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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cook's Decameron: A Study in Taste:, by 
+Mrs. W. G. Waters
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Cook's Decameron: A Study in Taste:
+       Containing Over Two Hundred Recipes For Italian Dishes
+
+Author: Mrs. W. G. Waters
+
+Posting Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #930]
+Release Date: June, 1997
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COOK'S DECAMERON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Metra Christofferson
+
+
+
+
+
+THE COOK'S DECAMERON
+
+A Study In Taste
+
+
+Containing Over Two Hundred Recipes For Italian Dishes
+
+
+By Mrs. W. G. Waters
+
+
+"Show me a pleasure like dinner, which comes every day and lasts an
+hour."-- Talleyrand circa 1901
+
+
+
+To
+
+A. V.
+
+In memory of Certain Ausonian Feasts
+
+
+
+
+Preface
+
+Montaigne in one of his essays* mentions the high excellence Italian
+cookery had attained in his day. "I have entered into this Discourse
+upon the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd into my Service,
+and who was Clerk of the Kitchen to the late Cardinal Caraffa till his
+Death. I put this Fellow upon an Account of his office: Where he fell
+to Discourse of this Palate-Science, with such a settled Countenance and
+Magisterial Gravity, as if he had been handling some profound Point
+of Divinity. He made a Learned Distinction of the several sorts of
+Appetites, of that of a Man before he begins to eat, and of those after
+the second and third Service: The Means simply to satisfy the first, and
+then to raise and acute the other two: The ordering of the Sauces, first
+in general, and then proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients, and
+their Effects: The Differences of Sallets, according to their seasons,
+which ought to be serv'd up hot, and which cold: The Manner of their
+Garnishment and Decoration, to render them yet more acceptable to the
+Eye after which he entered upon the Order of the whole Service, full of
+weighty and important Considerations."
+
+It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded habit thus to applaud the
+gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be a Frenchman. It
+is a canon of belief with the modern Englishman that the French alone
+can achieve excellence in the art of cookery, and when once a notion of
+this sort shall have found a lodgment in an Englishman's brain, the task
+of removing it will be a hard one. Not for a moment is it suggested
+that Englishmen or any one else should cease to recognise the sovereign
+merits of French cookery; all that is entreated is toleration, and
+perchance approval, of cookery of other schools. But the favourable
+consideration of any plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the
+vast majority of Englishmen when they go abroad find no other school
+of cookery by the testing of which they may form a comparison. This
+universal prevalence of French cookery may be held to be a proof of
+its supreme excellence--that it is first, and the rest nowhere; but the
+victory is not so complete as it seems, and the facts would bring grief
+and humiliation rather than patriotic pride to the heart of a Frenchman
+like Brillat-Savarin. For the cookery we meet in the hotels of the great
+European cities, though it may be based on French traditions, is not the
+genuine thing, but a bastard, cosmopolitan growth, the same everywhere,
+and generally vapid and uninteresting. French cookery of the grand
+school suffers by being associated with such commonplace achievements.
+It is noted in the following pages how rarely English people on their
+travels penetrate where true Italian cookery may be tasted, wherefore it
+has seemed worth while to place within the reach of English housewives
+some Italian recipes which are especially fitted for the presentation of
+English fare to English palates under a different and not unappetising
+guise. Most of them will be found simple and inexpensive, and special
+care has been taken to include those recipes which enable the less
+esteemed portions of meat and the cheaper vegetables and fish to be
+treated more elaborately than they have hitherto been treated by English
+cooks.
+
+The author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for
+certain suggestions and emendations made in the revision of the
+introduction, and for his courage in dining, "greatly daring," off many
+of the dishes. He still lives and thrives. Also to Mrs. Mitchell, her
+cook, for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown in the work, for her
+valuable advice, and for the care taken in testing the recipes.
+
+
+
+
+Contents
+
+     Prologue
+
+
+     Part I
+
+     The First Day
+     The Second Day.
+     The Third Day.
+     The Fourth Day
+     The Fifth Day.
+     The Sixth Day.
+     The Seventh Day
+     The Eighth Day
+     The Ninth Day.
+     The Tenth Day.
+
+
+     Part II--Recipes
+
+     Sauces
+
+     No.
+
+         1. Espagnole or Brown Sauce.
+
+         2. Velute Sauce.
+
+         3. Bechamel Sauce.
+
+         4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking).
+
+         5. Genoese Sauce.
+
+         6. Italian Sauce.
+
+         7. Ham Sauce (Salsa di Prosciutto).
+
+         8. Tarragon Sauce.
+
+         9. Tomato Sauce.
+
+        10. Tomato Sauce Piquante.
+
+        11. Mushroom Sauce.
+
+        12. Neapolitan Sauce.
+
+        13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce.
+
+        14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce).
+
+        15. Roman Sauce (another way).
+
+        16. Supreme Sauce.
+
+        17. Pasta marinate (for masking Italian Frys).
+
+        18. White Villeroy.
+
+
+
+     Soups
+
+        19. Clear Soup.
+
+        20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup).
+
+        21. Soup alla Lombarda.
+
+        22. Tuscan Soup.
+
+        23. Venetian Soup.
+
+        24. Roman Soup.
+
+        25. Soup alla Nazionale.
+
+        26. Soup alla Modanese.
+
+        27. Crotopo Soup.
+
+        28. Soup all'Imperatrice.
+
+        29. Neapolitan Soup.
+
+        30. Soup with Risotto.
+
+        31. Soup alla Canavese.
+
+        32. Soup alla Maria l'ia.
+
+        33. Zuppa d'Erbe (Lettuce Soup).
+
+        34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's soup).
+
+
+
+     Minestre
+
+        35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c.
+
+        36. Minestra alla Casalinga.
+
+        37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips.
+
+        38. Minestra alla Capucina.
+
+        39. Minestra of Semolina.
+
+        40. Minestrone alla Milanese.
+
+        41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage.
+
+        42. Minestra of Rice and Celery.
+
+        43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels).
+
+        44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish).
+
+        45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster).
+
+        46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod).
+
+        47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet).
+
+        48. Mullet alla Tolosa.
+
+        49. Mullet alla Triestina.
+
+        50. Whiting alla Genovese.
+
+        51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod).
+
+        52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod).
+
+        53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock).
+
+        54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting).
+
+        55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters).
+
+        56. Ostriche alla Napolitana  (Oysters).
+
+        57. Ostriche alla Neneziana (Oysters).
+
+        58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish).
+
+        59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot).
+
+        60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole).
+
+        61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole).
+
+        62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole).
+
+        63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole).
+
+        64. Sogliole alla parmigiana (Sole).
+
+        65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon).
+
+        66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon).
+
+        67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon).
+
+        68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon).
+
+        69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon).
+
+        70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon).
+
+        71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte.
+
+
+
+     Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &c.
+
+        72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef).
+
+        73. Stufato alla Fiorentina (Stewed Beef).
+
+        74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak).
+
+        75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives).
+
+        76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef).
+
+        77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef).
+
+        78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef).
+
+        79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef).
+
+        80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios).
+
+        81. Scalopini di Rizo (Beef with Risotto).
+
+        82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal).
+
+        83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets).
+
+        84. Costolette alla Monza (Veal Cutlets).
+
+        85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal).
+
+        86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal).
+
+        87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives).
+
+        88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal).
+
+        89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets).
+
+        90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton).
+
+        91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton).
+
+        92. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb).
+
+        93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb).
+
+        94. Costoletto d'Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets).
+
+
+
+     Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &c.
+
+        95. Timballo alla Romana.
+
+        96. Timballo alla Lombarda.
+
+        97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue).
+
+        98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber).
+
+        99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues).
+
+       100.. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues).
+
+       101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig).
+
+       102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig).
+
+       103. Ateletti alla Sarda.
+
+       104. Ateletti alla Genovese.
+
+       105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head).
+
+       106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's head).
+
+       107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head).
+
+       108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head).
+
+       109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head).
+
+       110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet).
+
+       111. Bodini Marinati.
+
+       112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread).
+
+       113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread).
+
+       114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread).
+
+       115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread).
+
+       116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbreads and
+     Mushrooms).
+
+       117. Cervello in Filiserbe (Calf's Brains).
+
+       118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's Brains).
+
+       119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains).
+
+       120. Frittuta of Cervello (Calf's Brains).
+
+       121. Cervello alla Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains).
+
+       122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains).
+
+       123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread).
+
+       124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry).
+
+       125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy.
+
+       126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese.
+
+       127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers).
+
+       128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' Livers).
+
+       129. Croutons alla Principessa.
+
+       130. Croutons alla Romana.
+
+
+
+     Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c.
+
+       131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle).
+
+       132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken).
+
+       133. Pollo ali'Oliva (Chicken).
+
+       134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken).
+
+       135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken).
+
+       136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl).
+
+       137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl).
+
+       138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl).
+
+       139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice).
+
+       140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey).
+
+       141. Tacchinotto all'Istriona (Turkey Poult).
+
+       142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant).
+
+       143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant).
+
+       144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck).
+
+       145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges).
+
+       146. Piccioni alla Diplomatica (Snipe).
+
+       147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons)
+
+       148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons).
+
+       149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare).
+
+       150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare).
+
+       151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit).
+
+       152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit).
+
+       153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit).
+
+
+
+     Vegetables
+
+       154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus).
+
+       155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts).
+
+       156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot).
+
+       157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans).
+
+       158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage).
+
+       159. Cavoli fiori alla Lionese (Cauliflower).
+
+       160. Cavoli fiori fritti (Cauliflower).
+
+       161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana.
+
+       162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni.
+
+       163. Sedani alla l'armigiana (Celery).
+
+       164. Sedani Fritti all'Italiana (Celery).
+
+       165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber).
+
+       166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber).
+
+       167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots).
+
+       168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and peas).
+
+       169. Verze alla Certosina (Cabbage).
+
+       170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce).
+
+       171. Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce).
+
+       172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms).
+
+       173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables).
+
+       174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream).
+
+       175. Cestelline cli patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes).
+
+       176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce).
+
+       177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach).
+
+       178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad).
+
+       179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad).
+
+       180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad).
+
+       181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles).
+
+
+
+     Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, All Other Italian Pastes
+
+       182. Macaroni with Tomatoes Macaroni alla Casalinga.
+
+       183. Macaroni al Sughillo.
+
+       184. Macaroni alla Livornese.
+
+       186. Tagliarelle and Lobster.
+
+       187. Polenta.
+
+       188. Polenta Pasticciata.
+
+       189. Battuffoli.
+
+       190. Risotto all'Italiana.
+
+       191. Risotto alla Genoxese.
+
+       192. Risotto alla Spagnuola.
+
+       193. Risotto alla Capuccina.
+
+       194. Risotto alla Parigina.
+
+       195. Ravioli.
+
+       196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina.
+
+       197. Gnoechi alla Romana.
+
+       198. Gnoechi alla Lombarda.
+
+       199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake).
+
+
+
+     Omelettes and Other Egg Dishes
+
+       200. Uova ai Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles).
+
+       201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes).
+
+       202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg).
+
+       203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs).
+
+       204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes).
+
+       205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette).
+
+       206. Frittata eon Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette).
+
+       207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette).
+
+       208. Frittata eon erbe (Omelette with Herbs).
+
+       209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle').
+
+       210. Frittata di Proseiutto (Ham Omelette).
+
+
+
+     Sweets and Cakes
+
+       211. Bodino off Semolina.
+
+       212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream).
+
+       213. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream).
+
+       214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat).
+
+       215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream).
+
+       216. Cremona Cake.
+
+       217. Cake alla Tolentina.
+
+       218. Riso all'Imperatrice.
+
+       219. Amaretti leggier (Almond Cakes).
+
+       220. Cakes alla Livornese.
+
+       221. Genoese Pastry.
+
+       222. Zabajone.
+
+       223. Iced Zabajone.
+
+       224. Panforte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake).
+
+
+
+     New Century Sauce
+
+       225. Fish Sauce.
+
+       226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.).
+
+       227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c.
+
+       228. Tomato Sauce Piquante.
+
+       229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c.
+
+       230. For masking Cutlets, &c.
+
+
+
+
+PART I. THE COOK'S DECAMERON
+
+
+
+
+Prologue
+
+The Marchesa di Sant'Andrea finished her early morning cup of tea, and
+then took up the batch of correspondence which her maid had placed on
+the tray. The world had a way of treating her in kindly fashion, and
+hostile or troublesome letters rarely veiled their ugly faces under the
+envelopes addressed to her; wherefore the perfection of that pleasant
+half-hour lying between the last sip of tea and the first step to meet
+the new day was seldom marred by the perusal of her morning budget. The
+apartment which she graced with her seemly presence was a choice one in
+the Mayfair Hotel, one which she had occupied for the past four or five
+years during her spring visit to London; a visit undertaken to keep
+alive a number of pleasant English friendships which had begun in Rome
+or Malta. London had for her the peculiar attraction it has for so many
+Italians, and the weeks she spent upon its stones were commonly the
+happiest of the year.
+
+The review she took of her letters before breaking the seals first
+puzzled her, and then roused certain misgivings in her heart. She
+recognised the handwriting of each of the nine addresses, and at the
+same time recalled the fact that she was engaged to dine with every one
+of the correspondents of this particular morning. Why should they all
+be writing to her? She had uneasy forebodings of postponement, and she
+hated to have her engagements disturbed; but it was useless to prolong
+suspense, so she began by opening the envelope addressed in the familiar
+handwriting of Sir John Oglethorpe, and this was what Sir John had to
+say--
+
+"My Dear Marchesa, words, whether written or spoken, are powerless to
+express my present state of mind. In the first place, our dinner on
+Thursday is impossible, and in the second, I have lost Narcisse and
+forever. You commented favourably upon that supreme of lobster and the
+Ris de Veau a la Renaissance we tasted last week, but never again
+will you meet the handiwork of Narcisse. He came to me with admirable
+testimonials as to his artistic excellence; with regard to his moral
+past I was, I fear, culpably negligent, for I now learn that all the
+time he presided over my stewpans he was wanted by the French police on
+a charge of murdering his wife. A young lady seems to have helped him;
+so I fear Narcisse has broken more than one of the commandments in
+this final escapade. The truly great have ever been subject to
+these momentary aberrations, and Narcisse being now in the hands of
+justice--so called--our dinner must needs stand over, though not, I
+hope, for long. Meantime the only consolation I can perceive is the
+chance of a cup of tea with you this afternoon."
+
+"J. O."
+
+Sir John Oglethorpe had been her husband's oldest and best friend. He
+and the Marchesa had first met in Sardinia, where they had both of them
+gone in pursuit of woodcock, and since the Marchesa had been a widow,
+she and Sir John had met either in Rome or in London every year. The
+dinner so tragically manque had been arranged to assemble a number of
+Anglo-Italian friends; and, as Sir John was as perfect as a host as
+Narcisse was as a cook, the disappointment was a heavy one. She threw
+aside the letter with a gesture of vexation, and opened the next.
+
+"Sweetest Marchesa," it began, "how can I tell you my grief at having
+to postpone our dinner for Friday. My wretched cook (I gave her
+seventy-five pounds a year), whom I have long suspected of intemperate
+habits, was hopelessly inebriated last night, and had to be conveyed out
+of the house by my husband and a dear, devoted friend who happened to be
+dining with us, and deposited in a four-wheeler. May I look in tomorrow
+afternoon and pour out my grief to you? Yours cordially,
+
+"Pamela St. Aubyn Fothergill."
+
+When the Marchesa had opened four more letters, one from Lady Considine,
+one from Mrs. Sinclair, one from Miss Macdonnell, and one from Mrs.
+Wilding, and found that all these ladies were obliged to postpone their
+dinners on account of the misdeeds of their cooks, she felt that the
+laws of average were all adrift. Surely the three remaining letters
+must contain news of a character to counterbalance what had already been
+revealed, but the event showed that, on this particular morning,
+Fortune was in a mood to strike hard. Colonel Trestrail, who gave in
+his chambers carefully devised banquets, compounded by a Bengali who was
+undoubtedly something of a genius, wrote to say that this personage had
+left at a day's notice, in order to embrace Christianity and marry a
+lady's-maid who had just come into a legacy of a thousand pounds under
+the will of her late mistress. Another correspondent, Mrs. Gradinger,
+wrote that her German cook had announced that the dignity of womanhood
+was, in her opinion, slighted by the obligation to prepare food for
+others in exchange for mere pecuniary compensation. Only on condition of
+the grant of perfect social equality would she consent to stay, and Mrs.
+Gradinger, though she held advanced opinions, was hardly advanced far
+enough to accept this suggestion. Last of all, Mr. Sebastian van der
+Roet was desolate to announce that his cook, a Japanese, whose dishes
+were, in his employer's estimation, absolute inspirations, had decamped
+and taken with him everything of value he could lay hold of; and more
+than desolate, that he was forced to postpone the pleasure of welcoming
+the Marchesa di Sant' Andrea at his table.
+
+When she had finished reading this last note, the Marchesa gathered the
+whole mass of her morning's correspondence together, and uttering a few
+Italian words which need not be translated, rolled it into a ball and
+hurled the same to the farthest corner of the room. "How is it," she
+ejaculated, "that these English, who dominate the world abroad, cannot
+get their food properly cooked at home? I suppose it is because they, in
+their lofty way, look upon cookery as a non-essential, and consequently
+fall victims to gout and dyspepsia, or into the clutches of some
+international brigandaccio, who declares he is a cordon bleu. One hears
+now and again pleasant remarks about the worn-out Latin races, but I
+know of one Latin race which can do better than this in cookery." And
+having thus delivered herself, the Marchesa lay back on the pillows and
+reviewed the situation.
+
+She was sorry in a way to miss the Colonel's dinner. The dishes which
+the Bengali cook turned out were excellent, but the host himself was
+a trifle dictatorial and too fond of the sound of his own voice, while
+certain of the inevitable guests were still worse. Mrs. Gradinger's
+letter came as a relief; indeed the Marchesa had been wondering why
+she had ever consented to go and pretend to enjoy herself by eating
+an ill-cooked dinner in company with social reformers and educational
+prigs. She really went because she liked Mr. Gradinger, who was as
+unlike his wife as possible, a stout youth of forty, with a breezy
+manner and a decided fondness for sport. Lady Considine's dinners were
+indifferent, and the guests were apt to be a bit too smart and too
+redolent of last season's Monte Carlo odour. The Sinclairs gave good
+dinners to perfectly selected guests, and by reason of this virtue,
+one not too common, the host and hostess might be pardoned for being
+a little too well satisfied with themselves and with their last new
+bibelot. The Fothergill dinners were like all other dinners given by the
+Fothergills of society. They were costly, utterly undistinguished, and
+invariably graced by the presence of certain guests who seemed to have
+been called in out of the street at the last moment. Van der Roet's
+Japanese menus were curious, and at times inimical to digestion, but
+the personality of the host was charming. As to Sir John Oglethorpe, the
+question of the dinner postponed troubled her little: another repast,
+the finest that London's finest restaurant could furnish, would
+certainly be forthcoming before long. In Sir John's case, her
+discomposure took the form of sympathy for her friend in his recent
+bereavement. He had been searching all his life for a perfect cook,
+and he had found, or believed he had found, such an one in Narcisse;
+wherefore the Marchesa was fully persuaded that, if that artist should
+evade the guillotine, she would again taste his incomparable handiwork,
+even though he were suspected of murdering his whole family as well as
+the partner of his joys.
+
+That same afternoon a number of the balked entertainers foregathered in
+the Marchesa's drawing-room, the dominant subject of discourse being the
+approaching dissolution of London society from the refusal of one human
+to cook food for another. Those present were gathered in two groups. In
+one the Colonel, in spite of the recent desertion of his Oriental,
+was asserting that the Government should be required to bring over
+consignments of perfectly trained Indian cooks, and thus trim the
+balance between dining room and kitchen; and to the other Mrs.
+Gradinger, a gaunt, ill-dressed lady in spectacles, with a commanding
+nose and dull, wispy hair, was proclaiming in a steady metallic voice,
+that it was absolutely necessary to double the school rate at once
+in order to convert all the girls and some of the boys as well, into
+perfectly equipped food-cooking animals; but her audience gradually fell
+away, and in an interval of silence the voice of the hostess was heard
+giving utterance to a tentative suggestion.
+
+"But, my dear, it is inconceivable that the comfort and the movement of
+society should depend on the humours of its servants. I don't blame them
+for refusing to cook if they dislike cooking, and can find other work as
+light and as well paid; but, things being as they are, I would suggest
+that we set to work somehow to make ourselves independent of cooks."
+
+"That 'somehow' is the crux, my dear Livia," said Mrs. Sinclair. "I have
+a plan of my own, but I dare not breathe it, for I'm sure Mrs. Gradinger
+would call it 'anti-social,' whatever that may mean."
+
+"I should imagine that it is a term which might be applied to any scheme
+which robs society of the ministrations of its cooks," said Sir John.
+
+"I have heard mathematicians declare that what is true of the whole is
+true of its parts," said the Marchesa. "I daresay it is, but I never
+stopped to inquire. I will amplify on my own account, and lay down
+that what is true of the parts must be true of the whole. I'm sure that
+sounds quite right. Now I, as a unit of society, am independent of cooks
+because I can cook myself, and if all the other units were independent,
+society itself would be independent--ecco!"
+
+"To speak in this tone of a serious science like Euclid seems rather
+frivolous," said Mrs. Gradinger. "I may observe--" but here mercifully
+the observation was checked by the entry of Mrs. St. Aubyn Fothergill.
+
+She was a handsome woman, always dominated by an air of serious
+preoccupation, sumptuously, but not tastefully dressed. In the social
+struggle upwards, wealth was the only weapon she possessed, and wealth
+without dexterity has been known to fail before this. She made efforts,
+indeed, to imitate Mrs. Sinclair in the elegancies of menage, and to
+pose as a woman of mind after the pattern of Mrs. Gradinger; but
+the task first named required too much tact, and the other powers of
+endurance which she did not possess.
+
+"You'll have some tea, Mrs. Fothergill?" said the Marchesa. "It's so
+good of you to have come."
+
+"No, really, I can't take any tea; in fact, I couldn't take any lunch
+out of vexation at having to put you off, my dear Marchesa."
+
+"Oh, these accidents will occur. We were just discussing the best way of
+getting round them," said the Marchesa. "Now, dear,"--speaking to Mrs.
+Sinclair--"let's have your plan. Mrs. Gradinger has fastened like a
+leech on the Canon and Mrs. Wilding, and won't hear a word of what you
+have to say."
+
+"Well, my scheme is just an amplification of your mathematical
+illustrations, that we should all learn to cook for ourselves. I regard
+it no longer as impossible, or even difficult, since you have informed
+us that you are a mistress of the art. We'll start a new school of
+cookery, and you shall teach us all you know."
+
+"Ah, my dear Laura, you are like certain English women in the hunting
+field. You are inclined to rush your fences," said the Marchesa with a
+deprecatory gesture. "And just look at the people gathered here in
+this room. Wouldn't they--to continue the horsey metaphor--be rather an
+awkward team to drive?"
+
+"Not at all, if you had them in suitable surroundings. Now, supposing
+some beneficent millionaire were to lend us for a month or so a nice
+country house, we might install you there as Mistress of the stewpans,
+and sit at your feet as disciples," said Mrs. Sinclair.
+
+"The idea seems first-rate," said Van der Roet; "and I suppose, if we
+are good little boys and girls, and learn our lessons properly, we may
+be allowed to taste some of our own dishes."
+
+"Might not that lead to a confusion between rewards and punishments?"
+said Sir John.
+
+"If ever it comes to that," said Miss Macdonnell with a mischievous
+glance out of a pair of dark, flashing Celtic eyes, "I hope that our
+mistress will inspect carefully all pupils' work before we are asked
+to eat it. I don't want to sit down to another of Mr. Van der Roet's
+Japanese salads made of periwinkles and wallflowers."
+
+"And we must first catch our millionaire," said the Colonel.
+
+During these remarks Mrs. Fothergill had been standing "with parted lips
+and straining eyes," the eyes of one who is seeking to "cut in." Now
+came her chance. "What a delightful idea dear Mrs. Sinclair's is. We
+have been dreadfully extravagant this year over buying pictures, and
+have doubled our charitable subscriptions, but I believe I can still
+promise to act in a humble way the part of Mrs. Sinclair's millionaire.
+We have just finished doing up the 'Laurestinas,' a little place we
+bought last year, and it is quite at your service, Marchesa, as soon as
+you liketo occupy it."
+
+This unlooked-for proposition almost took away the Marchesa's breath.
+"Ah, Mrs. Fothergill," she said, "it was Mrs. Sinclair's plan, not mine.
+She kindly wishes to turn me into a cook for I know not how long, just
+at the hottest season of the year, a fate I should hardly have chosen
+for myself."
+
+"My dear, it would be a new sensation, and one you would enjoy beyond
+everything. I am sure it is a scheme every one here will hail with
+acclamation," said Mrs. Sinclair. All other conversation had now ceased,
+and the eyes of the rest of the company were fixed on the speaker.
+"Ladies and gentlemen," she went on, "you have heard my suggestion, and
+you have heard Mrs. Fothergill's most kind and opportune offer of her
+country house as the seat of our school of cookery. Such an opportunity
+is one in ten thousand. Surely all of us---even the Marchesa--must see
+that it is one not to be neglected."
+
+"I approve thoroughly," said Mrs. Gradinger; "the acquisition of
+knowledge, even in so material a field as that of cookery, is always a
+clear gain."
+
+"It will give Gradinger a chance to put in a couple of days at Ascot,"
+whispered Van der Roet.
+
+"Where Mrs. Gradinger leads, all must follow," said Miss Macdonnell.
+"Take the sense of the meeting, Mrs. Sinclair, before the Marchesa has
+time to enter a protest."
+
+"And is the proposed instructress to have no voice in the matter?" said
+the Marchesa, laughing.
+
+"None at all, except to consent," said Mrs. Sinclair; "you are going to
+be absolute mistress over us for the next fortnight, so you surely might
+obey just this once."
+
+"You have been denouncing one of our cherished institutions, Marchesa,"
+said Lady Considine, "so I consider you are bound to help us to replace
+the British cook by something better."
+
+"If Mrs. Sinclair has set her heart on this interesting experiment. You
+may as well consent at once, Marchesa," said the Colonel, "and teach
+us how to cook, and--what may be a harder task--to teach us to eat what
+other aspirants may have cooked."
+
+"If this scheme really comes off," said Sir John, "I would suggest that
+the Marchesa should always be provided with a plate of her own up her
+sleeve--if I may use such an expression--so that any void in the menu,
+caused by failure on the part of the under-skilled or over-ambitious
+amateur, may be filled by what will certainly be a chef-d'oeuvre."
+
+"I shall back up Mrs. Sinclair's proposition with all my power," said
+Mrs. Wilding. "The Canon will be in residence at Martlebridge for
+the next month, and I would much rather be learning cookery under the
+Marchesa than staying with my brother-in-law at Ealing."
+
+"You'll have to do it, Marchesa," said Van der Roet; "when a new idea
+catches on like this, there's no resisting it."
+
+"Well, I consent on one condition--that my rule shall be absolute,"
+said the Marchesa, "and I begin my career as an autocrat by giving
+Mrs. Fothergill a list of the educational machinery I shall want, and
+commanding her to have them all ready by Tuesday morning, the day on
+which I declare the school open."
+
+A chorus of applause went up as soon as the Marchesa ceased speaking.
+
+"Everything shall be ready," said Mrs. Fothergill, radiant with delight
+that her offer had been accepted, "and I will put in a full staff of
+servants selected from our three other establishments."
+
+"Would it not be as well to send the cook home for a holiday?" said the
+Colonel. "It might be safer, and lead to less broth being spoilt."
+
+"It seems," said Sir John, "that we shall be ten in number, and I would
+therefore propose that, after an illustrious precedent, we limit our
+operations to ten days. Then if we each produce one culinary poem a day
+we shall, at the end of our time, have provided the world with a hundred
+new reasons for enjoying life, supposing, of course, that we have no
+failures. I propose, therefore, that our society be called the 'New
+Decameron.'"
+
+"Most appropriate," said Miss Macdonnell, "especially as it owes its
+origin to an outbreak of plague--the plague in the kitchen."
+
+
+
+
+The First Day
+
+On the Tuesday morning the Marchesa travelled down to the "Laurestinas,"
+where she found that Mrs. Fothergill had been as good as her word.
+Everything was in perfect order. The Marchesa had notified to her pupils
+that they must report themselves that same evening at dinner, and she
+took down with her her maid, one of those marvellous Italian servants
+who combine fidelity with efficiency in a degree strange to the denizens
+of more progressive lands. Now, with Angelina's assistance, she proposed
+to set before the company their first dinner all'Italiana, and the last
+they would taste without having participated in the preparation. The
+real work was to begin the following morning.
+
+The dinner was both a revelation and a surprise to the majority of
+the company. All were well travelled, and all had eaten of the mongrel
+French dishes given at the "Grand" hotels of the principal Italian
+cities, and some of them, in search of adventures, had dined at London
+restaurants with Italian names over the doors, where--with certain
+honourable exceptions--the cookery was French, and not of the best,
+certain Italian plates being included in the carte for a regular
+clientele, dishes which would always be passed over by the English
+investigator, because he now read, or tried to read, their names for the
+first time. Few of the Marchesa's pupils had ever wandered away from
+the arid table d'hote in Milan, or Florence, or Rome, in search of the
+ristorante at which the better class of townsfolk were wont to take
+their colazione. Indeed, whenever an Englishman does break fresh ground
+in this direction, he rarely finds sufficient presence of mind to
+controvert the suggestions of the smiling minister who, having spotted
+his Inglese, at once marks down an omelette aux fines herbes and a
+biftek aux pommes as the only food such a creature can consume. Thus the
+culinary experiences of Englishmen in Italy have led to the perpetuation
+of the legend that the traveller can indeed find decent food in the
+large towns, "because the cooking there is all French, you know," but
+that, if he should deviate from the beaten track, unutterable horrors,
+swimming in oil and reeking with garlic, would be his portion. Oil
+and garlic are in popular English belief the inseparable accidents
+of Italian cookery, which is supposed to gather its solitary claim to
+individuality from the never-failing presence of these admirable, but
+easily abused, gifts of Nature.
