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diff --git a/9294-8.txt b/9294-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2be84f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/9294-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,17570 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Exploring Expedition to the Rocky +Mountains, Oregon and California, by Brevet Col. J.C. Fremont + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: The Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains, Oregon and California + To Which Is Added a Description of the Physical Geography + of California, with Recent Notices of the Gold Region from + the Latest and Most Authentic Sources + +Author: Brevet Col. J.C. Fremont + +Posting Date: September 2, 2014 [EBook #9294] +Release Date: November, 2005 +First Posted: September 16, 2003 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO ROCKY MTNS *** + + + + +Produced by Larry Mittell and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + + + + + + + FIFTEENTH THOUSAND. + + THE + EXPLORING EXPEDITION + TO THE + ROCKY MOUNTAINS, + OREGON AND CALIFORNIA, + + + BY BREVET COL. J.C. FREMONT. + + + TO WHICH IS ADDED A DESCRIPTION OF THE + PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF CALIFORNIA. + + WITH RECENT NOTICES OF + THE GOLD REGION + FROM THE LATEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES. + + 1852 + + +* * * * * + + +PREFACE. + +No work has appeared from the American press within the past few years +better calculated to interest the community at large than Colonel J.C. +Fremont's Narrative of his Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains, +Oregon, and North California, undertaken by the orders of the United +States government. + +Eminently qualified for the task assigned him, Colonel Fremont entered +upon his duties with alacrity, and has embodied in the following pages +the results of his observations. The country thus explored is daily +making deeper and more abiding impressions upon the minds of the +people, and information is eagerly sought in regard to its natural +resources, its climate, inhabitants, productions, and adaptation for +supplying the wants and providing the comforts for a dense population. +The day is not far distant when that territory, hitherto so little +known, will be intersected by railroads, its waters navigated, and its +fertile portions peopled by an active and intelligent population. + +To all persons interested in the successful extension of our free +institutions over this now wilderness portion of our land, this work of +Fremont commends itself as a faithful and accurate statement of the +present state of affairs in that country. + +Since the preparation of this report, Colonel Fremont has been engaged +in still farther explorations by order of the government, the results +of which will probably be presented to the country as soon as he shall +be relieved from his present arduous and responsible station. He is now +engaged in active military service in New Mexico, and has won +imperishable renown by his rapid and successful subjugation of that +country. + +The map accompanying this edition is not the one prepared by the order +of government, but it is one that can be relied upon for its accuracy. + +July, 1847. + + + +* * * * * + + +ADVERTISEMENT TO THE NEW EDITION. + +The dreams of the visionary have "come to pass!" the unseen El Dorado +of the "fathers" looms, in all its virgin freshness and beauty, before +the eyes of their children! The "set time" for the Golden age, the +advent of which has been looked for and longed for during many +centuries of iron wrongs and hardships, has fully come. In the sunny +clime of the south west--in Upper California--may be found the modern +Canaan, a land "flowing with milk and honey," its mountains studded and +its rivers lined and choked, with gold! + +He who would know more of this rich and rare land before commencing his +pilgrimage to its golden bosom, will find, in the last part of this new +edition of a most deservedly popular work, a succinct yet comprehensive +account of its inexhaustible riches and its transcendent loveliness, +and a fund of much needed information in regard to the several routes +which lead to its inviting borders. + +January 1849. + + + + +* * * * * + + + A REPORT + + ON + + AN EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY + LYING BETWEEN THE + MISSOURI RIVER AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, + + ON THE LINE OF THE + KANSAS AND GREAT PLATTE RIVERS. + + + +* * * * * + + +Washington, March 1, 1843. + +To Colonel J.J. Abert, _Chief of the Corps of Top. Eng._ + +Sir: Agreeably to your orders to explore and report upon the country +between the frontiers of Missouri and the South Pass in the Rocky +Mountains, and on the line of the Kansas and Great Platte rivers, I set +out from Washington city on the 2d day of May, 1842, and arrived at St. +Louis by way of New York, the 22d of May, where the necessary +preparations were completed, and the expedition commenced. I proceeded +in a steamboat to Chouteau's landing, about four hundred miles by water +from St. Louis, and near the mouth of the Kansas river, whence we +proceeded twelve miles to Mr. Cyprian Chouteau's trading-house, where +we completed our final arrangements for the expedition. + +Bad weather, which interfered with astronomical observations, delayed +us several days in the early part of June at this post, which is on the +right bank of the Kansas river, about ten miles above the mouth, and +six beyond the western boundary of Missouri. The sky cleared off at +length and we were enabled to determine our position, in longitude 90° +25' 46", and latitude 39° 5' 57". The elevation above the sea is about +700 feet. Our camp, in the mean time, presented an animated and +bustling scene. All were busily engaged in completing the necessary +arrangements for our campaign in the wilderness, and profiting by this +short stay on the verge of civilization, to provide ourselves with all +the little essentials to comfort in the nomadic life we were to lead +for the ensuing summer months. Gradually, however, every thing--the +_materiel_ of the camp--men, horses, and even mules--settled into its +place; and by the 10th we were ready to depart; but, before we mount +our horses, I will give a short description of the party with which I +performed the service. + +I had collected in the neighborhood of St. Louis twenty-one men, +principally Creole and Canadian _voyageurs_, who had become familiar +with prairie life in the service of the fur companies in the Indian +country. Mr. Charles Preuss, native of Germany, was my assistant in the +topographical part of the survey; L. Maxwell, of Kaskaskia, had been +engaged as hunter, and Christopher Carson (more familiarly known, for +his exploits in the mountains, as Kit Carson) was our guide. The +persons engaged in St. Louis were: + +Clement Lambert, J.B. L'Esperance, J.B. Lefevre, Benjamin Potra, Louis +Gouin, J.B. Dumes, Basil Lajeunesse, François Tessier, Benjamin +Cadotte, Joseph Clement, Daniel Simonds, Leonard Benoit, Michel Morly, +Baptiste Bernier, Honore Ayot, François La Tulipe, Francis Badeau, +Louis Menard, Joseph Ruelle, Moise Chardonnais, Auguste Janisse, +Raphael Proue. + +In addition to these, Henry Brant, son of Col. J.B. Brant, of St. +Louis, a young man of nineteen years of age, and Randolph, a lively boy +of twelve, son of the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, accompanied me, for the +development of mind and body such an expedition would give. We were +well armed and mounted, with the exception of eight men, who conducted +as many carts, in which were packed our stores, with the baggage and +instruments, and which were drawn by two mules. A few loose horses, and +four oxen, which had been added to our stock of provisions, completed +the train. We set out on the morning of the 10th, which happened to be +Friday, a circumstance which our men did not fail to remember and +recall during the hardships and vexations of the ensuing journey. Mr. +Cyprian Chouteau, to whose kindness, during our stay at his house, we +were much indebted, accompanied us several miles on our way, until we +met an Indian, whom he had engaged to conduct us on the first thirty or +forty miles, where he was to consign us to the ocean of prairie, which, +we were told, stretched without interruption almost to the base of the +Rocky Mountains. + +From the belt of wood which borders the Kansas, in which we had passed +several good-looking Indian farms, we suddenly emerged on the prairies, +which received us at the outset with some of their striking +characteristics; for here and there rode an Indian, and but a few miles +distant heavy clouds of smoke were rolling before the fire. In about +ten miles we reached the Santa Fé road, along which we continued for a +short time, and encamped early on a small stream--having traveled about +eleven miles. During our journey, it was the customary practice to +encamp an hour or two before sunset, when the carts were disposed so as +to form a sort of barricade around a circle some eighty yards in +diameter. The tents were pitched, and the horses hobbled and turned +loose to graze; and but a few minutes elapsed before the cooks of the +messes, of which there were four, were busily engaged in preparing the +evening meal. At nightfall, the horses, mules, and oxen were driven in +and picketed,--that is, secured by a halter, of which one end was tied +to a small steel-shod picket, and driven into the ground; the halter +being twenty or thirty feet long, which enabled them to obtain a little +food during the night. When we had reached a part of the country where +such a precaution became necessary, the carts being regularly arranged +for defending the camp, guard was mounted at eight o'clock, consisting +of three men, who were relieved every two hours--the morning-watch +being horse-guard for the day. At daybreak the camp was roused, the +animals turned loose to graze, and breakfast generally over between six +and seven o'clock, when we resumed our march, making regularly a halt +at noon for one or two hours. Such was usually the order of the day, +except when accident of country forced a variation; which, however, +happened but rarely. We traveled the next day along the Santa Fé road, +which we left in the afternoon, and encamped late in the evening on a +small creek, called by the Indians, Mishmagwi. Just as we arrived at +camp, one of the horses set off at full speed on his return, and was +followed by others. Several men were sent in pursuit, and returned with +the fugitives about midnight, with the exception of one man, who did +not make his appearance until morning. He had lost his way in the +darkness of the night, and slept on the prairie. Shortly after midnight +it began to rain heavily, and, as our tents were of light and thin +cloth, they offered but little obstruction to the rain: we were all +well soaked, and glad when morning came. We had a rainy march on the +12th, but the weather grew fine as the day advanced. We encamped in a +remarkably beautiful situation on the Kansas bluffs, which commanded a +fine view of the river valley, here from four to five miles wide. The +central portion was occupied by a broad belt of heavy timber, and +nearer the hills the prairies were of the richest verdure. One of the +oxen was killed here for food. + +We reached the ford of the Kansas late in the afternoon of the 14th, +where the river was two hundred and thirty yards wide, and commenced, +immediately, preparations for crossing. I had expected to find the +river fordable; but it had swollen by the late rains, and was sweeping +by with an angry current, yellow and turbid as the Missouri. Up to this +point the road we had traveled was a remarkably fine one, well beaten, +and level--the usual road of a prairie country. By our route, the ford +was one hundred miles from the mouth of the Kansas river. Several +mounted men led the way into the stream to swim across. The animals +were driven in after them, and in a few minutes all had reached the +opposite bank in safety, with the exception of the oxen, which swam +some distance down the river, and, returning to the right bank, were +not got over till the next morning. In the mean time, the carts had +been unloaded and dismantled, and an India-rubber boat, which I had +brought with me for the survey of the Platte river, placed in the +water. The boat was twenty feet long and five broad, and on it were +placed the body and wheels of a cart, with the load belonging to it, +and three men with paddles. + +The velocity of the current, and the inconvenient freight, rendering it +difficult to be managed, Basil Lajeunesse, one of our best swimmers, +took in his teeth a line attached to the boat, and swam ahead in order +to reach a footing as soon as possible, and assist in drawing her over. +In this manner six passages had been successfully made, and as many +carts with their contents, and a greater portion of the party, +deposited on the left bank; but night was drawing near, and, in our +anxiety to have all over before the darkness closed in, I put upon the +boat the remaining two carts, with their accompanying load. The man at +the helm was timid on water, and in his alarm capsized the boat. Carts, +barrels, boxes, and bales, were in a moment floating down the current; +but all the men who were on the shore jumped into the water, without +stopping to think if they could swim, and almost every thing--even +heavy articles, such as guns and lead--was recovered. + +Two of the men who could not swim came nigh being drowned, and all the +sugar belonging to one of the messes wasted its sweets on the muddy +waters; but our heaviest loss was a large bag of coffee, which +contained nearly all our provision. It was a loss which none but a +traveler in a strange and inhospitable country can appreciate; and +often afterward, when excessive toil and long marching had overcome us +with fatigue and weariness, we remembered and mourned over our loss in +the Kansas. Carson and Maxwell had been much in the water yesterday, +and both, in consequence, were taken ill. The former continuing so, I +remained in camp. A number of Kansas Indians visited us to-day. Going +up to one of the groups who were scattered among the trees, I found one +sitting on the ground, among some of the men, gravely and fluently +speaking French, with as much facility and as little embarrassment as +any of my own party, who were nearly all of French origin. + +On all sides was heard the strange language of his own people, wild, +and harmonizing well with their appearance. I listened to him for some +time with feelings of strange curiosity and interest. He was now +apparently thirty-five years of age; and, on inquiry, I learned that he +had been at St. Louis when a boy, and there had learned the French +language. From one of the Indian women I obtained a fine cow and calf +in exchange for a yoke of oxen. Several of them brought us vegetables, +pumpkins, onions, beans, and lettuce. One of them brought butter, and +from a half-breed near the river, I had the good fortune to obtain some +twenty or thirty pounds of coffee. The dense timber in which we had +encamped interfered with astronomical observations, and our wet and +damaged stores required exposure to the sun. Accordingly, the tents +were struck early the next morning, and, leaving camp at six o'clock, +we moved about seven miles up the river, to a handsome, open prairie, +some twenty feet above the water, where the fine grass afforded a +luxurious repast to our horses. + +During the day we occupied ourselves in making astronomical +observations, in order to lay down the country to this place; it being +our custom to keep up our map regularly in the field, which we found +attended with many advantages. The men were kept busy in drying the +provisions, painting the cart covers, and otherwise completing our +equipage, until the afternoon, when powder was distributed to them, and +they spent some hours in firing at a mark. We were now fairly in the +Indian country, and it began to be time to prepare for the chances of +the wilderness. + +17th.--The weather yesterday had not permitted us to make the +observations I was desirous to obtain here, and I therefore did not +move to-day. The people continued their target firing. In the steep +bank of the river here, were nests of innumerable swallows, into one of +which a large prairie snake had got about half his body, and was +occupied in eating the young birds. The old ones were flying about in +great distress, darting at him, and vainly endeavoring to drive him +off. A shot wounded him, and, being killed, he was cut open, and +eighteen young swallows were found in his body. A sudden storm, that +burst upon us in the afternoon, cleared away in a brilliant sunset, +followed by a clear night, which enabled us to determine our position +in longitude 95° 38' 05", and in latitude 39° 06' 40". + +A party of emigrants to the Columbia river, under the charge of Dr. +White, an agent of the government in Oregon Territory, were about three +weeks in advance of us. They consisted of men, women, and children. +There were sixty-four men, and sixteen or seventeen families. They had +a considerable number of cattle, and were transporting their household +furniture in large, heavy wagons. I understood that there had been much +sickness among them, and that they had lost several children. One of +the party who had lost his child, and whose wife was very ill, had left +them about one hundred miles hence on the prairies; and as a hunter, +who had accompanied them, visited our camp this evening, we availed +ourselves of his return to the States to write to our friends. + +The morning of the 18th was very unpleasant. A fine rain was falling, +with cold wind from the north, and mists made the river hills look dark +and gloomy. We left our camp at seven, journeying along the foot of the +hills which border the Kansas valley, generally about three miles wide, +and extremely rich. We halted for dinner, after a march of about +thirteen miles, on the banks of one of the many little tributaries to +the Kansas, which look like trenches in the prairie, and are usually +well timbered. After crossing this stream, I rode off some miles to the +left, attracted by the appearance of a cluster of huts near the mouth +of the Vermilion. It was a large but deserted Kansas village, scattered +in an open wood, along the margin of the stream, chosen with the +customary Indian fondness for beauty of scenery. The Pawnees had +attacked it in the early spring. Some of the houses were burnt, and +others blackened with smoke, and weeds were already getting possession +of the cleared places. Riding up the Vermilion river, I reached the +ford in time to meet the carts, and, crossing, encamped on its western +side. The weather continued cold, the thermometer being this evening as +low as 49°; but the night was sufficiently clear for astronomical +observations, which placed us in longitude 96° 04' 07", and latitude +39° 15' 19". At sunset, the barometer was at 28.845, thermometer 64°. + +We breakfasted the next morning at half-past five, and left our +encampment early. The morning was cool, the thermometer being at 45°. +Quitting the river bottom, the road ran along the uplands, over a +rolling country, generally in view of the Kansas from eight to twelve +miles distant. Many large boulders, of a very compact sandstone, of +various shades of red, some of them of four or five tons in weight, +were scattered along the hills; and many beautiful plants in flower, +among which the _amorpha canescens_ was a characteristic, enlivened the +green of the prairie. At the heads of the ravines I remarked, +occasionally, thickets of _saix longifolia_, the most common willow of +the country. We traveled nineteen miles and pitched our tents at +evening on the head-waters of a small creek, now nearly dry, but having +in its bed several fine springs. The barometer indicated a considerable +rise in the country--here about fourteen hundred feet above the +sea--and the increased elevation appeared already to have some slight +influence upon vegetation. The night was cold, with a heavy dew; the +thermometer at 10 P.M. standing at 46°, barometer 28.483. Our position +was in longitude 96° 14' 49", and latitude 39° 30' 40". + +The morning of the 20th was fine, with a southerly breeze and a bright +sky; and at seven o'clock we were on the march. The country to-day was +rather more broken, rising still, and covered everywhere with fragments +of silicious limestone, particularly on the summits, where they were +small, and thickly strewed as pebbles on the shore of the sea. In these +exposed situations grew but few plants; though, whenever the soil was +good and protected from the winds, in the creek bottoms and ravines, +and on the slopes, they flourished abundantly; among them the +_amorpha_, still retaining its characteristic place. We crossed, at 10 +A.M. the Big Vermilion, which has a rich bottom of about one mile in +breadth, one-third of which is occupied by timber. Making our usual +halt at noon, after a day's march of twenty-four miles, we reached the +Big Blue, and encamped on the uplands of the western side, near a small +creek, where was a fine large spring of very cold water. This is a +clear and handsome stream, about one hundred and twenty feet wide, +running with a rapid current, through a well-timbered valley. To-day +antelope were seen running over the hills, and at evening Carson +brought us a fine deer. Longitude of the camp 96° 32' 35", latitude 39° +45' 08". Thermometer at sunset 75°. A pleasant southerly breeze and +fine morning had given place to a gale, with indications of bad +weather; when, after a march of ten miles, we halted to noon on a small +creek, where the water stood in deep pools. In the bank of the creek +limestone made its appearance in a stratum about one foot thick. In the +afternoon, the people seemed to suffer for want of water. The road led +along a high dry ridge; dark lines of timber indicated the heads of +streams in the plains below; but there was no water near, and the day +was oppressive, with a hot wind, and the thermometer at 90°. Along our +route the _amorpha_ has been in very abundant but variable bloom--in +some places bending beneath the weight of purple clusters; in others +without a flower. It seemed to love best the sunny slopes, with a dark +soil and southern exposure. Everywhere the rose is met with, and +reminds us of cultivated gardens and civilization. It is scattered over +the prairies in small bouquets, and, when glittering in the dews and +waving in the pleasant breeze of the early morning, is the most +beautiful of the prairie flowers. The _artemisia_, absinthe, or prairie +sage, as it is variously called, is increasing in size, and glittering +like silver, as the southern breeze turns up its leaves to the sun. All +these plants have their insect inhabitants, variously colored--taking +generally the hue of the flower on which they live. The _artemisia_ has +its small fly accompanying it through every change of elevation and +latitude; and wherever I have seen the _asclepias tuberosa_, I have +always remarked, too, on the flower a large butterfly, so nearly +resembling it in color as to be distinguishable at a little distance +only by the motion of its wings. Traveling on, the fresh traces of the +Oregon emigrants relieve a little the loneliness of the road; and +to-night, after a march of twenty-two miles, we halted on a small creek +which had been one of their encampments. As we advanced westward, the +soil appears to be getting more sandy; and the surface rock, an erratic +deposite of sand and gravel, rests here on a bed of coarse yellow and +gray and very friable sandstone. Evening closed over with rain and its +usual attendant hordes of mosquitoes, with which we were annoyed for +the first time. + +22d.--We enjoyed at breakfast this morning a luxury, very unusual in +this country, in a cup of excellent coffee, with cream, from our cow. +Being milked at night, cream was thus had in the morning. Our mid-day +halt was at Wyeth's creek, in the bed of which were numerous boulders +of dark, ferruginous sandstone, mingled with others of the red +sandstone already mentioned. Here a pack of cards, lying loose on the +grass, marked an encampment of our Oregon emigrants; and it was at the +close of the day when we made our bivouac in the midst of some +well-timbered ravines near the Little Blue, twenty-four miles from our +camp of the preceding night. Crossing the next morning a number of +handsome creeks, with water clear and sandy beds we reached, at 10 +A.M., a very beautiful wooded stream, about thirty-five feet wide, +called Sandy creek, and sometimes, as the Ottoes frequently winter +there, the Otto fork. The country has become very sandy, and the plants +less varied and abundant, with the exception of the _amorpha_, which +rivals the grass in quantity, though not so forward as it has been +found to the eastward. + +At the Big Trees, where we had intended to noon, no water was to be +found. The bed of the little creek was perfectly dry, and, on the +adjacent sandy bottom, _cacti_, for the first time made their +appearance. We made here a short delay in search of water; and, after a +hard day's march of twenty-eight miles, encamped, at 5 o'clock, on the +Little Blue, where our arrival made a scene of the Arabian desert. As +fast as they arrived men and horses rushed into the stream, where they +bathed and drank together in common enjoyment. We were now in the range +of the Pawnees, who were accustomed to infest this part of the country, +stealing horses from companies on their way to the mountains; and, when +in sufficient force, openly attacking and plundering them, and +subjecting them to various kinds of insult. For the first time, +therefore, guard was mounted to-night. Our route the next morning lay +up the valley, which, bordered by hills with graceful slopes, looked +uncommonly green and beautiful. The stream was about fifty feet wide, +and three or four deep, fringed by cotton-wood and willow, with +frequent groves of oak, tenanted by flocks of turkeys. Game here, too, +made its appearance in greater plenty. Elk were frequently seen on the +hills, and now and then an antelope bounded across our path, or a deer +broke from the groves. The road in the afternoon was over the upper +prairies, several miles from the river, and we encamped at sunset on +one of its small tributaries, where an abundance of prele (_equisetum_) +afforded fine forage to our tired animals. We had traveled thirty-one +miles. A heavy bank of black clouds in the west came on us in a storm +between nine and ten, preceded by a violent wind. The rain fell in such +torrents that it was difficult to breathe facing the wind; the thunder +rolled incessantly, and the whole sky was tremulous with lightning--now +and then illuminated by a blinding flash, succeeded by pitchy darkness. +Carson had the watch from ten to midnight, and to him had been assigned +our young _compagnons de voyage_, Messrs. Brant and R. Benton. This was +their first night on guard, and such an introduction did not augur very +auspiciously of the pleasures of the expedition. Many things conspired +to render their situation uncomfortable; stories of desperate and +bloody Indian fights were rife in the camp; our position was badly +chosen, surrounded on all sides by timbered hollows, and occupying an +area of several hundred feet, so that necessarily the guards were far +apart; and now and then I could hear Randolph, as if relieved by the +sound of a voice in the darkness, calling out to the sergeant of the +guard, to direct his attention to some imaginary alarm; but they stood +it out, and took their turn regularly afterwards. + +The next morning we had a specimen of the false alarms to which all +parties in these wild regions are subject. Proceeding up the valley, +objects were seen on the opposite hills, which disappeared before a +glass could be brought to bear upon them. A man who was a short +distance in the rear, came springing up in great haste, shouting +"Indians! Indians!" He had been near enough to see and count them, +according to his report, and had made out twenty-seven. I immediately +halted; arms were examined and put in order; the usual preparations +made; and Kit Carson, springing upon one of the hunting horses, crossed +the river, and galloped off into the opposite prairies, to obtain some +certain intelligence of their movements. + +Mounted on a fine horse, without a saddle, and scouring bare-headed +over the prairies, Kit was one of the finest pictures of a horseman I +have ever seen. A short time enabled him to discover that the Indian +war-party of twenty-seven consisted of six elk, who had been gazing +curiously at our caravan as it passed by, and were now scampering off +at full speed. This was our first alarm, and its excitement broke +agreeably on the monotony of the day. At our noon halt, the men were +exercised at a target; and in the evening we pitched our tents at a +Pawnee encampment of last July. They had apparently killed buffalo +here, as many bones were lying about, and the frames where the hides +had been stretched were yet standing. The road of the day had kept the +valley, which is sometimes rich and well timbered, though the country +generally is sandy. Mingled with the usual plants, a thistle (_carduus +leucographus_) had for the last day or two made its appearance; and +along the river bottom, _tradescantia_ (virginica) and milk plant +(_asclepias syriaca_) [Footnote: This plant is very odoriferous, and in +Canada charms the traveler, especially when passing through woods in +the evening. The French there eat the tender shoots in the spring, as +we do asparagus. The natives make a sugar of the flowers, gathering +them in the morning when they are covered with dew, and collect the +cotton from their pods to fill their beds. On account of the silkiness +of this cotton, Parkinson calls the plant Virginian silk.--_Loudon's +Encyclopædia of Plants_. + +The Sioux Indians of the Upper Platte eat the young pods of this plant, +boiling them with the meat of the buffalo.] in considerable quantities. + +Our march to-day had been twenty-one miles, and the astronomical +observations gave us a chronometric longitude of 98° 22' 12", and +latitude 40° 26' 50". We were moving forward at seven in the morning, +and in about five miles reached a fork of the Blue, where the road +leaves that river, and crosses over to the Platte. No water was to be +found on the dividing ridge, and the casks were filled, and the animals +here allowed a short repose. The road led across a high and level +prairie ridge, where were but few plants, and those principally +thistle, (_carduus leucographus_,) and a kind of dwarf artemisia. +Antelope were seen frequently during the morning, which was very +stormy. Squalls of rain, with thunder and lightning, were around us in +every direction; and while we were enveloped in one of them, a flash, +which seemed to scorch our eyes as it passed, struck in the prairie +within a few hundred feet, sending up a column of dust. + +Crossing on the way several Pawnee roads to the Arkansas, we reached, +in about twenty-one miles from our halt on the Blue, what is called the +coast of the Nebraska, or Platte river. This had seemed in the distance +a range of high and broken hills; but on a nearer approach was found to +be elevations of forty to sixty feet into which the wind had worked the +sand. They were covered with the usual fine grasses of the country, and +bordered the eastern side of the ridge on a breadth of about two miles. +Change of soil and country appeared here to have produced some change +in the vegetation. _Cacti_ were numerous, and all the plants of the +region appeared to flourish among the warm hills. Among them the +_amorpha_, in full bloom, was remarkable for its large and luxuriant +purple clusters. From the foot of the coast, a distance of two miles +across the level bottom brought us to our encampment on the shore of +the river, about twenty miles below the head of Grand Island, which lay +extended before us, covered with dense and heavy woods. From the mouth +of the Kansas, according to our reckoning, we had traveled three +hundred and twenty-eight miles; and the geological formation of the +country we had passed over consisted of lime and sand stone, covered by +the same erratic deposits of sand and gravel which forms the surface +rock of the prairies between the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. +Except in some occasional limestone boulders, I had met with no +fossils. The elevation of the Platte valley above the sea is here about +two thousand feet. The astronomical observations of the night placed us +in longitude 98° 45' 49", latitude 40° 41' 06". + +27th.--The animals were somewhat fatigued by their march of yesterday, +and, after a short journey of eighteen miles along the river bottom, I +encamped near the head of Grand Island, in longitude, by observation, +99° 05' 24", latitude 40° 39' 32". The soil was here light but rich, +though in some places rather sandy; and, with the exception of +scattered fringe along the bank, the timber, consisting principally of +poplar, (_populus moniliefera_,) elm, and hackberry, (_celtis +crassifolia_,) is confined almost entirely to the islands. + +28th.--We halted to noon at an open reach of the river, which occupies +rather more than a fourth of the valley, here only about four miles +broad. The camp had been disposed with the usual precaution, the horses +grazing at a little distance, attended by the guard, and we were all +sitting quietly at our dinner on the grass, when suddenly we heard the +startling cry, "Du monde!" In an instant, every man's weapon was in his +hand, the horses were driven in, hobbled and picketed, and horsemen +were galloping at full speed in the direction of the newcomers, +screaming and yelling with the wildest excitement. "Get ready, my +lads!" said the leader of the approaching party to his men, when our +wild looking horsemen were discovered bearing down upon them--"nous +allons attraper des coups de baguette." They proved to be a small party +of fourteen, under the charge of a man named John Lee, and, with their +baggage and provisions strapped to their backs, were making their way +on foot to the frontier. A brief account of their fortunes will give +some idea of navigation in the Nebraska. Sixty days since, they had +left the mouth of Laramie's fork, some three hundred miles above, in +barges laden with the furs of the American Fur Company. They started +with the annual flood, and, drawing but nine inches water, hoped to +make a speedy and prosperous voyage to St. Louis; but, after a lapse of +forty days, found themselves only one hundred and thirty miles from +their point of departure. They came down rapidly as far as Scott's +bluffs, where their difficulties began. Sometimes they came upon places +where the water was spread over a great extent, and here they toiled +from morning until night, endeavoring to drag their boat through the +sands, making only two or three miles in as many days. Sometimes they +would enter an arm of the river, where there appeared a fine channel, +and, after descending prosperously for eight or ten miles, would come +suddenly upon dry sands, and be compelled to return, dragging their +boat for days against the rapid current; and at others, they came upon +places where the water lay in holes, and, getting out to float off +their boat, would fall into water up to their necks, and the next +moment tumble over against a sandbar. Discouraged at length, and +finding the Platte growing every day more shallow, they discharged the +principal part of their cargoes one hundred and thirty miles below Fort +Laramie, which they secured as well as possible, and, leaving a few men +to guard them, attempted to continue their voyage, laden with some +light furs and their personal baggage. After fifteen or twenty days +more struggling in the sands, during which they made but one hundred +and forty miles, they sunk their barges, made a _cache_ of their +remaining furs and property in trees on the bank, and, packing on his +back what each man could carry, had commenced, the day before we +encountered them, their journey on foot to St. Louis. We laughed then +at their forlorn and vagabond appearance, and, in our turn, a month or +two afterwards, furnished the same occasion for merriment to others. +Even their stock of tobacco, that _sine qua non_ of a voyageur, without +which the night fire is gloomy, was entirely exhausted. However, we +shortened their homeward journey by a small supply from our own +provision. They gave us the welcome intelligence that the buffalo were +abundant some two days' march in advance, and made us a present of some +choice pieces, which were a very acceptable change from our salt pork. +In the interchange of news, and the renewal of old acquaintanceships, +we found wherewithal to fill a busy hour; then we mounted our horses +and they shouldered their packs, and we shook hands and parted. Among +them, I had found an old companion on the northern prairie, a hardened +and hardly served veteran of the mountains, who had been as much hacked +and scarred as an old moustache of Napoleon's "old guard." He +flourished in the sobriquet of La Tulipe, and his real name I never +knew. Finding that he was going to the States only because his company +was bound in that direction, and that he was rather more willing to +return with me, I took him again into my service. We traveled this day +but seventeen miles. + +At our evening camp, about sunset, three figures were discovered +approaching, which our glasses made out to be Indians. They proved to +be Cheyennes--two men, and a boy of thirteen. About a month since, they +had left their people on the south fork of the river, some three +hundred miles to the westward, and a party of only four in number had +been to the Pawnee villages on a horse-stealing excursion, from which +they were returning unsuccessful. They were miserably mounted on wild +horses from the Arkansas plains, and had no other weapons than bows and +long spears; and had they been discovered by the Pawnees, could not, by +any possibility, have escaped. They were mortified by their +ill-success, and said the Pawnees were cowards, who shut up their +horses in their lodges at night. I invited them to supper with me, and +Randolph and the young Cheyenne, who had been eyeing each other +suspiciously and curiously, soon became intimate friends. After supper +we sat down on the grass, and I placed a sheet of paper between us, on +which they traced, rudely, but with a certain degree of relative truth, +the water-courses of the country which lay between us and their +villages, and of which I desired to have some information. Their +companions, they told us, had taken a nearer route over the hills; but +they had mounted one of the summits to spy out the country, whence they +had caught a glimpse of our party, and, confident of good treatment at +the hands of the whites, hastened to join company. Latitude of the camp +40° 39' 51". + +We made the next morning sixteen miles. I remarked that the ground was +covered in many places with an efflorescence of salt, and the plants +were not numerous. In the bottoms were frequently seen tradescantia, +and on the dry lenches were carduus, cactus, and amorpha. A high wind +during the morning had increased to a violent gale from the northwest, +which made our afternoon ride cold and unpleasant. We had the welcome +sight of two buffaloes on one of the large islands, and encamped at a +clump of timber about seven miles from our noon halt, after a day's +march of twenty-two miles. + +The air was keen the next morning at sunrise, the thermometer standing +at 44°, and it was sufficiently cold to make overcoats very +comfortable. A few miles brought us into the midst of the buffalo, +swarming in immense numbers over the plains, where they had left +scarcely a blade of grass standing. Mr. Preuss, who was sketching at a +little distance in the rear, had at first noted them as large groves of +timber. In the sight of such a mass of life, the traveler feels a +strange emotion of grandeur. We had heard from a distance a dull and +confused murmuring, and, when we came in view of their dark masses, +there was not one among us who did not feel his heart beat quicker. It +was the early part of the day, when the herds are feeding; and +everywhere they were in motion. Here and there a huge old bull was +rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the air from various +parts of the bands, each the scene of some obstinate fight. Indians and +buffalo make the poetry and life of the prairie, and our camp was full +of their exhilaration. In place of the quiet monotony of the march, +relieved only by the cracking of the whip, and an "avance donc! enfant +de garce!" shouts and songs resounded from every part of the line, and +our evening camp was always the commencement of a feast, which +terminated only with our departure on the following morning. At any +time of the night might be seen pieces of the most delicate and +choicest meat, roasting _en appolas_, on sticks around the fire, and +the guard were never without company. With pleasant weather and no +enemy to fear, an abundance of the most excellent meat, and no scarcity +of bread or tobacco, they were enjoying the oasis of a voyageur's life. +Three cows were killed to-day. Kit Carson had shot one, and was +continuing the chase in the midst of another herd, when his horse fell +headlong, but sprang up and joined the flying band. Though considerably +hurt, he had the good fortune to break no bones; and Maxwell, who was +mounted on a fleet hunter, captured the runaway after a hard chase. He +was on the point of shooting him, to avoid the loss of his bridle, (a +handsomely mounted Spanish one,) when he found that his horse was able +to come up with him. Animals are frequently lost in this way; and it is +necessary to keep close watch over them, in the vicinity of the +buffalo, in the midst of which they scour off to the plains, and are +rarely retaken. One of our mules took a sudden freak into his head, and +joined a neighboring band to-day. As we were not in a condition to lose +horses, I sent several men in pursuit, and remained in camp, in the +hope of recovering him; but lost the afternoon to no purpose, as we did +not see him again. Astronomical observations placed us in longitude +100° 05' 47", latitude 40° 49' 55" + + + +JULY. + + +1st.--Along our road to-day the prairie bottom was more elevated and +dry, and the river hills which border the right side of the river +higher, and more broken and picturesque in the outline. The country, +too, was better timbered. As we were riding quietly along the bank, a +grand herd of buffalo, some seven or eight hundred in number, came +crowding up from the river, where they had been to drink, and commenced +crossing the plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind was favorable; +the coolness of the morning invited to exercise; the ground was +apparently good, and the distance across the prairie (two or three +miles) gave us a fine opportunity to charge them before they could get +among the river hills. It was too fine a prospect for a chase to be +lost; and, halting for a few moments, the hunters were brought up and +saddled, and Kit Carson, Maxwell, and I, started together. They were +now somewhat less than half a mile distant, and we rode easily along +until within about three hundred yards, when a sudden agitation, a +wavering in the band, and a galloping to and fro of some which were +scattered along the skirts, gave us the intimation that we were +discovered. We started together at a hand gallop, riding steadily +abreast of each other; and here the interest of the chase became so +engrossingly intense, that we were sensible to nothing else. We were +now closing upon them rapidly, and the front of the mass was already in +rapid motion for the hills, and in a few seconds the movement had +communicated itself to the whole herd. + +A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the rear, and every now and then +some of them faced about, and then dashed on after the band a short +distance, and turned and looked again, as if more than half inclined to +fight. In a few moments, however, during which we had been quickening +our pace, the rout was universal, and we were going over the ground +like a hurricane. When at about thirty yards, we gave the usual shout, +(the hunter's _pas de charge_,) and broke into the herd. We entered on +the side, the mass giving way in every direction in their heedless +course. Many of the bulls, less active and fleet than the cows, paying +no attention to the ground, and occupied solely with the hunter, were +precipitated to the earth with great force, rolling over and over with +the violence of the shock, and hardly distinguishable in the dust. We +separated on entering, each singling out his game. + +My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the West under the name of +Proveau; and, with his eyes flashing and the foam flying from his +mouth, sprang on after the cow like a tiger. In a few moments he +brought me alongside of her, and rising in the stirrups, I fired at the +distance of a yard, the ball entering at the termination of the long +hair, and passing near the heart. She fell headlong at the report of +the gun; and, checking my horse, I looked around for my companions. At +a little distance, Kit was on the ground, engaged in tying his horse to +the horns of a cow he was preparing to cut up. Among the scattered +bands, at some distance below, I caught a glimpse of Maxwell; and while +I was looking, a light wreath of smoke curled away from his gun, from +which I was too far to hear the report. Nearer, and between me and the +hills, towards which they were directing their course, was the body of +the herd; and, giving my horse the rein, we dashed after them. A thick +cloud of dust hung upon their rear, which filled my mouth and eyes, and +nearly smothered me. In the midst of this I could see nothing, and the +buffalo were not distinguishable until within thirty feet. They crowded +together more densely still as I came upon them, and rushed along in +such a compact body, that I could not obtain an entrance--the horse +almost leaping upon them. In a few moments the mass divided to the +right and left, the horns clattering with a noise heard above every +thing else, and my horse darted into the opening. Five or six bulls +charged on us as we dashed along the line, but were left far behind; +and, singling out a cow, I gave her my fire, but struck too high. She +gave a tremendous leap, and scoured on swifter than before. I reined up +my horse, and the band swept on like a torrent, and left the place +quiet and clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous ground. A +prairie-dog village, so thickly settled that there were three or four +holes in every twenty yards square, occupied the whole bottom for +nearly two miles in length. Looking around, I saw only one of the +hunters, nearly out of sight, and the long, dark line of our caravan +crawling along, three or four miles distant. After a march of +twenty-four miles, we encamped at nightfall, one mile and a half above +the lower end of Brady's Island. The breadth of this arm of the river +was eight hundred and eighty yards, and the water nowhere two feet in +depth. The island bears the name of a man killed on this spot some +years ago. His party had encamped here, three in company, and one of +the number went off to hunt, leaving Brady and his companion together. +These two had frequently quarreled, and on the hunter's return he found +Brady dead, and was told that he had shot himself accidentally. He was +buried here on the bank; but, as usual, the wolves tore him out, and +some human bones that were lying on the ground we supposed were his. +Troops of wolves that were hanging on the skirts of the buffalo, kept +up an uninterrupted howling during the night, venturing almost into +camp. In the morning, they were sitting at a short distance, barking, +and impatiently waiting our departure, to fall upon the bones. + +2d.--The morning was cool and smoky. Our road led closer to the hills, +which here increased in elevation, presenting an outline of conical +peaks three hundred to five hundred feet high. Some timber, apparently +pine, grows in the ravines, and streaks of clay or sand whiten their +slopes. We crossed, during the morning, a number of hollows, timbered +principally with box, elder, (_acer negundo_,) poplar, and elm. Brady's +Island is well wooded, and all the river along which our road led +to-day, may, in general, be called tolerably well timbered. We passed +near the encampment of the Oregon emigrants, where they appeared to +have reposed several days. A variety of household articles were +scattered about, and they had probably disburdened themselves here of +many things not absolutely necessary. I had left the usual road before +the mid-day halt, and in the afternoon, having sent several men in +advance to reconnoitre, marched directly for the mouth of the South +fork. On our arrival, the horsemen were sent in and scattered about the +river to search for the best fording-places, and the carts followed +immediately. The stream is here divided by an island into two channels. +The southern is four hundred and fifty feet wide, having eighteen or +twenty inches water in the deepest places. With the exception of a few +dry bars, the bed of the river is generally quicksands, in which the +carts began to sink rapidly so soon as the mules halted, so that it was +necessary to keep them constantly in motion. + +The northern channel, two thousand two hundred and fifty feet wide, was +somewhat deeper, having frequently three feet water in the numerous +small channels, with a bed of coarse gravel. The whole breadth of the +Nebraska, immediately below the junction, is five thousand three +hundred and fifty feet. All our equipage had reached the left bank +safely at six o'clock, having to-day made twenty miles. We encamped at +the point of land immediately at the junction of the North and South +forks. Between the streams is a low rich prairie extending from their +confluence eighteen miles westwardly to the bordering hills, where it +is five and a half miles wide. It is covered with a luxuriant growth of +grass, and along the banks is a slight and scattered fringe of +cottonwood and willow. In the buffalo-trails and wallows, I remarked +saline efflorescences, to which a rapid evaporation in the great heat +of the sun probably contributes, as the soil is entirely unprotected by +timber. In the vicinity of these places there was a bluish grass, which +the cattle refuse to eat, called by the voyageurs "herbe salée," (salt +grass.) The latitude of the junction is 41° 04' 47", and longitude, by +chronometer and lunar distances, 100° 49' 43". The elevation above the +sea is about two thousand seven hundred feet. The hunters came in with +a fat cow; and, as we had labored hard, we enjoyed well a supper of +roasted ribs and boudins, the chef d'oeuvre of a prairie cook. +Mosquitoes thronged about us this evening; but, by ten o'clock, when +the thermometer had fallen to 47°, they had all disappeared. + +3d.--As this was to be a point in our homeward journey, I made a cache +(a term used in all this country for what is hidden in the ground) of a +barrel of pork. It was impossible to conceal such a proceeding from the +sharp eyes of our Cheyenne companions, and I therefore told them to go +and see what it was they were burying. They would otherwise have not +failed to return and destroy our cache in expectation of some rich +booty; but pork they dislike and never eat. We left our camp at nine, +continuing up the South fork, the prairie-bottom affording us a fair +road; but in the long grass we roused myriads of mosquitoes and flies, +from which our horses suffered severely. The day was smoky, with a +pleasant breeze from the south, and the plains on the opposite side +were covered with buffalo. Having traveled twenty-five miles, we +encamped at six in the evening; and the men were sent across the river +for wood, as there is none here on the left bank. Our fires were +partially made of the _bois de vache_, the dry excrement of the +buffalo, which, like that of the camel in the Arabian deserts, +furnishes to the traveler a very good substitute for wood, burning like +turf. Wolves in great numbers surrounded us during the night, crossing +and recrossing from the opposite herds to our camp, and howling and +trotting about in the river until morning. + +4th.--The morning was very smoky, the sun shining dimly and red, as in +thick fog. The camp was roused by a salute at daybreak, and from our +scanty store a portion of what our Indian friends called the "red +fire-water" served out to the men. While we were at breakfast, a +buffalo-calf broke through the camp, followed by a couple of wolves. In +its fright, it had probably mistaken us for a band of buffalo. The +wolves were obliged to make a circuit round the camp, so that the calf +got a little the start, and strained every nerve to reach a large herd +at the foot of the hills, about two miles distant; but first one and +then another, and another wolf joined in the chase, until his pursuers +amounted to twenty or thirty, and they ran him down before he could +reach his friends. There were a few bulls near the place, and one of +them attacked the wolves and tried to rescue him; but was driven off +immediately, and the little animal fell an easy prey, half devoured +before he was dead. We watched the chase with the interest always felt +for the weak; and had there been a saddled horse at hand, he would have +fared better. Leaving camp, our road soon approached the hills, in +which strata of a marl like that of the Chimney rock, hereafter +described, made their appearance. It is probably of this rock that the +hills on the right bank of the Platte, a little below the junction, are +composed, and which are worked by the winds and rains into sharp peaks +and cones, giving them, in contrast to the surrounding level region, +something of a picturesque appearance. We crossed, this morning, +numerous beds of the small creeks which, in the time of rains and +melting snow, pour down from the ridge, bringing down with them, +always, great quantities of sand and gravel, which have gradually +raised their beds four to ten feet above the level of the prairie, +which they cross, making each one of them a miniature Po. Raised in +this way above the surrounding prairie, without any bank, the long +yellow and winding line of their beds resembles a causeway from the +hills to the river. Many spots on the prairie are yellow with +sunflower, (_helianthus_.) + +As we were riding slowly along this afternoon, clouds of dust in the +ravines, among the hills to the right, suddenly attracted our +attention, and in a few minutes column after column of buffalo came +galloping down, making directly to the river. By the time the leading +herds had reached the water, the prairie was darkened with the dense +masses. Immediately before us, when the bands first came down into the +valley, stretched an unbroken line, the head of which was lost among +the river hills on the opposite side; and still they poured down from +the ridge on our right. From hill to hill, the prairie bottom was +certainly not less than two miles wide; and, allowing the animals to be +ten feet apart, and only ten in a line, there were already eleven +thousand in view. Some idea may thus be formed of their number when +they had occupied the whole plain. In a short time they surrounded us +on every side, extending for several miles in the rear, and forward as +far as the eye could reach; leaving around us, as we advanced, an open +space of only two or three hundred yards. This movement of the buffalo +indicated to us the presence of Indians on the North fork. + +I halted earlier than usual, about forty miles from the junction, and +all hands were soon busily engaged in preparing a feast to celebrate +the day. The kindness of our friends at St. Louis had provided us with +a large supply of excellent preserves and rich fruit-cake; and when +these were added to a macaroni soup, and variously prepared dishes of +the choicest buffalo-meat, crowned with a cup of coffee, and enjoyed +with prairie appetite, we felt, as we sat in barbaric luxury around our +smoking supper on the grass, a greater sensation of enjoyment than the +Roman epicure at his perfumed feast. But most of all it seemed to +please our Indian friends, who, in the unrestrained enjoyment of the +moment, demanded to know if our "medicine-days came often." No +restraint was exercised at the hospitable board, and, to the great +delight of his elders, our young Indian lad made himself extremely +drunk. + +Our encampment was within a few miles of the place where the road +crosses to the North fork, and various reasons led me to divide my +party at this point. The North fork was the principal object of my +survey; but I was desirous to ascend the South branch, with a view of +obtaining some astronomical positions, and determining the mouths of +its tributaries as far as St. Vrain's fort, estimated to be some two +hundred miles farther up the river, and near to Long's Peak. There I +hoped to obtain some mules, which I found would be necessary to relieve +my horses. In a military point of view, I was desirous to form some +opinion of the country relative to the establishment of posts on a line +connecting the settlements with the south pass of the Rocky Mountains, +by way of the Arkansas and the South and Laramie forks of the Platte. +Crossing the country northwestwardly from St. Vrain's fort, to the +American Company's fort at the mouth of the Laramie, would give me some +acquaintance with the affluents which head-in the mountain between the +two; I therefore determined to set out the next morning, accompanied by +four men--Maxwell, Bernier, Ayot, and Basil Lajeunesse. Our Cheyennes, +whose village lay up this river, also decided to accompany us. The +party I left in charge of Clement Lambert, with orders to cross to the +North fork; and at some convenient place, near to the _Coulée des +Frenes_, make a cache of every thing not absolutely necessary to the +further progress of our expedition. From this point, using the most +guarded precaution in his march through the country, he was to proceed +to the American Company's fort at the mouth of the Laramie's fork, and +await my arrival, which would be prior to the 16th, as on that and the +following night would occur some occultations which I was desirous to +obtain at that place. + +5th.--Before breakfast all was ready. We had one led horse in addition +to those we rode, and a pack-mule, destined to carry our instruments, +provisions, and baggage; the last two articles not being of great +weight. The instruments consisted of a sextant, artificial horizon, +&c., a barometer, spy-glass, and compass. The chronometer I of course +kept on my person. I had ordered the cook to put up for us some flour, +coffee, and sugar, and our rifles were to furnish the rest. One +blanket, in addition to his saddle and saddle blanket, furnished the +materials for each man's bed, and every one was provided with a change +of linen. All were armed with rifles or double-barrelled guns; and, in +addition to these, Maxwell and myself were furnished with excellent +pistols. Thus accoutred, we took a parting breakfast with our friends; +and set forth. + +Our journey the first day afforded nothing of any interest. We shot a +buffalo towards sunset, and having obtained some meat for our evening +meal, encamped where a little timber afforded us the means of making a +fire. Having disposed our meat on roasting-sticks, we proceeded to +unpack our bales in search of coffee and sugar, and flour for bread. +With the exception of a little parched coffee, unground, we found +nothing. Our cook had neglected to put it up, or it had been somehow +forgotten. Tired and hungry, with tough bull-meat without salt, (for we +had not been able to kill a cow,) and a little bitter coffee, we sat +down in silence to our miserable fare, a very disconsolate party; for +yesterday's feast was yet fresh in our memories, and this was our first +brush with misfortune. Each man took his blanket, and laid himself down +silently; for the worst part of these mishaps is, that they make people +ill-humored. To-day we had traveled about thirty-six miles. + +6th.--Finding that our present excursion would be attended with +considerable hardship, and unwilling to expose more persons than +necessary, I determined to send Mr. Preuss back to the party. His +horse, too, appeared in no condition to support the journey; and +accordingly, after breakfast, he took the road across the hills, +attended by one of my most trusty men, Bernier. The ridge between the +rivers is here about fifteen miles broad, and I expected he would +probably strike the fork near their evening camp. At all events he +would not fail to find their trail, and rejoin them the next day. + +We continued our journey, seven in number, including the three +Cheyennes. Our general course was southwest, up the valley of the +river, which was sandy, bordered on the northern side of the valley by +a low ridge; and on the south, after seven or eight miles, the river +hills became higher. Six miles from our resting-place we crossed the +bed of a considerable stream, now entirely dry--a bed of sand. In a +grove of willows, near the mouth, were the remains of a considerable +fort, constructed of trunks of large trees. It was apparently very old, +and had probably been the scene of some hostile encounter among the +roving tribes. Its solitude formed an impressive contrast to the +picture which our imaginations involuntarily drew of the busy scene +which had been enacted here. The timber appeared to have been much more +extensive formerly than now. There were but few trees, a kind of +long-leaved willow, standing; and numerous trunks of large trees were +scattered about on the ground. In many similar places I had occasion to +remark an apparent progressive decay in the timber. Ten miles farther +we reached the mouth of Lodge Pole creek, a clear and handsome stream, +running through a broad valley. In its course through the bottom it has +a uniform breadth of twenty-two feet and six inches in depth. A few +willows on the banks strike pleasantly on the eye, by their greenness, +in the midst of hot and barren sands. + +The _amorpha_ was frequent among the ravines, but the sunflower +(_helianthus_) was the characteristic; and flowers of deep warm colors +seem most to love the sandy soil. The impression of the country +traveled over to-day was one of dry and barren sands. We turned in +towards the river at noon, and gave our horses two hours for food and +rest. I had no other thermometer than the one attached to the +barometer, which stood at 89°, the height of the column in the +barometer being 26.235 at meridian. The sky was clear, with a high wind +from the south. At 2 we continued our journey; the wind had moderated, +and it became almost unendurably hot, and our animals suffered +severely. In the course of the afternoon, the wind rose suddenly, and +blew hard from the southwest, with thunder and lightning, and squalls +of rain; these were blown against us with violence by the wind; and, +halting, we turned our backs to the storm until it blew over. Antelope +were tolerably frequent, with a large gray hare; but the former were +shy, and the latter hardly worth the delay of stopping to shoot them; +so, as the evening drew near, we again had recourse to an old bull, and +encamped at sunset on an island in the Platte. + +We ate our meat with a good relish this evening, for we were all in +fine health, and had ridden nearly all of a long summer's day, with a +burning sun reflected from the sands. My companions slept rolled up in +their blankets, and the Indians lay in the grass near the fire; but my +sleeping-place generally had an air of more pretension. Our rifles were +tied together near the muzzle, the butts resting on the ground, and a +knife laid on the rope, to cut away in case of an alarm. Over this, +which made a kind of frame, was thrown a large India-rubber cloth, +which we used to cover our packs. This made a tent sufficiently large +to receive about half of my bed, and was a place of shelter for my +instruments; and as I was careful always to put this part against the +wind, I could lie here with a sensation of satisfied enjoyment, and +hear the wind blow, and the rain patter close to my head, and know that +I should be at least half dry. Certainly I never slept more soundly. +The barometer at sunset was 26.010, thermometer at 81°, and cloudy; but +a gale from the west sprang up with the setting sun, and in a few +minutes swept away every cloud from the sky. The evening was very fine, +and I remained up to take astronomical observations, which made our +position in latitude 40° 51' 17", and longitude 103° 07' 00". + +7th.--At our camp this morning, at six o'clock, the barometer was at +26.183, thermometer 69°, and clear, with a light wind from the +southwest. The past night had been squally, with high winds, and +occasionally a few drops of rain. Our cooking did not occupy much time, +and we left camp early. Nothing of interest occurred during the +morning. The same dreary barrenness, except that a hard marly clay had +replaced the sandy soil. Buffalo absolutely covered the plain, on both +sides of the river, and whenever we ascended the hills, scattered herds +gave life to the view in every direction. A small drove of wild horses +made their appearance on the low river bottoms, a mile or two to the +left, and I sent off one of the Indians (who seemed very eager to catch +one) on my led horse, a spirited and fleet animal. The savage +manoeuvred a little to get the wind of the horses, in which he +succeeded--approaching within a hundred yards without being discovered. +The chase for a few minutes was interesting. My hunter easily overtook +and passed the hindmost of the wild drove, which the did not attempt to +_lasso_; all his efforts being directed to capture the leader. But the +strength of the horse, weakened by insufficient nourishment of grass, +failed in a race, and all the drove escaped. We halted at noon on the +bank of the river, the barometer at that time being 26.192, and +thermometer 103°, with a light air from the south and clear weather. + +In the course of the afternoon, dust rising among the hills, at a +particular place, attracted our attention; and, riding up, we found a +band of eighteen or twenty buffalo bulls engaged in a desperate fight. +Though butting and goring were bestowed liberally, and without +distinction, yet their efforts were evidently directed against one--a +huge, gaunt old bull, very lean, while his adversaries were all fat and +in good order. He appeared very weak, and had already received some +wounds; and, while we were looking on, was several times knocked down +and badly hurt, and a very few moments would have put an end to him. Of +course, we took the side of the weaker party, and attacked the herd; +but they were so blind with rage, that they fought on, utterly +regardless of our presence although on foot and on horseback we were +firing, in open view, within twenty yards of them. But this did not +last long. In a very few seconds, we created a commotion among them. +One or two, which were knocked over by the balls, jumped up and ran off +into the hills; and they began to retreat slowly along a broad ravine +to the river, fighting furiously as they went. By the time they had +reached the bottom, we had pretty well dispersed them, and the old bull +hobbled off to lie down somewhere. One of his enemies remained on the +ground where we had first fired upon them, and we stopped there for a +short time to cut from him some meat for our supper. We had neglected +to secure our horses, thinking it an unnecessary precaution in their +fatigued condition; but our mule took it into his head to start, and +away he went, followed at full speed by the pack-horse, with all the +baggage and instruments on his back. They were recovered and brought +back, after a chase of a mile. Fortunately, everything was well +secured, so that nothing, not even the barometer, was in the least +injured. + +The sun was getting low, and some narrow lines of timber, four or five +miles distant, promised us a pleasant camp, where, with plenty of wood +for fire, and comfortable shelter, and rich grass for our animals, we +should find clear cool springs, instead of the warm water of the +Platte. On our arrival, we found the bed of a stream fifty to one +hundred feet wide, sunk some thirty feet below the level of the +prairie, with perpendicular banks, bordered by a fringe of green +cottonwood, but not a drop of water. There were several small forks to +the stream, all in the same condition. With the exception of the Platte +bottom, the country seemed to be of a clay formation, dry, and +perfectly devoid of any moisture, and baked hard by the sun. Turning +off towards the river, we reached the bank in about a mile, and were +delighted to find an old tree, with thick foliage and spreading +branches, where we encamped. At sunset, the barometer was at 25.950, +thermometer 81°, with a strong wind from S. 20° E., and the sky +partially covered with heavy masses of cloud, which settled a little +towards the horizon by ten o'clock, leaving it sufficiently clear for +astronomical observations, which placed us in latitude 40° 33' 26", and +longitude 103° 30' 37". + +8th.--The morning was very pleasant. The breeze was fresh from S. 50° +E., with few clouds; the barometer at six o'clock standing at 25.970, +and the thermometer at 70°. Since leaving the forks our route had +passed over a country alternately clay and sand, each presenting the +same naked waste. On leaving camp this morning, we struck again a sandy +region, in which the vegetation appeared somewhat more vigorous than +that which we had observed for the last few days; and on the opposite +side of the river were some tolerably large groves of timber. + +Journeying along, we came suddenly upon a place where the ground was +covered with horses' tracks, which had been made since the rain, and +indicated the immediate presence of Indians in our neighborhood. The +buffalo, too, which the day before had been so numerous were nowhere in +sight--another sure indication that there were people near. Riding on, +we discovered the carcass of a buffalo recently killed--perhaps the day +before. We scanned the horizon carefully with the glass, but no living +object was to be seen. For the next mile or two, the ground was dotted +with buffalo carcasses, which showed that the Indians had made a +surround here, and were in considerable force. We went on quickly and +cautiously, keeping the river bottom, and carefully avoiding the hills; +but we met with no interruption, and began to grow careless again. We +had already lost one of our horses, and here Basil's mule showed +symptoms of giving out, and finally refused to advance, being what the +Canadians call _reste_. He therefore dismounted, and drove her along +before him; but this was a very slow way of traveling. We had +inadvertently got about half a mile in advance, but our Cheyennes, who +were generally a mile or two in the rear, remained with him. There were +some dark-looking objects among the hills, about two miles to the left, +here low and undulating, which we had seen for a little time, and +supposed to be buffalo coming in to water; but, happening to look +behind, Maxwell saw the Cheyennes whipping up furiously, and another +glance at the dark objects showed them at once to be Indians coming up +at speed. + +Had we been well mounted and disencumbered of instruments, we might +have set them at defiance; but as it was, we were fairly caught. It was +too late to rejoin our friends, and we endeavored to gain a clump of +timber about half a mile ahead; but the instruments and tired state of +our horses did not allow us to go faster than a steady canter, and they +were gaining on us fast. At first, they did not appear to be more than +fifteen or twenty in number, but group after group darted into view at +the top of the hills, until all the little eminences seemed in motion; +and, in a few minutes from the time they were first discovered, two or +three hundred, naked to the breechcloth, were sweeping across the +prairie. In a few hundred yards we discovered that the timber we were +endeavoring to make was on the opposite side of the river; and before +we reach the bank, down came the Indians upon us. + +I am inclined to think that in a few seconds more the leading man, and +perhaps some of his companions, would have rolled in the dust; for we +had jerked the covers from our guns, and our fingers were on the +triggers. Men in such cases generally act from instinct, and a charge +from three hundred naked savages is a circumstance not well calculated +to promote a cool exercise of judgment. Just as he was about to fire, +Maxwell recognised the leading Indian, and shouted to him in the Indian +language, "You're a fool, G---- damn you--don't you know me?" The sound +of his own language seemed to shock the savage; and, swerving his horse +a little, he passed us like an arrow. He wheeled, as I rode out towards +him, and gave me his hand, striking his breast and exclaiming +"Arapaho!" They proved to be a village of that nation, among whom +Maxwell had resided as a trader a year or two previously, and +recognised him accordingly. We were soon in the midst of the band, +answering as well as we could a multitude of questions; of which the +very first was, of what tribe were our Indian companions who were +coming in the rear? They seemed disappointed to know that they were +Cheyennes, for they had fully anticipated a grand dance around a Pawnee +scalp that night. + +The chief showed us his village at a grove on the river six miles +ahead, and pointed out a band of buffalo on the other side of the +Platte, immediately opposite us, which he said they were going to +surround. They had seen the band early in the morning from their +village, and had been making a large circuit, to avoid giving them the +wind, when they discovered us. In a few minutes the women came +galloping up, astride on their horses, and naked from their knees down +and the hips up. They followed the men, to assist in cutting up and +carrying off the meat. + +The wind was blowing directly across the river, and the chief requested +us to halt where we were for awhile, in order to avoid raising the +herd. We therefore unsaddled our horses, and sat down on the bank to +view the scene; and our new acquaintances rode a few hundred yards +lower down, and began crossing the river. Scores of wild-looking dogs +followed, looking like troops of wolves, and having, in fact, but very +little of the dog in their composition. Some of them remained with us, +and I checked one of the men, whom I found aiming at one, which he was +about to kill for a wolf. The day had become very hot. The air was +clear, with a very slight breeze; and now, at 12 o'clock, while the +barometer stood at 25.920, the attached thermometer was at 108°. Our +Cheyennes had learned that with the Arapaho village were about twenty +lodges of their own, including their own families; they therefore +immediately commenced making their toilette. After bathing in the +river, they invested themselves in some handsome calico shirts, which I +afterwards learned they had stolen from my own men, and spent some time +in arranging their hair and painting themselves with some vermilion I +had given them. While they were engaged in this satisfactory manner, +one of their half-wild horses, to which the crowd of prancing animals +which had just passed had recalled the freedom of her existence among +the wild droves on the prairie, suddenly dashed into the hills at the +top of her speed. She was their pack-horse, and had on her back all the +worldly wealth of our poor Cheyennes, all their accoutrements, and all +the little articles which they had picked up among us, with some few +presents I had given them. The loss which they seemed to regret most +were their spears and shields, and some tobacco which they had received +from me. However, they bore it all with the philosophy of an Indian, +and laughingly continued their toilette. They appeared, however, to be +a little mortified at the thought of returning to the village in such a +sorry plight. "Our people will laugh at us," said one of them, +"returning to the village on foot, instead of driving back a drove of +Pawnee horses." He demanded to know if I loved my sorrel hunter very +much; to which I replied, he was the object of my most intense +affection. Far from being able to give, I was myself in want of horses; +and any suggestion of parting with the few I had valuable, was met with +a peremptory refusal. In the mean time, the slaughter was about to +commence on the other side. So soon as they reached it, Indians +separated into two bodies. One party proceeded across the prairie, +towards the hills, in an extended line, while the other went up the +river; and instantly as they had given the wind to the herd, the chase +commenced. The buffalo started for the hills, but were intercepted and +driven back towards the river, broken and running in every direction. +The clouds of dust soon covered the whole scene, preventing us from +having any but an occasional view. It had a very singular appearance to +us at a distance, especially when looking with the glass. We were too +far to hear the report of the guns, or any sound; and at every instant, +through the clouds of dust, which the sun made luminous, we could see +for a moment two or three buffalo dashing along, and close behind them +an Indian with his long spear, or other weapon, and instantly again +they disappeared. The apparent silence, and the dimly seen figures +flitting by with such rapidity, gave it a kind of dreamy effect, and +seemed more like a picture than a scene of real life. It had been a +large herd when the _cerne_ commenced, probably three or four hundred +in number; but, though I watched them closely, I did not see one emerge +from the fatal cloud where the work of destruction was going on. After +remaining here about an hour, we resumed our journey in the direction +of the village. + +Gradually, as we rode on, Indian after Indian came dropping along, +laden with meat; and by the time we had neared the lodges, the backward +road was covered with the returning horsemen. It was a pleasant +contrast with the desert road we had been traveling. Several had joined +company with us, and one of the chiefs invited us to his lodge. The +village consisted of about one hundred and twenty-five lodges, of which +twenty were Cheyennes; the latter pitched a little apart from the +Arapahoes. They were disposed in a scattering manner on both sides of a +broad, irregular street, about one hundred and fifty feet wide, and +running along the river. As we rode along, I remarked near some of the +lodges a kind of tripod frame, formed of three slender poles of birch, +scraped very clean, to which were affixed the shield and spear, with +some other weapons of a chief. All were scrupulously clean, the +spear-head was burnished bright; and the shield white and stainless. It +reminded me of the days of feudal chivalry; and when, as I rode by, I +yielded to the passing impulse, and touched one of the spotless shields +with the muzzle of my gun, I almost expected a grim warrior to start +from the lodge and resent my challenge. The master of the lodge spread +out a robe for me to sit upon, and the squaws set before us a large +wooden dish of buffalo meat. He had lit his pipe in the mean while, and +when it had been passed around, we commenced our dinner while he +continued to smoke. Gradually, however, five or six other chiefs came +in, and took their seats in silence. When we had finished, our host +asked a number of questions relative to the object of our journey, of +which I made no concealment; telling him simply that I had made a visit +to see the country, preparatory to the establishment of military posts +on the way to the mountains. Although this was information of the +highest interest to them, and by no means calculated to please them, it +excited no expression of surprise, and in no way altered the grave +courtesy of their demeanor. The others listened and smoked. I remarked, +that in taking the pipe for the first time, each had turned the stem +upward, with a rapid glance, as in offering to the Great Spirit, before +he put it in his mouth. A storm had been gathering for the past hour, +and some pattering drops in the lodge warned us that we had some miles +to our camp. An Indian had given Maxwell a bundle of dried meat, which +was very acceptable, as we had nothing; and, springing upon our horses, +we rode off at dusk in the face of a cold shower and driving wind. We +found our companions under some densely foliaged old trees, about three +miles up the river. Under one of them lay the trunk of a large +cottonwood, to leeward of which the men had kindled a fire, and we sat +here and roasted our meat in tolerable shelter. Nearly opposite was the +mouth of one of the most considerable affluents of the South fork, _la +Fourche aux Castors_, (Beaver fork,) heading off in the ridge to the +southeast. + +9th.--This morning we caught the first faint glimpse of the Rocky +mountains, about sixty miles distant. Though a tolerably bright day, +there was a slight mist, and we were just able to discern the snowy +summit of "Long's peak," ("_les deux oreilles_" of the Canadians,) +showing like a cloud near the horizon. I found it easily +distinguishable, there being a perceptible difference in its appearance +from the white clouds that were floating about the sky. I was pleased +to find that among the traders the name of "Long's peak" had been +adopted and become familiar in the country. In the ravines near this +place, a light brown sandstone made its first appearance. About 8, we +discerned several persons on horseback a mile or two ahead, on the +opposite side of the river. They turned in towards the river, and we +rode down to meet them. We found them to be two white men, and a +mulatto named Jim Beckwith, who had left St. Louis when a boy, and gone +to live with the Crow Indians. He had distinguished himself among them +by some acts of daring bravery, and had risen to the rank of chief, but +had now, for some years, left them. They were in search of a band of +horses that had gone off from a camp some miles above, in charge of Mr. +Chabonard. Two of them continued down the river, in search of the +horses, and the American turned back with us, and we rode on towards +the camp. About eight miles from our sleeping-place, we reached Bijou's +fork, an affluent of the right bank. Where we crossed it, a short +distance from the Platte, it has a sandy bed about four hundred yards +broad; the water in various small streams, a few inches deep. Seven +miles further brought us to the camp of some four or five whites, (New +Englanders, I believe,) who had accompanied Captain Wyeth to the +Columbia river, and were independent trappers. All had their squaws +with them, and I was really surprised at the number of little fat, +buffalo-fed boys that were tumbling about the camp, all apparently of +the same age, about three or four years old. They were encamped on a +rich bottom, covered with a profusion of rich grass, and had a large +number of fine-looking horses and mules. We rested with them a few +minutes, and in about two miles arrived at Chabonard's camp, on an +island in the Platte. On the heights above, we met the first Spaniard I +had seen in the country. Mr. Chabonard was in the service of Bent and +St. Vrain's company, and had left their fort some forty or fifty miles +above, in the spring, with boats laden with the furs of the last year's +trade. He had met the same fortune as the voyageurs on the North fork; +and, finding it impossible to proceed, had taken up his summer's +residence on this island, which he had named St. Helena. The river +hills appeared to be composed entirely of sand, and the Platte had lost +the muddy character of its waters, and here was tolerably clear. From +the mouth of the South fork, I had found it occasionally broken up by +small islands; and at the time of our journey, which was at a season of +the year when the waters were at a favorable stage, it was not +navigable for any thing drawing six inches water. The current was very +swift--the bed of the stream a coarse gravel. From the place at which +we had encountered the Arapahoes, the Platte had been tolerably well +fringed with timber, and the island here had a fine grove of very large +cottonwoods, under whose broad shade the tents were pitched. There was +a large drove of horses in the opposite prairie bottom; smoke was +rising from the scattered fires, and the encampment had quite a +patriarchal air. Mr. C. received us hospitably. One of the people was +sent to gather mint, with the aid of which he concocted very good +julep; and some boiled buffalo tongue, and coffee with the luxury of +sugar, were soon set before us. The people in his employ were generally +Spaniards, and among them I saw a young Spanish woman from Taos, whom I +found to be Beckwith's wife. + +10th.--We parted with our hospitable host after breakfast the next +morning, and reached St. Vrain's fort, about forty-five miles from St. +Helena, late in the evening. This post is situated on the South fork of +the Platte, immediately under the mountains, about seventeen miles east +of Long's peak. It is on the right bank, on the verge of the upland +prairie, about forty feet above the river, of which the immediate +valley is about six hundred yards wide. The stream is divided into +various branches by small islands, among which it runs with a swift +current. The bed of the river is sand and gravel, the water very clear, +and here may be called a mountain-stream. This region appears to be +entirely free from the limestones and marls which give to the Lower +Platte its yellow and dirty color. The Black hills lie between the +stream and the mountains, whose snowy peaks glitter a few miles beyond. +At the fort we found Mr. St. Vrain, who received us with much kindness +and hospitality. Maxwell had spent the last two or three years between +this post and the village of Taos; and here he was at home, and among +his friends. Spaniards frequently came over in search of employment; +and several came in shortly after our arrival. They usually obtain +about six dollars a month, generally paid to them in goods. They are +very useful in a camp, in taking care of horses and mules; and I +engaged one, who proved to be an active, laborious man, and was of very +considerable service to me. The elevation of the Platte here is five +thousand four hundred feet above the sea. The neighboring mountains did +not appear to enter far the region of perpetual snow, which was +generally confined to the northern side of the peaks. On the southern, +I remarked very little. Here it appeared, so far as I could judge in +the distance, to descend but a few hundred feet below the summits. + +I regretted that time did not permit me to visit them; but the proper +object of my survey lay among the mountains farther north; and I looked +forward to an exploration of their snowy recesses with great pleasure. +The piney region of the mountains to the south was enveloped in smoke, +and I was informed had been on fire for several months. Pike's peak is +said to be visible from this place, about one hundred miles to the +southward; but the smoky state of the atmosphere prevented my seeing +it. The weather continued overcast during my stay here, so that I +failed in determining the latitude, but obtained good observations for +the time on the mornings of the 11th and 12th. An assumed latitude of +40° 22' 30" from the evening position of the 12th, enabled me to obtain +for a tolerably correct longitude, 105° 12' 12". + +12th.--The kindness of Mr. St. Vrain enabled me to obtain a couple of +horses and three good mules; and, with a further addition to our party +of the Spaniard whom I had hired, and two others, who were going to +obtain service at Laramie's fork, we resumed our journey at ten, on the +morning of the 12th. We had been able to procure nothing at the post in +the way of provision. An expected supply from Taos had not yet arrived, +and a few pounds of coffee was all that could be spared to us. In +addition to this we had dried meat enough for the first day; on the +next, we expected to find buffalo. From this post, according to the +estimate of the country, the fort at the mouth of Laramie's fork, which +was our next point of destination, was nearly due north, distant about +one hundred and twenty-five miles. + +For a short distance our road lay down the valley of the Platte, which +resembled a garden in the splendor of fields of varied flowers, which +filled the air with fragrance. The only timber I noticed consisted of +poplar, birch, cottonwood, and willow. In something less than three +miles we crossed Thompson's creek, one of the affluents to the left +bank of the South fork--a fine stream about sixty-five feet wide, and +three feet deep. Journeying on, the low dark line of the Black hills +lying between us and the mountains to the left, in about ten miles from +the fort, we reached _Cache à la Poudre_, where we halted to noon. This +is a very beautiful mountain-stream, about one hundred feet wide, +flowing with a full swift current over a rocky bed. We halted under the +shade of some cottonwoods, with which the stream is wooded +scatteringly. In the upper part of its course, it runs amid the wildest +mountain scenery, and, breaking through the Black hills, falls into the +Platte about ten miles below this place. In the course of our late +journey, I had managed to become the possessor of a very untractable +mule--a perfect vixen--and her I had turned over to my Spaniard. It +occupied us about half an hour to-day to get saddle upon her; but, once +on her back, Jose could not be dismounted, realizing the accounts given +of Mexican horses and horsemanship; and we continued our route in the +afternoon. + +At evening, we encamped on Crow creek, having traveled about +twenty-eight miles. None of the party were well acquainted with the +country, and I had great difficulty in ascertaining what were the names +of the streams we crossed between the North and South forks of the +Platte. This I supposed to be Cow creek. It is what is called a salt +stream, and the water stands in pools, having no continuous course. A +fine-grained sandstone made its appearance in the banks. The +observations of the night placed us in latitude 40° 42', longitude 104° +57' 49". The barometer at sunset was 25.231; attached thermometer at +66°. Sky clear, except in the east, with a light wind from the north. + +13th.--There being no wood here, we used last night the _bois de +vache_, which is very plentiful. At our camp this morning, the +barometer was at 25.235; the attached thermometer 60°. A few clouds +were moving through a deep-blue sky, with a light wind from the west. +After a ride of twelve miles, in a northerly direction, over a plain +covered with innumerable quantities of _cacti_, we reached a small +creek in which there was water, and where several herds of buffalo were +scattered about among the ravines, which always afford good pasturage. +We seem now to be passing along the base of a plateau of the Black +hills, in which the formation consists of marls, some of them white and +laminated; the country to the left rising suddenly, and falling off +gradually and uniformly to the right. In five or six miles of a +northeasterly course, we struck a high ridge, broken into conical +peaks, on whose summits large boulders were gathered in heaps. The +magnetic direction of the ridge is northwest and southeast, the +glittering white of its precipitous sides making it visible for many +miles to the south. It is composed of a soft earthy limestone and +marls, resembling that hereafter described in the neighborhood of the +Chimney rock, on the North fork of the Platte, easily worked by the +winds and rains, and sometimes moulded into very fantastic shapes. At +the foot of the northern slope was the bed of a creek, some forty feet +wide, coming, by frequent falls, from the bench above. It was shut in +by high, perpendicular banks, in which were strata of white laminated +marl. Its bed was perfectly dry, and the leading feature of the whole +region is one of remarkable aridity, and perfect freedom from moisture. +In about six miles we crossed the bed of another dry creek; and, +continuing our ride over high level prairie, a little before sundown we +came suddenly upon a beautiful creek, which revived us with a feeling +of delighted surprise by the pleasant contrast of the deep verdure of +its banks with the parched desert we had passed. We had suffered much +to-day, both men and horses, for want of water; having met with it but +once in our uninterrupted march of forty miles; and an exclusive meat +diet creates much thirst. + +"_Les bestias tienen mucha hambre_," said the young Spaniard, +inquiringly: "_y la gente tambien_," said I, "_amiago_, we'll camp +here." A stream of good and clear water ran winding about through the +little valley, and a herd of buffalo were quietly feeding a little +distance below. It was quite a hunter's paradise; and while some ran +down towards the band to kill one for supper, others collected _bois de +vache_ for a fire, there being no wood; and I amused myself with +hunting for plants among the grass. + +It will be seen, by occasional remarks on the geological formation, +that the constituents of the soil in these regions are good, and every +day served to strengthen the impression in my mind, confirmed by +subsequent observation, that the barren appearance of the country is +due almost entirely to the extreme dryness of the climate. Along our +route, the country had seemed to increase constantly in elevation. +According to the indication of the barometer, we were at our encampment +5,440 feet above the sea. + +The evening was very clear, with a fresh breeze from the south, 50° +east. The barometer at sunset was 24.862, the thermometer attached +showing 68°. I supposed this to be a fork of Lodge Pole creek, so far +as I could determine from our uncertain means of information. +Astronomical observations gave for the camp a longitude of 104° 39' +37", and latitude 41° 08' 31". + +14th.--The wind continued fresh from the same quarter in the morning; +the day being clear, with the exception of a few clouds in the horizon. +At our camp, at six o'clock, the height of the barometer was 24.830, +the attached thermometer 61°. Our course this morning was directly +north by compass, the variation being 15° or 16° easterly. A ride of +four miles brought us to Lodge Pole creek, which we had seen at the +mouth of the South fork; crossing on the way two dry streams, in +eighteen miles from our encampment of the past night, we reached a high +bleak ridge, composed entirely of the same earthy limestone and marl +previously described. I had never seen any thing which impressed so +strongly on my mind a feeling of desolation. The valley, through which +ran the waters of Horse creek, lay in view to the north, but too far to +have any influence on the immediate view. On the peak of the ridge +where I was standing, some seven hundred feet above the river, the wind +was high and bleak; the barren and arid country seemed as if it had +been swept by fires, and in every direction the same dull ash-colored +hue, derived from the formation, met the eye. On the summits were some +stunted pines, many of them dead, all wearing the same ashen hue of +desolation. We left the place with pleasure; and, after we had +descended several hundred feet, halted in one of the ravines, which, at +the distance of every mile or two, cut the flanks of the ridge with +little rushing streams, wearing something of a mountain character. We +had already begun to exchange the comparatively barren lands for those +of a more fertile character. Though the sandstone formed the broken +banks of the creek, yet they were covered with a thin grass; and the +fifty or sixty feet which formed the bottom land of the little stream +were clothed with very luxuriant grass, among which I remarked willow +and cherry, (_cerasus virginiana_,) and a quantity of gooseberry and +currant bushes occupied the greater part. + +The creek was three or four feet broad, and about six inches deep, with +a swift current of clear water, and tolerably cool. We had struck it +too low down to find the cold water, which we should have enjoyed +nearer to its sources. At two, P.M., the barometer was at 25•050, and +the attached thermometer 104°. A day of hot sunshine, with clouds, and +moderate breeze from the south. Continuing down the stream, in about +four miles we reached its mouth, at one of the main branches of Horse +creek. Looking back upon the ridge, whose direction appeared to be a +little to the north of east, we saw it seamed at frequent intervals +with the dark lines of wooded streams, affluents of the river that +flowed so far as we could see along its base. We crossed, in the space +of twelve miles from our noon halt, three or four forks of Horse creek, +and encamped at sunset on the most easterly. + +The fork on which we encamped appeared to have followed an easterly +direction up to this place; but here it makes a very sudden bend to the +north, passing between two ranges of precipitous hills, called, as I +was informed, Goshen's hole. There is somewhere in or near this +locality a place so called, but I am not certain that it was the place +of our encampment. Looking back upon the spot, at the distance of a few +miles to the northward, the hills appear to shut in the prairie, +through which runs the creek, with a semicircular sweep, which might +very naturally be called a hole in the bills. The geological +composition of the ridge is the same which constitutes the rock of the +Court-house and Chimney, on the North fork, which appeared to me a +continuation of this ridge. The winds and rains work this formation +into a variety of singular forms. The pass into Goshen's hole is about +two miles wide, and the hill on the western side imitates, in an +extraordinary manner, a massive fortified place, with a remarkable +fulness of detail. The rock is marl and earthy limestone, white, +without the least appearance of vegetation, and much resembles masonry +at a little distance; and here it sweeps around a level area two or +three hundred yards in diameter, and in the form of a half moon, +terminating on either extremity in enormous bastions. Along the whole +line of the parapets appear domes and slender minarets, forty or fifty +feet high, giving it every appearance of an old fortified town. On the +waters of White river, where this formation exists in great extent, it +presents appearances which excite the admiration of the solitary +voyageur, and form a frequent theme of their conversation when speaking +of the wonders of the country. Sometimes it offers the perfectly +illusive appearance of a large city, with numerous streets and +magnificent buildings, among which the Canadians never fail to see +their _cabaret_--and sometimes it takes the form of a solitary house, +with many large chambers, into which they drive their horses at night, +and sleep in these natural defences perfectly secure from any attack of +prowling savages. Before reaching our camp at Goshen's hole, in +crossing the immense detritus at the foot of the Castle rock, we were +involved amidst winding passages cut by the waters of the hill; and +where, with a breadth scarcely large enough for the passage of a horse, +the walls rise thirty and forty feet perpendicularly. This formation +supplies the discoloration of the Platte. At sunset, the height of the +mercurial column was 25.500, the attached thermometer 80°, and wind +moderate from S. 38° E. Clouds covered the sky with the rise of the +moon, but I succeeded in obtaining the usual astronomical observations, +which placed us in latitude 41° 40' 13", and longitude 104° 24' 36". + +15th.--At six this morning, the barometer was at 25.515 the thermometer +72°; the day was fine, with some clouds looking dark on the south, with +a fresh breeze from the same quarter. We found that in our journey +across the country we had kept too much to the eastward. This morning, +accordingly, we traveled by compass some 15 or 20 to the west of north, +and struck the Platte some thirteen miles below Fort Laramie. The day +was extremely hot, and among the hills the wind seemed to have just +issued from an oven. Our horses were much distressed, as we had +traveled hard; and it was with some difficulty that they were all +brought to the Platte, which we reached at one o'clock. In riding in +towards the river, we found the trail of our carts, which appeared to +have passed a day or two since. + +After having allowed our animals two hours for food and repose, we +resumed our journey, and towards the close of the day came in sight of +Laramie's fork. Issuing from the river hills, we came first in view of +Fort Platte, a post belonging to Messrs. Sybille, Adams & Co., situated +immediately in the point of land at the junction of Laramie with the +Platte. Like the post we had visited on the South fork, it was built of +earth, and still unfinished, being enclosed with walls (or rather +houses) on three of the sides, and open on the fourth to the river. A +few hundred yards brought us in view of the post of the American Fur +Company, called Fort John, or Laramie. This was a large post having +more the air of military construction than the fort at the mouth of the +river. It is on the left bank, on a rising ground some twenty-five feet +above the water; and its lofty walls, whitewashed and picketed, with +the large bastions at the angles, gave it quite an imposing appearance +in the uncertain light of evening. A cluster of lodges, which the +language told us belonged to Sioux Indians, was pitched under the +walls; and, with the fine background of the Black hills and the +prominent peak of Laramie mountain, strongly drawn in the clear light +of the western sky, where the sun had already set, the whole formed at +the moment a strikingly beautiful picture. From the company at St. +Louis I had letters for Mr. Boudeau, the gentleman in charge of the +post, by whom I was received with great hospitality and an efficient +kindness, which was invaluable to me during my stay in the country. I +found our people encamped on the bank, a short distance above the fort. +All were well; and, in the enjoyment of a bountiful supper, which +coffee and bread made luxurious to us, we soon forgot the fatigues of +the last ten days. + +16th.--I found that, during my absence, the situation of affairs had +undergone some change; and the usual quiet and somewhat monotonous +regularity of the camp had given place to excitement and alarm. The +circumstances which occasioned this change will be found narrated in +the following extract from the journal of Mr. Preuss, which commences +with the day of our separation on the South fork of the Platte: + +"6th.--We crossed the plateau or highland between the two forks in +about six hours. I let my horse go as slow as he liked, to indemnify us +both for the previous hardship; and about noon we reached the North +fork. There was no sign that our party had passed; we rode, therefore, +to some pine trees, unsaddled the hoses, and stretched our limbs on the +grass, awaiting the arrival of our company. After remaining here two +hours, my companion became impatient, mounted his horse again, and rode +off down the river to see if he could discover our people. I felt so +marode yet, that it was a horrible idea to me to bestride that saddle +again; so I lay still. I knew they could not come any other way, and +then my companion, one of the best men of the company, would not +abandon me. The sun went down--he did not come. Uneasy I did not feel, +but very hungry. I had no provisions, but I could make a fire; and as I +espied two doves in a tree, I tried to kill one. But it needs a better +marksman than myself to kill a little bird with a rifle. I made a fire, +however, lighted my pipe--this true friend of mine in every +emergency--lay down, and let my thoughts wander to the far east. It was +not many minutes after when I heard the tramp of a horse, and my +faithful companion was by my side. He had found the party, who had been +delayed by making their _cache_, about seven miles below. To the good +supper which he brought with him I did ample justice. He had forgotten +salt, and I tried the soldier's substitute in time of war, and used +gunpowder; but it answered badly--bitter enough, but no flavor of +kitchen salt. I slept well; and was only disturbed by two owls, which +were attracted by the fire, and took their place in the tree under +which we slept. Their music seemed as disagreeable to my companion as +to myself; he fired his rifle twice, and then they let us alone. + +"7th.--At about 10 o'clock, the party arrived; and we continued our +journey through a country which offered but little to interest the +traveler. The soil was much more sandy than in the valley below the +confluence of the forks, and the face of the country no longer +presented the refreshing green which had hitherto characterized it. The +rich grass was now found only in dispersed spots, on low grounds, and +on the bottom land of the streams. A long drought, joined to extreme +heat, had so parched up the upper prairies, that they were in many +places bald, or covered only with a thin growth of yellow and poor +grass. The nature of the soil renders it extremely susceptible to the +vicissitudes of the climate. Between the forks, and from their junction +to the Black hills, the formation consists of marl and a soft earthy +limestone, with granitic sandstone. Such a formation cannot give rise +to a sterile soil; and, on our return in September, when the country +had been watered by frequent rains, the valley of the Platte looked +like a garden; so rich was the verdure of the grasses, and so luxuriant +the bloom of abundant flowers. The wild sage begins to make its +appearance, and timber is so scarce that we generally made our fires of +the _bois de vache_. With the exception of now and then an isolated +tree or two, standing like a lighthouse on the river bank, there is +none to be seen. + +"8th.--Our road to-day was a solitary one. No game made its +appearance--not even a buffalo or a stray antelope; and nothing +occurred to break the monotony until about 5 o'clock, when the caravan +made a sudden halt. There was a galloping in of scouts and horsemen +from every side--a hurrying to and fro in noisy confusion; rifles were +taken from their covers; bullet pouches examined: in short, there was +the cry of 'Indians,' heard again. I had become so much accustomed to +these alarms, that they now made but little impression on me; and +before I had time to become excited, the newcomers were ascertained to +be whites. It was a large party of traders and trappers, conducted by +Mr. Bridger, a man well known in the history of the country. As the sun +was low, and there was a fine grass patch not far ahead, they turned +back and encamped for the night with us. Mr. Bridger was invited to +supper; and, after the _table-cloth_ was removed, we listened with +eager interest to an account of their adventures. What they had met, we +would be likely to encounter; the chances which had befallen them, +would probably happen to us; and we looked upon their life as a picture +of our own. He informed us that the condition of the country had become +exceedingly dangerous. The Sioux, who had been badly disposed, had +broken out into open hostility, and in the preceding autumn his party +had encountered them in a severe engagement, in which a number of lives +had been lost on both sides. United with the Cheyenne and Gros Ventre +Indians, they were scouring the upper country in war parties of great +force, and were at this time in the neighborhood of the _Red Buttes_, a +famous landmark, which was directly in our path. They had declared war +upon every living thing that should be found westward of that point; +though their main object was to attack a large camp of whites and Snake +Indians, who had a rendezvous in the Sweet Water valley. Availing +himself of his intimate knowledge of the country, he had reached +Laramie by an unusual route through the Black hills, and avoided coming +into contact with any of the scattered parties. This gentleman offered +his services to accompany us as far as the head of the Sweet Water; but +the absence of our leader, which was deeply regretted by us all, +rendered it impossible for us to enter upon such arrangements. In a +camp consisting of men whose lives had been spent in this country, I +expected to find every one prepared for occurrences of this nature; +but, to my great surprise, I found, on the contrary, that this news had +thrown them all into the greatest consternation; and, on every side, I +heard only one exclamation, '_Il n'y aura pas de vie pour nous_.' All +the night, scattered groups were assembled around the fires, smoking +their pipes, and listening with the greatest eagerness to exaggerated +details of Indian hostilities; and in the morning I found the camp +dispirited, and agitated by a variety of conflicting opinions. A +majority of the people were strongly disposed to return; but Clement +Lambert, with some five or six others, professed their determination to +follow Mr. Fremont to the uttermost limit of his journey. The others +yielded to their remonstrances, and somewhat ashamed of their +cowardice, concluded to advance at least as far as Laramie fork, +eastward of which they were aware no danger was to be apprehended. +Notwithstanding the confusion and excitement, we were very early on the +road, as the days were extremely hot, and we were anxious to profit by +the freshness of the morning. The soft marly formation, over which we +were now journeying, frequently offers to the traveler views of +remarkable and picturesque beauty. To several of these localities, +where the winds and the rain have worked the bluffs into curious +shapes, the voyageurs have given names according to some fancied +resemblance. One of these, called the _Court-house_, we passed about +six miles from our encampment of last night, and towards noon came in +sight of the celebrated _Chimney rock_. It looks, at this distance of +about thirty miles, like what it is called--the long chimney of a steam +factory establishment, or a shot tower in Baltimore. Nothing occurred +to interrupt the quiet of the day, and we encamped on the river, after +a march of twenty-four miles. Buffalo had become very scarce, and but +one cow had been killed, of which the meat had been cut into thin +slices, and hung around the carts to dry. + +"10th.--We continued along the same fine plainly beaten road, which the +smooth surface of the country afforded us, for a distance of six +hundred and thirty miles, from the frontiers of Missouri to the Laramie +fork. In the course of the day we met some whites, who were following +along in the train of Mr. Bridger; and, after a day's journey of +twenty-four miles, encamped about sunset at the Chimney rock. It +consists of marl and earthy limestone, and the weather is rapidly +diminishing its height, which is not more than two hundred feet above +the river. Travelers who visited it some years since, placed its height +at upwards of 500 feet. + +"11th.--The valley of the North fork is of a variable breadth, from one +to four, and sometimes six miles. Fifteen miles from the Chimney rock +we reached one of those places where the river strikes the bluffs, and +forces the road to make a considerable circuit over the uplands. This +presented an escarpment on the river of about nine hundred yards in +length, and is familiarly known as Scott's bluffs. We had made a +journey of thirty miles before we again struck the river, at a place +where some scanty grass afforded an insufficient pasturage to our +animals. About twenty miles from the Chimney rock we had found a very +beautiful spring of excellent and cold water; but it was in such a deep +ravine, and so small, that the animals could not profit by it, and we +therefore halted only a few minutes, and found a resting-place ten +miles further on. The plain between Scott's bluffs and Chimney rock was +almost entirely covered with drift-wood, consisting principally of +cedar, which, we were informed, had been supplied from the Black hills, +in a flood five or six years since. + +"12th.--Nine miles from our encampment of yesterday we crossed Horse +creek, a shallow stream of clear water, about seventy yards wide, +falling into the Platte on the right bank. It was lightly timbered, and +great quantities of drift-wood were piled up on the banks, appearing to +be supplied by the creek from above. After a journey of twenty-six +miles, we encamped on a rich bottom, which afforded fine grass to our +animals. Buffalo have entirely disappeared, and we live now upon the +dried meat, which is exceedingly poor food. The marl and earthy +limestone, which constituted the formation for several days past, had +changed, during the day, into a compact white or grayish-white +limestone, sometimes containing hornstone; and at the place of our +encampment this evening, some strata in the river hills cropped out to +the height of thirty or forty feet, consisting of fine-grained granitic +sandstone; one of the strata closely resembling gneiss. + +"13th.--To-day, about four o'clock, we reached Fort Laramie, where we +were cordially received. We pitched our camp a little above the fort, +on the bank of the Laramie river, in which the pure and clear water of +the mountain stream looked refreshingly cool, and made a pleasant +contrast to the muddy, yellow waters of the Platte." + +I walked up to visit our friends at the fort, which is a quadrangular +structure, built of clay, after the fashion of the Mexicans, who are +generally employed in building them. The walls are about fifteen feet +high, surmounted with a wooden palisade, and form a portion of ranges +of houses, which entirely surround a yard of about one hundred and +thirty feet square. Every apartment has its door and window,--all, of +course, opening on the inside. There are two entrances, opposite each +other, and midway the wall, one of which is a large and public +entrance; the other smaller and more private--a sort of postern gate. +Over the great entrance is a square tower with loopholes, and, like the +rest of the work, built of earth. At two of the angles, and diagonally +opposite each other, are large square bastions, so arranged as to sweep +the four faces of the walls. + +This post belongs to the American Fur Company, and, at the time of our +visit, was in charge of Mr. Boudeau. Two of the company's clerks, +Messrs. Galpin and Kellogg, were with him, and he had in the fort about +sixteen men. As usual, these had found wives among the Indian squaws; +and, with the usual accompaniment of children, the place had quite a +populous appearance. It is hardly necessary to say, that the object of +the establishment is trade with the neighboring tribes, who, in the +course of the year, generally make two or three visits to the fort. In +addition to this, traders, with a small outfit, are constantly kept +amongst them. The articles of trade consist, on the one side, almost +entirely of buffalo robes; and, on the other, of blankets, calicoes, +guns, powder and lead, with such cheap ornaments as glass beads, +looking-glasses, rings, vermilion for painting, tobacco, and +principally, and in spite of the prohibition, of spirits, brought into +the country in the form of alcohol, and diluted with water before sold. +While mentioning this fact, it is but justice to the American Fur +Company to state, that, throughout the country, I have always found +them strenuously opposed to the introduction of spirituous liquors. But +in the present state of things, when the country is supplied with +alcohol--when a keg of it will purchase from an Indian every thing he +possesses--his furs, his lodge, his horses, and even his wife and +children--and when any vagabond who has money enough to purchase a mule +can go into a village and trade against them successfully, without +withdrawing entirely from the trade, it is impossible for them to +discontinue its use. In their opposition to this practice, the company +is sustained, not only by their obligation to the laws of the country +and the welfare of the Indians, but clearly, also, on grounds of +policy; for, with heavy and expensive outfits, they contend at +manifestly great disadvantage against the numerous independent and +unlicensed traders, who enter the country from various avenues, from +the United States and from Mexico, having no other stock in trade than +some kegs of liquor, which they sell at the modest price of thirty-six +dollars per gallon. The difference between the regular trader and the +_coureur des bois_, (as the French call the itinerant or peddling +traders,) with respect to the sale of spirits, is here, as it always +has been, fixed and permanent, and growing out of the nature of their +trade. The regular trader looks ahead, and has an interest in the +preservation of the Indians, and in the regular pursuit of their +business, and the preservation of their arms, horses, and every thing +necessary to their future and permanent success in hunting: the +_coureur des bois_ has no permanent interest, and gets what he can, and +for what he can, from every Indian he meets, even at the risk of +disabling him from doing any thing more at hunting. + +The fort had a very cool and clean appearance. The great entrance, in +which I found the gentlemen assembled, and which was floored, and about +fifteen feet long, made a pleasant, shaded seat, through which the +breeze swept constantly; for this country is famous for high winds. In +the course of the conversation, I learned the following particulars, +which will explain the condition of the country. For several years the +Cheyennes and Sioux had gradually become more and more hostile to the +whites, and in the latter part of August, 1841, had had a rather severe +engagement with a party of sixty men, under the command of Mr. Frapp of +St. Louis. The Indians lost eight or ten warriors, and the whites had +their leader and four men killed. This fight took place on the waters +of Snake river; and it was this party, on their return under Mr. +Bridger, which had spread so much alarm among my people. In the course +of the spring, two other small parties had been cut off by the +Sioux--one on their return from the Crow nation, and the other among +the Black hills. The emigrants to Oregon and Mr. Bridger's party met +here, a few days before our arrival. Divisions and misunderstandings +had grown up among them; they were already somewhat disheartened by the +fatigue of their long and wearisome journey, and the feet of their +cattle had become so much worn as to be scarcely able to travel. In +this situation, they were not likely to find encouragement in the +hostile attitude of the Indians, and the new and unexpected +difficulties which sprang up before them. They were told that the +country was entirely swept of grass, and that few or no buffalo were to +be found on their line of route; and, with their weakened animals, it +would be impossible for them to transport their heavy wagons over the +mountains. Under these circumstances, they disposed of their wagons and +cattle at the forts; selling them at the prices they had paid in the +States, and taking in exchange coffee and sugar at one dollar a pound, +and miserable worn-out horses, which died before they reached the +mountains. Mr. Boudeau informed me that he had purchased thirty, and +the lower fort eighty head of fine cattle, some of them of the Durham +breed. Mr. Fitzpatrick, whose name and high reputation are familiar to +all who interest themselves in the history of this country, had reached +Laramie in company with Mr. Bridger; and the emigrants were fortunate +enough to obtain his services to guide them as far as the British post +of Fort Hall, about two hundred and fifty miles beyond the South Pass +of the mountains. They had started for this post on the 4th of July, +and immediately after their departure, a war party of three hundred and +fifty braves set out upon their trail. As their principal chief or +partisan had lost some relations in the recent fight, and had sworn to +kill the first whites on his path, it was supposed that their intention +was to attack the party, should a favorable opportunity offer; or, if +they were foiled in their principal object by the vigilance of Mr. +Fitzpatrick, content themselves with stealing horses and cutting off +stragglers. These had been gone but a few days previous to our arrival. + +The effect of the engagement with Mr. Frapp had been greatly to +irritate the hostile spirit of the savages; and immediately subsequent +to that event, the Gross Ventre Indians had united with the Oglallahs +and Cheyennes, and taken the field in great force--so far as I could +ascertain, to the amount of eight hundred lodges. Their object was to +make an attack on a camp of Snake and Crow Indians, and a body of about +one hundred whites, who had made a rendezvous somewhere in the Green +river valley, or on the Sweet Water. After spending some time in +buffalo hunting in the neighborhood of the Medicine Bow mountain, they +were to cross over to the Green river waters, and return to Laramie by +way of the South Pass and the Sweet Water valley. According to the +calculation of the Indians, Mr. Boudeau informed me they were somewhere +near the head of the Sweet Water. I subsequently learned that the party +led by Mr. Fitzpatrick were overtaken by their pursuers near Rock +Independence, in the valley of the Sweet Water; but his skill and +resolution saved them from surprise; and, small as his force was; they +did not venture to attack him openly. Here they lost one of their party +by an accident, and, continuing up the valley, they came suddenly upon +the large village. From these they met with a doubtful reception. Long +residence and familiar acquaintance had given to Mr. Fitzpatrick great +personal influence among them, and a portion of them were disposed to +let him pass quietly; but by far the greater number were inclined to +hostile measures; and the chiefs spent the whole of one night, during +which they kept the little party in the midst of them, in council, +debating the question of attacking them the next day; but the influence +of "the Broken Hand," as they called Mr. Fitzpatrick, (one of his hands +having been shattered by the bursting of a gun,) at length prevailed, +and obtained for them an unmolested passage; but they sternly assured +him that this path was no longer open, and that any party of the whites +which should hereafter be found upon it would meet with certain +destruction. From all that I have been able to learn, I have no doubt +that the emigrants owe their lives to Mr. Fitzpatrick. + +Thus it would appear that the country was swarming with scattered war +parties; and when I heard, during the day, the various contradictory +and exaggerated rumors which were incessantly repeated to them, I was +not surprised that so much alarm prevailed among my men. Carson, one of +the best and most experienced mountaineers, fully supported the opinion +given by Bridger of the dangerous state of the country, and openly +expressed his conviction that we could not escape without some sharp +encounters with the Indians. In addition to this, he made his will; and +among the circumstances which were constantly occurring to increase +their alarm, this was the most unfortunate; and I found that a number +of my party had become so much intimidated, that they had requested to +be discharged at this place. I dined to-day at Fort Platte, which has +been mentioned as situated at the junction of Laramie river with the +Nebraska. Here I heard a confirmation of the statements given above. +The party of warriors, which had started a few days since on the trail +of the emigrants, was expected back in fourteen days, to join the +village with which their families and the old men had remained. The +arrival of the latter was hourly expected; and some Indians have just +come in who had left them on the Laramie fork, about twenty miles +above. Mr. Bissonette, one of the traders belonging to Fort Platte, +urged the propriety of taking with me an interpreter and two or three +old men of the village; in which case, he thought there would be little +or no hazard in encountering any of the war parties The principal +danger was in being attacked before they should know who we were. + +They had a confused idea of the numbers and power of our people, and +dreaded to bring upon themselves the military force of the United +States. This gentleman, who spoke the language fluently, offered his +services to accompany me so far as the Red Buttes. He was desirous to +join the large party on its return, for purposes of trade, and it would +suit his views, as well as my own, to go with us to the Buttes; beyond +which point it would be impossible to prevail on a Sioux to venture, on +account of their fear of the Crows. From Fort Laramie to the Red +Buttes, by the ordinary road, is one hundred and thirty-five miles; +and, though only on the threshold of danger, it seemed better to secure +the services of an interpreter for the partial distance, than to have +none at all. + +So far as frequent interruption from the Indians would allow, we +occupied ourselves in making some astronomical calculations, and +bringing the general map to this stage of our journey; but the tent was +generally occupied by a succession of our ceremonious visitors. Some +came for presents, and others for information of our object in coming +to the country; now and then, one would dart up to the tent on +horseback, jerk off his trappings, and stand silently at the door, +holding his horse by the halter, signifying his desire to trade. +Occasionally a savage would stalk in with an invitation to a feast of +honor, a dog feast, and deliberately sit down and wait quietly until I +was ready to accompany him. I went to one; the women and children were +sitting outside the lodge, and we took our seats on buffalo robes +spread around. The dog was in a large pot over the fire, in the middle +of the lodge, and immediately on our arrival was dished up in large +wooden bowls, one of which was handed to each. The flesh appeared very +glutinous, with something of the flavor and appearance of mutton. +Feeling something move behind me, I looked round and found that I had +taken my seat among a litter of fat young puppies. Had I been nice in +such matters, the prejudices of civilization might have interfered with +my tranquillity; but, fortunately, I am not of delicate nerves, and +continued quietly to empty my platter. + +The weather was cloudy at evening, with a moderate south wind, and the +thermometer at six o'clock 85°. I was disappointed in my hope of +obtaining an observation of an occultation, which took place about +midnight. The moon brought with her heavy banks of clouds, through +which she scarcely made her appearance during the night. + +The morning of the 18th was cloudy and calm, the thermometer at six +o'clock at 64°. About nine, with a moderate wind from the west, a storm +of rain came on, accompanied by sharp thunder and lightning, which +lasted about an hour. During the day the expected village arrived, +consisting principally of old men, women, and children. They had a +considerable number of horses, and large troops of dogs. Their lodges +were pitched near the fort, and our camp was constantly crowded with +Indians of all sizes, from morning until night, at which time some of +the soldiers generally came to drive them all off to the village. My +tent was the only place which they respected. Here only came the chiefs +and men of distinction, and generally one of them remained to drive +away the women and children. The numerous strange instruments, applied +to still stranger uses, excited awe and admiration among them; and +those which I used in talking with the sun and stars they looked upon +with especial reverence, as mysterious things of "great medicine." + +Of the three barometers which I had brought with me thus far +successfully, I found that two were out of order, and spent the greater +part of the 19th in repairing them--an operation of no small difficulty +in the midst of the incessant interruptions to which I was subjected. +We had the misfortune to break here a large thermometer, graduated to +show fifths of a degree, which I used to ascertain the temperature of +boiling water, and with which I had promised myself some interesting +experiments in the mountains. We had but one remaining, on which the +graduation extended sufficiently high; and this was too small for exact +observations. During our stay here, the men had been engaged in making +numerous repairs, arranging pack-saddles, and otherwise preparing for +the chance of a rough road and mountain travel. All things of this +nature being ready, I gathered them around me in the evening, and told +them that "I had determined to proceed the next day. They were all well +armed. I had engaged the services of Mr. Bissonette as interpreter, and +had taken, in the circumstances, every possible means to ensure our +safety. In the rumors we had heard, I believed there was much +exaggeration; that they were men accustomed to this kind of life and to +the country; and that these were the dangers of every-day occurrence, +and to be expected in the ordinary course of their service. They had +heard of the unsettled condition of the country before leaving St. +Louis, and therefore could not make it a reason for breaking their +engagements. Still, I was unwilling to take with me, on a service of +some certain danger, men on whom I could not rely; and I had understood +that there were among them some who were disposed to cowardice, and +anxious to return; they had but to come forward at once, and state +their desire, and they would be discharged, with the amount due to them +for the time they had served." To their honor be it said, there was but +one among them who had the face to come forward and avail himself of +the permission. I asked him some few questions, in order to expose him +to the ridicule of the men, and let him go. The day after our +departure, he engaged himself to one of the forts, and set off with a +party to the Upper Missouri. I did not think that the situation of the +country justified me in taking our young companions, Messrs. Brant and +Benton, along with us. In case of misfortune, it would have been +thought, at the least, an act of great imprudence; and therefore, +though reluctantly, I determined to leave them. Randolph had been the +life of the camp, and the "_petit garçon_" was much regretted by the +men, to whom his buoyant spirits had afforded great amusement. They +all, however, agreed in the propriety of leaving him at the fort, +because, as they said, he might cost the lives of some of the men in a +fight with the Indians. + +21st.