+
+
+MINCED OYSTERS.
+
+Take fifty fine large oysters, and mince them raw. Chop also four
+or five small pickled cucumbers, and a bunch of parsley. Grate
+about two tea-cupfuls of stale bread-crumbs, and beat up the yolks
+of four eggs. Mix the whole together in a thick batter, seasoning
+it with cayenne and powdered mace; and with a little salt if the
+oysters are fresh. Have ready a pound of lard, and melt in the
+frying-pan enough of it to fry the oysters well. If the lard is in
+too small a quantity they will be flat and tough. When the lard is
+boiling hot in the pan, put in about a table-spoonful at a time of
+the oyster-mixture, and fry it in the form of small fritters;
+turning them so as to brown on both sides. Serve them up hot, and
+eat them with small bread rolls.
+
+
+STEWED BLACK FISH.
+
+Flour a deep dish, and lay in the bottom a piece of butter rolled
+in flour. Then sprinkle it with a mixture of parsley, sweet
+marjoram, and green onion; all chopped fine. Take your black fish
+and rub it inside and outside with a mixture of cayenne, salt, and
+powdered cloves and mace. Place skewers across the dish, and lay
+the fish upon them. Then pour in a little wine, and sufficient
+water to stew the fish. Set the dish in a moderate oven, and let
+it cook slowly for an hour.
+
+Shad or rock fish may be dressed in the same manner.
+
+
+FRIED SMELTS.
+
+These little fish are considered extremely fine. Before they are
+cooked, cut off the heads and tails. Sprinkle the smelts with
+flour, and have ready in a frying pan over the fire plenty of
+fresh lard or butter. When it boils, put in the fish and fry them.
+
+
+BROILED SWEET-BREADS.
+
+Split open and skewer the sweet-breads; season them with pepper and
+salt, and with powdered mace. Broil them on a gridiron till
+thoroughly done. While they are broiling, prepare some melted
+butter seasoned with mace and a little white wine, or mushroom
+catchup; and have ready some toast with the crust cut off. Lay the
+toast in the bottom of a dish; place the sweet-breads upon it, and
+pour over them the drawn butter.
+
+
+PICKLED EGGS.
+
+Boil twelve eggs quite hard, and lay them in cold water; having
+peeled off the shells. Then put them whole into a stone jar, with
+a quarter of an ounce of whole mace, and the same quantity of
+cloves; a sliced nutmeg; a table-spoonful of whole pepper; a small
+bit of ginger; and a peach leaf. Fill up the jar with boiling
+vinegar; cover it closely that the eggs may cool slowly. When they
+are cold, tie up the jar; covering the cork with leather. After it
+has stood three days pour off the pickle, boil it up again, and
+return it boiling hot to the eggs and spice. They will be fit for
+use in a fortnight.
+
+
+GUMBO SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of the lean of a fresh round of beef and cut the
+meat into small pieces, avoiding carefully all the fat. Season the
+meat with a little pepper and salt, and put it on to boil with
+three quarts and a pint of water (not more.) Boil it slowly and
+skim it well. When no more scum rises, put in half a peck of
+ochras, peeled and sliced, and half a peck of tomatas cut in
+quarters. Boil it slowly till the ochras and tomatas are entirely
+dissolved, and the meat all to rags. Then strain it through a
+cullender, and send it to table with slices of dry toast. This
+soup cannot be made in less than seven or eight hours. If you dine
+at two, you must put on the meat to boil at six or seven in the
+morning. It should be as thick as a jelly.
+
+
+SHREWSBURY CAKES.
+
+Rub three quarters of a pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
+flour, and mix in half a pound of powdered sugar, and half a pound
+of currants, washed and dried. Wet it to a stiff paste with rich
+milk. Roll it out, and cut it into cakes. Lay them on buttered
+baking sheets, and put them into a moderate oven.
+
+
+RICE FLUMMERY.
+
+To two quarts of milk allow half a pound of ground rice. Take out
+one pint of the milk, and mix the rice gradually with it into a
+batter; making it quite smooth and free from lumps. Put the three
+pints of milk into a skillet, (with a bunch of peach leaves or a
+few peach-kernels.) and let it come to a boil. Then while it is
+still boiling, stir in by degrees the rice batter, taking care not
+to have it lumpy; add sugar, mace, and rose brandy to your taste;
+or you may flavour it with a small tea-spoonful of oil of lemon.
+When it has boiled sufficiently, and is quite thick, strain it,
+and put it into a mould to congeal. Make a rich boiled custard,
+(flavoured in the same manner,) and send it to table in a pitcher
+to eat with the flummery. Both should be cold. If you mould it in
+tea-cups, turn it out on a deep dish, and pour the custard round
+it.
+
+
+APPLE BUTTER WITHOUT CIDER.
+
+To ten gallons of water add six gallons of the best molasses,
+mixing them well together. Put it into a large kettle over a good
+fire; let it come to a hard boil, and skim it as long as any scum
+continues to rise. Then take out half the liquid, and put it into
+a tub. Have ready eight bushels of fine sound apples, pared, cored
+and quartered. Throw them gradually into the liquid that is still
+boiling on the fire. Let it continue to boil hard, and as it
+thickens, add by degrees the other half of the molasses and water,
+(that which has been put into the tub.) Stir it frequently to
+prevent its scorching, and to make it of equal consistence
+throughout. Boil it ten or twelve hours, continuing to stir it. At
+night take it out of the kettle, and set it in tubs to cool;
+covering it carefully. Wash out the kettle and wipe it very dry.
+
+Next morning boil the apple butter six or eight hours longer; it
+should boil eighteen hours altogether. Half an hour before you
+take it finally out, stir in a pound of mixed spice; cloves,
+allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg, all finely powdered. When entirely
+done, put up the apple butter in stone or earthen jars. It will
+keep a year or more.
+
+It can, of course, be made in a smaller quantity than that given
+in the above receipt; and also at any time in the winter; fresh
+cider not being an ingredient, as in the most usual way of making
+apple butter.
+
+
+AN APPLE POT PIE.
+
+Make a paste, allowing a pound of butter, or of chopped suet to
+two pounds and a quarter of flour. Have ready a sufficient
+quantity of fine juicy acid apples, pared, cored, and sliced. Mix
+with them brown sugar enough to sweeten them, a few cloves, and
+some slips of lemon-peel. Butter the inside of an iron pot, and
+line it with some of the paste. Then put in the apples,
+interspersing them with thin squares of paste, and add a very
+little water. Cover the whole with a thick lid of the dough, which
+must be carefully closed round the edges. Pour on water enough to
+fill the pot, and let it boil two hours. When done, serve it up on
+a large dish, and eat it with butter and sugar.
+
+
+PUDDING CATCHUP.
+
+Mix together half a pint of noyau; a pint of sherry or other white
+wine; the yellow peel of four lemons, pared thin; and half an
+ounce of mace. Put the whole into a large bottle, and let it stand
+for two or three weeks. Then strain it, and add half a pint of
+capillaire or strong sugar syrup; or of Curacoa. Bottle it, and it
+will keep two or three years. It may be used for various sweet
+dishes, but chiefly for pudding-sauce mixed with melted butter.
+
+
+CURACOA.
+
+Pound as much dried orange-peel as will make six ounces when done;
+the peel of fresh shaddock will be still better; or you may
+substitute six drachms of the oil of orange-peel. Put it into a
+quart of the strongest and clearest rectified spirit; shake it,
+let it infuse for a fortnight, and strain it. Then make a syrup by
+dissolving a pound of the best loaf-sugar in a pint of cold water,
+adding to it the beaten white of an egg, and boiling and skimming
+it till the scum ceases to rise. Mix the syrup with the strained
+liquor. Let it stand till next day, and then filter it through
+white blotting paper fastened to the bottom of a sieve. Curacoa is
+a great improvement to punch; also a table-spoonful of it in a
+tumbler of water makes a very refreshing summer drink.
+
+
+PATENT YEAST.