+
+"You have given us a delicious dinner, Marchesa," said Mrs. Wilding
+as the coffee appeared. "You mustn't think me captious in my
+remarks--indeed it would be most ungracious to look a gift-dinner in
+the--What are you laughing at, Sir John? I suppose I've done something
+awful with my metaphors--mixed them up somehow."
+
+"Everything Mrs. Wilding mixes will be mixed admirably, as admirably,
+say, as that sauce which was served with the Manzo alla Certosina," Sir
+John replied.
+
+"That is said in your best style, Sir John," replied Mrs. Wilding; "but
+what I was going to remark was, that I, as a poor parson's wife, shall
+ask for some instruction in inexpensive cooking before we separate.
+The dinner we have just eaten is surely only within the reach of rich
+people."
+
+"I wish some of the rich people I dine with could manage now and then to
+reach a dinner as good," said the Colonel.
+
+"I believe it is a generally received maxim, that if you want a truth
+to be accepted you must repeat the same in season and out, whenever you
+have the opportunity," said the Marchesa. "The particular truth I have
+now in mind is the fact that Italian cookery is the cookery of a poor
+nation, of people who have scant means wherewith to purchase the very
+inferior materials they must needs work with; and that they produce
+palatable food at all is, I maintain, a proof that they bring high
+intelligence to the task. Italian culinary methods have been developed
+in the struggle when the cook, working with an allowance upon which an
+English cook would resign at once, has succeeded by careful manipulation
+and the study of flavouring in turning out excellent dishes made of fish
+and meat confessedly inferior. Now, if we loosen the purse-strings
+a little, and use the best English materials, I affirm that we shall
+achieve a result excellent enough to prove that Italian cookery is
+worthy to take its stand beside its great French rival. I am glad Mrs.
+Wilding has given me an opportunity to impress upon you all that its
+main characteristics are simplicity and cheapness, and I can assure her
+that, even if she should reproduce the most costly dishes of our course,
+she will not find any serious increase in her weekly bills. When I use
+the word simplicity, I allude, of course, to everyday cooking. Dishes of
+luxury in any school require elaboration, care, and watchfulness."
+
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner {*}
+
+  Zuppa d'uova alla Toscana.     Tuscan egg-soup.
+  Sogliole alla Livornese.       Sole alla Livornese.
+  Manzo alla Certosina.          Fillet of beef, Certosina sauce.
+  Minuta alla Milanese.          Chickens' livers alla Milanese.
+  Cavoli fiodi ripieni.          Cauliflower with forcemeat.
+  Cappone arrosto con insalata.  Roast capon with salad.
+  Zabajone.                      Spiced custard.
+  Uova al pomidoro.              Eggs and tomatoes.
+
+
+     * The recipes for the dishes contained in all these menus
+     will be found in the second part of the book.  The limits of
+     the seasons have necessarily been ignored.
+
+
+
+
+The Second Day
+
+Wednesday's luncheon was anticipated with some curiosity, or even
+searchings of heart, as in it would appear the first-fruits of the hand
+of the amateur. The Marchesa wisely restricted it to two dishes, for the
+compounding of which she requisitioned the services of Lady Considine,
+Mrs. Sinclair, and the Colonel. The others she sent to watch Angelina
+and her circle while they were preparing the vegetables and the dinner
+entrees. After the luncheon dishes had been discussed, they were both
+proclaimed admirable. It was a true bit of Italian finesse on the part
+of the Marchesa to lay a share of the responsibility of the first meal
+upon the Colonel, who was notoriously the most captious and the hardest
+to please of all the company; and she did even more than make him
+jointly responsible, for she authorised him to see to the production
+of a special curry of his own invention, the recipe for which he always
+carried in his pocket-book, thus letting India share with Italy in the
+honours of the first luncheon.
+
+"My congratulations to you on your curry, Colonel Trestrail," said Miss
+Macdonnell. "You haven't followed the English fashion of flavouring a
+curry by emptying the pepper-pot into the dish?"
+
+"Pepper properly used is the most admirable of condiments," the Colonel
+said.
+
+"Why this association of the Colonel and pepper?" said Van der Roet.
+"In this society we ought to be as nice in our phraseology as in our
+flavourings, and be careful to eschew the incongruous. You are coughing,
+Mrs. Wilding. Let me give you some water."
+
+"I think it must have been one of those rare grains of the Colonel's
+pepper, for you must have a little pepper in a curry, mustn't you,
+Colonel? Though, as Miss Macdonnell says, English cooks generally overdo
+it."
+
+"Vander is in one of his pleasant witty moods," said the Colonel, "but I
+fancy I know as much about the use of pepper as he does about the use of
+oil colours; and now we have, got upon art criticism, I may remark,
+my dear Vander, I have been reminded that you have been poaching on my
+ground. I saw a landscape of yours the other day, which looked as if
+some of my curry powder had got into the sunset. I mean the one poor
+blind old Wilkins bought at your last show."
+
+"Ah, but that sunset was an inspiration, Colonel, and consequently
+beyond your comprehension."
+
+"It is easy to talk of inspiration," said Sir John, "and, perhaps, now
+that we are debating a matter of real importance, we might spend our
+time more profitably than in discussing what is and what is not a good
+picture. Some inspiration has been brought into our symposium, I venture
+to affirm that the brain which devised and the hand which executed the
+Tenerumi di Vitello we have just tasted, were both of them inspired. In
+the construction of this dish there is to be recognised a breath of the
+same afflatus which gave us the Florentine campanile, and the Medici
+tombs, and the portrait of Monna Lisa. When we stand before any one of
+these masterpieces, we realise at a glance how keen must have been the
+primal insight, and how strenuous the effort necessary for the evolution
+of so consummate an achievement; and, with the savour of the Tenerumi di
+Vitello still fresh, I feel that it deserves to be added to the list of
+Italian capo lavori. Now, as I was not fortunate enough to be included
+in the pupils' class this morning, I must beg the next time the dish
+is presented to us--and I imagine all present will hail its renaissance
+with joy--that I may be allowed to lend a hand, or even a finger, in its
+preparation."
+
+"Veal, with the possible exception of Lombard beef, is the best meat we
+get in Italy," said the Marchesa, "so an Italian cook, when he wants to
+produce a meat dish of the highest excellence, generally turns to veal
+as a basis. I must say that the breast of veal, which is the part we had
+for lunch today, is a somewhat insipid dish when cooked English fashion.
+That we have been able to put it before you in more palatable form, and
+to win for it the approval of such a connoisseur as Sir John Oglethorpe,
+is largely owing to the judicious use of that Italian terror--more dire
+to many English than paper-money or brigands--garlic."
+
+"The quantity used was infinitesimal," said Mrs. Sinclair, "but it seems
+to have been enough to subdue what I once heard Sir John describe as the
+pallid solidity of the innocent calf."
+
+"I fear the vein of incongruity in our discourse, lately noted by Van
+der Roet, is not quite exhausted," said Sir John. "The Colonel was up in
+arms on account of a too intimate association of his name with pepper,
+and now Mrs. Sinclair has bracketed me with the calf, a most useful
+animal, I grant, but scarcely one I should have chosen as a yokefellow;
+but this is a digression. To return to our veal. I had a notion that
+garlic had something to do with the triumph of the Tenerumi, and, this
+being the case, I think it would be well if the Marchesa were to give us
+a dissertation on the use of this invaluable product."
+
+"As Mrs. Sinclair says, the admixture of garlic in the dish in question
+was a very small one, and English people somehow never seem to realise
+that garlic must always be used sparingly. The chief positive idea they
+have of its characteristics is that which they gather from the odour of
+a French or Italian crowd of peasants at a railway station. The effect
+of garlic, eaten in lumps as an accompaniment to bread and cheese, is
+naturally awful, but garlic used as it should be used is the soul, the
+divine essence, of cookery. The palate delights in it without being able
+to identify it, and the surest proof of its charm is manifested by the
+flatness and insipidity which will infallibly characterise any dish
+usually flavoured with it, if by chance this dish should be prepared
+without it. The cook who can employ it successfully will be found to
+possess the delicacy of perception, the accuracy of judgment, and the
+dexterity of hand, which go to the formation of a great artist. It is a
+primary maxim, and one which cannot be repeated too often, that garlic
+must never be cut up and used as part of the material of any dish. One
+small incision should be made in the clove, which should be put into the
+dish during the process of cooking, and allowed to remain there until
+the cook's palate gives warning that flavour enough has been extracted.
+Then it must be taken out at once. This rule does not apply in equal
+degree to the use of the onion, the large mild varieties of which may
+be cooked and eaten in many excellent bourgeois dishes; but in all fine
+cooking, where the onion flavour is wanted, the same treatment which I
+have prescribed for garlic must be followed."
+
+The Marchesa gave the Colonel and Lady Considine a holiday that
+afternoon, and requested Mrs. Gradinger and Van der Roet to attend
+in the kitchen to help with the dinner. In the first few days of the
+session the main portion of the work naturally fell upon the Marchesa
+and Angelina, and in spite of the inroads made upon their time by
+the necessary directions to the neophytes, and of the occasional
+eccentricities of the neophytes' energies, the dinners and luncheons
+were all that could be desired. The Colonel was not quite satisfied with
+the flavour of one particular soup, and Mrs. Gradinger was of opinion
+that one of the entrees, which she wanted to superintend herself, but
+which the Marchesa handed over to Mrs. Sinclair, had a great deal too
+much butter in its composition. Her conscience revolted at the action of
+consuming in one dish enough butter to solace the breakfast-table of
+an honest working man for two or three days; but the faintness of these
+criticisms seemed to prove that every one was well satisfied with the
+rendering of the menu of the day.
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch
+
+  Tenerumi di Vitello.          Breast of veal.
+  Piccione alla minute.         Pigeons, braized with liver, &c.
+  Curry
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner
+
+  Zuppa alla nazionale.         Soup alla nazionale.
+  Salmone alla Genovese.        Salmon alla Genovese.
+  Costolette alla Costanza.     Mutton cutlets alla Costanza.
+  Fritto misto alla Villeroy.   Lamb's fry alla Villeroy.
+  Lattughe al sugo.             Stuffed Lettuce.
+  Dindo arrosto alla Milanese.  Roast turkey alla Milanese.
+  Crema montata alle fragole.   Strawberry cream.
+  Tartufi alla Dino.            Truffles alla Dino.
+
+
+
+
+The Third Day
+
+"I observe, dear Marchesa," said Mrs. Fothergill at breakfast on
+Thursday morning, "that we still follow the English fashion in our
+breakfast dishes. I have a notion that, in this particular especially,
+we gross English show our inferiority to the more spirituelles nations
+of the Continent, and I always feel a new being after the light meal of
+delicious coffee and crisp bread and delicate butter the first morning I
+awake in dear Paris."
+
+"I wonder how it happens, then, that two goes of fish, a plateful of
+omelette, and a round and a half of toast and marmalade are necessary to
+repair the waste of tissue in dear England?" Van der Roet whispered to
+Miss Macdonnell.
+
+"It must be the gross air of England or the gross nature of the--"
+
+The rest of Miss Macdonnell's remark was lost, as the Marchesa cried
+out in answer to Mrs. Fothergill, "But why should we have anything but
+English breakfast dishes in England? The defects of English cookery
+are manifest enough, but breakfast fare is not amongst them. In these
+England stands supreme; there is nothing to compare with them, and they
+possess the crowning merit of being entirely compatible with English
+life. I cannot say whether it may be the effect of the crossing, or of
+the climate on this side, or that the air of England is charged with
+some subtle stimulating quality, given off in the rush and strain of
+strenuous national life, but the fact remains that as soon as I find
+myself across the Channel I want an English breakfast. It seems that I
+am more English than certain of the English themselves, and I am sorry
+that Mrs. Fothergill has been deprived of her French roll and butter.
+I will see that you have it to-morrow, Mrs. Fothergill, and to make the
+illusion complete, I will order it to be sent to your room."
+
+"Oh no, Marchesa, that would be giving too much trouble, and I am
+sure you want all the help in the house to carry out the service as
+exquisitely as you do," said Mrs. Fothergill hurriedly, and blushing as
+well as her artistic complexion would allow.
+
+"I fancy," said Mrs. Sinclair, "that foreigners are taking to English
+breakfasts as well as English clothes. I noticed when I was last in
+Milan that almost every German or Italian ate his two boiled eggs for
+breakfast, the sign whereby the Englishman used to be marked for a
+certainty."
+
+"The German would probably call for boiled eggs when abroad on account
+of the impossibility of getting such things in his own country. No
+matter how often you send to the kitchen for properly boiled eggs in
+Germany, the result is always the same cold slush," said Mrs. Wilding;
+"and I regret to find that the same plague is creeping into the English
+hotels which are served by German waiters."
+
+"That is quite true," said the Marchesa; "but in England we have no time
+to concern ourselves with mere boiled eggs, delicious as they are. The
+roll of delicacies is long enough, or even too long without them. When
+I am in England, I always lament that we have only seven days a week and
+one breakfast a day, and when I am in Italy I declare that the reason
+why the English have overrun the world is because they eat such mighty
+breakfasts. Considering how good the dishes are, I wonder the breakfasts
+are not mightier than they are."
+
+"It always strikes me that our national barrenness of ideas appears as
+plainly in our breakfasts as anywhere," said Mrs. Gradinger. "There is a
+monotony about them which--"
+
+"Monotony!" interrupted the Colonel. "Why, I could dish you up a fresh
+breakfast every day for a month. Your conservative tendencies must be
+very strong, Mrs. Gradinger, if they lead you to this conclusion."
+
+"Conservative! On the contrary, I--that is, my husband--always votes for
+Progressive candidates at every election," said Mrs. Gradinger, dropping
+into her platform intonation, at the sound of which consternation arose
+in every breast. "I have, moreover, a theory that we might reform our
+diet radically, as well as all other institutions; but before I expound
+this, I should like to say a few words on the waste of wholesome food
+which goes on. For instance, I went for a walk in the woods yesterday
+afternoon, where I came upon a vast quantity of fungi which our ignorant
+middle classes would pronounce to be poisonous, but which I--in common
+with every child of the intelligent working-man educated in a board
+school where botany is properly taught--knew to be good for food."
+
+"Excuse me one moment," said Sir John, "but do they really use
+board-school children as tests to see whether toadstools are poisonous
+or not?"
+
+"I do not think anything I said justified such an inference," said Mrs.
+Gradinger in the same solemn drawl; "but I may remark that the children
+are taught from illustrated manuals accurately drawn and coloured. Well,
+to come back to the fungi, I took the trouble to measure the plot on
+which they were growing, and found it just ten yards square. The average
+weight of edible fungus per square yard was just an ounce, or a hundred
+and twelve pounds per acre. Now, there must be at least twenty millions
+of acres in the United Kingdom capable of producing these fungi without
+causing the smallest damage to any other crop, wherefore it seems that,
+owing to our lack of instruction, we are wasting some million tons
+of good food per annum; and I may remark that this calculation
+pre-supposes, that each fungus springs only once in the season; but I
+have reason to believe that certain varieties would give five or six
+gatherings between May and October, so the weight produced would be
+enormously greater than the quantity I have named."
+
+Here Mrs. Gradinger paused to finish her coffee, which was getting cold,
+and before she could resume, Sir John had taken up the parole. "I think
+the smaller weight will suffice for the present, until the taste for
+strange fungi has developed, or the pressure of population increased.
+And before stimulating a vastly increased supply, it will be necessary
+to extirpate the belief that all fungi, except the familiar mushroom,
+are poisonous, and perhaps to appoint an army of inspectors to see that
+only the right sort are brought to market."
+
+"Yes, and that will give pleasant and congenial employment to those
+youths of the working-classes who are ambitious of a higher career than
+that of their fathers," said Lady Considine, "and the ratepayers will
+rejoice, no doubt, that they are participating in the general elevation
+of the masses."
+
+"Perhaps Mrs. Gradinger will gather a few of her less deadly fungi, and
+cook them and eat them herself, pour encourager les autres," said Miss
+Macdonnell. "Then, if she doesn't die in agonies, we may all forswear
+beef and live on toadstools."
+
+"I certainly will," said Mrs. Gradinger; "and before we rise from table
+I should like--"
+
+"I fear we must hear your remarks at dinner, Mrs. Gradinger," said the
+Marchesa. "Time is getting on, and some of the dishes to-day are rather
+elaborate, so now to the kitchen."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch.
+
+  Risotto alla Genovese.                  Savoury rice.
+  Pollo alla Villereccia.                 Chicken alla Villereccia.
+  Lingue di Castrato alla cucinira.       Sheeps' tongues alla cucinira.
+
+  Menu--Dinner
+
+  Zuppa alla Veneziana.                   Venetian soup.
+  Sogliole alla giardiniera.              Sole with Vegetables.
+  Timballo alla Romana.                   Roman pie.
+  Petto di Castrato alla salsa di burro.  Breast of mutton with butter sauce.
+  Verdure miste.                          Mixed vegetables.
+  Crema rappresa.                         Coffee cream.
+  Ostriche alla Veneziana.                Oyster savoury.
+
+
+
+
+The Fourth Day
+
+THE Colonel was certainly the most severely critical member of the
+company. Up to the present juncture he had been sparing of censure, and
+sparing of praise likewise, but on this day, after lunch, he broke forth
+into loud praise of the dish of beef which appeared in the menu. After
+specially commending this dish he went on--
+
+"It seems to me that the dinner of yesterday and to-day's lunch bear
+the cachet of a fresh and admirable school of cookery. In saying this
+I don't wish to disparage the traditions which have governed the
+preparation of the delicious dishes put before us up to that date, which
+I have referred to as the parting of the ways, the date when the palate
+of the expert might detect a new hand upon the keys, a phrase once
+employed, I believe, with regard to some man who wrote poetry. To meet
+an old friend, or a thoroughly tested dish, is always pleasant, but old
+friends die or fall out, and old favourite dishes may come to pall at
+last; and for this reason I hold that the day which brings us a new
+friend or a new dish ought to be marked with white chalk."
+
+"And I think some wise man once remarked," said Sir John, "that the
+discovery of a dish is vastly more important than the discovery of a
+star, for we have already as many stars as we can possibly require, but
+we can never have too many dishes."
+
+"I was wondering whether any one would detect the variations I made
+yesterday, but I need not have wondered, with such an expert at table as
+Colonel Trestrail," said the Marchesa with a laugh. "Well, the Colonel
+has found me out; but from the tone of his remarks I think I may
+hope for his approval. At any rate, I'm sure he won't move a vote of
+censure."
+
+"If he does, we'll pack him off to town, and sentence him to dine at his
+club every day for a month," said Lady Considine.
+
+"What crime has this particular club committed?" said Mrs. Sinclair in a
+whisper.
+
+"Vote of censure! Certainly not," said the Colonel, with an angry
+ring in his voice. Mrs. Sinclair did not love him, and had calculated
+accurately the carrying power of her whisper. "That would be the basest
+ingratitude. I must, however, plead guilty to an attack of curiosity,
+and therefore I beg you, Marchesa, to let us into the secret of your
+latest inspiration."
+
+"Its origin was commonplace enough," said the Marchesa, "but in a way
+interesting. Once upon a time--more years ago than I care to remember--I
+was strolling about the Piazza Navona in Rome, and amusing myself by
+going from one barrow to another, and turning over the heaps of
+rubbish with which they were stocked. All the while I was innocently
+plagiarising that fateful walk of Browning's round the Riccardi Palace
+in Florence, the day when he bought for a lira the Romana homocidiorum.
+The world knows what was the outcome of Browning's purchase, but it will
+probably never fathom the full effect of mine. How do his lines run?"
+
+                                            "These
+    I picked the book from.  Five compeers in flank
+    Stood left and right of it as tempting more--
+    A dog's-eared Spicilegium, the fond tale
+    O' the frail one of the Flower, by young Dumas,
+    Vulgarised Horace for the use of schools,
+    The Life, Death, Miracles of Saint Somebody,
+    Saint Somebody Else, his Miracles, Death and Life."
+
+"Well, the choice which lay before me on one particular barrow was fully
+as wide, or perhaps wider than that which met the poet's eye, but after
+I had espied a little yellow paper-covered book with the title La Cucina
+Partenopea, overo il Paradiso dei gastronomi, I looked no farther. What
+infinite possibilities of pleasure might lie hidden under such a name.
+I secured it, together with the Story of Barlaam and Josaphat, for
+thirty-five centesimi, and handed over the coins to the hungry-eyed old
+man in charge, who regretted, I am sure, when he saw the eager look upon
+my face, that he had not marked the books a lira at least. I should now
+be a rich woman if I had spent all the money I have spent as profitably
+as those seven sold. Besides being a master in the art of cookery, the
+author was a moral philosopher as well; and he addresses his reader in
+prefatory words which bespeak a profound knowledge of life. He writes:
+'Though the time of man here on earth is passed in a never-ending
+turmoil, which must make him often curse the moment when he opened his
+eyes on such a world; though life itself must often become irksome
+or even intolerable, nevertheless, by God's blessing, one supreme
+consolation remains for this wretched body of ours. I allude to that
+moment when, the forces being spent and the stomach craving support, the
+wearied mortal sits down to face a good dinner. Here is to be found an
+effectual balm for the ills of life: something to drown all remembrance
+of our ill-humours, the worries of business, or even family quarrels.
+In sooth, it is only at table that a man may bid the devil fly away with
+Solomon and all his wisdom, and give himself up to an earthly delight,
+which is a pleasure and a profit at the same time.'"
+
+"The circumstances under which this precious book was found seem to
+suggest a culinary poem on the model of the 'Ring and the Book,"' said
+Mrs. Sinclair, "or we might deal with the story in practical shape by
+letting every one of us prepare the same dish. I fancy the individual
+renderings of the same recipe would vary quite as widely as the versions
+of the unsavoury story set forth in Mr. Browning's little poem."
+
+"I think we had better have a supplementary day for a trial of the sort
+Mrs. Sinclair suggests," said Miss Macdonnell. "I speak with the memory
+of a preparation of liver I tasted yesterday in the kitchen--one of the
+dishes which did not appear at dinner."
+
+"That is rather hard on the Colonel," said Van der Roet; "he did his
+best, and now, see how hard he is trying to look as if he didn't know
+what you are alluding to!"
+
+"I never in all my life--" the Colonel began; but the Marchesa, fearing
+a storm, interfered. "I have a lot more to tell you about my little
+Neapolitan book," she went on, "and I will begin by saying that, for the
+future, we cannot do better than make free use of it. The author opens
+with an announcement that he means to give exact quantities for every
+dish, and then, like a true Neapolitan, lets quantities go entirely,
+and adopts the rule-of-thumb system. And I must say I always find the
+question of quantities a difficult one. Some books give exact measures,
+each dish being reckoned enough for four persons, with instructions to
+increase the measures in proportion to the additional number of diners
+but here a rigid rule is impossible, for a dish which is to serve by
+itself, as a supper or a lunch, must necessarily be bigger than one
+which merely fills one place in a dinner menu. Quantities can be given
+approximately in many cases, but flavouring must always be a question of
+individual taste. Latitude must be allowed, for all cooks who can turn
+out distinguished work will be found to be endowed with imagination,
+and these, being artists, will never consent to follow a rigid rule of
+quantity. To put it briefly, cooks who need to be told everything, will
+never cook properly, even if they be told more than everything. And
+after all, no one takes seriously the quantities given by the chef of a
+millionaire or a prince; witness the cook of the Prince de Soubise, who
+demanded fifty hams for the sauces and garnitures of a single supper,
+and when the Prince protested that there could not possibly be found
+space for them all on the table, offered to put them all into a glass
+bottle no bigger than his thumb. Some of Francatelli's quantities are
+also prodigious, as, for instance, when to make a simple glaze he calls
+for three pounds of gravy beef, the best part of a ham, a knuckle of
+veal, an old hen, and two partridges."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch
+
+  Maccheroni al sugillo.               Macaroni with sausage and tomatoes.
+  Manzo in insalata.                   Beef, pressed and marinated.
+  Lingue di vitello all'Italiana.      Calves' tongues.
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner.
+
+  Zuppa alla Modanese.                 Modenese soup.
+  Merluzzo in salamoia.                Cod with sauce piquante.
+  Pollastro in istufa di pomidoro.     Stewed chicken with tomatoes.
+  Porcelletto farcito alla Corradino.  Stuffed suckling pig.
+  Insalata alla Navarino.              Navarino salad.
+  Bodino di semolino.                  Semolina pudding.
+  Frittura di cocozze.                 Fried cucumber.
+
+
+
+
+The Fifth Day
+
+The following day was very warm, and some half-dozen of the party
+wandered into the garden after lunch and took their coffee under a big
+chestnut tree on the lawn. "And this is the 16th of June," said Lady
+Considine. "Last year, on this very day, I started for Hombourg. I
+can't say I feel like starting for Hombourg, or any other place, just at
+present."
+
+"But why should any one of us want to go to Hombourg?" said Sir John.
+"Nobody can be afraid of gout with the admirable diet we enjoy here."
+
+"I beg you to speak for yourself, Sir John," said Lady Considine. "I
+have never yet gone to Hombourg on account of gout."
+
+"Of course not, my dear friend, of course not; there are so many reasons
+for going to Hombourg. There's the early rising, and the band, and the
+new people one may meet there, and the change of diet--especially the
+change of diet. But, you see, we have found our change of diet within an
+hour of London, so why--as I before remarked--should we want to rush off
+to Hombourg?"
+
+"I am a firm believer in that change of diet," said Mrs. Wilding,
+"though in the most respectable circles the true-bred Briton still talks
+about foreign messes, and affirms that anything else than plain British
+fare ruins the digestion. I must say my own digestion is none the worse
+for the holiday I am having from the preparations of my own 'treasure.'
+I think we all look remarkably well; and we don't quarrel or snap at
+each other, and it would be hard to find a better proof of wholesome
+diet than that."
+
+"But I fancied Mrs. Gradinger looked a little out of sorts this morning,
+and I'm sure she was more than a little out of temper when I asked her
+how soon we were to taste her dish of toadstools," said Miss Macdonnell.
+
+"I expect she had been making a trial of the British fungi in her
+bedroom," said Van der Roet; "and then, you see, our conversation isn't
+quite 'high toned' enough for her taste. We aren't sufficiently awake to
+the claims of the masses. Can any one explain to me why the people who
+are so full of mercy for the mass, are so merciless to the unit?"
+
+"That is her system of proselytising," said the Colonel, "and if she
+is content with outward conversion, it isn't a bad one. I often feel
+inclined to agree to any proposition she likes to put forward, and I
+would, if I could stop her talking by my submission."
+
+"You wouldn't do that, Colonel, even in your suavest mood," said Van
+der Roet; "but I hope somebody will succeed in checking her flow of
+discourse before long. I'm getting worn to a shadow by the grind of that
+awful voice."
+
+"I thought your clothes were getting a bit loose," said the Colonel,
+"but I put that phenomenon down to another reason. In spite of Mrs.
+Wilding's praise of our present style of cooking, I don't believe our
+friend Vander finds it substantial enough to sustain his manly bulk, and
+I'll tell you the grounds of my belief. A few mornings ago, when I was
+shaving, I saw the butcher bring into the house a splendid sirloin, and
+as no sirloin has appeared at table, I venture to infer that this
+joint was a private affair of Vander's, and that he, as well as Mrs.
+Gradinger, has been going in for bedroom cookery. Here comes the
+Marchesa; we'll ask her to solve the mystery."
+
+"I can account for the missing sirloin," said the Marchesa. "The Colonel
+is wrong for once. It went duly into the kitchen, and not to Mr. Van der
+Roet's bedroom; but I must begin with a slight explanation, or rather
+apology. Next to trial by jury, and the reverence paid to rank, and the
+horror of all things which, as poor Corney Grain used to say, 'are
+not nice,' I reckon the Sunday sirloin, cooked and served, one and
+indivisible as the typical fetish of the great English middle class.
+With this fact before my eyes, I can assure you I did not lightly lay a
+hand on its integrity. My friends, you have eaten that sirloin without
+knowing it. You may remember that yesterday after lunch the Colonel was
+loud in praise of a dish of beef. Well, that beef was a portion of the
+same, and not the best portion. The Manzo in insalata, which pleased
+the Colonel's palate, was that thin piece at the lower end, the chief
+function of which, when the sirloin is cooked whole, seems to lie in
+keeping the joint steady on the dish while paterfamilias carves it. It
+is never eaten in the dining-room hot, because every one justly prefers
+and goes for the under cut; neither does it find favour at lunch next
+day, for the reason that, as cold beef, the upper cut is unapproachable.
+I have never heard that the kitchen hankers after it inordinately;
+indeed, its ultimate destination is one of the unexplained mysteries of
+housekeeping. I hold that never, under any circumstances, should it be
+cooked with the sirloin, but always cut off and marinated and braized as
+we had it yesterday. Thus you get two hot dishes; our particular sirloin
+has given us three. The parts of this joint vary greatly in flavour, and
+in texture as well, and by accentuating this variation by treatment
+in the kitchen, you escape that monotony which is prone to pervade the
+table so long as the sirloin remains in the house. Mrs. Sinclair is
+sufficiently experienced as a housekeeper to know that the dish of
+fillets we had for dinner last night was not made from the under cut
+of one sirloin. It was by borrowing a little from the upper part that I
+managed to fill the dish, and I'm sure that any one who may have got
+one of the uppercut fillets had no cause to grumble. The Filetto di Bue
+which we had for lunch to-day was the residue of the upper cut, and,
+admirable as is a slice of cold beef taken from this part of the joint,
+I think it is an excellent variation to make a hot dish of it sometimes.
+On the score of economy, I am sure that a sirloin treated in this
+fashion goes a long way further."
+
+"The Marchesa demolishes one after another of our venerable institutions
+with so charming a despatch that we can scarcely grieve for them," said
+Sir John. "I am not philosopher enough to divine what change may come
+over the British character when every man sits down every day to
+a perfectly cooked dinner. It is sometimes said that our barbarian
+forefathers left their northern solitudes because they hankered after
+the wine and delicate meats of the south, and perhaps the modern Briton
+may have been led to overrun the world by the hope of finding a greater
+variety of diet than he gets at home. It may mean, Marchesa, that this
+movement of yours for the suppression of English plain cooking will mark
+the close of our national expansion."