--A portion of our baggage, with our field-notes and observations, +and several instruments, were left at the fort. One of the gentlemen, +Mr. Galpin, took charge of a barometer, which he engaged to observe +during my absence; and I in trusted to Randolph, by way of occupation, +the regular winding up of two of my chronometers, which were among the +instruments left. Our observations showed that the chronometer which I +retained for the continuation of our voyage had preserved its rate in a +most satisfactory manner. As deduced from it, the longitude of Fort +Laramie is 7h 01' 21", and from Lunar distance 7h 01' 29"; giving for +the adopted longitude 104° 47' 43". Comparing the barometrical +observations made during our stay here, with those of Dr. G. Engleman +at St. Louis, we find for the elevation of the fort above the Gulf of +Mexico 4,470 feet. The winter climate here is remarkably mild for the +latitude; but rainy weather is frequent, and the place is celebrated +for winds, of which the prevailing one is the west. An east wind in +summer, and a south wind in winter, are said to be always accompanied +with rain. + +We were ready to depart; the tents were struck, the mules geared up, +and our horses saddled, and we walked up to the fort to take the +_stirrup cup_ with our friends in an excellent home-brewed preparation. +While thus pleasantly engaged, seated in one of the little cool +chambers, at the door of which a man had been stationed to prevent all +intrusion from the Indians, a number of chiefs, several of them +powerful, fine-looking men, forced their way into the room in spite of +all opposition. Handing me the following letter, they took their seats +in silence:-- + +"FORT PLATTE, Juillet 21, 1842. + +"Mr. Fremont:--Les chefs s'étant assemblés présentement me disent de +vous avertir de ne point vous mettre en route, avant que le parti de +jeunes gens, qui est en dehors, soient de retour. De plus, ils me +disent qu'ils sont très-certains qu'ils feront feu à la première +rencontre. Ils doivent être de retour dans sept à huit jours. Excusez +si je vous fais ces observations, mais il me semble qu'il est mon +devoir de vous avertir du danger. Même de plus, les chefs sont les +porteurs de ce billet, qui vous defendent de partir avant le retour des +guerriers. + +"Je suis votre obéissant serviteur, "JOSEPH BISSONETTE, "Par L.B. +CHARTRAIN. + + +"_Les noms de quelques chefs_.--Le Chapeau de Loutre, le Casseur de +Flèches, la Nuit Noir, la Queue de Boeuf." + +[Translation.] + +"FORT PLATTE, July 21, 1842. + +"MR. FREMONT:--The chiefs having assembled in council, have just told +me to warn you not to set out before the party of young men which is +now out shall have returned. Furthermore, they tell me that they are +very sure they will fire upon you as soon as they meet you. They are +expected back in seven or eight days. Excuse me for making these +observations, but it seems my duty to warn you of danger. Moreover, the +chiefs who prohibit your setting out before the return of the warriors +are the bearers of this note. + +"I am your obedient servant, + "JOSEPH BISSONETTE, + "By L.B. CHARTRAIN. + + +"_Names of some of the chiefs_.--The Otter Hat, the Breaker of Arrows, +the Black Night, the Bull's Tail." + +After reading this, I mentioned its purport to my companions; and, +seeing that all were fully possessed of its contents, one of the +Indians rose up, and, having first shaken hands with me, spoke as +follows: + +"You have come among us at a bad time. Some of our people have been +killed, and our young men, who are gone to the mountains, are eager to +avenge the blood of their relations, which has been shed by the whites. +Our young men are bad, and, if they meet you, they will believe that +you are carrying goods and ammunition to their enemies, and will fire +upon you. You have told us that this will make war. We know that our +great father has many soldiers and big guns, and we are anxious to have +our lives. We love the whites, and are desirous of peace. Thinking of +all these things, we have determined to keep you here until our +warriors return. We are glad to see you among us. Our father is rich, +and we expected that you would have brought presents to us--horses, +guns, and blankets. But we are glad to see you. We look upon your +coming as the light which goes before the sun; for you will tell our +great father that you have seen us, and that we are naked and poor, and +have nothing to eat; and he will send us all these things." He was +followed by others to the same effect. + +The observations of the savage appeared reasonable; but I was aware +that they had in view only the present object of detaining me, and were +unwilling I should go further into the country. In reply, I asked them, +through the interpretation of Mr. Boudeau, to select two or three of +their number to accompany us until we should meet their people--they +should spread their robes in my tent, and eat at my table, and on their +return I would give them presents in reward of their services. They +declined, saying, that there were no young men left in the village, and +that they were too old to travel so many days on horseback, and +preferred now to smoke their pipes in the lodge, and let the warriors +go on the war-path. Besides, they had no power over the young men, and +were afraid to interfere with them. In my turn I addressed them. + +"You say that you love the whites; why have you killed so many already +this spring? You say that you love the whites, and are full of many +expressions of friendship to us; but you are not willing to undergo the +fatigue of a few days' ride to save our lives. We do not believe what +you have said, and will not listen to you. Whatever a chief among us, +tells his soldiers to do, is done. We are the soldiers of the great +chief, your father. He has told us to come here and see this country, +and all the Indians, his children. Why should we not go? Before we +came, we heard that you had killed his people, and ceased to be his +children; but we came among you peaceably, holding out our hands. Now +we find that the stories we heard are not lies, and that you are no +longer his friends and children. We have thrown away our bodies, and +will not turn back. When you told us that your young men would kill us, +you did not know that our hearts were strong, and you did not see the +rifles which my young men carry in their hands. We are few, and you are +many, and may kill us all; but there will be much crying in your +villages, for many of your young men will stay behind, and forget to +return with your warriors from the mountains. Do you think that our +great chief will let his soldiers die, and forget to cover their +graves? Before the snows melt again, his warriors will sweep away your +villages as the fire does the prairie in the autumn. See! I have pulled +down my _white houses_, and my people are ready: when the sun is ten +paces higher, we shall be on the march. If you have any thing to tell +us, you will say it soon." + +I broke up the conference, as I could do nothing with these people; +and, being resolved to proceed, nothing was to be gained by delay. +Accompanied by our hospitable friends, we returned to the camp. We had +mounted our horses, and our parting salutations had been exchanged, +when one of the chiefs (the Bull's Tail) arrived to tell me that they +had determined to send a young man with us; and if I would point out +the place of our evening camp, he should join us there. "The young man +is poor," said he; "he has no horse, and expects you to give him one." +I described to him the place where I intended to encamp, and, shaking +hands, in a few minutes we were among the hills, and this last +habitation of whites shut out from our view. + +The road led over an interesting plateau between the North fork of the +Platte on the right, and Laramie river on the left. At the distance of +ten miles from the fort, we entered the sandy bed of a creek, a kind of +defile, shaded by precipitous rocks, down which we wound our way for +several hundred yards, to a place where, on the left bank, a very large +spring gushes with considerable noise and force out of the limestone +rock. It is called the "Warm Spring," and furnishes to the hitherto dry +bed of the creek a considerable rivulet. On the opposite side, a little +below the spring, is a lofty limestone escarpment, partially shaded by +a grove of large trees, whose green foliage, in contrast with the +whiteness of the rock, renders this a picturesque locality. The rock is +fossiliferous, and, so far as I was able to determine the character of +the fossils, belongs to the carboniferous limestone of the Missouri +river, and is probably the western limit of that formation. Beyond this +point I met with no fossils of any description. + +I was desirous to visit the Platte near the point where it leaves the +Black hills, and therefore followed this stream, for two or three +miles, to its mouth, where I encamped on a spot which afforded good +grass and _prele (equisetum)_ for our animals. Our tents having been +found too thin to protect ourselves and the instruments from the rains, +which in this elevated country are attended with cold and unpleasant +weather, I had procured from the Indians at Laramie a tolerably large +lodge, about eighteen feet in diameter, and twenty feet in height. Such +a lodge, when properly pitched, is, from its conical form, almost +perfectly secure against the violent winds which are frequent in this +region, and, with a fire in the centre, is a dry and warm shelter in +bad weather. By raising the lower part, so as to permit the breeze to +pass freely, it is converted into a pleasant summer residence, with the +extraordinary advantage of being entirely free from musquitoes, one of +which I never saw in an Indian lodge. While we were engaged very +unskilfully in erecting this, the interpreter, Mr. Bissonette, arrived, +accompanied by the Indian and his wife. She laughed at our awkwardness, +and offered her assistance, of which we were frequently afterwards +obliged to avail our selves, before the men acquired sufficient +expertness to pitch it without difficulty. From this place we had a +fine view of the gorge where the Platte issues from the Black hills, +changing its character abruptly from a mountain stream into a river of +the plains. Immediately around us the valley of the stream was +tolerably open; and at the distance of a few miles, where the river had +cut its way through the hills, was the narrow cleft, on one side of +which a lofty precipice of bright red rock rose vertically above the +low hills which lay between us. + +22d.--In the morning, while breakfast was being prepared, I visited +this place with my favorite man, Basil Lajeunesse. Entering so far as +there was footing for the mules, we dismounted, and, tying our animals, +continued our way on foot. Like the whole country, the scenery of the +river had undergone an entire change, and was in this place the most +beautiful I have ever seen. The breadth of the stream, generally near +that of its valley, was from two to three hundred feet, with a swift +current, occasionally broken by rapids, and the water perfectly clear. +On either side rose the red precipices, and sometimes overhanging, two +and four hundred feet in height, crowned with green summits, on which +were scattered a few pines. At the foot of the rocks was the usual +detritus, formed of masses fallen from above. Among the pines that grew +here, and on the occasional banks, were the cherry, (_cerasus +virginiana_,) currants, and grains de boeuf, (_shepherdia argentea_.) +Viewed in the sunshine of a pleasant morning, the scenery was of a most +striking and romantic beauty, which arose from the picturesque +disposition of the objects, and the vivid contrast of colors. I thought +with much pleasure of our approaching descent in the canoe through such +interesting places; and, in the expectation of being able at that time +to give to them a full examination, did not now dwell so much as might +have been desirable upon the geological formations along the line of +the river, where they are developed with great clearness. The upper +portion of the red strata consists of very compact clay, in which are +occasionally seen imbedded large pebbles. Below was a stratum of +compact red sandstone, changing a little above the river into a very +hard silicious limestone. There is a small but handsome open prairie +immediately below this place, on the left bank of the river, which +would be a good locality for a military post. There are some open +groves of cottonwood on the Platte. The small stream which comes in at +this place is well timbered with pine, and good building rock is +abundant. + +If it is in contemplation to keep open the communication with Oregon +territory, a show of military force in this country is absolutely +necessary; and a combination of advantages renders the neighborhood of +Fort Laramie the most suitable place, on the line of the Platte, for +the establishment of a military post. It is connected with the mouth of +the Platte and the Upper Missouri by excellent roads, which are in +frequent use, and would not in any way interfere with the range of the +buffalo, on which the neighboring Indians mainly depend for support. It +would render any posts on the Lower Platte unnecessary; the ordinary +communication between it and the Missouri being sufficient to control +the intermediate Indians. It would operate effectually to prevent any +such coalitions as are now formed among the Gros Ventres, Sioux, +Cheyennes, and other Indians, and would keep the Oregon road through +the valley of the Sweet Water and the South Pass of the mountains +constantly open. It lies at the foot of a broken and mountainous +region, along which, by the establishment of small posts in the +neighborhood of St. Vrain's fort, on the South fork of the Platte, and +Bent's fort, on the Arkansas, a line of communication would be formed, +by good wagon-roads, with our southern military posts, which would +entirely command the mountain passes, hold some of the most troublesome +tribes in check, and protect and facilitate our intercourse with the +neighboring Spanish settlements. The valleys of the rivers on which +they would be situated are fertile; the country, which supports immense +herds of buffalo, is admirably adapted to grazing; and herds of cattle +might be maintained by the posts, or obtained from the Spanish country, +which already supplies a portion of their provisions to the trading +posts mentioned above. + +Just as we were leaving the camp this morning, our Indian came up, and +stated his intention of not proceeding any further until he had seen +the horse which I intended to give him. I felt strongly tempted to +drive him out of the camp; but his presence appeared to give confidence +to my men, and the interpreter thought it absolutely necessary. I was +therefore obliged to do what he requested, and pointed out the animal, +with which he seemed satisfied, and we continued our journey. I had +imagined that Mr. Bissonette's long residence had made him acquainted +with the country; and, according to his advice, proceeded directly +forward, without attempting to gain the usual road. He afterwards +informed me that he had rarely ever lost sight of the fort; but the +effect of the mistake was to involve us for a day or two among the +hills, where, although we lost no time, we encountered an exceedingly +rough road. + +To the south, along our line of march to-day, the main chain of the +Black or Laramie hills rises precipitously. Time did not permit me to +visit them; but, from comparative information, the ridge is composed of +the coarse sandstone or conglomerate hereafter described. It appears to +enter the region of clouds, which are arrested in their course, and lie +in masses along the summits. An inverted cone of black cloud (cumulus) +rested during all the forenoon on the lofty peak of Laramie mountain, +which I estimated to be about two thousand feet above the fort, or six +thousand five hundred above the sea. We halted to noon on the _Fourche +Amere_, so called from being timbered principally with the _liard +amere_, (a species of poplar,) with which the valley of the little +stream is tolerably well wooded, and which, with large expansive +summits, grows to the height of sixty or seventy feet. + +The bed of the creek is sand and gravel, the water dispersed over the +broad bed in several shallow streams. We found here, on the right bank, +in the shade of the trees, a fine spring of very cold water. It will be +remarked that I do not mention, in this portion of the journey, the +temperature of the air, sand, springs, &c.--an omission which will be +explained in the course of the narrative. In my search for plants, I +was well rewarded at this place. + +With the change in the geological formation on leaving Fort Laramie, +the whole face of the country has entirely altered its appearance. +Eastward of that meridian, the principal objects which strike the eye +of a traveler are the absence of timber, and the immense expanse of +prairie, covered with the verdure of rich grasses, and highly adapted +for pasturage. Wherever they are not disturbed by the vicinity of man, +large herds of buffalo give animation to this country. Westward of +Laramie river, the region is sandy, and apparently sterile; and the +place of the grass is usurped by the _artemisia_ and other odoriferous +plants, to whose growth the sandy soil and dry air of this elevated +region seem highly favorable. + +One of the prominent characteristics in the face of the country is the +extraordinary abundance of the _artemisias_. They grow everywhere--on +the hills, and over the river bottoms, in tough, twisted, wiry clumps; +and, wherever the beaten track was left, they rendered the progress of +the carts rough and slow. As the country increased in elevation on our +advance to the west, they increased in size; and the whole air is +strongly impregnated and saturated with the odor of camphor and spirits +of turpentine which belongs to this plant. This climate has been found +very favorable to the restoration of health, particularly in cases of +consumption; and possibly the respiration of air so highly impregnated +with aromatic plants may have some influence. + +Our dried meat had given out, and we began to be in want of food; but +one of the hunters killed an antelope this evening, which afforded some +relief, although it did not go far among so many hungry men. At eight +o'clock at night, after a march of twenty-seven miles, we reached our +proposed encampment on the _Fer-à-Cheval_, or Horse-shoe creek. Here we +found good grass, with a great quantity of _prele_, which furnished +good food for our tired animals. This creek is well timbered, +principally with _liard amere_, and, with the exception of Deer creek, +which we had not yet reached, is the largest affluent of the right bank +between Laramie and the mouth of the Sweet Water. + +23d.--The present year had been one of unparalleled drought, and +throughout the country the water had been almost dried up. By availing +themselves of the annual rise, the traders had invariably succeeded in +carrying their furs to the Missouri; but this season, as has already +been mentioned, on both forks of the Platte they had entirely failed. +The greater number of the springs, and many of the streams, which made +halting places for the _voyageurs_, had been dried up. Everywhere the +soil looked parched and burnt, the scanty yellow grass crisped under +the foot, and even the hardest plants were destroyed by want of +moisture. I think it necessary to mention this fact, because to the +rapid evaporation in such an elevated region, nearly five thousand feet +above the sea, almost wholly unprotected by timber, should be +attributed much of the sterile appearance of the country, in the +destruction of vegetation, and the numerous saline efflorescences which +covered the ground. Such I afterwards found to be the case. + +I was informed that the roving villages of Indians and travelers had +never met with difficulty in finding abundance of grass for their +horses; and now it was after great search that we were able to find a +scanty patch of grass sufficient to keep them from sinking; and in the +course of a day or two they began to suffer very much. We found none +to-day at noon; and, in the course of our search on the Platte, came to +a grove of cottonwood, where some Indian village had recently encamped. +Boughs of the cottonwood yet green covered the ground, which the +Indians had cut down to feed their horses upon. It is only in the +winter that recourse is had to this means of sustaining them; and their +resort to it at this time was a striking evidence of the state of the +country. We followed their example, and turned our horses into a grove +of young poplars. This began to present itself as a very serious evil, +for on our animals depended altogether the further prosecution of our +journey. + +Shortly after we had left this place, the scouts came galloping in with +the alarm of Indians. We turned in immediately towards the river, which +here had a steep, high bank, where we formed with the carts a very +close barricade, resting on the river, within which the animals were +strongly hobbled and picketed. The guns were discharged and reloaded, +and men thrown forward under cover of the bank, in the direction by +which the Indians were expected. Our interpreter, who, with the Indian, +had gone to meet them, came in, in about ten minutes, accompanied by +two Sioux. They looked sulky, and we could obtain from them only some +confused information. We learned that they belonged to the party which +had been on the trail of the emigrants, whom they had overtaken at Rock +Independence, on the Sweet Water. Here the party had disagreed, and +came nigh fighting among themselves. One portion were desirous of +attacking the whites, but the others were opposed to it; and finally +they had broken up into small bands, and dispersed over the country. +The greatest portion of them had gone over into the territory of the +Crows, and intended to return by way of the Wind River valley, in the +hope of being able to fall upon some small parties of Crow Indians. The +remainder were returning down the Platte, in scattered parties of ten +and twenty; and those whom we had encountered belonged to those who had +advocated an attack on the emigrants. Several of the men suggested +shooting them on the spot; but I promptly discountenanced any such +proceeding. They further informed me that buffalo were very scarce, and +little or no grass to be found. There had been no rain, and innumerable +quantities of grasshoppers had destroyed the grass. The insects had +been so numerous since leaving Fort Laramie, that the ground seemed +alive with them; and in walking, a little moving cloud preceded our +footsteps. This was bad news. No grass, no buffalo--food for neither +horse nor man. I gave them some plugs of tobacco, and they went off, +apparently well satisfied to be clear of us; for my men did not look +upon them very lovingly, and they glanced suspiciously at our warlike +preparations, and the little ring of rifles which surrounded them. They +were evidently in a bad humor, and shot one of their horses when they +had left us a short distance. + +We continued our march; and after a journey of about twenty-one miles, +encamped on the Platte. During the day, I had occasionally remarked +among the hills the _psoralea esculenta_, the bread root of the +Indians. The Sioux use this root very extensively, and I have +frequently met with it among them, cut into thin slices and dried. In +the course of the evening we were visited by six Indians, who told us +that a large party was encamped a few miles above. Astronomical +observations placed us in longitude 104° 59' 59", and latitude 42° 29' +25". + +We made the next day twenty-two miles, and encamped on the right bank +of the Platte, where a handsome meadow afforded tolerably good grass. +There were the remains of an old fort here, thrown up in some sudden +emergency, and on the opposite side was a picturesque bluff of +ferruginous sandstone. There was a handsome grove a little above, and +scattered groups of trees bordered the river. Buffalo made their +appearance this afternoon, and the hunters came in, shortly after we +had encamped, with three fine cows. The night was fine, and +observations gave for the latitude of the camp, 42° 47' 40". + +25th.--We made but thirteen miles this day, and encamped about noon in +a pleasant grove on the right bank. Low scaffolds were erected, upon +which the meat was laid, cut up into thin strips, and small fires +kindled below. Our object was to profit by the vicinity of the buffalo, +to lay in a stock of provisions for ten or fifteen days. In the course +of the afternoon the hunters brought in five or six cows, and all hands +were kept busily employed in preparing the meat, to the drying of which +the guard attended during the night. Our people had recovered their +gayety, and the busy figures around the blazing fires gave a +picturesque air to the camp. A very serious accident occurred this +morning, in the breaking of one of the barometers. These had been the +object of my constant solicitude, and, as I had intended them +principally for mountain service, I had used them as seldom as +possible, taking them always down at night, and on the occurrence of +storms, in order to lessen the chances of being broken. I was reduced +to one, a standard barometer of Troughton's construction. This I +determined to preserve, if possible. The latitude is 42° 51' 35", and +by a mean of the results from chronometer and lunar distances, the +adopted longitude of this camp is 105° 50' 45". + +26th.--Early this morning we were again in motion. We had a stock of +provisions for fifteen days carefully stored away in the carts, and +this I resolved should only be encroached upon when our rifles should +fail to procure us present support. I determined to reach the +mountains, if it were in any way possible. In the mean time, buffalo +were plenty. In six miles from our encampment (which, by way of +distinction, we shall call Dried Meat camp) we crossed a handsome +stream, called _La Fourche Boisce_. It is well timbered, and, among the +flowers in bloom on its banks, I remarked several _asters_. + +Five miles further, we made our noon halt on the banks of the Platte, +in the shade of some cottonwoods. There were here, as generally now +along the river, thickets of _hippophæ_, the _grains de boeuf_ of the +country. They were of two kinds--one bearing a red berry, (the +_shepherdia argentea_ of Nuttall;) the other a yellow berry, of which +the Tartars are said to make a kind of rob. + +By a meridian observation, the latitude of the place was 42° 50' 08". +It was my daily practice to take observations of the sun's meridian +altitude; and why they are not given, will appear in the sequel. Eight +miles further we reached the mouth of Deer creek, where we encamped. +Here was abundance of rich grass, and our animals were compensated for +past privations. This stream was at this time twenty feet broad, and +well timbered with cottonwood of an uncommon size. It is the largest +tributary of the Platte, between the mouth of the Sweet Water and the +Laramie. Our astronomical observations gave for the mouth of the stream +a longitude of 106° 08' 24", and latitude 42° 52' 24". + +27th.--Nothing worthy of mention occurred on this day; we traveled +later than usual, having spent some time searching for grass, crossing +and recrossing the river before we could find a sufficient quantity for +our animals. Towards dusk we encamped among some artemisia bushes, two +and three feet in height, where some scattered patches of short tough +grass afforded a scanty supply. In crossing, we had occasion to observe +that the river was frequently too deep to be forded, though we always +succeeded in finding a place where the water did not enter the carts. +The stream continued very clear, with two or three hundred feet breadth +of water, and the sandy bed and banks were frequently covered with +large round pebbles. We had traveled this day twenty-seven miles. The +main chain of the Black hills was here only about seven miles to the +south, on the right bank of the river, rising abruptly to the height of +eight and twelve hundred feet. Patches of green grass in the ravines on +the steep sides marked the presence of springs, and the summits were +clad with pines. + +28th.--In two miles from our encampment, we reached the place where the +regular road crosses the Platte. There was two hundred feet breadth of +water at this time in the bed, which has a variable width of eight to +fifteen hundred feet. The channels were generally three feet deep, and +there were large angular rocks on the bottom, which made the ford in +some places a little difficult. Even at its low stages, this river +cannot be crossed at random, and this has always been used as the best +ford. The low stage of the water the present year had made it fordable +in almost any part of its course, where access could be had to its bed. + +For the satisfaction of travelers, I will endeavor to give some +description of the nature of the road from Laramie to this point. The +nature of the soil may be inferred from its geological formation. The +limestone at the eastern limit of this section is succeeded by +limestone without fossils, a great variety of sandstone, consisting +principally of red sandstone and fine conglomerates. The red sandstone +is argillaceous, with compact white gypsum or alabaster, very +beautiful. The other sandstones are gray, yellow, and ferruginous, +sometimes very coarse. The apparent sterility of the country must +therefore be sought for in other causes than the nature of the soil. +The face of the country cannot with propriety be called hilly. It is a +succession of long ridges, made by the numerous streams which come down +from the neighboring mountain range. The ridges have an undulating +surface, with some such appearance as the ocean presents in an ordinary +breeze. + +The road which is now generally followed through this region is +therefore a very good one, without any difficult ascents to overcome. +The principal obstructions are near the river, where the transient +waters of heavy rains have made deep ravines with steep banks, which +renders frequent circuits necessary. It will be remembered that wagons +pass this road only once or twice a year, which is by no means +sufficient to break down the stubborn roots of the innumerable +artemisia bushes. A partial absence of these is often the only +indication of the track; and the roughness produced by their roots in +many places gives the road the character of one newly opened in a +wooded country. This is usually considered the worst part of the road +east of the mountains; and, as it passes through an open prairie +region, may be much improved, so as to avoid the greater part of the +inequalities it now presents. + +From the mouth of the Kansas to the Green River valley west of the +mountains, there is no such thing as a mountain road on the line of +communication. + +We continued our way, and four miles beyond the ford Indians were +discovered again; and I halted while a party were sent forward to +ascertain who they were. In a short time they returned, accompanied by +a number of Indians of the Oglallah band of Sioux. From them we +received some interesting information. They had formed part of the +great village, which they informed us had broken up, and was on its way +home. The greater part of the village, including the Arapahoes, +Cheyennes, and Oglallahs, had crossed the Platte eight or ten miles +below the mouth of the Sweet Water, and were now behind the mountains +to the south of us, intending to regain the Platte by way of Deer +creek. They had taken this unusual route in search of grass and game. +They gave us a very discouraging picture of the country. The great +drought, and the plague of grasshoppers, had swept it so that scarce a +blade of grass was to be seen, and there was not a buffalo to be found +in the whole region. Their people, they further said, had been nearly +starved to death, and we would find their road marked by lodges, which +they had thrown away in order to move more rapidly, and by the +carcasses of the horses which they had eaten, or which had perished by +starvation. Such was the prospect before us. + +When he had finished the interpretation of these things, Mr. Bissonette +immediately rode up to me, and urgently advised that I should entirely +abandon the further prosecution of my exploration. "_Le meilleure avis +que je pourrais vous donner c'est de virer de suite_." "The best advice +I can give you, is to turn back at once." It was his own intention to +return, as we had now reached the point to which he had engaged to +attend me. In reply, I called up my men, and communicated to them fully +the information I had just received. I then expressed to them my fixed +determination to proceed to the end of the enterprise on which I had +been sent; but as the situation of the country gave me some reason to +apprehend that it might be attended with an unfortunate result to some +of us, I would leave it optional with them to continue with me or to +return. + +Among them were some five or six who I knew would remain. We had still +ten days' provisions; and should no game be found, when this stock was +expended, we had our horses and mules, which we could eat when other +means of subsistence failed. But not a man flinched from the +undertaking. "We'll eat the mules," said Basil Lajeunesse; and +thereupon we shook hands with our interpreter and his Indians, and +parted. With them I sent back one of my men, Dumes, whom the effects of +an old wound in the leg rendered incapable of continuing the journey on +foot, and his horse seemed on the point of giving out. Having resolved +to disencumber ourselves immediately of every thing not absolutely +necessary to our future operations, I turned directly in towards the +river, and encamped on the left bank, a little above the place where +our council had been held, and where a thick grove of willows offered a +suitable spot for the object I had in view. + +The carts having been discharged, the covers and wheels were taken off, +and, with the frames, carried into some low places, among the willows, +and concealed in the dense foliage in such a manner that the glitter of +the iron-work might not attract the observation of some straggling +Indian. In the sand, which had been blown up into waves among the +willows, a large hole was then dug, ten feet square and six feet deep. +In the mean time, all our effects had been spread out upon the ground, +and whatever was designed to be carried along with us separated and +laid aside, and the remaining part carried to the hole and carefully +covered up. As much as possible, all traces of our proceedings were +obliterated, and it wanted but a rain to render our _cache_ safe beyond +discovery. All the men were now set at work to arrange the pack-saddles +and make up the packs. + +The day was very warm and calm, and the sky entirely clear, except +where, as usual along the summits of the mountainous ridge opposite, +the clouds had congregated in masses. Our lodge had been planted, and, +on account of the heat, the ground-pins had been taken out, and the +lower part slightly raised. Near to it was standing the barometer, +which swung in a tripod frame; and within the lodge, where a small fire +had been built, Mr. Preuss was occupied in observing temperature of +boiling water. At this instant, and without any warning until it was +within fifty yards, a violent gust of wind dashed down the lodge, +burying under it Mr. Preuss and about a dozen men, who had attempted to +keep it from being carried away. I succeeded in saving the barometer, +which the lodge was carrying off with itself, but the thermometer was +broken. We had no others of a high graduation, none of those which +remained going higher than 135° Fahrenheit. Our astronomical +observations gave to this place, which we named _Cache_ camp, a +longitude of 106° 38' 26", latitude 42° 50' 53". + +29th.--All our arrangements having been completed, we left the +encampment at 7 o'clock this morning. In this vicinity the ordinary +road leaves the Platte, and crosses over to the Sweet Water river, +which it strikes near Rock Independence. Instead of following this +road, I had determined to keep the immediate valley of the Platte so +far as the mouth of the Sweet Water, in the expectation of finding +better grass. To this I was further prompted by the nature of my +instructions. To Mr. Carson was assigned the office of guide, as we had +now reached a part of the country with which, or a great part of which, +long residence had made him familiar. In a few miles we reached the Red +Buttes, a famous landmark in this country, whose geological composition +is red sandstone, limestone, and calcareous sandstone and pudding-stone. + +The river here cuts its way through a ridge; on the eastern side of it +are the lofty escarpments of red argillaceous sandstone, which are +called the Red Buttes. In this passage the stream is not much +compressed or pent up, there being a bank of considerable though +variable breadth on either side. Immediately on entering, we discovered +a band of buffalo. The hunters failed to kill any of them; the leading +hunter being thrown into a ravine, which occasioned some delay, and in +the mean time the herd clambered up the steep face of the ridge. It is +sometimes wonderful to see these apparently clumsy animals make their +way up and down the most broken precipices. We halted to noon before we +had cleared this passage, at a spot twelve miles distant from _Cache_ +camp, where we found an abundance of grass. So far, the account of the +Indians was found to be false. On the banks were willow and cherry +trees. The cherries were not yet ripe, but in the thickets were +numerous fresh tracks of the grizzly bear, which are very fond of this +fruit. The soil here is red, the composition being derived from the red +sandstone. About seven miles brought us through the ridge, in which the +course of the river is north and south. Here the valley opens out +broadly, and high walls of the red formation present themselves among +the hills to the east. We crossed here a pretty little creek, an +affluent of the right bank. It is well timbered with cottonwood in this +vicinity, and the absinthe has lost its shrub-like character, and +becomes small trees six and eight feet in height, and sometimes eight +inches in diameter. Two or three miles above this creek we made our +encampment, having traveled to-day twenty-five miles. Our animals fared +well here, as there is an abundance of grass. The river bed is made up +of pebbles, and in the bank, at the level of the water, is a +conglomerate of coarse pebbles, about the size of ostrich eggs, and +which I remarked in the banks of the Laramie fork. It is overlaid by a +soil of mixed clay and sand, six feet thick. By astronomical +observations, our position is in longitude 106° 54' 32", and latitude +42° 38'. + +30th.--After traveling about twelve miles this morning, we reached a +place where the Indian village had crossed the river. Here were the +poles of discarded lodges and skeletons of horses lying about. Mr. +Carson, who had never been higher up than this point on the river, +which has the character of being exceedingly rugged, and walled in by +precipices above, thought it advisable to encamp near this place, where +we were certain of obtaining grass, and to-morrow make our crossing +among the rugged hills to the Sweet Water river. Accordingly we turned +back and descended the river to an island near by, which was about +twenty acres in size, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. The +formation here I found highly interesting. Immediately at this island +the river is again shut up in the rugged hills, which come down to it +from the main ridge in a succession of spurs three or four hundred feet +high, and alternated with green level _prairillons_ or meadows, +bordered on the river banks with thickets of willow, and having many +plants to interest the traveler. The island lies between two of these +ridges, three or four hundred yards apart, of which that on the right +bank is composed entirely of red argillaceous sandstone, with thin +layers of fibrous gypsum. On the left bank, the ridge is composed +entirely of silicious pudding-stone, the pebbles in the numerous strata +increasing in size from the top to the bottom, where they are as large +as a man's head. So far as I was able to determine, these strata +incline to the northeast, with a dip of about 15°. This pudding-stone, +or conglomerate formation, I was enabled to trace through an extended +range of country, from a few miles east of the meridian of Fort Laramie +to where I found it superposed on the granite of the Rocky mountains, +in longitude 109° 00'. From its appearance, the main chain of the +Laramie mountain is composed of this rock; and in a number of places I +found isolated hills, which served to mark a former level which had +been probably swept away. + +These conglomerates are very friable, and easily decomposed; and I am +inclined to think this formation is the source from which was derived +the great deposite of sand and gravel which forms the surface rock of +the prairie country west of the Mississippi. + +Crossing the ridge of red sandstone, and traversing the little prairie +which lies to the southward of it, we made in the afternoon an +excursion to a place which we called the Hot Spring Gate. This place +has much the appearance of a gate, by which the Platte passes through a +ridge composed of a white and calcareous sandstone. The length of the +passage is about four hundred yards, with a smooth green prairie on +either side. Through this place, the stream flows with a quiet current, +unbroken by any rapid, and is about seventy yards wide between the +walls, which rise perpendicularly from the water. To that on the right +bank, which is the lower, the barometer gave a height of three hundred +and sixty feet. This place will be more particularly described +hereafter, as we passed through it on our return. + +We saw here numerous herds of mountain sheep, and frequently heard the +volley of rattling stones which accompanied their rapid descent down +the steep hills. This was the first place at which we had killed any of +these animals; and, in consequence of this circumstance, and of the +abundance of these sheep or goats, (for they are called by each name,) +we gave our encampment the name of Goat Island. Their flesh is much +esteemed by the hunters, and has very much the flavor of Alleghany +mountain sheep. I have frequently seen the horns of this animal three +feet long and seventeen inches in circumference at the base, weighing +eleven pounds. But two or three of these were killed by our party at +this place, and of these the horns were small. The use of these horns +seems to be to protect the animal's head in pitching down precipices to +avoid pursuing wolves--their only safety being in places where they +cannot be followed. The bones are very strong and solid, the marrow +occupying but a very small portion of the bone in the leg, about the +thickness of a rye straw. The hair is short, resembling the winter +color of our common deer, which it nearly approaches in size and +appearance. Except in the horns, it has no resemblance whatever to the +goat. The longitude of this place, resulting from chronometer and lunar +distances, and an occultation of Arietis, is 107° 13' 29", and the +latitude 42° 33' 27". One of our horses, which had given out, we left +to receive strength on the island, intending to take her, perhaps, on +our return. + +31st.--This morning we left the course of the Platte, to cross over to +the Sweet Water. Our way, for a few miles, lay up the sandy bed of a +dry creek, in which I found several interesting plants. Leaving this, +we wended our way to the summit of the hills, of which the peaks are +here eight hundred feet above the Platte, bare and rocky. A long and +gradual slope led from these hills to the Sweet Water, which we reached +in fifteen miles from Goat Island. I made an early encampment here, in +order to give the hunters an opportunity to procure a supply from +several bands of buffalo, which made their appearance in the valley +near by. The stream is about sixty feet wide, and at this time twelve +to eighteen inches deep, with a very moderate current. + +The adjoining prairies are sandy, but the immediate river bottom is a +good soil, which afforded an abundance of soft green grass to our +horses, and where I found a variety of interesting plants, which made +their appearance for the first time. A rain to-night made it +unpleasantly cold; and there was no tree here, to enable us to pitch +our single tent, the poles of which had been left at our _Cache camp_. +We had, therefore, no shelter except what was to be found under cover +of the _absinthe_ bushes, which grew in many thick patches, one or two +and sometimes three feet high. + + + +AUGUST. + + +1st.--The hunters went ahead this morning, as buffalo appeared +tolerably abundant, and I was desirous to secure a small stock of +provisions; and we moved about seven mules up the valley, and encamped +one mile below Rock Independence. This is an isolated granite rock, +about six hundred and fifty yards long, and forty in height. Except in +a depression of the summit, where a little soil supports a scanty +growth of shrubs, with a solitary dwarf pine, it is entirely bare. +Everywhere within six or eight feet of the ground, where the surface is +sufficiently smooth, and in some places sixty or eighty feet above, the +rock is inscribed with the names of travelers. Many a name famous in +the history of this country, and some well known to science, are to be +found mixed among those of the traders and travelers for pleasure and +curiosity, and of missionaries among the savages. Some of these have +been washed away by the rain, but the greater number are still very +legible. The position of this rock is in longitude 107° 56', latitude +42° 29' 36". We remained at our camp of August 1st until noon of the +next day, occupied in drying meat. By observation, the longitude of the +place is 107° 25' 23", latitude 42° 29' 56". + +2d.--Five miles above Rock Independence we came to a place called the +Devil's Gate, where the Sweet Water cuts through the point of a granite +ridge. The length of the passage is about three hundred yards, and the +width thirty-five yards. The walls of rock are vertical, and about four +hundred feet in height; and the stream in the gate is almost entirely +choked up by masses which have fallen from above. In the wall, on the +right bank, is a dike of trap-rock, cutting through a fine-grained gray +granite. Near the point of this ridge crop out some strata of the +valley formation, consisting of a grayish micaceous sandstone, and +fine-grained conglomerate, and marl. We encamped eight miles above the +Devil's Gate. There was no timber of any kind on the river, but good +fires were made of drift wood, aided by the _bois de vache_. + +We had to-night no shelter from the rain, which commenced with squalls +of wind about sunset. The country here is exceedingly picturesque. On +either side of the valley, which is five miles broad, the mountains +rise to the height of twelve and fifteen hundred or two thousand feet. +On the south side, the range appears to be timbered, and to-night is +luminous with fires--probably the work of the Indians, who have just +passed through the valley. On the north, broken and granite masses rise +abruptly from the green sward of the river, terminating in a line of +broken summits. Except in the crevices of the rock, and here and there +on a ledge or bench of the mountain, where a few hardy pines have +clustered together, these are perfectly bare and destitute of +vegetation. + +Among these masses, where there are sometimes isolated hills and +ridges, green valleys open in upon the river, which sweeps the base of +these mountains for thirty-six miles. Everywhere its deep verdure and +profusion of beautiful flowers is in pleasing contrast with the sterile +grandeur of the rock and the barrenness of the sandy plain, which, from +the right bank of the river, sweeps up to the mountain range that forms +its southern boundary. The great evaporation on the sandy soil of this +elevated plain, and the saline efflorescences which whiten the ground, +and shine like lakes reflecting in the sun, make a soil wholly unfit +for cultivation. + +3d.--We were early on the road the next morning, traveling along the +upper part of the valley, which is overgrown with _artemisia_. +Scattered about on the plain are occasional small isolated hills. One +of these which I have examined, about fifty feet high, consisted of +white clay and marl, in nearly horizontal strata. Several bands of +buffalo made their appearance to-day, with herds of antelope; and a +grizzly bear--the only one we encountered during the journey--was seen +scrambling up among the rocks. As we passed over a slight rise near the +river, we caught the first view of the Wind River mountains, appearing, +at this distance of about seventy miles, to be a low and dark +mountainous ridge. The view dissipated in a moment the pictures which +had been created in our minds, by many descriptions of travelers, who +have compared these mountains to the Alps in Switzerland, and speak of +the glittering peaks which rise in icy majesty amidst the eternal +glaciers nine or ten thousand feet into the region of eternal snows. +The nakedness of the river was relieved by groves of willows, where we +encamped at night, after a march of twenty-six miles; and numerous +bright-colored flowers had made the river bottom look gay as a garden. +We found here a horse, which had been abandoned by the Indians, because +his hoofs had been so much worn that he was unable to travel; and +during the night a dog came into the camp. + +4th.--Our camp was at the foot of the granite mountains, which we +climbed this morning to take some barometrical heights; and here among +the rocks was seen the first magpie. On our return, we saw one at the +mouth of the Platte river. We left here one of our horses, which was +unable to proceed farther. A few miles from the encampment we left the +river, which makes a bend to the south, and traversing an undulating +country, consisting of a grayish micaceous sandstone and fine-grained +conglomerates, struck it again, and encamped after a journey of +twenty-five miles. Astronomical observations placed us in latitude 42° +32' 30", and longitude 108° 30' 13". + +5th.--The morning was dark, with a driving rain, and disagreeably cold. +We continued our route as usual and the weather became so bad, that we +were glad to avail ourselves of the shelter offered by a small island, +about ten miles above our last encampment, which was covered with a +dense growth of willows. There was fine grass for our animals, and the +timber afforded us comfortable protection and good fires. In the +afternoon, the sun broke through the clouds for a short time, and the +barometer at 5 P.M. was 23.713, the thermometer 60°, with the wind +strong from the northwest. We availed ourselves of the fine weather to +make excursions in the neighborhood. The river, at this place, is +bordered by hills of the valley formation. They are of moderate height; +one of the highest peaks on the right bank being, according to the +barometer, one hundred and eighty feet above the river. On the left +bank they are higher. They consist of a fine white clayey sandstone, a +white calcareous sandstone, and coarse sandstone or pudding-stone. + +6th.--It continued steadily raining all day; but, notwithstanding, we +left our encampment in the afternoon. Our animals had been much +refreshed by their repose, and an abundance of rich, soft grass, which +had been much improved by the rains. In about three miles, we reached +the entrance of a _kanyon_, where the Sweet Water issues upon the more +open valley we had passed over. Immediately at the entrance, and +superimposed directly upon the granite, are strata of compact +calcareous sandstone and chert, alternating with fine white and +reddish-white, and fine gray and red sandstones. These strata dip to +the eastward at an angle of about 18°, and form the western limit of +the sandstone and limestone formations on the line of our route. Here +we entered among the primitive rocks. The usual road passes to the +right of this place; but we wound, or rather scrambled, our way up the +narrow valley for several hours. Wildness and disorder were the +character of this scenery. The river had been swollen by the late +rains, and came rushing through with an impetuous current, three or +four feet deep, and generally twenty yards broad. The valley was +sometimes the breadth of the stream, and sometimes opened into little +green meadows, sixty yards wide, with open groves of aspen. The stream +was bordered throughout with aspen, beech, and willow; and tall pines +grow on the sides and summits of the crags. On both sides the granite +rocks rose precipitously to the height of three hundred and five +hundred feet, terminating in jagged and broken pointed peaks; and +fragments of fallen rock lay piled up at the foot of the precipices. +Gneiss, mica slate, and a white granite, were among the varieties I +noticed. Here were many old traces of beaver on the stream; remnants of +dams, near which were lying trees, which they had cut down, one and two +feet in diameter. The hills entirely shut up the river at the end of +about five miles, and we turned up a ravine that led to a high prairie, +which seemed to be the general level of the country. Hence, to the +summit of the ridge, there is a regular and very gradual rise. Blocks +of granite were piled up at the heads of the ravines, and small bare +knolls of mica slate and milky quartz protruded at frequent intervals +on the prairie, which was whitened in occasional spots with small salt +lakes, where the water had evaporated, and left the bed covered with a +shining incrustation of salt. The evening was very cold, a northwest +wind driving a fine rain in our faces; and at nightfall we descended to +a little stream, on which we encamped, about two miles from the Sweet +Water. Here had recently been a very large camp of the Snake and Crow +Indians; and some large poles lying about afforded the means of +pitching a tent, and making other places of shelter. Our fires to-night +were made principally of the dry branches of the artemisia, which +covered the slopes. It burns quickly, and with a clear oily flame, and +makes a hot fire. The hills here are composed of hard, compact mica +slate, with veins of quartz. + +7th.--We left our encampment with the rising sun. As we rose from the +bed of the creek, the _snow_ line of the mountains stretched gradually +before us, the white peaks glittering in the sun. They had been hidden +in the dark weather of the last few days, and it had been _snowing_ on +them, while it _rained_ in the plains. We crossed a ridge, and again +struck the Sweet Water--here a beautiful, swift stream, with a more +open valley, timbered with beech and cottonwood. It now began to lose +itself in the many small forks which make its head; and we continued up +the main stream until near noon, when we left it a few miles, to make +our noon halt on a small creek among the hills, from which the stream +issues by a small opening. Within was a beautiful grassy spot, covered +with an open grove of large beech-trees, among which I found several +plants that I had not previously seen. + +The afternoon was cloudy, with squalls of rain; but the weather became +fine at sunset, when we again encamped on the Sweet Water, within a few +miles of the SOUTH PASS. The country over which we have passed to-day +consists principally of the compact mica slate, which crops out on all +ridges, making the uplands very rocky and slaty. In the escarpments +which border the creeks, it is seen alternating with a light-colored +granite, at an inclination of 45°; the beds varying in thickness from +two or three feet to six or eight hundred. At a distance, the granite +frequently has the appearance of irregular lumps of clay, hardened by +exposure. A variety of _asters_ may how be numbered among the +characteristic plants, and the artemisia continues in full glory; but +_cacti_ have become rare, and mosses begin to dispute the hills with +them. The evening was damp and unpleasant--the thermometer, at ten +o'clock, being at 36°, and the grass wet with a heavy dew. Our +astronomical observations placed this encampment in longitude 109° 21' +32", and latitude 42° 27' 15". + +Early in the morning we resumed our journey, the weather, still cloudy, +with occasional rain. Our general course was west, as I had determined +to cross the dividing ridge by a bridle-path among the country more +immediately at the foot of the mountains, and return by the wagon road, +two and a half miles to the south of the point where the trail crosses. + +About six miles from our encampment brought us to the summit. The +ascent had been so gradual, that, with all the intimate knowledge +possessed by Carson, who had made the country his home for seventeen +years, we were obliged to watch very closely to find the place at which +we had reached the culminating point. This was between two low hills, +rising on either hand fifty or sixty feet. When I looked back at them, +from the foot of the immediate slope on the western plain, their +summits appeared to be about one hundred and twenty feet above. From +the impression on my mind at this time, and subsequently on our return, +I should compare the elevation which we surmounted immediately at the +Pass, to the ascent of the Capitol hill from the avenue, at Washington. +It is difficult for me to fix positively the breadth of this Pass. From +the broken ground where it commences, at the foot of the Wind River +chain, the view to the southeast is over a champaign country, broken, +at the distance of nineteen miles, by the Table rock; which, with the +other isolated hills in its vicinity, seem to stand on a comparative +plain. This I judged to be its termination, the ridge recovering its +rugged character with the Table rock. It will be seen that it in no +manner resembles the places to which the term is commonly +applied--nothing of the gorge-like character and winding ascents of the +Alleghany passes in America; nothing of the Great St. Bernard and +Simplon passes in Europe. Approaching it from the mouth of the Sweet +Water, a sandy plain, one hundred and twenty miles long, conducts, by a +gradual and regular ascent, to the summit, about seven thousand feet +above the sea; and the traveler, without being reminded of any change +by toilsome ascents, suddenly finds himself on the waters which flow to +the Pacific ocean. By the route we had traveled, the distance from Fort +Laramie is three hundred and twenty miles, or nine hundred and fifty +from the mouth of the Kansas. + +Continuing our march, we reached, in eight miles from the Pass, the +Little Sandy, one of the tributaries of the Colorado, or Green river of +the Gulf of California. The weather had grown fine during the morning, +and we remained here the rest of the day, to dry our baggage and take +some astronomical observations. The stream was about forty feet wide, +and two or three deep, with clear water and a full swift current, over +a sandy bed. It was timbered with a growth of low bushy and dense +willows, among which were little verdant spots, which gave our animals +fine grass, and where I found a number of interesting plants. Among the +neighboring hills I noticed fragments of granite containing magnetic +iron. Longitude of the camp was 109° 37' 59", and latitude 42° 27' 34". + +9th.--We made our noon halt on Big Sandy, another tributary of Green +river. The face of the country traversed was of a brown sand of granite +materials, the _detritus_ of the neighboring mountain. Strata of the +milky quartz cropped out, and blocks of granite were scattered about, +containing magnetic iron. On Sandy creek the formation was of +parti-colored sand, exhibited in escarpments fifty to eighty feet high. +In the afternoon we had a severe storm of hail, and encamped at sunset +on the first New Fork. Within the space of a few miles, the Wind +mountains supply a number of tributaries to Green river, which are +called the New Forks. Near our camp were two remarkable isolated hills, +one of them sufficiently large to merit the name of mountain. They are +called the Two Buttes, and will serve to identify the place of our +encampment, which the observations of the evening placed in longitude +109° 58' 11", and latitude 42° 42' 46". On the right bank of the +stream, opposite to the large hill, the strata which are displayed +consist of decomposing granite, which supplies the brown sand of which +the face of the country is composed to a considerable depth. + +10th.--The air at sunrise is clear and pure, and the morning extremely +cold, but beautiful. A lofty snowy peak of the mountain is glittering +in the first rays of the sun, which have not yet reached us. The long +mountain wall to the east, rising two thousand feet abruptly from the +plain, behind which we see the peaks, is still dark, and cuts clear +against the glowing sky. A fog, just risen from the river, lies along +the base of the mountain. A little before sunrise, the thermometer was +at 35°, and at sunrise 33°. Water froze last night, and fires are very +comfortable. The scenery becomes hourly more interesting and grand, and +the view here is truly magnificent; but, indeed, it needs something to +repay the long prairie journey of a thousand miles. The sun has shot +above the wall, and makes a magical change. The whole valley is glowing +and bright, and all the mountain peaks are gleaming like silver. Though +these snow mountains are not the Alps, they have their own character of +grandeur and magnificence, and doubtless will find pens and pencils to +do them justice. In the scene before us, we feel how much wood improves +a view. The pines on the mountain seemed to give it much additional +beauty. I was agreeably disappointed in the character of the streams on +this side of the ridge. Instead of the creeks, which description had +led me to expect, I find bold, broad streams, with three or four feet +water, and a rapid current. The fork on which we are encamped is +upwards of a hundred feet wide, timbered with groves or thickets of the +low willow. We were now approaching the loftiest part of the Wind River +chain; and I left the valley a few miles from our encampment, intending +to penetrate the mountains as far as possible with the whole party. We +were soon involved in very broken ground, among long ridges covered +with fragments of granite. Winding our way up a long ravine, we came +unexpectedly in view of a most beautiful lake, set like a gem in the +mountains. The sheet of water lay transversely across the direction we +had been pursuing; and, descending the steep, rocky ridge, where it was +necessary to lead our horses, we followed its banks to the southern +extremity. Here a view of the utmost magnificence and grandeur burst +upon our eyes. With nothing between us and their feet to lessen the +effect of the whole height, a grand bed of snow-capped mountains rose +before us, pile upon pile, glowing in the bright light of an August +day. Immediately below them lay the lake, between two ridges, covered +with dark pines, which swept down from the main chain to the spot where +we stood. Here, where the lake glittered in the open sunlight, its +banks of yellow sand and the light foliage of aspen groves contrasted +well with the gloomy pines. "Never before," said Mr. Preuss, "in this +country or in Europe, have I seen such grand, magnificent rocks." I was +so much pleased with the beauty of the place, that I determined to make +the main camp here, where our animals would find good pasturage, and +explore the mountains with a small party of men. Proceeding a little +further, we came suddenly upon the outlet of the lake, where it found +its way through a narrow passage between low hills. Dark pines which +overhung the stream, and masses of rock, where the water foamed along, +gave it much romantic beauty. Where we crossed, which was immediately +at the outlet, it is two hundred and fifty feet wide, and so deep that +with difficulty we were able to ford it. Its bed was an accumulation of +rocks, boulders, and broad slabs, and large angular fragments, among +which the animals fell repeatedly. + +The current was very swift, and the water cold, and of a crystal +purity. In crossing this stream, I met with a great misfortune in +having my barometer broken. It was the only one. A great part of the +interest of the journey for me was in the exploration of these +mountains, of which so much had been said that was doubtful and +contradictory; and now their snowy peaks rose majestically before me, +and the only means of giving them authentically to science, the object +of my anxious solicitude by night and day, was destroyed. We had +brought this barometer in safety a thousand miles, and broke it almost +among the snow of the mountains. The loss was felt by the whole +camp--all had seen my anxiety, and aided me in preserving it. The +height of these mountains, considered by many hunters and traders the +highest in the whole range, had been a theme of constant discussion +among them; and all had looked forward with pleasure to the moment when +the instrument, which they believed to be as true as the sun, should +stand upon the summits, and decide their disputes. Their grief was only +inferior to my own. + +The lake is about three miles long, and of very irregular width, and +apparently great depth, and is the head-water of the third New Fork, a +tributary to Green river, the Colorado of the west. In the narrative I +have called it Mountain lake. I encamped on the north side, about three +hundred and fifty yards from the outlet. This was the most western +point at which I obtained astronomical observations, by which this +place, called Bernier's encampment, is made in 110° 08' 03" west +longitude from Greenwich, and latitude 43° 49' 49". The mountain peaks, +as laid down, were fixed by bearings from this and other astronomical +points. We had no other compass than the small ones used in sketching +the country; but from an azimuth, in which one of them was used, the +variation of the compass is 18° east. The correction made in our +field-work by the astronomical observations indicates that this is a +very correct observation. + +As soon as the camp was formed, I set about endeavoring to repair my +barometer. As I have already said, this was a standard cistern +barometer, of Troughton's construction. The glass cistern had been +broken about midway; but as the instrument had been kept in a proper +position, no air had found its way into the tube, the end of which had +always remained covered. I had with me a number of vials of tolerably +thick glass, some of which were of the same diameter as the cistern, +end I spent the day in slowly working on these, endeavoring to cut them +of the requisite length; but, as my instrument was a very rough file, I +invariably broke them. A groove was cut in one of the trees, where the +barometer was placed during the night, to be out of the way of any +possible danger, and in the morning I commenced again. Among the +powder-horns in the camp, I found one which was very transparent, so +that its contents could be almost as plainly seen as through glass. +This I boiled and stretched on a piece of wood to the requisite +diameter, and scraped it very thin, in order to increase to the utmost +its transparency. I then secured it firmly in its place on the +instrument, with strong glue made from a buffalo, and filled it with +mercury, properly heated. A piece of skin, which had covered one of the +vials, furnished a good pocket, which was well secured with strong +thread and glue, and then the brass cover was screwed to its place. The +instrument was left some time to dry; and when I reversed it, a few +hours after, I had the satisfaction to find it in perfect order; its +indications being about the same as on the other side of the lake +before it had been broken. Our success in this little incident diffused +pleasure throughout the camp; and we immediately set about our +preparations for ascending the mountains. + +As will be seen on reference to a map, on this short mountain chain are +the head-waters of four great rivers on the continent, namely: the +Colorado, Columbia, Missouri, and Platte rivers. It had been my design, +after ascending the mountains, to continue our route on the western +side of the range, and crossing through a pass at the northwestern end +of the chain, about thirty miles from our present camp, return along +the eastern slope, across the heads of the Yellowstone river, and join +on the line to our station of August 7, immediately at the foot of the +ridge. In this way, I should be enabled to include the whole chain, and +its numerous waters, in my survey; but various considerations induced +me, very reluctantly, to abandon this plan. + +I was desirous to keep strictly within the scope of my instructions, +and it would have required ten or fifteen additional days for the +accomplishment of this object; our animals had become very much worn +out with the length of the journey; game was very scarce; and, though +it does not appear in the course of the narrative, (as I have avoided +dwelling upon trifling incidents not connected with the objects of the +expedition,) the spirits of the men had been much exhausted by the +hardships and privations to which they had been subjected. Our +provisions had wellnigh all disappeared. Bread had been long out of the +question; and of all our stock, we had remaining two or three pounds of +coffee, and a small quantity of macaroni, which had been husbanded with +great care for the mountain expedition we were about to undertake. Our +daily meal consisted of dry buffalo meat, cooked in tallow; and, as we +had not dried this with Indian skill, part of it was spoiled; and what +remained of good, was as hard as wood, having much the taste and +appearance of so many pieces of bark. Even of this, our stock was +rapidly diminishing in a camp which was capable of consuming two +buffaloes in every twenty-four hours. These animals had entirely +disappeared; and it was not probable that we should fall in with them +again until we returned to the Sweet Water. + +Our arrangements for the ascent were rapidly completed. We were in a +hostile country, which rendered the greatest vigilance and +circumspection necessary. The pass at the north end of the mountain was +greatly infested by Blackfeet, and immediately opposite was one of +their forts, on the edge of a little thicket, two or three hundred feet +from our encampment. We were posted in a grove of beech, on the margin +of the lake, and a few hundred feet long, with a narrow _prairillon_ on +the inner side, bordered by the rocky ridge. In the upper end of this +grove we cleared a circular space about forty feet in diameter, and, +with the felled timber, and interwoven branches, surrounded it with a +breastwork five feet in height. A gap was left for a gate on the inner +side, by which the animals were to be driven in and secured, while the +men slept around the little work. It was half hidden by the foliage, +and garrisoned by twelve resolute men, would have set at defiance any +band of savages which might chance to discover them in the interval of +our absence. Fifteen of the best mules, with fourteen men, were +selected for the mountain party. Our provisions consisted of dried meat +for two days, with our little stock of coffee and some macaroni. In +addition to the barometer and thermometer, I took with me a sextant and +spyglass, and we had of course our compasses. In charge of the camp I +left Bernier, one of my most trustworthy men, who possessed the most +determined courage. + +12th.--Early in the morning we left the camp, fifteen in number, well +armed, of course, and mounted on our best mules. A pack-animal carried +our provisions, with a coffeepot and kettle, and three or four tin +cups. Every man had a blanket strapped over his saddle, to serve for +his bed, and the instruments were carried by turns on their backs. We +entered directly on rough and rocky ground; and, just after crossing +the ridge, had the good fortune to shoot an antelope. We heard the +roar, and had a glimpse of a waterfall as we rode along, and, crossing +in our way two fine streams, tributary to the Colorado, in about two +hours' ride we reached the top of the first row or range of the +mountains. Here, again, a view of the most romantic beauty met our +eyes. It seemed as if, from the vast expanse of uninteresting prairie +we had passed over, Nature had collected all her beauties together in +one chosen place. We were overlooking a deep valley, which was entirely +occupied by three lakes, and from the brink to the surrounding ridges +rose precipitously five hundred and a thousand feet, covered with the +dark green of the balsam pine, relieved on the border of the lake with +the light foliage of the aspen. They all communicated with each other, +and the green of the waters, common to mountain lakes of great depth, +showed that it would be impossible to cross them. The surprise +manifested by our guides when these impassable obstacles suddenly +barred our progress, proved that they were among the hidden treasures +of the place, unknown even to the wandering trappers of the region. +Descending the hill, we proceeded to make our way along the margin to +the southern extremity. A narrow strip of angular fragments of rock +sometimes afforded a rough pathway for our mules, but generally we rode +along the shelving side, occasionally scrambling up, at a considerable +risk of tumbling back into the lake. + +The slope was frequently 60°; the pines grew densely together and the +ground was covered with the branches and trunks of trees. The air was +fragrant with the odor of the pines; and I realized this delightful +morning the pleasure of breathing that mountain air which makes a +constant theme of the hunter's praise, and which now made us feel as if +we had all been drinking some exhilarating gas. The depths of this +unexplored forest were a place to delight the heart of a botanist. +There was a rich undergrowth of plants, and numerous gay-colored +flowers in brilliant bloom. We reached the outlet at length, where some +freshly-barked willows that lay in the water showed that beaver had +been recently at work. + +There were some small brown squirrels jumping about in the pines, and a +couple of large mallard ducks swimming about in the stream. + +The hills on this southern end were low, and the lake looked like a +mimic sea, as the waves broke on the sandy beach in the force of a +strong breeze. There was a pretty open spot, with fine grass for our +mules; and we made our noon halt on the beach, under the shade of some +large hemlocks. We resumed our journey after a halt of about an hour, +making our way up the ridge on the western side of the lake. In search +of smoother ground, we rode a little inland; and, passing through +groves of aspen, soon found ourselves again among the pines. Emerging +from these, we struck the summit of the ridge above the upper end of +the lake. + +We had reached a very elevated point, and in the valley below, and +among the hills, were a number of lakes of different levels; some two +or three hundred feet above others, with which they communicated by +foaming torrents. Even to our great height the roar of the cataracts +came up, and we could see them leaping down in lines of snowy foam. +From this scene of busy waters, we turned abruptly into the stillness +of a forest, where we rode among the open bolls of the pines, over a +lawn of verdant grass, having strikingly the air of cultivated grounds. +This led us, after a time, among masses of rock which had no vegetable +earth but in hollows and crevices though still the pine forest +continued. Towards evening we reached a defile, or rather a hole in the +mountains, entirely shut in by dark pine-covered rocks. + +A small stream, with scarcely perceptible current, flowed through a +level bottom of perhaps eighty yards width, where the grass was +saturated with water. Into this the mules were turned, and were neither +hobbled nor picketed during the night, as the fine pasturage took away +all temptation to stray; and we made our bivouac in the pines. The +surrounding masses were all of granite. While supper was being +prepared, I set out on an excursion in the neighborhood, accompanied by +one of my men. We wandered about among the crags and ravines until +dark, richly repaid for our walk by a fine collection of plants, many +of them in full bloom. Ascending a peak to find the place of our camp, +we saw that the little defile in which we lay communicated with the +long green valley of some stream, which, here locked up in the +mountains, far away to the south, found its way in a dense forest to +the plains. + +Looking along its upward course, it seemed to conduct, by a smooth +gradual slope, directly towards the peak, which, from long consultation +as we approached the mountain, we had decided to be the highest of the +range. Pleased with the discovery of so fine a road for the next day, +we hastened down to the camp, where we arrived just in time for supper. +Our table-service was rather scant; and we held the meat in our hands, +and clean rocks made good plates, on which we spread our macaroni. +Among all the strange places on which we had occasion to encamp during +our long journey, none have left so vivid an impression on my mind as +the camp of this evening. The disorder of the masses which surrounded +us--the little hole through which we saw the stars over head--the dark +pines where we slept--and the rocks lit up with the glow of our fires, +made a night-picture of very wild beauty. + +13th.--The morning was bright and pleasant, just cool enough to make +exercise agreeable, and we soon entered the defile I had seen the +preceding day. It was smoothly carpeted with soft grass, and scattered +over with groups of flowers, of which yellow was the predominant color. +Sometimes we were forced, by an occasional difficult pass, to pick our +way on a narrow ledge along the side of the defile, and the mules were +frequently on their knees; but these obstructions were rare, and we +journeyed on in the sweet morning air, delighted at our good fortune in +having found such a beautiful entrance to the mountains. This road +continued for about three miles, when we suddenly reached its +termination in one of the grand views which, at every turn, meet the +traveler in this magnificent region. Here the defile up which we had +traveled opened out into a small lawn, where, in a little lake, the +stream had its source. + +There were some fine _asters_ in bloom, but all the flowering plants +appeared to seek the shelter of the rocks, and to be of lower growth +than below, as if they loved the warmth of the soil, and kept out of +the way of the winds. Immediately at our feet, a precipitous descent +led to a confusion of defiles, and before us rose the mountains, as we +have represented them in the annexed view. It is not by the splendor of +far-off views, which have lent such a glory to the Alps, that these +impress the mind; but by a gigantic disorder of enormous masses, and a +savage sublimity of naked rock, in wonderful contrast with innumerable +green spots of a rich floral beauty, shut up in their stern recesses. +Their wildness seems well suited to the character of the people who +inhabit the country. + +I determined to leave our animals here, and make the rest of our way on +foot. The peak appeared so near, that there was no doubt of our +returning before night; and a few men were left in charge of the mules, +with our provisions and blankets. We took with us nothing but our arms +and instruments, and, as the day had become warm, the greater part left +our coats. Having made an early dinner, we started again. We were soon +involved in the most ragged precipices, nearing the central chain very +slowly, and rising but little. The first ridge hid a succession of +others; and when, with great fatigue and difficulty, we had climbed up +five hundred feet, it was but to make an equal descent on the other +side; all these intervening places were filled with small deep lakes, +which met the eye in every direction, descending from one level to +another, sometimes under bridges formed by huge fragments of granite, +beneath which was heard the roar of the water. These constantly +obstructed our path, forcing us to make long _détours_; frequently +obliged to retrace our steps, and frequently falling among the rocks. +Maxwell was precipitated towards the face of a precipice, and saved +himself from going over by throwing himself flat on the ground. We +clambered on, always expecting, with every ridge that we crossed, to +reach the foot of the peaks, and always disappointed, until about four +o'clock, when, pretty well worn out, we reached the shore of a little +lake, in which was a rocky island. We remained here a short time to +rest, and continued on around the lake, which had in some places a +beach of white sand, and in others was bound with rocks, over which the +way was difficult and dangerous, as the water from innumerable springs +made them very slippery. + +By the time we had reached the further side of the lake, we found +ourselves all exceedingly fatigued, and, much to the satisfaction of +the whole party, we encamped. The spot we had chosen was a broad flat +rock, in some measure protected from the winds by the surrounding +crags, and the trunks of fallen pines afforded us bright fires. Near by +was a foaming torrent, which tumbled into the little lake about one +hundred and fifty feet below us, and which, by way of distinction, we +have called Island lake. We had reached the upper limit of the piney +region; as, above this point, no tree was to be seen, and patches of +snow lay everywhere around us, on the cold sides of the rocks. The +flora of the region we had traversed since leaving our mules was +extremely rich, and, among the characteristic plants, the scarlet +flowers of the _dodecatheon dentatum_ everywhere met the eye, in great +abundance. A small green ravine, on the edge of which we were encamped, +was filled with a profusion of alpine plants, in brilliant bloom. From +barometrical observations, made during our three days' sojourn at this +place, its elevation above the Gulf of Mexico is 10,000 feet. During +the day, we had seen no sign of animal life; but among the rocks here, +we heard what was supposed to be the bleat of a young goat, which we +searched for with hungry activity, and found to proceed from a small +animal of a gray color, with short ears and no tail--probably the +Siberian squirrel. We saw a considerable number of them, and, with the +exception of a small bird like a sparrow, it is the only inhabitant of +this elevated part of the mountains. On our return, we saw, below this +lake, large flocks of the mountain-goat. We had nothing to eat +to-night. Lajeunesse, with several others, took their guns, and sallied +out in search of a goat; but returned unsuccessful. At sunset, the +barometer stood at 20.522; the attached thermometer 50°. Here we had +the misfortune to break our thermometer, having now only that attached +to the barometer. I was taken ill shortly after we had encamped, and +continued so until late in the night, with violent headache and +vomiting. This was probably caused by the excessive fatigue I had +undergone, and want of food, and perhaps, also, in some measure, by the +rarity of the air. The night was cold, as a violent gale from the north +had sprung up at sunset, which entirely blew away the heat of the +fires. The cold, and our granite beds, had not been favorable to sleep, +and we were glad to see the face of the sun in the morning. Not being +delayed by any preparation for breakfast, we set out immediately. + +On every side, as we advanced, was heard the roar of waters, and of a +torrent, which we followed up a short distance, until it expanded into +a lake about one mile in length. On the northern side of the lake was a +bank of ice, or rather of snow covered with a crust of ice. Carson had +been our guide into the mountains, and, agreeably to his advice, we +left this little valley, and took to the ridges again, which we found +extremely broken, and where we were again involved among precipices. +Here were ice-fields; among which we were all dispersed, seeking each +the best path to ascend the peak. Mr. Preuss attempted to walk along +the upper edge of one of these fields, which sloped away at an angle of +about twenty degrees; but his feet slipped from under him, and he went +plunging down the plain. A few hundred feet below, at the bottom, were +some fragments of sharp rock, on which he landed; and, though he turned +a couple of somersets, fortunately received no injury beyond a few +bruises. Two of the men, Clement Lambert and Descoteaux, had been taken +ill, and lay down on the rocks, a short distance below; and at this +point I was attacked with headache and giddiness, accompanied by +vomiting, as on the day before. Finding myself unable to proceed, I +sent the barometer over to Mr. Preuss, who was in a gap two or three +hundred yards distant, desiring him to reach the peak if possible, and +take an observation there. He found himself unable to proceed further +in that direction, and took an observation, where the barometer stood +at 19.401; attached thermometer 50°, in the gap. Carson, who had gone +over to him, succeeded in reaching one of the snowy summits of the main +ridge, whence he saw the peak towards which all our efforts had been +directed, towering eight or ten hundred feet into the air above him. In +the mean time, finding myself grow rather worse than better, and +doubtful how far my strength would carry me, I sent Basil Lajeunesse, +with four men, back to the place where the mules had been left. + +We were now better acquainted with the topography of the country, and I +directed him to bring back with him, if it were in any way possible, +four or five mules, with provisions and blankets. With me were Maxwell +and Ayer; and after we had remained nearly an hour on the rock, it +became so unpleasantly cold, though the day was bright, that we set out +on our return to the camp, at which we all arrived safely, straggling +in one after the other. I continued ill during the afternoon, but +became better towards sundown, when my recovery was completed by the +appearance of Basil and four men, all mounted. The men who had gone +with him had been too much fatigued to return, and were relieved by +those in charge of the horses; but in his powers of endurance Basil +resembled more a mountain-goat than a man. They brought blankets and +provisions, and we enjoyed well our dried meat and a cup of good +coffee. We rolled ourselves up in our blankets, and, with our feet +turned to a blazing fire, slept soundly until morning. + +15th.--It had been supposed that we had finished with the mountains; +and the evening before it had been arranged that Carson should set out +at daylight, and return to breakfast at the Camp of the Mules, taking +with him all but four or five men, who were to stay with me and bring +back the mules and instruments. Accordingly, at the break of day they +set out. With Mr. Preuss and myself remained Basil Lajeunesse, Clement +Lambert, Janisse, and Descoteaux. When we had secured strength for the +day by a hearty breakfast, we covered what remained, which was enough +for one meal, with rocks, in order that it might be safe from any +marauding bird, and, saddling our mules, turned our faces once more +towards the peaks. This time we determined to proceed quietly and +cautiously, deliberately resolved to accomplish our object if it were +within the compass of human means. We were of opinion that a long +defile which lay to the left of yesterday's route would lead us to the +foot of the main peak. Our mules had been refreshed by the fine grass +in the little ravine at the Island camp, and we intended to ride up the +defile as far as possible, in order to husband our strength for the +main ascent. Though this was a fine passage, still it was a defile of +the most rugged mountains known, and we had many a rough and steep +slippery place to cross before reaching the end. In this place the sun +rarely shone; snow lay along the border of the small stream which +flowed through it, and occasional icy passages made the footing of the +mules very insecure, and the rocks and ground were moist with the +trickling waters in this spring of mighty rivers. We soon had the +satisfaction to find ourselves riding along the huge wall which forms +the central summits of the chain. There at last it rose by our sides, a +nearly perpendicular wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet +above our heads in a serrated line of broken, jagged cones. We rode on +until we came almost immediately below the main peak, which I +denominated the Snow peak, as it exhibited more snow to the eye than +any of the neighboring summits. Here were three small lakes of a green +color, each, perhaps, of a thousand yards in diameter, and apparently +very deep. These lay in a kind of chasm; and, according to the +barometer, we had attained but a few hundred feet above the Island +lake. The barometer here stood at 20.450, attached thermometer 70°. + +We managed to get our mules up to a little bench about a hundred feet +above the lakes, where there was a patch of good grass, and turned them +loose to graze. During our rough ride to this place, they had exhibited +a wonderful surefootedness. Parts of the defile were filled with +angular, sharp fragments of rock, three or four and eight or ten feet +cube; and among these they had worked their way, leaping from one +narrow point to another, rarely making a false step, and giving us no +occasion to dismount. Having divested ourselves of every unnecessary +encumbrance, we commenced the ascent. This time, like experienced +travelers, we did not press ourselves, but climbed leisurely, sitting +down so soon as we found breath beginning to fail. At intervals we +reached places where a number of springs gushed from the rocks, and +about 1800 feet above the lakes came to the snow line. From this point +our progress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto I had worn a pair of +thick moccasins, with soles of _parflèche_, but here I put on a light, +thin pair, which I had brought for the purpose, as now the use of our +toes became necessary to a further advance. I availed myself of a sort +of comb of the mountain, which stood against the wall like a buttress, +and which the wind and the solar radiation, joined to the steepness of +the smooth rock, had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I +made my way rapidly. Our cautious method of advancing at the outset had +spared my strength; and, with the exception of a slight disposition to +headache, I felt no remains of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we +reached a point where the buttress was overhanging, and there was no +other way of surmounting the difficulty than by passing around one side +of it, which was the face of a vertical precipice of several hundred +feet. + +Putting hands and feet in the crevices between the blocks, I succeeded +in getting over it, and, when I reached the top, found my companions in +a small valley below. Descending to them, we continued climbing, and in +a short time reached the crest. I sprang upon the summit, and another +step would have precipitated me into an immense snow-field five hundred +feet below. To the edge of this field was a sheer icy precipice; and +then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped off for about a mile, until +it struck the foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a narrow crest, +about three feet in width, with an inclination of about 20°N. 51°E. As +soon as I had gratified the first feelings of curiosity, I descended, +and each man ascended in his turn; for I would only allow one at a time +to mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a breath +would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the snow +of the summit, and, fixing a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled the national +flag to wave in the breeze where never flag waved before. During our +morning's ascent, we had met no sign of animal life, except the small +sparrow-like bird already mentioned. A stillness the most profound and +a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly on the mind as the +great features of the place. Here, on the summit, where the stillness +was absolute, unbroken by any sound, and solitude complete, we thought +ourselves beyond the region of animated life; but while we were sitting +on the rock, a solitary bee (_bromus, the humble-bee_) came winging his +flight from the eastern valley, and lit on the knee of one of the men. + +It was a strange place, the icy rock and the highest peak of the Rocky +mountains, for a lover of warm sunshine and flowers; and we pleased +ourselves with the idea that he was the first of his species to cross +the mountain barrier--a solitary pioneer to foretell the advance of +civilization. I believe that a moment's thought would have made us let +him continue his way unharmed; but we carried out the law of this +country, where all animated nature seems at war; and, seizing him +immediately, put him in at least a fit place--in the leaves of a large +book, among the flowers we had collected on our way. The barometer +stood at 18.293, the attached thermometer at 44°; giving for the +elevation of this summit 13,570 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, which +may be called the highest flight of the bee. It is certainly the +highest known flight of that insect. From the description given by +Mackenzie of the mountains where he crossed them, with that of a French +officer still farther to the north, and Colonel Long's measurements to +the south, joined to the opinion of the oldest traders of the country, +it is presumed that this is the highest peak of the Rocky mountains. +The day was sunny and bright, but a slight shining mist hung over the +lower plains, which interfered with our view of the surrounding +country. On one side we overlooked innumerable lakes and streams, the +spring of the Colorado of the Gulf of California; and on the other was +the Wind River valley, where were the heads of the Yellowstone branch +of the Missouri; far to the north, we could just discover the snowy +heads of the _Trois Tetons_, where were the sources of the Missouri and +Columbia rivers; and at the southern extremity of the ridge, the peaks +were plainly visible, among which were some of the springs of the +Nebraska or Platte river. Around us, the whole scene had one main, +striking feature, which was that of terrible convulsion. Parallel to +its length, the ridge was split into chasms and fissures; between which +rose the thin lofty walls, terminated with slender minarets and +columns. According to the barometer, the little crest of the wall on +which we stood was three thousand five hundred and seventy feet above +that place, and two thousand seven hundred and eighty above the little +lakes at the bottom, immediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two Hills +(an astronomical station) bore south 3° east, which, with a bearing +afterwards obtained from a fixed position, enabled us to locate the +peak. The bearing of the _Trois Tetons_ was north 50° west, and the +direction of the central ridge of the Wind River mountains south 39° +east. The summit rock was gneiss, succeeded by sienitic gneiss. Sienite +and feldspar succeeded in our descent to the snow line, where we found +a feldspathic granite. I had remarked that the noise produced by the +explosion of our pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but was not +in the least prolonged, expiring almost instantaneously. + +Having now made what observations our means afforded, we proceeded to +descend. We had accomplished an object of laudable ambition, and beyond +the strict order of our instructions. We had climbed the loftiest peak +of the Rocky mountains, and looked down upon the snow a thousand feet +below; and, standing where never human foot had stood before, felt the +exultation of first explorers. It was about two o'clock when we left +the summit, and when we reached the bottom, the sun had already sunk +behind the wall, and the day was drawing to a close. It would have been +pleasant to have lingered here and on the summit longer; but we hurried +away as rapidly as the ground would permit, for it was an object to +regain our party as soon as possible, not knowing what accident the +next hour might bring forth. + +We reached our deposite of provisions at nightfall. Here was not the +inn which awaits the tired traveler on his return from Mont Blanc, or +the orange groves of South America, with their refreshing juices and +soft fragrant air; but we found our little _cache_ of dried meat and +coffee undisturbed. Though the moon was bright, the road was full of +precipices, and the fatigue of the day had been great. We therefore +abandoned the idea of rejoining our friends, and lay down on the rock, +and, in spite of the cold, slept soundly. + +16th.--We left our encampment with the daylight. We saw on our way +large flocks of the mountain-goat looking down on us from the cliffs. +At the crack of the rifle, they would bound off among the rocks, and in +a few minutes make their appearance on some lofty peak, some hundred or +a thousand feet above. It is needless to attempt any further +description of the country; the portion over which we traveled this +morning was rough as imagination could picture it, and to us seemed +equally beautiful. A concourse of lakes and rushing waters--mountains +of rocks naked and destitute of vegetable earth--dells and ravines of +the most exquisite beauty, all kept green and fresh by the great +moisture in the air, and sown with brilliant flowers, and everywhere +thrown around all the glory of most magnificent scenes,--these +constitute the features of the place, and impress themselves vividly on +the mind of the traveler. It was not until 11 o'clock that we reached +the place where our animals had been left, when we first attempted the +mountains on foot. Near one of the still burning fires we found a piece +of meat, which our friends had thrown away, and which furnished us a +mouthful--a very scanty breakfast. We continued directly on, and +reached our camp on the mountain lake at dusk. We found all well. +Nothing had occurred to interrupt the quiet since our departure, and +the fine grass and good cool water had done much to re-establish our +animals. All heard with great delight the order to turn our faces +homeward; and towards sundown of the 17th, we encamped again at the Two +Buttes. + +In the course of this afternoon's march, the barometer was broken past +remedy. I regretted it, as I was desirous to compare it again with Dr. +Engleman's barometers at St. Louis, to which mine were referred; but it +had done its part well, and my objects were mainly fulfilled. + +19th.--We left our camp on Little Sandy river about seven in the +morning, and traversed the same sandy, undulating country. The air was +filled with the turpentine scent of the various _artemisias_, which are +now in bloom, and, numerous as they are, give much gayety to the +landscape of the plains. At ten o'clock, we stood exactly on the divide +in the pass, where the wagon-road crosses; and, descending immediately +upon the Sweet Water, halted to take a meridian observation of the sun. +The latitude was 42° 24' 32". + +In the course of the afternoon we saw buffalo again, and at our evening +halt on the Sweet Water the roasted ribs again made their appearance +around the fires; and, with them, good humor, and laughter and song, +were restored to the camp. Our coffee had been expended, but we now +made a kind of tea from the roots of the wild-cherry tree. + +23d.--Yesterday evening we reached our encampment at Rock Independence, +where I took some astronomical observations. Here, not unmindful of the +custom of early travelers and explorers in our country, I engraved on +this rock of the Far West a symbol of the Christian faith. Among the +thickly inscribed names, I made on the hard granite the impression of a +large cross, which I covered with a black preparation of India-rubber, +well calculated to resist the influence of wind and rain. It stands +amidst the names of many who have long since found their way to the +grave, and for whom the huge rock is a giant gravestone. + +One George Weymouth was sent out to Maine by the Earl of Southampton, +Lord Arundel, and others; and in the narrative of their discoveries, he +says: "The next day we ascended in our pinnace that part of the river +which lies more to the westward, carrying with us a cross--a thing +never omitted by any Christian traveler--which we erected at the +ultimate end of our route." This was in the year 1605; and in 1842 I +obeyed the feeling of early travelers, and left the impression of the +cross deeply engraved on the vast rock one thousand miles beyond the +Mississippi, to which discoverers have given the national name of _Rock +Independence_. + +In obedience to my instructions to survey the river Platte, if +possible, I had determined to make an attempt at this place. The +India-rubber boat was filled with air, placed in the water, and loaded +with what was necessary for our operations; and I embarked with Mr. +Preuss and a party of men. When we had dragged our boat a mile or two +over the sands, I abandoned the impossible undertaking, and waited for +the arrival of the party, when we packed up our boat and equipage, and +at nine o'clock were again moving along on our land journey. We +continued along the valley on the right bank of the Sweet Water, where +the formation, as already described, consists of a grayish micaceous +sandstone, and fine-grained conglomerate, and marl. We passed over a +ridge which borders or constitutes the river hills of the Platte, +consisting of huge blocks, sixty or eighty feet cube, of decomposing +granite. The cement which united them was probably of easier +decomposition, and has disappeared and left them isolate, and separated +by small spaces. Numerous horns of the mountain-goat were lying among +the rocks; and in the ravines were cedars, whose trunks were of +extraordinary size. From this ridge we descended to a small open plain, +at the mouth of the Sweet Water, which rushed with a rapid current into +the Platte, here flowing along in a broad and apparently deep stream, +which seemed, from its turbid appearance, to be considerably swollen. I +obtained here some astronomical observations, and the afternoon was +spent in getting our boat ready for navigation the next day. + +24th.--We started before sunrise, intending to breakfast at Goat +island. I had directed the land party, in charge of Bernier, to proceed +to this place, where they were to remain, should they find no note to +apprize them of our having passed. In the event of receiving this +information, they were to continue their route, passing by certain +places which had been designated. Mr. Preuss accompanied me, and with +us were five of my best men, viz.: C. Lambert, Basil Lajeunesse, Honore +Ayot, Benoist, and Descoteaux. Here appeared no scarcity of water, and +we took on board, with various instruments and baggage, provisions for +ten or twelve days. We paddled down the river rapidly, for our little +craft was light as a duck on the water; and the sun had been some time +risen, when we heard before us a hollow roar, which we supposed to be +that of a fall, of which we had heard a vague rumor, but whose exact +locality no one had been able to describe to us. We were approaching a +ridge, through which the river passes by a place called "canon," +(pronounced _kanyon_,)--a Spanish word, signifying a piece of +artillery, the barrel of a gun, or any kind of tube; and which, in this +country, has been adopted to describe the passage of a river between +perpendicular rocks of great height, which frequently approach each +other so closely overhead as to form a kind of tunnel over the stream, +which foams along below, half choked up by fallen fragments. Between +the mouth of the Sweet Water and Goat island, there is probably a fall +of three hundred feet, and that was principally made in the canons +before us; as, without them, the water was comparatively smooth. As we +neared the ridge, the river made a sudden turn, and swept squarely down +against one of the walls of the canon, with great velocity, and so +steep a descent that it had, to the eye, the appearance of an inclined +plane. When we launched into this, the men jumped overboard, to check +the velocity of the boat; but were soon in water up to their necks, and +our boat ran on. But we succeeded in bringing her to a small point of +rocks on the right, at the mouth of the canon. Here was a kind of +elevated sand-beach, not many yards square, backed by the rocks; and +around the point the river swept at a right angle. Trunks of trees +deposited on jutting points, twenty or thirty feet above, and other +marks, showed that the water here frequently rose to a considerable +height. The ridge was of the same decomposing granite already +mentioned, and the water had worked the surface, in many places, into a +wavy surface of ridges and holes. We ascended the rocks to reconnoitre +the ground, and from the summit the passage appeared to be a continued +cataract, foaming over many obstructions, and broken by a number of +small falls. We saw nowhere a fall answering to that which had been +described to us as having twenty or twenty-five feet; but still +concluded this to be the place in question, as, in the season of +floods, the rush of the river against the wall would produce a great +rise; and the waters, reflected squarely off, would descend through the +passage in a sheet of foam, having every appearance of a large fall. +Eighteen years previous to this time, as I have subsequently learned +from himself, Mr. Fitzpatrick, somewhere above on this river, had +embarked with a valuable cargo of beaver. Unacquainted with the stream, +which he believed would conduct him safely to the Missouri, he came +unexpectedly into this canon, where he was wrecked, with the total loss +of his furs. It would have been a work of great time and labor to pack +our baggage across the ridge, and I determined to run the canon. We all +again embarked, and at first attempted to check the way of the boat; +but the water swept through with so much violence that we narrowly +escaped being swamped, and were obliged to let her go in the full force +of the current, and trust to the skill of the boatmen. The dangerous +places in this canon were where huge rocks had fallen from above, and +hemmed in the already narrow pass of the river to an open space of +three or four and five feet. These obstructions raised the water +considerably above, which was sometimes precipitated over in a fall; +and at other places, where this dam was too high, rushed through the +contracted opening with tremendous violence. Had our boat been made of +wood, in passing the narrows she would have been staved; but her +elasticity preserved her unhurt from every shock, and she seemed fairly +to leap over the falls. + +In this way we passed three cataracts in succession, where perhaps 100 +feet of smooth water intervened; and, finally, with a shout of pleasure +at our success, issued from our tunnel into the open day beyond. We +were so delighted with the performance of our boat, and so confident in +her powers, that we would not have hesitated to leap a fall of ten feet +with her. We put to shore for breakfast at some willows on the right +bank, immediately below the mouth of the canon; for it was now eight +o'clock, and we had been working since daylight, and were all wet, +fatigued, and hungry. While the men were preparing breakfast, I went +out to reconnoitre. The view was very limited. The course of the river +was smooth, so far as I could see; on both sides were broken hills; and +but a mile or two below was another high ridge. The rock at the mouth +of the canon was still the decomposing granite, with great quantities +of mica, which made a very glittering sand. + +We re-embarked at nine o'clock, and in about twenty minutes reached the +next canon. Landing on a rocky shore at its commencement, we ascended +the ridge to reconnoitre. Portage was out of the question. So far as we +could see, the jagged rocks pointed out the course of the canon, on a +winding line of seven or eight miles. It was simply a narrow, dark +chasm in the rock; and here the perpendicular faces were much higher +than in the previous pass, being at this end two to three hundred, and +further down, as we afterwards ascertained, five hundred feet in +vertical height. Our previous success had made us bold, and we +determined again to run the canon. Every thing was secured as firmly as +possible; and having divested ourselves of the greater part of our +clothing, we pushed into the stream. To save our chronometer from +accident, Mr. Preuss took it, and attempted to proceed along the shore +on the masses of rock, which in places were piled up on either side; +but, after he had walked about five minutes, every thing like shore +disappeared, and the vertical wall came squarely down into the water. +He therefore waited until we came up. An ugly pass lay before us. We +had made fast to the stern of the boat a strong rope about fifty feet +long; and three of the men clambered along among the rocks, and with +this rope let her slowly through the pass. In several places high rocks +lay scattered about in the channel; and in the narrows it required all +our strength and skill to avoid staving the boat on the sharp points. +In one of these, the boat proved a little too broad, and stuck fast for +an instant, while the water flew over us; fortunately, it was but for +an instant, as our united strength forced her immediately through. The +water swept overboard only a sextant and a pair of saddle-bags. I +caught the sextant as it passed by me; but the saddle-bags became the +prey of the whirlpools. We reached the place where Mr. Preuss was +standing, took him on board, and, with the aid of the boat, put the men +with the rope on the succeeding pile of rocks. We found this passage +much worse than the previous one, and our position was rather a bad +one. To go back was impossible; before us, the cataract was a sheet of +foam; and shut up in the chasm by the rocks, which, in some places, +seemed almost to meet overhead, the roar of the water was deafening. We +pushed off again; but, after making a little distance, the force of the +current became too great for the men on shore, and two of them let go +the rope. Lajeunesse, the third man, hung on, and was jerked +headforemost into the river from a rock about twelve feet high; and +down the boat shot like an arrow, Basil following us in the rapid +current, and exerting all his strength to keep in mid channel--his head +only seen occasionally like a black spot in the white foam. How far we +went, I do not exactly know; but we succeeded in turning the boat into +an eddy below. "'_Cre Dieu_," said Basil Lajeunesse, as he arrived +immediately after us, "_Je crois bien que j'ai nagé un demi mile_." He +had owed his life to his skill as a swimmer, and I determined to take +him and the two others on board, and trust to skill and fortune to +reach the other end in safety. We placed ourselves on our knees with +the short paddles in our hands, the most skilful boatman being at the +bow; and again we commenced our rapid descent. We cleared rock after +rock, and shot past fall after fall, our little boat seeming to play +with the cataract. We became flushed with success, and familiar with +the danger; and, yielding to the excitement of the occasion, broke +forth into a Canadian boat-song. Singing, or rather shouting; we dashed +along, and were, I believe, in the midst of the chorus, when the boat +struck a concealed rock immediately at the foot of a fall, which +whirled her over in an instant. Three of my men could not swim, and my +first feeling was to assist them, and save some of our effects; but a +sharp concussion or two convinced me that I had not yet saved myself. A +few strokes brought me into an eddy, and I landed on a pile of rocks on +the left side. Looking around, I saw that Mr. Preuss had gained the +shore on the same side, about twenty yards below; and a little climbing +and swimming soon brought him to my side. On the opposite side, against +the wall, lay the boat bottom up; and Lambert was in the act of saving +Descoteaux, whom he had grasped by the hair, and who could not swim; +"_Lâche pas_," said he, as I afterwards learned, "_lâche pas, cher +frère_." "_Crains pas_," was the reply: "_je m'en vais mourir avant que +de te lâcher_." Such was the reply of courage and generosity in this +danger. For a hundred yards below the current was covered with floating +books and boxes, bales and blankets, and scattered articles of +clothing; and so strong and boiling was the stream, that even our heavy +instruments, which were all in cases, kept on the surface, and the +sextant, circle, and the long black box of the telescope, were in view +at once. For a moment, I felt somewhat disheartened. All our +books--almost every record of the journey--our journals and registers +of astronomical and barometrical observations--had been lost in a +moment. But it was no time to indulge in regrets; and I immediately set +about endeavoring to save something from the wreck. Making ourselves +understood as well as possible by signs, (for nothing could be heard in +the roar of the waters,) we commenced our operations. Of every thing on +board, the only article that had been saved was my double-barreled gun, +which Descoteaux had caught and clung to with drowning tenacity. The +men continued down the river on the left bank. Mr. Preuss and myself +descended on the side we were on; and Lajeunesse, with a paddle in his +hand, jumped on the boat alone, and continued down the canon. She was +now light, and cleared every bad place with much less difficulty. In a +short time he was joined by Lambert, and the search was continued for +about a mile and a half, which was as far as the boat could proceed in +the pass. + +Here the walls were about five hundred feet high, and the fragments of +rocks from above had choked the river into a hollow pass, but one or +two feet above the surface. Through this and the interstices of the +rock, the water found its way. Favored beyond our expectations, all of +our registers had been recovered, with the exception of one of my +journals, which contained the notes and incidents of travel, and +topographical descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical +observations, principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and our +barometrical register west of Laramie. Fortunately, our other journals +contained duplicates of the most important barometrical observations +which had been taken in the mountains. These, with a few scattered +notes, were all that had been preserved of our meteorological +observations. In addition to these, we saved the circle; and these, +with a few blankets, constituted every thing that had been rescued from +the waters. + +The day was running rapidly away, and it was necessary to reach Goat +island, whither the party had preceded us, before night. In this +uncertain country, the traveler is so much in the power of chance, that +we became somewhat uneasy in regard to them. Should any thing have +occurred, in the brief interval of our separation, to prevent our +rejoining them, our situation would be rather a desperate one. We had +not a morsel of provisions--our arms and ammunition were gone--and we +were entirely at the mercy of any straggling party of savages, and not +a little in danger of starvation. We therefore set out at once in two +parties, Mr. Preuss and myself on the left, and the men on the opposite +side of the river. Climbing out of the canon, we found ourselves in a +very broken country, where we were not yet able to recognise any +locality. In the course of our descent through the canon, the rocks, +which at the upper end was of the decomposing granite, changed into a +varied sandstone formation. The hills and points of the ridges were +covered with fragments of a yellow sandstone, of which the strata were +sometimes displayed in the broken ravines which interrupted our course, +and made our walk extremely fatiguing. At one point of the canon the +red argillaceous sandstone rose in a wall of five hundred feet, +surmounted by a stratum of white sandstone; and in an opposite ravine a +column of red sandstone rose, in form like a steeple, about one hundred +and fifty feet high. The scenery was extremely picturesque, and +notwithstanding our forlorn condition, we were frequently obliged to +stop and admire it. Our progress was not very rapid. We had emerged +from the water half naked, and, on arriving at the top of the +precipice, I found myself with only one moccasin. The fragments of rock +made walking painful, and I was frequently obliged to stop and pull out +the thorns of the _cactus_, here the prevailing plant, and with which a +few minutes' walk covered the bottoms of my feet. From this ridge the +river emerged into a smiling prairie, and, descending to the bank for +water, we were joined by Benoist. The rest of the party were out of +sight, having taken a more inland route. We crossed the river +repeatedly--sometimes able to ford it, and sometimes swimming--climbed +over the ridges of two more canons, and towards evening reached the +cut, which we here named the Hot Spring gate. On our previous visit in +July, we had not entered this pass, reserving it for our descent in the +boat; and when we entered it this evening, Mr. Preuss was a few hundred +feet in advance. Heated with the long march, he came suddenly upon a +fine bold spring gushing from the rock, about ten feet above the river. +Eager to enjoy the crystal water, he threw himself down for a hasty +draught, and took a mouthful of water almost boiling hot. He said +nothing to Benoist, who laid himself down to drink; but the steam from +the water arrested his eagerness, and he escaped the hot draught. We +had no thermometer to ascertain the temperature, but I could hold my +hand in the water just long enough to count two seconds. There are +eight or ten of these springs discharging themselves by streams large +enough to be called runs. A loud hollow noise was heard from the rock, +which I supposed to be produced by the fall of water. The strata +immediately where they issue is a fine white and calcareous sandstone, +covered with an incrustation of common salt. Leaving this Thermopylæ of +the west, in a short walk we reached the red ridge which has been +described as lying just above Goat island. Ascending this, we found +some fresh tracks and a button, which showed that the other men had +already arrived. A shout from the man who first reached the top of the +ridge, responded to from below, informed us that our friends were all +on the island; and we were soon among them. We found some pieces of +buffalo standing around the fire for us, and managed to get some dry +clothes among the people. A sudden storm of rain drove us into the best +shelter we could find, where we slept soundly, after one of the most +fatiguing days I have ever experienced. + +25th.--Early this morning Lajeunesse was sent to the wreck for the +articles which had been saved, and about noon we left the island. The +mare which we had left here in July had much improved in condition, and +she served us well again for some time, but was finally abandoned at a +subsequent part of the journey. At 10 in the morning of the 26th we +reached Cache camp, where we found every thing undisturbed. We +disinterred our deposite, arranged our carts which had been left here +on the way out; and, traveling a few miles in the afternoon, encamped +for the night at the ford of the Platte. + +27th.--At mid-day we halted at the place where we had taken dinner on +the 27th of July. The country which, when we passed up, looked as if +the hard winter frosts had passed over it, had now assumed a new face, +so much of vernal freshness had been given to it by the rains. The +Platte was exceedingly low--a mere line of water among the sandbars. We +reached Laramie fort on the last day of August, after an absence of +forty-two days, and had the pleasure to find our friends all well. The +fortieth day had been fixed for our return; and the quick eyes of the +Indians, who were on the lookout for us, discovered our flag as we +wound among the hills. The fort saluted us with repeated discharges of +its single piece, which we returned with scattered volleys of our +small-arms, and felt the joy of a home reception in getting back to +this remote station, which seemed so far off as we went out. + + + +SEPTEMBER. + + +On the morning of the 3d September we bade adieu to our kind friends at +the fort, and continued our homeward journey down the Platte, which was +glorious with the autumnal splendor of innumerable flowers in full and +brilliant bloom. On the warm sands, among the _helianthi_, one of the +characteristic plants, we saw great numbers of rattlesnakes, of which +five or six were killed in the morning's ride. We occupied ourselves in +improving our previous survey of the river; and, as the weather was +fine, astronomical observations were generally made at night and at +noon. + +We halted for a short time on the afternoon of the 5th with a village +of Sioux Indians, some of whose chiefs we had met at Laramie. The water +in the Platte was exceedingly low; in many places, the large expanse of +sands, with some occasional stunted tree on its banks, gave it the air +of the seacoast; the bed of the river being merely a succession of +sandbars, among which the channel was divided into rivulets of a few +inches deep. We crossed and recrossed with our carts repeatedly and at +our pleasure; and, whenever an obstruction barred our way in the shape +of precipitous bluffs that came down upon the river, we turned directly +into it, and made our way along the sandy bed, with no other +inconvenience than the frequent quicksands, which greatly fatigued our +animals. Disinterring on the way the _cache_ which had been made by our +party when they ascended the river, we reached without accident, on the +evening of the 12th of September, our old encampment of the 2d of July, +at the junction of the forks. Our _cache_ of the barrel of pork was +found undisturbed, and proved a seasonable addition to our stock of +provisions. At this place I had determined to make another attempt to +descend the Platte by water, and accordingly spent two days in the +construction of a bull boat. Men were sent out on the evening of our +arrival, the necessary number of bulls killed, and their skins brought +to the camp. Four of the best of them were strongly sewed together with +buffalo sinew, and stretched over a basket frame of willow. The seams +were then covered with ashes and tallow, and the boat left exposed to +the sun for the greater part of one day, which was sufficient to dry +and contract the skin, and make the whole work solid and strong. It had +a rounded bow, was eight feet long and five broad, and drew with four +men about four inches water. On the morning of the 15th we embarked in +our hide boat, Mr. Preuss and myself, with two men. We dragged her over +the sands for three or four miles, and then left her on a bar, and +abandoned entirely all further attempts to navigate this river. The +names given by the Indians are always remarkably appropriate; and +certainly none was ever more so than that which they have given to this +stream--"The Nebraska, or Shallow river." Walking steadily the +remainder of the day, a little before dark we overtook our people at +their remaining camp, about twenty-one miles below the junction. The +next morning we crossed the Platte, and continued our way down the +river bottom on the left bank, where we found an excellent, +plainly-beaten road. + +On the 18th we reached Grand Island, which is fifty-two miles long, +with an average breadth of one mile and three-quarters. It has on it +some small eminences, and is sufficiently elevated to be secure from +the annual floods of the river. As has been already remarked, it is +well timbered; with an excellent soil, and recommends itself to notice +as the best point for a military position on the Lower Platte. + +On the 22d we arrived at the village of the Grand Pawnees, on the right +bank of the river, about thirty miles above the mouth of the Loup fork. +They were gathering in their corn, and we obtained from them a very +welcome supply of vegetables. + +The morning of the 24th we reached the Loup fork of the Platte. At the +place where we forded it, this stream was four hundred and thirty yards +broad, with a swift current of _clear_ water; in this respect, +differing from the Platte, which has a yellow muddy color, derived from +the limestone and marl formation, of which we have previously spoken. +The ford was difficult, as the water was so deep that it came into the +body of the carts, and we reached the opposite bank after repeated +attempts, ascending and descending the bed of the river, in order to +avail ourselves of the bars. We encamped on the left bank of the fork, +in the point of land at its junction with the Platte. During the two +days that we remained here for astronomical observations, the bad +weather permitted us to obtain but one good observation for the +latitude--a meridian altitude of the sun, which gave for the latitude +of the mouth of the Loup fork, 41° 22' 11". + +Five or six days previously, I had sent forward C. Lambert, with two +men, to Bellevue, with directions to ask from Mr. P. Sarpy, the +gentleman in charge of the American Company's establishment at that +place, the aid of his carpenters in constructing a boat, in which I +proposed to descend the Missouri. On the afternoon of the 27th we met +one of the men, who had been dispatched by Mr. Sarpy with a welcome +supply of provisions and a very kind note, which gave us the very +gratifying intelligence that our boat was in rapid progress. On the +evening of the 30th we encamped in an almost impenetrable undergrowth +on the left bank of the Platte, in the point of land at its confluence +with the Missouri--315 miles, according to our reckoning, from the +junction of the forks, and 520 from Fort Laramie. From the junction we +had found the bed of the Platte occupied with numerous islands, many of +them very large, and all well timbered; possessing, as well as the +bottom lands of the river, a very excellent soil. With the exception of +some scattered groves on the banks, the bottoms are generally without +timber. A portion of these consist of low grounds, covered with a +profusion of fine grasses, and are probably inundated in the spring; +the remaining part is high river prairie, entirely beyond the influence +of the floods. The breadth of the river is usually three-quarters of a +mile, except where it is enlarged by islands. That portion of its +course which is occupied by Grand island has an average breadth, from +shore to shore, of two and a half miles. + + + +OCTOBER. + + +1st.