+
+Boil half a pound of fresh hops in four quarts of water, till the
+liquid is reduced to two quarts Strain it, and mix in sufficient
+wheat flour to make a thin batter; adding half a pint of strong
+fresh yeast, (brewer's yeast, if it can be procured.) When it is
+done fermenting, pour it into a pan, and stir in sufficient Indian
+meal to make a moderately stiff dough. Cover it, and set it in a
+warm place to rise. When it has become very light, roll it out
+into a thick sheet, and cut it into little cakes. Spread them out
+on a dish, and let them dry gradually in a cool place where there
+is no sun. Turn them five or six times a day while drying; and
+when they are quite dry, put them into paper bags, and keep them
+in a jar or box closely covered, in a place that is not in the
+least damp.
+
+When you want the yeast for use, dissolve in a little warm water
+one or more of the cakes, (in proportion to the quantity of bread
+you intend making,) and when it is quite dissolved, stir it hard,
+thicken it with a little flour, cover it, and place it near the
+fire to rise before you use it. Then mix it with the flour in the
+usual manner of preparing bread.
+
+This is a very convenient way of preserving yeast through the
+summer, or of conveying it to a distance.
+
+
+TO DRY HERBS.
+
+By drying herbs with artificial heat as quickly as possible, you
+preserve their scent and flavour much better than when they are
+dried slowly by exposing them to the sun and air; a process by
+which a large portion of their strength evaporates. All sorts of
+herbs are in the greatest perfection just before they begin to
+flower. Gather them on a dry day, and place them in an oven, which
+must not be hot enough to discolour, scorch, or burn them. When
+they are quite dry, take them out, and replace them with others.
+Pick the leaves from, the stems, (which may be thrown away,) and
+put them into bottles or jars; cork them tightly, and keep them in
+a dry place. Those that are used in cookery should be kept in a
+kitchen closet.
+
+
+PEACH KERNELS.
+
+When peaches are in season, have in a convenient place an old
+basket or something of the sort, in which all the peach stones can
+be saved; they are too useful to be thrown away. Then have them
+carefully cracked, so as to extract the kernels whole if possible.
+Spread them out on a dish for one day. Then, put them into a box
+or jar, and keep them to use as bitter almonds; for which they are
+an excellent substitute in flavouring custards, creams and cakes.
+Plum stones are worth saving in the same manner.
+
+
+LEMON-PEEL.
+
+Never throw away the rind of a lemon; Keep a wide-mouthed bottle
+half full of brandy, and put into it (cut in pieces) all the
+lemon-rind that you do not immediately want. As the white part of
+the rind is of no use, it will be best to pare off the yellow very
+thin, and put that alone into the brandy, which will thus imbibe a
+very fine lemon flavour, and may be used for many nice purposes.
+
+
+TO KEEP TOMATAS.
+
+Take fine ripe tomatas, and wipe them dry, taking care not to
+break the skin. Put them, into a stone jar with cold vinegar,
+adding a small thin muslin bag filled with mace, whole cloves, and
+whole peppers. Then cork the jar tightly with a cork that has been
+dipped in melted rosin, and put it away in a dry place. Tomatas
+pickled in this manner keep perfectly well and retain their
+colour. For this purpose use the small round button tomatas.
+
+
+
+
+ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
+
+
+FRENCH GREEN PEA SOUP.
+
+This soup is made without meat. Put into a soup-pot four quarts of
+shelled green peas, two large onions sliced, a handful of leaves
+of sweet marjoram shred from the stalks, or a handful of sweet
+basil; or a mixed handful of both--also, if you like it, a handful
+of green mint. Add four quarts of water, and boil the whole slowly
+till all the peas are entirely to pieces. Then take off the pot,
+and mash the peas well against its sides to extract from them all
+their flavour. Afterward strain off the liquid into a clean pot,
+and add to it a tea-cup full of the juice of spinach, which you
+must prepare, while the soup is boiling, by pounding some spinach
+in a mortar. This will give the soup a fine green colour. Then put
+in a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter rolled whole in
+flour; and add a pint and a half more of shelled young peas. If
+you wish the soup very thick, you may allow a quart of the
+additional peas. Season it with a very little salt and cayenne;
+put it again over the fire, and boil it till the last peas are
+quite soft, but not till they go to pieces.
+
+Have ready in a tureen two or three slices of toasted bread cut
+into small squares or dice, and pour the soup on it.
+
+This soup, if properly made, will be found excellent,
+notwithstanding the absence of meat. It is convenient for fast
+days; and in the country, where vegetables can be obtained from
+the garden, the expense will be very trifling. What is left may be
+warmed for the next day.
+
+
+GIBLET SOUP.
+
+Take three pounds of shin of beef or of neck of mutton. Cut off
+the meat and break the bones. Then put the meat with the bones
+into a soup-pot, with a tea-spoonful of salt, and three quarts of
+water. Add a bunch of sweet marjoram, one of sweet basil, and a
+quarter of an ounce of black pepper-corns, all tied in a thin
+muslin rag; a sliced onion, and six or eight turnips and carrots,
+cut small. Let the whole boil slowly for two or three hours,
+skimming it well. In the meantime, have ready two sets of goose-giblets,
+or four of duck. They must he scalded, and well washed in
+warm water. Cut off the bills and split the heads; and cut the
+necks and gizzards into mouthfuls. Having taken the meat and bones
+out of the soup, put in the giblets, with a head of celery
+chopped. Boil it slowly an hour and a half; or more, taking care
+to skim it. Make a thickening of an ounce and a half of butter,
+and a large table-spoonful of flour, mixed together with a little
+of the soup. Then stir it into the pot, adding a large table-spoonful
+ of mushroom catchup, and some small force-meat balls, or
+little dumplings. Boil the soup half an hour longer. Then send it
+to table with the giblets in the tureen.
+
+
+GUMBO.
+
+Take an equal quantity of young tender ochras, and of ripe
+tomatas, (for instance, a quarter of a peck of each.) Chop the
+ochras fine, and scald and peel the tomatas. Put them into a stew-pan
+without any water. Add a lump of butter, and a very little
+salt and pepper; and, if you choose, an onion minced fine. Let it
+stew steadily for an hour. Then strain it, and send it to table as
+soup in a tureen. It should be like a jelly, and is a favourite
+New Orleans dish. Eat dry toast with it.
+
+
+HAM OMELET.
+
+Take six ounces of cold coiled ham, and mince it very fine, adding
+a little pepper. Beat separately the whites and yolks of six eggs,
+and then mix them together add to them gradually the minced ham.
+Beat the whole very hard, and do not let it stand a moment after
+it is thoroughly mixed. Have ready some boiling lard in a frying-pan,
+and put in the omelet immediately. Fry it about ten minutes
+or a quarter of an hour. When done, put it on a hot dish, trim off
+the edges, and fold it over in a half moon. Send it to table hot,
+and covered. It is eaten at breakfast.
+
+If you wish a soft omelet, (not to fold over,) fry it a shorter
+time, and serve it in a deep dish, to be helped with a spoon.
+
+A similar omelet may be made of the lean of a cold smoked tongue.
+
+
+BATTER PUDDING.
+
+Take a quart of milk, and stir into it gradually eight table
+spoonfuls of sifted flour, carefully pressing out all the lumps
+with the back of the spoon. Beat eight eggs very light, and add
+them by degrees to the milk and flour. Then stir the whole very
+well together.
+
+Dip your pudding-cloth into boiling water, and then dredge it with
+flour. Pour in the pudding, and tie it tightly, leaving room for
+it to swell. Put it into a pot full of boiling water, and boil it
+hard for two hours. Keep it in the pot till it is time to send it
+to table. Serve it up with wine-sauce, butter and sugar, or
+molasses and cold butter.
+
+
+PEACH MANGOES.
+
+Take free-stone peaches of the largest size, (when they are full
+grown, but not quite ripe,) and lay them in salt and water for two
+days, covered with a board to keep them down. Then take them out,
+wipe them dry, cut them open, and extract the stones. Mix
+together, to your taste, minced garlic, scraped horseradish,
+bruised mustard seed, and cloves; and a little ginger-root soaked
+in water to soften, and then sliced. Fill the cavity of the
+peaches with this mixture. Then tie them round with packthread,
+and put them into a stone jar till it is two-thirds full. Strew
+among them some whole cloves, broken cinnamon, and a little
+cochineal. Season some cold vinegar, (allowing to each quart a
+jill of fresh made mustard, and a little ginger, and nutmeg,) and
+having mixed this pickle well, fill up the jar with it.
