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diff --git a/8998-8.txt b/8998-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..18b4cd8 --- /dev/null +++ b/8998-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,26882 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Paris As It Was and As It Is, by Francis W. Blagdon + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Paris As It Was and As It Is + +Author: Francis W. Blagdon + +Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8998] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on August 31, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PARIS AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS *** + + + + +Produced by John Hagerson, Carlo Traverso, and Distributed Proofreaders + + + + +PARIS + +AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS; + +OR + +A Sketch of the French Capital, + +ILLUSTRATIVE OF + +THE EFFECTS OF THE REVOLUTION, + +WITH RESPECT TO + +SCIENCES, +LITERATURE, +ARTS, +RELIGION, +EDUCATION, +MANNERS, +AND +AMUSEMENTS; + +COMPRISING ALSO + +A correct Account of the most remarkable National Establishments and +Public Buildings. + +In a Series of Letters, + +WRITTEN BY AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER, + +DURING THE YEARS 1801-2, + +TO A FRIEND IN LONDON. + + * * * * * + +_Ipsâ varietate tentamus efficere, ut alia aliis, quædem fortasse +omnibus placeant. PLIN. Epist._ + + * * * * * + + +VOL. I + +LONDON + +1803 + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + +In the course of the following production, the Reader will meet with +several references to a Plan of Paris, which it had been intended to +prefix to the work; but that intention having been frustrated by the +rupture between the two countries, in consequence of which the copies +for the whole of the Edition have been detained at Calais, it is +hoped that this apology will be accepted for the omission. + + + +CONTENTS. + + +VOLUME FIRST. + +New Organization of the National Institute + +INTRODUCTION + +LETTER I. +On the ratification of the preliminary treaty of peace, the author +leaves London for Paris--He arrives at Calais on the 16th of October, +1801--Apparent effect of the peace--After having obtained a passport, +he proceeds to Paris, in company with a French naval officer. + +LETTER II. +Journey from Calais to Paris--Improved state of agriculture--None of +the French gun-boats off Boulogne moored with chains at the time of +the attack--St. Denis--General sweep made, in 1793, among the +sepultures in that abbey--Arrival at Paris--Turnpikes now established +throughout Prance--Custom-house scrutiny. + +LETTER III. +Objects which first strike the observer on arriving at Paris after an +absence of ten or twelve years--Tumult in the streets considerably +diminished since the revolution--No liveries seen--Streets less +dangerous than formerly to pedestrians--Visits paid to different +persons by the author--Price of lodgings nearly doubled since 1789 +--The author takes apartments in a private house. + +LETTER IV. +Climate of Paris--_Thermolampes_ or stoves which afford light and +heat on an economical plan--Sword whose hilt was adorned with the +_Pitt_ diamond, and others of considerable value, presented to the +Chief Consul. + +LETTER V. +Plan on which these letters are written. + +LETTER VI. +The _Louvre_ or _National Palace of Arts and Sciences_ described +--_Old Louvre_--Horrors of St. Bartholomew's day--From this palace +Charles IX fired on his own subjects--Additions successively made to +it by different kings--_Bernini_, sent for by Lewis XIV, forwarded +the foundation of the _New Louvre_, and returned to Italy--_Perrault_ +produced the beautiful colonnade of the _Louvre_, the master-piece of +French architecture--Anecdote of the Queen of England, relict of +Charles I--Public exhibition of the productions of French Industry. + +LETTER VII. +_Central Museum of the Arts_--_Gallery of Antiques_--Description of +the different halls and of the most remarkable statues contained in +them, with original observations by the learned connoisseur, +_Visconti_. + +LETTER VIII. +Description of the _Gallery of Antiques_, and of its _chefs-d'oeuvre_ +of sculpture continued and terminated--Noble example set by the +French in throwing open their museums and national establishments to +public inspection--Liberal indulgence shewn to foreigners. + +LETTER IX. +General A----y's breakfast--Montmartre--Prospect thence enjoyed +--Theatres. + +LETTER X. +Regulations of the Police to be observed by a stranger on his arrival +in the French capital--Pieces represented at the _Théâtre Louvois_ +--_Palais du gouvernement_ or Palace of the Tuileries described--It was +constructed, by Catherine de Medicis, enlarged by Henry IV and Lewis +XIII, and finished By Lewis XIV--The tenth of August, 1792, as +pourtrayed by an actor in that memorable scene--Number of lives lost +on the occasion--Sale of the furniture, the king's wardrobe, and +other effects found in the palace--_Place du Carrousel_--Famous +horses of gilt bronze brought from Venice and placed here--The fate +of France suspended by a thread--Fall of _Robespiere_ and his +adherents. + +LETTER XI. +Massacre of the prisoners at Paris in September, 1792--Private ball +--The French much improved in dancing--The waltz described--Dress of +the women. + +LETTER XII. +_Bonaparte_--Grand monthly parade--Agility of the First Consul in +mounting his charger--Consular guards, a remarkably fine body of men +--Horses of the French cavalry, sorry in appearance, but capable of +enduring fatigue and privations. + +LETTER XIII. +_Jardin des Tuileries_--This garden now kept in better order than +under the monarchy--The newly-built house of _Véry_, the +_restaurateur_--This quarter calls to mind the most remarkable events +in the history of the revolution--_Place de la Concorde_--Its name is +a strong contrast to the great number of victims here sacrificed +--Execution of the King and Queen, _Philippe Égalité_, _Charlotte +Corday_, Madame _Roland_, _Robespiere_, _cum multus aliis_ +--Unexampled dispatch introduced in putting persons to death by means +of the guillotine--_Guillotin_, the inventor or improver of this +instrument, dies of grief--Little impression left on the mind of the +spectators of these sanguinary scenes--Lord _Cornwallis_ arrives in +Paris. + +LETTER XIV. +National fête, in honour of peace, celebrated in Paris on the 18th of +Brumaire, year X (9th of November, 1801)--_Garnerin_ and his wife +ascend in a balloon--Brilliancy of the illuminations--Laughable +accident. + +LETTER XV. +Description of the fête continued--Apparent apathy of the people +--Songs composed in commemoration of this joyful event--Imitation of +one of them. + +LETTER XVI. +_Gallery of the Louvre_--_Saloon of the Louvre_--Italian School--The +most remarkable pictures in the collection mentioned, with original +remarks on the masters by _Visconti_--Lord _Cornwallis's_ reception +in Paris. + +LETTER XVII. +_Gallery of the Louvre_ in continuation--French School--Flemish +School--The pictures in the _Saloon_ are seen to much greater +advantage than those in the _Gallery_--_Gallery of Apollo_--These +superb repositories of the finest works of art are indiscriminately +open to the public. + +LETTER XVIII. +_Palais Royal_, now called _Palais du Tribunat_--Its construction +begun, in 1629, by Cardinal _Richelieu_, who makes a present of it to +_Lewis_ XIII--It becomes the property of the Orleans family--Anecdote +of the Regent--Considerable alterations made in this palace--_Jardin +du Palais du Tribunat_--This garden is surrounded by a range of +handsome buildings, erected in 1782 by the duke of Orleans, then duke +of Chartres--The _Cirque_ burnt down in 1797--Contrast between the +company seen here in 1789 and in 1801--The _Palais Royal_, the +theatre of political commotions--Mutual enmity of the queen and the +duke of Orleans, which, in the sequel, brought these great personages +to the scaffold--Their improper example imitated by the nobility of +both sexes--The projects of each defeated--The duke's pusillanimity +was a bar to his ambition--He exhausted his immense fortune to gain +partisans, and secure the attachment of the people--His imprisonment, +trial, and death. + +LETTER XIX. +The _Palais du Tribunat_, an epitome of all the trades in Paris +--Prohibited publications--Mock auctions--_Magazins de confiance à prix +fixe_--Two speculations, of a somewhat curious nature, established +there with success--_The Palais Royal_, a vortex of dissipation +--Scheme of _Merlin_ of Douay for cleansing this Augæan stable. + +LETTER XX. +_Thé_, a sort of route--Contrast in the mode of life of the Parisians +before and since the revolution--_Petits soupers_ described--An +Englishman improves on all the French _bons vivans_ under the old +_régime_. + +LETTER XXI. +Public places of various descriptions--Their title and number +--Contrast between the interior police now established in the theatres +in Paris, and that which existed before the revolution--Admirable +regulations at present adopted for the preservation of order at the +door of the theatres--Comparatively small number of carriages now +seen in waiting at the grand French opera. + +LETTER XXII. +_Palais du Corps Législatif_--Description of the hall of the sittings +of that body--Opening of the session--Speech of the President--Lord +_Cornwallis_ and suite present at this sitting--_Petits appartemens_ +of the _ci-devant Palais Bourbon_ described. + +LETTER XXIII. +_Halle au Blé_--Lightness of the roof of the dome--Annual consumption +of bread-corn in _Paris_--Astrologers--In former times, their number +in _Paris_ exceeded _30,000_--Fortune-tellers of the present day +--Church of _St. Eustache_--_Tourville_, the brave opponent of Admiral +_Russel_, had no epitaph--Festivals of reason described. + +LETTER XXIV. +_Museum of French Monuments_--Steps taken by the Constituent Assembly +to arrest the progress of Vandalism--Many master-pieces of painting, +sculpture, and architecture, destroyed in various parts of France +--_Grégoire_, ex-bishop of Blois, publishes three reports, to expose +the madness of irreligious barbarism, which claim particular +distinction.--They saved from destruction many articles of value in +the provinces--Antique monuments found in 1711, in digging among the +foundation of the ancient church of Paris--Indefatigable exertions of +_Lenoir_, the conservator of this museum--The halls of this museum +fitted up according to the precise character peculiar to each +century, and the monuments arranged in them in historical and +chronological order--Tombs of _Clovis_, _Childebert_, and +_Chilperic_--Statues of _Charlemagne_, _Lewis IX_, and of _Charles_, +his brother, together with those of the kings that successively +appeared in this age down to king _John_--Tombs of _Charles V_, _Du +Gueselin_, and _Sancerre_--Mausolea of _Louis d'Orléans_ and of +_Valentine de Milan_--Statues of _Charles VI_, _Rénée d'Orléans_, +_Philippe de Commines_, _Lewis XI_, _Charles VII_, _Joan_ of _Arc_, +_Isabeau de Bavière_--Tomb of _Lewis XII_--Tragical death of +_Charles_ the _Bad_. + +LETTER XXV. +_Museum of French Monuments_ continued--Tombs of _Francis I_, of the +_Valois_, and of _Diane de Poitiers_--Character of that celebrated +woman--Statues of _Turenne_, _Condé_, _Colbert_, _La Fontaine_, +_Racine_, and _Lewis XIV_--Mausolea of Cardinals _Richelieu_ and +_Mazarin_--Statues of _Montesquieu_, _Fontenelle_, _Voltaire_, +_Rousseau_, _Helvetius_, _Crébillon_, and _Piron_--Tombs of +_Maupertuis_, _Caylus_, and Marshal _d'Harcourt_--This museum +contains a chronology of monuments, both antique and modern, from +2500 years before our era down to the present time, beginning with +those of ancient Greece, and following all the gradations of the art +from its cradle to its decrepitude--Sepulchre of _Héloïse_ and +_Abélard_. + +LETTER XXVI. +Dinner at General _A----y's_--Difference in the duration of such a +repast now and before the revolution--The General's ancestor, +_François A----y_, planned and completed the famous canal of +Languedoc--_Dépôt de la guerre_--Such an establishment much wanted in +England--Its acknowledged utility has induced Austria, Spain, and +Portugal, to form others of a similar nature--Geographical and +topographical riches of this _dépôt_. + +LETTER XXVII. +_Boulevards_--Their extent--Amusements they present--_Porte St. +Denis_--Anecdote of Charles VI--_Porte St. Martin_--_La Magdeleine_ +--Ambulating conjurers--Means they employ to captivate curiosity. + +LETTER XXVIII. +French funds and national debt--Supposed liquidation of an annuity +held by a foreigner before the war, and yet unliquidated--Value of a +franc. + +LETTER XXIX. +Grand monthly parade--Etiquette observed on this occasion, in the +apartments of the palace of the _Tuileries_--_Bonaparte_--His person +--His public character in Paris--Obstruction which the First Consul +met with in returning from the parade--_Champs Elysées_--Sports and +diversions there practised--Horses, brought from Marly to this spot, +the master-pieces of the two celebrated sculptors, _Costou_ +--Comparison they afford to politicians. + +LETTER XXX. +_Madonna de Foligno_--Description of the method employed by the +French artists to transfer from pannel to canvass this celebrated +master-piece of _Raphael_. + +LETTER XXXI. +_Pont Neuf_--Henry IV--His popularity--Historical fact concerning the +cause of his assassination brought to light--The Seine swollen by the +rains--It presents a dull scene in comparison to the Thames--Great +number of washerwomen--_La Samaritaine_--Shoe-blacks on the _Pont +Neuf_--Their trade decreased--Recruiting Officers--The allurements +they formerly employed are now become unnecessary in consequence of +the conscription--Anecdote of a British officer on whom a French +recruiter had cast his eye--Disappointment that ensued. + +LETTER XXXII. +Balls now very numerous every evening in Paris--_Bal du Salon des +Étrangers_--Description of the women--Comparison between the French +and English ladies--Character of Madame _Tallien_--Generosity, +fortitude, and greatness of soul displayed by women during the most +calamitous periods of the revolution--Anecdote of a young Frenchman +smitten by a widow--An attachment, founded on somewhat similar +circumstances, recorded by historians of Henry III of France +--Sympathy, and its effects. + +LETTER XXXIII. +_Pont National_, formerly called the _Pont Royal_--Anecdote of Henry +IV and a waterman--_Coup d'oeil_ from this bridge--Quays of Paris +--Galiot of St. Cloud--_Pont de la Concorde_--Paris besieged by the +Swedes, Danes, and Normans, in 885--The Seine covered with their +vessels for the space of two leagues--A vessel ascends the Seine from +Rouen to Paris in four days--Engineers have ever judged it +practicable to render the Seine navigable, from its mouth to the +capital, for vessels of a certain burden--Riches accruing from +commerce pave the way to the ruin of States, as well as the extension +of their conquests. + +LETTER XXXIV. +French literature--Effects produced on it by the revolution--The +sciences preferred to literature, and for what reason--The French +government has flattered the literati and artists; but the solid +distinctions have been reserved for men of science--Epic Poetry +--Tragedy--Comedy--Novels--Moral Fable--Madrigal and Epigram--Romance +--Lyric Poetry--Song--Journals. + +LETTER XXXV. +_Pont au Change_--_Palais de Justice_--Once a royal residence +--Banquet given there, in 1313, by Philip the Fair, at which were +present Edward II and his queen Isabella--Alterations which this +palace has undergone, in consequence of having, at different times, +been partly reduced to ashes--Madame _La Motte_ publicly whipped--In +1738, _Lewis XVI_ here held a famous bed of justice, in which +_D'Espresmenil_ struck the first blow at royalty--He was exiled to +the _Ile de St. Marguerite_--After having stirred up all the +parliaments against the royal authority, he again became the humble +servant of the crown--After the revolution, the _Palais de Justice_ +was the seat of the Revolutionary Tribunal--_Dumas_, its president, +proposed to assemble there five or six hundred victims at a time--He +was the next day condemned to death by the same tribunal--The _Palais +de Justice_, now the seat of different tribunals--The _grande +chambre_ newly embellished in the antique style--_La Conciergerie_, +the place of confinement of _Lavoisier_, _Malsherbes_, _Cordorcet_, +_&c._--Fortitude displayed by the hapless _Marie-Antoinette_ after +her condemnation--_Pont St. Michel_--_Pont Notre-Dame_--Cathedral of +_Notre-Dame_--Anecdote of _Pepin_ the Short--Devastations committed +in this cathedral--Medallions of _Abélard_ and _Héloïse_ to be seen +near _Notre-Dame_ in front of the house where _Fulbert_, her supposed +uncle, resided--_Petit Pont_--_Pont au Double_--_Pont Marie_--Workmen +now employed in the construction of three new bridges--_Pont de la +Tournelle_. + +LETTER XXXVI. +Paris a charming abode for a man of fortune--Summary of its +advantages--_Idalium_--_Tivoli_--_Frascati_--_Paphos_--_La +Phantasmagorie_ of _Robertson_--_Fitzjames_, the famous +ventriloquist--Method of converting a galantee-show into an +exhibition somewhat similar to that of the phantasmagorists. + +LETTER XXXVII. +Paris the most melancholy abode in the world for a man without money +--_Restaurateurs_--In 1765, _Boulanger_ first conceived the idea of +_restoring_ the exhausted animal functions of the delibitated +Parisians--He found many imitators--The _restaurateurs_, in order to +make their business answer, constitute themselves _traiteurs_--_La +Barrière_--_Beauvilliers_, _Robert_, _Naudet_, and _Véry_ dispute the +palm in the art of Appicius--Description of _Beauvilliers'_ +establishment--His bill of fare--Expense of dining at a fashionable +_restaurateur's_ in Paris--Contrast between establishments of this +kind existing before the revolution, and those in vogue at the +present day--Cheap eating-houses--The company now met with at the +fashionable rendezvous of good cheer compared with that seen here in +former times--_Cabinets particuliers_--Uses to which they are +applied--Advantages of a _restaurateur's_--_Beauvilliers_ pays great +attention to his guests--Cleanly and alert waiters--This +establishment is admirably well managed. + + +VOLUME SECOND. + +LETTER XXXVIII. +National Institution of the Deaf and Dumb--France indebted to the +philanthropic _Abbé de l'Épée_ for the discovery of the mode of +instructing them--It has been greatly improved by _Sicard_, the +present Institutor--Explanation of his system of instruction--The +deaf and dumb are taught grammar, metaphysics, logic, religion, the +use of the globes, geography, arithmetic, history, natural history, +arts and trades--Almost every thing used by them is made by +themselves--Lessons of analysis which astonish the spectators. + +LETTER XXXIX. +Public women--Charlemagne endeavours to banish them from Paris--His +daughters, though addicted to illicit enjoyments, die universally +regretted--_Les Filles Dieu_--_Les Filles pénitentes ou repenties_ +--Courtesans--Luxury displayed in their equipages and houses--Kept +women--Opera-dancers--Secret police maintained by Lewis XVI, in 1792 +--Grisettes--Demireps--A French woman, at thirty, makes an excellent +friend--_Rousseau's_ opinion of this particular class of women in +Paris. + +LETTER XL. +National Institution of the Industrious Blind--Circumstance which +gave rise to this establishment--_Valentin Haüy_, its founder, found +his project seconded by the Philanthropic Society--His plan of +instruction detailed--Museum of the Blind--After two or three +lessons, a blind child here teaches himself to read without the +further help of any master. + +LETTER XLI. +_Théâtre des Arts et de la République_, or Grand French opera--Old +opera-house burnt down, and a new one built and opened in 72 days +--Description of the present house--Operas of _Gluck_; also those of +_Piccini_ and _Sacchini_--Gluckists and Piccinists--The singing is +the weakest department at the French opera--Merits of the singers of +both sexes--Choruses very full--Orchestra famous--The Chief Consul, +being very partial to Italian music, sends to that land of harmony to +procure the finest musical compositions. + +LETTER XLII. +Dancing improved in France--Effect of some of the ballets--_Noverre_ +and _Gardel_ first introduce them on the French stage--Rapid change +of scenery--Merits of the dancers of both sexes--The rector of St. +Roch refuses to admit into that church the corpse of Mademoiselle +_Chameroi_--The dancers in private society now emulate those who make +dancing their profession--Receipts of the opera. + +LETTER XLIII. +New year's day still celebrated in Paris on the 1st of January +--Customs which prevail there on that occasion--_Denon's_ account of +the French expedition to Egypt--That country was the cradle of the +arts and sciences--_Fourrier_ confirms the theory of _Dupuis_, +respecting the origin, &c. of the figures of the Zodiac. + +LETTER XLIV. +_Hôtel des Invalides_--It was projected by Henry IV and erected by +Lewis XIV--Temple of Mars--To its arches are suspended the standards +and colours taken from the enemy--Two British flags only are among +the number--Monument of _Turenne_--Circumstances of his death--Dome +of the _Invalides_--Its refectories and kitchens--Anecdote of Peter +the Great--Reflections on establishments of this description--_Champ +de Mars_--_École Militaire_--Various scenes of which the _Champ de +Mars_ has been the theatre--Death of _Bailly_--Modern national fêtes +in France, a humble imitation of the Olympic games. + +LETTER XLV. +Object of the different learned and scientific institutions, which, +before the revolution, held their sittings in the _Louvre_--Anecdote +of Cardinal Richelieu--National Institute of Arts and Sciences +--Organization of that learned body--Description of the apartments of +the Institute--Account of its public quarterly meeting of the 15th +Nivose, year X, (5th of January, 1802)--Marriage of Mademoiselle +_Beauharnois_ to _Louis Bonaparte_. + +LETTER XLVI. +_Opéra Buffa_--The Italian comedians who came to Paris in 1788, had a +rapid influence on the musical taste of the French public--Performers +of the new Italian company--Productions of _Cimarosa_, _Paësiello_, +&c.--Madame _Bolla_. + +LETTER XLVII. +Present state of public worship--Summary of the proceedings of the +constitutional clergy--National councils of the Gallican church held +at Paris--Conduct of the Pope, _Pius VII_--The Cardinal Legate, +_Caprara_, arrives in Paris--The Concordat is signed--Subsequent +transactions. + +LETTER XLVIII. +_Pantheon_--Description of this edifice--_Marat_ and _Mirabeau_ +pantheonized and dispantheonized--The remains of _Voltaire_ and +_Rousseau_ removed hither--The Pantheon in danger of falling--This +apprehension no longer exists--_Bonaparte_ leaves Paris for Lyons. + +LETTER XLIX. +Scientific societies of Paris--_Société Philotechnique_--_Société +Libre des Sciences, Lettres, et Arts_--_Athénée des Arts_--_Société +Philomatique_--_Société Académique des Sciences_--_Société +Galvanique_--_Société des Belles-Lettres_--_Académie de Législation_ +--_Observateurs de l'Homme_--_Athénée de Paris_. + +LETTER L. +Coffee-houses--Character of the company who frequent them--Contrast +between the coffee-houses of the present and former times--Coffee +first introduced at Paris, in 1669, by the Turkish ambassador--_Café +méchanique_--Subterraneous coffee-houses of the _Palais du +Tribunat_. + +LETTER LI. +Public instruction--The ancient colleges and universities are +replaced by Primary Schools, Secondary Schools, Lyceums, and Special +Schools--National pupils--Annual cost of these establishments +--Contrast between the old system of education and the new plan, +recently organized. + +LETTER LII. +Milliners--_Montesquieu's_ observation on the commands of the fair +sex--Millinery a very extensive branch of trade in Paris--_Bal de +l'Opéra_--Dress of the men and women--Adventures are the chief object +of those who frequent these masquerades. + +LETTER LIII. +_Théâtre Français de la République_--The house described--List of the +stock-pieces--Names of their authors--_Fabre d'Eglantine_--His +_Philinte de Molière_ a _chef-d'oeuvre_--Some account of its author +--_La Chaussée_ the father of the _drame_, a tragi-comic species of +dramatic composition. + +LETTER LIV. +Principal performers in tragedy at the _Théâtre Français_--_Vanhove_, +_Monvel_, _St. Prix_, and _Naudet_--_Talma_, and _Lafond_--_St. Fal_, +_Damas_, and _Dupont_--Mesdames _Raucourt_ and _Vestris_--Mesdames +_Fleury_, _Talma_, _Bourgoin_, and _Volnais_--Mesdames _Suin_ and +_Thénard_--_Début_ of Mademoiselle _Duchesnois_; Madame _Xavier_, and +Mademoiselle _Georges_--Disorderly conduct of the _Duchesnistes_, who +are routed by the _Georgistes_. + +LETTER LV. +Principal performers in comedy at the _Théâtre Français_--_Vanhove_, +and _Naudet_--_Molé_, _Fleury_, and _Baptiste_ the elder--_St. Fal_, +_Dupont_, _Damas_, and _Armand_--_Grandménil_, and _Caumont_ +--_Dugazon_, _Dazincourt_, and _Larochelle_--Mesdemoiselles _Contat_, +and _Mézeray_--Madame _Talma_--Mesdemoiselles _Mars, Bourgoin_, and +_Gros_--Mesdemoiselles _Lachassaigne_ and _Thénard_--Mesdemoiselles +_Devienne_ and _Desbrosses_--Contrast between the state of the French +stage before and since the revolution. + +LETTER LVI. +French women fond of appearing in male attire--Costume of the French +Ladies--Contrast it now presents to that formerly worn--The change in +their dress has tended to strengthen their constitution--The women in +Paris extremely cleanly in their persons--Are now very healthy. + +LETTER LVII. +The studies in the colleges and universities interrupted by bands of +insurgents--_Collège de France_--It is in this country the only +establishment where every branch of human knowledge is taught in its +fullest extent--Was founded by Francis I--Disputes between this new +College and the University--Its increasing progress--The improvements +in the sciences spread by the instruction of this College--Its +present state. + +LETTER LVIII. +_Théâtre de l'Opéra Comique_--Authors who have furnished it with +stock-pieces, and composers who have set them to music--Principal +performers at this theatre--_Elleviou_, _Gavaudan_, _Philippe_, and +_Gaveaux_--_Chenard_, _Martin_, _Rézicourt_, _Juliet_, and _Moreau_ +--_Solié_, and _St. Aubin_--_Dozainville_, and _Lesage_--Mesdames _St. +Aubin_, _Scio_, _Lesage_, _Crétu_, _Philis_ the elder, _Gavaudan_, +and _Pingenet_--Mesdames _Dugazon_, _Philippe_, and _Gonthier_. + +LETTER LIX. +France owes her salvation to the _savans_ or men of science +--Polytechnic School--Its object--Its formation and subsequent +progress--Changes recently introduced into this interesting +establishment. + +LETTER LX. +Pickpockets and sharpers--Anecdote of a female swindler--Anecdote of +a sharper--Housebreakers--_Chauffeurs_--A new species of assassins +--_Place de Grève_--Punishment for thieves re-established--On the +continent, ladies flock to the execution of criminals. + +LETTER LXI. +Schools for Public Services--The Polytechnic School, the grand +nursery whence the pupils are transplanted into the Schools of +Artillery, Military Engineers, Bridges and Highways, Mines, Naval +Engineers, and Navigation--Account of these schools--_Prytanée +Français_--Special Schools--Special School of Painting and Sculpture +--Competitions--National School of Architecture--Conservatory of +Music--Present state of Music in France--Music has done wonders in +reviving the courage of the French soldiers--The French are no less +indebted to _Rouget de Lille_, author of the _Marseillois_, than the +Spartans were to _Tyrtæus_--Gratuitous School for Drawing--Veterinary +School--New Special Schools to Le established in France. + +LETTER LXII. +Funerals--No medium in them under the old _régime_--Ceremonies +formerly observed--Those practised at the present day--Marriages +--Contrast they present. + +LETTER LXIII. +Public Libraries--_Bibliothèque Nationale_--Its acquisitions since +the revolution--School for Oriental Living Languages. + +LETTER LXIV. +_Bibliothèque Mazarine_--_Bibliothèque du Panthéon_--_Bibliothèque de +l'Arsenal_--The Arsenal--Other libraries and literary _dépôts_ in +Paris. + +LETTER LXV. +Dancing--Nomenclature of caperers in Paris, from the wealthiest +classes down to the poorest--Beggars form the last link of the chain. + +LETTER LXVI. +_Bureau des Longitudes_--Is on a more extensive scale than the Board +of Longitude in England--National Observatory--Subterraneous quarries +that have furnished the stone with which most of the houses in Paris +are constructed--Measures taken to prevent the buildings in Paris +from being swallowed up in these extensive labyrinths--Present state +of the Observatory--_Lalande_, _Méchain_, and _Bouvard_--_Carroché_, +and _Lenoir_--_Lavoisier_, and _Borda_--_Delambre_, _Laplace_, +_Burckhardt_, _Vidal_, _Biot_, and _Puisson_--New French weights and +measures--Concise account of the operations employed in measuring an +arc of the terrestrial meridian--Table of the new French measures and +weights--Their correspondence with the old, and also with those of +England. + +LETTER LXVII. +_Dépôt de la Marine_--An establishment much wanted in England. + +LETTER LXVIII. +_Théâtre Louvois_--_Picard_, the manager of this theatre, is the +_Molière_ of his company--_La Grande Ville, ou les Provinciaux à +Paris_--Principal performers at this theatre--_Picard_, _Devigny_, +_Dorsan_, and _Clozel_--Mesdemoiselles _Adeline_, _Molière_, +_Lescot_, and Madame _Molé_--_Théâtre du Vaudeville_--Authors who +write for this theatre--Principal performers--Public malignity, the +main support of this theatre. + +LETTER LXIX. +_Hôtel de la Monnaie_--Description of this building--_Musée des +Mines_--Formed by M. _Sage_--The arrangement of this cabinet is +excellent--_Cabinet du Conseil des Mines_--Principal mineral +substances discovered in France since the revolution. + +LETTER LXX. +_Théâtre Montansier_--Principal performers--_Ambigu Comique_--The +curiosity of a stranger may be satisfied in a single visit to each of +the minor theatres in Paris. + +LETTER LXXI. +Police of Paris--Historical sketch of it--Its perfections and +imperfections--Anecdote of a minister of police--_Mouchards_ +--Anecdote which shews the detestation in which they are held--The +Parisian police extends to foreign countries--This truth exemplified +by two remarkable facts--No _habeas corpus_ in France. + +LETTER LXXII. +The _savans_ saved France, when their country was invaded +--Astonishing exertions made by the French on that occasion--Anecdote +relating to _Robespierre_--Extraordinary resources created by the men +of science--Means employed for increasing the manufacture of powder, +cannon, and muskets--The produce of these new manufactories +contrasted with that of the old ones--Territorial acquisitions of the +French--The Carnival revived in Paris. + +LETTER LXXIII. +Public gaming-houses--_Académies de jeu_, which existed in Paris +before the revolution--Gaming-houses licensed by the police--The +privilege of granting those licences is farmed by a private +individual--Description of the _Maisons de jeu_--Anecdote of an old +professed gambler--Gaming prevails in all the principal towns of +France--The excuse of the old government for promoting gaming, is +reproduced at the present day. + +LETTER LXXIV. +Museum of Natural History, or _Jardin des Plantes_--Is much enlarged +since the revolution--One of the first establishments of instruction +in Europe--Contrast between its former state and that in which it now +is--_Fourcroy_, the present director--His eloquence--Collections in +this establishment--Curious articles which claim particular notice. + +LETTER LXXV. +The Carnival--That of 1802 described--The Carnival of modern times, +an imitation of the Saturnalia of the ancients--Was for some years +prohibited, since the revolution--Contrast between the Carnival under +the monarchy and under the republican government. + +LETTER LXXVI. +_Palais du Sénat Conservateur_, or _Luxembourg_ Palace--Mary of +Medicis, by whom it was erected, died in a garret--It belonged to +_Monsieur_, before the revolution--Improvements in the garden of the +Senate--National nursery formed in an adjoining piece of ground +--_Bastille_--_Le Temple_--Its origin--Lewis XVI and his family +confined in this modern state-prison. + +LETTER LXXVII. +Present slate of the French Press--The liberty of the press, the +measure of civil liberty--Comparison, between the state of the press +in France and in England. + +LETTER LXXVIII. +Hospitals and other charitable institutions--_Hôtel-Dieu_--Extract +from the report of the _Academy of Sciences_ on this abode of +pestilence--Reforms introduced into it since the revolution--The +present method of purifying French hospitals deserves to be adopted +in England--Other hospitals in Paris--_Hospice de la Maternité_--_La +Salpêtrière_--_Bicêtre_--Faculties and Colleges of Physicians, as +will as Colleges and Commonalties of Surgeons, replaced in France by +Schools of Health--School of Medicine of Paris--France overrun by +quacks--New law for checking the serious mischief they occasion +--Society of Medicine--Gratuitous School of Pharmacy--Free Society of +Apothecaries--Changes in the teaching and practice of medicine in +France. + +LETTER LXXIX. +Private seminaries for youth of both sexes--Female education +--Contrast between that formerly received in convents, and that now +practised in the modern French boarding-schools. + +LETTER LXXX. +Progressive aggrandisement of Paris--Its origin--Under the name of +Lutetia, it was the capital of Gaul--Julian's account of it--The +sieges it has sustained--Successively embellished by different kings +--Progressive amelioration of the manners of its inhabitants--Rapid +view of the causes which improved them, from the reign of Philip +Augustus to that of Lewis XIV--Contrast between the number of public +buildings before and since the revolution--Population of Paris, from +official documents--Ancient division of Paris--Is now divided into +twelve mayoralties--_Barrières_ and high wall by which it is +surrounded--Anecdote of the _commis des barrières_ seizing an +Egyptian mummy. + +LETTER LXXXI. +French Furniture--The events of the revolution have contributed to +improve the taste of persons connected with the furnishing line +--Contrast between the style of the furniture in the Parisian houses +in 1789-90 and 1801-2--_Les Gobelins_, the celebrated national +manufactory for tapestry--_La Savonnerie_, a national manufactory for +carpeting--National manufactory of plate-glass. + +LETTER LXXXII. +Academy of Fine Arts at the _ci-devant Collège de Navarre_ +--Description of the establishment of the _Piranesi_--Three hundred +artists of different nations distributed in the seven classes of this +academy--Different works executed here in Painting, Sculpture, +Architecture, Mosaic, and Engraving. + +LETTER LXXXIII. +Conservatory of Arts and Trades--It contains a numerous collection of +machines of every description employed in the mechanical arts +--_Belier hydraulique_, newly invented by _Montgolfier_--Models of +curious buildings--The mechanical arts in France have experienced +more or less the impulse given to the sciences--The introduction of +the Spanish merinos has greatly improved the French wools--New +inventions and discoveries adopted in the French manufactories +--Characteristic difference of the present state of French industry, +and that in which it was before the revolution. + +LETTER LXXXIV. +Society for the encouragement of national industry--Its origin--Its +objects detailed--Free Society of Agriculture--Amidst the storms of +the revolution, agriculture has teen improved in France--Causes of +that improvement--The present state of agriculture briefly contrasted +with that which existed before the revolution--_Didot's_ stereotypic +editions of the classics--Advantages attending the use of stereotype +--This invention claimed by France, but proved to belong to Britain +--Printing-office of the Republic, the most complete typographical +establishment in being. + +LETTER LXXXV. +Present State of Society in Paris--In that city are three very +distinct kinds of society--Description of each of these--Other +societies are no more than a diminutive of the preceding--Philosophy +of the French in forgeting their misfortunes and losses--The +signature of the definitive treaty announced by the sound of cannon +--In the evening a grand illumination is displayed. + +LETTER LXXXVI. +Urbanity of the Parisians towards strangers--The shopkeepers in Paris +overcharge their articles--Furnished Lodgings--Their price--The +_Milords Anglais_ now eclipsed by the Russian Counts--Expense of +board in Paris--Job and Hackney Carriages--Are much improved since +the revolution--Fare of the latter--Expense of the former +--Cabriolets--Regulations of the police concerning these carriages +--The negligence of drivers now meets with due chastisement--French +women astonish bespattered foreigners by walking the streets with +spotless stockings--Valets-de-place--Their wages augmented--General +Observations--An English traveller, on visiting Paris, should provide +himself with letters of recommendation--Unless an Englishman acquires +a competent knowledge of the manners of the country, he fails in what +ought to be the grand object of foreign travel--Situation of one who +brings no letters to Paris--The French now make a distinction between +individuals only, not between nations--Are still indulgent to the +English--Animadversion on the improper conduct of irrational British +youths. + +LETTER LXXXVII. +Divorce--The indissolubility of marriage in France, before the +revolution, was supposed to promote adultery--No such excuse can now +be pleaded--Origin of the present laws on divorce--Comparison on that +subject between the French and the Romans--The effect of these laws +illustrated by examples--The stage ought to be made to conduce to the +amelioration of morals--In France, the men blame the women, with a +view of extenuating their own irregularities--To reform women, men +ought to begin by reforming themselves. + +LETTER LXXXVIII. +The author is recalled to England--Mendicants--The streets of Paris +less infested by them now than before the revolution--Pawnbrokers +--Their numbers much increased in Paris, and why--_Mont de Piété_ +--Lotteries now established in the principal towns in France--The +fatal consequences of this incentive to gaming--Newspapers--Their +numbers considerably augmented--Journals the most in request--Baths +--_Bains Vigier_ described--School of Natation--Telegraphs--Those in +Paris differ from those in use in England--Telegraphic language may +be abridged--Private collections most deserving of notice in Paris +--_Dépôt d'armes_ of _M. Boutet_--_M. Régnier_, an ingenious mechanic +--The author's reason for confining his observations to the capital +--Metamorphoses in Paris--The site of the famous Jacobin convent is +intended for a market-place--Arts and Sciences are become popular in +France, since the revolution--The author makes _amende honorable_, or +confesses his inability to accomplish the task imposed on him by his +friend--He leaves Paris. + + + +NEW ORGANIZATION OF THE NATIONAL INSTITUTE.