--I rose this morning long before daylight, and heard with a +feeling of pleasure the tinkling of cow-bells at the settlements on the +opposite side of the Missouri. Early in the day we reached Mr. Sarpy's +residence; and, in the security and comfort of his hospitable mansion, +felt the pleasure of being within the pale of civilization. We found +our boat on the stocks; a few days sufficed to complete her; and, in +the afternoon of the 4th, we embarked on the Missouri. All our +equipage--horses, carts, and the _materiel_ of the camp--had been sold +at public auction at Bellevue. The strength of my party enabled me to +man the boat with ten oars, relieved every hour; and we descended +rapidly. Early on the morning of the 10th, we halted to make some +astronomical observations at the mouth of the Kansas, exactly four +months since we had left the trading-post of Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, on +the same river, ten miles above. On our descent to this place, we had +employed ourselves in surveying and sketching the Missouri, making +astronomical observations regularly at night and at mid-day, whenever +the weather permitted. These operations on the river were continued +until our arrival at the city of St. Louis, Missouri, on the 17th. At +St. Louis, the sale of our remaining effects was made; and, leaving +that city by steamboat on the 18th, I had the honor to report to you at +the city of Washington on the 29th of October. + +Very respectfully, sir, + Your obedient servant, + J. C. FREMONT, + _2d Lieutenant Corps of Topographical Engineers._ + + + + +* * * * * + + +ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS + +_The Longitudes given in the subjoined Table are referred to the +meridian of Greenwich._ + +For the determination of astronomical positions, we were provided with +the following instruments: + + One telescope, magnifying power 120. + One circle, by Gambey, Paris. + One sextant, by Gambey, Paris. + One sextant, by Troughton. + One box chronometer, No.7,810, by French. + One Brockbank pocket chronometer. + One small watch with a light chronometer balance, No. + 4,632, by Arnold and Dent. + +The rate of the chronometer, 7,810, is exhibited in the following +statement: + + "NEW YORK, May 5, 1842 + "Chronometer No. 7,810, by French, is this day at noon-- + "_Slow_ of Greenwich mean time, 11' 4" + "_Fast_ of New York mean time, 4_h._ 45' 1" + "Loses per day 2".7 + "ARTHUR STEWART, 74 Merchants' Exchange." + +An accident among some rough ground in the neighborhood of the Kansas +river, strained the balance of this chronometer, (No. 7,810) and +rendered it useless during the remainder of the campaign. From the 9th +of June to the 24th of August, inclusively, the longitudes depend upon +the Brockbank pocket chronometer; the rate of which, on leaving St. +Louis, was fourteen seconds. The rate obtained by observations at Fort +Laramie, 14".05, has been used in calculation. + +From the 24th of August until the termination of the journey, No. 4,632 +(of which the rate was 35".79) was used for the same purposes. The rate +of this watch was irregular, and I place little confidence in the few +longitudes which depend upon it, though, so far as we have any means of +judging, they appear tolerably correct. + +_Table of Latitudes and Longitudes, deduced from Observations made +during the Journey._ + + +Date Station Latitude. Longitude. + +1842 Deg. min. sec. Deg. min. sec. + +May 27 St. Louis, residence + of Colonel Brunt,.......38 37 34 +June 8 Chouteau's lower + trading-post; Kansas + river,..................39 05 57 94 25 46 + 16 Left bank of Kansas + river. 7 miles above + the ford,...............39 06 40 95 38 05 + 18 Vermilion creek.........39 15 19 96 04 07 + 19 Cold springs, near + the road to Laramie,..39 30 40 96 14 49 + 20 Big Blue river, ........39 45 08 96 32 35 + 25 Little Blue river, .....40 26 50 98 22 12 + 26 Right bank of Platte + river,..................40 41 06 98 45 49 + 27 Right bank of Platte + river...................40 39 32 99 05 24 + 28 Right bank of Platte + river, .................40 39 51 + 30 Right bank of Platte + river...................40 39 55 100 05 47 +July 2 Junction of north and + south forks of the + Nebraska or Platte + river,..................41 05 05 100 49 43 + 4 South fork of Platte + river, left bank, + 6 South fork of Platte + river, island...........40 51 17 103 07 + 7 South fork of Platte + river, left bank........40 53 26 103 30 37 + 11 South fork of Platte + river, St. Vrain's + fort ,..................40 22 35 105 12 12 + 12 Crow creek,.............40 41 59 104 57 49 + 13 On a stream, name + unknown ................41 08 30 104 39 37 + 14 Horse creek. Goshen's + hole? ..................41 40 13 104 24 36 + 16 Fort Laramie, near + the mouth of Laramie's + fork, ..................42 12 10 104 47 43 + 23 North fork of Platte + river...................42 39 25 104 59 59 + 24 North fork of Platte + river...................42 47 40 + 25 North fork of Platte + river, Dried Meat camp..42 51 35 105 50 15 + 26 North fork of Platte + river, noon halt........42 50 08 + 26 North fork of Platte + river, mouth of Deer + creek,..................42 52 24 106 08 24 + 28 North fork of Platte + river, Cache camp,......42 50 53 106 38 26 + 29 North fork of Platte + river, left bank........42 38 01 106 54 32 + 30 North fork of Platte + river, Goat island......42 33 27 107 13 29 +Aug. 1 Sweet Water river, + one mile below Rock + Independence,...........42 29 56 107 25 23 + 4 Sweet Water river.......42 32 31 108 30 13 + 7 Sweet Water river.......42 27 15 109 21 32 + 8 Little Sandy creek, + tributary to the + Colorado of the West,...42 27 34 109 37 59 + 9 New fork, tributary to + the Colorado,...........42 42 46 109 58 11 + 10 Mountain lake,... ......42 49 49 110 08 03 + 15 Highest peak of the + Wind River mountains, + 19 Sweet Water, noon + halt,...................42 24 32 + 19 Sweet Water river,......42 22 22 + 20 Sweet Water river,......42 31 46 + 22 Sweet Water river, + noon halt,..............42 26 10 + 22 Sweet Water river, + Rock Independence,......42 29 36 + 23 North fork of Platte + river, mouth of Sweet + Water, .................42 27 18 + 30 Horse-shoe creek, + noon halt,..............42 24 24 +Sept 3 North fork of Platte + river, right bank,......42 01 40 + 4 North fork of Platte + river, near Scott's + bluffs..................41 54 38 + 5 North fork of Platte + river, right bank, + six miles above + Chimney rock,...........41 43 36 + 8 North fork of Platte + river, mouth of Ash + creek,..................41 17 19 + 9 North fork of Platte + river, right bank.......41 14 30 + 10 North fork of Platte + river, Cedar bluff,.....41 10 16 + 16 Platte river, noon + halt....................40 54 31 + 16 Platte river, left + bank, ..................40 52 74 + 17 Platte river, left + bank,...................40 42 38 + 18 Platte river, left + bank, ..................40 40 21 + 19 Platte river, left + bank....................40 39 44 + 20 Platte river, noon + halt, left bank, .......40 48 19 + 20 Platte river, left + bank,...................40 54 02 + 21 Platte river, left + bank ...................41 05 37 + 23 Platte river, noon + halt, left bank.........41 20 20 + 23 Platte river, left + bank ...................41 22 52 + 25 Platte river, mouth + of Loup fork,...........41 22 11 + 28 Platte river, mouth + of Elk Horn river.......41 09 34 + 29 Platte river, left + bank,...................41 02 15 +Oct. 2 Bellevue, at the post + of the American Fur + Company, right bank of + the Missouri river......41 08 24 95 20 + 4 Left bank of the + Missouri, opposite to + the right bank of the + mouth of the Platte.....41 02 11 + 5 Missouri river,.........40 34 08 + 6 Bertholet's island, + noon halt,..............40 27 08 + 6 Missouri river, mouth + of Nishnabatona river, .40 16 40 + 8 Missouri river, left + bank ...................39 36 02 + 10 Missouri river, mouth + of the Kansas river.....39 06 03 + + + + +* * * * * + + +A REPORT + +OF + +THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION + +TO + +OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA, IN THE YEARS 1843-'44. + + +Washington City, March 1, 1845 + +To Colonel J.J. ABERT, _Chief of the Corps of Top. Engineers:_ + +SIR:--In pursuance of your instructions, to connect the reconnoisance +of 1842, which I had the honor to conduct, with the surveys of +Commander Wilkes on the coast of the Pacific ocean, so as to give a +connected survey of the interior of our continent, I proceeded to the +Great West early in the spring of 1843, and arrived, on the 17th of +May, at the little town of Kansas, on the Missouri frontier, near the +junction of the Kansas river with the Missouri river, where I was +detained near two weeks in completing the necessary preparations for +the extended explorations which my instructions contemplated. + +My party consisted principally of Creole and Canadian French, and +Americans, amounting in all to thirty-nine men; among whom you will +recognise several of those who were with me in my first expedition, and +who have been favorably brought to your notice in a former report. Mr. +Thomas Fitzpatrick, whom many years of hardship and exposure, in the +western territories, had rendered familiar with a portion of the +country it was designed to explore, had been selected as our guide; and +Mr. Charles Preuss, who had been my assistant in a previous journey, +was again associated with me in the same capacity on the present +expedition. Agreeably to your directions, Mr. Theodore Talbot, of +Washington city, had been attached to the party, with a view to +advancement in his profession; and at St. Louis had been joined by Mr. +Frederick Dwight, a gentleman of Springfield, Massachusetts, who +availed himself of our overland journey to visit the Sandwich Islands +and China, by way of Fort Vancouver. + +The men engaged for the service were: Alexis Ayot, Francis Badeau, +Oliver Beaulieu, Baptiste Bernier, John A. Campbell, John G. Campbell, +Manuel Chapman, Ransom Clark, Philibert Courteau, Michel Crelis, +William Creuss, Clinton Deforest, Baptiste Derosier, Basil Lajeunesse, +François Lajeunesse, Henry Lee, Louis Menard, Louis Montreuil, Samuel +Neal, Alexis Pera, François Pera, James Power, Raphael Proue, Oscar +Sarpy, Baptiste Tabeau, Charles Taplin, Baptiste Tesson, Auguste +Vasquez, Joseph Verrot, Patrick White, Tiery Wright, Louis Zindel, and +Jacob Dodson, a free young colored man of Washington city, who +volunteered to accompany the expedition, and performed his duty +manfully throughout the voyage. Two Delaware Indians--a fine-looking +old man and his son--were engaged to accompany the expedition as +hunters, through the kindness of Major Cummins, the excellent Indian +agent. L. Maxwell, who had accompanied the expedition as one of the +hunters in 1842, being on his way to Taos, in New Mexico, also joined +us at this place. + +The party was generally armed with Hall's carbines, which with a brass +twelve-pound howitzer, had been furnished to me from the United States +arsenal at St. Louis, agreeably to the orders of Colonel S.W. Kearney, +commanding the third military division. Three men were especially +detailed for the management of this piece, under the charge of Louis +Zindel, a native of Germany, who had been nineteen years a +non-commissioned officer of artillery in the Prussian army, and +regularly instructed in the duties of his profession. The camp equipage +and provisions were transported in twelve carts, drawn each by two +mules; and a light covered wagon, mounted on good springs, had been +provided for the safer carriage of instruments. These were: + +One refracting telescope, by Frauenhofer. One reflecting circle, by +Gambey. Two sextants, by Troughton. One pocket chronometer, No. 837, by +Goffe, Falmouth. One pocket chronometer, No. 739, by Brockbank. One +syphon barometer, by Bunten, Paris. One cistern barometer, by Frye and +Shaw, New York. Six thermometers, and a number of small compasses. + +To make the exploration as useful as possible, I determined, in +conformity to your general instructions, to vary the route to the Rocky +mountains from that followed in 1842. The route was then up the valley +of the Great Platte river to the South Pass, in north latitude 42°; the +route now determined on was up the valley of the Kansas river, and to +the head of the Arkansas river, and to some pass in the mountains, if +any could be found, at the sources of that river. + +By making this deviation from the former route, the problem of a new +road to Oregon and California, in a climate more genial, might be +solved; and a better knowledge obtained of an important river, and the +country it drained, while the great object of the expedition would find +its point of commencement at the termination of the former, which was +at that great gate in the ridge of the Rocky mountains called the South +Pass, and on the lofty peak of the mountain which overlooks it, deemed +the highest peak in the ridge, and from the opposite side of which four +great rivers take their rise, and flow to the Pacific or the +Mississippi. + +Various obstacles delayed our departure until the morning of the 29th, +when we commenced our long voyage; and at the close of a day, rendered +disagreeably cold by incessant rain, encamped about four miles beyond +the frontier, on the verge of the great prairies. + +Resuming our journey on the 31st, after the delay of a day to complete +our equipment and furnish ourselves with some of the comforts of +civilized life, we encamped in the evening at Elm Grove, in company +with several emigrant wagons, constituting a party which was proceeding +to Upper California, under the direction of Mr. J.B. Childs, of +Missouri. The wagons were variously freighted with goods, furniture, +and farming utensils, containing among other things an entire set of +machinery for a mill which Mr. Childs designed erecting on the waters +of the Sacramento river, emptying into the bay of San Francisco. + +We were joined here by Mr. Wm. Gilpin of Mo., who, intending this year +to visit the settlements in Oregon, had been invited to accompany us, +and proved a useful and agreeable addition to the party. + + +JUNE. + + +From Elm Grove, our route until the third of June was nearly the same +as that described to you in 1842. Trains of wagons were almost +constantly in sight; giving to the road a populous and animated +appearance, although the greater portion of the emigrants were +collected at the crossing, or already on their march beyond the Kansas +river. Leaving at the ford the usual emigrant road to the mountains, we +continued our route along the southern side of the Kansas, where we +found the country much more broken than on the northern side of the +river, and where our progress was much delayed by the numerous small +streams, which obliged us to make frequent bridges. On the morning of +the 4th we crossed a handsome stream, called by the Indians Otter +creek, about 130 feet wide, where a flat stratum of limestone, which +forms the bed, made an excellent ford. We met here a small party of +Kansas and Delaware Indians, the latter returning from a hunting and +trapping expedition on the upper waters of the river; and on the +heights above were five or six Kansas women, engaged in digging prairie +potatoes, (_psoralea esculenta_.) On the afternoon of the 6th, whilst +busily engaged in crossing a wooded stream, we were thrown into a +little confusion by the sudden arrival of Maxwell, who entered the camp +at full speed at the head of a war party of Osage Indians, with gay red +blankets, and heads shaved to the scalp lock. They had run him a +distance of about nine miles, from a creek on which we had encamped the +day previous, and to which he had returned in search of a runaway horse +belonging to Mr. Dwight, which had taken the homeward road, carrying +with him saddle, bridle, and holster-pistols. The Osages were probably +ignorant of our strength, and, when they charged into the camp, drove +off a number of our best horses; but we were fortunately well mounted, +and, after a hard chase of seven or eight miles, succeeded in +recovering them all. This accident, which occasioned delay and trouble, +and threatened danger and loss, and broke down some good horses at the +start, and actually endangered the expedition, was a first fruit of +having gentlemen in company--very estimable, to be sure, but who are +not trained to the care and vigilance and self-dependence which such an +expedition required, and who are not subject to the orders which +enforce attention and exertion. We arrived on the 8th at the mouth of +the Smoky-hill fork, which is the principal southern branch of the +Kansas; forming here, by its junction with the Republican, or northern +branch, the main Kansas river. Neither stream was fordable, and the +necessity of making a raft, together with bad weather, detained us here +until the morning of the 11th; when we resumed our journey along the +Republican fork. By our observations, the junction of the streams is in +lat. 39° 30' 38", long. 96° 24' 36", and at an elevation of 926 feet +above the Gulf of Mexico. For several days we continued to travel along +the Republican, through a country beautifully watered with numerous +streams, and handsomely timbered; and rarely an incident occurred to +vary the monotonous resemblance which one day on the prairies here +bears to another, and which scarcely require a particular description. +Now and then, we caught a glimpse of a small herd of elk; and +occasionally a band of antelopes, whose curiosity sometimes brought +them within rifle range, would circle round us and then scour off into +the prairies. As we advanced on our road, these became more frequent; +but as we journeyed on the line usually followed by the trapping and +hunting parties of the Kansas and Delaware Indians, game of every kind +continued very shy and wild. The bottoms which form the immediate +valley of the main river were generally about three miles wide; having +a rich soil of black vegetable mould, and, for a prairie country, well +interspersed with wood. The country was everywhere covered with a +considerable variety of grasses, occasionally poor and thin, but far +more frequently luxuriant and rich. We had been gradually and regularly +ascending in our progress westward, and on the evening of the 14th, +when we encamped on a little creek in the valley of the Republican, 265 +miles by our traveling road from the mouth of the Kansas, we were at an +elevation of 1,520 feet. That part of the river where we were now +encamped is called by the Indians the _Big Timber_. Hitherto our route +had been laborious and extremely slow, the unusually wet spring and +constant rain having so saturated the whole country that it was +necessary to bridge every water-course, and, for days together, our +usual march averaged only five or six miles. Finding that at such a +rate of travel it would be impossible to comply with your instructions, +I determined at this place to divide the party, and, leaving Mr. +Fitzpatrick with twenty-five men in charge of the provisions and +heavier baggage of the camp, to proceed myself in advance, with a light +party of fifteen men, taking with me the howitzer and the light wagon +which carried the instruments. + +Accordingly, on the morning of the 16th, the parties separated; and, +bearing a little out from the river, with a view of heading some of the +numerous affluents, after a few hours' travel over somewhat broken +ground, we entered upon an extensive and high level prairie, on which +we encamped towards evening at a little stream, where a single dry +cottonwood afforded the necessary fuel for preparing supper. Among a +variety of grasses which to-day made their first appearance, I noticed +bunch-grass, (_festuca_,) and buffalo-grass, (_sesleria dactlyloides_.) +Amorpha canescens (_lead plant_) continued the characteristic plant of +the country, and a narrow-leaved _lathyrus_ occurred during the +morning, in beautiful patches. _Sida coccinea_ occurred frequently, +with a _psoralea_ near _psoralea floribunda_, and a number of plants +not hitherto met, just verging into bloom. The water on which we had +encamped belonged to Solomon's fort of the Smoky-hill river, along +whose tributaries we continued to travel for several days. + +The country afforded us an excellent road, the route being generally +over high and very level prairies; and we met with no other delay than +being frequently obliged to bridge one of the numerous streams, which +were well timbered with ash, elm, cottonwood, and a very large oak--the +latter being occasionally five and six feet in diameter, with a +spreading summit. _Sida coccinea_ is very frequent in vermilion-colored +patches on the high and low prairie; and I remarked that it has a very +pleasant perfume. + +The wild sensitive plant (_schrankia angustata_) occurs frequently, +generally on the dry prairies, in valleys of streams, and frequently on +the broken prairie bank. I remark that the leaflets close instantly to +a very light touch. _Amorpha_, with the same _psoralea_, and a dwarf +species of _lupinus_, are the characteristic plants. + +On the 19th, in the afternoon, we crossed the Pawnee road to the +Arkansas, and traveling a few miles onward, the monotony of the +prairies was suddenly dispelled by the appearance of five or six +buffalo bulls, forming a vanguard of immense herds, among which we were +traveling a few days afterwards. Prairie dogs were seen for the first +time during the day; and we had the good fortune to obtain an antelope +for supper. Our elevation had now increased to 1,900 feet. _Sida +coccinea_ was the characteristic on the creek bottoms, and buffalo +grass is becoming abundant on the higher parts of the ridges. + +21st.--During the forenoon we traveled up a branch of the creek on +which we had encamped, in a broken country, where, however, the +dividing ridges always afforded a good road. Plants were few; and with +the short sward of the buffalo-grass, which now prevailed everywhere, +giving to the prairies a smooth and mossy appearance, were mingled +frequent patches of a beautiful red grass, (_aristida pallens_,) which +had made its appearance only within the last few days. + +We halted to noon at a solitary cottonwood in a hollow, near which was +killed the first buffalo, a large old bull. + +Antelope appeared in bands during the day. Crossing here to the +affluents of the Republican, we encamped on a fork, about forty feet +wide and one foot deep, flowing with a swift current over a sandy bed, +and well wooded with ash-leaved maple, (_negundo fraxinifolium_,) elm, +cottonwood, and a few white oaks. We were visited in the evening by a +very violent storm, accompanied by wind, lightning, and thunder; a cold +rain falling in torrents. According to the barometer, our elevation was +2,130 feet above the gulf. + +At noon, on the 23d, we descended into the valley of a principal fork +of the Republican, a beautiful stream with a dense border of wood, +consisting principally of varieties of ash, forty feet wide and four +deep. It was musical with the notes of many birds, which, from the vast +expanse of silent prairie around, seemed all to have collected here. We +continued during the afternoon our route along the river, which was +populous with prairie dogs, (the bottoms being entirely occupied with +their villages,) and late in the evening encamped on its banks. The +prevailing timber is a blue-foliaged ash, (_fraxinus_, near _F. +Americana_,) and ash-leaved maple. With these were _fraxinus +Americana_, cottonwood, and long-leaved willow. We gave to this stream +the name of Prairie Dog river. Elevation 2,350 feet. Our road on the +25th lay over high smooth ridges, 3,100 feet above the sea; buffalo in +great numbers, absolutely covering the face of the country. At evening +we encamped within a few miles of the main Republican, on a little +creek, where the air was fragrant with the perfume of _artemisia +filifolia_, which we here saw for the first time, and which was now in +bloom. Shortly after leaving our encampment on the 26th, we found +suddenly that the nature of the country had entirely changed. Bare +sand-hills everywhere surrounded us in the undulating ground along +which we were moving, and the plants peculiar to a sandy soil made +their appearance in abundance. A few miles further we entered the +valley of a large stream, afterwards known to be the Republican fork of +the Kansas, whose shallow waters, with a depth of only a few inches, +were spread out over a bed of yellowish white sand 600 yards wide. With +the exception of one or two distant and detached groves, no timber of +any kind was to be seen; and the features of the country assumed a +desert character, with which the broad river, struggling for existence +among the quicksands along the treeless banks, was strikingly in +keeping. On the opposite side, the broken ridges assumed almost a +mountainous appearance; and fording the stream, we continued on our +course among these ridges, and encamped late in the evening at a little +pond of very bad water, from which we drove away a herd of buffalo that +were standing in and about it. Our encampment this evening was 3,500 +feet above the sea. We traveled now for several days through a broken +and dry sandy region, about 4,000 feet above the sea, where there were +no running streams; and some anxiety was constantly felt on account of +the uncertainty of water, which was only to be found in small lakes +that occurred occasionally among the hills. The discovery of these +always brought pleasure to the camp, as around them were generally +green flats, which afforded abundant pasturage for our animals; and +here we usually collected herds of the buffalo, which now were +scattered over all the country in countless numbers. + +The soil of bare and hot sands supported a varied and exuberant growth +of plants, which were much farther advanced than we had previously +found them, and whose showy bloom somewhat relieved the appearance of +general sterility. Crossing the summit of an elevated and continuous +range of rolling hills, on the afternoon of the 30th of June, we found +ourselves overlooking a broad and misty valley, where, about ten miles +distant, and 1,000 feet below us, the South fork of the Platte was +rolling magnificently along, swollen with the waters of the melting +snows. It was in strong and refreshing contrast with the parched +country from which we had just issued; and when, at night, the broad +expanse of water grew indistinct, it almost seemed that we had pitched +our tents on the shore of the sea. + + + +JULY. + + +Traveling along up the valley of the river, here 4,000 feet above the +sea, in the afternoon of July 1, we caught a far and uncertain view of +a faint blue mass in the west, as the sun sank behind it; and from our +camp in the morning, at the mouth of Bijou, Long's peak and the +neighboring mountains stood out into the sky, grand and luminously +white, covered to their bases with glittering snow. + +On the evening of the 3d, as we were journeying along the partially +overflowed bottoms of the Platte, where our passage stirred up swarms +of musquitoes, we came unexpectedly on an Indian, who was perched upon +a bluff, curiously watching the movements of our caravan. He belonged +to a village of Oglallah Sioux, who had lost all their animals in the +severity of the preceding winter, and were now on their way up the +Bijou fork to beg horses from the Arapahoes, who were hunting buffalo +at the head of that river. Several came into our camp at noon; and, as +they were hungry, as usual, they were provided with buffalo-meat, of +which the hunters had brought in an abundant supply. + +About noon, on the 4th of July, we arrived at the fort, where Mr. St. +Vrain received us with his customary kindness, and invited us to join +him in a feast which had been prepared in honor of the day. + +Our animals were very much worn out, and our stock of provisions +entirely exhausted, when we arrived at the fort; but I was disappointed +in my hope of obtaining relief, as I found it in a very impoverished +condition; and we were able to procure only a little unbolted Mexican +flour, and some salt, with a few pounds of powder and lead. + +As regarded provisions, it did not much matter in a country where +rarely the day passed without seeing some kind of game, and where it +was frequently abundant. It was a rare thing to lie down hungry, and we +had already learned to think bread a luxury; but we could not proceed +without animals, and our own were not capable of prosecuting the +journey beyond the mountains without relief. + +I had been informed that a large number of mules had recently arrived +at Taos, from Upper California; and as our friend, Mr. Maxwell, was +about to continue his journey to that place, where a portion of his +family resided, I engaged him to purchase for me ten or twelve mules, +with the understanding that he should pack them with provisions and +other necessaries, and meet me at the mouth of the +_Fontaine-qui-bouit_, on the Arkansas river, to which point I would be +led in the course of the survey. + +Agreeably to his own request, and in the conviction that his habits of +life and education had not qualified him to endure the hard life of a +voyageur, I discharged here one of my party, Mr. Oscar Sarpy, having +furnished him with arms and means of transportation to Fort Laramie, +where he would be in the line of caravans returning to the States. + +At daybreak, on the 6th of July, Maxwell was on his way to Taos; and a +few hours after we also had recommenced our journey up the Platte, +which was continuously timbered with cottonwood and willow, on a +generally sandy soil. Passing on the way the remains of two abandoned +forts, (one of which, however, was still in good condition,) we +reached, in ten miles, Fort Lancaster, the trading establishment of Mr. +Lupton. + +His post was beginning to assume the appearance of a comfortable farm: +stock, hogs, and cattle, were ranging about on the prairie--there were +different kinds of poultry; and there was a wreck of a promising +garden, in which a considerable variety of vegetables had been in a +flourishing condition; but it had been almost entirely ruined by the +recent high waters. I remained to spend with him an agreeable hour, and +set off in a cold storm of rain, which was accompanied with violent +thunder and lightning. We encamped immediately on the river, sixteen +miles from St. Vrain's. Several Arapahoes, on their way to the village +which was encamped a few miles above us, passed by the camp in the +course of the afternoon. Night set in stormy and cold, with heavy and +continuous rain, which lasted until morning. + +7th.--We made this morning an early start, continuing to travel up the +Platte; and in a few miles frequent bands of horses and mules, +scattered for several miles round about, indicated our approach to the +Arapaho village, which we found encamped in a beautiful bottom, and +consisting of about one hundred and sixty lodges. It appeared extremely +populous, with a great number of children--a circumstance which +indicated a regular supply of the means of subsistence. The chiefs, who +were gathered together at the farther end of the village, received us +(as probably strangers are always received to whom they desire to show +respect or regard) by throwing their arms around our necks and +embracing us. + +It required some skill in horsemanship to keep the saddle during the +performance of this ceremony, as our American horses exhibited for them +the same fear they have for a bear, or any other wild animal. Having +very few goods with me, I was only able to make them a meager present, +accounting for the poverty of the gift by explaining that my goods had +been left with the wagons in charge of Mr. Fitzpatrick, who was well +known to them as the White Head, or the Broken Hand. I saw here, as I +had remarked in an Arapaho village the preceding year, near the lodges +of the chiefs; tall tripods of white poles supporting their spears and +shields, which showed it to be a regular custom. + +Though disappointed in obtaining the presents which had been evidently +expected, they behaved very courteously; and, after a little +conversation, I left them, and, continuing on up the river, halted to +noon on the bluff, as the bottoms are almost inundated; continuing in +the afternoon our route along the mountains, which were dark, misty, +and shrouded--threatening a storm; the snow peaks sometimes glittering +through the clouds beyond the first ridge. + +We surprised a grizzly bear sauntering along the river, which, raising +himself upon his hind legs, took a deliberate survey of us, that did +not appear very satisfactory to him, and he scrambled into the river +and swam to the opposite side. We halted for the night a little above +Cherry creek; the evening cloudy, with many musquitoes. Some +indifferent observations placed the camp in lat. 39° 43' 53", and +chronometric long. 105° 24' 34". + +8th.--We continued to-day to travel up the Platte: the morning +pleasant, with a prospect of fairer weather. During the forenoon our +way lay over a more broken country, with a gravelly and sandy surface; +although the immediate bottom of the river was a good soil, of a dark +and sandy mould, resting upon a stratum of large pebbles, or rolled +stones, as at Laramie fork. On our right, and apparently very near, but +probably 8 or 10 miles distant, and two or three thousand feet above +us, ran the first range of the mountains, like a dark corniced line, in +clear contrast with the great snowy chain which, immediately beyond, +rose glittering five thousand feet above them. We caught this morning a +view of Pike's peak; but it appeared for a moment only, as clouds rose +early over the mountains, and shrouded them in mist and rain all the +day. In the first range were visible, as at the Red Buttes on the North +fork, very lofty escarpments of red rock. While traveling through this +region, I remarked that always in the morning the lofty peaks were +visible and bright, but very soon small white clouds began to settle +around them--brewing thicker and thicker as the day advanced, until the +afternoon, when the thunder began to roll; and invariably at evening we +had more or less of a thunder storm. At 11 o'clock, and 21 miles from +St. Vrain's fort, we reached a point in this southern fork of the +Platte, where the stream is divided into three forks; two of these (one +of them being much the largest) issuing directly from the mountains on +the west, and forming, with the eastern-most branch, a river of the +plains. The elevation of this point is about 5,500 feet above the sea; +this river falling 2,800 feet in a distance of 316 miles, to its +junction with the North fork of the Platte. In this estimate, the +elevation of the junction is assumed as given by our barometrical +observations in 1842. On the easternmost branch, up which we took our +way, we first came among the pines growing on the top of a very high +bank, and where we halted on it to noon; quaking asp (_populus +tremuloides_) was mixed with the cottonwood, and there were excellent +grass and rushes for the animals. + +During the morning there occurred many beautiful flowers, which we had +not hitherto met. Among them, the common blue flowering flax made its +first appearance; and a tall and handsome species of _gilia_, with +slender scarlet flowers, which appeared yesterday for the first time, +was very frequent to-day. + +We had found very little game since leaving the fort, and provisions +began to get unpleasantly scant, as we had had no meat for several +days; but towards sundown, when we had already made up our minds to +sleep another night without supper, Lajeunesse had the good fortune to +kill a fine deer, which he found feeding in a hollow near by; and as +the rain began to fall, threatening an unpleasant night, we hurried to +secure a comfortable camp in the timber. + +To-night the camp fires, girdled with _appolas_ of fine venison, looked +cheerful in spite of the stormy weather. + +9th.--On account of the low state of our provisions and the scarcity of +game, I determined to vary our route, and proceed several camps to the +eastward, in the hope of falling in with the buffalo. This route along +the dividing grounds between the South fork of the Platte and the +Arkansas, would also afford some additional geographical information. +This morning, therefore, we turned to the eastward, along the upper +waters of the stream on which we had encamped, entering a country of +picturesque and varied scenery; broken into rocky hills of singular +shapes; little valleys, with pure crystal water, here leaping swiftly +along, and there losing itself in the sands; green spots of luxuriant +grass, flowers of all colors, and timber of different kinds--every +thing to give it a varied beauty, except game. To one of these +remarkably shaped hills, having on the summit a circular flat rock two +or three hundred yards in circumference, some one gave the name of +Poundcake, which it has been permitted to retain, as our hungry people +seemed to think it a very agreeable comparison. In the afternoon a +buffalo bull was killed, and we encamped on a small stream, near the +road which runs from St. Vrain's fort to the Arkansas. + +10th:--Snow fell heavily on the mountains during the night, and Pike's +peak this morning is luminous and grand, covered from the summit, as +low down as we can see, with glittering white. Leaving the encampment +at 6 o'clock, we continued our easterly course over a rolling country, +near to the high ridges, which are generally rough and rocky, with a +coarse conglomerate displayed in masses, and covered with pines. The +rock is very friable, and it is undoubtedly from its decomposition that +the prairies derive their sandy and gravelly formation. In six miles we +crossed a head-water of the Kioway river, on which we found a strong +fort and _coral_ that had been built in the spring, and halted to noon +on the principal branch of the river. During the morning our route led +over a dark and vegetable mould, mixed with sand and gravel, the +characteristic plant being _esparcette_, (_onobrychis sativa_,) a +species of clover which is much used in certain parts of Germany for +pasturage of stock--principally hogs. It is sown on rocky waste ground, +which would otherwise be useless, and grows very luxuriantly, requiring +only a renewal of the seed about once in fifteen years. Its abundance +here greatly adds to the pastoral value of this region. A species of +antennaria in flower was very common along the line of road, and the +creeks were timbered with willow and pine. We encamped on Bijou's fork, +the water of which, unlike the clear streams we had previously crossed, +is of a whitish color, and the soil of the bottom a very hard, tough +clay. There was a prairie dog village on the bottom, and, in the +endeavor to unearth one of the little animals, we labored ineffectually +in the tough clay until dark. After descending, with a slight +inclination, until it had gone the depth of two feet, the hole suddenly +turned at a sharp angle in another direction for one more foot in +depth, when it again turned, taking an ascending direction to the next +nearest hole. I have no doubt that all their little habitations +communicate with each other. The greater part of the people were sick +to-day, and I was inclined to attribute their indisposition to the meat +of the bull which had been killed the previous day. + +11th.--There were no indications of buffalo having been recently in the +neighborhood; and, unwilling to travel farther eastward, I turned this +morning to the southward, up the valley of Bijou. _Esparcette_ occurred +universally, and among the plants on the river I noticed, for the first +time during this journey, a few small bushes of the _absinthe_ of the +voyageurs, which is commonly used for firewood, (_artemesia +tridentata_.) Yesterday and to-day the road has been ornamented with +the showy bloom of a beautiful lupinus, a characteristic in many parts +of the mountain region, on which were generally great numbers of an +insect with very bright colors, (_litta vesicatoria_.) + +As we were riding quietly along, eagerly searching every hollow in +search of game, we discovered, at a little distance in the prairie, a +large grizzly bear, so busily engaged in digging roots that he did not +perceive us until we were galloping down a little hill fifty yards from +him, when he charged upon us with such sudden energy that several of us +came near losing our saddles. Being wounded, he commenced retreating to +a rocky piny ridge near by, from which we were not able to cut him off, +and we entered the timber with him. The way was very much blocked up +with fallen timber; and we kept up a running fight for some time, +animated by the bear charging among the horses. He did not fall until +after he had received six rifle balls. He was miserably poor, and added +nothing to our stock of provisions. + +We followed the stream to its head in a broken ridge, which, according +to the barometer, was about 7,500 feet above the sea. This is a piny +elevation, into which the prairies are gathered, and from which the +waters flow, in almost every direction, to the Arkansas, Platte, and +Kansas rivers; the latter stream having here its remotest sources. +Although somewhat rocky and broken, and covered with pines, in +comparison with the neighboring mountains, it scarcely forms an +interruption to the great prairie plains which sweep up to their bases. + +We had an excellent view of Pike's peak from this camp, at the distance +of forty miles. This mountain barrier presents itself to travelers on +the plains, which sweep almost directly to its bases--an immense and +comparatively smooth and grassy prairie, in very strong contrast with +the black masses of timber, and the glittering snow above them. With +occasional exceptions, comparatively so very small as not to require +mention, these prairies are everywhere covered with a close and +vigorous growth of a great variety of grasses, among which the most +abundant is the buffalo grass, (_sesleria dactyloides_.) Between the +Platte and Arkansas rivers, that part of this region which forms the +basin drained by the waters of the Kansas, with which our operations +made us more particularly acquainted, is based upon a formation of +calcareous rocks. The soil of all this country is excellent, admirably +adapted to agricultural purposes, and would support a large +agricultural and pastoral population. A glance at the map, along our +several lines of travel, will show you that this plain is watered by +many streams. Throughout the western half of the plain, these are +shallow, with sandy beds, becoming deeper as they reach the richer +lands approaching the Missouri river; they generally have bottom lands, +bordered by bluffs varying from fifty to five hundred feet in height. +In all this region the timber is entirely confined to the streams. In +the eastern half, where the soil is a deep, rich, vegetable mould, +retentive of rain and moisture, it is of vigorous growth, and of many +different kinds; and throughout the western half it consists entirely +of various species of cottonwood, which deserves to be called the tree +of the desert--growing in sandy soils, where no other tree will +grow--pointing out the existence of water, and furnishing to the +traveler fuel, and food for his animals. Add to this that the western +border of the plain is occupied by the Sioux, Arapaho, and Cheyenne +nations, with the Pawnees and other half-civilized tribes in its +eastern limits, for whom the intermediate country is a war-ground, and +you will have a tolerably correct idea of the appearance and condition +of the country. Descending a somewhat precipitous and rocky hillside +among the pines, which rarely appear elsewhere than on the ridge, we +encamped at its foot, where there were several springs, which you will +find laid down upon the map as one of the extreme sources of the Smoky +Hill fork of the Kansas. From this place the view extended over the +Arkansas valley, and the Spanish peaks in the south beyond. As the +greater part of the men continued sick, I encamped here for the day, +and ascertained conclusively, from experiments on myself, that their +illness was caused by the meat of the buffalo bull. + +On the summit of the ridge, near the camp, were several rock-built +forts, which in front were very difficult of approach, and in the rear +were protected by a precipice entirely beyond the reach of a +rifle-ball. The evening was tolerably clear, with a temperature at +sunset of 63°. Elevation of the camp seven thousand and three hundred +feet. + +Turning the next day to the southwest, we reached, in the course of the +morning, the wagon-road to the settlements on the Arkansas river, and +encamped in the afternoon on the _Fontaine-qui-bouit_ (or Boiling +Spring) river, where it was fifty feet wide, with a swift current. I +afterwards found that the spring and river owe their names to the +bubbling of the effervescing gas in the former, and not to the +temperature of the water, which is cold. During the morning a tall +species of _gilia_, with a slender white flower, was characteristic; +and, in the latter part of the day, another variety of _esparcette_, +(wild clover,) having the flower white, was equally so. We had a fine +sunset of golden brown; and in the evening, a very bright moon, with +the near mountains, made a beautiful scene. Thermometer, at sunset, was +69°, and our elevation above the sea 5,800 feet. + +13th.--The morning was clear, with a northwesterly breeze, and the +thermometer at sunrise at 46°. There were no clouds along the +mountains, and the morning sun showed very clearly their rugged +character. + +We resumed our journey very early down the river, following an +extremely good lodge-trail, which issues by the head of this stream +from the bayou Salade, a high mountain valley behind Pike's peak. The +soil along the road was sandy and gravelly, and the river well +timbered. We halted to noon under the shade of some fine large +cottonwoods, our animals luxuriating on rushes, (_equisetum hyemale_,) +which, along this river, were remarkably abundant. A variety of cactus +made its appearance, and among several strange plants were numerous and +beautiful clusters of a plant resembling _mirabilis jalapa_, with a +handsome convolvulus I had not hitherto seen, (_calystegia_.) In the +afternoon we passed near the encampment of a hunter named Maurice, who +had been out into the plains in pursuit of buffalo calves, a number of +which I saw among some domestic cattle near his lodge. Shortly +afterwards, a party of mountaineers galloped up to us--fine-looking and +hardy men, dressed in skins, and mounted on good fat horses; among them +were several Connecticut men, a portion of Wyeth's party, whom I had +seen the year before, and others were men from the western states. + +Continuing down the river, we encamped at noon on the 14th, at its +mouth, on the Arkansas river. A short distance above our encampment, on +the left bank of the Arkansas, is a _pueblo_, (as the Mexicans call +their civilized Indian villages,) where a number of mountaineers, who +had married Spanish women in the valley of Taos, had collected together +and occupied themselves in farming, carrying on at the same time a +desultory Indian trade. They were principally Americans, and treated us +with all the rude hospitality their situation admitted; but as all +commercial intercourse with New Mexico was now interrupted, in +consequence of Mexican decrees to that effect, there was nothing to be +had in the way of provisions. They had, however, a fine stock of +cattle, and furnished us an abundance of excellent milk. I learned here +that Maxwell, in company with two other men, had started for Taos on +the morning of the 9th, but that he would probably fall into the hands +of the Utah Indians, commonly called the _Spanish Yutes_. As Maxwell +had no knowledge of their being in the vicinity when he crossed the +Arkansas, his chance of escape was very doubtful; but I did not +entertain much apprehension for his life, having great confidence in +his prudence and courage. I was further informed that there had been a +popular tumult among the _pueblos_, or civilized Indians, residing near +Taos, against the "_foreigners_" of that place; in which they had +plundered their houses and ill-treated their families. Among those +whose property had been destroyed, was Mr. Beaubien, father-in-law of +Maxwell, from whom I had expected to obtain supplies, and who had been +obliged to make his escape to Santa Fé. + +By this position of affairs, our expectation of obtaining supplies from +Taos was cut off. I had here the satisfaction to meet our good +buffalo-hunter of 1842, Christopher Carson, whose services I considered +myself fortunate to secure again; and as a reinforcement of mules was +absolutely necessary, I dispatched him immediately, with an account of +our necessities, to Mr. Charles Bent, whose principal post is on the +Arkansas river, about seventy-five miles below _Fontaine-qui-bouit_. He +was directed to proceed from that post by the nearest route across the +country, and meet me, with what animals he should be able to obtain, at +St. Vrain's fort. I also admitted into the party Charles Towns, a +native of St. Louis, a serviceable man, with many of the qualities of a +good voyageur. According to our observations, the latitude of the mouth +of the river is 38° 15' 23", its longitude 104° 58' 30", and its +elevation above the sea 4,880 feet. + +On the morning of the 16th, the time for Maxwell's arrival having +expired, we resumed our journey, leaving for him a note, in which it +was stated that I would wait for him at St. Vrain's fort, until the +morning of the 26th, in the event that he should succeed in his +commission. Our direction was up the Boiling Spring river, it being my +intention to visit the celebrated springs from which the river takes +its name, and which are on its upper waters, at the foot of Pike's +peak. Our animals fared well while we were on this stream, there being +everywhere a great abundance of _prele_. _Ipomea leptophylla_ in bloom, +was a characteristic plant along the river, generally in large bunches, +with two to five flowers on each. Beautiful clusters of the plant +resembling _mirabilis jalapa_ were numerous, and _glycyrrhiza lepidota_ +was a characteristic of the bottoms. Currants nearly ripe were +abundant, and among the shrubs which covered the bottom was a very +luxuriant growth of chenopodiaceous shrubs, four to six feet high. On +the afternoon of the 17th we entered among the broken ridges at the +foot of the mountains, where the river made several forks. Leaving the +camp to follow slowly, I rode ahead in the afternoon in search of the +springs. In the meantime, the clouds, which had been gathered all the +afternoon over the mountains, began to roll down their sides; and a +storm so violent burst upon me, that it appeared I had entered the +storehouse of the thunder-storms. I continued, however, to ride along +up the river until about sunset, and was beginning to be doubtful of +finding the springs before the next day, when I came suddenly upon a +large smooth rock, about twenty yards in diameter, where the water from +several springs was bubbling and boiling up in the midst of a white +incrustation, with which it had covered a portion of the rock. As this +did not correspond with the description given the by the hunters, I did +not stop to taste the water, but dismounting, walked a little way up +the river, and, passing through a narrow thicket of shrubbery bordering +the stream, stepped directly upon a huge white rock, at the foot of +which the river, already become a torrent, foamed along, broken by a +small fall. A deer which had been drinking at the spring was startled +by my approach, and, springing across the river, bounded off up the +mountain. In the upper part of the rock, which had apparently been +formed by deposition, was a beautiful white basin, overhung by currant +bushes, in which the cold clear water bubbled up, kept in constant +motion by the escaping gas, and overflowing the rock, which it had +almost entirely covered with a smooth crust of glistening white. I had +all day refrained from drinking, reserving myself for the spring; and +as I could not well be more wet than the rain had already made me, I +lay down by the side of the basin, and drank heartily of the delightful +water. The spring is situated immediately at the foot of lofty +mountains, beautifully timbered, which sweep closely round, shutting up +the little valley in a kind of cove. As it was beginning to grow dark, +I rode quickly down the river, on which I found the camp a few miles +below. + +The morning of the 18th was beautiful and clear; and, all the people +being anxious to drink of these famous waters, we encamped immediately +at the springs, and spent there a very pleasant day. On the opposite +side of the river is another locality of springs, which are entirely of +same nature. The water has a very agreeable taste, which Mr. Preuss +found very much to resemble that of the famous Selter springs in the +grand duchy of Nassau, a country famous for wine and mineral waters; +and it is almost entirely of the same character, though still more +agreeable than that of the famous Bear springs, near Bear river of the +Great Salt lake. The following is an analysis of an incrustation with +which the water had covered a piece of wood lying on the rock: + +Carbonate of lime, ----------92.25 Carbonate of magnesia, ------ 1.21 + +Sulphate of lime,------} Chloride of calcium, }----- .23 Chloride of +magnesia,--} + +Silica, --------------------- 1.50 Vegetable matter, ----------- .20 +Moisture and loss, ---------- 4.61 + ______ + 100.00 + +At eleven o'clock, when the temperature of the air was 73°, that of the +water in this was 60.5°; and that of the upper spring, which issued +from the flat rock, more exposed to the sun, was 69°. At sunset, when +the temperature of the air was 66°, that of the lower springs was 58°, +and that of the upper 61°. + +19th.--A beautiful and clear morning, with a slight breeze from the +northwest; the temperature of the air at sunrise being 57.5°. At this +time the temperature of the lower spring was 57.8°, springs was 58°, +and that of the upper 54.3°. + +The trees in the neighborhood were birch, willow, pine, and an oak +resembling _quercus alba_. In the shrubbery along the river are currant +bushes, (_ribes_,) of which the fruit has a singular piny flavor; and +on the mountain side, in a red gravelly soil, is a remarkable +coniferous tree, (perhaps an _abies_,) having the leaves singularly +long, broad and scattered, with bushes of _spiraea ariaefolia_. By our +observations, this place is 6,350 feet above the sea, in latitude 38° +52' 10", and longitude 105° 22' 45". + +Resuming our journey on this morning, we descended the river, in order +to reach the mouth of the eastern fork, which I proposed to ascend. The +left bank of the river here is very much broken. There is a handsome +little bottom on the right, and both banks are exceedingly +picturesque--strata of red rock, in nearly perpendicular walls, +crossing the valley from north to south. About three miles below the +springs, on the right bank of the river, is a nearly perpendicular +limestone rock, presenting a uniformly unbroken surface, twenty to +forty feet high, containing very great numbers of a large univalve +shell; which appears to belong to the genus _inoceramus_. + +In contact with this, to the westward, was another, stratum of +limestone, containing fossil shells of a different character; and still +higher up on the stream were parallel strata, consisting of a compact +somewhat crystalline limestone, and argillaceous bituminous limestone +in thin layers. During the morning, we traveled up the eastern fork of +the _Fontaine-qui-bouit_ river, our road being roughened by frequent +deep gullies timbered with pine, and halted to noon on a small branch +of the stream, timbered principally with the narrow-leaved cottonwood, +(_populus angustifolia_,) called by the Canadians _liard amere_. On a +hill near by, were two remarkable columns of a grayish-white +conglomerate rock, one of which was about twenty feet high, and two +feet in diameter. They are surmounted by slabs of a dark ferruginous +conglomerate, forming black caps, and adding very much to their +columnar effect at a distance. This rock is very destructible by the +action of the weather, and the hill, of which they formerly constituted +a part, is entirely abraded. + +A shaft of the gun-carriage was broken in the afternoon; and we made an +early halt, the stream being from twelve to twenty feet wide, with +clear water. As usual, the clouds had gathered to a storm over the +mountains, and we had a showery evening. At sunset, the thermometer +stood at 62°, and our elevation above the sea was. 6,530 feet. + +20th.--This morning (as we generally found the mornings under these +mountains) was very clear and beautiful, and the air cool and pleasant, +with the thermometer at 44°. We continued our march up the stream, +along a green sloping bottom; between pine hills on the one hand; and +the main Black hills on the other; towards the ridge which separates +the waters of the Platte from those of the Arkansas. As we approached +the diving ridge, the whole valley was radiant with flowers; blue, +yellow, pink, white, scarlet; and purple, vie with each other in +splendor. Esparcette was one of the highly characteristic plants, and a +bright-looking flower (_gaillardia aristata_) was very frequent; but +the most abundant plant along our road today, was _geranium maculatum_, +which is the characteristic plant on this portion of the diving +grounds. Crossing to the waters of the Platte, fields of blue flax +added to the magnificence of this mountain garden; this was +occasionally four feet in height, which was a luxuriance of growth that +I rarely saw this almost universal plant attain throughout the journey. +Continuing down a branch of the Platte, among high and very steep +timbered hills, covered with fragments of sock, towards evening we +issued from the piny region, and made a late encampment near Poundcake +rock, on that fork of the river which we had ascended on the 8th of +July. Our animals enjoyed the abundant rushes this evening, as the +flies were so bad among the pines that they had been much harassed. A +deer was killed here this evening; and again the evening was overcast, +and a collection of brilliant red clouds in the west was followed by +the customary squall of rain. + +_Achillea millefolium_ (milfoil) was among the characteristic plants of +the river bottoms to-day. This was one of the most common plants during +the whole of our journey, occurring in almost every variety of +situation. I noticed it on the lowlands of the rivers, near the coast +of the Pacific, and near to the snow among the mountains of the _Sierra +Nevada_. + +During this excursion, we had surveyed to its head one of the two +principal branches of the upper Arkansas, 75 miles in length, and +entirely completed our survey of the South fork of the Platte, to the +extreme sources of that portion of the river which belongs to the +plains, and heads in the broken hills of the Arkansas dividing ridge, +at the foot of the mountains. That portion of its waters which were +collected among these mountains, it was hoped to explore on our +homeward voyage. + +Reaching St. Vrain's fort on the morning of the 23d, we found Mr. +Fitzpatrick and his party in good order and excellent health, and my +true and reliable friend, Kit Carson, who had brought with him ten good +mules, with the necessary pack-saddles. Mr. Fitzpatrick, who had often +endured every extremity of want during the course of his mountain life, +and knew well the value of provisions in this country, had watched over +our stock with jealous vigilance, and there was an abundance of flour, +rice, sugar, and coffee, in the camp; and again we fared luxuriously. +Meat was, however, very scarce; and two very small pigs, which we +obtained at the fort, did not go far among forty men. Mr. Fitzpatrick +had been here a week, during which time his men had been occupied in +refitting the camp; and the repose had been very beneficial to his +animals, which were now in tolerably good condition. + +I had been able to obtain no certain information in regard to the +character of the passes in this portion of the Rocky Mountain range, +which had always been represented as impracticable for carriages, but +the exploration of which was incidentally contemplated by my +instructions, with the view of finding some convenient point of passage +for the road of emigration, which would enable it to reach, on a more +direct line, the usual ford of the Great Colorado--a place considered +as determined by the nature of the country beyond that river. It is +singular, that immediately at the foot of the mountains, I could find +no one sufficiently acquainted with them to guide us to the plains at +their western base; but the race of trappers, who formerly lived in +their recesses, has almost entirely disappeared--dwindled to a few +scattered individuals--some one or two of whom are regularly killed in +the course of each year by the Indians. You will remember, that in the +previous year I brought with me to their village near this post, and +hospitably treated on the way, several Cheyenne Indians, whom I met on +the Lower Platte. Shortly after their arrival here, these were out with +a party of Indians, (themselves the principal men,) which discovered a +few trappers in the neighboring mountains, whom they immediately +murdered, although one of them had been nearly thirty years in the +country, and was perfectly well known, as he had grown gray among them. + +Through this portion of the mountains, also, are the customary roads of +the war parties going out against the Utah and Shoshonee Indians; and +occasionally parties from the Crow nation make their way down to the +southward along this chain, in the expectation of surprising some +straggling lodges of their enemies. Shortly before our arrival, one of +their parties had attacked an Arapaho village in the vicinity, which +they had found unexpectedly strong; and their assault was turned into a +rapid flight and a hot pursuit, in which they had been compelled to +abandon the animals they had rode and escape on their war-horses. + +Into this uncertain and dangerous region, small parties of three or +four trappers, who now could collect together, rarely ventured; and +consequently it was seldom visited and little known. Having determined +to try the passage by a pass through a spur of the mountains made by +the _Cache-à-la-Poudre_ river, which rises in the high bed of mountains +around Long's peak, I thought it advisable to avoid any encumbrance +which would occasion detention, and accordingly again separated the +party into two divisions--one of which, under the command of Mr. +Fitzpatrick, was directed to cross the plains to the mouth of Laramie +river, and, continuing thence its route along the usual emigrant road, +meet me at Fort Hall, a post belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, and +situated on Snake river, as it is commonly called in the Oregon +Territory, although better known to us as Lewis's fork of the Columbia. +The latter name is there restricted to one of the upper forks of the +river. + +Our Delaware Indians having determined to return to their homes, it +became necessary to provide this party with a good hunter; and I +accordingly engaged in that capacity Alexander Godey, a young man about +25 years of age, who had been in this country six or seven years, all +of which time had been actively employed in hunting for the support of +the posts, or in solitary trading expeditions among the Indians. In +courage and professional skill he was a formidable rival to Carson, and +constantly afterwards was among the best and most efficient of the +party, and in difficult situations was of incalculable value. Hiram +Powers, one of the men belonging to Mr. Fitzpatrick's party, was +discharged at this place. + +A French _engagé_, at Lupton's fort, had been shot in the back on the +4th of July, and died during our absence to the Arkansas. The wife of +the murdered man, an Indian woman of the Snake nation, desirous, like +Naomi of old, to return to her people, requested and obtained +permission to travel with my party to the neighborhood of Bear river, +where she expected to meet with some of their villages. Happier than +the Jewish widow, she carried with her two children, pretty little +half-breeds, who added much to the liveliness of the camp. Her baggage +was carried on five or six pack-horses; and I gave her a small tent, +for which I no longer had any use, as I had procured a lodge at the +fort. + +For my own party I selected the following men, a number of whom old +associations had rendered agreeable to me: + +Charles Preuss, Christopher Carson, Basil Lajeunesse, François Badeau, +J.B. Bernier, Louis Menard, Raphael Proue, Jacob Dodson, Louis Zindel, +Henry Lee, J.B. Derosier, François Lajeunesse, and Auguste Vasquez. + +By observation, the latitude of the post is 40° 16' 33", and its +longitude 105° 12' 23", depending, with all the other longitudes along +this portion of the line, upon a subsequent occultation of September +13, 1843, to which they are referred by the chronometer. Its distance +from Kansas landing, by the road we traveled, (which, it will be +remembered, was very winding along the lower Kansas river,) was 750 +miles. The rate of the chronometer, determined by observations at this +place for the interval of our absence, during this month, was 33.72"; +which you will hereafter see did not sensibly change during the ensuing +month, and remained nearly constant during the remainder of our journey +across the continent. This was the rate used in referring to St. +Vrain's fort, the longitude between that place and the mouth of the +_Fontaine-qui-bouit_. + +Our various barometrical observations, which are better worthy of +confidence than the isolated determination of 1842, give, for the +elevation of the fort above the sea, 4,930 feet. The barometer here +used was also a better one, and less liable to derangement. + +At the end of two days, which was allowed to my animals for necessary +repose, all the arrangements had been completed, and on the afternoon +of the 26th we resumed our respective routes. Some little trouble was +experienced in crossing the Platte, the waters of which were still kept +up by rains and melting snow; and having traveled only about four +miles, we encamped in the evening on Thompson's creek, where we were +very much disturbed by musquitoes. + +The following days we continued our march westward over comparative +plains, and, fording the Cache-à-la-Poudre on the morning of the 28th, +entered the Black hills, and nooned on this stream in the mountains +beyond them. Passing over a fine large bottom in the afternoon, we +reached a place where the river was shut up in the hills; and, +ascending a ravine, made a laborious and very difficult passage around +by a gap, striking the river again about dusk. A little labor, however, +would remove this difficulty, and render the road to this point a very +excellent one. The evening closed in dark with rain, and the mountains +looked gloomy. + +29th.--Leaving our encampment about seven in the morning, we traveled +until three in the afternoon along the river, which, for the distance +of about six miles, runs directly through a spur of the main mountains. + +We were compelled by the nature of the ground to cross the river eight +or nine times, at difficult, deep, and rocky fords, the stream running +with great force, swollen by the rains--a true mountain torrent, only +forty or fifty feet wide. It was a mountain valley of the narrowest +kind--almost a chasm--and the scenery very wild and beautiful. Towering +mountains rose round about; their sides sometimes dark with forests of +pine, and sometimes with lofty precipices, washed by the river; while +below, as if they indemnified themselves in luxuriance for the scanty +space, the green river-bottom was covered with a wilderness of flowers, +their tall spikes sometimes rising above our heads as we rode among +them. A profusion of blossoms on a white flowering vine, (_clematis +lasianthi_) which was abundant along the river, contrasted handsomely +with the green foliage of the trees. The mountains appeared to be +composed of a greenish-gray and red granite, which in some places +appeared to be in a state of decomposition, making a red soil. + +The stream was wooded with cottonwood, box-elder, and cherry, with +currant and serviceberry bushes. After a somewhat laborious day, during +which it had rained incessantly, we encamped near the end of the pass +at the mouth of a small creek, in sight of the great Laramie plains. It +continued to rain heavily, and at evening the mountains were hid in +mists; but there was no lack of wood, and the large fires we made to +dry our clothes were very comfortable; and at night the hunters came in +with a fine deer. Rough and difficult as we found the pass to-day, an +excellent road may be made with a little labor. Elevation of the camp +5,540 feet, and distance from St. Vrain's fort 56 miles. + +30th.--The day was bright again; the thermometer at sunrise 52°; and +leaving our encampment at eight o'clock, in about half a mile we +crossed the _Cache-à-la-Poudre_ river for the last time; and, entering +a smoother country, we traveled along a kind of _vallon_, bounded on +the right by red buttes and precipices; while to the left a high +rolling country extended to a range of the Black hills, beyond which +rose the great mountains around Long's peak. + +By the great quantity of snow visible among them, it had probably +snowed heavily there the previous day, while it had rained on us in the +valley. + +We halted at noon on a small branch; and in the afternoon traveled over +a high country, gradually ascending towards a range of _buttes_, or +high hills covered with pines, which forms the dividing ridge between +the waters we had left and those of Laramie river. + +Late in the evening we encamped at a spring of cold water, near the +summit of the ridge, having increased our elevation to 7,520 feet. +During the day we had traveled 24 miles. By some indifferent +observations, our latitude is 41° 02' 19". A species of _hedeome_ was +characteristic along the whole day's route. + +Emerging from the mountains, we entered a region of bright, fair +weather. In my experience in this country, I was forcibly impressed +with the different character of the climate on opposite sides of the +Rocky Mountain range. The vast prairie plain on the east is like the +ocean; the rain and clouds from the constantly evaporating snow of the +mountains rushing down into the heated air of the plains, on which you +will have occasion to remark the frequent storms of rain we encountered +during our journey. + +31st.--The morning was clear; temperature 48°. A fine rolling road, +among piny and grassy hills, brought us this morning into a large trail +where an Indian village had recently passed. The weather was pleasant +and cool; we were disturbed by neither musquitoes nor flies; and the +country was certainly extremely beautiful. The slopes and broad ravines +were absolutely covered with fields of flowers of the most exquisitely +beautiful colors. Among those which had not hitherto made their +appearance, and which here were characteristic, was a new _delphinium_, +of a green and lustrous metallic blue color, mingled with compact +fields of several bright-colored varieties of _astragalus_, which were +crowded together in splendid profusion. This trail conducted us, +through a remarkable defile, to a little timbered creek, up which we +wound our way, passing by a singular and massive wall of dark-red +granite. The formation of the country is a red feldspathic granite, +overlaying a decomposing mass of the same rock, forming the soil of all +this region, which everywhere is red and gravelly, and appears to be of +a great floral fertility. + +As we emerged on a small tributary of the Laramie river, coming in +sight of its principal stream, the flora became perfectly magnificent; +and we congratulated ourselves, as we rode along our pleasant road; +that we had substituted this for the uninteresting country between +Laramie hills and the Sweet Water valley. We had no meat for supper +last night or breakfast this morning, and were glad to see Carson come +in at noon with a good antelope. + +A meridian observation of the sun placed us in latitude 41° 04' 06". In +the evening we encamped on the Laramie river, which is here very thinly +timbered with scattered groups of cottonwood at considerable intervals. +From our camp, we are able to distinguish the gorges, in which are the +sources of Cache-à-la-Poudre and Laramie rivers; and the Medicine Bow +mountain, towards the point of which we are directing our course this +afternoon, has been in sight the greater part of the day. By +observation the latitude was 41° 15' 02", and longitude 106° 16' 54". +The same beautiful flora continued till about four in the afternoon, +when it suddenly disappeared, with the red soil, which became sandy, +and of a whitish-gray color. The evening was tolerably clear; +temperature at sunset 64°. The day's journey was 30 miles. + + + +AUGUST. + + +1st.--The morning was calm and clear, with sunrise temperature at 42°. +We traveled to-day over a plain, or open rolling country, at the foot +of the Medicine Bow mountain; the soil in the morning being sandy, with +fragments of rock abundant, and in the afternoon, when we approached +closer to the mountain, so stony that we made but little way. The +beautiful plants of yesterday reappeared occasionally; flax in bloom +occurred during the morning, and esparcette in luxuriant abundance was +a characteristic of the stony ground in the afternoon. The camp was +roused into a little excitement by a chase after a buffalo bull, and an +encounter with a war party of Sioux and Cheyenne Indians about 30 +strong. Hares and antelope were seen during the day, and one of the +latter was killed. The Laramie peak was in sight this afternoon. The +evening was clear, with scattered clouds; temperature 62°. The day's +journey was 26 miles. + +2d.--Temperature at sunrise 52°, and scenery and weather made our road +to-day delightful. The neighboring mountain is thickly studded with +pines, intermingled with the brighter foliage of aspens, and occasional +spots like lawns between the patches of snow among the pines, and here +and there on the heights. Our route below lay over a comparative plain, +covered with the same brilliant vegetation, and the day was clear and +pleasantly cool. During the morning, we crossed many streams, clear and +rocky, and broad grassy valleys, of a strong black soil, washed down +from the mountains, and producing excellent pasturage. These were +timbered with the red willow and long-leaved cottonwood, mingled with +aspen, as we approached the mountain more nearly towards noon. +_Esparcette_ was a characteristic, and flax occurred frequently in +bloom. We halted at noon on the most western fork of Laramie river--a +handsome stream about sixty feet wide and two feet deep, with clear +water and a swift current, over a bed composed entirely of boulders or +roll-stones. There was a large open bottom here, on which were many +lodge poles lying about: and in the edge of the surrounding timber were +three strong forts, that appeared to have been recently occupied. At +this place I became first acquainted with the _yampah_, (_anethum +graveolens_,) which I found our Snake woman engaged in digging in the +low timbered bottom of the creek. Among the Indians along the Rocky +Mountains, and more particularly among the Shoshonee or Snake Indians, +in whose territory it is very abundant, this is considered the best +among the roots used for food. To us it was an interesting plant--a +little link between the savage and civilized life. Here, among the +Indians, its root is a common article of food, which they take pleasure +in offering to strangers; while with us, in a considerable portion of +America and Europe, the seeds are used to flavor soup. It grows more +abundantly, and in greater luxuriance, on one of the neighboring +tributaries of the Colorado, than in any other part of this region; and +on that stream, to which the Snakes are accustomed to resort every year +to procure a supply of their favorite plant, they have bestowed the +name of _Yampah_ river. Among the trappers it is generally known as +Little Snake river; but in this and other instances, where it +illustrated the history of the people inhabiting the country, I have +preferred to retain on the map the aboriginal name. By a meridional +observation, the latitude is 41° 45' 59" + +In the afternoon we took our way directly across the spurs from the +point of the mountain, where we had several ridges to cross; and, +although the road was not rendered bad by the nature of the ground, it +was made extremely rough by the stiff tough bushes of _artemisia +tridentata_, [Footnote: The greater portion of our subsequent journey +was through a region where this shrub constituted the tree of the +country; and, as it will often be mentioned in occasional descriptions, +the word _artemisia_ only will be used, without the specific name.] in +this country commonly called sage. + +This shrub now began to make its appearance in compact fields; and we +were about to quit for a long time this country of excellent pasturage +and brilliant flowers. Ten or twelve buffalo bulls were seen during the +afternoon; and we were surprised by the appearance of a large red ox. +We gathered around him as if he had been an old acquaintance, with all +our domestic feelings as much awakened as if we had come in sight of an +old farm-house. He had probably made his escape from some party of +emigrants on Green river; and, with a vivid remembrance of some old +green field, be was pursuing the straightest course for the frontier +that the country admitted. We carried him along with us as a prize; +and, when it was found in the morning that he had wandered off, I would +not let him be pursued, for I would rather have gone through a starving +time of three entire days, than let him be killed after he had +successfully run the gauntlet so far among the Indians. I have been +told by Mr. Bent's people of an ox born and raised at St. Vrain's fort, +which made his escape from them at Elm grove, near the frontier, having +come in that year with the wagons. They were on their way out, and saw +occasionally places where he had eaten and laid down to rest; but did +not see him for about 700 miles, when they overtook him on the road, +traveling along to the fort, having unaccountably escaped Indians and +every other mischance. + +We encamped at evening on the principal fork of Medicine Bow river, +near to an isolated mountain called the Medicine _Butte_, which +appeared to be about 1,800 feet above the plain, from which it rises +abruptly, and was still white, nearly to its base, with a great +quantity of snow. The streams were timbered with the long-leaved, +cottonwood and red willow; and during the afternoon a species of onion +was very abundant. I obtained here an immersion of the first satellite +of Jupiter, which, corresponding very nearly with the chronometer, +placed us in longitude 106° 47' 25". The latitude, by observation, was +41° 37' 16"; elevation above the sea, 7,800 feet, and distance from St. +Vrain's fort, 147 miles. + +3d.--There was a white frost last night; the morning is clear and cool. +We were early on the road, having breakfasted before sunrise, and in a +few miles' travel entered the pass of the Medicine _Butte_, through +which led a broad trail, which had been recently traveled by a very +large party. Immediately in the pass, the road was broken by ravines, +and we were obliged to clear a way through groves of aspens, which +generally made their appearance when we reached elevated regions. +According to the barometer, this was 8,300 feet; and while we were +detained in opening a road, I obtained a meridional observation of the +sun, which gave 41° 35' 48" for the latitude of the pass. The Medicine +_Butte_ is isolated by a small tributary of the North fork of the +Platte, but the mountains approach each other very nearly; the stream +running at their feet. On the south they are smooth, with occasional +streaks of pine; but the butte itself is ragged, with escarpments of +red feldspathic granite, and dark with pines; the snow reaching from +the summit to within a few hundred feet of the trail. The granite here +was more compact and durable than that in the formation which we had +passed through a few days before to the eastward of Laramie. Continuing +our way over a plain on the west side of the pass, where the road was +terribly rough with artemisia, we made our evening encampment on the +creek, where it took a northern direction, unfavorably to the course we +were pursuing. Bands of buffalo were discovered as we came down upon +the plain; and Carson brought into the camp a cow which had the fat on +the fleece two inches thick. Even in this country of rich pasturage and +abundant game, it is rare that a hunter chances upon a finer animal. +Our voyage had already been long, but this was the first good buffalo +meat we had obtained. We traveled to-day 26 miles. + +4th.--The morning was clear and calm; and, leaving the creek, we +traveled towards the North fork of the Platte, over a plain which was +rendered rough and broken by ravines. With the exception of some thin +grasses, the sandy soil here was occupied almost exclusively by +artemisia, with its usual turpentine odor. We had expected to meet with +some difficulty in crossing the river, but happened to strike it where +there was a very excellent ford, and halted to noon on the left bank, +two hundred miles from St. Vrain's fort. The hunters brought in +pack-animals loaded with fine meat. According to our imperfect +knowledge of the country, there should have been a small affluent to +this stream a few miles higher up; and in the afternoon we continued +our way among the river hills, in the expectation of encamping upon it +in the evening. The ground proved to be so exceedingly difficult, +broken up into hills, terminating in escarpments and broad ravines, +five hundred or six hundred feet deep, with sides so precipitous that +we could scarcely find a place to descend, that, towards sunset, I +turned directly in towards the river, and, after nightfall, entered a +sort of ravine. We were obliged to feel our way, and clear a road in +the darkness; the surface being much broken, and the progress of the +carriages being greatly obstructed by the artemisia, which had a +luxuriant growth of four to six feet in height. We had scrambled along +this gulley for several hours, during which we had knocked off the +carriage-lamps, broken a thermometer and several small articles, when, +fearing to lose something of more importance, I halted for the night at +ten o'clock. Our animals were turned down towards the river, that they +might pick up what little grass they could find; and after a little +search, some water was found in a small ravine, and improved by +digging. We lighted up the ravine with fires of artemisia, and about +midnight sat down to a supper which we were hungry enough to find +delightful--although the buffalo-meat was crusted with sand, and the +coffee was bitter with the wormwood taste of the artemisia leaves. + +A successful day's hunt had kept our hunters occupied until late, and +they slept out, but rejoined us at daybreak, when, finding ourselves +only about a mile from the river, we followed the ravine down, and +camped in a cottonwood grove on a beautiful grassy bottom, where our +animals indemnified themselves for the scanty fare of the past night. +It was quite a pretty and pleasant place; a narrow strip of prairie, +about five hundred yards long, terminated at the ravine where we +entered by high precipitous hills closing in upon the river, and at the +upper end by a ridge of low rolling hills. + +In the precipitous bluffs were displayed a succession of strata +containing fossil vegetable remains, and several beds of coal. In some +of the beds the coal did not appear to be perfectly mineralized, and in +some of the seams it was compact, and remarkably lustrous. In these +latter places, there were also thin layers of a very fine white salts, +in powder. As we had a large supply of meat in the camp, which it was +necessary to dry, and the surrounding country appeared to be well +stocked with buffalo, which it was probable, after a day or two, we +would not see again until our return to the Mississippi waters, I +determined to make here a provision of dried meat, which would be +necessary for our subsistence in the region we were about entering, +which was said to be nearly destitute of game. Scaffolds were +accordingly soon erected, fires made, and the meat cut into thin slices +to be dried; and all were busily occupied, when the camp was thrown +into a sudden tumult, by a charge from about seventy mounted Indians, +over the low hills at the upper end of the little bottom. Fortunately, +the guard, who was between them and our animals, had caught a glimpse +of an Indian's head, as he raised himself in his stirrups to look over +the hill, a moment before he made the charge, and succeeded in turning +the band into the camp, as the Indians charged into the bottom with the +usual yell. Before they reached us, the grove on the verge of the +little bottom was occupied by our people, and the Indians brought to a +sudden halt, which they made in time to save themselves from a howitzer +shot, which would undoubtedly have been very effective in such a +compact body; and further proceedings were interrupted by their signs +for peace. They proved to be a war party of Arapaho and Cheyenne +Indians, and informed us that they had charged upon the camp under the +belief that we were hostile Indians, and had discovered their mistake +only at the moment of the attack--an excuse which policy required us to +receive as true, though under the full conviction that the display of +our little howitzer, and our favorable position in the grove, certainly +saved our horses, and probably ourselves, from their marauding +intentions. They had been on a war party, and had been defeated, and +were consequently in the state of mind which aggravates their innate +thirst for plunder and blood. Their excuse, however, was taken in good +part, and the usual evidences of friendship interchanged. The pipe went +round, provisions were spread, and the tobacco and goods furnished the +customary presents, which they look for even from traders, and much +more from government authorities. + +They were returning from an expedition against the Shoshonee Indians, +one of whose villages they had surprised, at Bridger's fort, on Ham's +fork of Green river, (in the absence of the men, who were engaged in an +antelope surround,) and succeeded in carrying off their horses, and +taking several scalps. News of the attack reached the Snakes +immediately, who pursued and overtook them, and recovered their horses; +and, in the running fight which ensued, the Arapahoes had lost several +men killed, and a number wounded, who were coming on more slowly with a +party in the rear. Nearly all the horses they had brought off were the +property of the whites at the fort. After remaining until nearly +sunset, they took their departure; and the excitement which their +arrival had afforded subsided into our usual quiet, a little enlivened +by the vigilance rendered necessary by the neighborhood of our +uncertain visiters. At noon the thermometer was at 75°, at sunset 70°, +and the evening clear. Elevation above the sea 6,820 feet; latitude 41° +36' 00"; longitude 107° 22' 27". + +6th.--At sunrise the thermometer was 46°, the morning being clear and +calm. We traveled to-day over an extremely rugged country, barren and +uninteresting--nothing to be seen but artemisia bushes; and, in the +evening, found a grassy spot among the hills, kept green by several +springs, where we encamped late. Within a few hundred yards was a very +pretty little stream of clear cool water, whose green banks looked +refreshing among the dry, rocky hills. The hunters brought in a fat +mountain sheep, (_ovis montana_.) + +Our road the next day was through a continued and dense field of +_artemisia_, which now entirely covered the country in such a luxuriant +growth that it was difficult and laborious for a man on foot to force +his way through, and nearly impracticable for our light carriages. The +region through which we were traveling was a high plateau, constituting +the dividing ridge between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific +oceans, and extending to a considerable distance southward, from the +neighborhood of the Table rock, at the southern side of the South Pass. +Though broken up into rugged and rocky hills of a dry and barren +nature, it has nothing of a mountainous character; the small streams +which occasionally occur belonging neither to the Platte nor the +Colorado, but losing themselves either in the sand or in small lakes. +From an eminence, in the afternoon, a mountainous range became visible +in the north, in which were recognised some rocky peaks belonging to +the range of the Sweet Water valley; and, determining to abandon any +further attempt to struggle through this almost impracticable country, +we turned our course directly north, towards a pass in the valley of +the Sweet Water river. A shaft of the gun-carriage was broken during +the afternoon, causing a considerable delay; and it was late in an +unpleasant evening before we succeeded in finding a very poor +encampment, where there was a little water in a deep trench of a creek, +and some scanty grass among the shrubs. All the game here consisted of +a few straggling buffalo bulls, and during the day there had been but +very little grass, except in some green spots where it had collected +around springs or shallow lakes. Within fifty miles of the Sweet Water, +the country changed into a vast saline plain, in many places extremely +level, occasionally resembling the flat sandy beds of shallow lakes. +Here the vegetation consisted of a shrubby growth, among which were +several varieties of _chenopodiaceous_ plants; but the characteristic +shrub was _Fremontia vermicularis_, with smaller saline shrubs growing +with singular luxuriance, and in many places holding exclusive +possession of the ground. + +On the evening of the 8th we encamped on one of these fresh-water +lakes, which the traveler considers himself fortunate to find; and the +next day, in latitude, by observation, 42° 20' 06", halted to noon +immediately at the foot of the southern side of the range which walls +in the Sweet Water valley, on the head of a small tributary to that +river. + +Continuing in the afternoon our course down the stream, which here cuts +directly through the ridge, forming a very practicable pass, we entered +the valley; and, after a march of about nine miles, encamped on our +familiar river, endeared to us by the acquaintance of the previous +expedition--the night having already closed in with a cold rain-storm. +Our camp was about twenty miles above the Devil's gate, which we had +been able to see in coming down the plain; and, in the course of the +night, the clouds broke away around Jupiter for a short time; during +which we obtained an emersion of the first satellite, the result of +which agreed very nearly with the chronometer, giving for the mean +longitude 107° 50' 07"; elevation above the sea 6,040 feet; and +distance from St. Vrain's fort, by the road we had Just traveled, 315 +miles. + +Here passes the road to Oregon; and the broad smooth highway, where the +numerous heavy wagons of the emigrants had entirely beaten and crushed +the artemisia, was a happy exchange to our poor animals, for the sharp +rocks and tough shrubs among which they had been toiling so long; and +we moved up the valley rapidly and pleasantly. With very little +deviation from our route of the preceding year, we continued up the +valley; and on the evening of the 12th encamped on the Sweet Water, at +a point where the road turns off to cross to the plains of Green river. +The increased coolness of the weather indicated that we had attained a +greater elevation, which the barometer here placed at 7,220 feet; and +during the night water froze in the lodge. + +The morning of the 13th was clear and cold, there being a white-frost, +and the thermometer, a little before sunrise, standing at 26.5°. +Leaving this encampment, (our last on the waters which flow towards the +rising sun,) we took our way along the upland, towards the dividing +ridge which separates the Atlantic from the Pacific waters, and crossed +it by a road some miles further south than the one we had followed on +our return in 1842. We crossed very near the Table mountain, at the +southern extremity of the South Pass, which is near twenty miles in +width, and already traversed by several different roads. Selecting, as +well as I could, in the scarcely distinguishable ascent, what might be +considered the dividing ridge in this remarkable depression in the +mountain, I took a barometrical observation, which gave 7,490 feet for +the elevation above the Gulf of Mexico. You will remember that, in my +report of 1842, I estimated the elevation of this pass at about 7,000 +feet; a correct observation with a good barometer enables me to give it +with more precision. Its importance, as the great gate through which +commerce and traveling may hereafter pass between the valley of the +Mississippi and the North Pacific, justifies a precise notice of its +locality and distance from leading points, in addition to this +statement of its elevation. As stated in the report of 1842, its +latitude, at the point where we crossed, is 42° 24' 32"; its longitude +109° 26' 00"; its distance from the mouth of the Kansas, by the common +traveling route, 962 miles; from the mouth of the Great Platte, along +the valley of that river, according to our survey of 1842, 882 miles; +and its distance from St. Louis about 400 miles more by the Kansas, and +about 700 by the Great Platte route; these additions being steamboat +conveyance in both instances. From this pass to the mouth of the Oregon +is about 1,400 miles by the common traveling route; so that under a +general point of view, it may be assumed to be about half-way between +the Mississippi and the Pacific ocean, on the common traveling route. +Following a hollow of slight and easy descent, in which was very soon +formed a little tributary to the Gulf of California, (for the waters +which flow west from the South Pass go to this gulf,) we made our usual +halt four miles from the pass, in latitude, by observation, 42° 19' +53". Entering here the valley of Green river--the great Colorado of the +West--and inclining very much to the southward along the streams which +form the Sandy river, the road led for several days over dry and level +uninteresting plains; to which a low scrubby growth of artemisia gave a +uniform dull grayish color; and on the evening of the 15th we encamped +in the Mexican territory, on the left bank of Green river, 69 miles +from the South Pass, in longitude 110° 05' 05", and latitude 41° 53' +54", distant 1,031 miles from the mouth of the Kansas. This is the +emigrant road to Oregon, which bears much to the southward, to avoid +the mountains about the western heads of Green river--the _Rio Verde_ +of the Spaniards. + +16th.--Crossing the river, here about 400 feet wide, by a very good +ford, we continued to descend for seven or eight miles on a pleasant +road along the right bank of the stream, of which the islands and +shores are handsomely timbered with cottonwood. The refreshing +appearance of the broad river, with its timbered shores and green +wooded islands, in contrast to its dry and sandy plains, probably +obtained for it the name of Green river, which was bestowed on it by +the Spaniards who first came into this country to trade some 25 years +ago. It was then familiarly known as the Seeds-ke-dee-agie, or Prairie +Hen (_tetrao urophasianus_) river; a name which it received from the +Crows, to whom its upper waters belong, and on which this bird is still +very abundant. By the Shoshonee and Utah Indians, to whom belongs, for +a considerable distance below, the country where we were now traveling, +it was called the Bitter Root river, from a great abundance in its +valley of a plant which affords them one of their favorite roots. Lower +down, from Brown's hole to the southward, the river runs through lofty +chasms, walled in by precipices of _red_ rock; and even among the +wilder tribes which inhabit that portion of its course, I have heard it +called by Indian refugees from the California settlements the Rio +_Colorado_. We halted to noon at the upper end of a large bottom, near +some old houses, which had been a trading post, in lat. 41° 46' 54". At +this place the elevation of the river above the sea is 6,230 feet. That +of Lewis's fork of the Columbia at Fort Hall is, according to our +subsequent observations, 4,500 feet. The descent of each stream is +rapid, but that of the Colorado is but little known, and that little +derived from vague report. Three hundred miles of its lower part, as it +approaches the Gulf of California, is reported to be smooth and +tranquil; but its upper part is manifestly broken into many falls and +rapids. From many descriptions of trappers, it is probable that in its +foaming course among its lofty precipices it presents many scenes of +wild grandeur; and though offering many temptations, and often +discussed, no trappers have been found bold enough to undertake a +voyage which has so certain a prospect of a fatal termination. The +Indians have strange stories of beautiful valleys abounding with +beaver, shut up among inaccessible walls of rock in the lower course of +the river; and to which the neighboring Indians, in their occasional +wars with the Spaniards and among themselves, drive their herds of +cattle and flocks of sheep, leaving them to pasture in perfect security. + +The road here leaves the river, which bends considerably to the east; +and in the afternoon we resumed our westerly course, passing over a +somewhat high and broken country; and about sunset, after a day's +travel of 26 miles, reached Black's fork of the Green river--a shallow +stream, with a somewhat sluggish current, about 120 feet wide, timbered +principally with willow, and here and there an occasional large tree. +At three in the morning I obtained an observation of an emersion of the +first satellite of Jupiter, with other observations. The heavy wagons +have so completely pulverized the soil, that clouds of fine light dust +are raised by the slightest wind, making the road sometimes very +disagreeable. + +17th.--Leaving our encampment at six in the morning, we traveled along +the bottom, which is about two miles wide, bordered by low hills, in +which the strata contained handsome and very distinct vegetable +fossils. In a gully a short distance farther up the river, and +underlying these, was exposed a stratum of an impure or argillaceous +limestone. Crossing on the way Black's fork, where it is one foot deep +and forty wide, with clear water and a pebbly bed, in nine miles we +reached Ham's fork, a tributary to the former stream, having now about +sixty feet breadth, and a few inches depth of water. It is wooded with +thickets of red willow, and in the bottom is a tolerably strong growth +of grass. The road here makes a traverse of twelve miles across a bend +of the river. Passing in the way some remarkable hills, two or three +hundred feet high, with frequent and nearly vertical escarpments of a +green stone, consisting of an argillaceous carbonate of lime, +alternating with strata of an iron-brown limestone, and worked into +picturesque forms by wind and rain, at two in the afternoon we reached +the river again, having made to-day 21 miles. Since crossing the great +dividing ridge of the Rocky mountains, plants have been very few in +variety, the country being covered principally with artemisia. + +18th.--We passed on the road, this morning, the grave of one of the +emigrants, being the second we had seen since falling into their trail; +and halted to noon on the river, a short distance above. + +The Shoshonee woman took leave of us here, expecting to find some of +her relations at Bridger's fort, which is only a mile or two distant, +on a fork of this stream. In the evening we encamped on a salt creek, +about fifteen feet wide, having to-day traveled 32 miles. + +I obtained an emersion of the first satellite under favorable +circumstances, the night being still and clear. + +One of our mules died here, and in this portion of our journey we lost +six or seven of our animals. The grass which the country had lately +afforded was very poor and insufficient; and animals which have been +accustomed to grain become soon weak and unable to labor, when reduced +to no other nourishment than grass. The American horses (as those are +usually called which are brought to this country from the States) are +not of any serviceable value until after they have remained a winter in +the country, and become accustomed to live entirely on grass. + +19th.--Desirous to avoid every delay not absolutely necessary, I sent +on Carson in advance to Fort Hall this morning, to make arrangements +for a small supply of provisions. A few miles from our encampment, the +road entered a high ridge, which the trappers called the "little +mountain," connecting the Utah with the Wind River chain; and in one of +the hills near which we passed I remarked strata of a conglomerate +formation, fragments of which were scattered over the surface. We +crossed a ridge of this conglomerate, the road passing near a grove of +low cedar, and descending upon one of the heads of Ham's fork, called +Muddy, where we made our mid-day halt. In the river hills at this +place, I discovered strata of fossiliferous rock, having an _oolitic +structure_, which, in connection with the neighboring strata, authorize +us to believe that here, on the west side of the Rocky mountains, we +find repeated the modern formations of Great Britain and Europe, which +have hitherto been wanting to complete the system of North American +geology. + +In the afternoon we continued our road, and searching among the hills a +few miles up the stream, and on the same bank, I discovered, among the +alternate beds of coal and clay, a stratum of white indurated clay, +containing very clear and beautiful impressions of vegetable remains. +This was the most interesting fossil locality I had met in the country, +and I deeply regretted that time did not permit me to remain a day or +two in the vicinity; but I could not anticipate the delays to which I +might be exposed in the course of our journey--or, rather, I knew that +they were many and inevitable; and after remaining here only about an +hour, I hurried off, loaded with as many specimens as I could +conveniently carry. + +Coal made its appearance occasionally in the hills during the +afternoon, and was displayed in rabbit burrows in a kind of gap, +through which we passed over some high hills, and we descended to make +our encampment on the same stream, where we found but very poor grass. +In the evening a fine cow, with her calf, which had strayed off from +some emigrant party, was found several miles from the road, and brought +into camp; and as she gave an abundance of milk, we enjoyed to-night an +excellent cup of coffee. We traveled to-day 28 miles, and, as has been +usual since crossing the Green river, the road has been very dusty, and +the weather smoky and oppressively hot. Artemisia was characteristic +among the few plants. + +20th.--We continued to travel up the creek by a very gradual ascent and +a very excellent grassy road, passing on the way several small forks of +the stream. The hills here are higher, presenting escarpments of +party-colored and apparently clay rocks, purple, dark-red, and yellow, +containing strata of sandstone and limestone with shells, with a bed of +cemented pebbles, the whole overlaid by beds of limestone. The +alternation of red and yellow gives a bright appearance to the hills, +one of which was called by our people the Rainbow hill, and the +character of the country became more agreeable, and traveling far more +pleasant, as now we found timber and very good grass. Gradually +ascending, we reached the lower level of a bed of white limestone, +lying upon a white clay, on the upper line of which the whole road is +abundantly supplied with beautiful cool springs, gushing out a foot in +breadth and several inches deep, directly from the hill-side. + +At noon we halted at the last main fork of the creek, at an elevation +of 7,200 feet, and in latitude, by observation, 41° 39' 45"; and in the +afternoon continued on the same excellent road, up the left or northern +fork of the stream, towards its head, in a pass which the barometer +placed at 8,230 feet above the sea. This is a connecting ridge between +the Utah or Bear River mountains and the Wind River chain of the Rocky +mountains, separating the waters of the Gulf of California on the east, +and those on the west belonging more directly to the Pacific, from a +vast interior basin whose rivers are collected into numerous lakes +having no outlet to the ocean. From the summit of this pass, the +highest which the road crosses between the Mississippi and the Western +ocean, our view was over a very mountainous region, whose rugged +appearance was greatly increased by the smoky weather, through which +the broken ridges were dark and dimly seen. The ascent to the summit of +the gap was occasionally steeper than the national road in the +Alleghanies; and the descent, by way of a spur on the western side, is +rather precipitous, but the pass may still be called a good one. Some +thickets of the willow in the hollows below deceived us into the +expectation of finding a camp at our usual hour at the foot of the +mountain; but we found them without water, and continued down a ravine, +and encamped about dark at a place where the springs began again to +make their appearance, but where our animals fared badly; the stock of +the emigrants having razed the grass as completely as if we were again +in the midst of the buffalo. + +21st.--An hour's travel this morning brought us into the fertile and +picturesque valley of Bear river, the principal tributary to the Great +Salt lake. The stream is here two hundred feet wide, fringed with +willows and occasional groups of hawthorns. We were now entering a +region which, for us, possessed a strange and extraordinary interest. +We were upon the waters of the famous lake which forms a salient point +among the remarkable geographical features of the country, and around +which the vague and superstitious accounts of the trappers had thrown a +delightful obscurity, which we anticipated pleasure in dispelling, but +which, in the mean time, left a crowded field for the exercise of our +imagination. + +In our occasional conversations with the few old hunters who had +visited the region, it had been a subject of frequent speculation; and +the wonders which they related were not the less agreeable because they +were highly exaggerated and impossible. + +Hitherto this lake had been seen only by trappers who were wandering +through the country in search of new beaver-streams, caring very little +for geography; its islands had never been visited; and none were to be +found who had entirely made the circuit of its shores; and no +instrumental observations or geographical survey, of any description, +had ever been made anywhere in the neighboring region. It was generally +supposed that it had no visible outlet; but among the trappers, +including those in my own camp, were many who believed that somewhere +on its surface was a terrible whirlpool, through which its waters found +their way to the ocean by some subterranean communication. All these +things had made a frequent subject of discussion in our desultory +conversations around the fires at night; and my own mind had become +tolerably well filled with their indefinite pictures, and insensibly +colored with their romantic descriptions, which, in the pleasure of +excitement, I was well disposed to believe, and half expected to +realize. + +Where we descended into this beautiful valley, it is three to four +miles in breadth, perfectly level, and bounded by mountainous ridges, +one above another, rising suddenly from the plain. + +We continued our road down the river, and at night encamped with a +family of emigrants--two men, women, and several children--who appeared +to be bringing up the rear of the great caravan. I was struck with the +fine appearance of their cattle, some six or eight yoke of oxen, which +really looked as well as if they had been all the summer at work on +some good farm. It was strange to see one small family traveling along +through such a country, so remote from civilization. Some nine years +since, such a security might have been a fatal one, but since their +disastrous defeats in the country a little north, the Blackfeet have +ceased to visit these waters. Indians however, are very uncertain in +their localities; and the friendly feelings, also, of those now +inhabiting it may be changed. + +According to barometrical observation at noon, the elevation Of the +valley was 6,400 feet above the sea; and our encampment at night in +latitude 42° 03' 47", and longitude 111° 10' 53", by observation--the +day's journey having been 26 miles. This encampment was therefore +within the territorial limit of the United States; our traveling, from +the time we entered the valley of the Green river, on the 15th of +August, having been south of the 42d degree of north latitude, and +consequently on Mexican territory; and this is the route all the +emigrants now travel to Oregon. + +The temperature at sunset was 65°; and at evening there was a distant +thunder-storm, with a light breeze from the north. + +Antelope and elk were seen during the day on the opposite prairie; and +there were ducks and geese in the river. + +The next morning, in about three miles from our encampment, we reached +Smith's fork, a stream of clear water, about 50 feet in breadth. It is +timbered with cottonwood, willow, and aspen, and makes a beautiful +debouchement through a pass about 600 yards wide, between remarkable +mountain hills, rising abruptly on either side, and forming gigantic +columns to the gate by which it enters Bear River valley. The bottoms, +which below Smith's fork had been two miles wide, narrowed as we +advanced to a gap 500 yards wide, and during the greater part of the +day we had a winding route, the river making very sharp and sudden +bends, the mountains steep and rocky, and the valley occasionally so +narrow as only to leave space for a passage through. + +We made our halt at noon in a fertile bottom, where the common blue +flax was growing abundantly, a few miles below the mouth of Thomas's +fork, one of the larger tributaries of the river. + +Crossing, in the afternoon, the point of a narrow spur, we descended +into a beautiful bottom, formed by a lateral valley, which presented a +picture of home beauty that went directly to our hearts. The edge of +the wood, for several miles along the river, was dotted with the white +covers of emigrant wagons, collected in groups at different camps, +where the smoke was rising lazily from the fires, around which the +women were occupied in preparing the evening meal, and the children +playing in the grass; and herds of cattle, grazing about in the bottom, +had an air of quiet security, and civilized comfort, that made a rare +sight for the traveler in such a remote wilderness. + +In common with all the emigration, they had been reposing for several +days in this delightful valley, in order to recruit their animals on +its luxuriant pasturage after their long journey, and prepare them for +the hard travel along the comparatively sterile banks of the Upper +Columbia. At the lower end of this extensive bottom, the river passes +through an open canon, where there were high vertical rocks to the +water's edge, and the road here turns up a broad valley to the right. +It was already near sunset; but, hoping to reach the river again before +night, we continued our march along the valley, finding the road +tolerably good, until we arrived at a point where it crosses the ridge +by an ascent of a mile in length, which was so very steep and difficult +for the gun and carriage, that we did not reach the summit until dark. + +It was absolutely necessary to descend into the valley for water and +grass; and we were obliged to grope our way in the darkness down a very +steep, bad mountain, reaching the river at about ten o'clock. It was +late before our animals were gathered into the camp, several of those +which were very weak being necessarily left to pass the night on the +ridge; and we sat down again to a midnight supper. The road, in the +morning, presented an animated appearance. We found that we had +encamped near a large party of emigrants; and a few miles below, +another party was already in motion. Here the valley had resumed its +usual breadth, and the river swept off along the mountains on the +western side, the road continuing directly on. + +In about an hour's travel we met several Shoshonee Indians, who +informed us that they belonged to a large village which had just come +into the valley from the mountain to the westward, where they had been +hunting antelope and gathering service-berries. Glad at the opportunity +of seeing one of their villages, and in the hope of purchasing from +them a few horses, I turned immediately off into the plain towards +their encampment, which was situated on a small stream near the river. + +We had approached within something more than a mile of the village, +when suddenly a single horseman emerged from it at full speed, followed +by another and another in rapid succession; and then party after party +poured into the plain, until, when the foremost rider reached us, all +the whole intervening plain was occupied by a mass of horsemen, which +came charging down upon us with guns and naked swords, lances, and bows +and arrows--Indians entirely naked, and warriors fully dressed for war, +with the long red streamers of their war-bonnets reaching nearly to the +ground, all mingled together in the bravery of savage warfare. They had +been thrown into a sudden tumult by the appearance of our flag, which, +among these people, is regarded as an emblem of hostility--it being +usually borne by the Sioux and the neighboring mountain Indians, when +they come here to war; and we had, accordingly been mistaken for a body +of their enemies. A few words from the chief quieted the excitement; +and the whole band, increasing every moment in number, escorted us to +their encampment, where the chief pointed out a place for us to encamp, +near his own lodge, and we made known our purpose in visiting the +village. In a very short time we purchased eight horses, for which we +gave in exchange blankets, red and blue cloth, beads, knives, and +tobacco, and the usual other articles of Indian traffic. We obtained +from them also a considerable quantity of berries, of different kinds, +among which service-berries were the most abundant; and several kinds +of roots and seeds, which we could eat with pleasure, as any kind of +vegetable food was gratifying to us. I ate here, for the first time, +the _kooyah_, or _tobacco-root_, (_valeriana edulis_,)--the principal +edible root among the Indians who inhabit the upper waters of the +streams on the western side of the mountains. It has a very strong and +remarkably peculiar taste and odor, which I can compare to no other +vegetable that I am acquainted with, and which to some persons is +extremely offensive. It was characterized by Mr. Preuss as the most +horrid food he had ever put in his mouth; and when, in the evening, one +of the chiefs sent his wife to me with a portion which she had prepared +as a delicacy to regale us, the odor immediately drove him out of the +lodge; and frequently afterwards he used to beg that when those who +liked it had taken what they desired, it might be sent away. To others, +however, the taste is rather an agreeable one; and I was afterwards +glad when it formed an addition to our scanty meals. It is full of +nutriment; and in its unprepared state is said by the Indians to have +very strong poisonous qualities, of which it is deprived by a peculiar +process, being baked in the ground for about two days. + +The morning of the 24th was disagreeably cool, with an easterly wind, +and very smoky weather. We made a late start from the village, and, +regaining the road, (on which, during all the day, were scattered the +emigrant wagons,) we continued on down the valley of the river, +bordered by high and mountainous hills, on which fires are seen at the +summit. The soil appears generally good, although, with the grasses, +many of the plants are dried up, probably on account of the great heat +and want of rain. The common blue flax of cultivation, now almost +entirely in seed--only a scattered flower here and there remaining--is +the most characteristic plant of the Bear River valley. When we +encamped at night, on the right bank of the river, it was growing as in +a sown field. We had traveled during the day twenty-two miles, +encamping in latitude (by observation) 42° 36' 56", chronometric +longitude 111° 42' 05". + +In our neighborhood the mountains appeared extremely rugged, giving +still greater value to this beautiful natural pass. + +25th.--This was a cloudless but smoky autumn morning, with a cold wind +from the southeast, and a temperature of 45° at sunrise. In a few miles +I noticed, where a little stream crossed the road, fragments of +_scoriated basalt_ scattered about--the first volcanic rock we had +seen, and which now became a characteristic rock along our future road. +In about six miles' travel from our encampment, we reached one of the +points in our journey to which we had always looked forward with great +interest--the famous _Beer springs_. The place in which they are +situated is a basin of mineral waters enclosed by the mountains, which +sweep around a circular bend of Bear river, here at its most northern +point, and which, from a northern, in the course of a few miles +acquires a southern direction towards the GREAT SALT LAKE. A pretty +little stream of clear water enters the upper part of the basin, from +an open valley in the mountains, and, passing through the bottom, +discharges into Bear river. Crossing this stream, we descended a mile +below, and made our encampment in a grove of cedar immediately at the +Beer springs, which, on account of the effervescing gas and acid taste, +have received their name from the voyageurs and trappers of the +country, who, in the midst of their rude and hard lives, are fond of +finding some fancied resemblance to the luxuries they rarely have the +fortune to enjoy. + +Although somewhat disappointed in the expectations which various +descriptions had led me to form of unusual beauty of situation and +scenery, I found it altogether a place of very great interest; and a +traveler for the first time in a volcanic region remains in a constant +excitement, and at every step is arrested by something remarkable and +new. There is a confusion of interesting objects gathered together in a +small space. Around the place of encampment the Beer springs were +numerous; but, as far as we could ascertain, were confined entirely to +that locality in the bottom. In the bed of the river, in front, for a +space of several hundred yards, they were very abundant; the +effervescing gas rising up and agitating the water in countless +bubbling columns. In the vicinity round about were numerous springs of +an entirely different and equally marked mineral character. In a rather +picturesque spot about 1,300 yards below our encampment, and +immediately on the river bank, is the most remarkable spring of the +place. In an opening on the rock, a white column of scattered water is +thrown up, in form like a _jet-d'eau_, to a variable height of about +three feet, and, though it is maintained in a constant supply, its +greatest height is only attained at regular intervals, according to the +action of the force below. It is accompanied by a subterranean noise, +which, together with the motion of the water, makes very much the +impression of a steamboat in motion; and, without knowing that it had +been already previously so called, we gave to it the name of the +_Steamboat spring_. The rock through which it is forced is slightly +raised in a convex manner, and gathered at the opening into an +urn-mouthed form, and is evidently formed by continued deposition from +the water, and colored bright red by oxide of iron. An analysis of this +deposited rock, which I subjoin, will give you some idea of the +properties of the water, which, with the exception of the Beer springs, +is the mineral water of the place. [Footnote: ANALYSIS. Carbonate of +lime - - - 92.55 Carbonate of magnesia - 0.42 Oxide of iron - - - - - +1.05 + +Silica- - - - - -} Alumina - - - - -}- - - 5.98 Water and loss- -} +_______ + 100.00] +It is a hot spring, and the water has a pungent and disagreeable +metallic taste, leaving a burning effect on the tongue. Within perhaps +two yards of the _jet-d'eau_ is a small hole of about an inch in +diameter, through which, at regular intervals, escapes a blast of hot +air, with a light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a regular noise. This +hole had been noticed by Dr. Wislizenus, a gentleman who had several +years since passed by this place, and who remarked, with very nice +observation, that smelling the gas which issued from the orifice +produced a sensation of giddiness and nausea. Mr. Preuss and myself +repeated the observation, and were so well satisfied with its +correctness, that we did not find it pleasant to continue the +experiment, as the sensation of giddiness which it produced was +certainly strong and decided. A huge emigrant wagon, with a large and +diversified family had overtaken us and halted to noon at our +encampment; and, while we were sitting at the spring, a band of boys +and girls, with two or three young men, came up, one of whom I asked to +stoop down and smell the gas, desirous to satisfy myself further of its +effects. But his natural caution had been awakened by the singular and +suspicious features of the place, and he declined my proposal +decidedly, and with a few indistinct remarks about the devil, whom he +seemed to consider the _genius loci_. The ceaseless motion and the play +of the fountain, the red rock and the green trees near, make this a +picturesque spot. + +A short distance above the spring, and near the foot of the same spur, +is a very remarkable, yellow-colored rock, soft and friable, consisting +principally of carbonate of lime and oxide of iron, of regular +structure, which is probably a fossil coral. The rocky bank along the +shore between the Steamboat spring and our encampment, along which is +dispersed the water from the hills, is composed entirely of strata of a +calcareous _tufa_, with the remains of moss and reed-like grasses, +which is probably the formation of springs. The _Beer_ or _Soda +springs_, which have given name to this locality, are agreeable, but +less highly flavored than the Boiling springs at the foot of Pike's +peak, which are of the same character. They are very numerous, and half +hidden by tufts of grass, which we amused ourselves in removing and +searching about for more highly impregnated springs. They are some of +them deep, and of various sizes--sometimes several yards in diameter, +and kept in constant motion by columns of escaping gas. By analysis, +one quart of the water contains as follows: + + Grains. + +Sulphate of magnesia------------ 12.10 Sulphate of lime---------------- +2.12 Carbonate of lime--------------- 3.86 Carbonate of +magnesia----------- 3.22 Chloride of calcium------------- 1.33 +Chloride of magnesium----------- 1.12 Chloride of sodium-------------- +2.24 Vegetable extractive matter, &c-- 0.85 + _____ + 26.84 + +The carbonic acid, originally contained in the water, had mainly +escaped before it was subjected to analysis; and it was not, therefore, +taken into consideration. + +In the afternoon I wandered about among the cedars, which occupy the +greater part of the bottom towards the mountains. The soil here has a +dry and calcined appearance; in some places, the open grounds are +covered with saline efflorescences, and there are a number of +regularly-shaped and very remarkable hills, which are formed of a +succession of convex strata that have been deposited by the waters of +extinct springs, the orifices of which are found on their summits, some +of them having the form of funnel-shaped cones. Others of these +remarkably-shaped hills are of a red-colored earth, entirely bare, and +composed principally of carbonate of lime, with oxide of iron, formed +in the same manner. Walking near one of them, on the summit of which +the springs were dry, my attention was attracted by an underground +noise, around which I circled repeatedly, until I found the spot from +beneath which it came; and, removing the red earth, discovered a hidden +spring, which was boiling up from below, with the same disagreeable +metallic taste as the Steamboat spring. Continuing up the bottom, and +crossing the little stream which has been already mentioned, I visited +several remarkable red and white hills, which had attracted my +attention from the road in the morning. These are immediately upon the +stream, and, like those already mentioned, are formed by the deposition +of successive strata from the springs. On their summits, the orifices +through which the waters had been discharged were so large, that they +resembled miniature craters, being some of them several feet in +diameter, circular, and regularly formed as if by art. At a former +time, when these dried-up fountains were all in motion, they must have +made a beautiful display on a grand scale; and nearly all this basin +appears to me to have been formed under their action, and should be +called the _place of fountains_. At the foot of one of these hills, or +rather on its side near the base, are several of these small limestone +columns, about one foot in diameter at the base, and tapering upwards +to a height of three or four feet; and on the summit the water is +boiling up and bubbling over, constantly adding to the height of the +little obelisks. In some, the water only boils up, no longer +overflowing, and has here the same taste as at the Steamboat spring. +The observer will remark a gradual subsidence in the water, which +formerly supplied the fountains; as on all the summits of the hills the +springs are now dry, and are found only low down upon their sides, or +on the surrounding plain. + +A little higher up the creek its banks are formed by strata of very +heavy and hard scoriaceous basalt, having a bright metallic lustre when +broken. The mountains overlooking the plain are of an entirely +different geological character. Continuing on, I walked to the summit +of one of them, where the principal rock was a granular quartz. +Descending the mountains, and returning towards the camp along the base +of the ridge which skirts the plain, I found, at the foot of a mountain +spur, and issuing from a compact rock of a dark blue color, a great +number of springs having the same pungent and disagreeably metallic +taste already mentioned, the water of which was collected into a very +remarkable basin, whose singularity, perhaps, made it appear to me very +beautiful. It is large--perhaps fifty yards in circumference; and in it +the water is contained, at an elevation of several feet above the +surrounding ground, by a wall of calcareous _tufa_, composed +principally of the remains of mosses, three or four, and sometimes ten +feet high. The water within is very clear and pure, and three or four +feet deep, where it could be measured, near the wall; and at a +considerably low level, is another pond or basin of very clear water, +and apparently of considerable depth, from the bottom of which the gas +was escaping in bubbling columns at many places. This water was +collected into a small stream, which, in a few hundred yards, sank +under ground, reappearing among the rocks between the two great springs +near the river, which it entered by a little fall. + +Late in the afternoon I set out on my return to the camp, and, crossing +in the way a large field of salt that was several inches deep, found on +my arrival that our emigrant friends, who had been encamped in company +with us, had resumed their journey, and the road had again assumed its +solitary character. The temperature of the largest of the _Beer_ +springs at our encampment was 65° at sunset, that of the air being +62.5°. Our barometric observation gave 5,840 feet for the elevation +above the gulf, being about 500 feet lower than the Boiling springs, +which are of a similar nature, at the foot of Pike's peak. The +astronomical observations gave for our latitude 42° 39' 57", and 111° +46' 00" for the longitude. The night was very still and cloudless, and +I sat up for an observation of the first satellite of Jupiter, the +emersion of which took place about midnight; but fell asleep at the +telescope, awaking just a few minutes after the appearance of the star. + +The morning of the 26th was calm, and the sky without clouds, but +smoky, and the temperature at sunrise 28.5°. At the same time, the +temperature of the large Beer spring, where we were encamped, was 56°; +that of the Steamboat spring 87°, and that of the steam-hole, near it, +81.5°. In the course of the morning, the last wagons of the emigration +passed by, and we were again left in our place, in the rear. + +Remaining in camp until nearly 11 o'clock, we traveled a short distance +down the river, and halted to noon on the bank, at a point where the +road quits the valley of Bear river, and, crossing a ridge which +divides the Great basin from the Pacific waters, reaches Fort Hall, by +way of the Portneuf river, in a distance of probably fifty miles, or +two and a half days' journey for wagons. An examination of the great +lake which is the outlet of this river, and the principal feature of +geographical interest in the basin, was one of the main objects +contemplated in the general plan of our survey, and I accordingly +determined at this place to leave the road, and, after having completed +a reconnoissance of the lake, regain it subsequently at Fort Hall. But +our little stock of provisions had again become extremely low; we had +only dried meat sufficient for one meal, and our supply of flour and +other comforts was entirely exhausted. I therefore immediately +dispatched one of the party, Henry Lee, with a note to Carson, at Fort +Hall, directing him to load a pack-horse with whatever could be +obtained there in the way of provisions, and endeavor to overtake me on +the river. In the mean time, we had picked up along the road two +tolerably well-grown calves, which would have become food for wolves, +and which had probably been left by some of the earlier emigrants, none +of those we had met having made any claim to them; and on these I +mainly relied for support during our circuit to the lake. + +In sweeping around the point of the mountain which runs down into the +bend, the river here passes between perpendicular walls of basalt, +which always fix the attention, from the regular form in which it +occurs, and its perfect distinctness from the surrounding rocks among +which it had been placed. The mountain, which is rugged and steep, and, +by our measurement, 1,400 feet above the river directly opposite the +place of our halt, is called the _Sheep-rock_--probably because a flock +of the mountain sheep (_ovis montana_) had been seen on the craggy +point. + +As we were about resuming our march in the afternoon, I was attracted +by the singular appearance of an isolated hill with a concave summit, +in the plain, about two miles from the river, and turned off towards +it, while the camp proceeded on its way southward in search of the +lake. I found the thin and stony soil of the plain entirely underlaid +by the basalt which forms the river walls; and when I reached the +neighborhood of the hill, the surface of the plain was rent into +frequent fissures and chasms of the same scoriated volcanic rock, from +40 to 60 feet deep, but which there was not sufficient light to +penetrate entirely, and which I had not time to descend. Arrived at the +summit of the hill, I found that it terminated in a very perfect +crater, of an oval, or nearly circular form, 360 paces in +circumference, and 60 feet at the greatest depth. The walls, which were +perfectly vertical, and disposed like masonry in a very regular manner, +were composed of a brown-colored scoriaceous lava, similar to the light +scoriaceous lava of Mt. Etna, Vesuvius, and other volcanoes. The faces +of the walls were reddened and glazed by the fire, in which they had +been melted, and which had left them contorted and twisted by its +violent action. + +Our route luring the afternoon was a little rough, being (in the +direction we had taken) over a volcanic plain, where our progress was +sometimes obstructed by fissures, and black beds, composed of fragments +of the rock. On both sides, the mountains appeared very broken, but +tolerably well timbered. + +Crossing a point of ridge which makes in to the river, we fell upon it +again before sunset, and encamped on the right bank, opposite to the +encampment of three lodges of Snake Indians. They visited us during the +evening, and we obtained from them a small quantity of roots of +different kinds, in exchange for goods. Among them was a sweet root of +very pleasant flavor, having somewhat the taste of preserved quince. My +endeavors to become acquainted with the plants which furnish to the +Indians a portion of their support, were only gradually successful, and +after long and persevering attention; and even after obtaining, I did +not succeed in preserving them until they could be satisfactorily +determined. In this portion of the journey, I found this particular +root cut up into small pieces, that it was only to be identified by its +taste, when the bulb was met with in perfect form among the Indians +lower down on the Columbia, among whom it is the highly celebrated +kamas. It was long afterwards, on our return through Upper California, +that I found the plant itself in bloom, which I supposed to furnish the +kamas root, (_camassia esculenta_.) The root diet had a rather mournful +effect at the commencement, and one of the calves was killed this +evening for food. The animals fared well on rushes. + +27th.