+
+
+BROILED TOMATAS.
+
+Take large ripe tomatas; wipe them, and split them in half. Broil
+them on a gridiron till brown, turning them when half done. Have
+ready in a dish some butter seasoned with a little pepper. When
+the tomatas are well broiled, put them into the dish, and press
+each a little with the back of a spoon, so that the juice may run
+into the butter and mix with it. This is to make the gravy. Send
+them to table hot.
+
+Tomatas are very good sliced, and fried in butter.
+
+
+PRESERVED TOMATAS.
+
+Take large fine tomatas, (not too ripe,) and scald them to make
+the skins come off easily. Weigh them, and to each pound allow a
+pound of the best brown sugar, and the grated peel of a large
+lemon. Put all together into a preserving kettle, and having
+boiled it slowly for three hours, (skimming it carefully,) add the
+juice of the lemons, and boil it an hour longer. Then put the
+whole into jars, and when cool cover and tie them up closely. This
+is a cheap and excellent sweetmeat; but the lemon must on no
+account be omitted. It may be improved by boiling a little ginger
+with the other ingredients.
+
+
+TOMATA HONEY.
+
+To each pound of tomatas, allow the grated peel of a lemon and six
+fresh peach-leaves. Boil them slowly till they are all to pieces;
+then squeeze and strain them through a bag. To each pint of liquid
+allow a pound of loaf-sugar, and the juice of one lemon. Boil them
+together half an hour, or till they become a thick jelly. Then put
+it into glasses, and lay double tissue paper closely over the top.
+It will be scarcely distinguishable from real honey.
+
+
+PRESERVED CUCUMBERS.
+
+Your cucumbers should be well shaped, and all of the same size.
+Spread the bottom and sides of a preserving kettle with a thick
+layer of vine leaves. Then put in the cucumbers--with a little
+alum broken small. Cover them thickly with vine leaves, and then
+with a dish. Fill up the kettle with water, and let them hang over
+a slow fire till nest morning, but do not allow the water to boil.
+Next day, take them out, cool them, and repeat the process with
+fresh vine leaves, till the cucumbers are a fine green. When cold
+drain them, cut a small piece out of the flat side, and extract
+the seeds. Wipe the cucumbers in a dry cloth, and season the
+inside with a mixture of bruised mace and grated lemon-peel. Tie
+on with a packthread the bit that was cut out.
+
+Weigh them, and to every pound of cucumbers allow a pound of loaf-sugar.
+Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, a half pint of
+water to each pound, and the beaten white of an egg to every four
+pounds. Boil and skim the sugar till quite clear, adding sliced
+ginger and lemon parings to your taste. When cool, pour it over
+the cucumbers, and let them lie in it two days, keeping them
+covered with a plate, and a weight on it to press it down. Then
+boil up the syrup again, adding one-half as much sugar, &c. as you
+had at first; and at the last the juice and grated peel of two
+lemons for every six cucumbers. The lemon must boil in the syrup
+but ten minutes. Then strain the syrup all over the cucumbers, and
+put them up in glass jars.
+
+If they are not quite clear, boil them in a third syrup.
+
+Small green melons may be preserved in this manner.
+
+
+APPLE RICE PUDDING.
+
+Wash half a pint of rice, and boil it till soft and dry. Pare,
+core, and cut up six large juicy apples, and stew them in as
+little water as possible. When they are quite, tender, take them
+out, and mash them with six table-spoonfuls of brown sugar. When
+the apples and rice are both cold, mix them together. Have ready
+five eggs beaten very light, and add them gradually to the other
+ingredients, with five or six drops of essence of lemon, and a
+grated nutmeg. Or you may substitute for the essence, the grated
+peel and the juice of one large lemon. Beat the whole very hard
+after it is all mixed; tie it tightly in a cloth, (leaving but a
+very small space for it to swell,) and stopping up the tying place
+with a lump of flour moistened to paste with water. Put it into a
+pot of boiling water, and boil it fast for half an hour. Send it
+to table hot, and eat it with sweetened cream, or with beaten
+butter and sugar.
+
+
+BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take large, fine, juicy apples, and pare and core them, leaving
+them as whole as possible. Put them into a kettle with sufficient
+water to cover them, and let them parboil a quarter of an hour.
+Then take them out, and drain them on a sieve. Prepare a paste in
+the proportion of a pound of butter to two pounds of flour, as for
+plain pies. Roll it out into a sheet, and cut it into equal
+portions according to your number of apples. Place an apple on
+each, and fill up the hole from whence the core was extracted with
+brown sugar moistened with lemon-juice, or with any sort of
+marmalade. Then cover the apple with the paste, closing it neatly.
+Place the dumplings side by side in buttered square pans, (not so
+as to touch,) and bake them of a light brown. Serve them warm or
+cool, and eat them with cream sauce.
+
+They will be found very good.
+
+
+INDIAN LOAF CAKE.
+
+Mix a tea-cup full of powdered white sugar with a quart of rich
+milk, and cut up in the milk two ounces of butter, adding a salt-spoonful
+of salt. Put this mixture into a covered pan or skillet,
+and set it on coals till it is scalding hot. Then take it off, and
+scald with it as much yellow Indian meal (previously sifted) as
+will make it of the consistence of thick boiled mush. Beat the
+whole very hard for a quarter of an hour, and then set it away to
+cool.
+
+While it is cooling, beat three eggs very light, and stir them
+gradually into the mixture when it is about as warm as new milk.
+Add a tea-cup full of good strong yeast, and beat the whole
+another quarter of an hour--for much of the goodness of this cake
+depends on its being long and well beaten. Then have ready a
+turban mould or earthen pan with a pipe in the centre, (to diffuse
+the heat through the middle of the cake.) The pan must be very
+well buttered, as Indian meal is apt to stick. Put in the mixture,
+cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise. It should be light
+in about four hours. Then bake it two hours in a moderate oven.
+When done, turn it oat with the broad surface downwards, and send
+it to table hot and whole. Cut it into slices, and eat it with
+butter.
+
+This will be found an excellent cake. If wanted for breakfast, mix
+it, and set it to rise the night before. If properly made,
+standing all night will not injure it. Like all Indian cakes, (of
+which this is one of the best,) it should be eaten warm.
+
+It will be much improved by adding to the mixture, a salt-spoon of
+pearl-ash, or sal-aratus, dissolved in a little water.
+
+
+PLAIN CIDER CAKE.
+
+Sift into a large pan a pound and a half of flour, and rub into it
+half a pound of butter. Mix in three-quarters of a pound of
+powdered white sugar and melt a small tea-spoonful of sal-aratus
+or pearl-ash in a pint of the best cider. Pour the cider into the
+other ingredients while it is foaming, and stir the whole very
+hard. Have ready a buttered square pan, put in the mixture, and
+set It immediately in a rather brisk oven. Bake it an hour or
+more, according to its thickness. This is a tea cake, and should
+be eaten fresh. Cut it into squares, split and butter them.
+
+
+TENNESSEE MUFFINS.
+
+Sift three pints of yellow Indian meal, and put one-half into a
+pan and scald it. Then set it away to get cold. Beat six: eggs,
+whites and yolks separately. The yolks must be beaten till they
+become very thick and smooth, and the whites till they are a stiff
+froth, that stands alone. When the scalded meal is cold, mix it
+into a batter with the beaten yolk of egg, the remainder of the
+meal, a salt-spoonful of salt, and, if necessary, a little water.
+The batter must be quite thick. At the last, stir in, lightly and
+slowly, the beaten white of egg. Grease your muffin rings, and set
+them in an oven of the proper heat; put in the batter immediately,
+as standing will injure it.
+
+Send them to table hot; pull them open, and eat them with butter.