[1] + +On the 3d of Pluviôse, year XI (23d of January, 1803), the French +government passed the following decree on this subject. + +_Art_. I. The National Institute, at present divided into three +classes, shall henceforth consist of four; namely: + + _First Class_--Class of physical and mathematical sciences. + + + _Second Class_--Class of the French language and literature. + + _Third Class_--Class of history and ancient literature. + + _Fourth Class_--Class of fine arts. + +The present members of the Institute and associated foreigners shall +be divided into these four classes. A commission of five members of +the Institute, appointed by the First Consul, shall present to him +the plan of this division, which shall be submitted to the +approbation of the government. + +II. The first class, shall be formed of the ten sections, which at +present compose the first class of the Institute, of a new section of +geography and navigation, and of eight foreign associates. + +These sections shall be composed and distinguished as follows: + + MATHEMATICAL SCIENCES. + + + Geometry six members. + Mechanics six ditto. + Astronomy six ditto. + Geography and Navigation three ditto. + General Physics six ditto. + + PHYSICAL SCIENCES. + + Chemistry six ditto. + Mineralogy six ditto. + Botany six ditto. + Rural Economy and the Veterinary Art six ditto. + Anatomy and Zoology six ditto. + Medicine and Surgery six ditto. + +The first class shall name, with the approbation of the Chief Consul, +two perpetual secretaries; the one for the mathematical sciences; the +other, for the physical. The perpetual secretaries shall be members +of the class, but shall make no part of any section. + +The first class may elect six of its members from among the other +classes of the Institute. It may name a hundred correspondents, taken +from among the learned men of the nation, and those of foreign +countries. + +III. The second class shall be composed of forty members. + +It is particularly charged with the compilation and improvement of +the dictionary of the French tongue. With respect to language, it +shall examine important works of literature, history, and sciences. +The collection of its critical observations shall be published at +least four times a year. + +It shall appoint from its own members, and with the approbation of +the First Consul, a perpetual secretary, who shall continue to make +one of the sixty members of whom the class is composed. + +It may elect twelve of its members from among those of the other +classes of the Institute. + +IV. The third class shall be composed of forty members and eight +foreign associates. + +The learned languages, antiquities and ornaments, history, and all +the moral and political sciences in as far as they relate to history, +shall be the objects of its researches and labours. It shall +particularly endeavour to enrich French literature with the works of +Greek, Latin, and Oriental authors, which have not yet been +translated. + +It shall employ itself in the continuation of diplomatic collections. + +With the approbation of the First Consul, it shall name from its own +members a perpetual secretary, who shall make one of the forty +members of whom the class is composed. + +It may elect nine of its members from among those of the classes of +the Institute. + +It may name sixty national or foreign correspondents. + +V. The fourth class shall be composed of twenty-eight members and +eight foreign associates. They shall be divided into sections, named +and composed as follows: + + Painting ten members. + Sculpture six ditto. + Architecture six ditto. + Engraving three ditto. + Music (composition) three ditto. + +With the approbation of the First Consul, it shall appoint a +perpetual secretary, who shall be a member of the class, but shall +not make part of the sections. + +It may elect six of its members from among the other classes of the +Institute. + +It may name thirty-six national or foreign correspondents. + +VI. The associated foreign members shall have a deliberative vote +only for objects relating to sciences, literature, and arts. They +shall not make part of any section, and shall receive no salary. + +VII. The present associates of the Institute, scattered throughout +the Republic, shall make part of the one hundred and ninety-six +correspondents, attached to the classes of the sciences, +belles-lettres, and fine arts. + +The correspondents cannot assume the title of members of the +Institute. They shall drop that of correspondents, when they take up +their constant residence in Paris. + +VIII. The nominations to the vacancies shall be made by each of the +classes in which those vacancies shall happen to occur. The persons +elected shall be approved by the First Consul. + +IX. The members of the four classes shall have a right to attend +reciprocally the private sittings of each of them, and to read papers +there when they have made the request. + +They shall assemble four times a year as the body of the Institute, +in order to give to each other an account of their transactions. + +They shall elect in common the librarian and under-librarian, as well +as all the agents who belong in common to the Institute. + +Each class shall present for the approbation of the government the +particular statutes and regulations of its interior police. + +X. Each class shall hold every year a public sitting, at which the +other three shall assist. + +XI. The Institute shall receive annually, from the public treasury, +1500 francs for each of its members, not associates; 6000 francs for +each of its perpetual secretaries; and, for its expenses, a sum which +shall be determined on, every year, at the request of the Institute, +and comprised in the budget of the Minister of the Interior. + +XII. The Institute shall have an administrative commission, composed +of five members, two of the first class, and one of each of the other +three, appointed by their respective classes. + +This commission shall cause to be regulated in the general sittings, +prescribed in Art. IX, every thing relative to the administration, to +the general purposes of the Institute, and to the division of the +funds between the four classes. + +Each class shall afterwards regulate the employment of the funds +which shall have been assigned for its expenses, as well as every +thing that concerns the printing and publication of its memoirs. + +XIII. Every year, each class shall distribute prizes, the number and +value of which shall be regulated as follows: + +The first class, a prize of 3000 francs. + +The second and third classes, each a prize of 1500 francs. + +And the fourth class, great prizes of painting, sculpture, +architecture, and musical composition. Those who shall have gained +one of these four great prizes, shall be sent to Rome, and maintained +at the expense of the government. + +XIV. The Minister of the Interior is charged with the execution of +the present decree, which shall be inserted in the Bulletin of the +Laws. + +[Footnote 1: Referred to in Letter XLV, Vol. II of this work.] + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +On ushering into the world a literary production, custom has +established that its parent should give some account of his +offspring. Indeed, this becomes the more necessary at the present +moment, as the short-lived peace, which gave birth to the following +sheets, had already ceased before they were entirely printed; and the +war in which England and France are now engaged, is of a nature +calculated not only to rouse all the energy and ancient spirit of my +countrymen, but also to revive their prejudices, and inflame their +passions, in a degree proportionate to the enemy's boastful and +provoking menace. + +I therefore premise that those who may be tempted to take up this +publication, merely with a view of seeking aliment for their enmity, +will, in more respects than one, probably find themselves +disappointed. The two nations were not rivals in arms, but in the +arts and sciences, at the time these letters were written, and +committed to the press; consequently, they have no relation whatever +to the present contest. Nevertheless, as they refer to subjects which +manifest the indefatigable activity of the French in the +accomplishment of any grand object, such parts may, perhaps, furnish +hints that may not be altogether unimportant at this momentous +crisis. + +The plan most generally adhered to throughout this work, being +detailed in LETTER V, a repetition of it here would be superfluous; +and the principal matters to which the work itself relates, are +specified in the title. I now come to the point. + +A long residence in France, and particularly in the capital, having +afforded me an opportunity of becoming tolerably well acquainted with +its state before the revolution, my curiosity was strongly excited to +ascertain the changes which that political phenomenon might have +effected. I accordingly availed myself of the earliest dawn of peace +to cross the water, and visit Paris. Since I had left that city in +1789-90, a powerful monarchy, established on a possession of fourteen +centuries, and on that sort of national prosperity which seemed to +challenge the approbation of future ages, had been destroyed by the +force of opinion which, like, a subterraneous fire, consumed its very +foundations, and plunged the nation into a sea of troubles, in which +it was, for several years, tossed about, amid the wreck of its +greatness. + +This is a phenomenon of which antiquity affords no parallel; and it +has produced a rapid succession of events so extraordinary as almost +to exceed belief. + +It is not the crimes to which it has given birth that will be thought +improbable: the history of revolutions, as well ancient as modern, +furnishes but too many examples of them; and few have been committed, +the traces of which are not to be found in the countries where the +imagination of the multitude has been exalted by strong and new +ideas, respecting Liberty and Equality. But what posterity will find +difficult to believe, is the agitation of men's minds, and the +effervescence of the passions, carried to such a pitch, as to stamp +the French revolution with a character bordering on the marvellous +--Yes; posterity will have reason to be astonished at the facility +with which the human mind can be modified and made to pass from one +extreme to another; at the suddenness, in short, with which the ideas +and manners of the French were changed; so powerful, on the one hand, +is the ascendency of certain imaginations; and, on the other, so +great is the weakness of the vulgar! + +It is in the recollection of most persons, that the agitation of the +public mind in France was such, for a while, that, after having +overthrown the monarchy and its supports; rendered private property +insecure; and destroyed individual freedom; it threatened to invade +foreign countries, at the same time pushing before it Liberty, that +first blessing of man, when it is founded on laws, and the most +dangerous of chimeras, when it is without rule or restraint. + +The greater part of the causes which excited this general commotion, +existed before the assembly of the States-General in 1789. It is +therefore important to take a mental view of the moral and political +situation of France at that period, and to follow, in imagination at +least, the chain of ideas, passions, and errors, which, having +dissolved the ties of society, and worn out the springs of +government, led the nation by gigantic strides into the most complete +anarchy. + +Without enumerating the different authorities which successively +ruled in France after the fall of the throne, it appears no less +essential to remind the reader that, in this general disorganization, +the inhabitants themselves, though breathing the same air, scarcely +knew that they belonged to the same nation. The altars overthrown; +all the ancient institutions annihilated; new festivals and +ceremonies introduced; factious demagogues honoured with an +apotheosis; their busts exposed to public veneration; men and cities +changing names; a portion of the people infected with atheism, and +disguised in the livery of guilt and folly; all this, and more, +exercised the reflection of the well-disposed in a manner the most +painful. In a word, though France was peopled with the same +individuals, it seemed inhabited by a new nation, entirely different +from the old one in its government, its creed, its principles, its +manners, and even its customs. + +War itself assumed a new face. Every thing relating to it became +extraordinary: the number of the combatants, the manner of recruiting +the armies, and the means of providing supplies for them; the +manufacture of powder, cannon, and muskets; the ardour, impetuosity, +and forced marches of the troops; their extortions, their successes, +and their reverses; the choice of the generals, and the superior +talents of some of them, together with the springs, by which these +enormous bodies of armed men were moved and directed, were equally +new and astonishing. + +History tells us that in poor countries, where nothing inflames +cupidity and ambition, the love alone of the public good causes +changes to be tried in the government; and that those changes derange +not the ordinary course of society; whereas, among rich nations, +corrupted by luxury, revolutions are always effected through secret +motives of jealousy and interest; because there are great places to +be usurped, and great fortunes to be invaded. In France, the +revolution covered the country with ruins, tears, and blood, because +means were not to be found to moderate in the people that +_revolutionary spirit_ which parches, in the bud, the promised fruits +of liberty, when its violence is not repressed. + +Few persons were capable of keeping pace with the rapid progress of +the revolution. Those who remained behind were considered as guilty +of desertion. The authors of the first constitution were accused of +being _royalists_; the old partisans of republicanism were punished +as _moderates_; the land-owners, as _aristocrates_; the monied men, +as _corrupters_; the bankers and financiers, as _blood-suckers_; the +shop-keepers, as _promoters of famine_; and the newsmongers, as +_alarmists_. The factious themselves, in short, were alternately +proscribed, as soon as they ceased to belong to the ruling faction. + +In this state of things, society became a prey to the most baneful +passions. Mistrust entered every heart; friendship had no attraction; +relationship, no tie; and men's minds, hardened by the habit of +misfortune, or overwhelmed by fear, no longer opened to pity. + +Terror compressed every imagination; and the revolutionary +government, exercising it to its fullest extent, struck off a +prodigious number of heads, filled the prisons with victims, and +continued to corrupt the morals of the nation by staining it with +crimes. + +But all things have an end. The tyrants fell; the dungeons were +thrown open; numberless victims emerged from them; and France seemed +to recover new life; but still bewildered by the _revolutionary +spirit_, wasted by the concealed poison of anarchy, exhausted by her +innumerable sacrifices, and almost paralyzed by her own convulsions, +she made but impotent efforts for the enjoyment of liberty and +justice. Taxes became more burdensome; commerce was annihilated; +industry, without aliment; paper-money, without value; and specie, +without circulation. However, while the French nation was degraded at +home by this series of evils, it was respected abroad through the +rare merit of some of its generals, the splendour of its victories, +and the bravery of its soldiers. + +During these transactions, there was formed in the public mind that +moral resistance which destroys not governments by violence, but +undermines them. The intestine commotions were increasing; the +conquests of the French were invaded; their enemies were already on +their frontiers; and the division which had broken out between the +Directory and the Legislative Body, again threatened France with a +total dissolution, when a man of extraordinary character and talents +had the boldness to seize the reins of authority, and stop the +further progress of the revolution.[1] Taking at the full the tide +which leads on to fortune, he at once changed the face of affairs, +not only within the limits of the Republic, but throughout Europe. +Yet, after all their triumphs, the French have the mortification to +have failed in gaining that for which they first took up arms, and +for which they have maintained so long and so obstinate a struggle. + +When a strong mound has been broken down, the waters whose amassed +volume it opposed, rush forward, and, in their impetuous course, +spread afar terror and devastation. On visiting the scene where this +has occurred, we naturally cast our eyes in every direction, to +discover the mischief which they have occasioned by their irruption; +so, then, on reaching the grand theatre of the French revolution, did +I look about for the traces of the havock it had left behind; but, +like a river which had regained its level, and flowed again in its +natural bed, this political torrent had subsided, and its ravages +were repaired in a manner the most surprising. + +However, at the particular request of an estimable friend, I have +endeavoured to draw the contrast which, in 1789-90 and 1801-2, Paris +presented to the eye of an impartial observer. In this arduous +attempt I have not the vanity to flatter myself that I have been +successful, though I have not hesitated to lay under contribution +every authority likely to promote my object. The state of the French +capital, before the revolution, I have delineated from the notes I +had myself collected on the spot, and for which purpose I was, at +that time, under the necessity of consulting almost as many books as +Don Quixote read on knight-errantry; but the authors from whom I have +chiefly borrowed, are St. FOIX, MERCIER, DULAURE, PUJOULX, and BIOT. + +My invariable aim has been to relate, _sine ira nec studio_, such +facts and circumstances as have come to my knowledge, and to render +to every one that justice which I should claim for myself. After a +revolution which has trenched on so many opposite interests, the +reader cannot be surprised, if information, derived from such a +variety of sources, should sometimes seem to bear the character of +party-spirit. Should this appear _on the face of the record_, I can +only say that I have avoided entering into politics, in order that no +bias of that sort might lead me to discolour or distort the truths I +have had occasion to state; and I have totally rejected those +communications which, from their tone of bitterness, personality, and +virulence, might be incompatible with the general tenour of an +impartial production. + +Till the joint approbation of some competent judges, who visited the +French capital after having perused, in manuscript, several of these +letters, had stamped on them a comparative degree of value, no one +could think more lightly of them than the author. Urged repeatedly to +produce them to the public, I have yielded with reluctance, and in +the fullest confidence that, notwithstanding the recent change of +circumstances, a liberal construction will be put on my sentiments +and motives. I have taken care that my account of the national +establishments in France should be perfectly correct; and, in fact, I +have been favoured with the principal information it contains by +their respective directors. In regard to the other topics on which I +have touched, I have not failed to consult the best authorities, even +in matters, which, however trifling in themselves, acquire a relative +importance, from being illustrative of some of the many-coloured +effects of a revolution, which has humbled the pride of many, +deranged the calculations of all, disappointed the hopes of not a +few, and deceived those even by whom it had been engendered and +conducted. + +Yet, whatever pains I have taken to be strictly impartial, it cannot +be denied that, in publishing a work of this description at a time +when the self-love of most men is mortified, and their resentment +awakened, I run no small risk of displeasing all parties, because I +attach myself to none, but find them all more or less deserving of +censure. Without descending either to flattery or calumny, I speak +both well and ill of the French, because I copy nature, and neither +draw an imaginary portrait, nor write a systematic narrative. If I +have occasionally given vent to my indignation in glancing at the +excesses of the revolution, I have not withheld my tribute of +applause from those institutions, which, being calculated to benefit +mankind by the gratuitous diffusion of knowledge, would reflect +honour on any nation. In other respects, I have not been unmindful of +that excellent precept of TACITUS, in which he observes that "The +principal duty of the historian is to rescue from oblivion virtuous +actions, and to make bad men dread infamy and posterity for what they +have said and done."[2] + +In stating facts, it is frequently necessary to support them by a +relation of particular circumstances, which may corroborate them in +an unquestionable manner. Feeling this truth, I have some times +introduced myself on my canvass, merely to shew that I am not an +ideal traveller. I mean one of those pleasant fellows who travel post +in their elbow-chair, sail round the world on a map suspended to one +side of their room, cross the seas with a pocket-compass lying on +their table, experience a shipwreck by their fireside, make their +escape when it scorches their shins, and land on a desert island in +their _robe de chambre_ and slippers. + +I have, therefore, here and there mentioned names, time, and place, +to prove that, _bonâ fide_, I went to Paris immediately after the +ratification of the preliminary treaty. To banish uniformity in my +description of that metropolis, I have, as much as possible, varied +my subjects. Fashions, sciences, absurdities, anecdotes, education, +fêtes, useful arts, places of amusement, music, learned and +scientific institutions, inventions, public buildings, industry, +agriculture, &c. &c. &c. being all jumbled together in my brain, I +have thence drawn them, like tickets from a lottery; and it will not, +I trust, be deemed presumptuous in me to indulge a hope that, in +proportion to the blanks, there will be found no inadequate number of +prizes. + +I have pointed out the immense advantages which France is likely to +derive from her Schools for Public Services, and other establishments +of striking utility, such as the _Dépôt de la Guerre_ and the _Dépôt +de la Marine_, in order that the British government may be prompted +to form institutions, which, if not exactly similar, may at least +answer the same purpose. Instead of copying the French in objects of +fickleness and frivolity, why not borrow from them what is really +deserving of imitation? + +It remains for me to observe, by way of stimulating the ambition of +British genius, that, in France, the arts and sciences are now making +a rapid and simultaneous progress; first, because the revolution has +made them popular in that country; and, secondly, because they are +daily connected by new ties, which, in a great measure, render them +inseparable. Facts are there recurred to, less with a view to draw +from them immediate applications than to develop the truths resulting +from them. The first step is from these facts to their most simple +consequences, which are little more than bare assertions. From these +the _savans_ proceed to others more minute, till, at length, by +imperceptible degrees, they arrive at the most abstracted +generalities. With them, method is an induction incessantly verified +by experiment. Whence, it gives to human intelligence, not wings +which lead it astray, but reins which guide it. United by this common +philosophy, the sciences and arts in France advance together; and the +progress made by one of them serves to promote that of the rest. +There, the men who profess them, considering that their knowledge +belongs not to themselves alone, not to their country only, but to +all mankind, are continually striving to increase the mass of public +knowledge. This they regard as a real duty, which they are proud to +discharge; thus treading in the steps of the most memorable men of +past ages. + +Then, while the more unlearned and unskilled among us are emulating +the patriotic enthusiasm of the French in volunteering, as they did, +to resist invasion, let our men of science and genius exert +themselves not to be surpassed by the industrious _savans_ and +artists of that nation; but let them act on the principle inculcated +by the following sublime idea of our illustrious countryman, the +founder of modern philosophy. "It may not be amiss," says BACON, "to +point out three different kinds, and, as it were, degrees of +ambition. The first, that of those who desire to enhance, in their +own country, the power they arrogate to themselves: this kind of +ambition is both vulgar and degenerate. The second, that of those who +endeavour to extend the power and domination of their country, over +the whole of the human race: in this kind there is certainly a +greater dignity, though; at the same time, no less a share of +cupidity. But should any one strive to restore and extend the power +and domination of mankind over the universality of things, +unquestionably such an ambition, (if it can be so denominated) would +be more reasonable and dignified than the others. Now, the empire of +man, over things, has its foundation exclusively in the arts and +sciences; for it is only by an obedience to her laws, that Nature can +be commanded."[3] + +LONDON, June 10, 1803. + +[Footnote 1: Of two things, we are left to believe one. BONAPARTE +either was or was not invited to put himself at the head of the +government of France. It is not probable that the Directory should +send for him from Egypt, in order to say to him: "we are fools and +drivelers, unfit to conduct the affairs of the nation; so turn us out +of office, and seat yourself in our place." Nevertheless, they might +have hoped to preserve their tottering authority through his support. +Be this as it may, there it something so singular in the good fortune +which has attended BONAPARTE from the period of his quitting +Alexandria, that, were it not known for truth, it might well be taken +for fiction. Sailing from the road of Aboukir on the 24th of August, +1799, he eludes the vigilance of the English cruisers, and lands at +Frejus in France on the 14th of October following, the forty-seventh +day after his departure from Egypt. On his arrival in Paris, so far +from giving an account of his conduct to the Directory, he turns his +back on them; accepts the proposition made to him, from another +quarter, to effect a change in the government; on the 9th of +November, carries it into execution; and, profiting by the _popularis +aura_, fixes himself at the head of the State, at the same time +kicking down the ladder by which he climbed to power. To achieve all +this with such promptitude and energy, most assuredly required a mind +of no common texture; nor can any one deny that ambition would have +done but little towards its accomplishment, had it not been seconded +by extraordinary firmness.] + +[Footnote 2: _"Præcipuum munus annalium reor, ne virtutes sileantur, +utque praxis dictis factisque ex posteritate et infamiâ metus sit."_] + +[Footnote 3: "_Præterca non abs refuerit, tria hominum ambitionis +genera et quasi gradus distinguere. Primum eorum qui propriam +potentiam in patria sua amplificare cupiunt; quod genus vulgare est +et degener. Secundum eorum, qui patriæ potentiam et imperium inter +humanum genus amplificare nituntur; illud plus certe habet +dignitatis, cupiditatis haud minus. Quod si quis humani generis +ipsius potentiam et imperium in rerum univertitatem instaurare et +amplificare conetur ea procul dubio ambitio (si modo ita cocanda sit) +reliquls et sanior est et augustior. Hominis autem imperium in res, +in solis artibus et scientiis ponitur: naturæ enim non imperatur, +nisi parendo_." Nov. org. scientiarum. Aphor. CXXIX. (Vol. VIII. page +72, new edition of BACON'S works. London, printed 1803.)] + + + +A SKETCH OF PARIS, &c. &c. + +LETTER I. + +_Calais, October 16, 1801._ + +MY DEAR FRIEND, + +Had you not made it a particular request that I would give you the +earliest account of my debarkation in France, I should, probably, not +have been tempted to write to you till I reached Paris. I well know +the great stress which you lay on first impressions; but what little +I have now to communicate will poorly gratify your expectation. + +From the date of this letter, you will perceive that, since we parted +yesterday, I have not been dilatory in my motions. No sooner had a +messenger from the Alien-Office brought me the promised passport, or +rather his Majesty's licence, permitting me to embark for France, +than I proceeded on my journey. + +In nine hours I reached Dover, and, being authorized by a proper +introduction, immediately applied to Mr. Mantell, the agent for +prisoners of war, cartels, &c. for a passage across the water. An +English flag of truce was then in the harbour, waiting only for +government dispatches; and I found that, if I could get my baggage +visited in time, I might avail myself of the opportunity of crossing +the sea in this vessel. On having recourse to the collector of the +customs, I succeeded in my wish: the dispatches arriving shortly +after, mid my baggage being already shipped, I stepped off the quay +into the Nancy, on board of which I was the only passenger. A +propitious breeze sprang up at the moment, and, in less than three +hours, wafted me to Calais pier. + +By the person who carried the dispatches to Citizen Mengaud, the +commissary for this department (_Pas de Calais_), I sent a card with +my name and rank, requesting permission to land and deliver to him a +letter from M. Otto. This step was indispensable: the vessel which +brought me was, I find, the first British flag of truce that has been +suffered to enter the harbour, with the exception of the Prince of +Wales packet, now waiting here for the return of a king's messenger +from Paris; and her captain even has not yet been permitted to go on +shore. It therefore appears that I shall be the first Englishman, not +in an official character, who has set foot on French ground since the +ratification of the preliminary treaty. + +The pier was presently crowded with people gazing at our vessel, as +if she presented a spectacle perfectly novel: but, except the +tri-coloured cockade in the hats of the military, I could not observe +the smallest difference in their general appearance. Instead of crops +and round wigs, which I expected to see in universal vogue, here were +full as many powdered heads and long queues as before the revolution. +Frenchmen, in general, will, I am persuaded, ever be Frenchmen in +their dress, which, in my opinion, can never be _revolutionized_, +either by precept or example. The _citoyens_, as far as I am yet able +to judge, most certainly have not fattened by warfare more than JOHN +BULL: their visages are as sallow and as thin as formerly, though +their persons are not quite so meagre as they are pourtrayed by +Hogarth. + +The prospect of peace, however, seemed to have produced an +exhilarating effect on all ranks; satisfaction appeared on every +countenance. According to custom, a host of inkeepers' domestics +boarded the vessel, each vaunting the superiority of his master's +accommodations. My old landlord Ducrocq presenting himself to +congratulate me on my arrival, soon freed me from their +importunities, and I, of course, decided in favour of the _Lion +d'Argent_. + +Part of the _Boulogne_ flotilla was lying in the harbour. +Independently of the decks of the gunboats being full of soldiers, +with very few sailors intermixed, playing at different games of +chance, not a plank, not a log, or piece of timber, was there on the +quay but was also covered with similar parties. This then accounts +for that rage for gambling, which has carried to such desperate +lengths those among them whom the fate of war has lodged in our +prisons. + +My attention was soon diverted from this scene, by a polite answer +from the commissary, inviting me to his house. I instantly +disembarked to wait on him; my letter containing nothing more than an +introduction, accompanied by a request that I might be furnished with +a passport to enable me to proceed to Paris without delay, Citizen +Mengaud dispatched a proper person to attend me to the town-hall, +where the passports are made out, and signed by the mayor; though +they are not delivered till they have also received the commissary's +signature. However, to lose no time, while one of the clerks was +drawing my picture, or, in other words, taking down a minute +description of my person, I sent my keys to the custom-house, in +order that my baggage might be examined. + +By what conveyance I was to proceed to Paris was the next point to be +settled; and this has brought me to the _Lion d'Argent_. + +Among other vehicles, Ducrocq has, in his _remise_, an +apparently-good _cabriolet de voyage_, belonging to one of his Paris +correspondents; but, on account of the wretched state of the roads, +he begs me to allow him time to send for his coachmaker, to examine +it scrupulously, that I may not be detained by the way, from any +accident happening to the carriage. + +I was just on the point of concluding my letter, when a French naval +officer, who was on the pier when I landed, introduced himself to me, +to know whether I would do him the favour to accommodate him with a +place in the cabriolet under examination. I liked my new friend's +appearance and manner too well not to accede to his proposal. + +The carriage is reported to be in good condition. I shall therefore +send my servant on before as a courier, instead of taking him with me +as an inside passenger. As we shall travel night and day, and the +post-horses will be in readiness at every stage, we may, I am told, +expect to reach Paris in about forty-two hours. Adieu; my next will +be from the _great_ city. + + + +LETTER II. + +_Paris, October 19, 1801._ + +Here I am safe arrived; that is, without any broken bones; though my +arms, knees, and head are finely pummelled by the jolting of the +carriage. Well might Ducrocq say that the roads were bad! In several +places, they are not passable without danger--Indeed, the government +is so fully aware of this, that an inspector has been dispatched to +direct immediate repairs to be made against the arrival of the +English ambassador; and, in some _communes_, the people are at work +by torch-light. With this exception, my journey was exceedingly +pleasant. At ten o'clock the first night, we reached _Montreuil_, +where we supped; the next day we breakfasted at _Abbeville_, dined at +_Amiens_, and supped that evening at _Clermont_. + +The road between _Calais_ and _Paris_ is too well known to interest +by description. Most of the abbeys and monasteries, which present +themselves to the eye of the traveller, have either been converted +into hospitals or manufactories. Few there are, I believe, who will +deny that this change is for the better. A receptacle for the relief +of suffering indigence conveys a consolatory idea to the mind of the +friend of human nature; while the lover of industry cannot but +approve of an establishment which, while it enriches a State, affords +employ to the needy and diligent. This, unquestionably, is no bad +appropriation of these buildings, which, when inhabited by monks, +were, for the most part, no more than an asylum of sloth, hypocrisy, +pride, and ignorance. + +The weather was fine, which contributed not a little to display the +country to greater advantage; but the improvements recently made in +agriculture are too striking to escape the notice of the most +inattentive observer. The open plains and rising grounds of +_ci-devant Picardy_ which, from ten to fifteen years ago, I have +frequently seen, in this season, mostly lying fallow, and presenting +the aspect of one wide, neglected waste, are now all well cultivated, +and chiefly laid down in corn; and the corn, in general, seems to +have been sown with more than common attention. + +My fellow-traveller, who was a _lieutenant de vaisseau_, belonging to +_Latouche Tréville's_ flotilla, proved a very agreeable companion, +and extremely well-informed. This officer positively denied the +circumstance of any of their gun-boats being moored with chains +during our last attack. While he did ample justice to the bravery of +our people, he censured the manner in which it had been exerted. The +divisions of boats arriving separately, he said, could not afford to +each other necessary support, and were thus exposed to certain +discomfiture. I made the best defence I possibly could; but truth +bears down all before it. + +The loss on the side of the French, my fellow-traveller declared, was +no more than seven men killed and forty-five wounded. Such of the +latter as were in a condition to undergo the fatigue of the ceremony, +were carried in triumphal procession through the streets of +_Boulogne_, where, after being harangued by the mayor, they were +rewarded with civic crowns from the hands of their fair +fellow-citizens. + +Early the second morning after our departure from _Calais_, we +reached the town of _St. Denis_, which, at one time since the +revolution, changed its name for that of _Françiade_. I never pass +through this place without calling to mind the persecution which poor +Abélard suffered from Adam, the abbot, for having dared to say, that +the body of _St. Denis_, first bishop of Paris, in 240, which had +been preserved in this abbey among the relics, was not that of the +areopagite, who died in 95. The ridiculous stories, imposed on the +credulity of the zealous catholics, respecting this wonderful saint, +have been exhibited in their proper light by Voltaire, as you may see +by consulting the _Questions sur l'Encyclopédie_, at the article +_Denis_. + +It is in every person's recollection that, in consequence of the +National Convention having decreed the abolition of royalty in +France, it was proposed to annihilate every vestige of it throughout +the country. But, probably, you are not aware of the thorough sweep +that was made among the sepultures in this abbey of _St. Denis_. + +The bodies of the kings, queens, princes, princesses, and celebrated +personages, who had been interred here for nearly fifteen hundred +years, were taken up, and literally reduced to ashes. Not a wreck was +left behind to make a relic. + +The remains of TURENNE alone were respected. All the other bodies, +together with the entrails or hearts, enclosed in separate urns, were +thrown into large pits, lined with a coat of quick lime: they were +then covered with the same substance; and the pits were afterwards +filled up with earth. Most of them, as may be supposed, were in a +state of complete putrescency; of some, the bones only remained, +though a few were in good preservation. + +The bodies of the consort of Charles I. Henrietta Maria of France, +daughter of Henry IV, who died in 1669, aged 60, and of their +daughter Henrietta Stuart, first wife of Monsieur, only brother to +Lewis XIV, who died in 1670, aged 26, both interred in the vault of +the Bourbons, were consumed in the general destruction. + +The execution of this decree was begun at _St. Denis_ on Saturday the +12th of October 1793, and completed on the 25th of the same month, in +presence of the municipality and several other persons. + +On the 12th of November following, all the treasure of _St. Denis_, +(shrines, relics, &c.) was removed: the whole was put into large +wooden chests, together with all the rich ornaments of the church, +consisting of chalices, pyxes, cups, copes, &c. The same day these +valuable articles were sent off, in great state, in waggons, +decorated for the purpose, to the National Convention. + +We left _St. Denis_ after a hasty breakfast; and, on reaching Paris, +I determined to drive to the residence of a man whom I had never +seen; but from whom I had little doubt of a welcome reception. I +accordingly alighted in the _Rue neuve St. Roch_, where I found +B----a, who perfectly answered the character given me of him by +M. S----i. + +You already know that, through the interest of my friend, Captain +O----y, I was so fortunate as to procure the exchange of B----a's +only son, a deserving youth, who had been taken prisoner at sea, and +languished two years in confinement in Portchester-Castle. + +Before I could introduce myself, one of young B----a's sisters +proclaimed my name, as if by inspiration; and I was instantly greeted +with the cordial embraces of the whole family. This scene made me at +once forget the fatigues of my journey; and, though I had not been in +bed for three successive nights, the agreeable sensations excited in +my mind, by the unaffected expression of gratitude, banished every +inclination to sleep. If honest B----a and his family felt themselves +obliged to me, I felt myself doubly and trebly obliged to Captain +O----y; for, to his kind exertion, was I indebted for the secret +enjoyment arising from the performance of a disinterested action. + +S----i was no sooner informed of my arrival, than he hastened to obey +the invitation to meet me at dinner, and, by his presence, enlivened +the family party. After spending a most agreeable day, I retired to a +temporary lodging, which B----a had procured me in the neighbourhood. +I shall remain in it no longer than till I can suit myself with +apartments in a private house, where I can be more retired, or at +least subject to less noise, than in a public hotel. + +Of the fifty-eight hours which I employed in performing my journey +hither from London, forty-four were spent on my way between Calais +and Paris; a distance that I have often travelled with ease in +thirty-six, when the roads were in tolerable repair. Considerable +delay too is