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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches, by Eliza Leslie
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+Title: Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches
+
+Author: Eliza Leslie
+
+Release Date: October 10, 2003 [EBook #9624]
+[Most recently updated: April 19, 2020]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State
+University Libraries; Steve Schulze, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches
+
+by Eliza Leslie
+
+TENTH EDITION, WITH IMPROVEMENTS AND SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.
+
+1840.
+
+
+GENERAL CONTENTS.
+
+ PREFACE
+ INTRODUCTORY HINTS
+
+ Soups; including those of Fish
+ Fish; various ways of dressing
+ Shell Fish; Oysters, Lobsters, Crabs, Etc.
+ Beef; including pickling and smoking it
+ Veal
+ Mutton and Lamb
+ Pork; including Bacon, Sausages, Etc.
+ Venison; Hares, Rabbits, Etc.
+ Poultry and Game
+ Gravy and Sauces
+ Store Fish Sauces; Catchups, Etc.
+ Flavoured Vinegars;
+ Mustards & Pepper
+ Vegetables; including Indian Corn, Tomatas, Mushrooms, Etc.
+ Eggs; usual ways of dressing, including Omelets
+ Pickling
+ Sweetmeats; including Preserves and Jellies
+ Pastry and Puddings; also Pancakes,
+Dumplings, Custards, Etc.,
+ Syllabubs; also Ice Creams and Blanc-mange
+ Cakes; including various sweet Cakes and Gingerbread
+ Warm Cakes for Breakfast and Tea; also, Bread, Yeast, Butter,
+Cheese, Tea, Coffee, Etc.
+ Domestic Liquors; including home-made Beer, Wines, Shrub,
+Cordials, Etc.
+ Preparations for the Sick
+ Perfumery
+ Miscellaneous Receipts
+ Additional Receipts
+
+ Animals used as Butchers’ Meat
+ Index
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The success of her little book entitled “Seventy-five Receipts in
+Cakes, Pastry, and Sweetmeats.” has encouraged the author to attempt a
+larger and more miscellaneous work on the subject of cookery,
+comprising as far as practicable whatever is most useful in its various
+departments; and particularly adapted to the domestic economy of her
+own country. Designing it as a manual of American housewifery, she has
+avoided the insertion of any dishes whose ingredients cannot be
+procured on our side of the Atlantic, and which require for their
+preparation utensils that are rarely found except in Europe. Also, she
+has omitted every thing which may not, by the generality of tastes, be
+considered good of its kind, and well worth the trouble and cost of
+preparing.
+
+The author has spared no pains in collecting and arranging, perhaps the
+greatest number of practical and original receipts that have ever
+appeared in a similar work; flattering herself that she has rendered
+them so explicit as to be easily understood, and followed, even by
+inexperienced cooks. The directions are given as minutely as if each
+receipt was “to stand alone by itself,” all references to others being
+avoided; except in some few instances to the one immediately preceding;
+it being a just cause of complaint that in some of the late cookery
+books, the reader, before finishing the article, is desired to search
+out pages and numbers in remote parts of the volume.
+
+In the hope that her system of cookery may be consulted with equal
+advantage by families in town and in country, by those whose condition
+makes it expedient to practise economy, and by others whose
+circumstances authorize a liberal expenditure, the author sends it to
+take its chance among the multitude of similar publications, satisfied
+that it will meet with as much success as it may be found to
+deserve,—more she has no right to expect.
+
+_Philadelphia, April 15th, 1837_.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY HINTS.
+
+WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
+
+
+We recommend to all families that they should keep in the house: a pair
+of scales, (one of the scales deep enough to hold flour, sugar, &c.,
+conveniently,) and a set of tin measures: as accuracy in proportioning
+the ingredients is indispensable to success in cookery. It is best to
+have the scales permanently fixed to a small beam projecting (for
+instance) from one of the shelves of the store-room. This will preclude
+the frequent inconvenience of their getting twisted, unlinked, and
+otherwise out of order; a common consequence of putting them in and out
+of their box, and carrying them from place to place. The weights (of
+which there should be a set from two pounds to a quarter of an ounce)
+ought carefully to be kept in the box, that none of them may be lost or
+mislaid.
+
+A set of tin measures (with small spouts or lips) from a gallon down to
+half a jill, will be found very convenient in every kitchen; though
+common pitchers, bowls, glasses, &c. may be substituted. It is also
+well to have a set of wooden measures from a bushel to a quarter of a
+peck.
+
+Let it be remembered, that of liquid measure—
+
+Two jills are half a pint.
+Two pints—one quart.
+Four quarts—one gallon.
+
+Of dry measure—
+
+Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck.
+One gallon—half a peck.
+Two gallons—one peck.
+Four gallons—half a bushel.
+Eight gallons—one bushel.
+
+About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a common sized
+tea-spoon.
+
+Four table-spoonfuls or half a jill, will fill a common wine glass.
+
+Four wine glasses will fill a half-pint or common tumbler, or a large
+coffee-cup.
+
+A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half.
+
+Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and pastry, a
+quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound avoirdupois,
+(sixteen ounces.) Avoirdupois is the weight designated throughout this
+book.
+
+Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they are broken.
+
+A table-spoonful of salt is generally about one ounce.
+
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY, IN ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES.
+
+
+
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Always use soft water for making soup, and be careful to proportion the
+quantity of water to that of the meat. Somewhat less than a quart of
+water to a pound of meat, is a good rule for common soups. Rich soups,
+intended for company, may have a still smaller allowance of water.
+
+Soup should always be made entirely of fresh meat that has not been
+previously cooked. An exception to this rule may sometimes be made in
+favour of the remains of a piece of roast beef that has been _very
+much_ under-done in roasting. This may be _added_ to a good piece of
+raw meat. Cold ham, also, may be occasionally put into white soups.
+
+Soup made of cold meat has always a vapid, disagreeable taste, very
+perceptible through all the seasoning, and which nothing indeed can
+disguise. Also, it will be of a bad, dingy colour. The juices of the
+meat having been exhausted by the first cooking, the undue proportion
+of watery liquid renders it, for soup, indigestible and unwholesome, as
+well as unpalatable. As there is little or no nutriment to be derived
+from soup made with cold meat, it is better to refrain from using it
+for this purpose, and to devote the leavings of the table to some other
+object. No person accustomed to really good soup, made from fresh meat,
+can ever be deceived in the taste, even when flavoured with wine and
+spices. It is not true that French cooks have the art of producing
+_excellent_ soups from cold scraps. There is much _bad_ soup to be
+found in France, at inferior houses; but _good_ French cooks are not,
+as is generally supposed, really in the practice of concocting any
+dishes out of the refuse of the table. And we repeat, that cold meat,
+even when perfectly good, and used in a large quantity, has not
+sufficient substance to flavour soup, or to render it wholesome.
+
+Soup, however, that has been originally made of raw meat entirely, is
+frequently better the second day than the first; provided that it is
+re-boiled only for a very short time, and that no additional water is
+added to it.
+
+Unless it has been allowed to boil too hard, so as to exhaust the
+water, the soup-pot will not require replenishing. When it is found
+absolutely necessary to do so, the additional water must be boiling hot
+when poured in; if lukewarm or cold, it will entirely spoil the soup.
+
+Every particle of fat should be carefully skimmed from the surface.
+Greasy soup is disgusting and unwholesome. The lean of meat is much
+better for soup than the fat.
+
+Long and slow boiling is necessary to extract the strength from the
+meat. If boiled fast over a large fire, the meat becomes hard and
+tough, and will not give out its juices.
+
+Potatoes, if boiled in the soup, are thought by some to render it
+unwholesome, from the opinion that the water in which potatoes have
+been cooked is almost a poison. As potatoes are a part of every dinner,
+it is very easy to take a few out of the pot in which they have been
+boiled by themselves, and to cut them up and add them to the soup just
+before it goes to table.
+
+The cook should season the soup but very slightly with salt and pepper.
+If she puts in too much, it may spoil it for the taste of most of those
+that are to eat it; but if too little, it is easy to add more to your
+own plate.
+
+The practice of thickening soup by stirring flour into it is not a good
+one, as it spoils both the appearance and the taste. If made with a
+sufficient quantity of good fresh meat, and not too much water, and if
+boiled long and slowly, it will have substance enough without flour.
+
+FAMILY SOUP.
+
+Take a shin or leg of beef that has been newly killed; the fore leg is
+best, as there is the most meat on it. Have it cut into three pieces,
+and wash it well. To each pound allow somewhat less than a quart of
+water; for instance, to ten pounds of leg of beef, nine quarts of water
+is a good proportion. Put it into a large pot, and add half a
+table-spoonful of salt. Hang it over a good fire, as early as six
+o’clock in the morning, if you dine at two. When it has come to a hard
+boil, and the scum has risen, (which it will do as soon as it has
+boiled,) skim it well. Do not remove the lid more frequently than is
+absolutely necessary, as uncovering the pot causes the flavour to
+evaporate. Then set it on hot coals in the corner, and keep it
+simmering steadily, adding fresh coals so as to continue a regular
+heat.
+
+About nine o’clock, put in four carrots, one parsnip, and a large onion
+cut into slices, and four small turnips, and eight tomatas, also cut
+up; add a head of celery cut small. Put in a very small head of
+cabbage, cut into little pieces. If you have any objection to cabbage,
+substitute a larger proportion of the other vegetables. Put in also a
+bunch of sweet marjoram, tied up in a thin muslin rag to prevent its
+floating on the top.
+
+Let the soup simmer unceasingly till two o’clock, skimming it well:
+then take it up, and put it into a tureen. If your dinner hour is
+later, you may of course begin the soup later; but it will require at
+least eight hours’ cooking; remembering to put in the vegetables three
+hours after the meat.
+
+If you wish to send the meat to table, take the best part of it out of
+the soup, about two hours before dinner. Have ready another pot with a
+dozen tomatas and a few cloves. Moisten them with a little of the soup,
+just sufficient to keep them from burning. When the tomatas have stewed
+down soft, put the meat upon them, and let it brown till dinner time
+over a few coals, keeping the pot closely covered; then send it to
+table on a dish by itself. Let the remainder of the meat be left in the
+large pot till you send up the soup, as by that time it will be boiled
+to rags and have transferred all its flavour to the liquid.
+
+This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of a few dozen
+ochras cut into very thin slices, and put in with the other vegetables.
+You may put Lima beans into it, green peas, or indeed any vegetables
+you like: or you may thicken it with ochras and tomatas only.
+
+Next day, take what is left of the soup, put it into a pot, and simmer
+it over hot coals for half an hour: a longer time will weaken the
+taste. If it has been well made and kept in a cool place, it will be
+found better the second day than the first.
+
+If your family is very small, and the leg of beef large, and the season
+winter, it may furnish soup for four successive days. Cut the beef in
+half; make soup of the first half, in the manner above directed, and
+have the remainder warmed next day; then on the third day make fresh
+soup of the second half.
+
+We have been minute in these directions; for if strictly followed, the
+soup, though plain, will be found excellent.
+
+If you do not intend to serve up the meat separately, break to pieces
+all the bones with a mallet or kitchen cleaver. This, by causing them
+to give out their marrow, &c., will greatly enrich the liquid. Do this,
+of course, when you first begin the soup.
+
+FINE BEEF SOUP.
+
+Begin this soup the day before it is wanted. Take a good piece of fresh
+beef that has been newly killed: any substantial part will do that has
+not too much fat about it: a fore leg is very good for this purpose.
+Wash it well. Cut off all the meat, and break up the bones. Put the
+meat and the bones into a large pot, very early in the day, so as to
+allow eight or nine hours for its boiling. Proportion the water to the
+quantity of meat—about a pint and a half to each pound. Sprinkle the
+meat with a small quantity of pepper and salt. Pour on the water, hang
+it over a moderate fire, and boil it slowly; carefully skimming off all
+the fat that rises to the top, and keeping it closely covered, except
+when you raise the lid to skim it. Do not, on any account, put in
+additional water to this soup while it is boiling; and take care that
+the boiling goes steadily on, as, if it stops, the soup will be much
+injured. But if the fire is too great, and the soup boils too fast, the
+meat will become hard and tough, and will not give out its juices.
+
+After the meat is reduced to rags, and the soup sufficiently boiled,
+remove the pot from the fire, and let it stand in the corner for a
+quarter of an hour to settle. Then take it up, strain it into a large
+earthen pan, cover it, and set it away in a cool dry place till next
+day. Straining it makes it clear and bright, and frees it from the
+shreds of meat and bone. If you find that it jellies in the pan, (which
+it will if properly made,) do not disturb it till you are ready to put
+it into the pot for the second boiling, as breaking the jelly may
+prevent it from keeping well.
+
+On the following morning, boil separately, carrots, turnips, onions,
+celery, and whatever other vegetables you intend to thicken the soup
+with. Tomatas will greatly improve it. Prepare them by taking off the
+skin, cutting them into small pieces, and stewing them in their own
+juice till they are entirely dissolved. Put on the carrots before any
+of the other vegetables, as they require the longest time to boil. Or
+you may slice and put into the soup a portion of the vegetables you are
+boiling for dinner; but they must be nearly done before you put them
+in, as the second boiling of the soup should not exceed half an hour,
+or indeed, just sufficient time to heat it thoroughly.
+
+Scrape off carefully from the cake of jellied soup whatever fat or
+sediment may still be remaining on it; divide the jelly into pieces,
+and about half an hour before it is to go to table, put it into a pot,
+add the various vegetables, (having first sliced them,) in sufficient
+quantities to make the soup very thick; hang it over the fire and let
+it boil slowly, or simmer steadily till dinner time. Boiling it much on
+the second day will destroy the flavour, and render it flat and
+insipid. For this reason, in making fine, clear beef soup, the
+vegetables are to be cooked separately. They need not be put in the
+first day, as the soup is to be strained; and on the second day, if put
+in raw, the length of time required to cook them would spoil the soup
+by doing it too much. We repeat, that when soup has been sufficiently
+boiled on the first day, and all the juices and flavour of the meat
+thoroughly extracted, half an hour is the utmost it requires on the
+second.
+
+Carefully avoid seasoning it too highly. Soup, otherwise excellent, is
+frequently spoiled by too much pepper and salt. These condiments can be
+added at table, according to the taste of those that are eating it; but
+if too large a proportion of them is put in by the cook, there is then
+no remedy, and the soup may by some be found uneatable.
+
+Many persons prefer boiling all the vegetables in the soup on the first
+day, thinking that they improve its flavour. This may be done in common
+soup that is not to be strained, but is inadmissible if you wish it to
+be very bright and clear. Also, unless you have a garden and a
+profusion of vegetables of your own, it is somewhat extravagant, as
+when strained out they are of no further use, and are therefore wasted.
+
+MUTTON SOUP.
+
+Cut off the shoulder part of a fore quarter of mutton, and having cut
+all the meat from the bone, put it into a soup pot with two quarts of
+water. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then slacken the fire and
+simmer the meat for an hour and a half. Then take the remainder of the
+mutton, and put it whole into the soup-pot with sufficient boiling
+water to cover it well, and salt it to your taste. Skim it the moment
+the fresh piece of meat begins to boil, and about every quarter of an
+hour afterwards. It should boil slowly five hours. Prepare half a dozen
+turnips, four carrots, and three onions, (all cut up, but not small,)
+and put them in about an hour and a half before dinner. [Footnote: The
+carrots should be put in early, as they require a long time to boil; if
+full grown, at least three hours.] You may also put in some small
+dumplings. Add some chopped parsley.
+
+Cut the meat off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table in
+the tureen with the soup. The other half of the mutton should be served
+on a separate dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid round it. Many
+persons are fond of mutton that has been boiled in soup.
+
+You may thicken this soup with rice or barley that has first been
+soaked in cold water; or with green peas; or with young corn, cut down
+from the cob; or with tomatas scalded, peeled, and cut into pieces.
+
+_Cabbage Soup_ may be made in the same manner, of neck of mutton. Omit
+all the other vegetables, and put in a large head of white cabbage,
+stripped of the outside leaves, and cut small.
+
+_Noodle Soup_ can be made in this manner also. Noodles are a mixture of
+flour and beaten egg, made into a stiff paste, kneaded, rolled out very
+thin, and cut into long narrow slips, not thicker than straws, and then
+dried three or four hours in the sun, on tin or pewter plates. They
+must be put in the soup shortly before dinner, as, if boiled too long
+they will go to pieces.
+
+With the mutton that is taken from the soup you may send to table some
+suet dumplings, boiled in another pot, and served on a separate dish.
+Make them in the proportion of half a pound of beef suet to a pound and
+a quarter of flour. Chop the suet as fine as possible, rub it into the
+flour, and mix it into a dough with a little cold water. Roll it out
+thick, and cut it into dumplings about as large as the top of a
+tumbler, and boil them an hour.
+
+VEAL SOUP.
+
+The knuckle or leg of veal is the best for soup. Wash it and break up
+the bones. Put it into a pot with a pound of ham or bacon cut into
+pieces, and water enough to cover the meat. A set of calf’s feet, cut
+in half, will greatly improve it. After it has stewed slowly, till all
+the meat drops to pieces, strain it, return it to the pot, and put in a
+head of celery cut small, three onions, a bunch of sweet marjoram, a
+carrot and a turnip cut into pieces, and two dozen black pepper-corns,
+with salt to your taste. Add some small dumplings made of flour and
+butter. Simmer it another hour, or till all the vegetables are
+sufficiently done, and thus send it to table.
+
+You may thicken it with noodles, that is paste made of flour and beaten
+egg, and cut into long thin slips. Or with vermicelli, rice, or barley;
+or with green peas, or asparagus tops.
+
+RICH VEAL SOUP.
+
+Take three pounds of the scrag of a neck of veal, cut it into pieces,
+and put it with the bones (which must be broken up) into a pot with two
+quarts of water. Stew it till the meat is done to rags, and skim it
+well. Then strain it and return it to the pot.
+
+Blanch and pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, a quarter of a pound of
+sweet almonds, and mix them with the yolks of six hard boiled eggs
+grated, mid a pint of cream, which must first have been boiled or it
+will curdle in the soup. Season it with nutmeg and mace. Stir the
+mixture into the soup, and let it boil afterward about three minutes,
+stirring all the time. Lay in the bottom of the tureen some slices of
+bread without the crust. Pour the soup upon it, and send it to table.
+
+CLEAR GRAVY SOUP.
+
+Having well buttered the inside of a nicely tinned stew-pot, cut half a
+pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom, with three pounds
+of the lean of fresh beef, and as much veal, cut from the bones, which
+you must afterward break to pieces, and lay on the meat. Cover the pan
+closely, and set it over a quick fire. When the meat begins to stick to
+the pan, turn it; and when there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom,
+cover the meat with cold water. Watch it well, and when it is just
+coming to a boil, put in half a pint of cold water. This will cause the
+scum to rise. Skim it well, and then pour in another half pint of cold
+water; skim it again; pour in cold water as before, half a pint at a
+time, and repeat this till no more scum rises. In skimming, carefully
+avoid stirring the soup, as that will injure its clearness.
+
+In the mean time prepare your vegetables. Peel off the outer skin of
+three large white onions and slice them. Pare three large turnips, and
+slice them also. Wash clean and cut into small pieces three carrots,
+and three large heads of celery. If you cannot obtain fresh celery,
+substitute a large table-spoonful of celery seed, tied up in a bit of
+clear muslin. Put the vegetables into the soup, and then place the pot
+on one side of the fire, where the heat is not so great as in the
+middle. Let it boil gently for four hours. Then strain the soup through
+a fine towel or linen bag into a large stone pan, but do not squeeze
+the bag, or the soup will be cloudy, and look dull instead of clear. In
+pouring it into the straining cloth, be careful not to disturb the
+ingredients at the bottom of the soup-pot.
+
+This soup should be of a fine clear amber colour. If not perfectly
+bright after straining, you may clarify it in this manner. Put it into
+the stew-pan. Break the whites of two eggs into a basin, carefully
+avoiding the smallest particle of the yolk. Beat the white of egg to a
+stiff froth, and then mix it gradually with the soup. Set it over the
+fire, and stir it till it boils briskly. Then take it off, and set it
+beside the fire to settle for ten minutes. Strain it then through a
+clean napkin, and it will be fit for use. But it is better to have the
+soup clear by making it carefully, than to depend on clarifying it
+afterward, as the white of egg weakens the taste.
+
+In making this (which is quite a show-soup) it is customary to reverse
+the general rule, and pour in cold water.
+
+SOUPE À LA JULIENNE.
+
+Make a gravy soup as in the preceding receipt, and strain it before you
+put in the vegetables. Cut some turnips and carrots into ribands, and
+some onions and celery into lozenges or long diamond-shaped pieces.
+Boil them separately. When the vegetables are thoroughly boiled, put
+them with the soup into the tureen, and then lay gently on the top some
+small squares of toasted bread without crust; taking care that they do
+not crumble down and disturb the brightness of the soup, which should
+be of a clear amber colour.
+
+MACCARONI SOUP.
+
+This also is made of clear gravy soup. Cut up and boil the maccaroni by
+itself in a very little water, allowing a quarter of a pound to a quart
+of soup. The pieces should be about an inch long. Put a small piece of
+butter with it. It must boil till tender, but not till it breaks. Throw
+it into the soup shortly before it goes to table, and give it one boil
+up. Send to table with it a plate or glass of rasped Parmesan or other
+rich cheese, with a dessert spoon in it, that those who like it may put
+it into their soup on the plate.
+
+While the maccaroni is boiling, take care that it does not get into
+lumps.
+
+RICH MACCARONI SOUP.
+
+Take a quart of clear gravy soup, and boil in it a pound of the best
+maccaroni cut into pieces. When it is tender, take out half of the
+maccaroni, and add to the remainder two quarts more of the soup. Boil
+it till the maccaroni is entirely dissolved and incorporated with the
+liquid. Strain it; then return it to the soup-pan, and add to it the
+remainder of the maccaroni, (that was taken out before the pieces
+broke,) and put in a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Let
+it simmer awhile, but take it up before it comes to a boil.
+
+It may be made with milk instead of gravy soup.
+
+VERMICELLI SOUP.
+
+Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton into small pieces, and put
+them, with the bones broken up, into a large stew-pan. Add the meat
+sliced from a hock or shank of ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, two
+large onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a head of celery cut
+small. Cover the pan closely, and set it without any water over a slow
+fire for an hour or more, to extract the essence from the meat. Then
+skim it well, and pour in four quarts of boiling water, and let it boil
+gently till all the meat is reduced to rags. Strain it, set it again on
+the fire, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, which has first
+been scalded in boiling water. Season it to your taste with salt and
+cayenne pepper, and let it boil five minutes. Lay a large slice of
+bread in the bottom of your tureen, and pour the soup upon it.
+
+For the veal or mutton you may substitute a pair of large fowls cut
+into pieces; always adding the ham or a few slices of bacon, without
+which it will be insipid. Old fowls that are fit for no other purpose
+will do very well for soup.
+
+MILK SOUP.
+
+Boil two quarts of milk with a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and
+two ounces of bitter ones, blanched and broken to pieces, and a large
+stick of cinnamon broken up. Stir in sugar enough to make it very
+sweet. When it has boiled strain it. Cut some thin slices of bread, and
+(having pared off the crust) toast them. Lay them in the bottom of a
+tureen, pour a little of the hot milk over them, and cover them close,
+that they may soak. Beat the yolks of five eggs very light Set the milk
+on hot coals, and add the eggs to it by degrees; stirring it all the
+time till it thickens. Then take it off instantly, lest it curdle, and
+pour it into the tureen, boiling hot, over the bread.
+
+This will be still better if you cover the bottom with slices of baked
+apple.
+
+RICH BROWN SOUP.
+
+Take six pounds of the lean of fresh beef, cut from the bone. Stick it
+over with four dozen cloves. Season it with a tea-spoonful of salt, a
+tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of mace, and a beaten nutmeg.
+Slice half a dozen onions; fry them in butter; chop them, and spread
+them over the meat after you have put it into the soup-pot. Pour in
+five quarts of water, and stew it slowly for five or six hours;
+skimming it well. When the meat has dissolved into shreds, strain it,
+and return the liquid to the pot. Then add a tumbler and a half, or six
+wine glasses of claret or port wine. Simmer it again slowly till dinner
+time. When the soup is reduced to three quarts, it is done enough. Put
+it into a tureen, and send it to table.
+
+RICH WHITE SOUP.
+
+Take a pair of large fat fowls. Cut them up. Butter the inside of the
+soup-pot, and put in the pieces of fowl with two pounds of the lean of
+veal, cut into pieces, or with four calf’s feet cut in half. Season
+them with a tea-spoonful of salt, a half tea-spoonful of cayenne
+pepper, and a dozen blades of mace. Cover them with water, and stew it
+slowly for an hour, skimming it well. Then take out the breasts and
+wings of the fowls, and having cut off the flesh, chop it fine. Keep
+the pot covered, and the veal and the remainder of the fowls still
+stewing.
+
+Mix the chopped chicken with the grated crumb of about one quarter of a
+loaf of stale bread, (a six cent loaf,) having soaked the crumbs in a
+little warm milk. Have ready the yolks of four hard boiled eggs, a
+dozen sweet almonds, and half a dozen bitter ones blanched and broken
+small. Mix the egg and almonds with the chopped chicken and grated
+bread, and pound all in a mortar till it is well incorporated. Strain
+the soup from the meat and fowl, and stir this mixture into the liquid,
+after it has stewed till reduced to two quarts. Having boiled
+separately a quart of cream or rich milk, add it hot to the soup, a
+little at a time. Cover it, and let it simmer a few minutes longer.
+Then send it to table.
+
+These two soups (the brown and the white) are suited to dinner parties.
+
+MEG MERRILIES’ SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of venison, or if you cannot procure venison you may
+substitute the lean of fresh beef or mutton. Season it with pepper and
+salt, put it into a large pot, (break the bones and lay them on the
+meat,) pour in four quarts of water, and boil it three hours, skimming
+it well. Then strain it, and put it into another pot.
+
+Cut up a hare or a rabbit, a pair of partridges, and a pair of grouse;
+or one of each, with a pheasant, a woodcock, or any other game that you
+can most easily obtain. Season them and put them into the soup. Add a
+dozen small onions, a couple of heads of celery cut small, and half a
+dozen sliced potatoes. Let the soup simmer till the game is
+sufficiently done, and all the vegetables tender.
+
+This is the soup with which the gipsy, Meg Merrilies, regaled Dominie
+Sampson.
+
+When game is used for soup, it must be newly killed, and quite fresh.
+
+VENISON SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of freshly killed venison cut off from the bones, and
+one pound of ham in small slices. Add an onion minced, and black pepper
+to your taste. Put only as much water as will cover it, and stew it
+gently for an hour, keeping the pot closely covered. Then skim it well,
+and pour in a quart of boiling water. Add a head of celery cut into
+small pieces, and half a dozen blades of mace. Boil it gently two hours
+and a half. Then put in a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into
+small pieces and rolled in flour, and half a pint of port or Madeira
+wine. Let it boil a quarter of an hour longer, and then send it to
+table with the meat in it.
+
+HARE OR RABBIT SOUP.
+
+Take a large newly killed hare, or two rabbits; cut them up and wash
+the pieces. Save all the blood, (which adds much to the flavour of the
+hare,) and strain it through a sieve. Put the pieces into a soup-pot
+with four whole onions stuck with a few cloves, four or five blades of
+mace, a head of celery cut small, and a bunch of parsley with a large
+sprig of sweet marjoram and one of sweet basil, all tied together. Salt
+and cayenne to your taste. Pour in three quarts of water, and stew it
+gently an hour and a half. Then put in the strained blood and simmer it
+for another hour, at least. Do not let it actually boil, as that will
+cause the blood to curdle. Then strain it, and pound half the meat in a
+mortar, and stir it into the soup to thicken it, and cut the remainder
+of the meat into small mouthfuls. Stir in, at the last, a jill or two
+glasses of red wine, and a large table-spoonful of currant jelly. Boil
+it slowly a few minutes longer, and then put it into your tureen. It
+will be much improved by the addition of about a dozen and a half small
+force-meat balls, about the size of a nutmeg. This soup will require
+cooking at least four hours.
+
+Partridge, pheasant, or grouse soup may be made in a similar manner.
+
+If you have any clear gravy soup, you may cut up the hare, season it as
+above, and put it into a jug or jar well covered, and set in boiling
+water till the meat is tender. Then put it into the gravy soup, add the
+wine, and let it come to a boil. Send it to table with the pieces of
+the hare in the soup.
+
+When hare soup is made in this last manner, omit using the blood.
+
+
+MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, AS MADE IN INDIA.
+
+Take a quarter of an ounce of China turmeric, the third of an ounce of
+cassia, three drachms of black pepper, two drachms of cayenne pepper,
+and an ounce of coriander seeds. These must all be pounded fine in a
+mortar, and well mixed and sifted. They will make sufficient curry
+powder for the following quantity of soup:
+
+Take two large fowls, or three pounds of the lean of veal. Cut the
+flesh entirely from the bones in small pieces, and put it into a
+stew-pan with two quarts of water. Let it boil slowly for half an hour,
+skimming it well. Prepare four large onions, minced and fried in two
+ounces of butter. Add to them the curry powder and moisten the whole
+with broth from the stew-pan, mixed with a little rice flour. When
+thoroughly mixed, stir the seasoning into the soup, and simmer it till
+it is as smooth and thick as cream, and till the chicken or veal is
+perfectly tender. Then stir into it the juice of a lemon; and five
+minutes after take up the soup, with the meat in it, and serve it in
+the tureen.
+
+Send to table separately, boiled rice on a hot-water dish to keep it
+warm, The rice is to be put into the plates of soup by those who eat
+it.
+
+To boil rice for this soup in the East India fashion:—Pick and wash
+half a pound in warm water. Put it into a sauce-pan. Pour two quarts of
+boiling water over it, and cover the pan closely. Set it in a warm
+place by the fire, to cook gradually in the hot water. In an hour pour
+off all the water, and setting the pan on hot coals, stir up and toss
+the rice with a fork, so as to separate the grains, and to dry without
+hardening it. Do not use a spoon, as that will not loosen the grains
+sufficiently.
+
+MOCK TURTLE OR CALF’S HEAD SOUP.
+
+This soup will require eight hours to prepare. Take a large calf’s
+head, and having cleaned, washed, and soaked it, put it into a pot with
+a knuckle of veal, and the hock of a ham, or a few slices of bacon; but
+previously cut off and reserve enough of the veal to make two dozen
+small force-meat balls. Put the head and the other meat into as much
+water as will cover it very well, so that it may not be necessary to
+replenish it: this soup being always made very rich. Let it boil slowly
+four hours, skimming it carefully. As soon as no more scum rises, put
+in six potatoes, and three turnips, all sliced thin; with equal
+proportions of parsley, sweet marjoram and sweet basil, chopped fine;
+and pepper and salt to your taste.
+
+An hour before you send the meat to table, make about two dozen small
+force-meat balls of minced veal and beef-suet in equal quantities,
+seasoned with pepper and salt; sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, and
+powdered nutmeg and mace. Add some beaten yolk of egg to make all these
+ingredients stick together. Flour the balls very well, and fry them in
+butter. Before you put them into the soup, take out the head, and the
+other meat. Cut the meat from the head in small pieces, and return it
+to the soup. When the soup is nearly done, stir in half a pint of
+Madeira. Have ready at least a dozen egg-balls made of the yolks of
+hard-boiled eggs, grated or pounded in a mortar, and mixed with a
+little flour and sufficient raw yolk of egg to bind them. Make them up
+into the form and size of boy’s marbles. Throw them into the soup at
+the last, and also squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Let it get another
+slow boil, and then put it into the tureen.
+
+We omit a receipt for _real_ turtle soup, as when that very expensive,
+complicated, and difficult dish is prepared in a private family, it is
+advisable to hire a first-rate cook for the express purpose.
+
+An easy way is to get it ready made, in any quantity you please, from a
+turtle-soup house.
+
+OX TAIL SOUP.
+
+Three ox tails will make a large tureen full of soup. Desire the
+butcher to divide them at the joints. Rub them with salt, and put them
+to soak in warm water, while you prepare the vegetables. Put into a
+large pot or stew-pan four onions peeled and quartered, a bunch of
+parsley, two sliced carrots, two sliced turnips, and two dozen pepper
+corns. Then put in the tails, and pour on three quarts of water.
+
+Cover the pot, and set it on hot coals by the side of the fire. Keep it
+gently simmering for about three hours, supplying it well with fresh
+hot coals. Skim it carefully. When the meat is quite tender, and falls
+from the bones, strain the soup into another pot, and add to it a
+spoonful of mushroom catchup, and two spoonfuls of butter rubbed in
+flour.
+
+You may thicken it also with the pulp of a dozen onions first fried
+soft, and then rubbed through a cullender. After it is thickened, let
+it just boil up, and then send it to table, with small squares of
+toasted bread in the tureen.
+
+OCHRA SOUP.
+
+Take a large slice of ham (cold boiled ham is best) and two pounds of
+the lean of fresh beef; cut all the meat into small pieces. Add a
+quarter of a pound of butter slightly melted; twelve large tomatas
+pared and cut small; five dozen ochras cut into slices not thicker than
+a cent; and salt and cayenne pepper to your taste. Put all these
+ingredients into a pot; cover them with boiling water, and let them
+stew slowly for an hour. Then add three quarts of _hot_ water, and
+increase the heat so as to make the soup boil. Skim it well, and stir
+it frequently with a wooden or silver spoon.
+
+Boil it till the tomatas are all to pieces, and the ochras entirely
+dissolved. Strain it, and then serve it up with toasted bread cut into
+dice, put in after it comes out of the pot.
+
+This soup will be improved by a pint of shelled Lima beans, boiled by
+themselves, and put into the tureen just before you send it to table.
+
+BEAN SOUP.
+
+Put two quarts of dried white beans into soak the night before you make
+the soup, which should be put on as early in the day as possible.
+
+Take five pounds of the lean of fresh beef—the coarse pieces will do.
+Cut them up, and put them into your soup-pot with the bones belonging
+to them, (which should be broken to pieces,) and a pound of bacon cut
+very small. If you have the remains of a piece of beef that has been
+roasted the day before, and so much under-done that the juices remain
+in it, you may put it into the pot, and its bones along with it. Season
+the meat with pepper and salt, and pour on it six quarts of water. As
+soon as it boils take off the scum, and put in the beans (having first
+drained them) and a head of celery cut small, or a table-spoonful of
+pounded celery-seed. Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds,
+and the beans all dissolved. Then strain it through a cullender into
+the tureen, and put into it small squares of toasted bread with the
+crust cut off.
+
+Some prefer it with the beans boiled soft, but not quite dissolved. In
+this case, do not strain it; but take out the meat and bones with a
+fork before you send it to table.
+
+PEAS SOUP.
+
+Soak two quarts of dried or split peas overnight. In the morning take
+three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and a pound of bacon or pickled
+pork. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a large soup-pot with the
+peas, (which must first be well drained,) and a table-spoonful of dried
+mint rubbed to powder. Add five quarts of water, and boil the soup
+gently for three hours, skimming it well, and then put in four heads of
+celery cut small, or two table-spoonfuls of pounded celery seed.
+
+It must be boiled till the peas are entirely dissolved, so as to be no
+longer distinguishable, and the celery quite soft. Then strain it into
+a tureen, and serve it up with toasted bread cut in dice. Omit the
+crust of the bread.
+
+Stir it up immediately before it goes to table, as it is apt to settle,
+and be thick at the bottom and thin at the top.
+
+GREEN PEAS SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound of bacon. Cut them to
+pieces, and put them into a soup kettle with a sprig of mint and four
+quarts of water. Boil it moderately fast, and skim it well. When the
+meat is boiled to rags, strain it out, and put to the liquor a quart of
+young green peas. Boil them till they are entirely dissolved, and till
+they have thickened the soup, and given it a green colour. [Footnote:
+You may greatly improve the colour by pounding a handful of spinach in
+a mortar, straining the juice, and adding it to the soup about a
+quarter of an hour before it has done boiling.]
+
+Have ready two quarts of green peas that have been boiled in another
+pot with a sprig of mint, and two or three lumps of loaf sugar, (which
+will greatly improve the taste.) After they have boiled in this pot
+twenty minutes, take out the mint, put the whole peas into the pot of
+soup, and boil all together about ten minutes. Then put it into a
+tureen, and send it to table.
+
+Never use hard old green peas for this soup, or for any other purpose.
+When they begin to turn yellow, it is time to leave them off for the
+season.
+
+Lima bean soup may be made in the same manner.
+
+ASPARAGUS SOUP.
+
+Asparagus soup may be made in a similar manner to that of green peas.
+You must have four or five bunches of asparagus. Cut off the green
+tops, and put half of them into the soup, after the meat has been
+boiled to pieces and strained out. The asparagus must be boiled till
+quite dissolved, and till it has given a green colour to the soup. Then
+take the remainder of the asparagus tops (which must all this time have
+been lying in cold water) and put them into the soup, and let them boil
+about twenty minutes. Serve it up with small squares of toast in the
+tureen.
+
+You may heighten the green of this soup by adding the juice of a
+handful of spinach, pounded in a mortar and strained. Or you may colour
+it with the juice of boiled spinach squeezed through a cloth. The
+spinach juice should be put in fifteen or ten minutes before you take
+up the soup, as a short boiling in it will take off the peculiar taste.
+
+FRIAR’S CHICKEN.
+
+Cut up four pounds of knuckle of veal; season it with white pepper and
+salt: put it into a soup-pan and let it boil slowly till the meat drops
+from the bone. Then strain it off. Have ready a pair of young fowls
+skinned, and cut up as you carve them at table. Season them with white
+pepper, salt, and mace. Put them into the soup, add a handful of
+chopped parsley, and let them boil. When the pieces of chicken are all
+quite tender, have ready four or five eggs well beaten. Stir the egg
+into the soup, and take it immediately off the fire lest it curdle.
+Serve up the chicken in the soup.
+
+Rabbits may be substituted for fowls.
+
+CATFISH SOUP.
+
+Catfish that have been caught near the middle of the river are much
+nicer than those that are taken near the shore where they have access
+to impure food. The small white ones are the best. Having cut off their
+heads, skin the fish, and clean them, and cut them in three. To twelve
+small catfish allow a pound and a half of ham. Cut the ham into small
+pieces, or slice it very thin, and scald it two or three times in
+boiling water, lest it be too salt. Chop together a bunch of parsley
+and some sweet marjoram stripped from the stalks. Put these ingredients
+into a soup kettle and season them with pepper: the ham will make it
+salt enough. Add a head of celery cut small, or a large table-spoonful
+of celery seed tied up in a bit of clear muslin to prevent its
+dispersing. Pat in two quarts of water, cover the kettle, and let it
+boil slowly till every thing is sufficiently done, and the fish and ham
+quite tender. Skim it frequently. Boil in another vessel a quart of
+rich milk, in which you have melted a quarter of a pound of butter
+divided into small bits and rolled in flour. Pour it hot to the soup,
+and stir in at the last the beaten yolks of four eggs. Give it another
+boil, just to take off the rawness of the eggs, and then put it into a
+tureen, taking out the bag of celery seed before you send the soup to
+table, and adding some toasted bread cut into small squares. In making
+toast for soap, cut the bread thick, and pare off all the crust.
+
+This soup will be found very fine.
+
+Eel soup may be made in the same manner: chicken soup also.
+
+LOBSTER SOUP.
+
+Have ready a good broth made of a knuckle of veal boiled slowly in as
+much water as will cover it, till the meat is reduced to rags. It must
+then be well strained.
+
+Having boiled three fine middle-sized lobsters, extract all the meat
+from the body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a mortar, and also
+an equal quantity of the meat. Mix them well together. Add mace,
+nutmeg, cayenne, and a little grated lemon-peel; and make them up into
+force-meat balls, binding the mixture with the yolk of an egg slightly
+beaten.
+
+Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the meat of the
+lobsters cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together about twenty minutes.
+Then thicken it with the remaining coral, (which you must first rub
+through a sieve,) and add the force-meat balls, and a little butter
+rolled in flour. Simmer it gently for ten minutes, but do not let it
+come to a boil, as that will injure the colour. Pour it into a tureen,
+and send it to table immediately.
+
+OYSTER SOUP.
+
+To two quarts of oysters add a pint of water, and let them set an hour.
+Then take them out of the liquor. Grate and roll fine a dozen crackers.
+Put them into the liquor with a large lump of fresh butter. When the
+grated biscuit has quite dissolved, add a quart of milk with a grated
+nutmeg, and a dozen blades of mace; and, if in season, a head of celery
+split fine and cut into small pieces. Season it to your taste with
+pepper.
+
+Mix the whole together, and set it in a closely covered vessel over a
+slow fire. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters; and when it
+comes to a boil again, they will be sufficiently done.
+
+Before you send it to table put into the tureen some toasted bread cut
+into small squares, omitting the crust.
+
+PLAIN OYSTER SOUP.
+
+Take two quarts of large oysters. Strain their liquor into a soup pan;
+season it with a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a tea-spoonful of whole
+allspice, the same quantity of whole cloves, and seven or eight blades
+of mace. If the oysters are fresh, add a large tea-spoonful of salt; if
+they are salt oysters, none is requisite. Set the pan on hot coals, and
+boil it slowly (skimming it when necessary) till you find that it is
+sufficiently flavoured with the taste of the spice. In the mean time
+(having cut out the hard part) chop the oysters fine, and season them
+with a powdered nutmeg. Take the liquor from the fire, and strain out
+the spice from it. Then return it to the soup pan, and put the chopped
+oysters into it, with whatever liquid may have continued about them.
+Add a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into little bits and rolled
+in flour. Cover the pan, and let it boil hard about five minutes. If
+oysters are cooked too much they become tough and tasteless.
+
+CLAM SOUP.
+
+Having put your clams into a pot of boiling water to make them open
+easily, take them from the shells, carefully saving the liquor. To the
+liquor of a quart of opened clams, allow three quarts of water. Mix the
+water with the liquor of the clams and put it into a large pot with a
+knuckle of veal, the bone of which should be chopped in four places.
+When it has simmered slowly for four hours, put in a large bunch of
+sweet herbs, a beaten nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of mace, and a
+table-spoonful of whole pepper, but no salt, as the salt of the clam
+liquor will be sufficient. Stew it slowly an hour longer, and then
+strain it. When you have returned the liquor to the pot, add a quarter
+of a pound of butter divided into four and each bit rolled in flour.
+Then put in the clams, (having cut them, in pieces,) and let it boil
+fifteen minutes. Send it to table with toasted bread in it cut into
+dice.
+
+This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of small force-meat
+balls. Make them of cold minced veal or chicken, mixed with equal
+quantities of chopped suet and sweet marjoram, and a smaller proportion
+of hard-boiled egg, grated lemon-peel, and powdered nutmeg. Pound all
+the ingredients together in a mortar, adding a little pepper and salt.
+Break in a raw egg or two (in proportion to the quantity) to bind the
+whole together and prevent it from crumbling to pieces. When thoroughly
+mixed, make the force-meat into small balls, and let them boil ten
+minutes in the soup, shortly before you send it to table. If you are
+obliged to make them of raw veal or raw chicken they must boil longer.
+
+It will be a great improvement to cut up a yam and boil it in the soup.
+
+Oyster soup may be made in this manner.
+
+PLAIN CLAM SOUP.
+
+Take a hundred clams, well washed, and put them into a large pot of
+boiling water. This will cause the shells to open. As they open take
+them out, and extract the clams, taking care to save the liquor. Mix
+with the liquor a quart of water, (or what will be much better, a quart
+of milk,) and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Add a large bunch
+of parsley tied up, and a large table-spoonful of whole pepper. Put the
+liquid into a pot over a moderate fire. Make some little round
+dumplings (about the size of a hickory nut) of flour and butter, and
+put them into the soup. When it comes to a boil, put in the clams, and
+keep them boiling an hour. Take them out before you send the soup to
+table.
+
+When the soup is done, take out the bunch of parsley. Have ready some
+toasted bread cut into small squares or dice. Put it into the soup
+before you send it to table.
+
+You may make oyster soup in a similar manner.
+
+WATER SOUCHY.
+
+Cut up four flounders, or half a dozen perch, two onions, and a bunch
+of parsley. Put them into three quarts of water, and boil them till the
+fish go entirely to pieces, and dissolve in the water. Then strain the
+liquor through a sieve, and put it into a kettle or stew-pan. Have
+ready a few more fish with the heads, tails, and fins removed, and the
+brown skin taken off. Cut little notches in them, and lay them for a
+short time in very cold water. Then put them into the stew-pan with the
+liquor or soup-stock of the first fish. Season with pepper, salt, and
+mace, and add half a pint of white wine or two table-spoonfuls of
+vinegar. Boil it gently for a quarter of an hour, and skim it well.
+
+Provide some parsley roots, cut into slices and boiled till very
+tender; and also a quantity of parsley leaves boiled nice and green.
+After the fish-pan has boiled moderately fifteen minutes, take it off
+the fire, and put in the parsley roots; also a little mushroom catchup.
+
+Take out the fish and lay them in a broad deep dish, or in a tureen,
+and then pour on the soup very gently for fear of breaking them. Strew
+the green parsley leaves over the top. Have ready plates of bread and
+butter, which it is customary to eat with water souchy.
+
+You may omit the wine or vinegar, and flavour the soup just before you
+take it from the fire with essence of anchovy, or with any other of the
+essences and compound fish-sauces that are in general use.
+
+Water souchy (commonly pronounced _sookey_) is a Dutch soup. It may be
+made of any sort of small fish; but flounders and perch are generally
+used for it. It is very good made of carp.
+
+
+
+
+FISH.
+
+
+REMARKS.
+
+In choosing fresh fish, select only those that are thick and firm, with
+bright scales and stiff fins; the gills a very lively red, and the eyes
+full and prominent. In the summer, as soon as they are brought home,
+clean them, and put them in ice till you are ready to cook them; and
+even then do not attempt to keep a fresh fish till next day. Mackerel
+cannot be cooked too soon, as they spoil more readily than any other
+fish.
+
+Oysters in the shell may be kept from a week to a fortnight, by the
+following process. Cover them with water, and wash them clean with a
+birch broom. Then lay them with the deep or concave part of the shell
+undermost, and sprinkle each of them well with salt and Indian meal.
+Fill up the tub with cold water. Repeat this every day; first pouring
+off the liquid of the day before.
+
+The tub must stand all the time in a cool cellar, and be covered well
+with an old blanket, carpeting, or something of the sort.
+
+If carefully attended to, oysters kept in this manner will not only
+live but fatten.
+
+It is customary to eat fish only at the commencement of the dinner.
+Fish and soup are generally served up alone, before any of the other
+dishes appear, and with no vegetable but potatoes; it being considered
+a solecism in good taste to accompany them with any of the other
+productions of the garden except a little horseradish, parsley, &c. as
+garnishing.
+
+In England, and at the most fashionable tables in America, bread only
+is eaten with fish. To this rule salt cod is an exception.
+
+TO BOIL FRESH SALMON
+
+Scale and clean the fish, handling it as little as possible, and
+cutting it open no more than is absolutely necessary. Place it on the
+strainer of a large fish-kettle and fill it up with cold water. Throw
+in a handful of salt. Let it boil slowly. The length of time depends on
+the size and weight of the fish. You may allow a quarter of an hour to
+each pound; but experience alone can determine the exact time. It must
+however be thoroughly done, as nothing is more disgusting than fish
+that is under-cooked. You may try it with a fork. Skim it well or the
+colour will be bad.
+
+The minute it is completely boiled, lift up the strainer and rest it
+across the top of the kettle, that the fish may drain, and then, if you
+cannot send it to table immediately, cover it with a soft napkin or
+flannel several folds double, to keep it firm by absorbing the
+moisture.
+
+Send it to table on a hot dish. Garnish with scraped horseradish and
+curled parsley. Have ready a small tureen of lobster sauce to accompany
+the salmon.
+
+Take what is left of it after dinner, and put it into a deep dish with
+a close cover. Having saved some of the water in which the fish was
+boiled, take a quart of it, and season it with half an ounce of whole
+pepper, and half an ounce of whole allspice, half a pint of the best
+vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Boil it; and when cold, pour it
+over the fish, and cover it closely again. In a cold place, and set on
+ice, it will keep a day or two, and may be eaten at breakfast or
+supper.
+
+If much of the salmon has been left, you must proportion a larger
+quantity of the pickle.
+
+Boil salmon trout in a similar manner.
+
+TO BAKE FRESH SALMON WHOLE
+
+Having cleaned a small or moderate sized salmon, season it with salt,
+pepper, and powdered mace rubbed on it both outside and in. Skewer it
+with the tail turned round and put to the mouth. Lay it on a stand or
+trivet in a deep dish or pan, and stick it over with bits of butter
+rolled in flour. Put it into the oven, and baste it occasionally, while
+baking, with its own drippings.
+
+Garnish it with horseradish and sprigs of curled parsley, laid
+alternately round the edge of the dish; and send to table with it a
+small tureen of lobster sauce.
+
+Salmon trout may be drest in the same manner.
+
+SALMON BAKED IN SLICES.
+
+Take out the bone and cut the flesh into slices. Season them with
+cayenne and salt. Melt two ounces of butter that has been rolled in
+flour, in a half pint of water, and mix with it two large glasses of
+port wine, two table-spoonfuls of catchup, and two anchovies. This
+allowance is for a small quantity of salmon. For a large dish you must
+proportion the ingredients accordingly. Let the anchovies remain in the
+liquid till they are dissolved. Then strain it and pour it over the
+slices of salmon. Tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and put
+it into the oven.
+
+You may bake trout or carp in the same manner.
+
+SALMON STEAKS
+
+Split the salmon and take out the bone as nicely as possible, without
+mangling the flesh. Then cut it into fillets or steaks about an inch
+thick. Dry them lightly in a cloth, and dredge them with flour. Take
+care not to squeeze or press them. Have ready some clear bright coals,
+such as are fit for beef-steaks. Let the gridiron be clean and bright,
+and rub the bars with chalk to prevent the fish from sticking. Broil
+the slices thoroughly, turning them with steak tongs. Send them to
+table hot, wrapped in the folds of a napkin that has been heated. Serve
+up with them anchovy, or prawn, or lobster sauce.
+
+Many epicures consider this the best way of cooking salmon.
+
+Another way, perhaps still nicer, is to take some pieces of white paper
+and butter them well. Wrap in each a slice of salmon, securing the
+paper around them, with a string or pins. Lay them on a gridiron, and
+broil them over a clear but moderate fire, till thoroughly done. Take
+off the paper, and send the cutlets to table hot, garnished with fried
+parsley.
+
+Serve up with them prawn or lobster sauce in a boat.
+
+PICKLED SALMON.
+
+Take a fine fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into large
+pieces, and boil it in salted water as if for eating. Then drain it,
+wrap it in a dry cloth, and set it in a cold place till next day. Then
+make the pickle, which must be in proportion to the quantity of fish.
+To one quart of the water in which the salmon was boiled, allow two
+quarts of the best vinegar, one ounce of whole black pepper, one ounce
+of whole allspice, and a dozen blades of mace. Boil all these together
+in a kettle closely covered to prevent the flavour from evaporating.
+When the vinegar thus prepared is quite cold, pour it over the salmon,
+and put on the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil, which will make it
+keep the longer.
+
+Cover it closely, put it in a dry cool place, and it will be good for
+many months.
+
+This is the nicest way of preserving salmon, and is approved by all who
+have tried it. Garnish with fennel.
+
+SMOKED SALMON.
+
+Cut the fish up the back; clean, and scale it, and take out the roe,
+but do not wash it. Take the bone neatly out. Rub it well inside and
+out with a mixture of salt and fine Havanna sugar, in equal quantities,
+and a small portion of saltpetre. Cover the fish with a board on which
+weights are placed to press it down, and let it lie thus for two days
+and two nights. Drain it from the salt, wipe it dry, stretch it open,
+and fasten it so with pieces of stick. Then hang it up and smoke it
+over a wood fire. It will be smoked sufficiently in five or six days.
+
+When you wish to eat it, cut off slices, soak them awhile in lukewarm
+water, and broil them for breakfast.
+
+TO BOIL HALIBUT.
+
+Halibut is seldom cooked whole; a piece weighing from four to six
+pounds being generally thought sufficient. Score deeply the skin of the
+back, and when you put it into the kettle lay it on the strainer with
+the back undermost. Cover it with cold water, and throw in a handful of
+salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast. Skim it carefully, and
+when it has boiled hard a few minutes, hang the kettle higher, or
+diminish the fire under it, so as to let it simmer for about
+twenty-five or thirty minutes. Then drain it, and send it to table,
+garnished with alternate heaps of grated horseradish and curled
+parsley, and accompanied by a boat of egg-sauce.
+
+What is left of the halibut, you may prepare for the supper-table by
+mincing it when cold, and seasoning it with a dressing of salt,
+cayenne, sweet oil, hard-boiled yolk of egg, and a large proportion of
+vinegar.
+
+HALIBUT CUTLETS.
+
+Cut your halibut into steaks or cutlets about an inch thick. Wipe them
+with a dry cloth, and season them with salt and cayenne pepper. Have
+ready a pan of yolk of egg well beaten, and a large flat dish of grated
+bread crumbs.
+
+Put some fresh lard or clarified beef dripping into a frying pan, and
+hold it over a clear fire till it boils. Dip your cutlets into the
+beaten egg, and then into the bread crumbs. Fry them of a light brown.
+Serve them up hot, with the gravy in the bottom of the dish.
+
+Salmon or any large fish may be fried in the same manner.
+
+Halibut cutlets are very fine cut quite thin and fried in the best
+sweet oil, omitting the egg and bread crumbs.
+
+TO BROIL MACKEREL.
+
+Mackerel cannot be eaten in perfection except at the sea-side, where it
+can be had immediately out of the water. It loses its flavour in a very
+few hours, and spoils sooner than any other fish. Broiling is the best
+way of cooking it.
+
+Clean two fine fresh mackerel, and wipe them dry with a cloth. Split
+them open and rub them with salt. Spread some very bright coals on the
+hearth, and set the gridiron over them well greased. Lay on the
+mackerel, and broil them very nicely, taking care not to let them burn.
+When one side is quite done, turn them on the other. Lay them, on a hot
+dish, and butter and pepper them before they go to table. Garnish them
+with lumps or pats of minced paisley mixed with butter, pepper and
+salt.
+
+BOILED MACKEREL.
+
+Clean the mackerel well, and let them lie a short time in vinegar and
+water. Then put them into the fish-kettle with cold water and a handful
+of salt. Boil them slowly. If small, they will be sufficiently cooked
+in twenty minutes. When the eye starts and the tail splits they are
+done. Take them up immediately on finding them boiled enough. If they
+stand any time in the water they will break.
+
+Serve them up with parsley sauce, and garnish the dish with lumps of
+minced parsley.
+
+They are eaten with mustard.
+
+For boiling, choose those that have soft roes.
+
+Another way is to put them in cold salt and water, and let them warm
+gradually for an hour. Then give them one hard boil, and they will be
+done.
+
+TO BOIL SALT CODFISH.
+
+The day previous to that on which it is to be eaten, take the fish
+about four o’clock in the afternoon, and put it into a kettle of cold
+water. Then place it within the kitchen fire-place, so as to keep it
+blood-warm. Next morning at ten, take out the fish, scrub it clean with
+a hard brash, and put it into a kettle of fresh cold water, into which
+a jill of molasses has been stirred. The molasses will be found an
+improvement. Place the kettle again near the fire, until about twenty
+minutes before dinner. Then hang it over the fire, and boil it hard a
+quarter of an hour, or a little more.
+
+When done, drain it, and cut it into large pieces. Wrap them closely in
+a fine napkin and send them to table on a large dish, garnished round
+the edge with hard-boiled eggs, either cut in half, or in circular
+slices, yolks and whites together. Have ready in a small tureen,
+egg-sauce made with, drawn butter, thickened with hard-boiled eggs
+chopped fine. Place on one side of the fish a dish of mashed potatoes,
+on the other a dish of boiled parsnips.
+
+The most usual way of preparing salt cod for eating when it comes to
+table, is (after picking out all the bones) to mince it fine on your
+plate, and mix it with mashed potato, parsnip, and egg-sauce; seasoning
+it to your taste with cayenne and mustard. What is left may be prepared
+for breakfast nest morning. It should be put into a skillet or spider,
+which must be well buttered inside, and set over hot coals to warm and
+brown. Or it may be made up into small cakes and fried.
+
+You may add to the mixture onions boiled and chopped.
+
+TO BOIL FRESH COD.
+
+Having washed and cleaned the fish, leave out the roe and liver; rub
+some salt on the inside, and if the weather is very cold you may keep
+it till next day. Put sufficient water in the fish-kettle to cover the
+fish very well, and add to the water a large handful of salt. As soon
+as the salt is entirely melted put in the fish. A very small codfish
+will be done in about twenty minutes, (after the water has boiled;) a
+large one will take half an hour, or more. Garnish with the roe and
+liver fried, or with scraped horseradish. Send it to table with
+oyster-sauce in a boat. Or you may make a sauce by flavouring your
+melted butter with a glass of port wine, and an anchovy boned and
+minced.
+
+ANOTHER WAY OF BOILING FRESH COD.
+
+Put the fish into cold water with a handful of salt, and let it slowly
+and gradually warm for three hours if the cod is large, and two hours
+if it is small. Then increase the fire, and boil it hard for a few
+minutes only.
+
+BAKED SHAD.
+
+Keep on the head and fins. Make a force-meat or stuffing of grated
+bread crumbs, cold boiled ham or bacon minced fine, sweet marjoram,
+pepper, salt, and a little powdered mace or cloves. Moisten it with
+beaten yolk of egg. Stuff the inside of the fish with it, reserving a
+little to rub over the outside, having first rubbed the fish all over
+with yolk of egg. Lay the fish in a deep pan, putting its tail to its
+mouth. Pour into the bottom of the pan a little water, and add a jill
+of port wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Bake it well, and
+when it is done, send it to table with the gravy poured round it.
+Garnish with slices of lemon.
+
+Any fish may be baked in the same manner.
+
+A large fish of ten or twelve pounds weight, will require about two
+hours baking.
+
+TO BROIL A SHAD.
+
+Split and wash the shad, and afterwards dry it in a cloth. Season it
+with salt and pepper. Have ready a bed of clear bright coals. Grease
+your gridiron well, and as soon as it is hot lay the shad upon it, and
+broil it for about a. quarter of an hour or more, according to the
+thickness. Butter it well, and send it to table. You may serve with it
+melted butter in a sauce-boat.
+
+Or you may cut it into three pieces and broil it without splitting. It
+will then, of course, require a longer time. If done in this manner,
+send it to table with melted butter poured over it.
+
+BOILED ROCK-FISH.
+
+Having cleaned the rock-fish, put it into a fish-kettle with water
+enough to cover it well, having first dissolved a handful of salt in
+the water. Set it over a moderate fire, and do not let it boil too
+fast. Skim it well.
+
+When done, drain it, and put it on a large dish. Have ready a few eggs
+boiled hard. Cut them in half, and lay them closely on the back of the
+fish in a straight line from the head to the tail. Send with it in a
+boat, celery sauce flavoured with a little cayenne.
+
+SEA BASS OR BLACK FISH.
+
+May be boiled and served up in the above manner.
+
+PICKLED ROCK-FISH.
+
+Have ready a large rock-fish. Put on your fish-kettle with a
+sufficiency of water to cover the fish amply; spring or pump water is
+best. As soon as the water boils, throw in a tea-cup full of salt, and
+put in the fish. Boil it gently for about half an hour, skimming it
+well. Then take it out, and drain it, laying it slantingly. Reserve a
+part of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and season it to
+your taste with whole cloves, allspice, and mace. Boil it up to extract
+the strength from the spice, and after it has boiled add to it an equal
+quantity of the best vinegar. You must have enough of this liquid to
+cover the fish again. When the fish is quite cold, cut off the head and
+tail, and cut the body into large pieces, extracting the back-bone. Put
+it into a stone jar, and when the spiced liquor is cold, pour it on the
+fish, cover the jar closely, and set it in a cool place. It will be fit
+for use in a day or two, and if well secured from the air, and put into
+a cold place will keep a fortnight.
+
+FRIED PERCH.
+
+Having cleaned the fish and dried them, with a cloth, lay them, side by
+side, on a board or large dish; sprinkle them with salt, and dredge
+them with flour. After a while turn them, and salt and dredge the other
+side. Put some lard or fresh beef-dripping into a frying-pan, and hold
+it over the fire. When the lard boils, put in the fish and fry them of
+a yellowish brown. Send to table with them in a boat, melted butter
+flavoured with anchovy.
+
+Flounders or other small fish may be fried in the same manner.
+
+You may know when the lard or dripping is hot enough, by dipping in the
+tail of one of the fish. If it becomes crisp immediately, the lard is
+in a proper state for frying. Or you may try it with a piece of stale
+bread which will become brown directly, if the lard is in order.
+
+There should always be enough of lard to cover the fish entirely. After
+they have fried five minutes on one side, turn them and fry them five
+minutes on the other. Skim the lard or dripping always before you put
+in the fish.
+
+TO FRY TROUT.
+
+Having cleaned the fish, and cut off the fins, dredge them with flour.
+Have ready some beaten yolk of egg, and in a separate dish some grated
+bread crumbs. Dip each fish into the egg, and then strew them with
+bread crumbs. Put some butter or fresh beef-dripping into a frying-pan,
+and hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot; then, (having skimmed
+it,) put in the fish and fry them.
+
+Prepare some melted butter with a spoonful of mushroom-catchup and a
+spoonful of lemon-pickle stirred into it. Send it to table in a
+sauce-boat to eat with the fish.
+
+You may fry carp and flounders in the same manner.
+
+TO BOIL TROUT.
+
+Put a handful of salt into the water. When it boils put in the trout.
+Boil them fast about twenty minutes, according to their size.
+
+For sauce, send with them melted butter, and put some soy into it; or
+flavour it with catchup.
+
+FRIED SEA BASS.
+
+Score the fish on the back with a knife, and season them with salt and
+cayenne pepper. Cut some small onions in round slices, and chop fine a
+bunch of parsley. Put some butter into a frying-pan over the fire, and
+when it is boiling hot lay in the fish. When they are about half done
+put the onions and parsley into the pan. Keep turning the fish that the
+onions and parsley may adhere to both sides. When quite done, put them
+into the dish in which they are to go to table, and garnish the edge of
+the dish with hard boiled eggs cut in round slices.
+
+Make in the pan in which they have been fried, a gravy, by adding some
+butter rolled in flour, and a small quantity of vinegar. Pour it into
+the dish with the fish.
+
+STURGEON CUTLETS OR STEAKS.
+
+This is the most approved way of dressing sturgeon. Carefully take off
+the skin, as its oiliness will give the fish a strong and disagreeable
+taste when cooked. Cut from the tail-piece slices about half an inch
+thick, rub them with salt, and broil them over a clear fire of bright
+coals. Butter them, sprinkle them with cayenne pepper, and send them to
+table hot, garnished with sliced lemon, as lemon-juice is generally
+squeezed over them when eaten.
+
+Another way is to make a seasoning of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, pepper
+and salt. First dip the slices of sturgeon, in beaten yolk of egg, then
+cover them with seasoning, wrap them up closely in sheets of white
+paper well buttered, broil them over a clear fire, and send them to
+table either with or without the papers.
+
+STEWED CARP.
+
+Having cut off the head, tail, and fins, season the carp with salt,
+peppers and powdered mace, both, inside and out. Rub the seasoning on
+very well, and let them lay in it an hour, Then put them into a
+stew-pan with a little parsley shred fine, a whole onion, a little
+sweet marjoram, a tea-cup of thick cream or very rich milk, and a lump
+of butter rolled in flour. Pour in sufficient water to cover the carp,
+and let it stew half an hour.
+
+Perch may be done in the same way.
+
+You may dress a piece of sturgeon in this manner, but you must first
+boil it for twenty minutes to extract the oil. Take off the skin before
+you proceed to stew the fish.
+
+CHOWDER.
+
+Take a pound or more of salt pork, and having half boiled it, cut it
+into slips, and with some of them cover the bottom of a pot. Then strew
+on some sliced onion. Have ready a large fresh cod, or an equal
+quantity of haddock, tutaug, or any other firm fish. Cut the fish into
+large pieces, and lay part of it on the pork and onions. Season it with
+pepper. Then cover it with a layer of biscuit, or crackers that have
+been previously soaked in milk or water. You may add also a layer of
+sliced potatoes.
+
+Next proceed with a second layer of pork, onions, fish, &c. and
+continue as before till the pot is nearly full; finishing with soaked
+crackers. Pour in about a pint and a half of cold water. Cover it
+close, set it on hot coals, and let it simmer about an hour. Then skim
+it, and turn it out into a deep dish. Leave the gravy in the pot till
+you have thickened it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and some
+chopped parsley. Then give it one boil up, and pour it hot into the
+dish.
+
+Chowder may be made of clams, first cutting off the hard part.
+
+
+
+
+SHELL FISH
+
+
+PICKLED OYSTERS.
+
+Take a hundred and fifty fine large oysters, and pick off carefully the
+bits of shell that may be sticking to them. Lay the oysters in a deep
+dish, and then strain the liquor over them. Put them into an iron
+skillet that is lined with porcelain, and add salt to your taste.
+Without salt they will not be firm enough. Set the skillet on hot
+coals, and allow the oysters to simmer till they are heated all
+through, but not till they boil. Then take out the oysters and put them
+into a stone jar, leaving the liquor in the skillet. Add to it a pint
+of clear strong vinegar, a large tea-spoonful of blades of mace, three
+dozen whole cloves, and three dozen whole pepper corns. Let it come to
+a boil, and when the oysters are quite cold in the jar, pour the liquor
+oh them.
+
+They are fit for use immediately, but are better the next day. In cold
+weather they will keep a week.
+
+If you intend sending them a considerable distance you must allow the
+oysters to boil, and double the proportions of the pickle and spice.
+
+FRIED OYSTERS.
+
+Get the largest and finest oysters. After they are taken from the shell
+wipe each of them quite dry with a cloth. Then beat up in a pan yolk of
+egg and milk, (in the proportion of two yolks to half a jill or a wine
+glass of milk,) and grate some stale broad grated very fine in a large
+flat dish. Cut up at least half a pound of fresh butter in the
+frying-pan, and hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot. Dip the
+oysters all over lightly in the mixture of egg and milk, and then roll
+them up and down in the grated bread, making as many crumbs stick to
+them as you can.
+
+Put them into the frying-pan of hot butter, and keep it over a hot
+fire. Fry them brown, turning them that they may be equally browned on
+both sides. If properly done they will be crisp, and not greasy.
+
+Serve them, dry in a hot dish, and do not pour over them the butter
+that may be left in the pan when they are fried.
+
+Oysters are very good taken out of the shells and broiled on a
+gridiron.
+
+SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.
+
+Having grated a sufficiency of stale bread, butter a deep dish, and
+line the sides and bottom thickly with bread crumbs. Then put in a
+layer of seasoned oysters, with a few very small bits of butter on
+them. Cover them thickly with crumbs, and put in another layer of
+oysters and butter, till the dish is filled up, having a thick layer of
+crumbs on the top. Put the dish into an oven, and bake them a very
+short time, or they will shrivel. Serve them up hot.
+
+You may bake them in large clam shells, or in the tin scollop shells
+made for the purpose. Butter the bottom of each shell; sprinkle it with
+bread crumbs; lay on the oysters seasoned with cayenne and nutmeg, and
+put a morsel of butter on each. Fill up the shells with a little of the
+oyster liquor thickened with bread crumbs, and set them on a gridiron
+over coals, browning them afterwards with a red-hot shovel.
+
+STEWED OYSTERS.
+
+Put the oysters into a sieve, and set it on a pan to drain the liquor
+from them. Then cut off the hard part, and put the oysters into a
+stew-pan with some whole pepper, a few blades of mace, and some grated
+nutmeg. Add a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Then pour over
+them about half of the liquor, or a little more. Set the pan on hot
+coals, and simmer them gently about five minutes. Try one, and if it
+tastes raw cook them a little longer. Make some thin slices of toast,
+having cut off all the crust. Butter the toast and lay it in the bottom
+of a deep dish. Put the oysters upon it with the liquor in which they
+were stewed.
+
+The liquor of oysters should never be thickened by stirring in flour.
+It spoils the taste, and gives them a sodden and disagreeable
+appearance, and is no longer practised by good cooks.
+
+OYSTER FRITTERS.
+
+Have ready some of the finest and largest oysters; drain them from the
+liquor and wipe them dry.
+
+Beat six eggs very light, and stir into them gradually six
+table-spoonfuls of line sifted flour. Add by degrees a pint and a half
+of rich milk and some grated nutmeg, and beat it to a smooth batter.
+
+Make your frying-pan very hot, and put into it a piece of butter or
+lard. When it has melted and begins to froth, put in a small ladle-full
+of the batter, drop an oyster in the middle of it, and fry it of a
+light brown. Send them to table hot.
+
+If you find your batter too thin, so that it spreads too much in the
+frying-pan, add a little more flour beaten well into it. If it is too
+thick, thin it with some additional milk.
+
+OYSTER PIE.
+
+Make a puff-paste, in the proportion of a pound and a half of fresh
+butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out rather thick, into
+two sheets. Butter a deep dish, and line the bottom and sides of it
+with paste. Fill it up with crusts of bread for the purpose of
+supporting the lid while it is baking, as the oysters will be too much
+done if they are cooked in the pie. Cover it with the other sheet of
+paste, having first buttered the flat rim of the dish. Notch the edges
+of the pie handsomely, or ornament them with leaves of paste which you
+may form with tin cutters made for the purpose. Make a little slit in
+the middle of the lid, and stick firmly into it a paste tulip or other
+flower. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and while the paste is
+baking prepare the oysters, which should he large and fresh. Put them
+into a stew-pan with half their liquor thickened with yolk of egg
+boiled hard and grated, enriched with pieces of butter rolled in bread
+crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg. Stew the oysters five
+minutes. When the paste is baked, carefully take off the lid, remove
+the pieces of bread, and put in the oysters and gravy. Replace the lid,
+and send the pie to table warm.
+
+TO BOIL A LOBSTER.
+
+Put a handful of salt into a large kettle or pot of boiling water. When
+the water boils very hard put in the lobster, having first brushed it,
+and tied the claws together with a bit of twine. Keep it boiling from
+half an hour to an hour in proportion to its size. If boiled too long
+the meat will be hard and stringy. When it is done, take it out, lay it
+on its claws to drain, and then wipe it dry. Send it to table cold,
+with the body and tail split open, and the claws taken off. Lay the
+large claws next to the body, and the small ones outside. Garnish with
+double parsley.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to mention that the head of a lobster, and
+what are called the lady-fingers are not to be eaten.
+
+TO DRESS LOBSTER COLD.
+
+Put a table-spoonful of cold water on a clean plate and with the back
+of a wooden spoon mash into it the coral or scarlet meat of the
+lobster, adding a salt-spoonful of salt, and about the same quantity of
+cayenne. On another part of the plate mix well together with the back
+of the spoon two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and a tea-spoonful of
+made mustard. Then mix the whole till they are well incorporated and
+perfectly smooth, adding, at the last, three table-spoonfuls of
+vinegar.
+
+This quantity of seasoning is for a small lobster. For a large one,
+more of course will be required. Many persons add a tea-spoonful of
+powdered white sugar, thinking that it gives a mellowness to the whole.
+
+The meat of the body and claws of the lobster must be carefully
+extracted from the shell and minced very small When the dressing is
+smoothly and thoroughly amalgamated mix the meat with it, and let it be
+handed round to the company.
+
+The vinegar from a jar of Indian pickle is by some preferred for
+lobster dressing.
+
+You may dress the lobster immediately _before_ you send it to table.
+When the dressing and meat are mixed together, pile it in a deep dish,
+and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Stick a bunch of the small
+claws in the top, and garnish with curled parsley.
+
+Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being coarse and tough.
+
+STEWED LOBSTER.
+
+Having boiled the lobster, extract the meat from the shell, and cut it
+into very small pieces. Season it with a powdered nutmeg, a few blades
+of mace, and cayenne and salt to your taste. Mix with it a quarter of a
+pound of fresh butter cut small, and two glasses of white wine or of
+vinegar. Put it into a stew-pan, and set it on hot coals. Stew it about
+twenty minutes, keeping the pan closely covered lest the flavour should
+evaporate. Serve it up hot.
+
+If you choose, you can send it to table in the shell, which must first
+be nicely cleaned. Strew the meat over with sifted bread-crumbs, and
+brown the top with a salamander, or a red hot shovel held over it.
+
+FRICASSEED LOBSTER.
+
+Put the lobster into boiling salt and water, and let it boil according
+to its size from a quarter of an hour to half an hour. The intention is
+to have it parboiled only, as it is afterwards to be fricasseed.
+Extract the meat from the shell, and cut it into small pieces. Season
+it with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and put it into a stew-pan with
+as much cream as will cover it. Keep the lid close; set the pan on hot
+coals, and stew it slowly for about as long a time as it was previously
+boiled. Just before you take it from the fire, stir in the beaten yolk
+of an egg. Send it to table in a small dish placed on a larger one, and
+arrange the small claws nicely round it on the large dish.
+
+POTTED LOBSTER.
+
+Parboil the lobster in boiling water well salted. Then pick out all the
+meat from the body and claws, and beat it in a mortar with nutmeg,
+mace, cayenne, and salt, to your taste. Beat the coral separately. Then
+put the pounded meat into a large potting can of block tin with a
+cover. Press it down hard, having arranged it in alternate layers of
+white meat and coral to give it a marbled or variegated appearance.
+Cover it with fresh butter, and put it into a slow oven for half an
+hour. When cold, take off the butter and clarify it, by putting it into
+a jar, which, must be set in a pan of boiling water. Watch it well, and
+when it melts, carefully skim off the buttermilk which will rise to the
+top. When no more scum rises, take it off and let it stand for a few
+minutes to settle, and then strain it through a sieve.
+
+Put the lobster into small potting-cans, pressing it down very hard.
+Pour the clarified butter over it, and secure the covers tightly.
+
+Potted lobster is used to lay between thin slices of bread as
+sandwiches. The clarified butter that accompanies it is excellent for
+fish sauce.
+
+Prawns and crabs may be potted in a similar manner.
+
+LOBSTER PIE.
+
+Put two middle-sized lobsters into boiling salt and water. When they
+are half boiled, take the meat from the shell, cut it into very small
+pieces, and put it into a pie dish. Break up the shells, and stew them
+in a very little water with half a dozen blades of mace and a
+wine-glass of vinegar. Then strain off the liquid. Beat the coral in a
+mortar, and thicken the liquid with it. Pour this into the dish of
+lobster to make the gravy. Season it with cayenne, salt, and mushroom
+catchup, and add bits of butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, made in
+the proportion of half a pound of butter to a pound of flour, notched
+handsomely, and ornamented with paste leaves. Do not send it to table
+till it has cooled.
+
+TO BOIL PRAWNS.
+
+Throw a handful of salt into a pot of boiling water. When it boils very
+hard, put in the prawns. Let them boil a quarter of an hour, and when
+you take them out lay them on a sieve to drain, and then wipe them on a
+dry cloth, and put them aside till quite cold.
+
+Lay a handful of curled parsley in the middle of a dish. Put one prawn
+on the top of it, and lay the others, all round, as close as you can,
+with the tails outside. Garnish with parsley.
+
+Eat them with salt, cayenne, sweet oil, mustard and vinegar, mixed
+together as for lobsters.
+
+CRABS
+
+Crabs are boiled in the same manner, and in serving up may be arranged
+like prawns.
+
+HOT CRABS.
+
+Having boiled the crabs, extract all the meat from the shell, cut it
+fine, and season it to your taste with nutmeg, salt, and cayenne
+pepper. Add a bit of butter, some grated bread crumbs, and sufficient
+vinegar to moisten it. Fill the back-shells of the crab with the
+mixture; set it before the fire, and brown it by holding a red-hot
+shovel or a salamander a little above it.
+
+Cover a large dish, with small slices of dry toast with the crust cut
+off. Lay on each slice a shell filled with the crab. The shell of one
+crab will contain the meat of two.
+
+COLD CRABS.
+
+Having taken all the meat out of the shells, make a dressing with sweet
+oil, salt, cayenne pepper, mustard and vinegar, as for lobster. You may
+add to it some hard-boiled yolk of egg, mashed in the oil. Put the
+mixture into the back shells of the crabs, and serve it up. Garnish
+with the small claws laid nicely round.
+
+SOFT CRABS.
+
+These crabs must be cooked directly, as they will not keep till next
+day.
+
+Remove the spongy substance from each side of the crab, and also the
+little sand-bag. Put some lard into a pan, and when it is boiling hot,
+fry the crabs in it. After you take them out, throw in a handful of
+parsley, and let it crisp; but withdraw it before it loses its colour.
+Strew it over the crabs when you dish them.
+
+Make the gravy by adding cream or rich milk to the lard, with some
+chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Let them all boil together for a few
+minutes, and then serve it up in a sauce-boat.
+
+TERRAPINS.
+
+Have ready a pot of boiling water. When it is boiling very hard put in
+the terrapins, and let them remain in it till quite dead. Then take
+them out, pull off the outer skin and the toe-nails, wash the terrapins
+in warm water and boil them again, allowing a tea-spoonful of salt to
+each terrapin. When the flesh becomes quite tender so that you can
+pinch it off, take them out of the shell, remove the sand-bag, and the
+gall, which you must be careful not to break, as it will make the
+terrapin so bitter as to be uneatable. Cut up all the other parts of
+the inside with the meat, and season it to your taste with black and
+cayenne pepper, and salt. Put all into a stew-pan with the juice or
+liquor that it has given out in cutting up, but not any water. To every
+two terrapins allow a quarter of a pound of butter divided into pieces
+and rolled in flour, two glasses of Madeira, and the yolks of two eggs.
+The eggs must be beaten, and not stirred in till a moment before it
+goes to table. Keep it closely covered. Stew it gently till every thing
+is tender, and serve it up hot in a deep dish.
+
+Terrapins, after being boiled by the cook, may be brought to table
+plain, with all the condiments separate, that the company may dress
+them according to taste.
+
+For this purpose heaters or chafing-dishes must be provided for each
+plate.
+
+PICKLED LOBSTER.
+
+Take half a dozen fine lobsters. Put them into boiling salt and water,
+and when they are all done, take them out and extract all the meat from
+the shells, leaving that of the claws as whole as possible, and cutting
+the flesh of the body into large pieces nearly of the same size. Season
+a sufficient quantity of vinegar very highly with whole pepper-corns,
+whole cloves, and whole blades of mace. Put the pieces of lobster into
+a stew-pan, and pour on just sufficient vinegar to keep them well
+covered. Set it over a moderate fire; and when it has boiled hard about
+five minutes, take out the lobster, and let the pickle boil by itself
+for a quarter of an hour. When the pickle and lobster are both cold,
+put them together into a broad flat stone jar. Cover it closely, and
+set it away in a cool place.
+
+Eat the pickled lobster with oil, mustard, and vinegar, and have bread
+and butter with it.
+
+
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.
+
+
+BEEF.
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+When beef is good, it will have a fine smooth open grain, and it will
+feel tender when squeezed or pinched in your fingers. The lean should
+be of a bright carnation red, and the fat white rather than yellow—the
+suet should be perfectly white. If the lean looks dark or purplish, and
+the fat very yellow, do not buy the meat.
+
+See that the butcher has properly jointed the meat before it goes home.
+For good tables, the pieces generally roasted are the sirloin and the
+fore and middle ribs. In genteel houses other parts are seldom served
+up as _roast-beef_. In small families the ribs are the most convenient
+pieces. A whole sirloin is too large, except for a numerous company,
+but it is the piece most esteemed.
+
+The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs, or from the inner
+part of the sirloin. All other pieces are, for this purpose,
+comparatively hard and tough.
+
+The round is generally corned or salted, and boiled. It is also used
+for the dish called beef à-la-mode.
+
+The legs make excellent soup; the head and tail are also used for that
+purpose.
+
+The tongue when fresh is never cooked except for mince-pies. Corned or
+salted it is seldom liked, as in that state it has a faint sickly taste
+that few persons can relish. But when pickled and afterwards smoked
+(the only good way of preparing a tongue) it is highly and deservedly
+esteemed.
+
+The other pieces of the animal are generally salted and boiled. Or when
+fresh they may be used for soup or stews, if not too fat.
+
+If the state of the weather will allow you to keep fresh beef two or
+three days, rub it with salt, and wrap it in a cloth.
+
+In summer do not attempt to keep it more than twenty-four hours; and
+not then unless you can conveniently lay it in ice, or in a
+spring-house.
+
+In winter if the beef is brought from market frozen, do not cook it
+that day unless you dine very late, as it will be impossible to get it
+sufficiently done—meat that has been frozen requiring double the usual
+time. To thaw it, lay it in cold water, which is the only way to
+extract the frost without injuring the meat. It should remain in the
+water three hours, or more.
+
+TO ROAST BEEF.
+
+The fire should be prepared at least half an hour before the beef is
+put down, and it should be large, steady, clear, and bright, with
+plenty of fine hot coals at the bottom.
+
+The best apparatus for the purpose is the well-known roaster frequently
+called a tin-kitchen.
+
+Wash the meat in cold water, and then wipe it dry, and rub it with
+salt. Take care not to run the spit through the best parts of it. It is
+customary with some cooks to tie blank paper over the fat, to prevent
+it from melting and wasting too fast.
+
+Put it evenly into the roaster, and do not set it too near the fire,
+lest the outside of the meat should be burned before the inside is
+heated.
+
+Put some nice beef-dripping or some lard into the pan or bottom of the
+roaster, and as soon as it melts begin to baste the beef with it;
+taking up the liquid with a long spoon, and pouring it over the meat so
+as to let it trickle down again, into the pan. Repeat this frequently
+while it is roasting; after a while you can baste it with its own fat.
+Turn the spit often, so that the meat may be equally done on all sides.
+
+Once or twice draw back the roaster, and improve the fire by clearing
+away the ashes, bringing forward the hot coals, and putting on fresh
+fuel at the back. Should a coal fall into the dripping-pan take it out
+immediately. An allowance of about twenty minutes to each pound of meat
+is the time commonly given for roasting; but this rule, like most
+others, admits of exceptions according to circumstances. Also, some
+persons like their meat very much done; others prefer it rare, as it is
+called. In summer, meat will roast in a shorter time than in winter.