+
+
+HOE CAKE.
+
+Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and sift into a
+pan a quart of wheat flour, adding a salt-spoon of salt. Make a
+hole in the middle, and mix in the white of egg so as to form a
+thick batter, and then add two table-spoonfuls of the best fresh
+yeast. Cover it, and let it stand all night. In the morning, take
+a hoe-iron (such as are made purposely for cakes) and prop it
+before the fire till, it is well heated. Then flour a tea-saucer,
+and filling it with batter, shake it about, and clap it to the
+hoe, (which must be previously greased,) and the batter will
+adhere, till it is baked. Repeat this with each cake. Keep them
+hot, and eat them with butter.
+
+
+MILK TOAST.
+
+Boil a pint of rich milk, and then take it off, and stir into it a
+quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with a small table-spoonful
+of flour. Then let it again come to a boil. Have ready
+two deep plates with half a dozen slices of toast in each. Pour
+the milk over them hot, and keep them covered till they go to
+table. Milk toast is generally eaten at breakfast.
+
+
+POTATO YEAST.
+
+Pare half a dozen middle-sized potatoes, and boil them in a quart
+of soft water, mixed with a handful of hops, till quite soft. Then
+mash the potatoes smooth, not leaving in a single lump. Mix with
+them a handful of wheat flour. Set a sieve over the pan in which
+you have the flour and mashed potatoes, and strain into them the
+hop-water in which they were boiled. Then stir the mixture very
+hard, and afterwards pass it through a cullender to clear it of
+lumps. Let it stand till it is nearly cold. Then stir in four
+table-spoonfuls of strong yeast, and let it stand to ferment. When
+the foam has sunk down in the middle, (which will not be for
+several hours,) it is done working. Then put it into a stone jug
+and cork it. Set it in a cool place.
+
+This yeast will be found extremely good for raising home-made
+bread.
+
+Yeast when it becomes sour may be made fit to use by stirring into
+it a little sal-aratus, or pearl-ash, allowing a small tea-spoonful
+to a pint of yeast. This will remove the acidity, and improve the
+bread in lightness. The pearl-ash must be previously melted in a
+little lukewarm water.
+
+
+CREAM CHEESE.
+
+The cheese so called (of which numbers are brought to Philadelphia
+market) is not in reality made of cream, but of milk warm from the
+cow, and therefore unskimmed.
+
+Having strained into a tub a bucket of new milk, turn it in the
+usual way with rennet water. When it has completely come, take a
+clean linen cloth and press it down upon the firm curd, so as to
+make the whey rise up over it. As the whey rises, dip it off with
+a saucer or a skimming dish. Then carefully put the curd (as whole
+as possible) into a cheese hoop, or mould, which for this purpose
+should be about half a foot deep, and as large round as a dinner
+plate--first spreading a clean wet cloth under the curd, and
+folding it (the cloth) over the top. Lay a large brick on it, or
+something of equivalent weight, and let the whey drain gradually
+out through the holes at the bottom of the mould. It must not be
+pressed hard, as when finished a cream cheese should be only about
+the consistence of firm butter. The curd will sink gradually in
+the mould till the whole mass will be about two or three inches
+thick. Let it remain in the mould six hours, by which time the
+whey should cease to exude from it. Otherwise, it must be left in
+somewhat longer.
+
+When you take out the cheese, rub it all over with a little lard,
+and sprinkle it slightly with fine salt. Set it in a dry dark
+place, and in four or five days it will be fit for use. When once
+cut, it should (if the weather is warm) be eaten immediately; but
+if uncut, it will keep a week in a cold place, provided it is
+turned three or four times a day. Send it to table whole on a
+large plate, and cut it when there into wedge-shaped pieces as you
+would a pie. It is usually eaten at tea or supper, and is by most
+persons considered a delicacy.
+
+
+ALMOND BREAD.
+
+Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half a pound of shelled sweet
+almonds till they are a smooth paste, adding rose-water as you
+pound them. They should be done the day before they are wanted.
+Prepare a pound of loaf-sugar finely powdered, a tea-spoonful of
+mixed spice, (mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon,) and three-quarters of a
+pound of sifted flour. Take fourteen eggs, and separate the whites
+from the yolks. Leave out seven of the whites, and beat the other
+seven to a stiff froth. Beat the yolks till very thick and smooth,
+and then beat the sugar gradually into them, adding the spice.
+Next stir in the white of egg, then the flour, and lastly the
+almonds. You may add twelve drops of essence of lemon.
+
+Put the mixture into a square tin pan, (well buttered,) or into a
+copper or tin turban-mould, and set it immediately in a brisk
+oven. Ice it when cool. It is best if eaten fresh. You may add a
+few bitter almonds to the sweet ones.
+
+
+CUSTARD CAKES.
+
+Mix together a pound of sifted flour and a quarter of a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar. Divide into four a pound of fresh butter; mix
+one-fourth of it with the flour, and make it into a dough. Then
+roll it out, and put in the three remaining divisions of the
+butter at three more rollings. Set the paste in a cool place till
+the custard is ready. For the custard, beat very light the yolk
+only of eight eggs, and then stir them gradually into a pint of
+rich cream, adding three ounces of powdered white sugar, a grated
+nutmeg, and ratafia, peach-water, or essence of lemon, to your
+taste. Put the mixture into a deep dish; set it in an iron baking
+pan or a Dutch oven half full of boiling water, and bake it a
+quarter of an hour. Then put it to cool.
+
+In the mean time roll out the paste into a thin sheet; cut it into
+little round cakes about the size of a dollar, and bake them on
+flat tins. When they are done, spread some of the cakes thickly
+with the custard, and lay others on the top of them, making them
+fit closely in the manner of lids.
+
+You may bake the paste in patty-pans like shells, and put in the
+custard after they come out of the oven. If the custard is baked
+in the paste, it will be clammy and heavy at the bottom.
+
+They are sometimes called cream cakes or cream tarts.
+
+
+HONEY GINGER CAKE.
+
+Rub together a pound of sifted flour and three-quarters of a pound
+of fresh butter. Mix in, a tea-cup of fine brown sugar, two large
+table-spoonfuls of strong ginger, and (If you like them) two
+table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Having beaten five eggs, add
+them to the mixture alternately with a pint of strained honey;
+stirring in towards the last a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash,
+that has been melted in a very little water.
+
+Having beaten or stirred the mixture long enough to make it
+perfectly light, transfer it to a square iron or block-tin pan,
+(which must be well buttered,) put it into a moderate oven, and
+bake it an hour or more, in proportion to its thickness.
+
+When cool, cut it into squares. It is best if eaten fresh, but it
+will keep very well a week.
+
+
+ROCK CAKE.
+
+Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and
+bruise them fine in a mortar, but not to a smooth paste as for
+maccaroons. Add, as you pound them, a little rose-water. Beat to a
+stiff froth the whites of four eggs, and then beat in gradually a
+pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Add a few drops of oil of lemon.
+Then mix in the pounded almonds. Flour your hands, and make the
+mixture into little cones or pointed cakes. Spread sheets of damp,
+thin, white paper on buttered sheets of tin, and put the rock
+cakes on it, rather far apart. Sprinkle each with powdered loaf-sugar.
+Bake them of a pale brown, in a brisk oven. They will be
+done in a few minutes.
+
+When cold, take them off the papers.
+
+
+FROZEN CUSTARD.
+
+Slice a vanilla bean, and boil it slowly in half a pint of
+milk/till all the strength is extracted and the milk highly
+flavoured with the vanilla. Then strain its and set it aside. Mix
+a quart of cream and a pint of milk, or, if you cannot procure
+cream, take three pints of rich milk, and put them into a skillet
+or sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals, and boil it. When it has come
+to a boil, mix a table-spoonful of flour in three table-spoonfuls
+of milk, and stir it info the boiling liquid. Afterwards add two
+eggs, (which have been beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of
+milk,) pouring them slowly into the mixture. Take care to stir it
+all the time it is boiling. Five minutes after, stir in gradually
+half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and then the decoction of
+vanilla. Having stirred it hard a few moments, take it off the
+fire, and set it to cool. When quite cold, put it into a mould and
+freeze it, as you would ice-cream, for which it frequently passes.