at present occasioned by the erection of _barrières_, or +turnpike-bars, which did not exist before the revolution. At this +day, they are established throughout all the departments, and are an +insuperable impediment to expedition; for, at night, the +toll-gatherers are fast asleep, and the bars being secured, you are +obliged to wait patiently till these good citizens choose to rise +from their pillow. + +To counterbalance this inconvenience, you are not now plagued, as +formerly, by custom-house officers on the frontiers of _every_ +department. My baggage being once searched at _Calais_, experienced +no other visit; but, at the upper town of _Boulogne_, a sight of my +travelling passport was required; by mistake in the dark, I gave the +_commis_ a scrawl, put into my hands by Ducrocq, containing an +account of the best inns on the road. Would you believe that this +inadvertency detained us a considerable time, so extremely +inquisitive are they, at the present moment, respecting all papers? +At _Calais_, the custom-house officers even examined every piece of +paper used in the packing of my baggage. This scrutiny is not +particularly adopted towards Englishmen; but must, I understand, be +undergone by travellers of every country, on entering the territory +of the Republic. + +_P. S._ Lord Cornwallis is expected with impatience; and, at _St. +Denis_, an escort of dragoons of the 19th demi-brigade is in waiting +to attend him into Paris. + + + +LETTER III. + +_Paris, October 21, 1801._ + +On approaching this capital, my curiosity was excited in the highest +degree; and, as the carriage passed rapidly along from the +_Barrière_, through the _Porte St. Denis_, to the _Rue neuve St. +Roch_, my eyes wandered in all directions, anxiously seeking every +shade of distinction between _monarchical_ and _republican_ Paris. + +The first thing that attracted my attention, on entering the +_faubourg_, was the vast number of inscriptions placed, during the +revolution, on many of the principal houses; but more especially on +public buildings of every description. They are painted in large, +conspicuous letters; and the following is the most general style in +which they have been originally worded: + + "RÉPUBLIQUE FRANÇAISE, UNE ET INDIVISIBLE." + "LIBERTÉ, ÉGALITÉ, FRATERNITÉ, OU LA MORT." + +Since the exit of the French Nero, the last three words "_ou la +mort_" have been obliterated, but in few places are so completely +effaced as not to be still legible. In front of all the public +offices and national establishments, the tri-coloured flag is +triumphantly displayed; and almost every person you meet wears in his +hat the national cockade. + +The tumult which, ten or twelve years ago, rendered the streets of +Paris so noisy, so dirty, and at the same time so dangerous, is now +most sensibly diminished. Boileau's picture of them is no longer +just. No longer are seen those scenes of confusion occasioned by the +frequent stoppages of coaches and carts, and the contentions of the +vociferating drivers. You may now pass the longest and most crowded +thoroughfares, either on foot or otherwise, without obstacle or +inconvenience. The contrast is striking. + +Indeed, from what I have observed, I should presume that there is +not, at the present day, one tenth part of the number of carriages +which were in use here in 1780-90. Except on the domestics of foreign +ambassadors and foreigners, I have as yet noticed nothing like a +livery; and, in lieu of armorial bearings, every carriage, without +distinction, has a number painted on the pannel. However, if private +equipages are scarce, thence ensues more than one advantage; the +public are indemnified by an increased number of good hackney +coaches, chariots, and cabriolets; and, besides, as I have just +hinted, pedestrians are not only far less exposed to being +bespattered, but also to having their limbs fractured. + +Formerly, a _seigneur de la cour_ conceived himself justified in +suffering his coachman to drive at a mischievous rate; and in narrow, +crowded streets, where there is no foot-pavement, it was extremely +difficult for persons walking to escape the wheels of a great number +of carriages rattling along in this shameful manner. But he who +guided the chariot of a _ministre d'état_, considered it as a +necessary and distinctive mark of his master's pre-eminence to +_brûler le pavé_. This is so strictly true, that, before the +revolution, I have here witnessed repeated accidents of the most +serious nature, resulting from the exercise of this sort of +ministerial privilege: on one occasion particularly, I myself +narrowly escaped unhurt, when a decent, elderly woman was thrown +down, close by my feet, and had both her thighs broken through the +unfeeling wantonness of the coachman of the Baron de Breteuil, at +that time minister for the department of Paris. + +Owing to the salutary regulations of the police, the recurrence of +these accidents is now, in a great measure, prevented; and, as the +empirics say in their hand-bills: "_Prevention is better than cure._" + +But for these differences, a person who had not seen Paris for some +years, might, unless he were to direct his visits to particular +quarters, cross it from one extremity to the other, without remarking +any change to inform his mind, that here had been a revolution, or +rather that, for the last ten years, this city had been almost one +continual scene of revolutions. + +Bossnet, once preaching before Lewis XIV, exclaimed: "Kings die, and +so do kingdoms!" Could that great preacher rise from his grave into +the pulpit, and behold France without a king, and that kingdom, not +crumbled away, but enlarged, almost with the rapid accumulation of a +snow-ball, into an enormous mass of territory, under the title of +French Republic, what would he not have to say in a sermon? _Rien de +nouveau sous le ciel_, though an old proverb, would not now suit as a +maxim. This, in fact, seems the age of wonders. The league of +monarchs has ended by producing republics; while a republic has +raised a dukedom into a monarchy, and, by its vast preponderance, +completely overturned the balance of power. + +Not knowing when I may have an opportunity of sending this letter, I +shall defer to close it for the present, as I may possibly lengthen +it. But you must not expect much order in my narrations. I throw my +thoughts on paper just as they happen to present themselves, without +any studied arrangement. + +_October 21, in continuation_. + +When we have been for some time in the habit of corresponding with +strangers, we are apt to draw such inferences from their language and +style, as furnish us with the means of sketching an ideal portrait of +their person. This was the case with myself. + +Through the concurrence of the two governments, I had, as you know, +participated, in common with others, in the indulgence of being +permitted to correspond, occasionally, on subjects of literature with +several of the _savans_ and literati of France. Indeed, the principal +motive of my journey to Paris was to improve that sort of +acquaintance, by personal intercourse, so as to render it more +interesting to both parties. In my imagination, I had drawn a +full-length picture of most of my literary correspondents. I was now +anxious to see the originals, and compare the resemblance. + +Yesterday, having first paid my respects to Mr. M----y, the successor +to Captain C----s, as commissary for the maintenance and exchange of +British prisoners of war, and at present _Chargé d'affaires_ from our +court to the French Republic, I called on M. F----u, formerly +minister of the naval department, and at present counsellor of state, +and member of the National Institute, as well as of the board of +longitude. I then visited M. O----r, and afterwards M. +L------re, also members of the Institute, and both well known to our +proficients in natural history, by the works which each has published +in the different branches of that interesting science. + +In one only of my ideal portraits had I been very wide of the +likeness. However, without pretending to be a Lavater, I may affirm +that I should not have risked falling into a mistake like that +committed, on a somewhat similar occasion, by Voltaire. + +This colossus of French literature, having been for a long time in +correspondence with the great Frederic, became particularly anxious +to see that monarch. On his arrival in a village where the +head-quarters of the Prussian army were then established, Voltaire +inquired for the king's lodging: thither he paced with redoubled +speed; and, being directed to the upper part of the house, he hastily +crossed a large garret; he then found himself in a second, and was +just on the point of entering the third, when, on turning round, he +perceived in one of the comers of the room, a soldier, not overclean +in appearance, lying on a sorry bedstead. He went up and said to him +with eagerness: "Where's the king?"--"I am Frederic," replied the +soldier; and, sure enough, it was the monarch himself. + +I am now settled in my new apartments, which are situated in the most +centrical part of Paris. When you visit this capital, I would by all +means, recommend to you, should you intend to remain here a few +weeks, to get into private lodgings. + +I know of no article here so much augmented in price, within the last +ten years, as the apartments in all the hotels. After looking at +several of them in the _Rue de la Loi_, accompanied by a French +friend, who was so obliging as to take on himself all the trouble of +inquiry, while I remained a silent bystander, I had the curiosity to +go to the _Hôtel d'Angleterre_, in the _Rue des Filles St. Thomas_, +hot far from the _ci-devant Palais Royal_. The same apartments on the +first floor of this hotel which I occupied in 1789, happened to be +vacant. At that time I paid for them twelve louis d'or a month; the +furniture was then new; it is now much the worse for nearly eleven +years' wear; and the present landlord asked twenty-five louis a +month, and even refused twenty-two, if taken for three months +certain. The fact is, that all the landlords of ready-furnished +hotels in Paris seem to be buoyed up with an idea that, on the peace, +the English and foreigners of other nations will flock hither in such +numbers as to enable them to reap a certain and plentiful harvest. +Not but all lodgings are considerably increased in price, which is +ascribed to the increase of taxes. + +To find private lodgings, you have only to cast your eye on the daily +advertiser of Paris, called _Les Petites Affiches_. There I read a +description of my present quarters, which are newly fitted up in +every particular, and, I assure you, with no small degree of tasteful +fancy. My landlady, who is a milliner, and, for aught I know, a very +fashionable one, left not the smallest convenience to my conjecture, +but explained the particular use of every hole and corner in the most +significant manner, not even excepting the _boudoir_. + +This would be a most excellent situation for any one whose principal +object was to practise speaking French; for, on the right hand of the +_porte-cochère_ or gateway, (which, by the bye, is here reckoned an +indispensable appendage to a proper lodging), is the _magazin des +modes_, where my landlady presides over twenty damsels, many of whom, +though assiduously occupied in making caps and bonnets, would, I am +persuaded, find repartee for the most witty gallant. + + + +LETTER IV. + +_Paris, October 23, 1801._ + +Since my arrival, I have been so much engaged in paying and receiving +visits, that I really have not yet been able to take even a hasty +view of any of the grand sights introduced here since the revolution, + +On Wednesday I dined with M. S----i, whose new 8vo edition of Buffon +proceeds, I find, with becoming spirit. It is quite a journey to his +residence; for he lives in one of the most retired quarters of Paris, +However, I had no reason to repine at the distance, as the party was +exceedingly cheerful. Naturalists and literati were not wanting. + +Egypt was a subject that engrossed much of the conversation: it was +mentioned as a matter of regret that, during the dominion of the +French in that country, curiosity had not prompted the Institute, +established at Cairo, to open one of the pyramids, with a view of +ascertaining the object of the erection of those vast masses. At the +desert, we had luscious grapes as large as damsons, in bunches of +from three to five pounds in weight. They were of the species of the +famous _chasselas de Fontainebleau_, which are said to have sprung +from a stock of vine-plants, imported by Francis I. from the island +of Cyprus. These did not come from that town, but grew against the +naked wall in S----i's garden. From this you may form a judgment of +the climate of Paris. + +The persons with whom I have had any correspondence, respecting +literature, vie with each other in shewing me every mark of cordial +hospitality; and those to whom I have been introduced, are by no +means backward in friendly attention. All the lovers of science here +seem to rejoice that the communication, which has been so long +interrupted between the two countries, promises to be shortly +re-opened. + +After dining yesterday with Mr. M----y, the British minister, in +company with Mr. D----n, the member for Ilchester, we all three went +to an exhibition almost facing Mr. M----y's residence in the _Rue +St. Dominique_. This was the third time of its being open to the +public. As it is of a novel kind, some account of it may not be +uninteresting. In French, it is denominated + + THERMOLAMPES, + _or stoves which afford heat and light on an economical plan_. + +The author of this invention, for which a patent has been obtained, +is M. LEBON, an engineer of bridges and highways. The place of +exhibition was the ground floor of one of the large hotels in the +_Faubourg St. Germain_, on which was a suite of rooms, extremely +favourable for displaying the effect of this new method of lighting +and warming apartments. + +In lieu of fire or candle, on the chimney stood a large crystal +globe, in which appeared a bright and clear flame diffusing a very +agreeable heat; and on different pieces of furniture were placed +candlesticks with metal candles, from the top of each of which issued +a steady light, like that of a lamp burning with spirits of wine. +These different receptacles were supplied with inflammable gas by +means of tubes communicating with an apparatus underneath. By this +contrivance, in short, all the apartments were warmed very +comfortably, and illuminated in a brilliant manner. + +On consulting M. LEBON, he communicated to me the following +observations: "You may have remarked," said he, "in sitting before a +fire, that wood sometimes burns without flame, but with much smoke, +and then you experience little heat, sometimes with flame, but with +little smoke, and then you find much warmth. You may have remarked +too, that ill-made charcoal emits smoke; it is, on that account, +susceptible of flaming again; and the characteristic difference +between wood and charcoal is, that the latter has lost, together with +its smoke, the principle and aliment of flame, without which you +obtain but little heat. Experience next informs us, that this portion +of smoke, the aliment of flame, is not an oily vapour condensable by +cooling, but a gas, a permanent air, which may be washed, purified, +conducted, distributed, and afterwards turned into flame at any +distance from the hearth. + +"It is almost needless," continued he, "to point out the formation of +verdigrise, white lead, and a quantity of other operations, in which +acetous acid is employed. I shall only remark that it is this +pyroligneous acid which penetrates smoked meat and fish, that it has +an effect on leather which it hardens, and that _thermolampes_ are +likely to render tanning-mills unnecessary, by furnishing the tan +without further trouble. But to return to the aëriform principle. + +"This aliment of flame is deprived of those humid vapours, so +perceptible and so disagreeable to the organs of sight and smell. +Purified to a perfect transparency, it floats in the state of cold +air, and suffers itself to be directed by the smallest and most +fragil pipes. Chimnies of an inch square, made in the thickness of +the plaster of ceilings or walls, tubes even of gummed silk would +answer this purpose. The end alone of the tube, which, by bringing +the inflammable gas into contact with the atmospheric air, allows it +to catch fire, and on which the flame reposes, ought to be of metal. + +"By a distribution so easy to be established, a single stove may +supply the place of all the chimnies of a house. Every where +inflammable air is ready to diffuse immediately heat and light of the +most glowing or most mild nature, simultaneously or separately, +according to your wishes. In the twinkling of an eye, you may conduct +the flame from one room to another; an advantage equally convenient +and economical, and which can never be obtained with our common +stoves and chimnies. No sparks, no charcoal, no soot, to trouble you; +no ashes, no wood, to soil your apartments. By night, as well as by +day, you can have a fire in your room, without a servant being +obliged to look after it. Nothing in the _thermolampes_, not even the +smallest portion of inflammable air, can escape combustion; while in +our chimnies, torrents evaporate, and even carry off with them the +greater part of the heat produced. + +"The advantage of being able to purify and proportion, in some +measure, the principles of the gas which feeds the flame is," said M. +LEBON, "set forth in the clearest manner. But this flame is so +subjected to our caprice, that even to tranquilize the imagination, +it suffers itself to be confined in a crystal globe, which is never +tarnished, and thus presents a filter pervious to light and heat. A +part of the tube that conducts the inflammable air, carries off, out +of doors, the produce of this combustion, which, nevertheless, +according to the experiments of modern chymists, can scarcely be any +thing more than an aqueous vapour. + +"Who cannot but be fond of having recourse to a flame so subservient? +It will dress your victuals, which, as well as your cooks, will not +be exposed to the vapour of charcoal; it will warm again those dishes +on your table; dry your linen; heat your oven, and the water for your +baths or your washing, with every economical advantage that can be +wished. No moist or black vapours; no ashes, no breaze, to make a +dirt, or oppose the communication of heat; no useless loss of +caloric; you may, by shutting an opening, which is no longer +necessary for placing the wood in your oven, compress and coerce the +torrents of heat that were escaping from it. + +"It may easily be conceived, that an inflammable principle so docile +and so active may be made to yield the most magnificent +illuminations. Streams of fire finely drawn out, the duration, +colour, and form of which may be varied at pleasure, the motion of +suns and turning-columns, must produce an effect no less agreeable +than brilliant." Indeed, this effect was exhibited on the garden +façade of M. LEBON'S residence. + +"Wood," concluded he, "yields in condensable vapours two thirds of +its weight; those vapours may therefore be employed to produce the +effects of our steam-engines, and it is needless to borrow this +succour from foreign water." + +_P. S._. On the 1st of last Vendémiaire, (23rd of September), the +government presented to the Chief Consul a sword, whose hilt was +adorned with fourteen diamonds, the largest of which, called the +_Regent_, from its having been purchased by the Duke of Orleans, when +Regent, weighs 184 carats. This is the celebrated _Pitt_ diamond, of +which we have heard so much: but its weight is exceeded by that of +the diamond purchased by the late empress of Russia, which weighs 194 +carats; not to speak of the more famous diamond, in possession of the +Great Mogul, which is said to weigh 280 carats. + + + +LETTER V. + +_Paris, October 24, 1801._ + +Last night I received yours of the 20th ult. and as Mr. M----y +purposes to send off a dispatch this morning, and will do me the +favour to forward this, with my former letters, I hasten to write you +a few lines. + +I scarcely need assure you, my dear friend, that I will, with +pleasure, communicate to you my remarks on this great city and its +inhabitants, and describe to you, as far as I am able, the principal +curiosities which it contains, particularizing, as you desire, those +recently placed here by the chance of war; and giving you a succinct, +historical account of the most remarkable national establishments and +public buildings. But to pass in review the present state of the +_arts, sciences, literature, manners, &c. &c._ in this capital, and +contrast it with that which existed before the revolution, is a task +indeed; and far more, I fear, than it will be in my power to +accomplish. + +However, if you will be content to gather my observations as they +occur; to listen to my reflections, while the impression of the +different scenes which produced them, is still warm in my mind; in +short, to take a faithful sketch, in lieu of a finished picture, I +will do the best I can for your satisfaction. + +Relying on your indulgence, you shall know the life I lead: I will, +as it were, take you by the arm, and, wherever I go, you shall be my +companion. Perhaps, by pursuing this plan, you will not, at the +expiration of three or four months, think your time unprofitably +spent. Aided by the experience acquired by having occasionally +resided here, for several months together, before the revolution, it +will be my endeavour to make you as well acquainted with Paris, as I +shall then hope to be myself. For this purpose, I will lay under +contribution every authority, both written and oral, worthy of being +consulted. + + + +LETTER VI + +_Paris, October 26, 1801._ + +From particular passages in your letter, I clearly perceive your +anxiety to be introduced among those valuable antiques which now +adorn the banks of the Seine. On that account, I determined to +postpone all other matters, and pay my first visit to the CENTRAL +MUSEUM OF THE ARTS, established in the + +LOUVRE. + +But, before, we enter the interior of this building, it may not be +amiss to give you some account of its construction, and describe to +you its exterior beauties. + +The origin of this palace, as well as the etymology of its name, is +lost in the darkness of time. It is certain, however, that it +existed, under the appellation of _Louvre_, in the reign of Philip +Augustus, who surrounded it with ditches and towers, and made it a +fortress. The great tower of the _Louvre_, celebrated in history, was +insulated, and built in the middle of the court. All the great +feudatories of the crown derived their tenure from this tower, and +came hither to swear allegiance and pay homage. "It was," says St. +Foix, "a prison previously prepared for them, if they violated their +oaths."[1] Three Counts of Flanders were confined in it at different +periods. + +The _Louvre_, far from being cheerful from its construction, received +also from this enormous tower a melancholy and terrifying aspect +which rendered it unworthy of being a royal residence. Charles V. +endeavoured to enliven and embellish this gloomy abode, and made it +tolerably commodious for those times. Several foreign monarchs +successively lodged in it; such as Manuel, emperor of Constantinople; +Sigismund, emperor of Germany; and the emperor Charles the Fifth. + +This large tower of the _Louvre_, which had, at different periods, +served as a palace to the kings of France, as a prison to the great +lords, and as a treasury to the state, was at length taken down in +1528. + +The _Tower of the Library_ was famous, among several others, because +it contained that of Charles V. the most considerable one of the +time, and in which the number of volumes amounted to nine hundred. + +OLD LOUVRE + +The part of this palace which, at the present day, is called the _Old +Louvre_, was begun under Francis I. from the plan of PIERRE LESCOT, +abbot of Clugny; and the sculpture was executed by JEAN GOUGEON, +whose minute correctness is particularly remarkable in the festoons +of the frieze of the second order, and in the devices emblematic of +the amours of Henry II. This edifice, though finished, was not +inhabited during the reign of that king, but it was by his son +Charles IX. + +Under him, the _Louvre_ became the bloody theatre of treacheries and +massacres which time will never efface from the memory of mankind, +and which, till the merciless reign of Robespierre, were unexampled +in the history of this country. I mean the horrors of St. +Bartholemew's day. + +While the alarmed citizens were swimming across the river to escape +from death, Charles IX. from a window of this palace, was firing at +them with his arquebuse. During that period of the revolution, when +all means were employed to excite and strengthen the enmity of the +people against their kings, this act of atrocity was called to their +mind by an inscription placed under the very window, which looks on +the _Quai du Louvre_. + +Indeed, this instance of Charles's barbarity is fully corroborated by +historians. "When it was day-light," says Brantome, "the king peeped +out of his chamber-window, and seeing some people in the _Faubourg +St. Germain_ moving about and running away, he took a large arquebuse +which he had ready at hand, and, calling out incessantly: _Kill, +kill!_ fired a great many shots at them, but in vain; for the piece +did not carry so far."--This prince, according to Masson, piqued +himself on his dexterity in cutting off at a single blow the head of +the asses and pigs which he met with on his way. Lansac, one of his +favourites, having found him one day with his sword drawn and ready +to strike his mule, asked him seriously: "What quarrel has then +happened between His Most Christian Majesty and my mule?" Murad Bey +far surpassed this blood-thirsty monarch in address and strength. The +former, we are told by travellers in Egypt, has been known, when +riding past an ox, to cut off its head with one stroke of his +scimitar. + +The capital was dyed with the blood of Charles's murdered subjects. +Into this very _Louvre_, into the chamber of Marguerite de Valois, +the king's sister, and even to her bed, in which she was then lying, +did the fanatics pursue the officers belonging to the court itself, +as is circumstantially related by that princess in her Memoirs. + +Let us draw the curtain on these scenes of horror, and pass rapidly +from this period of fanaticism and cruelty, when the _Louvre_ was +stained by so many crimes to times more happy, when this palace +became the quiet cradle of the arts and sciences, the school for +talents, the _arena_ for genius, and the asylum of artists and +literati. + +The centre pavilion over the principal gate of the _Old Louvre_, was +erected under the reign of Lewis XIII. from the designs of LE +MERCIER, as well as the angle of the left part of the building, +parallel to that built by Henry II. The eight gigantic cariatides +which are there seen, were sculptured by SARRASIN. + +The façade towards the _Jardin de l'Infante_, (as it is called), that +towards the _Place du Louvre_, and that over the little gate, towards +the river, which were constructed under the reigns of Charles IX. and +Henry III. in the midst of the civil wars of the League, partake of +the taste of the time, in regard to the multiplicity of the +ornaments; but the interior announces, by the majesty of its +decorations, the refined taste of Lewis XIV. + +NEW LOUVRE. + +The part of the _Louvre_, which, with the two sides of the old +building, forms the perfect square, three hundred and seventy-eight +feet[2] in extent, called the _New Louvre_, consists in two double +façades, which are still unfinished. LE VEAU, and after him D'ORBAY, +were the architects under whose direction this augmentation was made +by order of Lewis XIV. + +That king at first resolved to continue the _Louvre_ on the plan +begun by Francis I.: for some time he caused it to be pursued, but +having conceived a more grand and magnificent design, he ordered the +foundation of the superb edifice now standing, to be laid on the 17th +of October 1665, under the administration of COLBERT. + +Through a natural prejudice, Lewis XIV. thought that he could find no +where but in Italy an artist sufficiently skilful to execute his +projects of magnificence. He sent for the Cavaliere BERNINI from +Rome. This artist, whose reputation was established, was received in +France with all the pomp due to princes of the blood. The king +ordered that, in the towns through which he might pass, he should be +complimented and receive presents from the corporations, &c. + +BERNINI was loaded with wealth and honours: notwithstanding the +prepossession of the court in favour of this Italian architect, +notwithstanding his talents, he did not succeed in his enterprise. +After having forwarded the foundation of this edifice, he made a +pretext of the impossibility of spending the winter in a climate +colder than that of Italy. "He was promised," says St. Foix, "three +thousand louis a year if he would stay; but," he said, "he would +positively go and die in his _own_ country." On the eve of his +departure, the king sent him three thousand louis, with the grant of +a pension of five hundred. He received the whole with great coolness. + +Several celebrated architects now entered the lists to complete this +grand undertaking.--MANSARD presented his plans, with which COLBERT +was extremely pleased: the king also approved of them, and absolutely +insisted on their being executed without any alteration. MANSARD +replied that he would rather renounce the glory of building this +edifice than the liberty of correcting himself, and changing his +design when he thought he could improve it. Among the competitors was +CLAUDE PERRAULT, that physician so defamed by Boileau, the poet. His +plans were preferred, and merited the preference. Many pleasantries +were circulated at the expense of the new medical architect; and +PERRAULT replied to those sarcasms by producing the beautiful +colonnade of the _Louvre_, the master-piece of French architecture, +and the admiration of all Europe. + +The façade of this colonnade, which is of the Corinthian order; is +five hundred and twenty-five feet in length: it is divided into two +peristyles and three avant-corps. The principal gate is in the centre +avant-corps, which is decorated with eight double columns, crowned by +a pediment, whose raking cornices are composed of two stones only, +each fifty-four feet in length by eight in breadth, though no more +than eighteen inches in thickness. They were taken from the quarries +of Meudon, and formed but one single block, which was sawed into two. +The other two avant-corps are ornamented by six pilasters, and two +columns of the same order, and disposed in the same manner. On the +top, in lieu of a ridged roof, is a terrace, bordered by a stone +balustrade, the pedestals of which are intended to bear trophies +intermixed with vases. + +PERRAULT'S enemies disputed with him the invention of this +master-piece. They maintained that it belonged to LE VEAU, the +architect; but, since the discovery of the original manuscript and +drawings of PERRAULT, there no longer remains a doubt respecting +the real author of this beautiful production. + +In front of this magnificent colonnade, a multitude of salesmen erect +their stalls, and there display quantities of old clothes, rags, &c. +This contrast, as Mercier justly remarks, still speaks to the eye of +the attentive observer. It is the image of all the rest, grandeur and +beggary, side by side. + +However, it is not on the _outside_ of these walls only, that beggary +has been so nearly allied to grandeur. At least we have a solitary +instance of this truth of a very sinking nature. + +Cardinal de Retz tells us, that going one morning to the _Louvre_ to +see the Queen of England, he found her in the chamber of her +daughter, aftenwards Dutchess of Orleans, and that she said to him: +"You see, I come to keep Henriette company: the poor girl could not +leave her bed to-day, for want of fuel."--It is true, he adds, that, +for six months past Cardinal Mazarin had not paid her pension; the +tradesmen, would no longer give her credit, and she had not a piece +of wood to warm her. + +Like St. Paul's in London, the façade of the _Louvre_ cannot be seen +to the best advantage, on account of the proximity of the surrounding +buildings; and, like many other great undertakings too, will, +probably, never be completed, but remain a monument of the fickleness +of the nation. + +Lewis XIV, after having for a long time made the _Louvre_ his +residence; abandoned it for _Versailles_: "Sire," said Dufreny once +to that prince, "I never look at the _New Louvre_, without +exclaiming, superb monument of the magnificence of our greatest +kings, you would have been finished, had you been given to one of the +begging orders of friars!" From that period, the _Louvre_ was wholly +consecrated to the sittings of different academies, and to the +accommodation of several men of science and artists, to whom free +apartments were allotted. + +I much regret having, for this year at least, lost a sight here, +which I should have viewed with no inconsiderable degree of +attention. This is the + +PUBLIC EXHIBITION OF THE PRODUCTIONS OF FRENCH INDUSTRY. + +Under the directorial government, this exhibition was opened in the +_Champ de Mars_; but it now takes place, annually, in the square of +the _Louvre_, during the five complementary days of the republican +calendar; namely, from the 18th to the 22d of September, both +inclusive. + +The exhibition not only includes manufactures of every sort, but also +every new discovery, invention, and improvement. For the purpose of +displaying these objects to advantage, temporary buildings are +erected along the four interior walls of this square, each of which +are subdivided into twenty-five porticoes; so that the whole square +of the _Louvre_, during that period, represents a fair with a hundred +booths. The resemblance, I am told, is rendered still more perfect by +the prodigious crowd; persons of all ranks being indiscriminately +admitted to view these productions. Precautions, however, are taken +to prevent the indiscreet part of the public from rushing into the +porticoes, and sentinels are posted at certain intervals to preserve +order. + +This, undoubtedly, is a very laudable institution, and extremely well +calculated to excite emulation in the national manufactures, +specimens of which being sent from all the principal manufacturing +towns, the hundred porticoes may be said to comprise an epitome of +the present state of all the flourishing manufactures of France. +Indeed, none but new inventions and articles of finished workmanship, +the fabrication of which is known, are suffered to make part of the +exhibition. Even these are not admitted till after a previous +examination, and on the certificate of a private jury of five +members, appointed for that purpose by the prefect of each +department. A new jury, composed of fifteen members, nominated by the +Minister of the Interior, again examine the different articles +admitted; and agreeably to their decision, the government award +premiums and medals to those persons who have made the greatest +improvement in any particular fabric or branch of industry, or +produced any new discovery or invention. The successful candidates +are presented to the Chief Consul by the Minister of the Interior, +and have the honour of dining with him at his public monthly dinner. + +From all that I can learn concerning this interesting exhibition, it +appears, that, though the useful arts, in general, cannot at present +be put in competition here with those of a similar description among +us, the object of the French government is to keep up a spirit of +rivalship, and encourage, by every possible means, the improvement of +those manufactures in which England is acknowledged to surpass other +countries. + +I am reminded that it is time to prepare for going out to dinner. I +must therefore not leave this letter, like the _Louvre_, unfinished. +Fortunately, my good friend, the prevailing fashion here is to dine +very late, which leaves me a long morning; but for this, I know not +when I should have an opportunity of writing long letters. Restrain +then your impatience, and I promise that you shall very shortly be +ushered into the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES, + + "Where the smooth chisel all its force has shewn, + And soften'd into flesh the rugged stone." + +[Footnote 1: _Essais historiques sur Paris_.] + +[Footnote 2: It may be necessary to observe that, throughout these +letters, we always speak of French feet. The English foot is to the +French as 12 to 12.789, or as 4 to 4.263.] + + + +LETTER VII. + +_Paris, October 28, 1801._ + +Having, in my last letter, described to you the outside of the +_Louvre_, (with the exception of the Great Gallery, of which I shall +speak more at length in another place), I shall now proceed to give +you an account of some of the principal national establishments +contained within its walls. + +Before the revolution, the _Louvre_ was, as I have said, the seat of +different academies, such as the _French Academy_, the _Academy of +Sciences_, the _Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres_, the +_Academy of Painting and Sculpture_, and the _Academy of +Architecture_. All these are replaced by the _National Institute of +Arts and Sciences_, of which, however, I shall postpone further +mention till I conduct you to one of its public sittings. + +At the period to which I revert, there existed in the _Louvre_ a +hall, called the _Salle des Antiques_, where, besides, some original +statues by French artists, were assembled models in plaster of the +most celebrated master-pieces of sculpture in Italy, together with a +small number of antiques. In another apartment, forming part of those +assigned to the Academy of Painting, and called the _Galérie +d'Apollon_, were seen several pictures, chiefly of the French school; +and it was intended that the Great Gallery should be formed into a +Museum, containing a collection of the finest pictures and statues at +the disposal of the crown. + +This plan, which had partly been carried into execution under the old +_régime_, is now completed, but in a manner infinitely more +magnificent than could possibly have been effected without the +advantages of conquest. The _Great Gallery_ and _Saloon_ of the +_Louvre_ are solely appropriated to the exhibition of pictures of the +old masters of the Italian, Flemish, and French schools; and the +_Gallery of Apollo_ to that of their drawings; while a suite of lofty +apartments has been purposely fitted up in this palace for the +reception of original antiques, in lieu of those copies of them +before-mentioned. In other rooms, adjoining to the Great Gallery, are +exhibited, as formerly, that is during one month every year, the +productions of living painters, sculptors, architects, and +draughtsmen. + +These different exhibitions are placed under the superintendance of a +board of management, or an administration, (as the French term it), +composed of a number of antiquaries, artists, and men of science, +inferior to none in Europe in skill, judgment, taste, or erudition. +The whole of this grand establishment bears the general title of + +CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS. + +The treasures of painting and sculpture which the French nation have +acquired by the success of their arms, or by express conditions in +treaties of alliance or neutrality, are so immense as to enable them, +not only to render this CENTRAL MUSEUM the grandest collection of +master-pieces in the world, but also to establish fifteen +departmental Museums in fifteen of the principal towns of France. +This measure, evidently intended to favour the progress of the fine +arts, will case Paris of a great number of the pictures, statues, &c. +amassed here from different parts of France, Germany, Belgium, +Holland, Italy, Piedmont, Savoy, and the States of. Venice. + +If you cast your eye on the annexed _Plan of Paris_, and suppose +yourself near the exterior south-west angle of the _Louvre_, or, as +it is more emphatically styled, the NATIONAL PALACE OF ARTS AND +SCIENCES, you will be in the right-hand corner of the _Place du Vieux +Louvre_, in which quarter is the present entrance to the CENTRAL +MUSEUM OF THE ARTS. Here, after passing