--The morning was cloudy, with appearance of rain, and the +thermometer at sunrise at 29°. Making an unusually early start, we +crossed the river at a good ford; and, following for about three hours +a trail which led along the bottom, we entered a labyrinth of hills +below the main ridge, and halted to noon in the ravine of a pretty +little stream, timbered with cottonwood of a large size, ash-leaved +maple, with cherry and other shrubby trees. The hazy weather, which had +prevented any very extended views since entering the Green River +valley, began now to disappear. There was a slight rain in the earlier +part of the day, and at noon, when the thermometer had risen to 79.5°, +we had a bright sun, with blue sky and scattered _cumuli_. According to +the barometer, our halt there among the hills was at an elevation of +5,320 feet. Crossing a dividing ridge in the afternoon, we followed +down another little Bear River tributary, to the point where it emerged +on an open green flat among the hills, timbered with groves, and +bordered with cane thickets, but without water. A pretty little rivulet +coming out of the hillside, and overhung by tall flowering plants of a +species I had not hitherto seen, furnished us with a good +camping-place. The evening was cloudy, the temperature at sunset 69°, +and the elevation 5,140 feet. Among the plants occurring along the road +during the day, _epinettes des prairies_ (grindelia squarraso) was in +considerable abundance, and is among the very few plants remaining in +bloom--the whole country having now an autumnal appearance, in the +crisp and yellow plants, and dried-up grasses. Many cranes were seen +during the day, with a few antelope, very shy and wild. + +28th.--During the night we had a thunder-storm, with moderate rain, +which has made the air this morning very clear, the thermometer being +at 55°. Leaving our encampment at the _Cane spring_, and quitting the +trail on which we had been traveling, and which would probably have +afforded us a good road to the lake, we crossed some very deep ravines, +and, in about an hour's traveling, again reached the river. We were now +in a valley five or six miles wide, between mountain ranges, which, +about thirty miles below, appeared to close up and terminate the +valley, leaving for the river only a very narrow pass, or canon, behind +which we imagined we would find the broad waters of the lake. We made +the usual halt at the mouth of a small clear stream, having a slightly +mineral taste, (perhaps of salt,) 4,760 feet above the gulf. In the +afternoon we climbed a very steep sandy hill; and after a slow and +winding day's march of 27 miles, encamped at a slough on the river. +There were great quantities of geese and, ducks, of which only a few +were shot; the Indians having probably made them very wild. The men +employed themselves in fishing but caught nothing. A skunk, (_mephitis +Americana_,) which was killed in the afternoon, made a supper for one +of the messes. The river is bordered occasionally with fields of cane, +which we regarded as an indication of our approach to a lake-country. +We had frequent showers of rain during the night, with thunder. + +29th.--The thermometer at sunrise was 54°, with air from the NW., and +dark rainy clouds moving on the horizon; rain squalls and bright +sunshine by intervals. I rode ahead with Basil to explore the country, +and, continuing about three miles along the river, turned directly off +on a trail running towards three marked gaps in the bordering range, +where the mountains appeared cut through their bases, towards which the +river plain rose gradually. Putting our horses into a gallop on some +fresh tracks which showed very plainly in the wet path, we came +suddenly upon a small party of Shoshonee Indians, who had fallen into +the trail from the north. We could only communicate by signs; but they +made us understand that the road through the chain was a very excellent +one, leading into a broad valley which ran to the southward. We halted +to noon at what may be called the gate of the pass; on either side of +which were huge mountains of rock, between which stole a little pure +water stream, with a margin just sufficiently large for our passage. +From the river, the plain had gradually risen to an altitude of 5,500 +feet, and, by meridian observation, the latitude of the entrance was +42°. + +In the interval of our usual halt, several of us wandered along up the +stream to examine the pass more at leisure. Within the gate, the rocks +receded a little back, leaving a very narrow, but most beautiful +valley, through which the little stream wound its way, hidden by the +different kinds of trees and shrubs--aspen, maple, willow, cherry, and +elder; a fine verdure of smooth short grass spread over the remaining +space to the bare sides of the rocky walls. These were of a blue +limestone, which constitutes the mountain here; and opening directly on +the grassy bottom were several curious caves, which appeared to be +inhabited by root-diggers. On one side was gathered a heap of leaves +for a bed, and they were dry, open, and pleasant. On the roofs of the +caves I remarked bituminous exudations from the rock. + +The trail was an excellent one for pack-horses; but as it sometimes +crossed a shelving point, to avoid the shrubbery we were obliged in +several places to open a road for the carriage through the wood. A +squaw on horseback, accompanied by five or six dogs, entered the pass +in the afternoon; but was too much terrified at finding herself in such +unexpected company to make any pause for conversation, and hurried off +at a good pace--being, of course, no further disturbed than by an +accelerating shout. She was well and showily dressed, and was probably +going to a village encamped somewhere near, and evidently did not +belong to the tribe of _root-diggers_. We now had entered a country +inhabited by these people; and as in the course of the voyage we shall +frequently meet with them in various stages of existence, it will be +well to inform you that, scattered over the great region west of the +Rocky mountains, and south of the Great Snake river, are numerous +Indians whose subsistence is almost solely derived from roots and +seeds, and such small animals as chance and great good fortune +sometimes bring within their reach. They are miserably poor, armed only +with bows and arrows, or clubs; and, as the country they inhabit is +almost destitute of game, they have no means of obtaining better arms. +In the northern part of the region just mentioned, they live generally +in solitary families; and farther to the south they are gathered +together in villages. Those who live together in villages, strengthened +by association, are in exclusive possession of the more genial and +richer parts of the country; while the others are driven to the ruder +mountains, and to the more inhospitable parts of the country. But by +simply observing, in accompanying us along our road, you will become +better acquainted with these people than we could make you in any other +than a very long description, and you will find them worthy of your +interest. + +Roots, seeds, and grass, every vegetable that affords any nourishment, +and every living animal thing, insect or worm, they eat. Nearly +approaching to the lower animal creation, their sole employment is to +obtain food; and they are constantly occupied in struggling to support +existence. + +The most remarkable feature of the pass is the _Standing rock_, which +has fallen from the cliffs above, and standing perpendicularly near the +middle of the valley, presents itself like a watch-tower in the pass. +It will give you a tolerably correct idea of the character of the +scenery in this country, where generally the mountains rise abruptly up +from comparatively unbroken plains and level valleys; but it will +entirely fail in representing the picturesque beauty of this delightful +place, where a green valley, full of foliage and a hundred yards wide, +contrasts with naked crags that spire up into a blue line of pinnacles +3,000 feet above, sometimes crested with cedar and pine, and sometimes +ragged and bare. + +The detention that we met with in opening the road, and perhaps a +willingness to linger on the way, made the afternoon's travel short; +and about two miles from the entrance, we passed through another gate, +and encamped on the stream at the junction of a little fork from the +southward, around which the mountains stooped more gently down, forming +a small open cove. + +As it was still early in the afternoon, Basil and myself in one +direction, and Mr. Preuss in another, set out to explore the country, +and ascended different neighboring peaks, in the hope of seeing some +indications of the lake; but though our elevation afforded magnificent +views, the eye ranging over a large extent of Bear river, with the +broad and fertile _Cache valley_ in the direction of our search, was +only to be seen a bed of apparently impracticable mountains. Among +these, the trail we had been following turned sharply to the northward, +and it began to be doubtful if it would not lead us away from the +object of our destination; but I nevertheless determined to keep it, in +the belief that it would eventually bring us right. A squall of rain +drove us out of the mountain, and it was late when we reached the camp. +The evening closed in with frequent showers of rain, with some +lightning and thunder. + +30th.--We had constant thunder-storms during the night, but in the +morning the clouds were sinking to the horizon, and the air was clear +and cold, with the thermometer at sunrise at 39°. Elevation by +barometer 5,580 feet. We were in motion early, continuing up the little +stream without encountering any ascent where a horse would not easily +gallop; and, crossing a slight dividing ground at the summit, descended +upon a small stream, along which continued the same excellent road. In +riding through the pass, numerous cranes were seen; and prairie hens, +or grouse, (_bonasia umbellus_,) which lately had been rare, were very +abundant. + +This little affluent brought us to a larger stream, down which we +traveled through a more open bottom, on a level road, where +heavily-laden wagons could pass without obstacle. The hills on the +right grew lower, and, on entering a more open country, we discovered a +Shoshonee village; and being desirous to obtain information, and +purchase from them some roots and berries, we halted on the river, +which was lightly wooded with cherry, willow, maple, service-berry, and +aspen. A meridian observation of the sun, which I obtained here, gave +42° 14' 22" for our latitude, and the barometer indicated a height of +5,170 feet. A number of Indians came immediately over to visit us, and +several men were sent to the village with goods, tobacco, knives, +cloth, vermilion, and the usual trinkets, to exchange for provisions. +But they had no game of any kind; and it was difficult to obtain any +roots from them, as they were miserably poor, and had but little to +spare from their winter stock of provisions. Several of the Indians +drew aside their blankets, showing me their lean and bony figures; and +I would not any longer tempt them with a display of our merchandise to +part with their wretched subsistence, when they gave as a reason that +it would expose them to temporary starvation. A great portion of the +region inhabited by this nation, formerly abounded in game--the buffalo +ranging about in herds, as we had found them on the eastern waters, and +the plains dotted with scattered bands of antelope; but so rapidly have +they disappeared within a few years, that now, as we journeyed along, +an occasional buffalo skull and a few wild antelope were all that +remained of the abundance which had covered the country with animal +life. + +The extraordinary rapidity with which the buffalo is disappearing from +our territories will not appear surprising when we remember the great +scale on which their destruction is yearly carried on. With +inconsiderable exceptions, the business of the American trading-posts +is carried on in their skins; every year the Indian villages make new +lodges, for which the skin of the buffalo furnishes the material; and +in that portion of the country where they are still found, the Indians +derive their entire support from them, and slaughter them with a +thoughtless and abominable extravagance. Like the Indians themselves, +they have been a characteristic of the Great West; and as, like them, +they are visibly diminishing, it will be interesting to throw a glance +backward through the last twenty years, and give some account of their +former distribution through the country, and the limit of their western +range. + +The information is derived principally from Mr. Fitzpatrick, supported +by my own personal knowledge and acquaintance with the country. Our +knowledge does not go farther back than the spring of 1824, at which +time the buffalo were spread in immense numbers over the Green River +and Bear River valleys, and through all the country lying between the +Colorado, or Green river of the Gulf of California, and Lewis's fork of +the Columbia river; the meridian of Fort Hall then forming the western +limit of their range. The buffalo then remained for many years in that +country, and frequently moved down the valley of the Columbia, on both +sides of the river as far as the _Fishing falls_. Below this point they +never descended in any numbers. About the year 1834 or 1835 they began +to diminish very rapidly, and continued to decrease until 1838 or 1840, +when, with the country we have just described, they entirely abandoned +all the waters of the Pacific north of Lewis's fork of the Columbia. At +that time, the Flathead Indians were in the habit of finding their +buffalo on the heads of Salmon river, and other streams of the +Columbia; but now they never meet with them farther west than the three +forks of the Missouri, or the plains of the Yellow-stone river. + +In the course of our journey it will be remarked that the buffalo have +not so entirely abandoned the waters of the Pacific, in the +Rocky-Mountain region south of the Sweet Water, as in the country north +of the Great Pass. This partial distribution can only be accounted for +in the great pastoral beauty of that country, which bears marks of +having been one of their favorite haunts, and by the fact that the +white hunters have more frequented the northern than the southern +region--it being north of the South Pass that the hunters, trappers, +and traders, have had their rendezvous for many years past; and from +that section also the greater portion of the beaver and rich furs were +taken, although always the most dangerous as well as the most +profitable hunting-ground. + +In that region lying between the Green or Colorado river and the +head-waters of the Rio del Norte, over the _Yampah, Kooyah, White_, and +_Grand_ rivers--all of which are the waters of the Colorado--the +buffalo never extended so far to the westward as they did on the waters +of the Columbia; and only in one or two instances have they been known +to descend as far west as the mouth of White river. In traveling +through the country west of the Rocky mountains, observation readily +led me to the impression that the buffalo had, for the first time, +crossed that range to the waters of the Pacific only a few years prior +to the period we are considering; and in this opinion I am sustained by +Mr. Fitzpatrick, and the older trappers in that country. In the region +west of the Rocky mountains, we never meet with any of the ancient +vestiges which, throughout all the country lying upon their eastern +waters, are found in the _great highways_, continuous for hundreds of +miles, always several inches, and sometimes several feet in depth, +which the buffalo have made in crossing from one river to another, or +in traversing the mountain ranges. The Snake Indians, more particularly +those low down upon Lewis's fork, have always been very grateful to the +American trappers, for the great kindness (as they frequently expressed +it) which they did to them, in driving the buffalo so low down the +Columbia river. + +The extraordinary abundance of the buffalo on the east side of the +Rocky mountains, and their extraordinary diminution, will be made +clearly evident from the following statement: At any time between the +years 1824 and 1836, a traveler might start from any given point south +or north in the Rocky Mountain range, journeying by the most direct +route to the Missouri river; and, during the whole distance, his road +would always be among large bands of buffalo, which would never be out +of his view until he arrived almost within sight of the abodes of +civilization. + +At this time, the buffalo occupy but a very limited space, principally +along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, sometimes extending at +their southern extremity to a considerable distance into the plains +between the Platte and Arkansas rivers, and along the eastern frontier +of New Mexico as far south as Texas. + +The following statement, which I owe to the kindness of Mr. Sanford, a +partner in the American Fur Company, will further illustrate this +subject, by extensive knowledge acquired during several years of travel +through the region inhabited by the buffalo: + +"The total amount of robes annually traded by ourselves and others will +not be found to differ much from the following statement: + + Robes. + +American Fur Company 70,000 Hudson's Bay Company +10,000 All other companies, probably 10,000 + ------- +Making a total of 90,000 as an average annual return +for the last eight or ten years. + + +"In the northwest, the Hudson's Bay Company purchase from the Indians +but a very small number--their only market being Canada, to which the +cost of transportation nearly equals the produce of the furs; and it is +only within a very recent period that they have received buffalo robes +in trade; and out of the great number of buffalo annually killed +throughout the extensive region inhabited by the Camanches and other +kindred tribes, no robes whatever are furnished for trade. During only +four months of the year, (from November until March,) the skins are +good for dressing; those obtained in the remaining eight months are +valueless to traders; and the hides of bulls are never taken off or +dressed as robes at any season. Probably not more than one-third of the +skins are taken from the animals killed, even when they are in good +season, the labor of preparing and dressing the robes being very great; +and it is seldom that a lodge trades more than twenty skins in a year. +It is during the summer months, and in the early part of autumn, that +the greatest number of buffalo are killed, and yet at this time a skin +is never taken for the purpose of trade." + +From these data, which are certainly limited, and decidedly within +bounds, the reader is left to draw his own inference of the immense +number annually killed. + +In 1842, I found the Sioux Indians of the Upper Platte _demontes_, as +their French traders expressed it, with the failure of the buffalo; and +in the following year, large villages from the Upper Missouri came over +to the mountains at the heads of the Platte, in search of them. The +rapidly progressive failure of their principal, and almost their only +means of subsistence, has created great alarm among them; and at this +time there are only two modes presented to them, by which they see a +good prospect for escaping starvation: one of these is to rob the +settlements along the frontier of the States; and the other is to form +a league between the various tribes of the Sioux nation, the Cheyennes, +and Arapahoes, and make war against the Crow nation, in order to take +from them their country, which is now the best buffalo country in the +west. This plan they now have in consideration; and it would probably +be a war of extermination, as the Crows have long been advised of this +state of affairs, and say that they are perfectly prepared. These are +the best warriors in the Rocky mountains, and are now allied with the +Snake Indians; and it is probable that their combination would extend +itself to the Utahs, who have long been engaged in war against the +Sioux. It is in this section of country that my observation formerly +led me to recommend the establishment of a military post. + +The farther course of our narrative will give fuller and more detailed +information of the present disposition of the buffalo in the country we +visited. + +Among the roots we obtained here, I could distinguish only five or six +different kinds; and the supply of the Indians whom we met consisted +principally of yampah, (_anethum graveolens_,) tobacoo-root, +(_valeriana_,) and a large root of a species of thistle, (_circium +Virginianum_,) which now is occasionally abundant and is a very +agreeably flavored vegetable. + +We had been detained so long at the village, that in the afternoon we +made only five miles, and encamped on the same river after a day's +journey of 19 miles. The Indians informed us that we should reach the +big salt water after having slept twice and traveling in a south +direction. The stream had here entered nearly a level plain or valley, +of good soil, eight or ten miles broad, to which no termination was to +be seen, and lying between ranges of mountains which, on the right, +were grassy and smooth, unbroken by rock, and lower than on the left, +where they were rocky and bald, increasing in height to the southward. +On the creek were fringes of young willows, older trees being rarely +found on the plains, where the Indians burn the surface to produce +better grass. Several magpies (_pica Hudsopica_) were seen on the creek +this afternoon; and a rattlesnake was killed here, the first which had +been seen since leaving the eastern plains. Our camp to-night had such +a hungry appearance that I suffered the little cow to be killed, and +divided the roots and berries among the people. A number of Indians +from the village encamped near. + +The weather the next morning was clear, the thermometer at sunrise at +44.5°; and, continuing down the valley, in about five miles we followed +the little creek of our encampment to its junction with a larger +stream, called _Roseaux_, or Reed river. Immediately opposite, on the +right, the range was gathered into its highest peak, sloping gradually +low, and running off to a point apparently some forty or fifty miles +below. Between this (now become the valley stream) and the foot of the +mountains, we journeyed along a handsome sloping level, which frequent +springs from the hills made occasionally miry, and halted to noon at a +swampy spring, where there were good grass and abundant rushes. Here +the river was forty feet wide, with a considerable current, and the +valley a mile and a half in breadth; the soil being generally good, of +a dark color, and apparently well adapted to cultivation. The day had +become bright and pleasant, with the thermometer at 71°. By +observation, our latitude was 41° 59' 31", and the elevation above the +sea 4,670 feet. On our left, this afternoon, the range at long +intervals formed itself into peaks, appearing to terminate, about forty +miles below, in a rocky cape, beyond which several others were faintly +visible; and we were disappointed when, at every little rise, we did +not see the lake. Towards evening, our way was somewhat obstructed by +fields of _artemisia_, which began to make their appearance here, and +we encamped on the Roseaux, the water of which had acquired a decidedly +salt taste, nearly opposite to a canon gap in the mountains, through +which the Bear river enters this valley. As we encamped, the night set +in dark and cold, with heavy rain, and the artemisia, which was our +only wood, was so wet that it would not burn. A poor, nearly starved +dog, with a wound in his side from a ball, came to the camp, and +remained with us until the winter, when he met a very unexpected fate. + + + +SEPTEMBER. + + +1st.--The morning was squally and cold; the sky scattered over with +clouds; and the night had been so uncomfortable, that we were not on +the road until eight o'clock. Traveling between Roseaux and Bear +rivers, we continued to descend the valley, which gradually expanded, +as we advanced, into a level plain, of good soil, about 25 miles in +breadth, between mountains 3,000 and 4,000 feet high, rising suddenly +to the clouds, which all day rested upon the peaks. These gleamed out +in the occasional sunlight, mantled with the snow, which had fallen +upon them, while it rained on us in the valley below, of which the +elevation here was 4,500 feet above the sea. The country before us +plainly indicated that we were approaching the lake, though, as the +ground we were traveling afforded no elevated point, nothing of it as +yet could be seen; and at a great distance ahead were several isolated +mountains resembling islands, which they were afterwards found to be. +On this upper plain, the grass was everywhere dead; and among the +shrubs with which it was almost exclusively occupied, (artemisia being +the most abundant,) frequently occurred handsome clusters of several +species of _dieteria_ in bloom. _Purshia tridentata_ was among the +frequent shrubs. Descending to the bottoms of Bear river, we found good +grass for the animals, and encamped about 300 yards above the mouth of +Roseaux, which here makes its junction, without communicating any of +its salty taste to the main stream, of which the water remains +perfectly pure. On the river are only willow thickets, (_salix +longifolia_,) and in the bottoms the abundant plants are canes, +soldiago, and helianthi, and along the banks of Roseaux are fields of +_malva rotundifolia_. At sunset the thermometer was at 54.5°, and the +evening clear and calm; but I deferred making any use of it until one +o'clock in the morning, when I endeavored to obtain an emersion of the +first satellite; but it was lost in a bank of clouds, which also +rendered our usual observations indifferent. + +Among the useful things which formed a portion of our equipage, was an +India-rubber boat, 18 feet long, made somewhat in the form of a bark +canoe of the northern lakes. The sides were formed by two air-tight +cylinders, eighteen inches in diameter, connected with others forming +the bow and stern. To lessen the danger from accidents to the boat, +these were divided into four different compartments, and the interior +space was sufficiently large to contain five or six persons, and a +considerable weight of baggage. The Roseaux being too deep to be +forded, our boat was filled with air, and in about one hour all the +equipage of the camp, carriage and gun included, ferried across. +Thinking that perhaps in the course of the day we might reach the +outlet of the lake, I got into the boat with Basil Lajeunesse, and +paddled down Bear river, intending at night to rejoin the party, which +in the mean time proceeded on its way. The river was from sixty to one +hundred yards broad, and the water so deep, that even on the +comparatively shallow points we could not reach the bottom with 15 +feet. On either side were alternately low bottoms and willow points, +with an occasional high prairie; and for five or six hours we followed +slowly the winding course of the river, which crept along with a +sluggish current among frequent _detours_ several miles around, +sometimes running for a considerable distance directly up the valley. +As we were stealing quietly down the stream, trying in vain to get a +shot at a strange large bird that was numerous among the willows, but +very shy, we came unexpectedly upon several families of _Root-Diggers_, +who were encamped among the rushes on the shore, and appeared very busy +about several weirs or nets which had been rudely made of canes and +rushes for the purpose of catching fish. They were very much startled +at our appearance, but we soon established an acquaintance; and finding +that they had some roots, I promised to send some men with goods to +trade with them. They had the usual very large heads, remarkable among +the Digger tribe, with matted hair, and were almost entirely naked: +looking very poor and miserable, as if their lives had been spent in +the rushes where they were, beyond which they seemed to have very +little knowledge of any thing. From the words we could comprehend, +their language was that of the Snake Indians. + +Our boat moved so heavily, that we had made very little progress; and, +finding that it would be impossible to overtake the camp, as soon as we +were sufficiently far below the Indians, we put to the shore near a +high prairie bank, hauled up the boat, and _cached_ our effects in the +willows. Ascending the bank, we found that our desultory labor had +brought us only a few miles in a direct line; and, going out into the +prairie, after a search we found the trail of the camp, which was +nowhere in sight, but had followed the general course of the river in a +large circular sweep which it makes at this place. The sun was about +three hours high when we found the trail; and as our people had passed +early in the day, we had the prospect of a vigorous walk before us. +Immediately where we landed, the high arable plain on which we had been +traveling, for several days past, terminated in extensive low flats, +very generally occupied by salt marshes, or beds of shallow lakes, +whence the water had in most places evaporated, leaving their hard +surface incrusted with a shining white residuum; and absolutely covered +with very small _univalve_ shells. As we advanced, the whole country +around us assumed this appearance; and there was no other vegetation +than the shrubby chenopodiaceous and other apparently saline plants, +which were confined to the rising grounds. Here and there, on the river +bank, which was raised like a levee above the flats through which it +ran, was a narrow border of grass and short black-burnt willows; the +stream being very deep and sluggish, and sometimes six hundred to eight +hundred feet wide. After a rapid walk of about fifteen miles, we caught +sight of the camp-fires among clumps of willows, just as the sun had +sunk behind the mountains on the west side of the valley, filling the +clear sky with a golden yellow. These last rays, to us so precious, +could not have revealed a more welcome sight. To the traveler and the +hunter, a camp-fire in the lonely wilderness is always cheering; and to +ourselves, in our present situation, after a hard march in a region of +novelty, approaching the _debouches_ of a river, in a lake of almost +fabulous reputation, it was doubly so. A plentiful supper of aquatic +birds, and the interest of the scene, soon dissipated fatigue; and I +obtained during the night emersions of the second, third, and fourth +satellites of Jupiter, with observations for time and latitude. + +3d.--The morning was clear, with a light air from the north, and the +thermometer at sunrise at 45.5°. At three in the morning, Basil was +sent back with several men and horses for the boat, which, in a direct +course across the flats, was not ten miles distant; and in the mean +time there was a pretty spot of grass here for the animals. The ground +was so low that we could not get high enough to see across the river, +on account of the willows; but we were evidently in the vicinity of the +lake, and the water-fowl made this morning a noise like thunder. A +pelican (_pelecanus onocrotalus_) was killed as he passed by, and many +geese and ducks flew over the camp. On the dry salt marsh here is +scarce any other plant than _salicornia herbacea_. + +In the afternoon the men returned with the boat, bringing with them a +small quantity of roots and some meat, which the Indians had told them +was bear-meat. + +Descending the river for about three miles, in the afternoon, we found +a bar to any further traveling in that direction--the stream being +spread out in several branches, and covering the low grounds with +water, where the miry nature of the bottom did not permit any further +advance. We were evidently on the border of the lake, although the +rushes and canes which covered the marshes prevented any view; and we +accordingly encamped at the little _delta_ which forms the mouth of +Bear river--a long arm of the lake stretching up to the north, between +us and the opposite mountains. The river was bordered with a fringe of +willows and canes, among which were interspersed a few plants; and +scattered about on the marsh was a species of _uniola_, closely allied +to _U. spicata_ of our sea-coast. The whole morass was animated with +multitudes of water-fowl, which appeared to be very wild--rising for +the space of a mile round about at the sound of a gun, with a noise +like distant thunder. Several of the people waded out into the marshes, +and we had to-night a delicious supper of ducks, geese, and plover. + +Although the moon was bright, the night was otherwise favorable; and I +obtained this evening an emersion of the first satellite, with the +usual observations. A mean result, depending on various observations +made during our stay in the neighborhood, places the mouth of the river +in longitude 112° 19' 30" west from Greenwich; latitude 41° 30' 22"; +and, according to the barometer, in elevation 4,200 feet above the Gulf +of Mexico. The night was clear, with considerable dew, which I had +remarked every night since the first of September. The next morning, +while we were preparing to start, Carson rode into the camp with flour +and a few other articles of light provision sufficient for two or three +days--a scanty but very acceptable supply. Mr. Fitzpatrick had not yet +arrived, and provisions were very scarce, and difficult to be had at +Fort Hall, which had been entirely exhausted by the necessities of the +emigrants. He brought me also a letter from Mr. Dwight, who, in company +with several emigrants, had reached that place in advance of Mr. +Fitzpatrick, and was about continuing his journey to Vancouver. + +Returning about five miles up the river, we were occupied until nearly +sunset in crossing to the left bank--the stream, which in the last five +or six miles of its course is very much narrower than above, being very +deep immediately at the banks; and we had great difficulty in getting +our animals over. The people with the baggage were easily crossed in +the boat, and we encamped on the left bank where we crossed the river. +At sunset the thermometer was at 75°, and there was some rain during +the night, with a thunder-storm at a distance. + +5th.--Before us was evidently the bed of the lake, being a great salt +marsh, perfectly level and bare, whitened in places by saline +efflorescences, with here and there a pool of water, and having the +appearance of a very level seashore at low tide. Immediately along the +river was a very narrow strip of vegetation, consisting of willows, +helianthi, roses, flowering vines, and grass; bordered on the verge of +the great marsh by a fringe of singular plants, which appear to be a +shrubby salicornia, or a genus allied to it. + +About 12 miles to the southward was one of those isolated mountains, +now appearing to be a kind of peninsula; and towards this we +accordingly directed our course, as it probably afforded a good view of +the lake; but the deepening mud as we advanced forced us to return +towards the river, and gain the higher ground at the foot of the +eastern mountains. Here we halted for a few minutes at noon, on a +beautiful little stream of pure and remarkably clear water, with a bed +of rock _in situ_, on which was an abundant water-plant with a white +blossom. There was good grass in the bottoms; and, amidst a rather +luxuriant growth, its banks were bordered with a large showy plant, +(_eupatorium purpureum_,) which I here saw for the first time. We named +the stream _Clear creek_. + +We continued our way along the mountain, having found here a broad +plainly-beaten trail, over what was apparently the shore of the lake in +the spring; the ground being high and firm, and the soil excellent, and +covered with vegetation, among which a leguminous plant (_glycyrrhiza +lepidota_) was a characteristic plant. The ridge here rises abruptly to +the height of about 4,000 feet, its face being very prominently marked +with a massive stratum of rose-colored granular quartz, which is +evidently an altered sedimentary rock, the lines of deposition being +very distinct. It is rocky and steep--divided into several +mountains--and the rain in the valley appears to be always snow on +their summits at this season. Near a remarkably rocky point of the +mountain, at a large spring of pure water, were several +hackberry-trees, (_celtis_,) probably a new species, the berries still +green; and a short distance farther, thickets of sumach, (_rhus_.) + +On the plain here I noticed blackbirds and grouse. In about seven miles +from Clear creek, the trail brought us to a place at the foot of the +mountain where there issued, with considerable force, 10 or 12 hot +springs, highly impregnated with salt. In one of these the thermometer +stood at 136°, and in another at 132.5°, and the water, which was +spread in pools over the low ground, was colored red. + +An analysis of the red earthy matter deposited in the bed of the stream +from the springs, gives the following result: + +Peroxide of iron------- 33.50 Carbonate of magnesia-- 2.40 Carbonate +of lime------ 50.43 Sulphate of lime------- 2.00 Chloride of +sodium----- 3.45 Silica and alumina------ 3.00 Water and +loss---------- 5.22 + ------ + 100.00° + +At this place the trail we had been following turned to the left, +apparently with a view of entering a gorge in the mountain, from which +issued the principal fork of a large and comparatively well-timbered +stream, called Weber's fork. We accordingly turned off towards the +lake, and encamped on this river, which was 100 to 150 feet wide, with +high banks, and very clear pure water, without the slightest indication +of salt. + +6th.--Leaving the encampment early, we again directed our course for +the peninsular _butte_ across a low shrubby plain, crossing in the way +a slough-like creek with miry banks, and wooded with thickets of thorn, +(_crataegus_,) which were loaded with berries. This time we reached the +butte without any difficulty, and, ascending to the summit, immediately +at our feet beheld the object of our anxious search--the waters of the +Inland Sea, stretching in still and solitary grandeur far beyond the +limit of our vision. It was one of the great points of the exploration; +and as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first emotions of excited +pleasure, I am doubtful if the followers of Balboa felt more enthusiasm +when, from the heights of the Andes, they saw for the first time the +great Western ocean. It was certainly a magnificent object, and a noble +_terminus_ to this part of our expedition; and to travelers so long +shut up among mountain ranges, a sudden view over the expanse of silent +waters had in it something sublime. Several large islands raised their +high rocky heads out of the waves; but whether or not they were +timbered, was still left to our imagination, as the distance was too +great to determine if the dark hues upon them were woodland or naked +rock. During the day the clouds had been gathering black over the +mountains to the westward, and, while we were looking, a storm burst +down with sudden fury upon the lake, and entirely hid the inlands from +our view. So far as we could see, along the shores there was not a +solitary tree, and but little appearance of grass; and on Weber's fork, +a few miles below our last encampment, the timber was gathered into +groves, and then disappeared entirely. As this appeared to be the +nearest point to the lake, where a suitable camp could be found, we +directed our course to one of the groves, where we found a handsome +encampment, with good grass and an abundance of rushes, (_equisetum +hyemale_.) At sunset the thermometer was at 55°; the evening clear and +calm, with some cumuli. + +7th.--The morning was calm and clear, with a temperature at sunrise of +39.5°. The day was spent in active preparation for our intended voyage +on the lake. On the edge of the stream a favorable spot was selected in +a grove, and, felling the timber, we made a strong _coral_, or +horse-pen, for the animals, and a little fort for the people who were +to remain. We were now probably in the country of the Utah Indians, +though none reside on the lake. The India-rubber boat was repaired with +prepared cloth and gum, and filled with air, in readiness for the next +day. + +The provisions which Carson brought with him being now exhausted, and +our stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, I determined to retain +with me only a sufficient number of men for the execution of our +design; and accordingly seven were sent back to Fort Hall, under the +guidance of François Lajeunesse, who, having been for many years a +trapper in the country, was considered an experienced mountaineer. +Though they were provided with good horses, and the road was a +remarkably plain one of only four days' journey for a horse-man, they +became bewildered, (as we afterwards learned,) and, losing their way, +wandered about the country in parties of one or two, reaching the fort +about a week afterwards. Some straggled in of themselves, and the +others were brought in by Indians who had picked them up on Snake +river, about sixty miles below the fort, traveling along the emigrant +road in full march for the Lower Columbia. The leader of this +adventurous party was François. + +Hourly barometrical observations were made during the day, and, after +the departure of the party for Fort Hall, we occupied ourselves in +continuing our little preparations, and in becoming acquainted with the +country in the vicinity. The bottoms along the river were timbered with +several kinds of willow, hawthorn, and fine cottonwood-trees (_populus +canadensis_) with remarkably large leaves, and sixty feet in height by +measurement. + +We formed now but a small family. With Mr. Preuss and myself, Carson, +Bernier, and Basil Lajeunesse, had been selected for the boat +expedition--the first attempted on this interior sea; and Badeau, with +Derosier, and Jacob, (the colored man,) were to be left in charge of +the camp. We were favored with most delightful weather. To-night there +was a brilliant sunset of golden orange and green, which left the +western sky clear and beautifully pure; but clouds in the east made me +lose an occultation. The summer frogs were singing around us; and the +evening was very pleasant, with a temperature of 60°--a night of a more +southern autumn. For our supper we had _yampah_, the most agreeably +flavored of the roots, seasoned by a small fat duck, which had come in +the way of Jacob's rifle. Around our fire to-night were many +speculations on what to-morrow would bring forth, and in our busy +conjectures we fancied that we should find every one of the large +islands a tangled wilderness of trees and shrubbery, teeming with game +of every description that the neighboring region afforded, and which +the foot of a white man or Indian had never violated. Frequently, +during the day, clouds had rested on the summits of their lofty +mountains, and we believed that we should find clear streams and +springs of fresh water; and we indulged in anticipations of the +luxurious repasts with which we were to indemnify ourselves for past +privations. Neither, in our discussions, were the whirlpool and other +mysterious dangers forgotten, which Indian and hunters' stories +attributed to this unexplored lake. The men had found that, instead of +being strongly sewed, (like that of the preceding year, which had so +triumphantly rode the canons of the upper Great Platte,) our present +boat was only pasted together in a very insecure manner, the maker +having been allowed so little time in the construction, that he was +obliged to crowd the labor of two months into several days. The +insecurity of the boat was sensibly felt by us; and, mingled with the +enthusiasm and excitement that we all felt at the prospect of an +undertaking which had never before been accomplished, was a certain +impression of danger, sufficient to give a serious character to our +conversation. The momentary view which had been had of the lake the day +before, its great extent and rugged islands, dimly seen amidst the dark +waters in the obscurity of the sudden storm, were calculated to +heighten the idea of undefined danger with which the lake was generally +associated. + +8th.--A calm, clear day, with a sunrise temperature of 41°. In view of +our present enterprise, a part of the equipment of the boat had been +made to consist in three air-tight bags, about three feet long, and +capable each of containing five gallons. These had been filled with +water the night before, and were now placed in the boat, with our +blankets and instruments, consisting of a sextant, telescope, +spy-glass, thermometer, and barometer. + +We left the camp at sunrise, and had a very pleasant voyage down the +river, in which there was generally eight or ten feet of water, +deepening as we neared the mouth in the latter part of the day. In the +course of the morning we discovered that two of the cylinders leaked so +much as to require one man constantly at the bellows, to keep them +sufficiently full of air to support the boat. Although we had made a +very early start, we loitered so much on the way--stopping every now +and then, and floating silently along, to get a shot at a goose or +duck--that it was late in the day when we reached the outlet. The river +here divided into several branches, filled with fluvials, and so very +shallow that it was with difficulty we could get the boat along, being +obliged to get out and wade. We encamped on a low point among rushes +and young willows, where was a quantity of drift-wood, which served for +our fires. The evening was mild and clear; we made a pleasant bed of +young willows; and geese and ducks enough had been killed for an +abundant supper at night, and for breakfast the next morning. The +stillness of the night was enlivened by millions of water-fowl. Lat. +(by observation) 41° 11' 26"; and long. 112° 11' 30". + +9th.--The day was clear and calm; the thermometer at sunrise at 49°. As +is usual with the trappers on the eve of any enterprise, our people had +made dreams, and theirs happened to be a bad one--one which always +preceded evil--and consequently they looked very gloomy this morning; +but we hurried through our breakfast, in order to made an early start, +and have all the day before us for our adventure. The channel in a +short distance became so shallow that our navigation was at an end, +being merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few inches of water, and +sometimes none at all, forming the low-water shore of the lake. All +this place was absolutely covered with flocks of screaming plover. We +took off our clothes, and, getting overboard, commenced dragging the +boat--making, by this operation, a very curious trail, and a very +disagreeable smell in stirring up the mud, as we sank above the knee at +every step. The water here was still fresh, with only an insipid and +disagreeable taste, probably derived from the bed of fetid mud. After +proceeding in this way about a mile, we came to a small black ridge on +the bottom, beyond which the water became suddenly salt, beginning +gradually to deepen, and the bottom was sandy and firm. It was a +remarkable division, separating the fresh waters of the rivers from the +briny water of the lake, which was entirely _saturated_ with common +salt. Pushing our little vessel across the narrow boundary, we sprang +on board, and at length were afloat on the waters of the unknown sea. + +We did not steer for the mountainous islands, but directed our course +towards a lower one, which it had been decided we should first visit, +the summit of which was formed like the crater at the upper end of Bear +River valley. So long as we could touch the bottom with our paddles, we +were very gay; but gradually, as the water deepened, we became more +still in our frail batteau of gum-cloth distended with air, and with +pasted seams. Although the day was very calm, there was a considerable +swell on the lake; and there were white patches of foam on the surface, +which were slowly moving to the southward, indicating the set of a +current in that direction, and recalling the recollection of the +whirlpool stories. The water continued to deepen as we advanced--the +lake becoming almost transparently clear, of an extremely beautiful +bright-green color; and the spray, which was thrown into the boat and +over our clothes, was directly converted into a crust of common salt, +which covered also our hands and arms. "Captain," said Carson, who for +some time had been looking suspiciously at some whitening appearances +outside the nearest islands, "what are those yonder?--won't you just +take a look with the glass?" We ceased paddling for a moment, and found +them to be the caps of the waves that were beginning to break under the +force of a strong breeze that was coming up the lake. + +The form of the boat seemed to be an admirable one, and it rode on the +waves like a water-bird; but, at the same time, it was extremely slow +in its progress. When we were a little more than half way across the +reach, two of the divisions between the cylinders gave way, and it +required the constant use of the bellows to keep in a sufficient +quantity of air. For a long time we scarcely seemed to approach our +island, but gradually we worked across the rougher sea of the open +channel, into the smoother water under the lee of the island, and began +to discover that what we took for a long row of pelicans, ranged on the +beach, were only low cliffs whitened with salt by the spray of the +waves; and about noon we reached the shore, the transparency of the +water enabling us to see the bottom at a considerable depth. + +It was a handsome broad beach where we landed, behind which the hill, +into which the island was gathered, rose somewhat abruptly; and a point +of rock at one end enclosed it in a sheltering way; and as there was an +abundance of drift-wood along the shore, it offered us a pleasant +encampment. We did not suffer our frail boat to touch the sharp rocks, +but, getting overboard, discharged the baggage, and, lifting it gently +out of the water, carried it to the upper part of the beach, which was +composed of very small fragments of rock. + +Among the successive banks of the beach, formed by the action of the +waves, our attention, as we approached the island, had been attracted +by one 10 to 20 feet in breadth, of a dark-brown color. Being more +closely examined, this was found to be composed, to the depth of seven +or eight and twelve inches, entirely of the _larvæ_ of insects, or, in +common language; of the skins of worms, about the size of a grain of +oats, which had been washed up by the waters of the lake. + +Alluding to this subject some months afterwards, when traveling through +a more southern portion of this region, in company with Mr. Joseph +Walker, an old hunter, I was informed by him, that, wandering with a +party of men in a mountain country east of the great California range, +he surprised a party of several Indian families encamped near a small +salt lake, who abandoned their lodges at his approach, leaving every +thing behind them. Being in a starving condition, they were delighted +to find in the abandoned lodges a number of skin bags, containing a +quantity of what appeared to be fish, dried and pounded. On this they +made a hearty supper, and were gathering around an abundant breakfast +the next morning, when Mr. Walker discovered that it was with these, or +a similar worm, that the bags had been filled. The stomachs of the +stout trappers were not proof against their prejudices, and the +repulsive food was suddenly rejected. Mr. Walker had further +opportunities of seeing these worms used as an article of food; and I +am inclined to think they are the same as those we saw, and appear to +be a product of the salt lakes. It may be well to recall to your mind +that Mr. Walker was associated with Capt. Bonneville in his expedition +to the Rocky mountains, and has since that time remained in the +country, generally residing in some one of the Snake villages, when not +engaged in one of his numerous trapping expeditions, in which he is +celebrated as one of the best and bravest leaders who have ever been in +the country. + +The cliffs and masses of rock along the shore were whitened by an +incrustation of salt where the waves dashed up against them; and the +evaporating water, which had been left in holes and hollows on the +surface of the rocks, was covered with a crust of salt about one-eighth +of an inch in thickness. It appeared strange that, in the midst of this +grand reservoir, one of our greatest wants lately had been salt. +Exposed to be more perfectly dried in the sun, this became very white +and fine, having the usual flavor of very excellent common salt, +without any foreign taste; but only a little was collected for present +use, as there was in it a number of small black insects. + +Carrying with us the barometer and other instruments, in the afternoon +we ascended to the highest point of the island--a bare, rocky peak, +eight hundred feet above the lake. Standing on the summit, we enjoyed +an extended view of the lake, enclosed in a basin of rugged mountains, +which sometimes left marshy flats and extensive bottoms between them +and the shore, and in other places came directly down into the water +with bold and precipitous bluffs. Following with our glasses the +irregular shores, we searched for some indications of a communication +with other bodies of water, or the entrance of other rivers; but the +distance was so great that we could make out nothing with certainty. To +the southward, several peninsular mountains, 3,000 or 4,000 feet high, +entered the lake, appearing, so far as the distance and our position +enabled us to determine, to be connected by flats and low ridges with +the mountains in the rear. These are probably the islands usually +indicated on maps of this region as entirely detached from the shore. +The season of our operations was when the waters were at their lowest +stage. At the season of high waters in the spring, it is probable that +the marshes and low grounds are overflowed, and the surface of the lake +considerably greater. In several places the view was of unlimited +extent--here and there a rocky islet appearing above the waters, at a +great distance; and beyond, every thing was vague and undefined. As we +looked over the vast expanse of water spread out beneath us, and +strained our eyes along the silent shores over which hung so much doubt +and uncertainty, and which were so full of interest to us, I could +hardly repress the almost irresistible desire to continue our +explorations; but the lengthening snow on the mountains was a plain +indication of the advancing season, and our frail linen boat appeared +so insecure that I was unwilling to trust our lives to the +uncertainties of the lake. I therefore unwillingly resolved to +terminate our survey here, and remain satisfied for the present with +what we had been able to add to the unknown geography of the region. We +felt pleasure, also, in remembering that we were the first who, in the +traditionary annals of the country, had visited the islands, and +broken, with the cheerful sound of human voices, the long solitude of +the place. From the point where we were standing, the ground fell off +on every side to the water, giving us a perfect view of the island, +which is twelve or thirteen miles in circumference, being simply a +rocky hill, on which there is neither water nor trees of any kind; +although the _Fremontia vermicularis_, which was in great abundance, +might easily be taken for timber at a distance. The plant seemed here +to delight in a congenial air, growing in extraordinary luxuriance +seven to eight feet high, and was very abundant on the upper parts of +the island, where it was almost the only plant. This is eminently a +saline shrub; its leaves have a salt taste; and it luxuriates in saline +soils, where it is usually a characteristic. It is widely diffused over +all this country. A chenopodiaceous shrub, which is a new species of +OBIONE, (O. rigida, _Torr. and Frem_.,) was equally characteristic of +the lower parts of the island. These two are the striking plants on the +island, and belong to a class of plants which form a prominent feature +in the vegetation of this country. On the lower parts of the island, +also, a prickly pear of very large size was frequent. On the shore, +near the water, was a woolly species of _phaca_; and a new species of +umbelliferous plant (_leptotæmia_) was scattered about in very +considerable abundance. These constituted all the vegetation that now +appeared upon the island. + +I accidentally left on the summit the brass cover to the object end of +my spy-glass: and as it will probably remain there undisturbed by +Indians, it will furnish matter of speculation to some future traveler. +In our excursions about the island, we did not meet with any kind of +animal; a magpie, and another larger bird, probably attracted by the +smoke of our fire, paid us a visit from the shore, and were the only +living things seen during our stay. The rock constituting the cliffs +along the shore, where we were encamped, is a talcous rock, or +steatite, with brown spar. + +At sunset, the temperature was 70°. We had arrived just in time to +obtain a meridian altitude of the sun, and other observations were +obtained this evening, which placed our camp in latitude 41° 10' 42", +and longitude 112° 21' 05" from Greenwich. From a discussion of the +barometrical observations made during our stay on the shores of the +lake, we have adopted 4,200 feet for its elevation above the Gulf of +Mexico. In the first disappointment we felt from the dissipation of our +dream of the fertile islands, I called this _Disappointment island_. + +Out of the drift-wood, we made ourselves pleasant little lodges, open +to the water; and, after having kindled large fires to excite the +wonder of any straggling savage on the lake shores, lay down, for the +first time in a long journey, in perfect security; no one thinking +about his arms. The evening was extremely bright and pleasant; but the +wind rose during the night, and the waves began to break heavily on the +shore, making our island tremble. I had not expected in our inland +journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf; and the strangeness of our +situation, and the excitement we felt in the associated interest of the +place, made this one of the most interesting nights I made during our +long expedition. + +In the morning, the surf was breaking heavily on the shore, and we were +up early. The lake was dark and agitated, and we hurried through our +scanty breakfast, and embarked--having first filled one of the buckets +with water from the lake, of which it was intended to make salt. The +sun had risen by the time we were ready to start; and it was blowing a +strong gale of wind, almost directly off the shore, and raising a +considerable sea, in which our boat strained very much. It roughened as +we got away from the island, and it required all the efforts of the men +to make any head against the wind and sea, the gale rising with the +sun; and there was danger of being blown into one of the open reaches +beyond the island. At the distance of half a mile from the beach, the +depth of the water was 16 feet, with a clay bottom; but, as the working +of the boat was very severe labor, and during the operation of sounding +it was necessary to cease paddling, during which the boat lost +considerable way, I was unwilling to discourage the men, and +reluctantly gave up my intention of ascertaining the depth and the +character of the bed. There was a general shout in the boat when we +found ourselves in one fathom, and we soon after landed on a low point +of mud, immediately under the butte of the peninsula, where we unloaded +the boat, and carried the baggage about a quarter of a mile to firmer +ground. We arrived just in time for meridian observation, and carried +the barometer to the summit of the butte, which is 500 feet above the +lake. Mr. Preuss set off on foot for the camp, which was about nine +miles distant; Basil accompanying him, to bring back horses for the +boat and baggage. + +The rude-looking shelter we raised on the shore, our scattered baggage +and boat lying on the beach, made quite a picture; and we called this +the _Fisherman's camp_. _Lynosiris graveolens_, and another new species +of OBIONE, (O. confertifolia--_Torr. & Frem_.,) were growing on the low +grounds, with interspersed spots of an unwholesome salt grass, on a +saline clay soil, with a few other plants. + +The horses arrived late in the afternoon, by which time the gale had +increased to such a height that a man could scarcely stand before it; +and we were obliged to pack our baggage hastily, as the rising water of +the lake had already reached the point where we were halted. Looking +back as we rode off, we found the place of recent encampment entirely +covered. The low plain through which we rode to the camp was covered +with a compact growth of shrubs of extraordinary size and luxuriance. +The soil was sandy and saline; flat places, resembling the beds of +ponds, that were bare of vegetation, and covered with a powdery white +salt, being interspersed among the shrubs. Artemisia tridentata was +very abundant, but the plants were principally saline; a large and +vigorous chenopodiaceous shrub, five to eight feet high, being +characteristic, with Fremontia vermicularis, and a shrubby plant which +seems to be a new _salicornia_. We reached the camp in time to escape a +thunder-storm which blackened the sky, and were received with a +discharge of the howitzer by the people, who, having been unable to see +any thing of us on the lake, had begun to feel some uneasiness. + +11th.--To-day we remained at this camp, in order to obtain some further +observations, and to boil down the water which had been brought from +the lake, for a supply of salt. Roughly evaporated over the fire, the +five gallons of water yielded fourteen pints of very fine-grained and +very white salt, of which the whole lake may be regarded as a saturated +solution. A portion of the salt thus obtained has been subjected to +analysis, giving, in 100 parts, the following proportions. + + Analysis of the salt. + +Chloride of sodium, (common salt,) --- 97.80 Chloride of calcium, +----------------- 0.61 Chloride of magnesium, --------------- 0.24 +Sulphate of soda, -------------------- 0.23 Sulphate of lime, +-------------------- 1.12 + ______ + 100.00 + +Glancing your eye along the map, you will see a small stream entering +_Utah lake_, south of the Spanish fork, and the first waters of that +lake which our road of 1844 crosses in coming up from the southward. +When I was on this stream with Mr. Walker in that year, he informed me +that on the upper part of the river are immense beds of rock-salt of +very great thickness, which he had frequently visited. Farther to the +southward, the rivers which are affluent to the Colorado, such as the +Rio Virgen, and Gila river, near their mouths, are impregnated with +salt by the cliffs of rock-salt between which they pass. These mines +occur in the same ridge in which, about 120 miles to the northward, and +subsequently in their more immediate neighborhood, we discovered the +fossils belonging to the oolitic period, and they are probably +connected with that formation, and are the deposite from which the +Great Lake obtains its salt. Had we remained longer, we should have +found them in its bed, and in the mountains around its shores. By +observation the latitude of this camp is 41° 15' 50", and longitude +112° 06" 43". + +The observations made during our stay give for the rate of the +chronometer 31.72", corresponding almost exactly with the rate obtained +at St. Vrain's fort. Barometrical observations were made almost hourly +during the day. This morning we breakfasted on yampah, and had only +kamas for supper; but a cup of good coffee still distinguished us from +our _Digger_ acquaintances. + +12th.--The morning was clear and calm, with a temperature at sunrise of +32°. We resumed our journey late in the day, returning by nearly the +same route which we had traveled in coming to the lake; and, avoiding +the passage of Hawthorn creek, struck the hills a little below the hot +salt-springs. The flat plain we had here passed over consisted +alternately of tolerably good sandy soil and of saline plats. We +encamped early on Clear creek, at the foot of the high ridge; one of +the peaks of which we ascertained by measurement to be 4,210 feet above +the lake, or about 8,400 feet above the sea. Behind these front peaks +the ridge rises towards the Bear River mountains, which are probably as +high as the Wind River chain. This creek is here unusually well +timbered with a variety of trees. Among them were birch, (_betula_,) +the narrow-leaved poplar, (_populus angustifolia_,) several kinds of +willow, (_solix_,) hawthorn, (_cratægus_,) alder, (_alnus viridis_,) +and _cerasus_, with an oak allied to _quercus alba_, but very distinct +from that or any other species in the United States. + +We had to-night a supper of sea-gulls, which Carson killed near the +lake. Although cool, the thermometer standing at 47°, musquitoes were +sufficiently numerous to be troublesome this evening. + +13th.--Continuing up the river valley, we crossed several small +streams; the mountains on the right appearing to consist of the blue +limestone which we had observed in the same ridge to the northward, +alternating here with a granular quartz already mentioned. One of these +streams, which forms a smaller lake near the river, was broken up into +several channels; and the irrigated bottom of fertile soil was covered +with innumerable flowers, among which were purple fields of _eupatorium +purpureum_, with helianthi, a handsome solidago, (_S. canadensis_,) and +a variety of other plants in bloom. Continuing along the foot of the +hills, in the afternoon we found five or six hot-springs gushing out +together, beneath a conglomerate, consisting principally of fragments +of a grayish-blue limestone, efflorescing a salt upon the surface. The +temperature of these springs was 134°, and the rocks in the bed were +colored with a red deposite, and there was common salt crystallized on +the margin. There was also a white incrustation upon leaves and roots, +consisting principally of carbonate of lime. There were rushes seen +along the road this afternoon, and the soil under the hills was very +black, and apparently very good; but at this time the grass is entirely +dried up. We encamped on Bear river, immediately below a cut-off, the +canon by which the river enters this valley bearing north by compass. +The night was mild, with a very clear sky; and I obtained a very +excellent observation of an occultation of Tau. Arietis, with other +observations. Both immersion and emersion of the star were observed; +but, as our observations have shown, the phase at the bright limb +generally gives incorrect longitudes, and we have adopted the result +obtained from the emersion at the dark limb, without allowing any +weight to the immersion. According to these observations, the longitude +is 112° 05' 12", and the latitude 41° 42' 43". All the longitudes on +the line of our outward journey, between St. Vrain's fort and the +Dalles of the Columbia, which were not directly determined by +satellites, have been chronometrically referred to this place. + +The people to-day were rather low-spirited, hunger making them very +quiet and peaceable; and there was rarely an oath to be heard in the +camp--not even a solitary _enfant de garce_. It was time for the men +with an expected supply of provisions from Mr. Fitzpatrick to be in the +neighborhood; and the gun was fired at evening, to give notice of our +locality, but met with no response. + +14th.--About four miles from this encampment, the trail led us down to +the river, where we unexpectedly found an excellent ford--the stream +being widened by an island, and not yet disengaged from the hills at +the foot of the range. We encamped on a little creek where we had made +a noon halt in descending the river. The night was very clear and +pleasant, the sunset temperature being 67°. + +The people this evening looked so forlorn, that I gave them permission +to kill a fat young horse which I had purchased with goods from the +Snake Indians, and they were very soon restored to gayety and good +humor. Mr. Preuss and myself could not yet overcome some remains of +civilized prejudices, and preferred to starve a little longer; feeling +as much saddened as if a crime had been committed. + +The next day we continued up the valley, the soil being sometimes very +black and good, occasionally gravelly, and occasionally a kind of naked +salt plains. We found on the way this morning a small encampment of two +families of Snake Indians, from whom we purchased a small quantity of +_kooyah_. They had piles of seeds, of three different kinds, spread out +upon pieces of buffalo robe; and the squaws had just gathered about a +bushel of the root of a thistle, (_circium Virginianum_.) They were +about the ordinary size of carrots, and, as I have previously +mentioned, are sweet and well flavored, requiring only a long +preparation. They had a band of twelve or fifteen horses, and appeared +to be growing in the sunshine with about as little labor as the plants +they were eating. + +Shortly afterwards we met an Indian on horseback who had killed an +antelope, which we purchased of him for a little powder and some balls. +We crossed the Roseaux, and encamped on the left bank; halting early +for the pleasure of enjoying a wholesome and abundant supper, and were +pleasantly engaged in protracting our unusual comfort, when Tabeau +galloped into the camp with news that Mr. Fitzpatrick was encamped +close by us, with a good supply of provisions--flour, rice, and dried +meat, and even a little butter. Excitement to-night made us all +wakeful; and after a breakfast before sunrise the next morning, we were +again on the road, and, continuing up the valley, crossed some high +points of hills, and halted to noon on the same stream, near several +lodges of Snake Indians, from whom we purchased about a bushel of +service-berries, partially dried. By the gift of a knife, I prevailed +upon a little boy to show me the _kooyah_ plant, which proved to be +_valeriana edulis_. The root which constitutes the _kooyah_, is large, +of a very bright yellow color, with the characteristic odor, but not so +fully developed as in the prepared substance. It loves the rich moist +soil of river bottoms, which was the locality in which I always +afterwards found it. It was now entirely out of bloom; according to my +observation, flowering in the months of May and June. In the afternoon +we entered a long ravine leading to a pass in the dividing ridge +between the waters of Bear river and the Snake river, or Lewis's fork +of the Columbia; our way being very much impeded, and almost entirely +blocked up, by compact fields of luxuriant artemisia. Taking leave at +this point of the waters of Bear river, and of the geographical basin +which encloses the system of rivers and creeks which belong to the +Great Salt Lake, and which so richly deserves a future detailed and +ample exploration, I can say of it, in general terms, that the bottoms +of this river, (Bear,) and of some of the creeks which I saw, form a +natural resting and recruiting station for travelers, now, and in all +time to come. The bottoms are extensive; water excellent; timber +sufficient; the soil good, and well adapted to grains and grasses +suited to such an elevated region. A military post, and a civilized +settlement, would be of great value here; grass and salt so much +abound. The lake will furnish exhaustless supplies of salt. All the +mountains here are covered with a valuable nutritious grass, called +bunch-grass, from the form in which it grows, which has a second growth +in the fall. The beasts of the Indians were fat upon it; our own found +it a good subsistence; and its quantity will sustain any amount of +cattle, and make this truly a bucolic region. + +We met here an Indian family on horseback, which had been out to gather +service-berries, and were returning loaded. This tree was scattered +about on the hills; and the upper part of the pass was timbered with +aspen, (_populus trem._;) the common blue flowering-flax occurring +among the plants. The approach to the pass was very steep, and the +summit about 6,300 feet above the sea--probably only an uncertain +approximation, as at the time of observation it was blowing a violent +gale of wind from the northwest, with _cumuli_ scattered in masses over +the sky, the day otherwise bright and clear. We descended, by a steep +slope, into a broad open valley--good soil--from four to five miles +wide, coming down immediately upon one of the head-waters of the +Pannack river, which here loses itself in swampy ground. The appearance +of the country here is not very interesting. On either side is a +regular range of mountains of the usual character, with a little +timber, tolerably rocky on the right, and higher and more smooth on the +left, with still higher peaks looking out above the range. The valley +afforded a good level road, but it was late when it brought us to +water, and we encamped at dark. The north-west wind had blown up very +cold weather, and the artemisia, which was our firewood to-night, did +not happen to be very abundant. This plant loves a dry, sandy soil, and +cannot grow in the good bottoms where it is rich and moist, but on +every little eminence, where water does not rest long, it maintains +absolute possession. Elevation above the sea about 5,100 feet. + +At night scattered fires glimmered along the mountains, pointing out +camps of the Indians; and we contrasted the comparative security in +which we traveled through this country with the guarded vigilance we +were compelled to exert among the Sioux and other Indians on the +eastern side of the Rocky mountains. + +At sunset the thermometer was at 50°, and at midnight at 30°. + +17th.--The morning sky was calm and clear, the temperature at daylight +being 25°, and at sunrise 20°. There is throughout this country a +remarkable difference between the morning and mid-day temperatures, +which at this season was very generally 40° or 50°, and occasionally +greater; and frequently, after a very frosty morning, the heat in a few +hours would render the thinnest clothing agreeable. About noon we +reached the main fork. The Pannack river was before us, the valley +being here 11/2 miles wide, fertile, and bordered by smooth hills, not +over 500 feet high, partly covered with cedar; a high ridge, in which +there is a prominent peak, rising behind those on the left. We +continued to descend this stream, and found on it at night a warm and +comfortable camp. Flax occurred so frequently during the day as to be +almost a characteristic, and the soil appeared excellent. The evening +was gusty, with a temperature at sunset of 59°. I obtained, about +midnight, an observation of an emersion of the first satellite, the +night being calm and very clear, the stars remarkably bright, and the +thermometer at 30°. Longitude, from mean of satellite and chronometer, +112° 29' 52", and latitude, by observation, 42° 44' 40". + +18th.--The day clear and calm, with a temperature of 25° at sunrise. +After traveling seven or eight miles, we emerged on the plains of the +Columbia, in sight of the famous "_Three Buttes_," a well-known +landmark in the country, distant about 45 miles. The French word +_butte_, which so often occurs in this narrative, is retained from the +familiar language of the country, and identifies the objects to which +it refers. It is naturalized in the region of the Rocky mountains, and, +even if desirable to render it in English, I know of no word which +would be its precise equivalent. It is applied to the detached hills +and ridges which rise rapidly, and reach too high to be called hills or +ridges, and not high enough to be called mountains. _Knob_, as applied +in the western states, is their descriptive term in English. _Cerro_ is +the Spanish term; but no translation, or periphrasis, would preserve +the identity of these picturesque landmarks, familiar to the traveler, +and often seen at a great distance. Covered as far as could be seen +with artemisia, the dark and ugly appearance of this plain obtained for +it the name of _Sage Desert_; and we were agreeably surprised, on +reaching the Portneuf river, to see a beautiful green valley with +scattered timber spread out beneath us, on which, about four miles +distant, were glistening the white walls of the fort. The Portneuf runs +along the upland plain nearly to its mouth, and an abrupt descent of +perhaps two hundred feet brought us down immediately upon the stream, +which at the ford is one hundred yards wide, and three feet deep, with +clear water, a swift current, and gravelly bed; but a little higher up +the breadth was only about thirty-five yards, with apparently deep +water. + +In the bottom I remarked a very great number of springs and sloughs, +with remarkably clear water and gravel beds. At sunset we encamped with +Mr. Talbot and our friends, who came on to Fort Hall when we went to +the lake, and whom we had the satisfaction to find all well, neither +party having met with any mischance in the interval of our separation. +They, too, had had their share of fatigue and scanty provisions, as +there had been very little game left on the trail of the populous +emigration; and Mr. Fitzpatrick had rigidly husbanded our stock of +flour and light provisions, in view of the approaching winter and the +long journey before us. + +19th.--This morning the sky was very dark and gloomy, and at daylight +it began snowing thickly, and continued all day, with cold, +disagreeable weather. At sunrise the temperature was 43°. I rode up to +the fort, and purchased from Mr. Grant (the officer in charge of the +post) several very indifferent horses, and five oxen, in very fine +order, which were received at the camp with great satisfaction: and, +one being killed at evening, the usual gayety and good humor were at +once restored. Night came in stormy. + +20th.--We had a night of snow and rain, and the thermometer at sunrise +was at 34°; the morning was dark, with a steady rain, and there was +still an inch of snow on the ground, with an abundance on the +neighboring hills and mountains. The sudden change in the weather was +hard for our animals, who trembled and shivered in the cold--sometimes +taking refuge in the timber, and now and then coming out and raking the +snow off the ground for a little grass, or eating the young willows. + +21st.--Ice made tolerably thick during this night, and in the morning +the weather cleared up very bright, with a temperature at sunrise of +29°; and I obtained a meridian observation for latitude at the fort, +with observations for time. The sky was again covered in the afternoon, +and the thermometer at sunset 48°. + +22d.--The morning was cloudy and unpleasant, and at sunrise a cold rain +commenced, with a temperature of 41°. + +The early approach of winter, and the difficulty of supporting a large +party, determined me to send back a number of the men who had become +satisfied that they were not fitted for the laborious service and +frequent privation to which they were necessarily exposed, and which +there was reason to believe would become more severe in the further +extension of the voyage. I accordingly called them together, and, +informing them of my intention to continue our journey during the +ensuing winter, in the course of which they would probably be exposed +to considerable hardship, succeeded in prevailing on a number of them +to return voluntarily. These were: Charles de Forrest, Henry Lee, J. +Campbell, Wm. Creuss, A. Vasquez; A. Pera, Patrick White, B. Tesson, M. +Creely, François Lajeunesse, Basil Lajeunesse. Among these I regretted +very much to lose Basil Lajeunesse, one of the best men in my party, +who was obliged, by the condition of his family, to be at home in the +coming winter. Our preparations having been completed in the interval +of our stay here, both parties were ready this morning to resume their +respective routes. + +Except that there is a greater quantity of wood used in its +construction, Fort Hall very much resembles the other trading posts +which have already been described to you, and would be another +excellent post of relief for the emigration. It is in the low rich +bottom of a valley, apparently 20 miles long, formed by the confluence +of Portneuf river with Lewis's fork of the Columbia, which it enters +about nine miles below the fort, and narrowing gradually to the mouth +of the Pannack river, where it has a breadth of only two or three +miles. Allowing 50 miles for the road from the _Beer springs_ of Bear +river to Fort Hall, its distance along the _traveled_ road from the +town of Westport, on the frontier of Missouri, by way of Fort Laramie +and the great South Pass, is 1,323 miles. Beyond this place, on the +line of road along the _barren_ valley of the Upper Columbia, there +does not occur, for a distance of nearly 300 miles to the westward, a +fertile spot of ground sufficiently large to produce the necessary +quantity of grain, or pasturage enough to allow even a temporary repose +to the emigrants. On their recent passage, they had been able to +obtain, at very high prices and in insufficient quantity, only such +assistance as could be afforded by a small and remote trading-post--and +that a foreign one--which, in the supply of its own wants, had +necessarily drawn around it some of the resources of civilization, but +which obtained nearly all its supplies from the distant depot of +Vancouver, by a difficult water-carriage of 250 miles up the Columbia +river, and a land-carriage by pack-horses of 600 miles. An American +military post, sufficiently strong to give to their road a perfect +security against the Indian tribes, who are unsettled in locality and +very _uncertain_ in their disposition, and which, with the necessary +facilities for the repair of their equipage, would be able to afford +them relief in stock and grain from the produce of the post, would be +of extraordinary value to the emigration. Such a post (and all others +which may be established on the line to Oregon) would naturally form +the _nucleus_ of a settlement, at which supplies and repose would be +obtained by the emigrant, or trading caravans, which may hereafter +traverse these elevated, and, in many places, desolate and inhospitable +regions. + +I subjoin an analysis of the soil in the river bottom near Fort Hall, +which will be of assistance in enabling you to form some correct idea +of its general character in the neighboring country. I characterize it +as good land, but the analysis will show its precise properties. + + _Analysis of the Soil_. + +Silicina ----------------- 68.55 Alumina ------------------- 7.45 +Carbonate of lime --------- 8.51 Carbonate of magnesia ----- 5.09 Oxide +of iron ------------- 1.40 Organic vegetable matter -- 4.74 Water and +loss ----------- 4.26 + ______ + + 100.00 + +Our observations place this post in longitude 112° 29' 54", latitude +43° 01' 30", and the elevation above the sea, 4,500 feet. + +Taking leave of the homeward party, we resumed our journey down the +valley, the weather being very cold, and the rain coming in hard gusts, +which the wind blew directly in our faces. We forded the Portneuf in a +storm of rain, the water in the river being frequently up to the axles, +and about 110 yards wide. After the gust, the weather improved a +little, and we encamped about three miles below, at the mouth of the +Pannack river, on Lewis's fork, which here has a breadth of about 120 +yards. The temperature at sunset was 42°; the sky partially covered +with dark, rainy clouds. + +23d.--The temperature at sunrise was 32°; the morning dark, and snow +falling steadily and thickly, with a light air from the southward. +Profited of being obliged to remain in camp, to take hourly +barometrical observations from sunrise to midnight. The wind at eleven +o'clock set in from the north-ward in heavy gusts, and the snow changed +into rain. In the afternoon, when the sky brightened, the rain had +washed all the snow from the bottoms; but the neighboring mountains, +from summit to foot, were luminously white--an inauspicious +commencement of the autumn, of which this was the first day. + +24th.--The thermometer at sunrise was 35°, and a blue sky in the west +promised a fine day. The river bottoms here are narrow and swampy, with +frequent sloughs; and after crossing the Pannack, the road continued +along the uplands, rendered very slippery by the soil of wet clay, and +entirely covered with artemisia bushes, among which occur frequent +fragments of obsidian. At noon we encamped in a grove of willows, at +the upper end of a group of islands about half a mile above the +_American falls_ of Snake river. Among the willows here, were some +bushes of Lewis and Clarke's currant, (_ribes aureum_.) The river here +enters between low mural banks, which consist of a fine vesicular +trap-rock, the intermediate portions being compact and crystalline. +Gradually becoming higher in its downward course, these banks of +scoriated volcanic rock form, with occasional interruptions, its +characteristic feature along the whole line to the Dalles of the Lower +Columbia, resembling a chasm which had been rent through the country, +and which the river had afterwards taken for its bed. The immediate +valley of the river is a high plain covered with black rocks and +artemisias. In the south is a bordering range of mountains, which, +although not very high, are broken and covered with snow; and at a +great distance to the north is seen the high, snowy line of the Salmon +river mountains, in front of which stand out prominently in the plain +the three isolated rugged-looking mountains commonly known as the +_Three Buttes_. Between the river and the distant Salmon river range, +the plain is represented by Mr. Fitzpatrick as so entirely broken up +and rent into chasms as to be impracticable for a man even on foot. In +the sketch annexed, the point of view is low, but it conveys very well +some idea of the open character of the country, with the buttes rising +out above the general line. By measurement, the river above is 870 feet +wide, immediately contracted at the fall in the form of a lock, by +jutting piles of scoriaceous basalt, over which the foaming river must +present a grand appearance at the time of high water. The evening was +clear and pleasant, with dew; and at sunset the temperature was 54°. By +observation, the latitude is 42° 47' 05", and the longitude 112° 40' +13". A few hundred yards below the falls, and on the left bank of the +river is an escarpment from which we obtained some specimens. + +25th.--Thermometer at sunrise 47°. The day came in clear, with a strong +gale from the south, which commenced at eleven of the last night. The +road to-day led along the river which is full of rapids and small +falls. Grass is very scanty and along the rugged banks are scattered +cedars, with an abundance of rocks and sage. We traveled fourteen +miles, and encamped in the afternoon near the river, on a rocky creek, +the bed of which was entirely occupied with boulders of a very large +size. For the last three or four miles the right bank of the river has +a palisaded appearance. One of the oxen was killed here for food. The +thermometer at evening was at 55°, the sky almost overcast, and the +barometer indicated an elevation of 4,400 feet. + +26th.--Rain during the night, and the temperature at sunrise 42°. +Traveling along the river, in about four miles we reached a picturesque +stream, to which we gave the name of Fall creek. It is remarkable for +the many falls which occur in a short distance; and its bed is composed +of a calcareous tufa, or vegetable rock, composed principally of the +remains of reeds and mosses, resembling that at the _Basin spring_, on +Bear river. + +The road along the river bluffs had been occasionally very bad; and +imagining that some rough obstacles rendered such a detour necessary, +we followed for several miles a plain wagon-road leading up this +stream, until we reached a point whence it could be seen making +directly towards a low place in the range on the south side of the +valley, and we became immediately aware that we were on a trail formed +by a party of wagons, in company with whom we had encamped at Elm +grove, near the frontier of Missouri, and which you will remember were +proceeding to Upper California under the direction of Mr. Jos. Chiles. +At the time of their departure, no practicable passes were known in the +southern Rocky mountains within the territory of the United States; and +the probable apprehension of difficulty in attempting to pass near the +settled frontier of New Mexico, together with the desert character of +the unexplored region beyond, had induced them to take a more northern +and circuitous route by way of the Sweet Water pass and Fort Hall. They +had still between them and the valley of the Sacramento a great mass of +mountains, forming the _Sierra Nevada_, here commonly known as the +_Great California mountain_, and which were at this time considered as +presenting an impracticable barrier to wheeled-carriages. Various +considerations had suggested to them a division of the party; and a +greater portion of the camp, including the wagons, with the mail and +other stores, were now proceeding under the guidance of Mr. Joseph +Walker, who had engaged to conduct them, by a long sweep to the +southward, around what is called the _point of the mountain_; and, +crossing through a pass known only to himself, gain the banks of the +Sacramento by the valley of the San Joaquin. It was a long and a +hazardous journey for a party in which there were women and children. +Sixty days was the shortest period of time in which they could reach +the point of the mountain, and their route lay through a country +inhabited by wild and badly-disposed Indians, and very poor in game; +but the leader was a man possessing great and intimate knowledge of the +Indians, with an extraordinary firmness and decision of character. In +the mean time, Mr. Chiles had passed down the Columbia with a party of +ten or twelve men, with the intention of reaching the settlements on +the Sacramento by a more direct course, which indefinite information +from hunters had indicated in the direction of the head-waters of the +_Rivière aux Malheurs_; and having obtained there a reinforcement of +animals, and a supply of provisions, meet the wagons before they should +have reached the point of the mountain, at a place which had been +previously agreed upon. In the course of our narrative, we shall be +able to give you some information of the fortunes which attended the +movements of these adventurous travelers. + +Having discovered our error, we immediately regained the line along the +river, which the road quitted about noon, and encamped at five o'clock +on the stream called Raft river, (_Rivière aux Cajeux_,) having +traveled only 13 miles. In the north, the Salmon River mountains are +visible at a very far distance; and on the left, the ridge in which +Raft river heads is about 20 miles distant, rocky, and tolerably high. +Thermometer at sunset 44°, with a partially clouded sky, and a sharp +wind from the S.W. + +27th.--It was now no longer possible, as in our previous journey, to +travel regularly every day, and find at any moment a convenient place +for repose at noon or a camp at night; but the halting-places were now +generally fixed along the road, by the nature of the country, at places +where, with water, there was a little scanty grass. Since leaving the +American falls, the road had frequently been very bad; the many short, +steep ascents, exhausting the strength of our worn-out animals, +requiring always at such places the assistance of the men to get up +each cart, one by one; and our progress with twelve or fourteen +wheeled-carriages, though light and made for the purpose, in such a +rocky country, was extremely slow; and I again determined to gain time +by a division of the camp. Accordingly, to-day, the parties again +separated, constituted very much as before--Mr. Fitzpatrick remaining +in charge of the heavier baggage. + +The morning was calm and clear, with a white frost, and the temperature +at sunrise 24°. + +To-day the country had a very forbidding appearance; and, after +traveling 20 miles over a slightly undulating plain, we encamped at a +considerable spring, called Swamp creek, rising in low grounds near the +point of a spur from the mountain. Returning with a small party in a +starving condition from the westward 12 or 14 years since, Carson had +met here three or four buffalo bulls, two of which were killed. They +were among the pioneers which had made the experiment of colonizing in +the valley of the Columbia, and which had failed, as heretofore stated. +At sunset the thermometer was at 46°, and the evening was overcast, +with a cool wind from the S.E., and to-night we had only sage for +firewood. Mingled with the artemisia was a shrubby and thorny +chenopodiaceous plant. + +28th.-Thermometer at sunrise 40°. The wind rose early to a gale from +the west, with a very cold driving rain; and, after an uncomfortable +day's ride of 25 miles, we, were glad when at evening we found a +sheltered camp, where there was an abundance of wood, at some elevated +rocky islands covered with cedar, near the commencement of another long +canon of the river. With the exception of a short detention at a deep +little stream called Goose creek, and some occasional rocky places, we +had to-day a very good road; but the country has a barren appearance, +sandy, and densely covered with the artemisias from the banks of the +river to the foot of the mountains. Here I remarked, among the sage +bushes, green bunches of what is called the second growth of grass. The +river to-day has had a smooth appearance, free from rapids, with a low +sandy hill-slope bordering the bottoms, in which there is a little good +soil. Thermometer at sunset 45°, blowing a gale, and disagreeably cold. + +29th.--The thermometer at sunrise 36°, with a bright sun, and +appearance of finer weather. The road for several miles was _extremely_ +rocky, and consequently bad; but, entering after this a sandy country, +it became very good, with no other interruption than the sage bushes, +which covered the river plain as far as the eye could reach, and, with +their uniform tint of dark gray, gave to the country a gloomy and +sombre appearance. All the day the course of the river has been between +walls of the black volcanic rock, a dark line of the escarpment on the +opposite side pointing out its course, and sweeping along in foam at +places where the mountains which border the valley present always on +the left two ranges, the lower one a spur of the higher; and, on the +opposite side, the Salmon River mountains are visible at a great +distance. Having made 24 miles, we encamped about five o'clock on Rock +creek--a stream having considerable water, a swift current, and wooded +with willow. + +30th.--Thermometer at sunrise 28°. In its progress towards the river, +this creek soon enters a chasm of the volcanic rock, which in places +along the wall presents a columnar appearance; and the road becomes +extremely rocky whenever it passes near its banks. It is only about +twenty feet wide where the road crosses it, with a deep bed, and steep +banks, covered with rocky fragments, with willows and a little grass on +its narrow bottom. The soil appears to be full of calcareous matter, +with which the rocks are incrusted. The fragments of rock which had +been removed by the emigrants in making a road, where we ascended from +the bed of this creek, were whitened with lime; and during the +afternoon's march I remarked in the soil a considerably quantity of +calcareous concretions. Towards evening the sages became more sparse, +and the clear spaces were occupied by tufts of green grass. The river +still continued its course through a trough, or open canon; and towards +sunset we followed the trail of several wagons which had turned in +towards Snake river, and encamped, as they had done, on the top of the +escarpment. There was no grass here, the soil among the sage being +entirely naked; but there is occasionally a little bottom along the +river, which a short ravine of rocks, at rare intervals, leaves +accessible; and by one of these we drove our animals down, and found +some tolerably good grass bordering the water. + +Immediately opposite to us, a subterranean river bursts out directly +from the face of the escarpment, and falls in white foam to the river +below. The main river is enclosed with mural precipices, which form its +characteristic feature along a great portion of its course. A +melancholy and strange-looking country--one of fracture, and violence, +and fire. + +We had brought with us, when we separated from the camp, a large gaunt +ox, in appearance very poor; but, being killed to-night, to the great +joy of the people, he was found to be remarkably fat. As usual at such +occurrences, the evening was devoted to gayety and feasting; abundant +fare now made an epoch among us; and in this laborious life, in such a +country as this, our men had but little else to enjoy. The temperature +at sunset was 65°, with a clear sky and a very high wind. By the +observation of the evening, the encampment was in longitude 114° 25' +04", and in latitude 42° 38' 44". + + + +OCTOBER. + + +1st.--The morning clear, with wind from the west, and the thermometer +at 55°. We descended to the bottoms, taking with us the boat, for the +purpose of visiting the fall in the opposite cliffs; and while it was +being filled with air, we occupied ourselves in measuring the river, +which is 1,786 feet in breadth, with banks 200 feet high. We were +surprised, on our arrival at the opposite side, to find a beautiful +basin of clear water, formed by the falling river, around which the +rocks were whitened by some saline incrustation. Here the Indians had +constructed wicker dams, although I was informed that the salmon do not +ascend the river so far; and its character below would apparently +render it impracticable. + +The ascent of the steep hill-side was rendered a little difficult by a +dense growth of shrubs and fields of cane; and there were frequent +hidden crevices among the rocks, where the water was heard rushing +below; but we succeeded in reaching the main stream, which, issuing +from between strata of the trap-rock in two principal branches, +produced almost immediately a torrent, 22 feet wide, and white with +foam. It is a picturesque spot of singular beauty, overshadowed by +bushes, from under which the torrent glances, tumbling into the white +basin below, where the clear water contrasted beautifully with the +muddy stream of the river. Its outlet was covered with a rank growth of +canes, and a variety of unusual plants, and nettles, (_urtica +canabina_,) which, before they were noticed, had set our hands and arms +on fire. The temperature of the spring was 58°, while that of the river +was 51°. The perpendicular height of the place at which this stream +issues is 45 feet above the river, and 162 feet below the summit of the +precipice--making nearly 200 feet for the height of the wall. On the +hill-side here was obtained a specimen consisting principally of +fragments of the shells of small crustacea, and which was probably +formed by deposition from these springs, proceeding from some lake or +river in the highlands above. + +We resumed our journey at noon, the day being hot and bright; and, +after a march of 17 miles, encamped at sunset on the river, near +several lodges of Snake Indians. + +Our encampment was about one mile below the _Fishing falls_--a series +of cataracts with very inclined planes, which are probably so named +because they form a barrier to the ascent of the salmon; and the great +fisheries, from which the inhabitants of this barren region almost +entirely derive a subsistence, commence at this place. These appeared +to be unusually gay savages, fond of loud laughter; and, in their +apparent good nature and merry character, struck me as being entirely +different from the Indians we had been accustomed to see. From several +who visited our camp in the evening, we purchased, in exchange for +goods, dried salmon. At this season they are not very fat, but we were +easily pleased. The Indians made us comprehend, that when the salmon +came up the river in the spring, they are so abundant that they merely +throw in their spears at random, certain of bringing out a fish. + +These poor people are but slightly provided with winter clothing; there +is but little game to furnish skins for the purpose; and of a little +animal which seemed to be the most numerous, it required 20 skins to +make a covering to the knees. But they are still a joyous, talkative +race, who grow fat and become poor with the salmon, which at least +never fail them--the dried being used in the absence of the fresh. We +are encamped immediately on the river bank, and with the salmon jumping +up out of the water, and Indians paddling about in boats made of +rushes, or laughing around the fires, the camp to-night has quite a +lively appearance. + +The river at this place is more open than for some distance above, and, +for the time, the black precipices have disappeared, and no calcareous +matter is visible in the soil. The thermometer at sunset 74°, clear and +calm. + +2d.--The sunrise temperature was 48°; the weather clear and calm. +Shortly after leaving the encampment, we crossed a stream of clear +water, with a variable breadth of 10 to 25 yards, broken by rapids, and +lightly wooded with willow, and having a little grass on its small +bottom-land. The barrenness of the country is in fine contrast to-day +with the mingled beauty and grandeur of the river, which is more open +than hitherto, with a constant succession of falls and rapids. Over the +edge of the black cliffs, and out from their faces, are falling +numberless streams and springs; and all the line of the river is in +motion with the play of the water. In about seven miles we reached the +most beautiful and picturesque fall I had seen on the river. + +On the opposite side, the vertical fall is perhaps 18 feet high; and +nearer, the sheet of foaming water is divided and broken into +cataracts, where several little islands on the brink and in the river +above, give it much picturesque beauty, and make it one of those places +the traveler turns again and again to fix in his memory. There were +several lodges of Indians here, from whom we traded salmon. Below this +place the river makes a remarkable bend; and the road, ascending the +ridge, gave us a fine view of the river below, intersected at many +places by numerous fish dams. In the north, about 50 miles distant, +were some high snowy peaks of the Salmon River mountains; and in the +northeast, the last peak of the range was visible at the distance of +perhaps 100 miles or more. The river hills consist of very broken +masses of sand, covered everywhere with the same interminable fields of +sage, and occasionally the road is very heavy. We now frequently saw +Indians, who were strung along the river at every little rapid where +fish are to be caught, and the cry _haggai, haggai_, (fish,) was +constantly heard whenever we passed near their huts, or met them in the +road. Very many of them were oddly and partially dressed in overcoat, +shirt, waistcoat, or pantaloons, or whatever article of clothing they +had been able to procure in trade from the emigrants; for we had now +entirely quitted the country where hawks' bells, beads, and vermilion +were the current coin, and found that here only useful articles, and +chiefly clothing, were in great request. These, however, are eagerly +sought after; and for a few trifling pieces of clothing, travelers may +procure food sufficient to carry them to the Columbia. + +We made a long stretch across the upper plain, and encamped on the +bluff, where the grass was very green and good, the soil of the upper +plains containing a considerable proportion of calcareous matter. This +green freshness of the grass was very remarkable for the season of the +year. Again we heard the roar of the fall in the river below, where the +water in an unbroken volume goes over a descent of several feet. The +night is clear, and the weather continues very warm and pleasant, with +a sunset temperature of 70°. + +3d.--The morning was pleasant, with a temperature at sunrise of 42°. +The road was broken by ravines among the hills, and in one of these, +which made the bed of a dry creek, I found a fragmentary stratum, or +brecciated conglomerate, consisting of flinty slate pebbles, with +fragments of limestone containing fossil shells. + +On the left, the mountains are visible at the distance of 20 or 30 +miles, appearing smooth and rather low; but at intervals higher peaks +look out from beyond, and indicate that the main ridge, which we are +leaving with the course of the river, and which forms the northern +boundary of the Great Basin, still maintains its elevation. About two +o'clock we arrived at the ford where the road crosses to the right bank +of Snake river. An Indian was hired to conduct us through the ford, +which proved impracticable for us, the water sweeping away the howitzer +and nearly drowning the mules, which we were obliged to extricate by +cutting them out of the harness. The river here is expanded into a +little bay, in which there are two islands, across which is the road of +the ford; and the emigrants had passed by placing two of their heavy +wagons abreast of each other, so as to oppose a considerable mass +against the body of water. The Indians informed us that one of the men, +in attempting to turn some cattle which had taken a wrong direction, +was carried off by the current and drowned. Since their passage, the +water had risen considerably; but, fortunately, we had a resource in a +boat, which was filled with air and launched; and at seven o'clock we +were safely encamped on the opposite bank, the animals swimming across, +and the carriage, howitzer, and baggage of the camp, being carried over +in the boat. At the place where we crossed, above the islands, the +river had narrowed to a breadth of 1,049 feet by measurement, the +greater portion of which was from six to eight feet deep. We were +obliged to make our camp where we landed, among the Indian lodges, +which are semicircular huts made of willow, thatched over with straw, +and open to the sunny south. By observation, the latitude of our +encampment on the right bank of the river was 42° 55' 58"; chronometric +longitude 115° 04' 46", and the traveled distance from Fort Hall 208 +miles. + +4th.--Calm, pleasant day, with the thermometer at sunrise at 47°. +Leaving the river at a considerable distance to the left, and following +up the bed of a rocky creek, with occasional holes of water, in about +six miles we ascended, by a long and rather steep hill, to a plain 600 +feet above the river, over which we continued to travel during the day, +having a broken ridge 2,000 or 3,000 feet high on the right. The plain +terminates, where we ascended, in an escarpment of vesicular trap-rock, +which supplies the fragments of the creek below. The sky clouded over +with a strong wind from the northwest, with a few drops of rain and +occasional sunlight, threatening a change. + +Artemisia still covers the plain, but _Purshia tridentata_ makes its +appearance here on the hill-sides and on bottoms of the creeks--quite a +tree in size, larger than the artemisia. We crossed several hollows +with a little water in them, and improved grass; and, turning off from +the road in the afternoon in search of water, traveled about three +miles up the bed of a willow creek, towards the mountain, and found a +good encampment, with wood and grass, and little ponds of water in the +bed of the creek; which must be of more importance at other seasons, as +we found there several old fixtures for fishing. There were many holes +on the creek prairie, which had been made by the Diggers in search of +roots. + +Wind increased to a violent gale from the N.W., with a temperature at +sunset of 57°. + +5th..--The morning was calm and clear, and at sunrise the thermometer +was at 32°. The road to-day was occasionally extremely rocky, with hard +volcanic fragments, and our traveling very slow. In about nine miles +the road brought us to a group of smoking hot springs, with a +temperature of 164°. There were a few helianthi in bloom, with some +other low plants, and the place was green round about; the ground warm +and the air pleasant, with a summer atmosphere that was very grateful +in a day of high and cold, searching wind. The rocks were covered with +a white and red incrustation; and the water has on the tongue the same +unpleasant effect as that of the Basin spring on Bear river. They form +several branches, and bubble up with force enough to raise the small +pebbles several inches. The following is an analysis of the deposite +with which the rocks are incrusted: + +Silica------------------------ 72.55 Carbonate of lime------------- +14.60 Carbonate of magnesia -------- 1.20 Oxide of +iron----------------- 4.65 Alumina----------------------- 0.70 + +Chloride of sodium, &c.-- } Sulphate of soda--------- }---- 1.10 +Sulphate of lime, &c.---- } + +Organic vegetable matter- }---- 5.20 Water and loss----------- } + ______ + 100.00 + +These springs are near the foot of the ridge, (a dark and +rugged-looking mountain,) in which some of the nearer rocks have a +reddish appearance, and probably consist of a reddish-brown trap, +fragments of which were scattered along the road after leaving the +spring. The road was now about to cross the point of this mountain, +which we judged to be a spur from the Salmon River range. We crossed a +small creek, and encamped about sunset on a stream, which is probably +Lake river. This is a small stream, some five or six feet broad, with a +swift current, timbered principally with willows and some few +cottonwoods. Along the banks were canes, rosebushes, and clematis, with +Purshia tridentata and artemisias on the upper bottom. The sombre +appearance of the country is somewhat relieved in coming unexpectedly +from the dark rocks upon these green and wooded water-courses, sunk in +chasms; and, in the spring, the contrasted effect must make them +beautiful. + +The thermometer at sunset 47°, and the night threatening snow. + +6th.--The morning warm, the thermometer 46° at sunrise, and sky +entirely clouded. After traveling about three miles over an extremely +rocky road, the volcanic fragments began to disappear; and, entering +among the hills at the point of the mountain, we found ourselves +suddenly in a granite country. Here, the character of the vegetation +was very much changed; the artemisia disappeared almost entirely, +showing only at intervals towards the close of the day, and was +replaced by Purshia tridentata, with flowering shrubs, and small fields +of _dieteria divaricata,_ which gave bloom and gayety to the hills. +These were everywhere covered with a fresh and green short grass, like +that of the early spring. This is the fall or second growth, the dried +grass having been burnt off by the Indians; and wherever the fire has +passed, the bright, green color is universal. The soil among the hills +is altogether different from that of the river plain, being in many +places black, in others sandy and gravelly, but of a firm and good +character, appearing to result from the decomposition of the granite +rocks, which is proceeding rapidly. + +In quitting for a time the artemisia (sage) through which we had been +so long voyaging, and the sombre appearance of which is so +discouraging, I have to remark, that I have been informed that in +Mexico wheat is grown upon the ground which produces this shrub; which, +if true, relieves the soil from the character of sterility imputed to +it. Be this as it may, there is no dispute about the grass, which is +almost universal on the hills and mountains, and always nutritious, +even in its dry state. We passed on the way masses of granite on the +slope of the spur, which was very much weathered and abraded. This is a +white feldspathic granite, with small scales of black mica; smoky +quartz and garnets appear to constitute this portion of the mountain. + +The road at noon reached a broken ridge, on which were scattered many +boulders or blocks of granite; and, passing very small streams, where, +with a little more than the usual timber, was sometimes gathered a +little wilderness of plants, we encamped on a small stream, after a +march of 22 miles, in company with a few Indians. Temperature at sunset +51°; and the night was partially clear, with a few stars visible +through drifting white clouds. The Indians made an unsuccessful attempt +to steal a few horses from us--a thing of course with them, and to +prevent which the traveler is on perpetual watch. + +7th.--The day was bright, clear, pleasant, with a temperature of 45°; +and we breakfasted at sunrise, the birds singing in the trees as +merrily as if we were in the midst of summer. On the upper edge of the +hills on the opposite side of the creek, the black volcanic rock +appears; and ascending these, the road passed through a basin, around +which the hills swept in such a manner as to give it the appearance of +an old crater. Here were strata and broken beds of black scoriated +rock, and hills composed of the same, on the summit of one of which +there was an opening resembling a rent. We traveled to-day through a +country resembling that of yesterday, where, although the surface was +hilly, the road was good, being firm, and entirely free from rocks and +artemisia. To our left, below, was the great sage plain; and on the +right were the near mountains, which presented a smoothly-broken +character, or rather a surface waved into numberless hills. The road +was occasionally enlivened by meeting Indians, and the day was +extremely beautiful and pleasant; and we were pleased to be free from +the sage, even for a day. When we had traveled about eight miles, we +were nearly opposite to the highest portion of the mountains on the +left side of the Smoke River valley; and, continuing on a few miles +beyond, we came suddenly in sight of the broad green line of the valley +of the _Rivière Boisée_, (wooded river,) black near the gorge where it +debouches into the plains, with high precipices of basalt, between +walls of which it passes, on emerging from the mountains. Following +with the eye its upward course, it appears to be shut in among lofty +mountains, confining its valley in a very rugged country. + +Descending the hills, after traveling a few miles along the high plain, +the road brought us down upon the bottoms of the river, which is a +beautiful, rapid stream, with clear mountain water; and, as the name +indicates, well wooded with some varieties of timber--among which are +handsome cottonwoods. Such a stream had become quite a novelty in this +country, and we were delighted this afternoon to make a pleasant camp +under fine old trees again. There were several Indian encampments +scattered along the river; and a number of their inhabitants, in the +course of the evening, came to the camp on horseback with dried and +fresh fish, to trade. The evening was clear, and the temperature at +sunset 57°. + +At the time of the first occupation of this region by parties engaged +in the fur-trade, a small party of men, under the command of ----- +Reid, constituting all the garrison of a small fort on this river, were +surprised and massacred by the Indians; and to this event the stream +owes its occasional name of _Reid's river_. On the 8th we traveled +about 26 miles, the ridge on the right having scattered pines on the +upper parts; and, continuing the next day our road along the river +bottom, after a day's travel of 24 miles, we encamped in the evening on +the right bank of the river, a mile above the mouth, and early the next +morning arrived at Fort _Boise_. This is a simple dwelling-house on the +right bank of Snake river, about a mile below the mouth of Rivière +Boisée; and on our arrival we were received with an agreeable +hospitality by Mr. Payette, an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, in +charge of the fort, all of whose garrison consisted in a Canadian +_engagé_. + +Here the road recrosses the river, which is broad and deep; but, with +our good boat, aided by two canoes, which were found at the place, the +camp was very soon transferred to the left bank. Here we found +ourselves again surrounded by the sage; artemisia tridentata, and the +different shrubs which during our voyage had always made their +appearance abundantly on saline soils, being here the prevailing and +almost the only plants. Among them the surface was covered with the +usual saline efflorescences, which here consist almost entirely of +carbonate of soda, with a small portion of chloride of sodium. Mr. +Payette had made but slight attempts at cultivation, his efforts being +limited to raising a few vegetables, in which he succeeded tolerably +well; the post being principally supported by salmon. He was very +hospitable and kind to us, and we made a sensible impression upon all +his comestibles; but our principal inroad was into the dairy, which was +abundantly supplied, stock appearing to thrive extremely well; and we +had an unusual luxury in a present of fresh butter, which was, however, +by no means equal to that of Fort Hall--probably from some accidental +cause. During the day we remained here, there were considerable numbers +of miserable, half-naked Indians around the fort, who had arrived from +the neighboring mountains. During the summer, the only subsistence of +these people is derived from the salmon, of which they are not +provident enough to lay up a sufficient store for the winter, during +which many of them die from absolute starvation. + +Many little accounts and scattered histories, together with an +acquaintance which I gradually acquired of their modes of life, had +left the aboriginal inhabitants of this vast region pictured in my mind +as a race of people whose great and constant occupation was the means +of procuring a subsistence; and though want of space and other reasons +will prevent me from detailing the many incidents which made this +familiar to me, this great feature among the characteristics of the +country will gradually be forced upon your mind. + +Pointing to the group of Indians who had just arrived from the +mountains on the left side of the valley, and who were regarding our +usual appliances of civilization with an air of bewildered curiosity, +Mr. Payette informed me that, every year since his arrival at this +post, he had unsuccessfully endeavored to induce these people to lay up +a store of salmon for their winter provision. While the summer weather +and the salmon lasted, they lived contentedly and happily, scattered +along the different streams where fish are to be found; and as soon as +the winter snows began to, fall, little smokes would be seen rising +among the mountains, where they would be found in miserable groups, +starving out the winter; and sometimes, according to the general +belief, reduced to the horror of cannibalism--the strong, of course, +preying on the weak. Certain it is they are driven to any extremity for +food, and eat every insect, and every creeping thing, however loathsome +and repulsive. Snails, lizards, ants--all are devoured with the +readiness and greediness of mere animals. + +In common with all the other Indians we had encountered since reaching +the Pacific waters, these people use the Shoshonee or Snake language, +which you will have occasion to remark, in the course of the narrative, +is the universal language over a very extensive region. + +On the evening of the 10th, I obtained, with the usual observations, a +very excellent emersion of the first satellite, agreeing very nearly +with the chronometer. From these observations, the longitude of the +fort is 116° 47' 00", latitude 43° 49' 22", and elevation above the sea +2,100 feet. + +Sitting by the fire on the river bank, and waiting for the immersion of +the satellite, which did not take place until after midnight, we heard +the monotonous song of the Indians, with which they accompany a certain +game of which they are very fond. Of the poetry we could not judge, but +the music was miserable. + +11th.--The morning was clear, with a light breeze from the east, and a +temperature at sunrise of 33°. A part of a bullock purchased at the +fort, together with the boat, to assist him in crossing, was left here +for Mr. Fitzpatrick, and at 11 o'clock we resumed our journey; and +directly leaving the river, and crossing the artemisia plain, in +several ascents we reached the foot of a ridge, where the road entered +a dry sandy hollow, up which it continued to the head; and, crossing a +dividing ridge, entered a similar one. We met here two poor emigrants, +(Irishmen,) who had lost their horses two days since--probably stolen +by the Indians; and were returning to the fort, in hopes to hear +something of them there. They had recently had nothing to eat; and I +halted to unpack an animal, and gave them meat for their dinner. In +this hollow, the artemisia is partially displaced on the hill-sides by +grass; and descending it -- miles, about sunset we reached the _Rivière +aux Malheurs_, (the unfortunate or unlucky river,)--a considerable +stream, with an average breadth of 50 feet, and, at this time, 18 +inches' depth of water. + +The bottom lands were generally one and a half mile broad, covered +principally with long dry grass; and we had difficulty to find +sufficient good grass for the camp. With the exception of a bad place +of a few hundred yards long, which occurred in rounding a point of hill +to reach the ford of the river, the road during the day had been very +good. + +12th.--The morning was clear and calm, and the thermometer at sunrise +23°. My attention was attracted by a smoke on the right side of the +river, a little below the ford, where I found, on the low banks near +the water, a considerable number of hot springs, in which the +temperature of the water was 193°. The ground, which was too hot for +the naked foot, was covered above and below the springs with an +incrustation of common salt, very white and good, and fine-grained. + +Leading for five miles up a broad dry branch of the Malheurs river, the +road entered a sandy hollow, where the surface was rendered firm by the +admixture of other rock; being good and level until arriving near the +head of the ravine, where it became a little rocky, and we met with a +number of sharp ascents over an undulating surface. Crossing here a +dividing ridge, it becomes an excellent road of gradual descent down a +very marked hollow; in which, after ten miles, willows began to appear +in the dry bed of a head of the _Rivière aux Bouleaux_, (Birch river;) +and descending seven miles, we found, at its junction with another +branch, a little water, not very good or abundant, but sufficient, in +case of necessity, for a camp. Crossing Birch river, we continued for +about four miles across a point of hill; the country on the left being +entirely mountainous, with no level spot to be seen; whence we +descended to Snake river--here a fine-looking stream, with a large body +of water and a smooth current; although we hear the roar, and see below +us the commencement of rapids, where it enters among the hills. It +forms here a deep bay, with a low sand island in the midst; and its +course among the mountains is agreeably exchanged for the black +volcanic rock. The weather during the day had been very bright and +extremely hot; but, as usual, so soon as the sun went down, it was +necessary to put on overcoats. + +I obtained this evening an observation of an emersion of the first +satellite, and our observations of the evening place this encampment in +latitude 44° 17' 36", and longitude 116° 56' 45", which is the mean of +the results from the satellite and chronometer. The elevation above the +sea is 1,880 feet. At this encampment, the grass is scanty and poor. + +13th.--The morning was bright, with the temperature at sunrise 28°. The +horses had strayed off during the night, probably in search of grass; +and, after a considerable delay, we had succeeded in finding all but +two, when, about nine o'clock, we heard the sound of an Indian song and +drum approaching; and shortly after, three Cayuse Indians appeared in +sight, bringing with them the two animals. They belonged to a party +which had been on a buffalo-hunt in the neighborhood of the Rocky +mountains, and were hurrying home in advance. We presented them with +some tobacco and other things, with which they appeared well satisfied, +and, moderating their pace, traveled in company with us. + +We were now about to leave the valley of the great southern branch of +the Columbia river, to which the absence of timber, and the scarcity of +water, give the appearance of a desert, to enter a mountainous region, +where the soil is good, and in which the face of the country is covered +with nutritious grasses and dense forest--land embracing many varieties +of trees peculiar to the country, and on which the timber exhibits a +luxuriance of growth unknown to the eastern part of the continent and +to Europe. This mountainous region connects itself in the southward and +westward with the elevated country belonging to the Cascade or +California range; and, as will be remarked in the course of the +narrative, forms the eastern limit of the fertile and timbered lands +along the desert and mountainous region included within the Great +Basin--a term which I apply to the intermediate region between the +Rocky mountains and the next range, containing many lakes, with their +own system of rivers and creeks, (of which the Great Salt is the +principal,) and which have no connection with the ocean, or the great +rivers which flow into it. This Great Basin is yet to be adequately +explored. And here, on quitting the banks of a sterile river, to enter +on arable mountains, the remark may be made, that, on this western +slope of our continent, the usual order or distribution of good and bad +soil is often reversed; the river and creek bottoms being often +sterile, and darkened with the gloomy and barren artemisia; while the +mountain is often fertile, and covered with rich grass, pleasant to the +eye, and good for flocks and herds. + +Leaving entirely the Snake river, which is said henceforth to pursue +its way through canons, amidst rocky and impracticable mountains, where +there is no possibility of traveling with animals, we ascended a long +and steep hill; and crossing the dividing ridge, came down into the +valley of _Burnt_ river, which here looks like a hole among the hills. +The average breadth of the stream here is thirty feet; it is well +fringed with the usual small timber; and the soil in the bottoms is +good, with better grass than we had lately been accustomed to see. + +We now traveled through a very mountainous country; the stream running +rather in a ravine than a valley, and the road is decidedly bad and +dangerous for single wagons, frequently crossing the stream where the +water is sometimes deep; and all the day the animals were fatigued in +climbing up and descending a succession of steep ascents, to avoid the +precipitous hill-sides; and the common trail, which leads along the +mountain-side at places where the river strikes the base, is sometimes +bad even for a horseman. The mountains along this day's journey were +composed, near the river, of a slaty calcareous rock in a metamorphic +condition. It appears originally to have been a slaty sedimentary +limestone, but its present condition indicates that it has been +altered, and has become partially crystalline--probably from the +proximity of volcanic rocks. But though traveling was slow and +fatiguing to the animals, we were delighted with the appearance of the +country, which was green and refreshing after our tedious journey down +the parched valley of Snake river. The mountains were covered with good +bunch-grass, (_festuca_;) the water of the streams was cold and pure; +their bottoms were handsomely wooded with various kinds of trees; and +huge and lofty picturesque precipices where the river cut through the +mountain. + +We found in the evening some good grass and rushes; and encamped among +large timber, principally birch, which had been recently burnt, and +blackened, and almost destroyed by fire. The night was calm and +tolerably clear, with the thermometer at sunset at 59°. Our journey +to-day was about twenty miles. + +14th.