+
+You may flavour it with a tea-spoonful of strong oil of lemon,
+stirred in just before you take it from the fire, or with a
+quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds, blanched, pounded in
+a mortar with a little water, and then boiled in half a pint of
+milk, till the flavour Is extracted.
+
+
+CHERRY CORDIAL.
+
+Take a bushel of fine ripe cherries, either red or black, or
+mixed; stone them, put them into a clean wooden vessel, and mash
+them with a mallet or beetle. Then boil them about five minutes,
+and strain the juice. To each quart of juice allow a quart of
+water, a pound of sugar, and a quart of brandy. Boil in the water
+(before you mix it with the juice) two ounces of cloves, and four
+ounces of cinnamon; then strain out the spice. Put the mixture
+into a stone jug, or a demijohn, and cork it tightly. Bottle it in
+two or three months.
+
+
+COMMON ICE CREAM.
+
+Split into pieces a vanilla bean, and boil it in a very little
+milk till the flavour is well extracted; then strain it. Mix two
+table-spoonfuls of arrow-root powder, or the same quantity of fine
+powdered starch, with just sufficient cold milk to make it a thin
+paste; rubbing it till quite smooth. Boil together a pint of cream
+and a pint of rich milk; and while boiling stir in the preparation
+of arrow-root, and the milk in which the vanilla has been boiled.
+When it has boiled hard, take it off, stir in half a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar, and let it come to a boil again. Then strain
+it, and put it into a freezer placed in a tub that has a hole in
+the 'bottom to let-out the water; and surround the freezer on all
+sides with ice broken finely, and mixed with coarse salt. Beat the
+cream hard for half an hour. Then let it rest; occasionally taking
+off the cover, and scraping down with a long spoon the cream that
+slicks to the sides. When it is well frozen, transfer it to a
+mould; surround it with fresh salt and ice, and then freeze it
+over again.
+
+If you wish to flavour it with lemon instead of vanilla, take a
+large lump of the sugar before you powder it, and rub it on the
+outside of a large lemon till the yellow is all rubbed off upon
+the sugar. Then, when the sugar is all powdered, mix with it the
+juice.
+
+For strawberry ice cream, mix with the powdered sugar the juice of
+a quart of ripe strawberries squeezed through a linen.
+
+
+PINK CHAMPAGNE JELLY.
+
+Beat half the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and then stir it
+hard into three wine-glasses of filtered water. Put twelve ounces
+of the best double-refined loaf-sugar (powdered fine and sifted)
+into a skillet lined with porcelain. Pour on it the white of egg
+and water, and stir it till dissolved. Then add twelve grains of
+cochineal powder. Set it over a moderate fire, and boil it and
+skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Then strain it through a
+very fine sieve. Have ready an ounce and a half of isinglass that
+has been boiled in a little water till quite dissolved. Strain it,
+and while the boiled sugar is lukewarm mix it with the isinglass,
+adding a pint of pink champagne and the juice of a large lemon.
+Run it through a linen bag into a mould. When it has congealed so
+as to be quite firm, wrap a wet cloth round the outside of the
+mould, and turn out the jelly into a glass dish; or serve it
+broken up, in jelly glasses, or glass cups. Jelly may be made in a
+similar manner of Madeira, marasquin, or noyau.
+
+
+A CHARLOTTE RUSSE.
+
+Boil in half a pint of milk a split vanilla bean, till all the
+flavour is extracted. Then strain the milk, and when it is cold
+stir into it the yolks of four beaten eggs, and a quarter of a
+pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
+
+Simmer this custard five minutes over hot coals, but do not let it
+come to a boil. Then set it away to cool. Having boiled an ounce
+of the best Russian isinglass in a pint of water till it is
+entirely dissolved and the water reduced to one-half, strain it
+into the custard, stir it hard, and set it aside to get quite
+cold.
+
+Whip to a stiff froth a quart of rich cream, taking it off in
+spoonfuls as you do it, and putting it to drain on an inverted
+sieve. When the custard is quite cold, (but not yet set or
+congealing,) stir the whipt cream gradually into it.
+
+Take at circular mould of the shape of a drum, the sides being
+straight. Cut to fit it two round slices from the top and bottom
+of an almond sponge-cake; glaze them with white of egg, and lay
+one on at the bottom of the mould, reserving the other for the
+top.
+
+Having thus covered the bottom, line the sides of the mould with,
+more of the sponge-cake, cut into long squares and glazed all over
+with white of egg. They must be placed so as to stand up all
+round--each wrapping a little over the other so as to leave not
+the smallest vacancy between; and they must be cut exactly the
+height of the mould, and trimmed evenly. Then fill up with the
+custard and cream when it is just beginning to congeal; and cover
+the top with the other round slice of cake.
+
+Set the mould in a tub of pounded ice mixed with coarse salt; and
+let it remain forty minutes, or near an hour. Then turn out the
+Charlotte on a china dish. Have ready an icing, made in the usual
+manner of beaten white of egg and powdered sugar, flavoured with
+essence of lemon. Spread it smoothly over the top of the
+Charlotte, which when the icing is dry will be ready, to serve.
+They are introduced at large parties, and it is usual to have two
+or four of them.
+
+
+A CHARLOTTE POLONAISE.
+
+Boil over a slow fire a pint and a half of cream. While it is
+boiling have ready six yolks of eggs, beaten up with two table-spoonfuls
+of powdered arrow-root, or fine flour. Stir this
+gradually into the boiling cream, taking care to have it perfectly
+smooth and free from lumps. Ten minutes will suffice for the egg
+and cream to boil together. Then divide the mixture by putting it
+into two separate sauce-pans.
+
+Then mix with it, in one of the pans, six ounces of chocolate
+scraped fine, two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and a quarter of
+a pound of maccaroons, broken up. When it has come to a hard boil,
+take it off, stir it well, pour it into a bowl, and set it away to
+cool.
+
+Have ready, for the other sauce-pan of cream and egg, a dozen
+bitter almonds, and four ounces of shelled sweet almonds or
+pistachio nuts, all blanched and pounded in a mortar with rose-water
+to a smooth paste, and mixed with an ounce of citron also
+pounded. Add four ounces of powdered sugar; and to colour it
+green, two large spoonfuls of spinach juice that has been strained
+through a sieve. Stir this mixture into the other half of the
+cream, and let it come to a boil. Then put it aside to cool.
+
+Cut a large sponge-cake into slices half an inch thick. Spread one
+slice thickly with the chocolate cream, and cover another slice
+with the almond cream. Do this alternately (piling them evenly on
+a china dish) till all the ingredients are used up. You may
+arrange it in the original form of the sponge-cake before it was
+cut, or in a pyramid. Have ready the whites of the six eggs
+whipped to a stiff froth, with which have been gradually mixed six
+ounces of powdered sugar, and twelve drops of oil of lemon. With a
+spoon heap this meringue (as the French call it) all over the pile
+of cake, &c., and then sift powdered sugar over it. Set it in a
+very slow oven till the outside becomes a light brown colour.
+
+Serve it up cold, ornamented according to your taste.
+
+If you find the chocolate cream too thin, add more maccaroons. If
+the almond cream is too thin, mix in more pounded citron. If
+either of the mixtures is too thick, dilute it with more cream.
+
+This is superior to a Charlotte Russe.
+
+
+APPLE COMPOTE.
+
+Take large ripe pippin apples. Pare, core, and weigh them, and to
+each pound allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar and two lemons.
+Parboil the apples, and then set them out to cool. Pare off very
+nicely with a penknife the yellow rind of the lemons, taking care
+not to break it; and then with scissors trim the edges to an even
+width all along. Put the lemon-rind to boil in a little sauce-pan
+by itself, till it Becomes tender, and then set it to cool. Allow
+half a pint of water to each pound of sugar; and when it is
+melted, set it on the fire in the preserving kettle, put in the
+apples, and boil them slowly till they are clear and tender all
+through, but not till they break; skimming the syrup carefully.