+
+When the beef is nearly done, and the steam draws towards the fire,
+remove the paper that has covered the fat part, sprinkle on a little
+salt, and having basted the meat well with the dripping, pour off
+nicely (through the spout of the roaster) all the liquid fat from the
+top of the gravy.
+
+Lastly, dredge the meat very lightly with a little flour, and baste it
+with fresh butter. This will give it a delicate froth. To the gravy
+that is now running from the meat add nothing but a tea-cup of boiling
+water. Skim it, and send it to table in a boat. Serve up with the beef
+in a small deep plate, scraped horseradish moistened with vinegar.
+
+Fat meat requires more roasting than lean, and meat that has been
+frozen will take nearly double the usual time.
+
+Basting the meat continually with flour and water is a bad practice, as
+it gives it a coddled parboiled appearance, and diminishes the flavour.
+
+These directions for roasting beef will apply equally to mutton.
+
+Pickles are generally eaten with roast beef. French mustard is an
+excellent condiment for it. In carving begin by cutting a slice from
+the side.
+
+TO SAVE BEEF-DRIPPING.
+
+Pour off through the spout of the roaster or tin-kitchen, all the fat
+from the top of the gravy, after you have done basting the meat with
+it. Hold a little sieve under the spout, and strain the dripping
+through it into a pan. Set it away in a cool place; and next day when
+it is cold and congealed, turn the cake of fat, and scrape with a knife
+the sediment from the bottom. Pat the dripping into a jar; cover it
+tightly, and set it away in the refrigerator, or in the coldest place
+you have. It will be found useful for frying, and for many other
+purposes.
+
+Mutton-dripping cannot be used for any sort of cooking, as it
+communicates to every thing the taste of tallow.
+
+BAKED BEEF.
+
+This is a plain family dish, and is never provided for company.
+
+Take a nice but not a fat piece of fresh beef. Wash it, rub it with
+salt, and place it on a trivet in a deep block tin or iron pan. Pour a
+little water into the bottom, and put under and round the trivet a
+sufficiency of pared potatoes, either white or sweet ones. Put it into
+a hot oven, and let it bake till thoroughly done, basting it frequently
+with its own gravy. Then transfer it to a hot dish, and serve up the
+potatoes in another. Skim the gravy, and send it to table in a boat.
+
+Or you may boil the potatoes, mash them with milk, and put them into
+the bottom of the pan about half an hour before the meat is done
+baking. Press down the mashed potatoes hard with the back of a spoon,
+score them in cross lines over the top, and let them, brown under the
+meat, serving them up laid round it.
+
+Instead of potatoes, you may put in the bottom of the pan what is
+called a Yorkshire pudding, to be baked under the meat.
+
+To make this pudding,—stir gradually four table-spoonfuls of flour into
+a pint of milk, adding a salt-spoon of salt. Beat three eggs very
+light, and mix them gradually with the milk and flour. See that the
+batter is not lumpy. Do not put the pudding under the meat at first, as
+if baked too long it will be hard and solid. After the meat has baked
+till the pan is quite hot and well greased with the drippings, you may
+put in the batter; having continued stirring it till the last moment.
+
+If the pudding is so spread over the pan as to be but an inch thick, it
+will require about two hours baking, and need not be turned. If it is
+thicker than an inch, you must (after it is brown on the top) loosen it
+in the pan, by inserting a knife beneath it, and having cut it across
+into four pieces, turn them all nicely that the other side may be
+equally done. But this pudding is lighter and better if laid so thin as
+not to require turning.
+
+When you serve up the beef lay the pieces of pudding round it, to be
+eaten with the meat.
+
+Veal may be baked in this manner with potatoes or a pudding. Also fresh
+pork.
+
+TO BOIL CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.
+
+The best piece is the round. You may either boil it whole, or divide it
+into two, or even three pieces if it is large, taking care that each
+piece shall have a portion of the fat. Wash it well; and, if very salt,
+soak it in two waters. Skewer it up tightly and in a good compact
+shape, wrapping the flap piece firmly round it. Tie it round with broad
+strong tape, or with a strip of coarse linen. Put it into a large pot,
+and cover it well with water. It will be found a convenience to lay it
+on a fish drainer.
+
+Hang it over a moderate fire that it may heat gradually all through.
+Carefully take off the scum as it rises, and when no more appears, keep
+the pot closely covered, and let it boil slowly and regularly, with the
+fire at an equal temperature. Allow three hours and a half to a piece
+weighing about twelve pounds, and from that to four or five hours in
+proportion to the size. Turn the meat twice in the pot while it is
+boiling. Put in some carrots and turnips about two hours after the
+meat. Many persons boil cabbage in the same pot with the beef, but it
+is a much nicer way to do the greens in a separate vessel, lest they
+become saturated with the liquid fat. Cauliflower or brocoli (which are
+frequent accompaniments to corned beef) should never be boiled with it.
+
+Wash the cabbage in cold water, removing the outside leaves, and
+cutting the stalk close. Examine all the leaves carefully, lest insects
+should be lodged among them. If the cabbage is large, divide it into
+quarters. Put it into a pot of boiling water with a handful of salt,
+and boil it till the stalk is quite tender. Half an hour will generally
+be sufficient for a small young cabbage; an hour for a large full-grown
+one. Drain it well before you dish it. If boiled separately from the
+meat, have ready some melted butter to eat with it.
+
+Should you find the beef under-done, you may reboil it next day;
+putting it into boiling-water and letting it simmer for half an hour or
+more, according to its size.
+
+Cold corned beef will keep very well for some days wrapped in several
+folds of a thick linen cloth, and set away in a cool dry place.
+
+In carving a round of beef, slice it horizontally and very thin. Do not
+help any one to the outside pieces, as they are generally too hard and
+salt. French mustard is very nice with corned beef. [Footnote: French
+mustard is made of the very best mustard powder, diluted with vinegar,
+and flavoured with minced tarragon leaves, and a minced clove of
+garlic; all mixed with a wooden spoon.]
+
+This receipt will apply equally to any piece of corned beef, except
+that being less solid than the round, they will, in proportion to their
+weight, require rather less time to boil.
+
+In dishing the meat, remove the wooden skewers and substitute plated or
+silver ones.
+
+Many persons think it best (and they are most probably right) to stew
+corned beef rather than to boil it. If you intend to stew it, put no
+more water in the pot than will barely cover the meat, and keep it
+gently simmering over a slow fire for four, five, or six hours,
+according to the size of the piece.
+
+TO BROIL BEEF-STEAKS.
+
+The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs or from the inside of
+the sirloin. All other parts are for this purpose comparatively hard
+and tough.
+
+They should be cut about three quarters of an inch thick, and, unless
+the beef is remarkably fine and tender, the steaks will be much
+improved by beating them on both sides with a steak mallet, or with a
+rolling-pin. Do not season them till you take them from the fire.
+
+Have ready on your hearth a fine bed of clear bright coals, entirely
+free from smoke and ashes. Set the gridiron over the coals in a
+slanting direction, that the meat may not be smoked by the fat dropping
+into the fire directly under it. When the gridiron is quite hot, rub
+the bars with suet, sprinkle a little salt over the coals, and lay on
+the steaks. Turn them frequently with a pair of steak-tongs, or with a
+knife and fork. A quarter of an hour is generally sufficient time to
+broil & beef-steak. For those who like them under-done or rare, ten or
+twelve minutes will be enough.
+
+When the fat blazes and smokes very much as it drips into the fire,
+quickly remove the gridiron for a moment, till the blaze has subsided.
+After they are browned, cover the upper side of the steaks with an
+inverted plate or dish to prevent the flavour from evaporating. Rub a
+dish with a shalot or small onion, and place it near the gridiron and
+close to the fire, that it may be well heated. In turning the steak
+drop the gravy that may be standing on it into this dish, to save it
+from being lost. When the steaks are done, sprinkle them with a little
+salt and pepper, and lay them in a hot dish, putting on each a piece of
+fresh butter. Then, if it is liked, season them with, a very little raw
+shalot, minced as finely as possible, and moistened with a spoonful of
+water; and stir a tea-spoonful of catchup into the gravy. Send the
+steaks to table very hot, in a covered dish. You may serve up with them
+onion sauce in a small tureen.
+
+Pickles are frequently eaten with beef-steaks.
+
+Mutton chops may be broiled in the same manner.
+
+TO FRY BEEF-STEAKS.
+
+Beef-steaks for frying should be cut thinner than for broiling. Take
+them from the ribs or sirloin, and remove the bone. Beat them to make
+them tender. Season them with salt and pepper.
+
+Put some fresh butter, or nice beef-dripping into a frying pan, and
+hold it over a clear bright fire till it boils and has done hissing.
+Then put in the steaks, and (if you like them) some sliced onions. Fry
+them about a quarter of an hour, turning them frequently. Steaks, when
+fried, should be thoroughly done. After they are browned, cover them
+with a large plate to keep in the juices,
+
+Have ready a hot dish, and when they are done, take out the steaks and
+onions and lay them in it with another dish on the top, to keep them
+hot while you give the gravy in the pan another boil up over the fire.
+You may add to it a spoonful of mushroom catchup. Pour the gravy over
+the steakes, and send them to table as hot as possible.
+
+Mutton chops may be fried in this manner.
+
+BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.
+
+For a small pudding take a pound of fresh beef suet. Clear it from the
+skin and the stringy fibres, and mince it as finely as possible. Sift
+into a large pan two pounds of fine flour, and add the suet gradually,
+rubbing it fine with your hands and mixing it thoroughly. Then pour in,
+by degrees, enough of cold water to make a stiff dough. Roll it out
+into a large even sheet. Have ready about a pound and a half of the
+best beef-steak, omitting the bone and fat which should be all cut off.
+Divide the steak into small thin pieces, and beat them well to make
+them tender. Season them with pepper and salt, and, if convenient, add
+some mushrooms. Lay the beef in the middle of the sheet of paste, and
+put on the top a bit of butter rolled in flour. Close the paste nicely
+over the meat as if you were making a large dumpling. Dredge with flour
+a thick square cloth, and tie the pudding up in it, leaving space for
+it to swell. Fasten the string very firmly, and stop up with flour the
+little gap at the tying-place so that no water can get in. Have ready a
+large pot of boiling water. Put the pudding into it, and let it boil
+fast three hours or more. Keep up a good fire under it, as if it stops
+boiling a minute the crust will be heavy. Have a kettle of boiling
+water at the fire to replenish the pot if it wastes too much. Do not
+take up the pudding till the moment before it goes to table. Mix some
+catchup with the gravy on your plate.
+
+For a large pudding you must have two pounds of suet, three pounds of
+flour, and two pounds and a half of meat. It must boil at least five
+hours.
+
+All the fat must be removed from the meat before it goes into the
+pudding, as the gravy cannot be skimmed when enclosed in the crust.
+
+You may boil in the pudding some potatoes cut into slices.
+
+A pudding of the lean of mutton chops may be made in the same manner;
+also of venison steaks.
+
+A BEEF-STEAK PIE.
+
+Make a good paste in the proportion of a pound of butter to two pounds
+of sifted flour. Divide it in half, and line with one sheet of it the
+bottom and sides of a deep dish, which must first be well buttered.
+Have ready two pounds of the best beef-steak, cut thin, and well
+beaten; the bone and fat being omitted. Season it with pepper and salt.
+Spread a layer of the steak at the bottom of the pie, and on it a layer
+of sliced potato, and a few small bits of butter rolled in flour. Then
+another layer of meat, potato, &c., till the dish is full. You may
+greatly improve the flavour by adding mushrooms, or chopped clams or
+oysters, leaving out the hard parts. If you use clams or oysters,
+moisten the other ingredients with a little of their liquor. If not,
+pour in, at the last, half a pint of cold water, or less if the pie is
+small. Cover the pie with the other sheet of paste as a lid, and notch
+the edges handsomely, having reserved a little of the paste to make a
+flower or tulip to stick in the slit at the top. Bake it in a quick
+oven an hour and a quarter, or longer, in proportion to its size. Send
+it to table hot.
+
+You may make a similar pie of mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or venison
+steaks, always leaving out the bone and fat.
+
+Many persons in making pies stew the meat slowly in a little water till
+about half done, and they then put it with its gravy into the paste and
+finish by baking. In this case add no water to the pie, as there will
+be already sufficient liquid If you half-stew the meat, do the potatoes
+with it.
+
+A-LA-MODE BEEF.
+
+Take the bone out of a round of fresh beef, and beat the meat well all
+over to make it tender. Chop and mix together equal quantities of sweet
+marjoram and sweet basil, the leaves picked from the stalks and rubbed
+fine. Chop also some small onions or shalots, and some parsley; the
+marrow from the bone of the beef; and a quarter of a pound, or more of
+suet. Add two penny rolls of stale bread grated; and pepper, salt, and
+nutmeg to your taste. Mix all these ingredients well, and bind them
+together with the beaten yolks of four eggs. Fill with this seasoning
+the place from whence you took out the bone; and rub what is left of it
+all over the outside of the meat. You must, of course, proportion the
+quantity of stuffing to the size of the round of beef. Fasten it well
+with skewers, and tie it round firmly with a piece of tape, so as to
+keep it compact and in good shape. It is best to prepare the meat the
+day before it is to be cooked.
+
+Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of bacon. Lay the beef upon
+them, and cover the top of the meat with more slices of bacon. Place
+round it four large onions, four carrots, and four turnips, all cut in
+thick slices. Pour in from half a pint to a pint of water, and if
+convenient, add two calves’ feet cut in half. Cover the pan closely,
+set it in an oven and let it bake for at least six hours; or seven or
+eight, according to the size.
+
+When it is thoroughly done, take out the beef and lay it on a dish with
+the vegetables round it. Remove the bacon and calves’ feet, and (having
+skimmed the fat from the gravy carefully) strain it into a small
+sauce-pan; set it on hot coals, and stir into it a tea-cupful of port
+wine, and the same quantity of pickled mushrooms. Let it just come to a
+boil, and then send it to table in a sauce-tureen.
+
+If the beef is to be eaten cold, you may ornament it as follows:— Glaze
+it all over with beaten white of egg. Then cover it with a coat of
+boiled potato grated finely. Have ready some slices of cold boiled
+carrot, and also of beet-root. Cut them into the form of stars or
+flowers, and arrange them handsomely over the top of the meat by
+sticking them on the grated potato. In the centre place a large bunch
+of double parsley, interspersed with flowers cut out of raw turnips,
+beets, and carrots, somewhat in imitation of white and red roses, and
+marygolds. Fix the flowers on wooden skewers concealed with parsley.
+
+Cold à-la-mode beef prepared in this manner will at a little distance
+look like a large iced cake decorated with sugar flowers.
+
+You may dress a fillet of veal according to this receipt. Of course it
+will require less time to stew.
+
+TO STEW BEEF.
+
+Take a good piece of fresh beef. It must not be too fat. Wash it, rub
+it with salt, and put it into a pot with barely sufficient water to
+cover it. Set it over a slow fire, and after it has stewed an hour, put
+in some potatoes pared and cut in half, and some parsnips, scraped and
+split. Let them stew with the beef till quite tender. Turn the meat
+several times in the pot. When all is done, serve up the meat and
+vegetables together, and the gravy in a boat, having first skimmed it.
+
+This is a good family dish.
+
+You may add turnips (pared and sliced) to the other vegetables.
+
+Fresh pork may be stewed in this manner, or with sweet potatoes.
+
+
+TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF.
+
+Trim off some pieces from a round of fresh beef—take out the bone and
+break it. Put the bone and the trimmings into a pan with some cold
+water, and add an onion, a carrot, and a turnip all cut in pieces, and
+a bunch, of sweet herbs. Simmer them for an hour, and having skimmed it
+well, strain off the liquid. Season the meat highly with what is called
+kitchen pepper, that is, a mixture, in equal quantities, of black or
+white pepper, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg, all finely
+powdered. Fasten it with skewers, and tie it firmly round with tape.
+Lay skewers in the bottom of the stew-pan; place the beef upon them,
+and then pour over it the gravy you have prepared from the bone and
+trimmings. Simmer it about an hour and a half, and then turn the meat
+over, and add to it three carrots, three turnips, and two onions all
+sliced, and a glass of tarragon vinegar. Keep the lid close, except
+when you are skimming off the fat. Let the meat stew till it is
+thoroughly done and tender throughout. The time will depend on the size
+of the round. It may require from five or six to eight hours.
+
+Just before you take it up, stir into the gravy a table-spoonful or two
+of mushroom catchup, a little made mustard, and a piece of butter
+rolled in flour.
+
+Send it to table hot, with the gravy poured round it.
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF,
+
+Take a round of fresh beef (or the half of one if it is very large) and
+remove the bone. The day before you cook it, lay it in a pickle made of
+equal proportions of water and vinegar with salt to your taste. Next
+morning take it out of the pickle, put it into a large pot or stew-pan,
+and just cover it with water. Put in with it two or three large onion a
+few cloves, a little whole black pepper, and a large glass of port or
+claret. If it is a whole round of beef allow two glasses of wine. Stew
+it slowly for at least four hours or more, in proportion to its size.
+It must be thoroughly done, and tender all through. An hour before you
+send it to table take the meat out of the pot, and pour the gravy into
+a pan. Put a large lump of butter into the pot, dredge the beef with
+flour, and return it to the pot to brown, turning it often to prevent
+its burning. Or it will be better to put it into a Dutch oven. Cover
+the lid with hot coals, renewing them as they go out. Take the gravy
+that you poured from the meat, and skim off all the fat. Put it into a
+sauce-pan, and mix with it a little butter rolled in flour, and add
+some more cloves and wine. Give it a boil up. If it is not well
+browned, burn some sugar on a hot shovel, and stir it in.
+
+If you like it stuffed, have ready when you take the meat out of the
+pickle, a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, sweet herbs, butter,
+spice, pepper and salt, and minced parsley, mixed with beaten yolk of
+egg. Fill with this the opening from whence you took the bone, and bind
+a tape firmly round the meat.
+
+BEEF BOUILLI.
+
+Take part of a round of fresh beef (or if you prefer it a piece of the
+flank or brisket) and rub it with salt. Place skewers in the bottom of
+the stew-pot, and lay the meat upon them with barely water enough to
+cover it. To enrich the gravy you may add the necks and other trimmings
+of whatever poultry you may happen to have; also the root of a tongue,
+if convenient. Cover the pot, and set it over a quick fire. When it
+boils and the scum has risen, skim it well, and then diminish the fire
+so that the meat shall only simmer; or you may set the pot on hot
+coals. Then put in four or five carrots sliced thin, a head of celery
+cut up, and four or fire sliced turnips. Add a bunch of sweet herbs,
+and a small table-spoonful of black pepper-corns tied in a thin muslin
+rag. Let it stew slowly for four or fire hours, and then add a dozen
+very small onions roasted and peeled, and a large table-spoonful of
+capers or nasturtians. You may, if you choose, stick a clove in each
+onion. Simmer it half an hour longer, then take up the meat, and
+place-it in a dish, laying the vegetables round it. Skim and strain the
+gravy; season it with catchup, and made mustard, and serve it up in a
+boat. Mutton may be cooked in this manner.
+
+HASHED BEEF.
+
+Take some roast beef that has been very much under-done, and having cut
+off the fat and skin, put the trimmings with the bones broken up into a
+stew-pan with two large onions sliced, a few sliced potatoes, and a
+bunch of sweet herbs. Add about a pint of warm water, or broth if you
+have it. This is to make the gravy. Cover it closely, and let it simmer
+for about an hour. Then skim and strain it, carefully removing every
+particle of fat.
+
+Take another stew-pot, and melt in it a piece of butter, about the size
+of a large walnut. When it has melted, shake in a spoonful of flour.
+Stir it a few minutes, and then add to it the strained gravy. Let it
+come to a boil, and then put to it a table-spoonful of catchup, and the
+beef cut either in thin small slices or in mouthfuls. Let it simmer
+from five to ten minutes, but do not allow it to boil, lest (having
+been cooked already) it should become tasteless and insipid. Serve it
+up in a deep dish with thin slices of toast cut into triangular or
+pointed pieces, the crust omitted. Dip the toast in the gravy, and lay
+the pieces in regular order round the sides of the dish.
+
+You may hash mutton or veal in the same manner, adding sliced carrots,
+turnips, potatoes, or any vegetables you please. Tomatas are an
+improvement.
+
+To hash cold meat is an economical way of using it; but there is little
+or no nutriment in it after being twice cooked, and the natural flavour
+is much impaired by the process.
+
+Hashed meat would always be much better if the slices were cut from the
+joint or large piece as soon as it leaves the table, and soaked in the
+gravy till next day.
+
+BEEF CAKES.
+
+Take some cold roast beef that has been under-done, and mince it very
+fine. Mix with it grated bread crumbs, and a little chopped onion and
+parsley. Season it with pepper and salt, and moisten it with some
+beef-dripping and a little walnut or onion pickle. Some scraped cold
+tongue or ham will be found an improvement. Make it into broad flat
+cakes, and spread a coat of mashed potato thinly on the top and bottom
+of each. Lay a small bit of butter on the top of every cake, and set
+them in an oven to warm and brown.
+
+Beef cakes are frequently a breakfast dish.
+
+Any other cold fresh meat may be prepared in the same manner.
+
+Cold roast beef may be cut into slices, seasoned with salt and pepper,
+broiled a few minutes over a clear fire, and served up hot with a
+little butter spread on them.
+
+TO ROAST A BEEF’S HEART.
+
+Cut open the heart, and (having removed the ventricles) soak it in cold
+water to free it from the blood, Parboil it about ten minutes. Prepare,
+a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, butter or minced suet, sweet
+marjoram and parsley chopped fine, a little grated lemon-peel, nutmeg,
+pepper, and salt to your taste, and some yolk of egg to bind the
+ingredients. Stuff the heart with the force-meat, and secure the
+opening by tying a string around it. Put it on a spit, and roast it
+till it is tender throughout.
+
+Add to the gravy a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a glass of red
+wine. Serve up the heart very hot in a covered dish. It chills
+immediately.
+
+Eat currant jelly with it.
+
+Boiled beef’s heart is frequently used in mince pies.
+
+TO STEW A BEEF’S HEART.
+
+Clean the heart, and cut it lengthways into large pieces. Put them into
+a pot with a little salt and pepper, and cover them with cold water.
+Parboil them for a quarter of an hour, carefully skimming off the blood
+that rises to the top. Then take them out, cut them, into mouthfuls,
+and having strained the liquid, return them to it, adding a head or two
+of chopped celery, a few sliced onions, a dozen potatoes pared and
+quartered, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Season with whole
+pepper, and a few cloves if you like. Let it stew slowly till all the
+pieces of heart and the vegetables are quite tender.
+
+You may stew a beef’s kidney in the same manner.
+
+The heart and liver of a calf make a good dish cooked as above.
+
+
+TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.
+
+Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cut
+it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine. Dust it with flour. Put some
+butter into a stew-pan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put in
+the minced kidney. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle on
+a little salt and cayenne pepper, and pour in a very little boiling
+water. Add a glass of champagne or other wine, or a large tea-spoonful
+of mushroom catchup, or of walnut pickle. Cover the pan closely, and
+let it stew till the kidney is tender. Send it to table hot in a
+covered dish. It is eaten generally at breakfast.
+
+TO BOIL TRIPE.
+
+Wash it well in warm water, and trim it nicely, taking off all the fat.
+Cut it into small pieces, and put it on to boil five hours before
+dinner, in water enough to cover it very well. After it has boiled four
+hours, pour off the water, season the tripe with pepper and salt, and
+put it into a pot with milk and water mixed in equal quantities. Boil
+it an hour in the milk and water.
+
+Boil in a sauce-pan ten or a dozen onions. When they are quite soft,
+drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe out your sauce-pan and
+put them on again, with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a
+wine-glass of cream or milk. Let them boil up, and add them to the
+tripe just before you send it to table. Eat it with pepper, vinegar,
+and mustard.
+
+TRIPE AND OYSTERS.
+
+Having boiled the tripe in milk and water, for four or five hours till
+it is quite tender, gut it up into small pieces. Put it into a stew-pan
+with just milk enough to cover it, and a few blades of mace. Let it
+stew about five minutes, and then put in the oysters, adding a large
+piece of butter rolled-in flour, and salt and cayenne pepper to your
+taste. Let it stew five minutes longer, and then send it to table in a
+tureen; first skimming off whatever fat may float on the surface.
+
+TO FRY TRIPE.
+
+Boil the tripe the day before, till it is quite tender, which it will
+not be in less than four or five hours. Then cover it and set it away.
+Next day cut it into long slips, and dip each piece into beaten yolk of
+egg, and afterwards roll them in grated bread crumbs. Have ready in a
+frying-pan over the fire, some good beef-dripping. When it is boiling
+hot put in the tripe, and fry it about ten minutes, till of a light
+brown.
+
+You may serve it up with onion sauce.
+
+Boiled tripe that has been left from the dinner of the preceding day
+may be fried in this manner.
+
+PEPPER POT.
+
+Take four pounds of tripe, and four ox feet. Put them into a large pot
+with as much water as will cover them, some whole pepper, and a little
+salt. Hang them over the fire early in the morning. Let them boil
+slowly, keeping the pot closely covered. When the tripe is quite
+tender, and the ox feet boiled to pieces, take them out, and skim the
+liquid and strain it. Then cut the tripe into small pieces; put it back
+into the pot, and pour the soup or liquor over it. Have ready some
+sweet herbs chopped fine, some sliced onions, and some sliced potatoes.
+Make some small dumplings with flour and batter. Season the vegetables
+well with pepper and salt, and put them into the pot. Have ready a
+kettle of boiling water, and pour on as much as will keep the
+ingredients covered while boiling, but take care not to weaken the
+taste by putting too much water. Add a large piece of butter rolled in
+flour, and lastly put in the dumplings. Let it boil till all the things
+are thoroughly done, and then serve it up in the tureen.
+
+TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE.
+
+In buying dried tongues, choose those that are thick and plump, and
+that have the smoothest skins. They are the most likely to be young and
+tender.
+
+A smoked tongue should soak in cold water at least all night. One that
+is very hard and dry will require twenty-four hours’ soaking. When you
+boil it put it into a pot full of cold water. Set it over a slow fire
+that it may heat gradually for an hour before it comes to a boil. Then
+keep it simmering from three and a half to four hours, according to its
+size and age. Probe it with a fork, and do not take it up till it is
+tender throughout. Send it to table with mashed potato laid round it,
+and garnish with parsley. Do not split it in half when you dish it, as
+is the practice with some cooks. Cutting it lengthways spoils the
+flavour, and renders it comparatively insipid.
+
+If you wish to serve up the tongue very handsomely, rub it with yolk of
+egg after you take it from the pot, and strew over it grated bread
+crumbs; baste it with butter, and set it before the fire till it
+becomes of a light brown. Cover the root (which is always an unsightly
+object) with thick sprigs of double parsley; and (instead of mashed
+potato) lay slices of currant jelly all round the tongue.
+
+TO BOIL A SALTED OR PICKLED TONGUE.
+
+Put it into boiling water, and let it boil three hours or more,
+according to its size. When you take it out peel and trim it, and send
+it to table surrounded with mashed potato, and garnished with sliced
+carrot.
+
+TO CORN BEEF.
+
+Wash the beef well, after it has lain awhile in cold water. Then drain
+and examine it, take out all the kernels, and rub it plentifully with
+salt. It will imbibe the salt more readily after being washed. In cold
+weather warm the salt by placing it before the fire. This will cause it
+to penetrate the meat more thoroughly.
+
+In summer do not attempt to corn any beef that has not been fresh
+killed, and even then it will not keep more than a day and a half or
+two days. Wash and dry it, and rub a great deal of salt well into it.
+Cover it carefully, and keep it in a cold dry cellar.
+
+Pork is corned in the same manner.
+
+TO PICKLE BEEF OR TONGUES.
+
+The beef must be fresh killed, and of the best kind. You must wipe
+every piece well, to dry it from the blood and moisture. To fifty
+pounds of meat allow two pounds and a quarter of coarse salt, two
+pounds and a quarter of fine salt, one ounce and a half of saltpetre,
+one pound and a half of brown sugar, and one quart of molasses. Mix all
+these ingredients well together, boil and skim it for about twenty
+minutes, and when no more scum rises, take it from the fire. Have ready
+the beef in a large tub, or in a barrel; pour the brine gradually upon
+it with a ladle, and as it cools rub it well into every part of the
+meat. A molasses hogshead sawed in two is a good receptacle for pickled
+meat. Cover it well with a thick cloth, and look at it frequently,
+skimming off whatever may float on the top, and basting the meat with
+the brine. In about a fortnight the beef will be fit for use.
+
+Tongues may be put into the same cask with the beef, one or two at a
+time, as you procure them from the butcher. None of them will be ready
+for smoking in less than six weeks; but they had best remain in pickle
+two or three months. They should not be sent to the smoke-house later
+than March. If you do them at home, they will require three weeks’
+smoking over a wood fire. Hang them with the root or large end upwards.
+When done, sew up each tongue tightly in coarse linen, and hang them up
+in a dark dry cellar.
+
+Pickled tongues without smoking are seldom liked.
+
+The last of October is a good time for putting meat into pickle. If the
+weather is too warm or too cold, it will not take the salt well.
+
+In the course of the winter the pickle may probably require a second
+boiling with additional ingredients.
+
+Half an ounce of pearl-ash added to the other articles will make the
+meat more tender, but many persons thinks it injures the taste.
+
+The meat must always be kept completely immersed in the brine. To
+effect this a heavy board should be laid upon it.
+
+DRIED OR SMOKED BEEF.
+
+The best part for this purpose is the round, which you must desire the
+butcher to cut into four pieces. Wash the meat and dry it well in a
+cloth. Grind or beat to powder an equal quantity of cloves and
+allspice, and having mixed them together, rub them well into the beef
+with your hand. The spice will be found a great improvement both to the
+taste and smell of the meat. Have ready a pickle made precisely as that
+in the preceding article. Boil and skim it, and (the meat having been
+thoroughly rubbed all over with the spice) pour on the pickle, as
+before directed. Keep the beef in the pickle at least six weeks, and
+then smoke it about three weeks.
+
+Smoked beef is brought on the tea-table either shaved into thin chips
+without cooking, or chipped and fried with a little butter in a
+skillet, and served up hot.
+
+This receipt for dried or smoked beef will answer equally well for
+venison ham, which is also used as a relish at the tea-table.
+
+Mutton hams may be prepared in the same way.
+
+POTTED BEEF.
+
+Take a good piece of a round of beef, and cut off all the fat. Rub the
+lean well with salt, and let it lie two days. Then put it into a jar,
+and add to it a little water in the proportion of half a pint to three
+pounds of meat. Cover the jar as closely as possible, (the best cover
+will be a coarse paste or dough) and set it in a slow oven, or in a
+vessel of boiling water for about four hours. Then drain off all the
+gravy and set the meat before the fire that all the moisture may be
+drawn out. Pull or cut it to pieces and pound it for a long time in a
+mortar with pepper, allspice, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and oiled fresh
+butter, adding these ingredients gradually, and moistening it with a
+little of the gravy. You must pound it to a fine paste, or till it
+becomes of the consistence of cream, cheese.
+
+Put it into potting cans, and cover it an inch thick with fresh butter
+that has been melted, skimmed, and strained. Tie a leather over each
+pot, and keep them closely covered. Set them in a dry place.
+
+Game and poultry may be potted in this manner
+
+
+
+
+VEAL.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+The fore-quarter of a calf comprises the neck, breast, and shoulder:
+the hind-quarter consists of the loin, fillet, and knuckle. Separate
+dishes are made of the head, heart, liver, and sweet-bread. The flesh
+of good veal is firm and dry, and the joints stiff. The lean is of a
+very light delicate red, and the fat quite white. In buying the head
+see that the eyes look full, plump, and lively; if they are dull and
+sunk the calf has been killed too long. In buying calves’ feet for
+jelly or soup, endeavour to get those that have been singed only and
+not skinned; as a great deal of gelatinous substance is contained in
+the skin. Veal should always be thoroughly cooked, and never brought to
+table rare or under-done, like beef or mutton. The least redness in the
+meat or gravy is disgusting.
+
+Veal suet may be used as a substitute for that of beef; also
+veal-dripping.
+
+TO ROAST A LOIN OF VEAL.
+
+The loin is the best part of the calf. It is always roasted. See that
+your fire is clear and hot, and broad enough to brown both ends. Cover
+the fat of the kidney and the back with paper to prevent it from
+scorching. A large loin of veal will require _at least_ four hours and
+a half to roast it sufficiently. At first set the roaster at a
+tolerable distance from the fire that the meat may heat gradually in
+the beginning; afterwards place it nearer. Put a little salt and water
+into the dripping-pan and baste the meat with it till the gravy begins
+to drop. Then baste with the gravy. When the meat is nearly done, move
+it close to the fire, dredge it with a very little flour, and baste it
+with butter. Skim the fat from the gravy, which should be thickened by
+shaking in a very small quantify of flour. Put it into a small
+sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. Let it just come to a boil, and
+then send it to table in a boat. If the gravy is not in sufficient
+quantity, add to it about half a jill or a large wine-glass of boiling
+water.
+
+In carving a loin of veal help every one to a piece of the kidney as
+far as it will go.
+
+TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL.
+
+A breast of veal will require about three hours and a half to roast. In
+preparing it for the spit, cover it with the caul, and skewer the
+sweet-bread to the back. Take off the caul when the meat is nearly
+done. The breast, being comparatively tough and coarse, is less
+esteemed than the loin and the fillet.
+
+TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+Take out the bone, and secure with skewers the fat flap to the outside
+of the meat. Prepare a stuffing of fresh butter or suet minced fine,
+and an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs, a large table-spoonful of
+grated lemon-peel, a table-spoonful of sweet marjoram chopped or rubbed
+to powder, a nutmeg grated, and a little pepper and salt, with a sprig
+of chopped parsley. Mix all these ingredients with beaten yolk of egg,
+and stuff the place from whence the bone was taken. Make deep cuts or
+incisions all over the top of the veal, and fill them with some of the
+stuffing. You may stick into each hole an inch of fat ham or salt pork,
+cut very thin.
+
+Having papered the fat, spit the veal and put it into the roaster,
+keeping it at first not too near the fire. Put a little salt and water
+into the dripping-pan, and for awhile baste the meat with it. Then
+baste it with its own gravy. A fillet of veal will require four hours
+roasting. As it proceeds, place it nearer to the fire. Half an hour
+before it is done, remove the paper, and baste the meat with butter,
+having first dredged it very lightly with flour. Having skimmed the
+gravy, mix some thin melted butter with it.
+
+If convenient, you may in making the stuffing, use a large proportion
+of chopped mushrooms that have been preserved in sweet oil, or of
+chopped pickled oysters. Cold ham shred fine will improve it.
+
+You may stuff a fillet of veal entirely with sausage meat.
+
+To accompany a fillet of veal, the usual dish is boiled ham or bacon.
+
+A shoulder of veal may be stuffed and roasted in a similar manner.
+
+TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.
+
+Divide the breast into pieces according to the position of the bones.
+Put them into a stew-pan with a few slices of ham, some whole pepper, a
+bunch of parsley, and a large onion quartered. Add sufficient water to
+keep it from burning, and let it stew slowly till the meat is quite
+tender. Then put to it a quart or more of green peas that have boiled
+twenty minutes in another pot, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
+Let all stew together a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it up, with
+the veal in the middle, the peas round it, and the ham laid on the
+peas.
+
+You may stew a breast of veal with tomatas.
+
+TO STEW A FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+Take a fillet of veal, rub it with salt, and then with a sharp knife
+make deep incisions all over the surface, the bottom as well as the top
+and sides. Make a stuffing of grated stale bread, butter, chopped sweet
+marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper and salt, mixed up with
+beaten yolk of egg to bind and give it consistency. Fill the holes or
+incisions with the stuffing, pressing it down well with your fingers.
+Reserve some of the stuffing to rub all over the outside of the meat.
+Have ready some very thin slices of cold boiled ham, the fatter the
+better. Cover the veal with them, fastening them on with skewers. Put
+it into a pot, and stew it slowly in a very little water, just enough
+to cover it. It will take at least five hours to stew; or more, in
+proportion to its size. When done, take off the ham, and lay it round
+the veal in a dish.
+
+You may stew with it a quart or three pints of young green peas, put in
+about an hour before dinner; add to them a little butter and pepper
+while they are stewing. Serve them up in the dish with the veal, laying
+the slices of ham upon them.
+
+If you omit the ham, stew the veal entirely in lard.
+
+TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
+
+Lay four wooden skewers across the bottom of your stew-pan, and place
+the meat upon them; having first carefully washed it, and rubbed it
+with salt. Add a table-spoonful of whole pepper, the leaves from a
+bunch of sweet marjoram, a bunch of parsley leaves chopped, two onions
+peeled and sliced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour in two
+quarts of water. Cover it closely, and after it has come to a boil,
+lessen the fire, and let the meat only simmer for two hours or more.
+Before you serve it up, pour the liquid over it.
+
+This dish will be greatly improved by stewing with it a few slices of
+ham, or the remains of a cold ham.
+
+Veal when simply boiled is too insipid. To stew it is much better.
+
+VEAL CUTLETS.
+
+The best cutlets are those taken from the leg or fillet. Cut them about
+half an inch thick, and as large as the palm of your hand. Season them
+with pepper and salt. Grate some stale bread, and rub it through a
+cullender, adding to it chopped sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, and
+some powdered mace or nutmeg. Spread the mixture on a large flat dish.
+Have ready in a pan some beaten egg. First dip each cutlet into the
+egg, and then into the seasoning on the dish, seeing that a sufficient
+quantity adheres to both sides of the meat. Melt in your frying-pan,
+over a quick fire, some beef-dripping, lard, or fresh butter, and when
+it boils lay your cutlets in it, and fry them thoroughly; turning them
+on both sides, and taking care that they do not burn. Place them in a
+covered dish near the fire, while you finish the gravy in the pan, by
+first skimming it, and then shaking in a little flour and stirring it
+round. Pour the gravy hot round the cutlets, and garnish with little
+bunches of curled parsley.
+
+You may mix with the bread crumbs a little saffron.
+
+VEAL STEAKS.
+
+Cut a neck of veal into thin steaks, and beat them to make them tender.
+For seasoning, mix together some finely chopped onion sprinkled with
+pepper and salt, and a little chopped parsley. Add some butter, and put
+it with the parsley and onion into a small sauce-pan, and set it on hot
+coals to stew till brown. In the mean, time, put the steaks on a hot
+gridiron (the bars of which have been rubbed with suet) and broil them
+well, over a bed of bright clear coals. When sufficiently done on one
+side turn them on the other. After the last turning, cover each steak
+with some of the seasoning from the sauce-pan, and let all broil
+together till thoroughly done.
+
+Instead of the onions and parsley, you may season the veal steaks with
+chopped mushrooms, or with chopped oysters, browned in butter.
+
+Have ready a gravy made of the scraps and trimmings of the veal,
+seasoned with pepper and salt, and boiled in a little hot water in the
+same sauce-pan in which the parsley and onions have been previously
+stewed. Strain the gravy when it has boiled long enough, and flavour it
+with catchup.
+
+MINCED VEAL.
+
+Take some cold veal, cut it into slices, and mince it very finely with
+a chopping-knife. Season it to your taste with pepper, salt, sweet
+marjoram rubbed fine, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg. Put the bones and
+trimmings into a sauce-pan with a little water, and simmer them over
+hot coals to extract the gravy from them. Then put the minced veal into
+a stew-pan, strain the gravy over it, add a piece of butter rolled in
+flour, and a little milk or cream. Let it all simmer together till
+thoroughly warmed, but do not allow it to boil lest the meat having
+been once cooked already, should become tasteless. When you serve it
+up, have ready some three-cornered pieces of bread toasted and
+buttered; place them all round the inside of the dish.
+
+Or you may cover the mince with a thick layer of grated bread,
+moistened with a little butter, and browned on the top with a
+salamander, or a red hot shovel.
+
+VEAL PATTIES.
+
+Mince very fine a pound of the lean of cold roast veal, and half a
+pound of cold boiled ham, (fat and lean equally mixed.) Put it into a
+stew-pan with three ounces of butter divided into bits and rolled in
+flour, a jill of cream, and a jill of veal gravy. Season it to your
+taste with cayenne pepper and nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and
+lemon-juice. Set the pan on hot coals, and let the ingredients simmer
+till well warmed, stirring them well to prevent their burning.
+
+Have ready baked some small shells of puff-paste. Fill them with the
+mixture, and eat the patties either warm or cold.
+
+VEAL PIE.
+
+Take two pounds of veal cut from the loin, fillet, or the best end of
+the neck. Remove the bone, fat, and skin, and put them into a sauce-pan
+with half a pint of water to stew for the gravy. Make a good paste,
+allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of flour. Divide it into two
+pieces, roll it out rather thick and cover with one piece the sides and
+bottom of a deep dish. Put in a layer of veal, seasoned with pepper and
+salt, then a layer of cold ham sliced thin, then more veal, more ham,
+and so on till the dish is full; interspersing the meat with yolks of
+eggs boiled hard. If you can procure some small button mushrooms they
+will be found an improvement. Pour in, at the last, the gravy you have
+drawn from the trimmings, and put on the lid of the pie, notching the
+edge handsomely, and ornamenting the centre with a flower made of
+paste. Bake the pie at least two hours and a half.
+
+You may make a very plain veal pie simply of veal chops, sliced onions,
+and potatoes pared and quartered. Season with pepper and salt, and fill
+up the dish with water.
+
+CALF’S HEAD DREST PLAIN
+
+Wash the head in warm water. Then lay it in clean hot water and let it
+soak awhile. This will blanch it. Take out the brains and the black
+part of the eyes. Tie the head in a cloth, and put it into a large
+fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water, and add some salt to throw up
+the scum, which must be taken off as it rises. Let the head boil gently
+about three hours.
+
+Put eight or ten sage leaves, and as much parsley, into a small
+sauce-pan with a little water, and boil them half an hour. Then chop
+them fine, and set them ready on a plate. Wash the brains well in two
+warm waters, and then soak them for an hour in a basin of cold water
+with a little salt in it. Remove the skin and strings, and then put the
+brains into a stew-pan with plenty of cold water, and let them boil
+gently for a quarter of an hour, skimming them well. Take them out,
+chop them, and mix them with the sage and parsley leaves, two
+table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and the yolks of four hard-boiled
+eggs, and pepper and salt to your taste. Then put the mixture into a
+sauce-pan and set it on coals to warm.
+
+Take up the head when it is sufficiently boiled, score it in diamonds,
+brush it all over with beaten egg, and strew it with a mixture of
+grated bread-crumbs, and chopped sage and parsley. Stick a few bits of
+butter over it, and set it in a Dutch oven to brown. Serve it up with
+the brains laid round it. Or you may send to table the brains and the
+tongue in a small separate dish, having first trimmed the tongue and
+cut off the roots. Have also parsley-sauce in a boat. You may garnish
+with very thin small slices of broiled ham, curled up.
+
+If you get a calf’s head with the hair on, sprinkle it all over with
+pounded rosin, and dip it into boiling water. This will make the hairs
+scrape off easily.
+
+CALF’S HEAD HASHED.
+
+Take a calf’s head and a set of feet, and boil them until tender,
+having first removed the brains. Then cut the flesh off the head and
+feet in slices from the bone, and put both meat and bones into a
+stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, some sliced onions, and pepper
+and salt to your taste; also a large piece of butter rolled in flour,
+and a little water. After it has stewed awhile slowly till the flavour
+is well extracted from the herbs and onions, take out the meat, season
+it a little with cayenne pepper, and lay it in a dish. Strain the gravy
+in which it was stewed, and stir into it two glasses of madeira, and
+the juice and grated peel of a lemon. Having poured some of the gravy
+over the meat, lay a piece of butter on the top, set it in an oven and
+bake it brown.
+
+In the mean time, having cleaned and washed the brains (skinning them
+and removing the strings) parboil them in a sauce-pan, and then make
+them into balls with chopped sweet herbs, grated bread-crumbs, grated
+lemon-peel, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Fry them in lard and butter
+mixed; and send them to table laid round the meat (which should have
+the tongue placed on the top) and garnish with sliced lemon. Warm the
+remaining gravy in a small sauce-pan on hot coals, and stir into it the
+beaten yolk of an egg a minute before you take it from the fire. Send
+it to table in a boat.
+
+CHITTERLINGS OR CALF’S TRIPE.
+
+See that the chitterlings are very nice and white. Wash them, cut them
+into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with pepper and salt to your
+taste, and about two quarts of water. Boil them two hours or more. In
+the mean time, peel eight or ten white onions, and throw them whole
+into a sauce-pan with plenty of water. Boil them slowly till quite
+soft; then drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe out your
+sauce-pan, and put in the mashed onions with a piece of butter, two
+table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, some nutmeg, and a very little
+salt. Sprinkle in a little flour, set the pan on hot coals (keeping it
+well covered) and give it one boil up.
+
+When the chitterlings are quite tender all through, take them up and
+drain them. Place in the bottom of a dish a slice or two of buttered
+toast with all the crust cut off. Lay the chitterlings on the toast,
+and send them to table with the stewed onions in a sauce-boat. When you
+take the chitterlings on your plate season them with pepper and
+vinegar.
+
+This, if properly prepared, is a very nice dish.
+
+TO FRY CALF’S FEET.
+
+Having first boiled them till tender, cut them in two, and (having
+taken out the large bones) season the feet with pepper and salt, and
+dredge them well with flour. Strew some chopped parsley or sweet
+marjoram over them, and fry them of a light brown in lard or butter.
+Serve them up with parsley-sauce.
+
+TO FRY CALF’S LIVER.
+
+Cut the liver into thin slices. Season it with pepper, salt, chopped
+sweet herbs, and parsley. Dredge it with flour, and fry it brown in
+lard or dripping. See that it is thoroughly done before you send it to
+table. Serve it up with its own gravy.
+
+Some slices of cold boiled ham fried with it will be found an
+improvement.
+
+You may dress a calf’s heart in the same manner.
+
+LARDED CALF’S LIVER.
+
+Take a calf’s liver and wash it well. Cut into long slips the fat of
+some bacon or salt pork, and insert it all through the surface of the
+liver by means of a larding-pin. Put the liver into a pot with a
+table-spoonful of lard, a little water, and a few tomatas, or some
+tomata catchup; adding one large or two small onions minced fine, and
+some sweet marjoram leaves rubbed very fine. The sweet marjoram will
+crumble more easily if you first dry it before the fire on a plate.
+
+Having put in all these ingredients, set the pot on hot coals in the
+corner of the fire-place, and keep it stewing, regularly and slowly,
+for four hours. Send the liver to table with the gravy round it.
+
+TO ROAST SWEET-BREADS.
+
+Take four fine sweet-breads, and having trimmed them nicely, parboil
+them, and then lay them in a pan of cold water till they become cool.
+Afterwards dry them in a cloth. Put some butter into a sauce-pan, set
+it on hot coals, and melt and skim it. When it is quite clear, take it
+off. Have ready some beaten egg in one dish, and some grated
+bread-crumbs in another. Skewer each sweet-bread, and fasten them on a
+spit. Then glaze them all over with egg, and sprinkle them with
+bread-crumbs. Spread on some of the clarified butter, and then another
+coat of crumbs. Roast them before a clear fire, at least a quarter of
+an hour. Have ready some nice veal gravy flavoured with lemon-juice,
+and pour it round the sweet-breads before you send them to table.
+
+LARDED SWEET-BREADS.
+
+Parboil three or four of the largest sweet-breads you can get. This
+should be done as soon as they are brought in, as few things spoil more
+rapidly if not cooked at once. When half boiled, lay them in cold
+water. Prepare a force-meat of grated bread, lemon-peel, butter, salt,
+pepper, and nutmeg mixed with beaten yolk of egg. Cut open the
+sweet-breads and stuff them with it, fastening them afterwards with a
+skewer, or tying them round with packthread. Have ready some slips of
+bacon-fat, and some slips of lemon-peel cut about the thickness of very
+small straws. Lard the sweet-breads with them in alternate rows of
+bacon and lemon-peel, drawing them through with a larding-needle. Do it
+regularly and handsomely. Then put the sweet-breads into a Dutch oven,
+and bake them brown. Serve them up with veal gravy flavoured with a
+glass of Madeira, and enriched with beaten yolk of egg stirred in at
+the last.
+
+MARBLED VEAL.
+
+Having boiled and skinned two fine smoked tongues, cut them to pieces
+and pound them to a paste in a mortar, moistening them with plenty of
+butter as you proceed. Have ready an equal quantity of the lean of veal
+stewed and cut into very small pieces. Pound the veal also in a mortar,
+adding butter to it by degrees. The tongue and veal must be kept
+separate till both have been pounded. Then fill your potting cans with
+lumps of the veal and tongue, pressed down hard, and so placed, that
+when cut, the mixture will look variegated or marbled. Close the cans
+with veal; again press it down very hard, and finish by pouring on
+clarified butter. Cover the cans closely, and keep them in a dry place.
+It maybe eaten at tea or supper. Send it to table cut in slices.
+
+You may use it for sandwiches.
+
+
+
+
+MUTTON AND LAMB.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+The fore-quarter of a sheep contains the neck, breast, and shoulder;
+and the hind-quarter the loin and leg. The two loins together are
+called the chine or saddle. The flesh of good mutton is of a bright
+red, and a close grain, and the fat firm and quite white. The meat will
+feel tender and springy when you squeeze it with your fingers. The vein
+in the neck of the fore-quarter should be of a fine blue.
+
+Lamb is always roasted; generally a whole quarter at once. In carving
+lamb, the first thing done is to separate the shoulder from the breast,
+or the leg from the loin.
+
+If the weather is cold enough to allow it, mutton is more tender after
+being kept a few days.
+
+TO ROAST MUTTON.
+
+Mutton should be roasted with a quick brisk fire. Every part should be
+trimmed off that cannot be eaten. Wash the meat well. The skin should
+be taken off and skewered on again before the meat is put on the spit;
+this will make it more juicy. Otherwise tie paper over the fat, having
+soaked the twine in water to prevent the string from burning. Put a
+little salt and water into the dripping-pan, to baste the meat at
+first, then use its own gravy for that purpose. A quarter of an hour
+before you think it will be done, take off the skin or paper, dredge
+the meat very lightly with flour, and baste it with butter. Skim the
+gravy and send it to table in a boat. A leg of mutton will require from
+two hours roasting to two hours and a half in proportion to its size. A
+chine or saddle, from two hours and a half, to three hours. A shoulder,
+from an hour and a half, to two hours. A loin, from an hour and three
+quarters, to two hours. A haunch (that is a leg with, part of the loin)
+cannot be well roasted in less than four hours.
+
+Always have some currant jelly on the table to eat with roast mutton.
+It should also be accompanied by mashed turnips.
+
+Slices cut from a cold leg of mutton that has been under-done, are very
+nice broiled or warmed on a gridiron, and sent to the breakfast table
+covered with currant jelly.
+
+Pickles are always eaten with mutton.
+
+In preparing a leg of mutton for roasting, you may make deep incisions
+in it, and stuff them with chopped oysters, or with a force-meat made
+in the usual manner; or with chestnuts parboiled and peeled. The gravy
+will be improved by stirring into it a glass of port wine.
+
+TO BOIL MUTTON.
+
+To prepare a leg of mutton for boiling, wash it clean, cut a small
+piece off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put it into a pot with
+water enough to cover it, and boil it gently for three hours, skimming
+it well. Then take it from the fire, and keeping the pot well covered,
+let it finish by remaining in the steam for ten or fifteen minutes.
+Serve it up with a sauce-boat of melted butter into which a tea-cup
+full of capers or nasturtians have been stirred.
+
+Have mashed turnips to eat with it.
+
+A few small onions boiled in the water with the mutton are thought by
+some to improve the flavour of the meat. It is much better when
+sufficient time is allowed to boil or simmer it slowly.
+
+A neck or a loin of mutton will require also about three hours slow
+boiling. These pieces should on no account be sent to table the least
+under-done. Serve up with them carrots and whole turnips. You may add a
+dish of suet dumplings to eat with the meat, made of finely chopped
+suet mixed with double its quantity of flour, and a little cold water.
+
+MUTTON CHOPS.
+
+Take chops or steaks from a loin of mutton, cut off the bone close to
+the meat, and trim off the skin, and part of the fat. Beat them to make
+them tender, and season them with pepper and salt. Make your gridiron
+hot over a bed of clear bright coals; rub the bars with suet, and lay
+on the chops. Turn them frequently; and if the fat that falls from them
+causes a blaze and smoke, remove the gridiron for a moment till it is
+over. When they are thoroughly done, put them into a warm dish and
+butter them. Keep them covered till a moment before they are to be
+eaten.
+
+When the chops have been turned for the last time, you may strew over
+them some finely minced onion moistened with boiling water, and
+seasoned with pepper.
+
+Some like them flavoured with mushroom catchup.
+
+Another way of dressing mutton chops is, after trimming them nicely and
+seasoning them with pepper and salt, to lay them for awhile in melted
+butter. When they have imbibed a sufficient quantity, take them out,
+and cover them all over with grated bread-crumbs. Broil them over a
+clear fire, and see that the bread does not burn.
+
+CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON.
+
+Cut a neck of mutton into steaks with a bone in each; trim them nicely,
+and scrape clean the end of the bone. Flatten them with a rolling pin,
+or a meat beetle, and lay them in oiled butter. Make a seasoning of
+hard-boiled yolk of egg and sweet-herbs minced small, grated bread,
+pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and, if you choose, a little minced onion.
+Take the chops out of the butter, and cover them with the seasoning.
+Butter some half sheets of white paper, and put the cutlets into them,
+so as to be entirely covered, securing the paper with pins or strings;
+and twisting them nicely round the bone. Heat your gridiron over some
+bright lively coals. Lay the cutlets on it, and broil them about twenty
+minutes. The custom of sending them to table in the papers had best be
+omitted, as (unless managed by a French cook) these envelopes, after
+being on the gridiron, make a very bad appearance.
+
+Serve them up hot, with mushroom sauce in a boat, or with a brown
+gravy, flavoured with red wine. You may make the gravy of the bones and
+trimmings, stewed in a little water, skimmed well, and strained when
+sufficiently stewed. Thicken it with flour browned in a Dutch oven, and
+add a glass of red wine.
+
+You may bake these cutlets in a Dutch oven without the papers. Moisten
+them frequently with a little oiled butter.
+
+STEWED MUTTON CHOPS.
+
+Cut a loin or neck of mutton into chops, and trim away the fat and
+bones. Beat and flatten them. Season them with pepper and salt, and put
+them into a stew-pan, with barely sufficient water to cover them, and
+some sliced carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, and a bunch of sweet
+herbs, or a few tomatas. Let the whole stew slowly about three hours,
+or till every thing is tender. Keep the pan closely covered, except
+when you are skimming it.
+
+Send it to table with sippets or three-cornered pieces of toasted
+bread, lain all round the dish.
+
+HASHED MUTTON.
+
+Cut into small pieces the lean of some cold mutton that has been
+under-done, and season it with pepper and salt. Take the bones and
+other trimmings, put them into a sauce-pan with as much water as will
+cover them, and some sliced onions, and let them stew till you have
+drawn from them a good gravy. Having skimmed it well, strain the gravy
+into a stew-pan, and put the mutton into it. Have ready-boiled some
+carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. Slice them, and add them to the
+meat and gravy. Set the pan on hot coals, and let it simmer till the
+meat is warmed through, but do not allow it to boil, as it has been
+once cooked already. Cover the bottom of a dish with slices of buttered
+toast. Lay the meat and vegetables upon it, and pour over them the
+gravy.
+
+Tomatas will be found an improvement.
+
+If green peas, or Lima beans are in season, you may boil them, and put
+them to the hashed mutton; leaving out the other vegetables, or serving
+them up separately.
+
+A CASSEROLE OF MUTTON.
+
+Butter a deep dish or mould, and line it with potatoes mashed with milk
+or putter, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Fill it with slices of
+the lean of cold mutton, or lamb, seasoned also. Cover the whole with
+more mashed potatoes. Put it into an oven, and bake it till the meat is
+thoroughly warmed, and the potatoes brown. Then carefully turn it out
+on a large dish; or you may, if more convenient, send it to table in
+the dish it was baked in.
+
+MUTTON HARICO.
+
+Take a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, and fry them brown. Then put
+them into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves,
+a little mace, and pepper and salt to your taste. Cover them with
+boiling water, and let them stew slowly for about an hour. Then cut
+some carrots and turnips into dice; slice some onions, and cut up a
+head of celery; put them all into the stew-pan, and keep it closely
+covered except when you are skimming off the fat. Let the whole stew
+gently for an hour longer, and then send it to table in a deep dish,
+with the gravy about it.
+
+You may make a similar harico of veal steaks, or of beef cut very thin.
+
+STEWED LEG OF MUTTON.
+
+Take a leg of mutton and trim it nicely. Put it into a pot with three
+pints of water; or with two pints of water and one quart of gravy drawn
+from bones, trimmings, and coarse pieces of meat. Add some slices of
+carrots, and a little salt. Stew it slowly three hours. Then put in
+small onions, small turnips, tomatas or tomata catchup, and shred or
+powdered sweet marjoram to your taste, and let it stew three hours
+longer. A large leg will require from first to last from six hours and
+a half to seven hours stewing. But though it must be tender and well
+done all through, do not allow it to stew to rags. Serve it up with the
+vegetables and gravy round it. Have mashed potatoes in another dish.
+
+TO ROAST LAMB.
+
+The best way of cooking lamb is to roast it; when drest otherwise it is
+insipid, and not so good as mutton. A hind-quarter of eight pounds will
+be done in about two hours; a fore-quarter of ten pounds, in two hours
+and a half; a leg of five pounds will take from an hour and a quarter
+to an hour and a half; a loin about an hour and a half. Lamb, like veal
+and pork, is not eatable unless thoroughly done; no one preferring it
+rare, as is frequently the case with beef and mutton.
+
+Wash the meat, wipe it dry, spit it, and cover the fat with paper.
+Place it before a clear brisk fire. Baste it at first with a little
+salt and water, and then with its own drippings. Remove the paper when
+the meat is nearly done, and dredge the lamb with a little flour.
+Afterwards baste it with butter. Do not take it off the spit till you
+see it drop white gravy.
+
+Prepare some mint sauce by stripping from the stalks the leaves of
+young green mint, mincing them very fine, and mixing them with vinegar
+and sugar. There must be just sufficient vinegar to moisten the mint,
+but not enough to make the sauce liquid. Send it to table in a boat,
+and the gravy in another boat. Garnish with sliced lemon.
+
+In carving a quarter of lamb, separate the shoulder from the breast, or
+the leg from the ribs, sprinkle a little salt and pepper, and squeeze
+on some lemon juice.
+
+It should be accompanied by asparagus, green peas, and lettuce.
+
+
+
+
+PORK, HAM, ETC.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+In cutting up pork, you have the spare-rib, shoulder, griskin or chine,
+the loin, middlings and leg; the head, feet, heart and liver. On the
+spare-rib and chine there is but little meat, and the pieces called
+middlings consist almost entirely of fat. The best parts are the loin,
+and the leg or hind-quarter. Hogs make the best pork when from two and
+a half to four years old. They should be kept up and fed with corn at
+least six weeks before they are killed, or their flesh will acquire a
+disagreeable taste from the trash and offal which they eat when running
+at large. The Portuguese pork, which is fed on chestnuts, is perhaps
+the finest in the world.
+
+If the meat is young, the lean will break on being pinched, and the
+skin will dent by nipping it with the fingers; the fat will be white,
+soft, and pulpy. If the skin or rind is rough, and cannot he nipped, it
+is old.
+
+Hams that have short shank-bones, are generally preferred. If you put a
+knife under the bone of a ham, and it comes out clean, the meat is
+good; but quite the contrary if the knife appears smeared and slimy. In
+good bacon the fat is white, and the lean sticks close to the bone; if
+it is streaked with yellow, the meat is rusty, and unfit to eat.
+
+Pork in every form should be thoroughly cooked. If the least
+under-done, it is disgusting and unwholesome.
+
+TO ROAST A PIG.
+
+Begin your preparations by making the stuffing. Take a sufficient
+quantity of grated stale bread, and mix it with sage and sweet marjoram
+rubbed fine or powdered; also some grated lemon-peel. Season it with
+pepper, salt, powdered nutmeg and mace; mix in butter enough to moisten
+it, and some beaten yolk of egg to bind it. Let the whole be very well
+incorporated.
+
+The pig should be newly killed, (that morning if possible,) nicely
+cleaned, fat, and not too large. Wash it well in cold water, and cut
+off the feet close to the joints, leaving some skin all round to fold
+over the ends. Take out the liver and heart, and reserve them, with the
+feet, to make the gravy. Truss back the legs. Fill the body with the
+stuffing (it must be quite full) and then sew it up, or tie it round
+with a buttered twine. Put the pig on the spit, and place it before a
+clear brisk fire, but not too near lest it scorch. The fire should be
+largest at the ends, that the middle of the pig may not be done before
+the extremities. If you find the heat too great in the centre, you may
+diminish it by placing a flat-iron before the fire. When you first put
+it down, wash the pig all over with salt and water; afterwards rub it
+frequently with a feather dipped in sweet oil, or with fresh butter
+tied in a rag. If you baste it with any thing else, or with its own
+dripping, the skin will not be crisp. Take care not to blister or burn
+the outside by keeping it too near the fire. A good sized pig will
+require at least three hours’ roasting.
+
+Unless a pig is very small it is seldom sent to table whole. Take the
+spit from the fire, and place it across a large dish: then, having cut
+off the head with a sharp knife, and cut down the back, slip the spit
+out. Lay the two halves of the body close together in the dish, and
+place half the head on each side. Garnish with sliced lemon.
+
+For the gravy,—take, that from the dripping-pan and skim it well.
+Having boiled the heart, liver, and feet, with some minced sage in a
+very little water, cut the meat from the feet, and chop it. Chop also
+the liver and heart. Put all into a small sauce-pan, adding a little of
+the water that they were boiled in, and some bits of butter rolled in
+flour. Flavour it with a glass of Madeira, and some grated nutmeg. Give
+it a boil up, and send it to table in a gravy-boat.
+
+You may serve up with the pig, apple-sauce, cranberry sauce, or
+bread-sauce in a small tureen; or currant jelly.
+
+If you bake the pig instead of roasting it, rub it from time to time
+with fresh butter tied in a rag.
+
+TO ROAST A LEG OF PORK.
+
+Take a sharp knife and score the skin across in narrow stripes (you may
+cross it again so as to form diamonds) and rub in some powdered sage.
+Raise the skin at the knuckle, and put in a stuffing of minced onion
+and sage, bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg. Fasten it
+down with a buttered string, or with skewers. You may make deep
+incisions in the meat of the large end of the leg, and stuff them also;
+pressing in the filling very hard. Rub a little sweet oil all over the
+skin with a brush or a goose feather, to make it crisp and of a
+handsome brown. Do not place the spit too near the fire, lest the skin
+should burn and blister. A leg of pork will require from three to four
+hours to roast. Moisten it all the time by brushing it with sweet oil,
+or with fresh butter tied in a rag. To baste it with its own dripping
+will make the skin tough and hard. Skim the fat carefully from the
+gravy, which should be thickened with a little flour.
+
+A roast leg of pork should always be accompanied by apple-sauce, and by
+mashed potato and mashed turnips.
+
+TO ROAST A LOIN OF PORK.
+
+Score the skin in narrow strips, and rub it all over with a mixture of
+powdered sage leaves, pepper and salt. Have ready a force-meat or
+stuffing of minced onions and sage, mixed with a little grated bread
+and beaten yolk of egg, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Make deep
+incisions between the ribs and fill them with this stuffing. Put it on
+the spit before a clear fire and moisten it with butter or sweet oil,
+rubbed lightly over it. It will require three hours to roast.
+
+Having skimmed the gravy well, thicken it with a little flour, and
+serve it up in a boat. Have ready some apple-sauce to eat with the
+pork. Also mashed turnips and mashed potatoes.
+
+You may roast in the same manner, a shoulder, spare-rib, or chine of
+pork; seasoning it with sage and onion.
+
+TO ROAST A MIDDLING OR SPRING PIECE OF PORK.
+
+Make a force-meat of grated bread, and minced onion and sage, pepper,
+salt, and beaten yolk of egg; mix it well, and spread it all over the
+inside of the pork. Then roll up the meat, and with a sharp knife score
+it round in circles, rubbing powdered sage into the cuts. Tie a
+buttered twine round the roll of meat so as to keep it together in
+every direction. Put a hook through one end, and roast the pork before
+a clear brisk fire, moistening the skin occasionally with butter. Or
+you may bake it in a Dutch oven. It is a good side dish. Thicken the
+gravy with a little flour, and flavour it with a glass of wine. Have
+currant jelly to eat with it.
+
+It should be delicate young pork.
+
+TO STEW PORK.
+
+Take a nice piece of the fillet or leg of fresh pork; rub it with a
+little salt, and score the skin. Put it into a pot with sufficient
+water to cover it, and stew it gently for two hours or more, in
+proportion to its size. Then put into the same pot a dozen or more
+sweet potatoes, scraped, split, and cut in pieces. Let the whole stew
+gently together for an hour and a half, or till all is thoroughly done,
+skimming it frequently. Serve up all together in a large dish.
+
+This stew will be found very good. For sweet potatoes you may
+substitute white ones mixed with sliced turnips, or parsnips scraped or
+split.
+
+TO BOIL CORNED PORK.
+
+Take a nice piece of fresh pork, (the leg is the best,) rub it with
+salt, and let it lie in the salt two days. Boil it slowly in plenty of
+water, skimming it well. When the meat is about half done, you may put
+into the same pot a fine cabbage, washed clean and quartered. The pork
+and the cabbage should be thoroughly done, and tender throughout. Send
+them to table in separate dishes, having drained and squeezed all the
+water out of the cabbage. Take off the skin of the pork, and touch the
+outside at intervals with spots of cayenne pepper. Eat mustard with it.
+
+Pork is never boiled unless corned or salted.
+
+PICKLED PORK AND PEASE PUDDING.
+
+Soak the pork all night in cold water, and wash and scrape it clean.
+Put it on early in the day, as it will take a long time to boil, and
+must boil slowly. Skim it frequently. Boil in a separate pot greens or
+cabbage to eat with it; also parsnips and potatoes.
+
+Pease pudding is a frequent accompaniment to pickled pork, and is very
+generally liked. To make a small pudding, you must have ready a quart
+of dried split pease, which have been soaked all night in cold water.
+Tie them in a cloth, (leaving room for them to swell,) and boil them
+slowly till they are tender. Drain them, and rub them through a
+cullender or a sieve into a deep dish; season them with pepper and
+salt, and mix with them an ounce of butter, and two beaten eggs. Beat
+all well together till thoroughly mixed. Dip a clean cloth in hot
+water, sprinkle it with flour, and put the pudding into it. Tie it up
+very tightly, leaving a small space between the mixture and the tying,
+(as the pudding will still swell a little,) and boil it an hour longer.
+Send it to table and eat it with the pork.
+
+You may make a pease pudding in a plain and less delicate way, by
+simply seasoning the pease with pepper and salt, (having first soaked
+them well,) tying them in a cloth, and putting them to boil in the same
+pot with the pork, taking care to make the string very tight, so that
+the water may not get in. When all is done, and you turn out the
+pudding, cut it into thick slices and lay it round the pork.
+
+Pickled pork is frequently accompanied by dried beans and hominy.
+
+
+PORK AND BEANS.
+
+Allow two pounds of pickled pork to two quarts of dried beans. If the
+meat is very salt put it in soak over night. Put the beans into a pot
+with cold water, and let them hang all night over the embers of the
+fire, or set them in the chimney corner, that they may warm as well as
+soak. Early in the morning rinse them through a cullender. Score the
+rind of the pork, (which should not be a very fat piece,) and put the
+meat into a clean pot with the beans, which must be seasoned with
+pepper. Let them boil slowly together for about two hours, and
+carefully remove all the scum and fat that rises to the top. Then take
+them out; lay the pork in a tin pan, and cover the meat with the beans,
+adding a very little water. Put it into an oven, and bake it four
+hours.
+
+This is a homely dish, but is by many persons much liked. It is
+customary to bring it to table in the pan in which it is baked.
+
+PORK STEAKS.
+
+Pork steaks or chops should be taken from the neck, or the loin. Cut
+them about half an inch thick, remove the skin, trim them neatly, and
+beat them. Season them with pepper, salt, and powdered sage-leaves or
+sweet marjoram, and broil them over a clear fire till quite done all
+through, turning them once. They require much longer broiling than
+beef-steaks of mutton chops. When you think they are nearly done, take
+up one on a plate and try it. If it is the least red inside, return it
+to the gridiron. Have ready a gravy made of the trimmings, or any
+coarse pieces of pork stewed in a little water with chopped onions and
+sage, and skimmed carefully. When all the essence is extracted, take
+out the bits of meat, &c., and serve up the gravy in a boat to eat with
+the steaks.
+
+They should be accompanied with apple-sauce.
+
+PORK CUTLETS.
+
+Cut them from the leg, and remove the skin; trim them and beat them,
+and sprinkle on salt and pepper. Prepare some beaten egg in a pan; and
+on a flat dish a mixture of bread-crumbs, minced onion, and sage. Put
+some lard or drippings into a frying-pan over the fire; and when it
+boils, put in the cutlets; having dipped every one first in the egg,
+and then in the seasoning. Fry them twenty or thirty minutes, turning
+them often. After you have taken them out of the frying-pan, skim the
+gravy, dredge in a little flour, give it one boil, and then pour it on
+the dish round the cutlets.
+
+Have apple-sauce to eat with them.
+
+Pork cutlets prepared in this manner may be stewed instead of being
+fried. Add to them a little water, and stew them slowly till thoroughly
+done, keeping them closely covered except when you remove the lid to
+skim them.
+
+PORK PIE.
+
+Take the lean of a leg or loin of fresh pork, and season it with
+pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish,
+with, a good paste, made with a pound of butter to two pounds of flour,
+and rolled out thick. Put in a layer of pork, and then a layer of
+pippin apples, pared, cored, and cut small. Strew over the apples
+sufficient sugar to make them very sweet. Then place another layer of
+pork, and so on till the dish is full. Pour in half a pint or more of
+water, or of white wine. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste, and
+notch and ornament it according to your taste.
+
+Set it in a brisk oven, and bake it well.
+
+HAM PIE.
+
+Cover the sides and bottom of a dish with a good pasts rolled out
+thick. Have ready some slices of cold boiled ham, about half an inch
+thick, some eggs boiled hard and sliced, and a large young fowl cleaned
+and Cut up. Put a layer of ham at the bottom, then the fowl, then the
+eggs, and then another layer of ham. Shake on some pepper, and pour in
+some water, or what will be much better, some veal gravy. Cover the pie
+with a crust, notch and ornament it, and bake it well.
+
+Some mushrooms will greatly improve it.
+
+Small button mushrooms will keep very well in a bottle of sweet
+oil—first peeling the skin, and cutting off the stalks.
+
+HAM SANDWICHES
+
+Cut some thin slices of bread very neatly, having slightly buttered
+them; and, if you choose, spread on a very little mustard. Have ready
+some very thin slices of cold boiled ham, and lay one between two
+slices of bread. You may either roll them up, or lay them flat on the
+plates. They are used at supper, or at luncheon.
+
+You may substitute for the ham, cold smoked tongue, shred or grated.
+
+BROILED HAM.
+
+Cut the ham into very thin slices, (the thinner the better.) Soak them
+in hot water at least half an hour, (a whole hour is better,) to draw
+out some of the salt; changing the water several times, and always
+pouring it on scalding hot. This process will not only extract the
+superfluous salt (which would otherwise ooze out in broiling and remain
+sticking about the surface of the meat) but it makes the ham more
+tender and mellow. After soaking, dry the slices in a cloth, and then
+heat your gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire.
+
+If you have cold boiled ham, it is better for broiling than that which
+is raw; and being boiled, will require no soaking before you put it on
+the gridiron.
+
+If you wish to serve up eggs with the ham, put some lard into a very
+clean frying-pan, and make it boiling hot. Break the eggs separately
+into a saucer, that in case a bad one should be among them it may not
+mix with the rest. Slip each egg gently into the frying-pan. Do not
+turn them while they are frying, but keep pouring some of the hot lard
+over them with an iron spoon; this will do them sufficiently on the
+upper side. They will be done enough in about three minutes; the white
+must retain its transparency so that the yolk will be seen through it.
+When done, take them up with a tin slice, drain off the lard, and if
+any part of the white is discoloured or ragged, trim it off. Lay a
+fried egg upon each slice of the broiled ham, and send them to table
+hot.
+
+This is a much nicer way than the common practice of frying the ham or
+bacon with the eggs. Some persons broil or fry the ham without eggs,
+and send it to table cut into little slips or mouthfuls.
+
+To curl small pieces of ham for garnishing, slice as thin as possible
+some that has been boiled or parboiled. The pieces should be about two
+inches square. Roll it up round little wooden skewers, and put it into
+a cheese toaster, or into a tin oven, and set it before the fire for
+eight or ten minutes. When it is done, slip out the skewers.
+
+TO BOIL A HAM.
+
+Hams should always be soaked in water previous to boiling, to draw out
+a portion of the salt, and to make them tender. They will soften more
+easily if soaked in lukewarm water. If it is a new ham, and not very
+salt or hard, you need not put it in water till the evening before you
+intend to cook it. An older one will require twenty-four hours’
+soaking; and one that is very old and hard should be kept in soak two
+or three days, frequently changing the water, which must be soft. Soak
+it in a tub, and keep it well covered. When you take it out of the
+water to prepare it for boiling, scrape and trim it nicely, and pare
+off all the bad looking parts.
+
+Early in the morning put it into a large pot or kettle with plenty of
+cold water. Place it over a slow fire that it may heat gradually; it
+should not come to a boil in less than an hour and a half, or two
+hours. When it boils, quicken the fire, and skim the pot carefully.
+Then simmer it gently four or fire hours or more, according to its
+size. A ham weighing fifteen pounds should simmer five hours after it
+has come to a boil. Keep the pot well skimmed.
+
+When it is done, take it up, carefully strip off the skin, and reserve
+it to cover the ham when it is put away cold. Rub the ham all over with
+some beaten egg, and strew on it fine bread-raspings shaken through the
+lid of a dredging box. Then place it in an oven to brown and crisp, or
+on a hot dish set over the pot before the fire. Cut some writing paper
+into a handsome fringe, and twist it round the shank-bone before you
+send the ham to table. Garnish the edge of the dish with little piles
+or spots of rasped crust of bread.
+
+In carving a ham, begin not quite in the centre, but a little nearer to
+the hock. Cut the slices very thin. It is not only a most ungenteel
+practice to cut ham in thick slices, but it much impairs the flavour.
+
+When you put it away after dinner, skewer on again the skin. This will
+make it keep the better.
+
+Ham should always be accompanied by green vegetables, such as
+asparagus, peas, beans, spinach, cauliflower, brocoli, &c.
+
+Bacon also should be well soaked before it is cooked; and it should be
+boiled very slowly, and for a long time. The greens may be boiled with
+the meat. Take care to skim the pot carefully, and to drain and squeeze
+the greens very well before you send them to table. If there are yellow
+streaks in the lean of the bacon, it is rusty, and unfit to eat.
+
+TO ROAST A HAM.
+
+Take a very fine ham (a Westphalia one if you can procure it) and soak
+it in lukewarm water for a day or two, changing the water frequently.
+The day before you intend cooking it, take the ham out of the water,
+and (having removed the skin) trim it nicely, and pour over it a bottle
+of Madeira or sherry. Let it steep till next morning, frequently during
+the day washing the wine over it. Put it on the spit in time to allow
+at least six hours for slowly roasting it. Baste it continually with
+hot water. When it is done, dredge it all over with fine bread-raspings
+shaken on through the top of the dredging box; and set it before the
+fire to brown.
+
+For gravy, take the wine in which the ham was steeped, and add to it
+the essence or juice which flowed from the meat when taken from the
+spit. Squeeze in the juice of two lemons. Put it into a sauce-pan, and
+boil and skim it. Send it to table in a boat. Cover the shank of the
+ham (which should have been sawed short) with bunches of double
+parsley, and ornament it with a cluster of flowers cut out with a
+penknife from raw carrots, beets, and turnips; and made to imitate
+marygolds, and red and white roses.
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR CURING HAM OR BACON.
+
+Ham or bacon, however well cured, will never be good unless the pork of
+which it is made has been properly fed. The hogs should be well
+fattened on corn, and fed with it about eight weeks, allowing ten
+bushels to each hog. They are best for curing when from two to four
+years old, and should not weigh more than one hundred and fifty or one
+hundred and sixty pounds. The first four weeks they may be fed on mush,
+or on Indian meal moistened with water; the remaining four on corn
+unground; giving them always as much as they will eat. Soap-suds may be
+given to them three or four times a week; or oftener if convenient.
+
+When killed and cut up, begin immediately to salt them. Rub the outside
+of each ham with a tea-spoonful of powdered saltpetre, and the inside
+with a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Having mixed together brown
+sugar and fine salt, in the proportion of a pound and a half of brown
+sugar to a quart of salt, rub the pork well with it. This quantity of
+sugar and salt will be sufficient for fifty pounds of meat. Have ready
+some large tubs, the bottoms sprinkled with salt, and lay the meat in
+the tubs with the skin downward. Put plenty of salt between each layer
+of meat. After it has lain eight days, take it out and wipe off all the
+salt, and wash the tubs. Make a pickle of soft water, equal quantities
+of salt and molasses, and a little saltpetre; allowing four ounces of
+saltpetre to two quarts of molasses and two quarts of salt, which is
+the proportion for fifty pounds of meat. The pickle must be strong
+enough to bear up an egg. Boil and skim it; and when it is cold, pour
+it over the meat, which must be turned every day and basted with the
+pickle. The hams should remain in the pickle at least four weeks; the
+shoulders and middlings of the bacon three weeks; and the jowls two
+weeks. They should then be taken out and smoked. Having washed off the
+pickle, before you smoke the meat, bury it, while wet, in a tub of
+bran. This will form a crust over it, and prevent evaporation of the
+juices. Let the smoke-house be ready to receive the meat immediately.
+Take it out of the tub after it has lain half an hour, and rub the bran
+evenly over it. Then hang it up to smoke with the small end downwards.
+The smoke-house should be dark and cool, and should stand alone, for
+the heat occasioned by an adjoining—building may spoil the meat, or
+produce insects. Keep up a good smoke all day, but have no blaze.
+Hickory is the best wood for a smoke-house fire, In three or four weeks
+the meat will be sufficiently smoked, and fit for use. During the
+process it should be occasionally taken down, examined, and hung up
+again. The best way of keeping hams is to wrap them in paper, or, to
+sew them in coarse cloths (which should be white-washed) and bury them
+in a barrel of hickory ashes. The ashes must be frequently changed.
+
+An old ham will require longer to soak, and longer to boil than a new
+one.
+
+Tongues may be cured in the above manner.
+
+LIVER PUDDINGS.
+
+Boil some pigs’ livers. When cold, mince them, and season them with
+pepper, salt, and some sage and sweet marjoram rubbed fine. You may add
+some powdered cloves. Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned, and
+fill them with the mixture, tying up the ends securely. Prick them with
+a fork to prevent their bursting; put them into hot water, and boil
+them slowly for about an hour. They will require no farther cooking
+before you eat them. Keep them in stone jars closely covered. They are
+eaten cold at breakfast or supper, cut into slices an inch thick or
+more; or they may be cut into large pieces, and broiled or fried.
+
+COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT.
+
+Having cleared it from the skin, sinews, and gristle, take six pounds
+of the lean of young fresh pork, and three pounds of the fat, and mince
+it all as fine as possible. Take some dried sage, pick off the leaves
+and rub them to powder, allowing three tea-spoonfuls to each pound of
+meat. Having mixed the fat and lean well together, and seasoned it with
+nine tea-spoonfuls of pepper, and the same quantity of salt, strew on
+the powdered sage, and mix the whole very well with your hands. Put it
+away in a stone jar, packing it down hard; and keep it closely covered.
+Set the jar in a cool dry place.
+
+When you wish to use the sausage-meat, make it into flat cakes about an
+inch thick and the size of a dollar; dredge them with flour, and fry
+them in butter or dripping, over rather a slow fire, till they are well
+browned on both sides, and thoroughly done.
+
+Sausages are seldom eaten except at breakfast.
+
+FINE SAUSAGES.
+
+Take some fresh pork, (the leg is best,) and clear it from the skin,
+sinews, and gristle. Allow two pounds of fat to three pounds of lean.
+Mince it all very fine, and season it with two ounces and a half of
+salt, half an ounce of pepper, thirty cloves, and a dozen blades of
+mace powdered, three grated, nutmegs, six table-spoonfuls of powdered
+sage, and two tea-spoonfuls of powdered rosemary. Mix all well
+together. Put it into a stone jar, and press it down very hard. Cover
+it closely, and keep it in a dry cool place.
+
+When you use this sausage-meat, mix with it some beaten yolk of egg,
+and make it into balls or cakes. Dredge them with flour, and fry them
+in butter.
+
+BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.
+
+Take ten pounds of beef, and four pounds of pork; two-thirds of the
+meat should be lean, and only one third fat. Chop it very fine, and mix
+it well together. Then season it with six ounces of fine salt, one
+ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of cayenne, one table-spoonful of
+powdered cloves; and one clove or garlic minced very fine.
+
+Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned and prepared, (they should
+be beef-skins,) and wash them in salt and vinegar. Fill them with the
+above mixture, and secure the ends by tying them with packthread or
+fine twine. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear up an
+egg. Put the sausages into it, and let them lie for three weeks,
+turning them daily. Then take them out, wipe them dry, hang them up and
+smoke them. Before you put them away rub them all over with, sweet oil,
+
+Keep them in ashes. That of vine-twigs is best for them.
+
+You may fry them or not before you eat them.
+
+PORK CHEESE.
+
+Take the heads, tongues, and feet of young fresh pork, or any other
+pieces that are convenient. Having removed the skin, boil them till all
+the meat is quite tender, and can be easily stripped from the bones.
+Then chop it small, and season it with salt and black pepper to your
+taste, and if you choose, some beaten cloves. Add sage-leaves and sweet
+marjoram, minced fine, or rubbed to powder. Mix the whole very well
+together with your hands. Put it into deep pans, with straight sides,
+(the shape of a cheese,) press it down hard and closely with a plate
+that will fit the pan; putting the under side of the plate next to the
+meat, and placing a heavy weight on it. In two or three days it will be
+fit for use, and you may turn it out of the pan. Send it to table cut
+in slices, and use mustard and vinegar with it. It is generally eaten
+at supper or breakfast.