+
+"My dear Sir John, you may rest assured that your national expansion, as
+well as your national cookery, will continue in spite of anything we
+may accomplish here, and I say good luck to them both. When have I ever
+denied the merits of English cookery?" said the Marchesa. "Many of its
+dishes are unsurpassed. These islands produce materials so fine, that no
+art or elaboration can improve them. They are best when they are cooked
+quite plainly, and this is the reason why simplicity is the key-note of
+English cookery. A fine joint of mutton roasted to a turn, a plain fried
+sole with anchovy butter a broiled chop or steak or kidney, fowls or
+game cooked English fashion, potatoes baked in their skins and eaten
+with butter and salt, a rasher of Wiltshire bacon and a new-laid egg,
+where will you beat these? I will go so far as to say no country can
+produce a bourgeoises dish which can be compared with steak and kidney
+pudding. But the point I want to press home is that Italian cookery
+comes to the aid of those who cannot well afford to buy those prime
+qualities of meat and fish which allow of this perfectly plain
+treatment. It is, as I have already said, the cookery of a nation short
+of cash and unblessed with such excellent meat and fish and vegetables
+as you lucky islanders enjoy. But it is rich in clever devices of
+flavouring, and in combinations, and I am sure that by its help English
+people of moderate means may fare better and spend less than they spend
+now, if only they will take a little trouble."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch
+
+  Gnocchi alla Romana.                  Semolina with parmesan.
+  Filetto di Bue al pistacchi.          Fillet of beef with pistachios
+  Bodini marinati.                      Marinated rissoles.
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner.
+
+  Zuppa Crotopo.                        Croute au pot soup.
+  Sogliole alla Veneziana.              Fillets of sole.
+  Ateletti alla Sarda.                  Atelets of ox-palates, &c.
+  Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda.  Mutton cutlets.
+  Pollo alla Fiorentina.                Fowl with macaroni.
+  Crema tartara alla Caramella.         Caramel cream.
+  Uova rimescolati al tartufi.          Eggs with truffles.
+
+
+
+
+The Sixth Day
+
+The following morning, at breakfast, a servant announced that Sir John
+Oglethorpe was taking his breakfast in his room, and that there was no
+need to keep anything in reserve for him. It was stated, however, that
+Sir John was in no way indisposed, and that he would join the party at
+lunch.
+
+He seated himself in his usual place, placid and fresh as ever; but,
+unharmed as he was physically, it was evident to all the company that
+he was suffering from some mental discomposure. Miss Macdonnell, with a
+frank curiosity which might have been trying in any one else, asked him
+point-blank the reason of his absence from the meal for which, in
+spite of his partiality for French cookery, he had a true Englishman's
+devotion.
+
+"I feel I owe the company some apology for my apparent churlishness," he
+said; "but the fact is, that I have received some very harrowing, but
+at the same time very interesting, news this morning. I think I told you
+the other day how the vacancy in my kitchen has led up to a very real
+tragedy, and that the abhorred Fury was already hovering terribly near
+the head of poor Narcisse. Well, I have just received from a friend in
+Paris journals containing a full account of the trial of Narcisse and of
+his fair accomplice. The worst has come to pass, and Narcisse has been
+doomed to sneeze into the basket like a mere aristocrat or politician
+during the Terror I was greatly upset by this news, but I was
+interested, and in a measure consoled, to find an enclosure amongst
+the other papers, an envelope addressed to me in the handwriting of the
+condemned man. This voix d'outre tombe, I rejoice to say, confides to
+me the secret of that incomparable sauce of his, a secret which I feared
+might be buried with Narcisse in the prison ditch."
+
+The Marchesa sighed as she listened. The recipe of the sauce was safe
+indeed, but she knew by experience how wide might be the gulf between
+the actual work of an artist and the product of another hand guided by
+his counsels, let the hand be ever so dexterous, and the counsels ever
+so clear. "Will it be too much," she said, "to ask you to give us the
+details of this painful tragedy?"
+
+"It will not," Sir John replied reflectively. "The last words of many a
+so-called genius have been enshrined in literature: probably no one
+will ever know the parting objurgation of Narcisse. I will endeavour,
+however, to give you some notion as to what occurred, from the budget
+I have just read. I fear the tragedy was a squalid one. Madame, the
+victim, was elderly, unattractive in person, exacting in temper, and
+the owner of considerable wealth--at least, this is what came out at
+the trial. It was one of those tangles in which a fatal denouement is
+inevitable; and, if this had not come through Mademoiselle Sidonie,
+it would have come through somebody else. The lovers plotted to remove
+madame by first drugging her, then breaking her skull with the
+wood chopper, and then pitching her downstairs so as to produce the
+impression that she had met her death in this fashion. But either the
+arm of Mademoiselle Sidonie--who was told off to do the hammering--was
+unskilled in such work, or the opiate was too weak, for the victim began
+to shriek before she gave up the ghost. Detection seemed imminent, so
+Narcisse, in whom the quality of discretion was evidently predominant,
+bolted at once and got out of the country. But the facts were absolutely
+clear. The victim lived long enough to depose that Mademoiselle Sidonie
+attacked her with the wood chopper, while Narcisse watched the door.
+The advocate of Narcisse did his work like a man. He shed the regulation
+measure of tears; he drew graphic pictures of the innocent youth of
+Narcisse, of his rise to eminence, and of his filial piety as evidenced
+by the frequent despatch of money and comestibles to his venerable
+mother, who was still living near Bourges. Once a year, too, this
+incomparable artist found time to renew his youth by a sojourn in the
+simple cottage which saw his birth, and by embracing the giver of
+his life. Was it possible that a man who treated one woman with such
+devotion and reverence could take the life of another? He adduced
+various and picturesque reasons to show that such an event must be
+impossible, but the jury took the opposite view. Some one had to be
+guillotined, and the intelligent jury decided that Paris could spare
+Narcisse better than it could spare Mademoiselle Sidonie. I fear the
+fact that he had deigned to sell his services to a brutal islander may
+have helped them to come to this conclusion, but there were other and
+more weighty reasons. Of the supreme excellence of Narcisse as an
+artist the jury knew nothing, so they let him go hang--or worse--but
+of Mademoiselle Sidonie they knew a good deal, and their knowledge, I
+believe, is shared by certain English visitors to Paris. She is one of
+the attractions of the Fantasies d'Arcadie, and her latest song, Bonjour
+Coco, is sung and whistled in every capital of Europe; so the jury,
+thrusting aside as mere pedantry the evidence of facts, set to work to
+find some verdict which would not eclipse the gaiety of La Ville Lumiere
+by cutting short the career of Mademoiselle Sidonie. The art of the chef
+appealed to only a few, and he dies a mute, but by no means inglorious
+martyr: the art of the chanteuse appeals to the million, the voice of
+the many carries the day, and Narcisse must die."
+
+"It is a revolting story," said Mrs. Gradinger, "and one possible only
+in a corrupted and corrupting society. It is wonderful, as Sir John
+remarks, how the conquering streams of tendency manifest themselves
+even in an affair like this. Ours is a democratic age, and the wants and
+desires of the many, who find delight in this woman's singing, override
+the whims of the pampered few, the employers of such costly luxuries as
+men cooks."
+
+"You see you are a mere worm, Sir John," laughed Miss Macdonnell, "and
+you had better lay out your length to be trampled on."
+
+"Yes, I have long foreseen our fate, we who happen to possess what our
+poor brother hankers after. Well, perhaps I may take up the worm's role
+at once and 'turn', that is, burn the recipe of Narcisse."
+
+"O Sir John, Sir John," cried Mrs. Sinclair "any such burning would
+remind me irresistibly of Mr. Mantalini's attempts at suicide. There
+would be an accurate copy in your pocket-book, and besides this you
+would probably have learnt off the recipe by heart."
+
+"Yes, we know our Sir John better than that, don't we?" said the
+Marchesa; "but, joking apart, Sir John, you might let me have the
+recipe at once. It would go admirably with one of our lunch dishes for
+to-morrow."
+
+But on the subject of the sauce, Sir John--like the younger Mr.
+Smallweed on the subject of gravy--was adamant. The wound caused by the
+loss of Narcisse was, he declared, yet too recent: the very odour of the
+sauce would provoke a thousand agonising regrets. And then the hideous
+injustice of it all: Narcisse the artist, comparatively innocent (for
+to artists a certain latitude must be allowed), to moulder in quicklime,
+and this greedy, sordid murderess to go on ogling and posturing with
+superadded popularity before an idiot crowd unable to distinguish a
+Remoulade from a Ravigotte! "No, my dear Marchesa," he said, "the secret
+of Narcisse must be kept a little longer, for, to tell the truth, I have
+an idea. I remember that ere this fortunes have been made out of sauces,
+and if this sauce be properly handled and put before the public, it may
+counteract my falling, or rather disappearing rents. If only I could
+hit upon a fetching name, and find twenty thousand pounds to spend in
+advertising, I might be able once more to live on my acres."
+
+"Oh, surely we shall be able to find you a name between us," said Mrs.
+Wilding; "money, and things of that sort are to be procured in the city,
+I believe; and I daresay Mr. Van der Roet will design a pretty label for
+the sauce bottles."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch.
+
+  Pollo all'olive.                    Fowl with olives.
+  Scaloppine di rive.                 Veal cutlets with rice.
+  Sedani alla parmigiana.             Stewed celery.
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner.
+
+  Zuppa primaverile.                  Spring soup
+  Sote di Salmone al funghi.          Salmon with mushrooms.
+  Tenerumi d'Agnello alla veneziana.  Breast of lamb alla Veneziana.
+  Testa di Vitello alla sorrentina.   Calf's head alla Sorrentina.
+  Fagiano alla perigo.                Pheasant with truffles.
+  Torta alla cremonese.               Cremona tart.
+  Uova alla fiorentina.               Egg savoury.
+
+
+
+
+The Seventh Day
+
+"It seems invidious to give special praise where everything is so good,"
+said Mrs. Sinclair next day at lunch, "but I must say a word about that
+clear soup we had at dinner last night. I have never ceased to regret
+that my regard for manners forbade me ask for a second helping."
+
+"See what it is to have no manners," said Van der Roet. "I plunged
+boldly for another portion of that admirable preparation of calf's head
+at dinner. If I hadn't, I should have regretted it for ever after.
+Now, I'm sure you are just as curious about the construction of these
+masterpieces as I am, Mrs. Sinclair, so we'll beg the Marchesa to let us
+into the secret."
+
+"Mrs. Sinclair herself had a hand in the calf's-head dish, 'Testa di
+Vitello alla sorrentina,' so perhaps I may hand over that part of the
+question to her. I am very proud that one of my pupils should have won
+praise from such a distinguished expert as Mr. Van der Roet, and I
+leave her to expound the mystery of its charm. I think I may without
+presumption claim the clear soup as a triumph, and it is a discovery of
+my own. The same calf's head which Mrs. Sinclair has treated with such
+consummate skill, served also as the foundation for the stock of the
+clear soup. This stock certainly derived its distinction from the
+addition of the liquor in which the head was boiled. A good consomme can
+no doubt be made with stock-meat alone, but the best soup thus made will
+be inferior to that we had for dinner last night. Without the calf's
+head you will never get such softness, combined with full roundness
+on the tongue, and the great merit of calf's head is that it lets you
+attain this excellence without any sacrifice of transparency."
+
+"I have marvelled often at the clearness of your soups, Marchesa,"
+said the Colonel. "What clearing do you use to make them look like pale
+sherry?"
+
+"No one has any claim to be called a cook who cannot make soup without
+artificial clearing," said the Marchesa. "Like the poet, the consomme
+is born, not made. It must be clear from the beginning, an achievement
+which needs care and trouble like every other artistic effort, but one
+nevertheless well within the reach of any student who means to succeed.
+To clear a soup by the ordinary medium of white of egg or minced beef
+is to destroy all flavour and individuality. If the stock be kept from
+boiling until it has been strained, it will develop into a perfectly
+clear soup under the hands of a careful and intelligent cook. The
+fleeting delicate aroma which, as every gourmet will admit, gives such
+grateful aid to the palate, is the breath of garden herbs and of herbs
+alone, and here I have a charge to bring against contemporary cookery. I
+mean the neglect of natural in favour of manufactured flavourings. With
+regard to herbs, this could not always have been the rule, for I never
+go into an old English garden without finding there a border with all
+the good old-fashioned pot herbs growing lustily. I do not say that the
+use of herbs is unknown, for of course the best cookery is impossible
+without them, but I fear that sage mixed with onion is about the only
+one which ever tickles the palate of the great English middle-class. And
+simultaneously with the use of herb flavouring in soup has arisen the
+practice of adding wine, which to me seems a very questionable one. If
+wine is put in soup at all, it must be used so sparingly as to render
+its presence imperceptible. Why then use it at all? In some sauces wine
+is necessary, but in all cases it is as difficult to regulate as garlic,
+and requires the utmost vigilance on the part of the cook."
+
+"My last cook, who was very stout and a little middle-aged, would always
+use flavouring sauces from the grocer's rather than walk up to the
+garden, where we have a most seductive herb bed," said Mrs. Wilding;
+"and then, again, the love of the English for pungent-made sauces is
+another reason for this makeshift practice. 'Oh, a table-spoonful of
+somebody's sauce will do for the flavouring,' and in goes the sauce, and
+the flavouring is supposed to be complete. People who eat their chops,
+and steaks, and fish, and game, after having smothered the natural
+flavour with the same harsh condiment, may be satisfied with a cuisine
+of this sort, but to an unvitiated palate the result is nauseous."
+
+"Yet as a Churchwoman, Mrs. Wilding, you ought to speak with respect
+of English sauces. I think I have heard how a libation of one of them,
+which was poured over a certain cathedral, has made it look as good as
+new," said Miss Macdonnell, "and we have lately learned that one of the
+most distinguished of our party is ambitious to enter the same career."
+
+"I would suggest that Sir John should devote all that money he proposes
+to make by the aid of his familiar spirit--the ghost of Narcisse--to the
+building of a temple in honour of the tenth muse, the muse of cookery,"
+said Mrs. Sinclair; "and what do you think, Sir John, of a name I dreamt
+of last night for your sauce, 'The New Century Sauce'? How will that
+do?"
+
+"Admirably," said Sir John after a moment's pause; "admirably enough to
+allow me to offer you a royalty on every bottle sold. 'The New Century
+Sauce', that's the name for me; and now to set to work to build the
+factory, and to order plans for the temple of the tenth muse."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch.
+
+  Maccheroni al pomidoro.        Macaroni with tomatoes,
+  Vitello alla pellegrina.       Veal cutlets alla pellegrina.
+  Animelle al sapor di targone.  Sweetbread with tarragon sauce.
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner.
+
+  Zuppa alla Canavese.           Soup alla Canavese
+  Naselli con piselli.           Whiting with peas.
+  Coscia di manzo al forno.      Braized ribs of beef.
+  Lingua alla Visconti.          Tongue with grapes.
+  Anitra selvatica.              Wild duck.
+  Zabajone ghiacciato.           Iced syllabub.
+  Crostatini alla capucina.      Savoury of rice, truffles, &c.
+
+
+
+
+The Eighth Day
+
+"We are getting unpleasantly near the end of our time," said the
+Colonel, "but I am sure not one of us has learnt one tithe of what the
+Marchesa has to teach."
+
+"My dear Colonel Trestrail," said the Marchesa, "an education in cookery
+does not mean the teaching of a certain number of recipes. Education, I
+maintain, is something far higher than the mere imparting of facts; my
+notion of it is the teaching of people to teach themselves, and this
+is what I have tried to do in the kitchen. With some of you I am sure I
+have succeeded, and a book containing the recipe of every dish we have
+tried will be given to every pupil when we break up."
+
+"I think the most valuable lesson I have learnt is that cookery is a
+matter for serious study," said Mrs. Sinclair. "The popular English view
+seems to be that it is one of those things which gets itself done. The
+food is subjected to the action of heat, a little butter, or pepper, or
+onion, being added by way of flavouring, and the process is complete. To
+put it bluntly, it requires at least as much mental application to
+roast a fowl as to cut a bodice; but it does not strike the average
+Englishwoman in this way, for she will spend hours in thinking and
+talking about dressmaking (which is generally as ill done as her
+cooking), while she will be reluctant to give ten minutes to the
+consideration as to how a luncheon or supper dish shall be prepared. The
+English middle classes are most culpably negligent about the food
+they eat, and as a consequence they get exactly the sort of cooks they
+deserve to get. I do not blame the cooks; if they can get paid for
+cooking ill, why should they trouble to learn to cook well?"
+
+"I agree entirely," said Mrs. Wilding. "That saying, 'What I like is
+good plain roast and boiled, and none of your foreign kickshaws,' is, as
+every one knows, the stock utterance of John Bull on the stage or in
+the novel; and, though John Bull is not in the least like his fictitious
+presentment, this form of words is largely responsible for the waste and
+want of variety in the English kitchen. The plain roast and boiled means
+a joint every day, and this arrangement the good plain cook finds an
+admirable one for several reasons: it means little trouble, and it means
+also lots of scraps and bones and waste pieces. The good plain cook
+brings all the forces of obstruction to bear whenever the mistress
+suggests made dishes; and, should this suggestion ever be carried out,
+she takes care that the achievement shall be of a character not likely
+to invite repetition. Not long ago a friend of mine was questioning a
+cook as to soups, whereupon the cook answered that she had never been
+required to make such things where she had lived; all soups were bought
+in tins or bottles, and had simply to be warmed up. Cakes, too,
+were outside her repertoire, having always been 'had in' from the
+confectioner's, while 'entrys' were in her opinion, and in the opinion
+of her various mistresses, 'un'ealthy' and not worth making."
+
+"My experience is that, if a mistress takes an interest in cooking, she
+will generally have a fairly efficient cook," said Mrs. Fothergill. "I
+agree with Mrs. Sinclair that our English cooks are spoilt by neglect;
+and I think it is hard upon them, as a class, that so many inefficient
+women should be able to pose as cooks while they are unable to boil a
+potato properly."
+
+"And the so-called schools of cookery are quite useless in what they
+teach," said Miss Macdonnell. "I once sent a cook of mine to one to
+learn how to make a clear soup, and when she came back, she sent up,
+as an evidence of her progress, a potato pie coloured pink and green, a
+most poisonous-looking dish--and her clear soups were as bad as ever."
+
+Said the Colonel, "I will beg leave to enter a protest against the
+imperfections of that repast which is supposed to be the peculiar
+delight of the ladies, I allude to afternoon tea. I want to know why
+it is that unless I happen to call just when the tea is brought up--I
+grant, I know of a few houses which are honourable exceptions--I am
+fated to drink that most abominable of all decoctions, stewed lukewarm
+tea. 'Will you have some tea? I'm afraid it isn't quite fresh,' the
+hostess will remark without a blush. What would she think if her husband
+at dinner were to say, 'Colonel, take a glass of that champagne. It was
+opened the day before yesterday, and I daresay the fizz has gone off a
+little'? Tea is cheap enough, and yet the hostess seldom or never thinks
+of ordering up a fresh pot. I believe it is because she is afraid of the
+butler."
+
+"I sympathise with you fully, Colonel," said Lady Considine, "and my
+withers are unwrung. You do not often honour me with your presence
+on Tuesdays, but I am sure I may claim to be one of your honourable
+exceptions."
+
+"Indeed you may," said the Colonel. "Perhaps men ought not to intrude
+on these occasions; but I have a preference for taking tea in a pretty
+drawing-room, with a lot of agreeable women, rather than in a club
+surrounded by old chaps growling over the latest job at the War Office,
+and a younger brigade chattering about the latest tape prices, and the
+weights for the spring handicaps."
+
+"All these little imperfections go to prove that we are not a nation of
+cooks," said Van der Roet. "We can't be everything. Heine once said that
+the Romans would never have found time to conquer the world if they had
+been obliged to learn the Latin grammar; and it is the same with us. We
+can't expect to found an empire all over the planet, and cook as well
+as the French, who--perhaps wisely--never willingly emerge from the four
+corners of their own land."
+
+"There is energy enough left in us when we set about some purely
+utilitarian task," said Mrs. Wilding, "but we never throw ourselves into
+the arts with the enthusiasm of the Latin races. I was reading the other
+day of a French costumier who rushed to inform a lady, who had ordered
+a turban, of his success, exclaiming, 'Madame, apres trots nun's
+d'insomnie les plumes vent placees.' And every one knows the story of
+Vatel's suicide because the fish failed to arrive. No Englishman would
+be capable of flights like these."
+
+"Really, this indictment of English cookery makes me a little nervous,"
+said Lady Considine "I have promised to join in a driving tour through
+the southern counties. I shudder to think of the dinners I shall have to
+eat at the commercial hotels and posting-houses on our route."
+
+"English country inns are not what they ought to be, but now and then
+you come across one which is very good indeed, as good, if not better,
+than anything you could find in any other country; but I fear I must
+admit that, charges considered, the balance is against us," said Sir
+John.
+
+"When you start you ought to secure Sir John's services as courier, Lady
+Considine," said the Marchesa. "I once had the pleasure of driving for
+a week through the Apennines in a party under his guidance, and I can
+assure you we found him quite honest and obliging."
+
+"Ah, Marchesa, I was thinking of that happy time this very morning,"
+said Sir John. "Of Arezzo, where we were kept for three days by rain,
+which I believe is falling there still. Of Cortona, with that wonderful
+little restaurant on the edge of the cliff, whence you see Thrasumene
+lying like a silver mirror in the plain below. Of Perugia, the august,
+of Gubbio, Citta di Castello, Borgo San Sepolcro, Urbino, and divers
+others. If you go for a drive in Italy, you still may meet with humours
+of the road such as travellers of old were wont to enjoy. I well
+remember on the road between Perugia and Gubbio we began to realise we
+were indeed traversing mountain paths. On a sudden the driver got down,
+waved his arms, and howled to some peasants working in a field below.
+These, on their part, responded with more arm-waving and howling,
+directed apparently towards a village farther up the hill, whereupon we
+were assailed with visions of brigands, and amputated ears, and ransom.
+But at a turn of the road we came upon two magnificent white oxen,
+which, being harnessed on in front, drew us, and our carriages and
+horses as well, up five miles of steep incline. These beautiful
+fellows, it seemed, were what the driver was signalling for, and not
+for brigands. Again, every inn we stayed at supplied us with some
+representative touch of local life and habit. Here the whole personnel
+of the inn, reinforced by a goodly contingent of the townsfolk, would
+accompany us even into our bedrooms, and display the keenest interest
+in the unpacking of our luggage. There the cook would come and take
+personal instructions as to the coming meal, throwing out suggestions
+the while as to the merits of this or that particular dish, and in one
+place the ancient chambermaid insisted that one of the ladies, who had
+got a slight cold, should have the prete put into her bed for a short
+time to warm it. You need not look shocked, Colonel. The prete in
+question was merely a wooden frame, in the midst of which hangs a
+scaldino filled with burning ashes--a most comforting ecclesiastic, I
+can assure you. All the inns we visited had certain characteristics in
+common. The entrance is always dirty, and the staircase too, the dining
+rooms fairly comfortable, the bedrooms always clean and good, and the
+food much better than you would expect to find in such out-of-the-way
+places; indeed I cannot think of any inn where it was not good and
+wholesome, while often it was delicious. In short, Lady Considine, I
+strongly advise you to take a drive in Italy next spring, and if I am
+free I shall be delighted to act as courier."
+
+"Sir John has forgotten one or two touches I must fill in," said the
+Marchesa. "It was often difficult to arrange a stopping-place for lunch,
+so we always stocked our basket before starting. After the first day's
+experience we decided that it was vastly more pleasant to take our
+meal while going uphill at a foot-pace, than in the swing and jolt of a
+descent, so the route and the pace of the horses had to be regulated in
+order to give us a good hour's ascent about noon. Fortunately hills are
+plentiful in this part of Italy, and in the keen air we generally made
+an end of the vast store of provisions we laid in, and the generous
+fiascho was always empty a little too soon. Our drive came to an end at
+Fano, whither we had gone on account of a strange romantic desire of Sir
+John to look upon an angel which Browning had named in one of his poems.
+Ah! how vividly I can recall our pursuit of that picture. It was a wet,
+melancholy day. The people of Fano were careless of the fame of their
+angel, for no one knew the church which it graced. At last we came
+upon it by the merest chance, and Sir John led the procession up to the
+shrine, where we all stood for a time in positions of mock admiration.
+Sir John tried hard to keep up the imposition, but something, either his
+innate honesty or the chilling environment of disapproval of Guercino's
+handiwork, was too much for him. He did his best to admire, but the
+task was beyond his powers, and he raised no protest when some scoffer
+affirmed that, though Browning might be a great poet, he was a mighty
+poor judge of painting, when he gave in his beautiful poem immortality
+to this tawdry theatrical canvas. 'I think,' said Sir John, 'we had
+better go back to the hotel and order lunch. It would have been wiser
+to have ordered it before we left.' We were all so much touched by his
+penitence that no one had the heart to remind him how a proposition as
+to lunch had been made by our leading Philistine as soon as we arrived,
+a proposition waved aside by Sir John as inadmissible until the
+'Guardian Angel' should have been seen and admired."
+
+"I plead guilty," said Sir John. "I think this experience gave a
+death-blow to my career as an appreciator. Anyhow, I quite forget what
+the angel was like, and for reminiscences of Fano have to fall back
+upon the excellent colazione we ate in the externally unattractive, but
+internally admirable, Albergo del Moro."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch.
+
+  Astachi all'Italiana.            Lobster all'Italiana
+  Filetto di bue alla Napolitana.  Fillet of beef with Neapolitan sauce.
+  Risotto alla spagnuola.          Savoury rice.
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner.
+
+  Zuppa alla Romana.               Soup with quenelles.
+  Salmone alla Genovese.           Salmon alla Genovese.
+  Costolette in agro-dolce.        Mutton cutlets with Roman sauce.
+  Flano di spinacci.               Spinach in a mould.
+  Cappone con rive.                Capon with rice.
+  Croccante di mandorle.           Almond sweet.
+  Ostriche alla Napolitana.        Oyster savoury.
+
+
+
+
+The Ninth Day
+
+"Since I have been associated with the production of a dinner, I have
+had my eyes opened as to the complicated nature of the task, and the
+numerous strings which have to be pulled in order to ensure success,"
+said the Colonel; "but, seeing that a dinner-party with well-chosen
+sympathetic guests and distinguished dishes represents one of the
+consummate triumphs of civilisation, there is no reason to wonder. To
+achieve a triumph of any sort demands an effort."
+
+"Effort," said Miss Macdonnell. "Yes, effort is the word I associate
+with so many middle-class English dinners. It is an effort to the hosts,
+who regard the whole business as a mere paying off of debts; and an
+effort to the guests, who, as they go to dress, recall grisly memories
+of former similar experiences. It often astonishes me that dinner-giving
+of this character should still flourish."
+
+"The explanation is easy," said Van der Roet; "it flourishes because it
+gives a mark of distinction. It is a delicious moment for Mrs. Johnson
+when she is able to say to Mrs. Thompson, 'My dear, I am quite worn-out;
+we dined out every day last week, and have four more dinners in the next
+five days.' These good people show their British grit by the persistency
+with which they go on with their penitential hospitality, and their lack
+of ideas in never attempting to modify it so as to make it a pleasure
+instead of a disagreeable duty."
+
+"It won't do to generalise too widely, Van der Roet," said Sir John.
+"Some of these good people surely enjoy their party-giving; and, from my
+own experience of one or two houses of this sort, I can assure you the
+food is quite respectable. The great imperfection seems to lie in the
+utter want of consideration in the choice of guests. A certain number
+of people and a certain quantity of food shot into a room, that is their
+notion of a dinner-party."
+
+"Of course we understand that the success of a dinner depends much more
+on the character of the guests than on the character of the food," said
+Mrs. Sinclair; "and most of us, I take it, are able to fill our tables
+with pleasant friends; but what of the dull people who know none but
+dull people? What gain will they get by taking counsel how they shall
+fill their tables?"
+
+"More, perhaps, than you think, dear Mrs. Sinclair," said Sir John.
+"Dull people often enjoy themselves immensely when they meet dull people
+only. The frost comes when the host unwisely mixes in one or two
+guests of another sort--people who give themselves airs of finding more
+pleasure in reading Stevenson than the sixpenny magazines, and who don't
+know where Hurlingham is. Then the sheep begin to segregate themselves
+from the goats, and the feast is manque."
+
+"Considering what a trouble and anxiety a dinner-party must be to the
+hostess, even under the most favouring conditions, I am always at a
+loss to discover why so many women take so much pains, and spend a
+considerable sum of money as well, over details which are unessential,
+or even noxious," said Mrs. Wilding. "A few flowers on the table are all
+very well--one bowl in the centre is enough--but in many houses the cost
+of the flowers equals, if it does not outrun, the cost of all the rest
+of the entertainment. A few roses or chrysanthemums are perfect as
+accessories, but to load a table with flowers of heavy or pungent scent
+is an outrage. Lilies of the valley are lovely in proper surroundings,
+but on a dinner-table they are anathema. And then the mass of paper
+monstrosities which crowd every corner. Swans, nautilus shells, and even
+wild boars are used to hold up the menu. Once my menu was printed on a
+satin flag, and during the war the universal khaki invaded the dinner
+table. Ices are served in frilled baskets of paper, which have a
+tendency to dissolve and amalgamate with the sweet. The only paper on
+the table should be the menu, writ plain on a handsome card."
+
+"No one can complain of papery ices here," said the Marchesa. "Ices may
+be innocuous, but I don't favour them, and no one seems to have felt the
+want of them; at least, to adopt the phrase of the London shopkeeper,
+'I have had no complaints.' And even the ice, the very emblem of purity,
+has not escaped the touch of the dinner-table decorator. Only a few days
+ago I helped myself with my fingers to what looked like a lovely peach,
+and let it flop down into the lap of a bishop who was sitting next to
+me. This was the hostess's pretty taste in ices."
+
+"They are generally made in the shape of camelias this season," said Van
+der Roet. "I knew a man who took one and stuck it in his buttonhole."
+
+"I must say I enjoy an ice at dinner," said Lady Considine. "I know the
+doctors abuse them, but I notice they always eat them when they get the
+chance."
+
+"Ah, that is merely human inconsistency," said Sir John. "I am inclined
+to agree with the Marchesa that ice at dinner is an incongruity, and may
+well be dispensed with. I think I am correct, Marchesa, in assuming that
+Italy, which has showered so many boons upon us, gave us also the taste
+for ices."