through a court, you enter a +vestibule, on the left of which is the Hall of the Administration of +the Museum. On the ground-floor, facing the door of this vestibule, +is the entrance to the + +GALLERY OF ANTIQUES. + +In this gallery, which was, for the first time, opened to the public +on the 18th of Brumaire, year ix. of the French republic, (9th of +November 1800), are now distributed no less than one hundred and +forty-six statues, busts, and bas-reliefs. It consists of several +handsome apartments, bearing appropriate denominations, according to +the principal subjects which each contains. Six only are at present +completely arranged for public inspection: but many others are in a +state of preparation. + +The greater part of the statues here exhibited, are the fruit of the +conquests of the army of Italy. Conformably to the treaty of +Tolentino, they were selected at Rome, from the Capitol and the +Vatican, by BARTHÉLEMY, BERTHOLET, MOITTE, MONGE, THOUIN, and TINET, +who were appointed, by the French government, commissioners for the +research of objects appertaining to the Arts and Sciences. + +In the vestibule, for the moderate price of fifteen _sous_, is sold a +catalogue, which is not merely a barren index, but a perspicuous and +satisfactory explanation of the different objects that strike the eye +of the admiring spectator as he traverses the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES. It +is by no means my intention to transcribe this catalogue, or to +mention every statue; but, assisted by the valuable observations with +which I was favoured by the learned antiquary, VISCONTI, long +distinguished for his profound knowledge of the fine arts, I shall +describe the most remarkable only, and such as would fix the +attention of the connoisseur. + +On entering the gallery, you might, perhaps, be tempted to stop in +the first hall; but we will visit them all in regular succession, and +proceed to that which is now the furthest on the left hand. The +ceiling of this apartment, painted by ROMANELLI, represents the four +seasons; whence it is called the + +HALL OF THE SEASONS. + +In consequence, among other antiques, here are placed the statues of +the rustic divinities, and those relating to the Seasons. Of the +whole, I shall distinguish the following: + + N° 210. DIANA. + +Diana, habited as a huntress, in a short tunic without sleeves, is +holding her bow in one hand; while, with the other, she is drawing an +arrow from her quiver, which is suspended at her shoulder. Her legs +are bare, and her feet are adorned with rich sandals. The goddess, +with a look expressive of indignation, appears to be defending the +fabulous hind from the pursuit of Hercules, who, in obedience to the +oracle of Apollo, was pursuing it, in order to carry it alive to +Eurystheus; a task imposed on him by the latter as one of his twelve +labours. + +To say that, in the opinion of the first-rate connoisseurs, this +statue might serve as a companion to the _Apollo of Belvedere_, is +sufficient to convey an idea of its perfection; and, in fact, it is +reckoned the finest representation of Diana in existence. It is of +Parian marble, and, according to historians, has been in France ever +since the reign of Henry IV. It was the most perfect of the antiques +which adorned the Gallery of Versailles. The parts wanting have been +recently restored with such skill as to claim particular admiration. + + 214. ROME. + +In this bust, the city of Rome is personified as an Amazon. The +helmet of the female warrior is adorned with a representation of the +she-wolf, suckling the children of Mars. + +This antique, of Parian marble, is of a perfect Greek style, and in +admirable preservation. It formerly belonged to the Gallery of +Richelieu-Castle. + + 51. ADOLESCENS SPINAM AVELLENS. + +This bronze figure represents a young man seated, who seems employed +in extracting a thorn from his left foot. + +It is a production of the flourishing period of the art, but, +according to appearance, anterior to the reign of Alexander the +Great. It partakes a little of the meagre style of the old Greek +school; but, at the same time, is finished with astonishing truth, +and exhibits a graceful simplicity of expression. In what place it +was originally discovered is not known. It was taken from the +Capitol, where it was seen in the _Palazzo dei Conservatori_. + + 50. A FAUN, _in a resting posture_. + +This young faun, with no other covering than a deer's skin thrown +over his shoulders, is standing with his legs crossed, and leaning on +the trunk of a tree, as if resting himself. + +The grace and finished execution that reign throughout this figure, +as well as the immense number of copies still existing of it, and all +antiques, occasion it to be considered as the copy of the Faun in +bronze, (or Satyr as it is termed by the Greeks), of Praxiteles. That +statue was so celebrated, that the epithet of [Greek: perizoætos], or +the famous, became its distinctive appellation throughout Greece. + +This Faun is of Pentelic marble: it was found in 1701, near _Civita +Lavinia_, and placed in the Capitol by Benedict XIV. + + 59. ARIADNE, _known by the name of_ CLEOPATRA. + +In this beautiful figure, Ariadne is represented asleep on a rock in +the Isle of Naxos, abandoned by the faithless Theseus, and at the +moment when Bacchus became enamoured of her, as described by several +ancient poets. + +It is astonishing how the expression of sleep could be mistaken for +that of death, and cause this figure to be called _Cleopatra_. The +serpent on the upper part of the left arm is evidently a bracelet, of +that figure which the Greek women called [Greek: opidion], or the +little serpent. + +For three successive centuries, this statue of Parian marble +constituted one of the principal ornaments of the Belvedere of the +Vatican, where it was placed by Julius II. + + 190. AUGUSTUS. + +This head of Augustus, adorned with the civic crown of oak leaves, is +one of the fine portraits of that emperor. It is executed in Parian +marble, and comes from Verona, where it was admired in the +_Bevilacqua_ cabinet. + + * * * * * + +On quitting the HALL OF THE SEASONS, we return to that through which +we first passed to reach it. This apartment, from being ornamented +with the statues of ZENO, TRAJAN, DEMOSTHENES, and PHOCION, is +denominated the + +HALL OF ILLUSTRIOUS MEN. + +It is decorated with eight antique granite pillars brought from +_Aix-la-Chapelle_, where they stood in the nave of the church, which +contained the tomb of Charlemagne. + +Among the antiques placed in it, I shall particularize + + N° 75. MENANDER. + +This figure represents the poet, honoured by the Greeks with the +title of _Prince of the New Comedy_, sitting on a hemi-cycle, or +semicircular seat, and resting after his literary labours. He is clad +in the Grecian tunic and _pallium_. + + 76. POSIDIPPUS. + +The dress of Posidippus, who was reckoned among the Greeks one of the +best authors of what was called the _New Comedy_, is nearly that of +Menander, the poet. Like him, he is represented sitting on a +hemi-cycle. + +These two statues, which are companions, are admirable for the noble +simplicity of their execution. They are both of Pentelic marble, and +were found in the XVIth century at Rome, in the gardens of the +convent of _San Lorenzo_, on Mount Viminal. After making part of the +baths of Olympius, they were placed by Sixtus V. at _Negroni_, whence +they were removed to the Vatican by Pius VI. + + * * * * * + +Continuing our examination, after leaving the HALL OF ILLUSTRIOUS +MEN, we next come to the + +HALL OF THE ROMANS. + +The ceiling of this hall is ornamented with subjects taken from the +Roman history, painted by ROMANELLI; and in it are chiefly assembled +such works of sculpture as have a relation to that people. + +Among several busts and statues, representing ADRIAN, PUBLIUS +CORNELIUS SCIPIO, MARCUS JUNIUS BRUTUS, LUCIUS JUNIUS BRUTUS, CICERO, +&c. I shall point out to your notice, + + 209. _The_ TORSO _of_ BELVEDERE. + +This admirable remnant of a figure seated, though the head, arms, and +legs are wanting, represents the apotheosis of Hercules. The lion's +skin spread on the rock, and the enormous size of the limbs, leave no +doubt as to the subject of the statue. Notwithstanding the muscles +are strongly marked, the veins in the body of the hero are +suppressed, whence antiquaries have inferred, that the intention of +the author was to indicate the very moment of his deification. +According to this idea, our countryman FLAXMAN has immortalized +himself by restoring a copy of the _Torso_, and placing Hebe on the +left of Hercules, in the act of presenting to him the cup of +immortality. + +On the rock, where the figure is seated, is the following Greek +inscription: + + [Greek: APOLLONIOS] + [Greek: NESTOROS] + [Greek: ATÆNAIOS] + [Greek: EPOIEI.] + +By which we are informed, that it is the production of APOLLONIUS, +_the Athenian, the son of Nestor_, who, probably, flourished in the +time of Pompey the Great. + +This valuable antique is of Pentelic marble, and sculptured in a most +masterly style. It was found at Rome, near Pompey's theatre, now +_Campo di Fiore_. Julius II. placed it in the garden of the Vatican, +where it was long the object of the studies of MICHAEL ANGELO, +RAPHAEL, &c. those illustrious geniuses, to whom we are indebted for +the improvement of the fine arts. Among artists, it has always been +distinguished by the appellation of the _Torso of Belvedere_. + + 94. _A wounded warrior, commonly called the_ GLADIATOR MORIENS. + +This figure, represents a barbarian soldier, dying on the field of +battle, without surrendering. It is remarkable for truth of +imitation, of a choice nature, though not sublime, (because the +subject would not admit of it,) and for nobleness of expression, +which is evident without affectation. + +This statue formerly belonged to the _Villa-Ludovisi_, whence it was +removed to the Museum of the Capitol by Clement XII. It is from the +chisel of AGASIAS, a sculptor of Ephesus, who lived 450 years before +the Christian era. + + 82. CERES. + +This charming figure is rather that of a Muse than of the goddess of +agriculture. It is admirable for the _ideal_ beauty of the drapery. +She is clad in a tunic; over this is thrown a mantle, the execution +of which is so perfect, that, through it, are perceived the knots of +the strings which fasten the tunic below the bosom. + +It formerly belonged to the _Villa-Mattei_, on Mount Esquiline; but +was taken from the Museum of the Vatican, where it had been placed by +Clement XIV. + + 80. _A Roman orator, called_ GERMANICUS. + +Hitherto this admirable figure of a Roman orator, with the attributes +of Mercury, the god of eloquence, has passed for that of Germanicus, +though it is manifestly too old for him. Here we have another model +of beautiful elegance of form, though not of an _ideal_ sublimity. + +On the shell of a tortoise, at tide foot of the statue, is inscribed +in beautiful Greek characters: + + [Greek: KLEOMENÆS] + [Greek: KLEOMENOYS] + [Greek: ATÆNIOSE] + [Greek: POIÆSEN.] + +Whence we learn that it is the production of CLEOMENES, an Athenian +artist, mentioned by Pliny, and who flourished towards the end of the +Roman republic, about 500 years before Christ. This statue was taken +from the Gallery of Versailles, where it had been placed in the reign +of Lewis XIV. It formerly belonged to the garden of Sixtus V. at +_Villa-Montalto_, in Rome. + + 97. ANTINOÜS, _called the_ ANTINOÜS OF THE CAPITOL. + +In this monument, Adrian's favourite is represented as having +scarcely attained the age of puberty. He is naked, and his attitude +has some affinity to that of Mercury. However, his countenance seems +to be impressed with that cast of melancholy, by which all his +portraits are distinguished: Hence has been applied to him that verse +of Virgil on Marcellus; + + _"Sed frons læta parum, et dejecto lumina vultu"_ + +This beautiful figure, of Carrara marble, is sculptured in a masterly +manner. It comes from the Museum of the Capitol, and previously +belonged to the collection of Cardinal Alessandro Albani. The +fore-arm and left leg are modern. + + 200. ANTINOÜS. + +In this colossal bust of the Bithynian youth, are some peculiarities +which call to mind the images of the Egyptian god _Harpocrates_. It +is finely executed in hard Greek marble, and comes from the Museum of +the Vatican. As recently as the year 1790, it was dug from the ruins +of the _Villa-Fede_ at Tivoli. + +But enough for to-day--to-morrow I will resume my pen, and we will +complete our survey of the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES. + + + +LETTER VIII. + +_Paris, October 29, 1801._ + +If the culture of the arts, by promoting industry and increasing +commerce, improves civilization, and refines manners, what modern +people can boast of such advantages as are now enjoyed by the French +nation? While the sciences keep pace with the arts, good taste bids +fair to spread, in time, from the capital throughout the country, and +to become universal among them. In antiquity, Athens attests the +truth of this proposition, by rising, through the same means, above +all the cities of Greece; and, in modern times, have we not seen in +Florence, become opulent, the darkness of ignorance vanish, like a +fog, before the bright rays of knowledge, diffused by the flourishing +progress of the arts and sciences? + +When I closed my letter yesterday, we had just terminated our +examination of the HALL OF THE ROMANS. On the same line with it, the +next apartment we reach, taking its name from the celebrated group +here placed, is styled the + +HALL OF THE LAOCOON. + +Here are to be admired four pillars of _verde antico_, a species of +green marble, obtained by the ancients, from the environs of +Thessalonica. They were taken from the church of _Montmorency_, where +they decorated the tomb of Anne, the constable of that name. The +first three apartments are floored with inlaid oak; but this is paved +with beautiful marble. + +Of the _chefs d'oeuvre_ exhibited in this hall, every person of taste +cannot but feel particular gratification in examining the +undermentioned; + + N° 108. LAOCOON. + +The pathetic story which forms the subject of this admirable group is +known to every classic reader. It is considered as one of the most +perfect works that ever came from the chisel; being at once a +master-piece of composition, design, and feeling. Any sort of +commentary could but weaken the impression which it makes on the +beholder. + +It was found in 1506, under the pontificate of Julius II, at Rome, on +Mount Esquiline, in the ruins of the palace of Titus. The three +Rhodian artists, AGESANDER, POLYDORUS, and ATHENOPORUS, mentioned by +Pliny, as the sculptors of this _chef d'oeuvre_ flourished during the +time of the Emperors, in the first century of the Christian era. + +The group is composed of five blocks, but joined in so skilful a +manner, that Pliny thought them of one single piece. The right arm of +the father and two arms of the children are wanting. + + 111. AMAZON. + +This uncommonly beautiful figure of Parian marble represents a woman, +whose feminine features and form seem to have contracted the +impression of the masculine habits of warfare. Clad in a very fine +tunic, which, leaving the left breast exposed, is tucked up on the +hips, she is in the act of bending a large bow. No attitude could be +better calculated for exhibiting to advantage the finely-modelled +person of this heroine. + +For two centuries, this statue was at the _Villa-Mattei_, on Mount +Coelius at Rome, whence it was removed to the Museum of the Vatican +by Clement XIV. + + 118. MELEAGER. + +The son of OEneus, king of Calydon, with nothing but a _chlamis_ +fastened on his shoulders, and winding round his left arm, is here +represented resting himself, after having killed the formidable wild +boar, which was ravaging his dominions; at his side is the head of +the animal, and near him sits his faithful dog. + +The beauty of this group is sublime, and yet it is of a different +cast, from either that of the _Apollo of Belvedere_, or that of the +_Mercury_, called Antinoüs, of which we shall presently have occasion +to speak. + +This group is of Greek marble of a cinereous colour: there are two +different traditions respecting the place where it was found; but the +preference is given to that of Aldroandi, who affirms that it was +discovered in a vineyard bordering on the Tiber. It belonged to +Fusconi, physician to Paul III, and was for a long time in the +_Pighini_ palace at Rome, whence Clement XIV had it conveyed to the +Vatican. + + 103 and 104. _Two busts, called_ TRAGEDY and COMEDY. + +These colossal heads of Bacchantes adorned the entrance of the +theatre of the _Villa-Adriana_ at Tivoli. Though the execution of +them is highly finished, it is no detriment to the grandeur of the +style. + +The one is of Pentelic marble; and the other, of Parian. Having been +purchased of Count Fede by Pius VI, they were placed in the Museum of +the Vatican. + + 105. ANTINOÜS. + +This bust is particularly deserving of attention, on account of its +beauty, its excellent preservation, and perfect resemblance to the +medals which remain of Adrian's favourite. + +It is of Parian marble of the finest quality, and had been in France +long before the revolution. + + 112. ARIADNE, _called_ (in the catalogue) BACCHUS. + +Some sculptors have determined to call this beautiful head that of +BACCHUS; while the celebrated VISCONTI, and other distinguished +antiquaries, persist in preserving to it its ancient name of ARIADNE, +by which it was known in the Museum of the Capitol. + +Whichever it may be, it is of Pentelic marble, and unquestionably one +of the most sublime productions of the chisel, in point of _ideal_ +beauty. + + * * * * * + +From the HALL OF THE LAOCOON, we pass into the apartment, which, from +the famous statue, here erected, and embellished in the most splendid +manner, takes the appellation of the + +HALL OF THE APOLLO. + +This hall is ornamented with four pillars of red oriental granite of +the finest quality: those which decorate the niche of the Apollo were +taken from the church that contained the tomb of Charlemagne at +_Aix-la-Chapelle_. The floor is paved with different species of +scarce and valuable marble, in large compartments, and, in its +centre, is placed a large octagonal table of the same substance. + +In proportion to the dimensions of this apartment, which is +considerably larger than any of the others, a greater number of +antiques are here placed, of which the following are the most +pre-eminent. + + N° 145. APOLLO PYTHIUS, _commonly called the_ APOLLO OF BELVEDERE. + +The name alone of this _chef d'oeuvre_ might be said to contain its +eulogium. But as you may, probably, expect from me some remarks on +it, I shall candidly acknowledge that I can do no better than +communicate to you the able and interesting description given of it +by the Administration of the Museum, of which the following is a fair +abridgment. + +"Apollo has just discharged the mortal arrow which has struck the +serpent Python, while ravaging Delphi. In his left hand is held his +formidable bow; his right has but an instant quitted it: all his +members still preserve the impression given them by this action. +Indignation is seated on his lips; but in his looks is the assurance +of success. His hair, slightly curled, floats in long ringlets round +his neck, or is gracefully turned up on the crown of his head, which +is encircled by the _strophium_, or fillet, characteristic of kings +and gods. His quiver is suspended by a belt to the right shoulder: +his feet are adorned with rich sandals. His _chlamis_ fastened on the +shoulder, and tucked up only on the left arm, is thrown back, as if +to display the majesty of his divine form to greater advantage. + +"An eternal youth is spread over all his beautiful figure, a sublime +mixture of nobleness and agility, of vigour and elegance, and which +holds a happy medium between the delicate form of Bacchus, and the +more manly one of Mercury." + +This inimitable master-piece is of Carrara marble, and, consequently, +was executed by some Greek artist who lived in the time of the +Romans; but the name of its author is entirely unknown. The fore-arm +and the left hand, which were wanting, were restored by GIOVANNI +ANGELO DE MONTORSOLI, a sculptor, who was a pupil of Michael Angelo. + +Towards the end of the fifteenth century, it was discovered at _Capo +d'Anzo_, twelve leagues from Rome, on the sea-shore, near the ruins +of the ancient _Antium_. Julius II, when cardinal, purchased this +statue, and placed it in his palace; but shortly after, having +arrived at the pontificate, he had it conveyed to the Belvedere of +the Vatican, where, for three centuries, it was the admiration of the +world. + +On the 16th of Brumaire, year IX, (7th of November, 1801) BONAPARTE, +as First Consul, celebrated, in great pomp, the inauguration of the +Apollo; on which occasion he placed between the plinth of the statue, +and its pedestal, a brass tablet bearing a suitable inscription. + +The Apollo stands facing the entrance-door of the apartment, in an +elevated recess, decorated, as I have before observed, with beautiful +granite pillars. The flight of steps, leading to this recess, is +paved with the rarest marble, inlaid with squares of curious antique +mosaic, and on them are placed two Egyptian sphynxes of red oriental +granite, taken from the Museum of the Vatican. + + 142. VENUS OF THE CAPITOL. + +This figure of Parian marble represents the goddess of beauty issuing +from the bath. Her charms are not concealed by any veil or garment. +She is slightly turning her head to the left, as if to smile on the +Graces, who are supposed to be preparing to attire her. + +In point of execution, this is allowed to be the most beautiful of +all the statues of Venus which we have remaining. The _Venus of +Medicis_ surpasses it in sublimity of form, approaching nearer to +_ideal_ beauty. + +Bupalus, a sculptor of the Isle of Scio, is said to have produced +this master-piece. He lived 600 years before Christ, so that it has +now been in existence upwards of two thousand four hundred years. It +was found about the middle of the eighteenth century, near +_San-Vitale_, at Rome. Benedict XIV having purchased it of the +_Stati_ family, placed it in the Capitol. + + 125. MERCURY, _commonly called the_ ANTINOÜS OF BELVEDERE. + +This statue, also of the finest Parian marble, is one of the most +beautiful that can be imagined. More robust in form than either that +of the _Apollo_ or of the _Meleager_, it loses nothing by being +contemplated after the former. In short, the harmony which reigns +between its parts is such, that the celebrated POUSSIN, in preference +to every other, always took from it the _proportions of the human +figure_. + +It was found at Rome, on Mount Esquiline, under the pontificate of +Paul III, who placed it in the Belvedere of the Vatican, near the +Apollo and the Laocoon. + + 151. _The Egyptian_ ANTINOÜS. + +In this statue, Antinoüs is represented as a divinity of Egypt. He is +standing in the usual attitude of the Egyptian gods, and is naked, +with the exception of his head and wrist, which are covered with a +species of drapery in imitation of the sacred garments. + +This beautiful figure is wrought with superior excellence. It is of +white marble, which leads to a conjecture that it might have been +intended to represent Orus, the god of light, it having been the +custom of the Egyptians to represent all their other divinities in +coloured marble. It was discovered in 1738, at Tivoli, in the +_Villa-Adriana_, and taken from the Museum of the Capitol. + +To judge from the great number of figures of Antinoüs, sculptured by +order of Adrian to perpetuate the memory of that favourite, the +emperor's gratitude for him must have been unbounded. Under the form +of different divinities, or at different periods of life, there are +at present in the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES no less than five portraits of +him, besides three statues and two busts. Three other statues of +Antinoüs, together with a bust, and an excellent bass-relief, in +which he is represented, yet remain to be placed. + + 156. BACCHUS. + +The god of wine is here represented standing, and entirely naked. He +is leaning carelessly with his left arm on the trunk of an elm, round +which winds a grape-vine. + +This statue, of the marble called at Rome _Greco duro_, is reckoned +one of the finest extant of the mirth-inspiring deity. + + * * * * * + +Having surveyed every object deserving of notice in the HALL OF THE +APOLLO, we proceed, on the right hand, towards its extremity, and +reach the last apartment of the gallery, which, from being +consecrated to the tuneful Nine, is called the + +HALL OF THE MUSES. + +It is paved with curious marble, and independently of the Muses, and +their leader, Apollo, here are also assembled the antique portraits +of poets and philosophers who have rendered themselves famous by +cultivating them. Among these we may perceive HOMER and VIRGIL; but +the most remarkable specimen of the art is + + N° 177. EURIPIDES. + +In this hermes we have a capital representation of the features of +the rival of Sophocles. The countenance is at once noble, serious, +and expressive. It bears the stamp of the genius of that celebrated +tragic poet, which was naturally sublime and profound, though +inclined to the pathetic. + +This hermes is executed in Pentelic marble, and was taken from the +academy of _Mantua_. + +Since the revival of the arts, the lovers of antiquity have made +repeated attempts to form a collection of antique statues of the +Muses; but none was ever so complete as that assembled in the Museum +of the Vatican by Pius VI, and which the chance of war has now +transferred to the banks of the Seine. Here the bard may offer up to +them a solemn invocation, and compose his lay, as it were, under +their very eyes. + +The statues of CLIO, THALIA, TERPSICHORE, ERATO, POLYHYMNIA, and +CALLIOPE, together with the APOLLO MUSAGETES, were discovered in +1774, at _Tivoli_, among the ruins of the villa of Cassius. To +complete the number, Pius VI obtained the EUTERPE and the URANIA from +the _Lancellotti_ palace at _Veletri_. They are supposed to be +antique copies of the statues of the Nine Muses by Philiscus, which, +according to Pliny, graced the portico of Octavia. + + * * * * * + +The air of grandeur that reigns in the general arrangement of the +gallery is very striking: and the tasteful and judicious distribution +of this matchless assemblage of antiques does great honour to the +Council of the CENTRAL MUSEUM. Among the riches which Rome possessed, +the French commissioners also, by their choice selection, have +manifested the depth of their knowledge, and the justness of their +discrimination. + +The alterations and embellishments made in the different apartments +of the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES have been executed under the immediate +direction of their author, M. RAYMOND, member of the National +Institute, and architect to the NATIONAL PALACE OF ARTS AND SCIENCES. +In winter, the apartments are kept warm by means of flues, which +diffuse a genial vapour. Here, without the expense of a single +_liard_, the young draughtsman may form his taste by studying the +true antique models of Grecian sculpture; the more experienced artist +may consult them as he finds occasion in the composition of his +subjects; while the connoisseur, the amateur, or the simple observer +may spend many an agreeable hour in contemplating these master-pieces +which, for centuries, have inspired universal admiration. + +These are the materials on which Genius ought to work, and without +which the most promising talent may be greatly misapplied, if not +entirely lost. It was by studying closely these correct models, that +the great MICHAEL ANGELO, the, sublime RAPHAEL, and other eminent +masters, acquired that idea of excellence which is the result of the +accumulated experience of successive ages. Here, in one visit, the +student may imbibe those principles to ascertain which many artists +have consumed the best part of their days; and penetrated by their +effect, he is spared the laborious investigation by which they came +to be known and established. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the +advantages which the fine arts may expect to derive from such a +repository of antiques in a capital so centrical as Paris. The +contemplation of them cannot fail to fire the genius of any artist of +taste, and prompt his efforts towards the attainment of that grand +style, which, disdaining the minute accidental particularities of +individual objects, improves partial representation by the general +and invariable ideas of nature. + +A vast collection of antiquities of every description is still +expected from Italy, among which are the _Venus of Medicis_ and the +_Pallas of Veletri_, a finely-preserved statue, classed by artists +among those of the first rank, dug up at _Veletri_ in 1799, in +consequence of the researches made there by order of the French +commissioners. Upwards of five hundred cases were lying on the banks +of the Tiber, at Rome, ready to be sent off to France, when the +Neapolitans entered that city. They carried them all away: but by the +last article of the treaty of peace with the king of Naples, the +whole of them are to be restored to the French Republic. For the +purpose of verifying their condition, and taking measures for their +conveyance to Paris, two commissioners have been dispatched to Italy: +one is the son of CHAPTAL, Minister of the Interior, and the other is +DUFOURNY, the architect. On the arrival of these cases, even after +the fifteen departmental Museums have been supplied, it is asserted +that there will yet remain in the French capital, antiquities in +sufficient number to form a museum almost from Paris to Versailles. + +The CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS is open to the public in general on +the 8th, 9th, and 10th of each decade;[1] the other days are +appropriated to the study of young pupils; but a foreigner has only +to produce his _permis de séjour_ to gain admission _gratis_ every +day from the hour of ten o'clock to four. To the credit of the +nation, I must observe that this exception in favour of foreigners +excites no jealousy whatever. + +It is no more than a justice due to the liberality of the French +republican government to add, that they set a noble example which is +worthy of being followed, not only in England, but in every other +country, where the arts and sciences are honoured, or the general +interests of mankind held in estimation. From persons visiting any +national establishment, whether museum, library, cabinet, or garden, +in this capital, no sort of fee or perquisite is now expected, or +allowed to be taken. Although it was not a public day when I paid my +first visit to the CENTRAL MUSEUM, no sooner did I shew my _permis de +séjour_, than the doors were thrown open; and from M. VISCONTI, and +other members of the Council, who happened to be present, I +experienced the most polite and obliging attention. As an Englishman, +I confess that I felt a degree of shame on reflecting to what pitiful +exaction a foreigner would be subject, who might casually visit any +public object of curiosity in our metropolis. + +[Footnote 1: By a subsequent regulation, Saturday and Sunday are the +days on which the CENTRAL MUSEUM is open to public inspection.] + + + +LETTER IX. + +_Paris, October 31, 1801._ + +In answer to your question, I shall begin by informing you that I +have not set eyes on the _petit caporal_, as some affect to style the +Chief Consul. He spends much of his time, I am told, at _Malmaison_, +his country-seat; and seldom appears in public, except in his box at +the Opera, or at the French theatre; but at the grand monthly parade, +I shall be certain to behold him, on the 15th of the present month of +Brumaire, according to the republican calendar, which day answers to +the 6th of November. I have therefore to check my impatience for a +week longer. + +However, if I have not yet seen BONAPARTE himself, I have at least +seen a person who has seen him, and will take care that I shall have +an opportunity of seeing him too: this person is no less than a +general--who accompanied him in his expedition to Egypt--who was +among the chosen few that returned with him from that country--who +there surveyed the mouths of the Nile--who served under him in the +famous campaign of Syria; and who at this day is one of the first +military engineers in Europe. In a word, it is General A----y, of the +artillery, at present Director of that scientific establishment, +called the DÉPÔT DE LA GUERRE. He invited me the day before yesterday +to breakfast, with a view of meeting some of his friends whom he had +purposely assembled. + +I am not fond of breakfasting from home; _mais il faut vivre à Rome +comme à Rome_. Between ten and eleven o'clock I reached the _Dépôt_, +which is situated in the _Rue de l'Université_, _Faubourg St, +Germain_, at the _ci-devant Hôtel d'Harcourt_, formerly belonging to +the duke of that name. Passing through the gate-way, I was proceeding +boldly to the principal entrance of the hotel, when a sentinel +stopped me short by charging his bayonet. "Citizen," said he +fiercely, at the same time pointing to the lodge on the right, "you +must speak to the porter." I accordingly obeyed the mandate. "What's +your business, citizen?" inquired the porter gruffly.--"My business, +citizen," replied I, "is only to breakfast with the general."--"Be so +good, citizen," rejoined he in a milder tone, "as to take the trouble +to ascend the grand stair-case, and ring the bell on the +first-floor." + +Being introduced into the general's apartments, I there found eight +or ten persons of very intelligent aspect, seated at a round table, +loaded with all sorts of good things, but, in my mind, better +calculated for dinner than breakfast. Among a great variety of +delicacies, were beef-steaks, or, as they are here termed, _bif-ticks +à l'Anglaise_. Oysters too were not forgotten: indeed, they compose +an essential part of a French breakfast; and the ladies seem +particularly partial to them, I suppose, because they are esteemed +strengthening to a delicate constitution. + +Nothing could be more pleasant than this party. Most of the guests +were distinguished literati, or military men of no ordinary stamp. +One of the latter, a _chef de brigade_ of engineers, near whom I +considered myself fortunate in being placed, spoke to me in the +highest terms of Mr. SPENCER SMITH, Sir Sidney's brother, to whose +interference at _Constantinople_, he was indebted for his release +from a Turkish prison. + +Notwithstanding the continual clatter of knives and forks, and the +occasional gingle of glasses, the conversation, which suffered no +interruption, was to me extremely interesting: I never heard any men +express opinions more liberal on every subject that was started. It +was particularly gratifying to my feelings, as an Englishman, to hear +a set of French gentlemen, some of whom had participated in the sort +of disgrace attached to the raising of the siege of _St. Jean +d'Acre_, generously bestow just encomiums on my brother-officer, to +whose heroism they owed their failure. Addison, I think, says, +somewhere in the Spectator, that national prejudice is a laudable +partiality; but, however laudable it may be to indulge such a +partiality, it ought not to render us blind to the merit of +individuals of a rival nation. + +General A----y, being one of those whose talents have been found too +useful to the State to be suffered to remain in inaction, was obliged +to attend at the _Conseil des Mines_ soon after twelve o'clock, when +the party separated. Just as I was taking leave, he did me the favour +to put into my hand a copy of his _Histoire du Canal du Midi_, of +which I shall say more when I have had leisure to peruse it. + +I do not know that a man in good health, who takes regular exercise, +is the worse for breakfasting on a beef-steak, in the long-exploded +style of Queen Bess; but I am no advocate for all the accessories of +a French _déjeûner à la fourchette_. The strong Mocha coffee which I +swallowed, could not check the more powerful effect of the Madeira +and _crème de rose_. I therefore determined on taking a long walk, +which, when saddle-horses are not to be procured, I have always found +the best remedy for the kind of restlessness created by such a +breakfast. + +I accordingly directed my steps across the _Pont & Place de la +Concorde_, traversed the street of the same name; and, following the +_Boulevard_ for a certain distance, struck off to the left, that is, +towards the north, in order to gain the summit of + +MONTMARTRE. + +In ancient times, there stood on this hill a temple dedicated to +Mars, whence the name _Mons Martis_, of which has been made +_Montmartre_. At the foot of it, was the _Campus Martius_, or _Champ +de Mars_, where the French kings of the first race caused their +throne to be erected every year on the first of May. They came hither +in a car, decorated with green boughs and flowers, and drawn by four +oxen. Such, indeed, was the town-equipage of king DAGOBERT. + + "Quatre boeufs attelés, d'un pas tranquil et lent, + Promenaient dans Paris le monarque indolent." + +Having seated themselves on the throne, they gave a public audience +to the people, at the same time giving and receiving presents, which +were called _estrennes_. Hence annual presents were afterwards termed +_étrennes_, and this gave rise to the custom of making them. + +On this hill too fell the head of [Greek: Dionusios] or _St. Denis_; +and in latter times, this was the spot chosen by the Marshal DE +BROGLIE, who commanded the thirty-five thousand troops by which the +French capital was surrounded in May 1789, for checking the spirit of +the turbulent Parisians, by battering their houses' about their ears, +and burying them under the ruins. + +On the summit of _Montmartre_, is a circular terrace, in the centre +of which stands a windmill, and not far from it, are several others. +Round its brow are several _maisonettes_, or little country boxes, +and also some public gardens with bowers, where lovers often regale +their mistresses. Hence you command a full view of the city of Paris. +You behold roof rising above roof; and the churches towering above +the houses have, at this distance, somewhat the appearance of lofty +chimnies. You look down on the capital as far as the Seine, by which +it is intersected: beyond that river, the surface of the land rises +again in the form of an amphitheatre. On all sides, the prospect is +bounded by eminences of various degrees of elevation, over which, as +well as over the plains, and along the banks of the river, are +scattered villas, windmills, country-seats, hamlets, villages, and +coppices; but, from want of enclosures, the circumjacent country has +not that rich and variegated aspect which delights the eye in our +English rural scenery. This was always one of my favourite walks +during my residence in Paris before the revolution; and I doubt not, +when you visit the French capital, that you will have the curiosity +to scale the heights of _Montmartre_. + +As to the theatres, concerning which you interrogate me, I shall +defer entering into any particular detail of them, till I have made +myself fully acquainted with the attractions of each: this mode of +proceeding will not occasion any material delay, as I generally visit +one of them every evening, but always endeavour to go to that house +where the _best_ performers are to be seen, in their _best_ +characters, and in the _best_ pieces. I mention this, in order that +you may not think me inattentive to your request, by having hitherto +omitted to point out to you the difference between the theatrical +amusements here under the monarchy, and those of the republic. + +The _thèâtre des arts_ or grand French opera, the _opera buffa_ or +Italian comic opera, the _théâtre Feydeau_ or French comic opera, and +the _théâtre Français_, chiefly engage my attention. Yesterday +evening I went to the last-mentioned theatre purposely to see +Mademoiselle CONTAT, who played in both pieces. The first was _Les +Femmes Savantes_, a comedy, in which Molière, wishing to aim a blow +at female pedantry, has, perhaps, checked, in some French women, a +desire for improvement; the second was _La fausse Agnès_, a laughable +afterpiece. Notwithstanding the enormous _embonpoint_ which this +celebrated comic actress has acquired since I saw her last on the +Parisian stage upwards of ten years ago, she acquitted herself with +her accustomed excellence. I happened to sit next to a very warm +admirer of her superior talents, who told me that, bulky as she was +become, he had been highly gratified in seeing her perform at _Rouen_ +not long since, in her favourite character of _Roxalane_, in _Les +Trois Sultanes_. "She was much applauded, no doubt." observed I. +--"Not at all," replied he, "for the crowd was so great, that in no +part of the house was it possible for a man to use his hands." + + + +LETTER X. + +_Paris, November 2, 1801._ + +On reaching Paris, every person, whether Jew or Gentile, foreigner or +not, coming from any department of the republic, except that of _La +Seine_, in which the capital is situated, is now bound to make his +appearance at the _Préfecture de Police_. + +The new-comer, accompanied by two housekeepers, first repairs to the +Police-office of the _arrondissement_, or district, in which he has +taken up his residence, where he delivers his travelling passport; in +lieu of which he receives a sort of certificate, and then he shews +himself at the _Préfecture de Police_, or General Police-office, at +present established in the _Cité_. + +Here, his name and quality, together with a minute description of his +person and his place of abode, are inserted in a register kept for +that purpose, to which he puts his signature; and a printed paper, +commonly called a _permis de séjour_, is given to him, containing a +duplicate of all these matters, filled up in the blanks, which he +also signs himself. It is intended that he should always carry this +paper about him, in order that he may produce it when called on, or, +in case of necessity, for verifying his person, on any particular +occasion, such as passing by a guard-house on foot after eleven +o'clock at night, or being unexpectedly involved in any affray. In a +word, it answers to a stranger the same end as a _carte de sureté_, +or ticket of safety, does to an inhabitant of Paris. + +I accordingly went through this indispensable ceremony in due form on +my arrival here; but, having neglected to read a _nota bene_ in the +margin of the _permis de séjour_, I had not been ten hours in my new +apartments before I received a visit from an Inspector of Police of +the _arrondissement_, who, very civilly reminding me of the omission, +told me that I need not give myself the trouble of going to the +Central Police-office, as he would report my removal. However, being +determined to be strictly _en règle_, I went thither myself to cause +my new residence to be inserted in the paper. + +I should not have dwelt on the circumstance, were it not to shew you +the precision observed in the administration of the police of this +great city. + +Under the old _régime_, every master of a ready-furnished hotel was +obliged to keep a register, in which he inserted the name and quality +of his lodgers for the inspection of the police-officers whenever +they came: this regulation is not only strictly adhered to at +present; but every person in Paris, who receives a stranger under his +roof as an inmate, is bound, under penalty of a fine, to report him +to the police, which is most vigilantly administered by Citizen +FOUCHÉ. + +Last night, not being in time to find good places at the _Théâtre des +Arts_, or Grand French Opera, I went to the _Théâtre Louvois_, which +is within a few paces of it, in hopes of being more successful. I +shall not at present attempt to describe the house, as, from my +arriving late, I was too ill accommodated to be able to view it to +advantage. + +However, I was well seated for seeing the performance. It consisted +of three _petites pièces_: namely, _Une heure d'absence_, _La petite +ville_, and _Le café d'une petite ville_. The first was entertaining; +but the second much more so; and though the third cannot claim the +merit of being well put together, I shall say a few words of it, as +it is a production _in honour of peace_, and on that score alone, +would, at this juncture, deserve notice. + +After a few scenes somewhat languid, interspersed with common-place, +and speeches of no great humour, a _dénouement_, by no means +interesting, promised not to compensate the audience for their +patience. But the author of the _Café d'une petite ville_, having +eased himself of this burden, revealed his motive, and took them on +their weak side, by making a strong appeal to French enthusiasm. This +cord being adroitly struck, his warmth became communicative, and +animating the actors, good humor did the rest. The accessories were +infinitely more interesting than the main subject. An allemande, +gracefully danced by two damsels and a hero, in the character of a +French hussar, returned home from the fatigues of war and battle, was +much applauded; and a Gascoon poet, who declares that, for once in +his life, he is resolved to speak truth, was loudly encored in the +following couplets, adapted to the well-known air of _"Gai, le coeur +à la danse."