+
+PIG’S FEET AND EARS SOUSED.
+
+Having cleaned them properly, and removed the skin, boil them slowly
+till they are quite tender, and then split the feet and put them with
+the ears into salt and vinegar, flavoured with a little mace. Cover the
+jar closely, and set it away. When you use them, dry each piece well
+with a cloth; dip them first in beaten yolk of egg, and then in
+bread-crumbs, and fry them nicely in butter or lard. Or you may eat
+them cold, just out of the vinegar.
+
+If you intend keeping them some time, you must make a fresh pickle for
+them every other day.
+
+TO IMITATE WESTPHALIA HAM.
+
+The very finest pork must be used for these hams. Mix together an equal
+quantity of powdered saltpetre and brown sugar, and rub it well into
+the hams. Next day make a pickle in sufficient quantity to cover them
+very well. The proportions of the ingredients are a pound and a half of
+fine salt, half a pound of brown sugar, an ounce of black pepper and an
+ounce of cloves pounded to powder, a small bit of sal prunella, and a
+quart of stale strong beer or porter. Boil them all together, so as to
+make a pickle that will bear up an egg. Pour it boiling hot over the
+meat, and let it lie in the pickle two weeks, turning it two or three
+times every day, and basting or washing it with the liquid. Then take
+out the hams, rub them with bran and smoke them for a fortnight. When
+done, keep them in a barrel of wood ashes.
+
+In cooking these hams simmer them slowly for seven or eight hours.
+
+To imitate the shape of the real Westphalia hams, cut some of the meat
+off the under side of the thick part, so as to give them a flat
+appearance. Do this before you begin to cure them, first loosening the
+skin and afterwards sewing it on again.
+
+The ashes in which you keep them must be changed frequently, wiping the
+hams when you take them out.
+
+TO GLAZE A COLD HAM.
+
+With a brush or quill feather go all over the ham with beaten yolk of
+egg. Then cover it thickly with pounded cracker, made as fine as flour,
+or with grated crumbs of stale bread. Lastly go over it with thick
+cream. Put it to brown in the oven of a stove, or brown it on the spit
+of a tin roaster, set before the fire and turned frequently.
+
+This glazing will be found delicious.
+
+
+
+
+VENISON, ETC.
+
+
+TO ROAST A SADDLE OR HAUNCH OF VENISON.
+
+Wipe it all over with a sponge dipped in warm water Then rub the skin
+with lard or nice dripping. Cover the fat with sheets of paper two
+double, buttered, and tied on with packthread that has been soaked to
+keep it from burning. Or, what is still better, you may cover the first
+sheets of paper with a coarse paste of flour and water rolled out half
+an inch thick, and then cover the paste with the second sheets of
+paper, securing the whole well with the string to prevent its falling
+off. Place the venison on the spit before a strong clear fire, such as
+you would have for a sirloin of beef, and let the fire be well kept up
+all the time. Put some claret and butter into the dripping-pan and
+baste the meat with it frequently. If wrapped in paste, it will not be
+done in less than five hours. Half an hour before you take it up,
+remove the coverings carefully, place the meat nearer to the fire,
+baste it with fresh butter and dredge it very lightly with flour. Send
+it to table with fringed white paper wrapped round the bone, and its
+own gravy well skimmed. Have currant jelly to eat with it. As venison
+chills immediately, the plates should be kept on heaters.
+
+You may make another gravy with a pound and a half of scraps and
+trimmings or inferior pieces of venison, put into a sauce-pan with
+three pints of water, a few cloves, a few blades of mace, half a
+nutmeg; and salt and cayenne to your taste. Boil it down slowly to a
+pint. Then skim off the fat, and strain the gravy into a clean
+sauce-pan. Add to it half a pint of currant jelly, half a pint of
+claret, and near a quarter of a pound of butter divided into bits and
+rolled in flour. Send it to table in two small tureens or sauce-boats.
+This gravy will be found very fine.
+
+Venison should never be roasted unless very fat. The shoulder is a
+roasting piece, and may be done without the paper or paste.
+
+Venison is best when quite fresh; but if it is expedient to keep it a
+week before you cook it, wash it well with milk and water, and then dry
+it perfectly with cloths till there is not the least damp remaining on
+it. Then mix together powdered ginger and pepper, and rub it well over
+every part of the meat. Do not, however, attempt to keep it unless the
+weather is quite cold.
+
+TO HASH COLD VENISON.
+
+Cut the meat in nice small slices, and put the trimmings and bones into
+a sauce-pan with barely water enough to cover them. Let them stew for
+an hour. Then strain the liquid into a stew-pan; add to it some bits of
+butter rolled in flour, and whatever gravy was left of the venison the
+day before. Stir in some currant jelly, and give it a boil up. Then put
+in the meat, and keep it over the fire just long enough to warm it
+through; but do not allow it to boil, as it has been once cooked
+already.
+
+VENISON STEAKS.
+
+Cut them from the neck or haunch. Season them with pepper and salt.
+When the gridiron has been well heated over a bed of bright coals,
+grease the bars, and lay the steaks upon it. Broil them well, turning
+them once, and taking care to save as much of the gravy as possible.
+Serve them up with some currant jelly laid on each steak. Have your
+plates set on heaters.
+
+VENISON PASTY.
+
+The neck, breast, and shoulder are the parts used for a venison pie or
+pasty. Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean together) and put the
+bones and trimmings into a stew-pan with pepper and salt, and water or
+veal broth enough to cover it. Simmer it till you have drawn out a good
+gravy. Then strain it.
+
+In the mean time make a good rich paste, and roll it rather thick.
+Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with one sheet of it, and put
+in your meat, having seasoned it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace.
+Pour in the gravy which you have prepared from the trimmings, and two
+glasses of port or claret, and lay on the top some hits of butter
+rolled in flour. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste, and ornament
+it handsomely with leaves and flowers formed with a tin cutter. Bake it
+two hours or more, according to its size.
+
+VENISON HAMS.
+
+Venison for hams must be newly killed, and in every respect as good as
+possible. Mix together equal quantities of salt and brown sugar, and
+rub it well into the hams. Put them into a tub, and let them lie seven
+days; turning them and rubbing them daily with the mixture of salt and
+sugar. Next mix together saltpetre and common salt, in the proportion
+of two ounces of saltpetre to a handful of salt. Rub it well into your
+hams, and let them lie a week longer. Then wipe them, rub them with
+bran, and smoke them a fortnight over hickory wood. Pack them in wood
+ashes.
+
+Venison ham must not be cooked before it is eaten. It is used for the
+tea-table, chipped or shred like dried beef, to which it is considered
+very superior.
+
+It will not keep as long as other smoked meat.
+
+TO ROAST A KID.
+
+A kid should be cooked the day it is killed, or the day after at
+farthest. They are best from three to four months old, and are only
+eaten while they live on milk.
+
+Wash the kid well, wipe it dry, and truss it. Stuff the body with a
+force-meat of grated bread, butter or suet, sweet herbs, pepper, salt,
+nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and beaten egg; and sew it up to keep the
+stuffing in its place. Put it on the spit and rub it over with lard, or
+sweet oil. Put a little salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste
+the kid first with that, and afterwards with its own gravy. Or you may
+make it very nice by basting it with cream. It should roast about three
+hours. At the last, transfer the gravy to a small sauce-pan; thicken it
+with a little butter rolled in flour, give it a boil up, and send it to
+table in a boat. Garnish the kid with lumps of currant jelly laid round
+the edge of the dish.
+
+A fawn (which should never be kept more than one day) may be roasted in
+the same manner; also, a hare, or a couple of rabbits.
+
+You may send to table, to eat with the kid, a dish of chestnuts boiled
+or roasted, and divested of the shells.
+
+TO ROAST A HARE.
+
+If a hare is old do not roast it, but make soup of it. Wash and soak it
+in water for an hour, and change the water several times, having made a
+little slit in the neck to let out the blood. Take out the heart and
+liver, and scald them. Drain, dry, and truss the hare. Make a
+force-meat richer and more moist than usual, and add to it the heart
+and liver minced fine. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little claret before
+you mix them with the other ingredients. Stuff the body of the hare
+with this force-meat, and sew it up. Put it on the spit, rub it with
+butter, and roast it before a brisk fire. For the first half hour baste
+it with butter; and afterwards with cream, or with milk thickened with
+beaten yolk of egg. At the last, dredge it lightly with flour. The hare
+will require about two hours roasting.
+
+For sauce, take the drippings of the hare mixed with cream or with
+claret, and a little lemon-juice, a bit of butter, and some
+bread-crumbs. Give it a boil up, and send it to table in a boat.
+Garnish the hare with slices of currant jelly laid round it in the
+dish.
+
+FRICASSEED RABBITS.
+
+The best way of cooking rabbits is to fricassee them. Take a couple of
+fine ones, and cut them up, or disjoint them. Put them into a stew-pan;
+season them with cayenne pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and
+some powdered mace. Pour in a pint of warm water (or of veal broth, if
+you have it) and stew it over a slow fire till the rabbits are quite
+tender; adding (when they are about half done) some bits of butter
+rolled in flour. Just before you take it from the fire, enrich the
+gravy with a jill or more of thick cream with some nutmeg grated into
+it. Stir the gravy well, but take care not to let it boil after the
+cream is in, lest it curdle.
+
+Put the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over them.
+
+TO STEW RABBITS.
+
+Having trussed the rabbits, lay them in a pan of warm water for about
+fifteen minutes. Then put them into a pot with plenty of water and a
+little salt, and stew them slowly for about an hour, or till they are
+quite tender. In the mean time, peel and boil in a sauce-pan a dozen
+onions. When they are quite tender all through, take them out, and
+drain and slice them. Have ready some drawn, butter, prepared by taking
+six ounces of butter, (cut into bits and rolled in about three
+tea-spoonfuls of flour,) and melting it in a jill of milk. After
+shaking it round-over hot coals till it simmers, add to it the onions,
+and give it one boil up.
+
+When the rabbits are done stewing lay them on a large dish (having
+first cut off their heads, which should not he sent to table) and cover
+them all over with the onion-sauce, to which you may add some grated
+nutmeg.
+
+TO FRY RABBITS,
+
+Having washed the rabbits well, put them into a pan of cold water, and
+let them lie in it two or three hours. Then cut them into joints, dry
+them in a cloth, dredge them with flour, strew them with chopped
+parsley, and fry them in butter. After you take them out of the
+frying-pan, stir a wine-glass of cream into the gravy, or the beaten
+yolk of an egg. Do not let it boil, but pour it at once into the dish
+with the rabbits.
+
+Rabbits are very good baked in a pie. A boiled or pot-pie may be made
+of them.
+
+They may he stuffed with force-meat and roasted, basting them with
+butter. Cut off their heads before you send them to table.
+
+
+
+
+POULTRY, GAME, ETC.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS
+
+In buying poultry choose those that are fresh and fat. Half-grown
+poultry is comparatively insipid; it is best when full-grown but not
+old. Old poultry is tough and hard. An old goose is so tough as to be
+frequently uneatable. When poultry is young the skin is thin and
+tender, and can be easily tipped by trying it with a pin; the legs are
+smooth; the feet moist and limber; and the eyes full and bright. The
+body should be thick and the breast fat. The bill and feet of a young
+goose are yellow, and have but few hairs on them; when old they are red
+and hairy.
+
+Poultry is best when killed overnight, as if cooked too soon
+after-killing, it is hard and does not taste well. It is not the custom
+in America, as in some parts of Europe, to keep game, or indeed any
+sort of eatable, till it begins to taint; all food when inclining to
+decomposition being regarded by us with disgust.
+
+When poultry or game is frozen, it should be brought into the kitchen
+early in the morning of the day on which it is to be cooked. It may be
+thawed by laying it several hours in cold water. If it is not thawed it
+will require double the time to cook, and will be tough and tasteless
+when done. In drawing poultry be very careful not to break the gall,
+lest its disagreeable bitterness should be communicated to the liver.
+
+Poultry should be always scalded in hot water to make the feathers come
+out easily. Before they are cooked they should be held for a moment
+over the blaze of the fire to singe off the hairs that are about the
+skin. The head, neck, and feet should be cut off, and the ends of the
+legs skewered in the bodies. A string should be tied tightly round.
+
+TO BOIL A PAIR OF FOWLS.
+
+Make a force-meat in the usual manner, of grated, bread-crumbs, chopped
+sweet herbs, butter, pepper, salt, and yolk of egg. Fill the bodies of
+the fowls with the stuffing, and tie a string firmly round them. Skewer
+the livers and gizzards to the sides, under the wings. Dredge them with
+flour, and put them into a pot with just enough of water to cook them;
+cover it closely, and put it over a moderate fire. As soon as the scum
+rises, take off the pot and skim it. Then cover it again, and boil it
+slowly half an hour. Afterwards diminish the fire, and let them stew
+slowly till quite tender. An hour altogether is generally sufficient to
+boil a pair of fowls, unless they are quite old. By doing them slowly
+(rather stewing than boiling) the skin will not break, and they will be
+whiter and more tender than if boiled fast.
+
+Serve them up with egg-sauce in a boat.
+
+Young chickens are better for being soaked two hours in skim milk,
+previous to boiling. You need not stuff them. Boil or stew them, slowly
+in the same manner as large fowls. Three quarters of an hour will cook
+them.
+
+Serve them up with parsley-sauce, and garnish with parsley.
+
+Boiled fowls should be accompanied by ham or smoked tongue.
+
+TO ROAST A PAIR. OF FOWLS.
+
+Leave out the livers, gizzards and hearts, to be chopped and put into
+the gravy.—Fill the crops and bodies of the fowls with a force-meat,
+put them before a clear fire and roast them an hour, basting them with
+butter or with clarified dripping.
+
+Having stewed the necks, gizzards, livers, and hearts in a very little
+water, strain it and mix it hot with the gravy that has dripped from
+the fowls, and which must be first skimmed. Thicken it with a little
+browned flour, add to it the livers, hearts, and gizzards chopped
+small. Send the fowls to table with the gravy in a boat, and have
+cranberry-sauce to eat with them.
+
+BROILED CHICKENS.
+
+Split a pair of chickens down the back, and beat them flat, Wipe the
+inside, season them with pepper and salt, and let them, lie while you
+prepare some beaten yolk of egg and grated bread-crumbs. Wash the
+outside of the chickens all over with the egg, and then strew on the
+bread-crumbs. Have ready a hot gridiron over a bed of bright coals. Lay
+the chickens on it with the inside downwards, or next the fire. Broil
+them about three quarters of an hour, keeping them covered with a
+plate. Just before you take them up, lay some small pieces of butter on
+them.
+
+In preparing chickens for broiling, you may parboil them about ten
+minutes, to ensure their being sufficiently cooked; as it is difficult
+to broil the thick parts thoroughly without burning the rest.
+
+FRICASSEED CHICKENS.
+
+Having cut up your chickens, lay them in cold water till all the blood
+is drawn out. Then wipe the pieces, season them with pepper and salt,
+and dredge them with flour. Fry them in lard or butter; they should be
+of a fine brown on both sides. When they are quite done, take them, out
+of the frying-pan, cover them up, and set them by the fire to keep
+warm. Skim the gravy in the frying-pan and pour into it half a pint of
+cream; season it with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and thicken it
+with, a small bit of butter rolled in flour. Give it a boil, and then
+pour it round the chickens, which must he kept hot. Put some lard into
+the pan, and fry some parsley in It to lay on the pieces of chicken; it
+must be done green and crisp.
+
+To make a white fricassee of chickens, skin them, cut them in pieces,
+and having soaked out the blood, season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg
+and mace, and strew over them some sweet marjoram shred fine. Put them
+into a stew-pan, and pour over them half a pint of cream, or rich
+unskimmed milk. Add some butter rolled in Hour, and (if you choose)
+some small force-meat balls. Set the stew-pan over hot coals. Keep it
+closely covered, and stew or simmer it gently till the chicken is quite
+tender, but do not allow it to boil.
+
+You may improve it by a few small slices of cold ham.
+
+CHICKEN CROQUETS AND RISSOLES.
+
+Take some cold chicken, and having; cut the flesh from the bones, mince
+it small with a little suet and parsley; adding sweet marjoram and
+grated lemon-peel. Season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg, and having
+mixed the whole very well pound it to a paste in a marble mortar,
+putting in a little at a time, and moistening it frequently with yolk
+of egg that has been previously beaten. Then divide it into equal
+portions and having floured your hands, make it up in the shape of
+pears, sticking the head of a clove into the bottom of each to
+represent the blossom end, and the stalk of a clove into the top to
+look like the stem. Dip them into beaten yolk of egg, and then into
+bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted. Fry them in butter, and when you
+take them out of the pan, fry some parsley in it. Having drained the
+parsley, cover the bottom of a dish with it, and lay the croquets upon
+it. Send it to table as a side dish.
+
+Croquets maybe made of cold sweet-breads, or of cold veal mixed with
+ham or tongue.
+
+Rissoles are made of the same ingredients, well mixed, and beaten
+smooth in a mortar. Make a fine paste, roll it out, and cut it into
+round cakes. Then lay some of the mixture on one half of the cake, and
+fold over the other upon it, in the shape of a half-moon. Close and
+crimp the edges nicely, and fry the rissoles in butter. They should be
+of a light brown on both sides. Drain them and send them to table dry.
+
+BAKED CHICKEN PIE.
+
+Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with a thick paste. Having
+cut up your chickens, and seasoned them to your taste, with salt,
+pepper, mace and nutmeg, put them in, and lay on the top several pieces
+of butter rolled in flour. Fill up the dish about two-thirds with cold
+water. Then lay on the top crust, notching it handsomely. Cut a slit in
+the top, and stick into it an ornament of paste made in the form of a
+tulip. Bake it in a moderate oven.
+
+It will be much improved by the addition of a quarter of a hundred
+oysters; or by interspersing the pieces of chicken with slices of cold
+boiled ham.
+
+You may add also some yolks of eggs boiled hard.
+
+A duck pie may be made in the same manner. A rabbit pie also.
+
+
+A POT PIE.
+
+Take a pair of large fine fowls. Cut them up, wash the pieces, and
+season them with pepper and salt. Make a good paste in the proportion
+of a pound and a half of minced suet to three pounds of flour. Let
+there be plenty of paste, as it is always much liked by the eaters of
+pot pie. Roll out the paste not very thin, and cut most of it into long
+squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with paste nearly to
+the top. Lay slices of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and then the
+pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares of paste, and
+potatoes pared and quartered. Lay a lid of paste all over the top,
+leaving a hole in the middle. Pour in about a quart of water, cover the
+pot, and boil it slowly but steadily for two hours. Half an hour before
+you take it up, put in through the hole in the centre of the crust,
+some bits of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy. When done
+put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy over it.
+
+You may intersperse it all through with cold ham.
+
+A pot pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison. Also of
+beef-steaks.
+
+CHICKEN CURRY.
+
+Take a pair of fine fowls, and having cut them in pieces, lay them in
+salt and water till the seasoning is ready. Take two table-spoonfuls of
+powdered ginger, one table-spoonful of fresh turmeric, a tea-spoonful
+of ground black pepper; some mace, a few cloves, some cardamom seeds,
+and a little cayenne pepper with a small portion of salt. These last
+articles according to your taste. Put all into a mortar, and add to
+them eight large onions, chopped or cut small. Mix and beat all
+together, till the onions, spices, &c. form a paste.
+
+Put the chickens into a pan with sufficient butter rolled in flour, and
+fry them till they are brown, but not till quite done. While this is
+proceeding, set over the fire a sauce-pan three parts full of water, or
+sufficient to cover the chickens when they are ready. As soon as the
+water boils, throw in the curry-paste. When the paste has all
+dissolved, and is thoroughly mixed with the water, put in the pieces of
+chicken to boil, or rather to simmer. When the chicken is quite done,
+put it into a large dish, and eat it with boiled rice. The rice may
+either be laid round on the same dish, or served up separately.
+
+This is a genuine East India receipt for curry.
+
+Lamb, veal, or rabbits may be curried in the same manner.
+
+_To boil Rice for the Curry._
+
+Pick the rice carefully, to clear it from husks and motes. Then soak it
+in cold water for a quarter of an hour, or more. When you are ready to
+boil it, pour off the water in which it has soaked. Have ready a pot or
+sauce-pan of boiling water, into which you have put a little salt.
+Allow two quarts of water to a pound of rice. Sprinkle the rice
+gradually into the water. Boil it hard for twenty minutes, then take it
+off the fire, and pour off all the water that remains. Set the pot in
+the chimney corner with the lid off, while dinner is dishing, that it
+may have time to dry. You may toss it up lightly with two forks, to
+separate the grains while it is drying, but do not stir it with a
+spoon.
+
+A PILAU.
+
+Take a large fine fowl, and cover the breast with slices of fat bacon
+or ham, secured by skewers. Put it into a stew-pan with two sliced
+onions. Season it to your taste with white pepper and mace. Have ready
+a pint of rice that has been well picked, washed, and soaked. Cover the
+fowl with it. Put in as much water as will well cover the whole. Stew
+it about half an hour, or till the fowl and rice are thoroughly done;
+keeping the stew-pan closely covered. Dish it all together, either with
+the rice covering the fowl, or laid round it in little heaps.
+
+You may make a pilau of beef or mutton with a larger quantity of rice;
+which must not be put in at first, or it will be done too much, the
+meat requiring a longer time to stew.
+
+CHICKEN SALAD.
+
+The fowls for this purpose should be young and fine. You may either
+boil or roast them. They must be quite cold. Having removed all the
+skin and fat, and disjointed the fowls cut the meat from the bones into
+very small pieces, not exceeding an inch. Wash and split two large fine
+heads of celery, and cut the white part into pieces also about an inch
+long; and having mixed the chicken and celery together, put them into a
+deep china dish, cover it and set it away.
+
+It is best not to prepare the dressing till just before the salad is to
+be eaten, that it may be as fresh as possible. Have ready the yolks of
+eight hard-boiled eggs. Put them into a flat dish, and mash them to a
+paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Add to the egg a small
+tea-spoonful of fine salt, the same quantity of cayenne pepper, half a
+jill of made mustard, a jill or a wine-glass and a half of vinegar, and
+rather more than two wine-glasses of sweet oil. Mix all these
+ingredients thoroughly; stirring them a long time till they are quite
+smooth.
+
+The dressing should not be put on till a few minutes before the salad
+is sent in; as by lying in it the chicken and celery will become tough
+and hard. After you pour it on, mix the whole well together with a
+silver fork.
+
+Chicken salad should be accompanied with plates of bread and butter,
+and a plate of crackers. It is a supper dish, and is brought in with
+terrapin, oysters, &c.
+
+Cold turkey is excellent prepared as above.
+
+An inferior salad may be made with cold fillet of veal, instead of
+chickens.
+
+Cold boiled lobster is very fine cut up and drest in this manner, only
+substituting for celery, lettuce cut up and mixed with the lobster.
+
+TO ROAST A PAIR OF DUCKS.
+
+After the ducks are drawn, wipe out the inside with a clean cloth, and
+prepare your stuffing. Mince very fine some green sage leaves, and
+twice their quantity of onion, (which should first be parboiled,) and
+add a little butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Mix the whole
+very well, and fill the crops and bodies of the ducks with it, leaving
+a little space for the stuffing to swell. Reserve the livers, gizzards,
+and hearts to put in the gravy. Tie the bodies of the ducks firmly
+round with strings, (which should be wetted or buttered to keep them
+from burning,) and put them on the spit before a clear brisk fire.
+Baste them first with a little salt and water, and then with their own
+gravy, dredging them lightly with flour at the last. They will be done
+in about an hour. After boiling the livers, gizzards and hearts, chop
+them, and put them into the gravy; having first skimmed it, and
+thickened it with a little browned flour.
+
+Send to table with the ducks a small tureen of onion-sauce with chopped
+sage leaves in it. Accompany them also with stewed cranberries and
+green peas.
+
+Canvas-back ducks are roasted in the same manner, omitting the
+stuffing. They will generally be done enough in three quarters of an
+hour. Send currant jelly to table with them, and have heaters to place
+under the plates. Add to the gravy a little cayenne, and a large
+wine-glass of claret or port.
+
+Other wild ducks and teal may be roasted in about half an hour. Before
+cooking soak them all night in salt and water, to draw out whatever
+fishy or sedgy taste they may happen to have, and which may otherwise
+render them uneatable. Then early in the morning put them in fresh
+water (without salt,) changing it several times before you spit them.
+
+You may serve up with wild ducks, &c. orange-sauce, which is made by
+boiling in a little water two large sweet oranges cut into slices,
+having first removed the rind. When the pulp is all dissolved, strain
+and press it through a sieve, and add to it the juice of two more
+oranges, and a little sugar. Send it to table either warm or cold.
+
+STEWED DUCK.
+
+Half roast a large duck. Cut it up, and put it into a stew-pan with a
+pint of beef-gravy, or dripping of roast-beef. Have ready two boiled
+onions, half a handful of sage leaves, and two leaves of mint, all
+chopped very fine and seasoned with pepper and salt. Lay these
+ingredients over the duck. Stew it slowly for a quarter of an hour.
+Then put in a quart of young green peas. Cover it closely, and simmer
+it half an hour longer, till the peas are quite soft. Then add a piece
+of butter rolled in flour; quicken the fire, and give it one boil.
+Serve up all together.
+
+A cold duck that has been under-done may be stewed in this manner.
+
+TO HASH A DUCK.
+
+Cut up the duck and season it with pepper and mixed spices. Have ready
+some thin slices of cold ham or bacon. Place a layer of them in a
+stew-pan; then put in the duck and cover it with ham. Add just water
+enough to moisten it, and pour over all a large glass of red wine.
+Cover the pan closely and let it stew for an hour.
+
+Have ready a quart or more of green peas, boiled tender drained, and
+mixed with butter and pepper. Lay them round the hashed duck.
+
+If you hash a cold duck in this manner, a quarter of an hour will be
+sufficient for stewing it; it having been cooked already.
+
+TO ROAST A GOOSE.
+
+Having drawn and singed the goose, wipe out the inside with a cloth,
+and sprinkle in some pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of four good
+sized onions minced fine, and half their quantity of green sage leaves
+minced also, a large tea-cupful of grated bread-crumbs, a piece of
+butter the size of a walnut, and the beaten yolks of two eggs, with a
+little pepper and salt. Mix the whole together, and incorporate them
+well. Put the stuffing into the goose, and press it in hard; but do not
+entirely fill up the cavity, as the mixture will swell in cooking. Tie
+the goose securely round with a greased or wetted string; and paper the
+breast to prevent it from scorching. Fasten the goose on the spit at
+both ends. The fire must be brisk and well kept up. It will require
+from two hours to two and a half to roast. Baste it at first with a
+little salt and water, and then with its own gravy. Take off the paper
+when the goose is about half done, and dredge it with a little flour
+towards the last. Having parboiled the liver and heart, chop them and
+put them into the gravy, which must be skimmed well and thickened with
+a little browned flour.
+
+Send apple-sauce to table with the goose; also mashed potatoes.
+
+A goose may be stuffed entirely with potatoes, boiled and mashed with
+milk, butter, pepper and salt.
+
+You may make a gravy of the giblets, that is the neck, pinions, liver,
+heart and gizzard, stewed in a little water, thickened with butter
+rolled in flour, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Add a glass of red
+wine. Before you send it to table, take out all but the liver and
+heart; mince them and leave them in the gravy. This gravy is by many
+preferred to that which comes from the goose in roasting. It is well to
+have both.
+
+If a goose is old it is useless to cook it, as when hard and tough it
+cannot be eaten.
+
+A GOOSE PIE.
+
+Cut a fine large young goose into eight pieces, and season it with
+pepper. Reserve the giblets for gravy. Take a smoked tongue that has
+been all night in soak, parboil it, peel it, and cut it into thick
+slices, omitting the root, which you must divide into small pieces, and
+put into a sauce-pan with the giblets and sufficient water to stew them
+slowly.
+
+Make a nice paste, allowing a pound and a half of butter to three
+pounds of flour. Roll it out thick, and line with it the bottom and
+sides of a deep dish. Fill it with the pieces of goose, and the slices
+of tongue. Skim the gravy you have drawn from the giblets, thicken it
+with a little browned flour, and pour it into the pie dish. Then put on
+the lid or upper crust. Notch and ornament it handsomely with leaves
+and flowers of paste. Bake the pie about three hours in a brisk oven.
+
+In making a large goose pie you may add a fowl, or a pair of pigeons,
+or partridges,—all cut up.
+
+A duck pie may be made in the same manner.
+
+Small pies are sometimes made of goose giblets only.
+
+A CHRISTMAS GOOSE PIE.
+
+These pies are always made with a standing crust. Put into a sauce-pan
+one pound of butter cut up, and a pint and a half of water; stir it
+while it is melting, and let it come to a boil. Then skim off whatever
+milk or impurity may rise to the top. Have ready four pounds of flour
+sifted into a pan. Make a hole in the middle of it, and pour in the
+melted butter while hot. Mix it with a spoon to a stiff paste, (adding
+the beaten yolks of three or four eggs,) and then knead it very well
+with your hands, on the paste-board, keeping it dredged with flour till
+it ceases to be sticky. Then set it away to cool.
+
+Split a large goose, and a fowl down the back, loosen the flesh all
+over with a sharp knife, and take out all the bones. Parboil a smoked
+tongue; peel it and cut off the root. Mix together a powdered nutmeg, a
+quarter of an ounce of powdered mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a
+tea-spoonful of salt, and season with them the fowl and the goose.
+
+Roll out the paste near an inch thick, and divide it into three pieces.
+Cut out two of them of an oval form for the top and bottom; and the
+other into a long straight piece for the sides or walls of the pie.
+Brush the paste all over with beaten white of egg, and set on the
+bottom the piece that is to form the wall, pinching the edges together,
+and cementing them with white of egg. The bottom piece must be large
+enough to turn up a little round the lower edge of the wall piece, to
+which it must be firmly joined all round. When you have the crust
+properly fixed, so as to be baked standing alone without a dish, put in
+first the goose, then the fowl, and then the tongue. Fill up what space
+is left with pieces of the flesh of pigeons, or of partridges, quails,
+or any game that is convenient. There must be no bones in the pie. You
+may add also some bits of ham, or some force-meat balls. Lastly, cover
+the other ingredients with half a pound of butter, and pat on the top
+crust, which, of course, must be also of an oval form to correspond
+with the bottom. The lid must be placed not quite on the top edge of
+the wall, but an inch and a half below it. Close it very well, and
+ornament the sides and top with festoons and leaves cut out of paste.
+Notch the edges handsomely, and put a paste flower in the centre. Glaze
+the whole with beaten yolk of egg, and bind the pie all round with a
+double fold of white paper. Set it in a regular oven, and bake it four
+hours.
+
+This is one way of making the celebrated goose pies that it is
+customary in England to send as presents at Christmas. They are eaten
+at luncheon, and if the weather is cold, and they are kept carefully
+covered up from the air, they will be good for two or three weeks; the
+standing crust assisting to preserve them.
+
+TO ROAST A TURKEY.
+
+Make a force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, minced suet, sweet marjoram,
+grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg. You
+may add some grated cold ham. Light some writing paper, and singe the
+hairs from the skin of the turkey. Reserve the neck, liver, and gizzard
+for the gravy. Stuff the craw of the turkey with the force-meat, of
+which there should be enough made to form into balls for frying, laying
+them round the turkey when it is dished. Dredge it with flour, and
+roast it before a clear brisk fire, basting it with cold lard. Towards
+the last, set the turkey nearer to the fire, dredge it again very
+lightly with flour, and baste it with butter. It will require,
+according to its size, from two to three hours roasting.
+
+Make the gravy of the giblets cut in pieces, seasoned, and stewed for
+two hours in a very little water; thicken it with a spoonful of browned
+flour, and stir into it the gravy from the dripping-pan, having first
+skimmed off the fat.
+
+A turkey should be accompanied by ham or tongue. Serve up with it
+mushroom-sauce. Have stewed cranberries on the table to eat with it. Do
+not help any one to the legs, or drum-sticks as they are called.
+
+Turkeys are sometimes stuffed entirely with sausage-meat. Small cakes
+of this meat should then be fried, and laid round it.
+
+To bone a turkey, you must begin with a very sharp knife at the top of
+the wings, and scrape the flesh loose from the bone without dividing or
+cutting it to pieces. If done carefully and dexterously, the whole mass
+of flesh may be separated from the bone, so that you can take hold of
+the head and draw out the entire skeleton at once. A large quantity of
+force-meat having been prepared, stuff it hard into the turkey,
+restoring it by doing so to its natural form, filling out the body,
+breast, wings and legs, so as to resemble their original shape when the
+bones were in. Roast or bake it; pouring a glass of port wine into the
+gravy. A boned turkey is frequently served up cold, covered with lumps
+of currant jelly; slices of which are laid round the dish.
+
+Any sort of poultry or game may be boned and stuffed in the same
+manner,
+
+A cold turkey that has not been boned is sometimes sent to table larded
+all over the breast with slips of fat bacon, drawn through the flesh
+with a larding needle, and arranged in regular form.
+
+TO BOIL A TURKEY.
+
+Take twenty-five large fine oysters, and chop them. Mix with them half
+a pint of grated bread-crumbs, half a handful of chopped parsley, a
+quarter of a pound of butter, two table-spoonfuls, of cream or rich
+milk, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. When it is thoroughly mixed,
+stuff the craw of the turkey with it, and sew up the skin. Then dredge
+it with flour, put it into a large pot or kettle, and cover it well
+with cold water. Place it over the fire, and let it boil slowly for
+half an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Then remove the pot from
+over the fire, and set it on hot coals to stew slowly for two hours, or
+two hours and a half, according to its size, Just before you send it to
+table, place it again over the fire to get well heated. When you boil a
+turkey, skewer the liver and gizzard to the sides, under the wings.
+
+Send it to table with oyster-sauce in a small tureen.
+
+In making the stuffing, you may substitute for the grated bread,
+chestnuts boiled, peeled, and minced or mashed. Serve up
+chestnut-sauce, made by peeling some boiled chestnuts and putting them
+whole into melted butter,
+
+Some persons, to make them white, boil their turkeys tied up in a large
+cloth sprinkled with flour.
+
+With a turkey, there should be on the table a ham, or a smoked tongue.
+
+TO ROAST PIGEONS.
+
+Draw and pick four pigeons immediately after they are killed, and let
+them be cooked soon, as they do not keep well. Wash the inside very
+clean, and wipe it dry. Stuff them with a mixture of parsley parboiled
+and chopped, grated bread-crumbs, and butter; seasoned with pepper,
+salt, and nutmeg. Dredge them with flour, and roast them before a good
+fire, basting them with butter. They will be done in about twenty-five
+or thirty minutes. Serve them up with parsley-sauce. Lay the pigeons on
+the dish in a row.
+
+If asparagus is in season, it will be much better than parsley both for
+the stuffing and sauce. It must first be boiled. Chop the green heads
+for the stuffing, and cut them in two for the melted butter. Have
+cranberry-sauce on the table.
+
+Pigeons may be split and broiled, like chickens; also stewed or
+fricasseed.
+
+They are very good stewed with slices of cold ham and green peas,
+serving up all in the same dish.
+
+PIGEON PIE.
+
+Take four pigeons, and pick and clean them very nicely, Season them
+with pepper and salt, and put inside of every one a large piece of
+butter and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Have ready a good paste,
+allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out
+rather thick, and line with it the bottom and sides of a large deep
+dish. Put in the pigeons, and lay on the top some bits of butter rolled
+in flour. Pour in nearly enough of water to fill the dish. Cover the
+pie with a lid of paste rolled out thick, and nicely notched, and
+ornamented with paste leaves and flowers.
+
+You may make a similar pie of pheasants, partridges, or grouse.
+
+
+TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAILS, OR GROUSE.
+
+Pick and draw the birds immediately after they are brought in. Before
+you roast them, fill the inside with pieces of a fine ripe orange,
+leaving out the rind and seeds. Or stuff them with grated cold ham,
+mixed with bread-crumbs, butter, and a little yolk of egg. Lard them
+with small slips of the fat of bacon drawn through the flesh with a
+larding needle, Roast them before a clear fire.
+
+Make a fine rich gravy of the trimmings of meat or poultry, stewed in a
+little water, and thickened with a spoonful of browned flour. Strain
+it, and set it on the fire again, having added half a pint of claret,
+and the juice of two large oranges. Simmer it for a few minutes, pour
+some of it into the dish with the game, and serve the remainder in a
+boat.
+
+If you stuff them with force-meat, you may, instead of larding, brush
+them all over with beaten yolk of egg, and then cover them, with
+bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted.
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, ETC.
+
+Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the hard part; mix them with salt,
+and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the other
+ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and cover
+the birds with them; then wrap them closely in sheets of white paper
+well buttered, put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear
+fire.
+
+Send them to table with oyster-sauce in a boat.
+
+Pies may be made of any of these birds in the same manner as a pigeon
+pie.
+
+TO ROAST SNIPES, WOODCOCKS, OR PLOVERS.
+
+Pick them immediately; but it is the fashion to cook these birds
+without drawing. Cut some slices of bread, allowing a slice to each
+bird, and (having pared off the crust) toast them nicely, and lay them
+in the bottom of the dripping-pan to catch the trail, as it is called.
+Dredge the birds with flour, and put them on a small spit before a
+clear brisk fire. Baste them with lard, or fresh butter. They will be
+done in twenty or thirty minutes. Serve them up laid on the toast, and
+garnished with sliced orange, or with orange jelly.
+
+Have brown gravy in a boat.
+
+TO ROAST REED-BIRDS, OR ORTOLANS.
+
+Put into every bird, an oyster, or a little butter mixed with some
+finely sifted bread-crumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewer
+through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or with
+fresh butter. They will be done in about ten minutes.
+
+A very nice way of cooking these birds is, (having greased them all
+over with lard or with fresh butter, and wrapped them in vine leaves
+secured closely with a string,) to lay them in a heated iron pan, and
+bury them in ashes hot enough to roast or bake them. Remove the vine
+leaves before you send the birds to table.
+
+Reed birds are very fine made into little dumplings with a thin crust
+of flour and butter, and boiled about twenty minutes. Each must be tied
+in a separate cloth.
+
+LARDING.
+
+To lard meat or poultry is to introduce into the surface of the flesh,
+slips of the fat only of bacon, by means of a larding-pin or
+larding-needle, it being called by both names. It is a steel instrument
+about a foot long, sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four
+divisions, which are near two inches in length, and resemble tweezers.
+It can be obtained at the hardware stores.
+
+Cut the bacon into slips about two inches in length, half an inch in
+breadth, and half an inch in thickness. If intended for poultry, the
+slips of bacon should not be thicker than a straw. Put them, one at a
+time, into the cleft or split end of the larding-needle. Give each slip
+a slight twist, and press it down hard into the needle with your
+fingers. Then push the needle through the flesh, (avoiding the places
+where the bones are,) and when you draw it out it will have left behind
+it the slip of bacon sticking in the surface. Take care to have all the
+slips of the same size, and arranged in regular rows at equal
+distances. Every slip should stand up about an inch. If any are wrong,
+take them out and do them over again. To lard handsomely and neatly
+requires practice and dexterity.
+
+Fowls and game are generally larded on the breast only. If cold, they
+can be done with the fat of cold boiled ham. Larding may be made to
+look very tastefully on any thing that is not to be cooked afterwards.
+
+FORCE-MEAT BALLS.
+
+To a pound of the lean of a leg of veal, allow a pound of beef suet.
+Mince them together very fine. Then season it to your taste with
+pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and chopped sage or sweet marjoram. Then
+chop a half-pint of oysters, and beat six eggs very well. Mix the whole
+together, and pound it to a paste in a marble mortar. If you do not
+want it immediately, put it away in a stone pot, strew a little flour
+on the top, and cover it closely.
+
+When you wish to use the force-meat, divide into equal parts as much of
+it as you want; and having floured your hands, roll it into round
+balls, all of the same size. Either fry them in butter, or boil them.
+
+This force-meat will be found a very good stuffing for meat or poultry.
+
+
+
+
+GRAVY AND SAUCES.
+
+
+DRAWN OR MADE GRAVY.
+
+For this purpose you may use coarse pieces of the lean of beef or veal,
+or the giblets and trimmings of poultry or game. If must be stewed for
+a long time, skimmed, strained, thickened, and flavoured with whatever
+condiments are supposed most suited to the dish it is to accompany.
+
+In preparing meat to stew for gravy, beat it with a mallet or
+meat-beetle, score it, and cut it into small pieces; this makes it give
+oat the juices. Season it with pepper and salt, and put it into a
+stew-pan with butter only. Heat it gradually, till it becomes brown.
+Shake the pan frequently, and see that it does not bum or stick to the
+bottom. It will generally be browned sufficiently in half an hour. Then
+put in some boiling water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat.
+Simmer it on coals by the side of the fire for near three hours,
+skimming it well, and keeping it closely covered. When done, remove it
+from the heat, let it stand awhile to settle, and then strain it.
+
+If you wish to keep it two or three days, (which you may in winter,)
+put it into a stone vessel, cover it closely, and set it in a cool
+place.
+
+Do not thicken this gravy till you go to use it.
+
+MELTED BUTTER, SOMETIMES CALLED DRAWN BUTTER.
+
+Melted butter is the foundation of most of the common sauces. Have a
+covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One lined with porcelain will be
+best. Take a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, cut it up,
+and mix with it about two tea-spoonfuls of flour. When it is thoroughly
+mixed, put it into the sauce-pan, and add to it four table-spoonfuls of
+cold water. Cover the sauce-pan, and set it in a large tin pan of
+boiling water. Shake it round continually (always moving it the same
+way) till it is entirely melted and begins to simmer. Then let it rest
+till it boils up.
+
+If you set it on hot coals, or over the fire, it will be oily.
+
+If the butter and flour is not well mixed it will be lumpy.
+
+If you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. All these defects
+are to be carefully avoided.
+
+In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use milk instead
+of water.
+
+TO BROWN FLOUR.
+
+Spread some fine flour on a plate, and set it in the oven, turning it
+up and stirring it frequently that it may brown equally all through.
+
+Put it into a jar, cover it well, and keep it to stir into gravies to
+thicken and colour them.
+
+TO BROWN BUTTER.
+
+Put a lump of butter into a frying-pan, and toss it round over the fire
+till it becomes brown. Then dredge some browned flour over it, and stir
+it round with a spoon till it boils. It must be made quite smooth. You
+may make this into a plain sauce for fish by adding cayenne and some
+flavoured vinegar.
+
+
+
+
+PLAIN SAUCES.
+
+
+LOBSTER SAUCE.
+
+Boil a dozen blades of mace and half a dozen pepper-corns in about a
+jill and a half (or three wine-glasses) of water, till all the strength
+of the spice is extracted. Then strain it, and having cut three
+quarters of a pound of butter into little bits, melt it in this water,
+dredging in a little flour as you hold it over the fire to boil. Toss
+it round, and let it just boil up and no more.
+
+Take a cold boiled lobster,—pound the coral in a mortar adding a little
+sweet oil. Then stir it into the melted butter.
+
+Chop the meat of the body into very small pieces, and rub it through a
+cullender into the butter. Cut up the flesh of the claws and tail into
+dice, and stir it in. Give it another boil up, and it will be ready for
+table.
+
+Serve it up with fresh salmon, or any boiled fish of the best kind.
+
+Crab sauce is made in a similar manner; also prawn and shrimp sauce.
+
+ANCHOVY SAUCE.
+
+Soak eight anchovies for three or four hours, changing the water every
+hour. Then put them into a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Set
+them on hot coals and simmer them till they are entirely dissolved, and
+till the liquid is diminished two-thirds. Then strain it, stir two
+glasses of red wine, and add to it about half a pint of melted butter.
+
+Heat it over again, and send it to table with salmon or fresh cod.
+
+CELERY SAUCE.
+
+Take a large bunch of young celery. Wash and pare it very clean. Cut it
+into pieces, and boil it gently in a small quantity of water, till it
+is quite tender. Then add a little powdered mace and nutmeg, and a very
+little pepper and salt. Take a tolerably large piece of butter, roll it
+well in flour, and stir it into the sauce. Boil it up again, and it is
+ready to send to table.
+
+You may make it with cream, thus:—Prepare and boil your celery as
+above, adding some mace, nutmeg, a piece of butter the size of a
+walnut, rolled in flour; and half a pint of cream. Boil all together.
+
+Celery sauce is eaten with boiled poultry.
+
+When celery is out of season, you may use celery seed, boiled in the
+water which you afterwards use for the melted butter, but strained out
+after boiling.
+
+NASTURTIAN SAUCE.
+
+This is by many considered superior to caper sauce and is eaten with
+boiled mutton. It is made with the green seeds of nasturtians, pickled
+simply in cold vinegar.
+
+Cut about six ounces of butter into small hits, and put them into a
+small sauce-pan. Mix with a wine-glass of water sufficient flour to
+make a thick batter, pour it on the butter, and hold the sauce-pan over
+hot coals, shaking it quickly round, till the butter is melted. Let it
+just boil up, and then take it from the fire. Thicken it with the
+pickled nasturtians and send it to table in a boat.
+
+Never pour melted butter over any thing, but always send it to table in
+a sauce-tureen or boat.
+
+WHITE ONION SAUCE.
+
+Peel a dozen onions, and throw them into salt and water to keep them
+white. Then boil them tender. When done, squeeze the water from them,
+and chop them. Have ready some butter that has been melted rich and
+smooth with milk or cream instead of water. Put the onions into the
+melted butter, and boil them up at once. If you wish to have them very
+mild, put in a turnip with them at the first boiling.
+
+Young white onions, if very small, need not be chopped, but may be put
+whole into the butter.
+
+Use this sauce for rabbits, tripe, boiled poultry, or any boiled fresh
+meat.
+
+BROWN ONION SAUCE.
+
+Slice some large mild Spanish onions. Cover them with butter, and set
+them over a slow fire to brown. Then add salt and cayenne pepper to
+your taste, and some good brown gravy of roast meat, poultry or game,
+thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour that has first been
+browned by holding it in a hot pan or shovel over the fire. Give it a
+boil, skim it well, and just before you take it off, stir in a half
+glass of port or claret, and the same quantity of mushroom catchup.
+
+Use this sauce for roasted poultry, game, or meat.
+
+MUSHROOM SAUCE.
+
+Wash a pint of small button mushrooms,—remove the stems and the outside
+skin. Stew them slowly in veal gravy or in milk or cream, seasoning
+them with pepper and salt, and adding a piece of butter rolled in a
+large proportion of flour. Stew them till quite tender, now and then
+taking off the cover of the pan to stir them.
+
+The flavour will be heightened by having salted a few the night before
+in a covered dish, to extract the juice, and then stirring it into the
+sauce while stewing.
+
+This sauce may be served up with poultry, game, or beef-steaks.
+
+In gathering mushrooms take only those that are of a dull pearl colour
+on the outside, and that have the under part tinged with pale pink.
+
+Boil an onion with them. If there is a poisonous one among them, the
+onion will turn black. Then throw away the whole.
+
+EGG SAUCE.
+
+Boil four eggs a quarter of an hour. Dip them into cold water to
+prevent their looking blue. Peel off the shell. Chop the yolks of all,
+and the whites of two, and stir them into melted butter. Serve this
+sauce with boiled poultry or fish.
+
+BREAD SAUCE.
+
+Put some grated crumbs of stale bread into a sauce-pan, and pour over
+them some of the liquor in which poultry or fresh meat has been boiled.
+Add some plums or dried currants that have been picked and washed.
+Having simmered them till the bread is quite soft, and the currants
+well plumped, add melted butter or cream.
+
+This sauce is for a roast pig.
+
+MINT SAUCE.
+
+Take a large bunch of young green mint; if old the taste will be
+unpleasant. Wash it very clean. Pick all the leaves from the stalks.
+Chop the leaves very fine, and mix them with cold vinegar, and a large
+proportion of powdered sugar. There must be merely sufficient vinegar
+to moisten the mint well, but by no means enough to make the sauce
+liquid.
+
+It is only eaten in the spring with roast lamb. Send it to table in a
+sauce-tureen.
+
+CAPER SAUCE.
+
+Take two large table-spoonfuls of capers and a little vinegar. Stir
+them for some time into half a pint of thick melted butter.
+
+This sauce is for boiled mutton.
+
+If you happen to have no capers, pickled cucumber chopped fine, or the
+pickled pods of radish seeds, may be stirred into the butter as a
+tolerable substitute.
+
+PARSLEY SAUCE.
+
+Wash a bunch of parsley in cold water. Then boil it about six or seven
+minutes in salt and water. Drain it, cut the leaves from the stalks,
+and chop them fine. Hare ready some melted butter, and stir in the
+parsley. Allow two small table-spoonfuls of leaves to half a pint of
+butter.
+
+Serve it up with boiled fowls, rock-fish, sea-bass, and other boiled
+fresh fish.. Also with knuckle of veal, and with calf’s head boiled
+plain.
+
+APPLE SAUCE.
+
+Pare, core, and slice some fine apples. Put them into a sauce-pan with
+just sufficient water to keep them from burning, and some grated
+lemon-peel. Stew them till quite soft and tender. Then mash them to a
+paste, and make them very sweet with brown sugar, adding a small piece
+of butter and some nutmeg.
+
+Apple sauce is eaten with roast pork, roast goose and roast ducks.
+
+Be careful not to have it thin and watery.
+
+CRANBERRY SAUCE.
+
+Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with about a
+wine-glass of water. Stew them slowly, and stir them frequently,
+particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal of
+stewing, and should be like a marmalade when done. Just before you take
+them from the fire, stir in a pound of brown sugar.
+
+When they are thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them
+away to get cold.
+
+You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould, and
+when it is in a firm shape send it to table on a glass dish. Taste it
+when it is cold, and if not sweet enough, add more sugar. Cranberries
+require more sugar than any other fruit, except plums.
+
+Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast turkey, roast fowls, and roast
+ducks.
+
+PEACH SAUCE.
+
+Take a quart of dried peaches, (those are richest and best that are
+dried with the skins on,) and soak them in cold water till they are
+tender. Then drain them, and put them into a covered pan with a very
+little water. Set them on coals, and simmer them till they are entirely
+dissolved. Then mash them with brown sugar, and send them to table cold
+to eat with roast meat, game or poultry.
+
+WINE SAUCE.
+
+Have ready some rich thick melted or drawn butter, and the moment you
+take it from the fire, stir in two large glasses of white wine, two
+table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, and a powdered nutmeg. Serve
+it up with plum pudding, or any sort of boiled pudding that is made of
+a batter.
+
+COLD SWEET SAUCE.
+
+Stir together, as for a pound-cake, equal quantities of fresh butter
+and powdered white sugar. When quite light and creamy, add some
+powdered cinnamon or nutmeg, and a few drops of essence of lemon. Send
+it to table in a small deep plate with a tea-spoon in it.
+
+Eat it with batter pudding, bread pudding, Indian pudding, &c. whether
+baked or boiled. Also with boiled apple pudding or dumplings, and with
+fritters and pancakes.
+
+CREAM SAUCE.
+
+Boil a pint and a half of rich cream with four table-spoonfuls of
+powdered sugar, some pieces of cinnamon, and a dozen bitter almonds or
+peach kernels slightly broken up, or a dozen fresh peach leaves. As
+soon as it has boiled up, take it off the fire and strain it. If it is
+to be eaten with boiled pudding or with dumplings send it to table hot,
+but let it get quite cold if you intend it as an accompaniment to fruit
+pies or tarts.
+
+OYSTER SAUCE.
+
+Take a pint of oysters, and save out a little of their liquid. Put them
+with their remaining liquor, and some mace and nutmegs, into a covered
+sauce-pan, and simmer them on hot coals about eight minutes. Then drain
+them.
+
+Having prepared in another sauce-pan some drawn or melted butter,
+(mixed with oyster liquor instead of water,) pour it into a sauce-boat,
+add the oysters to it, and serve it up with boiled poultry or with
+boiled fresh fish.
+
+
+
+
+STORE FISH SAUCES.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Store fish sauces if properly made will keep for many months. They may
+be brought to table in fish castors, but a customary mode is to send
+them round in the small black bottles in which they have been
+originally deposited. They are in great variety, and may be purchased
+of the grocers that sell oil, pickles, anchovies, &c. In making them at
+home, the few following receipts may be found useful.
+
+The usual way of eating these sauces is to pour a little on your plate,
+and mix it with the melted butter. They give flavour to fish that would
+otherwise be insipid, and are in general use at genteel tables.
+
+Two table-spoonfuls of any of these sauces may be added to the melted
+butter a minute before you take it from the fire. But if brought to
+table in bottles, the company can use it or omit it as they please.
+
+SCOTCH SAUCE.
+
+Take fifteen anchovies, chop them fine, and steep them in vinegar for a
+week, keeping the vessel closely covered. Then put them into a pint of
+claret or port wine. Scrape fine a large stick of horseradish, and chop
+two onions, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of the leaves of
+lemon-thyme, and two large peach leaves. Add a nutmeg, six or eight
+blades of mace, nine cloves, and a tea-spoonful of black pepper, all
+slightly pounded in a mortar. Put all these ingredients into a silver
+or block tin sauce-pan, or into an earthen pipkin, and add a few grains
+of cochineal to colour it. Pour in a large half pint of the best
+vinegar, and simmer it slowly till the bones of the anchovies are
+entirely dissolved.
+
+Strain the liquor through a sieve, and when quite cold put it away for
+use in small bottles; the corks dipped in melted rosin, and
+well-secured by pieces of leather tied closely over them. Fill each
+bottle quite full, as it will keep the better for leaving no vacancy.
+
+This sauce will give a fine flavour to melted butter.
+
+QUIN’S SAUCE.
+
+Pound in a mortar six large anchovies, moistening them with their own
+pickle. Then chop and pound six small onions. Mix them with a little
+black pepper and a little cayenne, half a glass of soy, four glasses of
+mushroom catchup, two glasses of claret, and two of black walnut
+pickle. Put the mixture into a small sauce-pan or earthen pipkin, and
+let it simmer slowly till all the bones of the anchovies are dissolved.
+Strain it, and when cold, bottle it for use; dipping the cork in melted
+rosin, and tying leather over it. Fill the bottles quite full.
+
+KITCHINER’S FISH SAUCE.
+
+Mix together a pint of claret, a pint of mushroom catchup, and half a
+pint of walnut pickle, four ounces of pounded anchovy, an ounce of
+fresh lemon-peel pared thin, and the same quantity of shalot or small
+onion. Also an ounce of scraped horseradish, half an ounce of black
+pepper, and half an ounce of allspice mixed, and the same quantity of
+cayenne and celery-seed. Infuse these ingredients in a wide-mouthed
+bottle (closely stopped) for a fortnight, shaking the mixture every
+day. Then strain and bottle it for use. Put it up in small bottles,
+filling them quite full.
+
+HARVEY’S SAUCE.
+
+Dissolve six anchovies in a pint of strong vinegar, and then add to
+them three table-spoonfuls of India soy, and three table-spoonfuls of
+mushroom catchup, two heads of garlic bruised small, and a quarter of
+an ounce of cayenne. Add sufficient cochineal powder to colour the
+mixture red. Let all these ingredients infuse in the vinegar for a
+fortnight, shaking it every day, and then strain and bottle it for use.
+Let the bottles be small, and cover the corks with leather.
+
+GENERAL SAUCE.
+
+Chop six shalots or small onions, a clove of garlic, two peach leaves,
+a few sprigs of lemon-thyme and of sweet basil, and a few bits of fresh
+orange-peel. Bruise in a mortar a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a
+quarter of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of long pepper. Mix two
+ounces of salt, a jill of vinegar, the juice of two lemons, and a pint
+of Madeira. Put the whole of these ingredients together in a stone jar,
+very closely covered. Let it stand all night over embers by the side of
+the fire. In the morning pour off the liquid quickly and carefully from
+the lees or settlings, strain it and put it into small bottles, dipping
+the corks in melted rosin.
+
+This sauce is intended to flavour melted butter or gravy, for every
+sort of fish and meat.
+
+PINK SAUCE.
+
+Mix together half a pint of port wine, half a pint of strong vinegar,
+the juice and grated peel of two large lemons, a quarter of an ounce of
+cayenne, a dozen blades of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered
+cochineal. Let it infuse a fortnight, stirring it several times a day.
+Then boil it ten minutes, strain it, and bottle it for use.
+
+Eat it with any sort of fish or game. It will give a fine pink tinge to
+melted butter.
+
+CATCHUPS.
+
+LOBSTER CATCHUP.
+
+This catchup, warmed in melted butter, is an excellent substitute for
+fresh lobster sauce at seasons when the fish cannot he procured, as, if
+properly made, it will keep a year.
+
+Take a fine lobster that weighs about three pounds. Put it into boiling
+water, and cook it thoroughly. When it is cold break it up, and extract
+all the flesh from the shell. Pound the red part or coral in a marble
+mortar, and when it is well bruised, add the white meat by degrees, and
+pound that also; seasoning it with a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and
+moistening it gradually with sherry wine. When it is beaten to a smooth
+paste, mix it well with the remainder of the bottle of sherry. Put it
+into wide-mouthed bottles, and on the top of each lay a
+dessert-spoonful of whole pepper. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and
+secure them well by tying leather over them.
+
+In using this catchup allow four table-spoonfuls to a common-sized
+sauce-boat of melted butter. Put in the catchup at the last, and hold
+it over the fire just long enough to be thoroughly heated.
+
+ANCHOVY CATCHUP.
+
+Bone two dozen anchovies, and then chop them. Put to them ten shalots,
+or very small onions, cut fine, and a handful of scraped horseradish,
+with a quarter of an ounce of mace. Add a lemon, cut into slices,
+twelve cloves, and twelve pepper-corns. Then mix together a pint of red
+wine, a quart of white wine, a pint of water and half a pint of anchovy
+liquor. Put the other ingredients into the liquid, and boil it slowly
+till reduced to a quart. Then strain it, and when cold put it into
+small bottles, securing the corks with leather.
+
+OYSTER CATCHUP.
+
+Take large salt oysters that have just been opened. Wash them in their
+own liquor, and pound them, in a mortar, omitting the hard parts. To
+every pint of the pounded oysters, add a half pint of white wine or
+vinegar, in which you must give them a boil up, removing the scum as it
+rises. Then to each quart of the boiled oysters allow a tea-spoonful of
+beaten white pepper, a salt-spoonful of pounded mace, and cayenne and
+salt to your taste. Let it boil up for a few minutes, and then pass it
+through a sieve into an earthen pan. When cold, put it into small
+bottles, filling them quite full, as it will not keep so well if there
+is a vacancy at the top. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and tie leather
+over each.
+
+WALNUT CATCHUP.
+
+Take green walnuts that are young enough to be easily pierced through
+with a large needle. Having pricked them all in several places, throw
+them into an earthen pan with a large handful of salt, and barely
+sufficient water to cover them. Break up and mash them with a
+potato-beetle, or a rolling-pin. Keep them four days in the salt and
+water, stirring and mashing them every day. The rinds will now be quite
+soft. Then scald them with boiling-hot salt and water, and raising the
+pan on the edge, let the walnut liquor flow away from the shells into
+another pan. Put the shells into a mortar, and pound them with vinegar,
+which will extract from them all the remaining juice.
+
+Put all the walnut liquor together, and boil and skim it, then to every
+quart allow an ounce of bruised ginger, an ounce of black pepper, half
+an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of nutmeg, all slightly beaten.
+Boil the spice and walnut liquor in a closely covered vessel for three
+quarters of an hour. When cold, bottle it for use, putting equal
+proportions of the spice into each bottle. Secure the corks with
+leather.
+
+MUSHROOM CATCHUP.
+
+Take mushrooms that have been freshly gathered, and examine them
+carefully to ascertain that they are of the right sort. Pick them
+nicely, and wipe them clean, but do not wash them. Spread a layer of
+them at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and then sprinkle them well
+with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and another layer of salt,
+and so on alternately. Throw a folded cloth over the jar, and set it by
+the fire or in a very cool oven. Let it remain thus for twenty-four
+hours, and then mash them well with your hands. Next squeeze and strain
+them through a bag.
+
+To every quart of strained liquor add an ounce and a half of whole
+black pepper, and boil it slowly in a covered vessel for half an hour.
+Then add a quarter of an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of sliced
+ginger, a few cloves, and three or four blades of mace. Boil it with
+the spice fifteen minutes longer. When it is done, take it off, and let
+it stand awhile to settle. Pour it carefully off from the sediment and
+put it into small bottles, filling them to the top. Secure them well
+with corks dipped in melted rosin, and leather caps tied over them.
+
+The longer catchup is boiled, the better it will keep. You may add
+cayenne and nutmeg to the spices.
+
+The bottles should be quite small, as it soon spoils after being
+opened.
+
+TOMATA CATCHUP.
+
+Gather the tomatas on a dry day, and when quite ripe. Peel them, and
+cut them into quarters. Put them into a large earthen pan, and mash and
+squeeze them till they are reduced to a pulp. Allowing half a pint of
+fine salt to a hundred tomatas, put them into a preserving kettle, and
+boil them gently with the salt for two hours, stirring them frequently
+to prevent their burning. Then strain them through a fine sieve,
+pressing them with the back of a silver spoon. Season them to your
+taste with mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and white or red pepper, all
+powdered fine.
+
+Put the tomata again over the fire with the spices, and boil it slowly
+till very thick, stirring it frequently.
+
+When cold, put it up in small bottles, secure the corks well, and it
+will keep good a year or two.
+
+LEMON CATCHUP.
+
+Cut nine large lemons into thin slices, and take out the seeds.
+Prepare, by pounding them in a mortar, two ounces of mustard seed, half
+an ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an
+ounce of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves. Slice thin two
+ounces of horseradish. Put all these ingredients together. Strew over
+them three ounces of fine salt. Add a quart of the best vinegar.
+
+Boil the whole twenty minutes. Then put it warm into a jar, and let it
+stand three weeks closely covered. Stir it up daily.
+
+Then strain it through a sieve, and put it up in small bottles to
+flavour fish and other sauces. This is sometimes called lemon pickle.
+
+
+
+
+FLAVOURED VINEGARS.
+
+
+These vinegars will be found very useful, at times when the articles
+with which they are flavoured cannot be conveniently procured. Care
+should be taken to have the bottles that contain them accurately
+labelled, very tightly corked, and kept in a dry place. The vinegar
+used for these purposes should be of the very best sort.
+
+TARRAGON VINEGAR.
+
+Tarragon should be gathered on a dry day, just before the plant
+flowers. Pick the green leaves from the stalks, and dry them a little
+before the fire. Then put them into a wide-mouthed stone jar, and cover
+them with the best vinegar, filling up the jar. Let it steep fourteen
+days, and then strain it through a flannel bag. Pour it through a
+funnel into half-pint bottles, and cork them well.
+
+SWEET BASIL VINEGAR.
+
+Is made precisely in the same manner; also those of green mint, and
+sweet marjoram.
+
+CELERY VINEGAR.
+
+Pound two ounces of celery seed in a mortar, and steep it for a
+fortnight in a quart of vinegar. Then strain and bottle it.
+
+BURNET VINEGAR.
+
+Nearly fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of
+burnet, cover them with vinegar, and let them steep two weeks. Then
+strain off the vinegar, wash the bottle, put in a fresh supply of
+burnet leaves, pour the same vinegar over them, and let it infuse a
+fortnight longer. Then strain it again and it will be fit for use. The
+flavour will exactly resemble that of cucumbers.
+
+HORSERADISH VINEGAR.
+
+Make a quart of the best vinegar boiling hot, and pour it on four
+ounces of scraped horseradish. Let it stand a week, then strain it off,
+renew the horseradish, adding the same vinegar cold, and let it infuse
+a week longer, straining it again at the last.
+
+SHALOT VINEGAR.
+
+Peel and chop fine four ounces of shalots, or small button onions. Pour
+on them a quart of the best vinegar, and let them steep a fortnight;
+then strain and bottle it.
+
+Make garlic vinegar in the same manner; using but two ounces of garlic
+to a quart of vinegar. Two or three drops will be sufficient to impart
+a garlic taste to a pint of gravy or sauce. More will be offensive. The
+cook should be cautioned to use it very sparingly, as to many persons
+it is extremely disagreeable.
+
+CHILLI VINEGAR.
+
+Take a hundred red chillies or capsicums, fresh gathered; cut them into
+small pieces and infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of the best
+vinegar, shaking the bottle every day. Then strain it.
+
+RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
+
+Put two quarts of ripe fresh-gathered raspberries into a stone or china
+vessel, and pour on them a quart of vinegar. Let it stand twenty-four
+hours, and then strain it through a sieve. Pour the liquid over two
+quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it again infuse for a day and a
+night. Then strain it a second time. Allow a pound of loaf sugar to
+every pint of juice. Break up the sugar, and let it melt in the liquor.
+Then put the whole into a stone jar, cover it closely, and set it in a
+kettle of boiling water, which must be kept on a quick boil for an
+hour. Take off all the scum and when cold, bottle the vinegar for use.
+
+Raspberry vinegar mixed with water is a pleasant and cooling beverage
+in warm weather; also in fevers.
+
+
+
+
+MUSTARD AND PEPPER.
+
+
+COMMON MUSTARD
+
+Is best when fresh made. Take good flour of mustard; put it in a plate,
+add to it a little salt, and mix it by degrees with boiling water to
+the usual consistence, rubbing it for a long time with a broad-bladed
+knife or a wooden spoon. It should be perfectly smooth. The less that
+is made at a time the better it will be. If you wish it very mild, use
+sugar instead of salt, and boiling milk instead of water.
+
+KEEPING MUSTARD.
+
+Dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boiling vinegar, and pour
+it hot upon two ounces of scraped horseradish. Cover the jar closely
+and let it stand twenty-four hours. Strain it and then mix it by
+degrees with the best flour of mustard. Make it of the usual thickness,
+and beat it till quite smooth. Then put it into wide-mouthed bottles
+and stop it closely.
+
+FRENCH MUSTARD.
+
+Mix together four ounces of the very best mustard powder, four
+salt-spoons of salt, a large table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves,
+and two cloves of garlic chopped fine. Pour on by degrees sufficient
+vinegar (tarragon vinegar is best) to dilute it to the proper
+consistence. It will probably require about four wine-glassfuls or half
+a pint. Mix it well, using for the purpose a wooden spoon. When done,
+put it into a wide-mouthed bottle or into little white jars. Cork it
+very closely, and keep it in a dry place. It will not be fit for use in
+less than two days.
+
+This (used as the common mustard) is a very agreeable condiment for
+beef or mutton.
+
+TO MAKE CAYENNE PEPPER.
+
+Take ripe chillies and dry them a whole day before the fire, turning
+them frequently. When quite dry, trim off the stalks and pound the pods
+in a mortar till they become a fine powder, mixing in about one sixth
+of their weight in salt. Or you may grind them in a very fine mill.
+While pounding the chillies, wear glasses to save your eyes from being
+incommoded by them. Put the powder into small bottles, and secure the
+corks closely.
+
+KITCHEN PEPPER.
+
+Mix together two ounces of the best white ginger, an ounce of black
+pepper, an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of cinnamon, an ounce of
+nutmeg, and two dozen cloves. They must all be ground or pounded to a
+fine powder, and thoroughly mixed. Keep the mixture in a bottle,
+labelled, and well corked. It will be found useful in seasoning many
+dishes; and being ready prepared will save much trouble.
+
+
+
+
+VEGETABLES
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+All vegetables should be well picked and washed. A very little salt
+should always be thrown into the water in which they are boiled. A
+steady regular fire should be kept up, and they should never for a
+moment be allowed to stop boiling or simmering till they are thoroughly
+done. Every sort of vegetable should be cooked till tender, as if the
+least hard or under-done they are both unpalatable and unwholesome. The
+practice of putting pearl-ash in the pot to improve the colour of green
+vegetables should be strictly forbidden, as it destroys the flavour,
+and either renders them flat and insipid, or communicates a very
+disagreeable taste of its own.
+
+Every sort of culinary vegetable is infinitely best when fresh from the
+garden, and gathered as short a time as possible before it is cooked.
+They should all be laid in a pan of cold water for a while previous to
+boiling.
+
+When done, they should be carefully drained before they go to table, or
+they will be washy all through, and leave puddles of discoloured water
+in the bottoms of the dishes, to the disgust of the company and the
+discredit of the cook.
+
+TO BOIL POTATOES.
+
+Potatoes that are boiled together, should be as nearly as possible of
+the same size. Wash, but do not pare them. Put them into a pot with
+water enough to cover them about an inch, and do not put on the pot
+lid. When the water is very near boiling, pour it off, and replace it
+with the same quantity of cold water, into which throw a good portion
+of salt. The cold water sends the heat from the surface to the heart,
+and makes the potatoes mealy. Potatoes of a moderate size will require
+about half an hour boiling; large ones an hour. Try them with a fork.
+When done, pour off the water, cover the pot with a folded napkin, or
+flannel, and let them stand by the fire about a quarter of an hour to
+dry.
+
+Peel them and send them to table.
+
+Potatoes should not be served up with the skins on. It has a coarse,
+slovenly look, and disfigures the appearance of the dinner; besides the
+trouble and inconvenience of peeling them at table.
+
+When the skins crack in boiling, it is no proof that they are done, as
+too much fire under the pot will cause the skins of some potatoes to
+break while the inside is hard.
+
+After March, when potatoes are old, it is best to pare them before
+boiling and to cut out all the blemishes. It is then better to mash
+them always before they are sent to table. Mash them when quite hot,
+using a potato-beetle for the purpose; add to them a piece of fresh
+butter, and a little salt, and, if convenient, some milk, which will
+greatly improve them. You may score and brown them on the top.
+
+A very nice way of serving up potatoes is, after they are peeled, to
+pour over them some hot cream in which a very little butter has been
+melted, and sprinkle them with pepper. This is frequently done in
+country houses where cream is plenty. New potatoes (as they are called
+when quite young) require no peeling, but should be well washed and
+brushed before they are boiled.
+
+FRIED POTATOES.
+
+Take cold potatoes that have been boiled, grate them, make them into
+flat cakes, and fry them in butter. They are nice at breakfast. You may
+mix some beaten yolk of egg with them.
+
+Cold potatoes may be fried in slices or quarters, or broiled on a
+gridiron.
+
+Raw potatoes, when fried, are generally hard, tough, and strong.
+
+
+POTATO SNOW.
+
+For this purpose use potatoes that are very white, mealy, and smooth.
+Boil them very carefully, and when they are done, peel them, pour off
+the water, and set them on a trivet before the fire till they are quite
+dry and powdery. Then rub them through a coarse wire sieve into the
+dish on which they are to go to table. Do not disturb the heap of
+potatoes before it is served up, or the flakes will fall and it will
+flatten. This preparation looks well; but many think that it renders
+the potato insipid.
+
+ROASTED POTATOES.
+
+Take large fine potatoes; wash and dry them, and either lay them on the
+hearth and keep them buried in hot wood ashes, or bake them slowly in a
+Dutch oven. They will not be done in less than two hours. It will save
+time to half-boil them before they are roasted. Send them to table with
+the skins on, and eat them with cold butter and salt. They are
+introduced with cold meat at supper.
+
+Potatoes keep best buried in sand or earth. They should never be wetted
+till they are washed for cooking. If you have them in the cellar, see
+that they are well covered with matting or old carpet, as the frost
+injures them greatly.
+
+SWEET POTATOES BOILED.
+
+If among your sweet potatoes there should he any that are very large
+and thick, split them, and cut them in four, that they may not require
+longer time to cook than the others. Boil them with the skins on in
+plenty of water, but without any salt. You may set the pot on coals in
+the corner. Try them with a fork, and see that they are done all
+through; they will take at least an hour. Then drain off the water, and
+set them for a few minutes in a tin pan before the fire, or in the
+stove, that they may be well dried. Peel them before they are sent to
+table.
+
+FRIED SWEET POTATOES.
+
+Choose them of the largest size. Half boil them, and then having taken
+off the skins, cut the potatoes in slices, and fry them in butter, or
+in nice dripping.
+
+Sweet potatoes are very good stewed with fresh pork, veal, or beef.
+
+The best way to keep them through the cold weather, is to bury them in
+earth or sand; otherwise they will be scarcely eatable after October.
+
+CABBAGE.
+
+All vegetables of the cabbage kind should be carefully washed, and
+examined in case of insects lurking among the leaves. To prepare a
+cabbage for boiling, remove the outer leaves, and pare and trim the
+stalk, cutting it close and short. If the cabbage is large, quarter it;
+if small, cut it in half; and let it stand for a while in a deep part
+of cold water with the large end downwards. Put it into a pot with
+plenty of water, (having first tied it together to keep it whole while
+boiling,) and, taking off the scum, boil it two hours, or till the
+stalk is quite tender. When done, drain and squeeze it well. Before you
+send it to table introduce a little fresh butter between the leaves; or
+have melted butter in a boat. If it has been boiled with meat add no
+butter to it.
+
+A young cabbage will boil in an hour or an hour and a half.
+
+CALE-CANNON.
+
+Boil separately some potatoes and cabbage. When done, drain and squeeze
+the cabbage, and chop or mince it very small. Mash the potatoes, and
+mix them gradually but thoroughly with the chopped cabbage, adding
+butter, pepper and salt. There should be twice as much potato as
+cabbage.
+
+Cale-cannon is eaten with corned beef, boiled pork, or bacon.
+
+Cabbages may be kept good all winter by burying them in a hole dug in
+the ground.
+
+CAULIFLOWER
+
+Remove the green leaves that surround the head or white part, and peel
+off the outside skin of the small piece of stalk that is left on. Cut
+the cauliflower in four, and lay it for an hour in a pan of cold water.
+Then tie it together before it goes into the pot. Put it into boiling
+water and simmer it till the stalk is thoroughly tender, keeping it
+well covered with water, and carefully removing the scum. It will take
+about two hours.
+
+Take it up as soon as it is done; remaining in the water will discolour
+it. Drain it well, and send it to table with melted butter.
+
+It will be much whiter if put on in boiling milk and water.
+
+BROCOLI.
+
+Prepare brocoli for boiling in the same manner as cauliflower, leaving
+the stalks rather longer, and splitting the head in half only. Tie it
+together again, before it goes into the pot. Put it on in hot water,
+and let it simmer till the stalk is perfectly tender.
+
+As soon as it is done take it out of the water and drain it. Send
+melted butter to table with it.
+
+SPINACH.
+
+Spinach requires close examination and picking, as insects are
+frequently found among it, and it is often gritty. Wash it through
+three or four waters. Then drain it, and put it on in boiling water.
+Ten minutes is generally sufficient time to boil spinach. Be careful to
+remove the scum. When it is quite tender, take it up, and drain and
+squeeze it well. Chop it fine, and put it into a sauce-pan with a piece
+of butter and a little pepper and salt. Set it on hot coals, and let it
+stew five minutes, stirring it all the time.
+
+SPINACH AND EGGS.
+
+Boil the spinach as above, and drain and press it, but do not chop it.
+Have ready some eggs poached as follows. Boil in a sauce-pan, and skim
+some clear spring water, adding to it a table-spoonful of vinegar.
+Break the eggs separately, and having taken the sauce-pan off the fire,
+slip the eggs one at a time into it with as much dexterity as you can.
+Let the sauce-pan stand by the side of the fire till the white is set,
+and then put it over the fire for two minutes. The yolk should be
+thinly covered by the white. Take them up with an egg slice, and having
+trimmed the edges of the whites, lay the eggs on the top of the
+spinach, which should firstly seasoned with pepper and salt and a
+little butter, and must be sent to table hot.
+
+TURNIPS.
+
+Take off a thick paring from the outside, and boil the turnips gently
+for an hour and a half. Try them with a fork, and when quite tender,
+take them up, drain them on a sieve, and either send them to table
+whole with melted butter, or mash them in a cullender, (pressing and
+squeezing them well;) season with a little pepper and salt, and mix
+with them a very small quantity of butter. Setting in the sun after
+they are cooked, or on a part of the table upon which the sun may
+happen to shine, will give to turnips a singularly unpleasant taste,
+and should therefore he avoided.
+
+When turnips are very young, it is customary to serve them up with
+about two inches of the green top left on them.
+
+If stewed with meat, they should be sliced or quartered.
+
+Mutton, either boiled or roasted, should always be accompanied by
+turnips.
+
+CARROTS.
+
+Wash and scrape them well. If large cut them into two three, or four
+pieces. Put them into boiling water with a little salt in it. Full
+grown carrots will require three hours’ boiling; smaller ones two
+hours, and young ones an hour. Try them with a fork, and when they are
+tender throughout, take them up and dry them in a cloth. Divide them in
+pieces and split them, or cut them into slices.
+
+Eat them with melted butter. They should accompany boiled beef or
+mutton.
+
+PARSNIPS.
+
+Wash, scrape and split them. Put them into a pot of boiling water; add
+a little salt, and boil them till quite tender, which will be in from
+two to three hours, according to their size. Dry them in a cloth when
+done, and pour melted butter over them in the dish. Serve them up with
+any sort of boiled meat, or with salt cod.
+
+Parsnips are very good baked or stewed with meat.
+
+RUSSIAN OR SWEDISH TURNIPS
+
+This turnip (the Ruta Baga) is very large and of a reddish yellow
+colour; they are generally much liked. Take off a thick paring, cut the
+turnips into large pieces, or thick slices, and lay them awhile in cold
+water. Then boil them gently about two hours, or till they are quite
+soft. When done, drain, squeeze and mash them, and season them with
+pepper and salt, and a very little butter. Take care not to set them in
+a part of the table where the sun comes, as it will spoil the taste.
+
+Russian turnips should always be mashed.
+
+SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.
+
+The green or summer squash is best when the outside is beginning to
+turn yellow, as it is then less watery and insipid than when younger.
+Wash them, cut them into pieces, and take out the seeds. Boil them
+about three quarters of an hour, or till quits tender. When done, drain
+and squeeze them well till you have pressed out all the water; mash
+them with a little butter, pepper and salt. Then put the squash thus
+prepared into a stew-pan, set it on hot coals, and stir it very
+frequently till it becomes dry. Take care not to let it burn.
+
+WINTER SQUASH, OR CASHAW.
+
+This is much finer than the summer squash. It is fit to eat in August,
+and, in a dry warm place, can be kept well all winter. The colour is a
+very bright yellow. Pare it, take out the seeds, cut it in pieces, and
+stew it slowly till quite soft, in a very little water. Afterwards
+drain, squeeze, and press it well, and mash it with a very little
+butter, pepper and salt.
+
+PUMPKIN.
+
+Deep coloured pumpkins are generally the best. In a dry warm place they
+can be kept perfectly good all winter. When you prepare to stew a
+pumpkin, cut it in half and take out all the seeds. Then cut it in
+thick slices, and pare them. Put it into a pot with a very little
+water, and stew it gently for an hour, or till soft enough to mash.
+Then take it out, drain, and squeeze it till it is as dry as you can
+get it.
+
+Afterwards mash it, adding a little pepper and salt, and a very little
+butter.
+
+Pumpkin is frequently stewed with fresh beef or fresh pork.
+
+The water in which pumpkin has been boiled, is said to be very good to
+mix bread with, it having a tendency to improve it in sweetness and to
+keep it moist.
+
+HOMINY.
+
+Wash the hominy very clean through three or four waters. Then put it
+into a pot (allowing two quarts of water to one quart of hominy) and
+boil it slowly five hours. When done, take it up, and drain the liquid
+from it through a cullender. Put the hominy into a deep dish, and stir
+into it a small piece of fresh butter.
+
+The small grained hominy is boiled in rather less water, and generally
+eaten with butter and sugar.
+
+INDIAN CORN.
+
+Corn for boiling should be full grown but young and tender. When the
+grains become yellow it is too old. Strip it of the outside leaves and
+the silk, but let the inner leaves remain, as they will keep in the
+sweetness. Put it into a large pot with plenty of water, and boil it
+rather fast for three hours or more. When done, drain off the water,
+and remove the leaves.
+
+You may either lay the ears on a large flat dish and send them to table
+whole, or broken in half; or you may cut all the com off the cob, and
+serve it up in a deep dish, mixed with butter, pepper and salt.
+
+MOCK OYSTERS OF CORN.
+
+Take a dozen and a half ears of large young corn, and grate all the
+grains off the cob as fine as possible. Mix with the grated corn three
+large table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, the yolks of six eggs well
+beaten. Let all be well incorporated by hard beating.
+
+Have ready in a frying-pan an equal proportion of lard and fresh
+butter. Hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and then put in
+portions of the mixture as nearly as possible in shape and size like
+fried oysters. Fry them brown, and send them to table hot. They should
+be near an inch thick.
+
+This is an excellent relish at breakfast, and may be introduced as a
+side dish at dinner. In taste it has a singular resemblance to fried
+oysters. The corn must be young.
+
+STEWED EGG PLANT.
+
+The purple egg plants are better than the white ones. Put them whole
+into a pot with plenty of water, and simmer them till quite tender.
+Then take them out, drain them, and (having peeled off the skins) cut
+them up, and mash them smooth in a deep dish. Mix with them some grated
+bread, some powdered sweet marjoram, and a large piece of butter,
+adding a few pounded cloves. Grate a layer of bread over the top, and
+put the dish into the oven and brown it. You must send it to table in
+the same dish.
+
+Eggplant is sometimes eaten at dinner, but generally at breakfast.
+
+TO FRY EGG PLANT.
+
+Do not pare your egg plants if they are to be fried, but slice them
+about half an inch thick, and lay them an hour or two in salt and water
+to remove their strong taste, which to most persons is very unpleasant.
+Then take them out, wipe them, and season them, with pepper only. Beat
+some yolk of egg; and in another dish grate a sufficiency of
+bread-crumbs. Have ready in a frying-pan some lard and batter mixed,
+and make it boil. Then dip each slice of egg plant first in the egg,
+and then in the crumbs, till both sides are well covered; and fry them
+brown, taking care to have them done all through, as the least rawness
+renders them very unpalatable.
+
+STUFFED EGG PLANTS.
+
+Parboil them to take off their bitterness. Then slit each one down the
+side, and extract the seeds. Have ready a stuffing made of grated
+bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and
+beaten yolk of egg. Fill with it the cavity from whence you took the
+seeds, and bake the egg plants in a Dutch oven. Serve them up with a
+made gravy poured into the dish.
+
+FRIED CUCUMBERS.