--The day was clear and calm, with a temperature at sunrise of +46°. After traveling about three miles up the valley, we found the +river shut up by precipices in a kind of canon, and the road makes a +circuit over the mountains. In the afternoon we reached the river +again, by another little ravine; and, after traveling along it for a +few miles, left it enclosed among rude mountains; and, ascending a +smaller branch; encamped on it about five o'clock, very much elevated +above the valley. The view was everywhere limited by mountains, on +which were no longer seen the black and barren rocks, but a fertile +soil, with excellent grass, and partly well covered with pine. I have +never seen a wagon-road equally bad in the same space, as this of +yesterday and to-day. I noticed where one wagon had been overturned +twice, in a very short distance; and it was surprising to me that those +wagons which were in the rear, and could not have had much assistance, +got through at all. Still, there is no mud; and the road has one +advantage, in being perfectly firm. The day had been warm and very +pleasant, and the night was perfectly clear. + +15th.--The thermometer at daylight was 42°, and at sunrise 40°; clouds, +which were scattered over all the sky, disappeared with the rising sun. +The trail did not much improve until we had crossed the dividing-ground +between the _Brûlée_ (Burnt) and Powder rivers. The rock displayed on +the mountains, as we approached the summit, was a compact trap, +decomposed on the exposed surfaces, and apparently an altered +argillaceous sandstone, containing small crystalline nodules of +anolcime, apparently filling cavities originally existing. From the +summit here, the whole horizon shows high mountains; no high plain or +level is to be seen; and on the left, from south around by the west to +north, the mountains are black with pines; while, through the remaining +space to the eastward, they are bald, with the exception of some +scattered pines. You will remark that we are now entering a region +where all the elevated parts are covered with dense and heavy forests. +From the dividing grounds we descended by a mountain road to Powder +river, on an old bed of which we encamped. Descending from the summit, +we enjoyed a picturesque view of high rocky mountains on the right, +illuminated by the setting sun. + +From the heights we had looked in vain for a well known landmark on +Powder river, which had been described to me by Mr. Payette as _l'arbre +seul_, (the lone tree;) and, on arriving at the river, we found a fine +tall pine stretched on the ground, which had been felled by some +inconsiderate emigrant axe. It had been a beacon on the road for many +years past. Our Cayuses had become impatient to reach their homes, and +traveled on ahead to day; and this afternoon we were visited by several +Indians who belonged to the tribes on the Columbia. They were on +horseback, and were out on a hunting excursion, but had obtained no +better game than a large gray hare, of which each had some six or seven +hanging to his saddle. We were also visited by an Indian who had his +lodge and family in the mountain to the left. He was in want of +ammunition, and brought with him a beaver-skin to exchange, and which +he valued at six charges of powder and ball. I learned from him that +there are very few of these animals remaining in this part of the +country. + +The temperature at sunset was 61°, and the evening clear. I obtained, +with other observations, an immersion and emersion of the third +satellite. Elevation 3,100 feet. + +16th.--For several weeks the weather in the daytime has been very +beautiful, clear, and warm; but the nights, in comparison, are very +cold. During the night there was ice a quarter of an inch thick in the +lodge; and at daylight the thermometer was at 16°, and the same at +sunrise, the weather being calm and clear. The annual vegetation now is +nearly gone, almost all the plants being out of bloom. + +Last night two of our horses had run off again, which delayed us until +noon, and we made to-day but a short journey of 13 miles, the road +being very good, and encamped in a fine bottom of Powder river. + +The thermometer at sunset was at 61°, with an easterly wind, and +partially clear sky; and the day has been quite pleasant and warm, +though more cloudy than yesterday; and the sun was frequently faint, +but it grew finer and clearer towards evening. + +17th.--Thermometer at sunrise 25°. The weather at daylight was fine, +and the sky without a cloud; but these came up, or were formed by the +sun, and at seven were thick over all the sky. Just now, this appears +to be the regular course--clear and brilliant during the night, and +cloudy during the day. There is snow yet visible in the neighboring +mountains, which yesterday extended along our route to the left, in a +lofty and dark-blue range, having much the appearance of the Wind River +mountains. It is probable that they have received their name of the +_Blue mountains_ from the dark-blue appearance given to them by the +pines. We traveled this morning across the affluents to Powder river, +the road being good, firm, and level, and the country became constantly +more pleasant and interesting. The soil appeared to be very deep, and +is black and extremely good, as well among the hollows of the hills on +the elevated plats, as on the river bottoms, the vegetation being such +as is usually found in good ground. The following analytical result +shows the precise qualities of this soil, and will justify to science +the character of fertility which the eye attributes to it: + +_Analysis of Powder river soil._ + + +Silica ----------------- 72.30 Alumina ---------------- 6.25 Carbonate +of lime ------ 6.86 Carbonate of magnesia -- 4.62 Oxide of iron +---------- 1.20 Organic matter --------- 4.50 Water and loss +--------- 4.27 + ______ + 100.00 + +From the waters of this stream, the road ascended by a good and +moderate ascent to a dividing ridge, but immediately entered upon +ground covered with fragments of an altered silicious slate, which are +in many places large, and render the road racking to a carriage. In +this rock the planes of deposition are distinctly preserved, and the +metamorphism is evidently due to the proximity of volcanic rocks. On +either side, the mountains here are densely covered with tall and +handsome trees; and, mingled with the green of a variety of pines, is +the yellow of the European larch, (_pinus larix_,) which loses its +leaves in the fall. From its present color, we were enabled to see that +it forms a large proportion of the forests on the mountains, and is +here a magnificent tree, attaining sometimes the height of 200 feet, +which I believe is elsewhere unknown. About two in the afternoon we +reached a high point of the dividing ridge, from which we obtained a +good view of the _Grand Rond_--a beautiful level basin, or mountain +valley, covered with good grass, on a rich soil, abundantly watered, +and surrounded by high and well-timbered mountains--and its name +descriptive of its form--the great circle. It is a place--one of the +few we have seen on our journey so far--where a farmer would delight to +establish himself, if he were content to live in the seclusion which it +imposes. It is about 20 miles in diameter, and may, in time, form a +superb county. Probably with the view of avoiding a circuit, the wagons +had directly descended into the _Rond_ by the face of a hill so very +rocky and continuously steep as to be apparently impracticable, and, +following down on their trail, we encamped on one of the branches of +the Grand Rond river, immediately at the foot of the hill. I had +remarked, in descending, some very white spots glistening on the plain, +and, going out in that direction after we had encamped, I found them to +be the bed of a dry salt lake, or marsh, very firm and bare, which was +covered thickly with a fine white powder, containing a large quantity +of carbonate of soda, (thirty-three in one hundred parts.) + +The old grass had been lately burnt off from the surrounding hills, +and, wherever the fire had passed, there was a recent growth of strong, +green, and vigorous grass; and the soil of the level prairie, which +sweeps directly up to the foot of the surrounding mountains, appears to +be very rich, producing flax spontaneously and luxuriantly in various +places. + + _Analysis of Grand Rond soil._ + +Silica,---------------------------------- 70.81 +Alumina,--------------------------------- 10.97 Lime and +magnesia,----------------------- 1.38 Oxide of +iron,--------------------------- 2.21 Vegetable matter, partly +decomposed,---- 8.16 Water and loss,-------------------------- 5.46 +Phosphate of lime,----------------------- 1.01 + ______ + 100.00 + +The elevation of this encampment is 2,940 feet above the sea. + +18th.--It began to rain an hour before sunrise, and continued until ten +o'clock; the sky entirely overcast, and the temperature at sunrise 48°. + +We resumed our journey somewhat later than usual, travelling in a +nearly north direction across the beautiful valley; and about noon +reached a place on one of the principal streams, where I had determined +to leave the emigrant trail, in the expectation of finding a more +direct and better road across the Blue mountains. At this place the +emigrants appeared to have held some consultation as to their further +route, and finally turned directly off to the left; reaching the foot +of the mountain in about three miles, which they ascended by a hill as +steep and difficult as that by which we had yesterday descended to the +Rond. Quitting, therefore, this road, which, after a very rough +crossing, issues from the mountains by the heads of the _Umatilah_ +river, we continued our northern course across the valley, following an +Indian trail which had been indicated to me by Mr. Payette, and +encamped at the northern extremity of the Grand Rond, on a slough-like +stream of very deep water, without any apparent current. There are some +pines here on the low hills at the creek; and in the northwest corner +of the Rond is a very heavy body of timber, which descends into the +plain. The clouds, which had rested very low along the mountain sides +during the day, rose gradually up in the afternoon; and in the evening +the sky was almost entirely clear, with a temperature at sunset of 47°. +Some indifferent observations placed the camp in longitude 117° 28' +26", latitude 45° 26' 47"; and the elevation was 2,600 feet above the +sea. + +19th.--This morning the mountains were hidden by fog; there was a heavy +dew during the night, in which the exposed thermometer at daylight +stood at 32°, and at sunrise the temperature was 35°. + +We passed out of the Grand Rond by a fine road along the creek, which, +for a short distance, runs in a kind of rocky chasm. Crossing a low +point, which was a little rocky, the trail conducted into the open +valley of the stream--a handsome place for farms; the soil, even of the +hills, being rich and black. Passing through a point of pines, which +bore evidences of being very much frequented by the Indians, and in +which the trees were sometimes apparently 200 feet high, and three to +seven feet in diameter, we halted for a few minutes in the afternoon at +the foot of the Blue mountains, on a branch of the Grand Rond river, at +an elevation of 2,700 feet. Resuming our journey, we commenced the +ascent of the mountains through an open pine forest of large and +stately trees, among which the balsam pine made its appearance; the +road being good, with the exception of one steep ascent, with a +corresponding descent, which might both have been easily avoided by +opening the way for a short distance through the timber. It would have +been well had we encamped on the stream where we had halted below, as +the night overtook us on the mountain, and we were obliged to encamp +without water, and tie up the animals to the trees for the night. We +halted on a smooth open place of a narrow ridge, which descended very +rapidly to a ravine or piny hollow, at a considerable distance below; +and it was quite a pretty spot, had there been water near. But the +fires at night look very cheerless after a day's march, when there is +no preparation for supper going on; and, after sitting some time around +the blazing logs, Mr. Preuss and Carson, with several others, +volunteered to take the India-rubber buckets and go down into the +ravine in search of water. It was a very difficult way in the darkness +down the slippery side of the steep mountain, and harder still to climb +about half a mile up again; but they found the water, and the cup of +coffee (which it enabled us to make) and bread were only enjoyed with +greater pleasure. + +At sunset the temperature was 46°; the evening remarkably clear; and I +obtained an emersion of the first satellite, which does not give a good +result, although the observation was a very good one. The chronometric +longitude was 117° 28' 34", latitude 45° 38' 07", and we had ascended +to an elevation of 3,830 feet. It appeared to have snowed yesterday on +the mountains, their summits showing very white to-day. + +20th.--There was a heavy white frost during the night, and at sunrise +the temperature was 37°. + +The animals had eaten nothing during the night; and we made an early +start, continuing our route among the pines, which were more dense than +yesterday, and still retained their magnificent size. The larches +cluster together in masses on the side of the mountains, and their +yellow foliage contrasts handsomely with the green of the balsam and +other pines. After a few miles we ceased to see any pines, and the +timber consisted of several varieties of spruce, larch, and balsam +pine, which have a regularly conical figure. These trees appeared from +60 to nearly 200 feet in height; the usual circumference being 10 to 12 +feet, and in the pines sometimes 21 feet. In open places near the +summit, these trees became less high and more branching, the conical +form having a greater base. The instrument carriage occasioned much +delay, it being frequently necessary to fell trees and remove the +fallen timber. The trail we were following led up a long spur, with a +very gradual and gentle rise. At the end of three miles, we halted at +an open place near the summit, from which we enjoyed a fine view over +the mountainous country where we had lately traveled, to take a +barometrical observation at the height of 4,460 feet. + +After traveling occasionally through open places in the forest, we were +obliged to cut a way through a dense body of timber, from which we +emerged on an open mountain-side, where we found a number of small +springs, and encamped after a day's journey of ten miles. Our elevation +here was 5,000 feet. + +21st.--There was a very heavy white frost during the night, and the +thermometer at sunrise was 30°. + +We continued to travel through the forest, in which the road was +rendered difficult by fallen trunks, and obstructed by many small +trees, which it was necessary to cut down. But these are only +accidental difficulties, which could easily be removed, and a very +excellent road may be had through this pass, with no other than very +moderate ascents or declivities. A laborious day, which had advanced us +only six miles on the road, brought us in the afternoon to an opening +in the forest, in which there was a fine mountain meadow, with good +grass, and a large clear-water stream--one of the head branches of the +_Umatilah_ river. During this day's journey, the barometer was broken; +and the elevations above the sea, hereafter given, depend upon the +temperature of boiling water. Some of the white spruces which I +measured to-day were twelve feet in circumference, and one of the +larches ten; but eight feet was the average circumference of those +measured along the road. I held in my hand a tape line as I walked +along, in order to form some correct idea of the size of the timber. +Their height appeared to be from 100 to 180, and perhaps 200 feet, and +the trunks of the larches were sometimes 100 feet without a limb; but +the white spruces were generally covered with branches nearly to the +root. All these trees have their branches, particularly the lower ones, +declining. + +22d.--The white frost this morning was like snow on the ground; the ice +was a quarter of an inch thick on the creek, and the thermometer at +sunrise was at 20°. But, in a few hours, the day became warm and +pleasant, and our road over the mountains was delightful and full of +enjoyment. + +The trail passed sometimes through very thick young timber, in which +there was much cutting to be done; but, after traveling a few miles, +the mountains became more bald, and we reached a point from which there +was a very extensive view in the northwest. We were on the western +verge of the Blue mountains, long spurs of which, very precipitous on +either side extended down into the valley, the waters of the mountain +roaring between them. On our right was a mountain plateau, covered with +a dense forest; and to the westward, immediately below us, was the +great _Nez Perce_ (pierced nose) prairie, in which dark lines of timber +indicated the course of many affluents to a considerable stream that +was pursuing its way across the plain towards what appeared to be the +Columbia river. This I knew to be the Walahwalah river, and occasional +spots along its banks, which resembled clearings, were supposed to be +the mission or Indian settlements; but the weather was smoky and +unfavorable to far views with the glass. The rock displayed here in the +escarpments is a compact amorphous trap, which appears to constitute +the mass of the Blue mountains in this latitude; and all the region of +country through which we have traveled since leaving the Snake river +has been the seat of violent and extensive igneous action. Along the +Burnt River valley, the strata are evidently sedimentary rocks, altered +by the intrusion of volcanic products, which in some instances have +penetrated and essentially changed their original condition. Along our +line of route from this point to the California mountains, there seems +but little essential change. All our specimens of sedimentary rocks +show them much altered, and volcanic productions appear to prevail +throughout the whole intervening distance. + +The road now led along the mountain side, around heads of the +precipitous ravines; and keeping men ahead to clear the road, we passed +alternately through bodies of timber and small open prairies, and +encamped in a large meadow, in view of the great prairie below. + +At sunset the thermometer was at 40°, and the night was very clear and +bright. Water was only to be had here by descending a bad ravine, into +which we drove our animals, and had much trouble with them in a very +close growth of small pines. Mr. Preuss had walked ahead and did not +get into the camp this evening. The trees here maintained their size, +and one of the black spruces measured 15 feet in circumference. In the +neighborhood of the camp, pines have reappeared here among the timber. + +23d.--The morning was very clear; there had been a heavy white frost +during the night, and at sunrise the thermometer was at 31°. + +After cutting through two thick bodies of timber, in which I noticed +some small trees of _hemlock_ spruce, (_perusse_) the forest became +more open, and we had no longer any trouble to clear a way. The pines +here were 11 or 12 feet in circumference, and about 110 feet high, and +appeared to love the open grounds. The trail now led along one of the +long spurs of the mountain, descending gradually towards the plain; and +after a few miles traveling, we emerged finally from the forest, in +full view of the plain below, and saw the snowy mass of Mount Hood, +standing high out above the surrounding country at the distance of 180 +miles. The road along the ridge was excellent, and the grass very green +and good; the old grass having been burnt off early in the autumn. +About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we reached a little bottom of the +Walahwalah river, where we found Mr. Preuss, who yesterday had reached +this place, and found himself too far in advance of the camp to return. +The stream here has just issued from the narrow ravines, which are +walled with precipices, in which the rock has a brown and more burnt +appearance than above. + +At sunset the thermometer was at 48°, and our position was in longitude +118° 00' 39", and in latitude 45° 53' 35". + +The morning was clear, with a temperature at sunrise of 24°. Crossing +the river, we traveled over a hilly country with a good bunch-grass; +the river bottom, which generally contains the best soil in other +countries, being here a sterile level of rocks and pebbles. We had +found the soil in the Blue mountains to be of excellent quality, and it +appeared also to be good here among the lower hills. Reaching a little +eminence over which the trail passed, we had an extensive view along +the course of the river, which was divided and spread over its bottom +in a network of water, receiving several other tributaries from the +mountains. There was a band of several hundred horses grazing on the +hills about two miles ahead; and as we advanced on the road we met +other bands, which Indians were driving out to pasture also on the +hills. True to its general character, the reverse of other countries, +the hills and mountains here were rich in grass, the bottoms barren and +sterile. + +In six miles we crossed a principal fork, below which the scattered +waters of the river were gathered into one channel; and, passing on the +way several unfinished houses; and some cleared patches, where corn and +potatoes were cultivated, we reached, in about eight miles further, the +missionary establishment of Dr. Whitman, which consisted at this time +of one _adobe_ house--_i.e._, built of unburnt bricks as in Mexico. + +I found Dr. Whitman absent on a visit to the _Dalles_ of the Columbia; +but had the pleasure to see a fine-looking family of emigrants, men, +women, and children, in robust health, all indemnifying themselves for +previous scanty fare, in a hearty consumption of potatoes, which are +produced here of a remarkably good quality. We were disappointed in our +expectation of obtaining corn-meal or flour at this station, the mill +belonging to the mission having been lately burned down; but an +abundant supply of excellent potatoes banished regrets, and furnished a +grateful substitute for bread. A small town of Nez Perce Indians gave +an inhabited and even a populous appearance to the station; and, after +remaining about an hour, we continued our route and encamped on the +river about four miles below, passing on the way an emigrant encampment. + +Temperature at sunset, 49°. + +25th..--The weather was pleasant, with a sunrise temperature of 36°. +Our road to-day had nothing in it of interest; and the country offered +to the eye only a sandy, undulating plain, through which a +scantily-timbered river takes its course. We halted about three miles +above the mouth, on account of grass; and the next morning arrived at +the Nez Perce fort, one of the trading establishments of the Hudson Bay +Company, a few hundred yards above the junction of the Walahwalah with +the Columbia river. Here we had the first view of this river, and found +it about 1,200 yards wide, and presenting the appearance of a fine, +navigable stream. We made our camp in a little grove of willows on the +Walahwalah, which are the only trees to be seen in the neighborhood; +but were obliged to send the animals back to the encampment we had +left, as there was scarcely a blade of grass to be found. The post is +on the bank of the Columbia, on a plain of bare sands, from which the +air was literally filled with clouds of dust and sand, during one of +the few days we remained here; this place being one of the several +points on the river which are distinguished for prevailing high winds, +that come from the sea. The appearance of the post and country was +without interest, except that we here saw, for the first time, the +great river on which the course of events for the last half century has +been directing attention and conferring historical fame. The river is, +indeed, a noble object, and has here attained its full magnitude. About +nine miles above, and in sight from the heights about this post, is the +junction of the two great forks which constitute the main stream--that +on which we had been traveling from Fort Hall, and known by the names +of Lewis's fork, Shoshonee, and Snake river; and the North fork, which +has retained the name of Columbia, as being the main stream. + +We did not go up to the junction, being pressed for time; but the union +of two large streams, coming one from the southeast, and the other from +the northeast, and meeting in what may be treated as the geographical +centre of the Oregon valley, thence doubling the volume of water to the +ocean, while opening two great lines of communication with the interior +continent, constitutes a feature in the map of the country which cannot +be overlooked; and it was probably in reference to this junction of +waters, and these lines of communication, that this post was +established. They are important lines, and, from the structure of the +country, must forever remain so,--one of them leading to the South Pass +and to the valley of the Mississippi, the other to the pass at the head +of the Athabasca river, and to the countries drained by the waters of +the Hudson Bay. The British fur companies now use both lines; the +Americans, in their emigration to Oregon, have begun to follow the one +which leads towards the United States. Bateaux from tide-water ascend +to the junction, and thence high up the North fork, or Columbia. Land +conveyance only is used upon the line of Lewis's fork. To the emigrants +to Oregon, the Nez Perce is a point of great interest, as being, to +those who choose it, the termination of their overland journey. The +broad expanse of the river here invites them to embark on its bosom; +and the lofty trees of the forest furnish the means of doing so. + +From the South Pass to this place is about 1,000 miles; and as it is +about the same distance from that pass to the Missouri river at the +mouth of the Kansas, it may be assumed that 2,000 miles is the +_necessary_ land travel in crossing from the United States to the +Pacific ocean on this line. From the mouth of the Great Platte it would +be about 100 miles less. + +Mr. McKinley, the commander of the post, received us with great +civility; and both to myself, and the heads of the emigrants who were +there at the time, extended the rights of hospitality in a comfortable +dinner to which he invited us. + +By a meridional altitude of the sun, the only observation that the +weather permitted us to obtain, the mouth of the Walahwalah river is in +latitude 46° 03' 46"; and, by the road we had traveled, 612 miles from +Fort Hall. At the time of our arrival, a considerable body of +emigrants, under the direction of Mr. Applegate, a man of considerable +resolution and energy, had nearly completed the building of a number of +Mackinaw boats, in which they proposed to continue their further voyage +down the Columbia. I had seen, in descending the Walahwalah river, a +fine drove of several hundred cattle, which they had exchanged for +California cattle, to be received at Vancouver, and which are +considered a very inferior breed. The other portion of the emigration +had preferred to complete their journey by land along the banks of the +Columbia, taking their stock and wagons with them. + +Having reinforced our animals with eight fresh horses, hired from the +post, and increased our stock of provisions with dried salmon, +potatoes, and a little beef, we resumed our journey down the left bank +of the Columbia, being guided on our road by an intelligent Indian boy, +whom I had engaged to accompany us as far as the Dalles. + +From an elevated point over which the road led, we obtained another far +view of Mount Hood, 150 miles distant. We obtained on the river bank an +observation of the sun at noon, which gave for the latitude 45° 58' +08". The country to-day was very unprepossessing, and our road bad; and +as we toiled slowly along through deep loose sands, and over fragments +of black volcanic rock, our laborious traveling was strongly contrasted +with the rapid progress of Mr. Applegate's fleet of boats, which +suddenly came gliding swiftly down the broad river, which here chanced +to be tranquil and smooth. At evening we encamped on the river bank, +where there was very little grass, and less timber. We frequently met +Indians on the road, and they were collected at every favorable spot +along the river. + +29th.--The road continued along the river, and in the course of the day +Mount St. Helens, another snowy peak of the Cascade range, was visible. +We crossed the Umatilah river at a fall near its mouth. This stream is +of the same class as the Walahwalah river, with a bed of volcanic rock, +in places split into fissures. Our encampment was similar to that of +yesterday; there was very little grass, and no wood. The Indians +brought us some pieces for sale, which were purchased to make our fires. + +31st.--By observation, our camp is in latitude 45° 50' 05", and +longitude 119° 22' 18". The night has been cold, and we have white +frost this morning, with a temperature at daylight of 25°, and at +sunrise of 24°. The early morning was very clear, and the stars bright; +but, as usual, since we are on the Columbia, clouds formed immediately +with the rising sun. The day continued fine, the east being covered +with scattered clouds, but the west remaining clear, showing the +remarkable cone-like peak of Mount Hood brightly drawn against the sky. +This was in view all day in the southwest, but no other peaks of the +range were visible. Our road was a bad one, of very loose, deep sand. +We met on the way a party of Indians unusually well-dressed. They +appeared intelligent, and, in our slight intercourse, impressed me with +the belief that they possessed some aptitude for acquiring languages. + +We continued to travel along the river, the stream being interspersed +with many sand-bars (it being the season of low water) and with many +islands, and an apparently good navigation. Small willows were the only +wood; rock and sand the prominent geological feature. The rock of this +section is a very compact and tough basalt, occurring in strata which +have the appearance of being broken into fragments, assuming the form +of columnar hills, and appearing always in escarpments, with the broken +fragments strewed at the base and over the adjoining country. + +We made a late encampment on the river, and used to-night the _purshia +tridentata_ for firewood. Among the rocks which formed the bank, was +very good green grass. Latitude 45° 44' 23", longitude 119° 45' 09". + + + +NOVEMBER. + + +1st.--Mount Hood is glowing in the sunlight this morning, and the air +is pleasant, with a temperature of 38°. We continued down the river, +and, passing through a pretty green valley, bounded by high precipitous +rocks, encamped at the lower end. + +On the right shore, the banks of the Columbia are very high and steep; +the river is 1,690 feet broad, and dark bluffs of rock give it a +picturesque appearance. + +2d.--The river here entered among bluffs, leaving no longer room for a +road; and we accordingly left it, and took a more inland way among the +river hills--on which we had no sooner entered, than we found a great +improvement in the country. The sand had disappeared, and the soil was +good, and covered with excellent grass, although the surface was broken +into high hills, with uncommonly deep valleys. At noon we crossed John +Day's river, a clear and beautiful stream, with a swift current and a +bed of rolled stones. It is sunk in a deep valley, which is +characteristic of all the streams in this region; and the hill we +descended to reach it well deserves the name of mountain. Some of the +emigrants had encamped on the river, and others at the summit of the +farther hill, the ascent of which had probably cost their wagons a +day's labor; and others again had halted for the night a few miles +beyond, where they had slept without water. We also encamped in a +grassy hollow without water; but, as we had been forewarned of this +privation by the guide, the animals had all been watered at the river, +and we had brought with us a sufficient quantity for the night. + +3d.--After two hours' ride through a fertile, hilly country, covered, +as all the upland here appears to be, with good green grass, we +descended again into the river bottom, along which we resumed our +sterile road, and in about four miles reached the ford of the Fall +river, (_Rivière aux Chutes_,) a considerable tributary to the +Columbia. We had heard, on reaching the Nez Perce fort, a repetition of +the account in regard to the unsettled character of the Columbia +Indians at the present time; and to our little party they had at +various points manifested a not very friendly disposition, in several +attempts to steal our horses. At this place I expected to find a +badly-disposed band, who had plundered a party of 14 emigrant men a few +days before, and taken away their horses; and accordingly we made the +necessary preparation for our security, but happily met with no +difficulty. + +The river was high, divided into several arms, with a rocky island at +its outlet into the Columbia, which at this place it rivalled in size, +and apparently derived its highly characteristic name, which is +received from one of its many falls some forty miles up the river. It +entered the Columbia with a roar of falls and rapids, and is probably a +favorite fishing station among the Indians, with whom both banks of the +river were populous; but they scarcely paid any attention to us. The +ford was very difficult at this time, and, had they entertained any bad +intentions, they were offered a good opportunity to carry them out, as +I drove directly into the river, and during the crossing the howitzer +was occasionally several feet under water, and a number of the men +appeared to be more often below than above. Our guide was well +acquainted with the ford, and we succeeded in getting every thing safe +over to the left bank. We delayed here only a short time to put the gun +in order, and, ascending a long mountain hill, resumed our route again +among the interior hills. + +The roar of the _Falls of the Columbia_ is heard from the heights, +where we halted a few moments to enjoy a fine view of the river below. +In the season of high water, it would be a very interesting object to +visit, in order to witness what is related of the annual submerging of +the fall under the waters which back up from the basin below, +constituting a great natural lock at this place. But time had become an +object of serious consideration; and the Falls, in their present state, +had been seen and described by many. + +After a day's journey of 17 miles, we encamped among the hills on a +little clear stream, where, as usual, the Indians immediately gathered +round us. Among them was a very old man, almost blind from age, with +long and very white hair. I happened of my own accord to give this old +man a present of tobacco, and was struck with the impression which my +unpropitiated notice made on the Indians, who appeared in a remarkable +manner acquainted with the real value of goods, and to understand the +equivalents of trade. At evening, one of them spoke a few words to his +people, and, telling me that we need entertain no uneasiness in regard +to our animals, as none of them would be disturbed, they went all +quietly away. In the morning, when they again came to the camp, I +expressed to them the gratification we felt at their reasonable +conduct, making them a present of some large knives and a few smaller +articles. + +4th.--The road continued among the hills, and, reaching an eminence, we +saw before us, watered by a clear stream, a tolerably large valley, +through which the trail passed. + +In comparison with the Indians of the Rocky mountains and the great +eastern plain, these are disagreeably dirty in their habits. Their huts +were crowded with half-naked women and children, and the atmosphere +within was any thing but pleasant to persons who had just been riding +in the fresh morning air. We were somewhat amused with the scanty dress +of a woman, who, in common with the others, rushed out of the huts on +our arrival, and who, in default of other covering, used a child for a +fig-leaf. + +The road in about half an hour passed near an elevated point, from +which we overlooked the valley of the Columbia for many miles, and saw +in the distance several houses surrounded by fields, which a chief, who +had accompanied us from the village, pointed out to us as the Methodist +missionary station. + +In a few miles we descended to the river, which we reached at one of +its remarkably interesting features, known as the _Dalles of the +Columbia_. The whole volume of the river at this place passed between +the walls of a chasm, which has the appearance of having been rent +through the basaltic strata which form the valley-rock of the region. +At the narrowest place we found the breadth, by measurement, 58 yards, +and the average height of the walls above the water 25 feet; forming a +trough between the rocks--whence the name, probably applied by a +Canadian voyageur. The mass of water, in the present low state of the +river, passed swiftly between, deep and black, and curled into many +small whirlpools and counter currents, but unbroken by foam, and so +still that scarcely the sound of a ripple was heard. The rock, for a +considerable distance from the river, was worn over a large portion of +its surface into circular holes and well-like cavities, by the abrasion +of the river, which, at the season of high waters, is spread out over +the adjoining bottoms. + +In the recent passage through this chasm, an unfortunate event had +occurred to Mr. Applegate's party, in the loss of one of their boats, +which had been carried under water in the midst of the _Dalles_, and +two of Mr. Applegate's children and one man drowned. This misfortune +was attributed only to want of skill in the steersman, as at this +season there was no impediment to navigation; although the place is +entirely impassable at high water, when boats pass safely over the +great falls above, in the submerged state in which they then find +themselves. + +The basalt here is precisely the same as that which constitutes the +rock of the valley higher up the Columbia, being very compact, with a +few round cavities. + +We passed rapidly three or four miles down the level valley and +encamped near the mission. The character of the forest growth here +changes, and we found ourselves, with pleasure, again among oaks and +other forest-trees of the east, to which we had long been strangers; +and the hospitable and kind reception with which we were welcomed among +our country people at the mission, aided the momentary illusion of home. + +Two good-looking wooden dwelling-houses, and a large schoolhouse, with +stables, barn, and garden, and large cleared fields between the houses +and the river bank, on which were scattered the wooden huts of an +Indian village, gave to the valley the cheerful and busy air of +civilization, and had in our eyes an appearance of abundant and +enviable comfort. + +Our land journey found here its western termination. The delay involved +in getting our camp to the right bank of the Columbia, and in opening a +road through the continuous forest to Vancouver, rendered a journey +along the river impracticable; and on this side the usual road across +the mountain required strong and fresh animals, there being an interval +of three days in which they could obtain no food. I therefore wrote +immediately to Mr. Fitzpatrick, directing him to abandon the carts at +the Walahwalah missionary station, and, as soon as the necessary +pack-saddles could be made, which his party required, meet me at the +Dalles, from which point I proposed to commence our homeward journey. +The day after our arrival being Sunday, no business could be done at +the mission; but on Monday, Mr. Perkins assisted me in procuring from +the Indians a large canoe, in which I designed to complete our journey +to Vancouver, where I expected to obtain the necessary supply of +provisions and stores for our winter journey. Three Indians, from the +family to whom the canoe belonged, were engaged to assist in working +her during the voyage, and, with them, our water party consisted of Mr. +Preuss and myself, with Bernier and Jacob Dodson. In charge of the +party which was to remain at the Dalles I left Carson, with +instructions to occupy the people in making pack-saddles and refitting +their equipage. The village from which we were to take the canoe was on +the right bank of the river, about ten miles below, at the mouth of the +Tinanens creek: and while Mr. Preuss proceeded down the river with the +instruments, in a little canoe paddled by two Indians, Mr. Perkins +accompanied me with the remainder of the party by land. The last of the +emigrants had just left the Dalles at the time of our arrival, +traveling some by water and others by land, making ark-like rafts, on +which they had embarked their families and households, with their large +wagons and other furniture, while their stock were driven along the +shore. + +For about five miles below the Dalles, the river is narrow, and +probably very deep; but during this distance it is somewhat open, with +grassy bottoms on the left. Entering, then, among the lower mountains +of the Cascade range, it assumes a general character, and high and +steep rocky hills shut it in on either side, rising abruptly in places, +to the height of fifteen hundred feet above the water, and gradually +acquiring a more mountainous character as the river approaches the +Cascades. + +After an hour's travel, when the sun was nearly down, we searched along +the shore for a pleasant place, and halted to prepare supper. We had +been well supplied by our friends at the mission with delicious salted +salmon, which had been taken at the fattest season; also, with +potatoes, bread, coffee, and sugar. We were delighted at a change in +our mode of traveling and living. The canoe sailed smoothly down the +river; at night we encamped upon the shore, and a plentiful supply of +comfortable provisions supplied the first of wants. We enjoyed the +contrast which it presented to our late toilsome marchings, our night +watchings, and our frequent privation of food. We were a motley group, +but all happy: three unknown Indians; Jacob, a colored man; Mr. Preuss, +a German; Bernier, creole French; and myself. + +Being now upon the ground explored by the South Sea expedition under +Captain Wilkes, and having accomplished the object of uniting my survey +with his, and thus presenting a connected exploration from the +Mississippi to the Pacific, and the winter being at hand, I deemed it +necessary to economize time by voyaging in the night, as is customary +here, to avoid the high winds, which rise with the morning, and decline +with the day. + +Accordingly, after an hour's halt, we again embarked, and resumed our +pleasant voyage down the river. The wind rose to a gale after several +hours; but the moon was very bright, and the wind was fair, and the +canoe glanced rapidly down the stream, the waves breaking into foam +alongside; and our night voyage, as the wind bore us rapidly along +between the dark mountains, was wild and interesting. About midnight we +put to the shore on a rocky beach, behind which was a dark looking pine +forest. We built up large fires among the rocks, which were in large +masses round about; and, arranging our blankets on the most sheltered +places we could find, passed a delightful night. + +After an early breakfast, at daylight we resumed our journey, the +weather being clear and beautiful, and the river smooth and still. On +either side the mountains are all pine-timbered, rocky, and high. We +were now approaching one of the marked features of the lower Columbia +where the river forms a great _cascade_, with a series of rapids, in +breaking through the range of mountains to which the lofty peaks of +Mount Hood and St. Helens belong, and which rise as great pillars of +snow on either side of the passage. The main branch of the _Sacramento_ +river, and the _Tlamath_, issue in cascades from this range; and the +Columbia, breaking through it in a succession of cascades, gives the +idea of cascades to the whole range; and hence the name of CASCADE +RANGE, which it bears, and distinguishes it from the Coast Range lower +down. In making a short turn to the south, the river forms the cascades +in breaking over a point of agglomerated masses of rock, leaving a +handsome bay to the right, with several rocky, pine-covered islands, +and the mountains sweep at a distance around a cove where several small +streams enter the bay. In less than an hour we halted on the left bank, +about five minutes' walk above the cascades, where there were several +Indian huts, and where our guides signified it was customary to hire +Indians to assist in making the _portage_. When traveling with a boat +as light as a canoe, which may easily be carried on the shoulders of +the Indians, this is much the better side of the river for the portage, +as the ground here is very good and level, being a handsome bottom, +which I remarked was covered (_as was now always the case along the +river_) with a growth of green and fresh-looking grass. It was long +before we could come to an understanding with the Indians; but to +length, when they had first received the price of their assistance in +goods, they went vigorously to work; and, in a shorter time than had +been occupied in making our arrangements, the canoe, instruments, and +baggage, were carried through (a distance of about half a mile) to the +bank below the main cascade, where we again embarked, the water being +white with foam among ugly rocks, and boiling into a thousand +whirlpools. The boat passed with great rapidity, crossing and +recrossing in the eddies of the current. After passing through about +two miles of broken water, we ran some wild-looking rapids, which are +called the Lower Rapids, being the last on the river, which below is +tranquil and smooth--a broad, magnificent stream. On a low broad point +on the right bank of the river, at the lower end of these rapids, were +pitched many tents of the emigrants, who were waiting here for their +friends from above, or for boats and provisions which were expected +from Vancouver. In our passage down the rapids, I had noticed their +camps along the shore, or transporting their goods across the portage. +This portage makes a head of navigation, ascending the river. It is +about two miles in length; and above, to the Dalles, is 45 miles of +smooth and good navigation. + +We glided on without further interruption between very rocky and high +steep mountains, which sweep along the river valley at a little +distance, covered with forests of pine, and showing occasionally lofty +escarpments of red rock. Nearer, the shore is bordered by steep +escarped hills end huge vertical rocks, from which the waters of the +mountain reach the river in a variety of beautiful falls, sometimes +several hundred feet in height. Occasionally along the river occurred +pretty bottoms, covered with the greenest verdure of the spring. To a +professional farmer, however, it does not offer many places of +sufficient extent to be valuable for agriculture; and after passing a +few miles below the Dalles, I had scarcely seen a place on the south +shore where wagons could get to the river. The beauty of the scenery +was heightened by the continuance of very delightful weather, +resembling the Indian summer of the Atlantic. A few miles below the +cascades we passed a singular isolated hill; and in the course of the +next six miles occurred five very pretty falls from the heights on the +left bank, one of them being of a very picturesque character; and +towards sunset we reached a remarkable point of rocks, distinguished, +on account of prevailing high winds, and the delay it frequently +occasions to the canoe navigation, by the name of _Cape Horn_. It +borders the river in a high wall of rock, which comes boldly down into +deep water; and in violent gales down the river, and from the opposite +shore, which is the prevailing direction of strong winds, the water is +dashed against it with considerable violence. It appears to form a +serious obstacle to canoe traveling; and I was informed by Mr. Perkins, +that in a voyage up the river he had been detained two weeks at this +place, and was finally obliged to return to Vancouver. + +The winds of this region deserve a particular study. They blow in +currents, which show them to be governed by fixed laws; and it is a +problem how far they may come from the mountains, or from the ocean +through the breaks in the mountains which let out the river. + +The hills here had lost something of their rocky appearance, and had +already begun to decline. As the sun went down, we searched along the +river for an inviting spot; and, finding a clean rocky beach, where +some large dry trees were lying on the ground, we ran our boat to the +shore; and, after another comfortable supper, ploughed our way along +the river in darkness. Heavy clouds covered the sky this evening, and +the wind began to sweep in gusts among the trees, as if bad weather +were coming. As we advanced, the hills on both sides grew constantly +lower; on the right, retreating from the shore, and forming a somewhat +extensive bottom of intermingled prairie and wooded land. In the course +of a few hours, and opposite to a small stream corning in from the +north, called the _Tea Prairie_ river, the highlands on the left +declined to the plains, and three or four miles more disappeared +entirely on both sides, and the river entered the low country. The +river had gradually expanded; and when we emerged from the highlands, +the opposite shores were so distant as to appear indistinct in the +uncertainty of the light. About ten o'clock our pilots halted, +apparently to confer about the course; and, after a little hesitation, +pulled directly across an open expansion of the river, where the waves +were somewhat rough for a canoe, the wind blowing very fresh. Much to +our surprise, a few minutes afterwards we ran aground. Backing off our +boat, we made repeated trials at various places to cross what appeared +to be a point of shifting sand-bars, where we had attempted to shorten +the way by a cut-off. Finally, one of our Indians got into the water, +and waded about until he found a channel sufficiently deep, through +which we wound along after him, and in a few minutes again entered the +deep water below. As we paddled rapidly down the river, we heard the +noise of a saw-mill at work on the right bank; and, letting our boat +float quietly down, we listened with pleasure to the unusual sounds, +and before midnight, encamped on the bank of the river, about a mile +above Fort Vancouver. Our fine dry weather had given place to a dark +cloudy night. At midnight it began to rain; and we found ourselves +suddenly in the gloomy and humid season, which, in the narrow region +lying between the Pacific and the Cascade mountains, and for a +considerable distance along the coast, supplies the place of winter. + +In the morning, the first object that attracted my attention was the +barque Columbia, lying at anchor near the landing. She was about to +start on a voyage to England, and was now ready for sea; being detained +only in waiting the arrival of the express bateaux, which descend the +Columbia and its north fork with the overland mail from Canada and +Hudson's Bay, which had been delayed beyond the usual time. I +immediately waited upon Dr. McLaughlin, the executive officer of the +Hudson Bay Company, in the territory west of the Rocky mountains, who +received me with the courtesy and hospitality for which he has been +eminently distinguished, and which makes a forcible and delightful +impression on a traveler from the long wilderness from which we had +issued. I was immediately supplied by him with the necessary stores and +provisions to refit and support my party in our contemplated winter +journey to the States; and also with a Mackinaw boat and canoes, manned +with Canadian and Iroquois voyageurs and Indians, for their +transportation to the Dalles of the Columbia. In addition to this +efficient kindness in furnishing me with these necessary supplies, I +received from him a warm and gratifying sympathy in the suffering which +his great experience led him to anticipate for us in our homeward +journey, and a letter of recommendation and credit for any officers of +the Hudson Bay Company into whose posts we might be driven by +unexpected misfortune. + +Of course, the future supplies for my party were paid for, bills on the +Government of the United States being readily taken; but every +hospitable attention was extended to me, and I accepted an invitation +to take a room in the fort, "_and to make myself at home while I +stayed_." + +I found many American emigrants at the fort; others had already crossed +the river into their land of promise--the Walahmette valley. Others +were daily arriving; and all of them have been furnished with shelter, +so far as it could be afforded by the buildings connected with the +establishment. Necessary clothing and provisions (the latter to be +returned in kind from the produce of their labor) were also furnished. +This friendly assistance was of very great value to the emigrants, +whose families were otherwise exposed to much suffering in the winter +rains, which had now commenced; at the same time they were in want of +all the common necessaries of life. Those who had taken a water +conveyance at the Nez Perce fort continued to arrive safely, with no +other accident than has been already mentioned. The party which had +crossed over the Cascade mountains were reported to have lost a number +of their animals; and those who had driven their stock down the +Columbia had brought them safely in, and found for them a ready and +very profitable market, and were already proposing to return to the +States in the spring for another supply. In the space of two days our +preparations had been completed, and we were ready to set out on our +return. It would have been very gratifying to have gone down to the +Pacific, and, solely in the interest and love of geography, to have +seen the ocean on the western as well as on the eastern side of the +continent, so as to give a satisfactory completeness to the +geographical picture which had been formed in our minds; but the rainy +season had now regularly set in, and the air was filled with fogs and +rain, which left no beauty in any scenery, and obstructed observations. +The object of my instructions had been entirely fulfilled in having +connected our reconnoissance with the surveys of Captain Wilkes; and +although it would have been agreeable and satisfactory to terminate +here also our ruder astronomical observations, I was not, for such a +reason, justified to make a delay in waiting for favorable weather. + +Near sunset of the 10th, the boats left the fort, and encamped after +making only a few miles. Our flotilla consisted of a Mackinaw barge and +three canoes--one of them that in which we had descended the river; and +a party in all of twenty men. One of the emigrants, Mr. Burnet, of +Missouri, who had left his family and property at the Dalles, availed +himself of the opportunity afforded by the return of our boats to bring +them down to Vancouver. This gentleman, as well as the Messrs. +Applegate, and others of the emigrants whom I saw, possessed +intelligence and character, with the moral and intellectual stamina, as +well as the enterprise, which give solidity and respectability to the +foundation of colonies. + +11th.--The morning was rainy and misty. We did not move with the +practised celerity of my own camp; and it was nearly nine o'clock when +our motley crew had finished their breakfast and were ready to start. +Once afloat, however, they worked steadily and well, and we advanced at +a good rate up the river; and in the afternoon a breeze sprung up, +which enabled us to add a sail to the oars. At evening we encamped on a +warm-looking beach, on the right bank, at the foot of the high +river-hill, immediately at the lower end of Cape Horn. On the opposite +shore is said to be a singular hole in the mountain, from which the +Indians believe comes the wind producing these gales. It is called the +Devil's hole; and the Indians, I was told, had been resolving to send +down one of their slaves to explore the region below. At dark, the wind +shifted into its stormy quarter, gradually increasing to a gale from +the southwest; and the sky becoming clear, I obtained a good +observation of an emersion of the first satellite; the result of which +being an absolute observation, I have adopted for the longitude of the +place. + +12th.--The wind during the night had increased to so much violence that +the broad river this morning was angry and white; the waves breaking +with considerable force against this rocky wall of the cape. Our old +Iroquois pilot was unwilling to risk the boats around the point, and I +was not disposed to hazard the stores of our voyage for the delay of a +day. Further observations were obtained during the day, giving for the +latitude of the place 45° 33' 09"; and the longitude obtained from the +satellite is 122° 6' 15". + +13th.--We had a day of disagreeable and cold rain and, late in the +afternoon, began to approach the rapids of the cascades. There is here +a high timbered island on the left shore, below which, in descending, I +had remarked, in a bluff of the river, the extremities of trunks of +trees, appearing to be imbedded in the rock. Landing here this +afternoon, I found, in the lower part of the escarpment, a stratum of +coal and forest-trees, imbedded between strata of altered clay, +containing the remains of vegetables, the leaves of which indicate that +the plants wore dicotyledonous. Among these, the stems of some of the +ferns are not mineralized, but merely charred, retaining still their +vegetable structure and substance; and in this condition a portion of +the trees remain. The indurated appearance and compactness of the +strata, as well, perhaps, as the mineralized condition of the coal, are +probably due to igneous action. Some portions of the coal precisely +resemble in aspect the canal coal of England, and, with the +accompanying fossils, have been referred to the tertiary formation. + +These strata appear to rest upon a mass of agglomerated rock, being but +a few feet above the water of the river; and over them is the +escarpment of perhaps 80 feet, rising gradually in the rear towards the +mountains. The wet and cold evening, and near approach of night, +prevented me from making any other than a slight examination. + +The current was now very swift, and we were obliged to _cordelle_ the +boat along the left shore, where the bank was covered with large masses +of rocks. Night overtook us at the upper end of the island, a short +distance below the cascades, and we halted on the open point. In the +mean time, the lighter canoes, paddled altogether by Indians, had +passed ahead, and were out of sight. With them was the lodge, which was +the only shelter we had, with most of the bedding and provisions. We +shouted, and fired guns; but all to no purpose, as it was impossible +for them to hear above the roar of the river; and we remained all night +without shelter, the rain pouring down all the time. The old voyageurs +did not appear to mind it much, but covered themselves up as well as +they could, and lay down on the sand-beach, where they remained quiet +until morning. The rest of us spent a rather miserable night; and, to +add to our discomfort, the incessant rain extinguished our fires; and +we were glad when at last daylight appeared, and we again embarked. + +Crossing to the right bank, we _cordelled_ the boat along the shore, +there being no longer any use of the paddles, and put into a little bay +below the upper rapids. Here we found a lodge pitched, and about 20 +Indians sitting around a blazing fire within, making a luxurious +breakfast with salmon, bread, butter, sugar, coffee, and other +provisions. In the forest, on the edge of the high bluff overlooking +the river, is an Indian graveyard, consisting of a collection of tombs, +in each of which were the scattered bones of many skeletons. The tombs +were made of boards, which were ornamented with many figures of men and +animals of the natural size--from their appearance, constituting the +armorial device by which, among Indians, the chiefs are usually known. + +The masses of rock displayed along the shores of the ravine in the +neighborhood of the cascades, are clearly volcanic products. Between +this cove, which I called Graveyard bay, and another spot of smooth +water above, on the right, called Luders bay, sheltered by a jutting +point of huge rocky masses at the foot of the cascades, the shore along +the intervening rapids is lined with precipices of distinct strata of +red and variously-colored lavas, in inclined positions. + +The masses of rock forming the point at Luders bay consist of a porous +trap, or basalt--a volcanic product of a modern period. The rocks +belong to agglomerated masses, which form the immediate ground of the +cascades, and have been already mentioned as constituting a bed of +cemented conglomerate rocks, appearing at various places along the +river. Here they are scattered along the shores, and through the bed of +the river, wearing the character of convulsion, which forms the +impressive and prominent feature of the river at this place. + +Wherever we came in contact with the rocks of these mountains, we found +them volcanic, which is probably the character of the range; and at +this time, two of the great snowy cones, Mount Regnier and St. Helens, +were in action. On the 23d of the preceding November, St. Helens had +scattered its ashes, like a white fall of snow, over the Dalles of the +Columbia, 50 miles distant. A specimen of these ashes was given to me +by Mr. Brewer, one of the clergymen at the Dalles. + +The lofty range of the Cascade mountains forms a distinct boundary +between the opposite climates of the regions along its western and +eastern bases. On the west, they present a barrier to the clouds of fog +and rain which roll up from the Pacific ocean and beat against their +rugged sides, forming the rainy season of the winter in the country +along the coast. Into the brighter skies of the region along their +eastern base, this rainy winter never penetrates; and at the Dalles of +the Columbia the rainy season is unknown, the brief winter being +limited to a period of about two months, during which the earth is +covered with the slight snows of a climate remarkably mild for so high +a latitude. The Cascade range has an average distance of about 130 +miles from the sea-coast. It extends far both north and south of the +Columbia, and is indicated to the distant observer, both in course and +position, by the lofty volcanic peaks which rise out of it, and which +are visible to an immense distance. + +During several days of constant rain, it kept our whole force +laboriously employed in getting our barge and canoes to the upper end +of the Cascades. The portage ground was occupied by emigrant families; +their thin and insufficient clothing, bareheaded and barefooted +children, attesting the length of their journey, and showing that they +had, in many instances, set out without a due preparation of what was +indispensable. + +A gentleman named Luders, a botanist from the city of Hamburg, arrived +at the bay I have called by his name while we were occupied in bringing +up the boats. I was delighted to meet at such a place a man of kindred +pursuits; but we had only the pleasure of a brief conversation, as his +canoe, under the guidance of two Indians, was about to run the rapids; +and I could not enjoy the satisfaction of regaling him with a +breakfast, which, after his recent journey, would have been an +extraordinary luxury. All of his few instruments and baggage were in +the canoe, and he hurried around by land to meet it at the Graveyard +bay; but he was scarcely out of sight, when, by the carelessness of the +Indians, the boat was drawn into the midst of the rapids, and glanced +down the river, bottom up, with a loss of every thing it contained. In +the natural concern I felt for his misfortune, I gave to the little +cove the name of Luders bay. + +15th.--We continued to-day our work at the portage. + +About noon, the two barges of the express from Montreal arrived at the +upper portage landing, which, for large boats, is on the right bank of +the river. They were a fine-looking crew, and among them I remarked a +fresh-looking woman and her daughter, emigrants from Canada. It was +satisfactory to see the order and speed with which these experienced +water-men effected the portage, and passed their boats over the +cascades. They had arrived at noon, and in the evening they expected to +reach Vancouver. These bateaux carry the express of the Hudson Bay +Company to the highest navigable point of the North Fork of the +Columbia, whence it is carried by an overland party to Lake Winipec, +where it is divided; part going to Montreal, and part to Hudson Bay. +Thus a regular communication is kept up between three very remote +points. + +The Canadian emigrants were much chagrined at the change of climate, +and informed me that, only a few miles above, they had left a country +of bright blue sky and a shining sun. The next morning the upper parts +of the mountains which directly overlook the cascades, were white with +the freshly fallen snow, while it continued to rain steadily below. + +Late in the afternoon we finished the portage, and, embarking again, +moved a little distance up the right bank, in order to clear the +smaller rapids of the cascades, and have a smooth river for the next +morning. Though we made but a few miles, the weather improved +immediately; and though the rainy country and the cloudy mountains were +close behind, before us was the bright sky; so distinctly is climate +here marked by a mountain boundary. + +17th.--We had to-day an opportunity to complete the sketch of that +portion of the river down which we had come by night. + +Many places occur along the river, where the stumps, or rather portions +of the trunks of pine-trees, are standing along the shore, and in the +water, where they may be seen at a considerable depth below the +surface, in the beautifully clear water. These collections of dead +trees are called on the Columbia the _submerged forest_, and are +supposed to have been created by the effects of some convulsion which +formed the cascades, and which, by damming up the river, placed these +trees under water and destroyed them. But I venture to presume that the +cascades are older than the trees; and as these submerged forests occur +at five or six places along the river, I had an opportunity to satisfy +myself that they have been formed by immense landslides from the +mountains, which here closely shut in the river, and which brought down +with them into the river the pines of the mountain. At one place, on +the right bank, I remarked a place where a portion of one of these +slides seemed to have planted itself, with all the evergreen foliage, +and the vegetation of the neighboring hill, directly amidst the falling +and yellow leaves of the river trees. It occurred to me that this would +have been a beautiful illustration to the eye of a botanist. + +Following the course of a slide, which was very plainly marked along +the mountain, I found that in the interior parts the trees were in +their usual erect position; but at the extremity of the slide they were +rocked about, and thrown into a confusion of inclinations. + +About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we passed a sandy bar in the river, +whence we had an unexpected view of Mount Hood, bearing directly south +by compass. + +During the day we used oar and sail, and at night had again a +delightful camping ground, and a dry place to sleep upon. + +18th.--The day again was pleasant and bright. At 10 o'clock we passed a +rock island, on the right shore of the river, which the Indians use as +a burial ground; and halting for a short time, about an hour +afterwards, at the village of our Indian friends, early in the +afternoon we arrived again at the Dalles. + +Carson had removed the camp up the river a little nearer to the hills, +where the animals had better grass. We found every thing in good order, +and arrived just in time to partake of an excellent roast of California +beef. My friend, Mr. Gilpin, had arrived in advance of the party. His +object in visiting this country had been to obtain correct information +of the Walahmette settlements; and he had reached this point in his +journey, highly pleased with the country over which he had traveled, +and with invigorated health. On the following day he continued his +journey, in our returning boats, to Vancouver. + +The camp was now occupied in making the necessary preparations for our +homeward journey, which, though homeward, contemplated a new route, and +a great circuit to the south and southeast, and the exploration of the +Great Basin between the Rocky mountains and the _Sierra Nevada_. Three +principal objects were indicated, by report or by maps, as being on +this route; the character or existence of which I wished to ascertain +and which I assumed as landmarks, or leading points, on their projected +line of return. The first of those points was the _Tlamath_ lake, on +the table-land between the head of Fall river, which comes to the +Columbia, and the Sacramento, which goes to the Bay of San Francisco; +and from which lake a river of the same name makes its way westwardly +direct to the ocean. This lake and river are often called _Klamet_, but +I have chosen to write its name according to the Indian pronunciation. +The position of this lake, on the line of inland communication between +Oregon and California; its proximity to the demarcation boundary of +latitude 42°; its imputed double character of lake, or meadow, +according to the season of the year; and the hostile and warlike +character attributed to the Indians about it--all made it a desirable +object to visit and examine. From this lake our course was intended to +be about southeast, to a reported lake called Mary's, at some days' +journey in the Great Basin; and thence, still on southeast, to the +reputed _Buenaventura_ river, which has had a place in so many maps, +and countenanced the belief of the existence of a great river flowing +from the Rocky mountains to the Bay of San Francisco. From the +Buenaventura the next point was intended to be in that section of the +Rocky mountains which includes the heads of Arkansas river, and of the +opposite waters of the Californian gulf; and thence down the Arkansas +to Bent's fort, and home. This was our projected line of return--a +great part of it absolutely new to geographical, botanical, and +geological science--and the subject of reports in relation to lakes, +rivers, deserts, and savages hardly above the condition of mere wild +animals, which inflamed desire to know what this _terra incognita_ +really contained. + +It was a serious enterprise, at the commencement of winter, to +undertake the traverse of such a region, and with a party consisting +only of twenty-five persons, and they of many nations--American, +French, German, Canadian, Indian, and colored--and most of those young, +several being under twenty-one years of age. All knew that a strange +country was to be explored, and dangers and hardships to be +encountered; but no one blenched at the prospect. On the contrary, +courage and confidence animated the whole party. Cheerfulness, +readiness, subordination, prompt obedience, characterized all; nor did +any extremity of peril and privation, to which we were afterwards +exposed, ever belie, or derogate from, the fine spirit of this brave +and generous commencement. The course of the narrative will show at +what point, and for what reasons, we were prevented from the complete +execution of this plan, after having made considerable progress upon +it, and how we were forced by desert plains and mountain ranges, and +deep snows, far to the south, and near to the Pacific ocean, and along +the western base of the Sierra Nevada, where, indeed, a new and ample +field of exploration opened itself before us. For the present, we must +follow the narrative, which will first lead us south along the valley +of Fall river, and the eastern base of the Cascade range, to the +Tlamath lake, from which, or its margin, three rivers go in three +directions--one west, to the ocean; another north, to the Columbia; the +third south, to California. + +For the support of the party, I had provided at Vancouver a supply of +provisions for not less than three months, consisting principally of +flour, peas, and tallow--the latter being used in cooking; and, in +addition to this, I had purchased at the mission some California +cattle, which were to be driven on the hoof. We had 104 mules and +horses--part of the latter procured from the Indians about the mission; +and for the sustenance of which, our reliance was upon the grass which +we should find, and the soft porous wood which was to be substituted +when there was none. + +Mr. Fitzpatrick, with Mr. Talbot and the remainder of the party, +arrived on the 21st; and the camp was now closely engaged in the labor +of preparation. Mr. Perkins succeeded in obtaining as a guide to the +Tlamath lake two Indians--one of whom had been there, and bore the +marks of several wounds he had received from some of the Indians in the +neighborhood; and the other went along for company. In order to enable +us to obtain horses, he dispatched messengers to the various Indian +villages in the neighborhood, informing them that we were desirous to +purchase, and appointing a day for them to bring them in. + +We made, in the mean time, several excursions in the vicinity. Mr. +Perkins walked with Mr. Preuss and myself to the heights, about nine +miles distant, on the opposite side of the river, whence, in fine +weather, an extensive view may be had over the mountains, including +seven great peaks of the Cascade range; but clouds, on this occasion, +destroyed the anticipated pleasure, and we obtained bearings only to +three that were visible--Mount Regnier, St. Helens, and Mount Hood. On +the heights, about one mile south of the mission, a very fine view may +be had of Mount Hood and St. Helens. In order to determine their +position with as much accuracy as possible, the angular distances of +the peaks were measured with the sextant, at different fixed points +from which they could be seen. + +The Indians brought in their horses at the appointed time, and we +succeeded in obtaining a number in exchange for goods; but they were +relatively much higher here, where goods are plenty and at moderate +prices, than we had found them in the more eastern part of our voyage. +Several of the Indians inquired very anxiously to know if we had any +_dollars_; and the horses we procured were much fewer in number than I +had desired, and of thin, inferior quality; the oldest and poorest +being those that were sold to us. These horses, as ever in our journey +you will have occasion to remark, are valuable for hardihood and great +endurance. + +24th.--At this place one of the men was discharged; and at the request +of Mr. Perkins, a Chinook Indian, a lad of nineteen, who was extremely +desirous to "see the whites," and make some acquaintance with our +institutions, was received into the party under my special charge, with +the understanding that I would again return him to his friends. He had +lived for some time in the household of Mr. Perkins, and spoke a few +words of the English language. + +25th.--We were all up early, in the excitement of turning towards home. +The stars were brilliant, and the morning cold, the thermometer at +daylight 26°. + +Our preparations had been fully completed, and to-day we commenced our +journey. The little wagon which had hitherto carried the instruments, I +judged it necessary to abandon; and it was accordingly presented to the +mission. In all our long traveling, it had never been overturned or +injured by any accident of the road; and the only things broken were +the glass lamps, and one of the front panels, which had been kicked out +by an unruly Indian horse. The howitzer was the only wheeled carriage +now remaining. We started about noon, when the weather had become +disagreeably cold, with flurries of snow. Our friend Mr. Perkins, whose +kindness had been active and efficient during our stay, accompanied us +several miles on our road, when he bade us farewell, and consigned us +to the care of our guides. Ascending to the uplands beyond the southern +fork of the _Tinanens_ creek, we found the snow lying on the ground in +frequent patches, although the pasture appeared good, and the new short +grass was fresh and green. We traveled over high, hilly land, and +encamped on a little branch of Tinanens creek, where there were good +grass and timber. The southern bank was covered with snow, which was +scattered over the bottom; and the little creek, its borders lined with +ice, had a chilly and wintry look. A number of Indians had accompanied +us so far on our road, and remained with us during the night. Two +bad-looking fellows, who were detected in stealing, were tied and laid +before the fire, and guard mounted over them during the night. The +night was cold, and partially clear. + +26th.--The morning was cloudy and misty, and but a few stars visible. +During the night water froze in the tents, and at sunrise the +thermometer was at 20°. Left camp at 10 o'clock, the road leading along +tributaries of the Tinanens, and being, so far, very good. We turned to +the right at the fork of the trail, ascending by a steep ascent along a +spur to the dividing grounds between this stream and the waters of Fall +river. The creeks we had passed were timbered principally with oak and +other deciduous trees. Snow lies everywhere here on the ground, and we +had a slight fall during the morning; but towards noon the bright sky +yielded to a bright sun. + +This morning we had a grand view of St. Helens and Regnier: the latter +appeared of a conical form, and very lofty, leading the eye far up into +the sky. The line of the timbered country is very distinctly marked +here, the bare hills making with it a remarkable contrast. The summit +of the ridge commanded a fine view of the Taih prairie, and the stream +running through it, which is a tributary to the Fall river, the chasm +of which is visible to the right. A steep descent of a mountain hill +brought us down into the valley, and we encamped on the stream after +dark, guided by the light of fires, which some naked Indians, belonging +to a village on the opposite side, were kindling for us on the bank. +This is a large branch of the Fall river. There was a broad band of +thick ice some fifteen feet wide on either bank, and the river current +is swift and bold. The night was cold and clear, and we made our +astronomical observation this evening with the thermometer at 20°. + +In anticipation of coming hardship, and to spare our horses, there was +much walking done to-day; and Mr. Fitzpatrick and myself made the day's +journey on foot. Somewhere near the mouth of this stream are the falls +from which the river takes its name. + +27th.--A fine view of Mount Hood this morning; a rose-colored mass of +snow, bearing S. 85° W. by compass. The sky is clear, and the air cold; +the thermometer 2.5° below zero, the trees and bushes glittering white, +and the rapid stream filled with floating ice. + +_Stiletsi_ and _the White Crane_, two Indian chiefs who had accompanied +us thus far, took their leave, and we resumed our journey at 10 +o'clock. We ascended by a steep hill from the river bottom, which is +sandy, to a volcanic plain, around which lofty hills sweep in a regular +form. It is cut up by gullies of basaltic rock, escarpments of which +appear everywhere in the hills. This plain is called the Taih prairie, +and is sprinkled with some scattered pines. The country is now far more +interesting to a traveler than the route along the Snake and Columbia +rivers. To our right we had always the mountains, from the midst of +whose dark pine forests the isolated snowy peaks were looking out like +giants. They served us for grand beacons to show the rate at which we +advanced in our journey. Mount Hood was already becoming an old +acquaintance, and, when we ascended the prairie, we obtained a bearing +to Mount Jefferson, S. 23° W. The Indian superstition has peopled these +lofty peaks with evil spirits, and they have never yet known the tread +of a human foot. Sternly drawn against the sky, they look so high and +steep, so snowy and rocky, that it appears almost impossible to climb +them; but still a trial would have its attractions for the adventurous +traveler. A small trail takes off through the prairie, towards a low +point in the range, and perhaps there is here a pass into the +Wahlamette valley. Crossing the plain, we descended by a rocky hill +into the bed of a tributary of Fall river, and made an early +encampment. The water was in holes, and frozen over; and we were +obliged to cut through the ice for the animals to drink. An ox, which +was rather troublesome to drive, was killed here for food. + +The evening was fine, the sky being very clear, and I obtained an +immersion of the third satellite, with a good observation of an +emersion of the first; the latter of which gives for the longitude, +121° 02' 43"; the latitude, by observation, being 45° 06' 45". The +night was cold--the thermometer during the observations standing at 9°. + +28th.--The sky was clear in the morning, but suddenly clouded over, and +at sunrise it began to snow, with the thermometer at 18°. + +We traversed a broken high country, partly timbered with pine, and +about noon crossed a mountainous ridge, in which, from the rock +occasionally displayed, the formation consists of compact lava. +Frequent tracks of elk were visible in the snow. On our right, in the +afternoon, a high plain, partially covered with pine, extended about +ten miles, to the foot of the Cascade mountains. + +At evening we encamped in a basin narrowly surrounded by rocky hills, +after a day's journey of twenty-one miles. The surrounding rocks are +either volcanic products, or highly altered by volcanic action, +consisting of quartz and reddish-colored silicious masses. + +29th.--We emerged from the basin, by a narrow pass, upon a considerable +branch of Fall river, running to the eastward through a narrow valley. +The trail, descending this stream, brought us to a locality of hot +springs, which were on either bank. Those on the left, which were +formed into deep handsome basins, would have been delightful baths, if +the outer air had not been so keen, the thermometer in these being at +89°. There were others on the opposite side, at the foot of an +escarpment, in which the temperature of the water was 134°. These +waters deposited around the spring a brecciated mass of quartz and +feldspar, much of it of a reddish color. + +We crossed the stream here, and ascended again to a high plain, from an +elevated point of which we obtained a view of six of the great +peaks--Mount Jefferson, followed to the southward by two others of the +same class; and succeeding, at a still greater distance to the +southward, were three other lower peaks, clustering together in a +branch ridge. These, like the great peaks, were snowy masses, secondary +only to them; and, from the best examination our time permitted, we are +inclined to believe that the range to which they belong is a branch +from the great chain which here bears to the westward. The trail, +during the remainder of the day, followed near to the large stream on +the left, which was continuously walled in between high rocky banks. We +halted for the night on a little by-stream. + +30th.--Our journey to-day was short. Passing over a high plain, on +which were scattered cedars, with frequent beds of volcanic rock in +fragments interspersed among the grassy grounds, we arrived suddenly on +the verge of the steep and rocky descent to the valley of the stream we +had been following, and which here ran directly across our path, +emerging from the mountains on the right. You will remark that the +country is abundantly watered with large streams, which pour down from +the neighboring range. + +These streams are characterized by the narrow and chasm-like valleys in +which they run, generally sunk a thousand feet below the plain. At the +verge of this plain, they frequently commence in vertical precipices of +basaltic rock, and which leave only casual places at which they can be +entered by horses. The road across the country, which would otherwise +be very good, is rendered impracticable for wagons by these streams. +There is another trail among the mountains, usually followed in the +summer, which the snows now compelled us to avoid; and I have reason to +believe that this, passing nearer the heads of these streams, would +afford a much better road. + +At such places, the gun-carriage was unlimbered, and separately +descended by hand. Continuing a few miles up the left bank of the +river, we encamped early in an open bottom among the pines, a short +distance below a lodge of Indians. Here, along the river the bluffs +present escarpments seven or eight hundred feet in height, containing +strata of a very fine porcelain clay, overlaid, at the height of about +five hundred feet, by a massive stratum of compact basalt one hundred +feet in thickness, which again is succeeded above by other strata of +volcanic rocks. The clay strata are variously colored, some of them +very nearly as white as chalk, and very fine-grained. Specimens brought +from these have been subjected to microscopical examination by +Professor Bailey, of West Point, and are considered by him to +constitute one of the most remarkable deposites of fluviatile infusoria +on record. While they abound in genera and species which are common in +fresh water, but which rarely thrive where the water is even brackish, +not one decidedly marine form is to be found among them; and their +fresh-water origin is therefore beyond a doubt. It is equally certain +that they lived and died at the situation where they were found, as +they could scarcely have been transported by running waters without an +admixture of sandy particles; from which, however, they are remarkably +free. Fossil infusoria of a fresh-water origin had been previously +detected by Mr. Bailey, in specimens brought by Mr. James D. Dana from +the tertiary formation of Oregon. Most of the species in those +specimens differed so much from those now living and known, that he was +led to infer that they might belong to extinct species, and considered +them also as affording proof of an alteration, in the formation from +which they were obtained, of fresh and salt-water deposites, which, +common enough in Europe, had not hitherto been noticed in the United +States. Coming evidently from a locality entirely different, our +specimens show very few species in common with those brought by Mr. +Dana, but bear a much closer resemblance to those inhabiting the +northeastern states. It is possible that they are from a more recent +deposite; but the presence of a few remarkable forms which are common +to the two localities renders it more probable that there is no great +difference in their age. + +I obtained here a good observation of an emersion of the second +satellite; but clouds, which rapidly overspread the sky, prevented the +usual number of observations. Those which we succeeded in obtaining, +are, however, good; and give for the latitude of the place 44° 35' 23", +and for the longitude from the satellite 121° 10' 25". + + + +DECEMBER. + + +1st.--A short distance above our encampment, we crossed the river, +which was thickly lined along its banks with ice. In common with all +these mountain-streams the water was very clear and the current swift. +It was not everywhere fordable, and the water was three or four feet +deep at our crossing, and perhaps a hundred feet wide. As was +frequently the case at such places, one of the mules got his pack, +consisting of sugar, thoroughly wet, and turned into molasses. One of +the guides informed me that this was a "salmon-water," and pointed out +several ingeniously-contrived places to catch the fish; among the pines +in the bottom I saw an immense one, about twelve feet in diameter. A +steep ascent from the opposite bank delayed us again; and as, by the +information of our guides, grass would soon become very scarce, we +encamped on the height of land, in a marshy place among the pines, +where there was an abundance of grass. We found here a single Nez Perce +family, who had a very handsome horse in their drove, which we +endeavored to obtain in exchange for a good cow; but the man "had two +hearts," or, rather, he had one and his wife had another: she wanted +the cow, but he loved the horse too much to part with it. These people +attach great value to cattle, with which they are endeavoring to supply +themselves. + +2d.--In the first rays of the sun, the mountain peaks this morning +presented a beautiful appearance, the snow being entirely covered with +a hue of rosy gold. We traveled to-day over a very stony, elevated +plain, about which were scattered cedar and pine, and encamped on +another branch of Fall river. We were gradually ascending to a more +elevated region, which would have been indicated by the rapidly +increasing quantities of snow and ice, had we not known it by other +means. A mule, which was packed with our cooking-utensils, wandered off +among the pines unperceived, and several men were sent back to search +for it. + +3d.--Leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick with the party, I went ahead with the +howitzer and a few men, in order to gain time, as our progress with the +gun was necessarily slower. The country continued the same--very stony, +with cedar and pine; and we rode on until dark, when we encamped on a +hill-side covered with snow, which we used to-night for water, as we +were unable to reach any stream. + +4th.--Our animals had taken the back track, although a great number +were hobbled; and we were consequently delayed until noon. Shortly +after we had left this encampment, the mountain trail from the Dalles +joined that on which we were traveling. After passing for several miles +over an artemisia plain, the trail entered a beautiful pine forest, +through which we traveled for several hours; and about 4 o'clock +descended into the valley of another large branch, on the bottom of +which were spaces of open pines, with occasional meadows of good grass, +in one of which we encamped. The stream is very swift and deep, and +about 40 feet wide, and nearly half frozen over. Among the timber here, +are larches 140 feet high, and over three feet in diameter. We had +to-night the rare sight of a lunar rainbow. + +5th.--To-day the country was all pine forest, and beautiful weather +made our journey delightful. It was too warm at noon for winter +clothes; and the snow, which lay everywhere in patches through the +forest, was melting rapidly. After a few hours' ride, we came upon a +fine stream in the midst of the forest, which proved to be the +principal branch of the Fall river. It was occasionally 200 feet +wide--sometimes narrowed to 50 feet--the waters very clear, and +frequently deep. We ascended along the river, which sometimes presented +sheets of foaming cascades--its banks occasionally blackened with +masses of scoriated rock--and found a good encampment on the verge of +open bottom, which had been an old camping-ground of the Cayuse +Indians. A great number of deer-horns were lying about, indicating game +in the neighborhood. The timber was uniformly large, some of the pines +measuring 22 feet in circumference at the ground, and 12 to 13 feet at +six feet above. + +In all our journeying, we had never traveled through a country where +the rivers were so abounding in falls; and the name of this stream is +singularly characteristic. At every place where we come in the +neighborhood of the river, is heard the roaring of falls. The rock +along the banks of the stream, and the ledge over which it falls, is a +scoriated basalt, with a bright metallic fracture. The stream goes over +in one clear pitch, succeeded by a foaming cataract of several hundred +yards. In a little bottom above the falls, a small stream discharges +into an _entonnoir_, and disappears below. + +We made an early encampment, and in the course of the evening Mr. +Fitzpatrick joined us here with the lost mule. Our lodge-poles were +nearly worn out, and we found here a handsome set, leaning against one +of the trees, very white, and cleanly scraped. Had the owners been +here, we would have purchased them; but as they were not, we merely +left the old ones in their place, with a small quantity of tobacco. + +6th.--The morning was frosty and clear. We continued up the stream on +undulating forest ground, over which there was scattered much falling +timber. We met here a village of Nez Perce Indians, who appeared to be +coming down from the mountains, and had with them fine bands of horses. +With them were a few Snake Indians of the root-digging species. From +the forest we emerged into an open valley ten or twelve miles wide, +through which the stream was flowing tranquilly, upwards of two hundred +feet broad, with occasional islands, and bordered with fine broad +bottoms. Crossing the river, which here issues from a great mountain +ridge on the right, we continued up the southern and smaller branch +over a level country, consisting of fine meadow-land, alternating with +pine forests, and encamped on it early in the evening. A warm sunshine +made the day pleasant. + +7th.--To-day we had good traveling ground, the trail leading sometimes +over rather sandy soils in the pine forest, and sometimes over +meadow-land along the stream. The great beauty of the country in summer +constantly suggested itself to our imaginations; and even now we found +it beautiful, as we rode along these meadows, from half a mile to two +miles wide. The rich soil and excellent water, surrounded by noble +forests, make a picture that would delight the eye of a farmer. + +I observed to-night an occultation of _a Geminorum_; which, although at +the bright limb of the moon, appears to give a very good result, that +has been adopted for the longitude. The occultation, observations of +satellites, and our position deduced from daily surveys with the +compass, agree remarkably well together, and mutually support and +strengthen each other. The latitude of the camp is 43° 30' 36"; and +longitude, deduced from the occultation, 121° 33' 50". + +8th.--To-day we crossed the last branch of the Fall river, issuing, +like all the others we had crossed, in a southwesterly direction from +the mountains. Our direction was a little east of south, the trail +leading constantly through pine forests. The soil was generally bare, +consisting, in greater part, of a yellowish-white pumice-stone, +producing varieties of magnificent pines, but not a blade of grass; and +to-night our horses were obliged to do without food, and use snow for +water. These pines are remarkable for the red color of the bolls; and +among them occurs a species of which the Indians had informed me when +leaving the Dalles. The unusual size of the cone (16 or 18 inches long) +had attracted their attention; and they pointed it out to me among the +curiosities of the country. They are more remarkable for their large +diameter than their height, which usually averages only about 120 feet. +The leaflets are short--only two or three inches long, and five in a +sheath; the bark of a red color. + +9th.--The trail leads always through splendid pine forests. Crossing +dividing grounds by a very fine road, we descended very gently towards +the south. The weather was pleasant, and we halted late. The soil was +very much like that of yesterday; and on the surface of a hill near our +encampment, were displayed beds of pumice-stone; but the soil produced +no grass, and again the animals fared badly. + +10th.--The country began to improve; and about eleven o'clock we +reached a spring of cold water on the edge of a savannah, or grassy +meadow, which our guides informed us was an arm of the Tlamath lake; +and a few miles further we entered upon an extensive meadow, or lake of +grass, surrounded by timbered mountains. This was the Tlamath lake. It +was a picturesque and beautiful spot, and rendered more attractive to +us by the abundant and excellent grass, which our animals, after +traveling through pine forests, so much needed; but the broad sheet of +water which constitutes a lake was not to be seen. Overlooking it, +immediately west, were several snowy knobs, belonging to what we have +considered a branch of the Cascade range. A low point, covered with +pines, made out into the lake, which afforded us a good place for an +encampment, and for the security of our horses, which were guarded in +view on the open meadow. The character of courage and hostility +attributed to the Indians in this quarter induced more than usual +precaution; and, seeing smokes rising from the middle of the lake (or +savannah) and along the opposite shores, I directed the howitzer to be +fired. It was the first time our guides had seen it discharged; and the +bursting of the shell at a distance, which was something like the +second fire of the gun, amazed and bewildered them with delight. It +inspired them with triumphant feelings; but on the camps at a distance +the effect was different, for the smokes in the lake and on the shores +immediately disappeared. + +The point on which we were encamped forms, with the opposite eastern +shore, a narrow neck, connecting the body of the lake with a deep cove +or bay which receives the principal affluent stream, and over the +greater part of which the water (or rather ice) was at this time +dispersed in shallow pools. Among the grass, and scattered over the +prairie lake, appeared to be similar marshes. It is simply a shallow +basin, which, for a short period at the time of melting snows, is +covered with water from the neighboring mountains; but this probably +soon runs off, and leaves for the remainder of the year a green +savannah, through the midst of which the river Tlamath, which flows to +the ocean, winds its way to the outlet on the south-western side. + +11th.--No Indians made their appearance, and I determined to pay them a +visit. Accordingly the people were gathered together, and we rode out +towards the village in the middle of the lake which one of our guides +had previously visited. It could not be directly approached, as a large +part of the lake appeared a marsh; and there were sheets of ice among +the grass on which our horses could not keep their footing. We +therefore followed the guide for a considerable distance along the +forest; and then turned off towards the village, which we soon began to +see was a few large huts, on the tops of which were collected the +Indians. When we had arrived within half a mile of the village, two +persons were seen advancing to meet us; and, to please the fancy of our +guides, we ranged ourselves into a long line, riding abreast, while +they galloped ahead to meet the strangers. + +We were surprised, on riding up, to find one of them a woman, having +never before known a squaw to take any part in the business of war. +They were the village chief and his wife, who, in excitement and alarm +at the unusual event and appearance, had come out to meet their fate +together. The chief was a very prepossessing Indian, with handsome +features, and a singularly soft and agreeable voice--so remarkable as +to attract general notice. + +The huts were grouped together on the bank of the river which, from +being spread out in a shallow marsh at the upper end of the lake, was +collected here into a single stream. They were large round huts, +perhaps 20 feet in diameter, with rounded tops, on which was the door +by which they descended into the interior. Within, they were supported +by posts and beams. + +Almost like plants, these people seem to have adapted themselves to the +soil, and to be growing on what the immediate locality afforded. Their +only subsistence at the time appeared to be a small fish, great +quantities of which, that had been smoked and dried, were suspended on +strings about the lodge. Heaps of straw were lying around; and their +residence in the midst of grass and rushes had taught them a peculiar +skill in converting this material to useful purposes. Their shoes were +made of straw or grass, which seemed well adapted for a snowy country; +and the women wore on their heads a closely-woven basket, which made a +very good cap. Among other things, were party-colored mats about four +feet square, which we purchased to lay on the snow under our blankets, +and to use for table-cloths. + +Numbers of singular-looking dogs, resembling wolves, were sitting on +the tops of the huts; and of these we purchased a young one, which, +after its birthplace, was named Tlamath. The language spoken by these +Indians is different from that of the Shoshonee and Columbia River +tribes; and otherwise than by signs they cannot understand each other. +They made us comprehend that they were at war with the people who lived +to the southward and to the eastward; but I could obtain from them no +certain information. The river on which they live enters the Cascade +mountains on the western side of the lake, and breaks through them by a +passage impracticable for travelers; but over the mountains, to the +northward, are passes which present no other obstacle than in the +almost impenetrable forests. Unlike any Indians we had previously seen, +these wore shells in their noses. We returned to our camp, after +remaining here an hour or two, accompanied by a number of Indians. + +In order to recruit a little the strength of our animals, and obtain +some acquaintance with the locality, we remained here for the remainder +of the day. By observation, the latitude of the camp was 42° 56' 51", +and the diameter of the lake, or meadow, as has been intimated, about +20 miles. It is a picturesque and beautiful spot, and, under the hand +of cultivation, might become a little paradise. Game is found in the +forest, timbered and snowy mountains skirt it, and fertility +characterizes it. Situated near the heads of three rivers, and on the +line of inland communication with California, and near to Indians noted +for treachery, it will naturally, in the progress of the settlement of +Oregon, become a point for military occupation and settlement. + +From Tlamath lake, the further continuation of our voyage assumed a +character of discovery and exploration, which, from the Indians here, +we could obtain no information to direct, and where the imaginary maps +of the country, instead of assisting, exposed us to suffering and +defeat. In our journey across the desert, Mary's lake, and the famous +Buenaventura river, were two points on which I relied to recruit the +animals and repose the party. Forming, agreeably to the best maps in my +possession, a connected water-line from the Rocky mountains to the +Pacific ocean, I felt no other anxiety than to pass safely across the +intervening desert to the banks of the Buenaventura, where, in the +softer climate of a more southern latitude, our horses might find grass +to sustain them, and ourselves be sheltered from the rigors of winter, +and from the inhospitable desert. The guides who had conducted us thus +far on our journey were about to return; and I endeavored in vain to +obtain others to lead us, even for a few days, in the direction (east) +which we wished to go. The chief to whom I applied alleged the want of +horses, and the snow on the mountains across which our course would +carry us, and the sickness of his family, as reasons for refusing to go +with us. + +12th.--This morning the camp was thronged with Tlamath Indians from the +southeastern shore of the lake; but, knowing the treacherous +disposition which is a remarkable characteristic of the Indians south +of the Columbia, the camp was kept constantly on its guard. I was not +unmindful of the disasters which Smith and other travelers had met with +in this country, and therefore was equally vigilant in guarding against +treachery and violence. + +According to the best information I had been able to obtain from the +Indians, in a few days' traveling we should reach another large water, +probably a lake, which they indicated exactly in the course we were +about to pursue. We struck our tents at 10 o'clock, and crossed the +lake in a nearly east direction, where it has the least extension--the +breadth of the arm being here only about a mile and a half. There were +ponds of ice, with but little grass, for the greater part of the way, +and it was difficult to get the pack-animals across, which fell +frequently, and could not get up with their loads, unassisted. The +morning was very unpleasant, snow falling at intervals in large flakes, +and the sky dark. In about two hours we succeeded in getting the +animals over; and, after traveling another hour along the eastern shore +of the lake, we turned up into a cove where there was a sheltered place +among the timber, with good grass, and encamped. The Indians, who had +accompanied us so far, returned to their village on the south-eastern +shore. Among the pines here, I noticed some five or six feet in +diameter. + +13th.--The night has been cold; the peaks around the lake gleam out +brightly in the morning sun, and the thermometer is at zero. We +continued up the hollow formed by a small affluent to the lake, and +immediately entered an open pine forest on the mountain. The way here +was sometimes obstructed by fallen trees, and the snow was four to +twelve inches deep. The mules at the gun pulled heavily, and walking +was a little laborious. In the midst of the wood, we heard the sound of +galloping horses, and were agreeably surprised by the unexpected +arrival of our Tlamath chief with several Indians. He seemed to have +found his conduct inhospitable in letting the strangers depart without +a guide through the snow, and had come, with a few others, to pilot us +a day or two on the way. After traveling in an easterly direction +through the forest for about four hours, we reached a considerable +stream, with a border of good grass; and here, by the advice of our +guides, we encamped. It is about thirty feet wide, and two to four feet +deep, the water clear, with some current; and, according to the +information of our Indians, is the principal affluent to the lake, and +the head-water of the Tlamath river. + +A very clear sky enabled me to obtain here to-night good observations, +including an emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, which gave for +the long. 121° 20' 42", and for the lat. 42° 51' 26". This emersion +coincides remarkably well with the result obtained from an occultation +at the encampment of December 7th to 8th, 1843; from which place, the +line of our survey gives an easting of 13 miles. The day's journey was +12 miles. + +14th.--Our road was over a broad mountain, and we rode seven hours in a +thick snow-storm, always through pine forests, when we came down upon +the head-waters of another stream, on which there was grass. The snow +lay deep on the ground, and only the high swamp-grass appeared above. +The Indians were thinly clad, and I had remarked during the day that +they suffered from cold. This evening they told me that the snow was +getting too deep on the mountain, and I could not induce them to go any +farther. The stream we had struck issued from the mountain in an +easterly direction, turning to the southward a short distance below; +and, drawing its course upon the ground, they made us comprehend that +it pursued its way for a long distance in that direction, uniting with +many other streams, and gradually becoming a great river. Without the +subsequent information, which confirmed the opinion, we became +immediately satisfied that this water formed the principal stream of +the Sacramento river; and, consequently, that this main affluent of the +bay of San Francisco had its source within the limits of the United +States, and opposite a tributary to the Columbia, and near the head of +the Tlamath river, which goes to the ocean north of 42°, and within the +United States. + +15th.--A present, consisting of useful goods, afforded much +satisfaction to our guides; and, showing them the national flag, I +explained that it was a symbol of our nation; and they engaged always +to receive it in a friendly manner. The chief pointed out a course, by +following which we would arrive at the big water, where no more snow +was to be found. Traveling in a direction N. 60° E. by compass, which +the Indians informed me would avoid a bad mountain to the right, we +crossed the Sacramento where it turned to the southward, and entered a +grassy level plain--a smaller Grand Rond; from the lower end of which +the river issued into an inviting country of low rolling hills. +Crossing a hard-frozen swamp on the farther side of the Rond, we +entered again the pine forest, in which very deep snow made our +traveling slow and laborious. We were slowly but gradually ascending a +mountain; and, after a hard journey of seven hours, we came to some +naked places among the timber, where a few tufts of grass showed above +the snow, on the side of a hollow; and here we encamped. Our cow, which +every day got poorer, was killed here, but the meat was rather tough. + +16th.--We traveled this morning through snow about three feet deep, +which, being crusted, very much cut the feet of our animals. The +mountain still gradually rose; we crossed several spring heads covered +with quaking asp; otherwise it was all pine forest. The air was dark +with falling snow, which everywhere weighed down the trees. The depths +of the forest were profoundly still; and below, we scarcely felt a +breath of the wind which whirled the snow through their branches. I +found that it required some exertion of constancy to adhere steadily to +one course through the woods, when we were uncertain how far the forest +extended, or what lay beyond; and, on account of our animals, it would +be bad to spend another night on the mountain. Towards noon the forest +looked clear ahead, appearing suddenly to terminate; and beyond a +certain point we could see no trees. Riding rapidly ahead to this spot, +we found ourselves on the verge of a vertical and rocky wall of the +mountain. At our feet--more than a thousand feet below--we looked into +a green prairie country, in which a beautiful lake, some twenty miles +in length, was spread along the foot of the mountains, its shores +bordered with green grass. Just then the sun broke out among the +clouds, and illuminated the country below; while around us the storm +raged fiercely. Not a particle of ice was to be seen on the lake, or +snow on its borders, and all was like summer or spring. The glow of the +sun in the valley below brightened up our hearts with sudden pleasure; +and we made the woods ring with joyful shouts to those behind; and +gradually, as each came up, he stopped to enjoy the unexpected scene. +Shivering on snow three feet deep, and stiffening in a cold north wind, +we exclaimed at once that the names of Summer Lake and Winter Ridge +should be applied to these two proximate places of such sudden and +violent contrast. + +We were now immediately on the verge of the forest land, in which we +had been traveling so many days; and, looking forward to the east, +scarce a tree was to be seen. Viewed from our elevation, the face of +the country exhibited only rocks and grass, and presented a region in +which the artemisia became the principal wood, furnishing to its +scattered inhabitants fuel for their fires, building material for their +huts, and shelter for the small game which ministers to their hunger +and nakedness. Broadly marked by the boundary at the mountain wall, and +immediately below us, were the first waters of that Great Interior +Basin which has the Wahsatch and Bear River mountains for its eastern, +and the Sierra Nevada for its western rim; and the edge of which we had +entered upwards of three months before, at the Great Salt Lake. + +When we had sufficiently admired the scene below, we began to think +about descending, which here was impossible, and we turned towards the +north, traveling always along the rocky wall. We continued on for four +or five miles, making ineffectual attempts at several places; and at +length succeeded in getting down at one which was extremely difficult +of descent. Night had closed in before the foremost reached the bottom, +and it was dark before we all found ourselves together in the valley. +There were three or four half-dead dry cedar-trees on the shore, and +those who first arrived kindled bright fires to light on the others. +One of the mules rolled over and over two or three hundred feet into a +ravine, but recovered himself without any other injury than to his +pack; and the howitzer was left midway the mountain until morning. By +observation, the latitude of this encampment is 42° 57' 22". It delayed +us until near noon the next day to recover ourselves and put every +thing in order; and we made only a short camp along the western shore +of the lake, which, in the summer temperature we enjoyed to-day, +justified the name we had given it. Our course would have taken us to +the other shore, and over the highlands beyond; but I distrusted the +appearance of the country, and decided to follow a plainly-beaten +Indian trail leading along this side of the lake. We were now in a +country where the scarcity of water and of grass makes traveling +dangerous, and great caution was necessary. + +18th.--We continued on the trail along the narrow strip of land between +the lake and the high rocky wall, from which we had looked down two +days before. Almost every half mile we crossed a little spring, or +stream of pure cold water, and the grass was certainly as fresh and +green as in the early spring. From the white efflorescence along the +shore of the lake, we were enabled to judge that the water was impure, +like that of lakes we subsequently found, but the mud prevented us from +approaching it. We encamped near the eastern point of the lake, where +there appeared between the hills a broad and low connecting hollow with +the country beyond. From a rocky hill in the rear, I could see, marked +out by a line of yellow dried grass, the bed of a stream, which +probably connected the lake with other waters in the spring. + +The observed latitude of this encampment is 42° 42' 37". + +19th.--After two hours' ride in an easterly direction, through a low +country, the high ridge with pine forest still to our right, and a +rocky and bald but lower one on the left, we reached a considerable +fresh-water stream, which issues from the piny mountains. So far as we +had been able to judge, between this stream and the lake we had crossed +dividing grounds, and there did not appear to be any connection, as +might be inferred from the impure condition of the lake water. + +The rapid stream of pure water, roaring along between banks overhung +with aspens and willows, was a refreshing and unexpected sight; and we +followed down the course of the stream, which brought us soon into a +marsh, or dry lake, formed by the expanding waters of the stream. It +was covered with high reeds and rushes, and large patches of ground had +been turned up by the squaws in digging for roots, as if a farmer had +been preparing the land for grain. I could not succeed in finding the +plant for which they had been digging. There were frequent trails, and +fresh tracks of Indians; and, from the abundant signs visible, the +black-tailed hare appears to be numerous here. It was evident that, in +other seasons, this place was a sheet of water. Crossing this marsh +towards the eastern hills, and passing over a bordering plain of heavy +sands, covered with artemisia, we encamped before sundown on the creek, +which here was very small, having lost its water in the marshy grounds. +We found here tolerably good grass. The wind to-night was high, and we +had no longer our huge pine fires, but were driven to our old resource +of small dried willows and artemisia. About 12 miles ahead, the valley +appears to be closed in by a high, dark-looking ridge. + +20th.--Traveling for a few hours down the stream this morning, we +turned the point of a hill on our left, and came suddenly in sight of +another and much larger lake, which, along its eastern shore, was +closely bordered by the high black ridge which walled it in by a +precipitous face on this side. Throughout this region the face of the +country is characterized by these precipices of black volcanic rock, +generally enclosing the valleys of streams, and frequently terminating +the hills. Often, in the course of our journey, we would be tempted to +continue our road up the gentle ascent of a sloping hill, which, at the +summit, would terminate abruptly in a black precipice. Spread out over +a length of 20 miles, the lake, when we first came in view, presented a +handsome sheet of water, and I gave to it the name of Lake Abert, in +honor of the chief of the corps to which I belonged. The fresh-water +stream we had followed emptied into the lake by a little fall; and I +was doubtful for a moment whether to go on, or encamp at this place. +The miry ground in the neighborhood of the lake did not allow us to +examine the water conveniently, and, being now on the borders of a +desert country, we were moving cautiously. It was, however, still early +in the day, and I continued on trusting either that the water would be +drinkable or that we should find some little spring from the hill-side. +We were following an Indian trail which led along the steep rocky +precipice--a black ridge along the western shore holding out no +prospect whatever. The white efflorescences which lined the shore like +a bank of snow, and the disagreeable odor which filled the air as soon +as we came near, informed us too plainly that the water belonged to one +of those fetid salt lakes which are common in this region. We continued +until late in the evening to work along the rocky shore, but, as often +afterwards, the dry, inhospitable rock deceived us; and, halting on the +lake, we kindled up fires to guide those who were straggling along +behind. We tried the water, but it was impossible to drink it, and most +of the people to-night lay down without eating; but some of us, who had +always a great reluctance to close the day without supper, dug holes +along the shore, and obtained water, which, being filtered, was +sufficiently palatable to be used, but still retained much of its +nauseating taste. There was very little grass for the animals, the +shore being lined with a luxuriant growth of chenopodiaceous shrubs, +which burned with a quick bright flame, and made our firewood. + +The next morning we had scarcely traveled two hours along the shore, +when we reached a place where the mountains made a bay, leaving at +their feet a low bottom around the lake. Here we found numerous +hillocks covered with rushes, in the midst of which were deep holes, or +springs, of pure water; and the bottom was covered with grass, which, +although of a salt and unwholesome quality, and mixed with saline +efflorescences, was still abundant, and made a good halting-place to +recruit our animals, and we accordingly encamped here for the remainder +of the day. I rode ahead several miles to ascertain if there was any +appearance of a water-course entering the lake, but found none, the +hills preserving their dry character, and the shore of the lake +sprinkled with the same white powdery substance, and covered with the +same shrubs. There were flocks of ducks on the lake, and frequent +tracks of Indians along the shore, where the grass had been recently +burnt by their fires. + +We ascended the bordering mountain, in order to obtain a more perfect +view of the lake, in sketching its figure: hills sweep entirely around +its basin, from which the waters have no outlet. + +22d.--To-day we left this forbidding lake. Impassable rocky ridges +barred our progress to the eastward, and I accordingly bore off towards +the south, over an extensive sage-plain. At a considerable distance +ahead, and a little on our left, was a range of snowy mountains, and +the country declined gradually towards the foot of a high and nearer +ridge, immediately before us, which presented the feature of black +precipices now becoming common to the country. On the summit of the +ridge, snow was visible; and there being every indication of a stream +at its base, we rode on until after dark, but were unable to reach it, +and halted among the sage-bushes on the open plain, without either +grass or water. The two India-rubber bags had been filled with water in +the morning, which afforded sufficient for the camp; and rain in the +night formed pools, which relieved the thirst of the animals. Where we +encamped on the bleak sandy plain, the Indians had made huts or +circular enclosures, about four feet high and twelve feet broad, of +artemisia bushes. Whether these had been forts or houses, or what they +had been doing in such a desert place, we could not ascertain. + +23d.--The weather is mild; the thermometer at daylight 38°; the wind +having been from the southward for several days. The country has a very +forbidding appearance, presenting to the eye nothing but sage, and +barren ridges. We rode up towards the mountain, along the foot of which +we found a lake, that we could not approach on account of the mud; and, +passing around its southern end, ascended the slope at the foot of the +ridge, where in some hollows we had discovered bushes and small +trees--in such situations, a sure sign of water. We found here several +springs, and the hill-side was well sprinkled with a species of +_festuca_--a better grass than we had found for many days. Our elevated +position gave us a good view over the country, but we discovered +nothing very encouraging. Southward, about ten miles distant, was +another small lake, towards which a broad trail led along the ridge; +and this appearing to afford the most practicable route, I determined +to continue our journey in that direction. + +24th.--We found the water at the lake tolerably pure, and encamped at +the farther end. There were some good grass and canes along the shore, +and the vegetables at this place consisted principally of +chenopodiaceous shrubs. + +25th.--We were roused on Christmas morning by a discharge from the +small-arms and howitzer, with which our people saluted the day; and the +name of which we bestowed on the lake. It was the first time, perhaps, +in this remote and desolate region, in which it had been so +commemorated. Always, on days of religious or national commemoration, +our voyageurs expect some unusual allowance; and having nothing else, I +gave them each a little brandy, (which was carefully guarded, as one of +the most useful articles a traveler can carry,) with some coffee and +sugar, which here, where every eatable was a luxury, was sufficient to +make them a feast. The day was sunny and warm; and resuming our +journey, we crossed some slight dividing grounds into a similar basin, +walled in on the right by a lofty mountain ridge. The plainly-beaten +trail still continued, and occasionally we passed camping-grounds of +the Indians, which indicated to me that we were on one of the great +thoroughfares of the country. In the afternoon I attempted to travel in +a more eastern direction; but after a few laborious miles, was beaten +back into the basin by an impassable country. There were fresh Indian +tracks about the valley, and last night a horse was stolen. We encamped +on the valley bottom, where there was some cream-like water in ponds, +colored by a clay soil, and frozen over. Chenopodiaceous shrubs +constituted the growth, and made again our firewood. The animals were +driven to the hill, where there was tolerably good grass. + +26th.--Our general course was again south. The country consists of +larger or smaller basins, into which the mountain waters run down, +forming small lakes: they present a perfect level, from which the +mountains rise immediately and abruptly. Between the successive basins, +the dividing grounds are usually very slight; and it is probable that +in the seasons of high water, many of these basins are in +communication. At such times there is evidently an abundance of water, +though now we find scarcely more than the dry beds. On either side, the +mountains, though not very high, appear to be rocky and sterile. The +basin in which we were traveling declined towards the southwest corner, +where the mountains indicated a narrow outlet; and, turning round a +rocky point or cape, we continued up a lateral branch valley, in which +we encamped at night, on a rapid, pretty little stream of fresh water, +which we found unexpectedly among the sage, near the ridge, on the +right side of the valley. It was bordered with grassy bottoms and +clumps of willows; the water partially frozen. This stream belongs to +the basin we had left. By a partial observation to-night, our camp was +found to be directly on the 42d parallel. To-night a horse belonging to +Carson, one of the best we had in the camp, was stolen by the Indians. + +27th.--We continued up the valley of the stream, the principal branch +of which here issues from a bed of high mountains. We turned up a +branch to the left, and fell into an Indian trail, which conducted us +by a good road over open bottoms along the creek, where the snow was +five or six inches deep. Gradually ascending, the trail led through a +good broad pass in the mountain, where we found the snow about one foot +deep. There were some remarkably large cedars in the pass, which were +covered with an unusual quantity of frost, which we supposed might +possibly indicate the neighborhood of water; and as, in the arbitrary +position of Mary's lake, we were already beginning to look for it, this +circumstance contributed to our hope of finding it near. Descending +from the mountain, we reached another basin, on the flat lake bed of +which we found no water, and encamped among the sage on the bordering +plain, where the snow was still about one foot deep. Among this the +grass was remarkably green, and to-night the animals fared tolerably +well. + +28th.--The snow being deep, I had determined, if any more horses were +stolen, to follow the tracks of the Indians into the mountains, and put +a temporary check to their sly operations; but it did not occur again. + +Our road this morning lay down a level valley, bordered by steep +mountainous ridges, rising very abruptly from the plain. Artemisia was +the principal plant, mingled with Fremontia and the chenopodiaceous +shrubs. The artemisia was here extremely large, being sometimes a foot +in diameter, and eight feet high. Riding quietly along over the snow, +we came suddenly upon smokes rising among these bushes; and, galloping +up, we found two huts, open at the top, and loosely built of sage, +which appeared to have been deserted at the instant; and, looking +hastily around, we saw several Indians on the crest of the ridge near +by, and several others scrambling up the side. We had come upon them so +suddenly, that they had been well-nigh surprised in their lodges. A +sage fire was burning in the middle; a few baskets made of straw were +lying about, with one or two rabbit-skins; and there was a little grass +scattered about, on which they had been lying. "Tabibo--bo!" they +shouted from the hills--a word which, in the Snake language, signifies +_white_--and remained looking at us from behind the rocks. Carson and +Godey rode towards the hill, but the men ran off like deer. They had +been so much pressed, that a woman with two children had dropped behind +a sage-bush near the lodge, and when Carson accidentally stumbled upon +her, she immediately began screaming in the extremity of fear, and shut +her eyes fast to avoid seeing him. She was brought back to the lodge, +and we endeavored in vain to open a communication with the men. By dint +of presents, and friendly demonstrations, she was brought to calmness; +and we found that they belonged to the Snake nation, speaking the +language of that people. Eight or ten appeared to live together, under +the same little shelter; and they seemed to have no other subsistence +than the roots or seeds they might have stored up, and the hares which +live in the sage, and which they are enabled to track through the snow, +and are very skilful in killing. Their skins afford them a little +scanty covering. Herding together among bushes, and crouching almost +naked over a little sage fire, using their instinct only to procure +food, these may be considered, among human beings, the nearest approach +to the animal creation. We have reason to believe that these had never +before seen the face of a white man. + +The day had been pleasant, but about two o'clock it began to blow; and +crossing a slight dividing ground we encamped on the sheltered side of +a hill, where there was good bunch-grass, having made a day's journey +of 24 miles. The night closed in, threatening snow; but the large +sage-bushes made bright fires. + +29th.