+
+"I fear I must agree," said the Marchesa. "I now feel what a blessing
+it would have been for you English if you had learnt from us instead the
+art of cooking the admirable vegetables your gardens produce. How is it
+that English cookery has never found any better treatment for vegetables
+than to boil them quite plain? French beans so treated are tender, and
+of a pleasant texture on the palate, but I have never been able to find
+any taste in them. They are tasteless largely because the cook persists
+in shredding them into minute bits, and I maintain that they ought to
+be cooked whole--certainly when they are young--and sautez, a perfectly
+plain and easy process, which is hard to beat. Plain boiled cauliflower
+is doubtless good, but cooked alla crema it is far better; indeed, it
+is one of the best vegetable dishes I know. But perhaps the greatest
+discovery in cookery we Italians ever made was the combination of
+vegetables and cheese. There are a dozen excellent methods of cooking
+cauliflower with cheese, and one of these has come to you through
+France, choux-fleurs au gratin, and has become popular. Jerusalem
+artichokes treated in the same fashion are excellent; and the cucumber,
+nearly always eaten raw in England, holds a first place as a vegetable
+for cooking. I seem to remember that every one was loud in its praises
+when we tasted it as an adjunct to Manzo alla Certosina. Why is it
+that celery is for the most part only eaten raw with cheese? We have
+numberless methods of cooking it in Italy, and beetroot and lettuce as
+well. There is no spinach so good as English, and nowhere is it so badly
+cooked; it is always coarse and gritty because so little trouble is
+taken with it, and I can assure you that the smooth, delicate dish which
+we call Flano di spinacci is not produced merely by boiling and chopping
+it, and turning it out into a dish."
+
+
+  Menu--Lunch
+
+  Minestrone alla Milanese.            Vegetable broth.
+  Coniglio alla Provenzale.            Rabbit alla Provenzale.
+  Insalata di pomidoro.                Tomato salad.
+
+
+  Menu--Dinner.
+
+  Zuppa alla Maria Pia.                Soup alla Maria Pia.
+  Anguilla con ortaggi alla Milanese.  Eels with vegetables.
+  Manzo con sugo di barbabietoli.      Fillet of beef with beetroot sauce.
+  Animelle alla parmegiana.            Sweetbread with parmesan.
+  Perniciotti alla Gastalda.           Partridges alla Gastalda.
+  Uova ripiani.                        Stuffed eggs.
+
+
+
+
+The Tenth Day
+
+The sun rose on the tenth and last day at the "Laurestinas" as he
+was wont to rise on less eventful mornings. At breakfast the Marchesa
+proposed that the lunch that day should be a little more ornate than
+usual, and the dinner somewhat simpler. She requisitioned the services
+of six of the company to prepare the lunch, and at the same time
+announced that they would all have a holiday in the afternoon except
+Mrs. Sinclair, whom she warned to be ready to spend the afternoon in the
+kitchen helping prepare the last dinner.
+
+Four dishes, all admirable, appeared at lunch, and several of the party
+expressed regret that the heat of the weather forbade them from tasting
+every one; but Sir John was not of these. He ate steadily through the
+menu, and when he finally laid down his knife and fork he heaved a sigh,
+whether of satisfaction or regret it were hard to say.
+
+"It is a commonplace of the deepest dye to remark that ingratitude is
+inherent in mankind," he began; "I am compelled to utter it, however, by
+the sudden longing I feel for a plate from the hand of the late lamented
+Narcisse after I have eaten one of the best luncheons ever put on a
+table."
+
+"Experience of one school of excellence has caused a hankering after the
+triumphs of another," said Miss Macdonnell "There is one glory of the
+Marchesa, there is, or was, another of Narcisse, and the taste of the
+Marchesa's handiwork has stimulated the desire of comparision. Never
+mind, Sir John, perhaps in another world Narcisse may cook you--"
+
+"Oh stop, stop, for goodness' sake," cried Sir John, "I doubt whether
+even he could make me into a dainty dish to set before the King of
+Tartarus, though the stove would no doubt be fitted with the latest
+improvements and the fuel abundant."
+
+"Really, Sir John, I'm not sure I ought not to rise and protest," said
+Mrs. Wilding, "and I think I would if it weren't our last day."
+
+"Make a note of Sir John's wickedness, and pass it on to the Canon for
+use in a sermon," said Van der Roet.
+
+"I can only allow you half-an-hour, Laura," said the Marchesa to Mrs.
+Sinclair, "then you must come and work with me for the delectation of
+these idle people, who are going to spend the afternoon talking scandal
+under the chestnuts."
+
+"I am quite ready to join you if I can be of any help," said Mrs.
+Gradinger. "When knowledge is to be acquired, I am always loath to
+stand aside, not for my own sake so much as for the sake of others less
+fortunate, to whom I might possibly impart it hereafter."
+
+"You are very good," said the Marchesa, "but I think I must adhere to my
+original scheme of having Mrs. Sinclair by herself. I see coffee is now
+being taken into the garden, so we will adjourn, if you please."
+
+After the two workers had departed for the kitchen, an unwonted silence
+fell on the party under the chestnuts. Probably every one was pondering
+over the imminent dissolution of the company, and wondering whether
+to regret or rejoice. The peace had been kept marvellously well,
+considering the composition of the company. Mrs. Fothergill at times had
+made a show of posing as the beneficent patron, and Mrs. Gradinger had
+essayed to teach what nobody wanted to learn; but firm and judicious
+snubbing had kept these persons in their proper places. Nearly every one
+was sorry that the end had come. It had been real repose to Mrs. Wilding
+to pass ten days in an atmosphere entirely free from all perfume of the
+cathedral close. Lady Considine had been spending freely of late, and
+ten days' cessation of tradesmen's calls, and servants on board wages,
+had come as a welcome relief. Sir John had gained a respite from the
+task he dreaded, the task of going in quest of a successor to Narcisse.
+Now as he sat consuming his cigarette in the leisurely fashion so
+characteristic of his enjoyment--and those who knew him best were
+wont to say that Sir John practiced few arts so studiously as that of
+enjoyment--he could not banish the figure of Narcisse from his reverie.
+A horrible thought assailed him that this obsession might spring from
+the fact that on this very morning Narcisse might have taken his last
+brief walk out of the door of La Roquette, and that his disembodied
+spirit might be hovering around. Admirable as the cookery of the
+Marchesa had been, and fully as he had appreciated it, he felt he would
+give a good deal to be assured that on this the last evening of the
+New Decameron he might sit down to a dinner prepared by the hand of his
+departed chef.
+
+That evening the guests gathered round the table with more empressement
+than usual. The Marchesa seemed a little flurried, and Mrs. Sinclair, in
+a way, shared her excitement. The menu, for the first time, was written
+in French, a fact which did not escape Sir John's eye. He made no remark
+as to the soup; it was the best of its kind, and its French name made it
+no better than the other triumphs in the same field which the Marchesa
+had achieved. But when Sir John tasted the first mouthful of the fish he
+paused, and after a reflective and regretful look at his plate, he cast
+his eye round the table. All the others, however, were too busily intent
+in consuming the Turbot la Vatel to heed his interrogative glance, so he
+followed suit, and after he had finished his portion, asked, sotto voce,
+for another bit.
+
+In the interval before the service of the next dish Sir John made
+several vain attempts to catch the Marchesa's eye, and more than once
+tried to get in a word; but she kept up a forced and rather nervous
+conversation with Lady Considine and Van der Roet, and refused to
+listen. As Sir John helped himself to the next dish, Venaison sauce
+Grand Veneur, the feeling of astonishment which had seized him when he
+first tasted the fish deepened into something like Consternation. Had
+his palate indeed deceived him, or had the Marchesa, by some subtle
+effort of experimental genius, divined the secret of Narcisse--the
+secret of that incomparable sauce, the recipe of which was safely
+bestowed in his pocket-book? Occasionally he had taken a brief nap under
+the verandah after lunch: was it possible that in his sleep he might
+have murmured, in her hearing, words which gave the key of the mystery,
+and the description of those ingredients which often haunted his dreams?
+One thing was certain, that the savour which rose from the venison
+before him was the same which haunted his memory as the parting effort
+of the ill-starred Narcisse.
+
+Sir John was the least superstitious of mortals, still here he was face
+to face with one of these conjunctions of affairs which the credulous
+accept as manifestations of some hidden power, and sceptics as
+coincidences and nothing more. All the afternoon he had been thinking
+of Narcisse, and yearning beyond measure for something suggestive of his
+art; and here, on his plate before him, was food which might have been
+touched by the vanished hand. The same subtle influence pervaded the
+Chartreuse a la cardinal, the roast capon and salad, and the sweet.
+At last, when the dinner was nearly over, and when the Marchesa had
+apparently said all she had to say to Van der Roet, he lifted up his
+voice and said, "Marchesa, who gave you the recipe for the sauce with
+which the venison was served this evening?"
+
+The Marchesa glanced at Mrs. Sinclair, and then struck a hand-bell on
+the table. The door opened, and a little man, habited in a cook's dress
+of spotless white, entered and came forward. "M. Narcisse," said the
+Marchesa, "Sir John wants to know what sauce was used in dressing the
+venison; perhaps you can tell him."
+
+Here the Marchesa rose and left the room, and all the rest followed her,
+feeling it was unmeet that such a reunion should be witnessed by other
+eyes, however friendly they might be.
+
+           * * * * *
+
+"Now, you must tell us all about it," said Lady Considine, as soon as
+they got into the drawing-room, "and how you ever managed to get him out
+of this scrape."
+
+"Oh, there isn't much to tell," said the Marchesa. "Narcisse was
+condemned, indeed, but no one ever believed he would be executed. One of
+my oldest friends is married to an official high up in the Ministry of
+Justice, and I heard from her last week that Narcisse would certainly
+be reprieved; but I never expected a free pardon. Indeed, he got this
+entirely because it was discovered that Mademoiselle Sidonie, his
+accomplice, was really a Miss Adah Levine, who had graduated at a
+music-hall in East London, and that she had announced her intention
+of retiring to the land of her birth, and ascending to the apex of her
+profession on the strength of her Parisian reputation. Then it was that
+the reaction in favour of Narcisse set in; the boulevards could not
+stand this. The journals dealt with this new outrage in their best
+Fashoda style; the cafes rang with it: another insult cast upon unhappy
+France, whose destiny was, it seemed, to weep tears of blood to the end
+of time. There were rumours of an interpellation in the Chamber, the
+position of the Minister of the Interior was spoken of as precarious,
+indeed the Eclaireur reported one evening that he had resigned. Pockets
+were picked under the eyes of sergents de ville, who were absorbed in
+proclaiming to each other their conviction of the innocence of Narcisse,
+and the guilt of cette coquine Anglaise. Cabmen en course ran down
+pedestrians by the dozen, as they discussed l'affaire Narcisse to an
+accompaniment of whip-cracking. In front of the Cafe des Automobiles a
+belated organ-grinder began to grind the air of Mademoiselle Sidonie's
+great song Bonjour Coco, whereupon the whole company rose with howls and
+cries of, 'A bas les Anglais, a bas les Juifs. 'Conspuez Coco.' In less
+than five minutes the organ was disintegrated, and the luckless minstrel
+flying with torn trousers down a side street. For the next few days la
+haute gomme promenaded with fragments of the piano organ suspended from
+watch chains as trophies of victory. But this was not all. Paris broke
+out into poetry over l'affaire Narcisse, and here is a journal sent
+to me by my friend which contains a poem in forty-nine stanzas by
+Aristophane le Beletier, the cher maitre of the 'Moribonds,' the very
+newest school of poetry in Paris. I won't inflict the whole of it on
+you, but two stanzas I must read--
+
+  "'Puisse-je te rappeler loin des brouillards maudits.
+    Vers la France, sainte mere et nourrice!
+  Reviens a Lutece, de l'art vrai paradis,
+    Je t'evoque, O Monsieur Narcisse!
+
+  Quitte les saignants bifteks, de tes mains sublimes
+    Gueris le sein meurtri de ta mere!
+  Detourne ton glaive trenchant de tes freles victimes
+    Vers l'Albion et sa triste Megere.'"
+
+"Dear me, it sounds a little like some other Parisian odes I have read
+recently," said Lady Considine. "The triste Megere, I take it, is poor
+old Britannia, but what does he mean by his freles victimes?"
+
+"No doubt they are the pigeons and the rabbits, and the chickens and the
+capons which Narcisse is supposed to have slaughtered in hecatombs, in
+order to gorge the brutal appetite of his English employer," said Miss
+Macdonnell. "After disregarding such an appeal as this M. Narcisse had
+better keep clear of Paris for the future, for if he should go back and
+be recognised I fancy it would be a case of 'conspuvez Narcisse."'
+
+"The French seem to have lost all sense of exactness," said Mrs.
+Gradinger, "for the lines you have just read would not pass muster as
+classic. In the penultimate line there are two syllables in excess of
+the true Alexandrine metre, and the last line seems too long by one.
+Neither Racine nor Voltaire would have taken such liberties with
+prosody. I remember a speech in Phaedre of more than a hundred lines
+which is an admirable example of what I mean. I dare say some of you
+know it. It begins:--
+
+  "Perfide! oses-tu bien te montrer devant moi? Monstre,"
+
+but before the reciter could get fairly under way the door mercifully
+opened, and Sir John entered. He advanced towards the Marchesa, and
+shook her warmly by the hand, but said nothing; his heart was evidently
+yet too full to allow him to testify his relief in words. He was
+followed closely by the Colonel, who, taking his stand on the
+hearth-rug, treated the company to a few remarks, couched in a strain of
+unwonted eulogy. In the whole course of his life he had never passed
+a more pleasant ten days, though, to be sure, he had been a little
+mistrustful at first. As to the outcome of the experiment, if they
+all made even moderate use of the counsels they had received from the
+Marchesa, the future of cookery in England was now safe. He was not
+going to propose a formal vote of thanks, because anything he could say
+would be entirely insufficient to express the gratitude he felt, and
+because he deemed that each individual could best thank the Marchesa on
+his or her behalf.
+
+There was a momentary silence when the Colonel ceased, and then a
+clearing of the throat and a preliminary movement of the arms gave
+warning that Mrs. Gradinger was going to speak. The unspoken passage
+from Racine evidently sat heavily on her chest. Abstracted and
+overwrought as he was, these symptoms aroused in Sir John a
+consciousness of impending danger, and he rushed, incontinent, into the
+breach, before the lady's opening sentence was ready.
+
+"As Colonel Trestrail has just remarked, we, all of us, are in debt to
+the Marchesa in no small degree; but, in my case, the debt is tenfold.
+I am sure you all understand why. As a slight acknowledgment of the
+sympathy I have received from every one here, during my late trial, I
+beg to ask you all to dine with me this day week, when I will try to
+set before you a repast a la Francaise, which I hope may equal, I cannot
+hope that it will excel, the dinners all'Italiana we have tasted in this
+happy retreat. Narcisse and I have already settled the menu."
+
+"I am delighted to accept," said the Marchesa. "I have no engagement,
+and if I had I would throw my best friend over."
+
+"And this day fortnight you must all dine with me," said Mrs. Sinclair.
+"I will spend the intervening days in teaching my new cook how to
+reproduce the Marchesa's dishes. Then, perhaps, we may be in a better
+position to decide on the success of the Marchesa's experiment."
+
+        *   *   *   *   *
+
+The next morning witnessed the dispersal of the party. Sir John and
+Narcisse left by an early train, and for the next few days the reforming
+hand of the last-named was active in the kitchen. He arrived before the
+departure of the temporary aide, and had not been half-an-hour in the
+house before there came an outbreak which might easily have ended in the
+second appearance of Narcisse at the bar of justice, as homicide, this
+time to be dealt with by a prosaic British jury, which would probably
+have doomed him to the halter. Sir John listened over the balusters to
+the shrieks and howls of his recovered treasure, and wisely decided to
+lunch at his club. But the club lunch, admirable as it was, seemed flat
+and unappetising after the dainty yet simple dishes he had recently
+tasted; and the following day he set forth to search for one of those
+Italian restaurants, of which he had heard vague reports. Certainly the
+repast would not be the same as at the "Laurestinas," but it might serve
+for once. Alas! Sir John did not find the right place, for there are
+"right places" amongst the Italian restaurants of London. He beat a
+hasty retreat from the first he entered, when the officious proprietor
+assured him that he would serve up a dejeuner in the best French style.
+At the second he chose a dish with an Italian name, but the name was the
+only Italian thing about it. The experiment had failed. It seemed as
+if Italian restaurateurs were sworn not to cook Italian dishes, and the
+next day he went to do as best he could at the club.
+
+But before he reached the club door he recalled how, many years ago, he
+and other young bloods used to go for chops to Morton's, a queer little
+house at the back of St. James' Street, and towards Morton's he
+now turned his steps. As he entered it, it seemed as if it was only
+yesterday that he was there. He beheld the waiter, with mouth all awry,
+through calling down the tube. The same old mahogany partitions to the
+boxes, and the same horse-hair benches. Sir John seated himself in a
+box, where there was one other luncher in the corner, deeply absorbed
+over a paper. This luncher raised his head and Sir John recognised Van
+der Roet.
+
+"My dear Vander, whatever brought you here, where nothing is to be had
+but chops? I didn't know you could eat a chop."
+
+"I didn't know it myself till to-day," said Van der Roet, with a hungry
+glance at the waiter, who rushed by with a plate of smoking chops in
+each hand. "The fact is, I've had a sort of hankering after an Italian
+lunch, and I went out to find one, but I didn't exactly hit on the right
+shop, so I came here, where I've been told you can get a chop properly
+cooked, if you don't mind waiting."
+
+"Ah! I see," said Sir John, laughing. "We've both been on the same
+quest, and have been equally unlucky. Well, we shall satisfy our hunger
+here at any rate, and not unpleasantly either."
+
+"I went to one place," said Van der Roet "and before ordering I asked
+the waiter if there was any garlic in the dish I had ordered. 'Garlic,
+aglio, no, sir, never.' Whereupon I thought I would go somewhere else.
+Next I entered the establishment of Baldassare Romanelli. How could
+a man with such a name serve anything else than the purest Italian
+cookery, I reasoned, so I ordered, unquestioning, a piatio with an
+ideal Italian name, Manzo alla Terracina. Alas! the beef used in the
+composition thereof must have come in a refrigerating chamber from
+pastures more remote than those of Terracina, and the sauce served with
+it was simply fried onions. In short, my dish was beefsteak and onions,
+and very bad at that. So in despair I fell back upon the trusty British
+chop."
+
+As Van der Roet ceased speaking another guest entered the room, and he
+and Sir John listened attentively while the new-comer gave his order.
+There was no mistaking the Colonel's strident voice. "Now, look here! I
+want a chop underdone, underdone, you understand, with a potato, and a
+small glass of Scotch whisky, and I'll sit here."
+
+"The Colonel, by Jove," said Sir John; "I expect he's been
+restaurant-hunting too."
+
+"Hallo!" said the Colonel, as he recognised the other two, "I never
+thought I should meet you here: fact is, I've been reading about
+agricultural depression' and how it is the duty of everybody to eat
+chops so as to encourage the mutton trade, and that sort of thing."
+
+"Oh, Colonel, Colonel," said Van der Roet. "You know you've been
+hungering after the cookery of Italy, and trying to find a genuine
+Italian lunch, and have failed, just as Sir John and I failed, and have
+come here in despair. But never mind, just wait for a year or so, until
+the 'Cook's Decameron' has had a fair run for its money, and then you'll
+find you'll fare as well at the ordinary Italian restaurant as you did
+at the 'Laurestinas,' and that's saying a good deal."
+
+
+
+
+
+PART II--RECIPES
+
+
+
+
+Sauces
+
+As the three chief foundation sauces in cookery, Espagnole or brown
+sauce, Velute or white sauce, and Bechamel, are alluded to so often in
+these pages, it will be well to give simple Italian recipes for them.
+
+Australian wines may be used in all recipes where wine is mentioned:
+Harvest Burgundy for red, and Chasselas for Chablis.
+
+
+
+
+No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce
+
+The chief ingredient of this useful sauce is good stock, to which add
+any remnants and bones of fowl or game. Butter the bottom of a stewpan
+with at least two ounces of butter, and in it put slices of lean
+veal, ham, bacon, cuttings of beef, fowl, or game trimmings, three
+peppercorns, mushroom trimmings, a tomato, a carrot and a turnip cut up,
+an onion stuck with two cloves, a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, parsley
+and marjoram. Put the lid on the stewpan and braize well for fifteen
+minutes, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and pour in a quarter
+pint of good boiling stock and boil very gently for fifteen minutes,
+then strain through a tamis, skim off all the grease, pour the sauce
+into an earthenware vessel, and let it get cold. If it is not rich
+enough, add a little Liebig or glaze. Pass through a sieve again before
+using.
+
+
+
+
+No. 2. Velute Sauce
+
+The same as above, but use white stock, no beef, and only pheasant or
+fowl trimmings, button mushrooms, cream instead of glaze, and a chopped
+shallot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 3. Bechamel Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Butter, ham, veal, carrots, shallot, celery bay leaf,
+cloves, thyme, peppercorns, potato flour, cream, fowl stock.
+
+Prepare a mirepoix by mixing two ounces of butter, trimmings of lean
+veal and ham, a carrot, a shallot, a little celery, all cut into dice, a
+bay leaf, two cloves, four peppercorns, and a little thyme. Put this on
+a moderate fire so as not to let it colour, and when all the moisture
+is absorbed add a tablespoonful of potato flour. Mix well, and gradually
+add equal quantities of cream and fowl stock, and stir till it boils.
+Then let it simmer gently. Stir occasionally, and if it gets too thick,
+add more cream and white stock. After two hours pass it twice slowly
+through a tamis so as to get the sauce very smooth.
+
+
+
+
+No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking)
+
+Ingredients: Bacon, onions, carrots, ham, a bunch of herbs, parsley,
+mushrooms, cloves, peppercorns, stock, Chablis.
+
+Put the following ingredients into a stewpan: Some bits of bacon and
+lean ham, a carrot, all cut into dice, half an onion, a bunch of herbs,
+a few mushroom cuttings, two cloves, and four peppercorns. To this
+add one and a quarter pint of good stock and a glass of Chablis, boil
+rapidly for ten minutes then simmer till it is reduced to a third. Pass
+through a sieve and use for masking meat, fowl, fish, &c.
+
+
+
+
+No. 5. Genoese Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Onion, butter, Burgundy, mushrooms, truffles, parsley, bay
+leaf, Espagnole sauce (No.1), blond of veal, essence of fish, anchovy
+butter, crayfish or lobster butter.
+
+Cut up a small onion and fry it in butter, add a glass of Burgundy, some
+cuttings of mushrooms and truffles, a pinch of chopped parsley and half
+a bay leaf. Reduce half. In another saucepan put two cups of Espagnole
+sauce, one cup of veal stock, and a tablespoonful of essence of fish,
+reduce one-third and add it to the other saucepan, skim off all the
+grease, boil for a few minutes, and pass through a sieve. Then stir
+it over the fire, and add half a teaspoonful of crayfish and half of
+anchovy butter.
+
+
+
+
+No. 6. Italian Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Chablis, mushrooms, leeks, a bunch of herbs, peppercorns,
+Espagnole sauce, game gravy or stock, lemon.
+
+Put into a stewpan two glasses of Chablis, two tablespoonsful of
+mushroom trimmings, a leek cut up, a bunch of herbs, five peppercorns,
+and boil till it is reduced to half. In another stewpan mix two glasses
+of Espagnole (No. 1) or Velute sauce (No 2) and half a glass of game
+gravy, boil for a few minutes then blend the contents of the two
+stewpans, pass through a sieve, and add the juice of a lemon.
+
+
+
+
+No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto
+
+Ingredients: Ham, Musca or sweet port, vinegar, basil spice.
+
+Cut up an ounce of ham and pound it in a mortar then mix it with three
+dessert spoonsful of port or Musca and a teaspoonful of vinegar a little
+dried basil and a pinch of spice. Boil it up, and then pass it through
+a sieve and warm it up in a bain-marie. Serve with roast meats. If you
+cannot get a sweet wine add half a teaspoonful of sugar. Australian
+Muscat is a good wine to use.
+
+
+
+
+No. 8. Tarragon Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Tarragon, stock, butter, flour.
+
+To half a pint of good stock add two good sprays of fresh tarragon,
+simmer for quarter of an hour in a stewpan and keep the lid on.
+In another stewpan melt one ounce of butter and mix it with three
+dessert-spoonsful of flour, then gradually pour the stock from the first
+stewpan over it, but take out the tarragon. Mix well, add a teaspoonful
+of finely chopped tarragon and boil for two minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 9. Tomato Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Tomatoes, ham, onions, basil, salt, oil, garlic, spices.
+
+Broil three tomatoes, skin them and mix them with a tablespoonful of
+chopped ham, half an onion, salt, a dessert-spoonful of oil, a little
+pounded spice and basil. Then boil and pass through a sieve. Whilst the
+sauce is boiling, put in a clove of garlic with a cut, but remove it
+before you pass the sauce through the sieve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante
+
+Ingredients: Ham, butter, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme,
+cloves, peppercorns, vinegar, Chablis, stock, tomatoes, Velute or
+Espagnole sauce, castor sugar, lemon.
+
+Cut up an ounce of ham, half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of
+celery very fine, and fry them in butter together with a bay leaf, a
+sprig of thyme, one clove and four peppercorns. Over this pour a third
+of a cup of vinegar, and when the liquid is all absorbed, add half a
+glass of Chablis and a cup of stock. Then add six tomatoes cut up and
+strained of all their liquid. Cook this in a covered stewpan and pass
+it through a sieve, but see that none of the bay leaf or thyme goes
+through. Mix this sauce with an equal quantity of Velute (No. 2) or
+Espagnole sauce, (No. 1), let it boil and pass through a sieve again
+and at the last add a teaspoonful of castor sugar, the juice of half a
+lemon, and an ounce of fresh butter. (Another tomato sauce may be made
+like this, but use stock instead of vinegar and leave out the lemon
+juice and sugar.)
+
+
+
+
+No. 11. Mushroom Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Velute sauce, essence of mushrooms, butter.
+
+Mix two dessert-spoonsful of essence of mushrooms with a cupful of
+Velute sauce (No. 2), reduce, keep on stirring, and just before serving
+add an ounce of butter. This sauce can be made with essence of truffle,
+or game, or shallot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Onions, ham, butter, Marsala, blond of veal, thyme, bay
+leaf, peppercorns, cloves, mushrooms, Espagnole sauce (No. 1), tomato
+sauce, game stock or essence.
+
+Fry an onion in butter with some bits of cut-up ham, then pour a glass
+of Marsala over it, and another of blond of veal, add a sprig of thyme,
+a bay leaf, four peppercorns, a clove, a tablespoonful of mushroom
+cuttings, and reduce half. In another saucepan put two cups of Espagnole
+sauce, one cupful of tomato sauce, and half a cup of game stock or
+essence. Reduce a third, and add the contents of the first saucepan,
+boil the sauce a few minutes, and pass it through a sieve. Warm it up in
+a bain-marie before using.
+
+
+
+
+No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce
+
+Ingredients: Anchovies, fennel, flour, spices, parsley, marjoram,
+garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, cream.
+
+Wash three anchovies in vinegar, bone and pound them in a mortar with
+a teaspoonful of chopped fennel and a pinch of cinnamon. Then mix in a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and marjoram, a squeeze of lemon juice,
+a teaspoonful of flour, half a gill of boiled cream and the bones of
+the fish for which you will use this sauce. Pass through a sieve, add a
+clove of garlic with a cut in it, and boil. If the fish you are using
+is cooked in the oven, add a little of the liquor in which it has been
+cooked to the sauce. Take out the garlic before serving. Instead of
+anchovies you may use caviar, pickled tunny, or any other pickled fish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce)
+
+Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, stock, burnt sugar, vinegar, raisins, pine
+nuts or almonds.
+
+Mix two spoonsful of burnt sugar with one of vinegar, and dilute with a
+little good stock. Then add two cups of Espagnole sauce (No. 1), a few
+stoned raisins, and a few pinocchi* (pine nuts) or shredded almonds.
+Keep this hot in a bain-marie, and serve with cutlets, calf's head or
+feet or tongue.
+
+*The pinocchi which Italians use instead of almonds can be bought in
+London when in season.
+
+
+
+
+No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way)
+
+Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, an onion, butter, flour, lemon, herbs,
+nutmeg, raisins, pine nuts or almonds, burnt sugar.
+
+Cut up a small bit of onion, fry it slightly in butter and a little
+flour, add the juice of a lemon and a little of the peel grated, a
+bouquet of herbs, a pinch of nutmeg, a few stoned raisins, shredded
+almonds or pinocchi, and a tablespoonful of burnt sugar. Add this to a
+good Espagnole (No. 1), and warm it up in a bain-marie.
+
+
+
+
+No. 16. Supreme Sauce
+
+Ingredients: White sauce, fowl stock, butter.
+
+Put three-quarters of a pint of white sauce into a saucepan, and when
+it is nearly boiling add half a cup of concentrated fowl stock. Reduce
+until the sauce is quite thick, and when about to serve pass it through
+a tamis into a bain-marie and add two tablespoonsful of cream.
+
+
+
+
+No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian Frys)
+
+Ingredients: Semolina flour, eggs, salt, butter (or olive oil), vinegar,
+water.
+
+Mix the following ingredients well together: two ounces of semolina
+flour, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt, and two ounces of melted
+butter. Add a glass of water so as to form a liquid substance. At the
+last add the whites of two eggs beaten up to a snow. This will make a
+good paste for masking meat, fish, vegetables, or sweets which are to
+be fried in the Italian manner, but if for meat or vegetables add a few
+drops of vinegar or a little lemon juice.
+
+
+
+
+No. 18. White Villeroy
+
+Ingredients: Butter, flour, eggs, cream, nutmeg, white stock.
+
+Make a light-coloured roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces
+of flour, stir in some white stock and keep it very smooth. Let it boil,
+and add the yolks of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream
+and a pinch of nutmeg. Pass it through a sieve and use for masking
+cutlets, fish, &c.
+
+
+
+
+Soups
+
+
+
+
+No. 19. Clear Soup
+
+Ingredients: Stock meat, water, a bunch of herbs (thyme, parsley,
+chervil, bay leaf, basil, marjoram), three carrots, three turnips, three
+onions, three cloves stuck in the onions, one blade of mace.