_ + + "Celui qui nous donne la paix, + Comme il fit bien la guerre! + Sur lui déjà force conplets.... + Mai il en reste à faire: + Au diable nous nous donnions, + Il revient, nous respirons.... + Il fait changer la danse; + + Par lui chez nous plus de discord; + Il regle la cadence, + Et nous voilà d'accord." + +True it is, that BONAPARTE, as principal ballet-master, has changed +the dance of the whole nation; he regulates their step to the measure +of his own music, and _discord_ is mute at the moment: but the +question is, whether the French are bona-fide _d'accord_, (as the +Gascoon affirms,) that is, perfectly reconciled to the new tune and +figure? Let us, however, keep out of this maze; were we to enter it, +we might remain bewildered there, perhaps, till old Father Time came +to extricate us. + +The morning is inviting: suppose we take a turn in the _Tuileries_, +not with a view of surveying this garden, but merely to breathe the +fresh air, and examine the + +PALAIS DU GOUVERNEMENT. + +Since the Chief Consul has made it his town-residence, this is the +new denomination given to the _Palais des Tuileries_, thus called, +because a tile-kiln formerly stood on the site where it is erected. +At that time, this part of Paris was not comprised within its walls, +nothing was to be seen here, in the vicinity of the tile-kiln, but a +few coppices and scattered habitations. + +Catherine de Medicis, wishing to enlarge the capital on this side, +visited the spot, and liking the situation, directed PHILIBERT DE +L'ORME and JEAN BULLAN, two celebrated French architects, to present +her with a plan, from which the construction of this palace was begun +in May 1564. At first, it consisted only of the large square pavilion +in the centre of the two piles of building, which have each a terrace +towards the garden, and of the two pavilions by which they are +terminated. + +Henry IV enlarged the original building, and, in 1600, began the +grand gallery which joins it to the _Louvre_, from the plan of DU +CERCEAU. Lewis XIII made some alterations in the palace; and in 1664, +exactly a century from the date of its construction being begun, +Lewis XIV directed LOUIS DE VEAU to finish it, by making the +additions and embellishments which have brought it to its present +state. These deviations from the first plan have destroyed the +proportions required by the strict rules of art; but this defect +would, probably, be overlooked by those who are not connoisseurs, as +the architecture, though variously blended, presents, at first sight, +an _ensemble_ which is magnificent and striking. + +The whole front of the palace of the _Tuileries_ consists of five +pavilions, connected by four piles of building, standing on the same +line, and extending for the space of one thousand and eleven feet. +The first order of the three middle piles is Ionic, with encircled +columns. The two adjoining pavilions are also ornamented with Ionic +pillars; but fluted, and embellished with foliage, from the third of +their height to the summit. The second order of these two pavilions +is Corinthian. The two piles of building, which come next, as well as +the two pavilions of the wings, are of a Composite order with fluted +pillars. From a tall iron spindle, placed on the pinnacle of each of +the three principal pavilions is now seen floating a horizontal +tri-coloured streamer. Till the improvements made by Lewis XIV, the +large centre pavilion had been decorated with the Ionic and Corinthian +orders only, to these was added the Composite. + +On the façade towards the _Place du Carrousel_, the pillars of all +these orders are of brown and red marble. Here may be observed the +marks of several cannon-balls, beneath each of which is inscribed, in +black, 10 AOÛT. + +This tenth of August 1792, a day ever memorable in the history of +France, has furnished many an able writer with the subject of an +episode; but, I believe, few of them were, any more than myself, +actors in that dreadful scene. While I was intently remarking the +particular impression of a shot which struck the edge of one of the +casements of the first floor of the palace, my _valet de place_ came +up to know at which door I would have the carriage remain in waiting. + +On turning round, I fancied I beheld the man who "drew Priam's +curtain in the dead of night." That messenger, I am sure, could not +have presented a visage more pale, more spiritless than my Helvetian. +Recollecting that he had served in the Swiss guards, I was the less +at a loss to account for his extreme agitation. "In what part of the +_château_ were you, Jean," said I, "when these balls were aimed at +the windows?"----"There was my post," replied he, recovering himself, +and pointing to one of the centre casements.--"Is it true," continued +I, "that, by way of feigning a reconciliation, you threw down +cartridges by handfuls to the Marseillese below, and called out; +_vive la nation?"_----"It is but too true," answered Jean; "we then +availed ourselves of the moment when they advanced under the +persuasion that they were to become our friends, and opened on them a +tremendous fire, by which we covered the place with dead and dying. +But we became victims of our own treachery: for our ammunition being, +by this _ruse de guerre_, the sooner expended, we presently had no +resource left but the bayonet, by which we could not prevent the mob +from closing on us."--"And how did you contrive to escape," said I? +--"Having thrown away my Swiss uniform," replied he, "in the general +confusion, I fortunately possessed myself of the coat of a national +volunteer, which he had taken off on account of the hot weather. This +garment, bespattered with blood, I instantly put on, as well as his +hat with a tri-coloured cockade."--"This disguise saved your life," +interrupted I.--"Yes, indeed;" rejoined he. "Having got down to the +vestibule, I could not find a passage into the garden; and, to +prevent suspicion, I at once mixed with the mob on the place where we +are now standing."--"How did you get off at last," said I?--"I was +obliged," answered he, "to shout and swear with the _poissardes_, +while the heads of many of my comrades were thrown out of the +windows."--"The _poissardes_," added I, "set no bounds to their +cruelty?"--"No," replied he, "I expected every moment to feel its +effects; my disguise alone favoured my escape: on the dead bodies of +my countrymen they practised every species of mutilation." Here Jean +drew a picture of a nature too horrid to be committed to paper. My +pen could not trace it.----In a word, nothing could exceed the +ferocity of the infuriate populace; and the sacking of the palace of +the Trojan king presents but a faint image of what passed here on the +day which overset the throne of the Bourbons. + +According to a calculation, founded as well on the reports of the +police as on the returns of the military corps, it appears that the +number of men killed in the attack of the palace of the _Tuileries_ +on the 10th of August 1792, amounted in the whole to very near six +thousand, of whom eight hundred and fifty-two were on the side of the +besieged, and three thousand seven hundred and forty on the side of +the besiegers. + +The interior of this palace is not distinguished by any particular +style of architecture, the kings who have resided here having made +such frequent alterations, that the distribution throughout is very +different from that which was at first intended. Here it was that +Catherine de Medicis shut herself up with the Guises, the Gondis, and +Birague, the chancellor, in order to plan the horrible massacre of +that portion of the French nation whose religious tenets trenched on +papal power, and whose spirit of independence alarmed regal jealousy. + +Among the series of entertainments, given on the marriage of the king +of Navarre with Marguerite de Valois, was introduced a ballet, in +which the papists, commanded by Charles IX and his brothers, defended +paradise against the huguenots, who, with Navarre at their head, were +all repulsed and driven into hell. Although this pantomime, solely +invented by Catherine, was evidently meant as a prelude to the +dreadful proscription which awaited the protestants, they had no +suspicion of it; and four days after, was consummated the massacre, +where that monster to whom nature had given the form of a woman, +feasted her eyes on the mangled corpses of thousands of bleeding +victims! + +No sooner was the Pope informed of the horrors of St. Bartholemew's +day; by the receipt of Admiral de Coligny's head which Catherine +embalmed and sent to him, than he ordered a solemn procession, by way +of returning thanks to heaven for the _happy event_. The account of +this procession so exasperated a gentlemen of Anjou, a protestant of +the name of Bressaut de la Rouvraye, that he swore he would make +eunuchs of all the monks who should fall into his hands; and he +rendered himself famous by keeping his word, and wearing the trophies +of his victory. + +The _Louvre_ and the palace of the _Tuileries_ were alternately the +residence of the kings of France, till Lewis XIV built that of +Versailles, after which it was deserted till the minority of Lewis +XV, who, when a little boy, was visited here by Peter the Great, but, +in 1722, the court quitted Paris altogether for Versailles, where it +continued fixed till the 5th of October 1789. + +During this long interval, the palace was left under the direction of +a governor, and inhabited only by himself, and persons of various +ranks dependent on the bounty of the crown. When Lewis XVI and his +family were brought hither at that period, the two wings alone were +in proper order; the remainder consisted of spacious apartments +appointed for the king's reception when he came occasionally to +Paris, and ornamented with stately, old-fashioned furniture, which +had not been deranged for years. The first night of their arrival, +they slept in temporary beds, and on the king being solicited the +next day to choose his apartments, he replied: "Let everyone shift +for himself; for my part, I am very well where I am." But this fit of +ill-humor being over, the king and queen visited every part of the +palace, assigning particular rooms to each person of their suite, and +giving directions for sundry repairs and alterations. + +Versailles was unfurnished, and the vast quantity of furniture +collected in that palace, during three successive reigns, was +transported to the _Tuileries_ for their majesties' accommodation. +The king chose for himself three rooms on the ground-floor, on the +side of the gallery to the right as you enter the vestibule from the +garden; on the entresol, he established his geographical study; and +on the first floor, his bed-chamber: the apartments of the queen and +royal family were adjoining to those of the king; and the attendants +were distributed over the palace to the number of between six and +seven hundred persons. + +The greater part of the furniture, &c. in the palace of the +_Tuileries_ was sold in the spring of 1793. The sale lasted six +months, and, had it not been stopped, would have continued six months +longer. Some of the king's dress-suits which had cost twelve hundred +louis fetched no more than five. By the inventory taken immediately +after the 10th of August 1792, and laid before the Legislative +Assembly, it appears that the moveables of every description +contained in this palace were valued at 12,540,158 livres (_circa_ +£522,560 sterling,) in which was included the amount of the thefts, +committed on that day, estimated at 1,000,000 livres, and that of the +dilapidations, at the like sum, making together about £84,000 +sterling. + +When Catherine de Medicis inhabited the palace of the _Tuileries_, it +was connected to the _Louvre_ by a garden, in the middle of which was +a large pond, always well stocked with fish for the supply of the +royal table. Lewis XIV transformed this garden into a spacious square +or _place_, where in the year 1662, he gave to the queen dowager and +his royal consort a magnificent fête, at which, were assembled +princes, lords, and knights, with their ladies, from every part of +Europe. Hence the square was named + +PLACE DU CARROUSEL. + +Previously to the revolution, the palace of the _Tuileries_, on this +side, was defended by a wall, pierced by three gates opening into as +many courts, separated by little buildings, which, in part, served +for lodging a few troops and their horses. All these buildings are +taken down; the _Place du Carrousel_ is considerably enlarged by the +demolition of various circumjacent edifices; and the wall is replaced +by a handsome iron railing, fixed on a parapet about four feet high. +In this railing are three gates, the centre one of which is +surmounted by cocks, holding in their beak a civic crown over the +letters R. F. the initials of the words _République Française_. On +each side of it are small lodges, built of stone; and at the entrance +are constantly posted two _vedettes_, belonging to the +horse-grenadiers of the consular guard. + +On the piers of the other two gates are placed the four famous horses +of gilt bronze, brought from St. Mark's place at Venice, whither they +had been carried after the capture of Byzantium. These productions +are generally ascribed to the celebrated Lysippus, who flourished in +the reign of Alexander the Great, about 325 years before the +christian era; though this opinion is questioned by some distguished +antiquaries and artists. Whoever may be the sculptor, their destiny +is of a nature to fix attention, as their removal has always been the +consequence of a political revolution. After, the conquest of Greece +by the Romans, they were transported from Corinth to Rome, for the +purpose of adorning the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus. Hence +they were removed to Byzantium, when that city became the seat of the +eastern empire. From Byzantium, they were conveyed to Venice, and +from Venice they have at last reached Paris. + +As on the plain of Pharsalia the fate of Rome was decided by Cæsar's +triumph over Pompey, so on the _Place du Carrousel_ the fate of +France by the triumph of the Convention over Robespierre and his +satellites. Here, Henriot, one of his most devoted creatures, whom he +had raised to the situation of commandant general of the Parisian +guard, after having been carried prisoner before the Committee of +Public Safety, then sitting in the palace of the _Tuileries_, was +released by Coffinhal, the President of the Revolutionary Tribunal, +who suddenly made his appearance at the head of a large body of horse +and foot, supported by four pieces of cannon served by gunners the +most devoted to Robespierre. + +It was half past seven o'clock in the evening, where Coffinhal, +decorated with his municipal scarf, presented himself before the +Committee: all the members thought themselves lost, and their fright +communicating to the very bosom of the Convention, there spread +confusion and terror. But Coffinhal's presence of mind was not equal +to his courage: he availed himself only in part of his advantage. +After having, without the slightest resistance, disarmed the guards +attached to the Convention, he loosened the fettered hands of Henriot +and his aides-de-camp, and conducted them straight to the _Maison +Commune_. + +It is an incontestable fact that had either Coffinhal or Henriot +imitated the conduct of Cromwell in regard to the Levellers, and +marched at the head of their troops into the hall of the Convention, +he might have carried all before him, and Robespierre's tyranny would +have been henceforth established on a basis not to be shaken. + +But, when Henriot soon after appeared on the _Place du Carrousel_, +with his staff and a number of followers, he in vain endeavoured by +haranguing the people to stir them up to act against the Convention; +his voice was drowned in tumultuous clamours, and he was deserted by +his hitherto-faithful gunners. The Convention had had time to recover +from their panic, and to enlighten the Sections. Henriot was outlawed +by that assembly, and, totally disconcerted by this news, he fled for +refuge to the _Maison Commune_, where Robespierre and all his +accomplices were soon surrounded, and fell into the hands of those +whom but an instant before, they had proscribed as conspirators +deserving of the most exemplary punishment. + +Henriot, confused and terrified, sought his safety in flight, and was +stealing along one of the galleries of the _Maison Commune_ when he +met Coffinhal, who was also flying. At the sight of Henriot, who on +coming from the Committee, had pledged his life on the success of his +measures, Coffinhal was unable to check his rage. "Coward!" said he +to him, "to this then has led your certain means of defence! +Scoundrel! you shall not escape the death you are endeavouring to +avoid!" Saying these words, he seized Henriot by the middle, and +threw him out of a window of the second story of the _Maison +Commune_. Henriot falling on the roof of a building in a narrow +street adjoining, was not killed; but he had scarcely recovered +himself before he was recognized by some soldiers in quest of him: he +then crawled into a sewer, close to the spot where he had fallen; +when a soldier thrusting his bayonet into the sewer, put out one of +his eyes, and forced him to surrender. + +Thus, the destiny of France, as is seen, hung by the thread of the +moment. It will be recollected that Henriot had the arsenal at his +disposal; he commanded the Parisian guard, and six thousand men +encamped on the _Plaine des Sablons_, close to the capital: in a +word, all the springs of the public force were in his hands. Had he +seized the critical minute, and attacked the Convention at the +instant of his release, the scene of the 10th of August would have +been renewed, and the _Place du Carrousel_ again stained with the +blood of thousands. + + + +LETTER XI. + +_Paris, November 5, 1801._ + +I rise much later to-day than usual, in consequence of not having +gone to bed till near seven o'clock this morning. Happening to call +yesterday on a French lady of my acquaintance, I perceived some +preparations which announced that she expected company. She did not +leave me long in suspense, but invited me to her party for that +evening. + +This good lady, who is no longer in the flower of her age, was still +in bed, though it was four o'clock when I paid my visit. On +expressing my fears that she was indisposed, she assured me of the +contrary, at the same time adding that she seldom rose till five in +the afternoon, on account of her being under the necessity of keeping +late hours. I was so struck by the expression, that I did not +hesitate to ask her what was the _necessity_ which compelled her to +make a practice of turning day into night? She very courteously gave +me a complete solution of this enigma, of which the following is the +substance. + +"During the reign of terror," said she, "several of us _ci-devant +noblesse_ lost our nearest relatives, and with them our property, +which was either confiscated, or put under sequestration, so that we +were absolutely threatened by famine. When the prisoners were +massacred in September 1792, I left nothing unattempted to save the +life of my uncle and grandfather, who were both in confinement in the +_Abbaye_. All my efforts were unavailing. My interference served only +to exasperate their murderers and contributed, I fear, to accelerate +their death, which it was my misfortune to witness. Their inhuman +butchers, from whom I had patiently borne every species of insult, +went so far as to present to me, on the end of a pike, a human heart, +which had the appearance of having been broiled on the embers, +assuring me that, as it was the heart of my uncle, I might eat it +with safety."--Here an ejaculation, involuntarily escaping me, +interrupted her for a moment. + +"For my part," continued she, "I was so overwhelmed by a conflict of +rage, despair, and grief, that I scarcely retained the use of my +senses. The excess of my horror deprived me of utterance.--What +little I was able to save from the wreck of my fortune, not affording +me sufficient means of subsistence, I was, however reluctantly, at +length compelled to adopt a plan of life, by which I saw other women, +in my forlorn situation, support a decent appearance. I therefore +hired suitable apartments, and twice in each decade, I receive +company. On one of these two nights I give a ball and supper, and on +the other, under the name of _société_, I have cards only. + +"Having a numerous circle of female acquaintance," concluded she, "my +balls are generally well attended: those who are not fond of dancing, +play at the _bouillotte_; and the card-money defrays the expenses of +the entertainment, leaving me a handsome profit. In short, these six +parties, during the month, enable me to pay my rent, and produce me a +tolerable pittance." + +This meloncholy recital affected me so much, that, on its being +terminated, I was unable to speak; but I have reason to think that a +favourable construction was put on my silence. A volume, of the size +of a family bible, would not be sufficient to display half the +contrasts engendered by the revolution. Many a _Marquise_ has been +obliged to turn sempstress, in order to gain a livelihood; but my +friend the _Comtesse_ had much ready wit, though no talents of that +description. Having soothed her mind by venting a few imprecations +against the murderers of her departed relatives, she informed me that +her company began to assemble between the hours of eleven and twelve, +and begged that I would not fail to come to her + +PRIVATE BALL. + +About twelve o'clock, I accordingly went thither, as I had promised, +when I found the rooms perfectly crowded. Among a number of very +agreeable ladies, several were to be distinguished for the elegance +of their figure, though there were no more than three remarkable for +beauty. These terrestrial divinities would not only have embarrassed +the Grand Signior for a preference, but even have distracted the +choice of the Idalian shepherd himself. The dancing was already begun +to an excellent band of music, led by Citizen JULIEN, a mulatto, +esteemed the first player of country-dances in Paris. Of the dancers, +some of the women really astonished me by the ease and gracefulness +of their movements: steps, which are known to be the most difficult, +seemed to cost them not the smallest exertion. Famous as they have +ever been for dancing, they seem now, in Cibber's words, "to outdo +their usual outdoings." + +In former times, an extraordinary degree of curiosity was excited by +any female who excelled in this pleasing accomplishment. I remember +to have read that Don Juan of Austria, governor of the Low Countries, +set out post from Brussels, and came to Paris _incog._ on purpose to +see Marguerite de Valois dance at a dress-ball, this princess being +reckoned, at that time, the best dancer in Europe. What then would be +the admiration of such an _amateur_, could he now behold the +perfection attained here by some of the beauties of the present day? + +The men, doubtless, determined to vie with the women, seemed to pride +themselves more on agility than grace, and, by attempting whatever +required extraordinary effort, reminded me of _figurans_ on the +stage, so much have the Parisian youth adopted a truly theatrical +style of dancing. + +The French country-dances (or cotilions, as we term them in England) +and waltzes, which are as much in vogue here as in Germany, were +regularly interchanged. However, the Parisians, in my opinion, cannot +come up to the Germans in this, their native dance. I should have +wished to have had Lavater by my side, and heard his opinion of the +characters of the different female waltzers. It is a very curious and +interesting spectacle to see one woman assume a languishing air, +another a vacant smile, a third an aspect of stoical indifference; +while a fourth seems lost in a voluptuous trance, a fifth captivates +by an amiable modesty, a sixth affects the cold insensibility of a +statue, and so on in ever-varying succession, though all turning to +the animating changes of the same lively waltz. In short I observed +that, in this species of dance, the eyes and feet of almost every +woman appeared to be constantly at variance. + +Without assuming the part of a moralist, I cannot help thinking that +Werter was not altogether in the wrong when he swore, that, were it +to cost him his life, no woman on whom he had set his affections, +should ever waltz with any one but himself. I am not singular in this +opinion; for I recollect to have met with the same ideas in a book +written by M. JACOBI, I think, a German author. + +Speaking of the waltz, "We either ought," says he, "not to boast so +much of the propriety of our manners, or else not suffer that our +wives and daughters, in a complete delirium, softly pressed in the +arms of men, bosom to bosom, should thus be hurried away by the sound +of intoxicating music. In this _whirligig_ dance, every one seems to +forget the rules of decorum; and though an innocent, young creature, +exposed in this manner, were to remain pure and spotless, can she, +without horror, reflect that she becomes, the sport of the +imagination of the licentious youths to whom she so abandons herself? +It were to be wished," adds he, "that our damsels (I mean those who +preserve any vestige of bashfulness), might, concealed in a private +corner, hear sometimes the conversation of those very men to whom +they yield themselves with so little reserve and caution." + +To the best of my recollection, these are the sentiments of M. +JACOBI, expressed twelve or fourteen years ago; yet I do not find +that the waltz is discontinued, or even less practised, in Germany, +than it was at the time when his work first appeared. This dance, +like every other French fashion, has now found its way into England, +and is introduced between the acts, by way of interlude I presume, at +some of our grand private balls and assemblies. But, however I may be +amused by the waltzing of the Parisian belles, I feel too much regard +for my fair country-women to wish to see them adopt a dance, which, +by throwing them off their guard, lays them completely open to the +shafts of ridicule and malice. + +Leaving this point to be settled by the worthy part of our British +matrons, let us return to the Parisian ball, from which I have been +led into a little digression. + +The dancing continued in this manner, that is, French country-dances +and waltzes alternately, till four o'clock, when soup was brought +round to all the company. This was dispatched _sans façon_, as fast +as it could be procured. It was a prelude to the cold supper, which +was presently served in another spacious apartment. No sooner were +the folding-doors of an adjoining room thrown open, than I observed +that, large as it was, it could not possibly afford accommodation to +more than half of the number present. I therefore remained in the +back-ground, naturally supposing that places would first be provided +for all the women. Not so, my friend; several men seated themselves, +and, in the twinkling of an eye, deranged the economy of the whole +table; while the female bystanders were necessitated to seek seats at +some temporary tables placed in the ballroom. Here too were they in +luck if they obtained a few fragments from the grand board; for, such +determined voracity was there exhibited, that so many vultures or +cormorants could not have been more expeditious in clearing the +dishes. + +For instance, an enormous salmon, which would have done honour to the +Tweed or the Severn, graced the middle of the principal table. In +less than five minutes after the company were seated, I turned round, +and missing the fish, inquired whether it had proved tainted. No: but +it is all devoured, was the reply of a young man, who, pointing to +the bone, offered me a pear and a piece of bread, which he shrewdly +observed was all that I might probably get to recruit my strength at +this entertainment. I took the hint, and, with the addition of a +glass of common wine, at once made my supper. + +In half an hour, the tables being removed, the ball was resumed, and +apparently with renewed spirit. The card-room had never been +deserted. _Mind the main chance_ is a wholesome maxim, which the good +lady of the house seemed not to have forgotten. Assisted by a sort of +_croupier_, she did the honours of the _bouillotte_ with that +admirable sang-froid which you and I have often witnessed in some of +our hostesses of fashion; and, had she not communicated to me the +secret, I should have been the last to suspect, while she appeared so +indifferent, that she, like those ladies, had so great an interest in +the card-party being continued till morning. + +As an old acquaintance, she took an opportunity of saying to, me, +with joy in her eyes: "_Le jeu va bien_;" but, at the same time, +expressed her regret that the supper was such a scramble. While we +were in conversation, I inquired the name and character of the most +striking women in the room, and found that, though a few of them +might be reckoned substantial in fortune, as well as in reputation, +the female part of the company was chiefly composed of ladies who, +like herself, had suffered by the revolution; several were divorced +from their husbands, but as incompatibility of temper was the general +plea for such a disunion, that alone could not operate as a blemish. + +To judge of the political predilection of these belles from their +exterior, a stranger would, nine times out of ten, be led into a +palpable error. He might naturally conclude them to be attached to a +republican system, since they have, in general, adopted the Athenian +form of attire as their model; though they have not, in the smallest +degree, adopted the simple manners of that people. Their arms are +bare almost to the very shoulder; their bosom is, in a great measure, +uncovered; their ankles are encircled by narrow ribbands in imitation +of the fastenings of sandals; and their hair, turned up close behind, +is confined on the crown of the head in a large knot, as we see it in +the antique busts of Grecian beauties. + +The rest of their dress is more calculated to display, than to veil +the contours of their person. It was thus explained to me by my +friend, the _ci-devant Comtesse_, who at the same time assured me +that young French women, clad in this airy manner, brave all the +rigour of winter. "A simple piece of linen, slightly laced before," +said she, "while it leaves the waist uncompressed, answers the +purpose of a corset. If they put on a robe, which is not open in +front, they dispense with petticoats altogether; their cambric +_chemise_ having the semblance of one, from its skirt being trimmed +with lace. When attired for a ball, those who dance, as you may +observe, commonly put on a tunic, and then a petticoat becomes a +matter of necessity, rather than of choice. Pockets being deemed an +incumbrance, they wear none: what money they carry, is contained in a +little morocco leather purse; this is concealed in the centre of the +bosom, whose form, in our well-shaped women, being that of the +Medicean Venus, the receptacle occasionally serves for a little gold +watch, or some other trinket, which is suspended to the neck by a +collar of hair, decorated with various ornaments. When they dance, +the fan is introduced within the zone or girdle; and the handkerchief +is kept in the pocket of some sedulous swain, to whom the fair one +has recourse when she has occasion for it. Some of the elderly +ladies, like myself," added she, "carry these appendages in a sort of +work-bag, denominated a _ridicule_. Not long since, this was the +universal fashion first adopted as a substitute for pockets; but, at +present, it is totally laid aside by the younger classes." + +The men at this ball, were, for the most part, of the military class, +thinly interspersed with returned emigrants. Some of the generals and +colonels were in their hussar dress-uniform, which is not only +exceedingly becoming to a well-formed man, but also extremely +splendid and costly. All the seams of the jacket and pantaloons of +the generals are covered with rich and tasteful embroidery, as well +as their sabre-tash, and those of the colonels with gold or silver +lace: a few even wore boots of red morocco leather. + +Most of the Gallic youths, having served in the armies, either a few +years ago under the requisition, or more recently under the +conscription, have acquired a martial air, which is very discernible, +in spite of their _habit bourgeois_. The brown coat cannot disguise +the soldier. I have met with several young merchants of the first +respectability in Paris, who had served, some two, others four years +in the ranks, and constantly refused every sort of advancement. Not +wishing to remain in the army, and relinquish the mercantile +profession in which they had been educated, they cheerfully passed +through their military servitude as privates, and, in that station, +like true soldiers, gallantly fought their country's battles. + +The hour of six being arrived, I was assailed, on all sides, by +applications to set down this or that lady, as the morning was very +rainy, and, independently of the long rank of hackney-coaches, which +had been drawn up at the door, every vehicle that could be procured, +had long been in requisition. The mistress of the house had informed +two of her particular female friends that I had a carriage in +waiting; and as I could accommodate only a certain number at a time, +after having consented to take those ladies home first; I conceived +myself at liberty, on my return, to select the rest of my convoy. To +relieve beauty in distress was one of the first laws of ancient +chivalry; and no knight ever accomplished that vow with greater +ardour than I did on this occasion. + + + +LETTER XII. + +_Paris, November 7, 1801._ + +My impatience is at length gratified. I have seen BONAPARTE. +Yesterday, the 6th, as I mentioned in a former letter, was the day of +the grand parade, which now takes place on the fifteenth only of +every month of the Republican Calendar. The spot where this military +spectacle is exhibited, is the court-yard of the palace of the +_Tuileries_, which, as I have before observed, is enclosed by a low +parapet wall, surmounted by a handsome iron railing. + +From the kind attention of friend, I had the option of being admitted +into the palace, or introduced into the hotel of Cn. MARET, the +Secretary of State, which adjoins to the palace, and standing at +right angles with it, commands a full view of the court where the +troops are assembled. In the former place, I was told, I should not, +on account of the crowd, have an opportunity to see the parade, +unless I took my station at a window two or three hours before it +began; while from the latter, I should enjoy the sight without any +annoyance or interruption. + +Considering that an interval of a month, by producing a material +change in the weather, might render the parade far less brilliant and +attractive, and also that such an offer might not occur a second +time, I made no hesitation in preferring Cn. MARET'S hotel. + +Accompanied by my introducer, I repaired thither about half past +eleven o'clock, and certainly I had every reason to congratulate +myself on my election. I was ushered into a handsome room on the +first-floor, where I found the windows partly occupied by some lovely +women. Having paid my devoirs to the ladies, I entered into +conversation with an officer of rank of my acquaintance, who had +introduced me to them; and from him I gathered the following +particulars