--The morning mild, and at 4 o'clock it commenced snowing. We took +our way across a plain, thickly covered with snow, towards a range of +hills in the southeast. The sky soon became so dark with snow, that +little could be seen of the surrounding country; and we reached the +summit of the hills in a heavy snow-storm. On the side we had +approached, this had appeared to be only a ridge of low hills and we +were surprised to find ourselves on the summit of a bed of broken +mountains, which, as far as the weather would permit us to see, +declined rapidly to some low country ahead, presenting a dreary and +savage character; and for a moment I looked around in doubt on the wild +and inhospitable prospect, scarcely knowing what road to take which +might conduct us to some place of shelter for the night. Noticing among +the hills the head of a grassy hollow, I determined to follow it, in +the hope that it would conduct us to a stream. We followed a winding +descent for several miles, the hollow gradually broadening into little +meadows, and becoming the bed of a stream as we advanced; and towards +night we were agreeably surprised by the appearance of a willow grove, +where we found a sheltered camp, with water and excellent and abundant +grass. The grass, which was covered by the snow on the bottom, was long +and green, and the face of the mountain had a more favorable character +in its vegetation, being smoother, and covered with good bunch-grass. +The snow was deep, and the night very cold. A broad trail had entered +the valley from the right, and a short distance below the camp were the +tracks where a considerable party of Indians had passed on horseback, +who had turned out to the left, apparently with the view of crossing +the mountains to the eastward. + +30th.--After following the stream for a few hours in a southeasterly +direction, it entered a canon where we could not follow; but, +determined not to leave the stream, we searched a passage below, where +we could regain it, and entered a regular narrow valley. The water had +now more the appearance of a flowing creek; several times we passed +groves of willows, and we began to feel ourselves out of all +difficulty. From our position, it was reasonable to conclude that this +stream would find its outlet in Mary's lake, and conduct us into a +better country. We had descended rapidly, and here we found very little +snow. On both sides, the mountains showed often stupendous and +curious-looking rocks, which at several places so narrowed the valley, +that scarcely a pass was left for the camp. It was a singular place to +travel through--shut up in the earth, a sort of chasm, the little strip +of grass under our feet, the rough walls of bare rock on either hand, +and the narrow strip of sky above. The grass to-night was abundant, and +we encamped in high spirits. + +31st.--After an hour's ride this morning, our hopes were once more +destroyed. The valley opened out, and before us again lay one of the +dry basins. After some search, we discovered a high-water outlet, which +brought us in a few miles, and by a descent of several hundred feet, +into a long, broad basin, in which we found the bed of the stream, and +obtained sufficient water by cutting the ice. The grass on the bottoms +was salt and unpalatable. + +Here we concluded the year 1843, and our new year's eve was rather a +gloomy one. The result of our journey began to be very uncertain; the +country was singularly unfavorable to travel; the grasses being +frequently of a very unwholesome character, and the hoofs of our +animals were so worn and cut by the rocks, that many of them were lame, +and could scarcely be got along. + + + +JANUARY. + + +New Year's day, 1844.--We continued down the valley, between a +dry-looking black ridge on the left, and a more snowy and high one on +the right. Our road was bad along the bottom, being broken by gullies +and impeded by sage, and sandy on the hills, where there is not a blade +of grass, nor does any appear on the mountains. The soil in many places +consists of a fine powdery sand, covered with a saline efflorescence; +and the general character of the country is desert. During the day we +directed our course towards a black cape, at the foot of which a column +of smoke indicated hot springs. + +2d.--We were on the road early. The face of the country was hidden by +falling snow. We traveled along the bed of the stream, in some places +dry, in others covered with ice; the traveling being very bad, through +deep fine sand, rendered tenacious by a mixture of clay. The weather +cleared up a little at noon, and we reached the hot springs of which we +had seen the vapor the day before. There was a large field of the usual +salt grass here, peculiar to such places. The country otherwise is a +perfect barren, without a blade of grass, the only plant being some +dwarf Fremontias. We passed the rocky cape, a jagged broken point, bare +and torn. The rocks are volcanic, and the hills here have a burnt +appearance--cinders and coal occasionally appearing as at a +blacksmith's forge. We crossed the large dry bed of a muddy lake in a +southeasterly direction, and encamped at night, without water and +without grass, among sage-bushes covered with snow. The heavy road made +several mules give out to-day; and a horse, which had made the journey +from the States successfully, thus far, was left on the trail. + +3d.--A fog, so dense that we could not see a hundred yards, covered the +country, and the men that were sent out after the horses were +bewildered and lost; and we were consequently detained at camp until +late in the day. Our situation had now become a serious one. We had +reached and run over the position where, according to the best maps in +my possession, we should have found Mary's lake or river. We were +evidently on the verge of the desert which had been reported to us; and +the appearance of the country was so forbidding, that I was afraid to +enter it, and determined to bear away to the southward, keeping close +along the mountains, in the full expectation of reaching the +Buenaventura river. This morning I put every man in the camp on +foot--myself, of course, among the rest--and in this manner lightened +by distribution the loads of the animals. We traveled seven or eight +miles along the ridge bordering the valley, and encamped where there +were a few bunches of grass on the bed of a hill-torrent, without +water. There were some large artemisias; but the principal plants are +chenopodiaceous shrubs. The rock composing the mountains is here +changed suddenly into white granite. The fog showed the tops of the +hills at sunset, and stars enough for observations in the early +evening, and then closed over us as before. Latitude by observation, +40° 48' 15". + +4th.--The fog to-day was still more dense, and the people again were +bewildered. We traveled a few miles around the western point of the +ridge, and encamped where there were a few tufts of grass, but no +water. Our animals now were in a very alarming state, and there was +increased anxiety in the camp. + +5th.--Same dense fog continued, and one of the mules died in camp this +morning. I have had occasion to remark, on such occasions as these, +that animals which are about to die leave the band, and, coming into +the camp; lie down about the fires. We moved to a place where there was +a little better grass, about two miles distant. Taplin, one of our best +men, who had gone out on a scouting excursion, ascended a mountain near +by, and to his surprise emerged into a region of bright sunshine, in +which the upper parts of the mountain were glowing, while below all was +obscured in the darkest fog. + +6th.--The fog continued the same, and, with Mr. Preuss and Carson, I +ascended the mountain, to sketch the leading features of the country as +some indication of our future route, while Mr. Fitzpatrick explored the +country below. In a very short distance we had ascended above the mist, +but the view obtained was not very gratifying. The fog had partially +cleared off from below when we reached the summit; and in the southwest +corner of a basin communicating with that in which we had encamped, we +saw a lofty column of smoke, 16 miles distant, indicating the presence +of hot springs. There, also, appeared to be the outlet of those +draining channels of the country; and, as such places afforded always +more or less grass, I determined to steer in that direction. The ridge +we had ascended appeared to be composed of fragments of white granite. +We saw here traces of sheep and antelope. + +Entering the neighboring valley, and crossing the bed of another lake, +after a hard day's travel over ground of yielding mud and sand, we +reached the springs, where we found an abundance of grass, which, +though only tolerably good, made this place, with reference to the +past, a refreshing and agreeable spot. + +This is the most extraordinary locality of hot springs we had met +during the journey. The basin of the largest one has a circumference of +several hundred feet; but there is at one extremity a circular space of +about fifteen feet in diameter, entirely occupied by the boiling water. +It boils up at irregular intervals, and with much noise. The water is +clear, and the spring deep: a pole about sixteen feet long was easily +immersed in the centre; but we had no means of forming a good idea of +the depth. It was surrounded on the margin with a border of _green_ +grass, and near the shore the temperature of the water was 206°. We had +no means of ascertaining that of the centre, where the heat was +greatest; but, by dispersing the water with a pole, the temperature at +the margin was increased to 208°, and in the centre it was doubtless +higher. By driving the pole towards the bottom, the water was made to +boil up with increased force and noise. There are several other +interesting places, where water and smoke or gas escape; but they would +require a long description. The water is impregnated with common salt, +but not so much as to render it unfit for general cooking; and a +mixture of snow made it pleasant to drink. + +In the immediate neighborhood, the valley bottom is covered almost +exclusively with chenopodiaceous shrubs, of greater luxuriance, and +larger growth, than we have seen them in any preceding part of the +journey. + +I obtained this evening some astronomical observations. + +Our situation now required caution. Including those which gave out from +the injured condition of their feet, and those stolen by Indians, we +had lost, since leaving the Dalles of the Columbia, fifteen animals; +and of these, nine had been left in the last few days. I therefore +determined, until we should reach a country of water and vegetation, to +feel our way ahead, by having the line of route explored some fifteen +or twenty miles in advance, and only to leave a present encampment when +the succeeding one was known. + +Taking with me Godey and Carson, I made to-day a thorough exploration +of the neighboring valleys, and found in a ravine, in the bordering +mountains, a good encamping place, where was water in springs, and a +sufficient quantity of grass for a night. Overshadowing the springs +were some trees of the sweet cottonwood, which, after a long interval +of absence, we saw again with pleasure; regarding them as harbingers of +a better country. To us, they were eloquent of green prairies and +buffalo. We found here a broad and plainly-marked trail, on which there +were tracks of horses, and we appeared to have regained one of the +thoroughfares which pass by the watering-places of the country. On the +western mountains of the valley, with which this of the boiling spring +communicates, we remarked scattered cedars--probably indicating that we +were on the borders of the timbered region extending to the Pacific. We +reached the camp at sunset, after a day's ride of about 40 miles. The +horses we rode were in good order, being of some that were kept for +emergencies, and rarely used. + +Mr. Preuss had ascended one of the mountains, and occupied the day in +sketching the country; and Mr. Fitzpatrick had found, a few miles +distant, a hollow of excellent grass and pure water, to which the +animals were driven, as I remained another day to give them an +opportunity to recruit their strength. Indians appear to be everywhere +prowling about like wild animals, and there is a fresh trail across the +snow in the valley near. + +Latitude of the boiling springs, 40° 39' 46". + +On the 9th we crossed over to the cottonwood camp. Among the shrubs on +the hills were a few bushes of _ephedra occidentalis_, which afterwards +occurred frequently along the road, and, as usual, the lowlands were +occupied with artemisia. While the party proceeded to this place, +Carson and myself reconnoitred the road in advance, and found another +good encampment for the following day. + +10th.--We continued our reconnoissance ahead, pursuing a south +direction in the basin along the ridge; the camp following slowly +after. On a large trail there is never any doubt of finding suitable +places for encampments. We reached the end of the basin, where we +found, in a hollow of the mountain which enclosed it, an abundance of +good bunch-grass. Leaving a signal for the party to encamp, we +continued our way up the hollow, intending to see what lay beyond the +mountain. The hollow was several miles long, forming a good pass; the +snow deepening to about a foot as we neared the summit. Beyond, a +defile between the mountains descended rapidly about two thousand feet; +and, filling up all the lower space, was a sheet of green water, some +twenty miles broad. It broke upon our eyes like the ocean. The +neighboring peaks rose high above us, and we ascended one of them to +obtain a better view. The waves were curling in the breeze, and their +dark-green color showed it to be a body of deep water. For a long time +we sat enjoying the view, for we had become fatigued with mountains, +and the free expanse of moving waves was very grateful. It was set like +a gem in the mountains, which, from our position, seemed to enclose it +almost entirely. At the western end it communicated with the line of +basins we had left a few days since; and on the opposite side it swept +a ridge of snowy mountains, the foot of the great Sierra. Its position +at first inclined us to believe it Mary's lake, but the rugged +mountains were so entirely discordant with descriptions of its low +rushy shores and open country, that we concluded it some unknown body +of water, which it afterwards proved to be. + +On our road down, the next day, we saw herds of mountain sheep, and +encamped on a little stream at the mouth of the defile, about a mile +from the margin of the water, to which we hurried down immediately. The +water is so slightly salt, that, at first, we thought it fresh, and +would be pleasant to drink when no other could be had. The shore was +rocky--a handsome beach, which reminded us of the sea. On some large +_granite_ boulders that were scattered about the shore, I remarked a +coating of calcareous substance, in some places a few inches, and in +others a foot in thickness. Near our camp, the hills, which were of +primitive rock, were also covered with this substance, which was in too +great quantity on the mountains along the shore of the lake to have +been deposited by water, and has the appearance of having been spread +over the rocks in mass. + +[Footnote: The label attached to a specimen of this rock was lost; but +I append an analysis of that which, from memory, I judge to be the +specimen: + +Carbonate of lime------------------ 77.31 Carbonate of +magnesia-------------- 5.25 Oxide of iron---------------------- 1.60 +Alumina---------------------------- 1.05 +Silica----------------------------- 8.55 Organic matter, water, and +loss---- 6.24 + ------- + 100.00] + +Where we had halted appeared to be a favorite camping-place for Indians. + +13th.--We followed again a broad Indian trail along the shore of the +lake to the southward. For a short space we had room enough in the +bottom; but, after traveling a short distance, the water swept the foot +of the precipitous mountains, the peaks of which are about 3,000 feet +above the lake. The trail wound along the base of these precipices, +against which the water dashed below, by a way nearly impracticable for +the howitzer. During a greater part of the morning the lake was nearly +hid by a snow-storm, and the waves broke on the narrow beach in a long +line of foaming serf, five or six feet high. The day was unpleasantly +cold, the wind driving the snow sharp against our faces; and, having +advanced only about 12 miles, we encamped in a bottom formed by a +ravine, covered with good grass, which was fresh and green. + +We did not get the howitzer into camp, but were obliged to leave it on +the rocks until morning. We saw several flocks of sheep, but did not +succeed in killing any. Ducks were riding on the waves, and several +large fish were seen. The mountain sides were crusted with the +calcareous cement previously mentioned. There were chenopodiaceous and +other shrubs along the beach; and, at the foot of the rocks, an +abundance of _ephedra occidentalis_, whose dark-green color makes them +evergreens among the shrubby growth of the lake. Towards evening the +snow began to fall heavily, and the country had a wintry appearance. + +The next morning the snow was rapidly melting under a warm sun. Part of +the morning was occupied in bringing up the gun; and, making only nine +miles, we encamped on the shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in the +lake, which had attracted our attention for many miles. It rose, +according to our estimate, 600 feet above the water, and, from the +point we viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of the great +pyramid of Cheops. Like other rocks along the shore, it seemed to be +incrusted with calcareous cement. This striking feature suggested a +name for the lake, and I called it Pyramid Lake; and though it may be +deemed by some a fanciful resemblance, I can undertake to say that the +future traveler will find much more striking resemblance between this +rock and the pyramids of Egypt, than there is between them and the +object from which they take their name. + +The elevation of this lake above the sea is 4,890 feet, being nearly +700 feet higher than the Great Salt lake, from which it lies nearly +west, and distant about eight degrees of longitude. The position and +elevation of this lake make it an object of geographical interest. It +is the nearest lake to the western rim, as the Great Salt lake is to +the eastern rim, of the Great Basin which lies between the base of the +Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada--and the extent and character of +which, its whole circumference and contents, it is so desirable to know. + +The last of the cattle which had been driven from the Dalles was killed +here for food, and was still in good condition. + +15th.--A few poor-looking Indians made their appearance this morning, +and we succeeded in getting one into the camp. He was naked, with the +exception of a tunic of hare-skins. He told us that there was a river +at the end of the lake, but that he lived in the rocks near by. From +the few words our people could understand, he spoke a dialect of the +Snake language; but we were not able to understand enough to know +Whether the river ran in or out, or what was its course; consequently, +there still remained a chance that this might be Mary's lake. + +Groves of large cottonwood, which we could see at the mouth of the +river, indicated that it was a stream of considerable size, and, at all +events, we had the pleasure to know that now we were in a country where +human beings could live. Accompanied by the Indian, we resumed our +road, passing on the way several caves in the rock where there were +baskets and reeds, but the people had disappeared. We saw also +horse-tracks along the shore. + +Early in the afternoon, when we were approaching the groves at the +mouth of the river, three or four Indians met us on the trail. We had +an explanatory conversation in signs, and then we moved on together +towards the village, which the chief said was encamped on the bottom. + +Reaching the groves, we found the _inlet_ of a large freshwater stream, +and all at once were satisfied that it was neither Mary's river nor the +waters of the Sacramento, but that we had discovered a large interior +lake, which the Indians informed us had no outlet. It is about 35 miles +long, and, by the mark of the water-line along the shore, the spring +level is about 12 feet above its present waters. The chief commenced +speaking in a loud voice as we approached; and parties of Indians, +armed with bows and arrows, issued from the thickets. We selected a +strong place for our encampment--a grassy bottom, nearly enclosed by +the river, and furnished with abundant firewood. The village, a +collection of straw huts, was a few hundred yards higher up. An Indian +brought in a large fish to trade, which we had the inexpressible +satisfaction to find was a salmon-trout; we gathered round him eagerly. +The Indians were amused with our delight, and immediately brought in +numbers, so that the camp was soon stocked. Their flavor was +excellent--superior, in fact, to that of any fish I have ever known. +They were of extraordinary size--about as large as the Columbia River +salmon--generally from two to four feet in length. From the information +of Mr. Walker, who passed among some lakes lying more to the eastward, +this fish is common to the streams of the inland lakes. He subsequently +informed me that he had obtained them weighing six pounds when cleaned +and the head taken off, which corresponds very well with the size of +those obtained at this place. They doubtless formed the subsistence of +these people, who hold the fishery in exclusive possession. + +I remarked that one of them gave a fish to the Indian we had first +seen, which he carried off to his family. To them it was probably a +feast; being of the Digger tribe, and having no share in the fishery, +living generally on seeds and roots. Although this was a time of the +year when the fish have not yet become fat, they were excellent, and we +could only imagine what they are at the proper season. These Indians +were very fat, and appeared to live an easy and happy life. They +crowded into the camp more than was consistent with our safety, +retaining always their arms; and, as they made some unsatisfactory +demonstrations, they were given to understand that they would not be +permitted to come armed into the camp; and strong guards were kept with +the horses. Strict vigilance was maintained among the people, and +one-third at a time were kept on guard during the night. There is no +reason to doubt that these dispositions, uniformly preserved, conducted +our party securely through Indians famed for treachery. + +In the mean time, such a salmon-trout feast as is seldom seen was going +on in our camp; and every variety of manner in which fish could be +prepared--boiled, fried, and roasted in the ashes--was put into +requisition; and every few minutes an Indian would be seen running off +to spear a fresh one. Whether these Indians had seen whites before, we +could not be certain; but they were evidently in communication with +others who had, as one of them had some brass buttons, and we noticed +several other articles of civilized manufacture. We could obtain from +them but little information respecting the country. They made on the +ground a drawing of the river, which they represented as issuing from +another lake in the mountains three or four days distant, in a +direction a little west of south; beyond which, they drew a mountain; +and further still, two rivers; on one of which they told us that people +like ourselves traveled. Whether they alluded to the settlements on the +Sacramento, or to a party from the United States which had crossed the +Sierra about three degrees to the southward, a few years since, I am +unable to determine. + +I tried unsuccessfully to prevail on some of them to guide us for a few +days on the road, but they only looked at each other and laughed. + +The latitude of our encampment, which may be considered the mouth of +the inlet, is 39° 51' 13" by our observations. + +16th.--This morning we continued our journey along this beautiful +stream, which we naturally called the Salmon Trout river. Large trails +led up on either side; the stream was handsomely timbered with large +cottonwoods; and the waters were very clear and pure. We were traveling +along the mountains of the great Sierra, which rose on our right, +covered with snow; but below the temperature was mild and pleasant. We +saw a number of dams which the Indians had constructed to catch fish. +After having made about 18 miles, we encamped under some large +cottonwoods on the river bottom, where there was tolerably good grass. + +17th.--This morning we left the river, which here issues from mountains +on the west. With every stream I now expected to see the great +Buenaventura; and Carson hurried eagerly to search, on every one we +reached, for beaver cuttings, which he always maintained we should find +only on waters that ran to the Pacific; and the absence of such signs +was to him a sure indication that the water had no outlet from the +Great Basin. We followed the Indian trail through a tolerably level +country, with small sage-bushes, which brought us, after 20 miles' +journey, to another large stream, timbered with cottonwood, and flowing +also out of the mountains, but running more directly to the eastward. + +On the way we surprised a family of Indians in the hills; but the man +ran up the mountain with rapidity; and the woman was so terrified, and +kept up such a continued screaming, that we could do nothing with her, +and were obliged to let her go. + +18th.--There were Indian lodges and fish-dams on the stream. There were +no beaver cuttings on the river; but below, it turned round to the +right; and, hoping that it would prove a branch of the Buenaventura, we +followed it down for about three hours, and encamped. + +I rode out with Mr. Fitzpatrick and Carson to reconnoitre the country, +which had evidently been alarmed by the news of our appearance. This +stream joined with the open valley of another to the eastward; but +which way the main water ran, it was impossible to tell. Columns of +smoke rose over the country at scattered intervals--signals by which +the Indians here, as elsewhere, communicate to each other that enemies +are in the country. It is a signal of ancient and very universal +application among barbarians. + +Examining into the condition of the animals when I returned into the +camp, I found their feet so much cut up by the rocks, and so many of +them lame, that it was evidently impossible that they could cross the +country to the Rocky mountains. Every piece of iron that could be used +for the purpose had been converted into nails, and we could make no +further use of the shoes we had remaining. I therefore determined to +abandon my eastern course, and to cross the Sierra Nevada into the +valley of the Sacramento, wherever a practicable pass could be found. +My decision was heard with joy by the people, and diffused new life +throughout the camp. + +Latitude, by observation, 39° 24' 16". + +19th.--A great number of smokes are still visible this morning, +attesting at once the alarm our appearance had spread among these +people, and their ignorance of us. If they knew the whites, they would +understand that their only object in coming among them was to trade, +which required peace and friendship; but they have nothing to +trade--consequently, nothing to attract the white man; hence their fear +and flight. + +At daybreak we had a heavy snow; but set out, and, returning up the +stream, went out of our way in a circuit over a little mountain; and +encamped on the same stream, a few miles above, in latitude 39° 19' 21" +by observation. + +20th.--To-day we continued up the stream, and encamped on it close to +the mountains. The freshly fallen snow was covered with the tracks of +Indians, who had descended from upper waters, probably called down by +the smokes in the plain. + +We ascended a peak of the range, which commanded a view of this stream +behind the first ridge, where it was winding its course through a +somewhat open valley, and I sometimes regret that I did not make the +trial to cross here; but while we had fair weather below, the mountains +were darkened with falling snow, and, feeling unwilling to encounter +them, we turned away again to the southward. In that direction we +traveled the next day over a tolerably level country, having always the +high mountains on the west. There was but little snow or rock on the +ground; and, after having traveled 24 miles, we encamped again on +another large stream, running off to the northward and eastward, to +meet that we had left. It ran through broad bottoms, having a fine +meadow-land appearance. + +Latitude 39° 01' 53". + +22d.--We traveled up the stream about fourteen miles, to the foot of +the mountains, from which one branch issued in the southwest, the other +flowing S.S.E. along their base. Leaving camp below, we ascended the +range through which the first stream passed, in a canon; on the western +side was a circular valley about 15 miles long, through which the +stream wound its way, issuing from a gorge in the main mountain, which +rose abruptly beyond. The valley looked yellow with faded grass; and +the trail we had followed was visible, making towards the gorge, and +this was evidently a pass; but again, while all was bright sunshine on +the ridge and on the valley where we were, the snow was falling heavily +in the mountains. I determined go still to the southward, and encamped +on the stream near the forks, the animals being fatigued and the grass +tolerably good. + +The rock of the ridge we had ascended is a compact lava, assuming a +granitic appearance and structure, and containing, in some places, +small nodules of obsidian. So far as composition and aspect are +concerned, the rock in other parts of the ridge appears to be granite; +but it is probable that this is only a compact form of lava of recent +origin. + +By observation, the elevation of the encampment was 5,020 feet; and the +latitude 38° 49' 54". + +23d.--We moved along the course of the other branch towards the +southeast, the country affording a fine road; and, passing some slight +dividing-grounds, descended towards the valley of another stream. There +was a somewhat rough-looking mountain ahead, which it appeared to issue +from, or to enter--we could not tell which; and as the course of the +valley and the inclination of the ground had a favorable direction, we +were sanguine to find here a branch of the Buenaventura; but were again +disappointed, finding it an inland water, on which we encamped after a +day's journey of 24 miles. It was evident that, from the time we +descended into the plain at Summer lake, we had been flanking the great +range of mountains which divided the Great Basin from the waters of the +Pacific; and that the continued succession, and almost connection, of +lakes and rivers which we encountered, were the drainings of that +range. Its rains, springs, and snows, would sufficiently account for +these lakes and streams, numerous as they were. + +24th.--A man was discovered running towards the camp as we were about +to start this morning, who proved to be an Indian of rather advanced +age--a sort of forlorn hope, who seemed to have been worked up into the +resolution of visiting the strangers who were passing through the +country. He seized the hand of the first man he met as he came up, out +of breath, and held on, as if to assure himself of protection. He +brought with him, in a little skin bag, a few pounds of the seeds of a +pine-tree, which to-day we saw for the first time, and which Dr. Torrey +has described as a new species, under the name of _pinus monophyllus_; +in popular language it might be called the _nut pine_. We purchased +them all from him. The nut is oily, of very agreeable flavor, and must +be very nutritious, as it constitutes the principal subsistence of the +tribes among which we were now traveling. By a present of scarlet +cloth, and other striking articles, we prevailed upon this man to be +our guide of two days' journey. As clearly as possible by signs, we +made him understand our object; and he engaged to conduct us in sight +of a good pass which he knew. Here we ceased to hear the Shoshonee +language--that of this man being perfectly unintelligible. Several +Indians, who had been waiting to see what reception he would meet with, +now came into camp; and, accompanied by the new-comers, we resumed our +journey. + +The road led us up the creek, which here becomes a rather rapid +mountain stream, fifty feet wide, between dark-looking hills without +snow; but immediately beyond them rose snowy mountains on either side, +timbered principally with the nut pine. On the lower grounds, the +general height of this tree is twelve to twenty feet, and eight inches +the greatest diameter; it is rather branching, and has a peculiar and +singular, but pleasant odor. We followed the river for only a short +distance along a rocky trail, and crossed it at a dam which the Indians +made us comprehend had been built to catch salmon trout. The snow and +ice were heaped up against it three or four feet deep entirely across +the stream. + +Leaving here the stream, which runs through impassable canons, we +continued our road over a very broken country, passing through a low +gap between the snowy mountains. The rock which occurs immediately in +the pass has the appearance of impure sandstone, containing scales of +black mica. This may be only a stratified lava. On issuing from the +gap, the compact lava, and other volcanic products usual in the +country, again occurred. We descended from the gap into a wide valley, +or rather basin, and encamped on a small tributary to the last stream, +on which there was very good grass. It was covered with such thick ice, +that it required some labor with pickaxes to make holes for the animals +to drink. The banks are lightly wooded with willow, and on the upper +bottoms are sage and Fremontia, with _ephedra occidentalis_, which +begins to occur more frequently. The day has been a summer one, warm +and pleasant; no snow on the trail, which, as we are all on foot, makes +traveling more agreeable. The hunters went into a neighboring mountain, +but found no game. We have five Indians in camp to-night. + +25th.--The morning was cold and bright, and as the sun rose the day +became beautiful. A party of twelve Indians came down from the +mountains to trade pine nuts, of which each one carried a little bag. +These seemed now to be the staple of the country; and whenever we met +an Indian, his friendly salutation consisted in offering a few nuts to +eat and to trade; their only arms were bows and flint-pointed arrows. +It appeared that in almost all the valleys the neighboring bands were +at war with each other; and we had some difficulty in prevailing on our +guides to accompany us on this day's journey, being at war with the +people on the other side of a large snowy mountain which lay before us. + +The general level of the country appeared to be getting higher, and we +were gradually entering the heart of the mountains. Accompanied by all +the Indians, we ascended a long ridge, and reached a pure spring at the +edge of the timber, where the Indians had waylaid and killed an +antelope, and where the greater part of them left us. Our pacific +conduct had quieted their alarms; and though at war among each other, +yet all confided in us--thanks to the combined effects of power and +kindness--for our arms inspired respect, and our little presents and +good treatment conciliated their confidence. Here we suddenly entered +snow six inches deep, and the ground was a little rocky, with volcanic +fragments, the mountain appearing to be composed of such rock. The +timber consists principally of nut pines, (_pinus monophyllus_,) which +here are of larger size--12 to 15 inches in diameter; heaps of cones +lying on the ground, where the Indians have gathered the seeds. + +The snow deepened gradually as we advanced. Our guides wore out their +moccasins; and putting one of them on a horse, we enjoyed the unusual +sight of an Indian who could not ride. He could not even guide the +animal, and appeared to have no knowledge of horses. The snow was three +or four feet deep on the summit of the, pass; and from this point the +guide pointed out our future road, declining to go any further. Below +us was a little valley; and beyond this the mountains rose higher +still, one ridge above another, presenting a rude and rocky outline. We +descended rapidly to the valley: the snow impeded us but little; yet it +was dark when we reached the foot of the mountain. + +The day had been so warm that our moccasins were wet with melting snow; +but here, as soon as the sun begins to decline, the air gets suddenly +cold, and we had great difficulty to keep our feet from freezing--our +moccasins being frozen perfectly stiff. After a hard day's march of 27 +miles, we reached the river some time after dark, and found the snow +about a foot deep on the bottom--the river being entirely frozen over. +We found a comfortable camp, where there were dry willows abundant, and +we soon had blazing fires. A little brandy, which I husbanded with +great care, remained, and I do not know any medicine more salutary, or +any drink (except coffee) more agreeable, than this in a cold night and +after a hard day's march. Mr. Preuss questioned whether the famed +nectar ever possessed so exquisite a flavor. All felt it to be a +reviving cordial. + +The next morning, when the sun had not yet risen over the mountains, +the thermometer was at 2° below zero; but the sky was bright and pure, +and the weather changed rapidly into a pleasant day of summer. I +remained encamped in order to examine the country, and allow the +animals a day of rest, the grass being good and abundant under the snow. + +The river is fifty or eighty feet wide, with a lively current, and very +clear water. It forked a little above our camp, one of its branches +coming directly from the south. At its head appeared to be a handsome +pass; and from the neighboring heights we could see, beyond, a +comparatively low and open country, which was supposed to form the +valley of the Buenaventura. The other branch issued from a nearer pass, +in a direction S. 75° W., forking at the foot of the mountain, and +receiving a part of its waters from a little lake. I was in advance of +the camp when our last guides had left us; but, so far as could be +understood, this was the pass which they had indicated, and, in company +with Carson, to-day I set out to explore it. Entering the range, we +continued in a northwesterly direction up the valley, which here bent +to the right. It was a pretty open bottom, locked between lofty +mountains, which supplied frequent streams as we advanced. On the lower +part they were covered with nut-pine trees, and above with masses of +pine, which we easily recognised, from the darker color of the foliage. +From the fresh trails which occurred frequently during the morning, +deer appeared to be remarkably numerous in the mountain. + +We had now entirely left the desert country, and were on the verge of a +region which, extending westward to the shores of the Pacific, abounds +in large game, and is covered with a singular luxuriance of vegetable +life. + +The little stream grew rapidly smaller, and in about twelve miles we +had reached its head, the last water coming immediately out of the +mountain on the right; and this spot was selected for our next +encampment. The grass showed well in sunny places; but in colder +situations the snow was deep, and began to occur in banks, through +which the horses found some difficulty in breaking a way. + +To the left, the open valley continued in a southwesterly direction, +with a scarcely perceptible ascent, forming a beautiful pass, the +exploration of which we deferred until the next day, and returned to +the camp. + +To-day an Indian passed through the valley, on his way into the +mountains, where he showed us was his lodge. We comprehended nothing of +his language; and, though he appeared to have no fear, passing along in +full view of the camp, he was indisposed to hold any communication with +us, but showed the way he was going, and pointed for us to go on our +road. + +By observation, the latitude of this encampment was 38° 18' 01", and +the elevation above the sea 6,310 feet. + +27th.--Leaving the camp to follow slowly, with directions to Carson to +encamp at the place agreed on, Mr. Fitzpatrick and myself continued the +reconnoissance. Arriving at the head of the stream, we began to enter +the pass--passing occasionally through open groves of large pine-trees, +on the warm side of the defile, where the snow had melted away, +occasionally exposing a large Indian trail. Continuing along a narrow +meadow, we reached, in a few miles, the gate of the pass, where there +was a narrow strip of prairie, about 50 yards wide, between walls of +granite rock. On either side rose the mountains, forming on the left a +rugged mass, or nucleus, wholly covered with deep snow, presenting a +glittering and icy surface. At the time, we supposed this to be the +point into which they were gathered between the two great rivers, and +from which the waters flowed off to the bay. This was the icy and cold +side of the pass, and the rays of the sun hardly touched the snow. On +the left, the mountains rose into peaks, but they were lower and +secondary, and the country had a somewhat more open and lighter +character. On the right were several hot springs, which appeared +remarkable in such a place. In going through, we felt impressed by the +majesty of the mountain, along the huge wall of which we were riding. +Here there was no snow; but immediately beyond was a deep bank, through +which we dragged our horses with considerable effort. We then +immediately struck upon a stream, which gathered itself rapidly, and +descended quick; and the valley did not preserve the open character of +the other side, appearing below to form a canon. We therefore climbed +one of the peaks on the right, leaving our horses below; but we were so +much shut up that we did not obtain an extensive view, and what we saw +was not very satisfactory, and awakened considerable doubt. The valley +of the stream pursued a northwesterly direction, appearing below to +turn sharply to the right, beyond which further view was cut off. It +was, nevertheless, resolved to continue our road the next day down this +valley, which we trusted still would prove that of the middle stream +between the two great rivers. Towards the summit of this peak, the +fields of snow were four or five feet deep on the northern side; and we +saw several large hares, which had on their winter color, being white +as the snow around them. + +The winter day is short in the mountains, the sun having but a small +space of sky to travel over in the visible part above our horizon; and +the moment his rays are gone, the air is keenly cold. The interest of +our work had detained us long, and it was after nightfall when we +reached the camp. + +28th.--To-day we went through the pass with all the camp, and, after a +hard day's journey of twelve miles, encamped on a high point where the +snow had been blown off, and the exposed grass afforded a scanty +pasture for the animals. Snow and broken country together made our +traveling difficult; we were often compelled to make large circuits, +and ascend the highest and most exposed ridges, in order to avoid snow, +which in other places was banked up to a great depth. + +During the day a few Indians were seen circling around us on +snow-shoes, and skimming along like birds; but we could not bring them +within speaking distance. Godey, who was a little distance from the +camp, had sat down to tie his moccasins, when he heard a low whistle +near, and, looking up, saw two Indians half hiding behind a rock about +forty yards distant; they would not allow him to approach, but breaking +into a laugh, skimmed off over the snow, seeming to have no idea of the +power of firearms, and thinking themselves perfectly safe when beyond +arm's length. + +To-night we did not succeed in getting the howitzer into camp. This was +the most laborious day we had yet passed through, the steep ascents and +deep snow exhausting both men and animals. Our single chronometer had +stopped during the day, and its error in time occasioned the loss of an +eclipse of a satellite this evening. It had not preserved the rate with +which we started from the Dalles, and this will account for the absence +of longitudes along this interval of our journey. + +29th.--From this height we could see, at a considerable distance below, +yellow spots in the valley, which indicated that there was not much +snow. One of these places we expected to reach to-night; and some time +being required to bring up the gun, I went ahead with Mr. Fitzpatrick +and a few men, leaving the camp to follow, in charge of Mr. Preuss. We +followed a trail down a hollow where the Indians had descended, the +snow being so deep that we never came near the ground; but this only +made our descent the easier, and, when we reached a little affluent to +the river, at the bottom, we suddenly found ourselves in presence of +eight or ten Indians. They seemed to be watching our motions, and, like +the others, at first were indisposed to let us approach, ranging +themselves like birds on a fallen log, on the hill-side above our +heads, where, being out of our reach, they thought themselves safe. Our +friendly demeanor reconciled them, and, when we got near enough, they +immediately stretched out to us handfuls of pine-nuts, which seemed an +exercise of hospitality. We made them a few presents, and, telling us +that their village was a few miles below, they went on to let their +people know what we were. The principal stream still running through an +impracticable canon, we ascended a very steep hill, which proved +afterwards the last and fatal obstacle to our little howitzer, which +was finally abandoned at this place. We passed through a small meadow a +few miles below, crossing the river, which depth, swift current, and +rock, made it difficult to ford; and, after a few more miles of very +difficult trail, issued into a larger prairie bottom, at the farther +end of which we encamped, in a position rendered strong by rocks and +trees. The lower parts of the mountain were covered with the nut-pine. +Several Indians appeared on the hill-side, reconnoitring the camp, and +were induced to come in; others came in during the afternoon; and in +the evening we held a council. The Indians immediately made it clear +that the waters on which we were also belonged to the Great Basin, in +the edge of which we had been since the 17th of December; and it became +evident that we had still the great ridge on the left to cross before +we could reach the Pacific waters. + +We explained to the Indians that we were endeavoring to find a passage +across the mountains into the country of the whites, whom we were going +to see; and told them that we wished them to bring us a guide, to whom +we would give presents of scarlet cloth, and other articles, which were +shown to them. They looked at the reward we offered, and conferred with +each other, but pointed to the snow on the mountain, and drew their +hands across their necks, and raised them above their heads, to show +the depth; and signified that it was impossible for us to get through. +They made signs that we must go to the southward, over a pass through a +lower range, which they pointed out: there, they said, at the end of +one day's travel, we would find people who lived near a pass in the +great mountain; and to that point they engaged to furnish us a guide. +They appeared to have a confused idea, from report, of whites who lived +on the other side of the mountain; and once, they told us, about two +years ago, a party of twelve men like ourselves had ascended their +river, and crossed to the other waters. They pointed out to us where +they had crossed; but then, they said, it was summer time; but now it +would be impossible. I believe that this was a party led by Mr. Chiles, +one of the only two men whom I know to have passed through the +California mountains from the interior of the Basin--Walker being the +other; and both were engaged upwards of twenty days, in the summer +time, in getting over. Chiles's destination was the bay of San +Francisco, to which he descended by the Stanislaus river; and Walker +subsequently informed me that, like myself, descending to the southward +on a more eastern line, day after day he was searching for the +Buenaventura, thinking that he had found it with every new stream, +until, like me, he abandoned all idea of its existence, and, turning +abruptly to the right, crossed the great chain. These were both western +men, animated with the spirit of exploratory enterprise which +characterizes that people. + +The Indians brought in during the evening an abundant supply of +pine-nuts, which we traded from them. When roasted, their pleasant +flavor made them an agreeable addition to our now scanty store of +provisions, which were reduced to a very low ebb. Our principal stock +was in peas, which it is not necessary to say contain scarcely any +nutriment. We had still a little flour left, some coffee, and a +quantity of sugar, which I reserved as a defence against starvation. + +The Indians informed us that at certain seasons they have fish in their +waters, which we supposed to be salmon-trout: for the remainder of the +year they live upon the pine-nuts, which form their great winter +subsistence--a portion being always at hand, shut up in the natural +storehouse of the cones. At present, they were presented to us as a +whole people living upon this simple vegetable. + +The other division of the party did not come in to-night, but encamped +in the upper meadow, and arrived the next morning. They had not +succeeded in getting the howitzer beyond the place mentioned, and where +it had been left by Mr. Preuss, in obedience to my orders; and, in +anticipation of the snow-banks and snow-fields still ahead, foreseeing +the inevitable detention to which it would subject us, I reluctantly +determined to leave it there for the time. It was of the kind invented +by the French for the mountain part of their war in Algiers; and the +distance it had come with us proved how well it was adapted to its +purpose. We left it, to the great sorrow of the whole party, who were +grieved to part with a companion which had made the whole distance from +St. Louis, and commanded respect for us on some critical occasions, and +which might be needed for the same purpose again. + +30th.--Our guide, who was a young man, joined us this morning; and, +leaving our encampment late in the day, we descended the river, which +immediately opened out into a broad valley, furnishing good traveling +ground. In a short distance we passed the village, a collection of +straw huts; and a few miles below, the guide pointed out the place +where the whites had been encamped, before they entered the mountain. +With our late start we made but ten miles, and encamped on the low +river-bottom, where there was no snow, but a great deal of ice; and we +cut piles of long grass to lay under our blankets, and fires were made +of large dry willows, groves of which wooded the stream. The river took +here a northeasterly direction, and through a spur from the mountains +on the left was the gap where we were to pass the next day. + +31st.--We took our way over a gently rising ground, the dividing ridge +being tolerably low; and traveling easily along a broad trail, in +twelve or fourteen miles reached the upper part of the pass, when it +began to snow thickly, with very cold weather. The Indians had only the +usual scanty covering, and appeared to suffer greatly from the cold. +All left us, except our guide. Half hidden by the storm, the mountains +looked dreary; and, as night began to approach, the guide showed great +reluctance to go forward. I placed him between two rifles, for the way +began to be difficult. Traveling a little farther, we struck a ravine, +which the Indian said would conduct us to the river; and as the poor +fellow suffered greatly, shivering in the snow which fell upon his +naked skin, I would not detain him any longer; and he ran off to the +mountain, where he said was a hut near by. He had kept the blue and +scarlet cloth I had given him tightly rolled up, preferring rather to +endure the cold than to get them wet. In the course of the afternoon, +one of the men had his foot frostbitten; and about dark we had the +satisfaction to reach the bottoms of a stream timbered with large +trees, among which we found a sheltered camp, with an abundance of such +grass as the season afforded for the animals. We saw before us, in +descending from the pass, a great continuous range, along which +stretched the valley of the river; the lower parts steep, and dark with +pines, while above it was hidden in clouds of snow. This we felt +instantly satisfied was the central ridge of the Sierra Nevada, the +great California mountain, which only now intervened between us and the +waters of the bay. We had made a forced march of 26 miles, and three +mules had given out on the road. Up to this point, with the exception +of two stolen by Indians, we had lost none of the horses which had been +brought from the Columbia river, and a number of these were still +strong and in tolerably good order. We had now 67 animals in the band. + +We had scarcely lighted our fires, when the camp was crowded with +nearly naked Indians; some of them were furnished with long nets in +addition to bows, and appeared to have been out on the sage hills to +hunt rabbits. These nets were perhaps 30 to 40 feet long, kept upright +in the ground by slight sticks at intervals, and were made from a kind +of wild hemp, very much resembling in manufacture those common among +the Indians of the Sacramento valley. They came among us without any +fear, and scattered themselves about the fires, mainly occupied in +gratifying their astonishment. I was struck by the singular appearance +of a row of about a dozen, who were sitting on their haunches perched +on a log near one of the fires, with their quick sharp eyes following +every motion. + +We gathered together a few of the most intelligent of the Indians, and +held this evening an interesting council. I explained to them my +intentions. I told them that we had come from a very far country, +having been traveling now nearly a year, and that we were desirous +simply to go across the mountain into the country of the other whites. +There were two who appeared particularly intelligent--one, a somewhat +old man. He told me that, before the snows fell, it was six sleeps to +the place where the whites lived, but that now it was impossible to +cross the mountain on account of the deep snow; and showing us, as the +others had done, that it was over our heads, he urged us strongly to +follow the course of the river, which he said would conduct us to a +lake in which there were many large fish. There, he said, were many +people; there was no snow on the ground; and we might remain there +until the spring. From their descriptions, we were enabled to judge +that we had encamped on the upper water of the Salmon Trout river. It +is hardly necessary to say that our communication was only by signs, as +we understood nothing of their language; but they spoke, +notwithstanding, rapidly and vehemently, explaining what they +considered the folly of our intentions, and urging us to go down to the +lake. _Tah-ve_, a word signifying snow, we very soon learned to know, +from its frequent repetition. I told him that the men and the horses +were strong, that we would break a road through the snow; and spreading +before him our bales of scarlet cloth, and trinkets, showed him what we +would give for a guide. It was necessary to obtain one, if possible; +for I had determined here to attempt the passage of the mountain. +Pulling a bunch of grass from the ground, after a short discussion +among themselves, the old man made us comprehend, that if we could +break through the snow, at the end of three days we would come down +upon grass, which he showed us would be about six inches high, and +where, the ground was entirely free. So far, he said, he had been in +hunting for elk; but beyond that (and he closed his eyes) he had seen +nothing; but there was one among them who had been to the whites, and, +going out of the lodge, he returned with a young man of very +intelligent appearance. Here, said he, is a young man who has seen the +whites with his own eyes; and he swore, first by the sky, and then by +the ground, that what he said was true. With a large present of goods, +we prevailed upon this young man to be our guide, and he acquired among +us the name of Melo--a word signifying friend, which they used very +frequently. He was thinly clad, and nearly barefoot; his moccasins +being about worn out. We gave him skins to make a new pair, and to +enable him to perform his undertaking to us. The Indians remained in +the camp during the night, and we kept the guide and two others to +sleep in the lodge with us--Carson lying across the door, and having +made them comprehend the use of our fire arms. + + + +FEBRUARY. + + +1st.--The snow, which had intermitted in the evening, commenced falling +again in the course of the night; and it snowed steadily all day. In +the morning I acquainted the men with my decision, and explained to +them that necessity required us to make a great effort to clear the +mountains. I reminded them of the beautiful valley of the Sacramento, +with which they were familiar from the descriptions of Carson, who had +been there some fifteen years ago, and who, in our late privations, had +delighted us in speaking of its rich pastures and abounding game, and +drew a vivid contrast between its summer climate, less than a hundred +miles distant, and the falling snow around us. I informed them (and +long experience had given them confidence in my observations and good +instruments) that almost directly west, and only about 70 miles +distant, was the great farming establishment of Captain Sutter--a +gentleman who had formerly lived in Missouri, and, emigrating to this +country, had become the possessor of a principality. I assured them +that, from the heights of the mountain before us, we should doubtless +see the valley of the Sacramento river, and with one effort place +ourselves again in the midst of plenty. The people received this +decision with the cheerful obedience which had always characterized +them, and the day was immediately devoted to the preparations necessary +to enable us to carry it into effect. Leggins, moccasins, clothing--all +were put into the best state to resist the cold. Our guide was not +neglected. Extremity of suffering might make him desert; we therefore +did the best we could for him. Leggins, moccasins, some articles of +clothing, and a large green blanket, in addition to the blue and +scarlet cloth, were lavished upon him, and to his great and evident +contentment. He arrayed himself in all his colors, and, clad in green, +blue, and scarlet, he made a gay-looking Indian; and, with his various +presents, was probably richer and better clothed than any of his tribe +had ever been before. + +I have already said that our provisions were very low; we had neither +tallow nor grease of any kind remaining, and the want of salt became +one of our greatest privations. The poor dog which had been found in +the Bear River valley, and which had been a _compagnon de voyage_ ever +since, had now become fat, and the mess to which it belonged, requested +permission to kill it. Leave was granted. Spread out on the snow, the +meat looked very good; and it made a strengthening meal for the greater +part of the camp. Indians brought in two or three rabbits during the +day, which were purchased from them. + +The river was 40 to 70 feet wide, and now entirely frozen over. It was +wooded with large cottonwood, willow, and _grain de boeuf_. By +observation, the latitude of this encampment was 38° 37' 18". + +2d.--It had ceased snowing, and this morning the lower air was clear +and frosty; and six or seven thousand feet above, the peaks of the +Sierra now and then appeared among the rolling clouds, which were +rapidly dispersing before the sun. Our Indian shook his head as he +pointed to the icy pinnacles, shooting high up into the sky, and +seeming almost immediately above us. Crossing the river on the ice, and +leaving it immediately, we commenced the ascent of the mountain along +the valley of a tributary stream. The people were unusually silent, for +every man knew that our enterprise was hazardous; and the issue +doubtful. + +The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon became necessary to break a +road. For this service, a party of ten was formed, mounted on the +strongest horses, each man in succession opening the road on foot, or +on horseback, until himself and his horse became fatigued, when he +stepped aside, and, the remaining number passing ahead, he took his +station in the rear. Leaving this stream, and pursuing a very direct +course, we passed over an intervening ridge to the river we had left. +On the way we passed two low huts entirely covered with snow, which +might very easily have escaped observation. A family was living in +each; and the only trail I saw in the neighborhood was from the +door-hole to a nut-pine tree near, which supplied them with food and +fuel. We found two similar huts on the creek where we next arrived; +and, traveling a little higher up, encamped on its banks in about four +feet depth of snow. Carson found near, an open hill-side, where the +wind and the sun had melted the snow, leaving exposed sufficient +bunch-grass for the animals to-night. + +The nut-pines were now giving way to heavy timber, and there were some +immense pines on the bottom, around the roots of which the sun had +melted away the snow; and here we made our camp and built huge fires. +To-day we had traveled 16 miles, and our elevation above the sea was +6,760 feet. + +3d.--Turning our faces directly towards the main chain, we ascended an +open hollow along a small tributary to the river, which, according to +the Indians, issues from a mountain to the south. The snow was so deep +in the hollow, that we were obliged to travel along the steep +hill-sides, and over spurs, where the wind and sun had in places +lessened the snow, and where the grass, which appeared to be in good +quality along the sides of the mountains, was exposed. We opened our +road in the same way as yesterday, but made only seven miles, and +encamped by some springs at the foot of a high and steep hill, by which +the hollow ascended to another basin in the mountain. The little stream +below was entirely buried in snow. The springs were shaded by the +boughs of a lofty cedar, which here made its first appearance; the +usual height was 120 to 130 feet, and one that was measured near by was +six feet in diameter. + +There being no grass exposed here, the horses were sent back to that +which we had seen a few miles below. We occupied the remainder of the +day in beating down a road to the foot of the hill, a mile or two +distant; the snow being beaten down when moist, in the warm part of the +day, and then hard frozen at night, made a foundation that would bear +the weight of the animals next morning. During the day several Indians +joined us on snow-shoes. These were made of a circular hoop, about a +foot in diameter, the interior space being filled with an open network +of bark. + +4th.--I went ahead early with two or three men, each with a led horse +to break the road. We were obliged to abandon the hollow entirely, and +work along the mountain-side, which was very steep, and the snow +covered with an icy crust. We cut a footing as we advanced, and +trampled a road through for the animals; but occasionally one plunged +outside the trail, and slided along the field to the bottom, a hundred +yards below. Late in the day we reached another bench in the hollow, +where, in summer, the stream passed over a small precipice. Here was a +short distance of dividing ground between the two ridges, and beyond an +open basin, some ten miles across, whose bottom presented a field of +snow. At the further or western side rose the middle crest of the +mountain, a dark-looking ridge of volcanic rock. + +The summit line presented a range of naked peaks, apparently destitute +of snow and vegetation; but below, the face of the whole country was +covered with timber of extraordinary size. + +Towards a pass which the guide indicated here, we attempted in the +afternoon to force a road; but after a laborious plunging through two +or three hundred yards, our best horses gave out, entirely refusing to +make any further effort, and, for the time, we were brought to a stand. +The guide informed us that we were entering the deep snow, and here +began the difficulties of the mountain; and to him, and almost to all, +our enterprise seemed hopeless. I returned a short distance back, to +the break in the hollow, where I met Mr. Fitzpatrick. + +The camp had been occupied all the day in endeavoring to ascend the +hill, but only the best horses had succeeded; the animals, generally, +not having sufficient strength to bring themselves up without the +packs; and all the line of road between this and the springs was +strewed with camp-stores and equipage, and horses floundering in snow. +I therefore immediately encamped on the ground with my own mess, which +was in advance, and directed Mr. Fitzpatrick to encamp at the springs, +and send all the animals, in charge of Tabeau, with a strong guard, +back to the place where they had been pastured the night before. Here +was a small spot of level ground, protected on one side by the +mountain, and on the other sheltered by a little ridge of rock. It was +an open grove of pines, which assimilated in size to the grandeur of +the mountain, being frequently six feet in diameter. + +To-night we had no shelter, but we made a large fire around the trunk +of one of the huge pines; and covering the snow with small boughs, on +which we spread our blankets, soon made ourselves comfortable. The +night was very bright and clear, though the thermometer was only at +10°. A strong wind, which sprang up at sundown, made it intensely cold; +and this was one of the bitterest nights during the journey. + +Two Indians joined our party here; and one of them, an old man, +immediately began to harangue us, saying that ourselves and animals +would perish in the snow; and that if we would go back, he would show +us another and a better way across the mountain. He spoke in a very +loud voice, and there was a singular repetition of phrases and +arrangement of words, which rendered his speech striking and not +unmusical. + +We had now begun to understand some words, and, with the aid of signs, +easily comprehended the old man's simple ideas. "Rock upon rock--rock +upon rock--snow upon snow," said he; "even if you get over the snow, +you will not be able to get down from the mountains." He made us the +sign of precipices, and showed us how the feet of the horses would +slip, and throw them off from the narrow trails that led along their +sides. Our Chinook, who comprehended even more readily than ourselves, +and believed our situation hopeless, covered his head with his blanket, +and began to weep and lament. "I wanted to see the whites," said he; "I +came away from my own people to see the whites, and I wouldn't care to +die among them, but here"--and he looked around into the cold night and +gloomy forest, and, drawing his blanket over his head, began again to +lament. + +Seated around the tree, the fire illuminating the rocks and the tall +bolls of the pines round about, and the old Indian haranguing, we +presented a group of very serious faces. + +5th.--The night had been too cold to sleep, and we were up very early. +Our guide was standing by the fire with all his finery on; and seeing +him shiver in the cold, I threw on his shoulders one of my blankets. We +missed him a few minutes afterwards, and never saw him again. He had +deserted. His bad faith and treachery were in perfect keeping with the +estimate of Indian character, which a long intercourse with this people +had gradually forced upon my mind. + +While a portion of the camp were occupied in bringing up the baggage to +this point, the remainder were busied in making sledges and snow-shoes. +I had determined to explore the mountain ahead, and the sledges were to +be used in transporting the baggage. + +The mountains here consisted wholly of a white micaceous granite. The +day was perfectly clear, and, while the sun was in the sky, warm and +pleasant. + +By observation our latitude was 38° 42' 26"; and elevation by the +boiling point, 7,400 feet. + +6th.--Accompanied by Mr. Fitzpatrick, I set out to-day with a +reconnoitring party on snow-shoes. We marched all in single file, +trampling the snow as heavily as we could. Crossing the open basin, in +a march of about ten miles we reached the top of one of the peaks, to +the left of the pass indicated by our guide. Far below us, dimmed by +the distance, was a large snowless valley, bounded on the western side, +at the distance of about a hundred miles, by a low range of mountains, +which Carson recognised with delight as the mountains bordering the +coast. "There," said he, "is the little mountain--it is fifteen years +since I saw it; but I am just as sure as if I had seen it yesterday." +Between us, then, and this low coast range was the valley of the +Sacramento; and no one who had not accompanied us through the incidents +of our life for the last few months could realize the delight with +which at last we looked down upon it. At the distance of apparently 30 +miles beyond us were distinguished spots of prairie; and a dark line +which could be traced with the glass, was imagined to be the course of +the river; but we were evidently at a great height above the valley, +and between us and the plains extended miles of snowy fields and broken +ridges of pine-covered mountains. + +It was late in the day when we turned towards the camp; and it grew +rapidly cold as it drew towards night. One of the men became fatigued, +and his feet began to freeze, and building a fire in the trunk of a dry +old cedar, Mr. Fitzpatrick remained with him until his clothes could be +dried, and he was in a condition to come on. After a day's march of 20 +miles, we straggled into the camp one after another, at nightfall; the +greater number excessively fatigued, only two of the party having ever +traveled on snow-shoes before. + +All our energies are now directed to getting our animals across the +snow; and it was supposed that after all the baggage had been drawn +with the sleighs over the trail we had made, it would be sufficiently +hard to bear our animals. At several places between this point and the +ridge, we had discovered some grassy spots, where the wind and sun had +dispersed the snow from the sides of the hills, and these were to form +resting-places to support the animals for a night in their passage +across. On our way across we had set on fire several broken stumps, and +dried trees, to melt holes in the snow for the camps. Its general depth +was five feet; but we passed over places where it was 20 feet deep, as +shown by the trees. With one party drawing sleighs loaded with baggage, +I advanced to-day about four miles along the trail, and encamped at the +first grassy spot, where we expected to bring our horses. Mr. +Fitzpatrick, with another party, remained behind, to form an +intermediate station between us and the animals. + +8th.--The night has been extremely cold; but perfectly still, and +beautifully clear. Before the sun appeared this morning, the +thermometer was 3° below zero; 1° higher, when his rays struck the +lofty peaks; and 0° when they reached our camp. + +Scenery and weather, combined, must render these mountains beautiful in +summer; the purity and deep-blue color of the sky are singularly +beautiful; the days are sunny and bright, and even warm in the noon +hours; and if we could be free from the many anxieties that oppress us, +even now we would be delighted here; but our provisions are getting +fearfully scant. Sleighs arrived with baggage about ten o'clock; and +leaving a portion of it here, we continued on for a mile and a half, +and encamped at the foot of a long hill on this side of the open bottom. + +Bernier and Godey, who yesterday morning had been sent to ascend a +higher peak, got in, hungry and fatigued. They confirmed what we had +already seen. Two other sleighs arrived in the afternoon; and the men +being fatigued, I gave them all tea and sugar. Snow clouds began to +rise in the S.S.W.; and, apprehensive of a storm, which would destroy +our road, I sent the people back to Mr. Fitzpatrick, with directions to +send for the animals in the morning. With me remained Mr. Preuss, Mr. +Talbot, and Carson, with Jacob. + +Elevation of the camp, by the boiling point, is 7,920 feet. + +9th.--During the night the weather changed, the wind rising to a gale, +and commencing to snow before daylight; before morning the trail was +covered. We remained quiet in camp all day, in the course of which the +weather improved. Four sleighs arrived towards evening, with the +bedding of the men. We suffer much from the want of salt; and all the +men are becoming weak from insufficient food. + +10th.--Taplin was sent back with a few men to assist Mr. Fitzpatrick; +and continuing on with three sleighs carrying a part of the baggage, we +had the satisfaction to encamp within two and a half miles of the head +of the hollow, and at the foot of the last mountain ridge. Here two +large trees had been set on fire, and in the holes, where the snow had +been melted away, we found a comfortable camp. + +The wind kept the air filled with snow during the day; the sky was very +dark in the southwest, though elsewhere very clear. The forest here has +a noble appearance; and tall cedar is abundant; its greatest height +being 130 feet, and circumference 20, three or four feet above the +ground; and here I see for the first time the white pine, of which +there are some magnificent trees. Hemlock spruce is among the timber, +occasionally as large as eight feet in diameter, four feet above the +ground; but, in ascending, it tapers rapidly to less than one foot at +the height of eighty feet. I have not seen any higher than 130 feet, +and the slight upper part is frequently broken off by the wind. The +white spruce is frequent; and the red pine (_pinus colorado_ of the +Mexicans) which constitutes the beautiful forest along the banks of the +Sierra Nevada to the northward, is here the principal tree, not +attaining a greater height than 140 feet, though with sometimes a +diameter of 10. Most of these trees appeared to differ slightly from +those of the same kind on the other side of the continent. + +The elevation of the camp by the boiling point, is 8,050 feet. We are +now 1,000 feet above the level of the South Pass in the Rocky +mountains; and still we are not done ascending. The top of a flat ridge +near was bare of snow, and very well sprinkled with bunch-grass, +sufficient to pasture the animals two or three days; and this was to be +their main point of support. This ridge is composed of a compact trap, +or basalt of a columnar structure; over the surface are scattered large +boulders of porous trap. The hills are in many places entirely covered +with small fragments of volcanic rock. + +Putting on our snow-shoes, we spent the afternoon in exploring a road +ahead. The glare of the snow, combined with great fatigue, had rendered +many of the people nearly blind; but we were fortunate in having some +black silk handkerchiefs, which, worn as veils, very much relieved the +eye. + +11th.--High wind continued, and our trail this morning was nearly +invisible--here and there indicated by a little ridge of snow. Our +situation became tiresome and dreary, requiring a strong exercise of +patience and resolution. + +In the evening I received a message from Mr. Fitzpatrick, acquainting +me with the utter failure of his attempt to get our mules and horses +over the snow--the half-hidden trail had proved entirely too slight to +support them, and they had broken through, and were plunging about or +lying half buried in snow. He was occupied in endeavoring to get them +back to his camp; and in the mean time sent to me for further +instructions. I wrote to him to send the animals immediately back to +their old pastures; and, after having made mauls and shovels, turn in +all the strength of his party to open and beat a road through the snow, +strengthening it with branches and boughs of the pines. + +12th.--We made mauls, and worked hard at our end of the road all day. +The wind was high, but the sun bright, and the snow thawing. We worked +down the face of the hill, to meet the people at the other end. Towards +sundown it began to grow cold, and we shouldered our mauls and trudged +back to camp. + +13th.--We continued to labor on the road; and in the course of the day +had the satisfaction to see the people working down the face of the +opposite hill, about three miles distant. During the morning we had the +pleasure of a visit from Mr. Fitzpatrick, with the information that all +was going on well. A party of Indians had passed on snow-shoes, who +said they were going to the western side of the mountain after fish. +This was an indication that the salmon were coming up the streams; and +we could hardly restrain our impatience as we thought of them, and +worked with increased vigor. + +The meat train did not arrive this evening, and I gave Godey leave to +kill our little dog, (Tlamath,) which he prepared in Indian fashion; +scorching off the hair, and washing the skin with soap and snow, and +then cutting it up into pieces, which were laid on the snow. Shortly +afterwards, the sleigh arrived with a supply of horse-meat; and we had +to-night an extraordinary dinner--pea-soup, mule, and dog. + +14th.--The dividing ridge of the Sierra is in sight from this +encampment. Accompanied by Mr. Preuss, I ascended to-day the highest +peak to the right; from which we had a beautiful view of a mountain +lake at our feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so entirely +surrounded by mountains that we could not discover an outlet. We had +taken with us a glass; but though we enjoyed an extended view, the +valley was half hidden in mist, as when we had seen it before. Snow +could be distinguished on the higher parts of the coast mountains; +eastward, as far as the eye could extend, it ranged over a terrible +mass of broken snowy mountains, fading off blue in the distance. The +rock composing the summit consists of a very coarse, dark, volcanic +conglomerate; the lower parts appeared to be of a slaty structure. The +highest trees were a few scattering cedars and aspens. From the +immediate foot of the peak, we were two hours reaching the summit, and +one hour and a quarter in descending. The day had been very bright, +still, and clear, and spring seems to be advancing rapidly. While the +sun is in the sky, the snow melts rapidly, and gushing springs cover +the face of the mountain in all the exposed places; but their surface +freezes instantly with the disappearance of the sun. + +I obtained to-night some observations; and the result from these, and +others made during our stay, gives for the latitude 38° 41' 57", +longitude 120° 25' 57", and rate of the chronometer 25.82". + +16th.--We had succeeded in getting our animals safely to the first +grassy hill; and this morning I started with Jacob on a reconnoitring +expedition beyond the mountain. We traveled along the crests of narrow +ridges, extending down from the mountain in the direction of the +valley, from which the snow was fast melting away. On the open spots +was tolerably good grass; and I judged we should succeed in getting the +camp down by way of these. Towards sundown we discovered some icy spots +in a deep hollow; and, descending the mountain, we encamped on the +head-water of a little creek, where at last the water found its way to +the Pacific. + +The night was clear and very long. We heard the cries of some wild +animals, which had been attracted by our fire, and a flock of geese +passed over during the night. Even these strange sounds had something +pleasant to our senses in this region of silence and desolation. + +We started again early in the morning. The creek acquired a regular +breadth of about 20 feet, and we soon began to hear the rushing of the +water below the icy surface, over which we traveled to avoid the snow; +a few miles below we broke through, where the water was several feet +deep, and halted to make a fire and dry our clothes. We continued a few +miles farther, walking being very laborious without snow-shoes. + +I was now perfectly satisfied that we had struck the stream on which +Mr. Sutler lived; and, turning about, made a hard push, and reached the +camp at dark. Here we had the pleasure to find all the remaining +animals, 57 in number, safely arrived at the grassy hill near the camp; +and here, also, we were agreeably surprised with the sight of an +abundance of salt. Some of the horse-guard had gone to a neighboring +hut for pine nuts, and discovered unexpectedly a large cake of very +white fine-grained salt, which the Indians told them they had brought +from the other side of the mountain; they used it to eat with their +pine nuts, and readily sold it for goods. + +On the 19th, the people were occupied in making a road and bringing up +the baggage; and, on the afternoon of the next day, _February_ 20, +1844, we encamped, with the animals and all the _materiel_ of the camp, +on the summit of the PASS in the dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by our +traveled road from the Dalles to the Columbia. + +The people, who had not yet been to this point, climbed the neighboring +peak to enjoy a look at the valley. + +The temperature of boiling water gave for the elevation of the +encampment, 9,338 feet above the sea. + +This was 2,000 feet higher than the South Pass in the Rocky mountains, +and several peaks in view rose several thousand feet still higher. +Thus, at the extremity of the continent, and near the coast, the +phenomenon was seen of a range of mountains still higher than the great +Rocky mountains themselves. This extraordinary fact accounts for the +Great Basin, and shows that there must be a system of small lakes and +rivers here scattered over a flat country, and which the extended and +lofty range of the Sierra Nevada prevents from escaping to the Pacific +ocean. Latitude 38° 44'; longitude 120° 28'. + +Thus the Pass in the Sierra Nevada, which so well deserves its name of +Snowy mountain, is eleven degrees west and about four degrees south of +the South Pass. + +21st.--We now considered ourselves victorious over the mountain; having +only the descent before us, and the valley under our eyes, we felt +strong hope that we should force our way down. But this was a case in +which the descent was _not_ facile. Still deep fields of snow lay +between them, and there was a large intervening space of rough-looking +mountains, through which we had yet to wind our way. Carson roused me +this morning with an early fire, and we were all up long before day, in +order to pass the snow-fields before the sun should render the crust +soft. We enjoyed this morning a scene at sunrise, which even here was +unusually glorious and beautiful. Immediately above the eastern +mountains was repeated a cloud-formed mass of purple ranges, bordered +with bright yellow gold; the peaks shot up into a narrow line of +crimson cloud, above which the air was filled with a greenish orange; +and over all was the singular beauty of the blue sky. Passing along a +ridge which commanded the lake on our right, of which we began to +discover an outlet through a chasm on the west, we passed over +alternating open ground and hard-crusted snow-fields which supported +the animals, and encamped on the ridge, after a journey of six miles. +The grass was better than we had yet seen, and we were encamped in a +clump of trees 20 or 30 feet high, resembling white pine. With the +exception of these small clumps, the ridges were bare; and, where the +snow found the support of the trees, the wind had blown it up into +banks 10 or 15 feet high. It required much care to hunt out a +practicable way, as the most open places frequently led to impassable +banks. + +We had hard and doubtful labor yet before us, as the snow appeared to +be heavier where the timber began further down, with few open spots. +Ascending a height, we traced out the best line we could discover for +the next day's march, and had at least the consolation to see that the +mountain descended rapidly. The day had been one of April--gusty, with +a few occasional flakes of snow--which, in the afternoon, enveloped the +upper mountain in clouds. We watched them anxiously, as now we dreaded +a snow-storm. Shortly afterwards we heard the roll of thunder, and, +looking towards the valley, found it enveloped in a thunder-storm. For +us, as connected with the idea of summer, it had a singular charm, and +we watched its progress with excited feelings until nearly sunset, when +the sky cleared off brightly, and we saw a shining line of water +directing its course towards another, a broader and larger sheet. We +knew that these could be no other than the Sacramento and the Bay of +San Francisco; but, after our long wandering in rugged mountains, where +so frequently we had met with disappointments, and where the crossing +of every ridge displayed some unknown lake or river, we were yet almost +afraid to believe that we were at last to escape into the genial +country of which we had heard so many glowing descriptions, and dreaded +to find some vast interior lake, whose bitter waters would bring us +disappointment. On the southern shore of what appeared to be the bay +could be traced the gleaming line where entered another large stream; +and again the Buenaventura rose up in our minds. + +Carson had entered the valley along the southern side of the bay, and +remembered perfectly to have crossed the mouth of a very large stream, +which they had been obliged to raft; but the country then was so +entirely covered with water from snow and rain, that he had been able +to form no correct impressions of water-courses. + +We had the satisfaction to know that at least there were people below. +Fires were lit up in the valley just at night, appearing to be in +answer to ours; and these signs of life renewed, in some measure, the +gayety of the camp. They appeared so near, that we judged them to be +among the timber of some of the neighboring ridges; but, having them +constantly in view day after day, and night after night, we afterwards +found them to be fires that had been kindled by the Indians among the +_tulares_, on the shore of the bay, 80 miles distant. + +Among the very few plants that appeared here, was the common blue flax. +To-night a mule was killed for food. + +22d.--Our breakfast was over long before day. We took advantage of the +coolness of the early morning to get over the snow, which to-day +occurred in very deep banks among the timber; but we searched out the +coldest places, and the animals passed successfully with their loads +over the hard crust. Now and then the delay of making a road occasioned +much labor and loss of time. In the after part of the day, we saw +before us a handsome grassy ridge point; and, making a desperate push +over a snow-field 10 to 15 feet deep, we happily succeeded in getting +the camp across, and encamped on the ridge, after a march of three +miles. We had again the prospect of a thunder-storm below, and to-night +we killed another mule--now our only resource from starvation. + +We satisfied ourselves during the day that the lake had an outlet +between two ranges on the right; and with this, the creek on which I +had encamped probably effected a junction below. Between these, we were +descending. + +We continued to enjoy the same delightful weather; the sky of the same +beautiful blue, and such a sunset and sunrise as on our Atlantic coast +we could scarcely imagine. And here among the mountains, 9,000 feet +above the sea, we have the deep-blue sky and sunny climate of Smyrna +and Palermo, which a little map before me shows are in the same +latitude. + +The elevation above the sea, by the boiling point, is 8,565 feet. + +23d.--This was our most difficult day; we were forced off the ridges by +the quantity of snow among the timber, and obliged to take to the +mountain sides, where occasionally rocks and a southern exposure +afforded us a chance to scramble along. But these were steep, and +slippery with snow and ice; and the tough evergreens of the mountain +impeded our way, tore our skins, and exhausted our patience. Some of us +had the misfortune to wear moccasins with _parflèche_ soles, so +slippery that we could not keep our feet, and generally crawled across +the snow-beds. Axes and mauls were necessary to-day, to make a road +through the snow. Going ahead with Carson to reconnoitre the road, we +reached in the afternoon the river which made the outlet of the lake. +Carson sprang over, clear across a place where the stream was +compressed among rocks, but the _parflèche_ sole of my moccasin glanced +from the icy rock, and precipitated me into the river. It was some few +seconds before I could recover myself in the current, and Carson, +thinking me hurt, jumped in after me, and we both had an icy bath. We +tried to search awhile for my gun, which had been lost in the fall, but +the cold drove us out; and making a large fire on the bank, after we +had partially dried ourselves we went back to meet the camp. We +afterwards found that the gun had been slung under the ice which lined +the banks of the creek. + +Using our old plan of breaking roads with alternate horses, we reached +the creek in the evening, and encamped on a dry open place in the +ravine. + +Another branch, which we had followed, here comes in on the left; and +from this point the mountain wall, on which we had traveled to-day, +faces to the south along the right bank of the river, where the sun +appears to have melted the snow; but the opposite ridge is entirely +covered. Here, among the pines, the hill-side produces but little +grass--barely sufficient to keep life in the animals. We had the +pleasure to be rained upon this afternoon; and grass was now our +greatest solicitude. Many of the men looked badly; and some this +evening were giving out. + +24th.--We rose at three in the morning for an astronomical observation, +and obtained for the place a lat. of 38° 46' 58"; long. 120° 34' 20". +The sky was clear and pure, with a sharp wind from the northeast, and +the thermometer 2° below the freezing point. + +We continued down the south face of the mountain; our road leading over +dry ground, we were able to avoid the snow almost entirely. In the +course of the morning, we struck a footpath, which we were generally +able to keep; and the ground was soft to our animals' feet, being +sandy, or covered with mould. Green grass began to make its appearance, +and occasionally we passed a hill scatteringly covered with it. The +character of the forest continued the same; and, among the trees, the +pine with sharp leaves and very large cones was abundant, some of them +being noble trees. We measured one that had 10 feet diameter, though +the height was not more than 130 feet. All along, the river was a +roaring torrent, its fall very great; and, descending with a rapidity +to which we had long been strangers, to our great pleasure oak-trees +appeared on the ridge, and soon became very frequent; on these I +remarked great quantities of mistletoe. Rushes began to make their +appearance; and at a small creek where they were abundant, one of the +messes was left with the weakest horses, while we continued on. + +The opposite mountain-side was very steep and continuous--unbroken by +ravines, and covered with pines and snow; while on the side we were +traveling, innumerable rivulets poured down from the ridge. Continuing +on, we halted a moment at one of these rivulets, to admire some +beautiful evergreen-trees, resembling live-oak, which shaded the little +stream. They were forty to fifty feet high, and two in diameter, with a +uniform tufted top; and the summer green of their beautiful foliage, +with the singing birds, and the sweet summer wind which was whirling +about the dry oak leaves, nearly intoxicated us with delight; and we +hurried on, filled with excitement, to escape entirely from the horrid +region of inhospitable snow, to the perpetual spring of the Sacramento. + +When we had traveled about ten miles, the valley opened a little to an +oak and pine bottom, through which ran rivulets closely bordered with +rushes, on which our half-starved horses fell with avidity; and here we +made our encampment. Here the roaring torrent has already become a +river, and we had descended to an elevation of 3,864 feet. + +Along our road to-day the rock was a white granite, which appears to +constitute the upper part of the mountains on both the eastern and +western slopes; while between, the central is a volcanic rock. + +Another horse was killed to-night, for food. + +25th.--Believing that the difficulties of the road were passed, and +leaving Mr. Fitzpatrick to follow slowly, as the condition of the +animals required, I started ahead this morning with a party of eight, +consisting of myself, Mr. Preuss and Mr. Talbot, Carson, Derosier, +Towns, Proue, and Jacob. We took with us some of the best animals, and +my intention was to proceed as rapidly as possible to the house of Mr. +Sutter, and return to meet the party with a supply of provisions and +fresh animals. + +Continuing down the river, which pursued a very direct westerly course +through a narrow valley, with only a very slight and narrow +bottom-land, we made twelve miles, and encamped at some old Indian +huts, apparently a fishing-place on the river. The bottom was covered +with trees of deciduous foliage, and overgrown with vines and rushes. +On a bench of the hill near by, was a hill of fresh green grass, six +inches long in some of the tufts which I had the curiosity to measure. +The animals were driven here; and I spent part of the afternoon sitting +on a large rock among them, enjoying the pauseless rapidity with which +they luxuriated on the unaccustomed food. + +The forest was imposing to-day in the magnificence of the trees; some +of the pines, bearing large cones, were 10 feet in diameter. Cedars +also abounded, and we measured one 281/2 feet in circumference, four +feet from the ground. This noble tree seemed here to be in its proper +soil and climate. We found it on both sides of the Sierra, but most +abundant on the west. + +26th.--We continued to follow the stream, the mountains on either hand +increasing in height as we descended, and shutting up the river +narrowly in precipices, along which we had great difficulty to get our +horses. + +It rained heavily during the afternoon, and we were forced off the +river to the heights above; whence we descended, at night-fall, the +point of a spur between the river and a fork of nearly equal size, +coming in from the right. Here we saw, on the lower hills, the first +flowers in bloom, which occurred suddenly, and in considerable +quantity--one of them a species of _gilia_. + +The current in both streams (rather torrents than rivers) was broken by +large boulders. It was late, and the animals fatigued; and not +succeeding to find a ford immediately, we encamped, although the +hill-side afforded but a few stray bunches of grass, and the horses, +standing about in the rain, looked very miserable. + +27th.--We succeeded in fording the stream, and made a trail by which we +crossed the point of the opposite hill, which, on the southern +exposure, was prettily covered with green grass, and we halted a mile +from our last encampment. The river was only about 60 feet wide, but +rapid, and occasionally deep, foaming among boulders, and the water +beautifully clear. We encamped on the hill-slope, as there was no +bottom level, and the opposite ridge is continuous, affording no +streams. + +We had with us a large kettle; and a mule being killed here, his head +was boiled in it for several hours, and made a passable soup for +famished people. + +Below, precipices on the river forced us to the heights, which we +ascended by a steep spur 2,000 feet high. My favorite horse, Proveau, +had become very weak, and was scarcely able to bring himself to the +top. Traveling here was good, except in crossing the ravines, which +were narrow, steep, and frequent. We caught a glimpse of a deer, the +first animal we had seen; but did not succeed in approaching him. +Proveau could not keep up, and I left Jacob to bring him on, being +obliged to press forward with the party, as there was no grass in the +forest. We grew very anxious as the day advanced and no grass appeared, +for the lives of our animals depended on finding it to-night. They were +in just such a condition that grass and repose for the night enabled +them to get on the next day. Every hour we had been expecting to see +open out before us the valley, which, from the mountain above, seemed +almost at our feet. A new and singular shrub, which had made its +appearance since crossing the mountain, was very frequent to-day. It +branched out near the ground, forming a clump eight to ten feet high, +with pale-green leaves, of an oval form; and the body and branches had +a naked appearance, as if stripped of the bark, which is very smooth +and thin, of a chocolate color, contrasting well with the pale green of +the leaves. The day was nearly gone; we had made a hard day's march, +and found no grass. Towns became light-headed, wandering off into the +woods without knowing where he was going, and Jacob brought him back. + +Near night-fall we descended into the steep ravine of a handsome creek +30 feet wide, and I was engaged in getting the horses up the opposite +hill, when I heard a shout from Carson, who had gone ahead a few +hundred yards--"Life yet," said he, as he came up, "life yet; I have +found a hill-side sprinkled with grass enough for the night." We drove +along our horses, and encamped at the place about dark, and there was +just room enough to make a place for shelter on the edge of the stream. +Three horses were lost to-day--Proveau; a fine young horse from the +Columbia, belonging to Charles Towns; and another Indian horse, which +carried our cooking utensils. The two former gave out, and the latter +strayed off into the woods as we reached the camp. + +29th.--We lay shut up in the narrow ravine, and gave the animals a +necessary day; and men were sent back after the others. Derosier +volunteered to bring up Proveau, to whom he knew I was greatly +attached, as he had been my favorite horse on both expeditions. Carson +and I climbed one of the nearest mountains; the forest land still +extended ahead, and the valley appeared as far as ever. The pack-horse +was found near the camp; but Derosier did not get in. + + + +MARCH. + + +1st.--Derosier did not get in during the night, and leaving him to +follow, as no grass remained here, we continued on over the uplands, +crossing many small streams, and camped again on the river, having made +six miles. Here we found the hillside covered (although lightly) with +fresh green grass; and from this time forward we found it always +improving and abundant. + +We made a pleasant camp on the river hill, where were some beautiful +specimens of the chocolate-colored shrub, which were a foot in diameter +near the ground, and fifteen to twenty feet high. The opposite ridge +runs continuously along, unbroken by streams. We are rapidly descending +into the spring, and we are leaving our snowy region far behind; every +thing is getting green; butterflies are swarming; numerous bugs are +creeping out, wakened from their winter's sleep; and the forest flowers +are coming into bloom. Among those which appeared most numerously +to-day was _dodecatheon dentatum_. + +We began to be uneasy at Derosier's absence, fearing he might have been +bewildered in the woods. Charles Towns, who had not yet recovered his +mind, went to swim in the river, as if it were summer, and the stream +placid, when it was a cold mountain torrent foaming among the rocks. We +were happy to see Derosier appear in the evening. He came in, and, +sitting down by the fire, began to tell us where he had been. He +imagined he had been gone several days, and thought we were still at +the camp where he had left us; and we were pained to see that his mind +was deranged. It appeared that he had been lost in the mountain, and +hunger and fatigue, joined to weakness of body and fear of perishing in +the mountains, had crazed him. The times were severe when stout men +lost their minds from extremity of suffering--when horses died--and +when mules and horses, ready to die of starvation, were killed for +food. Yet there was no murmuring or hesitation. + +A short distance below our encampment the river mountains terminated in +precipices, and, after a fatiguing march of only a few miles, we +encamped on a bench where there were springs, and an abundance of the +freshest grass. In the mean time, Mr. Preuss continued on down the +river, and, unaware that we had encamped so early in the day, was lost. +When night arrived, and he did not come in, we began to understand what +had happened to him; but it was too late to make any search. + +3d.--We followed Mr. Preuss' trail for a considerable distance along +the river, until we reached a place where he had descended to the +stream below and encamped. Here we shouted and fired guns, but received +no answer; and we concluded that he had pushed on down the stream. I +determined to keep out from the river, along which it was nearly +impracticable to travel with animals, until it should form a valley. At +every step the country improved in beauty; the pines were rapidly +disappearing, and oaks became the principal trees of the forest. Among +these, the prevailing tree was the evergreen oak, (which, by way of +distinction, we call the _live-oak_;) and with these occurred +frequently a new species of oak bearing a long slender acorn, from an +inch to an inch and a half in length, which we now began to see formed +the principal vegetable food of the inhabitants of this region. In a +short distance we crossed a little rivulet, where were two old huts, +and near by were heaps of acorn hulls. The ground round about was very +rich, covered with an exuberant sward of grass; and we sat down for a +while in the shade of the oaks, to let the animals feed. We repeated +our shouts for Mr. Preuss; and this time were gratified with an answer. +The voice grew rapidly nearer, ascending from the river; but when we +expected to see him emerge, it ceased entirely. We had called up some +straggling Indian--the first we had met, although for two days back we +had seen tracks--who, mistaking us for his fellows, had been only +undeceived on getting close up. It would have been pleasant to witness +his astonishment; he would not have been more frightened had some of +the old mountain spirits they are so much afraid of suddenly appeared +in his path. Ignorant of the character of these people, we had now an +additional cause of uneasiness in regard to Mr. Preuss; he had no arms +with him, and we began to think his chance doubtful. We followed on a +trail, still keeping out from the river, and descended to a very large +creek, dashing with great velocity over a pre-eminently rocky bed, and +among large boulders. The bed had sudden breaks, formed by deep holes +and ledges of rock running across. Even here, it deserves the name of +_Rock_ creek, which we gave to it. We succeeded in fording it, and +toiled about three thousand feet up the opposite hill. The mountains +now were getting sensibly lower; but still there is no valley on the +river, which presents steep and rocky banks; but here, several miles +from the river, the country is smooth and grassy; the forest has no +undergrowth; and in the open valleys of rivulets, or around +spring-heads, the low groves of live-oak give the appearance of +orchards in an old cultivated country. Occasionally we met deer, but +had not the necessary time for hunting. At one of these +orchard-grounds, we encamped about noon to make an effort for Mr. +Preuss. One man took his way along a spur leading into the river, in +hope to cross his trail; and another took our own back. Both were +volunteers; and to the successful man was promised a pair of +pistols--not as a reward, but as a token of gratitude for a service +which would free us all from much anxiety. + +We had among our few animals a horse which was so much reduced, that, +with traveling, even the good grass could nor save him; and, having +nothing to eat, he was killed this afternoon. He was a good animal, and +had made the journey round from Fort Hall. + +_Dodecatheon dentatum_ continued the characteristic plant in flower; +and the naked-looking shrub already mentioned continued characteristic, +beginning to put forth a small white blossom. At evening the men +returned, having seen or heard nothing of Mr. Preuss; and I determined +to make a hard push down the river the next morning and get ahead of +him. + +4th.--We continued rapidly along on a broad plainly-beaten trail, the +mere traveling and breathing the delightful air being a positive +enjoyment. Our road led along a ridge inclining to the river, and the +air and the open grounds were fragrant with flowering shrubs; and in +the course of the morning we issued on an open spur, by which we +descended directly to the stream. Here the river issues suddenly from +the mountains, which hitherto had hemmed it closely in; these now +become softer, and change sensibly their character; and at this point +commences the most beautiful valley in which we had ever traveled. We +hurried to the river, on which we noticed a small sand beach, to which +Mr. Preuss would naturally have gone. We found no trace of him, but, +instead, were recent tracks of bare-footed Indians, and little piles of +muscle-shells, and old fires where they had roasted the fish. We +traveled on over the river grounds, which were undulating, and covered +with grass to the river brink. We halted to noon a few miles beyond, +always under the shade of the evergreen oaks, which formed open groves +on the bottoms. + +Continuing our road in the afternoon, we ascended to the uplands, where +the river passes round a point of great beauty, and goes through very +remarkable dalles, in character resembling those of the Columbia. +Beyond, we again descended to the bottoms, where we found an Indian +village, consisting of two or three huts; we had come upon them +suddenly, and the people had evidently just run off. The huts were low +and slight, made like beehives in a picture, five or six feet high, and +near each was a crate, formed of interlaced branches and grass, in size +and shape like a very large hogshead. Each of these contained from six +to nine bushels. These were filled with the long acorns already +mentioned, and in the huts were several neatly-made baskets, containing +quantities of the acorns roasted. They were sweet and agreeably +flavored, and we supplied ourselves with about half a bushel, leaving +one of our shirts, a handkerchief, and some smaller articles, in +exchange. The river again entered for a space among the hills, and we +followed a trail leading across a bend through a handsome hollow +behind. Here, while engaged in trying to circumvent a deer, we +discovered some Indians on a hill several hundred yards ahead, and gave +them a shout, to which they responded by loud and rapid talking and +vehement gesticulation, but made no stop, hurrying up the mountain as +fast as their legs could carry them. We passed on, and again encamped +in a grassy grove. + +The absence of Mr. Preuss gave me great concern; and, for a large +reward, Derosier volunteered to go back on the trail. I directed him to +search along the river, traveling upward for the space of a day and a +half, at which time I expected he would meet Mr. Fitzpatrick, whom I +requested to aid in the search; at all events, he was to go no farther, +but return to this camp, where a _cache_ of provisions was made for him. + +Continuing the next day down the river, we discovered three squaws in a +little bottom, and surrounded them before they could make their escape. +They had large conical baskets, which they were engaged in filling with +a small leafy plant (_erodium cicutarium_) just now beginning to bloom, +and covering the ground like a sward of grass. These did not make any +lamentations, but appeared very much impressed with our appearance, +speaking to us only in a whisper, and offering us smaller baskets of +the plant, which they signified to us was good to eat, making signs +also that it was to be cooked by the fire. We drew out a little cold +horse-meat, and the squaws made signs to us that the men had gone out +after deer, and that we could have some by waiting till they came in. +We observed that the horses ate with great avidity the herb which they +had been gathering; and here also, for the first time, we saw Indians +eat the common grass--one of the squaws pulling several tufts, and +eating it with apparent relish. Seeing our surprise, she pointed to the +horses; but we could not well understand what she meant, except, +perhaps, that what was good for the one was good for the other. + +We encamped in the evening on the shore of the river, at a place where +the associated beauties of scenery made so strong an impression on us +that we gave it the name of the Beautiful Camp. The undulating river +shore was shaded with the live-oaks, which formed a continuous grove +over the country, and the same grassy sward extended to the edge of the +water, and we made our fires near some large granite masses which were +lying among the trees. We had seen several of the acorn _caches_ during +the day, and here there were two which were very large, containing +each, probably, ten bushels. Towards evening we heard a weak shout +among the hills behind, and had the pleasure to see Mr. Preuss +descending towards the camp. Like ourselves, he had traveled to-day 25 +miles, but had seen nothing of Derosier. Knowing, on the day he was +lost, that I was determined to keep the river as much as possible, he +had not thought it necessary to follow the trail very closely, but +walked on, right and left, certain to find it somewhere along the +river, searching places to obtain good views of the country. Towards +sunset he climbed down towards the river to look for the camp; but, +finding no trail, concluded that we were behind, and walked back till +night came on, when, being very much fatigued, he collected drift-wood +and made a large fire among the rocks. The next day it became more +serious and he encamped again alone, thinking that we must have taken +some other course. To go back would have been madness in his weak and +starved condition, and onward towards the valley was his only hope, +always in expectation of reaching it soon. His principal means of +subsistence were a few roots, which the hunters call sweet onions, +having very little taste, but a good deal of nutriment, growing +generally in rocky ground, and requiring a good deal of labor to get, +as he had only a pocket-knife. Searching for these, he found a nest of +big ants, which he let run on his hand, and stripped them off in his +mouth; these had an agreeable acid taste. One of his greatest +privations was the want of tobacco; and a pleasant smoke at evening +would have been a relief which only a voyageur could appreciate. He +tried the dried leaves of the live-oak, knowing that those of other +oaks were sometimes used as a substitute; but these were too thick, and +would not do. On the 4th he made seven or eight miles, walking slowly +along the river, avoiding as much as possible to climb the hills. In +little pools he caught some of the smallest kind of frogs, which he +swallowed, not so much in the gratification of hunger, as in the hope +of obtaining some strength. Scattered along the river were old +fire-places, where the Indians had roasted muscles and acorns; but +though he searched diligently, he did not there succeed in finding +either. He had collected firewood for the night, when he heard, at some +distance from the river, the barking of what he thought were two dogs, +and walked in that direction as quickly as he was able, hoping to find +there some Indian hut, but met only two wolves; and, in his +disappointment, the gloom of the forest was doubled. + +Traveling the next day feebly down the river, he found five or six +Indians at the huts of which we have spoken: some were painting +themselves black, and others roasting acorns. Being only one man, they +did not run off, but received him kindly, and gave him a welcome supply +of roasted acorns. He gave them his pocket-knife in return, and +stretched out his hand to one of the Indians, who did not appear to +comprehend the motion, but jumped back, as if he thought he was about +to lay hold of him. They seemed afraid of him, not certain as to what +he was. + +Traveling on, he came to the place where we had found the squaws. Here +he found our fire still burning, and the tracks of the horses. The +sight gave him sudden hope and courage; and, following as fast as he +could, joined us at evening. + +6th.--We continued on our road through the same surpassingly beautiful +country, entirely unequalled for the pasturage of stock by any thing we +had ever seen. Our horses had now become so strong that they were able +to carry us, and we traveled rapidly--over four miles an hour; four of +us riding every alternate hour. Every few hundred yards we came upon a +little band of deer; but we were too eager to reach the settlement, +which we momentarily expected to discover, to halt for any other than a +passing shot. In a few hours we reached a large fork, the northern +branch of the river, and equal in size to that which we had descended. +Together they formed a beautiful stream, 60 to 100 yards wide; which at +first, ignorant of the nature of the country through which that river +ran, we took to be the Sacramento. + +We continued down the right bank of the river, traveling for a while +over a wooded upland, where we had the delight to discover tracks of +cattle. To the southwest was visible a black column of smoke, which we +had frequently noticed in descending, arising from the fires we had +seen from the top of the Sierra. From the upland we descended into +broad groves on the river, consisting of the evergreen, and a new +species of a white-oak, with a large tufted top, and three to six feet +in diameter. Among these was no brushwood; and the grassy surface gave +to it the appearance of parks in an old-settled country. Following the +tracks of the horses and cattle, in search of people, we discovered a +small village of Indians. Some of these had on shirts of civilized +manufacture, but were otherwise naked, and we could understand nothing +from them: they appeared entirely astonished at seeing us. + +We made an acorn meal at noon, and hurried on; the valley being gay +with flowers, and some of the banks being absolutely golden with the +Californian poppy, (_eschescholtzia crocea_.) Here the grass was smooth +and green, and the groves very open; the large oaks throwing a broad +shade among sunny spots. Shortly afterwards we gave a shout at the +appearance, on a little bluff, of a neatly-built _adobe_ house, with +glass windows. We rode up, but, to our disappointment, found only +Indians. There was no appearance of cultivation, and we could see no +cattle; and we supposed the place had been abandoned. We now pressed on +more eagerly than ever: the river swept round a large bend to the +right; the hills lowered down entirely; and, gradually entering a broad +valley, we came unexpectedly into a large Indian village, where the +people looked clean, and wore cotton shirts and various other articles +of dress. They immediately crowded around us, and we had the +inexpressible delight to find one who spoke a little indifferent +Spanish, but who at first confounded us by saying there were no whites +in the country; but just then a well-dressed Indian came up, and made +his salutations in very well-spoken Spanish. In answer to our +inquiries, he informed us that we were upon the _Rio de los +Americanos_, (the river of the Americans,) and that it joined the +Sacramento river about ten miles below. Never did a name sound more +sweetly! We felt ourselves among our countrymen; for the name of +_American_, in these distant parts, is applied to the citizens of the +United States. To our eager inquiries he answered, "I am a _vaquero_ +(cowherd) in the service of Capt. Sutter, and the people of this +_rancheria_ work for him." Our evident satisfaction made him +communicative; and he went on to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich +man, and always glad to see his country people. We asked for his house. + +He answered, that it was just over the hill before us; and offered, if +we would wait a moment, to take his horse and conduct us to it. We +readily accepted this civil offer. In a short distance we came in sight +of the fort; and, passing on the way the house of a settler on the +opposite side, (a Mr. Sinclair,) we forded the river; and in a few +miles were met, a short distance from the fort, by Capt. Sutter +himself. He gave us a most frank and cordial reception--conducted us +immediately to his residence--and under his hospitable roof we had a +night of rest, enjoyment, and refreshment, which none but ourselves +could appreciate. But the party left in the mountains, with Mr. +Fitzpatrick, were to be attended to; and the next morning, supplied +with fresh horses and provisions, I hurried off to meet them. On the +second day we met, a few miles below the forks of the Rio de los +Americanos; and a more forlorn and pitiable sight than they presented, +cannot well be imagined. They were all on foot--each man, weak and +emaciated, leading a horse or mule as weak and emaciated as themselves. +They had experienced great difficulty in descending the mountains, made +slippery by rains and melting snows, and many horses fell over +precipices, and were killed; and with some were lost the _packs_ they +carried. Among these, was a mule with the plants which we had collected +since leaving Fort Hall, along a line of 2,000 miles' travel. Out of 67 +horses and mules, with which we commenced crossing the Sierra, only 33 +reached the valley of the Sacramento, and they only in a condition to +be led along. Mr. Fitzpatrick and his party, traveling more slowly, had +been able to make some little exertion at hunting, and had killed a few +deer. The scanty supply was a great relief to them; for several had +been made sick by the strange and unwholesome food which the +preservation of life compelled them to use. We stopped and encamped as +soon as we met; and a repast of good beef, excellent bread, and +delicious salmon, which I had brought along, was their first relief +from the sufferings of the Sierra, and their first introduction to the +luxuries of the Sacramento. It required all our philosophy and +forbearance to prevent _plenty_ from becoming as hurtful to us now, as +_scarcity_ had been before. + +The next day, March 8th, we encamped at the junction of the two rivers, +the Sacramento and Americanos; and thus found the whole party in the +beautiful valley of the Sacramento. It was a convenient place for the +camp; and, among other things, was within reach of the wood necessary +to make the pack-saddles, which we should need on our long journey +home, from which we were farther distant now than we were four months +before, when from the Dalles of the Columbia we so cheerfully took up +the homeward line of march. + +Captain Sutter emigrated to this country from the western part of +Missouri in 1838-39, and formed the first settlement in the valley, on +a large grant of land which he obtained from the Mexican Government. He +had, at first, some trouble with the Indians; but, by the occasional +exercise of well-timed authority, he has succeeded in converting them +into a peaceable and industrious people. The ditches around his +extensive wheat-fields; the making of the sun-dried bricks, of which +his fort is constructed; the ploughing, harrowing, and other +agricultural operations, are entirely the work of these Indians, for +which they receive a very moderate compensation--principally in shirts, +blankets, and other articles of clothing. In the same manner, on +application to the chief of a village, he readily obtains as many boys +and girls as he has any use for. There were at this time a number of +girls at the fort, in training for a future woolen factory; but they +were now all busily engaged in constantly watering the gardens, which +the unfavorable dryness of the season rendered necessary. The +occasional dryness of some seasons, I understood to be the only +complaint of the settlers in this fertile valley, as it sometimes +renders the crops uncertain. Mr. Sutter was about making arrangements +to irrigate his lands by means of the Rio de los Americanos. He had +this year sown, and altogether by Indian labor, three hundred fanegas +of wheat. + +A few years since, the neighboring Russian establishment of Ross, being +about to withdraw from the country, sold to him a large number of +stock, with agricultural and other stores, with a number of pieces of +artillery and other munitions of war; for these, a regular yearly +payment is made in grain. + +The fort is a quadrangular _adobe_ structure, mounting twelve pieces of +artillery, (two of them brass,) and capable of admitting a garrison of +a thousand men; this, at present, consists of forty Indians in +uniform--one of whom was always found on duty at the gate. As might +naturally be expected, the pieces are not in very good order. The +whites in the employment of Capt. Sutter, American, French, and German, +amount, perhaps, to thirty men. The inner wall is formed into +buildings, comprising the common quarters, with blacksmith and other +workshops; the dwelling-house, with a large distillery-house, and other +buildings, occupying more the centre of the area. + +It is built upon a pond-like stream, at times a running creek +communicating with the Rio de los Americanos, which enters the +Sacramento about two miles below. The latter is here a noble river, +about three hundred yards broad, deep and tranquil, with several +fathoms of water in the channel, and its banks continuously timbered. +There were two vessels belonging to Capt. Sutter at anchor near the +landing--one a large two-masted lighter, and the other a schooner, +which was shortly to proceed on a voyage to Fort Vancouver for a cargo +of goods. + +Since his arrival, several other persons, principally Americans, have +established themselves in the valley. Mr. Sinclair, from whom I +experienced much kindness during my stay, is settled a few miles +distant, on the Rio de los Americanos. Mr. Coudrois, a gentleman from +Germany, has established himself on Feather river, and is associated +with Capt. Sutter in agricultural pursuits. Among other improvements, +they are about to introduce the cultivation of rape-seed, (_brassica +rapus_,) which there is every reason to believe is admirably adapted to +the climate and soil. The lowest average produce of wheat, as far as we +can at present know, is thirty-five fanegas for one sown; but, as an +instance of its fertility, it may be mentioned that Señor Valejo +obtained, on a piece of ground where sheep had been pastured, 800 +fanegas for eight sown. The produce being different in various places, +a very correct idea cannot be formed. + +An impetus was given to the active little population by our arrival, as +we were in want of every thing. Mules, horses, and cattle, were to be +collected; the horse-mill was at work day and night, to make sufficient +flour; the blacksmith's shop was put in requisition for horse-shoes and +bridle-bits; and pack-saddles, ropes, and bridles, and all the other +little equipments of the camp, were again to be provided. + +The delay thus occasioned was one of repose and enjoyment, which our +situation required, and, anxious as we were to resume our homeward +journey, was regretted by no one. In the mean time, I had the pleasure +to meet with Mr. Chiles, who was residing at a farm on the other side +of the river Sacramento, while engaged in the selection of a place for +a settlement, for which he had received the necessary grant of land +from the Mexican government. + +It will be remembered that we had parted near the frontier of the +states, and that he had subsequently descended the valley of Lewis's +fork, with a party of ten or twelve men, with the intention of crossing +the intermediate mountains to the waters of the Bay of San Francisco. +In the execution of this design, and aided by subsequent information, +he left the Columbia at the mouth of _Malheur_ river, and, making his +way to the head-waters of the Sacramento with a part of his company, +traveled down that river to the settlements of Nueva Helvetia. The +other party, to whom he had committed his wagons, and mill-irons, and +saws, took a course further to the south, and the wagons and their +contents were lost. + +On the 22d we made a preparatory move, and encamped near the settlement +of Mr. Sinclair, on the left bank of the Rio de los Americanos. I had +discharged five of the party; Neal, the blacksmith, (an excellent +workman, and an unmarried man, who had done his duty faithfully, and +had been of very great service to me,) desired to remain, as strong +inducements were offered here to mechanics. + +Although at considerable inconvenience to myself, his good conduct +induced me to comply with his request; and I obtained for him from +Capt. Sutter, a present compensation of two dollars and a half per +diem, with a promise that it should be increased to five, if he proved +as good a workman as had been represented. He was more particularly an +agricultural blacksmith. The other men were discharged with their own +consent. + +While we remained at this place, Derosier, one of our best men, whose +steady good conduct had won my regard, wandered off from the camp, and +never returned to it again, nor has he since been heard of. + +24th.--We resumed our journey with an ample stock of provisions and a +large cavalcade of animals, consisting of 130 horses and mules, and +about 30 head of cattle, five of which were milch-cows. Mr. Sutter +furnished us also with an Indian boy, who had been trained as a +_vaquero_, and who would be serviceable in managing our cavalcade, +great part of which were nearly as wild as buffalo, and who was, +besides, very anxious to go along with us. Our direct course home was +east, but the Sierra would force us south, above 500 miles of +traveling, to a pass at the head of the San Joaquin river. This pass, +reported to be good, was discovered by Mr. Joseph Walker, of whom I +have already spoken, and whose name it might therefore appropriately +bear. To reach it, our course lay along the valley of the San +Joaquin--the river on our right, and the lofty wall of the impassable +Sierra on the left. From that pass we were to move southeastwardly, +having the Sierra then on the right, and reach the "_Spanish trail_," +deviously traced from one watering-place to another, which constituted +the route of the caravans from _Puebla de los Angelos_, near the coast +of the Pacific, to _Santa Fé_ of New Mexico. From the pass to this +trail was 150 miles. Following that trail through a desert, relieved by +some fertile plains indicated by the recurrence of the term _vegas_, +until it turned to the right to cross the Colorado, our course would be +northeast until we regained the latitude we had lost in arriving at +Eutah lake, and thence to the Rocky mountains at the head of the +Arkansas. This course of traveling, forced upon us by the structure of +the country, would occupy a computed distance of 2,000 miles before we +reached the head of the Arkansas--not a settlement to be seen upon +it--and the names of places along it, all being Spanish or Indian, +indicated that it had been but little trod by _American_ feet. Though +long, and not free from hardships, this route presented some points of +attraction, in tracing the Sierra Nevada--turning the Great Basin, +perhaps crossing its rim on the south--completely solving the problem +of any river, except the Colorado, from the Rocky mountains on that +part of our continent--and seeing the southern extremity of the Great +Salt lake, of which the northern part had been examined the year before. + +Taking leave of Mr. Sutter, who, with several gentlemen, accompanied us +a few miles on our way, we traveled about 18 miles, and encamped on the +_Rio de los Cosumnes_, a stream receiving its name from the Indians who +live in its valley. Our road was through a level country, admirably +suited to cultivation, and covered with groves of oak-trees, +principally the evergreen-oak, and a large oak already mentioned, in +form like those of the white-oak. The weather, which here, at this +season, can easily be changed from the summer heat of the valley to the +frosty mornings and bright days nearer the mountains, continued +delightful for travelers, but unfavorable to the agriculturists, whose +crops of wheat began to wear a yellow tinge from want of rain. + +25th.