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diff --git a/9246-0.txt b/9246-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8aca9a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/9246-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,598 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches from Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: Sketches from Memory + +Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Release Date: September 25, 2003 [eBook #9246] +[Most recently updated: November 9, 2022] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +Produced by: David Widger and Al Haines + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + + + + +Sketches from Memory + +by Nathaniel Hawthorne + + + + +I. THE INLAND PORT. + +It was a bright forenoon, when I set foot on the beach at Burlington, +and took leave of the two boatmen in whose little skiff I had voyaged +since daylight from Peru. Not that we had come that morning from South +America, but only from the New York shore of Lake Champlain. The +highlands of the coast behind us stretched north and south, in a double +range of bold, blue peaks, gazing over each other’s shoulders at the +Green Mountains of Vermont. + +The latter are far the loftiest, and, from the opposite side of the +lake, had displayed a more striking outline. We were now almost at +their feet, and could see only a sandy beach sweeping beneath a woody +bank, around the semicircular Bay of Burlington. + +The painted lighthouse on a small green island, the wharves and +warehouses, with sloops and schooners moored alongside, or at anchor, +or spreading their canvas to the wind, and boats rowing from point to +point, reminded me of some fishing-town on the sea-coast. + +But I had no need of tasting the water to convince myself that Lake +Champlain was not all arm of the sea; its quality was evident, both by +its silvery surface, when unruffled, and a faint but unpleasant and +sickly smell, forever steaming up in the sunshine. One breeze of the +Atlantic with its briny fragrance would be worth more to these inland +people than all the perfumes of Arabia. On closer inspection the +vessels at the wharves looked hardly seaworthy,—there being a great +lack of tar about the seams and rigging, and perhaps other +deficiencies, quite as much to the purpose. + +I observed not a single sailor in the port. There were men, indeed, in +blue jackets and trousers, but not of the true nautical fashion, such +as dangle before slopshops; others wore tight pantaloons and coats +preponderously long-tailed,—cutting very queer figures at the masthead; +and, in short, these fresh-water fellows had about the same analogy to +the real “old salt” with his tarpaulin, pea-jacket, and sailor-cloth +trousers, as a lake fish to a Newfoundland cod. + +Nothing struck me more in Burlington, than the great number of Irish +emigrants. They have filled the British Provinces to the brim, and +still continue to ascend the St. Lawrence in infinite tribes +overflowing by every outlet into the States. At Burlington, they swarm +in huts and mean dwellings near the lake, lounge about the wharves, and +elbow the native citizens entirely out of competition in their own +line. Every species of mere bodily labor is the prerogative of these +Irish. Such is their multitude in comparison with any possible demand +for their services, that it is difficult to conceive how a third part +of them should earn even a daily glass of whiskey, which is doubtless +their first necessary of life,—daily bread being only the second. + +Some were angling in the lake, but had caught only a few perch, which +little fishes, without a miracle, would be nothing among so many. A +miracle there certainly must have been, and a daily one, for the +subsistence of these wandering hordes. The men exhibit a lazy strength +and careless merriment, as if they had fed well hitherto, and meant to +feed better hereafter; the women strode about, uncovered in the open +air, with far plumper waists and brawnier limbs as well as bolder +faces, than our shy and slender females; and their progeny, which was +innumerable, had the reddest and the roundest cheeks of any children in +America. + +While we stood at the wharf, the bell of a steamboat gave two +preliminary peals, and she dashed away for Plattsburgh, leaving a trail +of smoky breath behind, and breaking the glassy surface of the lake +before her. Our next movement brought us into a handsome and busy +square, the sides of which were filled up with white houses, brick +stores, a church, a court-house, and a bank. Some of these edifices had +roofs of tin, in the fashion of Montreal, and glittered in the sun with +cheerful splendor, imparting a lively effect to the whole square. One +brick building, designated in large letters as the custom-house, +reminded us that this inland village is a port of entry, largely +concerned in foreign trade and holding daily intercourse with the +British empire. In this border country the Canadian bank-notes +circulate as freely as our own, and British and American coin are +jumbled into the same pocket, the effigies of the King of England being +made to kiss those of the Goddess of Liberty. + +Perhaps there was an emblem in the involuntary contact. There was a +pleasant mixture of people in the square of Burlington, such as cannot +be seen elsewhere, at one view; merchants from Montreal, British +officers from the frontier garrisons, French Canadians, wandering +Irish, Scotchmen of a better class, gentlemen of the South on a +pleasure tour, country squires on business; and a great throng of Green +Mountain boys, with their horse-wagons and ox-teams, true Yankees in +aspect, and looking more superlatively so, by contrast with such a +variety of foreigners. + +II. ROCHESTER + +The gray but transparent evening rather shaded than obscured the scene, +leaving its stronger features visible, and even improved by the medium +through which I beheld them. The volume of water is not very great, nor +the roar deep enough to be termed grand, though such praise might have +been appropriate before the good people of Rochester had abstracted a +part of the unprofitable sublimity of the cascade. The Genesee has +contributed so bountifully to their canals and mill-dams, that it +approaches the precipice with diminished pomp, and rushes over it in +foamy streams of various width, leaving a broad face of the rock +insulated and unwashed, between the two main branches of the falling +river. Still it was an impressive sight, to one who had not seen +Niagara. I confess, however, that my chief interest arose from a +legend, connected with these falls, which will become