+
+Cut up three pounds of stock meat small and put it in a stock pot with
+two quarts of cold water, three carrots, and three turnips cut up, three
+onions with a clove stuck in each one, a bunch of herbs and a blade of
+mace. Let it come to the boil and then draw it off, at once skim off
+all the scum, and keep it gently simmering, and occasionally add two
+or three tablespoonsful of cold water. Let it simmer all day, and then
+strain it through a fine cloth.
+
+Some of the liquor in which a calf's head has been cooked, or even a
+calf's foot, will greatly improve a clear soup.
+
+The stock should never be allowed to boil as long as the meat and
+vegetables are in the stock pot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup)
+
+Ingredients: Clear soup, vegetables.
+
+Any fresh spring vegetables will do for this soup, but they must all be
+cooked separately and put into the soup at the last minute. It is best
+made with fresh peas, asparagus tips, and a few strips of tarragon.
+
+
+
+
+No. 21. Soup alla Lombarda
+
+Ingredients: Clear soup, fowl forcemeat, Bechamel (No. 3), peas, lobster
+butter, eggs, asparagus.
+
+Make a firm forcemeat of fowl and divide it into three parts, to the
+first add two spoonsful of cream Bechamel, to the second four spoonsful
+of puree of green peas, to the third two spoonsful of lobster butter and
+the yolk of an egg; thus you will have the Italian colours, red, white,
+and green. Butter a pie dish and make little quenelles of the forcemeat.
+Just before serving boil them for four minutes in boiling stock, take
+them out carefully and put them in a warm soup tureen with two spoonsful
+of cooked green peas and pour a very fresh clear soup over them. Hand
+little croutons fried in lobster butter separately.
+
+
+
+
+No. 22. Tuscan Soup
+
+Ingredients: Stock, eggs.
+
+Whip up three or four eggs, gradually add good stock to them, and keep
+on whisking them up until they begin to curdle. Keep the soup hot in a
+bain-marie.
+
+
+
+
+No. 23. Venetian Soup
+
+Ingredients: Clear soup, butter, flour, Parmesan, eggs.
+
+Make a roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour, add
+an ounce of grated cheese and half a cup of good stock. Mix up well so
+as to form a paste, and then take it off the fire and add the yolks of
+four eggs, mix again and form the again and form the paste into little
+quenelles. Boil these in a little soup, strain off, put them into the
+tureen and pour a good clear soup over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 24. Roman Soup
+
+Ingredients: Stock, butter, eggs, salt, crumb of bread, parsley, nutmeg,
+flour, Parmesan.
+
+Mix three and a half ounces of butter with two eggs and four ounces of
+crumbs of bread soaked in stock, a little chopped parsley, salt, and a
+pinch of nutmeg. Reduce this and add two tablespoonsful of flour and
+one of grated Parmesan. Form this into little quenelles and boil them
+in stock for a few minutes put them into a tureen and pour a good clear
+soup over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 25. Soup alla Nazionale
+
+Ingredients: Clear soup, savoury custard.
+
+Make a savoury custard and divide it into three parts, one to be left
+white, another coloured red with tomato, and the third green with
+spinach. Put a layer of each in a buttered saucepan and cook for about
+ten minutes, cut it into dice, so that you have the three Italian
+colours (red, white, and green) together, then put the custard into a
+soup tureen and pour a good clear soup over it.
+
+
+
+
+No. 26. Soup alla Modanese
+
+Ingredients: Stock, spinach, butter, salt, eggs, Parmesan, nutmeg,
+croutons.
+
+Wash one pound of spinach in five or six waters, then chop it very fine
+and mix it with three ounces of butter, salt it and warm it up. Then
+let it get cold, pass through a hair sieve, and add two eggs, a
+tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and very little nutmeg. Add this to
+some boiling stock in a copper saucepan, put on the lid, and on the top
+put some hot coals so that the eggs may curdle and help to thicken the
+soup. Serve with fried croutons.
+
+
+
+
+No. 27. Crotopo Soup
+
+Ingredients: Clear soup, veal, ham, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, rolls.
+
+Pound half a pound of lean veal in a mortar, then add three ounces of
+cooked ham with some fat in it, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and
+very little nutmeg. Pass through a sieve, cut some small French rolls
+into slices, spread them with the above mixture, and colour them in the
+oven. Then cut them in halves or quarters, put them into a tureen, and
+just before serving pour a very good clear soup over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 28. Soup all'Imperatrice
+
+Ingredients: Breast of fowl, eggs, salt, pepper, ground rice, nutmeg,
+clear stock.
+
+Pound the breast of a fowl in a mortar, and add to it a teaspoonful of
+ground rice, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.
+Pass this through a sieve, form quenelles with it, and pour a good clear
+soup over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 29. Neapolitan Soup
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, potato flour, eggs, Bechamel sauce, peas, asparagus,
+spinach, clear soup.
+
+Mix a quarter pound of forcemeat of fowl with a tablespoonful of potato
+flour, a tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and the yolk of an
+egg; put this into a tube about the size round of an ordinary macaroni;
+twenty minutes before serving squirt the forcemeat into a saucepan with
+boiling stock, and nip off the forcemeat as it comes through the pipe
+into pieces about an inch and a half long. Let it simmer, and add boiled
+peas and asparagus tips. If you like to have the fowl macaroni white
+and green, you can colour half the forcemeat with a spoonful of spinach
+colouring. Serve in a good clear soup.
+
+
+
+
+No. 30. Soup with Risotto
+
+Ingredients: Risotto (No. 189), eggs, bread crumbs, clear or brown soup.
+
+If you have some good risotto left, you can use it up by making it into
+little balls the size of small nuts. Egg and bread crumb and fry them in
+butter; dry them and put them into a soup tureen with hot soup. The soup
+may be either clear or brown.
+
+
+
+
+No. 31. Soup alla Canavese
+
+Ingredients: White stock, butter, onions, carrot, celery, tomato,
+cauliflower, fat bacon, parsley, sage, Parmesan, salt, pepper.
+
+Chop up half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of celery, a small
+bit of fat bacon, and fry them in two ounces of butter. Then cover them
+with good white stock, boil for a few minutes, pass through a sieve, and
+add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree. Then blanch half a cauliflower
+in salted water, let it get cold, drain all the water out of it, and
+break it up into little bunches and put them into a stock pot with the
+stock, a small leaf of dried sage, crumbled up, and a little chopped
+parsley, and let it all boil; add a pinch of grated cheese and some
+pepper. Serve with grated Parmesan handed separately.
+
+
+
+
+No. 32. Soup alla Maria Pia
+
+Ingredients: White stock, eggs, butter, peas, white beans, carrot,
+onion, leeks, celery, cream croutons.
+
+Soak one pound of white beans for twelve hours, then put them into a
+stock pot with a little salt, butter, and water, add a carrot, an onion,
+two leeks, and a stick of celery, and simmer until the vegetables are
+well cooked; then take out all the fresh vegetables, drain the beans and
+pass them through a sieve, but first dilute them with good stock. Put
+this puree into a stock pot with good white stock, and when it has
+boiled keep it hot in a bain-marie until you are about to serve; then
+mix the yolk of three eggs in a cup of cream, and add this to the soup.
+Pour the soup into a warm tureen, add some boiled green peas, and serve
+with fried croutons handed separately.
+
+
+
+
+No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce Soup)
+
+Ingredients: Stock, sorrel, endive, lettuce, chervil, celery, carrot,
+onion, French roll, Parmesan cheese.
+
+Boil the following vegetables and herbs in very good stock for an hour:
+Two small bunches of sorrel, a bunch of endive, a lettuce, a small bunch
+of chervil, a stick of celery, a carrot and an onion, all well washed
+and cut up. Then put some slices of toasted French roll into a tureen
+and pour the above soup over them. Serve with grated Parmesan handed
+separately.
+
+
+
+
+No. 34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl stock, ground rice, milk, butter.
+
+Put a tablespoonful of ground rice into a saucepan and gradually add
+half a pint of milk, boil it gently for twelve minutes in a bainmarie,
+but stir the whole time, so as to get it very smooth. Just before
+serving add an ounce of butter, pass it through a sieve, and mix it with
+good fowl stock.
+
+
+
+
+Minestre
+
+Minestra is a thick broth, very much like hotch-potch, only thicker. In
+Italy it is often served at the beginning of dinner instead of soup; it
+also makes an excellent lunch dish. Two or three tablespoonsful of No.
+35 will be found a great improvement to any of these minestre.
+
+
+
+
+No. 35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c.
+
+Ingredients: Onions, celery, carrots, butter, salt, stock, tomatoes,
+mushrooms.
+
+Cut up an onion, a stick of celery, and a carrot; fry them in butter and
+salt; add a few bits of cooked ham and veal cut up, two mushrooms, and
+the pulp of a tomato. Cook for a quarter of an hour, and add a little
+stock occasionally to keep it moist. Pass through a sieve, and use for
+seasoning minestre, macaroni, rice, &c. It should be added when the dish
+is nearly cooked.
+
+
+
+
+No. 36. Minestra alla Casalinga
+
+Ingredients: Rice, butter, stock, vegetables.
+
+All sorts of vegetables will serve for this dish. Blanch them in boiling
+salted water, then drain and fry them in butter. Add plenty of good
+stock, and put them on a slow fire. Boil four ounces of rice in stock,
+and when it is well done add the stock with the vegetables. Season with
+two or three spoonsful of No. 35, and serve with grated cheese handed
+separately.
+
+
+
+
+No. 37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips
+
+Ingredients: Rice, turnips, butter, gravy, tomatoes.
+
+Cut three or four young turnips into slices and put them on a dish,
+strew a little salt over them, cover them with another dish, and let
+them stand for about two hours until the water has run out of them.
+Then drain the slices, put them in a frying-pan and fry them slightly
+in butter. Add some good gravy and mashed-up tomatoes, and after having
+cooked this for a few minutes pour it into good boiling stock. Add three
+ounces of well-washed rice, and boil for half-an-hour.
+
+Minestra loses its flavour if it is boiled too long. In Lombardy,
+however, rice, macaroni, &c., are rarely boiled enough for English
+tastes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 38. Minestra alla Capucina
+
+Ingredients: Rice, anchovies, butter, stock, and onions.
+
+Scale an anchovy, pound it, and fry it in butter together with a small
+onion cut across, and four ounces of boiled rice. Add a little salt, and
+when the rice is a golden brown, take out the onion and gradually add
+some good stock until the dish is of the consistency of rice pudding.
+
+
+
+
+No. 39. Minestra of Semolina
+
+Ingredients: Stock, semolina, Parmesan.
+
+Put as much stock as you require into a saucepan, and when it begins to
+boil add semolina very gradually, and stir to keep it from getting
+lumpy Cook it until the semolina is soft, and serve with grated Parmesan
+handed separately. To one quart of soup use three ounces of semolina.
+
+
+
+
+No. 40. Minestrone alla Milanese
+
+Ingredients: Rice or macaroni, ham, bacon, stock, all sorts of
+vegetables.
+
+Minestrone is a favourite dish in Lombardy when vegetables are
+plentiful. Boil all sorts of vegetables in stock, and add bits of bacon,
+ham, onions braized in butter, chopped parsley, a clove of garlic with
+two cuts, and rice or macaroni. Put in those vegetables first which
+require most cooking, and do not make the broth too thin. Leave the
+garlic in for a quarter of an hour only.
+
+
+
+
+No. 41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage
+
+Ingredients: Rice, cabbage, stock, ham, tomato sauce.
+
+Cut off the stalk and all the hard outside leaves of a cabbage, wash it
+and cut it up, but not too small, then drain and cook it in good stock
+and add two ounces of boiled rice. This minestre is improved by adding a
+little chopped ham and a few spoonsful of tomato sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 42. Minestra of Rice and Celery
+
+Ingredients: Celery, rice, stock.
+
+Cut up a head of celery and remove all the green parts, then boil it in
+good stock and add two ounces of rice, and boil till it is well cooked.
+
+
+
+
+Fish
+
+
+
+
+No. 43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels).
+
+Ingredients: Eels, butter, flour, stock, bay leaves, salt, pepper,
+Chablis, a macedoine of vegetables.
+
+Cut up a big eel and fry it in two ounces of butter, and when it is a
+good colour add a tablespoonful of flour, about half a pint of stock, a
+glass of Chablis, a bay leaf, pepper, and salt, and boil till it is well
+cooked. In the meantime boil separately all sorts of vegetables, such as
+carrots, cauliflower, celery, beans, tomatoes, &c. Take out the pieces
+of eel, but keep them hot, whilst you pass the liquor which forms the
+sauce through a sieve and add the vegetables to this. Let them boil a
+little longer and arrange them in a dish; place the pieces of eel on
+them and cover with the sauce. It is most important that the eels should
+be served very hot.
+
+Any sort of fish will do as well for this dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish)
+
+Ingredients: Fish, flour, butter, Villeroy.
+
+Any sort of fish will do, turbot, sole, trout, &c. Cut it into fillets,
+flour them over and cook them in butter in a covered stewpan; then make
+a Villeroy (No. 18), dip the fillets into it and fry them in clarified
+butter.
+
+
+
+
+No. 45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster)
+
+Ingredients: Lobsters, Velute sauce, Marsala, butter, forcemeat of fish,
+olives, anchovy butter, button mushrooms, truffles, lemon, crayfish,
+Italian sauce.
+
+Two boiled lobsters are necessary. Cut all the flesh of one of the
+lobsters into fillets and put them into a saucepan with half a cup of
+Velute sauce (No. 2) and half a glass of Marsala, and boil for a few
+minutes. Put a crouton of fried bread on an oval dish and cover it with
+a forcemeat of fish, and on this place the whole lobster, cover it with
+buttered paper, and put it in a moderate oven just long enough to cook
+the forcemeat. Then make some quenelles of anchovy butter, olives, and
+button mushrooms, mix them with Italian sauce (No. 6), and garnish the
+dish with them, and round the crouton arrange the fillets of lobster
+with a garnish of slices of truffle. Add a dessert-spoonful of crayfish
+butter and a good squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce, and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod)
+
+Ingredients: Cod or hake, carrots, turnips, butter, herbs.
+
+Boil a piece of cod or hake and break it up into flakes, then cut up two
+carrots and a turnip; boil them gently, and when they are half boiled
+drain and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, half a teacup
+of boiling water, salt, and herbs. When they are well cooked add the
+fish and serve. Fillets of lemon soles may also be cooked this way.
+
+
+
+
+No. 47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet)
+
+Ingredients: Mullet, salt, pepper, onions, parsley, oil, water.
+
+Cut a mullet into pieces and put it into a stewpan (with the lid
+on), with salt, pepper, a cut-up onion, some chopped parsley, half a
+wineglass of the finest olive oil and half a pint of water, and in this
+cook the fish gently. Arrange the fillets on a dish, pour a little of
+the broth over them, and add the onion and parsley. Instead of mullet
+you can use cod, hake, whiting, lemon sole, &c.
+
+
+
+
+No. 48. Mullet alla Tolosa
+
+Ingredients: Mullet, butter, salt, onions, parsley, almonds, anchovies,
+button mushrooms, tomatoes.
+
+Cut off the fins and gills of a mullet, put it in a fireproof dish with
+two ounces of butter and salt. Cut up a small bit of onion, a sprig
+of parsley, a few blanched almonds, one anchovy, and a few button
+mushrooms, previously softened in hot water, and put them over the fish
+and bake for twenty minutes Then add two tablespoonsful of tomato
+sauce or puree, and when cooked serve. If you like, use sole instead of
+mullet.
+
+
+
+
+No. 49. Mullet alla Triestina
+
+Ingredients: Mullet (or sole or turbot), butter, salt half a lemon,
+Chablis.
+
+Put the fish in a fireproof dish with one and a half ounces of butter,
+salt, a squeeze of lemon juice, and half a glass of Chablis. Put it on
+a very, slow fire and turn the fish when necessary. When it is cooked
+serve in the dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 50. Whiting alla Genovese
+
+Ingredients: Whiting, butter, pepper, salt, bay leaf claret, parsley,
+onions, garlic capers, vinegar, Espagnole sauce, mushrooms, anchovies.
+
+Put one or two whiting into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, salt,
+pepper, two bay leaves, and a glass of claret or Burgundy; cook on a hot
+fire and turn the fish when necessary. Have ready beforehand a remoulade
+sauce made in the following manner: Put in a saucepan 1 1/2 ounces of
+butter, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half an onion, a clove of
+garlic (with one cut), four capers, one anchovy, all chopped up except
+the garlic. Then add three tablespoonsful of vinegar and reduce the
+sauce. Add two glasses of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and a little good
+stock; boil it all up (take out the garlic and bay leaves) and pass
+through a sieve, then pour it over the whiting. Boil it all again for
+a few minutes, and before serving garnish with a few button mushrooms
+cooked separately. The remoulade sauce will be much better if made some
+hours beforehand.
+
+
+
+
+No. 51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod)
+
+Ingredients: Cod or whiting, salt, onions, parsley, cloves, turnips,
+marjoram, chervil, milk.
+
+Boil gently in a big cupful of salted water two onions, one turnip, a
+pinch of chopped parsley, chervil, and marjoram and four cloves. After
+half an hour pass this through a sieve (but first take out the cloves),
+and add an equal quantity of milk and a little cream, and in this cook
+the fish and serve with the sauce over it.
+
+
+
+
+No. 52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod)
+
+Ingredients: Cod, hake, whiting or red mullet, onions, parsley, mint,
+marjoram, turnips, mushrooms, chervil, cloves, salt, milk, cream, eggs.
+
+Put a salt-spoonful of salt, two onions, a little parsley, marjoram,
+mint, chervil, a turnip, a mushroom, and the heads of two cloves into
+a stewpan and simmer in a cupful of milk for half an hour, then let all
+the ingredients settle at the bottom, and pass the broth through a hair
+sieve, and add to it an equal quantity of milk or cream, and in it cook
+your fish on a slow fire. When the fish is quite cooked, pour off the
+sauce, but leave a little on the fish to keep it warm; reduce the rest
+in a bain-marie; stir all the time, so that the milk may not curdle.
+Thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg, and when about to serve pour
+it over the fish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock)
+
+Ingredients: Haddock or lemon sole, carrots, anchovies, lemon, pepper,
+butter, onions, flour, white wine, stock.
+
+Stuff a haddock (or filleted lemon sole) with some slices of carrot
+which have been masked with a paste made of pounded anchovies, very
+little chopped lemon peel, salt and pepper. Then fry an onion with two
+cuts across it in butter. Take out the onion as soon as it has become a
+golden colour, flour the fish and put it in the butter, and when it has
+been well fried on both sides pour a glass of Marsala over it, and when
+it is all absorbed add a cup of fowl or veal stock and let it simmer for
+half an hour, then skim and reduce the sauce, pour it over the fish and
+serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting)
+
+Ingredients: Whiting, onions, parsley, peas, tomatoes, butter, Parmesan,
+Bechamel sauce.
+
+Cut a big whiting into two or three pieces and fry them slightly in
+butter, add a small bit of onion, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+fry for a few minutes more. Then add some peas which have been cooked in
+salted water, three tablespoonsful of Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and three
+of tomato puree, and cook all together on a moderate fire.
+
+
+
+
+No. 55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters)
+
+Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, shallot, anchovies, fennel pepper, bread
+crumbs, cream, lemon.
+
+Detach the oysters from their shells and put then into china shells with
+their own liquor. Have ready a dessert-spoonful of parsley, shallot,
+anchovy and very little fennel, add a tablespoonful of bread crumbs and
+a little pepper, and mix the whole with a little cream. Put some of
+this mixture on each oyster, and then bake them in a moderate fire for
+a quarter of an hour. At the last minute add a squeeze of lemon juice to
+each oyster and serve on a folded napkin.
+
+
+
+
+No. 56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters)
+
+Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, celery, thyme, pepper, garlic, oil,
+lemon.
+
+Prepare the oysters as above, but rub each shell with a little garlic.
+Put on each oyster a mixture made of chopped parsley, a little thyme,
+pepper, and bread crumbs. Then pour a few drops of oil on each shell,
+put them on the gridiron on an open fire, grill for a few minutes, and
+add a little lemon juice before serving.
+
+
+
+
+No. 57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters)
+
+Ingredients: Oysters, butter, shallots, truffles, lemon juice, forcemeat
+of fish.
+
+Take several oysters out of their shells and cook them in butter, a
+little chopped shallot, and their own liquor, add a little lemon juice
+and then put in each of the deeper shells a layer of forcemeat made of
+fish and chopped truffles, then an oyster or two, and over this again
+another layer of the forcemeat, cover up with the top shell and put them
+in a fish kettle and steam them. Then remove the top shell and arrange
+the shells with the oysters on a napkin and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish)
+
+Ingredients: Any sort of fish, celery, parsley, carrots, garlic, onion,
+anchovies, almonds, capers, mushrooms, butter, salt, pepper, flour,
+tomatoes.
+
+Chop up a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a carrot, an onion. Pound
+up an anchovy in brine (well cleaned, boned, and scaled), four shredded
+almonds, three capers and two mushrooms. Put all this into a saucepan
+with one ounce of butter, salt and pepper, and fry for a few minutes,
+then add a few spoonsful of hot water and a tablespoonful of flour and
+boil gently for ten minutes, put in the fish and cook it until it is
+done. If you like, you may add a little tomato sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot)
+
+Ingredients: Fish (sole, mullet, or turbot), butter, salt, onion,
+garlic, carrots, celery, parsley, nutmeg, pepper, spice, mushrooms,
+tomatoes, flour, anchovies.
+
+Fry an onion slightly in one and a half ounces of butter, add a small
+cut-up carrot, half a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, and a salt
+anchovy (scaled), which will dissolve in the butter. Into this put the
+fish cut up in pieces, a pinch of spice and pepper, and let it simmer
+for a few minutes, then add two cut-up mushrooms, a tomato mashed up,
+and a little flour. Mix all together, and cook for twenty minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole)
+
+Ingredients: Sole, onion, beetroot, butter, celery, tomato sauce or
+white wine.
+
+Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in one ounce of butter, then
+add some slices of beetroot (well-washed and drained), and a little
+celery cut up; to this add fillets of sole or haddock, salt and pepper.
+Boil on a moderate on the fish kettle. When the beetroot is nearly
+cooked add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree and boil till all is well
+cooked. Instead of the tomato you may use half a glass of Chablis.
+
+
+
+
+No. 61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole)
+
+Ingredients: Sole (or mullet), butter, anchovies, parsley, garlic,
+capers, eggs.
+
+Put an ounce of butter and an anchovy in a saucepan together with a sole
+or mullet. Fry lightly for a few minutes, then strew a little pepper and
+chopped parsley over it, put in a clove of garlic with one cut, and cook
+for half an hour, but turn the fish over when one side is sufficiently
+done. A few minutes before taking it off the fire add three capers and
+stir in the yolk of an egg at the last minute. Do not leave the garlic
+in more than five minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole)
+
+Ingredients: Sole, butter, garlic, pepper, salt, tomatoes, fennel.
+
+Fillet a sole and put it in a saute-pan with one and a half ounces of
+butter and a clove of garlic with one cut in it, then sprinkle over it
+a little chopped fennel, salt and pepper, and let it cook for a few
+minutes. Turn over the fillets w hen they are sufficiently cooked on one
+side, take out the garlic and cover the fish with a puree of tomatoes at
+the last.
+
+
+
+
+No. 63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole)
+
+Ingredients: Sole, anchovies, butter, bacon, onion, stock, Chablis,
+salt, nutmeg, parsley, Spanish olives, one bay leaf.
+
+Fillet a sole and interlard each piece with a bit of anchovy. Tie up the
+fillets and put them in a saute-pan with two ounces of butter, a slice
+of bacon or ham, and a few small slices of onion. Cover half over with
+good stock and a glass of Chablis, and add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, a
+bunch of parsley, and a bay leaf. Cover with buttered paper, and cook on
+a slow fire for about an hour. Drain the fish, pass the liquor through
+a sieve, reduce it to the consistency of a thick sauce, and pour it over
+the fish. Garnish each fillet with a Spanish olive stuffed with anchovy.
+
+
+
+
+No. 64. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).*
+
+Ingredients: Sole, Parmesan, butter, cream, cayenne.
+
+Fillet a sole and wipe each piece with a clean cloth, then place them in
+a fireproof dish, and put a small piece of butter on each fillet. Then
+make a good white sauce, and mix it with two tablespoonsful of grated
+Parmesan and half a gill of cream. Cover the fish well with the sauce,
+and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes.
+
+*Lemon soles may be used in any of the above-named dishes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon)
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, Genoese sauce (No. 5), butter, lemon.
+
+Boil a bit of salmon, drain it, take off the skin, and mask it with a
+Genoese sauce, to which add a spoonful of the water in which the salmon
+has been boiled, and at the last add a pat of fresh butter and a squeeze
+of lemon juice.
+
+
+
+
+No. 66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon)
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, truffles, butter, Madeira,
+croutons of bread, crayfish tails, anchovy butter.
+
+Cut a bit of salmon into well shaped fillets, and marinate them in lemon
+juice and a bunch of herbs for two hours, wipe them, put a layer of
+forcemeat of fish over each, and decorate them with slices of truffle.
+When put them into a well-buttered saute-pan with half a cup of stock
+and a glass of Madeira or Marsala, cover with buttered paper, and put
+them into a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Arrange the fillets in a
+circle on croutons of bread, garnish the centre with crayfish tails and
+with truffles cut into dice, a quarter of a pint of Velute sauce (No.
+2), and half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter. Glaze the fillets and
+serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon)
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, vegetables, butter, Bechamel,
+and Espagnole sauce.
+
+Prepare the fillets as above (No. 66), and put on each a layer of
+white forcemeat of fish. Cook a macedoine of vegetables separately, and
+garnish each fillet with some of it, then cook them in a covered stewpan
+Put a crouton of bread in an entree dish and garnish it with cooked
+peas, mixed with Bechamel sauce (No. 3), stock, and butter. Around this
+place the fillets of fish, leaving the centre with the peas uncovered.
+Pour some rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) round the fillets and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon)
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, thyme, salt, pepper, nutmeg,
+mayonnaise sauce, lobster butter, gelatine, Velute sauce, olives,
+anchovy butter, white truffles, mushrooms in oil, crayfish.
+
+Boil a piece of salmon, and when cold cut it into fillets and marinate
+them for two hours in oil, lemon juice, salt, thyme pepper, and nutmeg.
+Then make a good mayonnaise and add to it some lobster butter mixed with
+a little dissolved gelatine and Velute sauce (No. 2). Wipe the fillets
+and arrange them in a circle on a dish, and pour the mayonnaise over
+them. Then decorate the border of the dish with aspic jelly, and in
+the centre put some stoned Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy butter,
+truffles, mushrooms in oil, and crayfish tails.
+
+
+
+
+No. 69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon)
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, eggs, mayonnaise, parsley, flour.
+
+Marinate a piece of boiled salmon for an hour; take out the bone and
+cut the fish into fillets, wipe them, roll them in flour and dip them
+in eggs beaten up or in mayonnaise sauce, and fry them a good colour.
+Arrange in a circle on the dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve
+with Dutch or mayonnaise sauce. Any fillets of fish may be cooked in
+this manner.
+
+
+
+
+No. 70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon)
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, butter, onions, parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg,
+stock, Chablis, Espagnole sauce (No.1) mushrooms, anchovy butter, lemon.
+
+Put a firm piece of salmon in a stewpan with one and a half ounces of
+butter, an onion cut up, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley (blanched),
+salt, pepper, very little nutmeg, a cup of stock, and a glass of
+Chablis. Cook for half an hour over a hot fire, turn the salmon
+occasionally, and if it gets dry, add a cup of Espagnole sauce. Let
+it boil until sufficiently cooked, and then put it on a dish. Into the
+sauce put four mushrooms cooked in white sauce, half a teaspoonful of
+anchovy butter and a little lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the salmon
+and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte
+
+Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, herbs.
+
+Cut a piece of salmon into fillets, marinate them in oil, lemon juice,
+salt, pepper, nutmeg, and herbs for two hours. Wipe and put them into
+paper souffle cases with a little oil, butter, and herbs. Cook them on a
+gridiron, and serve with a sauce piquante made in the following manner:
+Half a pint of rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and a dessert-spoonful of
+New Century{*} sauce, warmed up in a bain-marie.
+
+*Can be obtained at Messrs Lazenby's, Wigmoree Street, W.
+
+
+
+
+Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &C.
+
+
+
+
+No. 72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef)
+
+Ingredients: Fillet of beef or rump steak, bacon, olive oil, salt,
+nutmeg, anchovies, herbs, stock, garlic.
+
+Put a piece of very tender rump steak or fillet of beef into a stewpan
+with two slices of fat bacon and three teaspoonsful of the finest olive
+oil; season with salt and a tiny pinch of nutmeg; let it cook uncovered,
+and turn the meat over occasionally. When it is nicely browned add an
+anchovy minced and mixed with chopped herbs, and a small clove of garlic
+with one cut across it. Then cover the whole with good stock, put the
+cover on the stewpan, and when it is all sufficiently cooked, skim the
+grease off the sauce, pass it through a sieve, and pour it over the
+beef. Leave the garlic in for five minutes only.
+
+
+
+
+No. 73. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef)
+
+Ingredients: Beef, mutton, or veal, onions, rosemary, Burgundy,
+tomatoes, stock, potatoes, butter, garlic.
+
+Cut up an onion and three leaves of rosemary, fry them slightly in
+an ounce of butter, then add meat (beef, mutton, or veal), cut into
+fair-sized pieces, salt it and fry it a little, then pour half a glass
+of Burgundy over it, and add two tablespoonsful of tomato conserve, or
+better still, fresh tomatoes in a puree. Cover up the stewpan and cook
+gently, stir occasionally, and add some stock if the stew gets too dry.
+If you like to add potatoes, cut them up, put them in the stewpan an
+hour before serving, and cook them with the meat. A clove of garlic with
+one cut may be added for five minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak)
+
+Ingredients: Rump steak, ham, salt, pepper, spice, fat bacon, onion,
+stock, white wine.
+
+Lard a bit of good rump steak with bits of lean ham, and season it with
+salt, pepper, and a little spice, slightly brown it in butter for a few
+minutes, then cover it with three or four slices of fat bacon and put it
+into a stewpan with an onion chopped up, a cup of good stock, and half
+a glass of white wine; cook with the cover on the stewpan for about an
+hour. You may add a clove of garlic for ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives)
+
+Ingredients: Beef steak, butter, onions, stock, sausage meat.