respecting the + +GRAND MONTHLY PARADE. + +On the fifteenth of every month, the First Consul in person reviews +all the troops of the consular guard, as well as those quartered in +Paris, as a garrison, or those which may happen to be passing through +this city. + +The consular guard is composed of two battalions of foot-grenadiers, +two battalions of light infantry, a regiment of horse-grenadiers, a +regiment of mounted chasseurs or guides, and two companies of flying +artillery. All this force may comprise between six and seven thousand +men; but it is in contemplation to increase it by a squadron of +Mamalûks, intermixed with Greeks and Syrians, mounted on Arabian +horses. + +This guard exclusively does duty at the palace of the _Tuileries_, +and at _Malmaison_, BONAPARTE's country-seat: it also forms the +military escort of the Consuls. At present it is commanded by General +LASNES; but, according to rumour, another arrangement is on the point +of being made. The consular guard is soon to have no other chief than +the First Consul, and under him are to command, alternately, four +generals; namely, one of infantry, one of cavalry, one of artillery, +and one of engineers; the selection is said to have fallen on the +following officers, BESSIÈRES, DAVOUST, SOULT, and SONGIS. + +The garrison (as it is termed) of Paris is not constantly of the same +strength. At this moment it consists of three demi-brigades of the +line, a demi-brigade of light infantry, a regiment of dragoons, two +demi-brigades of veterans, the horse _gendarmerie_, and a new corps +of choice _gendarmerie_, comprising both horse and foot, and +commanded by the _Chef de brigade_ SAVABY, aide-de-camp to the First +Consul. This garrison may amount to about 15,000 effective men. + +The consular guard and all these different corps, equipped in their +best manner, repair to the parade, and, deducting the troops on duty, +the number of men assembled there may, in general be from twelve to +fifteen thousand. + +By a late regulation, no one, during the time of the parade, can +remain within the railing of the court, either on foot or horseback, +except the field and staff officers on duty; but persons enter the +apartments of the _Tuileries_, by means of tickets, which are +distributed to a certain number by the governor of the palace. + +While my obliging friend was communicating to me the above +information, the troops continued marching into the court below, till +it was so crowded that, at first sight, it appeared impracticable for +them to move, much less to manoeuvre. The morning was extremely fine; +the sun shone in full splendour, and the gold and silver lace and +embroidery on the uniforms of the officers and on the trappings of +their chargers, together with their naked sabres, glittered with +uncommon lustre. The concourse of people without the iron railing was +immense: in short, every spot or building, even to the walls and +rafters of houses under demolition, whence a transient view of the +parade could be obtained, was thronged with spectators. + +By twelve o'clock, all the troops were drawn up in excellent order, +and, as you may suppose, presented a grand _coup d'oeil._ I never +beheld a finer set of men than the grenadiers of the consular guard; +but owing, perhaps, to my being accustomed to see our troops with +short skirts, I thought that the extreme length of their coats +detracted from their military air. The horses mostly of Norman breed, +could not be compared to our English steeds, either for make or +figure; but, sorry and rough as is their general appearance, they +are, I am informed, capable of bearing much fatigue, and resisting +such privations as would soon render our more sleek cavalry unfit for +service. That they are active, and surefooted, I can vouch; for, in +all their sudden wheelings and evolutions in this confined space, not +one of them stumbled. They formed, indeed, a striking contrast to the +beautiful white charger that was led about in waiting for the Chief +Consul. + +The band of the consular guard, which is both numerous and select, +continued playing martial airs, till the colours having been brought +down from the palace, under the escort of an officer and a small +detachment, the drums beat _aux champs_, and the troops presented +arms, when they were carried to their respective stations. Shortly +after, the impatient steed, just mentioned, was conducted to the foot +of the steps of the grand vestibule of the palace. I kept my eye +stedfastly fixed on that spot; and such was the agility displayed by +BONAPARTE in mounting his horse, that, to borrow the words of +Shakspeare, he seemed to + + "Rise from the ground like feather'd Mercury, + And vaulted with such ease into his seat, + As if an angel dropp'd down from the clouds + To turn and wind a fiery Pegasus, + And witch the world with noble horsemanship." + +Off he went at a hand canter, preceded by his aides-de-camp, and +attended, on his right, by General LASNES and followed by other +superior officers, particularly the general commanding the garrison +of Paris, and him at the head of the district. + +BONAPARTE was habited in the consular dress, scarlet velvet +embroidered with gold, and wore a plain cocked hat with the national +cockade. As I purpose to obtain a nearer view of him, by placing +myself in the apartments of the palace on the next parade day, I +shall say nothing of his person till that opportunity offers, but +confine myself to the military show in question. + +Having rid rapidly along the several lines of infantry and cavalry, +and saluted the colours as he passed, BONAPARTE (attended by all his +retinue, including a favourite Mamalûk whom he brought from Egypt), +took a central position, when the different corps successively filed +off before him with most extraordinary briskness; the corps composing +the consular guard preceded those of the garrison and all the others: +on inquiry, however, I find, that this order is not always observed. + + +It is no less extraordinary than true, that the news of the +establishment of this grand parade produced on the mind of the late +emperor of Russia the first impression in favour of the Chief Consul. +No sooner did Paul I. hear of the circumstance, than he exclaimed: +"BONAPARTE is, however, a great man." + +Although the day was so favourable, the parade was soon over, as +there was no distribution of arms of honour, such as muskets, +pistols, swords, battle-axes, &c. which the First Consul presents +with his own hand to those officers and soldiers who have +distinguished themselves by deeds of valour or other meritorious +service. + +The whole ceremony did not occupy more than half an hour, when +BONAPARTE alighted at the place where he had taken horse, and +returned to his audience-room in the palace, for the purpose of +holding his levee. I shall embrace a future opportunity to speak of +the interior etiquette observed on this occasion in the apartments, +and close this letter with an assurance that you shall have an early +account of the approaching _fête_. + + + +LETTER XIII. + +_Paris, November 8, 1801._ + +Great preparations for the _fête_ of to-morrow have, for several +days, employed considerable numbers of people: it therefore becomes +necessary that I should no longer delay to give you an idea of the +principal scene of action. For that purpose, we must direct our steps +to the + +JARDIN DES TUILERIES. + +This garden, which is the most magnificent in Paris, was laid out by +the celebrated LE NOTRE in the reign of Lewis XIV. It covers a space +of three hundred and sixty toises[1] long by one hundred and +sixty-eight broad. To the north and south, it is bordered, throughout +its length, by two terraces, one on each side, which, with admirable +art, conceal the irregularity of the ground, and join at the farther +end in the form of a horse-shoe. To the east, it is limited by the +palace of the _Tuileries_; and to the west, by the _Place de la +Concorde_. + +From the vestibule of the palace, the perspective produces a most +striking effect: the eye first wanders for a moment over the +extensive parterre, which is divided into compartments, planted with +shrubs and flowers, and decorated with basins, _jets-d'eau_, vases, +and statues in marble and bronze; it then penetrates through a +venerable grove which forms a beautiful vista; and, following the +same line, it afterwards discovers a fine road, bordered with trees, +leading by a gentle ascent to _Pont de Neuilly_, through the +_Barrière de Chaillot_, where the prospect closes. + +The portico of the palace has been recently decorated with several +statues. On each side of the principal door is a lion in marble. + +The following is the order in which the copies of antique statues, +lately placed in this garden, are at present disposed. + +On the terrace towards the river, are: 1. Venus _Anadyomene_. 2. An +Apollo of Belvedere. 3. The group of Laocoon. 4. Diana, called by +antiquaries, _Succincta_. 5. Hercules carrying Ajax. + +In front of the palace: 1. A dying gladiator. 2. A fighting +gladiator. 3. The flayer of Marsyas. 4. VENUS, styled _à la +coquille_, crouched and issuing from the bath. N. B. All these +figures are in bronze. + +In the alley in front of the parterre, in coming from the terrace +next the river: 1. Flora Farnese. 2. Castor and Pollux. 3. Bacchus +instructing young Hercules. 4. Diana. + +On the grass-plot, towards the _manège_ or riding-house, Hippomenes +and Atalanta. At the further end is an Apollo, in front of the +horse-shoe walk, decorated with a sphynx at each extremity. + +In the corresponding gras-plot towards the river, Apollo and Daphne; +and at the further end, a Venus _Callypyga_, or (according to the +French term) _aux belles fesses_. + +In the compartment by the horse-chesnut trees, towards the +riding-house, the Centaur. On the opposite side, the Wrestlers. +Farther on, though on the same side, an Antinoüs. + +In the niche, under the steps in the middle of the terrace towards +the river, a Cleopatra. + +In the alley of orange-trees, near the _Place de la Concorde_, +Meleager; and on the terrace, next to the riding-house, Hercules +Farnese. + +In the niche to the right, in front of the octagonal basin, a Faun +carrying a kid. In the one to the left, Mercury Farnese. + +Independently of these copies after the antique, the garden is +decorated with several other modern statues, by COYZEVOX, REGNAUDIN, +COSTOU, LE GROS, LE PAUTRE, &c. which attest the degree of perfection +that had been attained, in the course of the last century, by French +sculptors. For a historical account of them, I refer you to a work, +which I shall send you by the first opportunity, written by the +learned MILLIN. + +Here, in summer, the wide-spreading foliage of the lofty +horse-chesnut trees afford a most agreeable shade; the air is +cooled by the continual play of the _jets-d'eau_; while upwards of +two hundred orange-trees, which are then set out, impregnate it with +a delightful perfume. The garden is now kept in much better order +than it was under the monarchy. The flower-beds are carefully +cultivated; the walks are well gravelled, rolled, and occasionally +watered; in a word, proper attention is paid to the convenience +of the public. + +But, notwithstanding these attractions, as long as it was necessary +for every person entering this garden to exhibit to the sentinels the +national cockade, several fair royalists chose to relinquish its +charming walks, shaded by trees of a hundred years' growth, rather +than comply with the republican mandate. Those anti-revolutionary +_élégantes_ resorted to other promenades; but, since the accession of +the consular government, the wearing of this doubtful emblem of +patriotism has been dispensed with, and the garden of the _Tuileries_ +is said to be now as much frequented in the fine season as at any +period of the old _régime_. + +The most constant visiters are the _quidnuncs_, who, according to the +difference of the seasons, occupy alternately three walks; the +_Terrasse des Feuillans_ in winter; that which is immediately +underneath in spring; and the centre or grand alley during the summer +or autumn. + +Before the revolution, this garden was not open to the populace, +except on the festival of St. Lewis, and the eve preceding, when +there was always a public concert, given under a temporary +amphitheatre erected against the west façade of the palace: at +present no person whatever is refused admittance. + +There are six entrances, at each of which sentinels are regularly +mounted from the grenadiers of the consular guard; and, independently +of the grand guard-room over the vestibule of the palace, there is +one at the end of the garden which opens on the _Place de la +Concorde_, and another on the _Terrasse des Feuillans_. + +But what is infinitely more interesting, on this terrace, is a new +and elegant building, somewhat resembling a _casino_, which at once +unites every accommodation that can be wished for in a coffee-house, +a tavern, or a confectioner's. Here you may breakfast _à l'Anglaise_ +or _à la fourchette_, that is in the most substantial manner, in the +French fashion, read the papers, dine, or sup sumptuously in any +style you choose, or drink coffee and liqueurs, or merely eat ices. +While thus engaged, you enjoy a full view of the company passing and +repassing, and what adds beyond measure to the beauty of the scene, +is the presence of the ladies, who not unfrequently come hither with +their admirers to indulge in a _téte-à-téte_, or make larger parties +to dine or sup at these fashionable rendezvous of good cheer. + +According to the scandalous chronicle, Véry, the master of the house, +is indebted to the charms of his wife for the occupation of this +tasteful edifice, which had been erected by the government on a spot +of ground that was national property, and, of course, at its +disposal. Several candidates were desirous to be tenants of a +building at once so elegant and so centrical. Véry himself had been +unsuccessful, though he had offered a _pot de vin_ (that is the +Parisian term for _good-will_) of five hundred louis, and six +thousand francs a year rent. His handsome wife even began to +apprehend that her mission would be attended with no better fortune. +She presented herself, however, to the then Minister of the Interior, +who, unrelenting as he had hitherto been to all the competitors, did +not happen to be a Scipio. On the contrary, he is said to have been +so struck by the person of the fair supplicant, that he at once +declared his readiness to accede to her request, on condition that +she would favour him with her company to supper, and not forget to +put her night-cap in her pocket. _Relata refero_. + +Be this as it may, I assure you that Madame Véry, without being a +perfect beauty, is what the French call a _beau corps de femme_, or, +in plain English, a very desirable woman, and such as few ministers +of L'n. B--------te's years would choose to dismiss unsatisfied. This +is not the age of continence, and I am persuaded that any man who +sees and converses with the amiable Madame Véry, if he do not envy +the Minister the nocturnal sacrifice, will, on contemplating the +elegance of her arrangements, at least allow that this spot of ground +has not been disposed of to disadvantage. + +Every step we take, in this quarter of Paris, calls to mind some +remarkable circumstance of the history of the revolution. As the +classic reader, in visiting _Troas_, would endeavour to trace the +site of those interesting scenes described in the sublime numbers of +the prince of poets; so the calm observer, in perambulating this +garden, cannot but reflect on the great political events of which it +has been the theatre. In front of the west façade of the palace, the +unfortunate Lewis XVI, reviewed the Swiss, and some of the national +guards, very early in the morning of the 10th of August 1792. On the +right, close to the _Terrasse des Feuillans_, still stands the +_manège_ or riding-house, where the National Assembly at that time +held their sittings, and whither the king, with his family, was +conducted by ROEDERER, the deputy. That building, after having since +served for various purposes, is at present shut up, and will, +probably, be taken down, in consequence of projected improvements in +this quarter. + +In the centre of the west end of the garden, was the famous _Pont +tournant_, by which, on the 11th of July 1789, the Prince de Lambesc +entered it at the head of his regiment of cavalry, and, by +maltreating some peaceable saunterers, gave the Parisians a specimen +of what they were to expect from the disposition of the court. This +inconsiderate _galopade_, as the French term it, was the first signal +of the general insurrection. + +The _Pont tournant_ is destroyed, and the ditch filled up. Leaving +the garden of the _Tuileries_ by this issue, we enter the + +PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. + +This is the new name given to the _Place de Louis XV_. After the +abolition of royalty in France, it was called the _Place de la +Révolution_. When the reign of terror ceased, by the fall of +Robespierre, it obtained its present appellation, which forms a +strong contrast to the number of victims that have here been +sacrificed to the demon of faction. + +This square, which is seven hundred and eighty feet in length by six +hundred and thirty in breadth, was planned after the treaty of +Aix-la-Chapelle, and finished in 1763. It forms a parallelogram +with its angles cut off, which are surrounded by ditches, guarded by +balustrades, breast high. To repair from the _Tuileries_ to the +_Champs Elysées_, you cross it in a straight line from east to west, +and from north to south, to proceed from the _Rue de la Concorde +(ci-devant Rue Royale)_ to the _Pont de la Concorde (ci-devant +Pont de Louis XVI.)_ + +Near the intersection of these roads stood the equestrian statue in +bronze of Lewis XV, which caught the eye in a direct line with the +centre of the grand alley of the garden of the _Tuileries_. It has +since been replaced by a statue of Liberty. This colossal figure was +removed a few days ago, and, by all accounts, will not be re-erected. + +The north part of this square, the only one that is occupied by +buildings, presents, on each side of the _Rue de la Concorde_, two +edifices, each two hundred and forty-eight feet in front, decorated +with insulated columns of the Corinthian order, to the number of +twelve, and terminated by two pavilions, with six columns, crowned by +a pediment. On the ground-floor of these edifices, one of which, that +next the _Tuileries_, was formerly the _Garde-Meuble de la Couronne_, +are arcades that form a gallery, in like manner as the colonnade +above, the cornice of which is surmounted by a balustrade. I have +been thus particular in describing this façade, in order to enable +you to judge of the charming effect which it must produce, when +illuminated with thousands of lamps on the occasion of the grand +_fête_ in honour of peace, which takes place to-morrow. + +It was in the right hand corner of this square, as you come out of +the garden of the _Tuileries_ by the centre issue, that the terrible +guillotine was erected. From the window of a friend's room, where I +am now writing, I behold the very spot which has so often been +drenched with the mixed blood of princes, poets, legislators, +philosophers, and plebeians. On that spot too fell the head of one of +the most powerful monarchs in Europe. + +I have heard much regret expressed respecting this execution; I have +witnessed much lamentation excited by it both in England and France; +but I question whether any of those loyal subjects, who deserted +their king when they saw him in danger, will ever manifest the +sincere affection, the poignant sensibility of DOMINIQUE SARRÈDE. + +To follow Henry IV to the battle of Ivry in 1533, SARRÈDE had his +wounded leg cut off, in order that he might be enabled to sit on +horseback. This was not all. His attachment to his royal master was +so great, that, in passing through the _Rue de la Ferronnerie_ two +days after the assassination of that prince, and surveying the fatal +place where it had been committed, he was so overcome by grief, that +he fell almost dead on the spot, and actually expired the next +morning. I question, I say, whether any one of those emigrants, who +made so officious a display of their zeal, when they knew it to be +unavailing, will ever moisten with a single tear the small space of +earth stained with the blood of their unfortunate monarch. + +Since I have been in Paris, I have met with a person of great +respectability, totally unconnected with politics, who was present at +several of those executions: at first he attended them from +curiosity, which soon degenerated into habit, and at last became an +occupation. He successively beheld the death of Charlotte Corday, +Madame Roland, Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, Madame Elizabeth, +Philippe Egalité, Madame du Barry, Danton, Robespierre, Couthon, St. +Just, Henriot, Fouquier-Tinville, _cum mullis aliis_, too numerous to +mention. + +Among other particulars, this person informed me that Lewis XVI +struggled much, by which the fatal instrument cut through the back of +his head, and severed his jaw: the queen was more resigned; on the +scaffold, she even apologized to Samson, the executioner in chief, +for treading accidentally on his toe. Madame Roland met her fate with +the calm heroism of a Roman matron. Charlotte Corday died with a +serene and dignified countenance; one of the executioners having +seized her head when it fell, and given it several slaps, this base +act of cowardice raised a general murmur among the people. + +As to Robespierre, no sooner had he ascended the scaffold, amid the +vociferous acclamations of the joyful multitude, than the executioner +tore off the dirty bandage in which his wounded head was enveloped +and which partlv concealed his pale and ferocious visage. This made +the wretch roar like a wild beast. His under jaw then falling from +the upper, and streams of blood gushing from the wound, gave him the +most ghastly appearance that can be imagined. When the national +razor, as the guillotine was called by his partisans, severed +Robespierre's head from his body; and the executioner, taking it by +the hair, held it up to the view of the spectators, the plaudits +lasted for twenty minutes. Couthon, St. Just, and Henriot, his +heralds of murder, who were placed in the same cart with himself, +next paid the debt of their crimes. They were much disfigured, and +the last had lost an eye. Twenty-two persons were guillotined at the +same time with Robespierre, all of them his satellites. The next day, +seventy members of the commune, and the day following twelve others, +shared the fate of their atrocious leader, who, not many hours +before, was styled the virtuous and incorruptible patriot. + +You may, probably, imagine that, whatever dispatch might be employed, +the execution of seventy persons, would demand a rather considerable +portion of time, an hour and a half, or two hours, for instance. But, +how wide of the mark! Samson, the executioner of Paris, worked the +guillotine with such astonishing quickness, that, including the +preparatives of the punishment, he has been known to cut off no less +than forty-five heads, the one after the other, in the short space of +fifteen minutes; consequently, at this expeditious rate of three +heads in one minute it required no more than twenty-three minutes and +twenty seconds to decapitate seventy persons. + +Guillotin, the physician, who invented or rather improved this +machine, which is called after his name with a feminine termination, +is said to have been a man of humanity; and, on that principle alone, +he recommended the use of it, from the idea of saving from painful +sensations criminals condemned to die. Seeing the abuse made of it, +from the facility which it afforded of dispatching several persons in +a few minutes, he took the circumstance so much to heart that grief +speedily shortened his existence. + +According to Robespierre, however, the axe of the guillotine did not +do sufficient execution. One of his satellites announced to him the +invention of an instrument which struck off nine heads at once: the +discovery pleased him, and he caused several trials of this new +machine to be made at _Bicêtre_. It did not answer; but human nature +gained nothing by its failure. Instead of half a dozen victims a day, +Robespierre wished to have daily fifty or sixty, or more; and he was +but too well obeyed. Not only had he his own private lists of +proscription; but all his creatures, from the president of the +revolutionary tribunal down to the under-jailers, had similar lists; +and the _almanac royal_, or French court calendar, was converted into +one by himself. + +The inhabitants of the streets through which the unfortunate +sufferers were carried, wearied at length by the daily sight of so +melancholy a spectacle, ventured to utter complaints. Robespierre, no +less suspicious than cruel, was alarmed, and, dreading an +insurrection, removed the scene of slaughter. The scaffold was +erected on the _Place de la Bastille_: but the inhabitants of this +quarter also murmured, and the guillotine was transferred to the +_Barrière St. Antoine_. + +Had not this modern Nero been cut off in the midst of his cruelties, +it is impossible to say where he would have stopped. Being one day +asked the question, he coolly answered: "The generation which has +witnessed the old _règime_, will always regret it. Every individual +who was more than fifteen in 1789, must be put to death: this is the +only way to consolidate the revolution." + +It was the same in the departments as in Paris. Every where blood ran +in streams. In all the principal towns the guillotine was rendered +permanent, in order, as Robespierre expressed himself, to _regenerate +the nation_. If this sanguinary monster did not intend to "wade +through slaughter to a throne," it is certain at least that he "shut +the gates of mercy on mankind." + +But what cannot fail to excite your astonishment and that of every +thinking person, is, that, in the midst of these executions, in the +midst of these convulsions of the state, in the midst of these +struggles for power, in the midst of these outcries against the +despots of the day, in the midst of famine even, not artificial, but +real; in short, in the midst of an accumulation of horrors almost +unexampled, the fiddle and tambourin never ceased. Galas, concerts, +and balls were given daily in incredible numbers; and no less than +from fifteen to twenty theatres, besides several, other places of +public entertainment, were constantly open, and almost as constantly +filled. + +P. S. I am this moment informed of the arrival of Lord Cornwallis. + +[Footnote 1: The ratio between the English fathom and the French +toise, as determined between the first astronomers of both countries, +is as 72 to 76.734.] + + + +LETTER XIV. + +_Paris, November 10, 1801._ + +On the evening of the 8th, there was a representation _gratis_ at all +the theatres, it being the eve of the great day, of the occurrences +of which I shall now, agreeably to my promise, endeavour to give you +a narrative. I mean the + + NATIONAL FÉTE, + IN HONOUR OF PEACE, + _Celebrated on the 18th of Brumaire, year X_, + _the anniversary of_ BONAPARTE'S + _accession to the consulate_. + +Notwithstanding the prayers which the Parisians had addressed to the +sun for the preceding twenty-four hours, + + "----_Nocte pluit totà, redeunt spectacula mane_," + +it rained all night, and was still raining yesterday morning, when +the day was ushered in by discharges of artillery from the saluting +battery at the _Hôtel des Invalides_. This did not disturb me; I +slept soundly till, about eight o'clock, a tintamarre of trumpets, +kettle-drums, &c. almost directly under my window, roused me from my +peaceful slumber. For fear of losing the sight, I immediately +presented myself at the casement, just as I rose, in my shirt and +night-cap. The officers of the police, headed by the Prefect, and +escorted by a party of dragoons, came to the _Place des Victoires_, +as the third station, to give publicity, by word of mouth, to the +Proclamation of the Consuls, of which I inclose you a printed copy. +The civil officers were habited in their dresses of parade, and +decorated with tricoloured sashes; the heads of their steeds, which, +by the bye, were not of a fiery, mettlesome race, being adorned in +like manner. + +This ceremony being over, I returned not to bed, but sat down to a +substantial breakfast, which I considered necessary for preparing my +strength for the great fatigues of so busy a day. Presently the +streets were crowded with people moving towards the river-side, +though small, but heavy rain continued falling all the forenoon. I +therefore remained at home, knowing that there was nothing yet to be +seen for which it was worth while to expose myself to a good wetting. + +At two o'clock the sun appeared, as if to satisfy the eager desire of +the Parisians; the mist ceased, and the weather assumed a promising +aspect. In a moment the crowd in the streets was augmented by a +number of persons who had till now kept within doors, in readiness to +go out, like the Jews keeping Easter, _cincti renibus & comedentes +festinantur_. I also sallied forth, but alone, having previously +refused every invitation from my friends and acquaintance to place +myself at any window, or join any party, conceiving that the best +mode to follow the bent of my humour was to go unaccompanied, and, +not confining myself to any particular spot or person, stroll about +wherever the most interesting objects presented themselves. + +With this view, I directed my steps towards the _Tuileries_, which, +in spite of the immense crowd, I reached without the smallest +inconvenience. The appearance of carriages of every kind had been +strictly prohibited, with the exception of those belonging to the +British ambassador; a compliment well intended, no doubt, and very +gratifying when the streets were so extremely dirty. + +For some time I amused myself with surveying the different +countenances of the groups within immediate reach of my observation, +and which to me was by no means the least diverting part of the +scene; but on few of them could I discover any other impression than +that of curiosity: I then took my station in the garden of the +_Tuileries_, on the terrace next the river. Hence was a view of the +_Temple of Commerce_ rising above the water, on that part of the +Seine comprised between the _Pont National_ and the _Pont Neuf_. The +quays on each side were full of people; and the windows, as well as +the roofs of all the neighbouring houses, were crowded beyond +conception. In the newspapers, the sum of 500 francs, or £20 +sterling, was asked for the hire of a single window of a house in +that quarter. + +Previously to my arrival, a flotilla of boats, decked with streamers +and flags of different colours, had ascended the river from +_Chaillot_ to this temple, and were executing divers evolutions +around it, for the entertainment of the Parisians, who quite drowned +the music by their more noisy acclamations. + +About half after three, the First Consul appeared at one of the +windows of the apartments of the Third Consul, LEBRUN, which, being +situated in the _Pavillon de Flore_, as it is called, at the south +end of the palace of the _Tuileries_, command a complete view of the +river. He and LEBRUN were both dressed in their consular uniform. + +In a few minutes, a balloon, previously prepared at this floating +_Temple of Commerce_, and adorned with the flags of different +nations, ascended thence with majestic slowness, and presently took +an almost horizontal direction to the south-west. In the car attached +to it were Garnerin, the celebrated aëronaut, his wife, and two other +persons, who kept waving their tricoloured flags, but were soon under +the necessity of putting them away for a moment, and getting rid of +some of their ballast, in order to clear the steeples and other lofty +objects which appeared to lie in their route. The balloon, thus +lightened, rose above the grosser part of the atmosphere, but with +such little velocity as to afford the most gratifying spectacle to an +immense number of spectators. + +While following it with my eyes, I began to draw comparisons in my +mind, and reflect on the rapid improvement made in these machines, +since I had seen Blanchard and his friend, Dr. Jefferies, leave Dover +Cliff in January 1785. They landed safely within a short distance of +Calais, as every one knows: yet few persons then conceived it +possible, or at least probable, that balloons could ever be applied +to any useful purpose, still less to the art of war. We find, +however, that at the battle of Fleurus, where the Austrians were +defeated, Jourdan, the French General, was not a little indebted for +his victory to the intelligence given him of the enemy's dispositions +by his aëronautic reconnoitring-party. + +The sagacious Franklin seems to have had a presentiment of the future +utility of this invention. On the first experiments being made of it, +some one asked him: "Of what use are balloons?"--"Of what use is a +new-born child!" was the philosopher's answer. + +Garnerin and his fellow-travellers being now at such a distance as +not to interest an observer unprovided with a telespope, I thought it +most prudent to gratify that ever-returning desire, which, according +to Dr. Johnson, excites once a day a serious idea in the mind even of +the most thoughtless. I accordingly retired to my own apartments, +where I had taken care that dinner should be provided for myself and +a friend, who, assenting to the propriety of allowing every man the +indulgence of his own caprice, had, like me, been taking a stroll +alone among the innumerable multitude of Paris. + +After dinner, my friend and I sat chatting over our dessert, in order +that we might not arrive too soon at the scene of action. At six, +however, we rose from table, and separated. I immediately proceeded +to the _Tuileries_, which I entered by the centre gate of the _Place +du Carrousel_. The whole facade of the palace, from the base of the +lowest pillars up to the very turrets of the pavilions, comprising +the entablatures, &c. was decorated with thousands of _lampions_, +whence issued a steady, glaring light. By way of parenthesis, I must +inform you that these _lampions_ are nothing more than little +circular earthen pans, somewhat resembling those which are used in +England as receptacles for small flower-pots. They are not filled +with oil, but with a substance prepared from the offals of oxen and +in which a thick wick is previously placed. Although the body of +light proceeding from _lampions_ of this description braves the +weather, yet the smoke which they produce, is no inconsiderable +drawback on the effect of their splendour. + +Nothing could exceed the brilliancy of the _coup d'oeil_ from the +vestibule of the palace of the _Tuileries_. The grand alley, as well +as the end of the parterre on each side and the edges of the basins, +was illuminated in a style equally tasteful and splendid. The +frame-work on which the lamps were disposed by millions, represented +lofty arcades of elegant proportion, with their several pillars, +cornices, and other suitable ornaments. The eye, astonished, though +not dazzled, penetrated through the garden, and, directed by this +avenue of light, embraced a view of the temporary obelisk erected +on the ridge of the gradual ascent, where stands the _Barrière de +Chaillot_; the road on each side of the _Champs Elysées_ presenting +an illuminated perspective, whose vanishing point was the obelisk +before-mentioned. + +After loitering a short time to contemplate the west façade of the +palace, which, excelling that of the east in the richness of its +architecture, also excelled it in the splendour of its illuminations, +I advanced along the centre or grand alley to the _Place de la +Concorde_. Here, rose three _Temples_ of correct design and beautiful +symmetry, the most spacious of which, placed in the centre, was +dedicated to _Peace_, that on the right hand to the _Arts_, and that +on the left to _Industry_. + +In front of these temples, was erected an extensive platform, about +five feet above the level of the ground, on which was exhibited a +pantomime, representing, as I was informed, the horrors of war +succeeded by the blessings of peace. Though I arrived in time to have +seen at least a part of it, I saw nothing, except the back of the +spectators immediately before me, and others, mounted on chairs and +benches, some of whom seemed to consider themselves fortunate if they +recovered their legs, when they came now and then to the ground, by +losing their equilibrium. These little accidents diverted me for the +moment; but a misadventure of a truly-comic nature afforded me more +entertainment than any pantomime I ever beheld, and amply consoled me +for being thus confined to the back-ground. + +A lusty young Frenchman, who, from his head-dress _à la Titus_, I +shall distinguish by that name, escorting a lady whom, on account of +her beautiful hair, I shall style _Berenice_, stood on one of the +hindmost benches. The belle, habited in a tunic _à la Grecque_, with +a species of sandals which displayed the elegant form of her leg, was +unfortunately not of a stature sufficiently commanding to see over +the heads of the other spectators. It was to no purpose that the +gentleman called out "_à bas les chapeaux!