+After you have taken out the apples, add the lemon-juice, put in
+the lemon-peel, and boil it till quite transparent. When the whole
+is cold, put the apples with the syrup into glass dishes, and
+dispose the wreaths of lemon-peel fancifully about them.
+
+
+
+
+ANIMALS
+
+FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE
+ANIMALS ARE DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS.
+
+
+Beef.
+
+[Illustration:
+1. Sirloin.        10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs.
+2. Rump.           11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs.
+3. Edge Bone.      12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs.
+4. Buttock.        13. Brisket.
+5. Mouse Buttock.  14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece
+6. Leg.            15. Clod.
+7. Thick Flank.    16. Neck, or Sticking Piece.
+8. Veiny Piece.    17. Shin.
+9. Thin Flank.     18. Cheek.]
+
+
+Veal.
+
+[Illustration:
+1. Loin, Best End.    6. Breast, Best End.
+2. Fillet.            7. Blade Bone.
+3. Loin, Chump End.   8. Fore Knuckle.
+4. Hind Knuckle.      9. Breast, Brisket End.
+5. Neck, Best End.    10. Neck, Scrag End.]
+
+
+_Mutton_
+
+[Illustration:
+1. Leg               2. Shoulder
+3. Loin, Best End.   4. Loin, Chump End.
+5. Neck, Best End.   6. Breast
+7. Neck, Scrag End.]
+
+_Note:_ A Chine is two Loins, and two Necks of the Best End.
+
+
+_Pork_
+
+[Illustration:
+1. Leg.            2. Hind Loin.
+3. Fore Loin.      4. Spare Rib.
+5. Hand.           6. Spring.]
+
+
+_Venison_
+
+[Illustration:
+1. Shoulder.
+2. Neck.
+3. Haunch.
+4. Breast.
+5. Scrag.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Acid salt
+Almond cake
+Almond custard
+Almond ice-cream
+Almond maccaroons
+Almond pudding
+Another almond pudding
+Anchovy catchup
+Anchovy sauce
+Anniseed cordial
+Apees
+Apples, baked
+Apple butter
+Apple butter, without cider
+Apple custard
+Apple dumplings
+Apple fritters
+Apple jelly
+Apple and other pies
+Apple pot-pie Apples, preserved
+Apple pudding, baked
+Apple pudding, boiled
+Apple sauce
+Apple water
+Apricots, preserved
+Arrow-root blanc-mange
+Arrow-root jelly
+Arrow-root pudding
+Artichokes, to boil
+Asparagus, to boil
+Asparagus soup
+
+Balm of Gilead oil
+Barberry jelly
+Barberries, to pickle
+Barley water
+Bath buns
+Bean soup
+Beans, (dried,) to boil
+Beans, (green or French,) to boil
+Beans, (green,) to pickle
+Beans, (Lima,) to boil, and dry
+Beans, (scarlet) to boil
+Beef, remarks on
+Beef, a la mode
+Beef, baked
+Beef bouilli
+Beef (corned or salted) to boil
+Beef cakes
+Beef, to corn
+Beef, to dry and smoke
+Beef dripping, to save
+Beef, hashed
+Beef's heart, roasted
+Beef's heart, stewed
+Beef kidney, to dress Beef, potted
+Beef, to roast
+Beef soup, fine
+Beef steaks, to broil
+Beef steaks, to fry
+Beef steak pie
+Beef steak pudding
+Beef, to stew
+Beef, (a round of,) to stew
+Beef, (a round of,) to stew another way
+Beef and tongues, to pickle
+Beef tea
+Beets, to boil
+Beets, to stew
+Beer, (molasses)
+Beer, (sassafras)
+Biscuit, (milk)
+Biscuit, (soda)
+Biscuit, (sugar)
+Biscuit, (tea)
+Bishop
+Bitters
+Black cake
+Black-fish, to stew
+Blanc-mange
+Blanc-mange, (arrow-root)
+Blanc-mange, (carrageen)
+Bottled small beer
+Bran bread
+Bread
+Bread, (rye and Indian)
+Bread cake
+Bread jelly
+Bread pudding, baked
+Bread pudding, boiled
+Bread and butter pudding
+Bread sauce
+Brocoli, to boil
+Brown soup, rich
+Buckwheat cakes
+Burnet vinegar
+Burns, remedy for
+Butter, to brown
+Butter, melted or drawn
+Butter, to make
+Butter, to preserve
+Butternuts, to pickle
+
+Cabbage, to boil
+Cabbage, (red,) to pickle
+Cale-cannon
+Calf's feet broth
+Calf's feet, to fry
+Calf's feet jelly
+Calf's head, dressed plain
+Calf's head, hashed
+Calf's head soup
+Calf's liver, fried
+Calf's liver, larded
+Cantelope, preserved
+Caper sauce
+Capillaire
+Carrots, to boil
+Carrot pudding
+Carp, to stew
+Carrageen blanc-mange
+Catfish soup
+Cauliflower, to boil
+Cauliflower, to pickle
+Cayenne pepper
+Celery, to prepare for table
+Celery sauce
+Celery vinegar
+Charlotte, (plum)
+Charlotte, (raspberry)
+Cheese, to make
+Cheese, (cottage)
+Cheese, (sage)
+Cheese, (Stilton)
+Cheesecake, (almond)
+Cheesecake, (common)
+Cherry bounce
+Cherry cordial
+Cherries, (dried)
+Cherry jam
+Cherry jelly
+Cherries, preserved
+Cherries, preserved whole
+Cherry shrub
+Chestnuts, to roast
+Chestnut pudding
+Chicken broth, and panada,
+Chickens, broiled,
+Chicken croquets and rissoles,
+Chicken curry,
+Chicken dumplings or puddings,
+Chickens, fricasseed,
+Chicken jelly,
+Chicken pie,
+Chicken salad,
+Chilblains, remedy for,
+Chili vinegar,
+Chitterlings, or calf's tripe,
+Chocolate, to make,
+Chocolate custard,
+Chowder,
+Cider cake,
+Cider, (mulled,)
+Cider vinegar,
+Cider wine,
+Cinderellas, or German puffs,
+Citrons, to preserve,
+Clam soup,
+Clam soup, (plain,)
+Clotted cream,
+Cocoa, to prepare,
+Cocoa shells, to boil,
+Cocoa-nut cakes,
+Cocoa-nut cakes, (white,)
+Cocoa-nut custard, baked,
+Cocoa-nut custard, boiled,
+Cocoa-nut jumbles,
+Cocoa-nut maccaroons,
+Cocoa-nut pudding,
+Cocoa-nut pudding, another way,
+Codfish, (fresh,) to boil,
+Codfish, (fresh,) to boil another way,
+Codfish, salt, to boil,
+Coffee, to make,
+Coffee, (French,)
+Cold cream,
+Cold slaw,
+Cold sweet sauce,
+Cologne water,
+Colouring for confectionary,
+Corn, (Indian,) to boil,
+Corn, (green,) pudding,
+Corns, remedy for,
+Cosmetic paste,
+Crab-apples, (green,) to preserve,
+Crab-apples, (red,) to preserve,
+Crabs, (cold,)
+Crabs, (hot,)
+Crabs, (soft,)