+
+Having pared your cucumbers, cut them lengthways into pieces about as
+thick as a dollar. Then dry them in a cloth. Season them with pepper
+and salt, and sprinkle them thick with flour. Melt some butter in a
+frying-pan, and when it boils, put in the slices of cucumber, and fry
+them of a light brown. Send them to table hot.
+
+They make a breakfast dish..
+
+TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW.
+
+They should be as fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables being
+more unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are brought in lay
+them in cold water. Just before they are to go to table take them out,
+pare them and slice them into a pan of fresh cold water. When they are
+all sliced, transfer them to a deep dish, season them with a little
+salt and black pepper, and pour over them some of the best vinegar, to
+which you may add a little salad oil. You may mix with them a small
+quantity of sliced onion; not to be eaten, but to communicate a slight
+flavour of onion to the vinegar.
+
+SALSIFY.
+
+Having scraped the salsify roots, and washed them in cold water,
+parboil them. Then take them out, drain them, cut them into large
+pieces and fry them in butter.
+
+Salsify is frequently stewed slowly till quite tender, and then served
+up with melted butter. Or it may be first boiled, then grated, and made
+into cakes to be fried in butter.
+
+Salsify must not be left exposed to the air, or it will turn blackish.
+
+ARTICHOKES.
+
+Strip off the coarse outer leaves, and cut off the stalks close to the
+bottom. Wash the artichokes well, and let them lie two or three hours
+in cold water. Put them with their heads downward into a pot of boiling
+water, keeping them down by a plate floated over them. They must boil
+steadily from two to three hours; take care to replenish the pot with
+additional boiling water as it is wanted. When they are tender all
+through, drain them, and serve them up with melted butter.
+
+BEETS.
+
+Wash the beets, but do not scrape or cut them while they are raw; for
+if a knife enters them before they are boiled they will lose their
+colour. Boil them from two to three hours, according to their size.
+When they are tender all through, take them up, and scrape off all the
+outside. If they are young beets they are best split down and cut into
+long pieces, seasoned with pepper, and sent to table with melted
+butter. Otherwise you may slice them thin, after they are quite cold,
+and pour vinegar over them.
+
+TO STEW BEETS.
+
+Boil them first, and then scrape and slice them. Put them into a
+stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some boiled onion and
+parsley chopped fine, and a little vinegar, salt and pepper. Set the
+pan on hot coals, and let the beets stew for a quarter of an hour.
+
+TO BOIL GREEN OR FRENCH BEANS.
+
+These beans should be young, tender, and fresh gathered. Remove the
+strings with a knife, and take off both ends of the bean. Then cut them
+in two or three pieces only; for if split or cut very small, they
+become watery and lose much of their taste. They look best when cut
+slanting. As you cut them, throw them into a pan of cold water, and let
+them lay awhile. Boil them an hour and a half. They must be perfectly
+tender before you take them up. Then drain and press them well, season
+them with pepper, and mix into them a piece of butter.
+
+SCARLET BEANS.
+
+It is not generally known that the pod of the scarlet bean, if green
+and young, is extremely nice when cut into three or four pieces and
+boiled. They will require near two hours, and must be drained well, and
+mixed as before mentioned with butter and pepper. If gathered at the
+proper time, when the seed is just perceptible, they are superior to
+any of the common beans.
+
+LIMA BEANS.
+
+These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should be
+gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and then
+boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft. Drain them
+well, and add to them some butter and a little pepper.
+
+They are destroyed by the first frost, but can be kept during the
+winter, by gathering them on a dry day when full grown but not the
+least hard, and putting them in their pods into a keg. Throw some salt
+into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a layer of the bean-pods;
+then add more salt, and then another layer of beans, till the keg is
+full. Press them down with a heavy weight, cover the keg closely, and
+keep it in a cool dry place. Before you use them, soak the pods all
+night in cold water; the next day shell them, and soak the beans till
+you are ready to boil them.
+
+DRIED BEANS.
+
+Wash them and lay them in soak over night. Early in the morning put
+them into a pot with plenty of water, and boil them slowly till dinner
+time. They will require seven or eight hours to be sufficiently done.
+Then take them off, put them into a sieve, and strain off the liquid.
+
+Send the beans to table in a deep dish, seasoned with pepper, and
+having a piece of butter mixed with them.
+
+GREEN PEAS.
+
+Green peas are unfit for eating after they become hard and yellowish;
+but they are better when nearly full grown than when very small and
+young. They should be gathered as short a time as possible before they
+are cooked, and laid in cold water as soon as they are shelled. They
+will require about an hour to boil soft. When quite done, drain them,
+mix with them a piece of butter, and add a little pepper.
+
+Peas may be greatly improved by boiling with them two or three lumps of
+loaf-sugar, and a sprig of mint to be taken out before they are dished.
+This is an English way of cooking green peas, and is to most tastes a
+very good one.
+
+TO BOIL ONIONS.
+
+Take off the tops and tails, and the thin outer skin; but no more lest
+the onions should go to pieces. Lay them on the bottom of a pan which
+is broad enough to contain them without piling one on another; just
+cover them with water, and let them simmer slowly till they are tender
+all through, but not till they break.
+
+Serve them up with melted butter.
+
+TO ROAST ONIONS.
+
+Onions are best when parboiled before roasting. Take large onions,
+place them on a hot hearth and roast them before the fire in their
+skins, turning them as they require it. Then peel them, send them to
+table whole, and eat them with butter and salt.
+
+TO FRY ONIONS.
+
+Peel, slice them, and fry them brown in butter or nice dripping.
+
+Onions should be kept in a very dry place, as dampness injures them.
+
+TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.
+
+Large or full grown asparagus is the best. Before you begin to prepare
+it for cooking, set on the fire a pot with plenty of water, and
+sprinkle into it a handful of salt. Your asparagus should be all of the
+same size. Scrape the stalks till they are perfectly nice and white;
+cut them all of equal length, and short, so as to leave them but two or
+three inches below the green part. To serve up asparagus with long
+stalks is now becoming obsolete. As you scrape them, throw them into a
+pan of cold water. Then tie them up in small bundles with bass or tape,
+as twine will cut them to pieces. When the water is boiling fast, put
+in the asparagus, and boil it an hour; if old it will require an hour
+and a quarter. When it is nearly done boiling, toast a large slice of
+bread sufficient to cover the dish (first cutting off the crust) and
+dip it into the asparagus water in the pot. Lay it in a dish, and,
+having drained the asparagus, place it on the toast with all the heads
+pointed inwards towards the centre, and the stalks spreading outwards.
+Serve up melted butter with it.
+
+SEA KALE.
+
+Sea kale is prepared, boiled, and served up in the same manner as
+asparagus.
+
+POKE.
+
+The young stalks and leaves of the poke-berry plant when quite small
+and first beginning to sprout up from the ground in the spring, are by
+most persons considered very nice, and are frequently brought to
+market. If the least too old they acquire a strong taste, and should
+not be eaten, as they then become unwholesome. They are in a proper
+state when the part of the stalk nearest to the ground is not thicker
+than small asparagus. Scrape the stalks, (letting the leaves remain on
+them,) and throw them into cold water. Then tie up the poke in bundles,
+put it into a pot that has plenty of boiling water, and let it boil
+fast an hour at least. Serve it up with or without toast, and send
+melted butter with, it in a boat.
+
+STEWED TOMATAS.
+
+Peel your tomatas, cut them in half and squeeze out the seeds. Then put
+them into a stew-pan without any water, and add to them cayenne and
+salt to your taste, (and if you choose,) a little minced onion, and
+some powdered mace, Stew them slowly till they are first dissolved and
+then dry.
+
+BAKED TOMATAS
+
+Peel some large fine tomatas, cut them up, and take out the seeds. Then
+put them into a deep dish in alternate layers with grated bread-crumbs,
+and a very little butter in small bits. There must be a large
+proportion of bread-crumbs. Season the whole with a little salt, and
+cayenne pepper. Set it in an oven, and bake it. In cooking tomatas,
+take care not to have them too liquid.
+
+MUSHROOMS.
+
+Good mushrooms are only found in clear open fields where the air is
+pure and unconfined. Those that grow in low damp ground, or in shady
+places, are always poisonous. Mushrooms of the proper sort generally
+appear in August and September, after a heavy dew or a misty night.
+They may be known by their being of a pale pink or salmon colour on the
+gills or under side, while the top is of a dull pearl-coloured white;
+and by their growing only in open places. When they are a day old, or a
+few hours after they are gathered, the reddish colour changes to brown.
+
+The poisonous or false mushrooms are of various colours, sometimes of a
+bright yellow or scarlet all over; sometimes entirely of a chalky white
+stalk, top, and gills.
+
+It is easy to detect a bad mushroom if all are quite fresh; but after
+being gathered a few hours the colours change, so that unpractised
+persons frequently mistake them.
+
+It is said that if you boil an onion among mushrooms the onion will
+turn of a bluish black when there is a bad one among them. Of course,
+the whole should then be thrown into the fire. If in stirring
+mushrooms, the colour of the silver spoon is changed, it is also most
+prudent to destroy them all.
+
+TO STEW MUSHROOMS.
+
+For this purpose the small button mushrooms are best. Wash them clean,
+peel off the skin, and cut off the stalks. Put the trimmings into a
+small sauce-pan with just enough water to keep them from burning, and,
+covering them closely, let them stew a quarter of an hour. Then strain
+the liquor, and having put the mushrooms into a clean sauce-pan, (a
+silver one, or one lined with porcelain,) add the liquid to them with a
+little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
+Stew them fifteen minutes, and just before you take them up, stir in a
+very little cream or rich milk and some beaten yolk of egg. Serve them
+hot. While they are cooking, keep the pan as closely covered as
+possible.
+
+If you wish to have the full taste of the mushroom only, after washing,
+trimming, and peeling them, put them into a stew-pan with a little salt
+and no water. Set them on coals, and stew them slowly till tender,
+adding nothing to them but a little butter rolled in flour, or else a
+little cream. Be sure to keep the pan well covered.
+
+BROILED MUSHROOMS.
+
+For this purpose take large mushrooms, and be careful to have them
+freshly gathered. Peel them, score the under side, and cut off the
+stems. Lay them one by one in an earthen pan, brushing them over with
+sweet oil or oiled butter, and sprinkling each with a little pepper and
+salt. Cover them closely, and let them set for about an hour and a
+half. Then place them on a gridiron over clear hot coals, and broil
+them on both sides.
+
+Make a gravy for them of their trimmings stewed in a very little water,
+strained and thickened with a beaten egg stirred in just before it goes
+to table.
+
+BOILED RICE.
+
+Pick your rice clean, and wash it in two cold waters, not draining off
+the last water till you are ready to put the rice on the fire. Prepare
+a sauce-pan of water with a little salt in it, and when it boils,
+sprinkle in the rice. Boil it hard twenty minutes, keeping it covered.
+Then take it from the fire, and pour off the water. Afterwards set the
+sauce-pan in the chimney-corner with the lid off, while you are dishing
+your dinner, to allow the rice to dry, and the grains to separate.
+
+Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and every grain
+ought to stand alone. If badly managed, it will, when brought to table,
+be a grayish watery mass.
+
+In most southern families, rice, is boiled every day for the dinner
+table, and eaten with the meat and poultry.
+
+The above is a Carolina receipt.
+
+TO DRESS LETTUCE AS SALAD.
+
+Strip off the outer leaves, wash the lettuce, split it in half, and lay
+it in cold water till dinner time. Then drain it and put it into a
+salad dish. Have ready two eggs boiled hard, (which they will be in
+twelve minutes,) and laid in a basin of cold water for five minutes to
+prevent the whites from turning blue. Cut them in half, and lay them on
+the lettuce.
+
+Put the yolks of the eggs on a large plate, and with a wooden spoon
+mash them smooth, mixing with them a table-spoonful of water, and two
+table-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Then add, by degrees, a salt-spoonful of
+salt, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
+loaf-sugar. When these are all smoothly united, add very gradually
+three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. The lettuce having been cut up fine
+on another plate, put it to the dressing, and mix it well.
+
+If you have the dressing for salad made before a dinner, put it into
+the bottom of the salad dish; then (having cut it up) lay the salad
+upon it, and let it rest till it is to be eaten, as stirring it will
+injure it.
+
+You may decorate the top of the salad with slices of red beet, and with
+the hard white of the eggs cut into rings.
+
+CELERY.
+
+Scrape and wash it well, and let it lie in cold water till shortly
+before it goes to table; then dry it in a cloth, trim it, and split
+down the stalks almost to the bottom, leaving on a few green leaves.
+Send it to table in a celery glass, and eat it with salt only; or chop
+it fine, and make a salad dressing for it.
+
+RADISHES.
+
+To prepare radishes for eating, wash them and lay them in clean cold
+water as soon as they are brought in. Shortly before they go to table,
+scrape off the thin outside skin, trim the sharp end, cut off the
+leaves at the top, leaving the stalks about an inch long, and put them
+on a small dish. Eat them with salt.
+
+Radishes should not be eaten the day after they are pulled, as they are
+extremely unwholesome if not quite fresh.
+
+The thick white radishes, after being scraped and trimmed, should be
+split or cleft in four, half way down from the top.
+
+TO ROAST CHESTNUTS.
+
+The large Spanish chestnuts are the best for roasting. Cut a slit in
+the shell of every one to prevent their bursting when hot. Put them
+into a pan, and set them over a charcoal furnace till they are
+thoroughly roasted; stirring them up frequently and taking care hot to
+let them burn. When they are done, peel off the shells, and send the
+chestnuts to table wrapped up in a napkin to keep them warm.
+
+Chestnuts should always be roasted or boiled before they are eaten.
+
+GROUND-NUTS.
+
+These nuts are never eaten raw. Put them, with their shells on, into an
+iron pan, and set them in an oven; or you may do them in a skillet on
+hot coals. A large quantity may be roasted in an iron pot over the
+fire. Stir them frequently, taking one out from time to time, and
+breaking it to try if they are done.
+
+
+
+
+EGGS, ETC.
+
+
+TO KEEP EGGS.
+
+There is no infallible mode of ascertaining the freshness of an egg
+before you break it, but unless an egg is perfectly good, it is unfit
+for any purpose whatever, and will spoil whatever it is mixed with. You
+may judge with tolerable accuracy of the state of an egg by holding it
+against the sun or the candle, and if the yolk, as you see it through
+the shell, appears round, and the white thin and clear, it is most
+probably a good one; but if the yolk looks broken, and the white thick
+and cloudy, the egg is certainly bad. You may try the freshness of eggs
+by putting them into a pan of cold water. Those that sink the soonest
+are the freshest; those that are stale or addled will float on the
+surface.
+
+There are various ways of preserving eggs. To keep them merely for
+plain boiling, you may parboil them for one minute, and then bury them
+in powdered charcoal with their small ends downward. They will keep a
+few days in ajar of salt; but do not afterwards use the salt in which
+they have been immersed.
+
+They are frequently preserved for two or three months by greasing them
+all over, when quite fresh, with melted mutton suet, and then wedging
+them close together (the small end downwards) in a box of bran, layer
+above layer; the box must be closely covered.
+
+Another way (and a very good one) is to put some lime in a large
+vessel, and slack it with boiling water, till it is of the consistence
+of thin cream; you may allow a gallon of water to a pound of lime. When
+it is cold, pour it off into a large stone jar, put in the eggs, and
+cover the jar closely. See that the eggs are always well covered with
+the lime-water, and lest they should break, avoid moving the jar. If
+you have hens of your own, keep a jar of lime-water always ready, and
+put in the eggs as they are brought in from the nests. Jars that hold
+about six quarts are the most convenient.
+
+It will be well to renew the lime-water occasionally.
+
+TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST.
+
+The fresher they are the longer time they will require for boiling. If
+you wish them quite soft, put them into a sauce-pan of water that is
+boiling hard at the moment, and let them remain in it five minutes. The
+longer they boil the harder they will be. In ten minutes’ fast boiling
+they will be hard enough for salad.
+
+If you use one of the tin egg-boilers that are placed on the table, see
+that the water is boiling hard at the time you put in the eggs. When
+they have been in about four or five minutes, take them out, pour off
+the water, and replace it by some more that is boiling hard; as, from
+the coldness of the eggs having chilled the first water, they will not
+otherwise be done enough. The boiler may then be placed on the table,
+(keeping the lid closed,) and in a few minutes more they will be
+sufficiently cooked to be wholesome.
+
+TO POACH EGGS.
+
+Pour some boiling water out of a tea kettle through a clean cloth
+spread over the top of a broad stew-pan; for by observing this process
+the eggs will be nicer and more easily done than when its impurities
+remain in the water. Set the pan with the strained water on hot coals,
+and when it boils break each egg separately into a saucer. Remove the
+pan from the fire, and slip the eggs one by one into the surface of the
+water. Let the pan stand till the white of the eggs is set; then place
+it again on the coals, and as soon as the water boils again, the eggs
+will be sufficiently done. Take them out carefully with an egg-slice,
+and trim off all the ragged edges from the white, which should thinly
+cover the yolk. Have ready some thin slices of buttered toast with the
+crust cut off. Lay them in the bottom of the dish, with a poached egg
+on each slice of toast, and send them to the breakfast table.
+
+FRICASSEED EGGS.
+
+Take a dozen eggs, and boil them six or seven minutes, or till they are
+just hard enough to peel and slice without breaking. Then put them into
+a pan of cold water while you prepare some grated bread-crumbs,
+(seasoned with pepper, salt and nutmeg,) and beat the yolks of two or
+three raw eggs very light. Take the boiled eggs out of the water, and
+having peeled off the shells, slice the eggs, dust a little flour over
+them, and dip them first into the beaten egg, and then into the
+bread-crumbs so as to cover them well on both sides. Have ready in a
+frying-pan some boiling lard; put the sliced eggs into it, and fry them
+on both sides. Serve them up at the breakfast table, garnished with
+small sprigs of parsley that has been fried in the same lard after the
+eggs were taken out.
+
+PLAIN OMELET.
+
+Take six eggs, leaving out the whites of two. Beat them very light, and
+strain them through a sieve. Add pepper and salt to your taste. Divide
+two ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and put it into the egg.
+Have ready a quarter of a pound of butter in a frying-pan, or a flat
+stew-pan. Place it on hot coals, and have the butter boiling when you
+put in the beaten egg. Fry it gently till of a light brown on the under
+side. Do not turn it while cooking as it will do better without. You
+may brown the top by holding a hot shovel over it. When done, lay it in
+the dish, double it in half, and stick sprigs of curled parsley over
+it.
+
+You may flavour the omelet by mixing with the beaten egg some parsley
+or sweet herbs minced fine, some chopped celery, or chopped onion,
+allowing two moderate sized onions to an omelet of six eggs. Or what is
+still better, it may be seasoned with veal kidney or sweet-bread
+minced; with cold ham shred as fine as possible; or with minced
+oysters, (the hard part omitted,) with tops of asparagus (that has been
+previously boiled) cut into small pieces.
+
+You should have one of the pans that are made purposely for omelets.
+
+AN OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.
+
+Break eight eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and strain them.
+Put the whites into one pan, and the yolks into another, and beat them
+separately with rods till the yolks are very thick and smooth, and the
+whites a stiff froth that will stand alone. Then add gradually to the
+yolks, three quarters of a pound of the finest powdered loaf-sugar, and
+orange-flower water or lemon-juice to your taste. Next stir the whites
+lightly into the yolks. Butter a deep pan or dish (that has been
+previously heated) and pour the mixture rapidly into it. Set it in a
+Butch oven with coals under it, and on the top, and bake it five
+minutes. If properly beaten and mixed, and carefully baked, it will
+rise very high. Send it immediately to table, or it will fall and
+flatten.
+
+Do not begin to make an omelette soufflé till the company at table have
+commenced their dinner, that it may be ready to serve up just in time,
+immediately on the removal of the meats. The whole must be accomplished
+as quickly as possible, and it must be cut and sent round directly that
+it is brought to table.
+
+If you live in a large town, the safest way of avoiding a failure in an
+omelette soufflé is to hire a French cook to come to your kitchen with
+his own utensils and ingredients, and make and bake it himself, while
+the first part of the dinner is progressing in the dining room.
+
+An omelette soufflé is a very nice and delicate thing when properly
+managed; but if flat and heavy it should not be brought to table.
+
+TO DRESS MACCARONI.
+
+Have ready a pot of boiling water. Throw a little salt into it, and
+then by slow degrees put in a pound of the maccaroni, a little at a
+time. Keep stirring it gently, and continue to do so very often while
+boiling. Take care to keep it well covered with water. Have ready a
+kettle of boiling water to replenish the maccaroni pot if it should be
+in danger of getting too dry. In about twenty minutes it will be done.
+It must be quite soft, but it must not boil long enough to break.
+
+When the maccaroni has boiled sufficiently, pour in immediately a
+little cold water, and let it stand a few minutes, keeping it covered.
+
+Grate half a pound of Parmesan cheese into a deep dish, and scatter
+over it a few small bits of butter. Then with a skimmer that is
+perforated with holes, commence taking up the maccaroni, (draining it
+well,) and spread a layer of it over the cheese and butter. Spread over
+it another layer of grated cheese and butter, and then a layer of
+maccaroni and so on till your dish is full; having a layer of maccaroni
+on the top, over which spread some butter without cheese. Cover the
+dish, and set it in an oven for half an hour. It will then be ready to
+send to table.
+
+You may grate some nutmeg over each, layer of maccaroni.
+
+Allow half a pound of butter to a pound of maccaroni and half a pound
+of cheese.
+
+
+
+
+PICKLING
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+Never on any consideration use brass, copper, or bell-metal settles for
+pickling; the verdigris produced in them by the vinegar being of a most
+poisonous nature. Kettles lined with porcelain are the best, but if you
+cannot procure them, block tin may be substituted. Iron is apt to
+discolour any acid that is boiled in it.
+
+Vinegar for pickles should always be of the very best kind. In putting
+away pickles, use stone, or glass jars. The lead which is an ingredient
+in the glazing of common earthenware, is rendered very pernicious by
+the action of the vinegar. Have a large wooden spoon and a fork, for
+the express purpose of taking pickles out of the jar when you want them
+for the table. See that, while in the jar, they are always completely
+covered with vinegar. If you discern in them any symptoms of not
+keeping well, do them over again in fresh vinegar and spice.
+
+Vinegar for pickles should only boil five or six minutes.
+
+The jars should be stopped with large flat corks, fitting closely, and
+having a leather or a round piece of oil-cloth tied over the cork.
+
+It is a good rule to have two-thirds of the jar filled with pickles,
+and one-third with vinegar.
+
+Alum is very useful in extracting the salt taste from pickles, and in
+making them firm and crisp. A very small quantity is sufficient. Too
+much will spoil them.
+
+In greening pickles keep them very closely covered, so that none of the
+steam may escape; as its retention promotes their greenness and
+prevents the flavour from evaporating.
+
+Vinegar and spice for pickles should be boiled but a few minutes. Too
+much boiling takes away the strength.
+
+TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS.
+
+Cucumbers for pickling should be very small, and as free from spots as
+possible. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg.
+Pour it over your cucumbers, cover them with fresh cabbage leaves, and
+let them stand for a week, or till they are quite yellow, stirring them
+at least twice a day. When they are perfectly yellow, pour off the
+water. Take a porcelain kettle, and cover the bottom and sides with
+fresh vine leaves. Put in the cucumbers (with a small piece of alum)
+and cover them closely with vine leaves all over the top, and then with
+a dish or cloth to keep in the steam. Fill up the kettle with clear
+water, and hang it over the fire when dinner is done, but not where
+there is a blaze. The fire under the kettle must be kept very moderate.
+The water must not boil, or be too hot to bear your hand in. Keep them
+over the fire in a slow heat till next morning. If they are not then of
+a fine green, repeat the process. When they are well greened, take them
+out of the kettle, drain them on a sieve, and put them into a clean
+stone jar. Boil for five or six minutes sufficient of the best vinegar
+to cover the cucumbers well; putting into the kettle a thin muslin bag
+filled with cloves, mace, and mustard seed. Pour the vinegar scalding
+hot into the jar of pickles, which should be secured with a large flat
+cork, and an oil-cloth or leather cover tied over it. Another way to
+green pickles is to cover them with vine leaves or cabbage leaves, and
+to keep them on a warm, hearth pouring boiling water on them five or
+six times a day; renewing the water as soon as it becomes cold.
+
+In proportioning the spice to the vinegar, allow to every two quarts,
+an ounce of mace, two dozen cloves, and two ounces of mustard seed. You
+may leave the muslin bag, with the spice, for about a week in the
+pickle jar to heighten the flavour, if you think it necessary.
+
+GREEN PEPPERS.
+
+May be done in the same manner as cucumbers, only extracting the seeds
+before you put the pickles into the salt and water. Do not put peppers
+into the same jar with cucumbers, as the former will destroy the
+latter.
+
+GHERKINS.
+
+The gherkin is a small thick oval-shaped species of cucumber with a
+hairy or prickly surface, and is cultivated solely for pickling. It is
+customary to let the stems remain on them. Wipe them dry, put them into
+a broad stone jar, and scald them five or six times in the course of
+the day with salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and let them
+set all night. This will make them yellow. Next day, having drained
+them from the salt and water, throw it out, wipe them dry, put them
+into a clean vessel (with a little piece of alum,) and scald them with
+boiling vinegar and water, (half and half of each,) repeating it
+frequently during the day till they are green. Keep them as closely
+covered as possible. Then put them away in stone jars, mixing among
+them whole mace and sliced ginger to your taste. Fill up with cold
+vinegar, and add a little alum, allowing to every hundred gherkins a
+piece about the size of a shelled almond. The alum will make them firm
+and crisp.
+
+RADISH PODS.
+
+Gather sprigs or bunches of radish pods while they are young and
+tender, but let the pods remain on the sprigs; it not being the custom
+to pick them off. Put them into strong salt and water, and let them
+stand two days. Then drain and wipe them and put them into a clean
+stone jar. Boil an equal quantity of vinegar and water. Pour it over
+the radish pods while hot, and cover them closely to keep in the steam.
+Repeat this frequently through the day till they are very green. Then
+pour off the vinegar and water, and boil for five minutes some very
+strong vinegar, with a little bit of alum, and pour it over them. Put
+them into a stone jar, (and having added some whole mace, whole pepper,
+a little tumeric and a little sweet oil,) cork it closely, and tie over
+it a leather or oil-cloth.
+
+GREEN BEANS.
+
+Take young green or French beans; string them, but do not cut them in
+pieces. Pat them in salt and water for two days, stirring them
+frequently. Then put them into a kettle with vine or cabbage leaves
+under, over, and all round them, (adding a little piece of alum.) Cover
+them closely to keep in the steam, and let them hang over a slow fire
+till they are a fine green.
+
+Having drained them in a sieve, make for them a pickle of strong
+vinegar, and boil in it for five minutes, some mace, whole pepper, and
+sliced ginger tied up in a thin muslin bag. Pour it hot upon the beans,
+put them into a stone jar, and tie them up.
+
+PARSLEY.
+
+Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and throw
+into it a large quantity of curled parsley, tied up in little bunches
+with a thread. After it has stood a week (stirring it several times a
+day) take it out, drain it well, and lay it for three days in cold
+spring or pump-water, changing the water daily. Then scald it in hard
+water, and hang it, well covered, over a slow fire till it becomes
+green. Afterwards take it out, and drain and press it till quite dry.
+
+Boil for five minutes a quart of strong vinegar with a small bit of
+alum, a few blades of mace, a sliced nutmeg, and a few slips of
+horseradish. Pour it on the parsley, and put it away in a stone jar.
+
+MANGOES.
+
+Take very young oval shaped musk-melons. Cut a round piece out of the
+top or side of each, (saving the piece to put on again,) and extract
+the seeds. Then (having tied on the pieces with packthread) put them
+into strong salt and water for two days. Afterwards drain and wipe
+them, put them into a kettle with vine leaves or cabbage leaves under
+and over them, and a little piece of alum, and hang them on a slow fire
+to green; keeping them closely covered to retain the steam, which will
+greatly accelerate the greening. When they are quite green, have ready
+the stuffing, which must be a mixture of scraped horseradish, white
+mustard seed, mace and nutmeg pounded, race ginger cut small, pepper,
+tumeric and sweet oil. Fill your mangoes with this mixture, putting a
+small clove of garlic into each, and replacing the pieces at the
+openings; tie them with a packthread crossing backwards and forwards
+round the mango. Put them into stone jars, pour boiling vinegar over
+them, and cover them well. Before you put them on the table remove the
+packthread.
+
+NASTURTIANS.
+
+Have ready a stone or glass jar of the best cold vinegar. Take the
+green seeds of the nasturtian after the flower has gone off. They
+should be full-grown but not old. Pick off the stems, and put the seeds
+into the vinegar. No other preparation is necessary, and they will keep
+a year with nothing more than sufficient cold vinegar to cover them.
+With boiled mutton they are an excellent substitute for capers.
+
+MORELLA CHERRIES.
+
+See that all your cherries are perfect. Remove the stems, and put the
+cherries into a jar or glass with sufficient vinegar to cover them
+well. They will keep perfectly in a cool dry place.
+
+They are very good, always retaining the taste of the cherry. If you
+cannot procure morellas, the large red pie-cherries may be substituted.
+
+PEACHES.
+
+Take, fine large peaches (either cling or free stones) that are not too
+ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean flannel, and put the peaches whole
+into a stone jar. Cover them with cold vinegar of the best kind, in
+which you have dissolved a little of salt, allowing a table-spoonful to
+a quart of vinegar. Put a cork in the jar and tie leather or oil-cloth
+over it.
+
+Plums and grapes may be pickled thus in cold vinegar, but without salt.
+
+BARBERRIES.
+
+Have ready a jar of cold vinegar, and put into it ripe barberries in
+bunches. They make a pretty garnish for the edges of dishes.
+
+TO PICKLE GREEN PEPPERS.
+
+The bell pepper is the best for pickling, and should be gathered when
+quite young. Slit one side, and carefully take out the core, so as not
+to injure the shell of the pepper. Then put them into boiling salt and
+water, changing the water every day for one week, and keeping them
+closely covered in a warm place near the fire. Stir them several times
+a day. They will first become yellow, and then green. When they are a
+fine green put them into a jar, and pour cold vinegar over them, adding
+a small piece of alum.
+
+They require no spice.
+
+You may stuff the peppers as you do mangoes.
+
+TO PICKLE BUTTERNUTS.
+
+These nuts are in the best state for pickling when the shell is soft,
+and when they are so young that the outer skin can be penetrated by the
+head of a pin. They should be gathered when the sun is hot upon them.
+
+If you have a large quantity, the easiest way to prepare them for
+pickling is to put them into a tub with sufficient lye to cover them,
+and to stir and rub them about with a hickory broom, till they are
+clean and smooth on the outside. This is much less trouble than
+scraping them, and is not so likely to injure the nuts. Another method
+is to scald them, and then to rub off the outer skin. Put the nuts into
+strong salt and water for nine or ten days; changing the water every
+other day, and keeping them closely covered from the air. Then drain
+and wipe them, (piercing each nut through in several places with a
+large needle,) and prepare the pickle as follows:—For a hundred large
+nuts, take of black pepper and ginger root of each an ounce; and of
+cloves, mace and nutmeg of each a half ounce. Pound all the spices to
+powder, and mix them well together, adding two large spoonfuls of
+mustard seed. Put the nuts into jars, (having first stuck each of them
+through in several places with a large needle,) strewing the powdered
+seasoning between every layer of nuts. Boil for five minutes a gallon
+of the best white wine vinegar, and pour it boiling hot upon the nuts.
+Secure the jars closely with corks and leathers. You may begin to eat
+the nuts in a fortnight.
+
+Walnuts may be pickled in the same manner.
+
+TO PICKLE WALNUTS BLACK.
+
+The walnuts should he gathered while young and soft, (so that you can
+easily run a pin through them,) and when the sun is upon them. Rub them
+with a coarse flannel or tow cloth to get off the fur of the outside.
+Mix salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and let them lie in it
+nine days, (changing it every two days,) and stirring them, frequently.
+Then take them out, drain them, spread them on large dishes, and expose
+them to the air about ten minutes, which will cause them to blacken the
+sooner. Scald them in boiling water, (but do not let them lie in it,)
+and then rub them with a coarse woollen cloth, and pierce everyone
+through in several places with a large needle, (that the pickle may
+penetrate them thoroughly.) Put them into stone jars, and prepare the
+spice and vinegar. To a hundred walnuts allow a gallon of vinegar, an
+ounce of cloves, an ounce of allspice, an ounce of black pepper, half
+an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of nutmeg. Boil the spice in the
+vinegar for five or six minutes; then, strain the vinegar, and pour it
+boiling hot over the walnuts. Tie up in a thin muslin rag, a tea-cupful
+of mustard seed, and a large table-spoonful of scraped horseradish, and
+put it into the jars with the walnuts. Cover them closely with corks
+and leathers.
+
+Another way of pickling walnuts black, is (after preparing them as
+above) to put them into jars with the spices pounded and strewed among
+them, and then to pour over them strong cold vinegar.
+
+WALNUTS PICKLED WHITE.
+
+Take large young walnuts while their shells are quite soft so that you
+can stick the head of a pin into them. Pare them very thin till the
+white appears; and as you do them, throw them into spring or pump water
+in which some salt has been dissolved. Let them stand in that water six
+hours, with a thin board upon them to keep them down under the water.
+Fill a porcelain kettle with fresh spring water, and set it over a
+clear fire, or on a charcoal furnace. Put the walnuts into the kettle,
+cover it, and let them simmer (but not boil) for five or six minutes.
+Then have ready a vessel with cold spring water and salt, and put your
+nuts into it, taking them out of the kettle with a wooden ladle. Let
+them stand in the cold salt and water for a quarter of an hour, with
+the board keeping them down as before; for if they rise above the
+liquor, or are exposed to the air, they will be discoloured. Then take,
+them out, and lay them on a cloth covered with another, till they are
+quite dry. Afterwards rub them carefully with a soft flannel, and put
+them into a stone jar; laying among them blades of mace, and sliced
+nutmeg, but no dark-coloured spice. Pour over them the best distilled
+vinegar, and put on the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil.
+
+WALNUTS PICKLED GREEN.
+
+Gather them while the shells are very soft, and rub them all with a
+flannel. Then wrap them singly in vine leaves, lay a few vine leaves in
+the bottom of a large stone jar, put in the walnuts, (seeing that each
+of them is well wrapped up so as not to touch one another,) and cover
+them with a thick layer of leaves. Fill up the jar with strong vinegar,
+cover it closely, and let it stand three weeks. Then pour off the
+vinegar, take out the walnuts, renew all the vine leaves, fill up with
+fresh vinegar, and let them stand three weeks longer. Then again pour
+off the vinegar, and renew the vine leaves. This time take the best
+white wine vinegar; put salt in it till it will bear an egg, and add to
+it mace, sliced nutmeg, and scraped horseradish, in the proportion of
+an ounce of each and a gallon of vinegar to a hundred walnuts. Boil the
+spice and vinegar about eight minutes, and then pour it hot on the
+walnuts. Cover the jar closely with a cork and leather, and set it
+away, leaving the vine leaves with the walnuts. When you take any out
+for use, disturb the others as little as possible, and do not put back
+again any that may be left.
+
+You may pickle butternuts green in the same manner.
+
+TO PICKLE ONIONS.
+
+Take very small onions, and with a sharp knife cut off the stems as
+close as possible, and peel off the outer skin. Then put them into salt
+and water, and let them stand in the brine for six days; stirring them
+daily, and changing the salt and water every two days. See that they
+are closely covered. Then put the onions into jars, and give them a
+scald in boiling salt and water. Let them stand till they are cold;
+then drain them on a sieve, wipe them, stick a clove in the top of each
+and put them into wide-mouthed bottles; dispersing among them some
+blades of mace and slices of ginger or nutmeg. Fill up the bottles with
+the best white wine vinegar, and put at the top a large spoonful of
+salad oil. Cork the bottles well.
+
+ONIONS PICKLED WHITE.
+
+Peel some very small white onions, and lay them for three days in salt
+and water changing the water every day. Then wipe them, and put them
+into a porcelain kettle with equal quantities of milk and water,
+sufficient to cover them well. Simmer them over a slow fire, but when
+just ready to boil take them off, and drain and dry them, and put them
+into wide-mouthed glass bottles; interspersing them with blades of
+mace. Boil a sufficient quantity of distilled white wine vinegar to
+cover them and fill up the bottles, adding to it a little salt; and
+when it is cold, pour it into the bottles of onions. At the top of each
+bottle put a spoonful of sweet oil. Set them away closely corked.
+
+TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS WHITE.
+
+Take small fresh-gathered button mushrooms, peel them carefully with a
+penknife, and cut off the stems; throwing the mushrooms into salt and
+water as you do them. Then put them into a porcelain skillet of fresh
+water, cover it closely, and set it over a quick fire. Boil it as fast
+as possible for seven or eight minutes, not more. Take out the
+mushrooms, drain them, and spread them on a clean board, with the
+bottom or hollow side of each mushroom turned downwards. Do this as
+quickly as possible, and immediately, while they are hot, sprinkle them
+over with salt. When they are cold, put them into a glass jar with
+slight layers of mace and sliced ginger. Fill up the jar with cold
+distilled or white wine vinegar. Put a spoonful of sweet oil on the top
+of each jar, and cork it closely.
+
+MUSHROOMS PICKLED BROWN.
+
+Take a quart of large mushrooms and (having trimmed off the stalks) rub
+them with a flannel cloth dipped in salt. Then lay them in a pan of
+allegar or ale vinegar, for a quarter of an hour, and wash them about
+in it. Then pat them into a sauce-pan with a quart of allegar, a
+quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of allspice and whole pepper,
+and a tea-spoonful of salt. Set the pan over coals, and let the
+mushrooms stew slowly for ten minutes, keeping the pan well covered.
+Then take them off, let them get cold by degrees, and put them into
+small bottles with the allegar strained from the spice and poured upon
+them.
+
+It will be prudent to boil an onion with the mushrooms, and if it turns
+black or blueish, you may infer that there is a poisonous one among
+them; and they should therefore be thrown away. Stir them for the same
+reason, with a silver spoon.
+
+TO PICKLE TOMATAS.
+
+Take a peck of tomatas, (the small round ones are best for pickling,)
+and prick every one with a fork. Put them into a broad stone or earthen
+vessel, and sprinkle salt between every layer of tomatas. Cover them,
+and let them remain three days in the salt. Then put them into vinegar
+and water mixed in equal quantities, half and half, and keep them in it
+twenty-four hours to draw out the saltness. There must be sufficient of
+the liquid to cover the tomatas well.
+
+To a peck of tomatas allow a bottle of mustard, half an ounce of
+cloves, and half an ounce of pepper, with a dozen onions sliced thin.
+Pack the tomatas in a stone jar, placing the spices and onions
+alternately with the layers of tomatas. Put them in till the jar is
+two-thirds fall. Then fill it up with strong cold vinegar, and stop it
+closely. The pickles will be fit to eat in a fortnight.
+
+If you do not like onions, substitute for them a larger quantity of
+spice.
+
+TOMATA SOY.
+
+For this purpose you must have the best and ripest tomatas, and they
+must be gathered on a dry day. Do not peel them, but merely cut them
+into slices. Having strewed some salt over the bottom of a tub, put in
+the tomatas in layers; sprinkling between each layer (which, should be
+about two inches in thickness) a half pint of salt. Repeat this till
+you have put in eight quarts or one peck of tomatas. Cover the tub and
+let it set for three days. Then early in the morning, put the tomatas
+into a large porcelain, kettle, and boil it slowly and steadily till
+ten at night, frequently mashing and stirring the tomatas. Then put it
+out to cool. Next morning strain and press it through a sieve, and when
+no more liquid will pass through, put it into a clean kettle with two
+ounces of cloves, one ounce of mace, two ounces of blade pepper, and
+two table-spoonfuls of cayenne, all powdered.
+
+Again let it boil slowly and steadily all day, and put it to cool in
+the evening in a large pan. Cover it, and let it set all night. Next
+day put it into small bottles, securing the corks by dipping them in
+melted rosin, and tying leathers over them.
+
+If made exactly according to these directions, and slowly and
+thoroughly boiled, it will keep for years in a cool dry place, and may
+be used for many purposes when fresh tomatas are not to be had.
+
+TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS.
+
+Take the whitest and closest full-grown cauliflowers; cut off the thick
+stalk, and split the blossom or flower part into eight or ten pieces.
+Spread them oh a large dish, sprinkle them with salt, and let them
+stand twenty-four hours. Then wash off the salt, drain them, put them
+into a broad flat jar or pan, scald them with salt and water, (allowing
+a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water,) cover them closely
+and let them stand in the brine till next day. Afterwards drain them in
+a hair sieve, and spread them on a cloth in a warm place to dry for a
+day and a night. Then put them carefully, piece by piece, into clean
+broad jars and pour over them a pickle which has been prepared as
+follows:—Mix together three ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of
+turmeric, one ounce of mustard seed, and one ounce of ginger. Pound the
+whole in a mortar to a fine powder. Put it into three quarts of the
+best white wine vinegar, set it by the side of the fire in a stone jar,
+and let it infuse three days. These are the proportions, but the
+quantity of the whole pickle must depend on the quantity of
+cauliflower, which must he kept well covered by the liquid. Pour it
+over the cauliflower, and secure the jars closely from the air.
+
+You may pickle brocoli in the same manner. Also the green tops of
+asparagus.
+
+TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.
+
+Take a fine firm cabbage of a deep red or purple colour. Strip off the
+outer leaves, and cut out the stalk. Quarter the cabbage lengthways,
+and then slice it crossways. Lay it in a deep dish, sprinkle a handful
+of salt over it, cover it with another dish, and let it lie twenty-four
+hours. Then drain it in a cullender from the salt, and wipe it dry.
+Make a pickle of sufficient white wine vinegar to cover the cabbage
+well, adding to it equal quantities of cloves and allspice, with some
+mace. The spices must be put in whole, with a little cochineal to give
+it a good red colour. Boil the vinegar and spices hard for five
+minutes, and having put the cabbage into a stone jar, pour the vinegar
+over it boiling hot. Cover the jar with a cloth till it gets cold; and
+then put in a large cork, and tie a leather over it.
+
+COLD SLAW.
+
+[Footnote: This receipt was accidentally omitted in its proper place.]
+
+Take a nice fresh cabbage, wash and drain it, and cut off all the
+stalk. Shave down the head into very small slips, with a cabbage
+cutter, or a very sharp knife. It must be done evenly and nicely. Put
+it into a deep china dish, and prepare for it the following dressing.
+Melt in a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with half a pint of
+water, a large table-spoonful of vinegar, a salt-spoon of salt, and a
+little cayenne. Give this a boil up, and pour it hot upon the cabbage.
+
+Send it to table as soon as it is cold.
+
+WARM SLAW.
+
+Cut the cabbage into shavings as for cold slaw; (red cabbage is best;)
+and put it into a deep earthen dish. Cover it closely, and set it on
+the top of a stove, or in a slack oven for half an hour till it is warm
+all through; but do not let it get so heated as to boil. Then make a
+mixture as for cold slaw, of a quarter of a pound of butter, half a
+pint of water, a little salt and cayenne, and add to it a clove of
+garlic minced fine. Boil this mixture in a sauce-pan, and pour it hot
+over the warm cabbage. Send it to table immediately.
+
+This is a French method of dressing cabbage.
+
+EAST INDIA PICKLE.
+
+This is a mixture of various things pickled together, and put into the
+same jar.
+
+Have ready a small white cabbage, sliced, and the stalk removed; a
+cauliflower cut into neat branches, leaving out the large stalk; sliced
+cucumbers; sliced carrots; sliced beets, (all nicked round the edges;)
+button-onions; string-beans; radish pods; barberries; cherries; green
+grapes; nasturtians; capsicums; bell-peppers, &c. Sprinkle all these
+things with salt, put them promiscuously into a large earthen pan, and
+pour scalding salt and water over them. Let them lie in the brine for
+four days, turning them all over every day. Then take them out, wash
+each thing separately in vinegar, and wipe them carefully in a cloth.
+Afterwards lay them on sieves before the fire and dry them thoroughly.
+
+For the pickle liquor.—To every two quarts of the best vinegar, put an
+ounce and a half of white ginger root, scraped and sliced; the same of
+long pepper; two ounces of peeled shalots, or little button-onions, cut
+in pieces; half an ounce of peeled garlic; an ounce of-turmeric; and
+two ounces of mustard seed bruised, or of mustard powder. Let all these
+ingredients, mixed with the vinegar, infuse in a close jar for a week,
+setting in a warm place, or by the fire. Then (after the vegetables
+have been properly prepared, and dried from the brine) put them all
+into one large stone jar, or into smaller jars, and strain the pickle
+over them. The liquid must be in a large quantity, so as to keep the
+vegetables well covered with it, or they will spoil. Put a
+table-spoonful of sweet oil on the top of each jar, and secure them
+well with a large cork and a leather.
+
+If you find that after awhile the vegetables have absorbed the liquor,
+so that there is danger of their not having a sufficiency, prepare some
+more seasoned vinegar and pour it over them.
+
+East India pickle is very convenient, and will keep two years. As
+different vegetables come into season, you can prepare them with the
+salt and water process, and add them to the things already in the jar.
+You may put small mangoes into this pickle; also plums, peaches and
+apricots.
+
+TO PICKLE OYSTERS FOR KEEPING.
+
+For this purpose take none but the finest and largest oysters. After
+they are opened, separate them from their liquor, and put them into a
+bucket or a large pan, and pour boiling water upon them to take out the
+slime. Stir them about in it, and then take them out, and rinse them
+well in cold water. Then put them into a large kettle with fresh water,
+barely enough to cover them, (mixing with it a table-spoonful of salt
+to every hundred oysters,) and give them a boil up, just sufficient to
+plump them. Take them, out, spread them on large dishes or on a clean
+table, and cover them with a cloth. Take the liquor of the oysters, and
+with every pint of it mix a quart of the best vinegar, a table-spoonful
+of salt, a table-spoonful of whole cloves, the same of whole black
+pepper, and a tea-spoonful of whole mace. Put the liquid over the fire
+in a kettle, and when it boils throw in the oysters, and let them
+remain in it five minutes. Then take the whole off the fire, stir it up
+well, and let it stand to get quite cold. Afterwards (if you have a
+large quantity) put it into a keg, which must first be well scalded, (a
+new keg is best,) and fill it as full as it can hold. Do not put a
+weight on the oysters to keep them down in the liquor, as it will crush
+them to pieces if the keg should be moved or conveyed to a distance. If
+you have not enough to fill a keg, put them into stone jars when they
+are perfectly cold, and cover them securely.
+
+
+
+
+SWEETMEATS.
+
+
+GENERAL REMARKS.
+
+The introduction of iron ware lined with porcelain has fortunately
+almost superseded the use of brass or bell-metal kettles for boiling
+sweetmeats; a practice by which the articles prepared in those
+pernicious utensils were always more or less imbued with the
+deleterious qualities of the verdigris that is produced in them by the
+action of acids.
+
+Charcoal furnaces will be found very convenient for preserving; the
+kettles being set on the top. They can be used in the open air.
+Sweetmeats should be boiled rather quickly, that the watery particles
+may exhale at once, without being subjected to so long a process as to
+spoil the colour and diminish the flavour of the fruit. But on the
+other hand, if boiled too short a time they will not keep so well.
+
+If you wish your sweetmeats to look bright and clear, use only the very
+best loaf-sugar. Fruit may be preserved for family use and for common
+purposes, in sugar of inferior quality, but it will never have a good
+appearance, and it is also more liable to spoil.
+
+If too small a proportion of sugar is allowed to the fruit, it will
+_certainly_ not keep well. When this experiment is tried it is
+generally found to be false economy; as sweetmeats, when they begin to
+spoil, can only be recovered and made eatable by boiling them over
+again with additional sugar; and even then, they are never so good as
+if done properly at first. If jellies have not sufficient sugar, they
+do not congeal, but will remain liquid.
+
+Jelly bags should be made of white flannel. It is well to have a wooden
+stand or frame like a towel horse, to which the bag can be tied while
+it is dripping. The bag should first be dipped in hot water, for if dry
+it will absorb too much of the juice. After the liquor is all in, close
+the top of the bag, that none of the flavour may evaporate.
+
+In putting away sweetmeats, it is best to place them in small jars, as
+the more frequently they are exposed to the air by opening the more
+danger there is of their spoiling. The best vessels for this purpose
+are white queen’s-ware pots, or glass jars. For jellies, jams, and for
+small fruit, common glass tumblers are very convenient, and may be
+covered simply with double tissue-paper, cut exactly to fit the inside
+of the top of the glass, laid lightly on the sweetmeat, and pressed
+down all round with the finger. This covering, if closely and nicely
+fitted, will be found to keep them perfectly well, and as it adheres so
+closely as to form a complete coat over the top, it is better for
+jellies or jams than writing-paper dipped in brandy, which is always
+somewhat shrivelled by the liquor with which it has been saturated.
+
+If you find that your sweetmeats have become dry and candied, you may
+liquefy them again by setting the jars in water and making it boil
+round them.
+
+In preserving fruit whole, it is best to put it first in a thin syrup.
+If boiled in a thick syrup at the beginning, the juice will be drawn
+out so as to shrink the fruit.
+
+It is better to boil it but a short time at once, and then to take it
+out and let it get cold, afterwards returning it to the syrup, than to
+keep it boiling; too long at a time, which will cause it to break and
+lose its shape.
+
+Preserving kettles should be rather broad than deep, for the fruit
+cannot be done equally if it is too much heaped. They should all have
+covers belonging to them, to put on after the scum has done rising that
+the flavour of the fruit may be kept in with the steam.
+
+A perforated skimmer pierced all through with holes is a very necessary
+utensil in making sweetmeats.
+
+The water used for melting the sugar should be very clear; spring or
+pump water is best. but if you are obliged to use river water, let it
+first be filtered. Any turbidness or impurity in the water will injure
+the clearness of the sweetmeats.
+
+If sweetmeats ferment in the jars, boil them over again with additional
+sugar.
+
+CLARIFIED SUGAR SYRUP.
+
+Take eight pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar, and break it
+up or powder it. Have ready the whites of two eggs, beaten to a strong
+froth. Stir the white of egg gradually into two quarts of very clear
+spring or pump water. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, and mix
+with it the water and white of egg. While the sugar is melting, stir it
+frequently; and when it is entirely dissolved, put the kettle over a
+moderate fire, and let it boil, carefully taking off the scum as it
+comes to the top, and pouring in a little cold water when you find the
+syrup rising so as to run over the edge of the kettle. It will be well
+when it first boils hard to pour in half a pint of cold water to keep
+down the bubbles so that the scum may appear, and be easily removed.
+You must not however boil it to candy height, so that the bubbles will
+look like hard pearls, and the syrup will harden in the spoon and hang
+from it in strings; for though very thick and clear it must continue
+liquid. When it is done, let it stand till it gets quite cold; and if
+you do not want it for immediate use, put it into bottles and seal the
+corks.
+
+When you wish to use this syrup for preserving, you have only to put
+the fruit into it, and boil it till tender and clear, but not till it
+breaks. Large fruit that is done whole, should first be boiled tender
+in a very thin syrup that it may not shrink. Small fruit, such as
+raspberries, strawberries, grapes, currants, gooseberries, &c. may, if
+perfectly ripe, be put raw into strong cold sugar syrup; they will thus
+retain their form and colour, and then freshness and natural taste.
+They must be put into small glass jars, and kept well covered with the
+syrup. This, however, is an experiment which sometimes fails, and had
+best be tried on a scale, or only for immediate use.
+
+TO PRESERVE GINGER.
+
+Take root of green ginger, and pare it neatly with a sharp knife,
+throwing it into a pan of cold water as you pare it. Then boil it till
+tender all through, changing the water three times. Each time put on
+the ginger is quite cold water to lake out the excessive heat. When it
+is perfectly tender, throw it again into a pan of cold water, and let
+it lie an hour or more; this will make it crisp. In the mean time
+prepare the syrup. For every six pounds of ginger root, clarify seven
+pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar. Break up the sugar, put
+it into a preserving kettle, and melt it in spring or pump water, (into
+which you have stirred gradually the beaten white of two eggs,)
+allowing a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Boil and skim it well.
+Then let the syrup stand till it is cold; and having drained the
+ginger, pour the syrup over it, cover it, and do not disturb it for two
+days. Then, having poured it from the ginger, boil the syrup over
+again. As soon as it is cold, pour it again on the ginger, and let it
+stand at least three days. Afterwards boil the syrup again, and pour it
+_hot_ over the ginger. Proceed in this manner till you find that the
+syrup has thoroughly penetrated the ginger, (which you may ascertain by
+its taste and appearance when you cut a piece off,) and till the syrup
+becomes very thick and rich. Then put it all into jars, and cover it
+closely.
+
+If you put the syrup hot to the ginger at first, it will shrink and
+shrivel. After the first time, you have only to boil and reboil the
+syrup; as it is not probable that it will require any further
+clarifying if carefully skimmed. It will be greatly improved by adding
+some lemon-juice at the close of the last boiling.
+
+TO PRESERVE CITRONS.
+
+Pare off the outer skin of some fine citrons, and cut them into
+quarters. Take out the middle. You may divide each quarter into several
+pieces. Lay them for four or five hours in salt and water. Take them
+out, and then soak them in spring or pump water (changing it
+frequently) till all the saltness is extracted, and till the last water
+tastes perfectly fresh. Boil a small lump of alum, and scald them in
+the alum-water. It must be very weak, or it will communicate an
+unpleasant taste to the citrons; a lump the size of a hickory nut will
+suffice for six pounds. Afterwards simmer them two hours with layers of
+green vine leaves. Then make a syrup, allowing a pint of water to each
+pound of loaf-sugar; boil and skim it well. When it is quite clear, put
+in the citrons, and boil them slowly, till they are so soft that a
+straw will pierce through them without breaking. Afterwards put them
+into a large dish, and set them in the sun to harden.
+
+Prepare some lemons, by paring off the yellow rind very thin, and
+cutting it into slips of uniform size and shape. Lay the lemon-rind in
+scalding water, to extract the bitterness. Then take the pared lemons,
+cut them into quarters, measure a half pint of water to each lemon, and
+boil them to a mash. Strain the boiled lemon through a sieve, and to
+each pint of liquid allow a pound of the best double-refined
+loaf-sugar, for the second syrup. Melt the sugar in the liquid, and
+stir into it gradually some beaten white of egg; allowing one white to
+four pounds of sugar. Then set it over the fire; put the lemon-peel
+into the syrup, and let it boil in it till quite soft. Put the citrons
+cold into a glass jar, and pour the hot syrup over them. Let the lemon
+remain with the citrons, as it will improve their flavour.
+
+If you wish the citrons to be candied, boil down the second syrup to
+candy height, (that is, till it hangs in strings from the spoon,) and
+pour it over the citrons. Keep them well covered. You may, if you
+choose, after you take the citrons from the alum-water, give them a
+boil in very weak ginger tea, made of the roots of green ginger if you
+can procure it; if not, of race ginger. Powdered ginger will not do at
+all. This ginger tea will completely eradicate any remaining taste of
+the salt or the alum. Afterwards cover the sides and bottom of the pan
+with vine leaves, put a layer of leaves between each layer of citron,
+and cover the top with leaves. Simmer the citrons in this two hours to
+green them.
+
+In the same manner you may preserve water-melon rind, or the rind of
+cantelopes. Cut these rinds into stars, diamonds, crescents, circles,
+or into any fanciful shape you choose. Be sure to pare off the outside
+skin before you put the rinds into the salt and water.
+
+Pumpkin cut into slips, may be preserved according to the above
+receipt.
+
+CANTELOPES OR MUSK-MELONS.
+
+Take very small cantelopes before they are ripe. Shave a thin paring
+off the whole outside. Cut out a small piece or plug about an inch
+square, and through it extract all the seeds, &c. from the middle.
+Then, return the plugs to the hole from whence you took them, and
+secure them with a needle and thread, or by tying a small string round
+the cantelope.
+
+Lay the cantelopes for four or five hours in salt and water. Then put
+them into spring water to extract the salt, changing the water till you
+find it salt no longer. Scald them in weak alum-water. Make a syrup in
+the proportion of a pint of water to a pound of loaf-sugar, and boil
+the cantelopes in it till a straw will go through them. Then take them
+out, and set them in the sun to harden.
+
+Prepare some fine ripe oranges, paring off the yellow rind very thin,
+and cutting it into slips, and then laying it in scalding water to
+extract the bitterness. Cut the oranges into pieces; allow a pint of
+water to each orange, and boil them to a pulp. Afterwards strain them,
+and allow to each pint of the liquid, a pound of the best loaf-sugar,
+and stir in a little beaten white of egg; one white to four pounds of
+sugar. This is for the second syrup. Boil the peel in it, skimming it
+well. When the peel is soft, take it all out; for if left among the
+cantelopes, it will communicate to it too strong a taste of the orange.
+
+Put the cantelopes into your jars, and pour over them the hot syrup.
+Cover them closely, and keep them in a dry cool place.
+
+Large cantelopes may be prepared for preserving (after you have taken
+off the outer rind) by cutting them into pieces according to the
+natural divisions with which they are fluted. This receipt for
+preserving cantelopes whole, will do very well for green lemons or
+limes, substituting lemon-peel and lemon-juice for that of oranges in
+the second syrup.
+
+You may use some of the first syrup to boil up the pulp of the orange
+or lemons that has been left. It will make a sort of marmalade, that is
+very good for colds.
+
+PRESERVED WATER-MELON RIND.
+
+Having pared off the green skin, cut the rind of a water-melon into
+pieces of any shape you please; stars, diamonds, circles, crescents or
+leaves, using for the purpose a sharp penknife. Weigh the pieces, and
+allow to each pound a pound and a halt of loaf sugar. Set the sugar
+aside, and put the pieces of melon-rind into a preserving kettle, the
+bottom and sides of which you, have lined with green vine leaves. Put a
+layer of vine leaves between each, layer of melon-rind, and cover the
+top with leaves. Disperse among the pieces some very small bits of
+alum, each about the bigness of a grain of corn, and allowing one bit
+to every pound of the melon-rind. Pour in just water enough to cover
+the whole, and place a thick double cloth (or some other covering) over
+the top of the kettle to keep in the steam, which will improve the
+greening. Let it simmer (but not boil) for two hours. Then take out the
+pieces of melon-rind and spread them on dishes to cool. Afterwards if
+you find that they taste of the alum, simmer them in very weak ginger
+tea for about three hours. Then proceed to make your syrup. Melt the
+sugar in clear spring or pump water, allowing a pint of water to a
+pound and a half of sugar, and mixing in with it some white of egg
+beaten to a stiff froth. The white of one egg will be enough for four
+pounds of sugar. Boil and skim it; and when the scum ceases to rise,
+put in the melon-rind, and let it simmer an hour. Take it out and
+spread it to cool on dishes return it to the syrup, and simmer it
+another hour. After this take it out, and put it into a tureen. Boil up
+the syrup again, and pour it over the melon-rind. Cover it, and let it
+stand all night. Next morning give the syrup another boil; adding to It
+some lemon-juice, allowing the juice of one lemon to a quart of the
+syrup. When you find it so thick as to hang in a drop on the point of
+the spoon, it is sufficiently done. Then put the rind into glass jars,
+pour in the syrup, and secure the sweetmeats closely from the air with
+paper dipped in brandy, and a leather outer cover.
+
+This, if carefully done and well greened, is a very nice sweetmeat, and
+may be used to ornament the top of creams, jellies, jams by laying it
+round in rings or wreaths.
+
+Citrons may be preserved green in the same manner, first paring off the
+outer skin and cutting them into quarters. Also green limes.
+
+PRESERVED PEPPERS.
+
+For this purpose take the small round peppers while they are green.
+With a sharp penknife extract the seeds and cores; and then put the
+outsides into a kettle with vine leaves, and a little alum to give them
+firmness, and assist in keeping them green. Proceed precisely as
+directed for the water-melon rind, in the above receipt.
+
+PUMPKIN CHIPS.
+
+It is best to defer making this sweetmeat (which will be found very
+fine) till late in the season when lemons are ripe and are to be had in
+plenty. Pumpkins (as they keep well) can generally be procured at any
+time through the winter.
+
+Take a fine pumpkin, of a rich deep colour, pare off the outer rind;
+remove the seeds; and having sliced the best part, cut it into chips of
+equal size, and about as thick as a half dollar. They should be in long
+narrow pieces, two inches in breadth, and six in length. It is best to
+prepare the pumpkin the day before; and having weighed the chips, allow
+to each pound of them a pound of the best loaf-sugar. You must have
+several dozen of fine ripe lemons, sufficient to furnish a jill of
+lemon-juice to each pound of pumpkin. Having rolled them under your
+hand on a table, to make them yield as much juice as possible, pare off
+the yellow rind and put it away for some other purpose. Then having cut
+the lemons, squeeze out all the juice into a pitcher. Lay the pumpkin
+chips in a large pan or tureen, strewing the sugar among them. Then
+having measured the lemon-juice in a wine-glass, (two common
+wine-glasses making one jill,) pour it over the pumpkin and sugar,
+cover the vessel, and let it stand all night.
+
+Next day transfer the pumpkin, sugar, and lemon-juice to n preserving
+kettle, and boil it slowly three quarters of an hour, or till the
+pumpkin becomes all through tender, crisp, and transparent; but it must
+not be over the fire long enough to break and lose its form. You must
+skim it thoroughly. Some very small pieces of the lemon-paring may be
+boiled with it. When you think it is done, take up the pumpkin chips in
+a perforated skimmer that the syrup may drain through the holes back
+into the kettle. Spread the chips to cool on large dishes, and pass the
+syrup through a flannel bag that has been first dipped in hot water.
+When the chips are cold, put them into glass jars or tumblers, pour in
+the syrup, and lay on the top white paper dipped in brandy. Then tie up
+the jars with leather, or with covers of thick white paper.
+
+If you find that when cold the chips are not perfectly clear, crisp,
+and tender, give them another boil in the syrup before you put them up.
+
+This, if well made, is a handsome and excellent sweetmeat It need not
+be eaten with cream, the syrup being so delicious as to require nothing
+to improve it. Shells of puff-paste first baked empty, and then filled
+with, pumpkin chips, will be found very nice.
+
+Musk-melon chips may be done in the same manner.
+
+TO PRESERVE PINE-APPLES.
+
+Take fine large pine-apples; pare them, and cut off a small round piece
+from the bottom, of each; let the freshest and. best of the top leaves
+remain on. Have ready on a slow fire, a large preserving kettle with a
+thin syrup barely sufficient to cover the fruit. In making this syrup
+allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar to every quart of water, and half the
+white of a beaten egg; all to be mixed before it goes on the fire. Then
+boil and skim it, and when the scum ceases to rise, put in the
+pine-apples, and simmer them slowly an hour. Then take them out to
+cool, cover them carefully and pat them away till next day; saving the
+syrup in another vessel. Next day, put them into the same syrup, and
+simmer them again an hour. On the third day, repeat the process. The
+fourth day, make a strong fresh syrup, allowing but a pint of water to
+each pound of sugar, and to every three pounds the beaten white of one
+egg. When this syrup has boiled, and is completely skimmed, put in the
+pine-apples, and simmer them half an hour. Then take them out to cool,
+and set them aside till next morning. Boil them again, half an hour in
+the same syrup, and repeat this for seven or eight days, or till you
+can pierce through the pine-apple with a straw from a corn-broom. At
+the last of these boilings enrich the syrup by allowing to each pound
+of sugar a quarter of a pound more; and, having boiled and skimmed it,
+put in the pine apples for half an hour. Then take them out, and when
+quite cold put each into a separate glass jar, and fill up with the
+syrup.
+
+Pine apples may be preserved in slices by a very simple process. Pare
+them, and out them into round pieces near an inch thick, and take out
+the core from the centre of each slice. Allow a pound of loaf-sugar to
+every pound of the sliced pine-apple. Powder the sugar, and strew it in
+layers between the slices of pine-apple. Cover it and let it set all
+night. Next morning measure some clear spring or pump water, allowing
+half a pint to each pound of sugar. Beat some white of egg, (one white
+to four pounds of sugar,) and when it is a very stiff froth, stir it
+gradually into the water. Then mix with it the pine-apple and sugar,
+and put the whole into a preserving kettle. Boil and skim it well, till
+the pine-apple is tender and bright all through. Then take it out, and
+when cold, put it up in wide-mouthed glass jars, or in large tumblers.
+
+TO PREPARE FRESH PINE-APPLES.
+
+Cut off the top and bottom and pare off the rind. Then cut the
+pine-apples in round slices half an inch thick, and put them into a
+deep dish, sprinkling every slice with powdered loaf-sugar. Cover them,
+and let them lie in the sugar for an hour or two, before they are to be
+eaten.
+
+PRESERVED LEMONS.
+
+Take large fine ripe lemons, that have no blemishes. Choose those with
+thin, smooth rinds. With a sharp, knife scoop a hole in the stalk end
+of each, large enough to admit the handle of a tea-spoon. This hole is
+to enable the syrup to penetrate the inside of the lemons. Put them
+into a preserving kettle with clear water, and boil them gently till
+you find them tender, keeping the kettle uncovered. Then take them oat,
+drain, and cool them, and put them into a small tub. Prepare a thin
+syrup of a pound of loaf-sugar to a quart of water. When you have
+boiled and skimmed it, pour it over the lemons and cover them. Let them
+stand in the syrup till next day. Then poor the syrup from the lemons,
+and spread them on a large dish. Boil it a quarter of an hour, and pour
+it over them again, having first returned them to the tub. Cover them,
+and let them again stand till next day, when you must again boil the
+syrup and pour it over them. Repeat this process every day till you
+find that the lemons are quite clear, and that the syrup has penetrated
+them thoroughly. If you find the syrup becoming too weak, add a little
+more sugar to it. Finally, make a strong syrup in the proportion of
+half a pint of water to a pound of sugar, adding a jill of raw
+lemon-juice squeezed from fresh lemons, and allowing to every four
+pounds of sugar the beaten white of an egg. Mix all well together in
+the kettle. Boil and skim it, and when the scum ceases to rise, pour
+the syrup boiling hot over the lemons; and covering them closely, let
+them stand undisturbed for four days. Then look at them, and if you
+find that they have not sucked in enough of the syrup to make the
+inside very sweet, boil them gently in the syrup for a quarter of an
+hour. When they are cold, put them up in glass jars.
+
+You may green lemons by burying them in a kettle of vine leaves when
+you give them the first boiling in the clear water.
+
+Limes may be preserved by this receipt; also oranges.
+
+To prepare fresh oranges for eating, peel and cut them in round slices
+and remove the seeds. Strew powdered loaf-sugar over them. Cover them
+and let them stand an hour before they are eaten.
+
+ORANGE MARMALADE.
+
+Take fine large ripe oranges, with thin deep-coloured skins. Weigh
+them, and allow to each pound of oranges a pound of loaf-sugar. Pare
+off the yellow outside of the rind from half the oranges as thin as
+possible; and putting it into a pan with plenty of cold water, cover it
+closely (placing a double cloth beneath the tin cover) to keep in the
+steam, and boil it slowly till it is so soft that the head of a pin
+will pierce it. In the mean time grate the rind from the remaining
+oranges, and put it aside; quarter the oranges, and take out all the
+pulp and the juice; removing the seeds and core. Put the sugar into a
+preserving kettle, with a half pint of clear water to each pound, and
+mix it with some beaten white of egg, allowing one white of egg, to
+every four pounds of sugar. When the sugar is all dissolved, put it on
+the fire, and boil and skim it till it is quite clear and thick. Next
+take the boiled parings, and cut them into very small pieces, not more
+than, half an inch long; put them into the sugar, and boil them in it
+ten minutes. Then put in the pulp and juice of the oranges, and the
+grated rind, (which will much improve the colour,) and boil all
+together for about twenty minutes, till it is a transparent mass. When
+cold, pot it up in glass jars, laying brandy paper on the top.
+
+Lemon marmalade may be made in a similar manner, but you must allow a
+pound and a half of sugar to each pound of lemons.
+
+ORANGE JELLY.
+
+Take fourteen large ripe oranges, and grate the yellow rind from seven
+of them. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in as much warm water as will
+cover it. Mix the juice with a pound of loaf-sugar broken up, and add
+the grated, rind and the isinglass. Put it into a porcelain pan over
+hot coals and stir it till it boils. Then, skim it well. Boil it ten
+minutes, and strain it (but do not squeeze it) through a jelly-bag till
+it is quite clear. Put it into a mould to congeal, and when you want to
+turn it out dip the mould into lukewarm water. Or you may put it into
+glasses at once.
+
+You must have a pint of juice to a pound of sugar.
+
+A few grains of saffron boiled with the jelly will improve the colour
+without affecting the taste.
+
+PRESERVED PEACHES.
+
+Take large juicy ripe peaches; free-stones are the best, as they have a
+finer flavour than the cling-stones, and are much more manageable both
+to preserve, and to eat. Pare them, and cut them in half, or in
+quarters, leaving out the stones, the half of which you must save. To
+every pound of the peaches allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Powder the
+sugar, and strew it among your peaches. Cover them and let them stand
+all night. Crack half the peach-stones, break them up, put them into a
+small sauce-pan and boil them slowly in as much water as will cover
+them. Then when the water is well flavoured with the peach-kernels,
+strain them out, and set the water aside. Take care not to use too much
+of the kernel-water; a very little will suffice. Put the peaches into a
+preserving kettle, and boil them in their juice over a quick fire;
+(adding the kernel-water,) and skimming them all the time. When they
+are quite clear, which should be in half an hour, take them off, and
+put them into a tureen. Boil the syrup five minutes longer, and pour it
+hot over the peaches. When they are cool, put them into glass jars, and
+tie them up with paper dipped in brandy laid next to them.
+
+Apricots, nectarines, and large plums maybe preserved in the same
+manner.
+
+PEACHES FOR COMMON USE.
+
+Take ripe free-stone peaches; pare, stone, and quarter them. To six
+pounds of the cut peaches allow three pounds of the best brown sugar.
+Strew the sugar among the peaches, and set them away. Next morning add
+a handful of peach leaves, put the whole into a preserving kettle, and
+boil it slowly about an hour and three quarters, or two hours, skimming
+it well. When cold, put it up in jars and keep it for pies, or for any
+common purpose.
+
+BRANDY PEACHES.
+
+Take large white or yellow free-stone peaches, the finest you can
+procure. They must not be too ripe. Rub off the down with a flannel,
+score them down the seam with a large needle, and prick every peach to
+the stone in several places. Scald them with boiling water, and let
+them remain in the water till it becomes cold, keeping them well
+covered. Repeat the scalding three times: it is to make them white.
+Then wipe them, and spread them on a soft table-cloth, covering them
+over with several folds. Let them remain in the cloth to dry.
+Afterwards put them into a tureen, or a large jar, and pour on as much
+white French brandy as will cover them well. Carefully keep the air
+from them, and let them remain in the brandy for a week. Then make a
+syrup in the usual manner, allowing to each pound of peaches a pound of
+loaf-sugar and half a pint of water mixed with a very little beaten
+white of egg; one white to three or four pounds of sugar.
+
+When the syrup has boiled, and been well skimmed, put in the peaches
+and boil them slowly till they look clear; but do not keep them boiling
+more than half an hour. Then take them out, drain them, and put them
+into large glass jars. Mix the syrup, when it is cold, with the brandy
+in which you had the peaches, and pour it over them. Instead of
+scalding the peaches to whiten them, you may lay them for an hour in
+sufficient cold weak lye to cover them well. Turn them frequently while
+in the lye, and wipe them dry afterwards.
+
+Pears and apricots may be preserved in brandy, according to the above
+receipt. The skin of the pears should he taken off, but the stems left
+on.
+
+Large egg plums may be preserved in the same manner.
+
+Another way of preparing brandy peaches is, after rubbing off the down
+and pricking them, to put them into a preserving kettle with cold
+water, and simmer them slowly till they become hot all through; but
+they must not be allowed to boil. Then dry them in a cloth, and let
+them lie till they are cold, covering them closely from the air.
+Dissolve loaf-sugar in the best white brandy, (a pound of sugar to a
+quart of brandy,) and having put the peaches into large glass jars,
+pour the brandy and sugar over them (without boiling) and cover the
+jars well with leather.
+
+Pears, apricots, and egg plums may also be done in this manner.
+
+
+PEACH MARMALADE.
+
+Take ripe yellow free-stone peaches; pare, stone, and quarter them. To
+each pound of peaches, allow three quarters of a pound of powdered
+loaf-sugar, and half an ounce of bitter almonds, or peach-kernels
+blanched in scalding water, and pounded smooth in a mortar. Scald the
+peaches in a very little water, mash them to a pulp, mix them with the
+sugar and pounded-almonds, and put the whole into a preserving kettle.
+Let it boil to a smooth thick jam, skimming and stirring it well, and
+keeping the pan covered as much as possible. Fifteen minutes will
+generally suffice for boiling it. When cold, put it up in glass jars.
+
+Plum marmalade may be made in this manner, flavouring it with pounded
+plum-kernels.
+
+PEACH JELLY.
+
+Take fine juicy free-stone peaches and pare and quarter them. Scald
+them in a very little water, drain and mash them, and squeeze the juice
+through a jelly-bag. To every pint of juice allow a pound of
+loaf-sugar, and a few of the peach-kernels. Having broken up the
+kernels and boiled them by themselves for a quarter of an hour in just
+as much water as will cover them, strain off the kernel-water, and add
+it to the juice. Mix the juice with the sugar, and when it is melted,
+boil them together fifteen minutes, till it becomes a thick jelly. Skim
+it well when it boils. Try the jelly by taking a little in a spoon and
+holding it in the open air to see if it congeals. If you find, that
+after sufficient boiling, it still continues thin, you can make it
+congeal by stirring in an ounce or more of isinglass, dissolved and
+strained. When the jelly is done, put it into tumblers, and lay on the
+top double tissue paper cut exactly to fit the inside of the glass;
+pressing it down with your fingers.
+
+You may make plum jelly in the same manner, allowing a pound and a half
+of sugar to a pint of juice.
+
+TO PRESERVE APRICOTS.
+
+Take ripe apricots; scald them, peel them, cut them in half, and
+extract the stones. Then weigh the apricots, and to each pound allow a
+pound of loaf-sugar. Put them into a tureen or large pan, in alternate
+layers of apricots and sugar; cover them, and let them stand all night.
+Next morning put all together into a preserving kettle, and boil them
+moderately a quarter of an hour. Then take them out, spread them on
+dishes, and let them stand till next day. Then boil them again in the
+same syrup another quarter of an hour. Afterwards, spread them out to
+cool, put them into glass jars, and pour the syrup over them. Peaches
+may be preserved in the same manner. Also large plums or green gages;
+but to the plums you must allow additional sugar.
+
+TO DRY PEACHES.
+
+The best peaches for drying are juicy free-stones. They must be quite
+ripe. Cut them in half, and take out the stones. It is best not to pare
+them; as dried peaches are much richer with the skin on, and it
+dissolves and becomes imperceptible when they are cooked. Spread them
+out in a sunny balcony or on a scaffold, and let them dry gradually
+till they become somewhat like leather; always bringing them in at
+sunset, and not putting them out if the weather is damp or cloudy. They
+may also be dried in kilns or large ovens.
+
+Apples are dried in the same manner, except that they must be pared and
+quartered.
+
+Cherries also may be dried in the sun, first taking out all the stones.
+None but the largest and best cherries should be used for drying.
+
+TO PRESERVE QUINCES.
+
+Take large, yellow, ripe quinces, and having washed and wiped them,
+pare them and extract the cores. Quarter the quinces, or cut them into
+round slices an inch thick, and lay them in scalding water (closely
+covered) for an hour, or till they are tender. This will prevent them
+from hardening, Put the parings, cores, and seeds into a preserving
+kettle, cover them with the water in which you coddled the quinces, and
+boil them an hour, keeping them closely covered all the time. To every
+pint of this liquor allow a pound of loaf-sugar; and having dissolved
+the sugar in it, put it over the fire in the preserving kettle. Boil it
+up and skim it, and when the scum has ceased rising, put in the
+quinces, and boil them till they are red, tender, and clear all
+through, but not till they break. Keep the kettle closely covered while
+the quinces are in it, if you wish to have them bright coloured. You
+may improve the colour by boiling with them a little cochineal sifted
+through a muslin rag.
+
+When they are done, take them out, spread them on large dishes to cool,
+and then put them into glasses. Give the syrup another boil up, and it
+will be like a fine jelly. Pour it hot over the quinces, and when cold,
+tie up the jars with brandy paper.
+
+TO PRESERVE QUINCES WHOLE.
+
+Take those that are large, smooth, and yellow; pare them and extract
+the cores, carefully removing all the blemishes. Boil the quinces in a
+close kettle with the cores and parings, in sufficient water to cover
+them. In half an hour take, them out, spread them to cool, and add to
+the cores and parings some small inferior quinces cut in quarters, but
+not pared or cored; and pour in some more water, just enough to boil
+them. Cover the pan, and let them simmer for an hour. Then take it off,
+strain the liquid, measure it, and to each quart allow a pound of
+loaf-sugar. Put the sugar to melt in the liquid, and let it set all
+night. Next day boil the quinces in it for a quarter of an hour, and
+then take them out and cool them, saving the syrup. On the following
+day repeat the same; and the fourth day add a quarter of a pound more
+sugar to each pint of the syrup, and boil the quinces in it twelve
+minutes. If by this time they are not tender, bright, and transparent
+all through, repeat the boiling.
+
+When they are quite done, put quince jelly or marmalade into the holes
+from whence you took the cores; put the quinces into glass jars and
+pour the syrup over them. If convenient, it is a very nice way to put
+up each quince in a separate tumbler.
+
+QUINCE JELLY.
+
+Take fine ripe yellow quinces, wash them and remove all the blemishes,
+cut them in pieces, but do not pare or core them. Put them into a
+preserving-pan with clear spring water. If you, are obliged to use
+river water, filter it first; allowing one pint to twelve large
+quinces. Boil them gently till they are all soft and broken. Then put
+them into a jelly-bag, and do not squeeze it till after the clear
+liquid has ceased running. Of this you must make the _best_ jelly,
+allowing to each pint a pound of loaf-sugar. Having dissolved the sugar
+in the liquid, boil them together about twenty minutes, or till you
+have a thick jelly.
+
+In the meantime, squeeze out all that is left in the bag. It will not
+be clear, but you can make of it a very good jelly for common purposes.
+
+QUINCE MARMALADE.
+
+Take six pounds of ripe yellow quinces; and having washed them clean,
+pare and core them, and cut them into small pieces. To each pound of
+the cut quinces allow half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the
+parings and cores into a kettle with water enough to cover them, and
+boil them slowly till they are all to pieces, and quite soft. Then
+having put the quinces with the sugar into a porcelain preserving
+kettle, strain over them, through a cloth, the liquid from the parings
+and cores. Add a little cochineal powdered, and sifted through thin
+muslin. Boil the whole over a quick fire till it becomes a thick smooth
+mass, keeping it covered except when you are skimming it; and always
+after skimming, stir it up well from the bottom.
+
+When cold, put it up in glass jars. If you wish to use it soon, put it
+warm into moulds, and when if is cold, set the moulds in lukewarm
+water, and the marmalade will turn out easily.
+
+QUINCE CHEESE.
+
+Have fine ripe quinces, and pare and core them. Cut them into pieces,
+and weigh them; and to each pound of the cut quinces, allow half a
+pound of the best brown sugar. Pat the cores and parings into a kettle,
+with water enough to cover them, keeping the lid of the kettle closed.
+When you find that they are all boiled to pieces and quite soft, strain
+off the water over the sugar, and when it is entirely dissolved, put it
+over the fire and boil it to a thick syrup, skimming it well. When no
+more scum rises, put in the quinces, cover them closely, and boil them
+all day over a slow fire, stirring them and mashing them down with a
+spoon till they are a thick smooth paste. Then take it out, and put it
+into buttered tin pans or deep dishes. Let it set to get cold. It will
+then turn out so firm that you may cut it into slices like cheese. Keep
+it in a dry place in broad stone pots. It is intended for the
+tea-table.
+
+PRESERVED APPLES.
+
+Take fine ripe pippin or bell-flower apples. Pare and core them, and
+either leave them whole, or cut them into quarters. Weigh them, and to
+each pound of apples allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put the apples into a
+stew-pan with just water enough to cover them, and let them boil slowly
+for about half an hour. They must be only parboiled. Then strain the
+apple water over the sugar into a preserving kettle, and when the sugar
+is melted put it on the fire with the yellow rind of some lemons pared
+thin, allowing four lemons lo a dozen apples. Boil the syrup till clear
+and thick, skimming; it carefully; then put in the apples, and after
+they have boiled slowly a quarter of an hour, add the juice of the
+lemons. Let it boil about fifteen minutes longer, or till the apples
+are tender and clear, but not till they break. When they are cold, put
+them into jars, and covering them closely, let them set a week. At the
+end of that time give them another boil in the same syrup; apples being
+more difficult to keep than any other fruit.
+
+You may colour them red by adding, when you boil them in the syrup, a
+little cochineal.
+
+BAKED APPLES.
+
+Take a dozen fine large juicy apples, and pare and core them; but do
+not cut them in pieces. Put them side by side into a large baking-pan,
+and fill up with brown sugar the holes from whence you have extracted
+the cores. Pour into each a little lemon-juice, or a few drops of
+essence of lemon, and stick in every one a long piece of lemon-peel
+evenly cut. Into the bottom of the pan put a very little water, just
+enough to prevent the apples from burning. Bake them about an hour, or
+till they are tender all through, but not till they break. When, done,
+set them away to get cold.
+
+If closely covered they will keep, two days. They may be eaten at tea
+with cream. Or at dinner with a boiled custard poured over them. Or you
+may cover them with, sweetened cream flavored with a little essence of
+lemon, and whipped to a froth. Heap the froth over every apple so as to
+conceal them entirely.
+
+APPLE JELLY.
+
+Take twenty large ripe juicy pippins. Pare, core, and chop them to
+pieces. Put them into a jar with the yellow rind of four lemons, pared
+thin and cut into little bits Cover the jar closely, and set it into a
+pot of hot water Keep the water boiling hard all round it till the
+apples are dissolved, Then strain them through a jelly-bag, and mix
+with the liquid the juice of the lemons. To each pint of the. mixed
+juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put them into a porcelain kettle,
+and when the sugar is melted, set it on the fire, and boil and skim it
+for about twenty minutes, or till it becomes a thick jelly. Put it into
+tumblers, and cover it with double tissue paper nicely fitted to the
+inside of the top. The red or Siberian crab apple makes a delicious
+jelly, prepared in the above manner.