+
+Cut some thin slices of beef steak, and on each place a little forcemeat
+of fowl or veal, to which add a little sausage meat: roll up the slices
+of beef and cook them with butter and onions, and when they are well
+browned pour some stock over them, and let them absorb it. Serve with a
+tomato sauce (No. 10), or sauce piquante made with a quarter of a pint
+of rich Espagnole (No. 1), and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce
+(see No. 71 note).
+
+
+
+
+No. 76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef)
+
+Ingredients: Rump steak, bacon, ham, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves,
+butter, onions, Burgundy.
+
+Beat a piece of rump steak to make it tender and lard it well, cut up
+some bits of fat bacon and dust them over with salt, pepper, and a tiny
+pinch of cinnamon, and put them on the steak. Stick three cloves into
+the steak, then put it into a stewpan, add a little of the fat of the
+beef chopped up, an ounce of butter, an onion cut up, and some bits of
+lean ham. Put in sufficient stock to cover the steak, add a glass of
+Burgundy, and stew gently until it is cooked.
+
+
+
+
+No. 77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef)
+
+Ingredients: Beef, salt, larding bacon, Burgundy, vinegar, spices,
+herbs, flour.
+
+Beat a piece of rump steak, or fillet to make it tender; sprinkle it
+well with salt and some chopped herbs, and leave it for an hour; then
+lard it and marinate it as follows: Half a pint of red wine (Australian
+Harvest Burgundy is best), half a glass of vinegar, a pinch of spice,
+and a bouquet of herbs; leave it in this for twenty-four hours then take
+it out, drain it well sprinkle it with flour, and roast it for twenty
+minutes before a clear fire, braize it till quite tender, then press and
+glaze it. The thin end of a sirloin is excellent cooked this way. Serve
+cold.
+
+
+
+
+No. 78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef)
+
+Ingredients: Beef, beetroot, salt.
+
+Cut up three raw beetroots put them into an earthen ware pot and cover
+them with water. Keep them in some warm place, and allow them to ferment
+for five, six, or eight days according to the season; the froth at the
+top of the water will indicate the necessary fermentation. The take out
+the pieces of beetroot, skim off all the froth, and into the fermented
+liquor put a good piece of tender rump steak or fillet with some salt.
+Braize for four hours and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef)
+
+Ingredients: Beef, oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, parsley, capers,
+mushrooms, olives, vegetables.
+
+Cook a fillet of beef (or the thin end of a sirloin), which has been
+previously marinated for two days in oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+chopped parsley. When cold press and glaze it, garnish it with capers,
+mushrooms preserved in vinegar or gherkins, olives, and any kind of
+vegetables marinated like the beef. Serve cold.
+
+
+
+
+No. 80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios)
+
+Ingredients: Fillet of beef, oil, salt, flour, pistacchio nuts, gravy.
+
+Cut a piece of tender beef into little fillets, and put a them in a
+stewpan with a tablespoonful of olive oil and salt. After they have
+cooked for a few minutes, powder them with flour, and strew over each
+fillet some chopped pistacchio nuts. Add a few spoonsful of very good
+boiling gravy, and cook for another half-hour.
+
+
+
+
+No. 81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto)
+
+Ingredients: Rump steak, butter, rice, truffles, tongue, stock,
+mushrooms.
+
+Slightly stew a bit of rump steak with bits of tongue and mushrooms; let
+it get cold, and cut it into scallops. Butter a pie dish, and garnish
+the bottom of it with cooked tongue and slices of cooked truffle, then
+over this put a layer of well-cooked and seasoned risotto (No. 190),
+then a layer of the scallops of beef, and then another layer of risotto.
+Heat in a bain-marie, and turn out of the pie dish, and serve with a
+very good sauce poured round it.
+
+
+
+
+No. 82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal)
+
+Ingredients: Tendons of veal, fowl forcemeat, truffles, risotto (No.
+190), a cock's comb, tongue.
+
+Tendons of veal are that part of the breast which lies near the ribs,
+and forms an opaque gristly substance. Partly braize a fine bit of
+this joint, and press it between two plates till cold. Cut it up into
+fillets, and on each spread a thin layer of fowl forcemeat, and decorate
+with slices of truffle. Put the fillets into a stewpan, cover them with
+very good stock, and boil till the forcemeat and truffles are quite
+cooked. Prepare a risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), put it on a dish and
+decorate it with bits of red tongue cut into shapes, and in the centre
+put a whole cooked truffle and a white cock's comb, both on a silver
+skewer. Place the tendons of veal round the dish. Add a good Espagnole
+sauce (No. 1) and serve.
+
+If you like, leave out the risotto and serve the veal with Espagnole
+sauce mixed with cooked peas and chopped truffle.
+
+
+
+
+No. 83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets)
+
+Ingredients: Veal, salt, pepper, butter, bacon, carrots, flour, Chablis,
+water, lemon.
+
+Cut a bit of veal steak into pieces the size of small cutlets, salt
+and pepper them, and put them in a wide low stewpan. Add two ounces of
+butter, a cut-up carrot, and some bits of bacon also cut up. When they
+are browned, add a spoonful of flour, half a glass of Chablis, and half
+a glass of water, and cook on a slow fire for half an hour, then take
+out the cutlets, reduce the sauce, and pass it through a sieve. Put it
+back on the fire and add an ounce of butter and a good squeeze of lemon,
+and when hot pour it over the cutlets.
+
+
+
+
+No. 84. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets)
+
+Ingredients: Veal cutlets (fowl or turkey cutlets), forcemeat, truffles,
+mushrooms, tongue, parsley, pasta marinate (No. 17).
+
+Cut a few horizontal lines along your cutlets, and on each put a
+little veal or fowl forcemeat, to which add in equal quantities chopped
+truffles, tongue, mushrooms, and a little parsley. Over this put a thin
+layer of pasta marinate, and fry the cutlets on a slow fire.
+
+
+
+
+No. 85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal)
+
+Ingredients: Breast of veal, butter, onions, sugar, stock, red wine,
+mushrooms, bacon, salt, flour, bay leaf.
+
+Roast a bit of breast of veal, then glaze over two Spanish onions with
+butter and a little sugar, and when they are a good colour pour a teacup
+of stock and a glass of Burgundy over them, and add a few mushrooms,
+a bay leaf, some salt, and a few bits of bacon. When the mushrooms and
+onions are cooked, skim off the fat and thicken the sauce with a little
+flour and butter fried together; pour it over the veal and put the
+onions and mushrooms round the dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal)
+
+Ingredients: Veal, butter, Marsala, stock, lemon, bacon.
+
+Cut a tender bit of veal steak into small fillets, cut off all the fat
+and stringy parts, flour them and fry them in butter. When they are
+slightly browned add a glass of Marsala and a teacup of good stock, and
+fry on a very hot fire, so that the fillets may remain tender. Take them
+off the fire, put a little roll of fried bacon on each, add a squeeze of
+lemon juice, and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives)
+
+Ingredients: Veal steak, butter, bread, eggs, pistacchio nuts, spice,
+parsley.
+
+Cut some slices of veal steak very thin as for veal olives, and spread
+them out in a well-buttered stewpan. On each slice of veal put half a
+spoonful of the following mixture: Pound some crumb of bread and mix it
+with a whole egg; add a little salt, some pistacchio nuts, herbs, and
+parsley chopped up, and a little butter. Roll up each slice of veal,
+cover with a sheet of buttered paper, put the cover on the stewpan and
+cook for three-quarters of an hour in two ounces of butter on a slow
+fire. Thicken the sauce with a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter
+fried together.
+
+
+
+
+No. 88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal)
+
+Ingredients: Ribs of veal, butter, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs,
+parsley.
+
+Cut all the sinews from a piece of neck or ribs of veal, cover the meat
+with plenty of butter and half cook it on a slow fire, then let it get
+cold. When cold, egg it over and roll it in bread crumbs mixed with a
+tablespoonful of grated Parmesan; fry in butter and serve with a garnish
+of fried parsley and a rich sauce. A dessert-spoonful of New Century
+sauce mixed with quarter of a pint of good thick stock makes a good
+sauce. (See No. 226.)
+
+
+
+
+No. 89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets)
+
+Ingredients: Mutton cutlets, butter, olives, mushrooms, cucumbers.
+
+Trim as many cutlets as you require, and marinate them in vinegar,
+herbs, and spice for two hours. Before cooking wipe them well and then
+saute them in clarified butter, and when they are well coloured on both
+sides and resist the pressure of the finger, drain off the butter and
+pour four tablespoonsful of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) with a teaspoonful
+of vinegar and six bruised pepper corns over them. Arrange them on a
+dish, putting between each cutlet a crouton of fried bread, and garnish
+with olives stuffed with chopped mushrooms and with slices of fried
+cucumber.
+
+
+
+
+No. 90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton)
+
+Ingredients: Breast of mutton, veal, forcemeat, eggs, herbs, spice,
+Parmesan.
+
+Stuff a breast of mutton with veal forcemeat mixed with two eggs beaten
+up, herbs, a little spice, and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan,
+braize it in stock with a bunch of herbs and two onions. Serve with
+Italian sauce (No. 6).
+
+
+
+
+No. 91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton)
+
+Ingredients: Same as No. 90.
+
+When the breast of mutton has been stuffed and cooked as above, let it
+get cold and then cut it into fillets, flour them over, fry in butter,
+and serve with tomato sauce piquante (No. 10), or one dessert-spoonful
+of New Century sauce in a quarter pint of good stock or gravy.
+
+
+
+
+No. 92. Tenerumi d'Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb)
+
+Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, eggs, bread crumbs, truffles, butter,
+stock, Villeroy sauce.
+
+Slightly cook the tendons (the part of the breast near the ribs) of
+lamb, press them between two dishes till cold, then cut into a good
+shape and dip them into a Villeroy sauce (No. 18) egg and bread-crumb,
+and saute them in butter. When about to serve, put them in a dish with
+very good clear gravy. A teaspoonful of chopped mint and a tablespoonful
+of chopped truffles mixed with the bread crumbs will be a great
+improvement.
+
+
+
+
+No. 93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb)
+
+Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, butter, parsley, onions, stock.
+
+Fry the tendons of lamb in butter together with a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley and an onion. Serve with good gravy.
+
+
+
+
+No. 94. Costolette d' Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets)
+
+Ingredients: Lamb cutlets, butter, stock, cocks' combs, fowl's liver,
+mushrooms.
+
+Fry as many lamb cutlets as you require very sharply in butter, drain
+off the butter and replace it with some very good stock or gravy. Make
+a ragout of cocks' combs, bits of fowl's liver and mushrooms all cut up;
+add a white sauce with half a gill of cream mixed with it, and with this
+mask the cutlets, and saute them for fifteen minutes.
+
+
+
+
+Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &C.
+
+
+
+
+No. 95. Timballo alla Romana
+
+Ingredients: Cold fowl, game, or sweetbread, butter, lard, flour,
+Parmesan, truffles, macaroni, onions, cream.
+
+Make a light paste of two ounces of butter, two of lard, and half a
+pound of flour, and put it in the larder for two hours. In the meantime
+boil a little macaroni and let it get cold, then line a plain mould with
+the paste, and fill it with bits of cut-up fowl, or game, or sweetbread,
+bits of truffle cut in small dice, grated Parmesan, and a little chopped
+onion. Put these ingredients in alternately, and after each layer add
+enough cream to moisten. Fill the mould quite full, then roll out a thin
+paste for the top and press it well together at the edges to keep the
+cream from boiling out. Bake it in a moderate oven for an hour and
+a half, turn it out of the mould, and serve with a rich brown sauce.
+Decorate the top with bits of red tongue and truffles cut into shapes or
+with a little chopped pistacchio nut.
+
+
+
+
+No. 96. Timballo alla Lombarda
+
+Ingredients: Macaroni, fowl or game, eggs, stock, Velute sauce (No. 2),
+tongue, butter, truffles.
+
+Butter a smooth mould, then boil some macaroni, but take care that it is
+in long pieces. When cold, take the longest bits and line the bottom of
+the mould, making the macaroni go in circles; and when you come to the
+end of one piece, join on the next as closely as possible until the
+whole mould is lined; paint it over now and then with white of egg
+beaten up; then mask the whole inside with a thin layer of forcemeat of
+fowl, which should also be put on with white of egg to make it adhere;
+then cut up the bits of macaroni which remain, warm them up in some good
+fowl stock and Velute sauce much reduced, a little melted butter, some
+bits of truffle cut into dice, tongue, fowl, or game also cut up in
+pieces. When the mould is full, put on another layer of forcemeat, steam
+for an hour, then turn out and serve with a very good brown sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue)
+
+Ingredients: Tongue, glaze, bread, spinach, white grapes, port.
+
+Soak a smoked tongue in fresh water for forty-eight hours, then boil
+it till it is tender. Peel off the skin, cut the tongue in rather thick
+slices, and glaze them. Prepare an oval border of fried bread, cover it
+with spinach about two inches thick, and on this arrange the slices of
+tongue. Fill in the centre of the dish with white grapes cooked in port
+or muscat.
+
+
+
+
+No. 98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber)
+
+Ingredients: Ox tongue, salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, bacon, veal,
+carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, stock.
+
+Gently boil an ox tongue until you can peel off the skin, then lard it,
+season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley, and boil it
+with some bits of bacon, ham, veal, a carrot, an onion, two bay leaves,
+thyme and two cloves. Pour some good stock over it and let it simmer
+gently until it is cooked. Put the tongue on a dish and garnish it with
+slices of fried cucumber. Boil the cucumber for five minutes before you
+fry it, to take away the bitter taste. Serve the tongue with a sauce
+piquante, made with one dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce to a
+quarter pint of good Espangole sauce (No. 1).
+
+
+
+
+No. 99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues)
+
+Ingredients: Sheep's tongues, bacon, beef, onions, herbs, spice, eggs,
+butter, flour.
+
+Cook three or four sheep's tongues in good stock, and add some slices of
+bacon, bits of beef, two onions, a bunch of herbs, and a pinch of spice.
+Let them get cold, flour them and mask them with egg beaten up and fry
+quickly in butter. Serve with Italian sauce (No. 6)
+
+
+
+
+No. 100. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues)
+
+Ingredients: Calves' tongues, salt, butter, stock, water, glaze,
+potatoes, ham, truffles, sauce piquante.
+
+Rub a good handful of salt into two or three calves' tongues and leave
+them for twenty-four hours, then wash off all the salt and soak them in
+fresh water for two hours. Stew them gently till tender, take them out,
+skin and braize them in butter and good stock for half an hour. Let
+them get cold and cut them into slices about half an inch thick; put the
+slices into a buttered saute-pan and cover them with a good thick glaze;
+let them get quite hot and then arrange them on a border of potatoes,
+and garnish each slice with round shapes of cooked ham and truffle. Fill
+the centre with any vegetables you like; fried cucumber is excellent,
+but if you use it do not forget to boil it for five minutes before you
+fry it to take away the bitter taste. Serve with a sauce piquante (No.
+10, or No. 226).
+
+
+
+
+No. 101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig)
+
+Ingredients: Sucking pig, ham, eggs, Parmesan, truffles, mushrooms,
+garlic, bay leaves, coriander seeds, pistacchio nuts, veal forcemeat,
+suet, bacon, herbs, spice.
+
+Bone a sucking pig, remove all the inside and fill it with a stuffing
+made of veal forcemeat mixed with a little chopped suet, ham, bacon,
+herbs, two tablespoonsful of finely chopped pistacchio nuts, a pinch
+of spice, six coriander seeds, two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan,
+cuttings of truffles and mushrooms all bound together with eggs. Sew
+the pig up and braize it in a big stewpan with bits of bacon, a clove
+of garlic with two cuts, a bunch of herbs and one bay leaf, for half an
+hour. Then pour off the gravy, cover the pig with well-buttered paper,
+and finish cooking it in the oven. Garnish the top with vegetables and
+truffles cut into shapes, slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Serve
+with a good sauce piquante (No. 229). Do not leave the garlic in for
+more than ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig)
+
+Ingredients: Sucking pig, forcemeat of fowl, bacon, truffles, pistacchio
+nuts, ham, lemon, veal, bay leaves, salt, carrots, onions, shallots,
+parsley, stock, Chablis, gravy.
+
+Bone a sucking pig all except its feet, but be careful not to cut the
+skin on its back. Lay it out on a napkin and line it inside with a
+forcemeat of fowl and veal about an inch thick, over this put a layer of
+bits of marinated bacon, slices of truffle, pistacchio nuts, cooked ham,
+and some of the flesh of the pig, then another layer of forcemeat until
+the pig's skin is fairly filled. Keep its shape by sewing it lightly
+together, then rub it all over with lemon juice and cover it with slices
+of fat bacon, roll it up and stitch it in a pudding cloth. Then put the
+bones and cuttings into a stewpan with bits of bacon and veal steak cut
+up, two bay leaves, salt, a carrot, an onion, a shallot, and a bunch
+of parsley. Into this put the pig with a bottle of white wine and
+sufficient stock to cover it, and cook on a slow fire for three hours.
+Then take it out, and when cold take off the pudding-cloth. Pass the
+liquor through a hair sieve, and, if necessary, add some stock; reduce
+and clarify it. Decorate the dish with this jelly and serve cold.
+
+
+
+
+No. 103. Ateletti alla Sarda
+
+Ingredients: Veal or fowl, ox palates, stock, tongue, truffles, butter,
+mushrooms, sweetbread.
+
+Soak two ox palates in salted water for four hours, then boil them until
+the rough skin comes off, and cook them in good stock for six hours,
+press them between two plates and let them get cold. Roll some forcemeat
+of veal or fowl in flour, cut it into small pieces about the size of
+a cork, boil them in salted water, let them get cold and cut them into
+circular pieces. Cut the ox palates also into circular pieces the same
+size as the bits of forcemeat, then thinner circles of cooked tongue
+and truffles. String these pieces alternately on small silver skewers.
+Reduce to half its quantity a pint of Velute sauce (No. 2), and add the
+cuttings of the truffles, mushroom trimmings, bits of sweetbread, and
+a squeeze of lemon juice. Let it get cold and then mask the atelets
+(or skewers with the forcemeat, &c.) with it, and fry them quickly in
+butter. Fry a large oval crouton of bread, scoop out the centre and
+fill it with fried slices of cucumber and truffles boiled in a little
+Chablis. Stick the skewers into the crouton and pour the sauce round it.
+
+For a maigre dish use fillets of fish, truffles, mushrooms, and Bechamel
+sauce (No. 3). The cucumber should be boiled for five minutes before it
+is fried.
+
+
+
+
+No. 104. Ateletti alla Genovese
+
+Ingredients: Veal, sweetbread, calf's brains, ox palates, mushrooms,
+fonds d'artichauds, cocks' combs, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs.
+
+Cook two ox palates as in the last recipe, then take equal quantities
+of veal steak, sweetbread, calf's brains, equal quantities of mushrooms,
+fonds d'artichauds, and cocks' combs. Fry them all in butter except the
+palates, but be careful to put the veal in first, as it requires longer
+cooking; the brains should go in last. Then put all these ingredients
+on a cutting board and add the palates (cooked separately); cut them
+all into pieces of equal size, either round or square, but keep the
+ingredients separate, and string them alternately on silver skewers,
+as in the last recipe. Then pound up all the cuttings and add a little
+crumb of bread soaked in stock, the yolks of three eggs, the whites of
+two well beaten up, two dessert-spoonsful of grated Parmesan, salt to
+taste, and chopped truffles. Mix all this well together and mask the
+atelets with it; egg and bread crumb them and fry in butter. When they
+are a good colour, serve with fried parsley.
+
+
+
+
+No. 105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's head, veal, sweetbread, truffles, mushrooms,
+pistacchio nuts, eggs, herbs, spice, stock, bacon, ham.
+
+Boil a half calf's head well, and when it is half cold, bone it and fill
+it with a stuffing of veal, the calf's brains, sweetbread, truffles,
+mushrooms, pistacchio nuts, the yolks of two eggs, herbs, and a little
+spice. Then stitch it up and braize it in good stock, with some slices
+of bacon, ham, and a bunch of herbs. Serve with brain sauce mixed with
+cream.
+
+
+
+
+No. 106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's Head)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's head, calf's liver, bacon, suet, truffles, almonds,
+olives, calf's brains, capers, spice, coriander seeds, herbs, ham,
+stock.
+
+Boil half a calf's head, bone it and fill it with a stuffing made of
+four ounces of calf's liver, well chopped up and pounded in a mortar;
+two ounces of bacon, one ounce of suet, three truffles, six almonds,
+three olives, six coriander seeds, six capers, the calf's brains, a
+pinch of spice and a teaspoonful of chopped herbs. Roll up the head, tie
+it up and put it into a stewpan with some bits of bacon, ham, and very
+good stock, and stew it slowly. Serve with Neapolitan sauce (No.12), or
+with tomato sauce piquante (No. 10).
+
+
+
+
+No. 107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's head, calf's brains, cream, eggs, truffles,
+cinnamon, stock, butter, Parmesan.
+
+Boil and bone half a calf's head and fill it with a stuffing made of the
+calf's brains, a gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, two truffles cut
+up, a little chopped ham, and a tiny pinch of cinnamon. Boil it in good
+stock, and when it is sufficiently cooked take it out and mask it all
+over with a mixture of butter, yolk of egg, and a tablespoonful of
+grated Parmesan, then brown it in the oven and serve hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's head, sweetbread, fowl's liver, anchovies, herbs,
+capers, garlic, bacon, ham, Malmsey or Muscat.
+
+Boil and bone half a calf's head, and fill it with a stuffing made of
+half a pound of sweetbread, a fowl's liver, two anchovies, a teaspoonful
+of chopped herbs, a few chopped capers, and the calf's brains. Roll the
+head up, stitch it together and braize it in half a tumbler of Malmsey
+or Australian Muscat (Burgoyne's), half a cup of very good white stock,
+some bits of ham and bacon, and a clove of garlic with two cuts. Cook it
+gently for four hours and serve it with its own sauce. Do not leave the
+garlic in longer than ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's head, eggs, Parmesan, ham, pepper, butter, croutons.
+
+A good rechauffe' of calf's head may be made in the following manner:
+After the head has been well boiled in good stock, cut it into slices
+and mask these with a mixture of eggs well beaten up, grated Parmesan,
+pepper, and chopped ham. Fry in butter, and garnish with fried parsley
+and fried croutons. Serve with a sauce made of a quarter of a pint of
+good Bechamel (No. 3) and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet)
+
+Ingredients: Calves' or pigs' feet, butter, leeks or small onions,
+parsley, salt, pepper, stock, tomatoes, eggs, cheese, cinnamon.
+
+Blanch and bone two or more calves' or pigs' feet and put them into a
+stewpan with butter, leeks, or onions, chopped parsley, salt, pepper,
+and a little stock. Let them boil till the liquid is somewhat reduced,
+then add good meat gravy and two tablespoonsful of tomato puree, and
+just before taking the stewpan off the fire, add the yolks of two
+eggs beaten up, a tablespoonful of grated cheese, and a tiny pinch of
+cinnamon. Mix all well together and serve very hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 111. Bodini Marinati
+
+Ingredients: Veal forcemeat, truffles, sweetbread, mushrooms, herbs,
+flour, pasta marinate (No. 17), tongue, butter.
+
+Make a mixture of truffles, tongue, sweetbread, mushrooms, and herbs,
+all chopped up, and add it to a forcemeat of veal, the proportions being
+two-thirds veal forcemeat and the other ingredients one third. Mix this
+well and form it into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg,
+flour them and mask them all over with pasta marinate (No. 17). Fry
+them in butter over a slow fire, so that the balls may be well cooked
+through, and when they are the right colour dry them in a napkin and
+serve very hot.
+
+These bodini may be made with various ingredients; they will be most
+delicate with a forcemeat of fowl and bits of brain mixed with herbs,
+truffle, cooked ham, or tongue. They are also excellent made with fish
+(sole, mullet, turbot, &c.), either cooked or raw, and marinated in
+lemon, salt, pepper, oil, nutmeg, and parsley.
+
+
+
+
+No. 112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread)
+
+Ingredients: Sweetbread, bread crumbs, Parmesan, butter.
+
+Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, and then roll them in bread
+crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper; wrap them up in
+buttered grease-proof paper and grill them. When they are cooked, take
+off the paper, and serve with a good sauce in a sauce-boat.
+
+
+
+
+No. 113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread)
+
+Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, herbs, salt, pepper, bread crumbs,
+Parmesan, lemons, gravy, tomatoes.
+
+Blanch a pound of sweetbread cuttings, mix it with two ounces of melted
+butter, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper, and put it into paper souffle
+cases. Then strew over each some bread crumbs mixed with grated
+Parmesan, put the cases in the oven, and when they are browned serve
+either with good gravy and lemon juice or with tomato sauce (No. 9).
+
+
+
+
+No. 114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread)
+
+Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, onions, salt, herbs, eggs, glaze,
+Risotto (No. 190), truffles, quenelles of fowl, Espagnole sauce, white
+sauce.
+
+Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, cut them into quarters and
+saute them in butter with a small onion cut up, salt, and a bunch of
+herbs. Then pour over them two cups of white sauce and cook gently for
+twenty minutes; take out the sweetbreads and put them in a stewpan.
+Reduce the sauce, and add to it a mixture made of the yolks of four
+eggs, one and a half ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of glaze; pass it
+through a sieve, pour it over the sweetbreads, and keep them warm in a
+bain-marie. Have ready a good Risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), and put
+it into a border mould (but first decorate the inside of the mould with
+slices of truffle), put it in a moderate oven, and when it is warm turn
+it out on a dish. Place the sweetbreads on the risotto and fill in the
+centre with quenelles of fowl and Espagnole sauce (No. 1).
+
+
+
+
+No. 115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread)
+
+Ingredients: Sweetbreads, larding, bacon, stock, a macedoine of
+vegetables.
+
+Blanch two sweetbreads, lard them, and cook them very slowly in good
+stock. Skim the stock and reduce it to a glaze to cover the sweetbreads.
+Then cut them into three or four pieces and arrange them round a dish,
+but see that the larding is well glazed over. In the centre of the
+dish place a piece of bread in the shape of a cup and fill this with a
+macedoine of vegetables.
+
+
+
+
+No. 116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbread and Mushrooms)
+
+Ingredients: Sweetbread, fresh button mushrooms, flour, bread crumbs,
+salt, pepper, parsley, butter, lemons.
+
+Peel some button mushrooms and cut them in halves. Boil a sweetbread,
+and cut it into pieces about the same size as the mushrooms, flour, egg,
+and bread crumb them, and fry in butter; then serve with a garnish of
+fried parsley. Hand cut lemons with this dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 117. Cervello in Fili serbe (Calf's Brains)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's brains, stock, butter, parsley, lemon.
+
+Boil half a calf's brain in good stock for ten minutes then drain and
+pour a little melted butter and the juice of half a lemon over the
+brain; add some chopped parsley fried for one minute in butter, and
+serve as hot as possible.
+
+
+
+
+No. 118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's Brains)
+
+Ingredients: Calf s brains, eggs, bread crumbs, butter.
+
+Scald a calf's brain and let it get cold. Wipe it on a cloth, and get it
+as dry as possible, then cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut,
+egg and bread crumb them, fry in butter, and strew a little salt over
+them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's brains, eggs, flour, mushrooms, Velute sauce.
+
+Scald a calf's brain, and when cold cut it up and mask each piece with
+a thick sauce made of well-reduced Velute (No. 2), mixed with chopped
+cooked mushrooms; flour them over and dip them into the yolk of an egg,
+and fry as quickly as possible.
+
+
+
+
+No. 120. Frittura of Liver and Brains
+
+Ingredients: Calf's liver and brains (or lamb's or pig's fry), butter,
+ham, flour, puff pastry.
+
+Cut up half a pound of liver in small slices, flour and fry them in
+butter or dripping, together with a calf's or pig's or sheep's brain,
+previously scalded and also cut up. Serve with bits of fried ham and
+little diamond-shaped pieces of puff pastry.
+
+
+
+
+No. 121. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's brains, stock, cream, eggs, spice, Parmesan, butter.
+
+Boil a calf's brain in good stock for ten minutes, let it get cold, cut
+it up into little balls, and mask each piece with a mixture made of half
+a gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, a little spice, a tablespoonful
+of grated Parmesan, and the whites of two eggs well beaten up. Fry the
+balls in butter, and serve as hot as possible. You may mask and cook the
+calf's brain without cutting it up, if you prefer it so.
+
+
+
+
+No. 122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains)
+
+Ingredients: Calf's brains, stock, Bechamel sauce, eggs, butter, lemon,
+forcemeat of fowl, flour.
+
+Boil a calf's or sheep's brain in good stock, wipe it well, and cut it
+up. Reduce a pint of Bechamel (No. 3), and add to it the yolks of three
+eggs, an ounce of butter, and the juice of a lemon. When it boils throw
+in the cut-up brain; let it cool, then take out the brain and form it
+into little balls about the size of a small walnut. Make a forcemeat of
+fowl, and add a dessert-spoonful of flour to it, and spread it out
+very thin on a paste-board, and into this wrap the balls of brain, each
+separately. Dip them into a pasta marinate (No. 17), and fry them a
+golden brown.
+
+
+
+
+No. 123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread)
+
+Ingredients: Lamb's sweetbread, butter, onions, stock, Chablis, salt,
+lemon, herbs, cocks' combs, fowls' livers.
+
+Cut up equal quantities of lamb's sweetbreads, cocks' combs, fowls'
+livers in pieces about the size of a filbert, flour and fry them
+slightly in butter and a small bit of onion, add half a glass of
+Chablis, a cup of good stock, and a bunch of herbs. Reduce the sauce,
+and thicken it with a tablespoonful of butter and flour fried together.
+Make a border of Risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), and put the sweetbread,
+&c., together with the sauce in the centre.
+
+
+
+
+No. 124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry)
+
+Ingredients: Lamb's fry, ham, garlic, larding bacon, spice, herbs,
+butter, flour, stock.
+
+The lamb's fry should be nearly all sweetbread, and very little liver.