--We traveled for 28 miles over the same delightful country as +yesterday, and halted in a beautiful bottom at the ford of the _Rio de +los Mukelemnes_, receiving its name from another Indian tribe living on +the river. The bottoms on the stream are broad, rich, and extremely +fertile, and the uplands are shaded with oak groves. A showy _lupinus_, +of extraordinary beauty, growing four to five feet in height, and +covered with spikes in bloom, adorned the banks of the river, and +filled the air with a light and grateful perfume. + +On the 26th we halted at the _Arroyo de las Calaveras_, (Skull creek,) +a tributary to the San Joaquin--the previous two streams entering the +bay between the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. This place is +beautiful, with open groves of oak, and a grassy sward beneath, with +many plants in bloom, some varieties of which seem to love the shade of +the trees, and grow there in close small fields. Near the river, and +replacing the grass, are great quantities of _ammole_, (soap plant,) +the leaves of which are used in California for making, among other +things, mats for saddle-cloths. A vine with a small white flower, +(_melothria?_) called here _la yerba buena_, and which, from its +abundance, gives name to an island and town in the bay, was to-day very +frequent on our road--sometimes running on the ground or climbing the +trees. + +27th.--To-day we traveled steadily and rapidly up the valley; for, with +our wild animals, any other gait was impossible, and making about five +miles an hour. During the earlier part of the day, our ride had been +over a very level prairie, or rather a succession of long stretches of +prairie, separated by lines and groves of oak timber, growing along dry +gullies, which are filled with water in seasons of rain; and, perhaps, +also, by the melting snows. Over much of this extent, the vegetation +was sparse; the surface showing plainly the action of water, which, in +the season of flood, the Joaquin spreads over the valley. About one +o'clock we came again among innumerable flowers; and a few miles +further, fields of the beautiful blue-flowering _lupine_, which seems +to love the neighborhood of water, indicated that we were approaching a +stream. We here found this beautiful shrub in thickets, some of them +being 12 feet in height. Occasionally three or four plants were +clustered together, forming a grand bouquet, about 90 feet in +circumference, and 10 feet high; the whole summit covered with spikes +of flowers, the perfume of which is very sweet and grateful. A lover of +natural beauty can imagine with what pleasure we rode among these +flowering groves, which filled the air with a light and delicate +fragrance. We continued our road for about a half a mile, interspersed +through an open grove of live-oaks, which, in form, were the most +symmetrical and beautiful we had yet seen in this country. The ends of +their branches rested on the ground, forming somewhat more than a half +sphere of very full and regular figure, with leaves apparently smaller +than usual. + +The Californian poppy, of a rich orange color, was numerous to-day. Elk +and several bands of antelope made their appearance. + +Our road was now one continued enjoyment; and it was pleasant riding +among this assemblage of green pastures with varied flowers and +scattered groves, and out of the warm green spring to look at the rocky +and snowy peaks where lately we had suffered so much. Emerging from the +timber, we came suddenly upon the Stanislaus river, where we hoped to +find a ford, but the stream was flowing by, dark and deep, swollen by +the mountain snows; its general breadth was about 50 yards. + +We traveled about five miles up the river, and encamped without being +able to find a ford. Here we made a large _coral_, in order to be able +to catch a sufficient number of our wild animals to relieve those +previously packed. + +Under the shade of the oaks, along the river, I noticed _erodium +cicutarium_ in bloom, eight or ten inches high. This is the plant which +we had seen the squaws gathering on the Rio de los Americanos. By the +inhabitants of the valley it is highly esteemed for fattening cattle, +which appear to be very fond of it. Here, where the soil begins to be +sandy, it supplies to a considerable extent the want of grass. + +Desirous, as far as possible, without delay, to include in our +examination the San Joaquin river, I returned this morning down the +Stanislaus for 17 miles, and again encamped without having found a +fording-place. After following it for eight miles further the next +morning, and finding ourselves in the vicinity of the San Joaquin, +encamped in a handsome oak grove, and, several cattle being killed, we +ferried over our baggage in their skins. Here our Indian boy, who +probably had not much idea of where he was going, and began to be +alarmed at the many streams which we were rapidly putting between him +and the village, deserted. + +Thirteen head of cattle took a sudden fright, while we were driving +them across the river, and galloped off. I remained a day in the +endeavor to recover them; but, finding they had taken the trail back to +the fort, let them go without further effort. Here we had several days +of warm and pleasant rain, which doubtless saved the crops below. + + + +APRIL. + + +On the 1st of April, we made 10 miles across a prairie without timber, +when we were stopped again by another large river, which is called the +_Rio de la Merced_, (river of our Lady of Mercy.) Here the country had +lost its character of extreme fertility, the soil having become more +sandy and light; but, for several days past, its beauty had been +increased by the additional animation of animal life; and now, it is +crowded with bands of elk and wild horses; and along the rivers are +frequent fresh tracks of grizzly bear, which are unusually numerous in +this country. + +Our route had been along the timber of the San Joaquin, generally about +eight miles distant, over a high prairie. + +In one of the bands of elk seen to-day, there were about 200; but the +larger bands, both of these and wild horses, are generally found on the +other side of the river, which, for that reason, I avoided crossing. I +had been informed below, that the droves of wild horses were almost +invariably found on the western bank of the river; and the danger of +losing our animals among them, together with the wish of adding to our +reconnoissance the numerous streams which run down from the Sierra, +decided me to travel up the eastern bank. + +2d.--The day was occupied in building a boat, and ferrying our baggage +across the river; and we encamped on the bank. A large fishing eagle +was slowly sailing along, looking after salmon; and there were some +pretty birds in the timber, with partridges, ducks and geese +innumerable in the neighborhood. We were struck with the tameness of +the latter bird at Helvetia, scattered about in flocks near the +wheat-fields, and eating grass on the prairie; a horseman would ride by +within 30 yards, without disturbing them. + +3d.--To-day we touched several times the San Joaquin river--here a +fine-looking tranquil stream, with a slight current, and apparently +deep. It resembled the Missouri in color, with occasional points of +white sand; and its banks, where steep, were a kind of sandy clay; its +average width appeared to be about eighty yards. In the bottoms are +frequent ponds, where our approach disturbed multitudes of wild fowl, +principally geese. Skirting along the timber, we frequently started +elk; and large bands were seen during the day, with antelope and wild +horses. The low country and the timber rendered it difficult to keep +the main line of the river; and this evening we encamped on a tributary +stream, about five miles from its mouth. On the prairie bordering the +San Joaquin bottoms, there occurred during the day but little grass, +and in its place was a sparse and dwarf growth of plants; the soil +being sandy, with small bare places and hillocks, reminded me much of +the Platte bottoms; but, on approaching the timber, we found a more +luxuriant vegetation, and at our camp was an abundance of grass and +pea-vines. + +The foliage of the oak is getting darker; and every thing, except that +the weather is a little cool, shows that spring is rapidly advancing; +and to-day we had quite a summer rain. + +4th.--Commenced to rain at daylight, but cleared off brightly at +sunrise. We ferried the river without any difficulty, and continued up +the San Joaquin. Elk were running in bands over the prairie and in the +skirt of the timber. We reached the river at the mouth of a large +slough, which we were unable to ford, and made a circuit of several +miles around. Here the country appears very flat; oak-trees have +entirely disappeared, and are replaced by a large willow, nearly equal +to it in size. The river is about a hundred yards in breadth, branching +into sloughs, and interspersed with islands. At this time it appears +sufficiently deep for a small steamer, but its navigation would be +broken by shallows at low water. Bearing in towards the river, we were +again forced off by another slough; and passing around, steered towards +a clump of trees on the river, and finding there good grass, encamped. +The prairies along the left bank are alive with immense droves of wild +horses; and they had been seen during the day at every opening through +the woods which afforded us a view across the river. Latitude, by +observation, 37° 08' 00"; longitude 120° 45' 22". + +5th--During the earlier part of the day's ride, the country presented a +lacustrine appearance; the river was deep, and nearly on a level with +the surrounding country; its banks raised like a levee, and fringed +with willows. Over the bordering plain were interspersed spots of +prairie among fields of _tule_, (bulrushes,) which in this country are +called _tulares_, and little ponds. On the opposite side, a line of +timber was visible which, according to information, points out the +course of the slough, which at times of high water connects with the +San Joaquin river--a large body of water in the upper part of the +valley, called the Tule lakes. The river and all its sloughs are very +full, and it is probable that the lake is now discharging. Here elk +were frequently started, and one was shot out of a band which ran +around us. On our left, the Sierra maintains its snowy height, and +masses of snow appear to descend very low towards the plains; probably +the late rains in the valley were snow on the mountains. We traveled 37 +miles, and encamped on the river. Longitude of the camp, 120° 28' 34", +and latitude, 36° 49' 12". + +6th.--After having traveled fifteen miles along the river, we made an +early halt, under the shade of sycamore-trees. Here we found the San +Joaquin coming down from the Sierra with a westerly course, and +checking our way, as all its tributaries had previously done. We had +expected to raft the river; but found a good ford, and encamped on the +opposite bank, where droves of wild horses were raising clouds of dust +on the prairie. Columns of smoke were visible in the direction of the +Tule lakes to the southward--probably kindled in the tulares by the +Indians, as signals that there were strangers in the valley. + +We made, on the 7th, a hard march in a cold chilly rain from morning +until night--the weather so thick that we traveled by compass. This was +a _traverse_ from the San Joaquin to the waters of the Tule lakes, and +our road was over a very level prairie country. We saw wolves +frequently during the day, prowling about after the young antelope, +which cannot run very fast. These were numerous during the day, and two +were caught by the people. + +Late in the afternoon we discovered timber, which was found to be +groves of oak-trees on a dry _arroyo_. The rain, which had fallen in +frequent showers, poured down in a storm at sunset, with a strong wind, +which swept off the clouds, and left a clear sky. Riding on through the +timber, about dark we found abundant water in small ponds, 20 to 30 +yards in diameter, with clear deep water and sandy beds, bordered with +bog rushes, (_juncus effusus_,) and a tall rush (_scirpus lacustris_) +twelve feet high, and surrounded near the margin with willow-trees in +bloom; among them one which resembled _salix myricoides_. The oak of +the groves was the same already mentioned, with small leaves, in form +like those of the white-oak, and forming, with the evergreen-oak, the +characteristic trees of the valley. + +8th.--After a ride of two miles through brush and open groves, we +reached a large stream, called the River of the Lake, resembling in +size the San Joaquin, and being about 100 yards broad. This is the +principal tributary to the Tule lakes, which collect all the waters in +the upper part of the valley. While we were searching for a ford, some +Indians appeared on the opposite bank, and having discovered that we +were not Spanish soldiers, showed us the way to a good ford several +miles above. + +The Indians of the Sierra make frequent descents upon the settlements +west of the Coast Range, which they keep constantly swept of horses; +among them are many who are called Christian Indians, being refugees +from Spanish missions. Several of these incursions occurred while we +were at Helvetia. Occasionally parties of soldiers follow them across +the Coast Range, but never enter the Sierra. + +On the opposite side we found some forty or fifty Indians, who had come +to meet us from the village below. We made them some small presents, +and invited them to our encampment, which, after about three miles +through fine oak groves, we made on the river. We made a fort, +principally on account of our animals. The Indians brought otter-skins, +and several kinds of fish, and bread made of acorns, to trade. Among +them were several who had come to live among these Indians when the +missions were broken up, and who spoke Spanish fluently. They informed +us that they were called by the Spaniards _mansitos_, (tame,) in +distinction from the wilder tribes of the mountains. They, however, +think themselves very insecure, not knowing at what unforeseen moment +the sins of the latter may be visited upon them. They are dark-skinned, +but handsome and intelligent Indians, and live principally on acorns +and the roots of the tule, of which also their huts are made. + +By observation, the latitude of the encampment is 36° 24' 50", and +longitude 119° 41' 40". + +9th.--For several miles we had very bad traveling over what is called +rotten ground, in which the horses were frequently up to their knees. +Making towards a line of timber, we found a small fordable stream, +beyond which the country improved, and the grass became excellent; and +crossing a number of dry and timbered _arroyos_, we traveled until late +through open oak groves, and encamped among a collection of streams. +These were running among rushes and willows; and, as usual, flocks of +blackbirds announced our approach to water. We have here approached +considerably nearer to the eastern Sierra, which shows very plainly, +still covered with masses of snow, which yesterday and to-day has also +appeared abundant on the Coast Range. + +10th.--To-day we made another long journey of about forty miles, +through a country uninteresting and flat, with very little grass and a +sandy soil, in which several branches we crossed had lost their water. +In the evening the face of the country became hilly; and, turning a few +miles up towards the mountains, we found a good encampment on a pretty +stream hidden among the hills, and handsomely timbered, principally +with large cottonwoods, (_populus_, differing from any in Michaux's +Sylva.) The seed-vessels of this tree were now just about bursting. + +Several Indians came down the river to see us in the evening; we gave +them supper, and cautioned them against stealing our horses; which they +promised not to attempt. + +11th.--A broad trail along the river here takes out among the hills. +"Buen camino," (good road,) said one of the Indians, of whom we had +inquired about the pass; and, following it accordingly, it conducted us +beautifully through a very broken country, by an excellent way, which, +otherwise, we should have found extremely bad. Taken separately, the +hills present smooth and graceful outlines, but, together, make bad +traveling ground. Instead of grass, the whole face of the country is +closely covered with _erodium cicutarium_, here only two or three +inches high. Its height and beauty varied in a remarkable manner with +the locality, being, in many low places which we passed during the day, +around streams and springs, two and three feet high. The country had +now assumed a character of aridity; and the luxuriant green of these +little streams, wooded with willow, oak, or sycamore, looked very +refreshing among the sandy hills. + +In the evening we encamped on a large creek, with abundant water. I +noticed here in bloom, for the first time since leaving the Arkansas +waters, the _Miribilis Jalapa_. + +12th.--Along our road to-day the country was altogether sandy, and +vegetation meager. _Ephedra occidentalis_, which we had first seen in +the neighborhood of the Pyramid lake, made its appearance here, and in +the course of the day became very abundant, and in large bushes. +Towards the close of the afternoon, we reached a tolerably large river, +which empties into a small lake at the head of the valley; it is about +thirty-five yards wide, with a stony and gravelly bed, and the swiftest +stream we have crossed since leaving the bay. The bottoms produced no +grass, though well timbered with willow and cottonwood; and, after +ascending several miles, we made a late encampment on a little bottom, +with scanty grass. In greater part, the vegetation along our road +consisted now of rare and unusual plants, among which many were +entirely new. + +Along the bottoms were thickets consisting of several varieties of +shrubs, which made here their first appearance; and among these was +_Garrya elliptica_, (Lindley,) a small tree belonging to a very +peculiar natural order, and, in its general appearance, (growing in +thickets,) resembling willow. It now became common along the streams, +frequently supplying the place of _salix longifolia_. + +13th.--The water was low, and a few miles above we forded the river at +a rapid, and marched in a southeasterly direction over a less broken +country. The mountains were now very near, occasionally looming out +through fog. In a few hours we reached the bottom of a creek without +water, over which the sandy beds were dispersed in many branches. +Immediately where we struck it, the timber terminated; and below, to +the right, it was a broad bed of dry and bare sands. There were many +tracks of Indians and horses imprinted in the sand, which, with other +indications, informed us was the creek issuing from the pass, and which +we have called Pass creek. We ascended a trail for a few miles along +the creek, and suddenly found a stream of water five feet wide, running +with a lively current, but losing itself almost immediately. This +little stream showed plainly the manner in which the mountain waters +lose themselves in sand at the eastern foot of the Sierra, leaving only +a parched desert and arid plains beyond. The stream enlarged rapidly, +and the timber became abundant as we ascended. + +A new species of pine made its appearance, with several kinds of oaks, +and a variety of trees; and the country changing its appearance +suddenly and entirely, we found ourselves again traveling among the old +orchard-like places. Here we selected a delightful encampment in a +handsome green oak hollow, where among the open bolls of the trees was +an abundant sward of grass and pea-vines. In the evening a Christian +Indian rode into the camp, well dressed, with long spurs, and a +_sombreo_, and speaking Spanish fluently. It was an unexpected +apparition, and a strange and pleasant sight in this desolate gorge of +a mountain--an Indian face, Spanish costume, jingling spurs, and horse +equipped after the Spanish manner. He informed me that he belonged to +one of the Spanish missions to the south, distant two or three days' +ride, and that he had obtained from the priests leave to spend a few +days with his relations in the Sierra. Having seen us enter the pass, +he had come down to visit us. He appeared familiarly acquainted with +the country, and gave me definite and clear information in regard to +the desert region east of the mountains. I had entered the pass with a +strong disposition to vary my route, and to travel directly across +towards the Great Salt lake, in the view of obtaining some acquaintance +with the interior of the Great Basin, while pursuing a direct course +for the frontier; but his representation, which described it as an arid +and barren desert, that had repulsed by its sterility all the attempts +of the Indians to penetrate it, determined me for the present to +relinquish the plan, and agreeably to his advice, after crossing the +Sierra, continue our intended route along its eastern base to the +Spanish trail. By this route, a party of six Indians, who had come from +a great river in the eastern part of the desert to trade with his +people, had just started on their return. He would himself return the +next day to _San Fernando_, and as our roads would be the same for two +days, he offered his services to conduct us so far on our way. His +offer was gladly accepted. The fog which had somewhat interfered with +views in the valley, had entirely passed off, and left a clear sky. +That which had enveloped us in the neighborhood of the pass proceeded +evidently from fires kindled among the tulares by Indians living near +the lakes, and which were intended to warn those in the mountains that +there were strangers in the valley. Our position was in latitude 35° +17' 12", and longitude 118° 35' 03". + +14th.--Our guide joined us this morning on the trail; and, arriving in +a short distance at an open bottom where the creek forked, we continued +up the right-hand branch, which was enriched by a profusion of flowers, +and handsomely wooded with sycamore, oaks, cottonwood, and willow, with +other trees, and some shrubby plants. In its long strings of balls, +this sycamore differs from that of the United States, and is the +_platanus occidentalus_ of Hooker--a new species recently described +among the plants collected in the voyage of the Sulphur. The cottonwood +varied its foliage with white tufts, and the feathery seeds were flying +plentifully through the air. Gooseberries, nearly ripe, were very +abundant in the mountains; and as we passed the dividing grounds, which +were not very easy to ascertain, the air was filled with perfume, as if +we were entering a highly cultivated garden; and, instead of green, our +pathway and the mountain sides were covered with fields of yellow +flowers, which here was the prevailing color. Our journey to-day was in +the midst of an advanced spring, whose green and floral beauty offered +a delightful contrast to the sandy valley we had just left. All the +day, snow was in sight on the butte of the mountain, which frowned down +upon us on the right; but we beheld it now with feelings of pleasant +security, as we rode along between green trees, and on flowers, with +hummingbirds and other feathered friends of the traveler enlivening the +serene spring air. As we reached the summit of this beautiful pass, and +obtained a view into the eastern country, we saw at once that here was +the place to take leave of all such pleasant scenes as those around us. +The distant mountains were now bald rocks again, and below the land had +any color but green. Taking into consideration the nature of the Sierra +Nevada, we found this pass an excellent one for horses; and with a +little labor, or perhaps with a more perfect examination of the +localities, it might be made sufficiently practicable for wagons. Its +latitude and longitude may be considered that of our last encampment, +only a few miles distant. The elevation was not taken--our half-wild +cavalcade making it troublesome to halt before night, when once started. + +We here left the waters of the bay of San Francisco, and, though forced +upon them contrary to my intentions, I cannot regret the necessity +which occasioned the deviation. It made me well acquainted with the +great range of the Sierra Nevada of the Alta California, and showed +that this broad and elevated snowy ridge was a continuation of the +Cascade Range of Oregon, between which and the ocean there is still +another and a lower range, parallel to the former and to the coast, and +which may be called the Coast Range. It also made me well acquainted +with the basin of the San Francisco bay, and with the two pretty rivers +and their valleys (the Sacramento and San Joaquin) which are tributary +to that bay, and cleared up some points in geography on which error had +long prevailed. It had been constantly represented, as I have already +stated, that the bay of San Francisco opened far into the interior, by +some river coming down from the base of the Rocky mountains, and upon +which supposed stream the name of Rio Buenaventura had been bestowed. +Our observations of the Sierra Nevada, in the long distance from the +head of the Sacramento, to the head of the San Joaquin, and of the +valley below it, which collects all the waters of the San Francisco +bay, show that this neither is nor can be the case. No river from the +interior does, or can, cross the Sierra Nevada--itself more lofty than +the Rocky mountains; and as to the Buenaventura, the mouth of which +seen on the coast gave the idea and the name of the reputed great +river, it is, in fact, a small stream of no consequence, not only below +the Sierra Nevada, but actually below the Coast Range--taking its rise +within half a degree of the ocean, running parallel to it for about two +degrees, and then falling into the Pacific near Monterey. There is no +opening from the bay of San Francisco into the interior of the +continent. The two rivers which flow into it are comparatively short, +and not perpendicular to the coast, but lateral to it, and having their +heads towards Oregon and southern California. They open lines of +communication north and south, and not eastwardly; and thus this want +of interior communication from the San Francisco bay, now fully +ascertained, gives great additional value to the Columbia, which stands +alone as the only great river on the Pacific slope of our continent +which leads from the ocean to the Rocky mountains, and opens a line of +communication from the sea to the valley of the Mississippi. + +Four _companeros_ joined our guide at the pass; and two going back at +noon, the others continued on in company. Descending from the hills, we +reached a country of fine grass, where the _erodium cicutarium_ finally +disappeared, giving place to an excellent quality of bunch-grass. +Passing by some springs where there was a rich sward of grass among +groves of large black-oak, we rode over a plain on which the guide +pointed out a spot where a refugee Christian Indian had been killed by +a party of soldiers which had unexpectedly penetrated into the +mountains. Crossing a low sierra, and descending a hollow where a +spring gushed out, we were struck by the sudden appearance of _yucca_ +trees, which gave a strange and southern character to the country, and +suited well with the dry and desert region we were approaching. +Associated with the idea of barren sands, their stiff and ungraceful +form makes them to the traveler the most repulsive tree in the +vegetable kingdom. Following the hollow, we shortly came upon a creek +timbered with large black-oak, which yet had not put forth a leaf. +There was a small rivulet of running water, with good grass. + +15th.--The Indians who had accompanied the guide returned this morning, +and I purchased from them a Spanish saddle and long spurs, as +reminiscences of the time; and for a few yards of scarlet cloth they +gave me a horse, which afterwards became food for other Indians. + +We continued a short distance down the creek, in which our guide +informed us that the water very soon disappeared, and turned directly +to the southward along the foot of the mountain; the trail on which we +rode appearing to describe the eastern limit of travel, where water and +grass terminated. Crossing a low spur, which bordered the creek, we +descended to a kind of plain among the lower spurs, the desert being in +full view on our left, apparently illimitable. A hot mist lay over it +to-day, through which it had a white and glistening appearance; here +and there a few dry-looking _buttes_ and isolated black ridges rose +suddenly upon it. "There," said our guide, stretching out his hand +towards it, "there are the great _llanos_, (plains,) _no hay agua; no +hay zacate--nada_: there is neither water nor grass--nothing; every +animal that goes upon them, dies." It was indeed dismal to look upon, +and to conceive so great a change in so short a distance. One might +travel the world over, without finding a valley more fresh and +verdant--more floral and sylvan--more alive with birds and +animals--more bounteously watered--than we had left in the San Joaquin: +here within a few miles' ride, a vast desert plain spread before us, +from which the boldest traveler turned away in despair. + +Directly in front of us, at some distance to the southward, and running +out in an easterly direction from the mountains, stretched a sierra, +having at the eastern end (perhaps 50 miles distant) some snowy peaks, +on which, by the information of our guide, snow rested all the year. + +Our cavalcade made a strange and grotesque appearance; and it was +impossible to avoid reflecting upon our position and composition in +this remote solitude. Within two degrees of the Pacific ocean--already +far south of the latitude of Monterey--and still forced on south by a +desert on one hand, and a mountain range on the other--guided by a +civilized Indian, attended by two wild ones from the Sierra--a Chinook +from the Columbia, and our mixture of American, French, German--all +armed--four or five languages heard at once--above a hundred horses and +mules, half wild--American, Spanish, and Indian dresses and equipments +intermingled--such was our composition. Our march was a sort of +procession. Scouts ahead and on the flanks; a front and rear division; +the pack-animals, baggage, and horned-cattle in the centre; and the +whole stretching a quarter of a mile along our dreary path. In this +form we journeyed, looking more as if we belonged to Asia than to the +United States of America. + +We continued in a southerly direction across the plain, to which, as +well as to all the country, so far as we could see, the _yucca_ trees +gave a strange and singular character. Several new plants appeared, +among which was a zygophyllaceous shrub, (_zygophyllum Californicum_, +Torr. and Frem.,) sometimes ten feet in height; in form, and in the +pliancy of its branches, it is rather a graceful plant. Its leaves are +small, covered with a resinous substance; and, particularly when +bruised and crushed, exhale a singular but very agreeable and +refreshing odor. This shrub and the _yucca_, with many varieties of +cactus, make the characteristic features in the vegetation for a long +distance to the eastward. Along the foot of the mountain, 20 miles to +the southward, red stripes of flowers were visible during the morning, +which we supposed to be variegated sandstones. We rode rapidly during +the day, and in the afternoon emerged from the _yucca_ forest at the +foot of an _outlier_ of the Sierra before us, and came among the fields +of flowers we had seen in the morning, which consisted principally of +the rich orange-colored California poppy, mingled with other flowers of +brighter tints. Reaching the top of the spur, which was covered with +fine bunch-grass, and where the hills were very green, our guide +pointed to a small hollow in the mountain before us, saying, "_a este +piedra hay agua_." He appeared to know every nook in the country. We +continued our beautiful road, and reached a spring in the slope at the +foot of the ridge, running in a green ravine, among granite boulders; +here nightshade, and borders of buckwheat, with their white blossoms +around the granite rocks, attracted our notice as familiar plants. +Several antelopes were seen among the hills, and some large hares. Men +were sent back this evening in search of a wild mule with a valuable +pack, which had managed (as they frequently do) to hide itself along +the road. + +By observation, the latitude of the camp is 34° 41' 42", and longitude +118° 20' 00". The next day the men returned with the mule. + +17th.--Crossing the ridge by a beautiful pass of hollows, where several +deer broke out of the thickets, we emerged at a small salt lake in a +_vallon_ lying nearly east and west, where a trail from the mission of +_San Buenaventura_ comes in. The lake is about 1,200 yards in diameter; +surrounded on the margin by a white salty border, which, by the smell, +reminded us slightly of Lake Abert. There are some cottonwoods, with +willow and elder, around the lake; and the water is a little salt, +although not entirely unfit for drinking. Here we turned directly to +the eastward along the trail, which, from being seldom used, is almost +imperceptible; and, after traveling a few miles, our guide halted, and, +pointing to the hardly visible trail, "_aqui es camino_," said he, "_no +se pierde--va siempre_." He pointed out a black _butte_ on the plain at +the foot of the mountain, where we would find water to encamp at night; +and, giving him a present of knives and scarlet cloth, we shook hands +and parted. He bore off south, and in a day's ride would arrive at San +Fernando, one of several missions in this part of California, where the +country is so beautiful that it is considered a paradise, and the name +of its principal town (_Puebla de los Angeles_) would make it angelic. +We continued on through a succession of valleys, and came into a most +beautiful spot of flower fields; instead of green, the hills were +purple and orange, with unbroken beds, into which each color was +separately gathered. A pale straw-color, with a bright yellow, the rich +red orange of the poppy mingled with fields of purple, covered the spot +with a floral beauty; and, on the border of the sandy deserts, seemed +to invite the traveler to go no farther. Riding along through the +perfumed air, we soon after entered a defile overgrown with the ominous +_artemisia tridentata_, which conducted us into a sandy plain covered +more or less densely with forests of _yucca_. + +Having now the snowy ridge on our right, we continued our way towards a +dark _butte_, belonging to a low sierra on the plain, and which our +guide had pointed out for a landmark. Late in the day, the familiar +growth of cottonwood, a line of which was visible ahead, indicated our +approach to a creek, which we reached where the water spread out into +sands, and a little below sank entirely. Here our guide had intended we +should pass the night; but there was not a blade of grass, and, hoping +to find nearer the mountain a little for the night, we turned up the +stream. A hundred yards above, we found the creek a fine stream, +sixteen feet wide, with a swift current. A dark night overtook us when +we reached the hills at the foot of the ridge, and we were obliged to +encamp without grass; tying up what animals we could secure in the +darkness, the greater part of the wild ones having free range for the +night. Here the stream was two feet deep, swift and clear, issuing from +a neighboring snow peak. A few miles before reaching this creek, we had +crossed a broad dry riverbed, which, nearer the hills, the hunters had +found a bold and handsome stream. + +18th.--Some parties were engaged in hunting up the scattered horses, +and others in searching for grass above; both were successful, and late +in the day we encamped among some spring-heads of the river, in a +hollow which was covered with only tolerably good grasses, the lower +ground being entirely overgrown with large bunches of the coarse stiff +grass, (_carex sitchensis_.) + +Our latitude, by observation, was 34° 27' 03", and longitude 117° 13' +00". + +Traveling close along the mountain, we followed up, in the afternoon of +the 19th, another stream, in hopes to find a grass-patch like that of +the previous day, but were deceived; except some scattered bunch-grass, +there was nothing but rock and sand; and even the fertility of the +mountain seemed withered by the air of the desert. Among the few trees +was the nut pine, (_pinus monophyllus_.) + +Our road the next day was still in an easterly direction along the +ridge, over very bad traveling ground, broken and confounded with +crippled trees and shrubs; and, after a difficult march of eighteen +miles, a general shout announced that we had struck the great object of +our search--THE SPANISH TRAIL--which here was running directly north. +The road itself, and its course, were equally happy discoveries to us. +Since the middle of December we had continually been forced south by +mountains and by deserts, and now would have to make six degrees of +_northing_, to regain the latitude on which we wished to cross the +Rocky mountains. The course of the road, therefore, was what we wanted; +and, once more, we felt like going homewards. A _road_ to travel on, +and the _right_ course to go, were joyful consolations to us; and our +animals enjoyed the beaten track like ourselves. Relieved from the +rocks and brush, our wild mules started off at a rapid rate, and in +fifteen miles we reached a considerable river, timbered with cottonwood +and willow, where we found a bottom of tolerable grass. As the animals +had suffered a great deal in the last few days, I remained here all +next day, to allow them the necessary repose; and it was now necessary, +at every favorable place, to make a little halt. Between us and the +Colorado river we were aware that the country was extremely poor in +grass, and scarce for water, there being many _jornadas_, (days' +journey,) or long stretches of forty to sixty miles, without water, +where the road was marked by bones of animals. + +Although in California we had met with people who had passed over this +trail, we had been able to obtain no correct information about it; and +the greater part of what we had heard was found to be only a tissue of +falsehoods. The rivers that we found on it were never mentioned, and +others, particularly described in name and locality, were subsequently +seen in another part of the country. It was described as a tolerably +good sandy road, with so little rock as scarcely to require the animals +to be shod; and we found it the roughest and rockiest road we had ever +seen in the country, and which nearly destroyed our band of fine mules +and horses. Many animals are destroyed on it every year by a disease +called the foot-evil; and a traveler should never venture on it without +having his animals well shod, and also carrying extra shoes. + +Latitude 34° 34' 11"; and longitude 117° 13' 00". + +The morning of the 22d was clear and bright, and a snowy peak to the +southward shone out high and sharply defined. As has been usual since +we crossed the mountains and descended into the hot plains, we had a +gale of wind. We traveled down the right bank of the stream, over sands +which are somewhat loose, and have no verdure, but are occupied by +various shrubs. A clear bold stream, 60 feet wide, and several feet +deep, had a strange appearance, running between perfectly naked banks +of sand. The eye, however, is somewhat relieved by willows, and the +beautiful green of the sweet cottonwoods with which it is well wooded. +As we followed along its course, the river, instead of growing +constantly larger, gradually dwindled away, as it was absorbed by the +sand. We were now careful to take the old camping-places of the annual +Santa Fé caravans, which, luckily for us, had not yet made their yearly +passage. A drove of several thousand horses and mules would entirely +have swept away the scanty grass at the watering places, and we should +have been obliged to leave the road to obtain subsistence for our +animals. After riding 20 miles in a north-easterly direction, we found +an old encampment, where we halted. + +By observation, the elevation of this encampment is 2,250 feet. + +23d.--The trail followed still along the river, which, in the course of +the morning, entirely disappeared. We continued along the dry bed, in +which, after an interval of about 16 miles, the water reappeared in +some low places, well timbered with cottonwood and willow, where was +another of the customary camping-grounds. Here a party of six Indians +came into camp, poor and hungry, and quite in keeping with the +character of the country. Their arms were bows of unusual length, and +each had a large gourd, strengthened with meshes of cord, in which he +carried water. They proved to be the Mohahve Indians mentioned by our +recent guide; and from one of them, who spoke Spanish fluently, I +obtained some interesting information, which I would be glad to +introduce here. An account of the people inhabiting this region would +undoubtedly possess interest for the civilized world. Our journey +homewards was fruitful in incident; and the country through which we +traveled, although a desert, afforded much to excite the curiosity of +the botanist; but limited time, and the rapidly advancing season for +active operations, oblige me to omit all extended descriptions, and +hurry briefly to the conclusion of this report. + +The Indian who spoke Spanish had been educated for a number of years at +one of the Spanish missions, and, at the breaking up of those +establishments, had returned to the mountains, where he had been found +by a party of _Mohahve_ (sometimes called _Amuchaba_) Indians, among +whom he had ever since resided. + +He spoke of the leader of the present party as "_mi amo_," (my master.) +He said they lived upon a large river in the southeast, which the +"soldiers called the Rio Colorado;" but that, formerly, a portion of +them lived upon this river, and among the mountains which had bounded +the river valley to the northward during the day, and that here along +the river they had raised various kinds of melons. They sometimes came +over to trade with the Indians of the Sierra, bringing with them +blankets and goods manufactured by the Monquis and other Colorado +Indians. They rarely carried home horses, on account of the difficulty +of getting them across the desert, and of guarding them afterwards from +the Pa-utah Indians, who inhabit the Sierra, at the head of the _Rio +Virgen_, (river of the Virgin.) + +He informed us that, a short distance below, this river finally +disappeared. The two different portions in which water is found had +received from the priests two different names; and subsequently I heard +it called by the Spaniards the _Rio de las Animas_, but on the map we +have called it the _Mohahve_ river. + +24th.--We continued down the stream (or rather its bed) for about eight +miles, where there was water still in several holes, and encamped. The +caravans sometimes continued below, to the end of the river, from which +there is a very long _jornada_ of perhaps 60 miles, without water. Here +a singular and new species of acacia, with spiral pods or seed-vessels, +made its first appearance; becoming henceforward, for a considerable +distance, the characteristic tree. It was here comparatively large, +being about 20 feet in height, with a full and spreading top, the lower +branches declining towards the ground. It afterwards occurred of +smaller size, frequently in groves, and is very fragrant. It has been +called by Dr. Torrey, _spirolobium odoratum_. The zygophyllaceous shrub +had been constantly characteristic of the plains along the river; and +here, among many new plants, a new and very remarkable species of +eriogonum (_eriogonum inflatum_, Tor. & Frem.) made its first +appearance. + +Our cattle had become so tired and poor by this fatiguing traveling, +that three of them were killed here, and the meat dried. The Indians +had now an occasion for a great feast and were occupied the remainder +of the day and all night in cooking and eating. There was no part of +the animal for which they did not find some use, except the bones. In +the afternoon we were surprised by the sudden appearance in the camp of +two Mexicans--a man and a boy. The name of the man was _Andreas +Fuentes_; and that of the boy, (a handsome lad, 11 years old,) _Pablo +Hernandez_. They belonged to a party consisting of six persons, the +remaining four being the wife of Fuentes, and the father and mother of +Pablo, and Santiago Giacome, a resident of New Mexico. With a cavalcade +of about thirty horses, they had come out from Puebla de los Angeles, +near the coast, under the guidance of Giacome, in advance of the great +caravan, in order to travel more at leisure, and obtain better grass. +Having advanced as far into the desert as was considered consistent +with their safety, they halted at the _Archilette_, one of the +customary camping-grounds, about 80 miles from our encampment, where +there is a spring of good water, with sufficient grass; and concluded +to await there the arrival of the great caravan. Several Indians were +soon discovered lurking about the camp, who, in a day or two after, +came in, and, after behaving in a very friendly manner, took their +leave, without awakening any suspicions. Their deportment begat a +security which proved fatal. In a few days afterwards, suddenly a party +of about one hundred Indians appeared in sight, advancing towards the +camp. It was too late, or they seemed not to have presence of mind to +take proper measures of safety; and the Indians charged down into their +camp, shouting as they advanced, and discharging flights of arrows. +Pablo and Fuentes were on horse-guard at the time, and mounted +according to the custom of the country. One of the principal objects of +the Indians was to get possession of the horses, and part of them +immediately surrounded the band; but, in obedience to the shouts of +Giacome, Fuentes drove the animals over and through the assailants, in +spite of their arrows; and, abandoning the rest to their fate, carried +them off at speed across the plain. Knowing that they would be pursued +by the Indians, without making any halt except to shift their saddles +to other horses, they drove them on for about sixty miles, and this +morning left them at a watering-place on the trail, called Agua de +Tomaso. Without giving themselves any time for rest, they hurried on, +hoping to meet the Spanish caravan, when they discovered my camp. I +received them kindly, taking them into my own mess, and promised them +such aid as circumstances might put it in my power to give. + +25th.--We left the river abruptly, and, turning to the north, regained +in a few miles the main trail, (which had left the river sooner than +ourselves,) and continued our way across a lower ridge of the mountain, +through a miserable tract of sand and gravel. We crossed at intervals +the broad beds of dry gullies, where in the seasons of rains and +melting snows there would be brooks or rivulets: and at one of these, +where there was no indication of water, were several freshly-dug holes, +in which there was water at the depth of two feet. These holes had been +dug by the wolves, whose keen sense of smell had scented the water +under the dry sand. They were nice little wells, narrow, and dug +straight down; and we got pleasant water out of them. + +The country had now assumed the character of an elevated and +mountainous desert; its general features being black, rocky ridges, +bald, and destitute of timber, with sandy basins between. Where the +sides of these ridges are washed by gullies, the plains below are +strewed with beds of large pebbles or rolled stones, destructive to our +soft-footed animals, accustomed to the soft plains of the Sacramento +valley. Through these sandy basins sometimes struggled a scanty stream, +or occurred a hole of water, which furnished camping-grounds for +travelers. Frequently in our journey across, snow was visible on the +surrounding mountains; but their waters rarely reached the sandy plain +below, where we toiled along, oppressed with thirst and a burning sun. +But, throughout this nakedness of sand and gravel, were many beautiful +plants and flowering shrubs, which occurred in many new species, and +with greater variety than we had been accustomed to see in the most +luxuriant prairie countries; this was a peculiarity of this desert. +Even where no grass would take root, the naked sand would bloom with +some rich and rare flower, which found its appropriate home in the arid +and barren spot. + +Scattered over the plain, and tolerably abundant, was a handsome +leguminous shrub, three or four feet high, with fine bright purple +flowers. It is a new _psoralea_, and occurred frequently henceforward +along our road. + +Beyond the first ridge, our road bore a little to the east of north, +towards a gap in a higher line of mountains; and, after traveling about +25 miles, we arrived at the _Agua de Tomaso_--the spring where the +horses had been left; but, as we expected, they were gone. A brief +examination of the ground convinced us that they had been driven off by +the Indians. Carson and Godey volunteered, with the Mexican, to pursue +them; and, well mounted, the three set off on the trail. At this +stopping-place there are a few bushes, and a very little grass. Its +water was a pool; but near by was a spring, which had been dug out by +Indians or travelers. Its water was cool--a great refreshment to us +under a burning sun. + +In the evening Fuentes returned, his horse having failed; but Carson +and Godey had continued the pursuit. + +I observed to-night an occultation of _a2 Cancri_, at the dark limb of +the moon, which gives for the longitude of the place 116° 23' 28"; the +latitude, by observation, is 35° 13' 08". From Helvetia to this place, +the positions along the intervening line are laid down, with the +longitudes obtained from the chronometer, which appears to have +retained its rate remarkably well; but henceforward, to the end of our +journey, the few longitudes given are absolute, depending upon a +subsequent occultation and eclipses of the satellites. + +In the afternoon of the next day, a war-whoop was heard, such as +Indians make when returning from a victorious enterprise; and soon +Carson and Godey appeared, driving before them a band of horses, +recognised by Fuentes to be part of those they had lost. Two bloody +scalps, dangling from the end of Godey's gun, announced that they had +overtaken the Indians as well as the horses. They informed us, that +after Fuentes left them, from the failure of his horse, they continued +the pursuit alone, and towards night-fall entered the mountains, into +which the trail led. After sunset the moon gave light, and they +followed the trail by moonshine until late in the night, when it +entered a narrow defile, and was difficult to follow. Afraid of losing +it in the darkness of the defile, they tied up their horses, struck no +fire, and lay down to sleep, in silence and in darkness. Here they lay +from midnight until morning. At daylight they resumed the pursuit, and +about sunrise discovered the horses; and, immediately dismounting and +tying up their own, they crept cautiously to a rising ground which +intervened, from the crest of which they perceived the encampment of +four lodges close by. They proceeded quietly, and had got within 30 or +40 yards of their object, when a movement among the horses discovered +them to the Indians. Giving the war-shout, they instantly charged into +the camp, regardless of the number which the _four_ lodges would imply. +The Indians received them with a flight of arrows shot from their +long-bows, one of which passed through Godey's shirt-collar, barely +missing the neck: our men fired their rifles upon a steady aim, and +rushed in. Two Indians were stretched upon the ground, fatally pierced +with bullets: the rest fled, except a little lad that was captured. The +scalps of the fallen were instantly stripped off; but in the process, +one of them, who had two balls through his body, sprang to his feet, +the blood streaming from his skinned head, and uttering a hideous howl. +An old squaw, possibly his mother, stopped and looked back from the +mountainsides she was climbing, threatening and lamenting. The +frightful spectacle appalled the stout hearts of our men; but they did +what humanity required, and quickly terminated the agonies of the gory +savage. They were now masters of the camp, which was a pretty little +recess in the mountain, with a fine spring, and apparently safe from +all invasion. Great preparations had been made to feast a large party, +for it was a very proper place to rendezvous, and for the celebration +of such orgies as robbers of the desert would delight in. Several of +the best horses had been killed, skinned, and cut up; for the Indians +living in mountains, and only coming into the plains to rob and murder, +make no other use of horses than to eat them. Large earthen vessels +were on the fire, boiling and stewing the horse-beef; and several +baskets, containing 50 or 60 pairs of moccasins, indicated the +presence, or expectation, of a considerable party. They released the +boy, who had given strong evidence of the stoicism, or something else, +of the savage character, in commencing his breakfast upon a horse's +head, as soon as he found he was not to be killed, but only tied as a +prisoner. Their object accomplished, our men gathered up all the +surviving horses, fifteen in number, returned upon their trail, and +rejoined us, at our camp, in the afternoon of the same day. They had +rode about 100 miles, in the pursuit and return, and all in 30 hours. +The time, place, object, and numbers considered, this expedition of +Carson and Godey may be considered among the boldest and most +disinterested which the annals of western adventure, so full of daring +deeds, can present. Two men, in a savage desert, pursue day and night +an unknown body of Indians, into the defile of an unknown +mountain--attack them on sight, without counting numbers--and defeat +them in an instant--and for what? To punish the robbers of the desert, +and to avenge the wrongs of Mexicans whom they did not know. I repeat: +it was Carson and Godey who did this--the former an _American_, born in +the Boonslick county of Missouri; the latter a Frenchman, born in St. +Louis,--and both trained to western enterprise from early life. + +By the information of Fuentes, we had now to make a long stretch of 40 +or 50 miles across a plain which lay between us and the next possible +camp; and we resumed our journey late in the afternoon, with the +intention of traveling through the night, and avoiding the excessive +heat of the day, which was oppressive to our animals. For several hours +we traveled across a high plain, passing, at the opposite side, through +a canon by the bed of a creek, running northwardly into a small lake +beyond, and both of them being dry. We had a warm, moonshiny night; +and, traveling directly towards the north-star, we journeyed now across +an open plain, between mountain-ridges--that on the left being broken, +rocky, and bald, according to Carson and Godey, who had entered here in +pursuit of the horses. The plain appeared covered principally with the +_zygophyllum Californicum_, already mentioned; and the line of our road +was marked by the skeletons of horses, which were strewed to +considerable breadth over the plain. We were always warned on entering +one of these long stretches, by the bones of these animals, which had +perished before they could reach the water. About midnight we reached a +considerable stream-bed, now dry--the discharge of the waters of this +basin, (when it collected any)--down which we descended, in a +northwesterly direction. The creek-bed was overgrown with shrubbery, +and several hours before day it brought us to the entrance of a canon, +where we found water, and encamped. This word _canon_ is used by the +Spaniards to signify a defile or gorge in a creek or river, where high +rocks press in close, and make a narrow way, usually difficult, and +often impossible to be passed. + +In the morning we found that we had a very poor camping-ground--a +swampy, salty spot, with a little long, unwholesome grass; and the +water, which rose in springs, being useful only to wet the mouth, but +entirely too salt to drink. All around was sand and rocks, and +skeletons of horses which had not been able to find support for their +lives. As we were about to start, we found, at the distance of a few +hundred yards, among the hills to the southward, a spring of tolerably +good water, which was a relief to ourselves; but the place was too poor +to remain long, and therefore we continued on this morning. On the +creek were thickets of _spirolobium odoratum_ (acacia) in bloom, and +very fragrant. + +Passing through the canon, we entered another sandy basin, through +which the dry stream-bed continued its north-westerly course, in which +direction appeared a high snowy mountain. + +We traveled through a barren district, where a heavy gale was blowing +about the loose sand, and, after a ride of eight miles, reached a large +creek of salt and bitter water, running in a westerly direction, to +receive the stream-bed we had left. It is called by the Spaniards +_Amargosa_--the bitter-water of the desert. Where we struck it, the +stream bends; and we continued in a northerly course up the ravine of +its valley, passing on the way a fork from the right, near which +occurred a bed of plants, consisting of a remarkable new genus of +_cruciferæ_. + +Gradually ascending, the ravine opened into a green valley, where, at +the foot of the mountain, were springs of excellent water. We encamped +among groves of the new _acacia_, and there was an abundance of good +grass for the animals. + +This was the best camping-ground we had seen since we struck the +Spanish trail. The day's journey was about twelve miles. + +29th.--To-day we had to reach the _Archilette_, distant seven miles, +where the Mexican party had been attacked, and, leaving our encampment +early, we traversed a part of the desert the most sterile and repulsive +we had yet seen. Its prominent features were dark _sierras_, naked and +dry; on the plains a few straggling shrubs--among them, cactus of +several varieties. Fuentes pointed out one called by the Spaniards +_bisnada_, which has a juicy pulp, slightly acid, and is eaten by the +traveler to allay thirst. Our course was generally north; and, after +crossing an intervening ridge, we descended into a sandy plain, or +basin, in the middle of which was the grassy spot, with its springs and +willow bushes, which constitutes a camping-place in the desert, and is +called the _Archilette_. The dead silence of the place was ominous; +and, galloping rapidly up, we found only the corpses of the two men: +every thing else was gone. They were naked, mutilated, and pierced with +arrows. Hernandez had evidently fought, and with desperation. He lay in +advance of the willow half-faced tent, which sheltered his family, as +if he had come out to meet danger, and to repulse it from that asylum. +One of his hands, and both his legs, had been cut off. Giacome, who was +a large and strong-looking man, was lying in one of the willow +shelters, pierced with arrows. + +Of the women no trace could be found, and it was evident they had been +carried off captive. A little lap-dog, which had belonged to Pablo's +mother, remained with the dead bodies, and was frantic with joy at +seeing Pablo; he, poor child, was frantic with grief, and filled the +air with lamentations for his father and mother. _Mi Padre! Mi +Madre!_--was his incessant cry. When we beheld this pitiable sight, and +pictured to ourselves the fate of the two women, carried off by savages +so brutal and so loathsome, all compunction for the scalped-alive +Indian ceased; and we rejoiced that Carson and Godey had been able to +give so useful a lesson to these American Arabs who lie in wait to +murder and plunder the innocent traveler. + +We were all too much affected by the sad feelings which the place +inspired, to remain an unnecessary moment. The night we were obliged to +pass there. Early in the morning we left it, having first written a +brief account of what had happened, and put it in the cleft of a pole +planted at the spring, that the approaching caravan might learn the +fate of their friends. In commemoration of the event, we called the +place _Ague de Hernandez_--Hernandez's spring. By observation, its +latitude was 35° 51' 21". + +30th.--We continued our journey over a district similar to that of the +day before. From the sandy basin, in which was the spring, we entered +another basin of the same character, surrounded everywhere by +mountains. Before us stretched a high range, rising still higher to the +left, and terminating in a snowy mountain. + +After a day's march of 24 miles, we reached at evening the bed of a +stream from which the water had disappeared, a little only remaining in +holes, which we increased by digging; and about a mile above, the +stream, not yet entirely sunk, was spread out over the sands, affording +a little water for the animals. The stream came out of the mountains on +the left, very slightly wooded with cottonwood, willow, and acacia, and +a few dwarf-oaks; and grass was nearly as scarce as water. A plant with +showy yellow flowers (_Stanleya integrifolia_) occurred abundantly at +intervals for the last two days, and _eriogonum inflatum_ was among the +characteristic plants. + + + +MAY. + + +1st.--The air is rough, and overcoats pleasant. The sky is blue, and +the day bright. Our road was over a plain, towards the foot of the +mountain; _zygophyllum Californicum_, now in bloom, with a small yellow +flower, is characteristic of the country; and _cacti_ were very +abundant, and in rich fresh bloom, which wonderfully ornaments this +poor country. We encamped at a spring in the pass, which had been the +site of an old village. Here we found excellent grass, but very little +water. We dug out the old spring, and watered some of our animals. The +mountain here was wooded very slightly with the nut-pine, cedars, and a +dwarf species of oak; and among the shrubs were _Purshia tridentata, +artemisia_, and _ephedra occidentalis_. The numerous shrubs which +constitute the vegetation of the plains are now in bloom, with flowers +of white, yellow, red, and purple. The continual rocks, and want of +water and grass, began to be very hard on our mules and horses; but the +principal loss is occasioned by their crippled feet, the greater part +of those left being in excellent order, and scarcely a day passes +without some loss; and, one by one, Fuentes' horses are constantly +dropping behind. Whenever they give out, he dismounts and cuts off +their tails and manes, to make saddle-girths--the last advantage one +can gain from them. + +The next day, in a short but rough ride of 12 miles, we crossed the +mountain; and, descending to a small valley plain, encamped at the foot +of the ridge, on the bed of a creek, and found good grass in sufficient +quantity, and abundance of water in holes. The ridge is extremely +rugged and broken, presenting on this side a continued precipice, and +probably affords very few passes. Many _digger_ tracks were seen around +us, but no Indians were visible. + +3d.--After a day's journey of 18 miles, in a northeasterly direction, +we encamped in the midst of another very large basin, at a camping +ground called _las Vegas_--a term which the Spaniards use to signify +fertile or marshy plains, in contradistinction to _llanos_, which they +apply to dry and sterile plains. Two narrow streams of clear water, +four or five feet deep, gush suddenly, with a quick current, from two +singularly large springs; these, and other waters of the basin, pass +out in a gap to the eastward. The taste of the water is good, but +rather too warm to be agreeable; the temperature being 71° in the one, +and 73° in the other. They, however, afford a delightful bathing-place. + +4th.--We started this morning earlier than usual, traveling in a +northeasterly direction across the plain. The new acacia (_spirolobium +odoratum_) has now become the characteristic tree of the country; it is +in bloom, and its blossoms are very fragrant. The day was still, and +the heat, which soon became very oppressive, appeared to bring out +strongly the refreshing scent of the zygophyllaceous shrubs and the +sweet perfume of the acacia. The snowy ridge we had just crossed looked +out conspicuously in the northwest. In about five hours' ride, we +crossed a gap in the surrounding ridge, and the appearance of skeletons +of horses very soon warned us that we were engaged in another dry +_jornada_, which proved the longest we had made in all our +journey--between fifty and sixty miles without a drop of water. + +Travelers through countries affording water and timber can have no +conception of our intolerable thirst while journeying over the hot +yellow sands of this elevated country, where the heated air seems to be +entirely deprived of moisture. We ate occasionally the _bisnada_, and +moistened our mouths with the acid of the sour dock, (_rumex venosus_.) +Hourly expecting to find water, we continued to press on until towards +midnight, when, after a hard and uninterrupted march of 16 hours, our +wild mules began running ahead; and in a mile or two we came to a bold +running stream--so keen is the sense of that animal, in these desert +regions, in scenting at a distance this necessary of life. + +According to the information we had received, Sevier river was a +tributary of the Colorado; and this, accordingly, should have been one +of its affluents. It proved to be the _Rio de los Angeles_, (river of +the Angels)--a branch of the _Rio Virgen_. (river of the Virgin.) + +5th.--On account of our animals, it was necessary to remain to-day at +this place. Indians crowded numerously around us in the morning; and we +were obliged to keep arms in hand all day, to keep them out of the +camp. They began to surround the horses, which, for the convenience of +grass, we were guarding a little above, on the river. These were +immediately driven in, and kept close to the camp. + +In the darkness of the night we had made a very bad encampment, our +fires being commanded by a rocky bluff within 50 yards; but, +notwithstanding, we had the river and small thickets of willows on the +other side. Several times during the day the camp was insulted by the +Indians; but, peace being our object, I kept simply on the defensive. +Some of the Indians were on the bottoms, and others haranguing us from +the bluffs; and they were scattered in every direction over the hills. +Their language being probably a dialect of the _Utah_, with the aid of +signs some of our people could comprehend them very well. They were the +same people who had murdered the Mexicans; and towards us their +disposition was evidently hostile, nor were we well disposed towards +them. They were barefooted, and nearly naked; their hair gathered up +into a knot behind; and with his bow, each man carried a quiver with +thirty or forty arrows partially drawn out. Besides these, each held in +his hand two or three arrows for instant service. Their arrows are +barbed with a very clear translucent stone, a species of opal, nearly +as hard as the diamond; and, shot from their long bow, are almost as +effective as a gunshot. In these Indians, I was forcibly struck by an +expression of countenance resembling that in a beast of prey; and all +their actions are those of wild animals. Joined to the restless motion +of the eye, there is a want of mind--an absence of thought--and an +action wholly by impulse, strongly expressed, and which constantly +recalls the similarity. + +A man who appeared to be a chief, with two or three others forced +himself into the camp, bringing with him his arms, in spite of my +orders to the contrary. When shown our weapons, he bored his ear with +his fingers, and said he could not hear. "Why," said he, "there are +none of you." Counting the people around the camp, and including in the +number a mule that was being shod, he made out 22. "So many," said he, +showing the number, "and we--we are a great many;" and he pointed to +the hills and mountains round about. "If you have your arms," said he, +twanging his bow, "we have these." I had some difficulty in restraining +the people, particularly Carson, who felt an insult of this kind as +much as if it had been given by a more responsible being. "Don't say +that, old man," said he; "don't you say that--your life's in +danger"--speaking in good English; and probably the old man was nearer +to his end than he will be before he meets it. + +Several animals had been necessarily left behind near the camp last +night; and early in the morning, before me Indians made their +appearance, several men were sent to bring them in. When I was +beginning to be uneasy at their absence, they returned with information +that they had been driven off from the trail by Indians; and, having +followed the tracks in a short distance, they found the animals cut up +and spread out upon bushes. In the evening I gave a fatigued horse to +some of the Indians for a feast; and the village which carried him off +refused to share with the others, who made loud complaints from the +rocks of the partial distribution. Many of these Indians had long +sticks, hooked at the end, which they use in hauling out lizards, and +other small animals, from their holes. During the day they occasionally +roasted and ate lizards at our fires. These belong to the people who +are generally known under the name of _Diggers_; and to these I have +more particularly had reference when occasionally speaking of a people +whose sole occupation is to procure food sufficient to support +existence. The formation here consists of fine yellow sandstone, +alternating with a coarse conglomerate, in which the stones are from +the size of ordinary gravel to six or eight inches in diameter. This is +the formation which renders the surface of the country so rocky, and +gives us now a road alternately of loose heavy sands and rolled stones, +which cripple the animals in a most extraordinary manner. + +On the following morning we left the _Rio de los Angeles_, and +continued our way through the same desolate and revolting country, +where lizards were the only animal, and the tracks of the lizard eaters +the principal sign of human beings. After twenty miles' march through a +road of hills and heavy sands, we reached the most dreary river I have +ever seen--a deep rapid stream, almost a torrent, passing swiftly by, +and roaring against obstructions. The banks were wooded with willow, +acacia, and a frequent plant of the country already mentioned, (_Garrya +elliptica_,) growing in thickets, resembling willow, and bearing a +small pink flower. Crossing it we encamped on the left bank, where we +found a very little grass. Our three remaining steers, being entirely +given out, were killed here. By the boiling point, the elevation of the +river here is 4,060 feet; and latitude, by observation, 36°41' 33". The +stream was running towards the southwest, and appeared to come from a +snowy mountain in the north. It proved to be the _Rio Virgen_--a +tributary to the Colorado. Indians appeared in bands on the hills, but +did not come into camp. For several days we continued our journey up +the river, the bottoms of which were thickly overgrown with various +kinds of brush; and the sandy soil was absolutely covered with the +tracks of _Diggers_, who followed us stealthily, like a band of wolves; +and we had no opportunity to leave behind, even for a few hours, the +tired animals, in order that they might be brought into camp after a +little repose. A horse or mule, left behind, was taken off in a moment. +On the evening of the 8th, having traveled 28 miles up the river from +our first encampment on it, we encamped at a little grass-plat, where a +spring of cool water issued from the bluff. On the opposite side was a +grove of cottonwoods at the mouth of a fork, which here enters the +river. On either side the valley is bounded by ranges of mountains, +everywhere high, rocky, and broken. The caravan road was lost and +scattered in the sandy country, and we had been following an Indian +trail up the river. The hunters the next day were sent out to +reconnoitre, and in the mean time we moved about a mile farther up, +where we found a good little patch of grass. There being only +sufficient grass for the night, the horses were sent with a strong +guard in charge of Tabeau to a neighboring hollow, where they might +pasture during the day; and, to be ready in case the Indians should +make any attempt on the animals, several of the best horses were +picketed at the camp. In a few hours the hunters returned, having found +a convenient ford in the river, and discovered the Spanish trail on the +other side. + +I had been engaged in arranging plants; and, fatigued with the heat of +the day, I fell asleep in the afternoon, and did not awake until +sundown. Presently Carson came to me, and reported that Tabeau, who +early in the day had left his post, and, without my knowledge, rode +back to the camp we had left, in search of a lame mule, had not +returned. While we were speaking, a smoke rose suddenly from the +cottonwood grove below, which plainly told us what had befallen him; it +was raised to inform the surrounding Indians that a blow had been +struck, and to tell them to be on their guard. Carson, with several men +well mounted, was instantly sent down the river, but returned in the +night without tidings of the missing man. They went to the camp we had +left, but neither he nor the mule was there. Searching down the river, +they found the tracks of the mule, evidently driven along by Indians, +whose tracks were on each side of those made by the animal. After going +several miles, they came to the mule itself, standing in some bushes, +mortally wounded in the side by an arrow, and left to die, that it +might be afterwards butchered for food. They also found, in another +place, as they were hunting about on the ground for Tabeau's tracks, +something that looked like a little puddle of blood, but which the +darkness prevented them from verifying. With these details they +returned to our camp, and their report saddened all our hearts. + +10th.--This morning, as soon as there was light enough to follow +tracks, I set out myself, with Mr. Fitzpatrick and several men, in +search of Tabeau. We went to the spot where the appearance of puddled +blood had been seen; and this, we saw at once, had been the place where +he fell and died. Blood upon the leaves, and beaten-down bushes, showed +that he had got his wound about twenty paces from where he fell, and +that he had struggled for his life. He had probably been shot through +the lungs with an arrow. From the place where he lay and bled, it could +be seen that he had been dragged to the river bank, and thrown into it. +No vestige of what had belonged to him could be found, except a +fragment of his horse equipment. Horse, gun, clothes--all became the +prey of these Arabs of the New World. + +Tabeau had been one of our best men, and his unhappy death spread a +gloom over our party. Men, who have gone through such dangers and +sufferings as we had seen, become like brothers, and feel each other's +loss. To defend and avenge each other, is the deep feeling of all. We +wished to avenge his death; but the condition of our horses, +languishing for grass and repose, forbade an expedition into unknown +mountains. We knew the tribe who had done the mischief--the same which +had been insulting our camp. They knew what they deserved, and had the +discretion to show themselves to us no more. The day before, they +infested our camp; now, not one appeared; nor did we ever afterwards +see but one who even belonged to the same tribe, and he at a distance. + +Our camp was in a basin below a deep canon--a gap of two thousand feet +deep in the mountain--through which the _Rio Virgen_ passes, and where +no man or beast could follow it. The Spanish trail, which we had lost +in the sands of the basin, was on the opposite side of the river. We +crossed over to it, and followed it northwardly towards a gap which was +visible in the mountain. We approached it by a defile, rendered +difficult for our barefooted animals by the rocks strewed along it; and +here the country changed its character. From the time we entered the +desert, the mountains had been bald and rocky; here they began to be +wooded with cedar and pine, and clusters of trees gave shelter to +birds--a new and welcome sight--which could not have lived in the +desert we had passed. + +Descending a long hollow, towards the narrow valley of a stream, we saw +before us a snowy mountain, far beyond which appeared another more +lofty still. Good bunch-grass began to appear on the hill-sides, and +here we found a singular variety of interesting shrubs. The changed +appearance of the country infused among our people a more lively +spirit, which was heightened by finding at evening a halting-place of +very good grass on the clear waters of the _Santa Clara_ fork of the +_Rio Virgen_. + +11th.--The morning was cloudy and quite cool, with a shower of +rain--the first we have had since entering the desert, a period of 27 +days--and we seem to have entered a different climate, with the usual +weather of the Rocky mountains. Our march to-day was very laborious, +over very broken ground, along the Santa Clara river; but then the +country is no longer so distressingly desolate. The stream is prettily +wooded with sweet cottonwood trees--some of them of large size; and on +the hills, where the nut-pine is often seen, a good and wholesome grass +occurs frequently. This cottonwood, which is now in fruit, is of a +different species from any in Michaux's Sylva. Heavy dark clouds +covered the sky in the evening and a cold wind sprang up, making fires +and overcoats comfortable. + +12th.--A little above our encampment the river forked, and we continued +up the right-hand branch, gradually ascending towards the summit of the +mountain. As we rose towards the head of the creek, the snowy mountains +on our right showed out handsomely--high and rugged, with precipices, +and covered with snow for about two thousand feet from their summits +down. Our animals were somewhat repaid for their hard marches by an +excellent camping-ground on the summit of the ridge, which forms here +the dividing chain between the waters of the _Rio Virgen_, which goes +south to the Colorado, and those of Sevier river, flowing northwardly, +and belonging to the Great Basin. We considered ourselves as crossing +the rim of the basin; and, entering it at this point, we found here an +extensive mountain meadow, rich in bunch-grass, and fresh with numerous +springs of clear water, all refreshing and delightful to look upon. It +was, in fact, that _las Vegas de Santa Clara_, which had been so long +presented to us as the terminating point of the desert, and where the +annual caravan from California to New Mexico halted and recruited for +some weeks. It was a very suitable place to recover from the fatigue +and exhaustion of a month's suffering in the hot and sterile desert. +The meadow was about a mile wide, some ten miles long, bordered by +grassy hills and mountains--some of the latter rising two thousand +feet, and white with snow down to the level of the _vegas_. Its +elevation above the sea was 5,280 feet; latitude, by observation, 37° +28' 28", and its distance from where we first struck the Spanish trail +about 400 miles. Counting from the time we reached the desert, and +began to skirt, at our descent from Walker's Pass in the Sierra Nevada, +we had traveled 550 miles, occupying 27 days, in that inhospitable +region. In passing before the Great Caravan, we had the advantage of +finding more grass, but the disadvantage of finding also the marauding +savages, who had gathered down upon the trail, waiting the approach of +that prey. This greatly increased our labors, besides costing us the +life of an excellent man. We had to move all day in a state of watch, +and prepared for combat--scouts and flankers out, a front and rear +division of our men, and baggage-animals in the centre. At night, camp +duty was severe. Those who had toiled all day, had to guard, by turns, +the camp and the horses, all night. Frequently one-third of the whole +party were on guard at once; and nothing but this vigilance saved us +from attack. We were constantly dogged by bands, and even whole tribes +of marauders; and although Tabeau was killed, and our camp infested and +insulted by some, while swarms of them remained on the hills and +mountain-sides, there was manifestly a consultation and calculation +going on, to decide the question of attacking us. Having reached the +resting-place of the _Vegas de Santa Clara_, we had complete relief +from the heat and privations of the desert, and some relaxation from +the severity of camp duty. Some relaxation, and relaxation only--for +camp-guards, horse-guards, and scouts, are indispensable from the time +of leaving the frontiers of Missouri until we return to them. + +After we left the _Vegas_, we had the gratification to be joined by the +famous hunter and trapper, Mr. Joseph Walker, whom I have before +mentioned, and who now became our guide. He had left California with +the great caravan; and perceiving, from the signs along the trail, that +there was a party of whites ahead, which he judged to be mine, he +detached himself from the caravan, with eight men, (Americans,) and ran +the gauntlet of the desert robbers, killing two, and getting some of +the horses wounded, and succeeded in overtaking us. Nothing but his +great knowledge of the country, great courage and presence of mind, and +good rifles, could have brought him safe from such a perilous +enterprise. + +13th.--We remained one day at this noted place of rest and refreshment; +and, resuming our progress in a northwestwardly direction, we descended +into a broad valley, the water of which is tributary to Sevier lake. +The next day we came in sight of the Wahsatch range of mountains on the +right, white with snow, and here forming the southeast part of the +Great Basin. Sevier lake, upon the waters of which we now were, +belonged to the system of lakes in the eastern part of the Basin--of +which, the Great Salt lake, and its southern limb, the Utah lake, were +the principal--towards the region of which we were now approaching. We +traveled for several days in this direction, within the rim of the +Great Basin, crossing little streams which bore to the left for Sevier +lake; and plainly seeing, by the changed aspect of the country, that we +were entirely clear of the desert, and approaching the regions which +appertained to the system of the Rocky mountains. We met, in this +traverse, a few mounted Utah Indians, in advance of their main body, +watching the approach of the great caravan. + +16th.--We reached a small salt lake, about seven miles long and one +broad, at the northern extremity of which we encamped for the night. +This little lake, which well merits its characteristic name, lies +immediately at the base of the Wah-satch range, and nearly opposite a +gap in that chain of mountains through which the Spanish trail passes; +and which, again falling upon the waters of the Colorado, and crossing +that river, proceeds over a mountainous country to Santa Fé. + +17th.--After 440 miles of traveling on a trail, which served for a +road, we again found ourselves under the necessity of exploring a track +through the wilderness. The Spanish trail had borne off to the +southeast, crossing the Wah-satch range. Our course led to the +northeast, along the foot of that range, and leaving it on the right. +The mountain presented itself to us under the form of several ridges, +rising one above the other, rocky, and wooded with pine and cedar; the +last ridge covered with snow. Sevier river, flowing northwardly to the +lake of the same name, collects its principal waters from this section +of the Wah-satch chain. We had now entered a region of great pastoral +promise, abounding with fine streams, the rich bunch-grass, soil that +would produce wheat, and indigenous flax growing as if it had been +sown. Consistent with the general character of its bordering mountains, +this fertility of soil and vegetation does not extend far into the +Great Basin. Mr. Joseph Walker, our guide, and who has more knowledge +of these parts than any man I know, informed me that all the country to +the left was unknown to him, and that even the _Digger_ tribes, which +frequented Lake Sevier, could tell him nothing about it. + +20th.--We met a band of Utah Indians, headed by a well-known chief, who +had obtained the American or English name of Walker, by which he is +quoted and well known. They were all mounted, armed with rifles, and +used their rifles well. The chief had a fusee, which he carried slung, +in addition to his rifle. They were journeying slowly towards the +Spanish trail, to levy their usual tribute upon the great California +caravan. They were robbers of a higher order than those of the desert. +They conducted their depredations with form, and under the color of +trade and toll, for passing through their country. Instead of attacking +and killing, they affect to purchase--taking the horses they like, and +giving something nominal in return. The chief was quite civil to me. He +was personally acquainted with his namesake, our guide, who made my +name known to him. He knew of my expedition of 1842; and, as tokens of +friendship, and proof that we had met, proposed an interchange of +presents. We had no great store to choose out of; so he gave me a +Mexican blanket, and I gave him a very fine one which I had obtained at +Vancouver. + +23d.--We reached Sevier river--the main tributary of the lake of the +same name--which, deflecting from its northern course, here breaks from +the mountains to enter the lake. It was really a fine river, from eight +to twelve feet deep; and after searching in vain for a fordable place, +we made little boats (or rather rafts) out of bulrushes, and ferried +across. These rafts are readily made, and give a good conveyance across +a river. The rushes are bound in bundles, and tied hard; the bundles +are tied down upon poles, as close as they can be pressed, and +fashioned like a boat, in being broader in the middle and pointed at +the ends. The rushes, being tubular and jointed, are light and strong. +The raft swims well, and is shoved along by poles, or paddled, or +pushed and pulled by swimmers, or drawn by ropes. On this occasion, we +used ropes--one at each end--and rapidly drew our little float +backwards and forwards from shore to shore. The horses swam. At our +place of crossing, which was the most northern point of its bend, the +latitude was 39° 22' 19". The banks sustained the character for +fertility and vegetation which we had seen for some days. The name of +this river and lake was an indication of our approach to regions of +which our people had been the explorers. It was probably named after +some American trapper or hunter, and was the first American name we had +met with since leaving the Columbia river. From the Dalles to the point +where we turned across the Sierra Nevada, near 1,000 miles, we heard +Indian names, and the greater part of the distance none; from Nueva +Helvetia (Sacramento) to _las Vegas de Santa Clara_, about 1,000 more, +all were Spanish; from the Mississippi to the Pacific, French and +American or English were intermixed; and this prevalence of names +indicates the national character of the first explorers. + +We had here the misfortune to lose one of our people, François Badeau, +who had been with me on both expeditions; during which he had always +been one of my most faithful and efficient men. He was killed in +drawing towards him a gun by the muzzle; the hammer being caught, +discharged the gun, driving the ball through his head. We buried him on +the banks of the river. + +Crossing the next day a slight ridge along the river, we entered a +handsome mountain valley covered with fine grass, and directed our +course towards a high snowy peak, at the foot of which lay the Utah +lake. On our right was a bed of high mountains, their summits covered +with snow, constituting the dividing ridge between the Basin waters and +those of the Colorado. At noon we fell in with a party of Utah Indians +coming out of the mountain, and in the afternoon encamped on a +tributary to the lake, which is separated from the waters of the Sevier +by very slight dividing grounds. + +Early the next day we came in sight of the lake; and, as we descended +to the broad bottoms of the Spanish fork, three horsemen were seen +galloping towards us, who proved to be Utah Indians--scouts from a +village, which was encamped near the mouth of the river. They were +armed with rifles, and their horses were in good condition. We encamped +near them, on the Spanish fork, which is one of the principal +tributaries to the lake. Finding the Indians troublesome, and desirous +to remain here a day, we removed the next morning farther down the lake +and encamped on a fertile bottom near the foot of the same mountainous +ridge which borders the Great Salt lake, and along which we had +journeyed the previous September. Here the principal plants in bloom +were two, which were remarkable as affording to the Snake Indians--the +one an abundant supply of food, and the other the most useful among the +applications which they use for wounds. These were the kooyah plant, +growing in fields of extraordinary luxuriance, and _convollaria +stellata_, which, from the experience of Mr. Walker, is the best +remedial plant known among these Indians. A few miles below us was +another village of Indians, from which we obtained some fish--among +them a few salmon trout, which were very much inferior in size to those +along the Californian mountains. The season for taking them had not yet +arrived; but the Indians were daily expecting them to come up out of +the lake. + +We had now accomplished an object we had in view when leaving the +Dalles of the Columbia in November last: we had reached the Utah lake; +but by a route very different from the one we had intended, and without +sufficient time remaining to make the examinations which we desired. It +is a lake of note in this country, under the dominion of the Utahs, who +resort to it for fish. Its greatest breadth is about fifteen miles, +stretching far to the north, narrowing as it goes, and connecting with +the Great Salt lake. This is the report, which I believe to be correct; +but it is fresh water, while the other is not only salt, but a +saturated solution of salt; and here is a problem which requires to be +solved. It is almost entirely surrounded by mountains, walled on the +north and east by a high and snowy range, which supplies to it a fan of +tributary streams. Among these, the principal river is the +_Timpan-ogo_--signifying Rock river--a name which the rocky grandeur of +its scenery, remarkable even in this country of rugged mountains, has +obtained for it from the Indians. In the Utah language, _og-wah-be_, +the term for river, when coupled with other words in common +conversation, is usually abbreviated to _ogo; timpan_ signifying rock. +It is probable that this river furnished the name which on the older +maps has been generally applied to the Great Salt lake; but for this I +have preferred a name which will be regarded as highly characteristic, +restricting to the river the descriptive term Timpan-ogo, and leaving +for the lake into which it flows the name of the people who reside on +its shores, and by which it is known throughout the country. + +The volume of water afforded by the Timpan-ogo is probably equal to +that of the Sevier river; and, at the time of our visit, there was only +one place in the lake-valley at which the Spanish fork was fordable. In +the cove of the mountains along its eastern shore, the lake is bordered +by a plain, where the soil is generally good, and in greater part +fertile; watered by a delta of prettily timbered streams. This would be +an excellent locality for stock-farms; it is generally covered with +good bunch-grass, and would abundantly produce the ordinary grains. + +In arriving at the Utah lake, we had completed an immense circuit of +twelve degrees diameter north and south, and ten degrees east and west; +and found ourselves, in May, 1844, on the same sheet of water which we +had left in September, 1843. The Utah is the southern limb of the Great +Salt lake; and thus we had seen that remarkable sheet of water both at +its northern and southern extremity, and were able to fix its position +at these two points. The circuit which we had made, and which had cost +us eight months of time, and 3,500 miles of traveling, had given us a +view of Oregon and of North California from the Rocky mountains to the +Pacific ocean, and of the two principal streams which form bays or +harbors on the coast of that sea. Having completed this circuit, and +being now about to turn the back upon the Pacific slope of our +continent, and to recross the Rocky mountains, it is natural to look +back upon our footsteps, and take some brief view of the leading +features and general structure of the country we had traversed. These +are peculiar and striking, and differ essentially from the Atlantic +side of the country. The mountains all are higher, more numerous, and +more distinctly defined in their ranges and directions; and, what is so +contrary to the natural order of formations, one of these ranges, which +is near the coast, (the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range,) presents +higher elevations and peaks than any which are to be found in the Rocky +mountains themselves. In our eight months' circuit, we were never out +of sight of snow; and the Sierra Nevada, where we crossed it, was near +2,000 feet higher than the South Pass in the Rocky mountains. In +height, these mountains greatly exceed those of the Atlantic side, +constantly presenting peaks which enter the region of eternal snow; and +some of them volcanic, and in a frequent state of activity. They are +seen at great distances, and guide the traveler in his course. + +The course and elevation of these ranges give direction to the rivers +and character to the coast. No great river does, or can, take its rise +below the Cascade and Sierra Nevada range; the distance to the sea is +too short to admit of it. The rivers of the San Francisco bay, which +are the largest after the Columbia, are local to that bay, and lateral +to the coast, having their sources about on a line with the Dalles of +the Columbia, and running each in a valley of its own, between the +Coast range and the Cascade and Sierra Nevada range. The Columbia is +the only river which traverses the whole breadth of the country, +breaking through all the ranges, and entering the sea. Drawing its +waters from a section of ten degrees of latitude in the Rocky +mountains, which are collected into one stream by three main forks +(Lewis's, Clark's, and the North fork) near the centre of the Oregon +valley, this great river thence proceeds by a single channel to the +sea, while its three forks lead each to a pass in the mountains, which +opens the way into the interior of the continent. This fact in relation +to the rivers of this region, gives an immense value to the Columbia. +Its mouth is the only inlet and outlet to and from the sea: its three +forks lead to the passes in the mountains: it is, therefore, the only +line of communication between the Pacific and the interior of North +America; and all operations of war or commerce, of national or social +intercourse, must be conducted upon it. This gives it a value beyond +estimation, and would involve irreparable injury if lost. In this unity +and concentration of its waters, the Pacific side of our continent +differs entirely from the Atlantic side, where the waters of the +Alleghany mountains are dispersed into many rivers, having their +different entrances into the sea, and opening many lines of +communication with the interior. + +The Pacific coast is equally different from that of the Atlantic. The +coast of the Atlantic is low and open, indented with numerous bays, +sounds, and river estuaries, accessible everywhere, and opening by many +channels into the heart of the country. The Pacific coast, on the +contrary, is high and compact, with few bays, and but one that opens +into the heart of the country. The immediate coast is what the seamen +call _iron-bound_. A little within, it is skirted by two successive +ranges of mountains, standing as ramparts between the sea and the +interior of the country; and to get through which there is but one +gate, and that narrow and easily defended. This structure of the coast, +backed by these two ranges of mountains, with its concentration and +unity of waters, gives to the country an immense military strength, and +will probably render Oregon the most impregnable country in the world. + +Differing so much from the Atlantic side of our continent, in coast, +mountains, and rivers, the Pacific side differs from it in another most +rare and singular feature--that of the Great Interior Basin, of which I +have so often spoken, and the whole form and character of which I was +so anxious to ascertain. Its existence is vouched for by such of the +American traders and hunters as have some knowledge of that region; the +structure of the Sierra Nevada range of mountains requires it to be +there; and my own observations confirm it. Mr. Joseph Walker, who is so +well acquainted in these parts, informed me that, from the Great Salt +lake west, there was a succession of lakes and rivers which have no +outlet to the sea, nor any connection with the Columbia, or with the +Colorado of the Gulf of California. He described some of these lakes as +being large, with numerous streams, and even considerable rivers +falling into them. In fact, all concur in the general report of these +interior rivers and lakes; and, for want of understanding the force and +power of evaporation, which so soon establishes an equilibrium between +the loss and supply of waters, the fable of whirlpools and +subterraneous outlets has gained belief, as the only imaginable way of +carrying off the waters which have no visible discharge. The structure +of the country would require this formation of interior lakes; for the +waters which would collect between the Rocky mountains and the Sierra +Nevada, not being able to cross this formidable barrier, nor to get to +the Columbia or the Colorado, must naturally collect into reservoirs, +each of which would have its little system of streams and rivers to +supply it. This would be the natural effect; and what I saw went to +confirm it. The Great Salt lake is a formation of this kind, and quite +a large one; and having many streams, and one considerable river, 400 +or 500 miles long, falling into it. This lake and river I saw and +examined myself; and also saw the Wah-satch and Bear River mountains, +which enclose the waters of the lake on the east, and constitute, in +that quarter, the rim of the Great Basin. Afterwards, along the eastern +base of the Sierra Nevada, where we traveled for 42 days, I saw the +line of lakes and rivers which lie at the foot of that Sierra; and +which Sierra is the western rim of the Basin. In going down Lewis's +fork and the main Columbia, I crossed only inferior streams coming in +from the left, such as could draw their water from a short distance +only; and I often saw the mountains at their heads white with +snow,--which, all accounts said, divided the waters of the _desert_ +from those of the Columbia, and which could be no other than the range +of mountains which form the rim of the Basin on its northern side. And +in returning from California along the Spanish trail, as far as the +head of the Santa Clara fork of the Rio Virgen, I crossed only small +streams making their way south to the Colorado, or lost in sand, (as +the Mo-hah-ve;) while to the left, lofty mountains, their summits white +with snow, were often visible, and which must have turned water to the +north as well as to the south, and thus constituted, on this part, the +southern rim of the Basin. At the head of the Santa Clara fork, and in +the Vegas de Santa Clara, we crossed the ridge which parted the two +systems of waters. We entered the Basin at that point, and have +traveled in it ever since; having its southeastern rim (the Wah-satch +mountain) on the right, and crossing the streams which flow down into +it. The existence of the Basin is, therefore, an established fact in my +mind: its extent and contents are yet to be better ascertained. It +cannot be less than 400 or 500 miles each way, and must lie principally +in the Alta California; the demarcation latitude of 42° probably +cutting a segment from the north part of the rim. Of its interior, but +little is known. It is called a _desert_, and, from what I saw of it, +sterility may be its prominent characteristic; but where there is so +much water, there must be some _oasis_. The great river, and the great +lake, reported, may not be equal to the report; but where there is so +much snow, there must be streams; and where there is no outlet, there +must be lakes to hold the accumulated waters, or sands to swallow them +up. In this eastern part of the Basin, containing Sevier, Utah, and the +Great Salt lakes, and the rivers and creeks falling into them, we know +there is good soil and good grass, adapted to civilized settlements. In +the western part, on Salmon Trout river, and some other streams, the +same remark may be made. + +The contents of this great Basin are yet to be examined. That it is +peopled, we know; but miserably and sparsely. From all that I heard and +saw, I should say that humanity here appeared in its lowest form, and +in its most elementary state. Dispersed in single families; without +fire-arms; eating seeds and insects; digging roots, (and hence their +name,)--such is the condition of the greater part. Others are a degree +higher, and live in communities upon some lake or river that supplies +fish, and from which they repulse the miserable _Digger_. The rabbit is +the largest animal known in this desert; its flesh affords a little +meat; and their bag-like covering is made of its skins. The wild sage +is their only wood, and here it is of extraordinary size--sometimes a +foot in diameter, and six or eight feet high. It serves for fuel, for +building material, for shelter to the rabbits, and for some sort of +covering for the feet and legs in cold weather. Such are the accounts +of the inhabitants and productions of the Great Basin; and which, +though imperfect, must have some foundation, and excite our desire to +know the whole. + +The whole idea of such a desert, and such a people, is a novelty in our +country, and excites Asiatic, not American ideas. Interior basins, with +their own systems of lakes and rivers, and often sterile, are common +enough in Asia; people still in the elementary state of families, +living in deserts, with no other occupation than the mere animal search +for food, may still be seen in that ancient quarter of the globe; but +in America such things are new and strange, unknown and unsuspected, +and discredited when related. But I flatter myself that what is +discovered, though not enough to satisfy curiosity, is sufficient to +excite it, and that subsequent explorations will complete what has been +commenced. + +This account of the Great Basin, it will be remembered, belongs to the +Alta California, and has no application to Oregon, whose capabilities +may justify a separate remark. Referring to my journal for particular +descriptions, and for sectional boundaries between good and bad +districts, I can only say, in general and comparative terms, that, in +that branch of agriculture which implies the cultivation of grains and +staple crops, it would be inferior to the Atlantic States, though many +parts are superior for wheat; while in the rearing of flocks and herds +it would claim a high place. Its grazing capabilities are great; and +even in the indigenous grass now there, an element of individual and +national wealth may be found. In fact, the valuable grasses begin +within one hundred and fifty miles of the Missouri frontier, and extend +to the Pacific ocean. East of the Rocky mountains, it is the short +curly grass, on which the buffalo delights to feed, (whence its name of +buffalo,) and which is still good when dry and apparently dead. West of +those mountains it is a larger growth, in clusters, and hence called +bunch-grass, and which has a second or fall growth. Plains and +mountains both exhibit them; and I have seen good pasturage at an +elevation of ten thousand feet. In this spontaneous product the trading +or traveling caravans can find subsistence for their animals; and in +military operations any number of cavalry may be moved, and any number +of cattle may be driven; and thus men and horses be supported on long +expeditions, and even in winter, in the sheltered situations. + +Commercially, the value of the Oregon country must be great, washed as +it is by the North Pacific ocean--fronting Asia--producing many of the +elements of commerce--mild and healthy in its climate--and becoming, as +it naturally will, a thoroughfare for the East India and China trade. + +Turning our faces once more eastward, on the morning of the 27th we +left the Utah lake, and continued for two days to ascend the Spanish +fork, which is dispersed in numerous branches among very rugged +mountains, which afford few passes, and render a familiar acquaintance +with them necessary to the traveler. The stream can scarcely be said to +have a valley, the mountains rising often abruptly from the water's +edge; but a good trail facilitated our traveling, and there were +frequent bottoms, covered with excellent grass. The streams are +prettily and variously wooded; and everywhere the mountain shows grass +and timber. + +At our encampment on the evening of the 28th, near the head of one of +the branches we had ascended, strata of bituminous limestone were +displayed in an escarpment on the river bluffs, in which were contained +a variety of fossil shells of new species. + +It will be remembered, that in crossing this ridge about 120 miles to +the northward in August last, strata of fossiliferous rock were +discovered, which have been referred to the oolitic period; it is +probable that these rocks also belong to the same formation. + +A few miles from this encampment we reached the bed of the stream, and +crossing, by an open and easy pass, the dividing ridge which separates +the waters of the Great Basin from those of the Colorado, we reached +the head branches of one of its larger tributaries, which, from the +decided color of its waters, has received the name of White river. The +snows of the mountains were now beginning to melt, and all the little +rivulets were running by in rivers, and rapidly becoming difficult to +ford. Continuing a few miles up a branch of White river, we crossed a +dividing ridge between its waters and those of _Uintah_. The approach +to the pass, which is the best known to Mr. Walker, was somewhat +difficult for packs, and impracticable for wagons--all the streams +being shut in by narrow ravines, and the narrow trail along the steep +hill-sides allowing the passage of only one animal at a time. From the +summit we had a fine view of the snowy Bear River range, and there were +still remaining beds of snow on the cold sides of the hills near the +pass. We descended by a narrow ravine, in which was rapidly gathered a +little branch of the Uintah, and halted to noon about 1,500 feet below +the pass, at an elevation, by the boiling point, of 6,900 feet above +the sea. + +The next day we descended along the river, and about noon reached a +point where three forks come together. Fording one of these with some +difficulty, we continued up the middle branch, which, from the color of +its waters, is named the Red river. The few passes, and extremely +rugged nature of the country, give to it great strength, and secure the +Utahs from the intrusion of their enemies. Crossing in the afternoon a +somewhat broken highland, covered in places with fine grasses, and with +cedar on the hill-sides, we encamped at evening on another tributary to +the _Uintah_, called the _Duchesne_ fork. The water was very clear, the +stream not being yet swollen by the melting snows, and we forded it +without any difficulty. It is a considerable branch, being spread out +by islands, the largest arm being about a hundred feet wide, and the +name it bears is probably that of some old French trapper. + +The next day we continued down the river, which we were twice obliged +to cross; and, the water having risen during the night, it was almost +everywhere too deep to be forded. After traveling about sixteen miles, +we encamped again on the left bank. + +I obtained here an occultation of _Scorpii_ at the dark limb of the +moon, which gives for the longitude of the place 112° 18' 30", and the +latitude 40° 18' 53". + + +JUNE. + +1st.--We left to-day the Duchesne fork, and, after traversing a broken +country for about sixteen miles, arrived at noon at another +considerable branch, a river of great velocity, to which the trappers +have improperly given the name of Lake fork. The name applied to it by +the Indians signifies great swiftness, and is the same which they use +to express the speed of a racehorse. It is spread out in various +channels over several hundred yards, and is everywhere too deep and +swift to be forded. At this season of the year, there is an +uninterrupted noise from the large rocks which are rolled along the +bed. After infinite difficulty, and the delay of a day, we succeeded in +getting the stream bridged, and got over with the loss of one of our +animals. Continuing our route across a broken country, of which the +higher parts were rocky and timbered with cedar, and the lower parts +covered with good grass, we reached, on the afternoon of the 3d, the +Uintah fort, a trading-post belonging to Mr. A. Roubideau, on the +principal fork of the Uintah river. We found the stream nearly as rapid +and difficult as the Lake fork, divided into several channels, which +were too broad to be bridged. With the aid of guides from the fort, we +succeeded, with very great difficulty, in fording it, and encamped near +the fort, which is situated a short distance above the junction of two +branches which make the river. + +By an immersion of the first satellite, (agreeing well with the result +of the occultation observed at the Duchesne fork,) the longitude of the +post is 109° 56' 42", the latitude 40° 27' 45". + +It has a motley garrison of Canadian and Spanish _engagés_ and hunters, +with the usual number of Indian women. We obtained a small supply of +sugar and coffee, with some dried meat and a cow, which was a very +acceptable change from the _pinoli_ on which we had subsisted for some +weeks past. I strengthened my party at this place by the addition of +Auguste Archambeau, an excellent voyageur and hunter, belonging to the +class of Carson and Godey. + +On the morning of the 5th we left the fort [Footnote: This fort was +attacked and taken by a band of the Utah Indians since we passed it, +and the men of the garrison killed--the women carried off. Mr. +Roubideau, a trader of St. Louis, was absent, and so escaped the fate +of the rest.] and the Uintah river, and continued our road over a +broken country, which afforded, however, a rich addition to our +botanical collection; and, after a march of 25 miles, were again +checked by another stream, called Ashley's fork, where we were detained +until noon of the next day. + +An immersion of the second satellite gave for this place a longitude of +109° 27' 07", the latitude, by observation, being 40° 28' 07". + +In the afternoon of the next day we succeeded in finding a ford; and, +after traveling 15 miles, encamped high up on the mountain-side, where +we found excellent and abundant grass, which we had not hitherto seen. +A new species of _elymus_, which had a purgative and weakening effect +upon the animals, had occurred abundantly since leaving the fort. From +this point, by observation 7,300 feet above the sea, we had a view of +Colorado below, shut up amongst rugged mountains, and which is the +recipient of all the streams we had been crossing since we passed the +rim of the Great Basin at the head of the Spanish fork. + +On the 7th we had a pleasant but long day's journey, through beautiful +little valleys and a high mountain country, arriving about evening at +the verge of a steep and rocky ravine, by which we descended to +"_Brown's hole_." This is a place well known to trappers in the +country, where the canons through which the Colorado runs expand into a +narrow but pretty valley, about 16 miles in length. The river was +several hundred yards in breadth, swollen to the top of its banks, near +to which it was in many places 15 to 20 feet deep. We repaired a +skin-boat which had been purchased at the fort, and, after a delay of a +day, reached the opposite banks with much less delay than had been +encountered on the Uintah waters. According to information, the lower +end of the valley is the most eastern part of the Colorado; and the +latitude of our encampment, which was opposite to the remains of an old +fort on the left bank of the river, was 40° 46' 27", and, by +observation, the elevation above the sea 5,150 feet. The bearing to the +entrance of the canon below was south 20° east. Here the river enters +between lofty precipices of red rock, and the country below is said to +assume a very rugged character, the river and its affluents passing +through canons which forbid all access to the water. This sheltered +little valley was formerly a favorite wintering ground for the +trappers, as it afforded them sufficient pasturage for their animals, +and the surrounding mountains are well stocked with game. + +We surprised a flock of mountain sheep as we descended to the river, +and our hunters killed several. The bottoms of a small stream called +Vermilion creek, which enters the left bank of the river a short +distance below our encampment, were covered abundantly with _F. +vermicularis_, and other chenopodiaceous shrubs. From the lower end of +Brown's hole we issued by a remarkably dry canon, fifty or sixty yards +wide, and rising, as we advanced, to the height of six or eight hundred +feet. Issuing from this, and crossing a small green valley, we entered +another rent of the same nature, still narrower than the other, the +rocks on either side rising in nearly vertical precipices perhaps 1,500 +feet in height. These places are mentioned, to give some idea of the +country lower down on the Colorado, to which the trappers usually apply +the name of a canon country. The canon opened upon a pond of water, +where we halted to noon. Several flocks of mountain sheep were here +among the rocks, which rung with volleys of small-arms. In the +afternoon we entered upon an ugly, barren, and broken country, +corresponding well with that we had traversed a few degrees north, on +the same side of the Colorado. The Vermilion creek afforded us brackish +water and indifferent grass for the night. + +A few scattered cedar-trees were the only improvement of the country on +the following day; and at a little spring of bad water, where we halted +at noon, we had not even the shelter of these from the hot rays of the +sun. At night we encamped in a fine grove of cottonwood-trees, on the +banks of the Elk Head river, the principal fork of the Yampah river, +commonly called by the trappers the Bear river. We made here a very +strong fort, and formed the camp into vigilant guards. The country we +were now entering was constantly infested by war parties of the Sioux +and other Indians, and is among the most dangerous war-grounds in the +Rocky mountains; parties of whites having been repeatedly defeated on +this river. + +On the 11th we continued up the river, which is a considerable stream, +fifty to a hundred yards in width, handsomely and continuously wooded +with groves of the narrow-leaved cottonwood, _populus angustifolia_; +with these were thickets of willow, and _grain du boeuf_. The +characteristic plant along the river is _F. vermicularis_, which +generally covers the bottoms; mingled with this are saline shrubs and +artemisia. The new variety of grass which we had seen on leaving the +Uintah fort had now disappeared. The country on either side was sandy +and poor, scantily wooded with cedars, but the river bottoms afforded +good pasture. Three antelopes were killed in the afternoon, and we +encamped a little below a branch of the river, called St. Vrain's fork. +A few miles above was the fort at which Frapp's party had been defeated +two years since; and we passed during the day a place where Carson had +been fired upon so close that one of the men had five bullets through +his body. Leaving this river the next morning, we took our way across +the hills, where every hollow had a spring of running water with good +grass. + +Yesterday and to-day we had before our eyes the high mountains which +divide the Pacific from the Mississippi waters; and entering here among +the lower spurs or foot-hills of the range, the face of the country +began to improve with a magical rapidity. Not only the river bottoms, +but the hills were covered with grass; and among the usual varied flora +of the mountain region, these were occasionally blue with the showy +bloom of a _lupinus_. In the course of the morning we had the first +glad view of buffalo, and welcomed the appearance of two old bulls with +as much joy as if they had been messengers from home; and when we +descended to noon on St. Vrain's fork, an affluent of Green river, the +hunters brought in mountain sheep and the meat of two fat bulls. Fresh +entrails in the river showed us that there were Indians above, and at +evening, judging it unsafe to encamp in the bottoms, which were wooded +only with willow thickets, we ascended to the spurs above, and forted +strongly in a small aspen grove, near to which was a spring of cold +water. The hunters killed two fine cows near the camp. A band of elk +broke out of a neighboring grove; antelopes were running over the +hills; and on the opposite river-plains herds of buffalo were raising +clouds of dust. The country here appeared more variously stocked with +game than any part of the Rocky mountains we had visited; and its +abundance is owing to the excellent pasturage, and its dangerous +character as a war-ground. + +13th.--There was snow here near our mountain camp, and the morning was +beautiful and cool. Leaving St. Vrain's fork, we took our way directly +towards the summit of the dividing ridge. The bottoms of the streams +and level places were wooded with aspens; and as we neared the summit, +we entered again the piny region. We had a delightful morning's ride, +the ground affording us an excellent bridle-path, and reached the +summit towards mid-day, at an elevation of 8,000 feet. With joy and +exultation we saw ourselves once more on the top of the Rocky +mountains, and beheld a little stream taking its course towards the +rising sun. It was an affluent of the Platte, called Pullam's fork, and +we descended to noon upon it. It is a pretty stream, twenty yards +broad, and bears the name of a trapper who, some years since, was +killed here by the _Gros Ventre_ Indians. + +Issuing from the pines in the afternoon we saw spread out before us the +valley of the Platte, with the pass of the Medicine Butte beyond, and +some of the Sweet Water mountains; but a smoky haziness in the air +entirely obscured the Wind River chain. + +We were now about two degrees south of the South Pass, and our course +home would have been eastwardly; but that would have taken us over +ground already examined, and therefore without the interest that would +excite curiosity. Southwardly there were objects worthy to be explored, +to wit: the approximation of the head-waters of three different +rivers--the Platte, the Arkansas, and the Grand River fork of the Rio +Colorado of the Gulf of California; the passages at the heads of these +rivers; and the three remarkable mountain coves, called Parks, in which +they took their rise. One of these Parks was, of course, on the western +side of the dividing ridge; and a visit to it would once more require +us to cross the summit of the Rocky mountains to the west, and then to +recross to the east, making in all, with the transit we had just +accomplished, three crossings of that mountain in this section of its +course. But no matter. The coves, the heads of the rivers, the +approximation of their waters, the practicability of the mountain +passes, and the locality of the three Parks, were all objects of +interest, and, although well known to hunters and trappers, were +unknown to science and to history. We therefore changed our course, and +turned up the valley of the Platte instead of going down it. + +We crossed several small affluents, and again made a fortified camp in +a grove. The country had now became very beautiful--rich in water, +grass, and game; and to these were added the charm of scenery and +pleasant weather. + +14th.--Our route this morning lay along the foot of the mountain, over +the long low spurs which sloped gradually down to the river, forming +the broad valley of the Platte. The country is beautifully watered. In +almost every hollow ran a clear, cool, mountain stream; and in the +course of the morning we crossed seventeen, several of them being large +creeks, forty to fifty feet wide, with a swift current, and tolerably +deep. These were variously wooded with groves of aspen and cottonwood, +with willow, cherry, and other shrubby trees. Buffalo, antelope, and +elk, were frequent during the day; and, in their abundance; the latter +sometimes reminded us slightly of the Sacramento valley. + +We halted at noon on Potter's fork--a clear and swift stream, forty +yards wide, and in many places deep enough to swim our animals; and in +the evening encamped on a pretty stream, where there were several +beaver dams, and many trees recently cut down by the beaver. We gave to +this the name of Beaver Dam creek, as now they are becoming +sufficiently rare to distinguish by their names the streams on which +they are found. In this mountain they occurred more abundantly than +elsewhere in all our journey, in which their vestiges had been scarcely +seen. + +The next day we continued our journey up the valley, the country +presenting much the same appearance, except that the grass was more +scanty on the ridges, over which was spread a scrubby growth of sage; +but still the bottoms of the creeks were broad, and afforded good +pasture-grounds. We had an animated chase after a grizzly bear this +morning, which we tried to lasso. Fuentes threw the lasso upon his +neck, but it slipped off, and he escaped into the dense thickets of the +creek, into which we did not like to venture. Our course in the +afternoon brought us to the main Platte river, here a handsome stream, +with a uniform breadth of seventy yards, except where widened by +frequent islands. It was apparently deep, with a moderate current, and +wooded with groves of large willow. + +The valley narrowed as we ascended, and presently degenerated into a +gorge, through which the river passed as through a gate. We entered it, +and found ourselves in the New Park--a beautiful circular valley of +thirty miles diameter, walled in all round with snowy mountains, rich +with water and with grass, fringed with pine on the mountain sides +below the snow line, and a paradise to all grazing animals. The Indian +name for it signifies "cow lodge," of which our own may be considered a +translation; the enclosure, the grass, the water, and the herds of +buffalo roaming over it, naturally presenting the idea of a park. We +halted for the night just within the gate, and expected, as usual, to +see herds of buffalo; but an Arapahoe village had been before us, and +not one was to be seen. Latitude of the encampment 40° 52' 44". +Elevation by the boiling point 7,720 feet. + +It is from this elevated cove, and from the gorges of the surrounding +mountains, and some lakes within their bosoms, that the Great Platte +river collects its first waters, and assumes its first form; and +certainly no river could ask a more beautiful origin. + +16th.--In the morning we pursued our way through the Park, following a +principal branch of the Platte, and crossing, among many smaller ones, +a bold stream, scarcely fordable, called Lodge Pole fork, and which +issues from a lake in the mountains on the right, ten miles long. In +the evening we encamped on a small stream near the upper end of the +Park. Latitude of the camp 40° 33' 22". + +17th.--We continued our way among the waters of the Park over the +foot-hills of the bordering mountains, where we found good pasturage, +and surprised and killed some buffalo. We fell into a broad and +excellent trail, made by buffalo, where a wagon would pass with ease; +and, in the course of the morning we crossed the summit of the Rocky +mountains, through a pass which was one of the most beautiful we had +ever seen. The trail led among the aspens, through open grounds, richly +covered with grass, and carried us over an elevation of about 9,000 +feet above the level of the sea. + +The country appeared to great advantage in the delightful summer +weather of the mountains, which we still continued to enjoy. Descending +from the pass, we found ourselves again on the western waters; and +halted to noon on the edge of another mountain valley, called the Old +Park, in which is formed Grand river, one of the principal branches of +the Colorado of California. We were now moving with some caution, as, +from the trail, we found the Arapahoe village had also passed this way; +as we were coming out of their enemy's country, and this was a +war-ground, we were desirous to avoid them. After a long afternoon's +march, we halted at night on a small creek, tributary to a main fork of +Grand river, which ran through this portion of the valley. The +appearance of the country in the Old Park is interesting, though of a +different character from the New; instead of being a comparative plain, +it is more or less broken into hills, and surrounded by the high +mountains, timbered on the lower parts with quaking asp and pines. + +18th.