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+Project Gutenberg EBook, Sketches From Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+From "The Doliver Romance and Other Pieces: Tales and Sketches"
+#73 in our series by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
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+Title: Sketches From Memory
+      (From: "The Doliver Romance and Other Pieces: Tales and Sketches")
+
+Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+Release Date: Nov, 2005  [EBook #9246]
+[This file was first posted on September 25, 2003]
+[Last updated on February 6, 2007]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+
+
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+                 THE DOLIVER ROMANCE AND OTHER PIECES
+
+                         TALES AND SKETCHES
+
+                       By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+
+                        SKETCHES FROM MEMORY
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS:
+     I.   The Inland Port.
+     II.  Rochester.
+     III. A Night Scene.
+
+
+
+I. THE INLAND PORT.
+
+It was a bright forenoon, when I set foot on the beach at Burlington,
+and took leave of the two boatmen in whose little skiff I had voyaged
+since daylight from Peru.  Not that we had come that morning from South
+America, but only from the New York shore of Lake Champlain.  The
+highlands of the coast behind us stretched north and south, in a double
+range of bold, blue peaks, gazing over each other's shoulders at the
+Green Mountains of Vermont.
+
+The latter are far the loftiest, and, from the opposite side of the
+lake, had displayed a more striking outline.  We were now almost at
+their feet, and could see only a sandy beach sweeping beneath a woody
+bank, around the semicircular Bay of Burlington.
+
+The painted lighthouse on a small green island, the wharves and
+warehouses, with sloops and schooners moored alongside, or at anchor,
+or spreading their canvas to the wind, and boats rowing from point to
+point, reminded me of some fishing-town on the sea-coast.
+
+But I had no need of tasting the water to convince myself that Lake
+Champlain was not all arm of the sea; its quality was evident, both by
+its silvery surface, when unruffled, and a faint but unpleasant and
+sickly smell, forever steaming up in the sunshine.  One breeze of the
+Atlantic with its briny fragrance would be worth more to these inland
+people than all the perfumes of Arabia.  On closer inspection the
+vessels at the wharves looked hardly seaworthy,--there being a great
+lack of tar about the seams and rigging, and perhaps other deficiencies,
+quite as much to the purpose.
+
+I observed not a single sailor in the port.  There were men, indeed, in
+blue jackets and trousers, but not of the true nautical fashion, such as
+dangle before slopshops; others wore tight pantaloons and coats
+preponderously long-tailed,--cutting very queer figures at the masthead;
+and, in short, these fresh-water fellows had about the same analogy to
+the real "old salt" with his tarpaulin, pea-jacket, and sailor-cloth
+trousers, as a lake fish to a Newfoundland cod.
+
+Nothing struck me more in Burlington, than the great number of Irish
+emigrants.  They have filled the British Provinces to the brim, and
+still continue to ascend the St. Lawrence in infinite tribes overflowing
+by every outlet into the States.  At Burlington, they swarm in huts and
+mean dwellings near the lake, lounge about the wharves, and elbow the
+native citizens entirely out of competition in their own line.  Every
+species of mere bodily labor is the prerogative of these Irish.  Such is
+their multitude in comparison with any possible demand for their
+services, that it is difficult to conceive how a third part of them
+should earn even a daily glass of whiskey, which is doubtless their
+first necessary of life,--daily bread being only the second.
+
+Some were angling in the lake, but had caught only a few perch, which
+little fishes, without a miracle, would be nothing among so many.  A
+miracle there certainly must have been, and a daily one, for the
+subsistence of these wandering hordes.  The men exhibit a lazy strength
+and careless merriment, as if they had fed well hitherto, and meant to
+feed better hereafter; the women strode about, uncovered in the open
+air, with far plumper waists and brawnier limbs as well as bolder faces,
+than our shy and slender females; and their progeny, which was
+innumerable, had the reddest and the roundest cheeks of any children in
+America.