_" When the hats were off, +the lady still saw no better. What will not gallantry suggest to a +man of fashionable education? Our considerate youth perceived, at no +great distance, some persons standing on a plank supported by a +couple of casks. Confiding the fair _Berenice_ to my care, he +vanished: but, almost in an, instant, he reappeared, followed by two +men, bearing an empty hogshead, which, it seems, he procured from the +tavern at the west entrance of the _Tuileries_. To place the cask +near the feet of the lady, pay for it, and fix her on it, was the +business of a moment. Here then she was, like a statue on its +pedestal, enjoying the double gratification of seeing and being seen. +But, for enjoyment to be complete, we must share it with those we +love. On examining the space where she stood, the lady saw there was +room for two, and accordingly invited the gentleman to place himself +beside her. In vain he resisted her entreaties; in vain he feared to +incommode her. She commanded; he could do no less than obey. Stepping +up on the bench, he thence nimbly sprang to the cask; but, O! fatal +catastrophe! while, by the light of the neighbouring clusters of +lamps, every one around was admiring the mutual attention of this +sympathizing pair, in went the head of the hogshead. + +Our till-then-envied couple fell suddenly up to the middle of the leg +in the wine-lees left in the cask, by which they were bespattered up +to their very eyes. Nor was this all: being too eager to extricate +themselves, they overset the cask, and came to the ground, rolling in +it and its offensive contents. It would be no easy matter to picture +the ludicrous situation of Citizen _Titus_ and Madame _Berenice_. +This being the only mischief resulting from their fall, a universal +burst of laughter seized the surrounding spectators, in which I took +so considerable a share, that I could not immediately afford my +assistance. + + + +LETTER XV. + +_Paris, November 11, 1801._ + +What fortunate people are the Parisians! Yesterday evening so thick a +fog came on, all at once, that it was almost impossible to discern +the lamps in the streets, even when they were directly over-head. Had +the fog occurred twenty-four hours earlier, the effect of the +illuminations would have been entirely lost; and the blind would have +had the advantage over the clear-sighted. This assertion experience +has proved: for, some years ago, when there was, for several +successive days, a duration of such fogs in Paris, it was found +necessary, by persons who had business to transact out of doors, to +hire the blind men belonging to the hospital of the _Quinze-Vingts_, +to lead them about the streets. These guides, who were well +acquainted with the topography of the capital, were paid by the hour, +and sometimes, in the course of the day, each of them cleared five +louis. + +Last night, persons in carriages, were compelled to alight, and grope +their way home as they could: in this manner, after first carefully +ascertaining where I was, and keeping quite close to the wall, I +reached my lodgings in safety, in spite of numberless interrogations +put to me by people who had, or pretended to have, lost themselves. + +When I was interrupted in my account of the _fète_, we were, if I +mistake not, on the _Place de la Concorde_. + +Notwithstanding the many loads of small gravel scattered here, with a +view of keeping the place clean, the quantity of mud collected in the +space of a few hours was really astonishing. _N'importe_ was the +word. No fine lady, by whatever motive she was attracted hither, +regretted at the moment being up to her ankles in dirt, or having the +skirt of her dress bemired. All was busy curiosity, governed by +peaceable order. + +For my part, I never experienced the smallest uncomfortable squeeze, +except, indeed, at the conclusion of the pantomime, when the +impatient crowd rushed forward, and, regardless of the fixed bayonets +of the guards in possession of the platform, carried it by storm. +Impelled by the torrent, I fortunately happened to be nearly in front +of the steps, and, in a few seconds, I found, myself safely landed on +the platform. + +The guard now receiving a seasonable reinforcement, order was +presently restored without bloodshed; and, though several persons +were under the necessity of making a retrograde movement, on my +declaring that I was an Englishman, I was suffered to retain my +elevated position, till the musicians composing the orchestras, +appropriated to each of the three temples, had taken their stations. +Admittance then became general, and the temples were presently so +crowded that the dancers had much difficulty to find room to perform +the figures. + +Good-humour and decorum, however, prevailed to such a degree that, +during the number, of hours I mixed in the crowd, I witnessed not the +smallest disturbance. + +Between nine and ten o'clock, I went to the _Pont de la Concorde_ to +view the fireworks played off from the _Temple of Commerce_ on the +river; but these were, as I understand, of a description far inferior +to those exhibited at the last National Fête of the 14th of July, the +anniversary of the taking of the Bastille. + +This inferiority is attributed to the precaution dictated, by the +higher authorities, to the authors of the fireworks to limit their +ingenuity; as, on the former occasion, some accidents occurred of a +rather serious nature. The spectators, in general, appeared to me to +be disappointed by the mediocrity of the present exhibition. + +I was compensated for the disappointment by the effect of the +illumination of the quays, which, being faced with stone, form a +lofty rampart on each embankment of the river. These were decorated +with several tiers of lamps from the top of the parapet to the +water's edge; the parapets and cornices of the bridges, together with +the circumference of the arches, were likewise illuminated, as well +as the gallery of the _Louvre_, and the stately buildings adjoining +the quays. + +The palace of the Legislative Body, which faces the south end of the +_Pont de la Concorde_, formed a striking object, being adorned, in a +magnificent style, with variegated lamps and transparencies. No less +splendid, and in some respects more so, from the extent that it +presented, was the façade of the _ci-devant Garde-Meuble_, and the +corresponding buildings, which form the north side of the _Place de +la Concorde_, whither I now returned. + +The effect of the latter was beautiful, as you may judge from the +description which I have already given you of this façade, in one of +my preceding letters. Let it suffice then to say, that, from the base +of the lower pillars to the upper cornice, it was covered with lamps +so arranged as to exhibit, in the most brilliant manner, the style +and richness of its architecture. + +The crowd, having now been attracted in various directions, became +more penetrable; and, in regaining the platform on the _Place de la +Concorde_, I had a full view of the turrets, battlements, &c. erected +behind the three temples, in which the skilful machinist had so +combined his plan, by introducing into it a sight of the famous +horses brought from _Marly_, and now occupying the entrance of the +_Champs Elysées_, that these beautiful marble representations of that +noble animal seemed placed here on purpose to embellish his scenery. + +Finding myself chilled by standing so many hours exposed to the +dampness of a November night, I returned to the warmer atmosphere of +the temples, in order to take a farewell view of the dancers. The +scene was truly picturesque, the male part of the groups being +chiefly composed of journeymen of various trades, and the females +consisting of a ludicrous medley of all classes; but it required no +extraordinary penetration to perceive, that, with the exception of a +few particular attachments, the military bore the bell, and, all +things considered, this was no more than justice. Independently of +being the best dancers, after gaining the laurels of victory in the +hard-fought field, who can deny that they deserved the prize of +beauty? + +The dancing was kept up with the never-flagging vivacity peculiar to +this nation, and, as I conclude, so continued till a very late hour +in the morning. At half past eleven I withdrew, with a friend whom I +chanced to meet, to Véry's, the famous _restaurateur's_ in the +_Tuileries_, where we supped. On comparing notes, I found that I had +been more fortunate than he, in beholding to advantage all the sights +of the day: though it was meant to be a day of jubilee, yet it was +far from being productive of that mirth or gaiety which I expected. +The excessive dearness of a few articles of the first necessity may, +probably, be one cause of this gloom among the people. Bread, the +staff of life, (as it may be justly termed in France, where a much +greater proportion is, in general, consumed than in any other +country,) is now at the enormous price of eighteen _sous_ (nine-pence +sterling) for the loaf of four pounds. Besides, the Parisians have +gone through so much during the revolution, that I apprehend they +are, to a certain degree, become callous to the spontaneous +sensations of joy and pleasure. Be the cause what it may, I am +positively assured that the people expressed not so much hilarity at +this fête as at the last, I mean that of the 14th of July. + +In my way home, I remarked that few houses were illuminated, except +those of the rich in the streets which are great thorough-fares. +People here, in general, I suppose, consider themselves dispensed +from lighting up their private residence from the consideration that +they collectively contribute to the public illumination, the expenses +of which are defrayed by the government out of the national coffers. + +Several songs have been composed and published in commemoration of +this joyful event. Among those that have fallen under my notice, I +have selected the following, of which our friend M---s, with his +usual facility and taste, will, I dare say, furnish you an imitation. + + CHANT D'ALLÉGRESSE, + + _Pour la paix._ + + Air: _de la Marche Triomphante_. + + _"Reviens pour consoler la terre, + Aimable Paix, descends des cieux, + Depuis assez long-tems la guerre + Afflige un peuple généreux, + Ah! quell' aurore pure & calme + S'offre à nos regards satisfaits! + Nous obtenons la double paline + De la victoire & de la paix._ bis. + + _"Disparaissez tristes images, + D'un tems malheureux qui n'est plus, + Nous réparerons nos dommages + Par la sagesse & les vertus. + Que la paix enfin nous rallie! + Plus d'ingrats ni de mécontens, + O triomphe de la patrie! + Plus de Français indifférens._ bis. + + _"Revenez phalanges guerrières, + Héros vengeurs de mon pays, + Au sein d'une épouse, d'un père, + De vos parens, de vos amis, + Revenez dans votre patrie + Après tant d'effrayans hazards, + Trouver ce qui charme la vie, + L'amitié, l'amour, et les arts._ bis. + + _"Oh! vous qui, sous des catacombes, + Etes couchés au champ d'honneur, + Nos yeux sont fixés sur vos tombes, + En chantant l'hymne du vainqueur, + Nous transmettrons votre mémoire + Jusqu' aux siécles à venir, + Avec le burin de l'histoire, + Et les larmes du souvenir."_ bis. + + + SONG OF JOY, + + _In honor of peace._ + Imitated from the French. + + To the same tune: _de la Marche Triomphante._ + + Come, lovely Peace, from heav'n descending, + Thy presence earth at length shall grace; + Those terrible afflictions ending, + That long have griev'd a gen'rous race: + We see Aurora rise refulgent; + Serene she comes to bless our sight; + While Fortune to our hopes indulgent, + Bids victory and peace unite. + + Be gone, ye dark imaginations, + Remembrances of horrors past: + Virtue's and Wisdom's reparations + Shall soon be made, and ever last. + Now peace to happiness invites us; + The bliss of peace is understood: + With love fraternal peace delights us, + Our private ease, and country's good. + + Re-enter, sons of war, your houses; + Heroic deeds for peace resign: + Embrace your parents and your spouses, + And all to whom your hearts incline: + Behold your countrymen invite you, + With open, arms, with open hearts; + Here find whatever can delight you; + Here friendship, love, and lib'ral arts. + + Departed heroes, crown'd with glory, + While you are laid in Honour's bed, + Sad o'er your tombs we'll sing the story, + How Gallia's warriors fought and bled: + And, proud to shew to future ages + The claims to patriot valour due, + We'll vaunt, in our historic pages, + The debt immense we owe to you. + + + +LETTER XVI. + +_Paris, November 13, 1801._ + +Enriched, as this capital now is, with the spoils of Greece and +Italy, it may literally be termed the repository of the greatest +curiosities existing. In the CENTRAL MUSEUM are collected all the +prodigies of the fine arts, and, day after day, you may enjoy the +sight of these wonders. + +I know not whether you are satisfied with the abridged account I gave +you of the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES; but, on the presumption that you did +not expect from me a description of every work of sculpture contained +in it, I called your attention to the most pre-eminent only; and I +shall now pursue the same plan, respecting the master-pieces of +painting exhibited in the great + +GALLERY OF THE LOUVRE + +This gallery, which is thirteen hundred and sixty-five feet in length +by thirty in breadth, runs north and south all along the quays of the +river Seine, and joins the _Louvre_ to the palace of the _Tuileries_. +It was begun by Charles IX, carried as far as the first wicket by +Henry IV, to the second by Lewis XIII, and terminated by Lewis XIV. +One half, beginning from a narrow strip of ground, called the _Jardin +de l'Infante_, is decorated externally with large pilasters of the +Composite order, which run from top to bottom, and with pediments +alternately triangular and elliptical, the tympanums of which, both +on the side of the _Louvre_, and towards the river, are charged with +emblems of the Arts and Sciences. The other part is ornamented with +coupled pilasters, charged with vermiculated rustics, and other +embellishments of highly-finished workmanship. + +In the inside of this gallery are disposed the _chefs d'oeuvre_ of +all the great masters of the Italian, Flemish, and French schools. +The pictures, particularly the historical ones, are hung according to +the chronological order of the painters' birth, in different +compartments, the number of which, at the present period, amounts to +fifty-seven; and the productions of each school and of each master +are as much as possible assembled; a method which affords the +advantage of easily comparing one school to another, one master to +another, and a master to himself. If the chronology of past ages be +considered as a book from which instruction is to be imbibed, the +propriety of such a classification requires no eulogium. From the +pictures being arranged chronologically, the GALLERY OF THE LOUVRE +becomes a sort of dictionary, in which may be traced every degree of +improvement or decline that the art of painting has successively +experienced. + +The entrance to the great GALLERY OF PAINTINGS is precisely the same +as that to the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES. After ascending a noble stone +stair-case, and turning to the left, you reach the + +SALOON OF THE LOUVRE. + +This apartment, which serves as a sort of antichamber to the great +Gallery, is, at the present moment, appropriated to the annual +monthly exhibition of the productions of living painters, sculptors, +architects, engravers, and draughtsmen. Of these modern works, I +shall, perhaps, speak on a future occasion. But, in the course of a +few days, they will give place to several master-pieces of the +Italian School, some of which were under indispensable repair, when +the others were arranged in the great Gallery. + +It would be no easy task to express the various sentiments which take +possession of the mind of the lover of the arts, when, for the first +time, he enters this splendid repository. By frequent visits, +however, the imagination becomes somewhat less distracted, and the +judgment, by degrees, begins to collect itself. Although I am not, +like you, conversant in the Fine Arts, would you tax me with +arrogance, were I to presume to pass an opinion on some of the +pictures comprised in this matchless collection? + +Painting being a representation of nature, every spectator, according +to the justness of his ideas, may form an opinion how far the +representation is happily pourtrayed, and in beholding it, experience +a proportionate degree of pleasure: but how different the sensations +of him who, combining all the requisites of a connoisseur, +contemplates the composition of a masterly genius! In tracing the +merits of such a production, his admiration gradually becomes +inflamed, as his eye strays from beauty to beauty. + +In painting or sculpture, beauty, as you well know, is either +natural, or generally admitted: the latter depends on the perfection +of the performance, on certain rules established, and principles +settled. This is what is termed _ideal_ beauty, which is frequently +not within the reach of the vulgar; and the merit of which may be +lost on him who has not learned to know and appreciate it. Thus, one +of the finest pictures, ever conceived and executed by man, might +not, perhaps, make an impression on many spectators. Natural beauty, +on the contrary, is a true imitation of nature: its effect is +striking and general, so that it stands not in need of being pointed +out, but is felt and admired by all. + +Notwithstanding this truth, be assured that I should never, of my own +accord, have ventured to pronounce on the various degrees of merit of +so many _chefs d'oeuvre_, which all at once solicit attention. This +would require a depth of knowledge, a superiority of judgment, a +nicety of discrimination, a fund of taste, a maturity of experience, +to none of which have I any pretension. The greatest masters, who +have excelled in a particular branch, have sometimes given to the +world indifferent productions; while artists of moderate abilities +have sometimes produced master-pieces far above their general +standard. In a picture, which may, on the whole, merit the +appellation of a _chef d'oeuvre_, are sometimes to be found beauties +which render it superior, negligences which border on the +indifferent, and defects which constitute the bad. Genius has its +flights and deviations; talent, its successes, attempts, and faults; +and mediocrity even, its flashes and chances. + +Whatever some persons may affect, a true knowledge of the art of +painting is by no means an easy acquirement; it is not a natural +gift, but demands much reading and study. Many there are, no doubt, +who may be able to descant speciously enough, perhaps, on the +perfections and defects of a picture; but, on that account alone, +they are not to be regarded as real judges of its intrinsic merit. + +Know then, that, in selecting the most remarkable productions among +the vast number exhibited in the CENTRAL MUSEUM, I have had the good +fortune to be directed by the same first-rate connoisseur who was so +obliging as to fix my choice in the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES. I mean M. +VISCONTI. + +Not confining myself either to alphabetical or chronological order, I +shall proceed to point out to you such pictures of each school as +claim particular notice. + + +ITALIAN SCHOOL. + +N. B. _Those pictures to which no number is prefixed, are not yet +publicly exhibited_. + + +RAFFAELLO. + + N° 55. (Saloon.) _The Virgin and Child, &c._ commonly known by the +name of the _Madonna di Foligno_. + +This is one of the master-pieces of RAPHAEL for vigour of colouring, +and for the beauty of the heads and of the child. It is in his second +manner; although his third is more perfect, seldom are the pictures +of this last period entirely executed by himself. This picture was +originally painted on pannel, and was in such a lamentable state of +decay, that doubts arose whether it could safely be conveyed from +Italy. It has been recently transferred to canvass, and now appears +as fresh and as vivid, as if, instead of a lapse of three centuries, +three years only had passed since it was painted. Never was an +operation of the like nature performed in so masterly a manner. The +process was attended by a Committee of the National Institute, +appointed at the particular request of the Administration of the +Museum. The _Madonna di Foligno_ is to be engraved from a drawing +taken by that able draughtsman DU TERTRE. + + N° ( ) _The Holy Family_. + +This valuable picture of RAPHAEL'S third manner is one of the most +perfect that ever came from his pencil. It belonged to the old +collection of the crown, and is engraved by EDELINCK. Although +superior to the _Madonna di Foligno_ as to style and composition, it +is inferior in the representation of the child, and in vigour of +colouring. + + N° ( ) _The Transfiguration of Christ on Mount Tabor._ + +This is the last production of RAPHAEL, and his most admirable _chef +d'oeuvre_ as to composition and grace of the contours in all its +figures. It is not yet exhibited, but will be shortly. This picture +is in perfect preservation, and requires only to be cleaned from a +coat of dust and smoke which has been accumulating on it for three +centuries, during which it graced the great altar of St. Peter's +church at Rome. + +Among the portraits by RAPHAEL, the most surprising are: + +N° 58. (Saloon.) _Baltazzare Castiglione_, a celebrated writer in +Italian and Latin. + + N° ( ) _Leo X._ + +Every thing that RAPHAEL'S pencil has produced is in the first order. +That master has something greatly superior in his manner: he really +appears as a god among painters. Addison seems to have been impressed +with the truth of this sentiment, when he thus expresses himself: + + "Fain would I RAPHAEL'S godlike art rehearse, + And shew th' immortal labours in my verse, + When from the mingled strength of shade and light, + A new creation rises, to my sight: + Such heav'nly figures from his pencil flow, + So warm with life his blended colours glow, + From theme to theme with secret pleasure lost, + Amidst the soft variety I'm lost." + + +LEONARDO DA VINCI. + +There are several pictures by this master in the present exhibition; +but you may look here in vain for the portrait of _La Gioconda_, +which he employed four years in painting, and in which he has +imitated nature so closely, that, as a well-known author has +observed, "the eyes have all the lustre of life, the hairs of the eye +brows and lids seem real, and even the pores of the skin are +perceptible." + +This celebrated picture is now removed to the palace of the +_Tuileries_; but the following one, which remains, is an admirable +performance. + + N° ( ) _Portrait of Charles VIII._ + + +FRA BARTOLOMEO. + + N° 28. (Saloon.) _St. Mark the Evangelist_. + + N° 29. (Saloon.) _The Saviour of the world_. + +These two pictures, which were in the _Pitti_ palace at Florence, +give the idea of the most noble simplicity, and of no common taste in +the distribution of the lights and shades. + + +GIULIO ROMANO. + + N° 35. (Saloon.) _The Circumcision_. + +This picture belonged to the old collection of the crown. The figures +in it are about a foot and a half in height. It is a real _chef +d'oeuvre_, and has all the grace of the antique bas-reliefs. + + +TIZIANO. + + N° 69. (Saloon.) _The Martyrdom of St. Peter_. + +This large picture, which presents a grand composition in colossal +figures, with a country of extraordinary beauty in the back-ground, +is considered as the _chef d'oeuvre_ of TITIAN. It was painted on +pannel; but, having undergone the same operation as the _Madonna di +Foligno_, is now placed on canvass, and is in such a state as to +claim the admiration of succeeding ages. + + N° 74. (Saloon.) _The Portraits of Titian and his mistress._ + + 70. (Saloon.) _Portrait of the Marquis del Guasto with some +ladies_. + +Both these pictures belonged to the old collection of the crown, and +are to be admired for grace and beauty. + + N° 940. (Gallery.) _Christ crowned with thorns_. + + 941. (Gallery.) _Christ carried to the grave_. + +There is a wonderful vigour of colouring in these two capital +pictures. + +The preceding are the most admirable of the productions which are at +present exhibited of this inimitable master, the first of painters +for truth of colouring. + + +CORREGGIO. + + N° 753. (Gallery.) _The Virgin, the infant Jesus, Mary Magdalen, +and St. Jerome._ + +This picture, commonly distinguished by the appellation of the _St. +Jerome_ of CORREGGIO, is undoubtedly his _chef d'oeuvre_. In the year +1749, the king of Portugal is said to have offered for it a sum equal +in value to £18,000 sterling. + + N° 756. (Gallery.) _The Marriage of St. Catherine_. + + 757. (Gallery.) _Christ taken down from the cross_. + +This last-mentioned picture has just been engraved in an excellent +manner by an Italian artist, M. ROSA-SPINA. + +The grace of his pencil and his _chiaro oscuro_ place CORREGGIO in +the first class of painters, where he ranks the third after RAPHAEL +and TITIAN. He is inferior to them in design and composition; however +the scarceness of his pictures frequently gives them a superior +value. Poor CORREGGIO! It grieves one to recollect that he lost his +life, in consequence of the fatigue of staggering home under a load +of _copper_ coin, which avaricious monks had given him for pictures +now become so valuable that they are not to be purchased for their +weight, even in _gold_. + +No collection is so rich in pictures of CORREGGIO as that of the +CENTRAL MUSEUM. + + +PAOLO VERONESE. + + N° 44. (Saloon.) _The Wedding at Cana_. + + 45. (Saloon.) _The Repast at the house of Levi_. + + 51. (Saloon.) _The Pilgrims of Emmaüs_. + +These are astonishing compositions for their vast extent, the number +and beauty of the figures and portraits, and the variety and truth of +the colouring. Nothing in painting can be richer. + + +ANDREA DEL SARTO. + + N° 4. (Saloon.) _Christ taken down from the cross_. + + +ANDREA SQUAZZELLI (his pupil.) + + N° ( ) _Christ laid in the tomb_. + +This capital picture is not in the catalogue. + + +GIORGIONE DEL CASTEL-FRANCO. + + N° 32. (Saloon.) _A Concert containing three portraits_. + +This master-piece is worthy of TITIAN. + + +GUERCINO. + + N° 33 (Saloon.) _St. Petronilla_. + +This large picture was executed for St. Peter's church in the +Vatican, where it was replaced by a copy in Mosaic, on being removed +to the pontificate palace of Monte Cavallo, at Rome. + +In the great Gallery are exhibited no less than twenty-three pictures +by GUERCINO: but to speak the truth, though, in looking at some of +his productions, he appears an extremely agreeable painter, as soon +as you see a number of them, you can no longer bear him. This is what +happens to _mannerists_. The dark shades at first astonish you, +afterwards they disgust you. + + +ANDREA SACCHI. + + N° 65. (Saloon.) _St. Remuald_. + +This picture was always one of the most esteemed of those in the +churches at Rome. It was the altar-piece of the church of St. Remuald +in that city. + + +ALBANO. + + N° 676. (Gallery.) _Fire._ + + 677. _Air._ + + 678. _Water._ + + 679. _Earth._ + +In the Gallery are twenty-nine pictures of this master, and all of +them graceful; but the preceding four, representing the elements, +which were taken from the royal Cabinet of Turin, are the most +remarkable. + + +BAROCCIO. + + N° 686. (Gallery.) _The Virgin, St Anthony, and St. Lucia._ + + 688. _St. Michaelina._ + +These are the best pictures of BAROCCIO already exhibited. His +colouring is enchanting. It is entirely transparent and seems as if +impregnated with light: however, his forms, and every thing else, +bespeak the _mannerist_. + + +ANNIBALE CARRACCI. + + N° 721. (Gallery.) _Christ dead on the knees of the Virgin._ + + 723. _The Resurrection of Christ._ + + 728. _The Nativity of Christ._ + + 730. _Christ laid in the tomb._ + +Of the CARRACCI, ANNIBALE is the most perfect. He is also remarkable +for the different manners which he has displayed in his works. They +appear to be by two or three different painters. Of more than twenty +in the Gallery, the above are the best of his productions. + + +MICHAEL ANGELO DA CARAVAGGIO. + + N° 744. (Gallery.) _Christ laid in the tomb._ + +This wonderful picture, which was brought from Rome, is, for vigour +of execution and truth of colouring, superior to all the others by +the same master. Every one of his works bears the stamp of a great +genius. + + +DOMENICHINO. + + N° 763. (Gallery.) _The Communion of St. Jerome._ + +This picture, the master-piece of DOMENICHICO, comes from the great +altar of the church of _San Geronimo della Carità_, at Rome. It will +appear incredible that for a work of such importance, which cost him +so much time, study, and labour, he received no more than the sum of +about £10 sterling. + + N° 769. (Gallery.) _St. Cecilia_. + +This capital performance is now removed to the drawing-room of the +First Consul, in the palace of the _Tuileries_. + +After RAPHAEL, DOMENICHINO is one of the most perfect masters; and +his _St. Jerome_, together with RAPHAEL'S Transfiguration, are +reckoned among the most famous _chefs d'oeuvre_ of the art of +painting. + + +GUIDO. + + N° 797. (Gallery.) _The Crucifixion of St. Peter_. + + 800. _Fortune_. + +These are the finest of the twenty pictures by that master, now +exhibited in the CENTRAL MUSEUM. They both came from Rome; the +former, from the Vatican; the latter, from the Capitol. + +GUIDO is a noble and graceful painter; but, in general, he betrays a +certain negligence in the execution of several parts. + + +LUINI. + + N° 860. (Gallery.) _The Holy Family_. + + +In this picture, LUINI has fallen little short of his master, +LEONARDO DA VINCI. + + +ANDREA SOLARIO. + + N° 896. (Gallery.) _The Daughter of Herodias receiving the head of +St. John_. + +SOLARIO is another worthy pupil of LEONARDO. This very capital +picture belonged to the collection of the crown, and was purchased by +Lewis XIV. + + +PIERUNO DEL VAGA. + + N° 928. (Gallery.) _The Muses challenged by the Piërides_. + +An excellent picture from Versailles. + + +BALTASSARE PERUZZI. + + N° 929. (Gallery.) _The Virgin discovering the infant Jesus +asleep_. + +A remarkably fine production. + + +SEBASTIANO DEL PIOMBO. + + N° ( ) _Portrait of the young sculptor, Baccio Bomdinelli_. + +This picture is worthy of the pencil of RAPHAEL. It is not yet +exhibited. + + +PIETRO DA CORTONA. + + N° 52. (Saloon.) _The Birth of the Virgin_. + + 53. _Remus and Romulus_. + +These are the finest pictures in the collection by this master. + +We have now noticed the best productions of the Italian School: in +our next visit to the CENTRAL MUSEUM, I shall point out the most +distinguished pictures of the French and Flemish Schools. + +P. S. Lord Cornwallis is sumptuously entertained here, all the +ministers giving him a grand dinner, each in rotation. After having +viewed the curiosities of Paris, he will, in about a fortnight, +proceed to the congress at Amiens. On his Lordship's arrival, I +thought it my duty to leave my name at his hotel, and was most +agreeably surprised to meet with a very old acquaintance in his +military Secretary, Lieut. Col. L--------s. For any of the +ambassador's further proceedings, I refer you to the English +newspapers, which seem to anticipate all his movements. + + + +LETTER XVII. + +_Paris, November 15, 1801._ + +The more frequently I visit the CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS, the more +am I inclined to think that such a vast number of pictures, suspended +together, lessen each other's effect. This is the first idea which +now presents itself to me, whenever I enter the + +GALLERY OF THE LOUVRE. + +Were this collection rendered apparently less numerous by being +subdivided into different apartments, the eye would certainly be less +dazzled than it is, at present, by an assemblage of so many various +objects, which, though arranged as judiciously as possible, somehow +convey to the mind an image of confusion. The consequence is that +attention flags, and no single picture is seen to advantage, because +so many are seen together. + +In proportion as the lover of the arts becomes more familiarized with +the choicest productions of the pencil, he perceives that there are +few pictures, if any, really faultless. In some, he finds beauties, +which are general, or forming, as it were, a whole, and producing a +general effect; in others, he meets with particular or detached +beauties, whose effect is partial: assembled, they constitute the +beautiful: insulated, they have a merit which the amateur +appreciates, and the artist ought to study. General or congregated +beauties always arise from genius and talent: particular or detached +beauties belong to study, to labour, that is, to the _nulla die sine +lineâ_ and sometimes solely to chance, as is exemplified in the old +story of Protogenes, the celebrated Rhodian painter. + + +To discover some of these beauties, requires no extraordinary +discernment; a person of common observation might decide whether the +froth at the mouth of an animal, panting for breath, was naturally +represented: but a spectator, possessing a cultivated and refined +taste, minutely surveys every part of a picture, examines the +grandeur of the composition, the elevation of the ideas, the +nobleness of the expression, the truth and correctness of the design, +the grace scattered over the different objects, the imitation of +nature in the colouring, and the masterly strokes of the pencil. + +Our last visit to the CENTRAL MUSEUM terminated with the Italian +School; let us now continue our examination, beginning with the + +FRENCH SCHOOL. + + +LE BRUN. + + N° 17. _(Gallery) The Defeat of Porus._ + + 18. _The Family of Darius at the feet of Alexander._ + + 19. _The Entrance of Alexander into Babylon. + The Passage of the Granicus._ + + 14. _Jesus asleep, or Silence._ + + 16. _The Crucifix surrounded by angels._ + +The compositions of LE BRUN are grand and rich; his costume +well-chosen, and tolerably scientific; the tone of his pictures +well-suited to the subject. But, in this master, we must not look +for purity and correctness of drawing, in an eminent degree. He much +resembles PIETRO DA CORTONA. LE BRUN, however, has a taste more in +the style of RAPHAEL and the antique, though it is a distant +imitation. The colouring of PIETRO DA CORTONA is far more agreeable +and more captivating. + +Among the small pictures by LE BRUN, N°s. 14 and 16 deserve to be +distinguished; but his _chefs d'oeuvre_ are the achievements of +Alexander. When the plates from these historical paintings, engraved +by AUDRAN, reached Rome, it is related that the Italians, astonished, +exclaimed: "_Povero Raffaello! non sei più il primo_." But, when they +afterwards saw the originals, they restored, to RAPHAEL his former +pre-eminence. + + +CLAUDE LORRAIN. + + N° 43. (Gallery.) _View of a sea-port at sun-set_. + + 45. _A Sea-piece on a fine morning_. + + 46. _A Landscape enlivened by the setting sun_. + +The superior merit of CLAUDE in landscape-painting is too well known +to need any eulogium, The three preceding are the finest of his +pictures in this collection. However, at Rome, and in England, there +are some more perfect than those in the CENTRAL MUSEUM. One of his +_chefs d'oeuvre_, formerly at Rome, is now at Naples, in the Gallery +of Prince Colonna. + + +JOUVENET. + + N° 54. (Gallery.) _Christ taken down from the cross._ + +The above is the most remarkable picture here by this master. + + +MIGNARD. + + N° 57. (Gallery.) _The Virgin_, called _La Vièrge à + la grappe_, because she is taking from a basket of + fruit a bunch of grapes to present to her son. + + +NICOLAS POUSSIN. + + N° 70. (Gallery.) _The Fall of the manna in the desert._ + + 75. _Rebecca and Eleazar._ + + 77. _The Judgment of Solomon._ + + 78. _The blind Men of Jericho._ + + 82. _Winter or the Deluge._ + +In this collection, the above are the finest historical paintings of +POUSSIN; and of his landscapes, the following deserve to be admired. + + N° 76. (Gallery.) _Diogenes throwing away his porringer._ + + 83. _The Death of Eurydice._ + +POUSSIN is the greatest painter of the French school. His +compositions bear much resemblance to those of RAPHAEL, and to the +antique: though they have not the same _naïveté_ and truth. His +back-grounds are incomparable; his landscapes, in point of +composition, superior even to those of CLAUDE. His large altar-pieces +are the least beautiful of his productions. His feeble colouring +cannot support proportions of the natural size: in these pictures, +the charms of the background are also wanting. + + +LE SUEUR. + + N° 98. (Gallery.) _St. Paul preaching at Ephesus._ + +This is the _chef d'oeuvre_ of LE SUEUR, who is to be admired for the +simplicity of his pencil, as well as for the beauty of his +compositions. + + +VALENTINO. + + N° 111. (Gallery.) _The Martyrdom of St. Processa and St. +Martinian._ + + 112. _Cæsar's Tribute._ + +These are the finest productions of this master, who was a worthy +rival of CARAVAGGIO. + + +VERNET. + + N° 121. (Gallery.) _A Sea-port at sun-set_. + +This painter's style is generally correct and agreeable. In the above +picture he rivals CLAUDE. + + * * * * * + +We now come to the school which, of all others, is best known in +England. This exempts me from making any observations on the +comparative merits of the masters who compose it. I shall therefore +confine myself to a bare mention of the best of their performances, +at present exhibited in the CENTRAL MUSEUM. + + +FLEMISH SCHOOL. + + +RUBENS. + + N° 485. (Gallery.) _St. Francis, dying, receives the sacrament._ + + 503. _Christ taken down from the cross_, a celebrated picture +from the cathedral of Antwerp. + + 507. _Nicholas Rochox, a burgomaster of the city of Antwerp, and +a friend of_ RUBENS. + + 509. _The Crucifixion of St. Peter_. + + 513. _St. Roch interceding for the people attacked by the +plague._ + + 526. _The Village-Festival_. + +In this repository, the above are the most remarkable productions of +RUBENS. + + +VANDYCK. + + N° 255. (Gallery.) _The Mother of pity._ + + 264. _The portraits of Charles I, elector palatine, and his +brother, prince Robert._ + + 265. _A full-length portrait of a man holding his daughter by +the hand._ + + 266. _A full-length portrait of a lady with her son._ + +These are superior to the other pictures by VANDYCK in this +collection. + + +CHAMPAGNE. + + N° 216. (Gallery.) _The Nuns._ + +The history of this piece is interesting. The eldest daughter of +CHAMPAGNE was a nun in the convent of _Port-Royal_ at Paris. Being +reduced to extremity by a fever of fourteen months' duration, and +given over by her physicians, she falls to prayers with another nun, +and recovers her health. + + +CRAYER. + + N° 227. (Gallery.) _The Triumph of St. Catherine._ + + +GERHARD DOUW. + + N° 234. (Gallery.) _The dropsical Woman._ + + +HANS HOLBEIN. + + N° 319. (Gallery.) _A young woman, dressed in a yellow veil, and +with her hands crossed on her knees._ + + +JORDAENS. + + N° 351. (Gallery.) _Twelfth-Day_. + + 352. _The Family-Concert_. + + +ADRIAN VAN OSTADE. + + N° 428. (Gallery.) _The family of Ostade, painted by himself._ + + 430. _A smoking Club_. + + 431. _The Schoolmaster, with the ferula in his hand, surrounded +by his scholars_. + + +PAUL POTTER. + + N° 446. (Gallery.) _An extensive pasture, with cattle._ + +This most remarkable picture represents, on the fore-ground, near an +oak, a bull, a ewe with its lamb, and a herdsman, all as large as +life. + + +REMBRANDT. + + N° 457. (Gallery.) _The head of a woman with ear-rings, and dressed +in a fur-cloak._ + + 458. _The good Samaritan_. + + 465. _The Cabinet-maker's family._ + + 466. _Tobias and his family kneeling before the angel Raphael, +who disappears from his sight, after having made himself known._ + + 469. _The Presentation of Jesus in the temple._ + +The pictures, exhibited in the _Saloon_ of the _Louvre_, have +infinitely the advantage of those in the _Great Gallery_; the former +apartment being lighted from the top; while in the latter, the light +is admitted through large windows, placed on both sides, those on the +one side facing the compartments between those on the other; so that, +in this respect, the master-pieces in the _Gallery_ are viewed under +very unfavourable circumstances. + +The _Gallery_ of the _Louvre_ is still capable of containing more +pictures, one eighth part of it (that next to the _Tuileries_), being +under repair for the purpose.