+Cranberries, to preserve,
+Cranberry sauce,
+Cream cake,
+Cream, (lemon,)
+Cream, (orange,)
+Cream, to preserve,
+Cream sauce,
+Cucumbers, to dress raw,
+Cucumbers, to fry,
+Cucumbers, to pickle,
+Cup cake,
+Curacoa,
+Curds and whey,
+Currant jelly, (black,)
+Currant jelly, (red,)
+Currant jelly, (white,)
+Currant shrub,
+Currant wine,
+Custard, (boiled,)
+Custard, (plain,)
+Custard, (rice,)
+Custard, (soft,)
+Custard pudding,
+
+Dough nuts,
+Ducks, to hash,
+Ducks, to stew,
+Ducks, to roast,
+Dumplings, (apple,)
+Dumplings, (light,)
+Dumplings, (plain suet,)
+Dumplings, (fine suet,)
+Dumplings, (Indian,)
+Durable ink,
+Durable ink, another way,
+
+Eastern pudding,
+Eggs, to boil for breakfast,
+Eggs, to fricassee,
+Eggs, to keep,
+Eggs with ham,
+Egg nogg,
+Eggs, to pack,
+Eggs, to pickle,
+Egg plant, to stew,
+Egg plant, to fry,
+Egg plant, stuffed,
+Eggs, raw,
+Egg sauce,
+Election cake,
+Elderberry wine,
+Elder-flower wine,
+Essence of lemon peel,
+Essence of peppermint,
+Eve's pudding,
+
+Family soup,
+Federal cakes,
+Flannel cakes,
+Flax-seed lemonade,
+Floating island,
+Flour, to brown,
+Flour hasty-pudding,
+Force-meat balls,
+Fowls, to boil,
+Fowls, to roast,
+Fox-grape shrub,
+Friar's chicken,
+Fritters, (apple,)
+Fritters, (plain,)
+Frosted fruit,
+Fruit queen-cakes,
+
+General sauce,
+Gherkins, to pickle,
+Ginger, to preserve,
+Ginger beer,
+Ginger plum-cake,
+Gingerbread, (common,)
+Gingerbread nuts,
+Gingerbread, (Franklin,)
+Gingerbread, (white,)
+Gooseberries, bottled,
+Gooseberry custard,
+Gooseberry fool,
+Gooseberries, to preserve,
+Gooseberries, to stew,
+Gooseberry wine,
+Goose pie,
+Goose pie for Christmas,
+Goose, to roast,
+Grapes, in brandy,
+Grapes, (wild,) to keep,
+Grape jelly,
+Gravy, (drawn or made,)
+Gravy soup, (clear,)
+Ground nuts, to roast,
+Ground rice milk,
+Grouse, to roast,
+Gruel, to make,
+Gruel, oatmeal,
+
+Halibut, to boil,
+Halibut cutlets,
+Ham, to boil,
+Ham, to broil,
+Ham or bacon, directions for curing,
+Ham, (to glaze,)
+Ham dumplings,
+Ham pie,
+Ham sandwiches,
+Ham, to roast,
+Ham, (Westphalia,) to imitate,
+Hare or rabbit soup,
+Hare, to roast,
+Harvey's sauce,
+Herbs, to dry,
+Hominy, to boil,
+Honey cake,
+Horseradish vinegar,
+Huckleberry cake,
+Hungary water,
+
+Ice cream, (almond,)
+Ice cream, (lemon,)
+Ice cream, (pine apple,)
+Ice cream, (raspberry,)
+Ice cream, (strawberry,)
+Ice cream, (vanilla,)
+Ice lemonade,
+Ice orangeade,
+Icing for cakes,
+Indian batter cakes,
+Indian corn, to boil,
+Indian dumplings,
+Indian flappers,
+Indian muffins,
+Indian mush,
+Indian mush cakes,
+Indian pound cake,
+Indian pudding, baked,
+Indian pudding, boiled,
+Indian pudding without eggs,
+Italian Cream,
+
+Jaune-mange,
+Jelly cake,
+Johnny cake,
+Julienne (a la) soup,
+
+Kid, to roast,
+Kitchen, pepper,
+Kitchiner's fish-sauce,
+Kisses,
+
+Lady cake,
+Lamb, to roast,
+Larding,
+Lavender, compound,
+Lavender water,
+Laudanum, antidote to,
+Lead water,
+Lemon brandy,
+Lemon catchup,
+Lemon cordial,
+Lemon cream,
+Lemon custard,
+Lemon juice, to keep,
+Lemon peel, to keep,
+Lemon peel, (essence of,)
+Lemons, preserved,
+Lemon pudding,
+Lemon syrup,
+Lemonade,
+Lettuce or salad, to dress,
+Lip salve,
+Liver dumplings,
+Liver puddings,
+Lobster, to boil,
+Lobster catchup,
+Lobster, to fricassee,
+Lobster, to dress cold,
+Lobster, pickled,
+Lobster, potted,
+Lobster pie,
+Lobster sauce,
+Lobster soup,
+Lobster, to stew,
+
+Maccaroni, to dress,
+Maccaroni soup,
+Maccaroni soup, (rich,)
+Maccaroons, (almond,)
+Maccaroons, (cocoa-nut,)
+Maccaroon custard,
+Mackerel, to boil,
+Mackerel, to broil,
+Mangoes, to pickle,
+Marbled veal,
+Marlborough pudding,
+Marmalade cake,
+Mead,
+Meg
+Merrilies' soup,
+Milk biscuit
+Milk punch
+Milk soup
+Mince pies
+Mince meat
+Mince meat for Lent
+Mince meat, (very plain)
+Minced oysters
+Mint sauce
+Molasses beer
+Molasses candy
+Molasses posset
+Moravian sugar-cake
+Morella cherries, to pickle
+Mock oysters of corn
+Mock turtle, or calf's head soup
+Muffins, (common)
+Muffins, (Indian)
+Muffins, (water)
+Mulled cider
+Mulled wine
+Mulligatawny soup
+Mush, (Indian,) to make
+Mush cakes
+Mushrooms, to broil
+Mushroom catchup
+Mushrooms, to pickle brown
+Mushrooms, to pickle white
+Mushroom sauce
+Mushrooms, to stew
+Musquito bites, remedy for
+Mustard, (common)
+Mustard,(French)
+Mustard, (keeping)
+Mutton, to boil
+Mutton broth
+Mutton broth made quickly
+Mutton, (casserole of)
+Mutton chops, broiled
+Mutton chops, stewed
+Mutton cutlets, a la
+Maintenon
+Mutton harico
+Mutton, hashed
+Mutton, (leg of,) stewed
+Mutton, to roast
+Mutton soup, (including cabbage and noodle soups)
+
+Nasturtians, to pickle
+Nasturtian sauce
+New York cookies
+Nougat
+Noyau
+
+Oatmeal gruel
+Ochra soup
+Oil of flowers
+Omelet, (plain)
+Omelet souffle
+Onions, to boil
+Onions, to fry
+Onions, to pickle
+Onions, pickled white
+Onions, to roast
+Onion sauce, (brown)
+Onion sauce, (white)
+Onion soup
+Orangeade
+Orange cream
+Orange jelly
+Orange marmalade
+Orange pudding
+Orgeat
+Ortelans, to roast
+Oyster catchup
+Oysters, fried
+Oyster fritters
+Oysters, minced
+Oysters, pickled
+Oysters, pickled for keeping
+Oyster pie
+Oysters, scalloped
+Oysters, stewed
+Oyster soup
+Oyster soup, (plain,)
+Ox-tail soup,
+Oyster Sauce,
+
+Panada, (chicken,)
+Pancakes, (plain,)
+Pancakes, (sweetmeat,)
+Parsley, to pickle,
+Parsley sauce,
+Parsnips, to boil,
+Partridges, to roast,
+Partridges, to roast another way,
+Paste, (dripping,)
+Paste, (lard,)
+Paste, (the best plain,)
+Paste, (potato,)
+Paste, (fine puff.)