+Lard each piece with bacon and ham, and roll it in chopped herbs and a
+pinch of pounded spice. Then dip it in flour and braize in good stock,
+to which add three ounces of butter, some bits of bacon, ham, a bay
+leaf, herbs, and a clove of garlic with two cuts. Cook until the fry is
+well glazed over, and serve with Tarragon sauce (No. 8). Do not leave
+the garlic in longer than ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy
+
+Ingredients: Cocks' combs, calf's brains, sweetbread, stock, truffles,
+mushrooms, Villeroy, eggs, bread crumbs.
+
+Cook some big cocks' combs, bits of calf s brains, and sweetbread in
+good stock, then drain them and marinate them slightly in lemon juice
+and herbs. Prepare a Villeroy (No. 18), and add to it cuttings of
+sweetbread, brains, truffles, mushrooms, &c. When it is cold, mask the
+cocks' combs and other ingredients with it, egg and bread-crumb them,
+and fry them a golden brown.
+
+
+
+
+No. 126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese
+
+Ingredients: Sweetbread, calf s brains, ox palate, flour, eggs, Chablis,
+salt, herbs butter.
+
+Make a thin paste with a tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of two eggs,
+two Spoonsful of Chablis, and a little salt. Mix this up well, and if it
+is too thick add a little water. Beat up the whites of the two eggs into
+a snow. In the meantime blanch a sweetbread, half a calf's brain, and
+a few bits of cooked ox palate; boil them all up with a bunch of herbs;
+cut them into pieces about the size of a walnut, and dip them into
+the paste so that each piece is well covered, then dip them into the
+beaten-up whites of egg, and fry them very quickly in butter. This fry
+is generally served with a garnish of French beans, which should not
+be cut up, but half boiled, then dried, floured over and fried together
+with the other ingredients. The ox palates should be boiled for at least
+six hours before you use them in this dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers)
+
+Ingredients: Fowls' or turkeys' livers, flour, butter, parsley, onions,
+salt, pepper, stock, Chablis.
+
+Cut the livers in half, flour them, and fry lightly in butter with
+chopped parsley, very little chopped onion, salt and pepper, then add
+a quarter pint of boiling stock and half a glass of Chablis, and cook
+until the sauce is somewhat reduced. You can also cook the livers simply
+in good meat gravy, but in this case they should not be floured. Serve
+with a border of macaroni (No. 183), or Risotto (No. 190), or Polenta
+(No. 187).
+
+
+
+
+No. 128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' Livers)
+
+Ingredients: Fowls' livers, eggs, cheese, butter, cream, cayenne pepper.
+
+Braize two fowls' livers in butter, then pound them up, and mix with a
+little cream, a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a dust of cayenne.
+
+Spread this rather thickly over small squares of toast, and keep them
+hot whilst you make a custard with half an ounce of butter, an egg well
+beaten up, and a tablespoonful of cheese. Stir it over the fire till
+thick and then spread it on the hot toast. Serve very hot. This makes a
+good savoury.
+
+
+
+
+No. 129. Croutons alla Principesca
+
+Ingredients: Croutons, tongue, sweetbread, truffles, fowl or game,
+Velute sauce, stock, eggs, butter.
+
+Fry a bit of bread in butter till it is a light brown colour, then
+cut it into heart-shaped pieces. Prepare a ragout with bits of
+tongue, sweetbread, fowl or game, truffles, two or three spoonsful of
+well-reduced Velute sauce (No. 2), and two or three of reduced gravy.
+Put a spoonful of the ragout in each crouton, and over it a layer of
+fowl forcemeat half an inch thick; trim the edges neatly, glaze them
+with the yolk of eggs beaten up, and put them in a buttered fireproof
+dish in the oven for twenty minutes. Then glaze them with reduced stock
+and serve hot.
+
+For a maigre dish use fish for the ragout and forcemeat.
+
+
+
+
+No. 130. Croutons alla Romana
+
+Ingredients: Bread, fowl forcemeat, tongue, truffles, herbs, cream,
+stock, butter, flour, eggs.
+
+Cut a bit of crumb of bread into round or square shapes, and on each put
+a spoonful of fowl or rabbit forcemeat, a little chopped tongue, and a
+slight flavouring of chopped herbs; cover with a slice of bread the same
+shape as the underneath piece, put them in a buttered fireproof dish,
+and moisten them well with cream, butter, and stock. Cook until all the
+liquor is absorbed, but turn them over so that both sides may be well
+cooked, then flour and dip them into beaten-up eggs; fry them a good
+colour and serve very hot.
+
+For a maigre dish use forcemeat of fish or lobster, and more cream
+instead of stock.
+
+
+
+
+Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c.
+
+
+
+
+No. 131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, Bechamel, stock, semolina flour, potatoes, salt,
+eggs, butter, smoked tongue or ham.
+
+Prepare a puree of fowl or turkey and a small quantity of grated tongue
+or ham, and whilst you are pounding the meat add some good gravy or
+stock. Then make a Bechamel sauce (No. 3) and add two table-spoonsful
+of semolina flour, a boiled potato and salt to taste, boil it up and add
+the puree of fowl, then let it get nearly cold, add yolks of eggs and
+the white beaten up into a snow. (For one pint of the puree use the
+yolks of three eggs.) Pour the whole into a buttered souffle case, and
+half an hour before serving put it in a moderate oven and serve hot. You
+can use game instead of fowl, and serve in little souffle cases.
+
+
+
+
+No. 132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, butter, vegetables, rice or macaroni, peppercorns,
+stock, ham, tomatoes, bay leaves, onions, cloves, Liebig.
+
+Roll up a fowl in buttered paper and put it in the oven in a fireproof
+dish with all kinds of vegetables and a few peppercorns. Leave it there
+for about two hours, then put the fowl and vegetables into two quarts of
+good stock and let it simmer for one hour; serve on well-boiled rice
+or macaroni and pour the following sauce over it. Sauce: Two pounds
+tomatoes, one big cup of good stock, a quarter pound of chopped ham,
+three bay leaves, one onion stuck with cloves, one teaspoonful of
+Liebig. Simmer an hour and a half.
+
+
+
+
+No. 133. Pollo all'Oliva (Chicken)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, onions, celery, salt, parsley, carrots, butter,
+stock, olives, tomatoes.
+
+Cut up half an onion, a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a carrot,
+and cook them all in a quarter pound of butter. Into this put a fowl cut
+up and let it act brown all over, turn when necessary and then baste
+it with boiling stock. Add four Spanish olives cut up and four others
+pounded in a mortar, eight whole olives and three tablespoonsful of
+tomato puree reduced, and when the fowl is well cooked pour the sauce
+over it.
+
+
+
+
+No. 134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, butter, flour, stock, bacon, ham, mushrooms, onions,
+cloves, eggs, cream, lemons.
+
+Cut up a fowl into quarters and put it into a saucepan with three ounces
+of butter and a tablespoonful of flour Put it on the fire, and when it
+is well browned add half a pint of stock, bits of bacon and ham, butter,
+three mushrooms (previously boiled), an onion stuck with three cloves.
+When this is cooked skim off the grease, pass the sauce through a sieve,
+and add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream.
+Lastly, add a squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce and pour it over the
+fowl.
+
+
+
+
+No. 135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken)
+
+Ingredients: The same as No. 134 and tomatoes.
+
+Cook the fowl exactly as above, but add either a puree of tomatoes or
+tomato sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, butter, parsley, lemon, small onions, bread crumbs.
+
+Cut up a fowl and put it into a frying pan with two ounces of butter,
+one onion cut up and a sprig of chopped parsley, salt and pepper; put
+it on the fire and cook it, but turn the pieces several times: then take
+them out and roll them whilst hot in bread crumbs, and fry them. Serve
+with cut lemons.
+
+
+
+
+No. 137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, butter, fat bacon, ham, mushrooms, truffles, herbs,
+spice, gravy.
+
+Cut up a fowl and cook it in a fricassee of butter, bacon, ham, herbs,
+mushrooms, truffles, spice, and good gravy or stock. Serve in its own
+gravy.
+
+
+
+
+No. 138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl)
+
+Ingredients: Fowl, bacon, ham, bay leaf, spice, garlic, Burgundy,
+tomatoes.
+
+Braize a fowl with bits of fat bacon, ham, a bay leaf, a clove of garlic
+with one cut in it, a pinch of spice, and a glass of Burgundy. Only
+leave the garlic in for five minutes. When cooked serve with tomato
+sauce (No. 9).
+
+
+
+
+No. 139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice)
+
+Ingredients: Capon, veal forcemeat, fat bacon, stock, rice, truffles,
+mushrooms, cocks' combs, kidneys or fowls' liver, supreme sauce, milk,
+Chablis.
+
+Stuff a fine capon with a good firm forcemeat made of veal, tongue, ham,
+and chopped truffles; cover it with larding bacon; tie it up in buttered
+paper, and cook it in very good white stock. In the meantime boil four
+ounces of rice in milk till quite stiff, mix in some chopped truffles,
+and make ten little timbales of it. Take out the capon when it is
+sufficiently cooked and place it on a dish; garnish it with cooked
+mushrooms, cocks' combs, kidneys, or fowls' livers, and pour a sauce
+supreme (No. 16) over it; round the dish place the timbales of rice,
+and between each put a whole truffle cooked in white wine. Serve a sauce
+supreme in a sauce bowl.
+
+
+
+
+No. 140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey)
+
+Ingredients: Turkey, sausage meat, prunes, chestnuts, a pear, butter,
+Marsala, salt, rosemary, bacon, carrot, onion, turnip, garlic.
+
+Blanch for seven or eight minutes three prunes, quarter of a pound of
+sausage meat, three tablespoonsful of chestnut puree, two small slices
+of bacon, half a cooked pear, and saute them in butter; chop up the
+liver and gizzard of the turkey, mix them with the other ingredients,
+and add half a glass of Marsala; use this as a stuffing for the turkey,
+and first braize it for three quarters of an hour with salt, butter,
+a blade of rosemary, bits of fat bacon, a carrot, a turnip, an onion,
+three cloves, and a clove of garlic with a cut; then roast it before a
+clear fire for about twenty minutes; put it back into the sauce till it
+is ready to serve. Only leave the garlic in ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 141. Tacchinotto all'Istrione (Turkey Poult)
+
+Ingredients: A turkey poult, ham, mace, bay leaves, lemons, water, salt,
+onions, parsley, celery, carrots, Chablis.
+
+Truss a turkey poult, and cover it all over with slices of ham or bacon,
+put two bay leaves and four slices of lemon on it, and sprinkle with a
+small pinch of mace, then sew it up tight in a dishcloth, and stew it in
+good stock, salt, an onion, parsley, a stick of celery, a carrot, and a
+pint of Chablis; cook for an hour, take it out of the cloth, and pour a
+good rich sauce over it. It is also good cold with aspic jelly.
+
+
+
+
+No. 142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant)
+
+Ingredients: Pheasant, macaroni, gravy, butter, Parmesan, tomatoes.
+
+Lard a pheasant, roast it, and serve it on a layer of macaroni cooked
+with good reduced gravy, two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of grated
+Parmesan, and a puree of tomatoes. Serve with Neapolitan sauce (No. 12)
+in a sauce bowl.
+
+
+
+
+No. 143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant)
+
+Ingredients: Pheasant, butter, truffles, larding bacon, Madeira.
+
+Make a mixture of three tablespoonsful of chopped truffles, three ounces
+of butter and a little salt, and with this stuff a pheasant. Then cover
+it with slices of fat bacon and keep it in a cool place till next day.
+A few hours before serving, roast the pheasant and baste it well with
+melted butter and a wine-glass of Madeira or Marsala. Make a crouton
+of fried bread the shape of your dish, and over this put a Layer of
+forcemeat of fowl and a number of small fowl quenelles; cover them with
+buttered paper, then put the dish in the oven for a few minutes so as
+to settle the forcemeat. When the pheasant is cooked, place it on the
+crouton and garnish it with slices of truffle which have been previously
+cooked in Madeira, and serve with a Perigord sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck)
+
+Ingredients: Wild duck, butter, fowls' livers, Marsala, gravy, turnips,
+carrots, parsley, mushrooms.
+
+Cut a wild duck into quarters and put it into a stewpan with two fowls'
+livers cut up and fried in butter. When the pieces of duck are coloured
+on both sides, pour off the butter, and in its place pour a glass of
+Marsala, a cup of stock, and a cup of Espagnole sauce (No.1), and cook
+gently for ten minutes. In the meantime shape and blanch six young
+turnips and as many young carrots, put them into a stewpan, and on the
+top of them put the pieces of wild duck, liver, &c. Pass the liquor
+through a sieve and pour it over the wild duck, add a bunch of parsley
+and other herbs and five little mushrooms cut up, and cook on a slow
+fire for half an hour. Skim the sauce, pass it through a sieve and add
+a pinch of sugar. Put the pieces of wild duck in an entree dish, add the
+vegetables, &c., pour the sauce over and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges)
+
+Ingredients: Partridges, cauliflower, bacon, sausage, fowls' livers,
+carrots, onions herbs, stock, gravy, butter, Madeira.
+
+Cut a cauliflower into quarters, blanch for a few minutes, drain, and
+put it into a saucepan with some bits of bacon. Let it drain on paper
+till dry, then arrange the bits in a circle in a deep stewpan, and in
+the centre put a small bit of sausage, the livers of the partridges,
+a fowl's liver cut up, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of herbs. Cover
+about three-quarters high with good stock and gravy, put butter on the
+top and boil gently for an hour; then take out the sausage, replace it
+by two or three partridges, and simmer for three-quarters of an hour. In
+the meantime cut a sausage in thin slices and line a mould with it. When
+the birds are cooked, take them out, drain and cut them up, and fill the
+mould with alternate layers of partridge and cauliflower, and steam
+for half an hour. Five minutes before serving turn the mould over on a
+plate, but do not take it off, so as to let all the grease drain off.
+Cut up the fowls' and partridges' livers, make them into scallops
+and glaze them. Wipe off all the grease round the mould; take it off,
+garnish the dish with the scallops of liver and serve hot with an
+Espagnole sauce (No. 1) reduced, and add a glass of Madeira or Marsala,
+and a glass of essence of game to it. This is an excellent way of
+cooking an old partridge or pheasant.
+
+
+
+
+No. 146. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe)
+
+Ingredients: Snipe, ham, larding bacon, herbs, Marsala, croutons,
+truffles, cocks' combs, mushrooms, sweetbread, tongue.
+
+Truss fourteen snipe and cook them in a mirepoix made with plenty of
+ham, fat bacon, herbs, and a wine glass of Marsala. When they are cooked
+pour off the sauce, skim off the grease and reduce it. Take the two
+smallest snipe and make a forcemeat of them by pounding them in a
+mortar with the livers of all the snipe, then dilute this with reduced
+Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and add it to the first sauce. Cut twelve
+croutons of bread just large enough to hold a snipe each, and fry them
+in butter. Add some chopped herbs and truffles to the forcemeat, spread
+it on the croutons, and on each place a snipe and cover it with a bit
+of fat bacon and buttered paper. Put them in a moderate oven for a few
+minutes, arrange them on a dish, and pour some of their own sauce over
+them. Garnish the spaces between the croutons with white cocks' combs,
+mushrooms, and truffles. The truffles should be scooped out and filled
+with a little stuffing of sweetbread, tongue, and truffles mixed with
+a little of the sauce of the snipe. Serve the rest of the sauce in a
+sauce-boat.
+
+
+
+
+No. 147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons)
+
+Ingredients: Pigeons, butter, truffles, herbs, fowls' livers,
+sweetbread, salt, flour, stock, Burgundy.
+
+Prepare two pigeons and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of
+butter, two truffles cut up, two fowls' livers, half-pound of sweetbread
+cuttings (boiled), a bunch of herbs and salt. Let them brown a little,
+then add a dessert-spoonful of flour mixed with stock, and half a glass
+of Burgundy, and stew gently for half an hour.
+
+
+
+
+No. 148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons)
+
+Ingredients: Pigeons, sweetbread, parsley, onions, carrots, salt,
+pepper, bacon, stock, Chablis, fowls' livers, and gizzards.
+
+Cut up a sweetbread, a fowl's liver and gizzard, an onion, a sprig of
+parsley, and add salt and pepper. Put this stuffing into two pigeons,
+tie larding bacon over them, and put them into a stewpan with a glass
+of Chablis, a cup of stock, an onion, and a carrot. When cooked pass
+the sauce through a sieve, skim it, add a little more sauce, and pour it
+over the pigeons.
+
+
+
+
+No. 149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare)
+
+Ingredients: Hare, butter, onions, garlic, marjoram, celery, ham, salt,
+Chablis, stock, mushrooms, spice, tomatoes.
+
+Put into a stewpan three ounces of butter, an onion cut up, a clove of
+garlic with a cut across it, a sprig of marjoram, and a little cut-up
+ham. Fry these slightly, put the hare cut up into the same stewpan, and
+let it get brown. Then pour a glass of Chablis and a glass of stock over
+it; add a little tomato sauce or a mashed-up tomato, a pinch of spice,
+and a few mushrooms; take out the garlic and let the rest stew gently
+for an hour or more. Keep the cover on the stewpan, but stir the stew
+occasionally.
+
+
+
+
+No. 150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare)
+
+Ingredients: Hare, vinegar butter, onion, ham, stock salt, sugar,
+chocolate, almonds, raisins.
+
+Cut up a hare and wash the pieces in vinegar, then cook them in butter,
+chopped onion, some bits of ham stock and a little salt. Half fill a
+wine-glass with sugar and add vinegar until the glass is three-quarters
+full mix the vinegar and sugar well together, and when the hare is
+browned all over and nearly cooked, pour the vinegar over it and add a
+dessert spoonful of grated chocolate a few shredded almonds and stoned
+raisins. Mix all well together and cook for a few minutes more. This is
+a favourite Roman dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit)
+
+Ingredients: Rabbit, flour butter, stock, Chablis, parsley onion, spice,
+mushrooms.
+
+Cut up a rabbit, wipe the pieces, flour them over, and fry them in
+butter until they are coloured all over. Then pour a glass of Chablis
+over them, add some chopped parsley, half an onion, three mushrooms,
+salt, and a cup of good stock. Cover the stewpan and cook on a moderate
+fire for about three-quarters of an hour. Should the stew act too dry,
+add a spoonful of stock occasionally.
+
+
+
+
+
+No. 152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit)
+
+Ingredients: Rabbit, pig's fry, butter, salt, pepper, fennel, bay leaf,
+onions.
+
+Make a stuffing of pig's fry (previously cooked in butter), salt,
+pepper, fennel, an onion, all chopped up, and a bay leaf. With this
+stuff a rabbit well and braize it for half an hour, then roast it before
+a brisk fire and baste it well with good gravy. If you like, put in a
+clove of garlic with one cut whilst it is being braized, but only leave
+it in for five minutes. Serve with ham sauce (Salsa di prosciutto, No.
+7.) A fowl may be cooked in this way.
+
+
+
+
+No. 153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit)
+
+Ingredients: Rabbit, butter, flour, celery, parsley, onion, carrot,
+mushrooms, cloves, spices, Burgundy, stock, capers, anchovies.
+
+Cut up a rabbit, wipe the pieces well on a dishcloth, flour them over
+and put them into a frying-pan with two ounces of butter and fry for
+about ten minutes. Then add half a stick of celery, parsley, an onion,
+half a carrot, and three mushrooms, all cut up, three cloves, a pinch
+of spice and salt, a glass of Burgundy, and the same quantity of stock;
+cover the stewpan and cook for half an hour, then put the pieces of
+rabbit into another stewpan and pass the liquor through a sieve; press
+it well with a wooden spoon, so as to get as much through as possible,
+pour this over the rabbit and add four capers and an anchovy in brine
+pounded in a mortar, mix all well together, let it simmer for a few
+minutes, then serve hot with a garnish of croutons fried in butter.
+
+
+
+
+Vegetables
+
+
+
+
+No. 154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus)
+
+Ingredients: Asparagus, butter, nutmeg, salt, supreme sauce (No. 16)
+gravy, lemon, Parmesan.
+
+Cut some asparagus into pieces about an inch long and cook them in
+boiling water with salt, then drain and put them into a saute pan with
+one and a half ounce of melted butter and sautez for a few minutes, but
+first add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, and a dust of grated cheese. Pour a
+little supreme sauce over them, and at the last add a little gravy, one
+ounce of fresh butter, and a squeeze of lemon juice.
+
+
+
+
+No. 155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts)
+
+Ingredients: Brussels sprouts, butter, pepper, stock, Bechamel sauce,
+Parmesan, croutons.
+
+Take off the outside leaves of half a pound of Brussels sprouts, wash
+and boil them in salted water. Let them get cool, drain, and put them in
+a pie-dish with two ounces of fresh butter, a quarter pint of very good
+stock, a little pepper, and a dust of grated Parmesan. When they are
+well glazed over, pour off the sauce, season with three tablespoonsful
+of boiling Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and serve with croutons fried in
+butter.
+
+
+
+
+No. 156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot)
+
+Ingredients: Beetroot, white sauce, Parmesan, Cheddar.
+
+Boil a beetroot till it is quite tender, peel it, cut into slices, put
+it in a fireproof dish, and cover it with a thick white sauce. Strew a
+little grated Parmesan and Cheddar over it. Put it in the oven for a few
+minutes, and serve very hot in the dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans)
+
+Ingredients: Beans, stock, a bunch of herbs, Bechamel sauce.
+
+Boil one pound of broad beans in salt and water, skin and cook them in
+a saucepan with a quarter pint of reduced stock and a hunch of herbs.
+Drain them, take out the herbs, and season with two glasses of Bechamel
+sauce (No. 3).
+
+
+
+
+No. 158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage)
+
+Ingredients: Cabbage or greens, anchovies, salt, butter, parsley, gravy,
+Parmesan.
+
+Boil two cabbages in a good deal of water, and cut them into quarters.
+Fry two anchovies slightly in butter and chopped parsley, add the
+cabbages, and at the last three tablespoonsful of good gravy, two
+tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, salt and pepper, and when cooked,
+serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 159. Cavoli fiodi alla Lionese (Cauliflower)
+
+Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, onions, parsley, lemon, Espagnole
+sauce.
+
+Blanch a cauliflower and boil it, but not too much. Cut up a small
+onion, fry it slightly in butter and chopped parsley, and when it is
+well coloured, add the cauliflower and finish cooking it, then take it
+out, put it in a dish, pour a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) over it, and
+add a squeeze of lemon juice.
+
+
+
+
+No. 160. Cavoli fiodi fritti (Cauliflower)
+
+Ingredients: Cauliflower or broccoli, gravy, lemon, salt, eggs, butter.
+
+Break up a broccoli or cauliflower into little bunches, blanch them, and
+put them on the fire in a saucepan with good gravy for a few minutes,
+then marinate them with lemon juice and salt, let them get cold, egg
+them over, and fry in butter.
+
+
+
+
+No. 161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana
+
+Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, Parmesan, Cheddar, Espagnole, stock.
+
+Boil a cauliflower in salted water, then sautez it in butter, but be
+careful not to cook it too much. Take it off the fire and strew grated
+Parmesan and Cheddar over it then put in a fireproof dish and add a good
+spoonful of stock and one of Espagnole (No. 1), and put it in the oven
+for ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni
+
+Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, stock, forcemeat of fowl, tongue,
+truffles, mushrooms, parsley, Espagnole, eggs.
+
+Break up a cauliflower into separate little bunches, blanch them,
+and put them in butter, and a quarter pint of reduced stock. Make a
+forcemeat of fowl, add bits of tongue, truffles, mushrooms, and parsley,
+all cut up small and mixed with butter. With this mask the pieces of
+cauliflower, egg and breadcrumb them, fry like croquettes, and serve
+with a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1).
+
+
+
+
+No. 163. Sedani alla Parmigiana (Celery)
+
+Ingredients: Celery, stock, ham, salt, pepper, Cheddar, Parmesan,
+butter, gravy.
+
+Cut all the green off a head of celery, trim the rest. Cut it into
+pieces about four inches long, blanch and braize them in good stock,
+ham, salt, and pepper. When cooked, drain and arrange them on a dish,
+sprinkle with grated Parmesan and Cheddar, and add one and a half ounce
+of butter, then put them in the oven till they have taken a good colour,
+pour a little good gravy over them and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 164. Sedani fritti all'Italiana (Celery)
+
+Ingredients: Same as No. 163, eggs, bread crumbs, tomatoes.
+
+Prepare a head of celery as above, and cut it up into equal pieces.
+Blanch and braize as above, and when cold egg and breadcrumb and sautez
+in butter. Serve with tomato sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber)
+
+Ingredients: Cucumber, butter, cheese, gravy, salt, cayenne.
+
+Cut a cucumber into slices about half an inch thick, boil for five
+minutes in salted water, drain in a sieve, and fry slightly in melted
+butter, then strew a little grated Parmesan over it, and add a good
+thick gravy, put it into the oven for ten minutes to brown, and serve as
+hot as possible.
+
+
+
+
+No. 166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber)
+
+Ingredients: Cucumber, cream, salt, Bechamel sauce, butter, Parmesan,
+cayenne pepper.
+
+Cook a cucumber as in No. 165, braize it for five minutes, add to it a
+good rich Bechamel (No. 3), mixed with cream and grated Parmesan Spread
+this well over the cucumber, and put it into the oven for ten minutes
+keeping the rounds of cucumber separate, so as to arrange them in a
+circle on a very hot dish. Care should be taken not to cook the cucumber
+too long, or it will break in pieces and spoil the look of the dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots)
+
+Ingredients: Carrots, stock, butter, sausage, pepper.
+
+Boil some young carrots in stock, slice them up, and put them in a
+stewpan with a sausage cut up; cook for quarter of an hour on a slow
+fire, then stir up the fire, and when the carrots and sausage are a good
+colour add a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1), and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and Peas)
+
+Ingredients: Young carrots, peas, cream, salt.
+
+Half cook equal quantities of peas and young carrots (the carrots should
+be cut in dice, and will require a little longer cooking), then put them
+together in a stewpan with three or four tablespoonsful of cream, and
+cook till quite tender. Serve hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 169. Verze alla Certosine (Cabbage)
+
+Ingredients: Cabbage, butter, salt, leeks or shallots, sardines, cheese.
+
+Any vegetable may be cooked in the following simple manner: Boil them
+well, then slightly fry a little bit of leek or shallot and a sardine in
+butter; drain the vegetables, put them in the butter, and cook gently
+so that they may absorb all the flavour, and at the last add a dust of
+grated cheese and a tiny pinch of spice.
+
+
+
+
+No. 170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce)
+
+Ingredients: Lettuce, Parmesan, bacon, stock, butter, croutons of bread,
+gravy.
+
+Take off the outside leaves of a lettuce, blanch and drain them well.
+Put on each leaf a mixture of grated Parmesan, salt, little bits of
+chopped bacon or ham, add a little good stock, cover over with buttered
+paper, and cook in a hot oven for five minutes. Then drain off the stock
+and roll up each leaf with the bacon, &c., put them on croutons of fried
+bread and pour some good thick gravy over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 171 Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce)
+
+Ingredients: Lettuce, forcemeat of fowl or veal, ham, Espagnole sauce.
+
+Prepare a lettuce as above, and spread on each leaf a spoonful of
+forcemeat of fowl or veal, add a little cooked ham chopped up, roll
+up the leaves, and cook as above. Drain them on a cloth, arrange them
+neatly on a dish, and pour some good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms)
+
+Ingredients: Mushrooms, bread, stock, garlic, parsley, salt, Parmesan,
+butter, eggs, cream.
+
+Choose a dozen good fresh mushrooms, take off the stalks and put the
+tops into a saucepan with a little butter. See that they lie bottom
+upwards. Then cut up and mix together half the stalks of the mushrooms,
+a little bread crumb soaked in gravy, the merest scrap of garlic and a
+little chopped parsley. Put this into a separate saucepan and add to it
+two eggs, half a gill of cream, salt, and two tablespoonsful of grated
+Parmesan. Mix well so as to get a smooth paste and fill in the cavities
+of the mushrooms with it. Then add a little more butter, strew some
+bread crumbs over each mushroom, and cook in the oven for ten to fifteen
+minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables)
+
+Ingredients: Cauliflower, carrots, celery, spinach, butter, cream,
+pepper, Parmesan.
+
+Boil some carrots, cauliflower, spinach, and celery (all cut up) in
+water. Then put them in layers in a buttered china mould, and between
+each layer add a little cream, pepper, and a little grated Parmesan and
+Cheddar. Fill the mould in this manner, and put it in the oven for half
+an hour, so that the vegetables may cook without adhering to the mould.
+Turn out and serve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream)
+
+Ingredients: Potatoes, butter, Parmesan, white stock, cream, pepper,
+salt.
+
+Boil two pounds of potatoes in salted water for a quarter of an hour,
+peel and cut them into slices about the size of a penny, then arrange
+them in layers in a very deep fireproof dish (with a lid), and on each
+layer pour a little melted butter, a little good white stock and a
+dust of grated Parmesan. Reduce a pint and a half of cream to half its
+quantity, add a little pepper, and pour it over the potatoes. Put the
+dish in the oven for twenty minutes. Serve as hot as possible.
+
+
+
+
+No. 175. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes)
+
+Ingredients: Potatoes, white stock, salt, butter, peas, asparagus,
+sprouts, beans, &c.
+
+Choose some big sound potatoes, cut them in half and scoop out a little
+of the centre so as to form a cavity, blanch them in salted water and
+cook for a quarter of an hour in good white stock and a little butter.
+Then fill in the cavities with a macedoine of cooked vegetables and add
+a little cream to each.
+
+
+
+
+No. 176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce)
+
+Ingredients: Potatoes, butter, salt, tomatoes, lemon, stock.
+
+Peel three or four raw potatoes, cut them in slices about the size of
+a five-shilling piece, then put them into a stewpan with two ounces of
+melted butter, and cook them gently until they are a good colour, add
+salt, drain off the butter, then glaze them by adding half a glass of
+good stock. Arrange them on a dish, pour some good tomato sauce over
+them, and add a little butter and a squeeze of lemon juice.
+
+
+
+
+No. 177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach)
+
+Ingredients: Spinach, butter, Velute sauce, salt, pepper, flour, stock.
+
+Wash three pounds of spinach at least six times, boil it in a pint of
+water, then mince it up very fine, pass it through a hair-sieve, and put
+it in a saucepan with one and a half ounces of butter, add a cupful
+of reduced Velute sauce (No. 2) with cream, salt, and pepper, add a
+dessert-spoonful of flour and butter mixed, and boil until the spinach
+is firm enough to make into a shape, garnish with hardboiled eggs cut
+into quarters, and pour a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) round the dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad)
+
+Ingredients: New potatoes, oil, white vinegar, onions, parsley,
+tarragon, chervil, celery, cream, salt, pepper, tarragon vinegar,
+watercress, cucumber, truffles.