--Our scouts, who were as usual ahead, made from a _butte_ this +morning the signal of Indians, and we rode up in time to meet a party +of about 30 Arapahoes. They were men and women going into the +hills--the men for game, the women for roots--and informed us that the +village was encamped a few miles above, on the main fork of Grand +river, which passes through the midst of the valley. I made them the +usual presents; but they appeared disposed to be unfriendly, and +galloped back at speed to the village. Knowing that we had trouble to +expect, I descended immediately into the bottoms of Grand river, which +were overflowed in places, the river being up, and made the best +encampment the ground afforded. We had no time to build a fort, but +found an open place among the willows, which was defended by the river +on one side and the overflowed bottoms on the other. We had scarcely +made our few preparations, when about 200 of them appeared on the verge +of the bottom, mounted, painted, and armed for war. We planted the +American flag between us; and a short parley ended in a truce, with +something more than the usual amount of presents. About 20 Sioux were +with them--one of them an old chief, who had always been friendly to +the whites. He informed me that, before coming down, a council had been +held at the village, in which the greater part had declared for +attacking us--we had come from their enemies, to whom we had doubtless +been carrying assistance in arms and ammunition; but his own party, +with some few of the Arapahoes who had seen us the previous year in the +plains, opposed it. It will be remembered that it is customary for this +people to attack the trading parties which they meet in this region, +considering all whom they meet on the western side of the mountains to +be their enemies. They deceived me into the belief that I should find a +ford at their village, and I could not avoid accompanying them; but put +several sloughs between us and their village, and forted strongly on +the banks of the river, which was everywhere rapid and deep, and over a +hundred yards in breadth. The camp was generally crowded with Indians; +and though the baggage was carefully watched and covered, a number of +things were stolen. + +The next morning we descended the river for about eight miles, and +halted a short distance above a canon, through which Grand river issues +from the Park. Here it was smooth and deep, 150 yards in breadth, and +its elevation at this point 6,700 feet. A frame for the boat being very +soon made, our baggage was ferried across; the horses, in the mean +time, swimming over. A southern fork of Grand river here makes its +junction, nearly opposite to the branch by which we had entered the +valley, and up this we continued for about eight miles in the afternoon +and encamped in a bottom on the left bank, which afforded good grass. +At our encampment it was 70 to 90 yards in breadth, sometimes widened +by islands, and separated into several channels, with a very swift +current and bed of rolled rocks. + +On the 20th we traveled up the left bank, with the prospect of a bad +road, the trail here taking the opposite side; but the stream was up, +and nowhere fordable. A piny ridge of mountains, with bare rocky peaks, +was on our right all the day, and a snowy mountain appeared ahead. We +crossed many foaming torrents with rocky beds, rushing down the river; +and in the evening made a strong fort in an aspen grove. The valley had +already become very narrow, shut up more closely in densely timbered +mountains, the pines sweeping down the verge of the bottoms. The _coq +de prairie (tetrao europhasianus)_ was occasionally seen among the sage. + +We saw to-day the returning trail of an Arapahoe party which had been +sent from the village to look for Utahs in the Bayou Salade, (South +Park;) and it being probable that they would visit our camp with the +desire to return on horseback, we were more than usually on the alert. + +Here the river diminished to 35 yards, and, notwithstanding the number +of affluents we had crossed, was still a large stream, dashing swiftly +by, with a great continuous fall, and not yet fordable. We had a +delightful ride along a good trail among the fragrant pines; and the +appearance of buffalo in great numbers indicated that there were +Indians in the Bayou Salade, (South Park,) by whom they were driven +out. We halted to noon under the shade of the pines, and the weather +was most delightful. The country was literally alive with buffalo; and +the continued echo of the hunters' rifles on the other side of the +river for a moment made me uneasy, thinking perhaps they were engaged +with Indians; but in a short time they came into camp with the meat of +seven fat cows. + +During the earlier part of the day's ride, the river had been merely a +narrow ravine between high piny mountains, backed on both sides, but +particularly on the west, by a line of snowy ridges; but, after several +hours' ride, the stream opened out into a valley with pleasant bottoms. +In the afternoon the river forked into three apparently equal streams; +broad buffalo trails leading up the left hand, and the middle branch, +indicating good passes over the mountains; but up the right-hand +branch, (which, in the object of descending from the mountain by the +main head of the Arkansas, I was most desirous to follow,) there was no +sign of a buffalo trace. Apprehending from this reason, and the +character of the mountains, which are known to be extremely rugged, +that the right-hand branch led to no pass, I proceeded up the middle +branch, which formed a flat valley-bottom between timbered ridges on +the left and snowy mountains on the right, terminating in large +_buttes_ of naked rock. The trail was good, and the country +interesting; and at nightfall we encamped in an open place among the +pines, where we built a strong fort. The mountains exhibit their usual +varied growth of flowers, and at this place I noticed, among others, +_thermopsis montana_, whose bright yellow color makes it a showy plant. +This has been a characteristic in many parts of the country since +reaching the Uintah waters. With fields of iris were _aquilegia +coerulea_, violets, esparcette, and strawberries. + +At dark we perceived a fire in the edge of the pines, on the opposite +side of the valley. We had evidently not been discovered, and, at the +report of a gun, and the blaze of fresh fuel which was heaped on our +fires, those of the strangers were instantly extinguished. In the +morning, they were found to be a party of six trappers, who had +ventured out among the mountains after beaver. They informed us that +two of the number with which they had started had been already killed +by the Indians--one of them but a few days since--by the Arapahoes we +had lately seen, who had found him alone at a camp on this river, and +carried off his traps and animals. As they were desirous to join us, +the hunters returned with them to the encampment, and we continued up +the valley, in which the stream rapidly diminished, breaking into small +tributaries--every hollow affording water. At our noon halt, the +hunters joined us with the trappers. While preparing to start from +their encampment, they found themselves suddenly surrounded by a party +of Arapahoes, who informed them that their scouts had discovered a +large Utah village in the Bayou Salade, (South Park,) and that a large +war-party, consisting of almost every man in the village, except those +who were too old to go to war, were going over to attack them. The main +body had ascended the left fork of the river, which afforded a better +pass than the branch we were on, and this party had followed our trail, +in order that we might add our force to theirs. Carson informed them +that we were too far ahead to turn back, but would join them in the +bayou; and the Indians went off apparently satisfied. By the +temperature of boiling water, our elevation here was 10,430 feet, and +still the pine forest continued, and grass was good. + +In the afternoon we continued our road occasionally through open pines, +with a very gradual ascent. We surprised a herd of buffalo, enjoying +the shade at a small lake among the pines, and they made the dry +branches crack, as they broke through the woods. In a ride of about +three-quarters of an hour, and having ascended perhaps 800 feet, we +reached the _summit of the dividing ridge_, which would thus have an +estimated height of 11,200 feet. Here the river spreads itself into +small branches and springs, heading nearly in the summit of the ridge, +which is very narrow. Immediately below us was a green valley, through +which ran a stream; and a short distance opposite rose snowy mountains, +whose summits were formed into peaks of naked rock. We soon afterwards +satisfied ourselves that immediately beyond these mountains was the +main branch of the Arkansas river--most probably heading directly with +the little stream below us, which gathered its waters in the snowy +mountains near by. Descriptions of the rugged character of the +mountains around the head of the Arkansas, which their appearance amply +justified, deterred me from making any attempt to reach it, which would +have involved a greater length of time than now remained at my disposal. + +In about a quarter of an hour, we descended from the summit of the Pass +into the creek below, our road having been very much controlled and +interrupted by the pines and springs on the mountain-side. Turning up +the stream, we encamped on a bottom of good grass near its head, which +gathers its waters in the dividing crest of the Rocky mountains, and, +according to the best information we could obtain, separated only by +the rocky wall of the ridge from the head of the main Arkansas river. +By the observations of the evening, the latitude of our encampment was +39° 20' 24", and south of which; therefore, is the head of the Arkansas +river. The stream on which we had encamped is the head of either the +_Fontaine-qui-bouit_, a branch of the Arkansas, or the remotest head of +the south fork of the Platte, as which you will find it laid down on +the map. But descending it only through a portion of its course, we +have not been able to settle this point satisfactorily. In the evening +a band of buffalo furnished a little excitement, by charging through +the camp. + +On the following day we descended the stream by an excellent +buffalo-trail, along the open grassy bottom of the river. On our right, +the bayou was bordered by a mountainous range, crested with rocky and +naked peaks; and below, it had a beautiful park-like character of +pretty level prairies, interspersed among low spurs, wooded openly with +pine and quaking asp, contrasting well with the denser pines which +swept around on the mountain sides. Descending always the valley of the +stream, towards noon we descried a mounted party descending the point +of a spur, and, judging them to be Arapahoes--who, defeated or +victorious, were equally dangerous to us, and with whom a fight would +be inevitable--we hurried to post ourselves as strongly as possible on +some willow islands in the river. We had scarcely halted when they +arrived, proving to be a party of Utah women, who told us that on the +other side of the ridge their village was fighting with the Arapahoes. +As soon as they had given us this information, they filled the air with +cries and lamentations, which made us understand that some of their +chiefs had been killed. + +Extending along the river, directly ahead of us, was a low piny ridge, +leaving between it and the stream a small open bottom, on which the +Utahs had very injudiciously placed their village, which, according to +the women, numbered about 300 warriors. Advancing in the cover of the +pines, the Arapahoes, about daylight, charged into the village, driving +off a great number of their horses, and killing four men; among them, +the principal chief of the village. They drove the horses perhaps a +mile beyond the village, to the end of a hollow, where they had +previously forted, at the edge of the pines. Here the Utahs had +instantly attacked them in turn, and, according to the report of the +women, were getting rather the best of the day. The women pressed us +eagerly to join with their people, and would immediately have provided +us with the best horses at the village; but it was not for us to +interfere in such a conflict. Neither party were our friends, or under +our protection; and each was ready to prey upon us that could. But we +could not help feeling an unusual excitement at being within a few +hundred yards of a fight, in which 500 men were closely engaged, and +hearing the sharp cracks of their rifles. We were in a bad position, +and subject to be attacked in it. Either party which we might meet, +victorious or defeated, was certain to fall upon us; and, gearing up +immediately, we kept close along the pines of the ridge, having it +between us and the village, and keeping the scouts on the summit, to +give us notice of the approach of Indians. As we passed by the village, +which was immediately below us, horsemen were galloping to and fro, and +groups of people were gathered around those who were wounded and dead, +and who were being brought in from the field. We continued to press on, +and, crossing another fork, which came in from the right, after having +made fifteen miles from the village, fortified ourselves strongly in +the pines, a short distance from the river. + +During the afternoon, Pike's Peak had been plainly in view before us, +and, from our encampment, bore N. 87° E. by compass. This was a +familiar object, and it had for us the face of an old friend. At its +foot were the springs, where we had spent a pleasant day in coming out. +Near it were the habitations of civilized men; and it overlooked the +broad smooth plains, which promised us an easy journey to our home. + +The next day we left the river, which continued its course towards +Pike's Peak; and taking a southeasterly direction, in about ten miles +we crossed a gentle ridge, and, issuing from the South Park, found +ourselves involved among the broken spurs of the mountains which border +the great prairie plains. Although broken and extremely rugged, the +country was very interesting, being well watered by numerous affluents +to the Arkansas river, and covered with grass and a variety of trees. +The streams, which, in the upper part of their course, ran through +grassy and open hollows, after a few miles all descended into deep and +impracticable canons, through which they found their way to the +Arkansas valley. Here the buffalo trails we had followed were dispersed +among the hills, or crossed over into the more open valleys of other +streams. + +During the day our road was fatiguing and difficult, reminding us much, +by its steep and rocky character, of our traveling the year before +among the Wind River mountains; but always at night we found some +grassy bottom, which afforded us a pleasant camp. In the deep seclusion +of these little streams, we found always an abundant pasturage, and a +wild luxuriance of plants and trees. Aspens and pines were the +prevailing timber: on the creeks oak was frequent; but the +narrow-leaved cottonwood, (_populus angustifolia_,) of unusually large +size, and seven or eight feet in circumference, was the principal tree. +With these were mingled a variety of shrubby trees, which aided to make +the ravines almost impenetrable. + +After several days' laborious traveling, we succeeded in extricating +ourselves from the mountains, and on the morning of the 28th encamped +immediately at their foot, on a handsome tributary to the Arkansas +river. In the afternoon we descended the stream, winding our way along +the bottoms, which were densely wooded with oak, and in the evening +encamped near the main river. Continuing the next day our road along +the Arkansas, and meeting on the way a war-party of Arapahoe Indians, +(who had recently been committing some outrages at Bent's fort, killing +stock and driving off horses,) we arrived before sunset at the Pueblo, +near the mouth of the _Fontaine-qui-bouit_ river, where we had the +pleasure to find a number of our old acquaintances. The little +settlement appeared in a thriving condition; and in the interval of our +absence another had been established on the river, some thirty miles +above. + +On the 30th of June our cavalcade moved rapidly down the Arkansas, +along the broad road which follows the river. + + + +JULY. + + +On the 1st of July we arrived at Bent's fort, about 70 miles below the +mouth of the _Fontaine-qui-bouit_. As we emerged into view from the +groves on the river, we were saluted with a display of the national +flag, and repeated discharges from the guns of the fort, where we were +received by Mr. George Bent with a cordial welcome and a friendly +hospitality, in the enjoyment of which we spent several very agreeable +days. We were now in the region where our mountaineers were accustomed +to live; and all the dangers and difficulties of the road being +considered past, four of them, including Carson and Walker, remained at +the fort. + +On the 5th we resumed our journey down the Arkansas, traveling along a +broad wagon-road, and encamped about 20 miles below the fort. On the +way we met a very large village of Sioux and Cheyenne Indians, who, +with the Arapahoes were returning from the crossing of the Arkansas, +where they had been to meet the Kioway and Camanche Indians. A few days +previous they had massacred a party of fifteen Delawares, whom they had +discovered in a fort on the Smoky Hill river, losing in the affair +several of their own people. They were desirous that we should bear a +pacific message to the Delawares on the frontier, from whom they +expected retaliation; and we passed through them without any difficulty +or delay. Dispersed over the plain in scattered bodies of horsemen, and +family groups of women and children, with dog-trains carrying baggage, +and long lines of pack-horses, their appearance was picturesque and +imposing. + +Agreeably to your instructions, which required me to complete, as far +as practicable, our examinations of the Kansas, I left at this +encampment the Arkansas river, taking a northeasterly direction across +the elevated dividing grounds which separate that river from the waters +of the Platte. On the 7th we crossed a large stream, about forty yards +wide, and one or two feet deep, flowing with a lively current on a +sandy bed. The discolored and muddy appearance of the water indicated +that it proceeded from recent rains; and we are inclined to consider +this a branch of the Smoky Hill river, although, possibly, it may be +the Pawnee fork of the Arkansas. Beyond this stream we traveled over +high and level prairies, halting at small ponds and holes of water, and +using for our fires the _bois de vache_, the country being without +timber. On the evening of the 8th we encamped in a cottonwood grove on +the banks of a sandy stream-bed, where there was water in holes +sufficient for the camp. Here several hollows, or dry creeks with sandy +beds, met together, forming the head of a stream which afterwards +proved to be the Smoky Hill fork of the Kansas river. + +The next morning, as we were leaving our encampment, a number of +Arapahoe Indians were discovered. They belonged to a war-party which +had scattered over the prairie in returning from an expedition against +the Pawnees. + +As we traveled down the valley, water gathered rapidly in the sandy bed +from many little tributaries; and at evening it had become a handsome +stream, fifty to eighty feet in width, with a lively current in small +channels, the water being principally dispersed among quicksands. + +Gradually enlarging, in a few days' march it became a river eighty +yards in breadth, wooded with occasional groves of cottonwood. Our road +was generally over level uplands bordering the river, which were +closely covered with a sward of buffalo-grass. + +On the 10th we entered again the buffalo range, where we had found +these animals so abundant on our outward journey, and halted for a day +among numerous herds, in order to make a provision of meat sufficient +to carry us to the frontier. + +A few days afterwards, we encamped, in a pleasant evening, on a high +river prairie, the stream being less than a hundred yards broad. During +the night we had a succession of thunder-storms, with heavy and +continuous rain, and towards morning the water suddenly burst over the +bank, flooding the bottoms and becoming a large river, five or six +hundred yards in breadth. The darkness of the night and incessant rain +had concealed from the guard the rise of the water; and the river broke +into the camp so suddenly, that the baggage was instantly covered, and +all our perishable collections almost entirely ruined, and the hard +labor of many months destroyed in a moment. + +On the 17th we discovered a large village of Indians encamped at the +mouth of a handsomely wooded stream on the right bank of the river. +Readily inferring, from the nature of the encampment, that they were +Pawnee Indians, and confidently expecting good treatment from a people +who receive regularly an annuity from the government, we proceeded +directly to the village, where we found assembled nearly all the Pawnee +tribe, who were now returning from the crossing of the Arkansas, where +they had met the Kioway and Camanche Indians. We were received by them +with the unfriendly rudeness and characteristic insolence which they +never fail to display whenever they find an occasion for doing so with +impunity. The little that remained of our goods was distributed among +them, but proved entirely insufficient to satisfy their greedy +rapacity; and, after some delay, and considerable difficulty, we +succeeded in extricating ourselves from the village, and encamped on +the river about 15 miles below. + +[Footnote: In a recent report to the department, from Major Wharton, +who visited the Pawnee villages with a military force some months +afterwards, it is stated that the Indians had intended to attack our +party during the night we remained at this encampment, but were +prevented by the interposition of the Pawnee Loups.] + +The country through which we had been traveling since leaving the +Arkansas river, for a distance of 260 miles, presented to the eye only +a succession of far-stretching green prairies, covered with the +unbroken verdure of the buffalo-grass, and sparingly wooded along the +streams with straggling trees and occasional groves of cottonwood; but +here the country began perceptibly to change its character, becoming a +more fertile, wooded, and beautiful region, covered with a profusion of +grasses, and watered with innumerable little streams, which were wooded +with oak, large elms, and the usual varieties of timber common to the +lower course of the Kansas river. + +As we advanced, the country steadily improved, gradually assimilating +itself in appearance to the northwestern part of the state of Missouri. +The beautiful sward of the buffalo-grass, which is regarded as the best +and most nutritious found on the prairies, appeared now only in +patches, being replaced by a longer and coarser grass, which covered +the face of the country luxuriantly. The difference in the character of +the grasses became suddenly evident in the weakened condition of our +animals, which began sensibly to fail as soon as we quitted the +buffalo-grass. + +The river preserved a uniform breadth of eighty or a hundred yards, +with broad bottoms continuously timbered with large cottonwood-trees, +among which were interspersed a few other varieties. + +While engaged in crossing one of the numerous creeks which frequently +impeded and checked our way, sometimes obliging us to ascend them for +several miles, one of the people (Alexis Ayot) was shot through the leg +by the accidental discharge of a rifle--a mortifying and painful +mischance, to be crippled for life by an accident, after having nearly +accomplished in safety a long and eventful journey. He was a young man +of remarkably good and cheerful temper, and had been among the useful +and efficient men of the party. + +After having traveled directly along its banks for 290 miles, we left +the river, where it bore suddenly off in a northwesterly direction, +towards its junction with the Republican fork of the Kansas, distant +about 60 miles; and, continuing our easterly course, in about 20 miles +we entered the wagon-road from Santa Fé to Independence, and on the +last day of July encamped again at the little town of Kansas, on the +banks of the Missouri river. + +During our protracted absence of 14 months, in the course of which we +had necessarily been exposed to great varieties of weather and of +climate, not one case of sickness had ever occurred among us. + +Here ended our land journey; and the day following our arrival, we +found ourselves on board a steamboat rapidly gliding down the broad +Missouri. Our travel-worn animals had not been sold and dispersed over +the country to renewed labor, but were placed at good pasturage on the +frontier, and are now ready to do their part in the coming expedition. + +On the 6th of August we arrived at St. Louis, where the party was +finally disbanded, a great number of the men having their homes in the +neighborhood. + +Andreas Fuentes also remained here, having readily found employment for +the winter, and is one of the men engaged to accompany me the present +year. + +Pablo Hernandez remains in the family of Senator Benton, where he is +well taken care of, and conciliates good-will by his docility, +intelligence, and amiability. General Almonte, the Mexican minister at +Washington, to whom he was of course made known, kindly offered to take +charge of him, and to carry him back to Mexico; but the boy preferred +to remain where he was until he got an education, for which he shows +equal ardor and aptitude. + +Our Chinook Indian had his wish to see the whites fully gratified. He +accompanied me to Washington, and, after remaining several months at +the Columbia College, was sent by the Indian department to +Philadelphia, where, among other things, he learned to read and write +well, and speak the English language with some fluency. He will +accompany me in a few days to the frontier of Missouri, where he will +be sent with some one of the emigrant companies to the village at the +Dalles of the Columbia. + +Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. C. FREMONT, _Bt. Capt. +Topl. Engineers_. + + + +* * * * * + + +GOLD REGIONS OF CALIFORNIA. + + +The "placers" or Gold Mines of California, are located in the valley of +the Sacramento, in the northern part of that new territory. They are +all on the public lands, with the exception of the portion belonging to +Messrs. Forbes and Sutter. The region which they embrace and which +lies, according to authentic reports, on both sides of the Sierra +Nevada, must be "larger than the State of New York." The mines, it is +estimated, are worth a thousand millions of dollars. The most reliable +information in regard to them may be found in the official reports +communicated to the authorities at Washington, by some of the American +officers who have visited the region. The following document is of this +nature. The author of it, Col. Mason, the military commander in +California, speaks, as will be seen, from observation, and the fullest +confidence may be placed in his account:-- + + + + +HEADQUARTERS 10TH MILITARY DEPOT, Monterey, California, Aug. 17, 1848. + +SIR:--I have the honor to inform you that, accompanied by Lieut. W. T. +Sherman, 3d artillery, A. A. A. General, I started on the 12th of June +last to make a tour through the northern part of California. My +principal purpose, however, was to visit the newly-discovered gold +"placer," in the Valley of the Sacramento. I had proceeded about forty +miles, when I was overtaken by an express, bringing me intelligence of +the arrival at Monterey of the U. S. ship Southampton, with important +letters from Com. Shubrick and Lieut. Col. Barton. I returned at once +to Monterey, and dispatched what business was most important, and on +the 17th resumed my journey. We reached San Francisco on the 20th, and +found that all, or nearly all, its male inhabitants had gone to the +mines. The town, which a few months before was so busy and thriving, +was then almost deserted. + +On the evening of the 25th, the horses of the escort were crossed to +Sousoleto in a launch, and on the following day we resumed the journey +by way of Bodega and Sonoma to Sutter's fort, where we arrived on the +morning of the 2d of July. Along the whole route mills were lying idle, +fields of wheat were open to cattle and horses, houses vacant, and +farms going to waste. At Sutter's there was more life and business. +Launches were discharging their cargoes at the river, and carts were +hauling goods to the fort, where already were established several +stores, a hotel, &c. Captain Sutter had only two mechanics in his +employ, (a wagon-maker and a blacksmith,) whom he was then paying ten +dollars a day. Merchants pay him a monthly rent of $100 per room; and +while I was there, a two-story house in the fort was rented as a hotel +for $500 a month. + +At the urgent solicitation of many gentlemen, I delayed there to +participate in the first public celebration of our national anniversary +at that fort, but on the 5th resumed the journey and proceeded +twenty-five miles up the American fork to a point on it now known as +the Lower Mines, or Mormon Diggings: The hill-sides were thickly strewn +with canvas tents and bush arbors; a store was erected, and several +boarding shanties in operation. The day was intensely hot, yet about +two hundred men were at work in the full glare of the sun, washing for +gold--some with tin pans, some with close-woven Indian baskets, but the +greater part had a rude machine, known as the cradle. This is on +rockers, six or eight feet long, open at the foot, and at its head has +a coarse grate, or sieve; the bottom is rounded, with small cleets +nailed across. Four men are required to work this machine: one digs the +ground in the bank close by the stream; another carries it to the +cradle and empties it on the grate; a third gives a violent rocking +motion to the machine; while a fourth dashes on water from the stream +itself. + +The sieve keeps the coarse stones from entering the cradle, the current +of water washes off the earthy matter, and the gravel is gradually +carried out at the foot of the machine, leaving the gold mixed with a +heavy fine black sand above the first cleets. The sand and gold mixed +together are then drawn off through auger holes into a pan below, are +dried in the sun, and afterwards separated by blowing off the sand. A +party of four men thus employed at the lower mines averaged $100 a day. +The Indians, and those who have nothing but pans or willow baskets, +gradually wash out the earth and separate the gravel by hand, leaving +nothing but the gold mixed with sand, which is separated in the manner +before described. The gold in the lower mines is in fine bright scales, +of which I send several specimens. + +As we ascended the north branch of the American fork, the country +became more broken and mountainous, and at the saw-mill, 25 miles above +the lower washings, or 50 miles from Sutter's, the hills rise to about +a thousand feet above the level of the Sacramento plain. Here a species +of pine occurs which led to the discovery of the gold. Capt Sutter, +feeling the great want of lumber, contracted in September last with a +Mr. Marshall to build a saw-mill at that place. It was erected in the +course of the past winter and spring--a dam and race constructed; but +when the water was let on the wheel, the tail-race was found to be too +narrow to permit the water to escape with sufficient rapidity. Mr. +Marshall, to save labor, let the water directly into the race with a +strong current, so as to wash it wider and deeper. He effected his +purpose, and a large bed of mud and gravel was carried to the foot of +the race. + +One day Mr. Marshall, as he was walking down the race to this deposit +of mud, observed some glittering particles at its upper edge; he +gathered a few, examined them, and became satisfied of their value. He +then went to the fort, told Capt. Sutter of his discovery, and they +agreed to keep it secret until a certain grist-mill of Sutter's was +finished. It, however, got out, and spread like magic. Remarkable +success attended the labors of the first explorers, and in a few weeks +hundreds of men were drawn thither. At the time of my visit, but little +over three months after the first discovery, it was estimated that +upwards of four thousand people were employed. At the mill there is a +fine deposit or bank of gravel, which the people respect as the +property of Captain Sutter, although he pretends to no right to it, and +would be perfectly satisfied with the simple promise of a pre-emption, +on account of the mill which he has built there at considerable cost. +Mr. Marshall was living near the mill, and informed me that many +persons were employed above and below him; that they used the same +machines at the lower washings, and that their success was about the +same--ranging from one to three ounces of gold per man daily. This +gold, too, is in scales a little coarser than those of the lower mines. + +From the mill Mr. Marshall guided me up the mountain on the opposite or +north bank of the south fork, where, in the bed of small streams or +ravines, now dry, a great deal of coarse gold has been found. I there +saw several parties at work, all of whom were doing very well; a great +many specimens were shown me, some as heavy as four or five ounces in +weight, and I send three pieces labelled No. 5, presented by a Mr. +Spence. You will perceive that some of the specimens accompanying this, +hold mechanically pieces of quartz; that the surface is rough and +evidently moulded in the crevice of a rock. This gold cannot have been +carried far by water, but must have remained near where it was first +deposited from the rock that once bound it. I inquired of many people +if they had encountered the metal in its matrix, but in every instance +they said they had not, but that the gold was invariably mixed with +washed gravel or lodged in the crevices of other rocks. All bore +testimony that they had found gold in greater or less quantities in the +numerous small gullies or ravines that occur in that mountainous region. + +On the 7th of July I left the mill, and crossed to a stream emptying +into the American fork, three or four miles below the saw mill. I +struck this stream (now known as Weber's creek) at the washings of +Sunol & Co. They had about thirty Indians employed, whom they payed in +merchandise. They were getting gold of a character similar to that +found on the main fork, and doubtless in sufficient quantities to +satisfy them. I send you a small specimen, presented by this company, +of their gold. From this point we proceeded up the stream about eight +miles, where we found a great many people and Indians--some engaged in +the bed of the stream, and others in the small side valleys that put +into it. These latter are exceedingly rich, and two ounces were +considered an ordinary yield for a day's work. A small gutter, not more +than a hundred yards long by four feet wide and two or three feet deep, +was pointed out to me as the one where two men--William Daly and Parry +McCoon--had, a short time before, obtained 17,000 dollars worth of +gold. Capt. Weber informed me that he knew that these two men had +employed four white men and about a hundred Indians, and that at the +end of one week's work, they paid off their party, and had left $10,000 +worth of this gold. Another small ravine was shown me, from which had +been taken upwards of $12,000 worth of gold. Hundreds of similar +ravines to all appearances are as yet untouched. I could not have +credited these reports had I not seen, in the abundance of the precious +metal, evidence of their truth. + +Mr. Neligh, an agent of Commodore Stockton, had been at work about +three weeks in the neighborhood, and showed me in bags and bottles over +$2,000 worth of gold; and Mr. Lyman, a gentleman of education and +worthy of every credit, said he had been engaged with four others, with +a machine, on the American fork, just below Sutter's mill; that they +worked eight days, and that his share was at the rate of $50 a day; but +hearing that others were doing better at Weber's place they had removed +there, and were then on the point of resuming operations. I might tell +of hundreds of similar instances; but to illustrate how plentiful the +gold was in the pockets of common laborers, I will mention a simple +occurrence which took place in my presence when I was at Weber's store. +This store was nothing but an arbor of bushes, under which he had +exposed for sale goods and groceries suited to his customers. A man +came in, picked up a box of Seidlitz powders and asked the price. +Captain Weber told him it was not for sale. The man offered an ounce of +gold, but Capt. Weber told it only cost fifty cents, and he did not +wish to sell it. The man then offered an ounce and a half, when Capt. +Weber _had_ to take it. The prices of all things are high, and yet +Indians, who before hardly knew what a breech cloth was, can now afford +to buy the most gaudy dresses. + +The country on either side of Weber's creek is much broken up by hills, +and is intersected in every direction by small streams or ravines, +which contain more or less gold. Those that have been worked are barely +scratched; and although thousands of ounces have been carried away, I +do not consider that a serious impression has been made upon the whole. +Every day was developing new and richer deposits; and the only +impression seemed to be, that the metal would be found in such +abundance as seriously to depreciate in value. + +On the 8th of July I returned to the lower mines, and on the following +day to Sutter's, where, on the 19th. I was making preparations for a +visit to the Feather, Yubah, and Bear rivers, when I received a letter +from Commander A. R. Long, United States Navy, who had just arrived at +San Francisco from Mazatlan, with a crew for the sloop-of-war Warren, +with orders to take that vessel to the squadron at La Paz. Capt. Long +wrote to me that the Mexican Congress had adjourned without ratifying +the treaty of peace, that he had letters from Commodore Jones, and that +his orders were to sail with the Warren on or before the 20th of July. +In consequence of this I determined to return to Monterey, and +accordingly arrived here on the 17th of July. Before leaving Sutter's I +satisfied myself that gold existed in the bed of the Feather river, in +the Yubah and Bear, and in many of the smaller streams that lie between +the latter and the American fork; also that it had been found in the +Cosummes to the south of the American fork. In each of these streams, +the gold is found in small scales, whereas in the intervening mountains +it occurs in coarser lumps. + +Mr. Sinclair, whose rancho is three miles above Sutter's on the north +side of the American, employs about fifty Indians on the north fork, +not far from its junction with the main stream. He had been engaged +about five weeks when I saw him, and up to that time his Indians had +used simply closely woven willow baskets. His nett proceeds (which I +saw) were about $16,000 worth of gold. He showed me the proceeds of his +last week's work--fourteen pounds avoirdupois of clean-washed gold. + +The principal store at Sutter's Fort, that of Brannan & Co., had +received in payment for goods $36,000 (worth of this gold) from the 1st +of May to the 10th of July. Other merchants had also made extensive +sales. Large quantities of goods were daily sent forward to the mines, +as the Indians, heretofore so poor and degraded, have suddenly become +consumers of the luxuries of life. I before mentioned that the greater +part of the farmers and rancheros had abandoned their fields to go to +the mines. This is not the case with Capt. Sutter, who was carefully +gathering his wheat, estimated at 40,000 bushels. Flour is already +worth at Sutter's $36 a barrel, and soon will be fifty. Unless large +quantities of breadstuffs reach the country, much suffering will occur; +but as each man is now able to pay a large price, it is believed the +merchants will bring from Chili and Oregon a plentiful supply for the +coming winter. + +The most moderate estimate I could obtain from men acquainted with the +subject, was, that upwards of four thousand men were working in the +gold district, of whom more than one-half were Indians; and that from +$30,000 to $50,000 worth of gold, if not more, was daily obtained. The +entire gold district, with very few exceptions of grants made some +years ago by the Mexican authorities, is on land belonging to the +United States. It was a matter of serious reflection with me, how I +could secure to the Government certain rents and fees for the privilege +of procuring this gold; but upon considering the large extent of +country, the character of the people engaged, and the small scattered +force at my command, I resolved not to interfere but to permit all to +work freely, unless broils and crimes should call for interferance. I +was surprised to learn that crime of any kind was very unfrequent, and +that no thefts or robberies had been committed in the gold district. + +All live in tents, in bush arbors, or in the open air; and men have +frequently about their persons thousands of dollars worth of this gold, +and it was to me a matter of surprise that so peaceful and quiet state +of things should continue to exist. Conflicting claims to particular +spots of ground may cause collisions, but they will be rare, as the +extent of country is so great, and the gold so abundant, that for the +present there is room enough for all. Still the Government is entitled +to rents for this land, and immediate steps should be devised to +collect them, for the longer it is delayed the more difficult it will +become. One plan I would suggest is, to send out from the United States +surveyors with high salaries, bound to serve specified periods. + +A superintendent to be appointed at Sutter's Fort, with power to grant +licenses to work a spot of ground--say 100 yards square--for one year, +at a rent of from 100 to 1,000 dollars, at his discretion; the +surveyors to measure the ground, and place the rentor in possession. + +A better plan, however, will be to have the district surveyed and sold +at public auction to the highest bidder, in small parcels--say from 20 +to 40 acres. In either case, there will be many intruders, whom for +years it will be almost impossible to exclude. + +The discovery of these vast deposits of gold has entirely changed the +character of Upper California. Its people, before engaged in +cultivating their small patches of ground, and guarding their herds of +cattle and, horses, have all gone to the mines, or are on their way +thither. Laborers of every trade have left their work benches, and +tradesmen their shops. Sailors desert their ships as fast as they +arrive on the coast, and several vessels have gone to sea with hardly +enough hands to spread a sail. Two or three are now at anchor in San +Francisco with no crew on board. Many desertions, too, have taken place +from the garrisons within the influence of these mines; twenty-six +soldiers have deserted from the post of Sonoma, twenty-four from that +of San Francisco, and twenty-four from Monterey. For a few days the +evil appeared so threatening, that great danger existed that the +garrisons would leave in a body; and I refer you to my orders of the +25th of July, to show the steps adopted to met this contingency. I +shall spare no exertions to apprehend and punish deserters, but I +believe no time in the history of our country has presented such +temptations to desert as now exist in California. + +The danger of apprehension is small, and the prospect of high wages +certain; pay and bounties are trifles, as laboring men at the mines can +now earn in _one day_ more than double a soldier's pay and allowances +for a month, and even the pay of a lieutenant or captain cannot hire a +servant. A carpenter or mechanic would not listen to an offer of less +than fifteen or twenty dollars a day. Could any combination of affairs +try a man's fidelity more than this? I really think some extraordinary +mark of favor should be given to those soldiers who remain faithful to +their flag throughout this tempting crisis. No officer can now live in +California on his pay, money has so little value; the prices of +necessary articles of clothing and subsistence are so exorbitant and +labor so high, that to hire a cook or servant has become an +impossibility, save to those who are earning from thirty to fifty +dollars a day. This state of things cannot last for ever. Yet from the +geographical position of California, and the new character it has +assumed as a mining country, prices of labor will always be high, and +will hold out temptations to desert. I therefore have to report, if the +Government wish to prevent desertions here on the part of men, and to +secure zeal on the part of officers, their pay must be increased very +materially. Soldiers, both of the volunteers and regular service, +discharged in this country, should be permitted at once to locate their +land warrants in the gold district. + +Many private letters have gone to the United States giving accounts of +the vast quantity of gold recently discovered, and it may be a matter +of surprise why I have made no report on this subject at an earlier +date. The reason is, that I could not bring myself to believe the +reports that I heard of the wealth of the gold district until I visited +it myself. I have no hesitation now in saying that there is more gold +in the country drained by the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers than +will pay the cost of the present war with Mexico a hundred times over. +No capital is required to obtain this gold, as the laboring man wants +nothing but his pick and shovel and tin pan, with which to dig and wash +the gravel; and many frequently pick gold out of the crevices of rocks +with their butcher knives in pieces from one to six ounces. + +Mr. Dye, a gentleman residing in Monterey, and worthy of every credit, +has just returned from Feather river. He tells me that the company to +which he belonged worked seven weeks and two days, with an average of +fifty Indians (washers) and that their gross product was 273 pounds of +gold. His share (one seventh,) after paying all expenses, is about +thirty-seven pounds, which he brought with him and exhibited in +Monterey. I see no laboring man from the mines who does not show his +two, three, or four pounds of gold. A soldier of the artillery company +returned here a few days ago from the mines, having been absent on +furlough twenty days. He made by trading and working during that time +$1500. During these twenty days he was traveling ten or eleven days, +leaving but a week, in which he made a sum of money greater than he +receives in pay, clothes, and rations during a whole enlistment of five +years. These statements appear incredible, but they are true. + +Gold is also believed to exist on the eastern slope of the Sierra +Nevada; and when at the mines, I was informed by an intelligent Mormon, +that it had been found near the Great Salt lake by some of his +fraternity. Nearly all the Mormons are leaving California to go to the +Salt lake, and this they surely would not do unless they were sure of +finding gold there in the same abundance as they now do on the +Sacramento. + +The gold "placer" near the mission of San Fernando has long been known, +but has been little wrought for want of water. This is a spur which +puts off from the Sierra Nevada, (see Fremont's map,) the same in which +the present mines occur. There is, therefore, every reason to believe, +that in the intervening spaces of 500 miles, (entirely unexplored,) +there must be many hidden and rich deposits. The "placer" gold is now +substituted as the currency of this country; in trade it passes freely +at $16 per ounce; as an article of commerce its value is not yet fixed. +The only purchase I made was of the specimen No. 7, which I got of Mr. +Neligh at $12 the ounce. That is about the present cash value in the +country, although it has been sold for less. The great demand for goods +and provisions made by sudden development of wealth, has increased the +amount of commerce at San Francisco very much, and it will continue to +increase. + +I would recommend that a mint be established at some eligible point of +the Bay of San Francisco; and that machinery, and all the necessary +apparatus and workmen, be sent out by sea. These workmen must be bound +by high wages, and even bonds, to secure their faithful services, else +the whole plan may be frustrated by their going to the mines as soon as +they arrive in California. If this course be not adopted, gold to the +amount of many millions of dollars will pass yearly to other countries, +to enrich their merchants and capitalists. Before leaving the subject +of mines, I will mention that on my return from the Sacramento, I +touched at New Almoder, the quicksilver mine of Mr. Alexander Forbes, +Consul of Her Britannic Majesty at Tepic. This mine is in a spur of the +mountains, 1000 feet above the level of the Bay of San Francisco, and +is distant in a southern direction from the Puebla de San José about +twelve miles. The ore (cinnabar) occurs in a large vein dipping at a +strong angle to the horizon. Mexican miners are employed in working it, +by driving shafts and galleries about six feet by seven, following the +vein. + +The fragments of rock and ore are removed on the backs of Indians, in +raw-hide sacks. The ore is then hauled in an ox wagon, from the mouth +of the mine down to a valley well supplied with wood and water, in +which the furnaces are situated. The furnaces are of the simplest +construction--exactly like a common bake-oven, in the crown of which is +inserted a whaler's frying-kettle; another inverted kettle forms the +lid. From a hole in the lid a small brick channel leads to an apartment +or chamber, in the bottom of which is inserted a small iron kettle. The +chamber has a chimney. + +In the morning of each day the kettles are filled with the mineral +(broken in small pieces) mixed with lime; fire is then applied and kept +up all day. The mercury is volatilized, passes into the chamber, is +condensed on the sides and bottom of the chamber, and flows into the +pot prepared for it. No water is used to condense the mercury. + +During a visit I made last spring, four such ovens were in operation, +and yielded in the two days I was there 656 pounds of quicksilver, +worth at Mazatlan $180 per pound. Mr. Walkinshaw, the gentleman now in +charge of this mine, tells me that the vein is improving, and that he +can afford to keep his people employed even in these extraordinary +times. The mine is very valuable of itself, and will become the more so +as mercury is extensively used in obtaining gold. It is not at present +used in California for that purpose, but will be at some future time. +When I was at this mine last spring, other parties were engaged in +searching for veins, but none have been discovered worth following up, +although the earth in that whole range of hills is highly discolored, +indicating the presence of this ore. I send several beautiful +specimens, properly labelled. The amount of quicksilver in Mr. Forbes' +vats on the 15th of July was about 2,500 pounds. + +I inclose you herewith sketches of the country through which I passed, +indicating the position of the mines and the topography of the country +in the vicinity of those I visited. + +Some of the specimens of gold accompanying this were presented for +transmission to the Department by the gentlemen named below. The +numbers on the topographical sketch corresponding to the labels of the +respective specimens, show from what part of the gold region they are +obtained. + +1. Captain J. A. Sutter. 2. John Sinclair. 3. Wm. Glover, R. C. Kirby, +Ira Blanchard, Levi Fifield, Franklin H. Arynes, Mormon diggings. 4. +Charles Weber. 5. Robert Spence. 6. Sunol & Co. 7. Robert D. Neligh. 8. +C. E. Picket, American Fort Columa. 9. E. C. Kemble. 10. T. H. Green, +from San Fernando, near Los Angelos. + A. 2 oz. purchased from Mr. Neligh. + B. Sand found in washing gold, which contains small particles. +11. Captain Frisbie, Dry Diggings, Weber's Creek. 12. Consumnes. 13. +Consumnes, Hartwell's Ranch. + +I have the honor to be your most ob't ser't, R. B. MASON, Col. 1st +Dragoons, Commanding. Brig. Gen. R. JONES, Adj. Gen. U. S. A., +Washington, D. C. + + +[NOTE.--The original letter, of which this is a copy, was sent to its +address, in charge of Lieut. L. Loeser, 3d Artillery, bearer of +dispatches, who sailed in the schooner Lambayecana, from Monterey, Aug. +30, 1848, bound for Payta, Peru. Lieut. Loeser bears, in addition to +the specimens mentioned in the foregoing letter, a tea-caddy containing +two hundred and thirty ounces fifteen pennyweights and nine grains of +gold. This was purchased at San Francisco by my order, and is sent to +you as a fair sample of the gold obtained from the mines of the +Sacramento. It is a mixture, coming from the various parts of the gold +district. + +R. B. MASON, Col. 1st Drag. Comd'g. HEADQUARTERS 10TH MIL. DEPARTMENT, +Monterey, (Cal.,) Sept. 10th, 1848.] + + + +* * * * * + + +PURITY OF CALIFORNIA GOLD DUST. + +The numerous analyses which have been made show that the gold dust of +California is remarkably pure. The editor of the Buffalo Commercial +Advertiser, under date of December 20th, 1848, says:-- + +"A small quantity of California gold was shown us this morning. It was +in grains, about the size and shape of flax seed. Altogether there was +half an ounce. It was received by a gentleman of this city, who, last +year, left a quantity of goods in California for sale on commission. A +few days ago he received advices that his goods had been sold, and the +proceeds remitted in gold dust to New York. The receipts from the mint +show its great purity. The weight before melting was 428 ounces; after +melting 417. Nett value, $7,685.49." + +Gold is seldom found, in any parts of the earth, more than 22 carats +fine: and it will be seen by the following report lately made by an +experienced smelter and refiner, Mr. John Warwick, of New York city, +that the gold dust of California is as pure as that found in any part +of this country. Probably there is none in Europe purer: + +"I have assayed the portion of gold dust, or metal, from California, +sent me, and the result shows that it is fully equal to any found in +our Southern gold mines. + +I return you 103/4 grains out of the 12 which I have tested--the value +of which is 45 cents. It is 211/2 carats fine--within half a carat of +the quality of English sovereigns or American Eagles, and is almost +ready to go to the mint. + +The finest gold metal we get is from Africa, which is 221/2 to 23 +carats fine. In Virginia we have mines where the quality of the gold is +much inferior--some of it as low as 19 carats, and in Georgia the mines +produce it nearly 22 carats fine. + +The gold of California which I have now assayed, is fully equal to that +of any, and much superior to some produced from the mines in our +Southern States." + + + +* * * * * + + +PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF CALIFORNIA. + +Whatever appertains to California, the new El Dorado of the southwest, +is interesting to Americans and indeed to the whole civilized world. +The following brief account, therefore, of its physical geography, +compiled from authentic sources and carefully condensed, will readily +receive the attention of the inquiring mind: + +"Upper California extends, upon the Pacific, from the 32d parallel of +latitude, about seven hundred miles north-westward to Oregon, from +which it is divided, nearly in the course of the 42d parallel--that is +in the latitude of Boston--by a chain of highlands called the Snowy +Mountains; the Sierra Nevada of the Spaniards. Its boundaries on the +west are not, as yet, politically determined by the Mexican government; +nor do geographers agree with regard to natural limits in that +direction. By some, it is considered as embracing only the territory +between the Pacific and the summit of the mountains which border the +western side of the continent: others extend its limits to the +Colorado; while others include in it, and others again exclude from it, +the entire regions drained by that river. The only portion occupied by +Mexicans, or of which any distinct accounts have been obtained, is that +between the great chain of mountains and the ocean; the country east of +that ridge to the Colorado appears to be an uninhabitable desert. + +"Northward from the Peninsula, or Lower California, the great +western-most chain of mountains continues nearly parallel with the +Pacific coast, to the 34th degree of latitude, under which rises Mount +San Bernardin, one of the highest peaks in California, about forty +miles from the ocean. Further north the coast turns more to the west, +and the space between it and the summit line of the mountains becomes +wider, so as to exceed eighty miles in some places; the intermediate +region being traversed by lines of hills, or smaller mountains, +connected with the main range. The principal of these inferior ridges +extends from Mount San Bernardin north-westward to its termination on +the south side of the entrance of the Bay of San Franciso, near the +38th degree of latitude, where it is called the San Bruno Mountains. +Between this range and the coast run the San Barbara Mountains, +terminating on the north at the Cape of Pines, on the south-west side +of the Bay of Monterey, near the latitude 361/2 degrees. North of the +San Bruno mountains is the Bolbones ridge, bordering the Bay of San +Francisco on the east; and still further in the same direction are +other and much higher lines of highlands, stretching from the great +chain and terminating in capes on the Pacific. + +"The southern part of Upper California, between the Pacific and the +great westernmost chain of mountains, is very hot and dry, except +during a short time in winter. Further north the wet season increases +in length, and about the Bay of San Francisco the rains are almost +constant from November to April, the earth being moistened during the +remainder of the year by heavy dews and fogs. Snow and ice are +sometimes seen in the winter on the shores of the bay, but never +further south, except on the mountain tops. The whole of California is, +however, subject to long droughts." Heavy rains are of rare occurrence, +and two years without any is not unusual; notwithstanding which, +vegetation does not suffer to the extent that might be inferred, +because, in the first place, many small streams descend from the +mountain ranges, supplying the means of both natural and artificial +irrigation; and, next, that the country near the coast is favored with +a diurnal land and sea breeze; and, from the comparatively low +temperature of the sea, the latter is always in summer accompanied with +fogs, in the latter part of the night, and which are dissipated by the +morning's sun, but serve to moisten the pastures and nourish a somewhat +peculiar vegetation abounding in beautiful flowers. + +"Among the valleys of Upper California are many streams, some of which +discharge large quantities of water in the rainy season; but no river +is known to flow through the maritime ridge of mountains from the +interior to the Pacific, except perhaps the Sacramento, falling into +the Bay of San Francisco, though several are thus represented on the +maps. The valleys thus watered afford abundant pasturage for cattle, +with which they are covered; California, however, contains but two +tracts of country capable of supporting large numbers of inhabitants, +which are that west of Mt. San Bernardin, about the 34th degree of +latitude, and that surrounding the Bay of San Francisco, and the lower +part of the Sacramento; and even in these, irrigation would be +indispensable to insure success in agriculture." + +"The provincial terms of New Mexico, and of Upper and Lower California, +have been, and are yet, rather designations of indefinite tracts than +of real defined political sections. The Pacific ocean limits on the +west, and by treaty, N. lat. 42° on the north; but inland and +southward, it is in vain to seek any definite boundary. In order, +however, to give as distinct a view as the nature of the case will +admit, let us adopt the mouth of the Colorado and Gila, or the head of +the Gulf of California, as a point on the southern boundary of Upper +California. The point assumed coincides very nearly with N. lat. 32° +and, if adopted, would give to that country a breadth of ten degrees of +latitude or in round numbers 800 statute miles from south to north. As +already, stated, the Pacific Ocean bounds this country on the west, and +lat. 42° on the north. To separate it on the east from New Mexico, we +must assume the mountain chain of Sierra Madre, or Anahuac, which, in +this region, inclines but little from north to south: whilst the +Pacific coast extends in general course north-west and south-east. +These opposite outlines contract the southern side to about 500 miles, +and open the northern side to rather above 800 miles; giving a mean +breadth of 650 miles. The area, for all general purposes, may be safely +taken at 500,000 square miles. The general slope or declination of this +great region is westward, towards the Pacific and Gulf of California." + +"The climate of the western slope of North America has a warmth ten +degrees at least higher than the eastern, upon similar latitude. The +cause of this difference is the course of prevailing winds in the +temperate zones of the earth, from the western points. Thus the winds +on the western side of the continent are from the ocean, and on the +eastern from the land. + +"The soil is as variable as the face of the country. On the coast range +of hills there is little to invite the agriculturist, except in some +vales of no great extent. The hills are, however, admirably adapted for +raising herds and flocks, and are at present the feeding-grounds of +numerous deer, elk, &c., to which the short, sweet grass and wild oats +that are spread over them afford a plentiful supply of food. The valley +of the Sacramento, and that of San Juan, are the most fruitful parts of +California, particularly the latter, which is capable of producing +wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, &c., with all the fruits of the +temperate, and many of the tropical climates. It likewise offers +pasture grounds for cattle. This region comprises a level plain, from +fifteen to twenty miles in width, extending from the Bay of San +Francisco, beyond the mission of that name, north and south. This may +be termed the garden of California; but although several small streams +and lakes serve to water it, yet in dry seasons or droughts, not only +the crops but the herbage also suffers extremely, and the cattle are +deprived of food." The most extensive portion of Upper California--the +inland plain between the California and the Colorado range of +mountains--is an arid waste, destitute of the requisites for supplying +the wants of man. This plain is a waste of sand, with a few detached +mountains (some of which rise to the region of perpetual snow,) whose +positions are unknown; from these flow small streams that are soon lost +in the sand. A few Indians are scattered over the plain, the most +miserable objects in creation." + +The climate is very peculiar, the thermometer on the coast ranging as +high, on the average, in winter as in summer. Indeed, summer is really +the coldest and most disagreeable part of the year, owing to the +north-west winds which frequently prevail during that season. As you +recede from the coast, however, the climate undergoes a great change +for the better. At San Juan, thirty miles from the coast, is one of the +most delightful climates in the world. The two principal rivers in +Upper California are the Sacramento and the San Joaquim. There are, +however, many smaller streams flowing through the different valleys, +which serve, during the dry season, to irrigate the land. The only +navigable stream is the Sacramento. + +Beside the bays and harbors of Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Pedro, +Upper California possesses the harbor of San Francisco, within a few +miles of the Gold Mines, and one of the largest and most magnificent +harbors in the world. + +The yield of wheat, small grain, and vegetables, is said to be great, +and very remarkable, but, as agriculture cannot succeed in Upper +California, but by irrigation, it has hitherto happened that it has +been principally occupied as a pastoral country--as costing less labor +to rear cattle, for which it is only necessary to provide keepers, and +have them marked. The numerous animals which are there slaughtered for +little more than their hides and tallow, do not putrify and become +offensive as they would in other climates, but, as wood is not +everywhere as abundant as their bones, the last are sometimes used to +supply the place of the former, in the construction of garden fences &c. + +"The area of Upper California is about 500,000 square miles, and the +population, exclusive of Indians scattered over this extent, as follows: + +Californians descended from Spain,----------------- 4000 Americans from +United States,---------------------- 360 English, Scotch, and +Irish,------------------------ 300 European +Spaniards,-------------------------------- 80 French and +Canadians,------------------------------ 80 Germans, Italians, +Portugese, and Sandwich Islanders, 90 +Mexicans,------------------------------------------ 90 + ____ +Total---------------------------------------------- 5000 + +"Upper California is, on the whole, admirably fitted for colonization. +This province presents the greatest facilities for raising cattle, for +cultivating corn, plants, and for the grape; it might contain twenty +millions of inhabitants; and its ports are a point of necessary +communication for vessels going from China and Asia to the western +coasts of North America. + +"It is beyond doubt, that so soon as an intelligent and laborious +population is established there, this country will occupy an elevated +rank in the commercial scale; it would form the _entrepôt_ where the +coasts of the great ocean would send their products, and would furnish +the greatest part of their subsistence in grains to the north-west, to +Mexico, to Central America, to Ecuador, to Peru, to the north coast of +Asia, and to many groups of Polynesia--such as the Sandwich isles, the +Marquesas, and Tahiti." + +"The peninsula of Lower California, extending from Cape San Lucas to +the Bay of Todos Santos, in lat. 32° N., on the Pacific, and to the +mouth of the Colorado on the Gulf side, is a pile of volcanic debris +and scoriae. Much of the surface is still heated by subterranean fires. +No craters are in action; but hot springs of water and bitumen, and +frequent earthquakes, and the scorched face of the whole region, +demonstrate it to be a mere mass upheaved from the sea, and burned to +cinders. The range of mountains that comes up through Lower California, +runs on northwardly into Upper California, at an average distance of +sixty or seventy miles from the sea, till it falls away into low hills +south of the bay of San Francisco. This, also, is a volcanic range; +though not so strongly marked to that effect in the Upper as in the +Lower Province. + +"Some portions of this range are lofty. That part lying east and +southeast of El Pueblo de los Angelos, is tipped with perpetual snows. +But the greater part of it presents a base covered up to more than half +of the whole elevation with pine and cedar forests; the remaining +height being composed of bare, dark, glistening rocks, lying in +confused masses, or turreted in the manner observed on the Black Hills +in the Great Prairie Wilderness---spires, towers, and battlements, +lifted up to heaven, among which the white feathery clouds of beautiful +days rest shining in the mellow sun. + +"The Snowy Mountain range is perhaps the boldest and most peculiar of +the California highlands. Its western terminus is Cape Mendocino, a +bold snow-capped headland, bending over the Pacific in 40° north +latitude. Its western terminus is in the Wind River Mountains, latitude +42° N., about seven hundred miles from the sea. Its peculiarity +consists in what may be termed its confused geological character. Near +the sea its rocks are primitive, its strata regular. A hundred miles +from the sea where the President's range crosses it, everything is +fused--burned; and at the distance of seventy miles northeastwardly +from the Bay of San Francisco, a spur comes off with a lofty peak, +which pours out immense quantities of lava, and shoots up a flame so +broad and bright as to be seen at sea, and to produce distinct shadows +at eighty miles' distance. Here is an extensive tract of this range +which has been burned, and whose strata have been torn from their +natural positions; displaying an amalgamated mass of primitive rock _ex +loco_, mingled with various descriptions of volcanic remains. From this +point eastward, it is a broken irregular chain of peaks and rifted +collateral ranges, and spurs running off northwardly and southwardly, +some of which are primitive and others volcanic. + +"Another range of mountains which deserves notice in this place, is +that which bounds the valley of the San Joaquim on the east. This is a +wide and towering range. It is in fact a continuation of the +President's range, and partakes very strongly of its volcanic +character. That part of it which lies eastwardly from the Bay of San +Francisco, is very broad and lofty. One of its peaks, Mount Jackson, as +it is called, is the highest in all the President's range. Mountains of +great size are piled around it, but they appear like molehills beside +that veteran mount. Its vast peak towers over them all several thousand +feet, a glittering cone of ice. + +"All over the Californias, the traveler finds evidences of volcanic +action. Far in the interior, among the deserts; in the streams; in the +heights; in the plains; everywhere, are manifestations of the fact, +that the current of subterranean fire which crossed the Pacific, +throwing up that line of islands lying on the south of the Sea of +Kamschatka, and passed down the continent, upheaving the Oregon +territory, did also bring up from the bed of the ocean the Californias. + +"The peninsula, or lower California, which extends from Cape San Lucas +in N. lat. 22° 48', to the Bay of Todos Santos in lat. 32° N., is a +pile of barren, volcanic mountains, with very few streams, and still +fewer spots of ground capable of sustaining vegetation. The territory +lying north and south of the Colorado of the west, and within the +boundaries of the Californias, is a howling desolation. + +"From the highlands near the mouth of the Rio Colorado, a wild and +somewhat interesting scene opens. In the east appears a line of +mountains of a dark hue, stretching down the coast of the Gulf as far +as the eye can reach. These heights are generally destitute of trees; +but timber grows in some of the ravines. The general aspect, however, +is far from pleasing. There is such a vastness of monotonous +desolation; so dry, so blistered with volcanic fires; so forbidding to +the wants of thirsting and hungering men, that one gladly turns his eye +upon the water, the _Mar de Cortez_, the Gulf of California. The +Colorado, two and a half miles in width, rushes into this Gulf with +great force, lashing as it goes the small islands lying at its mouth, +and for many leagues around the waters of the Gulf are discolored by +its turbulent flood. On the west, sweep away the mountains of Lower +California. These also are a thirsty mass of burned rocks, so dry that +vegetation finds no resting-place among them. + +"That province of Lower California varies from thirty to one hundred +and fifty miles in width, a superficial extent almost equal to that of +Great Britain; and yet on account of its barrenness, never will, from +the products of the soil, maintain five hundred thousand people in a +state of comfort, ordinarily found in the civilized condition. Every +few years tornadoes sweep over the country with such violence, and +bearing with them such floods of rain, that whatever of soil has been +in any manner previously formed, is swept into the sea. So that even +those little nooks among the mountains, where the inhabitants from time +to time make their fields, and task the vexed earth for a scanty +subsistence, are liable to be laid bare by the torrents. In case the +soil chance to be lodged in some other dell, before it reach the Ocean +or the Gulf, and the people follow it to its new location, they find +perhaps no water there and cannot cultivate it. Consequently they are +often driven by dreadful want to some other point in quest of +sustenance, where they may not find it, and perish among the parched +highlands. The mean range of temperature in the whole country in the +summer season is from 60° to 74° Fahrenheit. The rains fall in the +winter months; are very severe, and of short duration. During the +remainder of the year the air is dry and clear; and the sky more +beautiful than the imagination can conceive. + +"The range of mountains occupying the whole interior of this country, +vary in height from one to five thousand feet above the level of the +sea. They are almost bare of all verdure, mere brown piles of +barrenness, sprinkled here and there with a cluster of briars, small +shrubs, or dwarf trees. Among the ridges are a few spots to which the +sweeping rains have spared a little soil. These, if watered by springs +or streams, are beautiful and productive. There are also a few places +near the coast which are well adapted to tillage and pasturage. + +"But the principal difficulty with this region, is one common to all +countries of volcanic, origin,--a scarcity of water. The porousness of +the rocks allows it to pass under ground to the sea. Consequently one +finds few streams and springs in Lower California. From the Cape San +Lucas to the mouth of the Colorado, six hundred miles, there are only +two streams emptying into the Gulf. One of these is called San Josef +del Cabo. It passes through the plantations of the Mission bearing the +same name, and discharges itself into the bay of San Barnabas. The +other is the Mulege, which waters the Mission of Santa Rosalia, and +enters the Gulf in latitude 27° N. These are not navigable. The streams +on the ocean coast, also, are few and small. Some of them are large +enough to propel light machinery, or irrigate considerable tracts of +land, but none of them are navigable. In the interior are several large +springs, which send out abundant currents along the rocky beds of their +upper courses; but when they reach the loose sands and porous rocks of +the lower country, they sink and enter the sea through subterranean +channels. A great misfortune it is too, that the lands which border +those portions of these streams which run above the ground, consist of +barren rocks. Where springs, however, and arable land occur together, +immense fertility is the consequence. There is some variety of climate +on the coasts, which it may be well to mention. On the Pacific shore +the temperature is rendered delightfully balmy by the sea breezes, and +the humidity which they bring along with them. Fahrenheit's thermometer +ranges on this coast, during the summer, between fifty-eight and +seventy-one degrees. In the winter months, while the rains are falling, +it sinks as low as fifty degrees above zero. On the Gulf coast there is +a still greater variation. While at the Cape, the mercury stands +between sixty and seventy degrees, near the head of the Gulf it is down +to the freezing point. + +"These isolated facts, in regard to the great territory under +consideration, will give the reader as perfect an idea of the surface +and agricultural capacities of Lower California as will be here needed. + + + +* * * * * + + +DIFFERENT ROUTES TO CALIFORNIA. + +There are four different routes to California from the United States. +One is from New York to Vera Cruz, thence across Mexico by the +_Diligencia_, to Acapulco on the Pacific, where all the northern bound +vessels touch. This route would be preferable to all others, were it +not for the fact that the road from Vera Cruz to Acapulco is infested +with robbers. + +Another route is by steam around Cape Horn--a long voyage, though +perhaps the cheapest route. It should be performed in our winter, when +it is summer in the Southern Hemisphere and consequently warmer at Cape +Horn than at any other season of the year. The fare on this route by +steam is about $350. The time of performing the voyage is about 130 +days. + +Another route is by the Isthmus of Darien. The fare on this route is as +follows: + +From New York to Chagres (by steam)---------- $150 From Chagres to +Panama, across the Isthmus--- 20 From Panama to San +Francisco----------------- 250 From New York to Chagres (by sailing +vessel)- 80 + +The time of the voyage is as follows:-- + +From New York to Chagres----- 12 to 15 days. From Chagres to +Panama------- 2 " From Panama to San Francisco- 20 " + +The following description of Chagres and Panama, will be found both +interesting and valuable to the traveler on this route. + + +THE TOWN OF CHAGRES, + +as it is usually called, but in reality village, or collection of huts, +is, as is well known, situated at the mouth of the river Chagres, where +it empties itself into the Atlantic ocean. + +It is but a small village, and the harbor is likewise small, though +secure. It is formed by the jutting out of a narrow neck of land, and +is defended by the castle, which is built on a high bluff on the other +side. The village itself, as I have before said, is merely a collection +of huts, and is situated in the midst of a swamp--at least the ground +is low, and the continual rains which prevail at Chagres, keep it in a +swampy condition. Chagres is inhabited by colored people, entirely, +with the exception of some few officials at the castle and in the +custom-house. Its population, (I speak, of course, of it previous to +the influx,) was probably not more than 500 in all, if so much. + + +ITS CLIMATE + +is, without doubt, the most pestiferous for whites in the whole world. +The coast of Africa, which enjoys a dreadful reputation in this way, is +not so deadly in its climate as is Chagres. The thermometer ranges from +78° to 85° all the year, and it rains every day. Many a traveler who +has incautiously remained there for a few days and nights, has had +cause to remember Chagres; and many a gallant crew, who have entered +the harbor in full health, have, ere many days, found their final +resting place on the dank and malarious banks of the river. Bilious, +remittent, and congestive fever, in their most malignant forms, seem to +hover over Chagres, ever ready to pounce down on the stranger. Even the +acclimated resident of the tropics runs a great risk in staying any +time in Chagres; but the stranger fresh from the North and its +invigorating breezes, runs a most fearful one. + + +THE RIVER JOURNEY + +is performed in canoes, propelled up the stream by means of poles. +There are two points at which one may land, viz: the villages of +Gorgona and Cruces. The distance from Chagres to the first named, is +about 45 or 50 miles--to the latter, some 50 or 55 miles. The traveler, +who for the first time in his life embarks on a South American river +like the Chagres, cannot fail to experience a singular depression of +spirits at the dark and sombre aspect of the scene. In the first place, +he finds himself in a canoe, so small that he is forced to lay quietly +in the very centre of the stern portion, in order to prevent it +upsetting. The palm leaf thatch (or _toldo_, as it is termed on the +river) over his portion of the boat, shuts out much of the view, while +his baggage, piled carefully amidships, and covered with oil cloths, +_encerrados_ as they are termed, is under the charge of his active +boatman, who, stripped to the buff, with long pole in hand, expertly +propels the boat up stream, with many a cry and strange exclamation. +The river itself is a dark, muddy, and rapid stream; in some parts +quite narrow, and again at other points it is from 300 to 500 yards +wide. Let no one fancy that it resembles the bright and cheerful rivers +which are met with here at the North. No pleasant villages adorn its +banks--no signs of civilization are seen on them, nothing but the +sombre primeval forest, which grows with all the luxury of the tropics +down to the very margin of its swampy banks. + +A light canoe with two active boatmen and but one passenger in it, will +reach Cruces in ten or twelve hours, whilst a heavier one might require +thirty-six hours to accomplish the passage. The passenger must take his +provisions with him, as none are to be had on the river. + +A doubloon ($16) was the lowest charge for a single passenger, and from +that up to two, three, and even four doubloons. As for taking our boats +from here, and rowing them up the river, I should think it would be a +hopeless attempt. Hardy boatmen from our southwestern States, who are +accustomed to a much similar mode of travel on their rivers, would +probably be able to accomplish it; but in that burning and unhealthy +climate, for young men fresh from the North, unacquainted with the +dangers of such navigation, and all unacclimated, to attempt such a +feat would be madness indeed. + +Let us, however, suppose the journey completed, and our adventurer +safely arrived at + +CRUCES + +He may now congratulate himself on having achieved the most toilsome +part of his journey, and but twenty-one miles of land route intervene +between him and the glorious Pacific Ocean. Cruces is a small village, +situated on a plain, immediately on the banks of the river, which here +are high and sandy. Gorgona, the other landing place, is a few miles +below Cruces, and is likewise a small village, very similar to +Cruces--in fact, all South American villages resemble one another very +much. From these two points, both about the same distance from Panama, +there are roads to that city, which roads unite about nine miles from +it. Starting from either point he commences his + +JOURNEY ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. + +The usual method of performing it, is on horse or on mule-back, with +another mule to carry the baggage and a muleteer who acts as guide. The +road is a mere bridle path, and as the rains on the Isthmus are very +heavy, and there is more or less of them all the year round, the +mud-holes and swampy places to be crossed are very numerous. Those who, +at the North, talk gaily of a walk across the Isthmus, as if the road +were as plain and easy as some of our macadamized turnpikes, would +alter their tone a little, could they see the road as it is. As for +walking from Cruces to Panama, in case mules are scarce, the feat is by +no means impossible, provided the traveler arrives in Cruces in good +health, and has but little baggage. It might easily be done with the +assistance of a guide; but let no stranger, unacquainted with the +language and new to such countries, attempt it without a guide. Having, +then, fairly started from Cruces, either on horse or on foot, after a +toilsome journey of some eight or ten hours, the Savanna of Panama is +at last reached, and the sight of the broad and glittering Pacific +Ocean, and the white towers of the Cathedral of Panama, which are seen +at the distance of about four miles from the city, give the now weary +traveler assurance that his journey will shortly end; and another +hour's toil brings him to the suburbs of the famed + + +CITY OF PANAMA. + +We will find, however, that with this, as with most other South +American cities, + +"'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, And clothes the mountain +with its azure hue." + +The city of Panama is situated on the shores of the bay of that name, +and a most beautiful bay it is, too. What is the number of the present +population, I cannot say, as it is doubtless filled with strangers--it +formerly contained from 5000 to 7000 inhabitants, and was a quiet, +still city, where, during the day, nought but the sounds of the convent +bell and church bells disturbed the horses of the citizens in their +grazings in the public squares, which were all overgrown with grass. +The trade carried on consisted in importing dry goods from Jamaica, for +the supply of the Isthmenians, the neighboring produce of Veragua, the +Pearl Islands, the towns of Chiriqui, David, and their vicinities, and +the various little inland towns. Goods also were sent down to the ports +of Payta, in Peru, and Guayaquil, in the Ecuador. The returns made for +these goods, consisted in the produce of the Isthmus: such as gold +dust, hides, India rubber, pearl oyster shells, (from which the mother +of pearl of commerce is made,) sarsaparilla, &c. The climate is warm, +say from 80 to 85 degrees all the year round--the rainy season long and +severe. The nights in Panama, however, are much cooler than usual in +tropical climate. + +The other route is the overland, by Independence. The details of this +route are given below by Mr. Edwin Bryant, the author of "What I saw in +California." They were communicated to the Louisville Courier in answer +to questions but to Mr. B. by the editor: + +_First_--Which route by land is the best for the emigrant? + +_Answer_--The route via Independence or St. Joseph, Missouri, to Fort +Daramie, South Pass, Fort Hall, the Sink of Mary's River, &c. &c. the +old route. Let no emigrant, carrying his family with him, deviate from +it, or imagine to himself that he can find a better road. This road is +the best that has yet been discovered, and to the Bay of San Francisco +and the gold regions it is much the shortest. The Indians, moreover, on +this route, have, up to the present time been so friendly as to commit +no acts of hostility on the emigrants. The trail is plain and good, +where there are no physical obstructions and the emigrant, by taking +this route, will certainly reach his destination in good season, and +without disaster. From our information we would most earnestly advise +all emigrants to take this trail, without deviation, if they would +avoid the fatal calamities which almost invariably have attended those +who have undertaken to explore new routes. + +_Second_--What kind of wagon and team is preferable? + +_Answer_--The lightest wagon that can be constructed of sufficient +strength to carry 2,500 pounds weight, as the vehicle most desirable. +No wagon should be loaded over this weight, for if it is, it will be +certain to stall in the muddy sloughs and crossings on the prairie in +the first part of the journey. This wagon can be hauled by three or +four yokes of oxen or six mules. Oxen are usually employed by the +immigrants for hauling their wagons. They travel about fifteen miles +per day, and all things considered, are perhaps equal to mules for this +service, although they cannot travel so fast. They are, however, less +expensive, and there is not so much danger of their starving and of +being stolen by the Indians. + +Pack-mules can only be employed by parties of men. It would be very +difficult to transport a party of women and children on pack-mules with +the provisions, clothing and baggage necessary to their comfort. A +party of men, however, with pack-mules, can make the journey in less +time by one month than it can be done in wagons, carrying with them, +however, nothing more than their provisions clothing and ammunition. + +For parties of men going out, it would be well to haul their wagons, +provisions, &c., as far as Fort Laramie or Fort Hall by mules, carrying +with them pack-saddles and _alforgases_, or large saddle-bags, adapted +to the pack saddle, with ropes for packing, &c., when, if they saw +proper, they could dispose of their wagons for Indian ponies, and pack +into California, gaining perhaps two or three weeks' time. + +_Third_--What provisions are necessary to a man? + +_Answer_-- The provisions actually necessary per man are as follows. + + Of Flour, .....150 lbs. | Of Bacon, ..... 150 lbs. + Coffee,..... 25 " | Sugar, ...... 30 " + +Added to these, the main items, there should be a small quantity of +rice, fifty or seventy-five pounds of crackers, dried peaches, &c., and +a keg of lard, with salt, pepper, &c., with such other luxuries of +light weight as the person out-fitting chooses to purchase. He will +think of them before he starts. + +_Fourth_--What arms and ammunition are necessary? + +_Answer_--Every man should be provided with a good rifle, and if +convenient with a pair of pistols, five pounds of powder and ten pounds +of lead. A revolving belt pistol may be found useful. + +With the wagon there should be carried such carpenter's tools as a +hand-saw, auger, gimblet, chisel, shaving-knife, &c., an axe, hammer, +and hatchet. The last weapon every man should have in his belt, with a +hunter's or a bowie knife. + +_Fifth_--What is the length of the journey? + +_Answer_--From Independence to the first settlement in California, +which is near the gold region, is about 2050 miles--to San Francisco, +2290 miles. + +_Sixth_--What is the time for starting? + +_Answer_--Emigrants should be at Independence, St. Joseph, Mo., or the +point of starting, by the 20th of April, and start as soon thereafter +as the grass on the prairies will permit. This is sometimes by the +first of May, and sometimes ten days later, according to the season. + + + +* * * * * + + +THE GOLD REGIONS--MISCELLANEOUS MATTER. + +The following extract is from a letter written by Thomas O. Larkin to +Mr. Buchanan, the Secretary of State. It is dated at Monterey, June 28, +1848. + +I am of the opinion that on the American fork, Feather River, and +Copimes River, there are near two thousand people, nine-tenths of them +foreigners. Perhaps there are one hundred families, who have their +teams, wagons and tents. Many persons are waiting to see whether the +months of July and August will be sickly, before they leave their +present business to go to the "Placer." The discovery of this gold was +made by some Mormons, in January or February, who for a time kept it a +secret; the majority of those who are working there began in May. In +most every instance the men, after digging a few days, have been +compelled to leave for the purpose of returning home to see their +families, arrange their business and purchase provisions. I feel +confident in saying there are fifty men in this "placer" who have on an +average $1000 each, obtained in May and June. I have not met with any +person who had been fully employed in washing gold one month; most, +however, appear to have averaged an ounce per day. I think there must, +by, this time, be over 1000 men at work upon the different branches of +the Sacramento; putting their gains at $10,000 per day, for six days in +the week, appears to me not overrated. + +Should this news reach the emigration of California and Oregon, now on +the road, connected with the Indian wars, now impoverishing the latter +country, we should have a large addition to our population; and should +the richness of the gold region continue, our emigrants in 1849 will be +many thousand, and in 1850 still more. If our countrymen in California +as clerks, mechanics and workmen will forsake employment at from $2 to +$6 per day, how many more of the same class in the Atlantic States, +earning much less, will leave for this country under such prospects? It +is the opinion of many who have visited the gold regions the past and +present months, that the ground will afford gold for many years, +perhaps for a century. From my own examination of the rivers and their +banks, I am of opinion that, at least for a few years, the golden +products will equal the present year. However, as neither men of +science, nor the laborers now at work, have made any explorations of +consequence, it is a matter of impossibility to give any opinion as to +the extent and richness of this part of California. Every Mexican who +has seen the place says throughout their Republic there has never been +any "placer like this one." + +Could Mr. Polk and yourself see California as we now see it, you would +think that a few thousand people, on 100 miles square of the Sacramento +valley, would yearly turn out of this river the whole price our country +pays for the acquired territory. When I finished my first letter I +doubted my own writing, and, to be better satisfied, showed it to one +of the principal merchants of San Francisco, and to Capt. Folsom, of +the Quartermaster's Department, who decided at once I was far below the +reality. You certainly will suppose, from my two letters, that I am, +like others, led away by the excitement of the day. I think I am not. +In my last I inclosed a small sample of the gold dust, and I find my +only error was in putting a value to the sand. At that time I was not +aware how the gold was found; I now can describe the mode of collecting +it. + +A person without a machine, after digging off one or two feet of the +upper ground, near the water (in some cases they take the top earth,) +throws into a tin pan or wooden bowl a shovel full of loose dirt and +stones; then placing the basin an inch or two under water, continues to +stir up the dirt with his hand in such a manner that the running water +will carry off the light earths, occasionally, with his hand, throwing +out the stones; after an operation of this kind for twenty or thirty +minutes, a spoonful of small black sand remains; this is, on a +handkerchief or cloth, dried in the sun, the emerge is blown off, +leaving the pure gold. I have the pleasure of inclosing a paper of this +sand and gold, which I, from a bucket of dirt and stones, in half an +hour, standing at the edge of the water, washed out myself. The value +of it may be $2 or $3. + +The size of the gold depends in some measure upon the river from which +it is taken, the banks of one river having larger grains of gold than +another. I presume more than one-half of the gold put into pans or +machines is washed out and goes down the stream; this is of no +consequence to the washers, who care only for the present time. Some +have formed companies of four or five men, and have a rough-made +machine put together in a day, which worked to much advantage, yet many +prefer to work alone, with a wooden bowl or tin pan, worth fifteen or +twenty cents in the States, but eight to sixteen dollars at the gold +region. As the workmen continue, and materials can be obtained, +improvements will take place in the mode of obtaining gold; at present +it is obtained by standing in the water, and with much severe labor, or +such as is called here severe labor. + +How long this gathering of gold by the handful will continue here, or +the future effect it will have on California, I cannot say. +Three-fourths of the houses in the town on the Bay of San Francisco are +deserted. Houses are sold at the price of the ground lots. The effects +are this week showing themselves in Monterey. Almost every house I had +hired out is given up. Every blacksmith, carpenter and lawyer is +leaving; brick yards, saw mills and ranches are left perfectly alone. A +large number of the volunteers at San Francisco and Sonoma have +deserted; some have been retaken and brought back; public and private +vessels are losing their crews: my clerks have had 100 per cent advance +offered them on their wages to accept employment. A complete revolution +in the ordinary state of affairs is taking place; both of our +newspapers are discontinued from want of workmen and the loss of their +agencies; the Alcaldes have left San Francisco, and I believe Sonoma +likewise; the former place has not a Justice of the Peace left. + +The second Alcalde of Monterey to-day joins the keepers of our +principal hotel, who have closed their office and house, and will leave +tomorrow for the golden rivers. I saw on the ground a lawyer who was +last year Attorney General of the King of the Sandwich Islands, digging +and washing out his ounce and a half per day; near him can be found +most all his brethren of the long robe, working in the same occupation. + +To conclude; my letter is long, but I could not well describe what I +have seen in less words, and I now can believe that my account may be +doubted; if the affair proves a bubble, a mere excitement, I know not +how we can all be deceived, as we are situated. Gov. Mason and his +staff have left Monterey to visit the place in question, and will, I +suppose, soon forward to his department his views and opinions on this +subject. Most of the land where gold has been discovered, is public +land; there are, on different rivers, some private grants. I have three +such, purchased in 1846 and '47, but have not learned that any private +lands have produced gold, though they may hereafter do so. + + + +* * * * * + + +Here is a letter of great sprightliness, beauty and interest, prepared +by that finished scholar and noted writer, the Rev. Walter Colton, +Alcalde of Monterey. + +MONTEREY, California, Aug. 29, 1848. + +The gold discoveries still continue--every day brings some new deposit +to light. It has been found in large quantities on the Sacramento, +Feather River, Yerba River, the American fork--North and South +branches--the Cosamer, and in many dry ravines, and indeed on the tops +of high hills The tract of country in which it is ascertained to exist, +extends some two hundred miles North and South, and some sixty East and +West; and these limits are every day enlarging by new discoveries. On +the streams where the gold has been subjected to the action of water +and sand, it exists in fine grains; on the hills and among the clefts +of the rocks it is found in rough, jagged pieces of a quarter or half +an ounce in weight, and sometimes two or three ounces. + +The gold is obtained in a variety of ways; some wash it out of the sand +with bowls, some with a machine made like a cradle, only longer and +open at the foot, while at the other end, instead of a squalling +infant, there is a grating upon which the earth is thrown, and then +water; both pass through the grating,--the cradle is rocked, and being +on an inclined plane, the water carries off the earth, and the gold is +deposited in the bottom of the cradle. So the two things most prized in +this world, gold and infant beauty, are both rocked out of their +primitive stage, one to pamper pride, and the other to pamper the worm. +Some forego cradles and bowls as too tame an occupation, and mounted on +horses, half wild, dash up the mountain gorges and over the steep +hills, picking the gold from the clefts of the rocks with their bowie +knives,--a much better use to make of these instruments than picking +the life out of men's bodies; for what is a man with that article +picked out of him? + +A larger party, well mounted, are following up the channel of the +Sacramento, to discover where this gold, found in its banks, comes +from; and imagine that near the river's fount they will find the great +yellow mass itself. But they might as well hunt the fleeting rainbow. +The gold was thrown up from the bed of the ocean with the rocks and +sands in which it is found; and still bears, where it has escaped the +action of the element, vivid traces of volcanic fire. It often encases +a crystal of quartz, in which the pebble lies as if it had slumbered +there from eternity; its beautiful repose sets human artifice at +defiance. How strange that this ore should have lain here, scattered +about in all directions, peeping everywhere out of the earth, and +sparkling in the sun, and been trod upon for ages by white men and +savages, and by the emissaries of every scientific association in the +world, and never till now have been discovered! What an ass man is, +with all his learning! He stupidly stumbles over hills of gold to reach +a rare pepper pod, or rifle a bird's nest! + +The whole country is now moving on the mines. Monterey, San Francisco, +Sonoma, San Jose, and Santa Cruz, are emptied of their male population. +A stranger coming here would suppose he had arrived among a race of +women, who, by some anomalous provision of nature, multiplied their +images without the presence of the other sex. But not a few of the +women have gone too, especially those who had got out of tea--for what +is women without her tea pot--a pythoness without her shaking +trypod--an angel that has lost his lyre. Every bowl, tray, warming-pan, +and piggin has gone to the mines. Everything in short, that has a scoop +in it that will hold sand and water. All the iron has been worked up +into crow-bars, pick-axes and spades. And all these roll back upon us +in the shape of gold. We have, therefore, plenty of gold, but little to +eat, and still less to wear. Our supplies must come from Oregon, Chili +and the United States. Our grain gold, in exchange for coin, sells for +nine and ten dollars the ounce, though it is well known to be worth at +the mint in Philadelphia eighteen dollars the ounce at least. Such is +the scarcity of coin here. + +We want a mint. Let Congress send us one at once over the Isthmus; else +this grain gold goes to Mazatlan, to Chili and Peru--where it is lost +to our national currency. Over a million of gold, at the lowest +computation, is taken from these mines every month---and this quantity +will be more than doubled when the emigration from they States, from +Oregon, the Sandwich Islands, and the Southern republics arrives. Send +us a mint! I could give you forty more illustrations of the extent and +productiveness of these mines, but no one will believe what I _have_ +said without my name, and perhaps but few with it. + + + +* * * * * + + +LETTER FROM CAPT. FOLSOM. + +The latest and most authentic intelligence from the Gold Regions of +California, is the most interesting and the best. The following letter +from Capt. Folsom, it will be seen, is of recent date; and on perusal +the reader will find it is pregnant with valuable facts: + + +SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, Oct. 8th, 1848. + +MY DEAR SIR:--The prices of labor here will create surprise in the +United States. Kannakas, or Sandwich Islanders, the worst of laborers, +are now employed constantly about town in storing and landing +merchandise at a dollar an hour each; and the most indifferent laborers +are hired by the week together at six or eight dollars per day. +Mechanics obtain, when employed by the day, eight or ten dollars per +day, and by the month about six. In a few days, as the sickly season is +over, I presume wages will advance, for most of the laboring classes +are returning to the mines. + +I have just completed the repairs upon a government lighter, +preparatory to discharging the cargo of the transport ship Huntress. I +attempted to hire a lighter to effect this, but could not get one +capable of containing one hundred and twenty barrels manned by two men, +short of fifty dollars per day. I have had the master of the government +lighter employed for several days in getting a crew for her; and when +he offers $80 per month for sailors, he is laughed at, and told that a +man can get that amount at the mines in one day. + +A few days since, I sent a wagon-master to employ some men to handle +stores in the public warehouse. After searching about the town in vain, +for several hours, he saw a man on the dock whom he felt sure of +getting, for the individual in question did not seem to be blessed with +a redundancy of this world's gear. He was wearing a slouched hat +without a crown, a dilapidated buckskin hunting shirt or frock, a very +uncleanly red woolen shirt, with pantaloons hanging in tatters, and his +feet had an apology for a covering in one old shoe, and one buckskin +moccasin, sadly the worse for wear and age. When asked if he wanted +employment, he replied in the affirmative; and as the young man was +proceeding to tell him what he wished to have him do, he was +interrupted with "It is not that kind of work, sir, that I want; (at +the same time taking a bag containing about _two quarts_ of gold dust +from his buckskin shirt,) I want to work in the mines, sir. Look here, +stranger, do you see this? This bag contains gold dust; and do you +suppose I am to make a d----d nigger of myself, handling boxes and +barrels for _eight or ten dollars per day?_ I should think not, +stranger!" And our friend left in a most contemptuous manner. Nor was +this a solitary instance of like conduct; they occur daily and hourly +in this village. + +All sorts of labor is got at enormous rates of compensation. Common +clerks and salesmen in the stores about town often receive as high as +$2500 and their board. The clerk now in my office is a young boy, who, +until a few weeks since, was a _private of volunteers_, and I am now +paying him $1500 per annum. This will not appear high, when I tell you +that I have just seen upon his table a wash bill, made out and paid, at +the rate of eight dollars per dozen; and that almost every thing else +is at corresponding prices. The principal waiter in the hotel where I +board is paid $1,700 per year, and several others from $1,200 to +$1,500. I fortunately have an Indian boy, or I should be forced to +clean my own boots, for I could not employ a good body servant for the +full amount of my salary as a government officer. It will be impossible +for any army officer to live here upon his pay without becoming rapidly +impoverished, for his time is not his own to enter upon business; and +although he might have money, his opportunities for making it useful to +him are few, unless he invests it in real estate. Unless something is +done, I am unable to see how it is possible for officers, living upon +the salaries granted by law to military men, to support themselves in +this country. + +I believe every army officer in California, with one or two exceptions, +would have resigned last summer, could they have done it and been free +at once to commence for themselves. But the war was not then +terminated, and no one could hope to communicate with Washington +correspondents, to get an answer in less than six, and perhaps ten +months. For some time last summer, (August and July,) the officers at +Monterey were entirely without servants; and the Governor (Col. Mason,) +actually took his turn in cooking for his mess. Unless some prompt +action is taken to pay both officers and men serving in this country, +in proportion to the unavoidable expenses to be incurred, the former +will resign and the latter will desert, and it will be impossible to +maintain a military force in California. + +I look upon California as perhaps the richest mineral country on the +globe. I have written you at great length as to the gold, and since the +date of that letter other and richer mines have been discovered. Rich +silver mines are known to exist in various parts of the country, but +they are not worked. Quicksilver mines are found at innumerable places, +and many of them afford the richest ores. The new Almadin mine at Santa +Clara gives the richest ore of which we have any accounts. With very +imperfect machinery, it yields upward of fifty per cent, and the +proprietors are now working it, and are preparing to quadruple their +force. Iron, copper, lead, tin, sulphur, zinc, platinum, cobalt, &c. +are said to be found in abundance, and most of them are known to exist +in various sections of the country. + +As an agricultural territory, its great disadvantage is a want of rain; +but this is by no means so great as has been represented. I believe +California can be made to produce as fine wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, +barley, vegetables, and fruits, especially grapes, as any portion of +the world. Nothing that has been fairly tried has failed, and nearly +every thing has produced wonderfully. The portions of the soil which +are capable of cultivation are inconsiderable in comparison with the +whole area of the country; but the soil about this bay, and in many of +the large valleys, is equal to the wants of a dense population. It is +proverbially healthy, and with the exception of portions of the +Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys, no country ever had, at the same +period of its settlement, a more salubrious climate. + +I think California affords means for the investment of capital such as +few other countries offer. Any person who could come in here now with +ready cash would be certain of doubling his money in a few months. +Large fortunes will be made here within the ensuing year, and I am told +that there are some hundreds of persons who have already made on an +average $25,000 each. Whole cargoes of goods are sold at an average of +about 150 per cent. clear profit, and ready pay in gold dust. + +When I came to this place I expended a few hundred dollars in waste +lots, covered with bushes and sand hills. The chapter of events which +has followed is likely to make this property quite valuable, if I am +able to look after it. What cost me less than $800, I suppose I could +now sell for $8,000 or perhaps $10,000. It is this consideration which +makes me willing to return to a country where my salary is insufficient +for my support. If Congress does not increase the pay of officers +serving here, I should still be willing to return, in the expectation +that my private interests would justify a measure which would otherwise +be certain to impoverish me. + +Something should be done here at once for the establishment of peace +and good order in the country. All law, both civil and military, is at +an end. Among the mines, and indeed in most parts of the country out of +the villages, no authority but that of the strongest exists, and +outrages of the most disgraceful nature are constantly occurring, and +the offenders go unpunished. There are now about twenty-five vessels in +this port, and I believe there is not one of them that has a crew to go +to sea. Frequently the sailors arm themselves, take the ship's boats, +and leave in the most open manner, defying both their officers and the +civil magistrates. These things are disgraceful to the country and the +flag, and while vessels have to pay port charges, duties, &c., their +owners ought to be protected. The tariff law of 1846 is now in force in +California. + +We have not had an American man-of-war in this port for more than a +year, and all the naval resources of the United States on this coast +are concentrated at Monterey, which is not a harbor but an open +roadstead, and which has not one-tenth of the business on its waters +which is done in this bay. During the whole year that I was collector +of this port, there was not a gun mounted for commanding the entrance +of the port, and there was not a United States man-of-war in the +harbor. We were exacting a "military contribution," and we possessed +not the slightest means of preventing vessels from leaving in defiance +of our authority. + +In a few months the line of ocean mail steamers will be in operation +from Panama to Oregon, and this port is to be a depot for coal, and of +course a stopping point in passing both ways. The starting of the line +of steamers on this coast is likely to be an undertaking of very great +difficulty, and at this time, such is its importance, with reference to +both Oregon and California, that its failure might be looked upon as a +national calamity. Still, unless some kind of protection is extended to +the shipping of this port, it is not at all improbable that it may fail +for want of the necessary laborers, as soon as the boats reach this +harbor. Indeed, it is altogether probable, unless some competent +authority is found here at the time to preserve order, that the crew +will quit in a body as soon as the first vessel arrives. + +Every possible assistance should be extended to insure the success of +this company, and every reasonable latitude should be granted in the +execution of their contract. It is now uncertain if the steamers can +enter Columbia river at all times in the winter; and they may find it +necessary to run up to Paget's Sound. This would be a small +inconvenience in comparison to the loss of one of these vessels upon +the very dangerous bar at the mouth of the Columbia--an event not at +all improbable, if they enter that river in the winter. + + + +* * * * * + + +NEWSPAPER CORRESPONDENCE. + +The following letters were communicated to the "Californian" newspaper, +and exhibit very graphically the state of excitement and the actual +state of things in the Gold Regions during last summer. + + +NEW HELVETIA, June 30, 1848. + +I have just returned from Fort Sacramento, from the gold region, from +whence I write this; and in compliance with my promise, on leaving the +sea coast, I send you such items as I have gathered. + +Our trip after leaving your city, by way of Pueblo, San Jose, and the +San Joaquin river, we found very agreeable. Passing over a lovely +country, with its valleys and hills covered with the richest verdure, +intertwined with flowers of every hue. The country from the San Joaquin +river to this place, is rich beyond comparison, and will admit of a +dense population. + +We found the fort a miniature Manchester, a young Lowell. The +blacksmith's hammer, the tinner, the carpenter, and the weaver's +shuttle, plying by the ingenuity of Indians, at which place there are +several hundred in the employ of Capt. J.A. Sutter. I was much pleased +with a walk in a large and beautiful garden attached to the fort. It +contains about eight or ten acres, laid out with great taste, under the +supervision of a young Swiss. Among the fruit trees I noticed the +almond, fig, olive, pear, apple, and peach. The grape vines are in the +highest state of cultivation, and for vegetables, I would refer you to +a seedman's catalogue. + +About three miles from the fort, on the east bank of the Sacramento, +the town of Suttersville is laid out. The location is one of the best +in the country, situated in the largest and most fertile district in +California, and being the depot for the extensive, gold, silver, +platina, quicksilver, and iron mines. A hotel is now building for the +accomodation of the travelling public, who are now obliged to impose on +the kind hospitalities of Capt. Sutter. A party of men who have been +exploring a route to cross the Sierra Nevada mountains, have just +returned, and report that they have found a good wagon road on the +declivity ridge between the American fork and the McCossamy rivers, the +distance being much less than by the old route. The road will pass +through the gold district, and enter the valley near the American fork. + +A ferry is to be established at Suttersville, on the Sacramento, and +the road across the _tularie_ improved soon, which will shorten the +distance from this place to Sonoma and your city, about 60 miles. + +After leaving the fort we passed up on the south bank of the American +fork, about twelve miles. This is a beautiful river, about three +fathoms deep the water being very cold and clear; and after leaving the +river we passed through a country rolling and timbered with oak. We +soon commenced ascending the hills at the base of the Sierra Nevada, +which are thickly set with oak and pine timber, and soon arrived at a +small rivulet. One of our party dipped up a cupful of sand from the bed +of the creek, washed it, and found five pieces of gold. This was our +first attempt at gold digging. About dark we arrived at the saw-mill of +Captain Sutter, having ridden over gold, silver, platina and iron +mines, some twenty or thirty miles. The past three days I have spent in +exploring the mountains in this district, and conversing with many men +who have been at work here for some weeks past. Should I attempt to +relate to you all that I have seen, and have been told, concerning the +extent and productions of the mines, I am fearful your readers would +think me exaggerating too much, therefore I will keep within bounds. I +could fill your columns with the most astonishing tales concerning the +mines here, far excelling the Arabian Nights, and all true to the +letter. + +As near as I can ascertain, there are now about 2,000 persons engaged, +and the roads leading to the mines are thronged with people and wagons. +From one to nine ounces of pure virgin gold per day is gathered by +every man who performs the requisite labor. The mountains have been +explored for about forty miles, and gold has been found in great +abundance in almost every part of them. A gentleman informed me that he +had spent some time in exploring the country, and had dug fifty-two +holes with his butcher's knife in different places, and found gold in +every one. + +Several extensive silver mines have been discovered, but very little +attention is paid to them now. Immense beds of iron ore, of superior +quality, yielding 85 to 90 per cent., have also been found near the +American Fork. + +A grist mill is to be attached to the saw mill, for the purpose of +convenience of families and others settling at the mines. The water +power of the American Fork is equal to any upon this continent, and in +a few years large iron founderies, rolling, splitting and nail mills +will be erected. + +The granite of the mountains is superior to the celebrated Quincy. A +quarry of beautiful marble has been discovered near the McCossanny +river, specimens of which you will see in a few years in the front of +the Custom House, Merchants' Exchange, City Hall, and other edifices in +your flourishing city. + +P. S.-"The cry is still, they come." Two men have just arrived for +provisions from the Abjuba river, who state that they have worked five +days, and gathered $950 in gold, the largest piece weighing nearly one +ounce. They report the quantity on that river to be immense, and in +much larger pieces than that taken in other parts. + + +SONOMA. Aug. 5, 1848. + +The mining fever is raging here, as well as elsewhere. Not a mechanic +or laboring man can be obtained in town, and most of our male citizens +have "gone up" to the Sierra Nevada, and are now enjoying "golden +moments." Spades, shovels, pick-axes, hoes, bottles, vials, +snuff-boxes, brass tubes, earthern jars, and even barrels, have been +put in requisition, and have also abruptly left town. + +I have heard from one of our citizens who has been at the Gold Placer a +few weeks, and he had collected $1,500 worth of the "root of evil," and +was still averaging $100 per day. Another gent, wife and boy collected +$500 worth in one day. Another still, who shut up his hotel here some +five or six weeks since, has returned with $2,200 in pure virgin gold, +collected by his own exertions, with no other aid than a spade, pick +and Indian basket. + +Three new and valuable lead mines have recently been discovered in this +vicinity, and one of our citizens, Mr. John Bowles, of Galena, Ill.--a +gent, who has been reported by the Boston press as having been murdered +by the Indians, on the Southern route to Oregon, from the +States--informed me that the ore would yield 90 per cent., and that it +was his intention to erect, as soon as practicable, six large smelting +furnaces. + +The Colonnade Theatre, at this place, has closed for the season; it was +well attended, however, from the time the Thespians made their debut +till they made their exit. The "Golden Farmer," the "Omnibus," and a +Russian comedy called "Feodora,' (translated from the German of +Kotzebue, by Mr. F. Linz, of Sonoma,) were their last attractions. + +The military company under command of Capt. J. E. Brackett, are today +exchanging posts with Company H., under command of Captain Frisbie, +both of the New York Volunteers. Company C. has been stationed with us +more than a year, and much praise is due its members, not only for the +military and soldier-like manner in which they have acquitted +themselves as a corps, but for their gentlemanly and orderly deportment +individually and collectively. We regret to part with them, and cannot +let them go without expressing a hope that when peace shall have been +declared, their regiment disbanded, and their country no longer needs +their services, they may have fallen sufficiently in love with our +healthy climate and our beautiful valley to come back and settle. + + + +* * * * * + + +GOLD. + +The New York _Evening Post_ has an article upon this subject, from +which we take the following: + +The places where it is found are much more numerous than we might at +first suppose. The mines of America, however, surpass those of all +other countries. Though of comparative newness, they have furnished +three times and a half more gold and twelve times more silver than +those of the old world. Silver and gold were, before the discovery of +America, supposed to bear to each other the relation of 55 to 1. In +Europe the proportion is now about 15 to 1. + +The gold of Mexico is chiefly found in argentiferous veins, as at +Guanaxuato, where it is obtained one ounce in 360. The only auriferous +veins, worked as such, are at Oaxaca. The rivers in Caraccas flow over +auriferous sands. Peru is not reported rich in gold at present. The +gold of New Grenada is found in alluvial soil, and is washed out in the +shape of spangles and grains. The gold of Chili, is found under similar +circumstances. Brazil formerly brought the most gold to market, not +even excepting Russia, which now, however, surpasses her. All the +rivers running from the Brazilian mountains have gold, and the annual +product of fine metal is now rated at $5,000,000. + +There are no very late tables of the products of the American mines. We +have ascertained, by accident purely, how the estimate is made at +present. + +From 1790 to 1830, forty years, the product of Mexico was:-- + +Gold £6,436,453 Silver 139,818,032 + +Chili-- + +Gold £2,768,488 Silver 1,822,924 + +Buenos Ayres-- + +Gold £4,024,895 Silver 27,182,673 + + +Add to this Russia-- + +Gold £2,703,743 Silver 1,502,981 + + +And we have from four countries alone 1880 millions of pounds sterling, +or forty-seven millions per annum. + +If we add the products of Europe and Asiatic Russia, of the East Indies +and Africa, which some estimate at thirty-six tons of gold per annum, +we perceive that a vast amount of the precious metal is unearthed and +somewhere in use. The relative value of gold has certainly changed very +much within a few hundred years, and it probably will change still +more. But we do not think it is likely to depreciate one-half in our +time, for many reasons, though some persons imagine it will. + +The true secret of all this present excitement is this: the Anglo Saxon +race, for the first time in their history, own and occupy gold mines of +very great value. Hitherto Africans, Asiatic or Indians, have held +them, and they have never shown that ardor combined with perseverance +which belongs to us. England never had any mines of gold, or she would +have worked them as diligently as she has those of coal. The Americans +have now a golden chance, and they are the first of their blood that +have ever had it. They will be sure to turn the opportunity to account. + +At our leisure we will refer to some other interesting facts, in +relation to the value of gold at different periods. We conclude with +recalling one singular circumstance to the recollection of our readers, +that when the Romans captured Jerusalem, they obtained so much gold, +that the price of it in Syria fell one half. + + + +* * * * * + + +LIEUTENANT L. LOESER, of the Third Artillery, a graduate of West Point, +furnishes the following information respecting the gold region: + +"We have been favored by Lieutenant Loeser, bearer of dispatches from +Governor Mason to the government at Washington (who also brought on +about $20,000 of gold dust, which he deposited at Washington,) with a +general description of the gold region, the climate, &c., of +California. He says the gold region is very large, and there is +sufficient ore to profitably employ one hundred thousand persons for +generations to come. So far as discovered, the gold is found in an +extent of country four hundred miles long, by one hundred and fifty +wide, and no particular portion seems more productive than another. In +the river and on the flatlands the gold dust is found; but among the +rocks and in the highlands it is found in lumps, from the size of a +man's hand to the size of an ordinary duck-shot, all of which is solid, +and presents the appearance of having been thrown up by a volcanic +eruption. So plenty is the gold, that little care is paid to the +washing of it by those engaged when he left; the consequence of which +is great quantities are thrown away. In the highlands he was walking +with a man who found a piece weighing about thirty-five pennyweights, +worth $29, but which he purchased for $4. The piece is solid, and has +the form of a perfect acorn on the top of it. He has had it, just as it +was found, converted into a breastpin. A man, by ordinary labor, may +procure from $50 to $200 per day. With regard to the climate, he says, +it is salubrious, at no time being so cold as to require more than a +light blanket to sleep under. When he left, the people were sleeping +under the trees, without the fear of sickness from exposure. The rainy +season begins about the first of November, and continues until March, +though there are five clear days for every rainy one. Provisions are +generally high, at least such as cannot be obtained in the country. +Flour is worth $80 per barrel, though a fine bullock may be obtained +for $3. Clothing is very high, and the demand is very great. The +Indians, who have heretofore used no clothing whatever, now endeavor to +imitate the whites, and will give any price for garments. The report +relative to the Mormons requiring 30 per cent. of all the gold found, +he says, is a mistake. When the gold was first discovered, one of the +leaders of that people demanded that amount from all the Mormons, but +they remonstrated, and refused to pay it, which remonstrance caused not +the slightest difficulty among the people. He was in San Francisco when +the gold was first discovered, about forty miles from that place. The +news was received one day, and the following morning, out of the whole +company to which he was attached, every one deserted except two +sergeants, and took with them all the horses belonging to the officers. +In a few days the city was almost entirely deserted, and Col. Mason, +the governor of the territory, was, and has ever since been, obliged to +prepare and cook his own food. A servant cannot be had at any price; +and the soldiers have not sufficient pay for a month to subsist on for +a week. The salary of the governor is not sufficient to support him; +and, like all others in the more wealthy circles of life, he is obliged +to be his own servant. He speaks of the country as offering the +greatest inducements to young men of enterprise, and thinks there is +ample room and gold for hundreds of thousands. + + + +* * * * * + + +ADVICE TO THOSE GOING TO CALIFORNIA BY THE CAPES. + +The following article, condensed from correspondence in a daily paper +of New York City, will be found to contain many valuable hints to the +California bound traveler. It came to hand too late to appear in its +proper place, where the four different routes are spoken of: + +The first grand desideratum is, to secure comfort on the passage, by +the most efficient and economical means, thereby, as far as possible +insuring the arrival of the company at their destination in good health +and condition. + +To insure the most perfect health and comfort attainable on so long a +voyage, a vessel should not be fitted up as our European passenger +ships are, with bunks for the passengers to sleep in, but the berth +deck should be free from bulkheads fore and aft. This arrangement would +give plenty of room for the company to swing their hammocks or cots, +which could be stowed on deck in pleasant weather, leaving the berth +deck free from encumbrance, for the company to amuse themselves with +conversation or exercise. Such an arrangement would secure a more +perfect ventilation (a very important consideration) than bunks could +possibly admit of, as bunks unavoidably harbor filth and vermin, +besides leaving very little room for the exercise so absolutely +necessary in preventing the diseases incident to a protracted voyage. +Before the company proceeds on the voyage, each member should subscribe +to a code of regulations, and officers be appointed to carry them into +effect. This arrangement should be made in order to obviate the +vexation and annoyance which inevitably occur wherever a large number +of persons are promiscuously on shipboard. A simple system, such as +regularity of meals and cleansing the interior of the ship, similar to +the Navy regulations in that particular, are indispensible and will +contribute much to the pleasure, comfort, health, and good fellowship +of all on board. + +The company should be composed of _practical persons_--Agriculturists, +Mechanics, and Artisans, as _nearly equal in pecuniary condition and +intelligence_ as circumstances will admit, and it would be very +important for the most useful and necessary arts to be well +represented. By such an organization, the company would be very +efficient; for by taking on board cloth, leather, iron, lumber, brick, +&c. their clothing, shoes, iron and wood work of a brick house might be +made on board. And would employ the various mechanics connected with +those arts, would tend to relieve the monotony of the ocean, and +PRACTICALLY _illustrate the benefits and many advantages_ of a true +_association_ of interests. + +The agricultural implements of the most approved method, together with +the choicest varieties of young fruit trees and garden seeds, should be +provided. Instead of the usual ballast for the vessel, brick and lime, +if necessary, could be taken for that purpose, which might be used by +the company or disposed of to great advantage at San Francisco. The +vessel might be profitably employed in transporting passengers to and +from the Isthmus, with great profit to the company, of which the +officers and ship's company should be members. A _skillful surgeon_ +should belong to the association. Every member of the company should +contribute all the useful books he could, as a library on ship-board +would be a constant source of amusement and instruction. + +Persons about embarking on so long a voyage should be very particular +and have their provisions carefully put up. The United States service +rations will be found to be very economical. The following is the +weekly allowance per man:-- + +Sunday 14 oz. bread, 11/4 lb. beef, 1/2 lb. flour. Monday 14 oz. +bread, 1 lb. pork, 1/2 pint beans. Tuesday 14 oz. bread, 2 oz. +cheese, 1 lb. beef. Wednesday 14 oz. bread, 1 lb. pork, 1/2 pint of +rice. Thursday 14 oz. bread, 11/4 lbs. beef, 1/2 lb. flour. Friday +14 oz. bread, 4 oz. cheese, 2 oz. butter, 1/2 pint rice, 1/2 pint +molasses, 1/2 pint vinegar. Saturday 14 oz, bread, 1 lb. pork, 1/2 +pint beans, 1/2 lb. raisins. + +The spirit ration is omitted. + +This is sufficient for the hardest-working seaman. The flour should be +kiln dried; any baker can do it. It is only necessary to evaporate all +the moisture, and pack it in air-tight casks. Pine-apple cheese is the +best and should be put up in water-tight boxes, saturated in alcohol. +Sour crout, pickles, &c. are excellent anti-scorbutics, and should be +eaten freely. Be careful and lay in a good store of "salt water soap." + +N. B. The flour should be packed in casks that have contained distilled +spirits. + +A vessel bound for California by the way of Cape Horn by touching at +Rio Janeiro, Brazil and Callao, in Peru, would divide the voyage into +three periods, increasing its interest without much addition to its +length of time. Rio Janeiro has one of the most magnificent harbors on +the globe, far surpassing in natural grandeur the bay of Naples. The +approach to the stupendous mountain coast is inexpressibly grand. The +entrance to the capacious roadstead is through a narrow strait of great +depth of water unobstructed by rock or shoal, flanked on the North by +the huge fortress of Santa Cruz; on the South the "Sugar Loaf" rock +proudly rears its lofty cone near one thousand feet above the surface +of the deep. The entire bay is nearly surrounded by numerous mountain +peaks of every conceivable form. + +Leaving Rio we prepare to encounter the terrors of the "Horn," having +overcome its Westerly gales and "head-beat seas" debouching on the vast +Pacific, we career onward before the "trades" to Callao, the port of +Lima and capital of the Peruvian Republic. Here the refreshments +peculiar to the Tropics are plenty and of excellent quality. We ride at +anchor over the ancient City of Callao, (destroyed and sunk by an +earthquake 1746,) in sight of the lofty Andes, the mighty cones of +Pichnia and Cotopaxi blazing their volcanic fires far above the region +of eternal snow, their ice-frosted summits glittering in the sun, +forming a dazzling contrast with the clear deep azure of the tropical +skies. + +Waving adieu to Callao, our canvas spread to woo the "trades," we sweep +onward to Alta-California, and entering the "Golden Gate" of the +Cornucopia of the Pacific, drop our anchor in the bay of San Francisco. + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Exploring Expedition to the Rocky +Mountains, Oregon and California, by Brevet Col. J.C. 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