+Paste, (suet,)
+Paste, (sweet,)
+Peaches, (in brandy,)
+Peach cordial,
+Peaches, (dried,)
+Peaches for common use,
+Peach jelly,
+Peach kernels,
+Peach marmalade,
+Peaches, to pickle,
+Peaches, to preserve,
+Peach sauce,
+Peas, (green,) to boil,
+Peas soup,
+Peas soup, (green,)
+Pears, to bake,
+Pears, to preserve,
+Peppers, (green,) to pickle,
+Peppers, (green,) to preserve,
+Pepper pot,
+Perch, to fry,
+Pheasants, to roast,
+Pheasants, to roast another way,
+Pies,
+Pie crust, (common,)
+Pies, (standing,)
+Pies, (apple and other,)
+Pickle, (East India,)
+Pig, to roast,
+Pig's feet and ears, soused,
+Pigeon or chicken dumplings,
+Pigeon pie,
+Pigeons, to roast,
+Pilau,
+Pine-apple ice cream,
+Pine-apples, (fresh,) to prepare for eating,
+Pine-apples, to preserve,
+Plovers, to roast,
+Plum charlotte,
+Plums for common use,
+Plums, to preserve,
+Plums,(egg,) to preserve whole,
+Plums, (green gage,) to preserve,
+Plum pudding, baked,
+Plum pudding, boiled,
+Poke, to boil,
+Pomatum, (soft,)
+Pork and beans,
+Pork cheese,
+Pork, (corned,) to boil,
+Pork, (pickled,) to boil with peas pudding,
+Pork cutlets,
+Pork, (leg of,) to roast,
+Pork; (loin of,) to roast,
+Pork, (middling piece,) to roast,
+Pork pie,
+Pork steaks,
+Pork, to stew,
+Port wine jelly,
+Pot pie,
+Pot pie, (apple,)
+Potatoes, to boil,
+Potatoes, to fry,
+Potatoes, roasted
+Potato pudding
+Potato snow
+Pound cake
+Prawns, to boil
+Prune pudding
+Pudding catchup
+Pumpkin, to boil
+Pumpkin chips
+Pumpkin pudding
+Pumpkin yeast
+Punch
+Punch, (frozen,)
+Punch, (milk,)
+Punch, (fine milk,)
+Punch, (regent's,)
+Punch, (Roman,)
+Pyramid of tarts,
+Pink sauce,
+
+Quails, to roast
+Queen cake
+Quin's sauce for fish
+Quince cheese
+Quince cordial
+Quince jelly
+Quince marmalade
+Quinces, preserved
+Quinces, to preserve whole
+Quince pudding
+
+Rabbits, fricasseed
+Rabbits, to fry
+Rabbits, to stew
+Radishes, to prepare for table
+Radish pods, to pickle
+Raspberry charlotte
+Raspberry cordial
+Raspberry ice-cream
+Raspberry jam
+Raspberries, to preserve
+Raspberry vinegar
+Raspberry wine
+Ratafia
+Raw egg
+Reed birds, to roast
+Rennet whey
+Rhubarb tarts
+Rice, to boil
+Rice, to boil for curry Rice custard
+Rice cakes
+Rice dumplings
+Rice flummery
+Rice jelly
+Rice pudding, boiled
+Rice pudding, (farmer's,)
+Rice pudding, (ground,)
+Rice pudding, (plain,)
+Rice pudding, (plum,)
+Rice milk
+Rice milk, (ground,)
+Ringworms, remedy for,
+Rock-fish, to boil,
+Rock-fish, to pickle,
+Rolls, (common,)
+Rolls, (French,)
+Rose brandy
+Rhubarb jam
+Rose cordial
+Rose vinegar
+Rusk
+Russian or Swedish turnip, to boil,
+Rye and Indian bread
+
+Sago
+Sago pudding
+Salad, to dress,
+Salmon, (fresh,) to bake whole,
+Salmon, (fresh,) to bake in slices,
+Salmon, (fresh,) to boil,
+Salmon, (pickled,)
+Salmon, (smoked,)
+Salmon steaks
+Sally Lunn cake,
+Salsify, to dress,
+Sandwiches, (ham,)
+Sangaree,
+Sassafras beer,
+Sausage meat, (common,)
+Sausages, (fine,)
+Sausages, (Bologna,)
+Savoy biscuits,
+Scented bags,
+Scotch cake,
+Scotch queen-cake,
+Scotch sauce for fish,
+Sea bass or black-fish, boiled,
+Sea bass, fried,
+Sea catchup,
+Sea kale, to boil,
+Secrets,
+Seidlitz powders,
+Shad, baked,
+Shad, to fry,
+Shalot vinegar,
+Shells,
+Short cakes,
+Shrub, (cherry,)
+Shrub, (currant,)
+Shrub, (fox-grape,)
+Smelts, to fry,
+Snowball custard,
+Snipes, to roast,
+Soda biscuit,
+Soda water,
+Spanish buns,
+Spinach, to boil,
+Spinach and eggs,
+Sponge cake,
+Spruce beer,
+Squashes or cymlings, to boil,
+Squash, (winter,) to boil,
+Squash, pudding,
+Strawberries, preserved,
+Strawberry ice-cream,
+Strawberry cordial,
+Sturgeon cutlets,
+Suet pudding,
+Sugar biscuit,
+Sugar syrup, clarified,
+Sweet basil vinegar,
+Sweet jars,
+Sweet sauce, (cold,)
+Sweet potatoes, boiled,
+Sweet potatoes, fried,
+Sweet potato pudding,
+Sweetbreads, to broil,
+Sweetbreads, larded,
+Sweetbreads, to roast,
+Syllabub or whipt cream,
+Syllabub, (country,)
+Shrewsbury cake,
+
+Tamarind water,
+Tapioca,
+Tarragon vinegar,
+Tea, to make,
+Terrapins,
+Thieves' vinegar,
+Toast and water,
+Tomatas, to bake,
+Tomata catchup,
+Tomatas, to keep,
+Tomatas, to pickle,
+Tomatas, to stew,
+Tomata soy,
+Tongue, (salted or pickled,) to boil,
+Tongue, (smoked,) to boil,
+Trifle,
+Tripe, to boil,
+Tripe, to fry,
+Tripe and oysters,
+Trout, to boil,
+Trout, to fry,
+Turkey, to boil,
+Turkey, to roast,
+Turkish sherbet,
+Turnips, to boil,
+
+Veal, (breast of,) to stew,
+Veal,(breast of,) to roast,
+Veal cutlets,
+Veal, (fillet of,) to stew,
+Veal, (fillet of,) to roast,
+Veal, (knuckle of,) to stew,
+Veal, (loin of,) to roast,
+Veal, (minced,)
+Veal patties,
+Veal pie,
+Veal soup
+Veal soup, (rich,)
+Veal steaks
+Veal or chicken tea,
+Vegetable soup,
+Venison hams,
+Venison, (cold,) to hash,
+Venison pasty,
+Venison, to roast,
+Venison soup,
+Venison steaks,
+Vermicelli sour,
+Vinegar (cider,)
+Vinegar, (sugar,)
+Vinegar, (white,)
+Violet perfume,
+
+Wafer cakes,
+Waffles,
+Walnut catchup,
+Walnuts, pickled black,
+Walnuts, pickled green,
+Walnuts, pickled white,
+Warm slaw,
+Warts, remedy for,
+Washington cake,
+Watermelon rind, to preserve,
+Water souchy,
+Welsh rabbit,
+White soup, (rich,)
+Wine jelly,
+Wine sauce,
+Wine whey,
+Wonders or crullers,
+Woodcocks, to roast,
+
+Yam pudding,
+Yeast, (bakers',)
+Yeast, (bran,)
+Yeast, (common,)
+Yeast, (patent,)
+Yeast, (pumpkin,)
+
+
+
+ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS
+
+Almond bread,
+Almond paste,
+Apple dumplings, (baked,)
+Apple compote,
+Apple rice pudding,
+
+Batter pudding
+Blood, to stop,
+
+Charlotte Polonaise,
+Charlotte Russe,
+Cherry cordial,
+Cider cake, (plain,)
+Cream cheese,
+Cucumbers, (preserved,)
+Custard cakes,
+
+Frozen custard,
+
+Giblet soup,
+Green pea soup, (French,)
+Green ointment,
+Gumbo,
+Gumbo soup,
+
+Ham omelet,
+Hoe cake,
+Honey ginger cake,
+
+Ice cream, (common,)
+Indian loaf cake,
+
+Lemon drops,
+
+Milk toast,
+
+Peach leather,
+Peach mangoes,
+Pearlash, to keep,
+Peppermint drop's,
+Pink champagne jelly,
+Potato Yeast,
+
+Rock cake,
+
+Tennesee muffins,
+Tomatas, (broiled,)
+Tomata honey
+Tomatas, (preserved,)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Directions for Cookery, in its Various
+Branches, by Eliza Leslie
+
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