+
+APPLE BUTTER.
+
+This is a compound of apples and cider boiled together till of the
+consistence of soft butter. It is a very good article on the tea-table,
+or at luncheon. It can only be made of sweet new cider fresh from the
+press, and not yet fermented.
+
+Fill a very large kettle with cider, and boil it till reduced to one
+half the original quantity. Then have ready some fine juicy apples,
+pared, cored, and quartered; and put as many into the kettle as can be
+kept moist by the cider. Stir it frequently, and when the apples are
+stewed quite soft, take them out with a skimmer that has holes in it,
+and put them into a tub. Then add more apples to the cider, and stew
+them soft in the same manner, stirring them nearly all the time with a
+stick. Have at hand some more cider ready boiled, to thin the apple
+butter in case you should find it too thick in the kettle.
+
+If you make a large quantity, (and it is not worth while to prepare
+apple butter on a small scale,) it will take a day to stew the apples.
+At night leave them to cool in the tubs, (which must be covered with
+cloths,) and finish next day by boiling the apple and cider again till
+the consistence is that of soft marmalade, and the colour a very dark
+brown.
+
+Twenty minutes or half an hour before you finally take it from the
+fire, add powdered cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg to your taste. If the
+spice is boiled too long, it will lose its flavour.
+
+When it is cold, put it into stone jars, and cover it closely. If it
+has been well made, and sufficiently boiled, it will keep a year or
+more.
+
+It must not he boiled in a brass or bell-metal kettle, on account of
+the verdigris which the acid will collect in it, and which will render
+the apple butter extremely unwholesome, not to say, poisonous.
+
+TO PRESERVE GREEN CRAB APPLES.
+
+Having washed your crab apples, (which should be full grown,) cover the
+bottom and sides of your preserving kettle with vine leaves, and put
+them in; spreading a thick layer of vine leaves over them. Fill up the
+kettle with cold, water, and hang it over a slow fire early in the
+morning; simmer them slowly, but do not allow them to boil. When they
+are quite yellow, take them out, peel off the skin with a penknife, and
+extract the cores very neatly.. Put them again into the kettle with
+fresh vine leaves and fresh water, and hang them again over a slow fire
+to simmer, but not to boil. When they have remained long enough in the
+second vine leaves to become green, take them out, weigh them, and
+allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar to each pound of crab apples.
+Then after the kettle has been well washed and wiped, put them into it
+with a thick layer of sugar between each layer of apples, and about
+half a pint of water, for each pound and a half of sugar. You may add
+the juice and yellow peel of some lemons. Boil them gently till they
+are quite clear and tender throughout. Skim them well, and keep the
+kettle covered when you are not skimming. When done, spread them on
+large dishes to cool, and then tie them up in glass jars with brandy
+papers.
+
+TO PRESERVE RED CRAB APPLES.
+
+Take red or Siberian crab apples when they are quite ripe and the seeds
+are black. Wash and wipe them, and put them into a kettle with
+sufficient water to cover them. Simmer them very slowly till you find
+that the skin will come off easily. Then take them out and peel and
+core them; extract the cores carefully with a small knife, so as not to
+break the apples. Then weigh them, and to every pound of crab apples
+allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar and a half pint of water. Put
+the sugar and water into a preserving kettle, and when they are melted
+together, set it over the fire and let it boil. After skimming it once,
+put in the crab apples, adding a little cochineal powder rubbed with a
+knife into a very small quantity of white brandy till it has dissolved.
+This will greatly improve the colour of the apples. Cover them and let
+them boil till clear and tender, skimming the syrup when necessary.
+Then spread them out on dishes, and when they are cold, put them into
+glass jars and pour the syrup over them.
+
+The flavour will be greatly improved by boiling with them in the syrup,
+a due proportion of lemon-juice and the peel of the lemons pared thin
+so as to have the yellow part only. If you use lemon-juice put a
+smaller quantity of water to the sugar. Allow one large lemon or two
+smaller ones to each pound of crab apples.
+
+If you find that after they have been kept awhile, the syrup inclines
+to become dry or candied, give it another boil with the crab apples in
+it, adding a tea-cup full of water to about three or four pounds of the
+sweetmeat.
+
+TO PRESERVE GREEN GAGES.
+
+Take large fine green gages that are not perfectly ripe. Weigh them,
+and to each pound of fruit allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar. Put
+a layer of fresh vine leaves at the bottom of a porcelain preserving
+kettle, place on it a layer of gages, then cover them with a layer of
+vine leaves, and so on alternately, finishing with a layer of leaves at
+the top. Fill up the kettle with hard water, and set it over a slow
+fire. When the gages rise to the top, take them out and peel them,
+putting them on a sieve as you do so. Then replace them in the kettle
+with fresh vine leaves and water; cover them very closely, so that no
+steam can escape, and hang them up at some distance above the fire to
+green slowly for six hours. They should be warm all the time, but must
+not boil. When they are a fine green, take them carefully out, spread
+them on a hair sieve to drain, and make a syrup of the sugar, allowing
+a half pint of water to each pound and a half of sugar. When it has
+boiled and been skimmed, put in the green gages and boil them gently
+for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out and spread them to cool.
+Next day boil them in the same syrup for another quarter of an hour.
+When cold, put them into glass jars with the syrup, and tie them up
+with brandy paper.
+
+To preserve them whole without peeling, you must prick each at the top
+and bottom, with a large needle.
+
+TO PRESERVE PLUMS.
+
+Take fine ripe plums; weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound and a
+half of loaf-sugar. Put them into a pan, and scald them in boiling
+water to make the skins come off easily. Peel them, and throw them as
+you do so into a large china pitcher. Let them set for an hour or two,
+and then take them out, saving all the juice that has exuded from them
+while in the pitcher. Spread the plums out on large dishes, and cover
+them with half the sugar you have allotted to them, (it must be
+previously powdered,) and let them lie in it all night. Next morning
+pour the juice out of the pitcher into a porcelain preserving kettle,
+add the last half of the sugar to it, and let it melt over the fire.
+When it has boiled skim it, and then put in the plums. Boil them over a
+moderate fire, for about half an hour. Then take them out one by one
+with a spoon, and spread them on large dishes to cool. If the syrup is
+not sufficiently thick and clear, boil and skim it a little longer till
+it is. Put the plums into glass jars and pour the syrup warm over them.
+
+The flavour will be much improved by boiling in the syrup with the
+fruit a handful or more of the kernels of plums, blanched in scalding
+water and broken in half. Take the kernels out of the syrup before you
+pour it into the jars.
+
+You may preserve plums whole, without peeling, by pricking them deeply
+at each end with a large needle.
+
+Green gages and damsons maybe preserved according to this receipt.
+
+PLUMS FOR COMMON USE.
+
+Take fine ripe plums, and cut them in half. Extract all the stones, and
+spread out the plums on large dishes. Set the dishes on the sunny roof
+of a porch or shed, and let the plums have the full benefit of the sun
+for three or four days, taking them in, as soon as it is off, or if the
+sky becomes cloudy. This will half dry them. Then pack them closely in
+stone jars with a thick layer of the best brown sugar between every
+layer of plums; putting plenty of sugar at the bottom and top of the
+jars. Cover them closely, and set them away in a dry place.
+
+If they have been properly managed, they will keep a year; and are very
+good for pies and other purposes, in the winter and spring.
+
+Peaches may be prepared for keeping in the same manner.
+
+EGG PLUMS WHOLE.
+
+Take large egg plums that are not quite ripe, and prick them all over
+with a small silver fork. Leave on the stems. To three pounds of plums
+allow three pounds and a half of loaf-sugar, broken small or powdered.
+Put the plums and sugar into a preserving kettle, and pour in one half
+pint of clear hard water. Hang the kettle over a moderate fire, and
+boil and skim it, As soon as the skin begins to crack or shrivel, take
+out the plums one at a time, (leaving the syrup on the fire,) and
+spread them on large dishes to cool. Place them in the open air, and as
+soon as they are cool enough to be touched with your fingers, smooth
+the skin down where it is broken or ruffled, When quite cold, return
+them to the syrup, (which in the mean time must have been kept slowly
+simmering,) and boil the plums again till they are quite clear, but not
+till they break. Put them warm into large glass or queen’s-ware jars,
+and pour the syrup over them.
+
+TO PRESERVE PEARS.
+
+Take large fine juicy pears that are not perfectly ripe, and pare them
+smoothly and thin; leaving on the stems, but cutting out the black top
+at the blossom end of the fruit. As you pare them, lay them in a pan of
+cold water. Make a thin syrup, allowing a quart of water to a pound of
+loaf-sugar. Simmer the pears in it for about half an hour. Then pat
+them into a tureen, and let them lie in the syrup for two days, There
+must be syrup enough to cover them well. After two days, drain the
+syrup front the pears, and add to it more sugar, in the proportion of a
+pound to each pint of the thin syrup. Stir in a very little beaten
+white of egg, (not more than one white to three or four pounds of
+sugar,) add some fresh lemon-peel pared thin, and set the syrup over a
+brisk fire. Boil it for ten minutes and skim it well. Then add
+sufficient lemon-juice to flavour it; and put in the pears. Simmer them
+in the strong syrup till they are quite transparent. Then take them
+out, spread them to cool, and stick a clove in the blossom end of each.
+Put them into glass jars; and having kept the syrup warm over the fire
+while the pears were tooling, pour it over them.
+
+If you wish to have them red, add a little powdered cochineal to the
+strong syrup when you put in your pears.
+
+BAKED PEARS.
+
+The best for baking are the large late ones, commonly called pound
+pears. Pare them, cut them in half, and take out the cores. Lay them in
+a deep white dish, with a thin slip of fresh lemon-peel in the place
+from which each core was taken. Sprinkle them with sugar, and strew
+some whole cloves or some powdered cinnamon-among them. Pour into the
+dish some port wine. To a dozen large pears you may allow half a pound
+of sugar, and a pint of wine. Cover the dish, with a large sheet of
+brown paper tied on; set it in a moderate oven, and let them bake till
+tender all through which you may ascertain by sticking a broom twig
+through them. They will he done in about an hour, or they may probably
+require more time; but you must not let them remain long enough in the
+oven, to break or fall to pieces. When cool, put them up in a stone
+jar. In cold weather they will keep a week.
+
+To bake smaller pears, pare them, but leave on the stems, and do not
+core them. Put them into a deep dish with fresh lemon, or orange-peel;
+throw on them some brown sugar or molasses; pour in at the bottom a
+little water to keep them from burning; and bake them till tender
+throughout.
+
+TO PRESERVE GOOSEBERRIES.
+
+The best way of preserving gooseberries is with jelly. They should be
+full grown but green. Take six quarts of gooseberries, and select three
+quarts of the largest and finest to preserve whole, reserving the
+others for the jelly. Put the whole ones into a pan with sufficient
+water to cover them, and simmer them slowly till they begin to be
+tender; but do not keep them on the fire till they are likely to burst.
+Take them out carefully with a perforated skimmer to drain the warm
+water from them, and lay them directly in a pan of cold water. Put
+those that you intend for the jelly into a stew-pan, allowing to each
+quart of gooseberries half a pint of water. Boil them fast till they go
+all to pieces, and stir and mash them with a spoon. Then put them into
+a jelly-bag that has been first dipped in hot water, and squeeze
+through it all the juice. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow a
+pound and a half of loaf-sugar. Break up the sugar, and put it into a
+preserving kettle; pour the juice over it, and let it stand to melt,
+stirring it frequently. When it has all dissolved, set it over the
+fire, put the gooseberries into it, and let them boil twenty minutes,
+or till they are quite clear, and till the jelly is thick and congeals
+in the spoon when you hold it in the air. If the gooseberries seem
+likely to break, take them out carefully, and let the jelly boil by
+itself till it is finished. When all is done, put up the gooseberries
+and the jelly together in glass jars.
+
+Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, currants or any small fruit may in a
+similar manner be preserved in jelly.
+
+TO STEW GOOSEBERRIES.
+
+Top and tail them. Pour some boiling water on the gooseberries, cover
+them up, and let them set about half an hour, or till the skin is quite
+tender, but not till it bursts, as that will make the juice run out
+into the water. Then pour off the water, and mix with the gooseberries
+an equal quantity of sugar. Put them into a porcelain stew-pan or
+skillet, and set it on hot coals, or on a charcoal furnace. In a few
+minutes you may begin to mash them against the side of the pan with a
+wooden spoon. Let them stew about half an hour, stirring them
+frequently. They must be quite cold before they are used for any thing.
+
+GOOSEBERRY FOOL.
+
+Having stewed two quarts of gooseberries in the above manner, stir them
+as soon as they are cold into a quart of rich boiling milk. Grate in a
+nutmeg, and covering the pan, let the gooseberries simmer in the milk
+for five minutes. Then stir in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs,
+and immediately remove it from the fire. Keep on the cover a few
+minutes longer; then turn out the mixture into a deep dish or a glass
+bowl, and set it away to get cold, before it goes to table. Eat it with
+sponge-cake. It will probably require additional sugar.
+
+Gooseberries prepared in this manner make a very good pudding, with the
+addition of a little grated bread. Use both whites and yolks of the
+eggs. Stir the mixture well, and bake it in a deep dish. Eat it cold,
+with sugar grated over it.
+
+TO BOTTLE GOOSEBERRIES.
+
+For this purpose the gooseberries must be large and full grown, but
+quite green. Top and tail them, and put them into wide-mouthed bottles
+as far up as the beginning of the neck. Cover the bottom of a large
+boiler or kettle with saw-dust or straw. Stand the bottles of
+gooseberries (slightly corked) upright in the boiler, and pour round
+them cold water to each, as far up as the fruit. Put a brisk fire under
+the boiler, and when the water boils up, instantly take out the bottles
+and fill them up to the mouth with boiling water, which you must have
+ready in a tea-kettle. Cork them again slightly, and when quite cold
+put in the corks very tight and seal them. Lay the bottles on their
+sides in a box of dry sand, and turn them every day for four or five
+weeks. If properly managed, the gooseberries will keep a year, and may
+be used at any time, by stewing them with sugar.
+
+You may bottle damsons in the same manner; also grapes.
+
+PRESERVED RASPBERRIES.
+
+Take a quantity of ripe raspberries, and set aside the half, selecting
+for that purpose the largest and firmest. Then put the remainder into
+your preserving pan, mash them, and set them over the fire. As soon as
+they have come to a boil, take them out, let them cool, and then
+squeeze them through a bag.
+
+While they are cooling, prepare your sugar, which must be fine loaf.
+Allow a pound of sugar to every quart of whole raspberries. Having
+washed the kettle clean, put the sugar into it, allowing half a pint of
+cold water to two pounds of sugar. When it has melted in the water, put
+it on the fire, and boil it till the scum ceases to rise, and it is a
+thick syrup; taking care to skim it well. Then put in the whole
+raspberries, and boil them rapidly a few minutes, but not long enough
+to cause them to burst. Take them out with a skimmer full of holes, and
+spread them on a large dish to cool. Then mix with the syrup the juice
+of those you boiled first, and let it boil about ten or fifteen
+minutes. Lastly, put in the whole fruit, and give it one more boil,
+seeing that it does not break.
+
+Put it warm into glass jars or tumblers, and when quite cold cover it
+closely with paper dipped in brandy, tying another paper tightly over
+it.
+
+Strawberries may be done in the same manner; blackberries also.
+
+
+RASPBERRY JAM.
+
+Take fine raspberries that are perfectly ripe. Weigh them, and to each
+pound of fruit allow three quarters of a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Mash
+the raspberries, and break up the sugar. Then mix them together, and
+put them into a preserving kettle over a good fire. Stir them
+frequently and skim them. The jam will be done in half an hour. Put it
+warm into glasses, and lay on the top a white paper cut exactly to fit
+the inside, and dipped in brandy. Then tie on another cover of very
+thick white paper.
+
+Make blackberry jam in the same manner.
+
+TO PRESERVE CRANBERRIES.
+
+The cranberries must be large and ripe. Wash them, and to six quarts of
+cranberries allow nine pounds of the best brown sugar. Take three
+quarts of the cranberries, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and
+a half of water. Cover the pan, and boil or stew them, till they are
+all to pieces. Then squeeze the juice through a jelly-bag. Put the
+sugar into a preserving kettle, pour the cranberry juice over it and
+let it stand till it is all melted, stirring it up frequently. Then
+place the kettle over the fire, and put in the remaining three quarts
+of whole cranberries. Let them boil till they are tender, clear, and of
+a bright colour, skimming them frequently. When done, put them, warm
+into jars with the syrup, which should be like a thick jelly.
+
+RED CURRANT JELLY.
+
+The currants should be perfectly ripe and gathered on a dry day. Strip
+them from the stalks, and put them into a stone jar. Cover the jar, and
+set it up to the neck in a kettle of boiling water. Keep the water
+boiling round the jar till the currants are all broken, stirring them
+up occasionally. Then put them into a jelly-bag, and squeeze out all
+the juice. To each pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of the
+best loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, pour the juice
+over it, and stir it frequently till it is all melted. Then set the
+kettle over a moderate fire, and let it boil twenty minutes, or till
+you find that the jelly congeals in the spoon when, you hold it in the
+air; skim it carefully all the time. When the jelly is done, pour it
+warm into tumblers, and cover each with two rounds of white tissue
+paper, cut to fit exactly the inside of the glass.
+
+Jelly of gooseberries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, barberries,
+blackberries, grapes, and other small fruit may all be made in this
+manner.
+
+WHITE CURRANT JELLY.
+
+The currants should be quite ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Having
+stripped them from the stalks, put them into a close stone jar, and set
+it in a kettle of boiling water. As soon as the currants begin to
+break, take them out and strain them through a linen cloth. To each
+pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of the best double refined
+loaf-sugar; break it small, and put it into a porcelain preserving pan
+with barely sufficient water to melt it; not quite half a pint to a
+pound and a quarter of sugar; it must be either clear spring water or
+river water filtered. Stir up the sugar while it is dissolving, and
+when all is melted, put it over a brisk fire, and boil and skim it till
+clear and thick. When the scum ceases to rise, put in the white currant
+juice and boil it fast for ten minutes. Then put it warm into tumblers,
+and when it is cold, cover it with double white tissue paper.
+
+In making this jelly, use only a silver spoon, and carefully observe
+all the above precautions, that it may be transparent and delicate. If
+it is not quite clear and bright when done boiling, you may run it
+again through a jelly-bag.
+
+White raspberry jelly may be prepared in the same manner. A very nice
+sweetmeat is made of white raspberries preserved whole, by putting them
+in white currant jelly during the ten minutes that you are boiling the
+juice with the syrup. You may also preserve red raspberries whole, by
+boiling them in red currant jelly.
+
+BLACK CURRANT JELLY.
+
+Take large ripe black currants; strip them from the stalks, and mash
+them with the back of a ladle. Then put them into a preserving kettle
+with a tumbler of water to each quart of currants; cover it closely,
+set it over a moderate fire, and when the currants have come to a boil,
+take them out, and squeeze them through a jelly-bag. To each pint of
+juice you may allow about a pound of loaf-sugar, and (having washed the
+preserving kettle perfectly clean) put in the sugar with the juice;
+stir them together till well mixed and dissolved, and then boil it not
+longer than ten minutes; as the juice of black currants being very
+thick will come to a jelly very soon, and if boiled too long will be
+tough and ropy.
+
+Black currant jelly is excellent for sore throats; and if eaten freely
+on the first symptoms of the disease, will frequently check, it without
+any other remedy. It would be well for all families to keep it in the
+house.
+
+GRAPE JELLY.
+
+Take ripe juicy grapes, pick them from the steins; put them into a
+large earthen pan, and mash them with the back of a wooden ladle, or
+with a potato beetle. Put them into a kettle, (without any water,)
+cover them, closely, and let them boil for a quarter of an hour;
+stirring them up occasionally from the bottom. Then squeeze them
+through a jelly-bag, and to each pint of juice allow a pound of
+loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the grape juice; then put it over a
+quick fire in a preserving kettle, and boil and skim it twenty minutes.
+When it is a clear thick jelly, take it off, put it warm into tumblers,
+and cover them with double tissue paper cut to fit the inside.
+
+In the same manner you may make an excellent jelly for common use, of
+ripe fox grapes and the best brown sugar; mixing with the sugar before
+it goes on the fire, a little beaten white of egg; allowing two whites
+to three pounds of sugar.
+
+GRAPES.
+
+Take some large close bunches of fine grapes, (they must not be too
+ripe,) and allow to each bunch a quarter of a pound of bruised sugar
+candy. Put the grapes and the sugar candy into large jars, (about
+two-thirds full,) and fill them up with French brandy. Tie them up
+closely, and keep them in a dry place. Morella cherries may be done in
+the same manner.
+
+Foreign grapes are kept in bunches, laid lightly in earthen jars of dry
+saw-dust.
+
+TO KEEP WILD GRAPES.
+
+Gather the small black wild grapes late in the season, after they have
+been ripened by a frost. Pick them from the stems, and put them into
+stone jars, (two-thirds full,) with layers of brown sugar, and fill
+them up with cold molasses. They will keep all winter; and they make
+good common pies. If they incline to ferment in the jars, give them a
+bail with additional sugar.
+
+TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES.
+
+Strawberries for preserving should be large and ripe. They will keep
+best if gathered in dry weather, when there has been no rain for at
+least two days. Having hulled, or topped and tailed them all, select
+the largest and firmest, and spread them out separately on flat dishes;
+having first weighed them, and allowed to each pound of strawberries a
+pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Sift half the sugar over them. Then take
+the inferior strawberries that were left, and those that, are over
+ripe; mix with them an equal quantity of powdered sugar, and mash them.
+Put them into a basin covered with a plate, and set them over the fire
+in a pan of boiling water, till they become a thick juice; then strain
+it through a bag and mix with it the other half of the sugar that you
+have allotted to the strawberries, which are to be done whole. Put it
+into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to
+rise; then put in the whole strawberries with the sugar in which they
+have been lying, and all the juice that may have exuded from them. Set
+them over the fire in the syrup, just long enough to heat them a
+little; and in a few minutes take them out, one by one, with a
+tea-spoon, and spread them on dishes to cool; not allowing them to
+touch each other. Then take off what scum may arise from the additional
+sugar. Repeat this several times, taking out the strawberries and
+cooling them till they become quite clear. They must not be allowed to
+boil; and if they seem likely to break, they should be instantly and
+finally taken from the fire. When quite cold, put them with the syrup
+into tumblers, or into white queen’s-ware pots. If intended to keep a
+long time it will be well to put at the top a layer of apple jelly.
+
+TO PRESERVE CHERRIES.
+
+Take large ripe morella cherries; weigh them, and to each pound allow a
+pound of loaf-sugar. Stone the cherries, (opening them with a sharp
+quill,) and save the juice that comes from them in the process. As you
+stone them, throw them into a large pan or tureen, and strew about half
+the sugar over them, and let them lie in it an hour or two after they
+are all stoned. Then put them into a preserving kettle with the
+remainder of the sugar, and boil and skim them till the fruit is clear
+and the syrup thick.
+
+CHERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE.
+
+The large carnation cherries are the best for this purpose. They should
+be quite ripe. Prick every one in several places with a needle, and
+leave on the stalks cut short. To each pound of cherries allow a pound
+and a quarter of the best loaf-sugar. Spread them on large dishes, and
+strew over them a thick layer of the sugar powdered fine; about a
+quarter of a pound of sugar to each pound of cherries. Or you may put
+them into a large tureen, and disperse the sugar among them, cover
+them, and let them set all night. In the morning get some ripe red
+currants; pick them, from the stalks, and squeeze them through a linen
+cloth till you have just sufficient juice to moisten the remaining
+sugar, which you must have ready in a preserving kettle. When the sugar
+has melted in the currant juice, put it over the fire, and when it has
+been well boiled and skimmed, put in the cherries and simmer them half
+an hour, or till they are so clear that you can see the stones through
+them. Then take them up one at a time, and spread them out to cool.
+Taste one, and if the sugar does not seem, to have sufficiently
+penetrated it, return them to the syrup and boil them a little longer,
+but do not allow them to break. If you are willing to take the trouble,
+you may put them out to cool three or four times while simmering. This
+will make them more transparent, and prevent them from bursting.
+
+CHERRY JELLY.
+
+Take fine juicy red cherries, and stone them. Save half the stones,
+crack them, and extract the kernels. Put the cherries and the kernels
+into a preserving kettle over a slow fire, and let them boil gently in
+their juice for half an hour. Then transfer them to a jelly-bag, and
+squeeze out the juice. Measure it, and to each pint allow a pound of
+fine loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the juice, and then boil and
+skim it for twenty or thirty minutes. Put it up in tumblers covered
+with tissue paper.
+
+CHERRY JAM.
+
+To each pound of cherries allow three quarters of a pound of the best
+brown sugar. Stone them, and as you do so throw the sugar gradually
+into the pan with them. Cover them and let them set all night. Next
+day, boil them slowly till the cherries and sugar form a thick smooth
+mass. Put it up in queen’s-ware jars.
+
+TO DRY CHERRIES.
+
+Choose the finest and largest red cherries for this purpose. Store
+them, and spread them on large dishes in the sun, till they become
+quite dry, taking them in as soon as the sun is off, or if the sky
+becomes cloudy. Put them up in stone jars, strewing among them some of
+the best brown sugar.
+
+The common practice of drying cherries with the stones in, (to save
+trouble,) renders them so inconvenient to eat, that they are of little
+use, when done in that manner.
+
+With the stones extracted, dried cherries will be found very good for
+common pies.
+
+BARBERRY JELLY.
+
+Take ripe barberries, and having stripped them from the stalks, mash
+them, and boil them in their juice for a quarter of an hour. Then
+squeeze them through a bag: allow to each pint of juice, a pound of
+loaf-sugar; and having melted the sugar in the juice, boil them
+together twenty or twenty-five minutes, skimming carefully. Put it up
+in tumblers with tissue paper.
+
+FROSTED FRUIT.
+
+Take large ripe cherries, plums, apricots, or grapes, and cut off half
+the stalk. Have ready in one dish some beaten white of egg, and in
+another some fine loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted. Dip the fruit first
+into the white of egg, and then roll it one by one in the powdered
+sugar. Lay a sheet of white paper on the bottom of a reversed sieve,
+set it on a stove or in some other warm place, and spread the fruit on
+the paper till the icing is hardened.
+
+PEACH LEATHER.
+
+To six pounds of ripe peaches, (pared and quartered,) allow three
+pounds of the best brown sugar. Mix them together, and put them, into a
+preserving kettle, with barely water enough to keep them from burning.
+Pound and mash them a while with a wooden beetle. Then boil and skim
+them for three hours or more, stirring them nearly all the time. When
+done, spread them thinly on large dishes, and set them in the sun for
+three or four days; Finish the drying by loosening the peach leather on
+the dishes, and setting them in the oven after the bread is taken out,
+letting them remain till the oven is cold. Roll up the peach leather
+and put it away in a box.
+
+Apple leather may be made in the same manner.
+
+RHUBARB JAM.
+
+Peel the rhubarb stalks and cut them into small square pieces. Then
+weigh them, and to each pound allow three quarters of a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar. Put the sugar and the rhubarb into a large, deep,
+white pan, in alternate layers, the top layer to be of sugar—cover it,
+and let it stand all night. In the morning, put it into a preserving
+kettle, and boil it slowly till the whole is dissolved into a thick
+mass, stirring it frequently, and skimming it before every stirring.
+Put it warm into glass jars, and tie it up with brandy paper.
+
+
+
+
+PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC.
+
+
+THE BEST PLAIN PASTE.
+
+All paste should be made in a very cool place, as heat renders it
+heavy. It is far more difficult to get it light in summer than in
+winter. A marble slab is much better to roll it on than a paste-board.
+It will be improved in lightness by washing the butter in very cold
+water, and squeezing and pressing out all the salt, as salt is
+injurious to paste. In New York and in the Eastern states, it is
+customary, in the dairies, to put more salt in what is called fresh
+butter, than in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Delaware. This butter,
+therefore, should always undergo the process of washing and squeezing
+before it is used for pastry or cakes. None but the very best butter
+should be taken for those purposes; as any unpleasant taste is always
+increased by baking. Potted butter never makes good paste. As pastry is
+by no means an article of absolute necessity, it is better not to have
+it at all, than to make it badly, and of inferior ingredients; few
+things being more unwholesome than hard, heavy dough. The flour for
+paste should always be superfine.
+
+You may bake paste in deep dishes or in soup plates. For shells that
+are to be baked empty, and afterwards filled with stewed fruit or
+sweetmeats, deep plates of block tin with broad edges are best. If you
+use patty-pans, the more flat they are the better. Paste always rises
+higher and is more perfectly light and flaky, when unconfined at the
+sides while baking. That it may be easily taken out, the dishes or tins
+should be well buttered.
+
+To make a nice plain paste,—sift three pints of superfine flour, by
+rubbing it through a sieve into a deep pan. Divide a pound of fresh
+butter into four quarters. Cut up one quarter into the flour, and rub
+it fine with your hands. Mix in, gradually, as much cold water as will
+make a tolerably stiff dough, and then knead it slightly. Use as little
+water as possible or the paste will be tough. Sprinkle a little flour
+on your paste-board, lay the lump of dough upon it, and knead it a very
+short time. Flour it, and roll it out into a very thin sheet, always
+rolling from you. Flour your rolling-pin to prevent its sticking. Take
+a second quarter of the butter, and with your thumb, spread it all over
+the sheet of paste. If your hand is warm, use a knife instead of your
+thumb; for if the butter oils, the paste will be heavy. When you have
+put on the layer of butter, sprinkle it with a very little flour, and
+with your hands roll up the paste as you would a sheet of paper. Then
+flatten it with a rolling-pin, and roll it out a second time into a
+thin sheet. Cover it with another layer of butter, as before, and again
+roll it up into a scroll. Flatten it again, put on the last layer of
+butter, flour it slightly, and again roll up the sheet. Then cut the
+scroll into as many pieces as you want sheets for your dishes or
+patty-pans. Roll out each piece almost an inch thick. Flour your
+dishes, lay the paste lightly on them, notch the edges, and bake it a
+light brown. The oven must be moderate. If it is too hot, the paste
+will bake before it has risen sufficiently. If too cold, it will
+scarcely rise at all, and will be white and clammy. When you begin to
+make paste in this manner, do not quit it till it is ready for the
+oven. It must always be baked in a close oven where no air can reach
+it.
+
+The best rolling-pins, are those that are straight, and as thick at the
+ends as in the middle. They should be held by the handles, and the
+longer the handles the more convenient. The common rolling-pins that
+decrease in size towards the ends, are much less effective, and more
+tedious, as they can roll so little at a time; the extremities not
+pressing on the dough at all.
+
+All, pastry is best when fresh. After the first day it loses much of
+its lightness, and is therefore more unwholesome.
+
+COMMON PIE CRUST.
+
+Sift two quarts of superfine flour into a pan. Divide one pound of
+fresh butter into two equal parts, and cut up one half in the flour,
+rubbing it fine. Mix it with a very little cold water, and make it into
+a round lump. Knead it a little. Then flour your paste-board, and roll
+the dough out into a large thin sheet. Spread it all over with the
+remainder of the butter. Flour it, fold it up, and roll it out again.
+Then fold it again, or roll it into a scroll. Cut it into as many
+pieces as you want sheets of paste, and roll each not quite an inch
+thick. Butter your pie-dish.
+
+This paste will do for family use, when covered pies are wanted. Also
+for apple dumplings, pot-pies, &c.; though all boiled paste is best
+when made of suet instead of butter. Short cakes may be made of this,
+cut out with the edge of a tumbler. It should always be eaten fresh.
+
+SUET PASTE.
+
+Having removed the skirt and stringy fibres from a pound of beef suet,
+chop it as fine as possible. Sift two quarts of flour into a deep pan,
+and rub into it one half of the suet. Make, it into a round lump of
+dough, with cold water, and then knead it a little. Lay the dough on
+your paste-board, roll it out very thin, and cover it with the
+remaining half of the suet. Flour it, roll it out thin again, and then
+roll it into a scroll. Cut it into as many pieces as you want sheets of
+paste, and roll them out half an inch thick.
+
+Suet paste should always be boiled. It is good for plain puddings that
+are made of apples, gooseberries, blackberries or other fruit; and for
+dumplings. If you use it for pot-pie, roll it the last time rather
+thicker than if wanted for any other purpose. If properly made, it will
+be light and flaky, and the suet imperceptible. If the suet is minced
+very fine, and thoroughly incorporated with the flour, not the
+slightest lump will appear when the paste comes to table.
+
+The suet must not be melted before it is used; but merely minced as
+fine as possible and mixed cold with the flour.
+
+If for dumplings to eat with boiled mutton, the dough must be rolled
+out thick, and cut out of the size you want them, with a tin, or with
+the edge of a cup or tumbler.
+
+DRIPPING PASTE.
+
+To a pound of fresh beef-dripping, that has been nicely clarified,
+allow two pounds and a quarter of flour. Put the flour into a large
+pan, and mix the dripping with it, rubbing it into the flour with your
+hands till it is thoroughly incorporated. Then make it into a stiff
+dough with a little cold water, and roll it out twice. This may be used
+for common meat pies.
+
+LARD PASTE.
+
+Lard for paste should never be used without an equal quantity of
+butter. Take half a pound of nice lard, and half a pound of fresh
+butter; rub them together into two pounds and a quarter of flour, and
+mix it with a little cold water to a stiff dough. Roll it out twice.
+Use it for common pies. Lard should always be kept in tin.
+
+POTATO PASTE.
+
+To two quarts of flour, allow fourteen good sized potatoes. Boil the
+potatoes till they are thoroughly done throughout. Then peel, and mash
+them very fine. Rub them through a cullender.
+
+Having sifted the flour into a pan, add the potatoes gradually; rubbing
+them well into the flour with your hands. Mix in sufficient cold water
+to make a stiff dough. Roll it out evenly, and you may use it for apple
+dumplings, boiled apple pudding, beef-steak pudding, &c.
+
+Potato paste must be sent to table quite hot; as soon as it cools it
+becomes tough and heavy. It is unfit for baking; and even when boiled
+is less light than suet paste.
+
+FINE PUFF PASTE.
+
+To every pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound or a quart of
+superfine flour. Sift the flour into a deep pan, and then sift on a
+plate some additional flour to use for sprinkling and rolling. Wash the
+butter through two cold waters; squeezing out all the salt, and
+whatever milk may remain in it; and then make it up with your hands
+into a round lump, and put it in ice till you are ready to use it. Then
+divide the butter into four equal parts. Cut up one of the quarters
+into the pan of flour; and divide the remaining three quarters into six
+pieces, [Footnote: Or into nine; and roll it in that number of times.]
+cutting each quarter in half. Mix with a knife the flour and butter
+that is in the pan, adding by degrees a very little cold water till you
+have made it into a lump of stiff dough. Then sprinkle some flour on
+the paste-board, (you should have a marble slab,) take the dough from
+the pan by lifting it out with the knife, lay it on the board, and
+flouring your rolling-pin, roll out the paste into a large thin sheet.
+Then with the knife, put all over it, at equal distances, one of the
+six pieces of butter divided into small bits. Fold up the sheet of
+paste, flour it, roll it out again, and add in the same manner another
+of the portions of butter. Repeat this process till the butter is all
+in. Then fold it once more, lay it on a plate, and set it in a cool
+place till you are ready to use it. Then divide it into as many pieces
+as you want sheets of paste; roll out each sheet, and put them into
+buttered plates or patty-pans. In using the rolling-pin, observe always
+to roll from you. Bake the paste in a moderate oven, but rather quick
+than slow. No air must be admitted to it while baking.
+
+The edges of paste should always be notched before it goes into the
+oven. For this purpose, use a sharp penknife, dipping it frequently in
+flour as it becomes sticky. The notches should be even and regular. If
+you do them imperfectly at first, they cannot be mended by sticking on
+additional bits of paste; as, when baked, every patch will be doubly
+conspicuous. There are various ways of notching; one of the neatest is
+to fold over one corner of each notch; or you may arrange the notches
+to stand upright and lie flat, alternately, all round the edge. They
+should be made small and regular. You may form the edge into leaves
+with the little tin cutters made for the purpose.
+
+If the above directions for puff paste are carefully followed, and if
+it is not spoiled in baking, it will rise to a great thickness and
+appear in flakes or leaves according to the number of times you have
+put in the butter.
+
+It should be eaten the day it is baked.
+
+SWEET PASTE.
+
+Sift a pound and a quarter of the finest flour, and three ounces of
+powdered loaf-sugar into a deep dish. Cut up in it ten ounces of the
+best fresh butter and rub it fine with your hands. Make a hole in the
+middle, pour in the yolks of two beaten eggs, and mix them with the
+flour, &c. Then wet the whole to a stiff paste with half a pint of rich
+milk. Knead it well, and roll it out.
+
+This paste is intended for tarts of the finest sweetmeats. If used as
+shells they should be baked empty, and filled when cool. If made into
+covered tarts they may be iced all over, in the manner of cakes, with
+beaten white of egg and powdered loaf-sugar. To make puffs of it, roll
+it out and cut it into round pieces with the edge of a large tumbler,
+or with a tin cutter. Lay the sweetmeat on one half of the paste, fold
+the other over it in the form of a half-moon, and unite the edges by
+notching them together. Bake them in a brisk oven, and when cool, send
+them to table handsomely arranged, several on a dish.
+
+Sweet paste is rarely used except for very handsome entertainments. You
+may add some rose water in mixing it.
+
+SHELLS.
+
+Shells of paste are made of one sheet each, rolled out in a circular
+form, and spread over the bottom, sides, and edges of buttered dishes
+or patty-pans, and baked empty; to be filled, when cool, with stewed
+fruit, (which for this purpose should be always cold,) or with
+sweetmeats. They should be made either of fine puff paste, or of the
+best plain paste, or of sweet paste. They are generally rolled out
+rather thick, and will require about half an hour to bake. The oven
+should be rather quick, and of equal heat throughout; if hotter in one
+part than in another, the paste will draw to one side, and be warped
+and disfigured. The shells should be baked of a light brown. When cool,
+they must be taken out of the dishes on which they were baked, and
+transferred to plates and filled with the fruit.
+
+Shells of puff paste will rise best if baked on flat patty-pans, or tin
+plates. When they are cool, pile the sweetmeats on them in a heap.
+
+The thicker and higher the paste rises, and the more it flakes in
+layers or leaves, the finer it is considered.
+
+Baking paste as empty shells, prevents it from being moist or clammy at
+the bottom.
+
+Tarts are small shells with fruit in them.
+
+PIES.
+
+Pies may be made with any sort of paste. It is a fault to roll it out
+too thin; for if it has not sufficient substance, it will, when baked,
+be dry and tasteless. For a pie, divide the paste into two sheets;
+spread one of them over the bottom and sides of a deep dish well
+buttered. Next put in the fruit or other ingredients, (heaping it
+higher in the centre,) and then place the other sheet of paste on the
+top as a lid or cover; pressing the edges closely down, and afterwards
+crimping or notching them with a sharp small knife.
+
+In making pies of juicy fruit, it is well to put on the centre of the
+under crust a common tea-cup, laying the fruit round it and over it.
+The juice will collect under the cup, and not be liable to run out from
+between the edges. There should be plenty of sugar strewed among the
+fruit as you put it into the pie.
+
+Preserves should never be put into covered pies. The proper way is to
+lay them in baked shells.
+
+All pies are best the day they are baked. If kept twenty-four hours the
+paste falls and becomes comparatively hard, heavy, and unwholesome. If
+the fruit is not ripe, it should be stewed with sugar, and then allowed
+to get cold before it is put into the pie. If put in warm it will make
+the paste heavy. With fruit pies always have a sugar dish on the table,
+in case they should not be found sweet enough.
+
+STANDING PIES.
+
+Cut up half a pound of butter, and put it into a sauce-pan with three
+quarters of a pint of water; cover it, and set it on hot coals. Have
+ready in a pan two pounds of sifted flour; make a hole in the middle of
+it, pour in the melted butter as soon as it boils, and then with a
+spoon gradually mix in the flour. When it is well mixed, knead it with
+your hands into a stiff dough. Sprinkle your paste-board with flour,
+lay the dough upon it, and continue to knead it with your hands till it
+no longer sticks to them, and is quite light. Then let it stand an hour
+to cool. Cut off pieces for the bottom and top; roll them out thick,
+and roll out a long piece for the sides or walls of the pie, which you
+must fix on the bottom so as to stand up all round; cement them
+together with white of egg, pinching and closing them firmly. Then put
+in the ingredients of your pie, (which should be venison, game, or
+poultry,) and lay on the lid or top crust, pinching the edges closely
+together. You may ornament the sides and top with leaves or flowers of
+paste, shaped with a tin cutter, and notch or scollop the edges
+handsomely. Before you set it in the oven glaze it all over with white
+of egg. Bake it four hours. These pies are always eaten cold, and in
+winter will keep two or three weeks, if the air is carefully excluded
+from them; and they may be carried to a considerable distance.
+
+A PYRAMID OF TARTS.
+
+Roll out a sufficient quantity of the best puff paste, or sugar paste;
+and with oval or circular cutters, cut it out into seven or eight
+pieces of different sizes; stamping the middle of each with the cutter
+you intend using for the next. Bake them all separately, and when they
+are cool, place them on a dish in a pyramid, (gradually diminishing in
+size,) the largest piece at the bottom, and the smallest at the top.
+Take various preserved fruits, and lay some of the largest on the lower
+piece of paste; on the next place fruit that is rather smaller; and so
+on till you finish at the top with the smallest sweetmeats you have.
+The upper one may be not so large as a half-dollar, containing only a
+single raspberry or strawberry.
+
+Notch all the edges handsomely. You may ornament the top or pinnacle of
+the pyramid with a sprig of orange blossom or myrtle.
+
+APPLE AND OTHER PIES.
+
+Take fine juicy acid apples; pare, core, and cut them into small
+pieces. Have ready a deep dish that has been lined with paste. Fill it
+with the apples; strewing among them layers of brown sugar, and adding
+the rind of a lemon pared thin, and also the juice squeezed in, or some
+essence of lemon. Put on another sheet of paste as a lid; close the
+edges well, and notch them. Bake the pie in a moderate oven, about
+three quarters of an hour. Eat it with cream and sugar, or with cold
+boiled custard.
+
+If the pie is made of early green apples, they should first be stewed
+with a very little water and plenty of brown sugar.
+
+What are called sweet apples are entirely unfit for cooking, as they
+become tough and tasteless; and it is almost impossible to get them
+sufficiently done.
+
+When you put stewed apples into baked shells, grate nutmeg over the
+top. You may cover them with cream whipped to a stiff froth, and heaped
+on them.
+
+Cranberries and gooseberries should be stewed with sugar before they
+are put into paste. Peaches should be cut in half or quartered, and the
+stones taken out. The stones of cherries and plums should also be
+extracted.
+
+Raspberries or strawberries, mixed with cream and white sugar, may he
+put raw into baked shells.
+
+RHUBARB TARTS.
+
+Take the young green stalks of the rhubarb plant, or spring fruit as it
+is called in England; and having peeled off the thin skin, cut the
+stalks into small pieces about an inch long, and put them into a
+sauce-pan with plenty of brown sugar, and its own juice. Cover it, and
+let it stew slowly till it is soft enough to mash to a marmalade. Then
+set it away to cool. Have ready some fresh baked shells; fill them with
+the stewed rhubarb, and grate white sugar over the top.
+
+For covered pies, cut the rhubarb very small; mix a great deal of sugar
+with it, and put it in raw. Bake the pies about three quarters of an
+hour.
+
+MINCE PIES.
+
+These pies are always made with covers, and should be eaten warm. If
+baked the day before, heat them on the stove or before the fire.
+
+Mince-meat made early in the winter, and packed closely in stone jars,
+will keep till spring, if it has a sufficiency of spice and liquor.
+Whenever you take out any for use, pour some additional brandy into the
+jar before you cover it again, and add some more sugar. No mince-meat,
+however, will keep well unless all the ingredients are of the best
+quality. The meat should always be boiled the day before you want to
+chop it.
+
+GOOD MINCE-MEAT.
+
+Take a bullock’s heart and boil it, or two pounds of the lean of fresh
+beef. When it is quite cold, chop it very fine. Chop three pounds of
+beef suet (first removing the skin and strings) and six pounds of large
+juicy apples that have been pared and cored. Then, stone six pounds of
+the best raisins, (or take sultana raisins that are without stones,)
+and chop them also. Wash and dry three pounds of currants. Mix all
+together; adding to them the grated peel and the juice of two or three
+large oranges, two table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon, two powdered
+nutmegs, and three dozen powdered cloves, a tea-spoonful of beaten
+mace, one pound of fine brown sugar, one quart of Madeira wine, one
+pint of French brandy, and half a pound of citron cut into large slips.
+Having thoroughly mixed the whole, put it into a stone jar, and tie it
+up with brandy paper.
+
+THE BEST MINCE-MEAT,
+
+Take a large fresh tongue, rub it with a mixture, in equal proportions,
+of salt, brown sugar, and powdered cloves. Cover it, and let it lie two
+days, or at least twenty-four hours. Then boil it two hours, and when,
+it is cold, skin it, and mince it very fine. Chop also three pounds of
+beef suet, six pounds of sultana raisins, and six pounds of the best
+pippin apples that have been previously pared and cored. Add three
+pounds of currants, picked, washed and dried; two large table-spoonfuls
+of powdered cinnamon; the juice and grated rinds of four large lemons;
+one pound of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
+pounded in a mortar with half a pint of rose water; also four powdered
+nutmegs; two dozen beaten cloves; and a dozen blades of mace powdered.
+Add a pound of powdered white sugar, and a pound of citron cut into
+slips. Mix all together, and moisten it with a quart of Madeira, and a
+pint of brandy. Put it up closely in a stone jar with brandy paper; and
+when you take any out, add some more sugar and brandy.
+
+Bake this mince-meat in puff paste.
+
+You may reserve the citron to put in when you make the pies. Do not cut
+the slips too small, or the taste will be almost imperceptible.
+
+VERY PLAIN MINCE-MEAT.
+
+Take a piece of fresh beef, consisting of about two pounds of lean, and
+one pound of fat. Boil it, and when it is quite cold, chop it fine. Or
+you may substitute cold roast beef. Pare and core some fine juicy
+apples, cut them in pieces, weigh three pounds, and chop them. Stone
+four pounds of raisins, and chop them also. Add a large table-spoonful
+of powdered cloves, and the same quantity of powdered cinnamon. Also a
+pound of brown sugar. Mix all thoroughly, moistening it with a quart of
+bottled or sweet cider. You may add the grated peel and the juice of an
+orange.
+
+Bake it in good common paste.
+
+This mince-meat will do very well for children or for family use, but
+is too plain to be set before a guest. Neither will it keep so long as
+that which is richer and more highly seasoned. It is best to make no
+more of it at once than you have immediate occasion for.
+
+MINCE-MEAT FOR LENT.
+
+Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and chop the yolks very fine. Chop also a
+dozen pippins, and two pounds of sultana raisins. Add two pounds of
+currants, a pound of sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a
+tea-spoonful of beaten mace, three powdered nutmegs, the juice and
+grated peel of three large lemons, and half a pound of citron cut in
+large strips. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten the whole
+with a pint of white wine, half a pint of rose-water, and half a pint
+of brandy. Bake it in very nice paste.
+
+These mince pies may be eaten by persons who refrain from meat in Lent.
+
+ORANGE PUDDING.
+
+Grate the yellow part of the rind, and squeeze the juice of two large,
+smooth, deep-coloured oranges. Stir together to a cream, half a pound
+of butter, and half a pound of powdered white sugar, and add a
+wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy. Beat very light six eggs, and stir
+them gradually into the mixture. Put it into a buttered dish with a
+broad edge, round which lay a border of puff-paste neatly notched. Bake
+it half an hour, and when cool grate white sugar over it.
+
+You may add to the mixture a Naples biscuit, or two finger biscuits,
+grated.
+
+LEMON PUDDING.
+
+May be made precisely in the same manner as the above; substituting
+lemons for oranges.
+
+QUINCE PUDDING.
+
+Take six large ripe quinces; pare them, and cut out all the blemishes.
+Then scrape them to a pulp, and mix the pulp with half a pint of cream,
+and half a pound of powdered sugar, stirring them together very hard.
+Beat the yolks of seven eggs, (omitting all the whites except two,) and
+stir them gradually into the mixture, adding two wine glasses of rose
+water. Stir the whole well together and bake it in a buttered dish
+three quarters of an hour Grate sugar over it when cold.
+
+If you cannot obtain cream, you may substitute a quarter of a pound of
+fresh butter stirred with the sugar and quince. A baked apple pudding
+may be made in the same manner.
+
+ALMOND PUDDING.
+
+Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of shelled
+bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald and peel them; throwing them,
+as they are peeled, into cold water. Then pound them one at a time in a
+marble mortar, adding to each a few drops of rose water; otherwise they
+will be heavy and oily. Mix the sweet and bitter almonds together by
+pounding them alternately; and as you do them, take them out and lay
+them on a plate. They must each be beaten to a fine smooth paste, free
+from the smallest lumps. It is best to prepare them the day before you
+make the pudding.
+
+Stir to a cream half a pound of fresh butter and half a pound of
+powdered white sugar; and by degrees pour into it a glass of mixed wine
+and brandy. Beat to a stiff froth, the whites only, of twelve eggs,
+(you may reserve the yolks for custards or other purposes,) and stir
+alternately into the butter and sugar the pounded almonds and the
+beaten white of egg. When the whole is well mixed, put it into a
+buttered dish and lay puff paste round the edge. Bake it about half an
+hour, and when cold grate sugar over it.
+
+ANOTHER ALMOND PUDDING.
+
+Blanch three quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three
+ounces of shelled bitter almonds, and beat them in a mortar to a fine
+paste; mixing them well, and adding by degrees a tea-cup full, or more,
+of rose water. Boil in a pint of rich milk, a few sticks of cinnamon
+broken up, and a few blades of mace. When the milk has come to a boil,
+take it off the fire, strain it into a pan, and soak in it five stale
+rusks cut into slices. They must soak till quite dissolved. Stir to a
+cream three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with the same
+quantity of powdered loaf-sugar. Beat ten eggs very light, yolks and
+whites together, and then stir alternately into the butter and sugar,
+the rusk, eggs, and almonds. Set it on a stove or a chafing dish, and
+stir the whole together till very smooth and thick. Put it into a
+buttered dish and bake it three quarters of an hour. It must be eaten
+cool or cold.
+
+COCOA-NUT PUDDING.
+
+Having opened a cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin from the pieces, and
+wash them all in cold water. Then weigh three quarters of a pound, and
+grate it into a dish. Cut up half a pound of butter into half a pound
+of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir them together to a cream; add to them
+a glass of wine and rose water mixed. Beat the whites only, of twelve
+eggs, till they stand alone on the rods; and then stir the grated
+cocoa-nut and the beaten white of egg alternately into the butter and
+sugar; giving the whole a hard stirring at the last. Put the mixture
+into a buttered dish, lay puff paste round the flat edge, and bake it
+half an hour in a moderate oven. When cool, grate powdered sugar over
+it.
+
+ANOTHER COCOA-NUT PUDDING.
+
+Peel and cut up the cocoa-nut, and wash, and wipe the pieces. Weigh one
+pound, and grate it fine. Then, mix with it three stale rusks or small
+sponge-cakes, grated also. Stir together till very light half a pound
+of butter and half a pound of powdered white sugar, and add a glass of
+white wine. Beat six whole eggs very light, and stir them gradually
+into the butter and sugar in turn with the grated cocoa-nut. Having
+stirred the whole very hard at the last, put it into a buttered dish
+and bake it half an hour.
+
+PUMPKIN PUDDING.
+
+Take a pint of pumpkin that has been stewed soft, and pressed through a
+cullender. Melt in half a pint of warm milk, a quarter of a pound of
+butter, and the same quantity of sugar, stirring them well together. If
+you can conveniently procure a pint of rich cream it will be better
+than the milk and butter. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them
+gradually to the other ingredients, alternately with the pumpkin. Then
+stir in a wine glass of rose water and two glasses of wine mixed
+together; a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and
+a grated nutmeg. Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into a
+buttered dish and bake it three quarters of an hour.
+
+A SQUASH PUDDING.
+
+Pare, cut in pieces, and stew in a very little water, a yellow winter
+squash. When it is quite soft, drain it dry, and mash it in a
+cullender. Then put it into a pan, and mix with it a quarter of a pound
+of butter. Prepare two pounded crackers, or an equal quantity of grated
+stale bread. Stir gradually a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar into
+a quart of rich milk, and add by degrees, the squash, and the powdered
+biscuit. Beat nine eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the
+mixture. Add a glass of white wine, a glass of brandy, a glass of rose
+water, and a table-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon
+powdered. Stir the whole very hard, till all the ingredients are
+thoroughly mixed. Bake it three quarters of an hour in a buttered dish;
+and when cold, grate white sugar over it.
+
+YAM PUDDING.
+
+Take one pound of roasted yam, and rub it through a cullender. Mix with
+it half a pound of white sugar, a pint of cream or half a pound of
+butter, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and a
+wine glass of rose water, and one of wine. Set it away to get cold.
+Then beat six eggs very light. Stir them into the mixture. Put it into
+a buttered dish and bake it half an hour. Grate sugar over it when
+cold.
+
+CHESTNUT PUDDING,
+
+May be made in the above manner.
+
+POTATO PUDDING.
+
+Boil a pound of fine potatoes, peel them, mash them, and rub them
+through a cullender. Stir together to a cream, three quarters of a
+pound of sugar and the same quantity of butter. Add to them gradually,
+a wine glass of rose water, a glass of wine, and a glass of brandy; a
+tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and the
+juice and grated peel of a large lemon. Then beat six eggs very light,
+and add them by degrees to the mixture, alternately with the potato.
+Bake it three quarters of an hour in a buttered dish.
+
+SWEET POTATO PUDDING.
+
+Take half a pound of sweet potatoes, wash them, and put them into a pot
+with a very little water, barely enough to keep them from burning. Let
+them simmer slowly for about half an hour; they must be only parboiled,
+otherwise they will be soft, and may make the pudding heavy. When they
+are half done, take them out, peel them, and when cold, grate them.
+Stir together to a cream, half a pound of butter and a quarter of a
+pound and two ounces of powdered sugar, add a grated nutmeg, a large
+tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and half a tea-spoonful of beaten
+mace. Also the juice and grated peel of a lemon, a wine glass of rose
+water, a glass of wine, and a glass of brandy. Stir these ingredients
+well together. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir them into the
+mixture in turn with the sweet potato, a little at a time of each.
+Having stirred the whole very hard at the last, put it into a buttered
+dish and bake it three quarters of an hour.
+
+CARROT PUDDING.
+
+May be made in the above manner.
+
+GREEN CORN PUDDING.
+
+Take twelve ears of green corn, as it is called, (that is, Indian corn
+when full grown, but before it begins to harden and turn yellow,) and
+grate it. Have ready a quart of rich milk, and stir into it by degrees
+a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of
+sugar. Beat four eggs till quite light; and then stir them into the
+milk, &c. alternately with the grated corn, a little of each at a time.
+Put the mixture into a large buttered dish, and bake it four hours. It
+may be eaten either warm or cold, For sauce, beat together butter and
+white sugar in equal proportions, mixed with grated nutmeg.
+
+To make this pudding—you may, if more convenient, boil the corn and cut
+it from the cob; but let it get quite cold before you stir it into the
+milk. If the corn has been previously boiled, the pudding will require
+but two hours to bake.
+
+SAGO PUDDING.
+
+Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of currants; and prepare a
+tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon; a half tea-spoonful of powdered
+mace; and a beaten nutmeg. Have ready six table-spoonfuls of sago,
+picked clean, and soaked for two hours in cold water. Boil the sago in
+a quart of milk till quite soft. Then stir alternately into the milk, a
+quarter of a pound of butter, and six ounces of powdered sugar, and set
+it away to cool. Bent eight eggs, and when they are quite light, stir
+them gradually into the milk, sago, &c. Add the spice, and lastly the
+currants; having dredged them well with flour to prevent their sinking.
+Stir the whole very hard, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it
+three quarters of an hour. Eat it cold.
+
+ARROW ROOT PUDDING.
+
+Take four tea-cups full of arrow root, and dissolve it in a pint of
+cold milk. Then boil another pint of milk with some broken cinnamon,
+and a few bitter almonds or peach-leaves. When done, strain it hot over
+the dissolved arrow root; stir it to a thick smooth batter, and set it
+away to get cold. Next, beat six eggs very light, and stir them into
+the batter, alternately with a quarter of a pound of powdered white
+sugar. Add a grated nutmeg and some fresh lemon-peel grated. Put the
+mixture into a buttered dish, and bake it an hour. When cold, cut some
+slices of preserved quince or peach, and arrange them handsomely all
+over the top of the pudding; or ornament it with strawberries, or
+raspberries preserved whole.
+
+GROUND RICE PUDDING.
+
+Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with a pint of cold milk, till
+it is a smooth batter and free from lumps. Boil three pints of milk;
+and when it has boiled, stir in gradually the rice batter, alternately
+with a quarter of a pound of butter. Keep it over the fire, stirring
+all the time, till the whole is well mixed, and has boiled hard. Then
+take it off, add a quarter of a pound of white sugar; stir it well, and
+set it away to cool. Beat eight eggs very light and stir them into the
+mixture when it is quite cold. Then strain it through a sieve, (this
+will make it more light and delicate,) add a grated nutmeg, and a large
+tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir in the juice and the grated
+peel of a lemon, or a small tea-spoonful of essence of lemon. Put it
+into a deep dish or dishes, and bake it an hour. As soon as it comes
+out of the oven, lay slips of citron over the top; and when cold, strew
+powdered sugar on it.
+
+A RICE PLUM PUDDING.
+
+Take three jills of whole rice; wash it, and boil it in a pint of milk.
+When it is soft, mix in a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it
+aside to cool; and when it is quite cold, stir it into another pint of
+milk. Prepare a pound and a half of raisins or currants; if currants,
+wash and dry them; if raisins, seed them and cut them in half. Dredge
+them well with flour, to prevent their sinking; and prepare also a
+powdered nutmeg; a table-spoonful of mixed mace and cinnamon powdered;
+a wine glass of rose water; and a wine glass of brandy or white wine.
+Beat six eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture, alternately
+with a quarter of a pound of sugar. Then add by degrees the spice and
+the liquor, and lastly, stir in, a few at a time, the raisins or
+currants. Put the pudding into a buttered dish and bake it an hour and
+a half. Send it to table cool.
+
+You may make this pudding of ground rice, using but half a pint instead
+of three jills.
+
+A PLAIN RICE PUDDING.
+
+Pick and wash a pint of rice, and boil it soft. Then drain off the
+water, and let the rice dry and get cold. Afterwards mix with it two
+ounces of butter, and four ounces of sugar, and stir it into a quart of
+rich milk. Beat four or five eggs very light, and add them gradually to
+the mixture. Stir in at the last a table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and
+cinnamon. Bake it an hour in a deep dish.
+
+A FARMER’S RICE PUDDING.
+
+This pudding is made without eggs. Wash half a pint of rice through two
+cold waters, and drain it well. Stir it raw into a quart of rich milk,
+or of cream and milk mixed; adding a quarter of a pound of brown sugar,
+and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Put it into a deep pan, and
+bake it two hours or more. When done, the rice will be perfectly soft,
+which you may ascertain by dipping a tea-spoon into the edge of the
+pudding and taking out a little to try. Eat it cold.
+
+RICE MILK.
+
+Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and boil it in a quart of water till
+it is quite soft. Then drain it, and mix it with a quart of rich milk.
+You may add half a pound of whole raisins. Set it over hot coals, and
+stir it frequently till it boils. When it boils hard, stir in
+alternately two beaten eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of brown
+sugar. Let it continue boiling five minutes longer; then take it off,
+and send it to table hot. If you put in raisins you must let it boil
+till they are quite soft.
+
+A BOILED RICE PUDDING.
+
+Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with a pint of milk, and simmer
+it over hot coals; stirring it all the time to prevent its being lumpy,
+or burning at the bottom. When it is thick and smooth, take it off, and
+pour it into an earthen pan. Mix a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a
+quarter of a pound of butter with half a pint of cream or very rich
+milk, and stir it into the rice; adding a powdered nutmeg, and the
+grated rind of two lemons, or half a tea-spoonful of strong oil of
+lemon. Beat the yolks of six eggs with the whites of two only. When the
+eggs are quite light, mix them gradually with the other ingredients,
+and stir the whole very hard. Butter a large bowl, or a pudding mould.
+Put in the mixture; tying a cloth tightly over the top, (so that no
+water can get in,) and boil it two hours. When done, turn it out into a
+dish. Send it to table warm, and eat it with sweetened cream, flavoured
+with a glass of brandy or white wine and a grated nutmeg.
+
+A MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.
+
+Pare, core and quarter six large ripe pippin apples. Stew them in half
+a pint of water. When they are soft but not broken, take them out,
+drain them through a sieve, and mash them to a paste with the back of a
+spoon. Mix with them six large table-spoonfuls of sugar and a quarter
+of a pound of butter, and set them away to get cold. Grate two milk
+biscuits or email sponge cakes, or an equal quantity of stale bread,
+and grate also the yellow peel, and squeeze the juice of a large lemon.
+Beat six eggs light, and when the apple is cold stir them gradually
+into it, adding the grated biscuit and the lemon. Stir in a wine glass
+of rose water and a grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a buttered dish
+or dishes; lay round the edge a border of puff paste, and bake it three
+quarters of art hour. When cold, grate white sugar over the top, and
+ornament it with slips of citron handsomely arranged.
+
+ALMOND CHEESE CAKE.
+
+This though usually called a cheese cake, is in fact a pudding.
+
+Cut a piece of rennet about two inches square, wash off the salt in
+cold water, and wipe it dry. Put it into a tea-cup, pour on it
+sufficient lukewarm water to cover it, and let it soak all night, or at
+least several hours. Take a quart of milk, which must be made warm, but
+not boiling. Stir the rennet-water into it. Cover it, and set it in a
+warm place. When the curd has become quite firm, and the whey looks
+greenish, drain off the whey, and set the curd in a cool place. While
+the milk is turning, prepare the other ingredients. Wash and dry half a
+pound of currants, and dredge them well with flour. Blanch three ounces
+of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, by scalding and peeling them.
+Then cool them in cold water, wiping them dry before you put them into
+the mortar. If you cannot procure bitter almonds, peach kernels may be
+substituted. Beat them, one at a time, in the mortar to a smooth paste,
+pouring in with every one a few drops of rose water to prevent their
+being oily, dull-coloured, and heavy. If you put a sufficiency of rose
+water, the pounded almond paste will be light, creamy, and perfectly
+white. Mix, as you do them, the sweet and bitter almonds together. Then
+beat the yolks of eight eggs, and when light, mix them gradually with
+the curd. Add five table-spoonfuls of cream, and a tea-spoonful of
+mixed spice. Lastly, stir in, by degrees, the pounded almonds, and the
+currants alternately. Stir the whole mixture very hard. Bake it in
+buttered dishes, laying puff paste round the edges. If accurately made,
+it will be found delicious. It must be put in the oven immediately.
+
+COMMON CHEESE CAKE.
+
+Boil a quart of rich milk. Beat eight eggs, put them to the milk, and
+let the milk and eggs boil together till they become a curd. Then drain
+it through a very clean sieve, till all the whey is out. Put the curd
+into a deep dish, and mix with it half a pound of butter, working them
+well together. When it is cold, add to it the beaten yolks of four
+eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar; also a
+grated nutmeg. Lastly, stir in, by degrees, half a pound of currants
+that have been previously picked, washed, dried, and dredged with
+flour. Lay. puff paste round the rim of the dish, and bake the cheese
+cake half an hour. Send it to table cold.
+
+PRUNE PUDDING.
+
+Scald a pound of prunes; cover them, and let them swell in the hot
+water till they are soft. Then drain them, and extract the stones;
+spread the prunes on a large dish, and dredge them with flour. Take one
+jill or eight large fable-spoonfuls from a quart of rich milk, and stir
+into it, gradually, eight spoonfuls of sifted flour. Mix it to a smooth
+batter, pressing out all the lumps with the back of the spoon. Beat six
+eggs very light, and stir them, by degrees, into the remainder of the
+milk, alternately with the batter that you have just mixed. Then add
+the prunes one at a time, stirring the whole very hard. Tie the pudding
+in a cloth that has been previously dipped in boiling water and then
+dredged with flour. Leave room for it to swell, but secure it firmly,
+so that no water can get in. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and
+boil it two hours. Send it to table hot, (not taking it out of the pot
+till a moment before it is wanted,) and eat it with cream sauce; or
+with butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together, and served up in a
+little tureen. A similar pudding may be made with whole raisins.
+
+EVE’S PUDDING.
+
+Pare, core, and quarter six large pippins, and chop them very fine.
+Grate stale bread till you have six ounces of crumbs, and roll fine six
+ounces of brown sugar. Pick, wash, and dry six ounces of currants, and
+sprinkle them with flour. Mix all these ingredients together in a large
+pan, adding six ounces of butter cut small, and two table-spoonfuls of
+flour. Beat six eggs very light, and moisten the mixture with them. Add
+a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir the
+whole very well together. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Dip your
+pudding cloth into it, shake it out, and dredge it with flour. Then put
+in the mixture, and tie it very firmly; leaving space for the pudding
+to swell, and stopping up the tying place with a paste of wetted flour.
+Boil it three hours; keeping at the fire a kettle of boiling water, to
+replenish the pot, that the pudding may be always well covered. Send it
+to table hot, and eat it with sweetened cream flavoured with wine and
+nutmeg.
+
+CINDERELLAS OR GERMAN PUFFS.
+
+Sift eight table-spoonfuls of the finest flour. Cut up in a quart of
+rich milk, half a pound of fresh butter, and set it on the stove, or
+near the fire, till it has melted. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir
+them gradually into the milk and butter, alternately with the flour.
+Add a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Mix the
+whole very well to a fine smooth batter, in which there must be no
+lumps. Butter some large common tea-cups, and divide the mixture among
+them till they are half full or a little more. Set them immediately in
+a quick oven, and bake them about a quarter of an hour. When done, turn
+them out into a dish and grate white sugar over them. Serve them up
+hot, with a sauce of sweetened cream flavoured with wine and nutmeg; or
+you may eat them with molasses and butter; or with sugar and wine. Send
+them round whole, for they will fall almost as soon as cut.
+
+A BOILED BREAD PUDDING.
+
+Boil a quart of rich milk. While it is boiling, take a small loaf of
+baker’s bread, such as is sold for five or six cents. It may be either
+fresh or stale. Pare off all the crust, and cut up the crumb into very
+small pieces. You should have baker’s bread if you can procure it, as
+home-made bread may not make the pudding light enough. Put the bread
+into a pan; and when the milk boils, pour it scalding hot over the
+bread. Cover the pan closely, and let it steep in the hot steam for
+about three quarters of an hour. Then remove the cover, and allow the
+bread and milk to cool. In the mean time, beat four eggs till they are
+thick and smooth. Then beat into them a table-spoonful and a half of
+fine wheat flour. Next beat the egg and flour into the bread and milk,
+and continue to beat hard till the mixture is as light as possible; for
+on this the success of the pudding chiefly depends.
+
+Have ready over the fire a pot of boiling water. Dip your pudding-cloth
+into it, and shake it out. Spread out the cloth in a deep dish or pan,
+and dredge it well with flour. Pour in the mixture, and tie up the
+cloth, leaving room for it to swell. Tie the string firmly and plaster
+up the opening (if there is any) with flour moistened with water. If
+any water gets into it the pudding will be spoiled.
+
+See that the water boils when you put in the pudding, and keep it
+boiling hard. If the pot wants replenishing, do it with boiling water
+from a kettle. Should you put in cold water to supply the place of that
+which has boiled away, the pudding will chill, and become hard and
+heavy. Boil it an hour and a half.
+
+Turn it out of the bag the minute before you send it to table. Eat it
+with wine sauce, or with sugar and butter, or molasses.
+
+It will be much improved by adding to the mixture half a pound of whole
+raisins, well floured to prevent their sinking. Sultana raisins are
+best, as they have no seeds.
+
+If these directions are exactly followed, this will be found a
+remarkably good and wholesome plain pudding.
+
+For all boiled puddings, a square pudding-cloth which can be opened
+out, is much better than a bag. It should be very thick.
+
+A BAKED BREAD PUDDING.
+
+Take a stale five cent loaf of bread; cut off all the crust, and grate
+or rub the crumb as fine as possible. Boil a quart of rich milk, and
+pour it hot over the bread; then stir in a quarter of a pound of
+butter, and the same quantity of sugar, a glass of wine and brandy
+mixed, or a glass of rose water. Or you may omit the liquor and
+substitute the grated peel of a large lemon. Add a table-spoonful of
+raised cinnamon and nutmeg powdered. Stir the whole very well, cover
+it, and set it away for half an hour. Then let it cool. Beat seven or
+eight eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the mixture after
+it is cold. Then butter a deep dish, and bake the pudding an hour. Send
+it to table cool.
+
+A BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.
+
+Cut some slices of bread and butter moderately thick, omitting the
+crust; stale bread is best. Butter a deep dish, and cover the bottom
+with slices of the buttered bread. Have ready a pound of currants,
+picked, washed and dried. Spread one third of them thickly over the
+bread and butter, and strew on some brown sugar. Then put another layer
+of bread and butter, and cover it also with currants and sugar. Finish
+with a third layer of each, and pour over the whole four eggs, beaten
+very light and mixed with a pint of milk, and a wine glass of rose
+water. Bake the pudding an hour, and grate nutmeg over it when done.
+Eat it warm, but not hot.
+
+You may substitute for the currants, raisins seeded, and cut in half.
+
+This pudding may be made also with layers of stewed gooseberries
+instead of the currants, or with pippin apples pared, cored and minced
+fine.
+
+A SUET PUDDING.
+
+Mince very finely as much beef suet as will make two large
+table-spoonfuls. Grate two handfuls of bread-crumbs; boil a quart of
+milk and pour it hot on the bread. Cover it, and set it aside to steep
+for half an hour; then put it to cool. Beat eight eggs very light; stir
+the suet, and three table-spoonfuls of floor alternately into the bread
+and milk, and add, by degrees, the eggs. Lastly, stir in a
+table-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon mixed, and a glass of
+mixed wine and brandy. Pour it into a bag that has been dipped in hot
+water and floured; tie it firmly, put it into a pot of boiling water,
+and boil it two hours. Do not take it up till immediately before it is
+wanted, and send it to table hot.
+
+Eat it with wine sauce, or with molasses.
+
+A CUSTARD PUDDING.
+
+Take five table-spoonfuls out of a quart of cream or rich milk, and mix
+them with two large spoonfuls of fine flour. Set the rest of the milk
+to boil, flavouring it with half a dozen peach leaves, or with bitter
+almonds broken up. When it has boiled hard, take it off, strain it, and
+stir in the cold milk and flour. Set it away to cool, and beat very
+light ten yolks and four whites of eggs; add them to the milk, and stir
+in, at the last, a glass of brandy, or white wine, a powdered nutmeg,
+and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Butter a large bowl or mould; pour
+in the mixture; tie a cloth tightly over it; put it into a pot of
+boiling water, and boil it two hours, replenishing the pot with hot
+water from a tea-kettle. When the pudding is done, let it get cool
+before you turn it out. Eat it with butter and sugar stirred together
+to a cream, and flavoured with lemon.
+
+FLOUR HASTY PUDDING.
+
+Tie together half a dozen peach leaves, put them into a quart of milk,
+and set it on the fire to boil. When it has come to a hard boil, take
+out the leaves, but let the pot remain boiling on the fire. Then with a
+large wooden spoon in one hand, and some wheat flour in the other,
+thicken and stir it till it is about the consistence of a boiled
+custard. Afterwards throw in, one at a time, a dozen small bits of
+butter rolled in a thick coat of flour. You may enrich it by stirring
+in a beaten egg or two, a few minutes before you take it from the fire.
+When done, pour it into a deep dish, and strew brown sugar thickly over
+the top. Eat it warm.
+
+INDIAN MUSH.
+
+Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling water. Stir into it by degrees
+(a handful at a time) sufficient Indian meal to make it very thick, and
+then add a very small portion of salt. You must keep the pot boiling on
+the fire all the time you are throwing in the meal; and between every
+handful, stir very hard with the mush-stick, (a round stick flattened
+at one end,) that the mush may not be lumpy. After it is sufficiently
+thick, keep it boiling for an hour longer, stirring it occasionally.
+Then cover the pot, and hang it higher up the chimney, so as to simmer
+slowly or keep hot for another hour. The goodness of mush depends
+greatly on its being long and thoroughly boiled. If sufficiency cooked,
+it is wholesome and nutritious, but exactly the reverse, if made in
+haste. It is not too long to have it altogether three of four hours
+over the fire; on the contrary it will be much the better for it.
+
+Eat it warm; either with milk, or cover your plate with mush, make a
+hole in the middle, put some butter in the hole and fill it up with
+molasses.
+
+Cold mush that has been left, may be cut into slices and fried in
+butter.
+
+Burgoo is made precisely in the same manner as mush, but with oatmeal
+instead of Indian.
+
+A BAKED INDIAN PUDDING.
+
+Cut up a quarter of a pound of butter in a pint of molasses, and warm
+them together till the butter is melted. Boil a quart of milk; and
+while scalding hot, pour it slowly over a pint of sifted Indian meal,
+and stir in the molasses and butter. Cover it, and let it steep for an
+hour. Then take off the cover, and set the mixture to cool. When it is
+cold, beat six eggs, and stir them gradually into it; add a
+table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and nutmeg; and the grated peel of a
+lemon. Stir the whole very hard; put it into a buttered dish, and bake
+it two hours. Serve it up hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with
+butter and molasses.
+
+A BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.
+
+Chop very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet, and mix it with a
+pint of sifted Indian meal. Boil a quart of milk with some pieces of
+cinnamon broken up; strain it, and while it is hot, stir in gradually
+the meal and suet; add half a pint of molasses. Cover the mixture and
+set it away for an hour; then put it to cool. Beat six eggs, and stir
+them gradually into the mixture when it is cold; add a grated nutmeg,
+and the grated peel of a lemon. Tie the pudding in a cloth that has
+been dipped in hot water and floured; and leave plenty of room for it
+to swell. Secure it well at the tying place lest the water should get
+in, which will infallibly spoil it. Put it into a pot of boiling water,
+(which must be replenished as it boils away,) and boil it four hours at
+least; but five or six will be better. To have an Indian pudding _very
+good_, it should be mixed the night before, (all except the eggs,) and
+put on to boil early in the morning. Do not take it out of the pot till
+immediately before it is wanted. Eat it with wine sauce, or with
+molasses and butter.
+
+INDIAN PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS.
+
+Boil some cinnamon in a quart of milk, and then strain it. While the
+milk is hot, stir into it a pint of molasses, and then add by degrees a
+quart or more of Indian meal so as to make a thick batter. It will be
+much improved by the grated peel and juice of a large lemon or orange.
+Tie it very securely in a thick cloth, leaving room for it to swell,
+and pasting up the tying-place with a lump of flour and water. Put it
+into a pot of boiling water, (having ready a kettle to fill it up as it
+boils away,) hang it over a good fire, and keep it boiling hard for
+four or five hours. Eat it warm with molasses and butter.
+
+This is a very economical, and not an unpalatable pudding; and may be
+found convenient when it is difficult to obtain eggs.
+
+A BAKED PLUM PUDDING.
+
+Grate all the crumb of a stale six cent loaf; boil a quart of rich
+milk, and pour it boiling hot over the grated bread; cover it, and let
+it steep for an hour; then set it out to cool. In the mean time prepare
+half a pound of currants, picked, washed, and dried; half a pound of
+raisins, stoned and cut in half; and a quarter of a pound of citron cut
+in large slips; also, two nutmegs beaten to a powder; and a
+table-spoonful of mace and cinnamon powdered and mixed together. Crush
+with a rolling-pin half a pound of sugar, and cut up half a pound of
+butter. When the bread and milk is uncovered to cool, mix with it the
+butter, sugar, spice and citron; adding a glass of brandy, and a glass
+of white wine. Beat eight eggs very light, and when the milk is quite
+cold, stir them gradually into the mixture. Then add, by degrees, the
+raisins and currants, (which must be previously dredged with flour) and
+stir the whole very hard. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake it two
+hours. Send it to table warm, and eat it with wine sauce, or with wine
+and sugar only.
+
+In making this pudding, you may substitute for the butter, half a pound
+of beef suet minced as fine as possible. It will be found best to
+prepare the ingredients the day before, covering them closely and
+putting them away.
+
+A BOILED PLUM PUDDING.
+
+Grate the crumb of a twelve cent loaf of bread, and boil a quart of
+rich milk with a small bunch of peach leaves in it, then strain it and
+set it out to cool. Pick, wash and dry a pound of currants, and stone
+and cut in half a pound of raisins; strew over them three large
+table-spoonfuls of flour. Roll fine a pound of brown sugar, and mince
+as fine as possible three quarters of a pound of beef suet. Prepare two
+beaten nutmegs, and a large table-spoonful of powdered mace and
+cinnamon; also the grated peel and the juice of two large lemons or
+oranges. Beat ten eggs very light, and (when it is cold) stir them
+gradually into the milk, alternately with the suet and grated bread.
+
+Add, by degrees, the sugar, fruit, and spice, with a large glass of
+brandy, and one of white wine. Mix the whole very well, and stir it
+hard. Then put it into a thick cloth that has been scalded and floured;
+leave room for it to swell, and tie it very firmly, pasting the
+tying-place with a small lump of moistened flour. Put the pudding into
+a large pot of boiling water, and boil it steadily five hours,
+replenishing the pot occasionally from a boiling kettle. Turn the
+pudding frequently in the pot. Prepare half a pound of citron cut in
+slips, and half a pound of almonds blanched and split in half
+lengthways. Stick the almonds and the citron all over the outside of
+the pudding as soon as you take it out of the cloth. Send it to table
+hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with cold wine and sugar.
+
+If there is enough of the pudding left, it may be cut in slices, and
+fried in butter next day.
+
+All the ingredients of this plum pudding (except the eggs) should be
+prepared the day before, otherwise it cannot be made in time to allow
+of its being sufficiently boiled.
+
+We have known of a very rich plum pudding being mixed in England and
+sent to America in a covered bowl; it arrived perfectly good after a
+month’s voyage, the season being winter.
+
+A BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
+
+Take nine large pippin apples; pare and core them whole. Set them in
+the bottom of a large deep dish, and pour round them a very little
+water, just enough to keep them from burning. Put them into an oven,
+and let them bake about half an hour. In the mean time, mix three
+table-spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, a quarter of a pound of
+brown sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice. Beat seven eggs very
+light, and stir them gradually into the milk. Then take out the dish of
+apples, (which by this time should be half baked,) and fill up the
+holes from whence you extracted the cores, with brown sugar; pressing
+down into each a slice of fresh lemon. Pour the batter round the
+apples; put the dish again into the oven, and let it bake another half
+hour; but not long enough for the apples to fall to pieces; as they
+should, when done, be soft throughout, but quite whole. Send it to
+table warm.
+
+This is sometimes called a _Bird’s Nest Pudding_.
+
+It will be much improved by previously boiling in the milk a small
+handful of peach leaves. Let it get cold before you stir in the eggs.
+
+BOILED APPLE PUDDING.
+
+Pare, core, and quarter as many fine juicy apples as will weigh two
+pounds when done. Strew among them a quarter of a pound of brown sugar,
+and add a grated nutmeg, and the juice and yellow peel of a large
+lemon. Prepare a paste of suet and flour, in the proportion of a pound
+of chopped suet to two pounds of flour. Roll it out of moderate
+thickness; lay the apples in the centre, and close the paste nicely
+over them in the form of a large dumpling; tie it in a cloth and boil
+it three hours. Send it to table hot, and eat with it cream sauce, or
+with butter and sugar.
+
+Any fruit pudding may be made in a similar manner.
+
+AN EASTERN PUDDING.
+
+Make a paste of a pound of flour and half a pound of minced suet; and
+roll it out thin into a square or oblong sheet; trim off the edges so
+as to make it an even shape. Spread thickly over it some marmalade, or
+cold stewed fruit, (which must be made very sweet,) either apple,
+peach, plum, gooseberry or cranberry. Roll up the paste, with the fruit
+spread on it, into a scroll. Secure each end by putting on nicely a
+thin round piece rolled out from the trimmings that you cut off the
+edges of the sheet. Put the pudding into a cloth, and boil it at least
+three hours. Serve it up hot, and eat it with cream sauce, or with
+butter and sugar.
+
+APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take large fine juicy apples. Pare them, and extract the cores without
+dividing the apple. Fill each hole with brown sugar, and some chips of
+lemon peel. Also squeeze in some lemon juice. Or you may fill the
+cavities with raspberry jam, or with any sort of marmalade. Have ready
+a paste, made in the proportion of a pound of suet, chopped as fine as
+possible, to two pounds and a half of sifted flour, well mixed, and
+wetted with as little water as possible. Roll out the paste to a
+moderate thickness, and cut it into circular pieces, allowing two
+pieces to each dumpling. Lay your apple on one piece, and put another
+piece on the top, closing the paste round the sides with your fingers,
+so as to cover the apple entirely. This is a better way than gathering
+up the paste at one end, as the dumpling is less liable to burst. Boil
+each dumpling in a small coarse cloth, which has first been dipped in
+hot water. There should always be a set of cloths kept for the purpose.
+Tie them tightly, leaving a small space for the dumpling to swell.
+Plaster a little flour on the inside of each tying place to prevent the
+water from getting in. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Put in the
+dumplings and boil them from three quarters to an hour. Send them to
+table hot in a covered dish. Do not take them up till a moment before
+they are wanted.
+
+Eat them with cream and sugar, or with butter and sugar.
+
+You may make the paste with butter instead of suet, allowing a pound of
+butter to two pounds and a quarter of flour. But when paste is to be
+boiled, suet will make it much lighter and finer than butter.
+
+Apple dumplings may be made in a very plain manner with potato paste,
+and boiled without cloths, dredging the outside of each dumpling with
+flour. They should boil about three quarters of an hour when without
+cloths.