+
+Steam as many new potatoes as you require until they are well cooked,
+let them get cold, cut them into slices and pour three teaspoonsful of
+salad oil and one of white vinegar over them. Then rub a salad bowl with
+onion, put in a layer of the potato slices, and sprinkle with chopped
+parsley, tarragon, chervil, and celery, then another layer of potatoes
+until you have used all the potatoes; cover them with whipped cream
+seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little tarragon vinegar, and garnish
+the top with watercress, a few thin slices of truffle cooked in white
+wine, and some slices of cooked cucumber.
+
+
+
+
+No. 179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad)
+
+Ingredients: Peas, bean onions, potatoes, tarragon, chives, parsley,
+tomatoes, anchovies, oil, vinegar, ham.
+
+Mix a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped onion,
+a teaspoonful of tarragon and chopped chives with half a gill of oil
+and half a gill of vinegar. Put this into a salad bowl with all sorts of
+cooked vegetables: peas, haricot beans, small onions, and potatoes cut
+up, and mix them w ell but gently, so as not to break the vegetables.
+Then add two or three anchovies in oil, and on the top place three or
+four ripe tomatoes cut in slices. A little cooked smoked ham cut in dice
+added to this salad is a great improvement.
+
+
+
+
+No. 180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad)
+
+Ingredients: Tomatoes, mayonnaise, shallot, horseradish, gherkin,
+anchovies, fish, cucumber, lettuce, chervil, tarragon, eggs.
+
+Mix the following ingredients: two anchovies in oil boned and minced,
+a gill of mayonnaise sauce, a little grated horseradish, very little
+chopped shallot, a little cold salmon or trout, and a small gherkin
+chopped. With this mixture stuff some ripe tomatoes. Then make a good
+salad of endive or lettuce, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and
+chervil, season it with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper (the proportions
+should be three of oil to one of vinegar), put a layer of slices of
+cucumber in the salad, place the tomatoes on the top of these, and
+decorate them with hard-boiled eggs passed through a wire sieve.
+
+
+
+
+No. 181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles)
+
+Ingredients: Truffles, fowl forcemeat, champagne.
+
+Allow one truffle for each person, scoop out the inside, chop it up fine
+and mix with a good forcemeat of fowl. With this fill up the truffles,
+place a thin layer of truffle on the top of each, and cook them in
+champagne in a stewpan for about half an hour. Then take them out, make
+a rich sauce, to which add the champagne you have used and some of the
+chopped truffle, put the truffles in this sauce and keep hot for ten
+minutes. Serve in paper souffle cases.
+
+
+
+
+Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and Other Italian Pastes{*}
+
+     * Italian pastes of the best quality can be obtained at
+     Cosenza's, Wigmore Street, NW.  For the following dishes,
+     tagliarelle and spaghetti are recommended.
+
+
+
+
+No. 182. Macaroni with Tomatoes
+
+Ingredients: Macaroni, tomatoes, butter, onion, basil, pepper, salt.
+
+Fry half an onion slightly in butter, and as soon as it is coloured
+add a puree of two big cooked tomatoes. Then boil quarter of a pound of
+macaroni separately, drain it and put it in a deep fireproof dish, add
+the tomato puree and three tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and Cheddar
+mixed, and cook gently for a quarter of an hour before serving. This
+dish may be made with vermicelli, spaghetti, or any other Italian paste.
+
+
+
+
+No. 183. Macaroni alla Casalinga
+
+Ingredients: Macaroni, butter, stock, cheese, water, salt, nutmeg.
+
+Cut up a quarter pound of macaroni in small pieces and put it in boiling
+salted water. When sufficiently cooked, drain and put it into a saucepan
+with two ounces of butter, add good gravy or stock, three tablespoonsful
+of grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. Stir
+over a brisk fire, and serve very hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 184. Macaroni al Sughillo
+
+Ingredients: Macaroni, stock, tomatoes, sausage, cheese.
+
+Half cook four ounces of macaroni, drain it and put it in layers in a
+fireproof dish, and gradually add good beef gravy, four tablespoonsful
+of tomato puree, and thin slices of sausage. Sprinkle with grated
+Parmesan and Cheddar, and cook for about twenty minutes. Before serving
+pass the salamander over the top to brown the macaroni.
+
+
+
+
+No. 185. Macaroni alla Livornese
+
+Ingredients: Macaroni, mushrooms, tomatoes, Parmesan, butter, pepper,
+salt, milk.
+
+Boil about four ounces of macaroni, and stew four or five mushrooms in
+milk with pepper and salt. Put a layer of the macaroni in a buttered
+fireproof dish, then a layer of tomato puree, then a layer of the
+mushrooms and another layer of macaroni. Dust it all over with grated
+Parmesan and Cheddar, put it in the oven for half an hour, and serve
+very hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 186. Tagliarelle and Lobster
+
+Ingredients: Tagliarelle, lobster, cheese, butter.
+
+Boil half a pound of tagliarelle, and cut up a quarter of a pound of
+lobster. Butter a fireproof dish, and strew it well with grated Parmesan
+and Cheddar mixed, then put in the tagliarelle and lobster in layers,
+and between each layer add a little butter. Strew grated cheese over
+the top, put it in the oven for twenty minutes, and brown the top with a
+salamander.
+
+
+
+
+No. 187. Polenta
+
+Polenta is made of ground Indian-corn, and may be used either as a
+separate dish or as a garnish for roast meat, pigeons, fowl, &c. It is
+made like porridge; gradually drop the meal with one hand into boiling
+stock or water, and stir continually with a wooden spoon with the other
+hand. In about a quarter of an hour it will be quite thick and smooth,
+then add a little butter and grated Parmesan, and one egg beaten up. Let
+it get cold, then put it in layers in a baking-dish, add a little butter
+to each layer, sprinkle with plenty of Parmesan, and bake it for about
+an hour in a slow oven. Serve hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 188. Polenta Pasticciata
+
+Ingredients: Polenta, butter, cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes.
+
+Prepare a good polenta as above, put it in layers in a fireproof dish,
+and add by degrees one and a half ounces of melted butter, two cooked
+mushrooms cut up, and two tablespoonsful of grated cheese. (If you like,
+you may add a good-sized tomato mashed up.) Put the dish in the oven,
+and before serving brown it over with salamander.
+
+
+
+
+No. 189. Battuffoli
+
+Ingredients: Polenta, onion, butter, salt, stock, Parmesan.
+
+Make a somewhat firm polenta (No. 187) with half a pound of ground maize
+and a pint and a half of salted water, add a small onion cut up and
+fried in butter, and stir the polenta until it is sufficiently cooked.
+Then take it off the fire and arrange it by spoonsful in a large
+fireproof dish, and give each spoonful the shape and size of an egg.
+Place them one against the other, and when the first layer is done, pour
+over it some very good gravy or stock, and plenty of grated Parmesan.
+Arrange it thus layer by layer. Put it into the oven for twenty minutes,
+and serve very hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 190. Risotto all'Italiana
+
+Ingredients: Rice, an onion, butter, stock, tomatoes, cheese.
+
+Fry a small onion slightly in butter, then add half a pint of very good
+stock. Boil four ounces of rice, but do not let it get pulpy, add it
+to the above with three medium-sized tomatoes in a puree. Mix it all
+up well, add more stock, and two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and
+Cheddar mixed, and serve hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 191. Risotto alla Genovese
+
+Ingredients: Rice, beef or veal, onions, parsley, butter, stock,
+Parmesan, sweetbread or sheep's brains.
+
+Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in butter with some chopped
+parsley, add to this a little veal, also chopped up, and a little suet.
+Cook for ten minutes and then add two ounces of rice to it. Mix all
+with a wooden spoon, and after a few minutes begin to add boiling stock
+gradually; stir with the spoon, so that the rice whilst cooking may
+absorb the stock; when it is half cooked add a few spoonsful of good
+gravy and a sweetbread or sheep's brains (previously scalded and cut up
+in pieces), and, if you like, a little powdered saffron dissolved in
+a spoonful of stock and three tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and
+Cheddar mixed. Stir well until the rice is quite cooked, but take care
+not to get it into a pulp.
+
+
+
+
+No. 192. Risotto alla Spagnuola
+
+Ingredients: Rice, pork, ham, onions, tomatoes, butter, stock,
+vegetables, Parmesan.
+
+Put a small bit of onion and an ounce of butter into a saucepan, add
+half a pound of tomatoes cut up and fry for a few minutes. Then put in
+some bits of loin of pork cut into dice and some bits of lean ham. After
+a time add four ounces of rice and good stock, and as soon as it begins
+to boil put on the cover and put the saucepan on a moderate fire. When
+the rice is half cooked add any sort of vegetable, by preference peas,
+asparagus cut up, beans, and cucumber cut up, cook for another quarter
+of an hour, and serve with grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed and good
+gravy.
+
+
+
+
+No. 193. Risotto alla Capuccina
+
+Ingredients: Risotto (No. 190) eggs, truffles, smoked tongue, butter.
+
+Make a good risotto, and when cooked put it into a fireproof dish. When
+cold cut into shapes with a dariole mould and fry for a few minutes in
+butter, then turn the darioles out, scoop out a little of each and fill
+it with eggs beaten up, cover each with a slice of truffle and garnish
+with a little chopped tongue. Put them in the oven for ten minutes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 194. Risotto alla Parigina
+
+Ingredients: Risotto (No. 190), game, sauce, butter.
+
+Make a good risotto, and when cooked pour it into a fireproof dish, let
+it get cold, and then cut it out with a dariole mould, or else form it
+into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg. Fry these in butter
+and serve with a rich game sauce poured over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 195. Ravioli
+
+Ingredients: Flour, eggs, butter, salt, forcemeat, Parmesan, gravy or
+stock.
+
+Make a paste with a quarter pound of flour, the yolk of two eggs, a
+little salt and two ounces of butter. Knead this into a firm smooth
+paste and wrap it up in a damp cloth for half an hour, then roll it out
+as thin as possible, moisten it with a paste-brush dipped in water,
+and cut it into circular pieces about three inches in diameter. On each
+piece put about a teaspoonful of forcemeat of fowl, game, or fish mixed
+with a little grated Parmesan and the yolks of one or two eggs. Fold
+the paste over the forcemeat and pinch the edges together, so as to give
+them the shape of little puffs; let them dry in the larder, then blanch
+by boiling them in stock for quarter of an hour and drain them in a
+napkin. Butter a fireproof dish, put in a layer of the ravioli, powder
+them over with grated Parmesan, then another layer of ravioli and more
+Parmesan. Then add enough very good gravy to cover them, put the dish in
+the oven for about twenty-five minutes, and serve in the dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina
+
+Ingredients: Beetroot, eggs, Parmesan, milk or cream, nutmeg, spices,
+salt, flour, gravy.
+
+Wash a beetroot and boil it, and when it is sufficiently cooked throw it
+into cold water for a few minutes, then drain it, chop it up and add to
+it four eggs, one ounce of grated Parmesan, one ounce of grated Cheddar,
+two and a half ounces of boiled cream or milk, a small pinch of nutmeg
+and a little salt. Mix all well together into a smooth firm paste, then
+roll into balls about the size of a walnut, flour them over well, let
+them dry for half an hour, then drop them very carefully one by one
+into boiling stock and when they float on the top take them out with a
+perforated ladle, put them in a deep dish, dust them over with Parmesan
+and pour good meat or game gravy over them.
+
+
+
+
+No. 197. Gnocchi alla Romana
+
+Ingredients: Semolina, butter, Parmesan, eggs, nutmeg, milk, cream.
+
+Boil half a pint of milk in a saucepan, then add two ounces of butter,
+four ounces of semolina, two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, the
+yolks of three eggs, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. Mix all well together,
+then let it cool, and spread out the paste so that it is about the
+thickness of a finger. Put a little butter and grated Parmesan and two
+tablespoonsful of cream in a fireproof dish, cut out the semolina paste
+with a small dariole mould and put it in the dish. Dust a little more
+Parmesan over it, put it in the oven for five minutes and serve in the
+dish.
+
+
+
+
+No. 198. Gnocchi alla Lombarda
+
+Ingredients: Potatoes, flour, salt, Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, butter,
+milk, eggs.
+
+Boil two or three big potatoes, and pass them through a hair sieve, mix
+in two tablespoonsful of flour, an egg beaten up, and enough milk to
+form a rather firm paste; stir until it is quite smooth. Roll it into
+the shape of a German sausage, cut it into rounds about three quarters
+of an inch thick, and put it into the larder to dry for about half an
+hour. Then drop the gnocchi one by one into boiling salted water and
+boil for ten minutes. Take them out with a slice, and put them in a
+well-buttered fireproof dish, add butter between each layer, and strew
+plenty of grated Parmesan and Cheddar over them. Put them in the oven
+for ten minutes, brown the top with a salamander, and serve very hot.
+
+
+
+
+No. 199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake)
+
+Ingredients: Rice, milk, salt, butter, cinnamon, eggs, Parmesan.
+
+Boil quarter of a pound of rice in milk until it is quite soft and
+pulpy, drain off the milk and add to the rice an ounce of butter, two
+tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, and a pinch of cinnamon, and when
+it has got rather cold, the yolks of four eggs beaten up. Mix all well
+together, and with this make a pancake with butter in a frying pan.
+
+
+
+
+Omelettes And Other Egg Dishes
+
+
+
+
+No. 200. Uova al Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, butter, cream, truffles, Velute sauce, croutons.
+
+Beat up six eggs, pass them through a sieve, and put them into a
+saucepan with two ounces of butter and two tablespoonsful of cream. Put
+the saucepan in a bain-marie, and stir so that the eggs may not adhere.
+Sautez some slices of truffle in butter, cover them with Velute sauce
+(No. 2) and a glass of Marsala, and add them to the eggs. Serve very
+hot with fried and glazed croutons. Instead of truffles you can use
+asparagus tips, peas, or cooked ham.
+
+
+
+
+No. 201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, salt, tomatoes, onion, parsley, butter, pepper.
+
+Cut up three or four tomatoes, and put them into a stewpan with a piece
+of butter the size of a walnut and a clove of garlic with a cut in it.
+Put the lid on the stewpan and cook till quite soft, then take out the
+garlic, strain the tomatoes through a fine strainer into a bain-marie,
+beat up two eggs and add them to the tomatoes, and stir till quite
+thick, then put in two tablespoonsful of grated cheese, and serve on
+toast.
+
+
+
+
+No. 202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cheese, parsley,
+mushrooms, Bechamel and Espagnole sauce, stock.
+
+Boil as many eggs as you want hard, and cut them in half lengthwise;
+take out the yolks and mix them with some fresh butter, salt, pepper,
+very little nutmeg, grated cheese, a little chopped parsley, and cooked
+mushrooms also chopped. Then mix two tablespoonsful of good Bechamel
+sauce (No. 3) with the raw yolk of one or two eggs and add it to the
+rest. Put all in a saucepan with an ounce of butter and good stock, then
+fill up the white halves with the mixture, giving them a good shape;
+heat them in a bain-marie, and serve with a very good clear Espagnole
+sauce (No. 1).
+
+
+
+
+No. 203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, butter, Parmesan, cream, flour, salt, pepper, curds.
+
+Boil as many eggs as you require hard, then cut them in half and take
+out the yolks and pound them in a mortar with equal quantities of butter
+and curds, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, salt and pepper. Put this
+in a saucepan and add the yolks of eight eggs and the white of one (this
+is for twelve people), mix all well together and reduce a little. With
+this mixture fill the hard whites of the eggs and spread the rest of the
+sauce on the bottom of the dish, and on this place the whites. Then
+in another saucepan mix half a gill of cream and an ounce of butter, a
+dessert-spoonful of flour, salt, and pepper; let this boil for a minute,
+and then glaze over the eggs in the dish with it, and on the top of
+each egg put a little bit of butter, and over all a powdering of grated
+cheese. Put this in the oven, pass the salamander over the top, and when
+the cheese is coloured serve at once.
+
+
+
+
+No. 204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, butter, mushrooms, onions, flour, white wine, fish or
+meat stock, salt, pepper, croutons of bread.
+
+Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, three large fresh mushrooms
+cut into slices, and an onion cut up, fry them slightly, and when the
+onion begins to colour add a spoonful of flour, a quarter of a glass of
+Chablis, salt and pepper, and occasionally add a spoonful of either fish
+or meat stock. Let this simmer for half an hour, so as to reduce it to
+a thick sauce. Then boil as many eggs as you want hard; take out the
+yolks, but keep them whole. Cut up the whites into slices, and add them
+to the above sauce, pour the sauce into a dish, and on the top of it
+place the whole yolks of egg, each on a crouton of bread.
+
+
+
+
+No. 205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette)
+
+Ingredients: Mushrooms, butter, eggs, bread crumbs, Parmesan, marjoram,
+garlic.
+
+Clean four or five mushrooms, cut them up, and put them into a
+frying-pan with one and a half ounces of butter, a clove of garlic with
+two cuts in it, and a little salt; fry them lightly till the mushrooms
+are nearly cooked, and then take out the garlic. In the meantime beat up
+separately the yolks and the whites of two or three eggs, add a little
+crumb of bread soaked in water, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and
+two leaves of marjoram; go on beating all up until the crumb of bread
+has become entirely absorbed by the eggs, then pour this mixture into
+the frying-pan with the mushrooms, mix all well together and make an
+omelette in the usual way.
+
+
+
+
+No. 206. Frittata con Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, tomatoes, butter, marjoram, parsley, spice.
+
+Peel two tomatoes and take out the seeds; then mix them with an ounce of
+butter, chopped marjoram, parsley, and a tiny pinch of spice. Add three
+eggs beaten up (the yolks and whites separately), and make an omelette.
+
+
+
+
+No. 207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, asparagus, butter, ham, herbs, cheese.
+
+Blanch a dozen heads of asparagus and cook them slightly, then cut them
+up and mix with two ounces of butter, bits of cut-up ham, herbs, and a
+tablespoonful of grated Parmesan. Add them to three beaten-up eggs and
+make an omelette.
+
+
+
+
+No. 208. Frittata con erbe (Omelette with Herbs)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, onions, sorrel, mint, parsley, asparagus, marjoram,
+salt, pepper, butter.
+
+Chop a little sorrel, a small bit of onion, mint, parsley, marjoram,
+and fry in two ounces of butter, add some cut-up asparagus, salt, and
+pepper. Then add three eggs beaten up and a little grated cheese, and
+make your omelette.
+
+
+
+
+No. 209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, Parmesan, pepper, parsley.
+
+Beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth and the yolks separately
+with a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, chopped parsley, and a little
+pepper. Then mix them and make a light omelette.
+
+
+
+
+No. 210. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette)
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, ham, Parmesan, mint, pepper, clotted cream.
+
+Beat up three eggs and add to them two tablespoonsful of clotted cream,
+one tablespoonful of chopped ham, one of grated Parmesan, chopped mint
+and a little pepper, and make the omelette in the usual way.
+
+
+
+
+Sweets and Cakes
+
+
+
+
+No. 211. Bodino of Semolina
+
+Ingredients: Semolina, milk, eggs, castor sugar, lemon, sultanas, rum,
+butter, cream, or Zabajone (No. 222).
+
+Boil one and a half pints of milk with four ounces of castor sugar, and
+gradually add five ounces of semolina, boil for a quarter of an hour
+more and stir continually with a wooden spoon, then take the saucepan
+off the fire, and when it is cooled a little, add the yolks of six
+and the whites of two eggs well beaten up, a little grated lemon peel,
+three-quarters of an ounce of sultanas and two small glasses of rum.
+Mix well, so as to get it very smooth, pour it into a buttered mould
+and serve either hot or cold. If cold, put whipped cream flavoured with
+stick vanilla round the dish; if hot, a Zabajone (No. 222).
+
+
+
+
+No. 212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream)
+
+Ingredients: Coffee, cream, eggs, sugar, butter.
+
+Bruise five ounces of freshly roasted Mocha coffee, and add it to
+three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream; cover the saucepan, let it
+simmer for twenty minutes, then pass through a bit of fine muslin. In
+the meantime mix the yolks of ten eggs and two whole eggs with eight
+ounces of castor sugar and a glass of cream; add the coffee cream to
+this and pass the whole through a fine sieve into a buttered mould.
+Steam in a bain-marie for rather more than an hour, but do not let the
+water boil; then put the cream on ice for about an hour, and before
+serving turn it out on a dish and pour some cream flavoured with stick
+vanilla round it.
+
+
+
+
+No. 213. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream)
+
+Ingredients: Cream, castor sugar, Maraschino, strawberries or strawberry
+jam.
+
+Put a pint of cream on ice, and after two hours whip it up. Pass
+three tablespoonsful of strawberry jam through a sieve and add two
+tablespoonsful of Maraschino; mix this with the cream and build it up
+into a pyramid. Garnish with meringue biscuits and serve quickly. You
+may use fresh strawberries when in season, but then add castor sugar to
+taste.
+
+
+
+
+No. 214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat)
+
+Ingredients: Almonds, sugar, lemon juice, butter, castor sugar,
+pistachios, preserved fruits.
+
+Blanch half a pound of almonds, cut them into shreds and dry them in a
+slow oven until they are a light brown colour; then put a quarter pound
+of lump sugar into a saucepan and caramel it lightly; stir well with a
+wooden spoon. When the sugar is dissolved, throw the hot almonds into
+it and also a little lemon juice. Take the saucepan off the fire and mix
+the almonds with the sugar, pour it into a buttered mould and press
+it against the sides of the mould with a lemon, but remember that the
+casing of sugar must be very thin. (You may, if you like, spread out the
+mixture on a flat dish and line the mould with your hands, but the sugar
+must be kept hot.) Then take it out of the mould and decorate it with
+castor sugar, pistacchio nuts, and preserved fruits. Fill this case with
+whipped cream and preserved fruits or fresh strawberries.
+
+
+
+
+No. 215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream)
+
+Ingredients: Cream, eggs, caramel sugar, vanilla or lemon flavouring.
+
+Boil a pint of cream and give it any flavour you like. When cold, add
+the yolks of eight eggs and two tablespoonsful of castor sugar, mix well
+and pass it through a sieve; then burn some sugar to a caramel, line a
+smooth mould with it and pour the cream into it. Boil in a bain-marie
+for an hour and serve hot or cold.
+
+
+
+
+No. 216. Cremona Cake
+
+Ingredients: Ground rice, ground maize, sugar, one orange, eggs, salt,
+cream, Maraschino, almonds, preserved cherries.
+
+Weigh three eggs, and take equal quantities of castor sugar, butter,
+ground rice and maize (the last two together); make a light paste with
+them, but only use one whole egg and the yolks of the two others, add
+the scraped peel of an orange and a pinch of salt. Roll this paste out
+to the thickness of a five-shilling piece, colour it with the yolk of an
+egg and bake it in a cake tin in a hot oven until it is a good colour,
+then take it out and cut it into four equal circular pieces. Have ready
+some well-whipped cream and flavour it with Maraschino, put a thick
+layer of this on one of the rounds of pastry, then cover it with: the
+next round, on which also put a layer of cream, and so on until you
+come to the last round, which forms the top of the cake. Then split
+some almonds and colour them in the oven, cover the top of the cake with
+icing sugar flavoured with orange, and decorate the top with the almonds
+and preserved cherries.
+
+
+
+
+No. 217. Cake alla Tolentina
+
+Ingredients: Sponge-cake, jam, brandy or Maraschino, cream, pine-apple.
+
+Make a medium-sized sponge-cake; when cold cut off the top and scoop out
+all the middle and leave only the brown case; cover the outside with a
+good coating of jam or red currant jelly, and decorate it with some of
+the white of the cake cut into fancy shapes. Soak the rest of the crumb
+in brandy or Maraschino and mix it with quarter of a pint of whipped
+cream and bits of pineapple cut into small dice; fill the cake with
+this; pile it up high in the centre and decorate the top with the brown
+top cut into fancy shapes.
+
+
+
+
+No. 218. Riso all'Imperatrice
+
+Ingredients: Rice, sugar, milk, ice, preserved fruits, blanc-mange,
+Maraschino, cream.
+
+Boil two dessert-spoonsful of rice and one of sugar in milk. When
+sufficiently boiled, drain the rice and let it get cold. In the meantime
+place a mould on ice, and decorate it with slices of preserved fruit,
+and fix them to the mould with just enough nearly cold dissolved
+isinglass to keep them in place. Also put half a pint of blanc-mange on
+the ice, and stir it till it is the right consistency, gradually add the
+boiled rice, half a glass of Maraschino, some bits of pineapple cut in
+dice, and last of all half a pint of whipped cream. Fill the mould with
+this, and when it is sufficiently cold, turn it out and serve with a
+garnish of glace fruits or a few brandy cherries.
+
+
+
+
+No. 219. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes)
+
+Ingredients: Almonds (sweet and bitter), eggs, castor sugar.
+
+Blanch equal quantities of sweet and bitter almonds, and dry them a
+little in the oven, then pound them in a mortar, and add nearly double
+their quantity of castor sugar. Mix with the white of an egg well beaten
+up into a snow, and shape into little balls about the size of a pigeon's
+egg. Put them on a piece of stout white paper, and bake them in a very
+slow oven. They should be very light and delicate in flavour.
+
+
+
+
+No. 220. Cakes alla Livornese
+
+Ingredients: Almonds, eggs, sugar, salt, potato flour, butter.
+
+Pound two ounces of almonds, and mix them with the yolks of two eggs
+and a spoonful of castor sugar flavoured with orange juice. Then mix
+two ounces of sugar with an egg, and to this add the almonds, a pinch of
+salt, and gradually strew in one and a half ounces of potato flour. When
+it is all well mixed, add one ounce of melted butter, shape the cakes
+and bake them in a slow oven.
+
+
+
+
+No. 221. Genoese Pastry
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, sugar, butter, flour, almonds, orange or lemon,
+brandy.
+
+Weigh four eggs, and take equal weights of castor sugar, butter, and
+flour. Pound three ounces of almonds, and mix them with an egg, melt
+the butter, and mix all the ingredients with a wooden spoon in a pudding
+basin for ten minutes, then add a little scraped orange or lemon peel,
+and a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Spread out the paste in thin layers
+on a copper baking sheet, cover them with buttered paper, and bake in a
+moderately hot oven.
+
+These cakes must be cut into shapes when they are hot, as otherwise they
+will break.
+
+
+
+
+No. 222. Zabajone
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, sugar, Marsala, Maraschino or other light-coloured
+liqueur, sponge fingers.
+
+Zabajone is a kind of syllabub. It is made with Marsala and Maraschino,
+or Marsala and yellow Chartreuse. Reckon the quantities as follows: for
+each person the yolks of three eggs, one teaspoonful of castor sugar to
+each egg, and a wine-glass of wine and liqueur mixed. Whip up the yolks
+of the eggs with the sugar, then gradually add the wine. Put this in
+a bain-marie, and stir until it has thickened to the consistency of a
+custard. Take care, however, that it does not boil. Serve hot in custard
+glasses, and hand sponge fingers with it.
+
+
+
+
+No. 223. Iced Zabajone
+
+Ingredients: Eggs, castor sugar, Marsala, cinnamon, lemon, stick
+vanilla, rum, Maraschino, butter, ice.
+
+Mix the yolks of ten eggs, two dessert-spoonsful of castor sugar, and
+three wine-glasses of Marsala, add half a stick of vanilla, a small bit
+of whole cinnamon, and the peel of half a lemon cut into slices.
+
+Whip this up lightly over a slow fire until it is nearly boiling and
+slightly frothy; then remove it, take out the cinnamon, vanilla, and
+lemon pool, and whip up the rest for a minute or two away from the fire.
+Add a tablespoonful of Maraschino and one of rum, and, if you like, a
+small quantity of dissolved isinglass. Stir up the whole, pour it into a
+silver souffle dish, and put it on ice. Serve with sponge cakes or iced
+wafers.
+
+
+
+
+No. 224. Pan-forte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake)
+
+Ingredients: Honey, almonds, filberts, candied lemon peel, pepper,
+cinnamon, chocolate, corn flour, large wafers.
+
+Boil half a pound of honey in a copper vessel, and then add to it a few
+blanched almonds and filberts cut in halves or quarters and slightly
+browned, a little candied lemon peel, a dust of pepper and powdered
+cinnamon and a quarter pound of grated chocolate. Mix all well together,
+and gradually add a tablespoonful of corn flour end two of ground
+almonds to thicken it. Then take the vessel off the fire, spread the
+mixture on large wafers, and make each cake about an inch thick.
+Garnish them on the top with almonds cut in half, and dust over a little
+powdered sugar and cinnamon, then put them in a very slow oven for an
+hour.
+
+
+NEW CENTURY SAUCE * * The New Century Sauce may be bought at Messrs.
+Lazenby's, Wigmore Street, W
+
+
+
+
+No. 225. Fish Sauce
+
+Add one dessert-spoonful of the sauce to a quarter pint of melted butter
+sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.)
+
+One dessert-spoonful to a quarter pint of ordinary brown or white stock.
+It may be thickened by a roux made by frying two ounces of butter with
+two ounces of flour.
+
+
+
+
+No. 227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c.
+
+Two dessert-spoonsful of New Century Sauce to half a pint of game gravy
+or sauce, and a small teaspoonful of red currant jelly.
+
+
+
+
+No. 228. Tomato Sauce Piquante
+
+Fry three medium-sized tomatoes in one and a half ounce of butter. Pass
+this through a sieve, then boil it up in a bain-marie till it thickens,
+and add one dessertspoonful of New Century Sauce.
+
+
+
+
+No. 229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c.
+
+Add to any ordinary white or brown sauce one dessert-spoonful of New
+Century Sauce and two of port or Burgundy if the sauce is brown, two of
+Chablis if white.
+
+
+
+
+No. 230. For masking Cutlets, &c.
+
+Making a roux by frying two ounces of butter with two ounces of
+flour, and add two tablespoonsful of boiling stock. Stir in one
+dessert-spoonful of New Century Sauce. Let it get cold, and it will then
+be quite firm and ready for masking cutlets, &c.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cook's Decameron: A Study in Taste:, by 
+Mrs. W. G. Waters
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COOK'S DECAMERON ***
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