poetical in the +lapse of years, and was already so to me as I pictured the catastrophe +out of dusk and solitude. It was from a platform, raised over the naked +island of the cliff, in the middle of the cataract that Sam Patch took +his last leap, and alighted in the other world. Strange as it may +appear,—that any uncertainty should rest upon his fate which was +consummated in the sight of thousands,—many will tell you that the +illustrious Patch concealed himself in a cave under the falls, and has +continued to enjoy posthumous renown, without foregoing the comforts of +this present life. But the poor fellow prized the shout of the +multitude too much not to have claimed it at the instant, had he +survived. He will not be seen again, unless his ghost, in such a +twilight as when I was there, should emerge from the foam, and vanish +among the shadows that fall from cliff to cliff. + +How stern a moral may be drawn from the story of poor Sam Patch! Why do +we call him a madman or a fool, when he has left his memory around the +falls of the Genesee, more permanently than if the letters of his name +had been hewn into the forehead of the precipice? + +Was the leaper of cataracts more mad or foolish than other men who +throw away life, or misspend it in pursuit of empty fame, and seldom so +triumphantly as he? That which he won is as invaluable as any except +the unsought glory, spreading like the rich perfume of richer fruit +from various and useful deeds. + +Thus musing, wise in theory, but practically as great a fool as Sam, I +lifted my eyes and beheld the spires, warehouses, and dwellings of +Rochester, half a mile distant on both sides of the river, indistinctly +cheerful, with the twinkling of many lights amid the fall of the +evening. + +The town had sprung up like a mushroom, but no presage of decay could +be drawn from its hasty growth. Its edifices are of dusky brick, and of +stone that will not be grayer in a hundred years than now; its churches +are Gothic; it is impossible to look at its worn pavements and conceive +how lately the forest leaves have been swept away. The most ancient +town in Massachusetts appears quite like an affair of yesterday, +compared with Rochester. Its attributes of youth are the activity and +eager life with which it is redundant. The whole street, sidewalks and +centre, was crowded with pedestrians, horsemen, stage-coaches, gigs, +light wagons, and heavy ox-teams, all hurrying, trotting, rattling, and +rumbling, in a throng that passed continually, but never passed away. +Here, a country wife was selecting a churn from several gayly painted +ones on the sunny sidewalk; there, a farmer was bartering his produce; +and, in two or three places, a crowd of people were showering bids on a +vociferous auctioneer. I saw a great wagon and an ox-chain knocked off +to a very pretty woman. Numerous were the lottery offices,—those true +temples of Mammon,—where red and yellow bills offered splendid fortunes +to the world at large, and banners of painted cloth gave notice that +the “lottery draws next Wednesday.” At the ringing of a bell, judges, +jurymen, lawyers, and clients, elbowed each other to the court-house, +to busy themselves with cases that would doubtless illustrate the state +of society, had I the means of reporting them. The number of public +houses benefited the flow of temporary population; some were farmer’s +taverns,—cheap, homely, and comfortable; others were magnificent +hotels, with negro waiters, gentlemanly landlords in black broad-cloth, +and foppish bar-keepers in Broadway coats, with chased gold watches in +their waistcoat-pockets. I caught one of these fellows quizzing me +through an eye-glass. The porters were lumbering up the steps with +baggage from the packet boats, while waiters plied the brush on dusty +travellers, who, meanwhile, glanced over the innumerable advertisements +in the daily papers. + +In short, everybody seemed to be there, and all had something to do, +and were doing it with all their might, except a party of drunken +recruits for the Western military posts, principally Irish and Scotch, +though they wore Uncle Sam’s gray jacket and trousers. I noticed one +other idle man. He carried a rifle on his shoulder and a powder-horn +across his breast, and appeared to stare about him with confused +wonder, as if, while he was listening to the wind among the forest +boughs, the hum and bustle of an instantaneous city had surrounded him. + +A NIGHT SCENE + +The steamboat in which I was passenger for Detroit had put into the +mouth of a small river, where the greater part of the night would be +spent in repairing some damages of the machinery. + +As the evening was warm, though cloudy and very dark, I stood on deck, +watching a scene that would not have attracted a second glance in the +daytime, but became picturesque by the magic of strong light and deep +shade. + +Some wild Irishmen were replenishing our stock of wood, and had kindled +a great fire on the bank to illuminate their labors. It was composed of +large logs and dry brushwood, heaped together with careless profusion, +blazing fiercely, spouting showers of sparks into the darkness, and +gleaming wide over Lake Erie,—a beacon for perplexed voyagers leagues +from land. + +All around and above the furnace, there was total obscurity. No trees +or other objects caught and reflected any portion of the brightness, +which thus wasted itself in the immense void of night, as if it +quivered from the expiring embers of the world, after the final +conflagration. But the Irishmen were continually emerging from the +dense gloom, passing through the lurid glow, and vanishing into the +gloom on the other side. Sometimes a whole figure would be made +visible, by the shirtsleeves and light-colored dress; others were but +half seen, like imperfect creatures; many flitted, shadow-like, along +the skirts of darkness, tempting fancy to a vain pursuit; and often, a +face alone was reddened by the fire, and stared strangely distinct, +with no traces of a body. In short these wild Irish, distorted and +exaggerated by the blaze, now lost in deep shadow, now bursting into +sudden splendor, and now struggling between light and darkness, formed +a picture which might have been transferred, almost unaltered, to a +tale of the supernatural. As they all carried lanterns of wood, and +often flung sticks upon the fire, the least imaginative spectator would +at once compare them to devils condemned to keep alive the flames of +their own torments. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the +United States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. 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