+
+The apples for dumplings should always be whole, (except the cores;)
+for if quartered, the pieces will separate in boiling and break through
+the crust. The apples should never be sweet ones.
+
+RICE DUMPLINGS.
+
+Pick and wash a pound of rice, and boil it gently in two quarts of
+water till it becomes dry; keeping the pot well covered, and not
+stirring it. Then take it off the fire, and spread it out to cool on
+the bottom, of an inverted sieve; loosening the grains lightly with a
+fork, that all the moisture may evaporate. Pare a dozen pippins or
+other, large juicy apples, and scoop out the core. Then fill up the
+cavity with marmalade, or with lemon and sugar. Cover every apple all
+over with a thick coating of the boiled rice. Tie up each in a
+separate, cloth, [Footnote: Your pudding and dumpling cloths should be
+squares of coarse thick linen, hemmed, and with tape strings sewed to
+them. After using, they should be washed, dried, and ironed; and kept
+in one of the kitchen drawers, that they may be always ready when
+wanted.] and put them into a pot of cold water. They will require about
+an hour and a quarter after they begin to boil; perhaps longer.
+
+Turn them out on a large dish, and be careful in doing so not to break
+the dumplings. Eat them with cream sauce, or with wine sauce, or with
+butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together.
+
+PIGEON DUMPLINGS OR PUDDINGS.
+
+Take four pigeons and stuff them with chopped oysters, seasoned with
+pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg. Score the breasts, and loosen all the
+joints with a sharp knife, as if you were going to carve them for
+eating; but do not cut them quite apart. Make a sufficient quantity of
+nice suet paste, allowing a pound of suet to two pounds of flour; roll
+it out thick, and divide it into four. Lay one pigeon on each sheet of
+the paste with the back downwards, and put at the lower part of the
+breast a piece of butter rolled in flour. Close the paste over the
+pigeon in the form of a dumpling or small pudding; pouring in at the
+last a very little cold water to add to the gravy. Tie each dumpling in
+a cloth, put them into a pot of hot water, and boil them two hours.
+Send them to table with made gravy in a boat.
+
+Partridges or quails may be cooked in this manner; also chickens, which
+must be accompanied by egg sauce. These dumplings or puddings will be
+found very good.
+
+FINE SUET DUMPLINGS.
+
+Grate the crumb of a stale six cent loaf, and mix it with nearly as
+much beef suet, chopped as fine as possible. Add a grated nutmeg, and
+two large table-spoonfuls of sugar. Beat four eggs with four
+table-spoonfuls of white wine or brandy. Mix all well together to a
+stiff paste. Flour your hands, and make up the mixture into balls or
+dumplings about the size of turkey eggs. Have ready a pot of boiling
+water. Put the dumplings into cloths, and let them boil about half an
+hour. Serve them hot, and eat them with wine sauce.
+
+PLAIN SUET DUMPLINGS.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and add a salt-spoon of salt.
+Mince very fine one pound of beef suet, and rub it into the flour. Make
+it into a stiff dough with a little cold water. Then roll it out an
+inch thick or rather more. Cut it into dumplings with the edge of a
+tumbler. Put them into a pot of boiling water, and let them boil an
+hour and a half. Send them to table hot, to eat with boiled loin of
+mutton, or with molasses after the meat is removed.
+
+INDIAN DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take a pint of milk, and four eggs well beaten. Stir them together, and
+add a salt-spoon of salt. Then mix in as much sifted Indian meal as
+will make a stiff dough. Flour your hands; divide the dough into equal
+portions, and make it into balls about the size of a goose egg. Flatten
+each with the rolling-pin, tie them in cloths, and put them into a pot
+of boiling water. They will boil in a short time. Take care not to let
+them go to pieces by keeping them too long in the pot.
+
+Serve them up hot, and eat them with corned pork, or with bacon. Or you
+may eat them with molasses and butter after the meat is removed.
+
+If to be eaten without meat, you may mix in the dough a quarter of a
+pound of finely chopped suet.
+
+LIVER DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take a calf’s liver, and chop it very fine. Mix with it half a pound of
+beef suet chopped line also; half a pound of flour; two minced onions;
+a handful of bread-crumbs; a table-spoonful of chopped parsley and
+sweet marjoram mixed; a few blades of mace and a few cloves powdered;
+and a little pepper and salt. Mix all well together. Wet the mixture
+with six eggs well beaten, and make it up into dumplings, with your
+hands well floured. Have ready a large pot of boiling water. Drop the
+dumplings into it with a ladle, and let them boil an hour. Have ready
+bread-crumbs browned in butter to poor over them before they go to
+table.
+
+HAM DUMPLINGS.
+
+Chop some cold ham, the fat and lean in equal proportions. Season it
+with pepper and minced sage. Make a crust, allowing half a pound of
+chopped suet; or half a pound of butter to a pound of flour. Roll it
+out thick, and divide it into equal portions. Put some minced ham into
+each, and close up the crust. Have ready a pot of boiling water, and
+put in the dumplings. Boil them about three quarters of an hour.
+
+LIGHT DUMPLINGS.
+
+Mix together as much grated bread, butter and beaten egg (seasoned with
+powdered cinnamon) as will make a stiff paste. Stir it well. Make the
+mixture into round dumplings, with your hands well floured. Tie up each
+in a separate cloth, and boil them a short time,—about fifteen minutes.
+Eat them with wine sauce, or with molasses and butter.
+
+PLAIN FRITTERS.
+
+Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a quart of
+milk; add, by degrees, three quarters of a pound, or a pint and a half
+of sifted flour. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready in a frying-pan
+over the fire, a large quantity of lard. When the lard has come to a
+hard boil, begin to put in the fritters; allowing for each about a jill
+of batter, or half a large tea-cup full. They do not require turning,
+and will be done in a few minutes. Fry as many at a time as the pan
+will hold. Send them to table hot, and eat them with powdered cinnamon,
+sugar, and white wine. Let fresh hot ones be sent in as they are
+wanted; they chill and become heavy immediately.
+
+Begin to fry the fritters as soon as the batter is mixed, as it will
+fall by setting. Near a pound and a half of lard will be required for
+the above quantity of fritters.
+
+APPLE FRITTERS.
+
+Pave, core, and parboil (in a very little water) some large juicy
+pippins. When half done, take them out, drain them, and mince them very
+fine. Make a batter according to the preceding receipt; adding some
+lemon juice and grated lemon-peel. Stir into the batter a sufficient
+quantity of the minced apple to make it very thick. Then fry the
+fritters in hot lard as before directed. Eat them with nutmeg and
+sugar.
+
+PLAIN PANCAKES.
+
+Sift half a pound or a pint of flour. Beat seven eggs very light, and
+stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk. Then add by degrees the
+flour, so as to make a thin batter. Mix it very smooth, pressing out
+all the lumps with the back of a spoon. Set the frying-pan over the
+fire, and when it is hot, grease it with a spoonful of lard. Then put
+in a ladle full of the batter, and fry it of a light brown, turning it
+with care to prevent its breaking. Make each pancake large enough to
+cover the bottom of a dessert plate; greasing the pan every time. Send
+them to table hot, accompanied by powdered sugar and nutmeg mixed in a
+small glass bowl. Have wine with them also.
+
+SWEETMEAT PANCAKES.
+
+Take a large red beet-root that has been boiled tender; cut it up and
+pound it in a mortar till you have sufficient juice for colouring the
+pancakes. Then make a batter as in the preceding receipt, and stir into
+it at the last enough of the beet juice to give it a fine pink colour.
+Or instead of the beet juice, you may use a little cochineal dissolved
+in a very small quantity of brandy. Fry the pancakes in a pan greased
+with lard or fresh butter; and as fast as they are done, spread thickly
+over them raspberry jam or any sort of marmalade. Then roll them up
+nicely, and trim off the ends. Lay them, side by side, on a large dish,
+and strew powdered sugar over them. Send them to table hot, and eat
+them with sweetened cream.
+
+PLAIN CUSTARDS.
+
+Tie together six or eight peach leaves, and boil them in a quart of
+milk with a large stick of cinnamon broken up. If you cannot procure
+peach leaves, substitute a handful of peach-kernels or bitter almonds,
+or a vanilla bean split in pieces. When it has boiled hard, strain the
+milk and set it away to cool. Beat very light eight eggs, and stir them
+by degrees into the milk when it is quite cold, (if warm, the eggs will
+curdle it, and cause whey at the bottom,) and add gradually a quarter
+of a pound of sugar. Fill your cups with it; set them in a Dutch-oven,
+and pour round them boiling water sufficient to reach nearly to the
+tops of the cups. Put hot coals under the oven and on the lid, (which
+must be previously heated by standing it up before a hot fire,) and
+bake the custards about twenty minutes. Send them to table cold, with
+nutmeg grated over each. Or you may bake the whole in one large dish.
+
+SOFT CUSTARDS.
+
+Are made in the above manner, except that to a quart of milk you must
+have twelve yolks of eggs, and no whites. You may devote to this
+purpose the yolks that are left when you have used the whites for
+cocoa-nut or almond puddings, or for lady cake or maccaroons.
+
+BOILED CUSTARDS.
+
+Beat eight eggs very light, omitting the whites of four. Mix them
+gradually with a quart of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of sugar.
+Put the mixture into a sauce-pan with a bunch of peach leaves, or a
+handful of broken up peach-kernels or bitter almonds; the yellow peel
+of a. lemon, and a handful of broken cinnamon; or you may boil in it a
+vanilla bean. Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly, stirring it
+all the time. As soon as it comes to a boil, take it immediately off
+the fire, or it will curdle and be lumpy. Then strain it; add eight or
+ten drops of oil of lemon, and put it into glass cups. You may lay in
+the bottom of each cup a maccaroon soaked in wine. Grate nutmeg over
+the top, and send it to table cold. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.
+
+RICE CUSTARD.
+
+Boil some rice in milk till it is quite dry; then put it into small
+tea-cups, (pressing it down hard,) and when it is cold and has taken
+the shape of the cups, turn it out into a deep dish, and pour a boiled
+custard round it. Lay on the top of each lump of rice a piece of
+preserved quince or peach, or a piece of fruit jelly. In boiling the
+rice, you may mix with, it raisins or currants; if so, omit the
+sweetmeats on the top.
+
+Another way of boiling custard is to put the mixture into a pitches,
+set it in a vessel of boiling water, place it on hot coals or in a
+stove, and let it boil slowly, stirring it all the time.
+
+SNOWBALL CUSTARD.
+
+Make a boiled custard as in the preceding receipts; and when it is done
+and quite cold, put it into a deep glass dish. Beat to a stiff froth
+the four whites of eggs that have been omitted in the custard, adding
+eight or ten drops of oil of lemon. Drop the froth in balls on the top
+of the dish of custard, heaping and forming them with a spoon into a
+regular size and shape. Do not let them touch each other. You may lay a
+fresh, rose leaf on the top of every one.
+
+APPLE CUSTARD.
+
+Pare, core, and quarter a dozen large juicy pippins. Strew among them
+the yellow peel of a large lemon pared very thin; and stew them till
+tender, in a very small portion of water. When done, mash them smooth
+with the back of a spoon; (you must have a pint and a half of the
+stewed apple;) mix a quarter of a pound of sugar with them, and set
+them away till cold. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them gradually
+into a quart of rich milk, alternately with the stewed apple. Put the
+mixture into cups, or into a deep dish, and bake it about twenty
+minutes. Send it to table cold, with nutmeg grated over the top.
+
+LEMON CUSTARD.
+
+Take four large ripe lemons, and roll them under your hand on the table
+to increase the juice. Then squeeze them into a bowl, and mix with the
+juice a very small tea-cup full of cold water. Use none of the peel.
+Add gradually sufficient sugar to make it very sweet. Beat twelve eggs
+till quite light, and then stir the lemon juice gradually into them,
+beating very hard at the last. Put the mixture into cups, and bake it
+ten minutes. When done, grate nutmeg over the top of each, and set them
+among ice, or in a very cold place.
+
+These custards being made without milk, can be prepared at a short
+notice; they will be found very fine.
+
+Orange custards may be made in the same manner.
+
+GOOSEBERRY CUSTARD.
+
+Top and tail two quarts of green gooseberries. Stew them in a very
+little water; stirring and mashing them frequently. When they have
+stewed till entirely to pieces, take them out, and with a wooden spoon
+press the pulp through a cullender. Stir in (while the pulp is hot) a
+table-spoonful of butter, and sufficient sugar to make it very sweet.
+Beat six eggs very light. Simmer the gooseberry pulp over a gentle
+fire, and gradually stir the beaten eggs into it. When it comes to a
+boil, take it off immediately, stir it very hard, and set it out to
+cool. Serve it up cold in glasses or custard cups, grating some nutmeg;
+over each.
+
+ALMOND CUSTARD.
+
+Scald and blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three
+ounces of shelled bitter almonds; throwing them as you do them into a
+large bowl of cold water. Then pound them one at a time in a mortar;
+pouring in frequently a little rose water to prevent their oiling, and
+becoming dark-coloured and heavy. Melt a quarter of a pound of
+loaf-sugar in a quart of cream or rich milk, and stir in by degrees the
+pounded almonds. Beat ten eggs very light, and stir them gradually into
+the mixture; adding a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
+mace and cinnamon mixed. Then put the whole into a pitcher, and place
+it in a kettle or pan of boiling water, the water coming up to the
+lower part of the neck of the pitcher. Set it over hot coals, and let
+it boil (stirring it all the time) till it is quite thick, but not till
+it curdles. Then take the pitcher out of the water; pour the custard
+into a large bowl, and stir it till it cools. Put it into glass cups,
+and send it to table cold. Sweeten some cream or white of egg. Beat it
+to stiff froth, and pile it on the top of the custards.
+
+BOILED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.
+
+To a pound of grated cocoa-nut allow a pint of unskimmed milk, and six
+ounces of white sugar. Beat very light the yolks of six eggs. Stir them
+gradually into the milk, alternately with the cocoa-nut and sugar. Put
+the mixture into a pitcher; set it in a vessel of boiling water; place
+it on hot coals, and simmer it till it is very smooth and thick;
+stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes to a hard boil, take it
+off the fire; pour it into a large bowl, and set it out to cool. When
+cold, put it into glass cups. Beat to a stiff froth the white of egg
+that was left, and pile it on the custards.
+
+BAKED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.
+
+Grate as much cocoa-nut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of
+powdered white sugar with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or with a pint of
+cream; adding two table-spoonfuls of rose water. Then stir in gradually
+a pint of rich milk. Beat to a stiff froth the whites of eight eggs,
+and stir them into the milk and sugar, a little at a time, alternately
+with the grated cocoa-nut; add a tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and
+cinnamon. Then put the mixture into cups, and bake them twenty minutes
+in a Dutch oven half filled with boiling water. When cold, grate
+loaf-sugar over them.
+
+CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.
+
+Scrape fine a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, and pour on it
+a tea-cup of boiling water. Cover it, and let it stand by the fire till
+it has dissolved, stirring it twice. Beat eight eggs very light,
+omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into a quart of cream
+or rich milk, alternately with the melted chocolate, and three
+table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Pat the mixture into cups, and
+bake it about ten minutes. Send them to table cold, with sweetened
+cream, or white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, and heaped on the top
+of each custard.
+
+MACCAROON CUSTARDS.
+
+These must he made in china custard cups. Put a maccaroon in the bottom
+of each cup, and pour on it a table-spoonful of white wine. Mix
+together a pint of cream, and a pint of milk; and boil them with a
+large stick of cinnamon broken up, and a small bunch of peach leaves or
+a handful of broken bitter almonds. Then strain the milk; stir in a
+quarter of a pound of white sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat very
+light eight eggs, (omitting the whites of four,) and stir them
+gradually into the cream and milk when quite cold. Fill your cups with
+the mixture, (leaving the maccaroons at the bottom,) and set them in a
+Dutch oven or iron baking pan, which must be half full of boiling
+water. Heat the oven-lid first, by standing it up before a hot fire;
+then put it on, spreading coals over the top. Place sufficient coals
+under the oven, and bake the custards about ten minutes. When cold,
+heap beaten white of egg on the top of each. These custards are very
+fine.
+
+
+
+
+SYLLABUB, OR WHIPT CREAM.
+
+
+Pare off very thin the yellow rind of four large lemons, And lay it in
+the bottom of a deep dish. Squeeze the juice of the lemons into a large
+bowl containing a pint of white wine, and sweeten it with half a pound
+of powdered loaf-sugar Then, by degrees, mix in a quart of cream. Pour
+the whole into the dish in which you have laid the lemon-peel, and let
+the mixture stand untouched for three hours. Then beat it with rods to
+a stiff froth, (first taking out the lemon-peel,) and having put into
+each of your glasses a table-spoonful or more of fruit jelly, heap the
+syllabub upon it so as to stand up high at the top. This syllabub, if
+it can be kept in a cold place, may be made the day before you want to
+use it.
+
+COUNTRY SYLLABUB.
+
+Mix half a pound of white sugar with a pint of fine sweet cider, or of
+white wine; and grate in a nutmeg. Prepare them in a large bowl, just
+before milking time. Then let it be taken to the cow, and have about
+three pints milked into it; stirring it occasionally with a spoon. Let
+it be eaten before the froth subsides. If you use cider, a little
+brandy will improve it.
+
+A TRIFLE.
+
+Place half a pound of maccaroons or Naples biscuits at the bottom of a
+large glass bowl. Pour on them as much white wine as will cover and
+dissolve them. Make a rich custard, flavoured with bitter almonds or
+peach leaves; and pour it when cold on the maccaroons; the custard may
+be either baked or boiled. Then add a layer of marmalade or jam. Take a
+quart of cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a
+pint of white wine, and whip it with rods to a stiff froth; laying the
+froth (as you proceed) on an inverted sieve, with a dish under it to
+catch the cream that drips through; which must be saved and whipped
+over again. Instead of rods you may use a little tin churn. Pile the
+frothed cream upon the marmalade in a high pyramid. To ornament
+it,—take preserved water-melon rind that has been cut into leaves or
+flowers; split them nicely to make them thinner and lighter; place a
+circle or wreath of them round the heap of frothed cream, interspersing
+them with spots of stiff red currant jelly. Stick on the top of the
+pyramid a sprig of real flowers.
+
+FLOATING ISLAND.
+
+Take a quart of rich cream, and divide it in half. Sweeten one pint of
+it with loaf-sugar, and stir into it sufficient currant jelly to colour
+it of a fine pink. Put it into a glass bowl, and place in the centre a
+pile of sliced almond-sponge cake, or of lady cake; every slice spread
+thickly with raspberry jam or marmalade, and laid evenly one on
+another. Have ready the other pint of cream, flavoured with a few drops
+of oil of lemon, and beaten with rods to a stiff froth. Heap it all
+over the pile of cake, so as entirely to cover it.
+
+A RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE.
+
+Take a dozen of the square or oblong sponge-cakes that are commonly
+called Naples biscuits. They should be quite fresh. Spread over each a
+thick layer of raspberry jam, and place them in the bottom and round
+the sides of a glass bowl. Take the whites of six eggs, and mix with
+them six table-spoonfuls of raspberry or currant jelly. Beat the egg
+and jelly with rods till very light, and then fill up the bowl with it.
+For this purpose, cream (if you can conveniently procure it) is still
+better than white of egg.
+
+You may make a charlotte with any sort of jam, marmalade, or fruit
+jelly. It can be prepared at a short notice, and is very generally
+liked.
+
+A PLUM CHARLOTTE.
+
+Stone a quart of ripe plums, and stew them with a pound of brown sugar.
+Cut slices of bread and butter and lay them in the bottom and round the
+sides of a large bowl or deep dish. Pour in the plums boiling hot,
+cover the bowl, and set it away to cool gradually. When, quite cold,
+send it to table, and eat it with cream.
+
+CLOTTED CREAM.
+
+Mix together a jill of rich milk, a large wine glass of rose water, and
+four ounces of white sugar. Add to it the beaten yolks of two eggs.
+Stir the mixture into a quart of the best cream; set it over hot coals,
+and let it just come to a boil, stirring it all the time. Then take it
+off, pour it into a glass bowl, and set it away to get cold. Eat it
+with fresh strawberries, raspberries, or with any sort of sweetmeats.
+
+LEMON CREAM.
+
+Beat well together a quart of thick cream and the yolks of eight eggs.
+Then gradually beat in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and the
+grated rind of three large lemons. Put the mixture into a porcelain
+skillet, and set it on hot coals till it comes to a boil; then take it
+off, and stir it till nearly cold. Squeeze the juice of the lemons into
+a bowl; pour the cream upon it, and continue to stir it till quite
+cold. You may serve it up in a glass bowl, in glass cups, or in jelly
+glasses. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.
+
+ORANGE CREAM.
+
+Beat very light six eggs, omitting the whites of two. Have ready a pint
+of orange juice, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg, alternately
+with a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put into a porcelain skillet the
+yellow rind of one orange, pared very thin; pour the mixture upon it,
+and set it over a slow fire. Simmer it steadily, stirring it all the
+time; but when nearly ready to boil, take it off, remove the
+orange-peel, and put the mixture into glasses to get cold.
+
+CURDS AND WHEY.
+
+Take a piece of rennet about three inches square, and wash it in two or
+three cold waters to get off the salt; wipe it dry, and fasten a string
+to one corner of it. Have ready in a deep dish or pan, a quart of
+unskimmed milk that has been warmed but not boiled. Put the rennet into
+it, leaving the string hanging out over the side, that you may know
+where to find it. Cover the pan, and set it by the fire-side or in some
+other warm place. When the milk becomes a firm mass of curd, and the
+whey looks clear and greenish, remove the rennet as gently as possible,
+pulling it out by the string; and set the pan in ice, or in a very cold
+place. Send to table with it a small pitcher of white wine, sugar and
+nutmeg mixed together; or a bowl of sweetened cream, with nutmeg grated
+over it.
+
+You may keep rennet in white wine; cutting it in small pieces, and
+putting it into a glass jar with wine enough to cover it well. Either
+the wine or the rennet will be found good for turning milk; but do not
+put in both together, or the curd will become so hard and tough, as to
+be uneatable.
+
+Rennets properly prepared and dried, are sold constantly in the
+Philadelphia markets. The cost is trifling; and it is well to have one
+always in the house, in case of being wanted to make whey for sick
+persons. They will keep a year or more.
+
+LEMON ICE CREAM.
+
+Have ready two quarts of very rich thick cream, and take out a pint.
+Stir gradually into the pint, a pound of the best loaf-sugar powdered
+fine; and the grated rind and the juice of four ripe lemons of the
+largest size, or of five or six smaller ones. If you cannot procure the
+fruit, you may flavour the cream with essence or oil of lemon; a
+tea-spoonful or more, according to its strength. The strongest and best
+essence of lemon is the white or whitish; when tinged with green, it is
+comparatively weak, having been diluted with water; if quite green, a
+large tea-spoonful will not communicate as much flavour as five or six
+drops of the white. After you have mixed the pint of cream with the
+sugar and lemon, beat it gradually and hard into the remaining cream,
+that is, the three pints. Cover it, and let it stand to infuse from
+half an hour to an hour. Then taste it, and if you think it necessary,
+stir in a little more lemon juice or a little more sugar. Strain it
+into the freezer through a fine strainer, (a tin one with small close
+holes is best,) to get rid of the grated lemon-peel, which if left in
+would prevent the cream from being smooth. Cover the freezer, and stand
+it in the ice cream tub, which should be filled with a mixture, in
+equal quantities, of coarse salt, and ice broken up as small as
+possible, that it may lie close and compact round the freezer, and thus
+add to its coldness. Snow, when it can be procured, is still better
+than ice to mix with the salt. It should be packed closely into the
+tub, and pressed down hard. Keep turning the freezer about by the
+handle till the cream is frozen, which it will generally be in two
+hours. Occasionally open the lid and scrape down the cream from the
+sides with a long-handled tin spoon. Take care that no salt gets in, or
+the cream will be spoiled. When it is entirely frozen, take it out of
+the freezer and put it into your mould; set it again in the tub, (which
+must be filled with fresh ice and salt,) and leave it undisturbed till
+you want it for immediate use. This second freezing, however, should
+not continue longer than two hours, or the cream will become
+inconveniently and unpleasantly hard, and have much of the flavour
+frozen out of it. Place the mould in the ice tub, with the head
+downwards, and cover the tub with pieces of old carpet while the second
+freezing is going on. When it has arrived at the proper consistence,
+and it is time to serve it up, dip a cloth in hot water, and wrap it
+round the mould for a few moments, to loosen the cream and make it come
+out easily; setting the mould on a glass or china dish. If a pyramid or
+obelisk mould, lift it carefully off the top. If the mould or form
+represents doves, dolphins, lap-dogs, fruit baskets, &c. it will open
+down the middle, and must be taken off in that manner. Serve it up
+immediately lest it begin to melt. Send round sponge-cake with it, and
+wine or cordials immediately after.
+
+If you have no moulds, but intend serving it up in a large bowl or in
+glasses, it must still be frozen twice over; otherwise it can have no
+smoothness, delicacy, or consistence, but will be rough and coarse, and
+feel in the mouth like broken icicles. The second freezing (if you have
+no mould) must be done in the freezer, which should be washed out, and
+set again in the tub with fresh ice and salt. Cover it closely, and let
+the cream stand in it untouched, but not less than two hours. When you
+put it into glasses, heap it high on the top.
+
+Begin to make ice cream about five or six hours before it is wanted for
+use. If you commence it too early, it may probably be injured by having
+to remain too long in the second freezing, as it must not be turned out
+till a few moments before it is served up. In damp weather it requires
+a longer time to freeze.
+
+If cream is scarce, mix with it an equal quantity of rich milk, and
+then add, for each quart, two table-spoonfuls of powdered arrow-root
+rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Orange ice cream is made in the
+same manner as lemon.
+
+STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.
+
+Take two quarts of ripe strawberries; hull them, and put them into a
+deep dish, strewing among them half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
+Cover them, and let them stand an hour or two. Then mash them through a
+sieve till you have pressed out all the juice, and stir into it half a
+pound more of powdered sugar, or enough to make it very sweet, and like
+a thick syrup. Then mix it by degrees with two quarts of rich cream,
+beating it in very hard. Put it into a freezer, and proceed as in the
+foregoing receipt. In two hours, remove it to a mould, or take it out
+and return it again to the freezer with fresh salt and ice, that it may
+be frozen a second time. In two hours more, it should be ready to turn
+out.
+
+RASPBERRY ICE CREAM.
+
+Is made according to the preceding receipt.
+
+PINE-APPLE ICE CREAM.
+
+To each quart of cream allow a large ripe pine-apple, and a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar. Pare the pine-apple, slice it very thin, and mince
+it small. Lay it in a deep dish and strew the sugar among it. Cover the
+dish, and let the pine-apple lie in the sugar for two or three hours.
+Then strain it through a sieve, mashing and pressing out all the juice.
+Stir the juice gradually into the cream, beating it hard. Put it into
+the freezer, and let it be twice frozen before it is served up.
+
+VANILLA ICE CREAM.
+
+Split up half a vanilla bean, and boil it slowly in half a pint of milk
+till all the flavour is drawn out, which you may know by tasting it.
+Then mix into the milk half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir it
+very hard into a quart of rich cream. Put it into the freezer, and
+proceed as directed in the receipt for Lemon Ice Cream; freezing it
+twice.
+
+ALMOND ICE CREAM.
+
+Take six ounces of bitter almonds, (sweet ones will not do,) blanch
+them, and pound them in a mortar, adding by degrees a little rose
+water. Then boil them gently in a pint of cream till you find that it
+is highly flavoured with them. Then pour the cream into a bowl, stir in
+a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, cover it, and set it away to cool
+gradually; when it is cold, strain it and then stir it gradually and
+hard into three pints of cream. Put it into the freezer, and proceed as
+directed in the first ice cream receipt. Freeze it twice. It will be
+found very fine.
+
+Send round always with ice cream, sponge cake or Savoy biscuits.
+Afterwards wine, and cordials, or liqueurs as they are now generally
+called.
+
+ICE ORANGEADE.
+
+Take a pint and a half of orange juice, and mix it with half a pint of
+clear or filtered water. Stir in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
+Pare very thin the yellow rind of six deep-coloured oranges, cut in
+pieces, and lay it at the bottom of a bowl or tureen. Pour the orange
+juice and sugar upon it; cover it, and let it infuse an hour. Then
+strain the liquid into a freezer, and proceed as for ice cream. When it
+is frozen, put it into a mould, (it will look best in the form of a
+pine-apple,) and freeze it a second time. Serve it in glass cups, with
+any sort of very nice sweet cakes.
+
+ICE LEMONADE.
+
+May be made in the above manner, but with a larger proportion of sugar.
+
+The juice of pine-apples, strawberries, raspberries, currants and
+cherries, may be prepared and frozen according to the above receipts.
+They will freeze in a shorter time than if mixed with cream, but are
+very inferior in richness.
+
+BLANC-MANGE.
+
+Put into a bowl an ounce of isinglass; (in warm weather you must take
+an ounce and a quarter;) pour on as much rose water as will cover the
+isinglass, and set it on hot ashes to dissolve. [Footnote: You may make
+the stock for blanc-mange without isinglass, by boiling four calves’
+feet in two quarts of water till reduced one half, and till the meat is
+entirely to rags. Strain it, and set it away till next day. Then clear
+it from the fat and sediment; cut it into pieces and boil it with the
+cream and the other ingredients. When you take it from the fire, and
+strain it into the pitcher, keep stirring it till it gets cold.] Blanch
+a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, (half sweet and half bitter,)
+and beat them to a paste in a mortar, (one at a time,) moistening them
+all the while with a little rose water. Stir the almonds by degrees
+into a quart of cream, alternately with half a pound of powdered white
+sugar; add a large tea-spoonful of beaten mace. Put in the melted
+isinglass, and stir the whole very hard. Then put it into a porcelain
+skillet, and let it boil fast for a quarter of an hour. Then strain it
+into a pitcher, and pour it into your moulds, which must first be
+wetted with cold water. Let it stand in a cool place undisturbed, till
+it has entirely congealed, which will be in about five hours. Then wrap
+a cloth dipped in hot water round the moulds, loosen the blanc-mange
+round the edges with a knife, and turn it out into glass dishes. It is
+best to make it the day before it is wanted.
+
+Instead of using a figure-mould, you may set it to congeal in tea-cups
+or wine glasses.
+
+Blanc-mange may be coloured green by mixing with the cream a little
+juice of spinage; cochineal which has been infused in a little brandy
+for half an hour, will colour it red; and saffron will give it a bright
+yellow tinge.
+
+CARRAGEEN BLANC-MANGE.
+
+This is made of a sea-weed resembling moss, that is found in large
+quantities on some parts of our coast, and is to be purchased in the
+cities at most of the druggists. Carrageen costs but little, and is
+considered extremely salutary for persons of delicate constitutions.
+Its glutinous nature when boiled, renders it very suitable for
+blanc-mange.
+
+From a quart of rich unskimmed milk take half a pint. Add to the half
+pint two ounces of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded; half a nutmeg;
+and a large stick of cinnamon, broken up; also eight or nine blades of
+mace. Set it in a closed pan over hot coals, and boil it half an hour.
+In the mean time, wash through two or three _cold_ waters half a
+handful of carrageen, (if you put in too much it will communicate an
+unpleasant taste to the blanc-mange,) and add it to the pint and a half
+of cold milk. Then when it is sufficiently flavoured, stir in the
+boiled milk, adding gradually half a pound of powdered sugar, and mix
+the whole very well. Set it over the fire, and keep it boiling hard
+five minutes from the time it has come to a boil. Then strain it into a
+pitcher; wet your moulds or cups with cold water, put the blanc-mange
+into them, and leave it undisturbed till it congeals.
+
+After washing the sea-weed, you must drain it well, and shake the water
+from the sprigs. You may flavour the mixture (_after_ it is boiled and
+strained) with rose-water or peach-water, stirred in at the last.
+
+ARROW ROOT BLANC-MANGE.
+
+Take a tea-cup full of arrow root, put it into a large bowl, and
+dissolve it in a little cold water. When it is melted, pour off the
+water, and let the arrow root remain undisturbed. Boil in half a pint
+of unskimmed milk, (made very sweet with white sugar,) a beaten nutmeg,
+and eight or nine blades of mace, mixed with the juice and grated peel
+of a lemon. When it has boiled long enough to be highly flavoured,
+strain it into a pint and a half of very rich milk or cream, and add a
+quarter of a pound of sugar. Boil the whole for ten minutes; then
+strain it, boiling hot, over the arrow roof. Stir it well and
+frequently till cold; then put it into moulds and let it set to
+congeal.
+
+JAUNE-MANGE.
+
+Put two ounces of isinglass into a pint of water, and boil it till it
+has dissolved. Then strain it into a porcelain skillet, and add to it
+half a pint of white wine; the grated peel and juice of two large
+deep-coloured oranges; half a pound of loaf-sugar; and the yolks only
+of eight eggs that have been well beaten. Mix the whole thoroughly;
+place it on hot coals and simmer it, stirring it all the time till it
+boils hard. Then take it off directly, strain it, and put it into
+moulds to congeal.
+
+CALVES’ FOOT JELLY.
+
+The best calves’ feet for jelly are those that have had the hair
+removed by scalding, but are not skinned; the skin containing a great
+deal of glutinous matter. In Philadelphia, unskinned calves’ feet are
+generally to be met with in the lower or Jersey market.
+
+Boil a set of feet in four quarts of cold water; (if the feet have been
+skinned allow but three quarts;) they should boil slowly till the
+liquid is reduced to two quarts or one half the original quantity, and
+the meat has dropped in rags from the bone. Then strain the liquid;
+measure and set it away in a large earthen pan to get cold; and let it
+rest till next morning. Then, if you do not find it a firm cake of
+jelly, boil it over again with an ounce of isinglass, and again set it
+away till cold and congealed. Remove the sediment from the bottom of
+the cake of jelly, and carefully scrape off all the fat. The smallest
+bit of fat will eventually render it dull and cloudy. Press some clean
+blotting paper all over it to absorb what little grease may yet remain.
+Then cut the cake of jelly into pieces, and put it into a porcelain
+kettle to melt over the fire. To each quart allow a pound of broken up
+loaf-sugar, a pint of Madeira wine, and a large glass of brandy; three
+large sticks of the best Ceylon cinnamon broken up, (if common
+cinnamon, use four sticks,) the grated peel and juice of four large
+lemons; and lastly, the whites of four eggs strained, but not beaten.
+In breaking the eggs, take care to separate them so nicely that none of
+the yellow gets into the white; as the smallest portion of yolk of egg
+will prevent the jelly from being perfectly clear. Mix all the
+ingredients well together, and put them to the jelly in the kettle. Set
+it on the fire, and boil it hard for twenty minutes, but do not stir
+it. Then throw in a tea-cup of cold water, and boil it five minutes
+longer; then take the kettle off the fire, and set it aside, keeping it
+closely covered for half an hour; this will improve its clearness. Take
+a large white flannel jelly-bag; suspend it by the strings to a wooden
+frame made for such purposes, or to the legs of a table. Pour in the
+mixture boiling hot, and when it is all in, close up the mouth of the
+bag that none of the flavour may evaporate. Hang it over a deep white
+dish or bowl, and let it drip slowly; but on no account squeeze the
+bag, as that will certainly make the jelly dull and cloudy. If it is
+not clear the first time, empty the bag, wash it, put in the jelly that
+has dripped into the dish, and pass it through again. Repeat this till
+it is clear. You may put it into moulds to congeal, setting them in a
+cold place. When it is quite firm, wrap a cloth that has been dipped in
+hot water, round the moulds to make the jelly turn out easily. But it
+will look much better, and the taste will be more lively, if you break
+it up after it has congealed, and put it into a glass bowl, or heap it
+in jelly glasses Unless it is broken, its sparkling clearness shows to
+little advantage.
+
+After the clear jelly has done dripping, you may return the ingredients
+to the kettle, and warm them over again for about five minutes. Then
+put them into the bag (which you may now squeeze hard) till all the
+liquid is pressed out of it into a second dish or bowl. This last jelly
+cannot, of course, be clear, but it will taste very well, and may be
+eaten in the family.
+
+A pound of the best raisins picked and washed, and boiled with the
+other ingredients, is thought by many persons greatly to improve the
+richness and flavour or calves’ feet jelly. They must be put in whole,
+and can be afterwards used for a pudding.
+
+Similar jelly may be made of pigs’ or sheep’s feet; but it is not so
+nice and delicate as that of calves.
+
+By boiling two sets, or eight calves’ feet in five quarts of Water, you
+may be sure of having the jelly very firm. In damp weather it is
+sometimes very difficult to get it to congeal if you use but one set of
+feet; there is the same risk if the weather is hot. In winter it maybe
+made several days before it is to be eaten. In summer it will keep in
+ice for two days; perhaps longer.
+
+TO PRESERVE CREAM.
+
+Take four quarts of new cream; it must he of the richest quality, and
+have no milk mixed with it. Put it into a preserving kettle, and simmer
+it gently over the fire; carefully taking off whatever scum may rise to
+the top, till nothing more appears. Then stir, gradually, into it four
+pounds of double-refined loaf-sugar that has been finely powdered and
+sifted. Let the cream and sugar boil briskly together half an hour;
+skimming it, if necessary, and afterwards stirring it as long as it
+continues on the fire. Put it into small bottles; and when it is cold,
+cork it, and secure the corks with melted rosin. This cream, if
+properly prepared, will keep perfectly good during a long sea voyage.
+
+ITALIAN CREAM.
+
+Put two pints of cream into two bowls. With one bowl mix six ounces of
+powdered loaf-sugar, the juice of two large lemons, and two glasses of
+white wine. Then add the other pint of cream, and stir the whole very
+hard. Boil two ounces, of isinglass with, four small tea-cups full of
+water, till it is reduced to one half. Then stir the isinglass
+lukewarm, into the other ingredients, and put them into a glass dish to
+congeal.
+
+CHOCOLATE CREAM.
+
+Melt six ounces of scraped chocolate and four ounces of white sugar in
+half a pint of boiling; water. Stir in an ounce of dissolved isinglass.
+When the whole has boiled, pour it into a mould.
+
+COLOURING FOR CONFECTIONARY.
+
+_RED._
+
+Take twenty grains of cochineal, and fifteen grains of cream of tartar
+finely powdered; add to them a piece of alum the size of a cherry
+stone, and boil them with a jill of soft water, in an earthen vessel,
+slowly, for half an hour. Then strain it through muslin, and keep it
+tightly-corked in a phial.
+
+_COCHINEAL FOR PRESENT USE._
+
+Take two cents’ worth of cochineal. Lay it on a flat plate, and bruise
+it with the blade of a knife. Put it into half a tea-cup of white
+brandy. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then filter it through
+fine muslin.
+
+_YELLOW COLOURING._
+
+Take a little saffron, put it into an earthen vessel with a very small
+quantity of cold soft water, and let it steep till the colour of the
+infusion is a bright yellow. Then strain it. The yellow seeds of lilies
+will answer nearly the saffron’s purpose.
+
+_GREEN._
+
+Take fresh spinach or beet leaves, and pound them in a marble mortar.
+If you want it for immediate use, take off the green froth as it rises,
+and mix it with the article you intend to colour. If you wish to keep
+it a few days, take the juice when you have pressed out a tea-cup full,
+and adding to it a piece of alum the size of a pea, give it a boil in a
+sauce-pan.
+
+_WHITE_
+
+Blanch some almonds, soak them in cold water, and then pound them to a
+smooth paste in a marble mortar; adding at intervals a little rose
+water. Thick cream will communicate a white colour.
+
+These preparations may be used for jellies, ice creams, blanc-mange,
+syllabubs, icing for cakes; and for various articles of confectionary.
+
+
+
+
+CAKES, ETC.
+
+
+GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
+
+Unless you are provided with proper and convenient utensils and
+materials, the difficulty of preparing cakes will be great, and in most
+instances a failure; involving disappointment, waste of time, and
+useless expense. Accuracy in proportioning the ingredients is
+indispensable; and therefore scales and weights, and a set of tin
+measures (at least from a quart down to a jill) are of the utmost
+importance. A large sieve for flour is also necessary; and smaller ones
+for sugar and spice. There should be a marble mortar, or one of lignum
+vitae, (the hardest of all wood;) those of iron (however well, tinned)
+are apt to discolour the articles pounded in them. Spice may be ground
+in a mill kept, exclusively for that purpose. Every kitchen should be
+provided with spice-boxes. You should have a large grater for lemon,
+cocoa-nut, &c., and a small one for nutmeg. Butter and sugar cannot be
+stirred together conveniently without a spaddle or spattle, which is a
+round stick flattened at one end; and a deep earthen pan with sides
+nearly straight. For beating eggs, you should have hickory rods or a
+wire whip, and broad shallow earthen pans. Neither the eggs, nor the
+butter and sugar should be beaten, in tin, as the coldness of the metal
+will prevent them from becoming light.
+
+For baking large cakes, the pans (whether of block tin or earthen)
+should have straight sides; if the aides slope inward, there will be
+much difficulty in icing the cake. Pans with a hollow tube going up
+from the centre, are supposed to diffuse the heat more equally through
+the middle of the cake. Buns and some other cakes should be baked in
+square shallow pans of block tin or iron. Little tins for queen cakes,
+&c. are most convenient when of a round or oval shape. All baking pans,
+whether large or small, should be well greased with butter or lard
+before the mixture is put into them, and should be filled but little
+more than half. You should have at least two dozen little tins, that a
+second supply may be ready for the oven, the moment the first is taken
+out. You will also want tin cutters for cakes that are rolled out in
+dough.
+
+All the utensils should be cleaned and put away as soon as they are
+done with. They should be all kept together, and, if possible, not used
+for any other purposes. [Footnote: All the utensils necessary for cake
+and pastry-making, (and for the other branches of cooking,) may be
+purchased in Philadelphia; at Gideon Cox’s household store in Market
+street, No. 335, two doors below Ninth. Every thing of the sort will be
+found there in great variety, of good quality, and at reasonable
+prices.]
+
+As it is always desirable that, cake-making should be commenced at an
+early hour, it is well on the day previous to ascertain if all the
+materials are in the house; that there may be no unnecessary delay from
+sending or waiting for them in the morning. Wastefulness is to be
+avoided in every thing; but it is utterly impossible that cakes can be
+good (or indeed any thing else) without a liberal allowance of good
+materials. Cakes are frequently rendered hard, heavy, and uneatable by
+a misplaced economy in eggs and butter; or tasteless and insipid for
+want of their due seasoning of spice, lemon, &c.
+
+Use no flour but the best superfine; if the flour is of inferior.
+quality, the cakes will he heavy, ill-coloured, and unfit to eat. Even
+the best flour should always be sifted. No butter that is not fresh and
+good; should ever be put into cakes; for it will give them a
+disagreeable taste which can never be disguised by the other
+ingredients. Even when of excellent quality, the butter will be
+improved by washing it in cold, water, and squeezing and pressing it.
+Except for gingerbread, use only white sugar, (for the finest cakes the
+best loaf,) and have it pulverized by pounding it in a mortar, or
+crushing it on the paste-board with the rolling-pin. It should then be
+sifted. In mixing butter and sugar, sift the sugar into a deep pan, cut
+up the butter in it, set it in a warm place to soften, and then stir it
+very hard with the spaddle, till it becomes quite light, and of the
+consistence of cream. In preparing eggs, break them one at a time, into
+a saucer, that, in case there should be a bad one among them, it may
+not spoil the others. Put them into a broad shallow pan, and beat them
+with rods or with a wire whisk, not merely till they froth, but long
+afterwards, till the froth subsides, and they become thick and smooth
+like boiled custard. White of egg by itself may be beaten with small
+rods, or with a three-pronged fork, or a broad knife. It is a very easy
+process, and should be continued till the liquid is all converted into
+a stiff froth so firm that it will not drop from the rods when held up.
+In damp weather it is sometimes difficult to get the froth stiff.
+
+The first thing to be done in making cake, is to weigh or measure all
+the ingredients. Next sift the flour, powder the sugar, pound or grind
+the spice, and prepare the fruit; afterwards mix and stir the butter
+and sugar, and lastly beat the eggs; as, if allowed to stand any time,
+they will fall and become heavy. When all the ingredients are mixed
+together, they should be stirred very hard at the last; and (unless
+there is yeast in the cake) the sooner it is put into the oven the
+better. While baking, no air should be admitted to it, except for a
+moment, now and then, when it is necessary to examine if it is baking
+properly, For baking; cakes, the best guide is practice and experience;
+so much depending on the state of the fire, that it is impossible to
+lay down any infallible rules.
+
+If you bake in a Dutch oven, let the lid be first heated by standing it
+up before the fire; and cover the inside of the bottom with sand or
+ashes, to temper the heat. For the same purpose, when you bake in a
+stove, place bricks under the pans. Sheets of iron without sides will
+be found very useful for baking small flat cakes. For cakes of this
+description, the fire should be brisk; if baked slowly, they will
+spread, lose their shape, and run into each other. For all cakes, the
+heat should be regular and even; if one part of the oven is cooler than
+another, the cake will bake imperfectly, and have heavy streaks through
+it. Gingerbread (on account of the molasses) is more apt to scorch and
+burn than any other cake; therefore it should he baked with a moderate
+fire.
+
+It is safest, when practicable, to send all large cakes to a
+professional baker’s; provided they can be put immediately into the
+oven, as standing will spoil them. If you bake them at home, you will
+find that they are generally done when they cease to make a simmering
+noise; and when on probing them to the bottom with a twig from a broom,
+or with the blade of the knife, it comes out quite clean. The fire
+should then be withdrawn, and the cake allowed to get cold in the oven.
+Small cakes should be laid to cool on an inverted sieve. It may be
+recommended to novices in the art of baking, to do every thing in
+little tins or in very shallow pans; there being then less risk than
+with a large thick cake. In mixing batter that is to be baked in small
+cakes; use less proportion of flour.
+
+Small cakes should be kept closely covered in stone jars. For large
+ones, you should have broad stone pans with close lids, or else tin
+boxes. All cakes that are made with yeast should be eaten quite fresh;
+so also should sponge cake. Some sorts may be kept a week; black cake
+much longer.
+
+BLACK CAKE.
+
+Prepare two pounds of currants by picking them clean, washing and
+draining them, through a cullender, and then spreading them out on a
+large dish to dry before the fire or in the sun, placing the dish in a
+slanting position. Pick and stone two pounds of the best raisins, and
+cut them in half. Dredge the currants (when they are dry) and the
+raisins thickly with flour to prevent them from sinking in the cake.
+Grind or powder as much cinnamon as will make a large gravy-spoonful
+when done; also a table-spoonful of mace and four nutmegs; sift these
+spices, and mix them all together in a cup. Mix together two large
+glasses of white wine, one of brandy and one of rose water, and cut a
+pound of citron into large slips. Sift a pound of flour into one pan,
+and a pound of powdered loaf-sugar into another. Cut up among the sugar
+a pound of the best fresh butter, and stir them to a cream. Beat twelve
+eggs till perfectly thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the
+butter and sugar, alternately with the flour. Then add by degrees, the
+fruit, spice and liquor, and stir the whole very hard at the last. Then
+put the mixture into a well-buttered tin pan with straight or
+perpendicular sides. Put it immediately into a moderate oven, and bake
+it at least four hours. When done, let it remain in the oven to get
+cold; it will be the better for staying in all night. Ice it next
+morning; first dredging the outside all over with flour, and then
+wiping it with a towel. This will make the icing stick.
+
+ICING.
+
+A quarter of a pound of finely powdered loaf-sugar, of the whitest and
+best quality, is the usual allowance to one white of egg. For the cake
+in the preceding receipt, three quarters of a pound of sugar and the
+whites of three eggs will be about the proper quantity. Beat the white
+of egg by itself till it stands alone. Have ready the powdered sugar,
+and then beat it hard into the white of egg, till it becomes thick and
+smooth; flavouring it as you proceed with a few drops of oil of lemon,
+or a little extract of roses. Spread it evenly over the cake with a
+broad knife or a feather; if you find it too thin, beat in a little
+more powdered sugar. Cover with it thickly the top and sides of the
+cake, taking care not to have it rough and streaky. To ice well
+requires skill and practice. When the icing is about half dry, put on
+the ornaments. You may flower it with coloured sugar-sand or nonparels;
+but a newer and more elegant mode is to decorate it with, devices and
+borders in white sugar; they can be procured at the confectioners, and
+look extremely well on icing that has been tinted with pink by the
+addition of a little cochineal.
+
+You may colour icing of a pale or deep yellow, by rubbing the lumps of
+loaf-sugar (before they are powdered) upon the outside of a large lemon
+or orange. This will also flavour it finely.
+
+Almond icing, for a very fine cake, is made by mixing gradually with
+the white of egg and. sugar, some almonds, half bitter and half sweet,
+that have been pounded in a mortar with rose water to a smooth paste.
+The whole must be well incorporated, and spread over the cake near half
+an inch thick. It must be set in a cool oven to dry, and then taken out
+and covered with a smooth plain icing of sugar and white of egg.
+
+Whatever icing is left, may be used to make maccaroons or kisses.
+
+
+POUND CAKE.
+
+Prepare a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of
+powdered mace, and two nutmegs grated or powdered. Mix together in a
+tumbler, a glass of white—wine, a glass of brandy, and a glass of rose
+water. Sift a pound of the finest flour into a broad pan, and powder a
+pound of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a deep pan, and cut up in it a
+pound of fresh butter. Warm them by the fire till soft; and then stir
+them to a cream. When they are perfectly light, add gradually the spice
+and liquor, a little at a time. Beat ten eggs as light as possible, and
+stir them by degrees into the mixture, alternately with the flour. Then
+add twelve drops of oil of lemon; or more, if it is not strong. Stir
+the whole very hard; put it into a deep tin pan with straight or
+upright sides, and bake it in a moderate oven from two to three hours.
+If baked in a Dutch oven, take off the lid when you have ascertained
+that the cake is quite done, and let it remain in the oven to cool
+gradually. If any part is burnt, scrape it off as soon as cold.
+
+It may be iced either warm or cool; first dredging the cake with flour
+and then wiping it off. It will be best to put on two coats of icing;
+the second coat not till the first is entirely dry. Flavour the icing
+with essence of lemon, or with extract of roses.
+
+This cake will be very delicate if made with a pound of rice flour
+instead of wheat.
+
+INDIAN POUND CAKE.
+
+Sift a pint of fine yellow Indian meal, and half a pint of wheat flour,
+and mix them well together. Prepare a nutmeg beaten, and mixed with a
+table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir together till very light,
+half a pound of powdered white sugar; and half a pound of fresh butter;
+adding the spice, with a glass of white wine, and a glass of brandy.
+Having beaten eight eggs as light as possible, stir them into the
+butter and sugar, a little at a time in turn with the meal. Give the
+whole a hard stirring at the last; put it into a well-buttered tin pan,
+and bake it about an hour and a half.
+
+This cake (like every thing else in which Indian meal is an ingredient)
+should be eaten quite fresh; it is then very nice. When stale, (even a
+day old,) it becomes dry and rough as if made with saw-dust.
+
+QUEEN CAKE.
+
+Sift fourteen ounces of the finest flour, being two ounces less than a
+pound. Cakes baked in little tins, should have a smaller proportion of
+flour than those that are done in large loaves. Prepare a
+table-spoonful of beaten cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of mace, and two
+beaten nutmegs; and mix them all together when powdered. Mix in a
+tumbler, half a glass of white wine, half a glass of brandy, and half a
+glass of rose water. Powder a pound of loaf-sugar, and sift it into a
+deep pan; cut up in it a pound of fresh butter; warm them by the fire,
+and stir them to a cream. Add gradually the spice and the liquor. Beat
+ten eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture in turn with the
+flour. Stir in twelve drops of essence of lemon, and beat the whole
+very hard. Butter some little tins; half fill them with the mixture;
+set them into a brisk oven, and cake them about a quarter of an hour.
+When done, they will shrink from the sides of the tins. After you turn
+them out, spread them on an inverted sieve to cool. If you have
+occasion to fill your tins a second time, scrape and wipe them well
+before they are used again.
+
+Make an icing flavoured with oil of lemon, or with extract of roses;
+and spread two coats of it on the queen cakes. Set them to dry in a
+warm place, but not near enough the fire to discolour the icing and
+cause it to crack.
+
+Queen cakes are best the day they are baked.
+
+FRUIT QUEEN CAKES.
+
+Make them in the above manner, with the addition of a pound of
+currants, (picked, washed, dried, and floured,) and the juice and
+grated peel of two large lemons, stirred in gradually at the last.
+Instead of currants, you may put in sultana or seedless raisins, cut in
+half and floured.
+
+You may make a fruit pound cake in this manner.
+
+LADY CAKE.
+
+Take a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds, or peach-kernels.
+Put them into a bowl of boiling water, (renewing the water as it cools)
+and let them lie in it till the skin peels off easily; then throw them,
+as they, are blanched, into a bowl of cold water, which will much
+improve their whiteness. Pound them, one at a time, in a mortar;
+pouring in frequently a few drops of rose water to prevent them from
+oiling and being heavy. Cut up three quarters of a pound of fresh
+butter into a whole pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Having warmed it,
+stir it to a light cream, and then add very gradually the pounded
+almonds, beating them in very hard. Sift into a separate pan half a
+pound and two ounces of flour, and beat in another pan to a stiff
+froth, the, whites only of seventeen eggs. Stir the flour and the white
+of egg alternately into the pan of butter, sugar and almonds, a very
+little at a time of each. Having beaten the whole as hard as possible,
+put it into a buttered tin pan, (a square one is best,) and set it
+immediately into a moderate oven. Bake it about an hour, more or less,
+according to its thickness. When cool, ice it, flavouring the icing,
+with oil of lemon. It is best the day after it is baked, but it may be
+eaten fresh. When you put it away wrap it in a thick cloth.
+
+If you bake it in little tins, use two ounces less of flour.
+
+SPANISH BUNS.
+
+Cut up three quarters of a pound of butter into a jill and a half or
+three wine glasses of rich unskimmed milk, (cream will be still
+better,) and get the pan on a stove or near the fire, till the butter
+becomes soft enough to stir all through the milk with a knife; but do
+not let it get so hot as to boil of itself. Then set it away in a cold
+place. Sift into separate pans, a half pound and a quarter of a pound
+of the finest flour; and having beaten four eggs as light as possible,
+mix them with the milk and butter, and then pour the whole into the pan
+that contains the half pound of flour. Having previously prepared two
+grated nutmegs, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon and mace,
+stir them into the mixture; adding six drops of extract of roses, or a
+large table-spoonful of rose water. Add a wine glass and a half of the
+best fresh yeast from a brewery. If you cannot procure yeast of the
+very best quality, an attempt to make these buns will most probably
+prove a failure, as the variety of other ingredients will prevent them
+from rising unless the yeast is as strong as possible. Before you put
+it in, skim off the thin liquid or beer from the top, and then stir up
+the bottom. After you have put in the yeast, add the sugar; stirring it
+well in, a very little at a time. If too much sugar is put in at once,
+the buns will be heavy. Lastly, sprinkle in the quarter of a pound of
+flour that was sifted separately; and stir the whole very hard. Put the
+mixture into a square pan well buttered, and (having covered it with a
+cloth) place it in a corner of the hearth to rise, which will require,
+perhaps, about five hours; therefore these buns should always be made
+early in the day. Do not bake it till the batter has risen to twice its
+original quantity, and is covered on the top with bubbles; then set the
+pan into a moderate oven, and bake it about twenty minutes. Let it get
+cool in the pan; then, cut it into squares, and either ice them,
+(flavouring the icing with essence of lemon or extract of roses,) or
+sift grated loaf-sugar thickly over them. These buns (like all other
+cakes made with yeast) should be eaten the day they are baked; as when
+stale, they fall and become hard.
+
+In mixing them, you may stir in at the last half a pound of raisins,
+stoned, chopped and floured; or half a pound of currants. If you use
+fruit, put in half a wine glass more of the yeast.
+
+BATH BUNS.
+
+Boil a little saffron in sufficient water to cover it, till the liquid
+is of a bright yellow; then strain it, and set it to cool. Rub half a
+pound of fresh butter into a pound of sifted flour, and make it into a
+paste with four eggs that have been well beaten, and a large wine glass
+of the best and strongest yeast; adding the infusion of saffron to
+colour it yellow. Put the dough into a pan, cover it with a cloth, and
+set it before the fire to rise. When it is quite light, mix into it a
+quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted loaf-sugar; a grated nutmeg;
+and, if you choose, two or three spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Roll out
+the dough into a thick sheet, and divide it into round cakes with a
+cutter. Strew the top of each bun with carraway comfits, and bake them
+on flat tins buttered well. They should be eaten the day they are
+baked, as they are not good unless quite fresh.
+
+JELLY CAKE.
+
+Sift three quarters of a pound of flour. Stir to a cream a pound of
+butter and a pound of powdered white sugar, and mix in half a tea-cup
+of rose water, and a grated nutmeg, with a tea-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon. Beat ten eggs very light, and add them gradually to the
+mixture, alternately with the flour; stirring the whole very hard. Put
+your griddle into the oven of a stove; and when it is quite hot, grease
+it with fresh butter tied in a clean rag, and set on it a tin
+cake-ring, (about the size of a large dinner plate,) greased also. Dip
+out two large table-spoonfuls and a half of the cake batter; put it
+within the tin ring, and bake it about five minutes (or a little
+longer) without turning it. When it is done, take it carefully off;
+place it on a large dish to cool; wipe the griddle, grease it afresh,
+and put on another cake. Proceed thus till all the batter is baked.
+When the cakes are cool, spread every one thickly over with grape
+jelly, peach marmalade, or any other sweetmeat that is smooth and
+thick; currant jelly will be found too thin, and is liable to run off.
+Lay the cakes smoothly one on another, (each having a layer of jelly or
+marmalade between,) and either grate loaf-sugar over the top one, or
+ice it smoothly; marking the icing with cross lines of coloured
+sugar-sand, all the lines meeting at the centre so as to divide the
+cake, when cut, into triangular or wedge-shaped slices. If you ice it,
+add a few drops of essence of lemon to the icing.
+
+Jelly cake should be eaten fresh. It is best the day it is baked.
+
+You may bake small jelly cakes in muffin rings.
+
+SPONGE CAKE.
+
+Sift three quarters of a pound of flour, [Footnote: Sponge cake may be
+made with rice flour.] and powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Grate
+the yellow rind and squeeze into a saucer the juice of three lemons.
+Beat twelve eggs; and when they are as light as possible, beat into
+them gradually and very hard the sugar, adding the lemon, and beating
+the whole for a long time. Then by degrees, stir in the flour slowly
+and lightly; for if the flour is stirred hard and fast into sponge
+cake, it will make it porous and tough. Have ready buttered, a
+sufficient number of little square tins, (the thinner they are the
+better,) half fill them with the mixture; grate loaf-sugar over the top
+of each; put them immediately into a quick oven, and bake them about
+ten minutes; taking out one to try when you think they are done. Spread
+them on an inverted sieve to cool. When baked in small square cakes,
+they are generally called Naples biscuits.
+
+If you are willing to take the trouble, they will bake much nicer in
+little square paper cases, which you must make of a thick letter paper,
+turning up the sides all round, and pasting together or sewing up the
+corners.
+
+If you bake the mixture in one large cake, (which is not advisable
+unless you have had much practice in baking,) put it into a buttered
+tin pan or mould, and set it directly into a hot Dutch oven, as it will
+fall and become heavy if allowed to stand. Keep plenty of live coals on
+the top, and under the bottom till the cake has risen very high, and is
+of a fine colour; then diminish the fire, and keep it moderate till the
+cake is done. It will take about an hour. When cool, ice it; adding a
+little essence of lemon or extract of roses to the icing. Sponge cake
+is best the day it is baked.
+
+Diet Bread is another name for Sponge Cake.
+
+ALMOND CAKE.
+
+Blanch, and pound in a mortar, four ounces of shelled sweet almonds and
+two ounces of shelled bitter ones; adding, as you proceed, sufficient
+rose-water to make them light and white. Sift half a pound of flour,
+and powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat thirteen eggs; and when they are
+as light as possible, stir into them alternately the almonds, sugar,
+and flour; adding a grated nutmeg. Butter a large square pan; put in
+the mixture, and bake it in a brisk oven about half an hour, less or
+more, according to its thickness. When cool, ice it. It is best when
+eaten fresh.
+
+COCOA-NUT CAKE.
+
+Cut up and wash a cocoa-nut, and grate as much of it as will weigh a
+pound. Powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat fifteen eggs very light; and
+then beat into them, gradually, the sugar. Then add by degrees the
+cocoa-nut; and lastly, a handful of sifted flour. Stir the whole very
+hard, and bake it either in a large tin pan, or in little tins. The
+oven should be rather quick.
+
+WASHINGTON CAKE.
+
+Stir together a pound of butter and a pound of sugar; and sift into
+another pan a pound of flour. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them
+into the butter and sugar, alternately with the flour and a pint of
+rich milk or cream; if the milk is sour it will be no disadvantage. Add
+a glass of wine, a glass of brandy, a powdered nutmeg, and a
+table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Lastly, stir in a small
+tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or salaeratus, that has been melted in a
+little vinegar; take care not to put in too much pearl-ash, lest it
+give the cake an unpleasant taste. Stir the whole very hard; put it
+into a buttered tin pan, (or into little tins,) and bake it in a brisk
+oven. Wrapped in a thick cloth, this cake will keep soft for a week.
+
+CIDER CAKE.
+
+Pick, wash, and dry a pound of currants, and sprinkle them well with
+flour; and prepare two nutmegs, and a large table-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon. Sift half a pound and two ounces of flour. Stir together till
+very light. six ounces of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdered
+white sugar; and add gradually the spice, with two wine glasses of
+brandy, (or one of brandy and one of white wine.) Beat four eggs very
+light, and stir them into the mixture alternately with the flour. Add
+by degrees half a pint of brisk cider; and then stir in the currants, a
+few at a time. Lastly, a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or sal-aratus
+dissolved in a little warm water. Having stirred the whole very hard,
+put it into a buttered tin pan, and let it stand before the fire half
+an hour previous to baking. Bake it in a brisk oven an hour or more
+according to its thickness. Or you may bake it as little cakes, putting
+it into small tins; in which case use but half a pound of flour in
+raising the batter.
+
+ELECTION CAKE.
+
+Make a sponge (as it is called) in the following manner:—Sift into a
+pan two pounds and a half of flour; and into a deep plate another
+pound. Take a second pan, and stir a large table-spoonful of the best
+West India molasses into five jills or two tumblers and a half of
+strong fresh yeast; adding a Jill of water, warm, but not hot. Then
+stir gradually into the yeast, &c. the pound of flour that you have
+sifted separately. Cover it, and let it set by the fire three hours to
+rise. While it is rising, prepare the other ingredients, by stirring in
+a deep pan two pounds of fresh butter and two pounds of powdered sugar,
+till they are quite light and creamy; adding to them a table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon; a tea-spoonful of powdered mace; and two powdered
+nutmegs. Stir in also half a pint of rich milk. Beat fourteen eggs till
+very smooth and thick, and stir them gradually into the mixture,
+alternately with the two pounds and a half of flour which you sifted
+first. When the sponge is quite light, mix the whole together, and bake
+it in buttered tin pans in a moderate oven. It should be eaten fresh,
+as no sweet cake made with yeast is so good after the first day. If it
+is not probable that the whole will come into use on the day it is
+baked, mix but half the above quantity.
+
+MORAVIAN SUGAR CAKE.
+
+Cut up a quarter of a pound of butter into a pint of rich milk, and
+warm it till the butter becomes soft; then stir it about in the milk so
+as to mix them well. Sift three quarters of a pound of flour (or a pint
+and a half) into a deep pan, and making a hole in the middle of it,
+stir in a large table-spoonful of the best brewer’s yeast in which a
+salt-spoonful of salt has been dissolved; and then thin it with the
+milk and butter. Cover it, and set it near the fire to rise. If the
+yeast is sufficiently strong, it will most probably be light in two
+hours. When it is quite light, mix with the dough a well-beaten egg and
+three quarters of a pound more of sifted flour; adding a table-spoonful
+of powdered cinnamon, and stirring it very hard. Butter a deep square
+baking pan, and put the mixture into it. Set it to rise again, as
+before. Mix together five ounces or a large coffee-cup of fine brown
+sugar; two ounces of butter; and two table-spoonfuls of powdered
+cinnamon. When the dough is thoroughly light, make deep incisions all
+over it, at equal distances, and fill them with the mixture of butter,
+sugar and cinnamon; pressing it hard down into the bottom of the holes,
+and closing the dough a little at the top to prevent the seasoning from
+running out. Strew some sugar over the top of the cake; set it
+immediately into the oven, and bake it from twenty minutes to half an
+hour, or more, in a brisk oven, in proportion to its thickness. When
+cool, cut it into squares. This is a very good plain cake; but do not
+attempt it unless you have excellent yeast.
+
+HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.
+
+Spread a quart of ripe huckleberries on a large dish, and dredge them
+thickly with flour. Mix together half a pint of milk; half a pint of
+molasses; half a pint of powdered sugar; and half a pound of butter.
+Warm them by the fire till the butter is quite soft; then stir them all
+together, and set them away till cold. Prepare a large table-spoonful
+of powdered cloves and cinnamon mixed. Beat five eggs very light, and
+stir them gradually into the other ingredients; adding, by degrees,
+sufficient gifted flour to make a thick batter. Then stir in a small
+tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or dissolved sal-aratus. Lastly, add by
+degrees the huckleberries. Put the mixture into a buttered pan, or into
+little tins and bake it in a moderate oven. It is best the second day.
+
+BREAD CAKE.
+
+When you are making wheat bread, and the dough is quite light and ready
+to bake, take out as much of it as would make a twelve cent loaf, and
+mix with it a tea cup full of powdered sugar, and a tea-cup full of
+butter that has been softened and stirred about in a tea-cup of warm
+milk. Add also a beaten egg. Knead it very well, put it into a square
+pan, dredged with flour, cover it, and set it near the fire for half an
+hour. Then bake it in a moderate oven, and wrap it in a thick cloth as
+soon as it is done. It is best when fresh.
+
+FEDERAL CAKES.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and cut up in it a pound of
+fresh butter; rub the butter into the flour with your hands, adding by
+degrees, half a pound of powdered white sugar; a tea-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon; a beaten nutmeg; a glass of wine or brandy, and two
+glasses of rose water. Beat four eggs very light; and add them to the
+mixture with a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash melted in a little lukewarm
+water. Mix all well together; add, if necessary, sufficient cold water
+to make it into a dough just stiff enough to roll out; knead it
+slightly, and then roll it out into a sheet about half an inch thick.
+Cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, or with the edge of a
+tumbler; dipping the cutter frequently into flour, to prevent its
+sticking. Lay the cakes in shallow pans buttered, or on flat sheets of
+tin, (taking care not to let them touch, lest they should run into each
+other,) and bake them of a light brown in a brisk oven. They are best
+the second day.
+
+SAVOY BISCUITS.
+
+Take four eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat the whites
+by themselves, to a stiff froth; then add gradually the yolks, and beat
+them both together for a long time. Next add by degrees half a pound of
+the finest loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted, beating it in very hard;
+and eight drops of strong essence of lemon. Lastly, stir in a quarter
+of a pound of sifted flour, a little at a time. Stir the whole very
+hard, and then with a spoon lay it on sheets of white paper, forming it
+into thin cakes of an oblong or oval shape. Take care not to place them
+too close to each other, lest they run. Grate loaf-sugar over the top
+of each, to assist in keeping them in shape. Have the oven quite ready
+to put them in immediately. It should be rather brisk. They will bake
+in a few minutes, and should be but slightly coloured.
+
+ALMOND MACCAROONS.
+
+Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of
+shelled bitter almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, mix them
+together, and pound them, one or two at a time, in a mortar to a very
+smooth paste; adding frequently a little rose water to prevent them
+from oiling and becoming heavy. Prepare a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
+Beat the whites of seven eggs, to a stiff froth, and then beat into it
+gradually the powdered sugar, adding a table-spoonful of mixed spice,
+(nutmeg, mace, and. cinnamon.) Then mix in the pounded almonds, (which
+it is best to prepare the day before,) and stir the whole very hard.
+Form the mixture with a spoon into little round or oval cakes, upon
+sheets of buttered white paper, and grate white sugar over each. Lay
+the paper in square shallow pans, or on iron sheets, and bake the
+maccaroons a few minutes in a brisk oven, till of a pale brown. When
+cold, take them off the papers.
+
+It will be well to try two or three first, and if you find them likely
+to lose their shape and run info each other, you may omit the papers
+and make the mixture up into little balls with your hands well floured;
+baking them in shallow tin pans slightly buttered.
+
+You may make maccaroons with icing that is left from a cake.
+
+COCOA-NUT MACCAROONS.
+
+Beat to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and then beat into it
+very hard a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Mix with it a pound of grated
+cocoa-nut, or sufficient to make a stiff paste. Then flour your hands,
+and make it up into little balls. Lay them on sheets of buttered white
+paper, and bake them in a brisk oven; first grating loaf-sugar over
+each. They will be done in a few minutes. Maccaroons may be made in a
+similar manner of pounded cream-nuts, ground-nuts, filberts, or English
+walnuts.
+
+WHITE COCOA-NUT CAKES.
+
+Break up a cocoa-nut; peel and wash the pieces in cold water, and grate
+them. Mix in the milk of the nut and some powdered loaf-sugar and then
+form the grated cocoa-nut into little balls upon sheets of white paper.
+Make them all of a regular and handsome form, and touch the top of each
+with a spot of red sugar-sand. Do not bake them, but place them to dry
+for twenty-four hours, in a warm room where nothing is likely to
+disturb the them.
+
+COCOA-NUT JUMBLES.
+
+Grate a large cocoa-nut. Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of
+sifted flour, and wet it with, three beaten eggs, and a little rose
+water. Add by degrees the cocoa-nut, so as to form a stiff dough. Flour
+your hands and your paste-hoard, and dividing the dough into equal
+portions, make the jumbles with your hands into long rolls, and then
+curl them round and join the ends so as to form rings. Grate loaf-sugar
+over them, lay them in buttered pans, (not so near as to run into each
+other,) and bake them in a quick oven from five to ten minutes.
+
+COMMON JUMBLES.
+
+Sift a pound of flour into a large pan. Cut up a pound of butter into a
+pound of powdered white sugar, and stir them to a cream. Beat six eggs
+till very light, and then pour them all at once into the pan of flour;
+next add the butter and sugar, with a large table-spoonful of mixed
+mace and cinnamon, two grated nutmegs, and a tea-spoonful of essence of
+lemon or a wine glass of rose water. When all the ingredients are in,
+stir the mixture very hard with a broad knife. Having floured your
+hands and spread some flour on the paste-board, make the dough into
+long rolls, (all of equal size,) and form them into rings by joining
+the two ends very nicely. Lay them on buttered tins, and bake them in a
+quick oven from five to ten minutes. Grate sugar over them when cool.
+
+APEES.
+
+Rub a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, and mix in
+a pound of powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon, and four large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds.
+Add a wine glass of rose water, and mix the whole with sufficient cold
+water to make it a stiff dough. Roll it out into a large sheet about a
+third of an inch in thickness, and cut it into round cakes with a tin
+cutter or with the edge of a tumbler. Lay them in buttered pans, and
+bake them in a quick oven, (rather hotter at the bottom than at the
+top,) till they are of a very pale brown.
+
+WHITE CUP CAKE.
+
+Measure one large coffee cup of cream or rich milk, (which, for this
+cake, is best when sour,) one cup of fresh butter; two cups of powdered
+white sugar; and four cups of sifted flour. Stir the butter and sugar
+together till quite light; then by degrees add the cream, alternately
+with half the flour. Beat five eggs as light as possible, and stir them
+into the mixture, alternately with the remainder of the flour. Add a
+grated nutmeg and a large tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, with eight
+drops of oil of lemon. Lastly, stir in a very small tea-spoonful of
+sal-aratus or pearl-ash, melted in a little vinegar or lukewarm water.
+Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into little tins; set them
+in a moderate oven, and bake them about twenty minutes.
+
+KISSES.
+
+Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Beat to a strong froth the
+whites of eight eggs, and when it is stiff enough to stand alone, beat
+into it the powdered sugar, (a tea spoonful at a time,) adding the
+juice of two lemons, or ten drops of essence of lemon. Having beaten
+the whole very hard, drop it in oval or egg-shaped heaps upon sheets of
+white paper, smoothing them with the spoon and making them of a
+handsome and regular form. Place them in a moderate oven, (if it is too
+cool they will not rise, but will flatten and run into each other,) and
+bake them till coloured of a very pale brown. Then take them off the
+papers very carefully, place two bottoms (or flat sides) together, so
+as to unite them in an oval ball, and lay them on their sides to cool.
+To manage them properly, requires so much practice and dexterity, that
+it is best, when practicable, to procure kisses from a confectioner’s
+shop.
+
+MARMALADE CAKE.
+
+Make a batter as for queen-cake, and bake it in small tin rings on a
+griddle. Beat white of egg, and powdered loaf-sugar according to the
+preceding receipt, flavouring it with lemon. When the batter is baked
+into cakes, and they are quite cool, spread over each a thick layer of
+marmalade, and then heap on with a spoon tire icing or white of egg and
+sugar. Pile it high, and set the cakes in a moderate oven till the
+icing is coloured of a very pale brown.
+
+Instead of small ones you may bake the whole in one large cake.
+
+
+SECRETS.
+
+Take glazed paper of different colours, and cut it into squares of
+equal size, fringing two sides of each. Have ready, burnt almonds,
+chocolate nuts, and bonbons or sugar-plums of various sorts; and put
+one in each paper with a folded slip containing two lines of verse; or
+what will be much more amusing, a conundrum with the answer. Twist the
+coloured paper so as entirely to conceal their contents, leaving the
+fringe at each end. This is the most easy, but there are various ways
+of cutting and ornamenting these envelopes.
+
+SCOTCH CAKE.
+
+Rub three quarters of a pound of butter into a pound of sifted flour;
+mix in a pound of powdered sugar, and a large table-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon. Mix it into a dough with three well beaten eggs.
+Roll it out into a sheet; cut it into round cakes, and bake them in a
+quick oven; they will require but a few minutes.
+
+SCOTCH QUEEN CAKE.
+
+Melt a pound of butter by putting it into a skillet on hot coals. Then
+set it away to cool. Sift a quarter of a peck of flour into a deep pan,
+and mix with it a pound of powdered sugar and a table-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon and mace. Make a hole in the middle, put in the
+melted butter, and mix it with a knife till you have formed of the
+whole a lump of dough. If it is too stiff, moisten it with a little
+rose water. Do not knead it; but roll it out into a large oval sheet,
+an inch thick. Cut it down the middle, and then across, so as to divide
+it into four cakes. Prick them with a fork, and crimp or scollop the
+edges neatly. Lay them in shallow pans; set them, in a quick oven and
+bake them of a light brown. This cake will keep a week or two.
+
+You may mix in with the dough half a pound of currants, picked, washed,
+and dried.
+
+HONEY CAKES.
+
+Take a quart of strained honey, half a pound of fresh butter, and a
+small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a wine glass of water. Add
+by degrees as much sifted flour as will make a stiff paste. Work the
+whole well together. Roll it out about half an inch thick. Cut it into
+cakes with the edge of a tumbler or with a tin-cake cutter. Lay them on
+buttered tins and bake them with rather a brisk fire, but see that they
+do not burn.
+
+WAFER CAKES.
+
+Mix together half a pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound
+of butter; and add to them six beaten eggs. Then beat the whole very
+light; stirring into it as much sifted flour as will make a stiff
+batter; a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of cinnamon; and eight
+drops of oil of lemon, or a table-spoonful of rose water. The batter
+must be very smooth when it is done, and without a single lump. Heat
+your wafer iron on both sides by turning it in the fire; but do not
+allow it to get too hot. Grease the inside with butter tied in a rag,
+(this must be repeated previous to the baking of every cake,) and put
+in the batter, allowing to each wafer two large table-spoonfuls, taking
+care not to stir up the batter. Close the iron, and when one side is
+baked, turn it on the other; open it occasionally to see if the wafer
+is doing well. They should be coloured of a light brown. Take them out
+carefully with a knife. Strew them with powdered sugar, and roll them
+up while warm, round a smooth stick, withdrawing it when they grow
+cold. They are best the day after they are baked.
+
+If you are preparing for company, fill up the hollow of the wafers with
+whipt cream, and stop up the two ends with preserved strawberries, or
+with any other small sweetmeat.
+
+WONDERS, OR CRULLERS.
+
+Rub half a pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour, mixing in
+three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Add a tea-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon, and a grated nutmeg, with a large table-spoonful of
+rose water. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture.
+Mix it with a knife into a soft paste. Then put it on the paste-board,
+and roll it out into a sheet an inch thick. If you find it too soft,
+knead in a little more flour, and roll it out over again. Cut it into
+long slips with a jagging iron, or with a sharp knife, and twist them
+into various fantastic shapes. Have ready on hot coals, a skillet of
+boiling lard; put in the crullers and fry them of a light brown,
+turning them occasionally by means of a knife and fork. Take them out
+one by one on a perforated skimmer, that the lard may drain off through
+the holes. Spread them out on a large dish, and when cold grate white
+sugar over them.
+
+They will keep a week or more.
+
+DOUGH NUTS.
+
+Take two deep dishes, and sift three quarters of a pound of flour into
+each. Make a hole in the centre of one of them, and pour in a wine
+glass of the best brewer’s yeast; mix the flour gradually into it,
+wetting it with lukewarm milk; cover it, and set it by the fire to rise
+for about two hours. This is setting a sponge. In the mean time, cut up
+five ounces of butter into the other dish of flour, and rub it fine
+with your hands; add half a pound of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of rose water, and
+a half pint of milk. Beat three eggs very light, and stir them hard
+into the mixture. Then when, the sponge is perfectly light, add it to
+the other ingredients, mixing them all thoroughly with a knife. Cover
+it, and set it again by the fire for another hour. When, it is quite
+light, flour your paste-board, turn out the lump of dough, and cut it
+into thick diamond shaped cakes with a jagging iron. If you find the
+dough so soft as to be unmanageable, mix in a little more flour; but
+not else. Have ready a skillet of boiling lard; put the dough-nuts into
+it, and fry them brown; and when cool grate loaf-sugar over them. They
+should be eaten quite fresh, as next day they will be tough and heavy;
+therefore it is best to make no more than you want for immediate use.
+The New York Oley Koeks are dough-nuts with currants and raisins in
+them.
+
+WAFFLES.
+
+Put two pints of rich milk into separate pans. Cut up and melt in one
+of them a quarter of a pound of butter, warming it slightly; then, when
+it is melted, stir it about, and set it away to cool. Beat eight eggs
+till very light, and mix them gradually into the other pan of milk,
+alternately with half a pound of flour. Then mix in by degrees the milk
+that has the butter in it. Lastly, stir in a large table-spoonful of
+strong fresh yeast. Cover the pan, and set it near the fire to rise.
+When the batter is quite light, heat your waffle-iron, by putting it
+among the coals of a clear bright fire; grease the inside with butter
+tied in a rag, and then put in some batter. Shut the iron closely, and
+when the waffle is done on one side, turn the iron on the other. Take
+the cake out by slipping a knife underneath; and then heat and grease
+the iron for another waffle. Send them to table quite hot, four or six
+on a plate; having buttered them and strewed over each a mixture of
+powdered cinnamon, and white sugar. Or you may send the sugar and
+cinnamon in a little glass bowl.
+
+In buying waffle-irons, do not choose those broad shallow ones that are
+to hold four at a time; as the waffles baked in them are too small, too
+thin, and are never of a good shape. The common sort that bake but two
+at once are much the best.
+
+NEW YORK COOKIES.
+
+Take a half-pint or a tumbler full of cold water, and mix it with half
+a pound of powdered white sugar. Sift three pounds of flour into a
+large pan and cut up in it a pound of butter; rub the butter very fine
+into the flour. Add a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
+cinnamon, with a wine glass of rose water. Work in the sugar, and make
+the whole into a stiff dough, adding, if necessary, a little cold
+water. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in just enough of warm
+water to cover it, and mix it in at the last. Take the lump of dough
+out of the pan, and knead it on the paste-board till it becomes quite
+light. Then roll it out rather more than half an inch thick, and cut it
+into square cakes with a jagging iron or with a sharp knife. Stamp the
+surface of each with a cake print. Lay them in buttered pans, and bake
+them of a light brown in a brisk oven.
+
+They are similar to what are called New Year’s cakes, and will keep two
+or three weeks.
+
+In mixing the dough, you may add three table-spoonfuls of carraway
+seeds.
+
+SUGAR BISCUIT.
+
+Wet a pound of sugar with two large tea-cups full of milk; and rub a
+pound of butter into two pounds of flour; adding a table-spoonful of
+cinnamon, and a handful of carraway seeds. Mix in the sugar, add a
+tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved, and make the whole into a stiff
+dough. Knead it, and then roll it out into a sheet about half an inch
+thick. Beat it on both sides with the rolling-pin, and then cut it out
+with the edge of a tumbler into round cakes. Prick them with a fork,
+lay them in buttered pans, and bake them light brown in a quick oven.
+You may colour them yellow by mixing in with the other ingredients a
+little of the infusion of saffron.
+
+RUSKS.
+
+Sift three pounds of flour into a large pan, and rub into it half a
+pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar. Beat two eggs very light,
+and stir them into a pint and a half of milk, adding two
+table-spoonfuls of rose water, and three table-spoonfuls of the best
+and strongest yeast. Make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour in
+the liquid, and gradually mix the flour into it till you have a thick
+batter. Cover it, and set it by the fire to rise. When it is quite
+light, put it on your paste-board and knead it well. Then divide it
+into small round cakes and knead each separately. Lay them very near
+each other in shallow iron pans that have been sprinkled with flour.
+Prick the top of each rusk with a fork, and set them by the fire to
+rise again for half an hour or more. When they are perfectly light,
+bake them in a moderate oven. They are best when fresh.
+
+You can convert them into what are called Hard Rusks, or Tops and
+Bottoms, by splitting them in half, and putting them again into the
+oven to harden and crisp.
+
+MILK BISCUIT.
+
+Cut up three quarters of a pound of butter in a quart of milk, and set
+it near the fire to warm, till the butter becomes soft; then with a
+knife, mix it thoroughly with the milk, and set it away to cool.