+
+While we stood at the wharf, the bell of a steamboat gave two
+preliminary peals, and she dashed away for Plattsburgh, leaving a trail
+of smoky breath behind, and breaking the glassy surface of the lake
+before her.  Our next movement brought us into a handsome and busy
+square, the sides of which were filled up with white houses, brick
+stores, a church, a court-house, and a bank.  Some of these edifices had
+roofs of tin, in the fashion of Montreal, and glittered in the sun with
+cheerful splendor, imparting a lively effect to the whole square.  One
+brick building, designated in large letters as the custom-house,
+reminded us that this inland village is a port of entry, largely
+concerned in foreign trade and holding daily intercourse with the
+British empire.  In this border country the Canadian bank-notes
+circulate as freely as our own, and British and American coin are
+jumbled into the same pocket, the effigies of the King of England being
+made to kiss those of the Goddess of Liberty.
+
+Perhaps there was an emblem in the involuntary contact.  There was a
+pleasant mixture of people in the square of Burlington, such as cannot
+be seen elsewhere, at one view; merchants from Montreal, British
+officers from the frontier garrisons, French Canadians, wandering Irish,
+Scotchmen of a better class, gentlemen of the South on a pleasure tour,
+country squires on business; and a great throng of Green Mountain boys,
+with their horse-wagons and ox-teams, true Yankees in aspect, and
+looking more superlatively so, by contrast with such a variety of
+foreigners.
+
+
+
+II. ROCHESTER
+
+The gray but transparent evening rather shaded than obscured the scene,
+leaving its stronger features visible, and even improved by the medium
+through which I beheld them.  The volume of water is not very great, nor
+the roar deep enough to be termed grand, though such praise might have
+been appropriate before the good people of Rochester had abstracted a
+part of the unprofitable sublimity of the cascade. The Genesee has
+contributed so bountifully to their canals and mill-dams, that it
+approaches the precipice with diminished pomp, and rushes over it in
+foamy streams of various width, leaving a broad face of the rock
+insulated and unwashed, between the two main branches of the falling
+river.  Still it was an impressive sight, to one who had not seen
+Niagara.  I confess, however, that my chief interest arose from a
+legend, connected with these falls, which will become poetical in the
+lapse of years, and was already so to me as I pictured the catastrophe
+out of dusk and solitude.  It was from a platform, raised over the naked
+island of the cliff, in the middle of the cataract that Sam Patch took
+his last leap, and alighted in the other world.  Strange as it may
+appear,--that any uncertainty should rest upon his fate which was
+consummated in the sight of thousands,--many will tell you that the
+illustrious Patch concealed himself in a cave under the falls, and has
+continued to enjoy posthumous renown, without foregoing the comforts of
+this present life.  But the poor fellow prized the shout of the
+multitude too much not to have claimed it at the instant, had he
+survived.  He will not be seen again, unless his ghost, in such a
+twilight as when I was there, should emerge from the foam, and vanish
+among the shadows that fall from cliff to cliff.
+
+How stern a moral may be drawn from the story of poor Sam Patch!  Why do
+we call him a madman or a fool, when he has left his memory around the
+falls of the Genesee, more permanently than if the letters of his name
+had been hewn into the forehead of the precipice?
+
+Was the leaper of cataracts more mad or foolish than other men who throw
+away life, or misspend it in pursuit of empty fame, and seldom so
+triumphantly as he?  That which he won is as invaluable as any except
+the unsought glory, spreading like the rich perfume of richer fruit from
+various and useful deeds.
+
+Thus musing, wise in theory, but practically as great a fool as Sam, I
+lifted my eyes and beheld the spires, warehouses, and dwellings of
+Rochester, half a mile distant on both sides of the river, indistinctly
+cheerful, with the twinkling of many lights amid the fall of the evening.
+
+The town had sprung up like a mushroom, but no presage of decay could be
+drawn from its hasty growth.  Its edifices are of dusky brick, and of
+stone that will not be grayer in a hundred years than now; its churches
+are Gothic; it is impossible to look at its worn pavements and conceive
+how lately the forest leaves have been swept away.  The most ancient
+town in Massachusetts appears quite like an affair of yesterday,
+compared with Rochester.  Its attributes of youth are the activity and
+eager life with which it is redundant.  The whole street, sidewalks and
+centre, was crowded with pedestrians, horsemen, stage-coaches, gigs,
+light wagons, and heavy ox-teams, all hurrying, trotting, rattling, and
+rumbling, in a throng that passed continually, but never passed away.