+Afterwards stir in two wine glasses of strong fresh yeast, and add by
+degrees as much sifted flour as will make a dough just stiff enough to
+roll out. As soon as it is mixed, roll it into a thick sheet, and cut
+it out into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler or a wine glass.
+Sprinkle a large iron pan with flour; lay the biscuits in it, cover it
+and set it to rise near the fire. When the biscuits are quite light,
+knead each one separately; prick them with a fork, and set them again
+in a warm place for about half an hour. When they are light again, bake
+them in a moderate oven. They should be eaten fresh, and pulled open
+with the fingers, as splitting them with a knife will make them heavy.
+
+WHITE GINGERBREAD.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and rub into it three
+quarters of a pound of butter; then mix in a pound of common white
+sugar powdered; and three table-spoonfuls of the best white ginger.
+Having beaten four eggs very light, mix them gradually with the other
+ingredients in the pan, and add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
+melted in a wine glass of warm milk. Stir the whole as hard as
+possible. Flour your paste-board; lay the lump of dough upon it, and
+roll it out into a sheet an inch thick; adding more flour if necessary.
+Butter a large shallow square pan. Lay the dough into it, and bake it
+in a moderate oven. When cold, cut it into squares. Or you may cut it
+out into separate cakes with a jagging iron, previous to baking. You
+must be careful not to lay them too close together in the pan, lest
+they run into each other.
+
+COMMON GINGERBREAD.
+
+Cut up a pound of butter in a quart of West India molasses, which must
+be perfectly sweet; if it is in the least sour, use sugar house
+molasses instead. Warm it slightly, just enough to melt the butter.
+Crush with the rolling-pin, on the paste-board, half a pound of brown
+sugar, and add it by degrees to the molasses and butter; then stir in a
+tea-cup full of powdered ginger, a large tea-spoonful of powdered
+cloves, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Add gradually
+sufficient flour to make a dough stiff enough to roll out easily; and
+lastly, a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash melted in a little warm
+water. Mix and stir the dough very hard with a spaddle, or a wooden
+spoon; but do not knead it. Then divide it with a knife into equal
+portions; and, having floured your hands, roll it out on the
+paste-board into long even strips. Place them in shallow tin pans, that
+have been buttered; either laying the strips side by side in straight
+round sticks, (uniting them at both ends,) or coil them into rings one
+within another, as you see them at the cake shops. Bake them in a brisk
+oven, taking care that they do not burn; gingerbread scorching sooner
+than any other cake.
+
+To save time and trouble, you may roll out the dough into a sheet near
+an inch thick, and cut it into round flat cakes with a tin cutter, or
+with the edge of a tumbler.
+
+Ground ginger loses much of its strength by keeping. Therefore it will
+be frequently found necessary to put in more than the quantity given in
+the receipt.
+
+GINGERBREAD NUTS.
+
+Rub half a pound of butter into a pound and a half of sifted flour; and
+mix in half a pound of brown sugar, crushed fine with the rolling-pin.
+Add two large table-spoonfuls of ginger, a tea-spoonful of powdered
+cloves, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir in a pint of
+molasses, and the grated peel of a large lemon, but not the juice, as
+you must add at the last, a very small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
+dissolved in a little lukewarm water, and pearl-ash entirely destroys
+the taste of lemon-juice and of every other acid. Stir the whole
+mixture very hard with a spaddle or with a wooden spoon, and make it
+into a lump of dough just stiff enough to roll out into a sheet about
+half an inch thick. Cut it out into small cakes about the size of a
+quarter dollar; or make it up, with your hands well floured, into
+little round balls, flattening them on the top. Lay them in buttered
+pans, and bake them in a moderate oven. They will keep several weeks.
+
+FRANKLIN CAKE.
+
+Mix together a pint of molasses, and half a pint of milk, and cut up in
+it half a pound of butter. Warm them just enough to melt the butter,
+and then stir in six ounces of brown sugar; adding three
+table-spoonfuls of ginger, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a
+tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, and a grated nutmeg. Beat seven eggs
+very light, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in turn with a
+pound and two ounces of flour. Add, at the last, the grated peel and
+juice of two large lemons or oranges; or twelve drops of essence of
+lemon, there being no pearl-ash in this gingerbread. Stir the mixture
+very hard; put it into little queen cake tins, well buttered; and bake
+it in a moderate oven. It is best the second day, and will keep soft a
+week.
+
+GINGER PLUM CAKE.
+
+Stone a pound and a half of raisins, and cut them in two. Wash and dry
+half a pound of currants. Sift into a pan two pounds of flour. Put into
+another pan a pound of brown sugar, (rolled fine,) and cut up in it a
+pound of fresh butter. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add to
+it two table-spoonfuls of the best ginger; one table-spoonful of
+powdered cinnamon; and one of powdered cloves. Then beat six eggs very
+light, and add them gradually to the butter and sugar, in turn with the
+flour and a quart of molasses. Lastly, stir in a tea-spoonful of
+pearl-ash dissolved in a little vinegar, and add by degrees the fruit,
+which must be well dredged with flour. Stir all very hard; put the
+mixture into a buttered pan, and bake it in a moderate oven. Take care
+not to let it burn.
+
+MOLASSES CANDY.
+
+Mix a pound of the best brown sugar with two quarts of West India
+molasses, (which must be perfectly sweet,) and boil it in a preserving
+kettle over a moderate fire for three hours, skimming it well, and
+stirring it frequently after the scum has ceased to rise; taking care
+that it does not burn. Have ready the grated rind and the juice of
+three lemons, and stir them into the molasses after it has boiled about
+two hours and a half; or you may substitute a large tea-spoonful of
+strong essence of lemon. The flavour of the lemon will all be boiled
+out if it is put in too soon. The mixture should boil at least three
+hours, that it may be crisp and brittle when cold. If it is taken off
+the fire too soon, or before it has boiled sufficiently, it will not
+congeal, but will be tough and ropy, and must be boiled over again. It
+will cease boiling of itself when it is thoroughly done. Then take it
+off the fire; have ready a square tin pan; put the mixture into it, and
+set it away to cool.
+
+You may make molasses candy with almonds blanched and slit into pieces;
+stir them in by degrees after the mixture has boiled two hours and a
+half. Or you may blanch a quart of ground-nuts and put them in instead
+of the almonds.
+
+NOUGAT.
+
+Blanch a pound of shelled sweet almonds; and with an almond cutter, or
+a sharp penknife, split each almond into five slips. Spread them over a
+large dish, and place them in a gentle oven. Powder a pound of the
+finest loaf-sugar, and put it into a preserving pan without a drop of
+water. Set it on a chafing-dish over a slow fire, or on a hot stove,
+and stir it with a wooden spoon till the boat has entirely dissolved
+it. Then take the almonds out of the oven, and mix with them the juice
+of two or three lemons. Put them into the sugar a few at a time, and
+let them simmer till it becomes a thick stiff paste, stirring it hard
+all the while. Have ready a mould, or a square tin pan, greased all
+over the inside with sweet oil; put the mixture into it; smooth it
+evenly, and set it in a cold place to harden.
+
+LEMON DROPS.
+
+Squeeze some lemon-juice into a pan. Pound in a mortar some of the best
+loaf-sugar, and then sift it through a very fine sieve. Mix it with the
+lemon-juice, making it so thick that you can scarcely stir it. Put it
+into a porcelain sauce-pan, set it on hot coals, and stir it with a
+wooden spoon five minutes or more. Then take off the pan, and with the
+point of a knife drop the liquid on writing paper. When cold, the drops
+will easily come off.
+
+Peppermint drops may be made as above, substituting for the lemon-juice
+essence of peppermint.
+
+
+
+
+WARM CAKES FOR BREAKFAST AND TEA.
+
+
+BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
+
+Take a quart of buckwheat meal, mix with it a tea-spoonful of salt, and
+add a handful of Indian meal. Pour a large table-spoonful of the best
+brewer’s yeast into the centre of the meal. Then mix it gradually with
+cold water till it becomes a batter. Cover it, put it in a warm place
+and set it to rise; it will take about three hours. When it is quite
+light, and covered with bubbles, it is fit to bake. Put your griddle
+over the fire, and let it get quite hot before you begin. Grease it
+well with a piece of butter tied in a rag. Then dip out a large ladle
+full of the batter and bake it on the griddle; turning it with a broad
+wooden paddle. Let the cakes be of large size, and even at the edges.
+Ragged edges to batter cakes look very badly. Butter them as you take
+them off the griddle. Put several on a plate, and cut them across in
+six pieces.
+
+Grease the griddle anew, between baking each cake.
+
+If your batter has been mixed over night and is found to be sour in the
+morning, melt in warm water a piece of pearl-ash the size of a grain of
+corn, or a little larger; stir it into the batter; let it set half an
+hour, and then bake it. The pearl-ash will remove the sour taste, and
+increase the lightness of the cakes.
+
+FLANNEL CAKES.
+
+Put a table-spoonful of butter into a quart of milk, and warm them
+together till the butter has melted; then stir it well, and set it away
+to cool. Beat five eggs as light as possible, and stir them into the
+milk in turn with three pints of sifted flour; add a small tea-spoonful
+of salt, and a large table-spoonful and a half of the best fresh yeast.
+Set the pan of batter near the fire to rise; and if the yeast is good,
+it will be light in three hours. Then bake it on a griddle in the
+manner of buckwheat cakes. Send them to table hot, and cut across into
+four pieces. This batter may be baked in waffle-irons. If so, send to
+table with the cakes powdered white sugar and cinnamon.
+
+INDIAN BATTER CAKES.
+
+Mix together a quart of sifted Indian meal, (the yellow meal is best
+for all purposes,) and a handful of wheat flour. Warm a quart of milk,
+and stir into it a small tea-spoonful of salt, and two large
+table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Beat three eggs very light,
+and stir them gradually into the milk in turn with the meal. Cover it,
+and set it to rise for three or four hours. When quite light, bake it
+on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Butter them, cut them
+across, and send them to table hot, with molasses in a sauce-boat.
+
+If the batter should chance to become sour before it is baked, stir in
+about a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a little lukewarm
+water; and let it set half an hour longer before it is baked.
+
+INDIAN MUSH CAKES.
+
+Pour into a pan three pints of cold water, and stir gradually into it a
+quart of sifted Indian meal which has been mixed with half a pint of
+wheat flour, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Give it a hard stirring
+at the last. Have ready a hot griddle, and bake the batter immediately,
+in cakes about the size of a saucer. Send them to table piled evenly,
+but not cut. Eat them with butter or molasses.
+
+This is the most economical and expeditious way of making soft Indian
+cakes; but it cannot be recommended as the best. It will be some
+improvement to mix the meal with milk rather than water.
+
+JOHNNY CAKE.
+
+Sift a quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle, and
+pour in a pint of warm water. Mix the meal and water gradually into a
+batter, adding a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat it very hard, and for
+a long time, till it becomes quite light. Then spread it thick and even
+on a stout piece of smooth board. Place it upright on the hearth before
+a clear fire, with a flat iron or something of the sort to support the
+board behind, and bake it well. Cut it into squares, and split and
+butter them hot.
+
+INDIAN FLAPPERS.
+
+Have ready a pint of sifted Indian meal, mixed with a handful of wheat
+flour, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat four eggs very light, and
+stir them by degrees into a quart of milk, in turn with the meal. They
+can be made in a very short time, and should be baked as soon as mixed,
+on a hot griddle; allow a large ladle full of batter to each cake, and
+make them all of the same size. Send them to table hot, buttered and
+cut in half.
+
+INDIAN MUFFINS.
+
+Sift and mix together a pint and a half of yellow Indian meal, and a
+handful of wheat flour. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a
+quart of milk. Beat four eggs very light, and stir into them
+alternately (a little at a time of each) the milk when it is quite
+cold, and the meal; adding a small tea-spoonful of salt. The whole must
+be beaten long and hard. Then butter some muffin rings; set them on a
+hot griddle, and pour some of the batter into each.
+
+Send the muffins to table hot, and split them by pulling them open with
+your fingers, as a knife will make them heavy. Eat them with butter,
+molasses or honey.
+
+WATER MUFFINS.
+
+Put four table-spoonfuls of fresh strong yeast into a pint of lukewarm
+water. Add a little salt; about a small tea-spoonful; then stir in
+gradually as much sifted flour as will make a thick batter. Cover the
+pan, and set it in a warm place to rise. When it is quite light, and
+your griddle is hot, grease and set your muffin rings on it; having
+first buttered them round the inside. Dip out a ladle full of the
+batter for each ring, and bake them over a quick fire. Send them to
+table hot, and split them by pulling open with your hands.
+
+COMMON MUFFINS.
+
+Having melted three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter in three pints of
+warm milk, set it away to cool. Then beat three eggs as light as
+possible, and stir them gradually into the milk when it is quite cold;
+adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Stir in by degrees enough of sifted
+flour to make a batter as thick as you can conveniently beat it; and
+lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast from the brewery.
+Cover the batter and set it in a warm place to rise. It should be light
+in about three hours. Having heated your griddle, grease it with some
+butter tied in a rag; grease your muffin rings round the inside, and
+set them on the griddle. Take some batter out of the pan with a ladle
+or a large spoon, pour it lightly into the rings, and bake the muffins
+of a light brown. When done, break or split them open with your
+fingers; butter them and send them to table hot.
+
+SODA BISCUITS.
+
+Melt half a pound of butter in a pint of warm milk, adding a
+tea-spoonful of soda; and stir in by degrees half a pound of sugar.
+Then sift into a pan two pounds of flour; make a hole in the middle;
+pour in the milk, &c., and mix it with the flour into a dough. Put it
+on your paste-board, and knead it long and hard till it becomes very
+light. Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick. Cut it into little
+round cakes with the top of a wine glass, or with a tin cutter of that
+size; prick the tops; lay them on tins sprinkled with flour, or in
+shallow iron pans; and bake them of a light brown in a quick oven; they
+will be done in a few minutes. These biscuits keep very well.
+
+A SALLY LUNN.
+
+This cake is called after the inventress. Sift into a pan a pound and a
+half of flour. Make a hole in the middle, and put in two ounces of
+butter warmed in a pint of milk, a salt-spoonful of salt, three
+well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Mix
+the flour well into the other ingredients, and put the whole into a
+square tin pan that has been greased with butter. Cover it, set it in a
+warm place, and when it is quite light, bake it in a moderate oven.
+Send it to table hot, and eat it with butter.
+
+Or, you may bake it on a griddle, in small muffin rings, pulling the
+cakes open and buttering them when brought to table.
+
+SHORT CAKES.
+
+Rub three quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a pound and a half
+of sifted flour; and make it into a dough with a little cold water.
+Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick, and cut it into round
+cakes with the edge of a tumbler. Prick them with a fork; lay them in a
+shallow iron pan sprinkled with flour, and bake them in a moderate oven
+till they are brown. Send them to table hot; split and butter them.
+
+TEA BISCUIT.
+
+Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a quart of warm milk, and
+add a salt-spoonful of salt. Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, make
+a hole in the centre, and put in three table-spoonfuls of the best
+brewer’s yeast. Add the milk and butter and mix it into a stiff paste.
+Cover it and set it by the fire to rise. When quite light, knead it
+well, roll it out an inch thick, and cut it into round cakes with the
+edge of a tumbler. Prick the top of each with a fork; lay them in
+buttered pans and bake them light brown. Send them to table warm, and
+split and butter them.
+
+RICE CAKES.
+
+Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and boil it very soft. Then drain
+it, and let it get cold. Sift a pint and a half of flour over the pan
+of rice, and mix in a quarter of a pound of butter that has been warmed
+by the fire, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Beat five eggs very light,
+and stir them gradually into a quart of milk. Beat the whole very hard,
+and bake it in muffin rings, or in waffle-irons. Send them to table
+hot, and eat them with butter, honey, or molasses. You may make these
+cakes of rice flour instead of mixing together whole rice and wheat
+flour.
+
+CREAM CAKES.
+
+Having beaten three eggs very light, stir them into a quart of cream
+alternately with a quart of sifted flour; and add one wine glass of
+strong yeast, and a salt-spoon of salt. Cover the batter, and set it
+near the fire to rise. When it is quite light, stir in a large
+table-spoonful of butter that has been warmed by the fire. Bake the
+cakes in muffin rings, and send them to table hot, split with your
+fingers, and buttered.
+
+FRENCH ROLLS.
+
+Sift a pound of flour into a pan, and rub into it two ounces of butter;
+mix in the whites only of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and a
+table-spoonful of strong yeast; add sufficient milk to make a stiff
+dough, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Cover it and set it before the fire
+to rise. It should be light in an hour. Then put it on a paste-board,
+divide it into rolls, or round cakes; lay them in a floured square pan,
+and bake them about ten minutes in a quick oven.
+
+COMMON ROLLS.
+
+Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of
+salt. Warm together a jill of water and a jill of milk. Make a hole in
+the middle of the pan of flour; mix with the milk and water a jill of
+the best yeast, and pour it into the hole. Mix into the liquid enough
+of the surrounding flour to make a thin batter, which you must stir
+till quite smooth and free from lumps. Then strew a handful of flour
+over the top, and set it in a warm, place to rise for two hours or
+more. When it is quite light, and has cracked on the top, make it into
+a dough with some more milk and water. Knead it well for ten minutes.
+Cover it, and set it again to rise for twenty minutes. Then make the
+dough into rolls or round balls. Bake them in a square pan, and send
+them to table hot, cut in three, buttered and put together again.
+
+BREAD.
+
+Take one peck or two gallons of fine wheat flour, and sift it into a
+kneading trough, or into a small clean tub, or a large broad earthen
+pan; and make a deep hole in the middle of the heap of flour, to begin
+the process by what is called setting a sponge. Have ready half a pint
+of warm water, which in summer should be only lukewarm, but even in
+winter it must not be hot or boiling, and stir it well into half a pint
+of strong fresh yeast; (if the yeast is home-made you must use from
+three quarters to a whole pint;) then pour it into the hole in the
+middle of the flour. With a spoon work in the flour round the edges of
+the liquid, so as to bring in by degrees sufficient flour to form a
+thin batter, which must be well stirred about, for a minute or two.
+Then take a handful of flour, and scatter it thinly over the top of
+this batter, so as to cover it entirely. Lay a warmed cloth over the
+whole, and set it to rise in a warm place; in winter put it nearer the
+fire than in summer. When the batter has risen so as to make cracks in
+the flour on the top, scatter over it three or four table-spoonfuls
+(not more) of fine salt, and begin to form the whole mass into a dough;
+commencing round the hole containing the batter, and pouring as much
+soft water as is necessary to make the flour mix with the batter; the
+water must never be more than lukewarm. When the whole is well mixed,
+and the original batter which is to give fermentation to the dough is
+completely incorporated with it, knead it hard, turning it over,
+pressing it, folding it, and working it thoroughly with your clenched
+hands for twenty minutes or half an hour; or till it becomes perfectly
+light and stiff. The goodness of bread depends much on the kneading,
+which to do well requires strength and practice. When it has been
+sufficiently worked, form the dough into a lump in the middle of the
+trough or pan, and scatter a little dry flour thinly over it; then
+cover it, and set it again in a warm place to undergo a farther
+fermentation; for which, if all has been done rightly, about twenty
+minutes or half an hour will be sufficient. The oven should be hot by
+the time the dough has remained twenty minutes in the lump. If it is a
+brick oven it should be heated by faggots or small light wood, allowed
+to remain in till burnt down into coals. When the bread is ready, clear
+out the coals, and sweep and wipe the floor of the oven clean.
+Introduce nothing wet into the oven, as it may crack the bricks when
+they are hot. Try the heat of the bottom by throwing in some flour; and
+if it scorches and burns black, do not venture to put in the bread till
+the oven has had time to become cooler. Put the dough on the
+paste-board, (which must be sprinkled with flour,) and divide it into
+loaves, forming them of a good shape. Place them in the oven, and close
+up the door, which you may open once or twice to see how the bread is
+going on. The loaves will bake in from two hours and a half to three
+hours, or more, according to their size. When the loaves are done, wrap
+each in a clean coarse towel, and stand them up on end to cool slowly.
+It is a good way to have the cloths previously made damp by sprinkling
+them plentifully with water, and letting them lie awhile rolled up
+tightly. This will make the crust of the bread less dry and hard. Bread
+should be kept always wrapped in a cloth, and covered from the air in a
+box or basket with a close lid. Unless you have other things to bake at
+the same time, it is not worth while to heat a brick oven for a small
+quantity of bread. Two or three loaves can be baked very well in a
+stove, (putting them into square iron pans,) or in a Dutch oven.
+[Footnote: If you bake bread in a Dutch oven, take off the lid when the
+loaf is done, and let it remain in the oven uncovered for a quarter of
+an hour.] If the bread has been mixed over night (which should never be
+done in warm weather) and is found, on tasting it, to be sour in the
+morning, melt a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in a little milk-warm water,
+and sprinkle it over the dough; let it set half an hour, and then knead
+it. This will remove the acidity, and rather improve the bread in
+lightness. If dough is allowed to freeze it is totally spoiled. All
+bread that is sour, heavy, or ill-baked is not only unpalatable, but
+extremely unwholesome, and should never be eaten. These accidents so
+frequently happen when bread is made at home by careless, unpractised
+or incompetent persons, that families who live in cities or towns will
+generally risk less and save more, by obtaining their bread from a
+professional baker. If you like a little Indian in your wheat bread,
+prepare rather a larger quantity of warm water for setting the sponge;
+stirring into the water, while it is warming, enough of sifted Indian
+meal to make it like thin gruel. Warm water that has had pumpkin boiled
+in it is very good for bread. Strong fresh yeast from the brewery
+should always be used in preference to any other. If the yeast is
+home-made, or not very strong and fresh, double or treble the quantity
+mentioned in the receipt will be necessary to raise the bread. On the
+other hand, if too much yeast is put in, the bread will be disagreeably
+bitter. [Footnote: If you are obliged from its want of strength to put
+in a large quantity of yeast, mix with it two or three handfuls of
+bran; add the warm water to it, and then strain it through a sieve or
+cloth; or you may correct the bitterness by putting in a few bits of
+charcoal and then straining it.] You may take off a portion of the
+dough that has been prepared for bread, make it up into little round
+cakes or rolls, and bake them for breakfast or tea.
+
+BRAN BREAD.
+
+Sift into a pan three quarts of unbolted wheat meal. Stir a jill of
+strong yeast, and a jill of molasses into a quart of soft water, (which
+must be warm but not hot,) and add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash,
+or sal-aratus. Make a hole in the heap of flour, pour in the liquid,
+and proceed in the usual manner of making bread. This quantity may be
+made into two loaves. Bran bread is considered very wholesome; and is
+recommended to persons afflicted with dyspepsia.
+
+
+RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.
+
+Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them
+well together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling hot upon the
+meal; add two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let
+it stand till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half
+a pint of good fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a
+smaller quantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough,
+and set it to rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been
+previously warmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light,
+and has cracked all over the top, make it into two loaves, put them
+into a moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.
+
+COMMON YEAST.
+
+Put a large handful of hops into two quarts of boiling water, which
+must then be set on the fire again, and boiled twenty minutes with the
+hops. Have ready in a pan three pints of sifted flour; strain the
+liquid, and pour half of it on the flour. Let the other half stand till
+it becomes cool, and then mix it gradually into the pan with the flour,
+&c. Then stir into it half a pint of good strong yeast, fresh from the
+brewery if possible; if not, use some that was left of the last making.
+You may increase the strength by stirring into your yeast before you
+bottle it, four or five large tea-spoonfuls of brown sugar, or as many
+table-spoonfuls of molasses.
+
+Put it into clean bottles, and cork them loosely till the fermentation
+is over. Next morning put in the corks tightly, and set the bottles in
+a cold place. When you are going to bottle the yeast it will be an
+improvement to place two or three raisins at the bottom of each bottle.
+It is best to make yeast very frequently; as, with every precaution, it
+will scarcely keep good a week, even in cold weather. If you are
+apprehensive of its becoming sour, put into each bottle a lump of
+pearl-ash the size of a hazle-nut.
+
+BRAN YEAST.
+
+Mix a pint of wheat bran, and a handful of hops with a quart of water,
+and boil them together about twenty minutes. Then strain it through a
+sieve into a pan; when the liquid becomes only milk-warm, stir into it
+four table-spoonfuls of brewer’s yeast, and two of brown sugar, or four
+of molasses. Put it into a wooden bowl, cover it, and set it near the
+fire for four or five hours. Then bottle it, and cork it tightly next
+day.
+
+PUMPKIN YEAST.
+
+Pare a fine ripe pumpkin, and cut it into pieces. Put them into a
+kettle with a large handful of hops, and as much water as will cover
+them. Boil them till the pumpkin is soft enough to pass through a
+cullender. Having done this, put the pulp into a stone jar, adding half
+a pint of good strong yeast to set it into a fermentation. The yeast
+must be well stirred into the pumpkin. Leave the jar uncovered till
+next day; then secure it lightly with a cork. If pumpkin yeast is well
+made, and of a proper consistence, neither too thick nor too thin, it
+will keep longer than any other.
+
+BAKER’S YEAST.
+
+To a gallon of soft water put two quarts of wheat bran, one quart of
+ground malt, (which may be obtained from a brewery,) and two handfuls
+of hops. Boil them together for half an hour. Then strain it through a
+sieve, and let it stand till it is cold; after which put to it two
+large tea-cups of molasses, and half a pint of strong yeast. Pour it
+into a stone jug, and let it stand uncorked till next morning. Then
+pour off the thin liquid from the top, and cork the jug tightly. When
+you are going to use the yeast, if it has been made two or three days,
+stir in a little pearl-ash dissolved in warm water, allowing a lump the
+size of a hickory-nut to a pint of yeast. This will correct any
+tendency to sourness, and make the yeast more brisk.
+
+TO MAKE BUTTER.
+
+Scald your milk pans every day after washing them; and let them set
+till the water gets cold. Then wipe them with a clean cloth. Fill them
+all with cold water half an hour before milking time, and do not pour
+it out till the moment before you are ready to use the pans. Unless all
+the utensils are kept perfectly sweet and nice, the cream and butter
+will never be good. Empty milk-pans should stand all day in the sun.
+
+When you have strained the milk into the pans, (which should be broad
+and shallow,) place them in the spring-house, setting them down in the
+water. After the milk has stood twenty-four hours, skim off the cream,
+and deposits it in a large deep earthen jar, commonly called a crock,
+which must be kept closely covered, and stirred up with a stick at
+least twice a day, and whenever you add fresh cream to it. This
+stirring is to prevent the butter from being injured by the skin that
+will gather over the top of the cream.
+
+You should churn at least twice a week, for if the cream is allowed to
+stand too long, the butter will inevitably have a odd taste. Add to the
+cream the strippings of the milk. Butter of only two or three days
+gathering is the best. With four or five good cows, you may easily
+manage to have a churning every three days. If your dairy is on a large
+scale, churn every two days.
+
+Have your churn very clean, and rinse and cool it with cold water. A
+barrel churn is best; though a small upright one, worked by a staff or
+dash, will do very well where there are but one or two cows.
+
+Strain the cream from the crock into the churn, and put on the lid.
+Move the handle slowly in warm weather, as churning too fast will make
+the butter soft. When you find that the handle moves heavily and with
+great difficulty, the butter has come; that is, it has separated from
+the thin fluid and gathered into a lump, and it then is not necessary
+to churn any longer. Take it out with a wooden ladle, and put it into a
+small tub or pail. Squeeze and press it hard with the ladle, to get out
+all that remains of the milk. Add a little salt, and then squeeze and
+work It for a long time. If any of the milk is allowed to remain in, it
+will speedily turn sour and spoil the butter. Set it away in a cool
+place for three hours, and then work it over again. [Footnote: A marble
+slab or table will be found of great advantage in working and making up
+butter.] Wash it in cold water; weigh it; make it up into separate
+pounds, smoothing, and shaping it; and clap each pound on your wooden
+butter print, dipping the print every time in cold water. Spread a
+clean linen cloth on a bench in the spring-house; place the butter on
+it, and let it set till it becomes perfectly hard. Then wrap each pound
+in a separate piece of linen that has been dipped in cold water.
+
+Pour the buttermilk into a clean crock, and place it in the
+spring-house, with a saucer to dip it out with. Keep the pot covered.
+The buttermilk will be excellent the first day; but afterwards it will
+become too thick and sour. Winter buttermilk is never very palatable.
+
+Before you put away the churn, wash and scald it well; and the day that
+you use it again, keep it for an hour or more filled with cold water.
+
+In cold weather, churning is a much more tedious process than in
+summer, as the butter will be longer coming. It is best then to have
+the churn in a warm room, or near the fire. If you wish to prepare the
+butter for keeping a long time, take it after it has been thoroughly
+well made, and pack it down tightly into a large jar. You need not in
+working it, add more salt than if the butter was to be eaten
+immediately. But preserve it by making a brine of fine salt, dissolved
+in water. The brine must be strong enough to bear up an egg on the
+surface without sinking. Strain the brine into the jar, so as to be
+about two inches above the butter. Keep the jar closely covered, and
+set it in a cool place.
+
+When you want any of the butter for use, take it off evenly from the
+top; so that the brine may continue to cover it at a regular depth.
+
+This receipt for making butter is according to the method in use at the
+best farm-houses in Pennsylvania, and if exactly followed will be found
+very good. The badness of butter is generally owing to carelessness or
+mismanagement; to keeping the cream too long without churning; to want
+of cleanliness in the utensils; to not taking the trouble to work it
+sufficiently; or to the practice of salting it so profusely as to
+render it unpleasant to the taste, and unfit for cakes or pastry. All
+these causes of bad butter are inexcusable, and can easily be avoided.
+Unless the cows have been allowed to feed where there are bitter weeds
+or garlic, the milk cannot naturally have any disagreeable taste, and
+therefore the fault of the butter must be the fault of the maker. Of
+course, the cream is much richer where the pasture is fine and
+luxuriant; and in winter, when the cows have only dry food, the butter
+must be consequently whiter and more insipid than in the grazing
+season. Still, if properly made, even winter butter cannot taste badly.
+
+Many economical housekeepers always buy for cooking, butter of inferior
+quality. This is a foolish practice; as when it is bad, the taste will
+predominate through all attempts to disguise it, and render every thing
+unpalatable with which it is combined. As the use of butter is designed
+to improve and not to spoil the flavour of cookery, it is better to
+omit it altogether, and to substitute something else, unless you can
+procure that which is good. Lard, suet, beef-drippings, and sweet oil,
+may be used in the preparation of various dishes; and to eat with bread
+or warm cakes, honey, molasses, or stewed fruit, &c, are far superior
+to bad butter.
+
+CHEESE.
+
+In making good cheese, skim milk is never used. The milk should either
+be warm from the cow or heated to that temperature over the fire. When
+the rennet is put in, the heat of the milk should be from 90 to 96
+degrees. Three quarts of milk will yield, on an average, about a pound
+of cheese. In infusing the rennet, allow a quart of lukewarm water, and
+a table-spoonful of salt to a piece about half the size of your hand.
+The rennet must soak all night in the water before it can be fit for
+use. In the morning (after taking as much of it as you want) put the
+rennet water into a bottle and cork it tightly. It will keep the better
+for adding to it a wine glass of brandy. If too large a proportion of
+rennet is mixed with the milk, the cheese will be tough and leathery.
+
+To make a very good cheese, take three buckets of milk warm from the
+cow, and strain it immediately into a large tub or kettle. Stir into it
+half a tea-cupful of infusion of rennet or rennet-water; and having
+covered it, set it in a warm place for about half an hour, or till it
+becomes a firm curd. Cut the curd into squares with a large knife, or
+rather with a wooden slitting-dish, and let it stand about fifteen
+minutes. Then break it up fine with your hands, and let it stand a
+quarter of an hour longer. Then pour off from the top as much of the
+whey as you can; tie up the curd in a linen cloth or bag, and hang it
+up to drain out the remainder of the whey; setting a pan under it to
+catch the droppings. After all the whey is drained out, put the curd
+into the cheese-tray, and cut it again into slices; chop it coarse; put
+a cloth about it; place it in the cheese-hoop or mould, and set it in
+the screw press for half an hour, pressing it hard. [Footnote: If you
+are making cheese on a small scale, and have not a regular press, put
+the curd (after you have wrapped it in a cloth) into a small circular
+wooden box or tub with numerous holes bored in the bottom; and with a
+lid that fits the inside exactly. Lay heavy weights on the lid in such
+a manner as to press evenly all over.] Then take it out; chop the curd
+very fine; add salt to your taste; and put it again into the
+cheese-hoop with a cloth about it, and press it again. You must always
+wet the cloth all over to prevent its sticking to the cheese, and
+tearing the surface. Let it remain in the press till next morning, when
+you must take it out and turn it; then wrap it in a clean wet cloth,
+and replace it in the press, where it must remain all day. On the
+following morning again take out the cheese; turn it, renew the cloth,
+and put it again into the press. Three days pressing will be
+sufficient.
+
+When you finally take it out of the press, grease the cheese all over
+with lard, and put it on a clean shelf in a dry dark room, or in a wire
+safe. Wipe, grease, and turn it carefully every day. If you omit this a
+single day the cheese will spoil. Keep the shelf perfectly clean, and
+see that the cheese does not stick to it. When the cheese becomes firm,
+you may omit the greasing; but continue to rub it all over every day
+with a clean dry cloth. Continue this for five or sis weeks; the cheese
+will then be fit to eat.
+
+The best time for making cheese is when the pasture is in perfection.
+
+You may enrich the colour of the cheese by a little anatto or arnotta;
+of which procure a small quantity from the druggist, powder it, tie it
+in a muslin rag, and hold it in the warm milk, (after it is strained,)
+pressing out the colouring matter with your fingers, as laundresses
+press their indigo or blue rag in the tub of water. Anatto is perfectly
+harmless.
+
+After they begin to dry, (or ripen, as it is called,) it is the custom
+in some dairy-farms, to place the cheeses in the haystack, and keep
+them there among the hay for five or six weeks. This is said greatly to
+improve their consistence and flavour. Cheeses are sometimes ripened by
+putting them every day in fresh grass.
+
+SAGE CHEESE.
+
+Take some of the young top leaves of the sage plant, and pound them in
+a mortar till you have extracted the juice. Put the juice into a bowl,
+wipe out the mortar, put in some spinach leaves, and pound them till
+you have an equal quantity of spinach juice. Mix the two juices
+together, and stir them into the warm milk immediately after you have
+put in the rennet. You may use sage juice alone; but the spinach will
+greatly improve the colour; besides correcting the bitterness of the
+sage.
+
+STILTON CHEESE.
+
+Having strained the morning’s milk, and skimmed the cream from the milk
+of the preceding evening, mix the cream and the new milk together while
+the latter is quite warm, and stir in the rennet-water. When the curd
+has formed, you must not break it up, (as is done with other cheese,)
+but take it out all at once with a wooden skimming dish, and place it
+on a sieve to drain gradually. While it is draining, keep pressing it
+gently till it becomes firm and dry. Then lay a clean cloth at the
+bottom of a wooden cheese-hoop or mould, which should have a few small
+holes bored in the bottom. The cloth must be large enough for the end
+to turn over the top again, after the curd is put in. Place it in the
+press for two hours; turn it, (putting a clean cloth under it,) and
+press it again for six or eight hours. Then turn it again, rub the
+cheese all over with salt, and return it to the press for fourteen
+hours. Should the edges of the cheese project, they must be pared off.
+
+When you take it finally out of the press, bind it round tightly with a
+cloth, (which must be changed every day when you turn the cheese,) and
+set it on a shelf or board. Continue the cloths till the cheese is firm
+enough to support itself; rubbing or brushing the outside every day
+when you turn it. After the cloths are left off, continue to brush the
+cheese every day for two or three months; during which time it may be
+improved by keeping it covered all round, under and over, with grass,
+which must be renewed every day, and gathered when quite dry after the
+dew is off. Keep the cheese and the grass between two large plates.
+
+A Stilton cheese is generally made of a small size, seldom larger in
+circumference than a dinner plate, and about four or five inches thick.
+They are usually put up for keeping, in cases of sheet lead, fitting
+them exactly. There is no cheese superior to them in richness and
+mildness.
+
+Cream cheeses (as they are generally called) may be made in this
+manner. They are always eaten quite fresh, while the inside is still
+somewhat soft. They are made small, and are sent to table whole, cut
+across into triangular slices like a pie or cake. After they become fit
+to eat, they will keep good but a day or two, but they are considered
+while fresh very delicious.
+
+COTTAGE CHEESE.
+
+This is that preparation of milk vulgarly called Smear Case. Take a pan
+of milk that has just began to turn sour; cover it, and set it by the
+fire till it becomes a curd. Pour off the whey from the top, and tie up
+the curd in a pointed linen bag, and hang it up to drain; setting
+something under it to catch the droppings. Do not squeeze it. Let it
+drain all night, and in the morning put the curd into a pan, (adding
+some rich cream,) and work it very fine with a spoon, chopping and
+pressing it till about the consistence of a soft bread pudding. To a
+soup plate of the fine curd put a tea-spoonful of salt; and a piece of
+butter about the size of a walnut; mixing all thoroughly together.
+Having prepared the whole in this manner, put it into a stone or china
+vessel; cover it closely, and set it in a cold place till tea time. You
+may make it of milk that is entirely sweet by forming the curd with
+rennet.
+
+A WELSH RABBIT.
+
+Toast some slices of bread, (having cut off the crust,) butter them,
+and keep them hot. Grate or shave down with a knife some fine mellow
+cheese: and, if it is not very rich, mix with it a few small bits of
+butter. Put it into a cheese-toaster, or into a skillet, and add to it
+a tea-spoonful of made mustard; a little cayenne pepper; and if you
+choose, a wine glass of fresh porter or of red wine. Stir the mixture
+over hot coals, till it is completely dissolved; and then brown it by
+holding over it a salamander, or a red-hot shovel. Lay the toast in the
+bottom and round the sides of a deep dish; put the melted cheese upon
+it, and serve it up as hot as possible, with dry toast in a separate
+plate; and accompanied by porter or ale.
+
+This preparation of cheese is for a plain supper.
+
+Dry cheese is frequently grated on little plates for the tea-table.
+
+TO MAKE CHOCOLATE
+
+To each square of a chocolate cake allow three jills, or a chocolate
+cup and a half of boiling water. Scrape down the chocolate with a
+knife, and mix it first to a paste with a small quantity of the hot
+water; just enough to melt it in. Then put it into a block tin pot with
+the remainder of the water; set it on hot coals; cover it, and let it
+boil (stirring it twice) till the liquid is one third reduced. Supply
+that third with cream or rich milk; stir it again, and take it off the
+fire. Serve it up as hot as possible, with dry toast, or dry rusk. It
+chills immediately. If you wish it frothed, pour it into the cup, and
+twirl round in it the little wooden instrument called a chocolate mill,
+till you nave covered the top with foam.
+
+TO MAKE TEA.
+
+In buying tea, it is best to get it by the box, of an importer, that
+you may be sure of having it fresh, and unmixed with any that is old
+and of inferior quality. The box should be kept in a very dry place. If
+green tea is good, it will look green in the cup when poured out. Black
+tea should be dark coloured and have a fragrant flowery smell. The best
+pots for making tea are those of china. Metal and Wedgwood tea-pots by
+frequent use will often communicate a disagreeable taste to the tea.
+This disadvantage may be remedied in Wedgwood ware, by occasionally
+boiling the tea-pots in a vessel of hot water.
+
+In preparing to make tea, let the pot be twice scalded from the
+tea-kettle, which must be boiling hard at the moment the water is
+poured on the tea; otherwise it will be weak and insipid, even when a
+large quantity is put in. The best way is to have a chafing dish, with
+a kettle always boiling on it, in the room where the tea is made. It is
+a good rule to allow two tea-spoonfuls of tea to half a pint or a large
+cupful of water, or two tea-spoonfuls for each grown person that is to
+drink tea, and one spoonful extra. The pot being twice scalded, put in
+the tea, and pour on the water about ten minutes before you want to
+fill the cups, that it may have time to draw or infuse. Have hot water
+in another pot, to weaken the cups of those that like it so. That the
+second course of cups may be as strong as the first, put some tea into
+a cup just before you sit down to table, pour on it a very little
+boiling water, (just enough to cover it,) set a saucer over it to keep
+in the steam, and let it infuse till you have filled all the first
+cups; then add it to that already in the tea-pot, and pour in a little
+boiling water from the kettle. Except that it is less convenient for a
+large family, a kettle on a chafing dish is better than an urn, as the
+water may be kept longer boiling.
+
+In making black tea, use a larger quantity than of green, as it is of a
+much weaker nature. The best black teas in general use are pekoe and
+pouchong; the best green teas are imperial, young hyson, and gunpowder.
+
+TO MAKE COFFEE.
+
+The manner in which coffee is roasted is of great importance to its
+flavour. If roasted too little, it will be weak and insipid; if too
+much, the taste will be bitter and unpleasant. To have it very good, it
+should be roasted immediately before it is made, doing no more than the
+quantity you want at that time. It loses much of its strength by
+keeping, even in twenty-four hours after roasting. It should on no
+consideration be ground till directly before it is made. Every family
+should be provided with a coffee roaster, which is an iron cylinder to
+stand before the fire, and is either turned by a handle, or wound up
+like a jack to go of itself. If roasted in an open pot or pan, much of
+the flavour evaporates in the process. Before the coffee is put into
+the roaster, it should be carefully examined and picked, lest there
+should be stones or bad grains among it. It should be roasted of a
+bright brown; and will be improved by putting among it a piece of
+butter when about half done.
+
+Watch it carefully while roasting, looking at it frequently.
+
+A coffee-mill affixed to the wall is far more convenient than one that
+must he held on the lap. It is best to grind the coffee while warm.
+
+Allow half a pint of ground coffee to three pints of water. If the
+coffee is not freshly roasted, you should put in more. Put the water
+into the tin coffee-pot, and set it on hot coals; when it boils, put in
+the coffee, a spoonful at a time, (stirring it between each spoonful,)
+and add two or three chips of isinglass, or the white of an egg. Stir
+it frequently, till it has risen up to the top in boiling; then set it
+a little farther from the fire, and boil it gently for ten minutes, or
+a quarter of an hour; after which pour in a tea-cup of cold water, and
+put it in the corner to settle for ten minutes. Scald your silver or
+china pot, and transfer the coffee to it; carefully pouring it off from
+the grounds, so as not to disturb them.
+
+If coffee is allowed to boil too long, it will lose much of its
+strength, and also become sour.
+
+FRENCH COFFEE.
+
+To make coffee without boiling, you must have a biggin, the best sort
+of which is what in France is called a Grecque. They are to be had of
+various sizes and prices at the tin stores. Coffee made in this manner
+is much less troublesome than when boiled, and requires no white of egg
+or isinglass to clear it. The coffee should be freshly roasted and
+ground. Allow two cupfuls of ground coffee to sis cupfuls of boiling
+water. Having first scalded the biggin, (which should have strainers of
+perforated tin, and not of linen,) put in the coffee, and pour on the
+water, which should be boiling hard at the time. Shut down the lid,
+place the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready as soon as it
+has all drained through the coarse and fine strainers into the receiver
+below the spout. Scald your china or silver pot, and pour the coffee
+into it. But it is best to have a biggin in the form of an urn, in
+which the coffee can both be made and brought to table.
+
+For what is called milk coffee,—boil the milk or cream separately;
+bring it to table in a covered vessel, and pour it hot into the coffee,
+the flavour of which will be impaired if the milk is boiled with it.
+
+
+
+
+DOMESTIC LIQUORS ETC.
+
+
+SPRUCE BEER
+
+Put into a large kettle, ten gallons of water, a quarter of a pound of
+hops, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Boil them together till all the hops
+sink to the bottom. Then dip out a bucket full of the liquor, and stir
+into it six quarts of molasses, and three ounces and a half of the
+essence of spruce. When all is dissolved, mix it with the liquor in the
+kettle; strain it through a hair sieve into a cask; and stir well into
+it half a pint of good strong yeast. Let it ferment a day or two; then
+bung up the cask, and you may bottle the beer the next day. It will be
+fit for use in a week.
+
+For the essence of spruce, you may substitute two pounds of the outer
+sprigs of the spruce fir, boiled ten minutes in the liquor.
+
+To make spruce beer for present use, and in a smaller quantity, boil a
+handful of hops in two gallons and a half of water, till they fall to
+the bottom, Then strain the water, and when it is lukewarm, stir into
+it a table-spoonful of ground white ginger; a pint of molasses; a
+table-spoonful of essence of spruce; and half a pint of yeast. Mix the
+whole well together in a stone jug, and let it ferment for a day and a
+half, or two days. Then put it into bottles, with three or four raisins
+in the bottom of each, to prevent any further fermentation. It will
+then be fit for immediate use.
+
+GINGER BEER.
+
+Break up a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, and mix with it three ounces
+of strong white ginger, and the grated peel of two lemons. Put these
+ingredients into a large stone jar, and pour over them two gallons of
+boiling water. When it becomes milk-warm strain it, and add the juice
+of the lemons and two large table-spoonfuls of strong yeast. Make this
+beer in the evening and let it stand all night. Next morning bottle it
+in little half pint stone bottles, tying down the corks with twine.
+
+MOLASSES BEER.
+
+To six quarts of water, add two quarts of West India molasses; half a
+pint of the best brewer’s yeast; two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger;
+and one table-spoonful of cream of tartar. Stir all together. Let it
+stand twelve hours, and then bottle it, putting three or four raisins
+into each bottle.
+
+It will be much improved by substituting the juice and grated peel of a
+large lemon, for one of the spoonfuls of ginger.
+
+Molasses beer keeps good but two or three days.
+
+SASSAFRAS BEER.
+
+Have ready two gallons of soft water; one quart of wheat bran; a large
+handful of dried apples; half a pint of molasses; a small handful of
+hops; half a pint of strong fresh yeast, and a piece of sassafras root
+the size of an egg.
+
+Put all the ingredients (except the molasses and yeast) at once into a
+large kettle. Boil it till the apples are quite soft. Put the molasses
+into a small clean tub or a large pan. Set a hair sieve over the
+vessel, and strain the mixture through it. Let it stand till it becomes
+only milk-warm, and then stir in the yeast. Put the liquor immediately
+into the keg or jugs, and let it stand uncorked to ferment. Fill the
+jugs quite full, that the liquor in fermenting may run over. Set them
+in a large tub. When you see that the fermentation or working has
+subsided, cork it, and it will be fit for use next day.
+
+Two large table-spoonfuls of ginger stirred into the molasses will be
+found an improvement.
+
+If the yeast is stirred in while the liquor is too warm, it will be
+likely to turn sour.
+
+If the liquor is not put immediately into the jugs, it will not ferment
+well.
+
+Keep it in a cold place. It will not in warm weather be good more than
+two days. It is only made for present use.
+
+GOOSEBERRY WINE.
+
+Allow three gallons of soft water (measured after it has boiled an
+hour) to six gallons of gooseberries, which must be full ripe. Top and
+tail the gooseberries; put them, a few at a time, into a wooden dish,
+and with a rolling-pin or beetle break and mash every one; transferring
+them, as they are done, into a large stone jar. Pour the boiling water
+upon the mashed gooseberries; cover the jar, and let them stand twelve
+hours. Then strain and measure the juice, and to each quart allow
+three-quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar; mix it with the liquid, and
+let it stand eight or nine hours to dissolve, stirring it several
+times.
+
+Then pour it into a keg of proper size for containing it, and let it
+ferment at the bung-hole; filling it up as it works out with some of
+the liquor reserved for that purpose. As soon as it ceases to hiss,
+stop it close with a cloth wrapped round the bung. A pint of white
+brandy for every gallon of the gooseberry wine may be added on bunging
+it up. At the end of four or five months it will probably be fine
+enough to bottle off. It is best to bottle it in cold frosty weather.
+You may refine it by allowing to every gallon of wine the whites of two
+eggs, beaten to a froth, with a very small tea-spoonful of salt. When
+the white of egg, &c, is a stiff froth, take out a quart of the wine,
+and mix them well together. Then pour it into the cask, and in a few
+days it will be fine and clear. You may begin to use it any time after
+it is bottled. Put two or three raisins in the bottom of each bottle.
+They will tend to keep the wine from any farther fermentation.
+
+Fine gooseberry wine has frequently passed for champagne. Keep the
+bottles in saw-dust, lying on their sides.
+
+CURRANT WINE.
+
+Take four gallons of ripe currants; strip them from the stalks into a
+great stone jar that has a cover to it, and mash them with a long thick
+stick. Let them stand twenty-four hours; then put the currants into a
+large linen bag; wash out the jar, set it under the bag, and squeeze
+the juice into it. Boil together two gallons and a half of water, and
+five pounds and a half of the best loaf-sugar, skimming it well. When
+the scum ceases to rise, mix the syrup with the currant juice. Let it
+stand a fortnight or three weeks to settle; and then transfer it to
+another vessel, taking care not to disturb the lees or dregs. If it is
+not quite clear and bright, refine it by mixing with a quart of the
+wine, (taken out for the purpose,) the whites of two eggs beaten to a
+stiff froth, and half an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour this gradually
+into the vessel. Let it stand ten days, and then bottle it off. Place
+the bottles in saw-dust, laying them on their sides. Take care that the
+saw-dust is not from pine wood. The wine will be fit to drink in a
+year, but is better when three or four years old.
+
+You may add a little brandy to it when you make it; allowing a quart of
+brandy to six gallons of wine.
+
+RASPBERRY WINE.
+
+Put four gallons of ripe raspberries into a stone jar, and mash them
+with a round stick. Take four gallons of soft water, (measured after it
+has boiled an hour,) and strain it warm over the raspberries. Stir it
+well and let it stand twelve hours. Then strain it through a bag, and
+to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of loaf-sugar. Set it over a
+clear fire, and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. When it
+is cold bottle it. Open the bottles every day for a fortnight, closing
+them again in a few minutes. Then seal the corks, and lay the bottles
+on their sides in saw-dust, which must not be from pine wood.
+
+ELDERBERRY WINE.
+
+Gather the elderberries when quite ripe; put them into a stone jar,
+mash them with a round stick, and set them in a warm oven, or in a
+large kettle of boiling water till the jar is hot through, and the
+berries begin to simmer. Then take them out, and press and strain them
+through a sieve. To every quart of juice allow a pound of Havanna or
+Lisbon sugar, and two quarts of cold soft water. Put the sugar into a
+large kettle, pour the juice over it, and, when it has dissolved, stir
+in the water. Set the kettle over the fire, an& boil and skim it till
+the scum ceases to rise. To four gallons of the liquor add a pint and a
+half of brandy. Put it into a keg, and let it stand with the bung put
+in loosely for four or five days, by which time it will have ceased to
+ferment. Then stop it closely, plastering the bung with clay. At the
+end of six months, draw off a little of it; and if it is not quite
+clear and bright, refine it with the whites and shells of three or four
+eggs, beaten to a stiff froth and stirred into a quart of the wine,
+taken out for the purpose and then returned to the cask; or you may
+refine it with an ounce or more of dissolved isinglass. Let it stand a
+week or two, and then bottle it.
+
+This is an excellent domestic wine, very common in England, and
+deserving to be better known in America, where the elderberry tree is
+found in great abundance. Elderberry wine is generally taken mulled
+with spice, and warm.
+
+ELDER FLOWER WINE.
+
+Take the flowers or blossoms of the elder tree, and strip them from the
+stalks. To every quart of flowers allow one gallon of water, and three
+pounds of while sugar. Boil and skim the sugar and water, and then pour
+it hot on the flowers. When cool, mix in with it some lemon juice and
+some yeast; allowing to six gallons of the liquor the juice of six
+lemons, and four or five table-spoonfuls of good yeast stirred in very
+hard. Let it ferment for three days in a tub covered with a double
+blanket. Then strain the wine through a sieve, (add six whites of eggs
+beaten to a stiff froth, or an ounce of melted isinglass,) and put it
+into a cask, in the bottom of which you have laid four or five pounds
+of the best raisins, stoned. Stop the cask closely, and in six months
+the wine will be fit to bottle. It will much resemble Frontiniac, the
+elder flowers imparting to it a very pleasant taste.
+
+CIDER WINE.
+
+Take sweet cider immediately from the press. Strain it through a
+flannel bag into a tub, and stir into it as much honey as will make it
+strong enough to bear up an egg. Then boil and skim it, and when the
+scum ceases to rise, strain it again. When cool, put it into a cask,
+and set it in a cool cellar till spring. Then bottle it off; and when
+ripe, it will be found a very pleasant beverage. The cider must be of
+the very best quality, made entirely from good sound apples.
+
+MEAD.
+
+To every gallon of water put five pounds of strained honey, (the water
+must be hot when you add the honey,) and boil it three quarters of an
+hour, skimming it well. Then put in some hops tied in a thin bag,
+(allowing an ounce or a handful to each gallon,) and let it boil half
+an hour longer. Strain it into a tub, and let it stand four days. Then
+put it into a cask, (or into a demijohn if the quantity is small,)
+adding for each gallon of mead a jill of brandy and a sliced lemon. If
+a large cask, do not bottle it till it has stood a year.
+
+FOX GRAPE SHRUB.
+
+Gather the grapes when they are full grown, but before they begin to
+purple. Pick from the stems a sufficient quantity to nearly fill a
+large preserving kettle, and pour on them as much boiling water as the
+kettle will hold. Set it over a brisk fire, and keep it scalding hot
+till all the grapes have burst. Then take them off, press out and
+strain the liquor, and allow to each quart a pound of sugar stirred
+well in. Dissolve the sugar in the juice; then put them together into a
+clean kettle, and boil and skim them for ten minutes, or till the scum
+ceases to rise. When cold, bottle it; first putting into each bottle a
+jill of brandy. Seal the bottles, and keep them in a warm closet.
+
+You may make gooseberry shrub in this manner.
+
+CURRANT SHRUB.
+
+Your currants must be quite ripe. Pick them from the stalks, and
+squeeze them through a linen bag. To each quart of juice allow a pound
+of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar and juice into a preserving kettle, and
+let it melt before it goes on the fire. Boil it ten minutes, skimming
+it well. When cold, add a jill of the best white brandy to each quart
+of the juice. Bottle it, and set it away for use; sealing the corks. It
+improves by keeping.
+
+Raspberry shrub may be made in this manner; also strawberry.
+
+CHERRY SHRUB.
+
+Pick from the stalks, and stone a sufficient quantity of ripe morellas,
+or other red cherries of the best and most juicy description. Put them
+with all their juice into a stone jar, and set it, closely covered,
+into a deep kettle of boiling water. Keep it boiling hard for a quarter
+of an hour. Then pour the cherries into a bag, and strain and press out
+all the juice. Allow a pound of sugar to a quart of juice, boil them
+together ten minutes in a preserving kettle, skimming them well, and
+when cold, bottle the liquid; first putting a jill of brandy into each
+bottle.
+
+CHERRY BOUNCE.
+
+Mix together six pounds of ripe morellas and six pounds of large black
+heart cherries. Put them into a wooden bowl or tub, and with a pestle
+or mallet mash them so as to crack all the stones. Mix with the
+cherries three pounds of loaf-sugar, or of sugar candy broken up, and
+put them into a demijohn, or into a large stone jar. Pour on two
+gallons of the best double rectified whiskey. Stop the vessel closely,
+and let it stand three months, shaking it every day during the first
+month. At the end of the three months you may strain the liquor and
+bottle it off. It improves by age.
+
+LEMON SYRUP.
+
+Break up into large pieces six pounds of fine loaf-sugar. Take twelve
+large ripe lemons, and (without cutting them) grate the yellow rind
+upon the sugar. Then, put the sugar, with the lemon gratings and two
+quarts of water, into a preserving kettle, and let it dissolve. When it
+is all melted, boil it till quite thick, skimming it till no more scum
+rises; it will then be done. Have ready the juice of all the lemons,
+and when the syrup is quite cold, stir in the lemon juice. Bottle it,
+and keep it in a cool place.
+
+It makes a delicious drink in summer, in the proportion of one third
+lemon syrup and two thirds ice water.
+
+LEMON CORDIAL.
+
+Pare off very thin the yellow rind of a dozen large lemons; throw the
+parings into a gallon of white brandy, and let them steep till next
+day, or at least twelve hours. Break up four pounds of loaf-sugar into
+another vessel, and squeeze upon it the juice of the lemons. Let this
+too stand all night. Next day mix all together, boil two quarts of
+milk, and pour it boiling hot into the other ingredients. Cover the
+vessel, and let it stand eight days, stirring it daily. Then strain it
+through a flannel bag till the liquid is perfectly clear. Let it stand
+six weeks in a demijohn or glass jar, and then bottle it.
+
+To make it still more clear, you may filter it through a piece of fine
+muslin pinned down to the bottom of a sieve, or through blotting paper,
+which must be frequently renewed. It should be white blotting paper.
+
+ROSE CORDIAL.
+
+Put a pound of fresh rose leaves into a tureen, with a quart of
+lukewarm water. Cover the vessel, and let them infuse for twenty-four
+hours. Then squeeze them through a linen bag till all the liquid is
+pressed out. Put a fresh pound of rose leaves into the tureen, pour the
+liquid back into it, and let it infuse again for two days. You may
+repeat this till you obtain a very strong infusion. Then to a pint of
+the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar, half a pint of white
+brandy, an ounce of broken cinnamon, and an ounce of coriander seeds.
+Put it into a glass jar, cover it well, and let it stand for two weeks.
+Then filter it through a fine muslin or a blotting paper (which must be
+white) pinned on the bottom of a sieve; and bottle it for use.
+
+STRAWBERRY CORDIAL.
+
+Hull a sufficient quantity of ripe strawberries, and squeeze them
+through a linen bag. To each quart of the juice allow a pint of white
+brandy, and half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the liquid into a
+glass jar or a demijohn, and let it stand a fortnight. Then filter it
+through a sieve, to the bottom of which a piece of fine muslin or
+blotting paper has been fastened; and afterwards bottle it,
+
+RASPBERRY CORDIAL.
+
+May be made in the above manner.
+
+QUINCE CORDIAL.
+
+Take the finest and ripest quinces you can procure, wipe them clean,
+and cut out all the defective parts. Then grate them into a tureen or
+some other large vessel, leaving out the seeds and cores. Let the
+grated pulp remain covered in the tureen for twenty-four hours. Then,
+squeeze it through a jelly-bag or cloth. To six quarts of the juice
+allow a quart of cold water, three pounds of loaf-sugar, (broken up,)
+and a quart of white brandy. Mix the whole well together, and put it
+into a stone jar. Have ready three very small flannel or thick muslin
+bags, (not larger than two inches square,) fill one with grated nutmeg,
+another with powdered mace, and the third with powdered cloves; and pat
+them, into the jar that the spice may flavour the liquor without mixing
+with it. Leave the jar uncorked for a few days; reserving some of the
+liquor to replace that which may flow over in the fermentation.
+Whenever it has done working, bottle it off, but do not use it for six
+months. If not sufficiently bright and clear, filter it through fine
+muslin, pinned round the bottom of a sieve, or through a white blotting
+paper fastened in the same manner.
+
+PEACH CORDIAL.
+
+Take the ripest and most juicy free-stone peaches you can procure. Cut
+them from the stones, and quarter them without paring. Crack the
+stones, and extract the kernels, which must be blanched and slightly
+pounded. Put the peaches into a large stone jar in layers, alternately
+with layers of the kernels, and of powdered loaf-sugar. When the jar is
+three parts full of the peaches, kernels, and sugar, fill it up with
+white brandy. Set the Jar in a large pan, and leave it uncovered for
+three or four days, in case of its fermenting and flowing over at the
+top. Fill up what is thus wasted with more brandy, and then close the
+jar tightly. Let it stand, five or six months; then filter it, and
+bottle it for use.
+
+Cherry, apricot, and plum cordial may be made in the above manner;
+adding always the kernels.
+
+ANNISEED CORDIAL.
+
+Melt a pound of loaf-sugar in two quarts of water. Mix it with two
+quarts of white brandy, and add a table-spoonful of oil of anniseed.
+Let it stand a week; then filter it through, white blotting paper, and
+bottle it for use.
+
+Clove or Cinnamon Cordial may be made in the same manner, by mixing
+sugar, water and brandy, and adding oil of cinnamon or oil of cloves.
+You may colour any of these cordials red by stirring in a little
+powdered cochineal that has been dissolved in a small quantity of
+brandy.
+
+ROSE BRANDY.
+
+Nearly fill a china or glass jar with freshly-gathered rose leaves, and
+pour in sufficient French white brandy to fill it quite up; and then
+cover it closely. Next day put the whole into a strainer, and having
+squeezed and pressed the rose leaves and drained off the liquid, throw
+away the leaves, put fresh ones into the jar, and return the brandy to
+it. Repeat this every day while roses are in season, (taking care to
+keep the jar well covered,) and you will find the liquid much better
+than rose water for flavouring cakes and puddings.
+
+LEMON BRANDY.
+
+When you use lemons for punch or lemonade, do not throw away the peels,
+but cut them in small pieces, and put them into a glass jar or bottle
+of brandy. You will find this brandy useful for many purposes.
+
+In the same way keep for use the kernels of peach and plum stones,
+pounding them slightly before you put them into the brandy.
+
+NOYAU.
+
+Blanch and break up a pound of shelled bitter almonds or peach kernels.
+Mix with them the grated rinds of three large lemons, half a pint of
+clarified honey that has been boiled and skimmed, and three pounds of
+the best double-refined loaf-sugar. Put these ingredients into a jar or
+demijohn; pour in four quarts of the best white brandy or proof spirit;
+stop the vessel, and let it stand three months, shaking it every day
+for the first month. Then filter it, dilute it with rose water to your
+taste, (you may allow a quart of rose water to each quart of the
+liquor,) and bottle it for use.
+
+This and any other cordial may be coloured red by mixing with it (after
+it is filtered) cochineal, powdered, dissolved in a little white
+brandy, and strained through fine muslin.
+
+RATAFIA.
+
+Pound in a mortar, and. mix together a pound of shelled bitter almonds,
+an ounce of nutmegs, a pound of fine loaf-sugar, and one grain
+(apothecaries’ weight) of ambergris. Infuse these ingredients for a
+week in a gallon of white brandy or proof spirit. Then filter it, and
+bottle it for use.
+
+CAPILLAIRE.
+
+Powder eight pounds of loaf-sugar, and wet it with three pints of water
+and three eggs well beaten with their shells. Stir the whole mass very
+hard, and boil it twice over, skimming it well. Then strain it, and
+stir in two wine glasses of orange flower water. Bottle it, and use it
+for a summer draught, mixed with a little lemon juice and water; or you
+may sweeten punch with it.
+
+ORGEAT.
+
+To make orgeat paste, blanch, mix together, and pound in a mortar till
+perfectly smooth, three quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds,
+and one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds; adding frequently
+a little orange flower or rose water, to keep them from oiling; and
+mixing with them, as you proceed, a pound of fine loaf-sugar that has
+been previously powdered by itself. When the whole is thoroughly
+incorporated to a stiff paste, put it into little pots and close them
+well. It will keep five or six months, and, when you wish to use it for
+a beverage, allow a piece of orgeat about the size of an egg to each
+half pint or tumbler of water. Having well stirred it, strain the
+mixture through a napkin.
+
+To make liquid orgeat for present use; blanch and pound in a mortar,
+with rose water, a quarter of a pound of sweet and an ounce and a half
+of bitter almonds. Then sweeten three pints of rich milk with half a
+pound of loaf-sugar, and stir the almonds gradually into it. Boil it
+over hot coals; and as soon as it comes to a boil, take it off and stir
+it frequently till it gets cold. Then strain it, add a glass of brandy,
+and put it into decanters. When you pour it out for drinking dilute it
+with water.
+
+LEMONADE.
+
+Take fine ripe lemons, and roll them under your hand on the table to
+increase the quantity of juice. Then cut and squeeze them into a
+pitcher, and mix the juice with loaf-sugar and cold water. To half a
+pint of lemon juice you may allow a pint and a half of water; and ten
+or twelve moderate sized lumps of sugar. Send it round in little
+glasses with handles.
+
+To make a tumbler of _very good_ lemonade, allow the juice of one lemon
+and four or five lumps of sugar, filling up the glass with water. In
+summer use ice water.
+
+ORANGEADE.
+
+Is made of oranges, in the same proportion as lemonade. It is very fine
+when frozen.
+
+PUNCH.
+
+Roll twelve fine lemons under your hand on the table; then pare off the
+yellow rind very thin, and boil it in a gallon of water till all the
+flavour is drawn out. Break up into a large bowl, two pounds of
+loaf-sugar, and squeeze the lemons over it. When the water has boiled
+sufficiently, strain it from the lemon-peel, and mix it with the lemon
+juice and sugar. Stir in a quart of rum or of the best whiskey.
+
+Two scruples of flowers of benjamin, steeped in a quart of rum, will
+make an infusion which much resembles the arrack of the East Indies. It
+should be kept in a bottle, and a little of it will be found to impart
+a very fine and fragrant flavour to punch made in the usual manner.
+
+FROZEN PUNCH.
+
+Is made as above, omitting one half of the rum or whiskey. Put it into
+an ice-cream freezer, shaking or stirring it all the time, when it is
+frozen, send it round immediately, in small glasses with a tea-spoon
+for each.
+
+ROMAN PUNCH.
+
+Grate the yellow rinds of twelve lemons and two oranges upon two pounds
+of loaf-sugar. Squeeze on the juice of the lemons and oranges; cover
+it, and let it stand till next day. Then strain it through a sieve, add
+a bottle of champagne, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a froth.
+You may freeze it or not.
+
+MILK PUNCH.
+
+What is commonly called milk punch, is a mixture of brandy or rum,
+sugar, milk and nutmeg, with-without either lemon juice or water. It is
+taken cold with a lump of ice in each tumbler.
+
+FINE MILK PUNCH.
+
+Pare off the yellow rind of nine large lemons, and steep it for
+twenty-four hours in a quart of brandy or rum. Then mix with it the
+juice of the lemons, a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, two grated
+nutmegs, and a quart of water. Add a quart of rich unskimmed milk, made
+boiling hot, and strain the whole through a jelly-bag. You may either
+use it as soon as it is cold, or make a larger quantity, (in the above
+proportions,) and bottle it. It will keep several months.
+
+REGENT’S PUNCH.
+
+Take four large lemons; roll them on the table to make them more juicy,
+and then pare them as thin as possible. Cut out all the pulp, and throw
+away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put the yellow rind and
+the pulp into a pint of boiling water with two tea-spoonfuls of raw
+green tea of the best sort. Let all boil together about ten minutes.
+Then strain it through linen, and stir in a pound of powdered
+loaf-sugar and a bottle of champagne, or of any liquor suitable for
+punch. Set it again over the fire, and when just ready to boil, remove
+it, and pour it into a china bowl or pitcher, to be sent round in
+glasses.
+
+WINE JELLY.
+
+Clarify a pound of loaf-sugar, by mixing it with half a pint of water
+and the beaten white of an egg, and then boiling and skimming it. Put
+an ounce of isinglass (with as much boiling water as will cover it)
+into a small sauce-pan, and set it in hot coals till the isinglass is
+thoroughly dissolved. Then when the syrup has been taken from the fire,
+mix the melted isinglass with it, add a quart of white wine and stir in
+a table-spoonful or a spoonful and a half of old Jamaica spirits. Stir
+the mixture very hard, and pour it into a mould. When it has congealed,
+wrap a cloth dipped in warm water round the outside of the mould; turn
+out the jelly, and eat it with ice-cream.
+
+BISHOP.
+
+The day before you want to use the liquor toast four large oranges till
+they are of a pale brown. You may do them either before a clear fire or
+in the oven of a stove. Dissolve half a pound of loaf-sugar in half a
+pint of claret. When the oranges are roasted, quarter them without
+peeling, lay them in the bottom of a bowl or a tureen, add two beaten
+nutmegs and some cinnamon, and pour on them the wine and sugar. Cover
+it, and let it stand till next day. Then having heated the remainder of
+the bottle of claret till it nearly boils, pour it into a pitcher, and
+having first pressed and mashed the pieces of orange with a spoon to
+bring out the juice, put them with the sugar, &c. into a cloth, and
+strain the liquid into the hot claret. Serve it warm in large glasses.
+
+MULLED WINE.
+
+Boil together in a pint of water two beaten nutmegs, a handful of
+broken cinnamon, and a handful of cloves slightly pounded. When the
+liquid is reduced to one half, strain it into a quart of port wine,
+which must be set on hot coals, and taken off as soon as it comes to a
+boil. Serve it up hot in a pitcher with little glass cups round it, and
+a plate of fresh rusk.
+
+MULLED CIDER.
+
+Allow six eggs to a quart of cider. Put a handful of whole cloves into
+the cider, and boil it. While it is boiling, beat the eggs in a large
+pitcher; adding to them as much sugar as will make the cider very
+sweet. By the time the cider boils, the eggs will be sufficiently
+light. Pour the boiling liquor on the beaten egg, and continue to pour
+the mixture backwards and forwards from one pitcher to another, till it
+has a fine froth on it. Then pour it warm into your glasses, and grate
+some nutmeg over each.
+
+Port wine may be mulled in the same manner.
+
+EGG NOGG.
+
+Beat separately the yolks and whites of six eggs. Stir the yolks into a
+quart of rich milk, or thin cream, and add half a pound of sugar. Then
+mix in half a pint of rum or brandy. Flavour it with a grated nutmeg.
+Lastly, stir in gently the beaten white of an egg.
+
+It should be mixed in a china bowl.
+
+SANGAREE.
+
+Mix in a pitcher or in tumblers one-third of wine, ale, or porter, with
+two-thirds of water either warm or cold. Stir in sufficient loaf-sugar
+to sweeten it, and grate some nutmeg into it.
+
+By adding to it lemon juice, you may make what is called negus.
+
+
+TURKISH SHERBET.
+
+Having washed a fore-quarter or knuckle of veal, and cracked the bones,
+put it on to boil with two quarts and a pint of water. Let it boil till
+the liquid is reduced to one quart, and skim it well. Then strain it,
+and set it away to cool. When quite cold, mix with it a pint and a half
+of clear lemon juice, and a pint and a half of capillaire or clear
+sugar-syrup. If you have no capillaire ready, boil two pounds of
+loaf-sugar in a pint and a half of water, clearing it with the beaten
+white of an egg mixed into the sugar and water before boiling. Serve
+the sherbet cold or iced, in glass mugs at the dessert, or offer it as
+a refreshment at any other time.
+
+Sherbet may be made of the juice of various sorts of fruit.
+
+BOTTLED SMALL BEER.
+
+Take a quart bottle of the very best brisk porter, and mix it with four
+quarts of water, a pint of molasses, and a table-spoonful of ginger.
+Bottle it, and see that the corks are of the very best kind. It will be
+fit for use in three or four days.
+
+TO KEEP LEMON JUICE.
+
+Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar; put it into a bowl, and strain
+over it a pint of lemon juice; stirring it well with a silver spoon
+till the sugar has entirely melted. Then bottle it, sealing the corks;
+and keep it in a dry place.
+
+ESSENCE OF LEMON-PEEL.
+
+Rub lumps of loaf-sugar on fine ripe lemons till the yellow rind is all
+grated off; scraping up the sugar in a tea-spoon, and putting it on a
+plate as you proceed. When you have enough, press it down into a little
+glass or china jar, and cover it closely. This will be found very fine
+to flavour puddings and cakes.
+
+Prepare essence of orange-peel in the same manner.
+
+CIDER VINEGAR.
+
+Take six quarts of rye meal; stir and mix it well into a barrel of
+strong hard cider of the best kind; and then add a gallon of whiskey.
+Cover the cask, (leaving the bung loosely in it,) set it in the part of
+your yard that is most exposed to the sun and air; and in the course of
+four weeks (if the weather is warm and dry) you will have good vinegar
+fit for use. When you draw off a gallon or more, replenish the cask
+with the same quantity of cider, and add about a pint of whiskey. You
+may thus have vinegar constantly at hand for common purposes.
+
+The cask should have iron hoops.
+
+A very strong vinegar may be made by mixing cider and strained honey,
+(allowing a pound of honey to a gallon of cider,) and letting it stand
+five or six months. This vinegar is so powerful that for common
+purposes it should be diluted with a little water.
+
+Vinegar may be made in the same manner of sour wine.
+
+WHITE VINEGAR.
+
+Put into a cask a mixture composed of five gallons of water, two
+gallons of whiskey, and a quart of strong yeast, stirring in two pounds
+of powdered charcoal. Place it where it will ferment properly, leaving
+the bung loose till the fermentation is over, but covering the hole
+slightly to keep out the dust and insects. At the end of four months
+draw it off, and you will have a fine vinegar, as clear and colourless
+as water.
+
+SUGAR VINEGAR.
+
+To every gallon of water allow a pound of the best brown sugar, and a
+jill or more of strong yeast. Mix the sugar and water together, and
+boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it into a tub;
+and when it cools to lukewarm heat, put into it the yeast spread on
+pieces of toast. Let it work two days; then put it into an iron-hooped
+cask, and set it in a sunny place for five months, leaving the bung
+loose, but keeping the bung-hole covered. In five months it will be
+good clear vinegar, and you may bottle it for use.
+
+A cask that has not contained vinegar before, should have a quart of
+boiling hot vinegar poured into it, shaken about frequently till cold,
+and allowed to stand some hours.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK.
+
+
+CHICKEN JELLY.
+
+Take a large chicken, cut it up into very small pieces, bruise the
+bones, and put the whole into a stone jar with a cover that will make
+it water tight. Set the jar in a large kettle of boiling water, and
+keep it boiling for three hours. Then strain off the liquid, and season
+it slightly with salt, pepper, and mace; or with loaf-sugar and lemon
+juice, according to the taste of the person for whom it is intended.
+
+Return the fragments of the chicken to the jar, and set it again in a
+kettle of boiling water. You will find that you can collect nearly as
+much jelly by the second boiling.
+
+This jelly may be made of an old fowl.
+
+BREAD JELLY.
+
+Measure a quart of boiling water, and set it away to get cold. Take
+one-third of a six cent loaf of bread, slice it, pare off the crust,
+and toast the crumb nicely of a light brown. Then put it into the
+boiled water, set it on hot coals in a covered pan, and boil it gently,
+till you find by putting some in a spoon to cool, that the liquid has
+become a jelly. Strain it through a thin cloth, and set it away for
+use. When it is to be taken, warm a tea-cupful, sweeten it with sugar,
+and add a little grated lemon-peel.
+
+ARROW ROOT JELLY.
+
+Mix three table-spoonfuls of arrow root powder in a tea-cup of water
+till quite smooth, cover it, and let it stand a quarter of an hour. Put
+the yellow peel of a lemon into a skillet with a pint of water, and let
+it boil till reduced to one half. Then take out the lemon-peel, and
+pour in the dissolved arrow root, (while the water is still boiling;)
+add sufficient white sugar to sweeten it well, and let it boil together
+for five or six minutes. It may be seasoned (if thought necessary) with
+two tea-spoonfuls of wine, and some grated nutmeg.
+
+It may be boiled in milk instead of water, or in wine and water,
+according to the state of the person for whom it is wanted.
+
+RICE JELLY.
+
+Having picked and washed a quarter of a pound of rice, mix it with half
+a pound of loaf-sugar, and just sufficient water to cover it. Boil it
+till it becomes a glutinous mass; then strain it; season it with
+whatever may be thought proper; and let it stand to cool.
+
+PORT WINE JELLY.
+
+Melt in a little warm water an ounce of isinglass; stir it into a pint
+of port wine, adding two ounces of sugar candy, an ounce of gum arabic,
+and half a nutmeg grated. Mix all well, and boil it ten minutes; or
+till every thing is thoroughly dissolved. Then strain it through
+muslin, and set it away to get cold.
+
+SAGO.
+
+Wash the sago through two or three water, and then let it soak for two
+or three hours. To a tea-cupful of sago allow a quart of water and some
+of the yellow peel of a lemon. Simmer it till all the grains look
+transparent. Then add as much wine and nutmeg as may be proper, and
+give it another boil altogether. If seasoning is not advisable, the
+sago may be boiled in milk instead of water, and eaten plain.
+
+TAPIOCA.
+
+Wash the tapioca well, and let it steep for five or six hours, changing
+the water three times. Simmer it in the last water till quite clear,
+then season it with sugar and wine, or lemon juice.
+
+GRUEL.
+
+Allow three large table-spoonfuls of oatmeal or Indian meal to a quart
+of water. Put the meal into a large bowl, and add the water, a little
+at a time, mixing and bruising the meal with the back of a spoon. As
+you proceed, pour off the liquid into another bowl, every time, before
+adding fresh water to the meal, till you have used it all up. Then boil
+the mixture for twenty minutes, stirring it all the while; add a little
+salt. Then strain the gruel and sweeten it. A piece of butter may be
+stirred into it; and, if thought proper, a little wine and nutmeg. It
+should be taken warm.
+
+OATMEAL GRUEL.
+
+Put four table-spoonfuls of the best grits (oatmeal coarsely ground)
+into a pint of boiling water. Let it boil gently, and stir it often,
+till it becomes as thick as you wish it. Then strain it, and add to it
+while warm, butter, wine, nutmeg, or whatever is thought proper to
+flavour it.
+
+If you make the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to a thick
+batter with a little cold water, and then put it into the sauce-pan of
+boiling water. Stir it all the time it is boiling, lifting the spoon
+gently up and down, and letting the gruel fall slowly back again into
+the pan.
+
+PANADA.
+
+Having pared off the crust, boil some slices of bread in a quart of
+water for about five minutes. Then take out the bread, and beat it
+smooth in a deep dish, mixing in a little of the water it has boiled
+in; and mix it with a bit of fresh butter, and sugar and nutmeg to your
+taste. Another way is to grate some bread, or to grate or pound a few
+crackers. Pour on boiling water, beat it well, and add sugar and
+nutmeg.
+
+BARLEY WATER.
+
+Wash clean some barley, (either pearl or common) and to two ounces of
+barley allow a quart of water. Put it into a sauce-pan, adding, if you
+choose, an equal quantity of stoned raisins; or some lemon-peel and
+sugar; or some liquorice root cut up. Let it boil slowly till the
+liquid is reduced one half. Then strain it off, and sweeten it.
+
+GROUND RICE MILK.
+
+Mix in a bowl two table-spoonfuls of ground rice, with sufficient milk
+to make a thin batter. Then stir it gradually into a pint of milk and
+boil it with sugar, lemon-peel or nutmeg.
+
+BEEF TEA.
+
+Cut a pound of the lean of fresh juicy beef into small thin slices, and
+sprinkle them with a very little salt. Put the meat into a wide-mouthed
+glass or stone jar closely corked, and set it in a kettle or pan of
+water, which must be made to boil, and kept boiling hard round the jar
+for an hour or more. Then take out the jar and strain the essence of
+the beef into a bowl. Chicken tea may be made in the same manner.
+
+MUTTON BROTH.
+
+Cut off all the fat from a loin of mutton, and to each pound of the
+lean allow a quart of water. Season it with a little salt and some
+shred parsley, and put in some large pieces of the crust of bread. Boil
+it slowly for two or three hours, skimming it carefully.
+
+Beef, veal, or chicken broth may be made in the same manner.
+
+Vegetables may be added if approved. Also barley or rice.
+
+MUTTON BROTH MADE QUICKLY.
+
+Cut three chops from the best part of a neck of mutton, and remove the
+fat and skin. Beat the meat on both sides and slice it thin. Put into a
+small sauce-pan with a pint of water, a little salt, and some crust of
+bread cut into pieces. You may add a little parsley, and a small onion
+sliced thin. Cover the sauce-pan, and set it over the fire. Boil it
+fast, skim it, and in half an hour it should be ready for use.
+
+WINE WHEY.
+
+Boil a pint of milk; and when it rises to the top of the sauce-pan,
+pour in a large glass of sherry or Madeira. It will be the better for
+adding a glass of currant wine also. Let it again boil up, and then
+take the sauce-pan off the fire, and set it aside to stand for a few
+minutes, but do not stir it. Then remove the curd, (if it has
+completely formed,) and pour the clear whey into a bowl and sweeten it.
+
+When wine is considered too heating, the whey may be made by turning
+the milk with lemon juice.
+
+RENNET WHEY.
+
+Wash a small bit of rennet about two inches square, in cold water, to
+get off the salt. Put it into a tea-cup and pour on it sufficient
+lukewarm water to cover it. Let it stand all night, and in the morning
+stir the rennet water into a quart pitcher of warm milk. Cover it, and
+set it near the fire till a firm curd is formed. Pour off the whey from
+it, and it will be found an excellent and cooling drink. The curd may
+be eaten (though not by a sick person) with wine, sugar, and nutmeg.
+
+CALF’S FEET BROTH.
+
+Boil two calf’s feet in two quarts of water, till the liquid is reduced
+one half, and the meat has dropped to pieces. Then strain it into a
+deep dish or pan, and set it by to get cold. When it has congealed,
+take all the fat carefully off; put a tea-cupful of the jelly into a
+sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. When it has nearly boiled, stir in
+by degrees the beaten yolk of an egg, and then take it off immediately.
+You may add to it a little sugar, and some grated lemon-peel and
+nutmeg.
+
+CHICKEN BROTH AND PANADA.
+
+Cut up a chicken, season it with a very little salt, and put it into
+three quarts of water. Let it simmer slowly till the flesh drops to
+pieces. You may make chicken panada or gruel of the same fowl, by
+taking out the white meat as soon as it is tender, mincing it fine, and
+then pounding it in a mortar, adding as you pound it, sufficient of the
+chicken water to moisten the paste. You may thin it with water till it
+becomes liquid enough to drink. Then put it into a sauce-pan and boil
+it gently a few minutes. Taken in small quantities, it will be found
+very nutritious. You may add to it a little grated lemon-peel and
+nutmeg.
+
+VEGETABLE SOUP.
+
+Take a white onion, a turnip, a pared potato, and a head of celery, or
+a large tea-spoonful of celery seed. Put the vegetables whole into a
+quart of water, (adding a little salt,) and boil it slowly till reduced
+to a pint. Make a slice of nice toast; lay it in the bottom of a bowl,
+and strain the soup over it.
+
+ONION SOUP.
+
+Put half a pound of the best fresh butter into a stew-pan on the fire,
+and let it boil till it has done making a noise; then have ready twelve
+large onions peeled and cut small; throw them into the butter, add a
+little salt, and stew them a quarter of an hour. Then dredge in a
+little flour, and stir the whole very hard; and in five minutes pour in
+a quart of boiling water, and some of the upper crust of bread, cut
+small. Let the soup boil ten minutes longer, stirring it often; and
+after you take it from the fire, stir in the yolks of two beaten eggs,
+and serve it up immediately,
+
+In France this soup is considered a fine restorative after any unusual
+fatigue. Instead of butter, the onions may be boiled in veal or chicken
+broth.
+
+TOAST AND WATER.
+
+Toast some slices of bread very nicely, without allowing them to burn
+or blacken. Then put them into a pitcher, and fill it up with boiling
+water. Let it stand till it is quite cold; then strain it, and put it
+into a decanter. Another way of preparing toast and water is to put the
+toasted bread into a mug and pour cold water on it. Cover it closely,
+and let it infuse for at least an hour. Drink it cold.
+
+APPLE WATER.
+
+Pare and slice a fine juicy apple; pour boiling water over it, cover
+it, and let it stand till cold.
+
+TAMARIND WATER.
+
+Put tamarinds into a pitcher or tumbler till it is one-third full; then
+fill it up with cold water, cover it, and let it infuse for a quarter
+of an hour or more.
+
+Currant jelly or cranberry juice mixed with water makes a pleasant
+drink for an invalid.
+
+MOLASSES POSSETS.
+
+Put into a sauce-pan a pint of the best West India molasses; a
+tea-spoonful of powdered white ginger; and a quarter of a pound of
+fresh butter. Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly for half an
+hour; stirring it frequently. Do not let it come to a boil. Then stir
+in the juice of two lemons, or two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; cover
+the pan, and let it stand by the fire five minutes longer. This is good
+for a cold. Some of it may be taken warm at once, and the remainder
+kept at hand for occasional use.
+
+It is the preparation absurdly called by the common people a stewed
+quaker.
+
+Half a pint of strained honey mixed cold with the juice of a lemon, and
+a table-spoonful of sweet oil, is another remedy for a cold; a
+tea-spoonful or two to be taken whenever the cough is troublesome.
+
+FLAX-SEED LEMONADE.
+
+To a large table-spoonful of flax-seed allow a tumbler and a half of
+cold water. Boil them together till the liquid becomes very sticky.
+Then strain it hot over a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar candy,
+and an ounce of pulverized gum arabic. Stir it till quite dissolved,
+and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon.
+
+This mixture has frequently been found an efficacious remedy for a
+cold; taking a wine-glass of it as often as the cough is troublesome.
+
+COCOA.
+
+Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of good cocoa (the chocolate nut before
+it is ground) and one quart of water. Cover it, and as soon as it has
+come to a boil, set it on coals by the side of the fire, to simmer for
+an hour or more. Take it hot with dry toast.
+
+COCOA SHELLS.
+
+These can be procured at the principal grocers and confectioners, or at
+a chocolate manufactory. They are the thin shells that envelope the
+chocolate kernel, and are sold at a low price; a pound contains a very
+large quantity. Soak them in water for five or six hours or more, (it
+will be better to soak them all night,) and then boil them in the same
+water. They should boil two hours. Strain the liquid when done, and let
+it be taken warm.
+
+RAW EGG.
+
+Break a fresh egg into a saucer, and mix a little sugar with it; also,
+if approved, a small quantity of wine. Beat the whole to a strong
+froth. It is considered a restorative.
+
+SODA WATER.
+
+To forty grains of carbonate of soda, add thirty grains of tartaric
+acid in small crystals. Fill a soda bottle with spring water, put in
+the mixture, and cork it instantly with a well-fitting cork.
+
+SEIDLITZ POWDERS.
+
+Fold in a white paper one drachm of Rochelle salts. In a blue paper a
+mixture of twenty grains of tartaric acid, and twenty-five grains of
+carbonate of soda. They should all be pulverized very fine. Put the
+contents of the white paper into a tumbler not quite half full of cold
+water, and stir it till dissolved. Then put the mixture from the blue
+paper into another tumbler with the same quantity of water, and stir
+that also. When the powders are dissolved in both tumblers, pour the
+first into the other, and it will effervesce immediately. Drink it
+quickly while foaming.
+
+BITTERS.
+
+Take two ounces of gentian root, an ounce of Virginia snake root, an
+ounce of the yellow paring of orange peel, and half a drachm of
+cochineal. Steep these ingredients, for a week or more, in a quart of
+Madeira or sherry wine, or brandy. When they are thoroughly infused,
+strain and filter the liquor, and bottle it for use. This is considered
+a good tonic, taken in a small cordial glass about noon.
+
+ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT.
+
+Mix an ounce of oil of peppermint with a pint of alcohol. Then colour
+it by putting in some leaves of green mint. Let it stand till the
+colour is a fine green; then filter it through blotting paper. Drop it
+on sugar when you take it.
+
+Essence of pennyroyal, mint, cinnamon, cloves, &c. may all be prepared
+in the same manner by mixing a portion of the essential oil with a
+little alcohol.
+
+You may obtain liquid camphor by breaking up and dissolving a lump in
+white brandy or spirit of wine.
+
+LAVENDER COMPOUND.
+
+Fill a quart bottle with lavender blossoms freshly gathered, and put in
+loosely; then pour in as much of the best brandy as it will contain.
+Let it stand a fortnight, and then strain it. Afterwards, mix with it
+of powdered cloves, mace, nutmeg and cochineal, a quarter of an ounce
+of each; and cork it up for use in small bottles. When taken, a little
+should be dropped on a lump of sugar.
+
+LEAD WATER.
+
+Mix two table-spoonfuls of extract of lead with a bottle of rain or
+river water. Then add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and shake it well.
+
+[Footnote: These remedies are all very simple; but the author _knows_
+them to have been efficacious whenever tried.]
+
+REMEDY FOR A BURN.
+
+After immediately applying sweet oil, scrape the inside of a raw
+potato, and lay some of it on the place, securing it with a rag. In a
+short time put on fresh potato, and repeat this application very
+frequently. It will give immediate ease, and draw out the fire. Of
+course, if the burn is bad, it is best to send for a physician.
+
+FOR CHILBLAINS.
+
+Dip the feet every night and morning in cold water, withdrawing them in
+a minute or two, and drying them by rubbing them very hard with a
+coarse towel. To put them immediately into a pail of brine brought from
+a pickle tub is another excellent remedy when feet are found to be
+frosted.
+
+FOR CORNS.
+
+Mix together a little Indian meal and cold water, till it is about the
+consistence of thick mush. Then bind it on the corn by wrapping a small
+slip of thin rag round the toe. It will not prevent you from wearing
+your shoe and stocking. In two or three hours take it off, and you will
+find the corn much softened. Cut off as much of it as is soft with a
+penknife or scissors. Then put on a fresh poultice, and repeat it till
+the corn is entirely levelled, as it will be after a few regular
+applications of the remedy; which will be found successful whenever the
+corn returns. There is no permanent cure for them.
+
+WARTS.
+
+To remove the hard callous horny warts which sometimes appear on the
+hands of children, touch the wart carefully with a new pen dipped
+slightly in aqua-fortis. It will give no pain; and after repeating it a
+few times, the wart will be found so loose as to come off by rubbing it
+with the finger.
+
+RING-WORMS.
+
+Rub mercurial ointment on the ring-worm previous to going to bed, and
+do not wash it off till morning. It will effect a cure if persevered
+in; sometimes in less than a week.
+
+MUSQUITO BITES.
+
+Salt wetted into a sort of paste, with a little vinegar, and plastered
+on the bite, will immediately allay the pain; and if not rubbed, no
+mark will be seen next day. It is well to keep salt and vinegar always
+in a chamber that is infested with musquitoes. It is also good for the
+sting of a wasp or bee; and for the bite of any venomous animal, if
+applied immediately. It should be left on till it becomes dry, and then
+renewed.
+
+ANTIDOTE FOR LAUDANUM.
+
+When so large a quantity of laudanum has been swallowed as to produce
+dangerous effects, the fatal drowsiness has been prevented when all
+other remedies have failed, by administering a cup of the strongest
+possible coffee. The patient has revived and recovered, and no ill
+effects have followed.
+
+GREEN OINTMENT.
+
+Take two or three large handfuls of the fresh-gathered leaves of the
+Jamestown weed, (called Apple Peru in New England,) and pound it in a
+mortar till you have extracted the juice. Then put the juice into a tin
+sauce-pan, mixed with sufficient lard to make a thick salve. Stew them
+together ten or fifteen minutes, and then pour the mixture into
+gallipots and cover it closely. It is excellent to rub on chilblains,
+and other inflammatory external swellings, applying it several times a
+day.
+
+TO STOP BLOOD.
+
+For a prick with a pin, or a slight cut, nothing will more effectually
+stop the bleeding than old cobwebs compressed into a lump and applied
+to the wound, or bound on it with a rag. A scrap of cotton wadding is
+also good for stopping blood.
+
+
+
+
+PERFUMERY, ETC.
+
+
+COLOGNE WATER.
+
+Procure at a druggists, one drachm of oil of lavender, the same
+quantity of oil of lemon, of oil of rosemary, and of oil of cinnamon;
+with two drachms of oil of bergamot, all mixed in the same phial, which
+should be a new one. Shake the oils well, and pour them into a pint of
+spirits of wine. Cork the bottle tightly, shake it hard, and it will be
+fit for immediate use; though it improves by keeping. You may add to
+the oils, if you choose, ten drops of the tincture of musk, or ten
+drops of extract of ambergris.
+
+For very fine cologne water, mix together in a new phial oil of lemon,
+two drachms; oil of bergamot, two drachms; oil of lavender, two
+drachms; oil of cedrat, one drachm; tincture of benzoin, three drachms;
+neroli, ten drops; ambergris, ten drops; attar of roses, two drops.
+Pour the mixture into a pint of spirits of wine; cork and shake the
+bottle, and set it away for use.
+
+Another receipt for cologne water is to mix with a pint of alcohol,
+sixty drops or two large tea-spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and the
+same quantity of the essential oils of lemon, lavender, and bergamot.
+
+LAVENDER WATER.
+
+Mix two ounces of essential oil of lavender, and two drachms of essence
+of ambergris, with a pint of spirits of wine; cork the bottle, and
+shake it hard every day for a fortnight.
+
+HUNGARY WATER.
+
+Mix together one ounce of oil of rosemary and two drachms of essence of
+ambergris; add them to a pint of spirits of wine. Shake it daily for a
+month, and then transfer it to small bottles.
+
+ROSE VINEGAR.
+
+Fill a stone or china jar with fresh rose leaves put in loosely. Then
+pour on them as much of the best white wine vinegar as the jar will
+hold. Cover it, and set it in the sun, or in some other warm place for
+three weeks. Then strain it through a flannel bag, and bottle it for
+use, This vinegar will he found very fine for salads, or for any nice
+purposes.
+
+THIEVES’ VINEGAR.
+
+Take a large handful of lavender blossoms, and the same quantity of
+sage, mint, rue, wormwood and rosemary. Chop and mix them well. Put
+them into a jar, with half an ounce of camphor that has been dissolved
+in a little alcohol, and pour in three quarts of strong clear vinegar.
+Keep the jar for two or three weeks in the hot sun, and at night plunge
+it into a box of heated sand. Afterwards strain and bottle the liquid,
+putting into each bottle a clove of garlic sliced. To have it very
+clear, after it has been bottled for a week, you should pour it off
+carefully from the sediment, and filter it through blotting paper. Then
+wash the bottles, and return the vinegar to them. It should be kept
+very tightly corked. It is used for sprinkling about in sick-rooms; and
+also in close damp oppressive weather. Inhaling the odour from a small
+bottle will frequently prevent faintness in a crowd.
+
+It is best to make it in June.
+
+This vinegar is so called from an old tradition, that during the
+prevalence of the plague in London the composition was invented by four
+thieves, who found it a preservative from contagion; and were by that
+means enabled to remain in the city and exercise their profession to
+great advantage, after most of the inhabitants had fled.
+
+OIL OF FLOWERS.
+
+A French process for obtaining essential oils from flowers or herbs has
+been described as follows:—Take carded cotton, or split wadding and
+steep it in some pure Florence oil, such as is quite clear and has no
+smell. Then place a layer of this cotton in the bottom of a deep china
+dish, or in an earthen pipkin. Cover it with a thick layer of fresh
+rose leaves, or the leaves of sweet pink, jasmine, wall-flower,
+tuberose, magnolia blossoms, or any other odoriferous flower or plant
+from which you wish to obtain the perfume. Spread over the
+flower-leaves another layer of cotton that has been steeped in oil.
+Afterwards a second layer of flowers, and repeat them alternately till
+the vessel is quite full. Cover it closely, and let it stand in the sun
+for a week. Then throw away the flower-leaves, carefully press out the
+oil from the cotton, and put it into a small bottle for use. The oil
+will be found to have imbibed the odour of the flowers.
+
+Keep the scented cotton to perfume your clothes-presses.
+
+BALM OF GILEAD OIL.
+
+Put loosely into a bottle as many balm of Gilead flowers as will come
+up to a third part of its height; then nearly fill up the bottle with
+sweet oil, which should be of the best quality. Let it infuse (shaking
+it occasionally) for several days, and it will then be fit for use. It
+is considered a good remedy for bruises of the skin; also for cuts,
+burns, and scalds that are not very bad, and should be applied
+immediately,—by wetting a soft rag with it; renewing it frequently,
+
+LIP SALVE.
+
+Put into a wide-mouthed bottle four ounces of the best olive oil, with
+one ounce of the small parts of alkanet root. Stop up the bottle, and
+set it in the sun, (shaking it often,) till you find the liquid of a
+beautiful crimson. Then strain off the oil very clear from the alkanet
+root, put it into an earthen pipkin, and add to it an ounce of white
+wax, and an ounce and a half of the best mutton suet, which has been
+previously clarified, or boiled and skimmed. Set the mixture on the
+embers of coals, and melt it slowly: stirring it well. After it has
+simmered slowly far a little while, take it off; and while still hot,
+mix with it a few drops of oil of roses, or of oil of neroli, or
+tincture of musk.
+
+COLD CREAM.
+
+Cut very fine a drachm of white wax and a drachm of spermaceti. Put it
+into a small sauce-pan with one ounce of oil of sweet almonds, and mix
+them well together. Set it on hot coals, and as soon as it has boiled
+take it off, and stir in an ounce of orange-flower or rose-water. Beat
+it very hard, and then put it into gallipots.
+
+SOFT POMATUM.
+
+Soak half a pound of fresh lard and a quarter of a pound of beef marrow
+in water for two or three days; squeezing and pressing it every day,
+and changing the water. Afterwards drain off the water, and put the
+lard and marrow into a sieve to dry. Then transfer it to a jar, and set
+the jar into a pot of boiling water. When the mixture is melted, put it
+into a basin, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy. Then drain off
+the brandy, perfume the pomatum by mixing with it any scented essence
+that you please, and tie it up in gallipots.
+
+COSMETIC PASTE.
+
+Take a quarter of a pound of Castile soap, and cut it into small
+pieces. Then, put it into a tin or porcelain sauce-pan, with just water
+enough to moisten it well, and set it on hot coals. Let it simmer till
+it is entirely dissolved; stirring it till it becomes a smooth paste,
+and thickening it with Indian meal, (which even in a raw state is
+excellent for the hands.) Then take it from the fire, and when cool
+scent it with rose-water, or with any fragrant essence you please. Beat
+and stir it hard with a silver spoon, and when it is thoroughly mixed
+put it into little pots with covers.
+
+ACID SALT.
+
+This is the composition commonly, but erroneously called salt of lemon,
+and is excellent for removing ink and other stains from the hands, and
+for taking ink spots out of white clothes. Pound together in a marble
+mortar an ounce of salt of sorrel, and an ounce of the best cream of
+tartar, mixing them thoroughly. Then, put it in little wooden boxes or
+covered gallipots, and rub it on your hands when they are stained,
+washing them in cold water, and using the acid salt instead of soap; a
+very small quantity will immediately remove the stain. In applying it
+to linen or muslin that is spotted with ink or fruit juice, hold the
+stained part tightly stretched over a cup or bowl of boiling water.
+Then with your finger rub on the acid salt till the stain disappears.
+It must always be done before the article is washed.
+
+This mixture costs about twenty-five cents, and the above quantity (if
+kept dry) will be sufficient for a year or more.
+
+Ink stains may frequently be taken out of white clothes by rubbing on
+(before they go to the wash) some bits of cold tallow picked from the
+bottom of a mould candle; Leave the tallow sticking on in a lump, and
+when the article comes from the wash, it will generally be found that
+the spot has disappeared. This experiment is so easy and so generally
+successful that it is always worth trying. When it fails, it is in
+consequence of some peculiarity in the composition of the ink.
+
+SWEET JARS.
+
+Take a china jar, and put into it three handfuls of fresh damask
+rose-leaves; three of sweet pinks, three of wall-flowers, and stock
+gilly-flowers, and equal proportions of any other fragrant flowers that
+you can procure. Place them in layers; strewing fine salt thickly
+between each layer, and mixing with them an ounce of sliced orris root.
+
+You may fill another jar with equal quantities of lavender, knotted
+marjoram, rosemary, lemon thyme, balm of Gilead, lemon-peel, and
+smaller quantities of laurel leaves and mint; and some sliced orris
+root. You may mix with the herbs, (which must all be chopped,) cloves,
+cinnamon, and sliced nutmeg; strewing salt between the layers.
+
+Flowers, herbs, and spice may all be mixed in the same jar; adding
+always some orris root. Every thing that is put in should be perfectly
+free from damp.
+
+The jar should be kept closely covered, except when the cover is
+occasionally removed for the purpose of diffusing the scent through the
+room.
+
+SCENTED BAGS.
+
+Take a quarter of a pound of coriander seeds, a quarter of a pound of
+orris root, a quarter of a pound of aromatic calamus, a quarter of a
+pound of damask rose leaves, two ounces of lavender blossoms, half an
+ounce of mace, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of
+cloves, and two drachms of musk-powder. Beat them all separately in a
+mortar, and then mix them well together. Make small silk or satin bags;
+fill each with a portion of the mixture, and sew them closely all
+round. Lay them among your clothes in the drawers.
+
+VIOLET PERFUME.
+
+Drop twelve drops of genuine oil of rhodium on a lump of loaf-sugar.
+Then pound the sugar in a marble mortar with two ounces of orris root
+powder. This will afford an excellent imitation of the scent of
+violets. If you add more oil of rhodium, it will produce a rose
+perfume. Sew up the powder in little silk bags, or keep it in a tight
+box.
+
+DURABLE INK.
+
+Take, when empty, one of the little bottles that has contained
+indelible ink, such as is sold in cases, and wash and rinse it clean.
+Put into it half an inch of lunar caustic; fill it up with good
+vinegar, and cork it tightly. This is the marking ink.
+
+Prepare the larger bottle that has contained the liquid used for the
+first wash, by making it quite clean. Take a large tea-spoonful of salt
+of tartar, and a lump of gum arabic the size of a hickory nut. Put them
+into the wash bottle, and fill it up with clear rain water, Cork both
+bottles tightly, and set them for two days in the sun. The liquids will
+then be fit for use.
+
+Linen cannot be marked well with durable ink unless the weather is
+clear and dry. Dip a camel’s hair pencil in the large bottle that
+contains the gum liquid, and wash over with it a small space on a
+corner of the linen, about large enough to contain the name. Dry it in
+the sun, and let it alone till next day. Then take a very good pen,
+acid with the ink from the smallest bottle, write the name you intend,
+on the place that has been prepared by the first liquid. This also must
+be dried in the sun. See that the bottles are always well corked, and
+keep them in a covered box.
+
+After the linen is dried, iron it before you write on it.
+
+ANOTHER DURABLE INK.
+
+For the marking liquid—rub together in a small mortar five scruples of
+lunar caustic with one drachm of gum arabic, one scruple of sap-green
+and one ounce of rain water.
+
+For wetting the linen—mix together one ounce of salt of soda, two
+ounces of boiling water, and a table-spoonful of powdered gum arabic.
+
+TO KEEP PEARL-ASH.
+
+Take three ounces of pearl-ash, and put it into a clean black bottle
+with a pint and a half (not more) of soft water. The proportion is an
+ounce of pearl-ash to half a pint of water. Cork it very tightly, shake
+it, and it will be fit for use as soon as all the pearl-ash is
+dissolved. A table-spoonful of this liquid is equal to a small
+tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in the lump or powder. Keeping it ready
+dissolved will be found very convenient.
+
+ALMOND PASTE.
+
+Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet, almonds, and a quarter of a pound
+of bitter ones, and beat them in a mortar to a smooth paste—adding by
+degrees a jill of rose or orange-flower water. Then beat in, gradually,
+half a pound of clear strained honey. When the whole is well
+incorporated, put it into gallipots, pouring on the top of each some
+orange-flower or rose-water. Keep it closely covered. This is a
+celebrated cosmetic for the hands.
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
+
+
+MINCED OYSTERS.
+
+Take fifty fine large oysters, and mince them raw. Chop also four or
+five small pickled cucumbers, and a bunch of parsley. Grate about two
+tea-cupfuls of stale bread-crumbs, and beat up the yolks of four eggs.
+Mix the whole together in a thick batter, seasoning it with cayenne and
+powdered mace; and with a little salt if the oysters are fresh. Have
+ready a pound of lard, and melt in the frying-pan enough of it to fry
+the oysters well. If the lard is in too small a quantity they will be
+flat and tough. When the lard is boiling hot in the pan, put in about a
+table-spoonful at a time of the oyster-mixture, and fry it in the form
+of small fritters; turning them so as to brown on both sides. Serve
+them up hot, and eat them with small bread rolls.
+
+STEWED BLACK FISH.
+
+Flour a deep dish, and lay in the bottom a piece of butter rolled in
+flour. Then sprinkle it with a mixture of parsley, sweet marjoram, and
+green onion; all chopped fine. Take your black fish and rub it inside
+and outside with a mixture of cayenne, salt, and powdered cloves and
+mace. Place skewers across the dish, and lay the fish upon them. Then
+pour in a little wine, and sufficient water to stew the fish. Set the
+dish in a moderate oven, and let it cook slowly for an hour.
+
+Shad or rock fish may be dressed in the same manner.
+
+FRIED SMELTS.
+
+These little fish are considered extremely fine. Before they are
+cooked, cut off the heads and tails. Sprinkle the smelts with flour,
+and have ready in a frying pan over the fire plenty of fresh lard or
+butter. When it boils, put in the fish and fry them.
+
+BROILED SWEET-BREADS.
+
+Split open and skewer the sweet-breads; season them with pepper and
+salt, and with powdered mace. Broil them on a gridiron till thoroughly
+done. While they are broiling, prepare some melted butter seasoned with
+mace and a little white wine, or mushroom catchup; and have ready some
+toast with the crust cut off. Lay the toast in the bottom of a dish;
+place the sweet-breads upon it, and pour over them the drawn butter.
+
+PICKLED EGGS.
+
+Boil twelve eggs quite hard, and lay them in cold water; having peeled
+off the shells. Then put them whole into a stone jar, with a quarter of
+an ounce of whole mace, and the same quantity of cloves; a sliced
+nutmeg; a table-spoonful of whole pepper; a small bit of ginger; and a
+peach leaf. Fill up the jar with boiling vinegar; cover it closely that
+the eggs may cool slowly. When they are cold, tie up the jar; covering
+the cork with leather. After it has stood three days pour off the
+pickle, boil it up again, and return it boiling hot to the eggs and
+spice. They will be fit for use in a fortnight.
+
+GUMBO SOUP.
+
+Take four pounds of the lean of a fresh round of beef and cut the meat
+into small pieces, avoiding carefully all the fat. Season the meat with
+a little pepper and salt, and put it on to boil with three quarts and a
+pint of water (not more.) Boil it slowly and skim it well. When no more
+scum rises, put in half a peck of ochras, peeled and sliced, and half a
+peck of tomatas cut in quarters. Boil it slowly till the ochras and
+tomatas are entirely dissolved, and the meat all to rags. Then strain
+it through a cullender, and send it to table with slices of dry toast.
+This soup cannot be made in less than seven or eight hours. If you dine
+at two, you must put on the meat to boil at six or seven in the
+morning. It should be as thick as a jelly.
+
+SHREWSBURY CAKES.
+
+Rub three quarters of a pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
+flour, and mix in half a pound of powdered sugar, and half a pound of
+currants, washed and dried. Wet it to a stiff paste with rich milk.
+Roll it out, and cut it into cakes. Lay them on buttered baking sheets,
+and put them into a moderate oven.
+
+RICE FLUMMERY.
+
+To two quarts of milk allow half a pound of ground rice. Take out one
+pint of the milk, and mix the rice gradually with it into a batter;
+making it quite smooth and free from lumps. Put the three pints of milk
+into a skillet, (with a bunch of peach leaves or a few peach-kernels.)
+and let it come to a boil. Then while it is still boiling, stir in by
+degrees the rice batter, taking care not to have it lumpy; add sugar,
+mace, and rose brandy to your taste; or you may flavour it with a small
+tea-spoonful of oil of lemon. When it has boiled sufficiently, and is
+quite thick, strain it, and put it into a mould to congeal. Make a rich
+boiled custard, (flavoured in the same manner,) and send it to table in
+a pitcher to eat with the flummery. Both should be cold. If you mould
+it in tea-cups, turn it out on a deep dish, and pour the custard round
+it.
+
+APPLE BUTTER WITHOUT CIDER.
+
+To ten gallons of water add six gallons of the best molasses, mixing
+them well together. Put it into a large kettle over a good fire; let it
+come to a hard boil, and skim it as long as any scum continues to rise.
+Then take out half the liquid, and put it into a tub. Have ready eight
+bushels of fine sound apples, pared, cored and quartered. Throw them
+gradually into the liquid that is still boiling on the fire. Let it
+continue to boil hard, and as it thickens, add by degrees the other
+half of the molasses and water, (that which has been put into the tub.)
+Stir it frequently to prevent its scorching, and to make it of equal
+consistence throughout. Boil it ten or twelve hours, continuing to stir
+it. At night take it out of the kettle, and set it in tubs to cool;
+covering it carefully. Wash out the kettle and wipe it very dry.
+
+Next morning boil the apple butter six or eight hours longer; it should
+boil eighteen hours altogether. Half an hour before you take it finally
+out, stir in a pound of mixed spice; cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and
+nutmeg, all finely powdered. When entirely done, put up the apple
+butter in stone or earthen jars. It will keep a year or more.
+
+It can, of course, be made in a smaller quantity than that given in the
+above receipt; and also at any time in the winter; fresh cider not
+being an ingredient, as in the most usual way of making apple butter.
+
+AN APPLE POT PIE.
+
+Make a paste, allowing a pound of butter, or of chopped suet to two
+pounds and a quarter of flour. Have ready a sufficient quantity of fine
+juicy acid apples, pared, cored, and sliced. Mix with them brown sugar
+enough to sweeten them, a few cloves, and some slips of lemon-peel.
+Butter the inside of an iron pot, and line it with some of the paste.
+Then put in the apples, interspersing them with thin squares of paste,
+and add a very little water. Cover the whole with a thick lid of the
+dough, which must be carefully closed round the edges. Pour on water
+enough to fill the pot, and let it boil two hours. When done, serve it
+up on a large dish, and eat it with butter and sugar.
+
+PUDDING CATCHUP.
+
+Mix together half a pint of noyau; a pint of sherry or other white
+wine; the yellow peel of four lemons, pared thin; and half an ounce of
+mace. Put the whole into a large bottle, and let it stand for two or
+three weeks. Then strain it, and add half a pint of capillaire or
+strong sugar syrup; or of Curaçoa. Bottle it, and it will keep two or
+three years. It may be used for various sweet dishes, but chiefly for
+pudding-sauce mixed with melted butter.
+
+CURAÇOA.
+
+Pound as much dried orange-peel as will make six ounces when done; the
+peel of fresh shaddock will be still better; or you may substitute six
+drachms of the oil of orange-peel. Put it into a quart of the strongest
+and clearest rectified spirit; shake it, let it infuse for a fortnight,
+and strain it. Then make a syrup by dissolving a pound of the best
+loaf-sugar in a pint of cold water, adding to it the beaten white of an
+egg, and boiling and skimming it till the scum ceases to rise. Mix the
+syrup with the strained liquor. Let it stand till next day, and then
+filter it through white blotting paper fastened to the bottom of a
+sieve. Curaçoa is a great improvement to punch; also a table-spoonful
+of it in a tumbler of water makes a very refreshing summer drink.
+
+PATENT YEAST.
+
+Boil half a pound of fresh hops in four quarts of water, till the
+liquid is reduced to two quarts Strain it, and mix in sufficient wheat
+flour to make a thin batter; adding half a pint of strong fresh yeast,
+(brewer’s yeast, if it can be procured.) When it is done fermenting,
+pour it into a pan, and stir in sufficient Indian meal to make a
+moderately stiff dough. Cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise.
+When it has become very light, roll it out into a thick sheet, and cut
+it into little cakes. Spread them out on a dish, and let them dry
+gradually in a cool place where there is no sun. Turn them five or six
+times a day while drying; and when they are quite dry, put them into
+paper bags, and keep them in a jar or box closely covered, in a place
+that is not in the least damp.
+
+When you want the yeast for use, dissolve in a little warm water one or
+more of the cakes, (in proportion to the quantity of bread you intend
+making,) and when it is quite dissolved, stir it hard, thicken it with
+a little flour, cover it, and place it near the fire to rise before you
+use it. Then mix it with the flour in the usual manner of preparing
+bread.
+
+This is a very convenient way of preserving yeast through the summer,
+or of conveying it to a distance.
+
+TO DRY HERBS.
+
+By drying herbs with artificial heat as quickly as possible, you
+preserve their scent and flavour much better than when they are dried
+slowly by exposing them to the sun and air; a process by which a large
+portion of their strength evaporates. All sorts of herbs are in the
+greatest perfection just before they begin to flower. Gather them on a
+dry day, and place them in an oven, which must not be hot enough to
+discolour, scorch, or burn them. When they are quite dry, take them
+out, and replace them with others. Pick the leaves from, the stems,
+(which may be thrown away,) and put them into bottles or jars; cork
+them tightly, and keep them in a dry place. Those that are used in
+cookery should be kept in a kitchen closet.
+
+PEACH KERNELS.
+
+When peaches are in season, have in a convenient place an old basket or
+something of the sort, in which all the peach stones can be saved; they
+are too useful to be thrown away. Then have them carefully cracked, so
+as to extract the kernels whole if possible. Spread them out on a dish
+for one day. Then, put them into a box or jar, and keep them to use as
+bitter almonds; for which they are an excellent substitute in
+flavouring custards, creams and cakes. Plum stones are worth saving in
+the same manner.
+
+LEMON-PEEL.
+
+Never throw away the rind of a lemon; Keep a wide-mouthed bottle half
+full of brandy, and put into it (cut in pieces) all the lemon-rind that
+you do not immediately want. As the white part of the rind is of no
+use, it will be best to pare off the yellow very thin, and put that
+alone into the brandy, which will thus imbibe a very fine lemon
+flavour, and may be used for many nice purposes.
+
+TO KEEP TOMATAS.
+
+Take fine ripe tomatas, and wipe them dry, taking care not to break the
+skin. Put them, into a stone jar with cold vinegar, adding a small thin
+muslin bag filled with mace, whole cloves, and whole peppers. Then cork
+the jar tightly with a cork that has been dipped in melted rosin, and
+put it away in a dry place. Tomatas pickled in this manner keep
+perfectly well and retain their colour. For this purpose use the small
+round button tomatas.
+
+
+
+
+ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.
+
+
+FRENCH GREEN PEA SOUP.
+
+This soup is made without meat. Put into a soup-pot four quarts of
+shelled green peas, two large onions sliced, a handful of leaves of
+sweet marjoram shred from the stalks, or a handful of sweet basil; or a
+mixed handful of both—also, if you like it, a handful of green mint.
+Add four quarts of water, and boil the whole slowly till all the peas
+are entirely to pieces. Then take off the pot, and mash the peas well
+against its sides to extract from them all their flavour. Afterward
+strain off the liquid into a clean pot, and add to it a tea-cup full of
+the juice of spinach, which you must prepare, while the soup is
+boiling, by pounding some spinach in a mortar. This will give the soup
+a fine green colour. Then put in a quarter of a pound of the best fresh
+butter rolled whole in flour; and add a pint and a half more of shelled
+young peas. If you wish the soup very thick, you may allow a quart of
+the additional peas. Season it with a very little salt and cayenne; put
+it again over the fire, and boil it till the last peas are quite soft,
+but not till they go to pieces.
+
+Have ready in a tureen two or three slices of toasted bread cut into
+small squares or dice, and pour the soup on it.
+
+This soup, if properly made, will be found excellent, notwithstanding
+the absence of meat. It is convenient for fast days; and in the
+country, where vegetables can be obtained from the garden, the expense
+will be very trifling. What is left may be warmed for the next day.
+
+GIBLET SOUP.
+
+Take three pounds of shin of beef or of neck of mutton. Cut off the
+meat and break the bones. Then put the meat with the bones into a
+soup-pot, with a tea-spoonful of salt, and three quarts of water. Add a
+bunch of sweet marjoram, one of sweet basil, and a quarter of an ounce
+of black pepper-corns, all tied in a thin muslin rag; a sliced onion,
+and six or eight turnips and carrots, cut small. Let the whole boil
+slowly for two or three hours, skimming it well. In the meantime, have
+ready two sets of goose-giblets, or four of duck. They must he scalded,
+and well washed in warm water. Cut off the bills and split the heads;
+and cut the necks and gizzards into mouthfuls. Having taken the meat
+and bones out of the soup, put in the giblets, with a head of celery
+chopped. Boil it slowly an hour and a half; or more, taking care to
+skim it. Make a thickening of an ounce and a half of butter, and a
+large table-spoonful of flour, mixed together with a little of the
+soup. Then stir it into the pot, adding a large table-spoonful  of
+mushroom catchup, and some small force-meat balls, or little dumplings.
+Boil the soup half an hour longer. Then send it to table with the
+giblets in the tureen.
+
+GUMBO.
+
+Take an equal quantity of young tender ochras, and of ripe tomatas,
+(for instance, a quarter of a peck of each.) Chop the ochras fine, and
+scald and peel the tomatas. Put them into a stew-pan without any water.
+Add a lump of butter, and a very little salt and pepper; and, if you
+choose, an onion minced fine. Let it stew steadily for an hour. Then
+strain it, and send it to table as soup in a tureen. It should be like
+a jelly, and is a favourite New Orleans dish. Eat dry toast with it.
+
+HAM OMELET.
+
+Take six ounces of cold coiled ham, and mince it very fine, adding a
+little pepper. Beat separately the whites and yolks of six eggs, and
+then mix them together add to them gradually the minced ham. Beat the
+whole very hard, and do not let it stand a moment after it is
+thoroughly mixed. Have ready some boiling lard in a frying-pan, and put
+in the omelet immediately. Fry it about ten minutes or a quarter of an
+hour. When done, put it on a hot dish, trim off the edges, and fold it
+over in a half moon. Send it to table hot, and covered. It is eaten at
+breakfast.
+
+If you wish a soft omelet, (not to fold over,) fry it a shorter time,
+and serve it in a deep dish, to be helped with a spoon.
+
+A similar omelet may be made of the lean of a cold smoked tongue.
+
+
+BATTER PUDDING.
+
+Take a quart of milk, and stir into it gradually eight table spoonfuls
+of sifted flour, carefully pressing out all the lumps with the back of
+the spoon. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them by degrees to the
+milk and flour. Then stir the whole very well together.
+
+Dip your pudding-cloth into boiling water, and then dredge it with
+flour. Pour in the pudding, and tie it tightly, leaving room for it to
+swell. Put it into a pot full of boiling water, and boil it hard for
+two hours. Keep it in the pot till it is time to send it to table.
+Serve it up with wine-sauce, butter and sugar, or molasses and cold
+butter.
+
+PEACH MANGOES.
+
+Take free-stone peaches of the largest size, (when they are full grown,
+but not quite ripe,) and lay them in salt and water for two days,
+covered with a board to keep them down. Then take them out, wipe them
+dry, cut them open, and extract the stones. Mix together, to your
+taste, minced garlic, scraped horseradish, bruised mustard seed, and
+cloves; and a little ginger-root soaked in water to soften, and then
+sliced. Fill the cavity of the peaches with this mixture. Then tie them
+round with packthread, and put them into a stone jar till it is
+two-thirds full. Strew among them some whole cloves, broken cinnamon,
+and a little cochineal. Season some cold vinegar, (allowing to each
+quart a jill of fresh made mustard, and a little ginger, and nutmeg,)
+and having mixed this pickle well, fill up the jar with it.
+
+BROILED TOMATAS.
+
+Take large ripe tomatas; wipe them, and split them in half. Broil them
+on a gridiron till brown, turning them when half done. Have ready in a
+dish some butter seasoned with a little pepper. When the tomatas are
+well broiled, put them into the dish, and press each a little with the
+back of a spoon, so that the juice may run into the butter and mix with
+it. This is to make the gravy. Send them to table hot.
+
+Tomatas are very good sliced, and fried in butter.
+
+PRESERVED TOMATAS.
+
+Take large fine tomatas, (not too ripe,) and scald them to make the
+skins come off easily. Weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound of
+the best brown sugar, and the grated peel of a large lemon. Put all
+together into a preserving kettle, and having boiled it slowly for
+three hours, (skimming it carefully,) add the juice of the lemons, and
+boil it an hour longer. Then put the whole into jars, and when cool
+cover and tie them up closely. This is a cheap and excellent sweetmeat;
+but the lemon must on no account be omitted. It may be improved by
+boiling a little ginger with the other ingredients.
+
+TOMATA HONEY.
+
+To each pound of tomatas, allow the grated peel of a lemon and six
+fresh peach-leaves. Boil them slowly till they are all to pieces; then
+squeeze and strain them through a bag. To each pint of liquid allow a
+pound of loaf-sugar, and the juice of one lemon. Boil them together
+half an hour, or till they become a thick jelly. Then put it into
+glasses, and lay double tissue paper closely over the top. It will be
+scarcely distinguishable from real honey.
+
+PRESERVED CUCUMBERS.
+
+Your cucumbers should be well shaped, and all of the same size. Spread
+the bottom and sides of a preserving kettle with a thick layer of vine
+leaves. Then put in the cucumbers—with a little alum broken small.
+Cover them thickly with vine leaves, and then with a dish. Fill up the
+kettle with water, and let them hang over a slow fire till nest
+morning, but do not allow the water to boil. Next day, take them out,
+cool them, and repeat the process with fresh vine leaves, till the
+cucumbers are a fine green. When cold drain them, cut a small piece out
+of the flat side, and extract the seeds. Wipe the cucumbers in a dry
+cloth, and season the inside with a mixture of bruised mace and grated
+lemon-peel. Tie on with a packthread the bit that was cut out.
+
+Weigh them, and to every pound of cucumbers allow a pound of
+loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, a half pint of
+water to each pound, and. the beaten white of an egg to every four
+pounds. Boil and skim the sugar till quite clear, adding sliced ginger
+and lemon parings to your taste. When cool, pour it over the cucumbers,
+and let them lie in it two days, keeping them covered with a plate, and
+a weight on it to press it down. Then boil up the syrup again, adding
+one-half as much sugar, &c. as you had at first; and at the last the
+juice and grated peel of two lemons for every six cucumbers. The lemon
+must boil in the syrup but ten minutes. Then strain the syrup all over
+the cucumbers, and put them up in glass jars.
+
+If they are not quite clear, boil them in a third syrup.
+
+Small green melons may be preserved in this manner.
+
+APPLE RICE PUDDING.
+
+Wash half a pint of rice and boil it till soft and dry. Pare, core, and
+cut up six large juicy apples, and stew them in as little water as
+possible. When they are quite, tender, take them out, and mash them
+with six table-spoonfuls of brown sugar. When the apples and rice are
+both cold, mix them. together. Have ready five eggs beaten very light,
+and add them gradually to the other ingredients, with five or six drops
+of essence of lemon, and a grated nutmeg. Or you may substitute for the
+essence, the grated peel and the juice of one large lemon. Beat the
+whole very hard after it is all mixed; tie it tightly in a cloth,
+(leaving but a very small space for it to swell,) and stopping up the
+tying place with a lump of flour moistened to paste with water. Put it
+into a pot of boiling water, and boil it fast for half an hour. Send it
+to table hot, and eat it with sweetened cream, or with beaten butter
+and sugar.
+
+BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+Take large, fine, juicy apples, and pare and core them, leaving them as
+whole as possible. Put them into a kettle with sufficient water to
+cover them, and let them parboil a quarter of an hour. Then take them
+out, and drain them on a sieve. Prepare a paste in the proportion of a
+pound of butter to two pounds of flour, as for plain pies. Roll it out
+into a sheet, and cut it into equal portions according to your number
+of apples. Place an apple on each, and fill up the hole from whence the
+core was extracted with brown sugar moistened with lemon-juice, or with
+any sort of marmalade. Then cover the apple with the paste, closing it
+neatly. Place the dumplings side by side in buttered square pans, (not
+so as to touch,) and bake them of a light brown. Serve them warm or
+cool, and eat them with cream sauce.
+
+They will be found very good.
+
+INDIAN LOAF CAKE.
+
+Mix a tea-cup full of powdered white sugar with a quart of rich milk,
+and cut up in the milk two ounces of butter, adding a salt-spoonful of
+salt. Put this mixture into a covered pan or skillet, and set it on
+coals till it is scalding hot. Then take it off, and scald with it as
+much yellow Indian meal (previously sifted) as will make it of the
+consistence of thick boiled mush. Beat the whole very hard for a
+quarter of an hour, and then set it away to cool.
+
+While it is cooling, beat three eggs very light, and stir them
+gradually into the mixture when it is about as warm as new milk. Add a
+tea-cup full of good strong yeast, and beat the whole another quarter
+of an hour—for much of the goodness of this cake depends on its being
+long and well beaten. Then have ready a turban mould or earthen pan
+with a pipe in the centre, (to diffuse the heat through the middle of
+the cake.) The pan must be very well buttered, as Indian meal is apt to
+stick. Put in the mixture, cover it, and set it in a warm place to
+rise. It should be light in about four hours. Then bake it two hours in
+a moderate oven. When done, turn it oat with the broad surface
+downwards, and send it to table hot and whole. Cut it into slices, and
+eat it with butter.
+
+This will be found an excellent cake. If wanted for breakfast, mix it,
+and set it to rise the night before. If properly made, standing all
+night will not injure it. Like all Indian cakes, (of which this is one
+of the best,) it should be eaten warm.
+
+It will be much improved by adding to the mixture, a salt-spoon of
+pearl-ash, or sal-aratus, dissolved in a little water.
+
+PLAIN CIDER CAKE.
+
+Sift into a large pan a pound and a half of flour, and rub into it half
+a pound of butter. Mix in three-quarters of a pound of powdered white
+sugar and melt a small tea-spoonful of sal-aratus or pearl-ash in a
+pint of the best cider. Pour the cider into the other ingredients while
+it is foaming, and stir the whole very hard. Have ready a buttered
+square pan, put in the mixture, and set It immediately in a rather
+brisk oven. Bake it an hour or more, according to its thickness. This
+is a tea cake, and should be eaten fresh. Cut it into squares, split
+and butter them.
+
+TENNESSEE MUFFINS.
+
+Sift three pints of yellow Indian meal, and put one-half into a pan and
+scald it. Then set it away to get cold. Beat six: eggs, whites and
+yolks separately. The yolks must be beaten till they become very thick
+and smooth, and the whites till they are a stiff froth, that stands
+alone. When the scalded meal is cold, mix it into a batter with the
+beaten yolk of egg, the remainder of the meal, a salt-spoonful of salt,
+and, if necessary, a little water. The batter must be quite thick. At
+the last, stir in, lightly and slowly, the beaten white of egg. Grease
+your muffin rings, and set them in an oven of the proper heat; put in
+the batter immediately, as standing will injure it.
+
+Send them to table hot; pull them open, and eat them with butter.
+
+
+HOE CAKE.
+
+Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and sift into a pan a
+quart of wheat flour, adding a salt-spoon of salt. Make a hole in the
+middle, and mix in the white of egg so as to form a thick batter, and
+then add two table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Cover it, and let
+it stand all night. In the morning, take a hoe-iron (such as are made
+purposely for cakes) and prop it before the fire till, it is well
+heated. Then flour a tea-saucer, and filling it with batter, shake it
+about, and clap it to the hoe, (which must be previously greased,) and
+the batter will adhere, till it is baked. Repeat this with each cake.
+Keep them hot, and eat them with butter.
+
+MILK TOAST.
+
+Boil a pint of rich milk, and then take it off, and stir into it a
+quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with a small table-spoonful
+of flour. Then let it again come to a boil. Have ready two deep plates
+with half a dozen slices of toast in each. Pour the milk over them hot,
+and keep them covered till they go to table. Milk toast is generally
+eaten at breakfast.
+
+POTATO YEAST.
+
+Pare half a dozen middle-sized potatoes, and boil them in a quart of
+soft water, mixed with a handful of hops, till quite soft. Then mash
+the potatoes smooth, not leaving in a single lump. Mix with them a
+handful of wheat flour. Set a sieve over the pan in which you have the
+flour and mashed potatoes, and strain into them the hop-water in which
+they were boiled. Then stir the mixture very hard, and afterwards pass
+it through a cullender to clear it of lumps. Let it stand till it is
+nearly cold. Then stir in four table-spoonfuls of strong yeast, and let
+it stand to ferment. When the foam has sunk down in the middle, (which
+will not be for several hours,) it is done working. Then put it into a
+stone jug and cork it. Set it in a cool place.
+
+This yeast will be found extremely good for raising home-made bread.
+
+Yeast when it becomes sour may be made fit to use by stirring into it a
+little sal-aratus, or pearl-ash, allowing a small tea-spoonful to a
+pint of yeast. This will remove the acidity, and improve the bread in
+lightness. The pearl-ash must be previously melted in a little lukewarm
+water.
+
+CREAM CHEESE.
+
+The cheese so called (of which numbers are brought to Philadelphia
+market) is not in reality made of cream, but of milk warm from the cow,
+and therefore unskimmed.
+
+Having strained into a tub a bucket of new milk, turn it in the usual
+way with rennet water. When it has completely come, take a clean linen
+cloth and press it down upon the firm curd, so as to make the whey rise
+up over it. As the whey rises, dip it off with a saucer or a skimming
+dish. Then carefully put the curd (as whole as possible) into a cheese
+hoop, or mould, which for this purpose should be about half a foot
+deep, and as large round as a dinner plate—first spreading a clean wet
+cloth under the curd, and folding it (the cloth) over the top. Lay a
+large brick on it, or something of equivalent weight, and let the whey
+drain gradually out through the holes at the bottom of the mould. It
+must not be pressed hard, as when finished a cream cheese should be
+only about the consistence of firm butter. The curd will sink gradually
+in the mould till the whole mass will be about two or three inches
+thick. Let it remain in the mould six hours, by which time the whey
+should cease to exude from it. Otherwise, it must be left in somewhat
+longer.
+
+When you take out the cheese, rub it all over with a little lard, and
+sprinkle it slightly with fine salt. Set it in a dry dark place, and in
+four or five days it will be fit for use. When once cut, it should (if
+the weather is warm) be eaten immediately; but if uncut, it will keep a
+week in a cold place, provided it is turned three or four times a day.
+Send it to table whole on a large plate, and cut it when there into
+wedge-shaped pieces as you would a pie. It is usually eaten at tea or
+supper, and is by most persons considered a delicacy.
+
+ALMOND BREAD.
+
+Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half a pound of shelled sweet almonds
+till they are a smooth paste, adding rose-water as you pound them. They
+should be done the day before they are wanted. Prepare a pound of
+loaf-sugar finely powdered, a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, (mace,
+nutmeg, and cinnamon,) and three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour.
+Take fourteen eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Leave out
+seven of the whites, and beat the other seven to a stiff froth. Beat
+the yolks till very thick and smooth, and then beat the sugar gradually
+into them, adding the spice. Next stir in the white of egg, then the
+flour, and lastly the almonds. You may add twelve drops of essence of
+lemon.
+
+Put the mixture into a square tin pan, (well buttered,) or into a
+copper or tin turban-mould, and set it immediately in a brisk oven. Ice
+it when cool. It is best if eaten fresh. You may add a few bitter
+almonds to the sweet ones.
+
+CUSTARD CAKES.
+
+Mix together a pound of sifted flour and a quarter of a pound of
+powdered loaf-sugar. Divide into four a pound of fresh butter; mix
+one-fourth of it with the flour, and make it into a dough. Then roll it
+out, and put in the three remaining divisions of the butter at three
+more rollings. Set the paste in a cool place till the custard is ready.
+For the custard, beat very light the yolk only of eight eggs, and then
+stir them gradually into a pint of rich cream, adding three ounces of
+powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, and ratafia, peach-water, or
+essence of lemon, to your taste. Put the mixture into a deep dish; set
+it in an iron baking pan or a Dutch oven half full of boiling water,
+and bake it a quarter of an hour. Then put it to cool.
+
+In the mean time roll out the paste into a thin sheet; cut it into
+little round cakes about the size of a dollar, and bake them on flat
+tins. When they are done, spread some of the cakes thickly with the
+custard, and lay others on the top of them, making them fit closely in
+the manner of lids.
+
+You may bake the paste in patty-pans like shells, and put in the
+custard after they come out of the oven. If the custard is baked in the
+paste, it will be clammy and heavy at the bottom.
+
+They are sometimes called cream cakes or cream tarts.
+
+HONEY GINGER CAKE.
+
+Rub together a pound of sifted flour and three-quarters of a pound of
+fresh butter. Mix in, a tea-cup of fine brown sugar, two large
+table-spoonfuls of strong ginger, and (If you like them) two
+table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Having beaten five eggs, add them to
+the mixture alternately with a pint of strained honey; stirring in
+towards the last a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, that has been
+melted in a very little water.
+
+Having beaten or stirred the mixture long enough to make it perfectly
+light, transfer it to a square iron or block-tin pan, (which must be
+well buttered,) put it into a moderate oven, and bake it an hour or
+more, in proportion to its thickness.
+
+When cool, cut it into squares. It is best if eaten fresh, but it will
+keep very well a week.
+
+ROCK CAKE.
+
+Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and bruise
+them fine in a mortar, but not to a smooth paste as for maccaroons.
+Add, as you pound them, a little rose-water. Beat to a stiff froth the
+whites of four eggs, and then beat in gradually a pound of powdered
+loaf-sugar. Add a few drops of oil of lemon. Then mix in the pounded
+almonds. Flour your hands, and make the mixture into little cones or
+pointed cakes. Spread sheets of damp, thin, white paper on buttered
+sheets of tin, and put the rock cakes on it, rather far apart. Sprinkle
+each with powdered loaf-sugar. Bake them of a pale brown, in a brisk
+oven. They will be done in a few minutes.
+
+When cold, take them off the papers.
+
+FROZEN CUSTARD.
+
+Slice a vanilla bean, and boil it slowly in half a pint of milk/till
+all the strength is extracted and the milk highly flavoured with the
+vanilla. Then strain its and set it aside. Mix a quart of cream and a
+pint of milk, or, if you cannot procure cream, take three pints of rich
+milk, and put them into a skillet or sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals,
+and boil it. When it has come to a boil, mix a table-spoonful of flour
+in three table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir it info the boiling liquid.
+Afterwards add two eggs, (which have been beaten up with two
+table-spoonfuls of milk,) pouring them slowly into the mixture. Take
+care to stir it all the time it is boiling. Five minutes after, stir in
+gradually half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and then the decoction
+of vanilla. Having stirred it hard a few moments, take it off the fire,
+and set it to cool. When quite cold, put it into a mould and freeze it,
+as you would ice-cream, for which it frequently passes.
+
+You may flavour it with a tea-spoonful of strong oil of lemon, stirred
+in just before you take it from the fire, or with a quarter of a pound
+of shelled bitter almonds, blanched, pounded in a mortar with a little
+water, and then boiled in half a pint of milk, till the flavour Is
+extracted.
+
+CHERRY CORDIAL.
+
+Take a bushel of fine ripe cherries, either red or black, or mixed;
+stone them, put them into a clean wooden vessel, and mash them with a
+mallet or beetle. Then boil them about five minutes, and. strain the
+juice. To each quart of juice allow a quart of water, a pound of sugar,
+and a quart of brandy. Boil in the water (before you mix it with the
+juice) two ounces of cloves, and four ounces of cinnamon; then strain
+out the spice. Put the mixture into a stone jug, or a demijohn, and
+cork it tightly. Bottle it in two or three months.
+
+COMMON ICE CREAM.
+
+Split into pieces a vanilla bean, and boil it in a very little milk
+till the flavour is well extracted; then strain it. Mix two
+table-spoonfuls of arrow-root powder, or the same quantity of fine
+powdered starch, with just sufficient cold milk to make it a thin
+paste; rubbing it till quite smooth. Boil together a pint of cream and
+a pint of rich milk; and while boiling stir in the preparation of
+arrow-root, and the milk in which the vanilla has been boiled. When it
+has boiled hard, take it off, stir in half a pound of powdered
+loaf-sugar, and let it come to a boil again. Then strain it, and put it
+into a freezer placed in a tub that has a hole in the bottom to let-out
+the water; and surround the freezer on all sides with ice broken
+finely, and mixed with coarse salt. Beat the cream hard for half an
+hour. Then let it rest; occasionally taking off the cover, and scraping
+down with a long spoon the cream that slicks to the sides. When it is
+well frozen, transfer it to a mould; surround it with fresh salt and
+ice, and then freeze it over again.
+
+If you wish to flavour it with lemon instead of vanilla, take a large
+lump of the sugar before you powder it, and rub it on the outside of a
+large lemon till the yellow is all rubbed off upon the sugar. Then,
+when the sugar is all powdered, mix with it the juice.
+
+For strawberry ice cream, mix with the powdered sugar the juice of a
+quart of ripe strawberries squeezed through a linen cloth.
+
+PINK CHAMPAGNE JELLY.
+
+Beat half the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and then stir it hard
+into three wine-glasses of filtered water. Put twelve ounces of the
+best double-refined loaf-sugar (powdered fine and sifted) into a
+skillet lined with porcelain. Pour on it the white of egg and water,
+and stir it till dissolved. Then add twelve grains of cochineal powder.
+Set it over a moderate fire, and boil it and skim it till the scum
+ceases to rise. Then strain it through a very fine sieve. Have ready an
+ounce and a half of isinglass that has been boiled in a little water
+till quite dissolved. Strain it, and while the boiled sugar is lukewarm
+mix it with the isinglass, adding a pint of pink champagne and the
+juice of a large lemon. Run it through a linen bag into a mould. When
+it has congealed so as to be quite firm, wrap a wet cloth round the
+outside of the mould, and turn out the jelly into a glass dish; or
+serve it broken up, in jelly glasses, or glass cups. Jelly may be made
+in a similar manner of Madeira, marasquin, or noyau.
+
+A CHARLOTTE RUSSE.
+
+Boil in half a pint of milk a split vanilla bean, till all the flavour
+is extracted. Then strain the milk, and when it is cold stir into it
+the yolks of four beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered
+loaf-sugar.
+
+Simmer this custard five minutes over hot coals, but do not let it come
+to a boil. Then set it away to cool. Having boiled an ounce of the best
+Russian isinglass in a pint of water till it is entirely dissolved and
+the water reduced to one-half, strain it into the custard, stir it
+hard, and set it aside to get quite cold.
+
+Whip to a stiff froth a quart of rich cream, taking it off in spoonfuls
+as you do it, and putting it to drain on an inverted sieve. When the
+custard is quite cold, (but not yet set or congealing,) stir the whipt
+cream gradually into it.
+
+Take at circular mould of the shape of a drum, the sides being
+straight. Cut to fit it two round slices from the top and bottom of an
+almond sponge-cake; glaze them with white of egg, and lay one on at the
+bottom of the mould, reserving the other for the top.
+
+Having thus covered the bottom, line the sides of the mould with, more
+of the sponge-cake, cut into long squares and glazed all over with
+white of egg. They must be placed so as to stand up all round—each
+wrapping a little over the other so as to leave not the smallest
+vacancy between; and they must be cut exactly the height of the mould,
+and trimmed evenly. Then fill up with the custard and cream when it is
+just beginning to congeal; and cover the top with the other round slice
+of cake.
+
+Set the mould in a tub of pounded ice mixed with coarse salt; and let
+it remain forty minutes, or near an hour. Then turn out the Charlotte
+on a china dish. Have ready an icing, made in the usual manner of
+beaten white of egg and powdered sugar, flavoured with essence of
+lemon. Spread it smoothly over the top of the Charlotte, which when the
+icing is dry will be ready, to serve. They are introduced at large
+parties, and it is usual to have two or four of them.
+
+A CHARLOTTE POLONAISE.
+
+Boil over a slow fire a pint and a half of cream. While it is boiling
+have ready six yolks of eggs, beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of
+powdered arrow-root, or fine flour. Stir this gradually into the
+boiling cream, taking care to have it perfectly smooth and free from
+lumps. Ten minutes will suffice for the egg and cream to boil together.
+Then divide the mixture by putting it into two separate sauce-pans.
+
+Then mix with it, in one of the pans, six ounces of chocolate scraped
+fine, two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and a quarter of a pound of
+maccaroons, broken up. When it has come to a hard boil, take it off,
+stir it well, pour it into a bowl, and set it away to cool.
+
+Have ready, for the other sauce-pan of cream and egg, a dozen bitter
+almonds, and four ounces of shelled sweet almonds or pistachio nuts,
+all blanched and pounded in a mortar with rose-water to a smooth paste,
+and mixed with an ounce of citron also pounded. Add four ounces of
+powdered sugar; and to colour it green, two large spoonfuls of spinach
+juice that has been strained through a sieve. Stir this mixture into
+the other half of the cream, and let it come to a boil. Then put it
+aside to cool.
+
+Cut a large sponge-cake into slices half an inch thick. Spread one
+slice thickly with the chocolate cream, and cover another slice with
+the almond cream. Do this alternately (piling them evenly on a china
+dish) till all the ingredients are used up. You may arrange it in the
+original form of the sponge-cake before it was cut, or in a pyramid.
+Have ready the whites of the six eggs whipped to a stiff froth, with
+which have been gradually mixed six ounces of powdered sugar, and
+twelve drops of oil of lemon. With a spoon heap this meringue (as the
+French call it) all over the pile of cake, &c., and then sift powdered
+sugar over it. Set it in a very slow oven till the outside becomes a
+light brown colour.
+
+Serve it up cold, ornamented according to your taste.
+
+If you find the chocolate cream too thin, add more maccaroons. If the
+almond cream is too thin, mix in more pounded citron. If either of the
+mixtures is too thick, dilute it with more cream.
+
+This is superior to a Charlotte Russe.
+
+APPLE COMPOTE.
+
+Take large ripe pippin apples. Pare, core, and weigh them, and to each
+pound allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar and two lemons. Parboil the
+apples, and then set them out to cool. Pare off very nicely with a
+penknife the yellow rind of the lemons, taking care not to break it;
+and then with scissors trim the edges to an even width all along. Put
+the lemon-rind to boil in a little sauce-pan by itself, till it Becomes
+tender, and then set it to cool. Allow half a pint of water to each
+pound of sugar; and when it is melted, set it on the fire in the
+preserving kettle, put in the apples, and boil them slowly till they
+are clear and tender all through, but not till they break; skimming the
+syrup carefully. After you have taken out the apples, add the
+lemon-juice, put in the lemon-peel, and boil it till quite transparent.
+When the whole is cold, put the apples with the syrup into glass
+dishes, and dispose the wreaths of lemon-peel fancifully about them.
+
+
+
+
+ANIMALS
+
+
+FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE
+DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS.
+
+_Beef._
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+1. Sirloin. 2. Rump. 3. Edge Bone. 4. Buttock. 5. Mouse Buttock. 6.
+Leg. 7. Thick Flank. 8. Veiny Piece. 9. Thin Flank. 10. Fore Rib: 7
+Ribs. 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. 13. Brisket. 14.
+Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. 15. Clod. 16. Neck, or Sticking
+Piece. 17. Shin. 18. Cheek.
+
+_Veal_.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+1. Loin, Best End. 2. Fillet. 3. Loin, Chump End. 4. Hind Knuckle. 5.
+Neck, Best End. 6. Breast, Best End. 7. Blade Bone. 8. Fore Knuckle. 9.
+Breast, Brisket End. 10. Neck, Scrag End.
+
+_Mutton._
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+1. Leg 2. Shoulder 3. Loin, Best End. 4. Loin, Chump End. 5. Neck, Best
+End. 6. Breast. 7. Neck, Scrag End.
+
+
+_Note:_ A Chine is two Loins, and two Necks of the Best End.
+
+_Pork._
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+1. Leg. 2. Hind Loin. 3. Fore Loin. 4. Spare Rib. 5. Hand. 6. Spring.
+
+_Venison_
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+1. Shoulder. 2. Neck. 3. Haunch. 4. Breast. 5. Scrag.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Acid salt
+Almond cake
+Almond custard
+Almond ice-cream
+Almond maccaroons
+Almond pudding
+Another almond pudding
+Anchovy catchup
+Anchovy sauce
+Anniseed cordial
+Apees
+Apples, baked
+Apple butter
+Apple butter, without cider
+Apple custard
+Apple dumplings
+Apple fritters
+Apple jelly
+Apple and other pies
+Apple pot-pie Apples, preserved
+Apple pudding, baked
+Apple pudding, boiled
+Apple sauce
+Apple water
+Apricots, preserved
+Arrow-root blanc-mange
+Arrow-root jelly
+Arrow-root pudding
+Artichokes, to boil
+Asparagus, to boil
+Asparagus soup
+
+Balm of Gilead oil
+Barberry jelly
+Barberries, to pickle
+Barley water
+Bath buns
+Bean soup
+Beans, (dried,) to boil
+Beans, (green or French,) to boil
+Beans, (green,) to pickle
+Beans, (Lima,) to boil, and dry
+Beans, (scarlet) to boil
+Beef, remarks on
+Beef, à la mode
+Beef, baked
+Beef bouilli
+Beef (corned or salted) to boil
+Beef cakes
+Beef, to corn
+Beef, to dry and smoke
+Beef dripping, to save
+Beef, hashed
+Beef’s heart, roasted
+Beef’s heart, stewed
+Beef kidney, to dress Beef, potted
+Beef, to roast
+Beef soup, fine
+Beef steaks, to broil
+Beef steaks, to fry
+Beef steak pie
+Beef steak pudding
+Beef, to stew
+Beef, (a round of,) to stew
+Beef, (a round of,) to stew another way
+Beef and tongues, to pickle
+Beef tea
+Beets, to boil
+Beets, to stew
+Beer, (molasses)
+Beer, (sassafras)
+Biscuit, (milk)
+Biscuit, (soda)
+Biscuit, (sugar)
+Biscuit, (tea)
+Bishop
+Bitters
+Black cake
+Black-fish, to stew
+Blanc-mange
+Blanc-mange, (arrow-root)
+Blanc-mange, (carrageen)
+Bottled small beer
+Bran bread
+Bread
+Bread, (rye and Indian)
+Bread cake
+Bread jelly
+Bread pudding, baked
+Bread pudding, boiled
+Bread and butter pudding
+Bread sauce
+Brocoli, to boil
+Brown soup, rich
+Buckwheat cakes
+Burnet vinegar
+Burns, remedy for
+Butter, to brown
+Butter, melted or drawn
+Butter, to make
+Butter, to preserve
+Butternuts, to pickle
+
+Cabbage, to boil
+Cabbage, (red,) to pickle
+Cale-cannon
+Calf’s feet broth
+Calf’s feet, to fry
+Calf’s feet jelly
+Calf’s head, dressed plain
+Calf’s head, hashed
+Calf’s head soup
+Calf’s liver, fried
+Calf’s liver, larded
+Cantelope, preserved
+Caper sauce
+Capillaire
+Carrots, to boil
+Carrot pudding
+Carp, to stew
+Carrageen blanc-mange
+Catfish soup
+Cauliflower, to boil
+Cauliflower, to pickle
+Cayenne pepper
+Celery, to prepare for table
+Celery sauce
+Celery vinegar
+Charlotte, (plum)
+Charlotte, (raspberry)
+Cheese, to make
+Cheese, (cottage)
+Cheese, (sage)
+Cheese, (Stilton)
+Cheesecake, (almond)
+Cheesecake, (common)
+Cherry bounce
+Cherry cordial
+Cherries, (dried)
+Cherry jam
+Cherry jelly
+Cherries, preserved
+Cherries, preserved whole
+Cherry shrub
+Chestnuts, to roast
+Chestnut pudding
+Chicken broth, and panada,
+Chickens, broiled,
+Chicken croquets and rissoles,
+Chicken curry,
+Chicken dumplings or puddings,
+Chickens, fricasseed,
+Chicken jelly,
+Chicken pie,
+Chicken salad,
+Chilblains, remedy for,
+Chilli vinegar,
+Chitterlings, or calf’s tripe,
+Chocolate, to make,
+Chocolate custard,
+Chowder,
+Cider cake,
+Cider, (mulled,)
+Cider vinegar,
+Cider wine,
+Cinderellas, or German puffs,
+Citrons, to preserve,
+Clam soup,
+Clam soup, (plain,)
+Clotted cream,
+Cocoa, to prepare,
+Cocoa shells, to boil,
+Cocoa-nut cakes,
+Cocoa-nut cakes, (white,)
+Cocoa-nut custard, baked,
+Cocoa-nut custard, boiled,
+Cocoa-nut jumbles,
+Cocoa-nut maccaroons,
+Cocoa-nut pudding,
+Cocoa-nut pudding, another way,
+Codfish, (fresh,) to boil,
+Codfish, (fresh,) to boil another way,
+Codfish, salt, to boil,
+Coffee, to make,
+Coffee, (French,)
+Cold cream,
+Cold slaw,
+Cold sweet sauce,
+Cologne water,
+Colouring for confectionary,
+Corn, (Indian,) to boil,
+Corn, (green,) pudding,
+Corns, remedy for,
+Cosmetic paste,
+Crab-apples, (green,) to preserve,
+Crab-apples, (red,) to preserve,
+Crabs, (cold,)
+Crabs, (hot,)
+Crabs, (soft,)
+Cranberries, to preserve,
+Cranberry sauce,
+Cream cake,
+Cream, (lemon,)
+Cream, (orange,)
+Cream, to preserve,
+Cream sauce,
+Cucumbers, to dress raw,
+Cucumbers, to fry,
+Cucumbers, to pickle,
+Cup cake,
+Curaçoa,
+Curds and whey,
+Currant jelly, (black,)
+Currant jelly, (red,)
+Currant jelly, (white,)
+Currant shrub,
+Currant wine,
+Custard, (boiled,)
+Custard, (plain,)
+Custard, (rice,)
+Custard, (soft,)
+Custard pudding,
+
+Dough nuts,
+Ducks, to hash,
+Ducks, to stew,
+Ducks, to roast,
+Dumplings, (apple,)
+Dumplings, (light,)
+Dumplings, (plain suet,)
+Dumplings, (fine suet,)
+Dumplings, (Indian,)
+Durable ink,
+Durable ink, another way,
+
+Eastern pudding,
+Eggs, to boil for breakfast,
+Eggs, to fricassee,
+Eggs, to keep,
+Eggs with ham,
+Egg nogg,
+Eggs, to pickle,
+Egg plant, to stew,
+Egg plant, to fry,
+Egg plant, stuffed,
+Eggs, raw,
+Egg sauce,
+Election cake,
+Elderberry wine,
+Elder-flower wine,
+Essence of lemon peel,
+Essence of peppermint,
+Eve’s pudding,
+
+Family soup,
+Federal cakes,
+Flannel cakes,
+Flax-seed lemonade,
+Floating island,
+Flour, to brown,
+Flour hasty-pudding,
+Force-meat balls,
+Fowls, to boil,
+Fowls, to roast,
+Fox-grape shrub,
+Friar’s chicken,
+Fritters, (apple,)
+Fritters, (plain,)
+Frosted fruit,
+Fruit queen-cakes,
+
+General sauce,
+Gherkins, to pickle,
+Ginger, to preserve,
+Ginger beer,
+Ginger plum-cake,
+Gingerbread, (common,)
+Gingerbread nuts,
+Gingerbread, (Franklin,)
+Gingerbread, (white,)
+Gooseberries, bottled,
+Gooseberry custard,
+Gooseberry fool,
+Gooseberries, to preserve,
+Gooseberries, to stew,
+Gooseberry wine,
+Goose pie,
+Goose pie for Christmas,
+Goose, to roast,
+Grapes, in brandy,
+Grapes, (wild,) to keep,
+Grape jelly,
+Gravy, (drawn or made,)
+Gravy soup, (clear,)
+Ground nuts, to roast,
+Ground rice milk,
+Grouse, to roast,
+Gruel, to make,
+Gruel, oatmeal,
+
+Halibut, to boil,
+Halibut cutlets,
+Ham, to boil,
+Ham, to broil,
+Ham or bacon, directions for curing,
+Ham, (to glaze,)
+Ham dumplings,
+Ham pie,
+Ham sandwiches,
+Ham, to roast,
+Ham, (Westphalia,) to imitate,
+Hare or rabbit soup,
+Hare, to roast,
+Harvey’s sauce,
+Herbs, to dry,
+Hominy, to boil,
+Honey cake,
+Horseradish vinegar,
+Huckleberry cake,
+Hungary water,
+
+Ice cream, (almond,)
+Ice cream, (lemon,)
+Ice cream, (pine apple,)
+Ice cream, (raspberry,)
+Ice cream, (strawberry,)
+Ice cream, (vanilla,)
+Ice lemonade,
+Ice orangeade,
+Icing for cakes,
+Indian batter cakes,
+Indian corn, to boil,
+Indian dumplings,
+Indian flappers,
+Indian muffins,
+Indian mush,
+Indian mush cakes,
+Indian pound cake,
+Indian pudding, baked,
+Indian pudding, boiled,
+Indian pudding without eggs,
+Italian Cream,
+
+Jaune-mange,
+Jelly cake,
+Johnny cake,
+Julienne (à la) soup,
+
+Kid, to roast,
+Kitchen, pepper,
+Kitchiner’s fish-sauce,
+Kisses,
+
+Lady cake,
+Lamb, to roast,
+Larding,
+Lavender, compound,
+Lavender water,
+Laudanum, antidote to,
+Lead water,
+Lemon brandy,
+Lemon catchup,
+Lemon cordial,
+Lemon cream,
+Lemon custard,
+Lemon juice, to keep,
+Lemon peel, to keep,
+Lemon peel, (essence of,)
+Lemons, preserved,
+Lemon pudding,
+Lemon syrup,
+Lemonade,
+Lettuce or salad, to dress,
+Lip salve,
+Liver dumplings,
+Liver puddings,
+Lobster, to boil,
+Lobster catchup,
+Lobster, to fricassee,
+Lobster, to dress cold,
+Lobster, pickled,
+Lobster, potted,
+Lobster pie,
+Lobster sauce,
+Lobster soup,
+Lobster, to stew,
+
+Maccaroni, to dress,
+Maccaroni soup,
+Maccaroni soup, (rich,)
+Maccaroons, (almond,)
+Maccaroons, (cocoa-nut,)
+Maccaroon custard,
+Mackerel, to boil,
+Mackerel, to broil,
+Mangoes, to pickle,
+Marbled veal,
+Marlborough pudding,
+Marmalade cake,
+Mead,
+Meg Merrilies’ soup,
+Milk biscuit
+Milk punch
+Milk soup
+Mince pies
+Mince meat
+Mince meat for Lent
+Mince meat, (very plain)
+Minced oysters
+Mint sauce
+Molasses beer
+Molasses candy
+Molasses posset
+Moravian sugar-cake
+Morella cherries, to pickle
+Mock oysters of corn
+Mock turtle, or calf’s head soup
+Muffins, (common)
+Muffins, (Indian)
+Muffins, (water)
+Mulled cider
+Mulled wine
+Mullagatawny soup
+Mush, (Indian,) to make
+Mush cakes
+Mushrooms, to broil
+Mushroom catchup
+Mushrooms, to pickle brown
+Mushrooms, to pickle white
+Mushroom sauce
+Mushrooms, to stew
+Musquito bites, remedy for
+Mustard, (common)
+Mustard, (French)
+Mustard, (keeping)
+Mutton, to boil
+Mutton broth
+Mutton broth made quickly
+Mutton, (casserole of)
+Mutton chops, broiled
+Mutton chops, stewed
+Mutton cutlets, à la Maintenon
+Mutton harico
+Mutton, hashed
+Mutton, (leg of,) stewed
+Mutton, to roast
+Mutton soup, (including cabbage and noodle soups)
+
+Nasturtians, to pickle
+Nasturtian sauce
+New York cookies
+Nougat
+Noyau
+
+Oatmeal gruel
+Ochra soup
+Oil of flowers
+Omelet, (plain)
+Omelet soufflé
+Onions, to boil
+Onions, to fry
+Onions, to pickle
+Onions, pickled white
+Onions, to roast
+Onion sauce, (brown)
+Onion sauce, (white)
+Onion soup
+Orangeade
+Orange cream
+Orange jelly
+Orange marmalade
+Orange pudding
+Orgeat
+Ortolans, to roast
+Oyster catchup
+Oysters, fried
+Oyster fritters
+Oysters, minced
+Oysters, pickled
+Oysters, pickled for keeping
+Oyster pie
+Oysters, scalloped
+Oysters, stewed
+Oyster soup
+Oyster soup, (plain,)
+Ox-tail soup,
+Oyster Sauce,
+
+Panada, (chicken,)
+Pancakes, (plain,)
+Pancakes, (sweetmeat,)
+Parsley, to pickle,
+Parsley sauce,
+Parsnips, to boil,
+Partridges, to roast,
+Partridges, to roast another way,
+Paste, (dripping,)
+Paste, (lard,)
+Paste, (the best plain,)
+Paste, (potato,)
+Paste, (fine puff.)
+Paste, (suet,)
+Paste, (sweet,)
+Peaches, (in brandy,)
+Peach cordial,
+Peaches, (dried,)
+Peaches for common use,
+Peach jelly,
+Peach kernels,
+Peach marmalade,
+Peaches, to pickle,
+Peaches, to preserve,
+Peach sauce,
+Peas, (green,) to boil,
+Peas soup,
+Peas soup, (green,)
+Pears, to bake,
+Pears, to preserve,
+Peppers, (green,) to pickle,
+Peppers, (green,) to preserve,
+Pepper pot,
+Perch, to fry,
+Pheasants, to roast,
+Pheasants, to roast another way,
+Pies,
+Pie crust, (common,)
+Pies, (standing,)
+Pies, (apple and other,)
+Pickle, (East India,)
+Pig, to roast,
+Pig’s feet and ears, soused,
+Pigeon or chicken dumplings,
+Pigeon pie,
+Pigeons, to roast,
+Pilau,
+Pine-apple ice cream,
+Pine-apples, (fresh,) to prepare for eating,
+Pine-apples, to preserve,
+Plovers, to roast,
+Plum charlotte,
+Plums for common use,
+Plums, to preserve,
+Plums, (egg,) to preserve whole,
+Plums, (green gage,) to preserve,
+Plum pudding, baked,
+Plum pudding, boiled,
+Poke, to boil,
+Pomatum, (soft,)
+Pork and beans,
+Pork cheese,
+Pork, (corned,) to boil,
+Pork, (pickled,) to boil with peas pudding,
+Pork cutlets,
+Pork, (leg of,) to roast,
+Pork, (loin of,) to roast,
+Pork, (middling piece,) to roast,
+Pork pie,
+Pork steaks,
+Pork, to stew,
+Port wine jelly,
+Pot pie,
+Pot pie, (apple,)
+Potatoes, to boil,
+Potatoes, to fry,
+Potatoes, roasted
+Potato pudding
+Potato snow
+Pound cake
+Prawns, to boil
+Prune pudding
+Pudding catchup
+Pumpkin, to boil
+Pumpkin chips
+Pumpkin pudding
+Pumpkin yeast
+Punch
+Punch, (frozen,)
+Punch, (milk,)
+Punch, (fine milk,)
+Punch, (regent’s,)
+Punch, (Roman,)
+Pyramid of tarts,
+Pink sauce,
+
+Quails, to roast
+Queen cake
+Quin’s sauce for fish
+Quince cheese
+Quince cordial
+Quince jelly
+Quince marmalade
+Quinces, preserved
+Quinces, to preserve whole
+Quince pudding
+
+Rabbits, fricasseed
+Rabbits, to fry
+Rabbits, to stew
+Radishes, to prepare for table
+Radish pods, to pickle
+Raspberry charlotte
+Raspberry cordial
+Raspberry ice-cream
+Raspberry jam
+Raspberries, to preserve
+Raspberry vinegar
+Raspberry wine
+Ratafia
+Raw egg
+Reed birds, to roast
+Rennet whey
+Rhubarb tarts
+Rice, to boil
+Rice, to boil for curry Rice custard
+Rice cakes
+Rice dumplings
+Rice flummery
+Rice jelly
+Rice pudding, boiled
+Rice pudding, (farmer’s,)
+Rice pudding, (ground,)
+Rice pudding, (plain,)
+Rice pudding, (plum,)
+Rice milk
+Rice milk, (ground,)
+Ringworms, remedy for,
+Rock-fish, to boil,
+Rock-fish, to pickle,
+Rolls, (common,)
+Rolls, (French,)
+Rose brandy
+Rhubarb jam
+Rose cordial
+Rose vinegar
+Rusk
+Russian or Swedish turnip, to boil,
+Rye and Indian bread
+
+Sago
+Sago pudding
+Salad, to dress,
+Salmon, (fresh,) to bake whole,
+Salmon, (fresh,) to bake in slices,
+Salmon, (fresh,) to boil,
+Salmon, (pickled,)
+Salmon, (smoked,)
+Salmon steaks
+Sally Lunn cake,
+Salsify, to dress,
+Sandwiches, (ham,)
+Sangaree,
+Sassafras beer,
+Sausage meat, (common,)
+Sausages, (fine,)
+Sausages, (Bologna,)
+Savoy biscuits,
+Scented bags,
+Scotch cake,
+Scotch queen-cake,
+Scotch sauce for fish,
+Sea bass or black-fish, boiled,
+Sea bass, fried,
+Sea catchup,
+Sea kale, to boil,
+Secrets,
+Seidlitz powders,
+Shad, baked,
+Shad, to fry,
+Shalot vinegar,
+Shells,
+Short cakes,
+Shrub, (cherry,)
+Shrub, (currant,)
+Shrub, (fox-grape,)
+Smelts, to fry,
+Snowball custard,
+Snipes, to roast,
+Soda biscuit,
+Soda water,
+Spanish buns,
+Spinach, to boil,
+Spinach and eggs,
+Sponge cake,
+Spruce beer,
+Squashes or cymlings, to boil,
+Squash, (winter,) to boil,
+Squash, pudding,
+Strawberries, preserved,
+Strawberry ice-cream,
+Strawberry cordial,
+Sturgeon cutlets,
+Suet pudding,
+Sugar biscuit,
+Sugar syrup, clarified,
+Sweet basil vinegar,
+Sweet jars,
+Sweet sauce, (cold,)
+Sweet potatoes, boiled,
+Sweet potatoes, fried,
+Sweet potato pudding,
+Sweet-breads, to broil,
+Sweet-breads, larded,
+Sweet-breads, to roast,
+Syllabub or whipt cream,
+Syllabub, (country,)
+Shrewsbury cake,
+
+Tamarind water,
+Tapioca,
+Tarragon vinegar,
+Tea, to make,
+Terrapins,
+Thieves’ vinegar,
+Toast and water,
+Tomatas, to bake,
+Tomata catchup,
+Tomatas, to keep,
+Tomatas, to pickle,
+Tomatas, to stew,
+Tomata soy,
+Tongue, (salted or pickled,) to boil,
+Tongue, (smoked,) to boil,
+Trifle,
+Tripe, to boil,
+Tripe, to fry,
+Tripe and oysters,
+Trout, to boil,
+Trout, to fry,
+Turkey, to boil,
+Turkey, to roast,
+Turkish sherbet,
+Turnips, to boil,
+
+Veal, (breast of,) to stew,
+Veal, (breast of,) to roast,
+Veal cutlets,
+Veal, (fillet of,) to stew,
+Veal, (fillet of,) to roast,
+Veal, (knuckle of,) to stew,
+Veal, (loin of,) to roast,
+Veal, (minced,)
+Veal patties,
+Veal pie,
+Veal soup
+Veal soup, (rich,)
+Veal steaks
+Veal or chicken tea,
+Vegetable soup,
+Venison hams,
+Venison, (cold,) to hash,
+Venison pasty,
+Venison, to roast,
+Venison soup,
+Venison steaks,
+Vermicelli soup,
+Vinegar (cider,)
+Vinegar, (sugar,)
+Vinegar, (white,)
+Violet perfume,
+
+Wafer cakes,
+Waffles,
+Walnut catchup,
+Walnuts, pickled black,
+Walnuts, pickled green,
+Walnuts, pickled white,
+Warm slaw,
+Warts, remedy for,
+Washington cake,
+Water-melon rind, to preserve,
+Water souchy,
+Welsh rabbit,
+White soup, (rich,)
+Wine jelly,
+Wine sauce,
+Wine whey,
+Wonders or crullers,
+Woodcocks, to roast,
+
+Yam pudding,
+Yeast, (baker’s,)
+Yeast, (bran,)
+Yeast, (common,)
+Yeast, (patent,)
+Yeast, (pumpkin,)
+
+
+
+
+ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS
+
+
+Almond bread,
+Almond paste,
+Apple dumplings, (baked,)
+Apple compote,
+Apple rice pudding,
+
+Batter pudding
+Blood, to stop,
+
+Charlotte Polonaise,
+Charlotte Russe,
+Cherry cordial,
+Cider cake, (plain,)
+Cream cheese,
+Cucumbers, (preserved,)
+Custard cakes,
+
+Frozen custard,
+
+Giblet soup,
+Green pea soup, (French,)
+Green ointment,
+Gumbo,
+Gumbo soup,
+
+Ham omelet,
+Hoe cake,
+Honey ginger cake,
+
+Ice cream, (common,)
+Indian loaf cake,
+
+Lemon drops,
+
+Milk toast,
+
+Peach leather,
+Peach mangoes,
+Pearlash, to keep,
+Peppermint drops,
+Pink champagne jelly,
+Potato Yeast,
+
+Rock cake,
+
+Tennessee muffins,
+Tomatas, (broiled,)
+Tomata honey
+Tomatas, (preserved,)
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches, by Eliza Leslie
+
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