+Here, a country wife was selecting a churn from several gayly painted
+ones on the sunny sidewalk; there, a farmer was bartering his produce;
+and, in two or three places, a crowd of people were showering bids on a
+vociferous auctioneer.  I saw a great wagon and an ox-chain knocked off
+to a very pretty woman.  Numerous were the lottery offices,--those true
+temples of Mammon,--where red and yellow bills offered splendid fortunes
+to the world at large, and banners of painted cloth gave notice that the
+"lottery draws next Wednesday."  At the ringing of a bell, judges,
+jurymen, lawyers, and clients, elbowed each other to the court-house, to
+busy themselves with cases that would doubtless illustrate the state of
+society, had I the means of reporting them.  The number of public houses
+benefited the flow of temporary population; some were farmer's taverns,
+--cheap, homely, and comfortable; others were magnificent hotels, with
+negro waiters, gentlemanly landlords in black broad-cloth, and foppish
+bar-keepers in Broadway coats, with chased gold watches in their
+waistcoat-pockets.  I caught one of these fellows quizzing me through an
+eye-glass.  The porters were lumbering up the steps with baggage from
+the packet boats, while waiters plied the brush on dusty travellers,
+who, meanwhile, glanced over the innumerable advertisements in the daily
+papers.
+
+In short, everybody seemed to be there, and all had something to do, and
+were doing it with all their might, except a party of drunken recruits
+for the Western military posts, principally Irish and Scotch, though
+they wore Uncle Sam's gray jacket and trousers.  I noticed one other
+idle man.  He carried a rifle on his shoulder and a powder-horn across
+his breast, and appeared to stare about him with confused wonder, as if,
+while he was listening to the wind among the forest boughs, the hum and
+bustle of an instantaneous city had surrounded him.
+
+
+
+III.
+
+A NIGHT SCENE
+
+The steamboat in which I was passenger for Detroit had put into the
+mouth of a small river, where the greater part of the night would be
+spent in repairing some damages of the machinery.
+
+As the evening was warm, though cloudy and very dark, I stood on deck,
+watching a scene that would not have attracted a second glance in the
+daytime, but became picturesque by the magic of strong light and deep
+shade.
+
+Some wild Irishmen were replenishing our stock of wood, and had kindled
+a great fire on the bank to illuminate their labors.  It was composed of
+large logs and dry brushwood, heaped together with careless profusion,
+blazing fiercely, spouting showers of sparks into the darkness, and
+gleaming wide over Lake Erie,--a beacon for perplexed voyagers leagues
+from land.
+
+All around and above the furnace, there was total obscurity.  No trees
+or other objects caught and reflected any portion of the brightness,
+which thus wasted itself in the immense void of night, as if it quivered
+from the expiring embers of the world, after the final conflagration.
+But the Irishmen were continually emerging from the dense gloom, passing
+through the lurid glow, and vanishing into the gloom on the other side.
+Sometimes a whole figure would be made visible, by the shirtsleeves and
+light-colored dress; others were but half seen, like imperfect
+creatures; many flitted, shadow-like, along the skirts of darkness,
+tempting fancy to a vain pursuit; and often, a face alone was reddened
+by the fire, and stared strangely distinct, with no traces of a body.
+In short these wild Irish, distorted and exaggerated by the blaze, now
+lost in deep shadow, now bursting into sudden splendor, and now
+struggling between light and darkness, formed a picture which might have
+been transferred, almost unaltered, to a tale of the supernatural.  As
+they all carried lanterns of wood, and often flung sticks upon the fire,
+the least imaginative spectator would at once compare them to devils
+condemned to keep alive the flames of their own torments.
+
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, SKETCHES FROM MEMORY***
+By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
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+express permission.]
+
+*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END*