[1] It has long been a question with the +French republican government, whether the palace of the _Tuileries_ +should not be connected to the _Louvre_, by a gallery parallel to +that which borders the Seine. Six years ago, I understand, the +subject was agitated, and dropped again, on consideration of the +state of the country in general, and particularly the finances. It is +now revived; and I was told the other day, that a plan of +construction had absolutely been adopted. This, no doubt, is more +easy than to find the sums of money necessary for carrying on so +expensive an undertaking. + +If the fact were true, it is of a nature to produce a great sensation +in modern art, since it is affirmed that the object of this work is +to give a vast display to every article appropriated to general +instruction; for, according to report, it is intended that these +united buildings, should, in addition to the National Library, +contain the collections of statues, pictures, &c. &c. still remaining +at the disposal of the government. I would not undertake to vouch for +the precise nature of the object proposed; but it cannot be denied +that, in this project, there is a boldness well calculated to flatter +the ambition of the Chief Consul. + +However, I think it more probable that nothing, in this respect, will +be positively determined in the present state of affairs. The +expedition to St. Domingo will cost an immense sum, not to speak of +the restoration of the French navy, which must occasion great and +immediate calls for money. Whence I conclude that the erection of the +new Gallery, like that of the National Column, will be much talked +of, but remain among other projects in embryo, and the discussion be +adjourned _sine die_. + +Leaving the _Great Gallery_, we return to the _Saloon_ of the +_Louvre_, which, being an intermediate apartment, serves as a point +of communication between it and the + +GALLERY OF APOLLO. + +The old gallery of this name, first called _La petite galérie du +Louvre_, was constructed under the reign of Henry IV, and, from its +origin, ornamented with paintings. This gallery having been consumed +by fire in 1661, owing to the negligence of a workman employed in +preparing a theatre for a grand ballet, in which the king was to +dance with all his court, Lewis XIV immediately ordered it to be +rebuilt and magnificently decorated. + +LE BRUN, who then directed works of this description in France, +furnished the designs of all the paintings, sculpture, and ornaments, +which are partly executed. He divided the vault of the roof into +eleven principal compartments; in that which is in the centre, he +intended to represent _Apollo_ in his car, with all the attributes +peculiar to the Sun, which was the king's device. The _Seasons_ were +to have occupied the four nearest compartments; in the others, were +to have been _Evening_ and _Morning_, _Night_ and _Day-break_, the +_Waking of the Waters_, and that of the _Earth at Sun-rise_. + +Unfortunately for his fame, this vast project of LE BRUN was never +completed. Lewis XIV, captivated by Versailles, soon turned all his +thoughts towards the embellishment of that palace. The works of the +GALLERY OF APOLLO were entirely abandoned, and, of all this grand +composition, LE BRUN was enabled to execute no more than the +following subjects: + +1. _Evening_, represented by Morpheus, lying on a bed of poppies, and +buried in a profound sleep. + +2. _Night_ succeeding to day, and lighted by the silvery disk of the +Moon, which, under the figure of Diana, appears in a car drawn by +hinds. + +3. _The Waking of the Waters_. Neptune and Amphitrite on a car drawn +by sea-horses, and accompanied by Tritons, Nereïds, and other +divinities of the waters, seem to be paying homage to the rising sun, +whose first rays dispel the Winds and Tempests, figured by a group to +the left; while, to the right, Polyphemus, seated on a rock, is +calling with his loud instrument to his Galatea. + +The other compartments, which LE BRUN could not paint, on account of +the cessation of the works, remained a long time vacant, and would +have been so at this day, had not the _ci-devant_ Academy of +Painting, to whom the king, in 1764, granted the use of the GALLERY +OF APOLLO, resolved that, in future, the historical painters who +might be admitted members, should be bound to paint for their +reception one of the subjects which were still wanting for the +completion of the ceiling. In this manner, five of the compartments, +which remained to be filled, were successively decorated, namely: + +1. _Summer_, by DURAMEAU. + +2. _Autumn_, by TARAVAL. + +3. _Spring_, by CALLET. + +4. _Winter_, by LAGRENÉE the younger, + +5. _Morning_, or day-break, by RENOU. + +The GALLERY OF APOLLO now making part of the CENTRAL MUSEUM, it would +be worthy of the government to cause its ceiling to be completed, by +having the three vacant compartments painted by skillful French +artists. + +Under the compartments, and immediately above the cornice, are twelve +medallions, which were to represent the _twelve months of the year_, +characterized by the different occupations peculiar to them: eight +only are executed, and these are the months of summer, autumn, and +winter. + +The rich borders in gilt stucco, which serve as frames to all these +paintings, the caryatides which support them, as well as the groups +of Muses, Rivers, and Children, that are distributed over the great +cornice, are worthy of remark. Not only were the most celebrated +sculptors then in France, GASPAR and BALTHAZAR MARSY, REGNAUDIN, and +GIRARDON, chosen to execute them; but their emulation was also +excited by a premium of three hundred louis, which was promised to +him who should excel. GIRARDON obtained it by the execution of the +following pieces of sculpture: + +1. The figure representing a river which is under the _Waking of the +Waters_; at the south extremity of the gallery. + +2. The two trophies of arms which are near that river. + +3. The caryatides that support one of the octagonal compartments +towards the quay, at the foot of which are seen two children; the one +armed with a sickle, the other leaning on a lion. + +4. The group of caryatides that supports the great compartment where +_Summer_ is represented, and below which is a child holding a +balance. + +5. The two grouped figures of Tragedy and Comedy, which rest on the +great cornice. + +In the GALLERY OF APOLLO will be exhibited in succession, about +twelve thousand original drawings of the Italian, Flemish, and French +schools, the greater part of which formerly belonged to the crown. +This valuable collection had been successively enriched by the choice +of those of JABAK, LANQUE, MONTARSIS, LE BRUN, CROZAT, MARIETTE, &c. +yet never rendered public. Private and partial admission to it had, +indeed, been granted; but artists and amateurs, in general, were +precluded from so rich a source of study. By inconceivable neglect, +it seemed almost to have escaped the attention of the old government, +having been for a hundred years shut up in a confined place, instead +of being exhibited to public view. + +The variety of the forms and dimensions of these drawings having +opposed the more preferable mode of arranging them by schools, and in +chronological order, the most capital drawings of each master have +been selected (for, in so extensive a collection, it could not be +supposed that they were all equally interesting); and these even are +sufficiently numerous to furnish several successive exhibitions. + +The present exhibition consists of upwards of two hundred drawings by +the most distinguished masters of the Italian school, about one +hundred by those of the Flemish, and as many, or rather more, by +those of the French. They are placed in glazed frames, so contrived +as to admit of the subjects being changed at pleasure. Among the +drawings by RAPHAEL, is the great cartoon of the Athenian School, a +valuable fragment which served for the execution of the grand +_fresco_ painting in the Vatican, the largest and finest of all his +productions. It was brought from the Ambrosian library at Milan, and +is one of the most instructive works extant for a study. + +Besides the drawings, is a frame containing a series of portraits of +illustrious personages who made a figure in the reign of Lewis XIV. +They are miniatures in enamel, painted chiefly by the celebrated +PETITOT of Geneva. + +Here are also to be seen some busts and antique vases. The most +remarkable of the latter is one of Parian marble, about twenty-one +inches in height by twelve in diameter. It is of an oval form; the +handles, cut out of the solid stone, are ornamented with four swans' +heads, and the neck with branches of ivy. On the swell is a +bas-relief, sculptured in the old Greek style, and in the centre +is an altar on which these words may be decyphered. + + [Greek: SOSIBIOS ATÆNAIOS EPOIEI.] + _Sosibios of Athens fecit._ + +This beautiful vase[2] is placed on a table of violet African +breccia, remarkable for its size, being twelve feet in length, three +feet ten inches in breadth, and upwards of three inches in thickness. + +It might, at first, be supposed that the indiscriminate admission of +persons of all ranks to a Museum, which presents so many attractive +objects, would create confusion, and occasion breaches of decorum. +But this is by no means the case. _Savoyards_, _poissardes_, and the +whole motley assemblage of the lower classes of both sexes in Paris, +behave themselves with as much propriety as the more refined +visiters; though their remarks, perhaps, may be expressed in language +less polished. In conspicuous places of the various apartments, +boards are affixed, on which is inscribed the following significant +appeal to the uncultivated mind, "_Citoyens, ne touchez à rien; mais +respectez la Propriété Nationale_." Proper persons are stationed here +and there to caution such as, through thoughtlessness or ignorance, +might not attend to the admonition. + +On the days appropriated to the accommodation of students, great +numbers are to be seen in different parts of the Museum, some mounted +on little stages, others standing or sitting, all sedulously employed +in copying the favourite object of their studies. Indeed, the epithet +CENTRAL has been applied to this establishment, in order to designate +a MUSEUM, which is to contain the choicest productions of art, and, +of course, become the _centre_ of study. Here, nothing has been +neglected that could render such an institution useful, either in a +political light, or in regard to public instruction. Its magnificence +and splendour speak to every eye, and are calculated to attract the +attention of foreigners from the four quarters of the globe; while, +as a source of improvement, it presents to students the finest models +that the arts and sciences could assemble. In a philosophical point +of view, such a Museum may be compared to a torch, whose light will +not only dispel the remnant of that bad taste which, for a century, +has predominated in the arts dependent on design, but also serve to +guide the future progress of the rising generation. + +[Footnote 1: In the great _Gallery_ of the _Louvre_ are suspended +about nine hundred and fifty pictures; which, with ninety in the +_Saloon_, extend the number of the present exhibition to one thousand +and forty.] + +[Footnote 2: Whatever may be the beauty of this vase, two others are +to be seen in Paris, which surpass it, according to the opinion of +one of the most celebrated antiquaries of the age, M. VISCONTI. They +are now in the possession of M. AUBRI, doctor of Physic, residing at +N°. 272, _Rue St. Thomas du Louvre_, but they formerly graced the +cabinet of the _Villa-Albani_ at Rome. In this apartment, Cardinal +Alessandro had assembled some of the most valuable ornaments of +antiquity. Here were to be seen the Apollo _Sauroctonos_ in bronze, +the Diana in alabaster, and the _unique_ bas-relief of the apothesis +of Hercules. By the side of such rare objects of art, these vases +attracted no less attention. To describe them as they deserve, would +lead me too far; they need only to be seen to be admired. Although +their form is antique, the execution of them is modern, and ascribed +to the celebrated sculptor, SILVIO DA VELETRI, who lived in the +beginning of the seventeenth century. Indeed, M. VISCONTI affirms +that antiquity affords not their equal; assigning as a reason that +porphyry was introduced into Rome at a period when the fine arts were +tending to their decline. Notwithstanding the hardness of the +substance, they are executed with such taste and perfection, that the +porphyry is reduced to the thinness of china.] + + + +LETTER XVIII. + +_Paris, November 17, 1801._ + +The _Louvre_, the _Tuileries_, together with the _National Fête_ in +honour of Peace, and a crowd of interesting objects, have so +engrossed our attention, that we seem to have overlooked the +_ci-devant Palais Royal_. Let us then examine that noted edifice, +which now bears the name of + +PALAIS DU TRIBUNAT. + +In 1629, Cardinal Richelieu began the construction of this palace. +When finished, in 1636, he called it the _Palais Cardinal_, a +denomination which was much criticized, as being unworthy of the +founder of the French Academy. + +Like the politic Wolsey, who gave Hampton-Court to Henry VIII, the +crafty Richelieu, in 1639, thought proper to make a present of this +palace to Lewis XIII. After the death of that king, Anne of Austria, +queen of France and regent of the kingdom, quitted the _Louvre_ to +inhabit the _Palais Cardinal_, with her sons Lewis XIV and the Duke +of Anjou. + +The first inscription was then removed, and this palace was called +_le Palais Royal_, a name which it preserved till the revolution, +when, after the new title assumed by its then owner, it was +denominated _la Maison Égalité_, till, under the consular government, +since the Tribunate have here established their sittings, it has +obtained its present appellation of _Palais du Tribunat_. + +In the sequel, Lewis XIV granted to Monsieur, his only brother, +married to Henrietta Stuart, daughter of Charles I, the enjoyment of +the _Palais Royal_, and afterwards vested the property of it in his +grandson, the Duke of Chartres. + +That prince, become Duke of Orleans, and regent of France, during the +minority of Lewis XV, resided in this palace, and (to use Voltaire's +expression) hence gave the signal of voluptuousness to the whole +kingdom. Here too, he ruled it with principles the most daring; +holding men, in general, in great contempt, and conceiving them to be +all as insidious, as servile, and as covetous as those by whom he was +surrounded. With the superiority of his character, he made a sport of +governing this mass of individuals, as if the task was unworthy of +his genius. The fact is illustrated by the following anecdote. + +At the commencement of his regency, the debts of the State were +immense, and the finances exhausted: such great evils required +extraordinary remedies; he wished to persuade the people that +paper-money was better than specie. Thousands became the dupes +of their avarice, and too soon awoke from their dream only to curse +the authors of a project which ended in their total ruin. It is almost +needless to mention that I here allude to the Mississippi bubble. + +In circumstances so critical, the Parliament of Paris thought it +their duty to make remonstrances. They accordingly sent deputies to +the regent, who was persuaded that they wished to stir up the +Parisians against him. After having listened to their harangue with +much phelgm, he gave them his answer in four words: "Go and be +d----n'd." The deputy, who had addressed him, nothing disconcerted, +instantly replied: "Sir, it is the custom of the Parliament to enter +in their registers the answers which they receive from the throne: +shall they insert this?" + +The principles of the regent's administration, which succeeded those +of Lewis XIV, form in history, a very striking shade. The French +nation, which, plastic as wax, yields to every impression, was +new-modelled in a single instant. As a rotten speck, by spreading, +contaminates the finest fruit, so was the _Palais Royal_ the corrupt +spot, whence the contagion of debauchery was propagated, even to the +remotest parts of the kingdom. + +This period, infinitely curious and interesting, paved the way to the +present manners. If the basis of morality be at this day overthrown +in France, the regency of Philip of Orleans, by completing what the +dissolute court of Lewis XIV had begun, has occasioned that rapid +change, whose influence was felt long before the revolution, and +will, in all probability, last for ages. At least, I think that such +a conclusion is exemplified by what has occurred in England since the +profligate reign of Charles II, the effects of whose example have +never been done away. + +Different circumstances have produced considerable alterations in +this palace, so that, at the present day, its numerous buildings +preserve of the first architect, LE MERCIER, no more than a small +part of the second court. + +The principal entrance of the _Palais du Tribunat_ is from the _Rue +St. Honoré_. The façade, on this side, which was constructed in 1763, +consists of two pavilions, ornamented by Doric and Ionic pillars, and +connected by a lofty stone-wall, perforated with arches, to three +grand gates, by which you enter the first court. Here, two elegant +wings present themselves, decorated with pilasters, also of the Doric +and Ionic orders, which are likewise employed for the pillars of the +avant-corps in the centre. This avant-corps is pierced with three +arches, which serve as a passage into the second court, and +correspond with the three gates before-mentioned. + +Having reached the vestibule, between the two courts, where large +Doric pillars rise, though partly concealed by a number of little +shops and stalls, you see, on the right, the handsome elliptical +stair-case, which leads to the apartments. It branches off into two +divisions at the third step, and is lighted by a lofty dome. The +balustrade of polished iron is beautiful, and is said to have cost +thirty-two workmen two years' labour. Before the revolution, +strangers repaired hither to admire the cabinet of gems and engraved +stones, the cabinet of natural history, the collection of models of +arts, trades, and manufactures, and the famous collection of +pictures, belonging to the _last_ duke of Orleans, and chiefly +assembled, at a vast expense, by his grandfather, the regent. + +This second court is larger than the first; but it still remains in +an incomplete state. The right-hand wing only is finished, and is +merely a continuation of that which we have seen in the other court. +On the left hand, is the site of the new hall intended for the +sittings of the Tribunate. Workmen are now employed in its +construction; heaps of stones and mortar are lying about, and, the +building seems to proceed with tolerable expedition. Here, in the +back-ground, is a crowd of little stalls for the sale of various +articles, such as prints, plays, fruit, and pastry. In front stand +such carriages as remain in waiting for those who may have been set +down at this end of the palace. Proceeding onward, you pass through +two parallel wooden galleries, lined on each side with shops, and +enter the formerly-enchanting regions of the + +JARDIN DU PALAIS DU TRIBUNAT. + +The old garden of the _Palais Royal_, long famous for its shady +walks, and for being the most fashionable public promenade in Paris, +had, from its centrical situation, gradually attracted to its +vicinity a considerable number of speculators, who there opened +ready-furnished hotels, coffee-houses, and shops of various +descriptions. The success of these different establishments awakened +the cupidity of its wealthy proprietor, then Duke, of Chartres, who, +conceiving that the ground might be made to yield a capital +augmentation to his income, fixed on a plan for enclosing it by a +magnificent range of buildings. + +Notwithstanding the clamours of the Parisian public, who, from long +habit, considered that they had a sort of prescriptive right to this +favourite promenade, the axe was laid to the celebrated _arbre de +Cracovie_ and other venerable trees, and their stately heads were +soon levelled to the ground. Every one murmured as if these trees had +been his own private property, and cut down against his will and +pleasure. This will not appear extraordinary, when it is considered +that, under their wide-spreading branches, which afforded a shelter +impervious to the sun and rain, politicians by day, adjusted the +balance of power, and arbiters of taste discussed the fashions of the +moment; while, by night, they presented a canopy, beneath which were +often arranged the clandestine bargains of opera-girls and other +votaries of Venus. + +After venting their spleen in vague conjectures, witty epigrams, and +lampoons, the Parisians were silent. They presently found that they +were, in general, not likely to be losers by this devastation. In +1782, the execution of the new plan was begun: in less than three +years, the present inclosure was nearly completed, and the modern +garden thrown open to the public, uniting to the advantages of the +ancient one, a thousand others more refined and concentrated. + +The form of this garden is a parallelogram, whose length is seven +hundred and two feet by three hundred in breadth, taken at its +greatest dimensions. It is bordered, on three of its sides, by new, +uniform buildings, of light and elegant architecture. Rising to an +elevation of forty-two feet, these buildings present two regular +stories, exclusively of the _mansarde_, or attic story, decorated by +festoons, bas-reliefs, and large Composite fluted pillars, bearing an +entablature in whose frieze windows are pierced. Throughout its +extent, the whole edifice is crowned by a balustrade, on the +pedestals of which vases are placed at equal distances. + +In the middle of the garden stood a most singular building, partly +subterraneous, called a _Cirque_. This circus, which was first opened +in 1789, with concerts, balls, &c. was also appropriated to more +useful objects, and, in 1792, a _Lyceum of Arts_ was here +established; but in 1797, it was consumed by fire, and its site is +now occupied by a grass-plot. On the two long sides of the garden are +planted three rows of horse-chesnut trees, not yet of sufficient +growth to afford any shade; and what is new, is a few shrubs and +flowers in inclosed compartments. The walks are of gravel, and kept +in good order. + +On the ground-floor, a covered gallery runs entirely round the +garden. The shops, &c. on this floor, as well as the apartments of +the _entresol_ above them, receive light by one hundred and eighty +porticoes, which are open towards the garden, and used to have each a +glass lantern, with reflectors, suspended in the middle of their +arch. In lieu of these, some of a less brilliant description are now +distributed on a more economical plan under the piazzas; but, at the +close of day, the rivalship of the shopkeepers, in displaying their +various commodities, creates a blaze of light which would strike a +stranger as the effect of an illumination. + +The fourth side of the garden towards the _Rue St. Honoré_ is still +occupied by a double gallery, constructed, as I have already +mentioned, of wood, which has subsisted nearly in its present state +ever since I first visited Paris in 1784. It was to have been +replaced by a colonnade for the inclosure of the two courts. This +colonnade was to have consisted of six rows of Doric pillars, +supporting a spacious picture-gallery, (intended for the whole of the +Orleans collection), which was to have constituted the fourth façade +to the garden, and have formed a covered walk, communicating with the +galleries of the other three sides. + +These galleries, whose whole circumference measures upwards of a +third of a mile, afford to the public, even in bad weather, a walk +equally agreeable and convenient, embellished, on the one side, by +the aspect of the garden, and, on the other, by the studied display +of every thing that taste and fashion can invent to captivate the +attention of passengers. + +No place in Paris, however, exhibits such a contrast to its former +attractions as this once-fashionable rendezvous. The change of its +name from _Palais Royal_ to _Maison Égalité_ conveys not to the +imagination a dissimilitude more glaring than is observable between +the present frequenters of this favourite promenade, and those who +were in the habit of flocking hither before the revolution. + +At that period, the scene was enlivened by the most brilliant and +most captivating company in the capital, both in point of exterior +and manners. At this day, the medal is exactly reversed. In lieu of +well-dressed or well-behaved persons of both sexes, this garden, +including its purlieus, presents, morning and evening, nothing but +hordes of stock-jobbers, money-brokers, gamblers, and adventurers of +every description. The females who frequent it, correspond nearly to +the character of the men; they are, for the greater part, of the most +debauched and abandoned class: for a Laïs of _bon ton_ seldom +ventures to shew herself among this medley of miscreants. + +In the crowd, may be occasionally remarked a few strangers attracted +by curiosity, and other individuals of respectable appearance called +hither on business, as well as some inoffensive newsmongers, +resorting to the coffee-houses to read the papers. But, in general, +the great majority, of the company, now seen here, is of a cast so +extremely low, that no decent woman, whether married or single, +thinks of appearing in a place where she would run a risk of being +put out of countenance in passing alone, even in the daytime. In the +evening, the company is of a still worse complexion; and the +concourse becomes so great under the piazzas, particularly when the +inclemency of the weather drives people out of the garden, that it is +sometimes difficult to cross through the motley assemblage. At the +conclusion of the performances in the neighbouring theatres, there is +a vast accession of the inferior order of nymphs of the Cyprian +corps; and then, amorous conversation and dalliance reach the summit +of licentious freedom. + +The greater part of the political commotions which have, at different +times, convulsed Paris, took their rise in the _ci-devant Palais +Royal_, or it has, in some shape, been their theatre. In this palace +too originated the dreadful reverse of fortune which the queen +experienced; and, indeed, when the cart in which her majesty was +carried to the scaffold, passed before the gates of this edifice, she +was unable to repress a sign of indignation. + +All writers who have spoken of the inveterate hatred, which existed +between the queen and M. d'Orléans, have ascribed it to despised +love, whose pangs, as Shakspeare tells, us, are not patiently +endured. Some insist that the duke, enamoured of the charms of the +queen, hazarded a declaration, which her majesty not only received +with disdain, but threatened to inform the king of in case of a +renewal of his addresses. Others affirm that the queen, at one time, +shewed that the duke was not indifferent to her, and that, on a hint +being given to him to that effect, he replied: "Every one may be +ambitious to please the queen, except myself. Our interests are too +opposite for Love ever to unite them." On this foundation is built +the origin of the animosity which, in the end, brought both these +great personages to the scaffold. + +Whatever may have been the motive which gave rise to it, certain it +is that they never omitted any opportunity of persecuting each other. +The queen had no difficulty in pourtraying the duke as a man addicted +to the most profligate excesses, and in alienating from him the mind +of the king: he, on his side, found it as easy, by means of +surreptitious publications, to represent her as a woman given to +illicit enjoyments; so that, long before the revolution, the +character both of the queen and the duke were well known to the +public; and their example tended not a little to increase the general +dissoluteness of morals. The debaucheries of the one served as a +model to all the young rakes of fashion; while the levity of the +other, was imitated by what were termed the _amiable_ women of the +capital. + +After his exile in 1788, the hatred of M. d'Orléans towards the queen +roused that ambition which he inherited from his ancestors. In +watching her private conduct, in order to expose her criminal +weaknesses, he discovered a certain political project, which gave +birth to the idea of his forming a plan of a widely-different nature. +Hitherto he had given himself little trouble about State affairs; +but, in conjunction with his confidential friends, he now began to +calculate the means of profiting by the distress of his country. + +The first shocks of the revolution had so electrified the greater +part of the Parisians, that, in regard to the Duke of Orleans, they +imperceptibly passed from profound contempt to blind infatuation. His +palace became the rendezvous of all the malcontents of the court, and +his garden the place of assembly of all the demagogues. His exile +appeared a public calamity, and his recall was celebrated as a +triumph. Had he possessed a vigour of intellect, and a daring equal +to the situation of leader of a party, there is little doubt that he +might have succeeded in his plan, and been declared regent. His +immense income, amounting to upwards of three hundred thousand pounds +sterling, was employed to gain partisans, and secure the attachment +of the people. + +After the taking of the Bastille, it is admitted that his party was +sufficiently powerful to effect a revolution in his favour; but his +pusillanimity prevailed over his ambition. The active vigilance of +the queen thwarting his projects, he resolved to get rid of her; and +in that intention was the irruption of the populace directed to +Versailles. This fact seems proved: for, on some one complaining +before him in 1792, that the revolution proceeded too slowly. "It +would have been terminated long ago," replied he, "had the queen been +sacrificed on the 5th of October 1789." + +Two months before the fall of the throne, M. d'Orléans still reckoned +to be able to attain his wishes; but he soon found himself +egregiously mistaken. The factions, after mutually accusing each +other of having him for their chief, ended by deserting him; and, +after the death of the king, he became a stranger to repose, and, for +the second time, an object of contempt. The necessity of keeping up +the exaltation of the people, had exhausted his fortune, great as it +was; and want of money daily detached different agents from his +party. His plate, his pictures, his furniture, his books, his +trinkets, his gems, all went to purchase the favour, and at length +the protection, of the Maratists. Not having it in his power to +satisfy their cupidity, he opened loans on all sides, and granted +illusory mortgages. Having nothing more left to dispose of, he was +reduced, as a last resource, to sell his body-linen. In this very +bargain was he engaged, when he was apprehended and sent to +Marseilles. + +Although acquitted by the criminal tribunal, before which he was +tried in the south of France, he was still detained there in prison. +At first, he had shed tears, and given himself up to despair, but now +hope once more revived his spirits, and he availed himself of the +indulgence granted him, by giving way to his old habits of +debauchery. On being brought to Paris after six months' confinement, +he flattered himself that he should experience the same lenity in the +capital. The jailer of the _Conciergerie,_ not knowing whether M. +d'Orléans would leave that prison to ascend the throne or the +scaffold, treated him with particular respect; and he himself was +impressed with the idea that he would soon resume an ascendency in +public affairs. But, on his second trial, he was unanimously declared +guilty of conspiring against the unity and indivisibility of the +Republic, and condemned to die, though no proof whatever of his guilt +was produced to the jury. One interrogatory put to him is deserving +of notice. It was this: "Did you not one day say to a deputy: _What +will you ask of me when I am king?_ And did not the deputy reply: _I +will ask you for a pistol to blow out your brains?_" + +Every one who was present at the condemnation of M. d'Orléans, and +saw him led to the guillotine affirms that if he never shewed courage +before, he did at least on that day. On hearing the sentence, he +called out: "Let it be executed directly." From the revolutionary +tribunal he was conducted straight to the scaffold, where, +notwithstanding the reproaches and imprecations which accompanied him +all the way, he met his fate with unshaken firmness. + + + +LETTER XIX. + +_Paris, November 18, 1801._ + +But if the _ci-devant Palais Royal_ has been the mine of political +explosions, so it still continues to be the epitome of all the trades +in Paris. Under the arcades, on the ground-floor, here are, as +formerly, shops of jewellers, haberdashers, artificial florists, +milliners, perfumers, print-sellers, engravers, tailors, shoemakers, +hatters, furriers, glovers, confectioners, provision-merchants, +woollen-drapers, mercers, cutlers, toymen, money-changers, and +booksellers, together with several coffee-houses, and +lottery-offices, all in miscellaneous succession. + +Among this enumeration, the jewellers' shops are the most attractive +in point of splendour. The name of the proprietor is displayed in +large letters of artificial diamonds, in a conspicuous compartment +facing the door. This is a sort of signature, whose brilliancy +eclipses all other names, and really dazzles the eyes of the +spectators. But at the same time it draws the attention both of the +learned and the illiterate: I will venture to affirm that the name of +one of these jewellers is more frequently spelt and pronounced than +that of any great man recorded in history, either ancient or modern. + +With respect to the price of the commodities exposed for sale in the +_Palais du Tribunat_, it is much the same as in _Bond Street_, you +pay one third at least for the idea of fashion annexed to the name of +the place where you make the purchase, though the quality of the +article may be nowise superior to what you might procure elsewhere. +As in Bond Street too, the rents in this building are high, on which +account the shopkeepers are, in some measure, obliged to charge +higher than those in other parts of the town. Not but I must do them +the justice to acknowledge that they make no scruple to avail +themselves of every prejudice formerly entertained in favour of this +grand emporium, in regard to taste, novelty, &c. by a still further +increase of their prices. No small advantage to the shopkeepers +established here is the chance custom, arising from such a variety of +trades being collected together so conveniently, all within the same +inclosure. A person resorting hither to procure one thing, is sure to +be reminded of some other want, which, had not the article presented +itself to his eye, would probably have escaped his recollection; and, +indeed, such is the thirst of gain, that several tradesmen keep a +small shop under these piazzas, independently of a large warehouse in +another quarter of Paris. + +Pamphlets and other ephemeral productions usually make their first +appearance in the _Palais du Tribunat_; and strangers may rely on +being plagued by a set of fellows who here hawk about prohibited +publications, of the most immoral tendency, embellished with +correspondent engravings; such as _Justine, ou les malheurs de la +vertu, Les quarante manières, &c._ They seldom, I am told, carry the +publication about them, for fear of being unexpectedly apprehended, +but keep it at some secret repository hard by, whence they fetch it +in an instant. It is curious to see with what adroitness these +vagrants elude the vigilance of the police, I had scarcely set my +foot in this building before a Jew-looking fellow, coming close to +me, whispered in my ear: "_Monsieur veut-il la vie polissonne de +Madame--------?_" Madame who do you think? You will stare when I tell +you to fill up the blank with the name of her who is now become the +first female personage in France? I turned round with astonishment; +but the ambulating book-vender had vanished, in consequence, as I +conclude, of being observed by some _mouchard._ Thus, what little +virtue may remain in the mind of youth is contaminated by precept, as +well as example; and the rising generation is in a fair way of being +even more corrupted than that which has preceded it. + + "_Ætas parentum, pejor avis, tulit + Nos nequiores, mox daturos + Progeniem vitiosiorem._" + +Besides the shops, are some auction-rooms, where you may find any +article of wearing apparel or household furniture, from a lady's wig +_à la Caraculla_ to a bed _à la Grecque:_ here are as many puffers as +in a mock auction in London; and should you be tempted to bid, by the +apparent cheapness of the object put up for sale, it is fifty to one +that you soon repent of your bargain. Not so with the _magazins de +confiance à prix fixé_, where are displayed a variety of articles, +marked at a fixed price, from which there is no abatement. + +These establishments are extremely convenient, not only to ingenious +mechanics, who have invented or improved a particular production of +art, of which they wish to dispose, but also to purchasers. You walk +in, and if any article strikes your fancy, you examine it at your +ease; you consider the materials, the workmanship, and lastly the +price, without being hurried by a loquacious shopkeeper into a +purchase which you may shortly regret. A commission of from five to +one half per cent, in graduated proportions, according to the value +of the article, is charged to the seller, for warehouse-room and all +other expenses. + +Such is the arrangement of the ground-floor; the apartments on the +first floor are at present occupied by _restaurateurs_, exhibitions +of various kinds, billiard-tables, and _académies de jeu_, or public +gaming-tables, where all the passions are let loose, and all the +torments of hell assembled. + +The second story is let out in lodgings, furnished or unfurnished, to +persons of different descriptions, particularly to the priestesses of +Venus. The rooms above, termed _mansardes_, in the French +architectural dialect, are mostly inhabited by old batchelors, who +prefer economy to show; or by artists, who subsist by the employment +of their talents. These chambers are spacious, and though the +ceilings are low, they receive a more uninterrupted circulation of +fresh air, than the less exalted regions. + +Over the _mansardes_, in the very roof, are nests of little rooms, or +cock-lofts, resembling, I am told, the cells of a beehive. Journeymen +shopkeepers, domestics, and distressed females are said to be the +principal occupiers of these aërial abodes. + +I had nearly forgot to mention a species of apartment little known in +England: I mean the _entresol_, which is what we should denominate a +low story, (though here not so considered), immediately above the +ground-floor, and directly under the first-floor. In this building, +some of the _entresols_ are inhabited by the shopkeepers below; some, +by women of no equivocal calling, who throw out their lures to the +idle youths sauntering under the arcades; and others again are now +become _maisons de pret_, where pawnbrokers exercise their usurious +dealings. + +In the _Palais du Tribunat_, as you may remark, not an inch of space +is lost; every hole and corner being turned to account: here and +there, the cellars even: are converted into scenes of gaiety and +diversion, where the master of the house entertains his customers +with a succession of vocal and instrumental music, while they are +taking such refreshments as he furnishes. + +This speculation, which has, by all accounts, proved extremely +profitable, was introduced in the early part of the revolution. Since +that period, other speculations, engendered by the luxury of the +times, have been set on foot within the precincts of this palace. Of +two of these, now in full vigour and exercise, I must say a few +words, as they are of a nature somewhat curious. + +The one is a _cabinet de décrotteur_, where the art of blacking shoes +is carried to a pitch of perfection hitherto unknown in this country. + +Not many years ago, it was common, in Paris, to see counsellors, +abbés, and military officers, as well as _petits-maîtres_ of every +denomination, full dressed, that is, with their hat under their arm, +their sword by their side, and their hair in a bag, standing in the +open street, with one leg cocked up on a stool, while a rough +Savoyard or Auvergnat hastily cleaned their shoes with a coarse +mixture of lamp-black and rancid oil. At the present day, the +_décrotteurs_ or shoe-blacks still exercise their profession on the +_Pont Neuf_ and in other quarters; but, as a refinement of the art, +there is also opened, at each of the principal entrances of the +_Palais du Tribunat_, a _cabinet de décrotteur_, or small apartment, +where you are invited to take a chair, and presented with the daily +papers. + +The artist, with due care and expedition, first removes the dirt from +your shoes or boots with a sponge occasionally moistened in water, +and by means of several pencils, of different sizes, not unlike those +of a limner, he then covers them with a jetty varnish, rivaling even +japan in lustre. This operation he performs with a gravity and +consequence that can scarcely fail to excite laughter. Yet, according +to the trite proverb, it is not the customer who ought to indulge in +mirth, but the _artist_. Although his price is much dearer than that +demanded by the other professors of this art, his cabinet is seldom +empty from morning to night; and, by a simple calculation, his pencil +is found to produce more than that of some good painters of the +modern French school. + +At the first view of the matter, it should appear that the other +speculation might have been hit on by any man with a nose to his +face; but, on more mature consideration, one is induced to think that +its author was a person of some learning, and well read in ancient +history. He, no doubt, took the hint from VESPASIAN. As that emperor +blushed not to make the urine of the citizens of Rome a source of +revenue, so the learned projector in question rightly judged that, in +a place of such resort as the _Palais du Tribunat_, he might, without +shame or reproach, levy a small tax on the Parisians, by providing +for their convenience in a way somewhat analogous. His penetration is +not unhandsomely rewarded; for he derives an income of 12,000 francs, +or £500 sterling, from his _cabinets d'aisance_. + +Since political causes first occasioned the shuting up of the old +_Théâtre Français_ in the _Faubourg St. Germain_, now reduced to a +shell by fire, Melpomene and Thalia have taken up their abode in the +south-west angle of the _Palais du Tribunat_, and in its north-west +corner is another theatre, on a smaller scale, where Momus holds his +court; so that be you seriously, sentimentally, or humorously +disposed, you may, without quitting the shelter of the piazzas, +satisfy your inclination. Tragedy, Comedy, and Farce all lie before +you within the purlieus of this extraordinary edifice. + +To sum up all the conveniences of the _Palais du Tribunat_, suffice +it to say, that almost every want, natural or artificial, almost +every appetite, gross or refined, might be gratified without passing +its limits; for, while the extravagant voluptuary is indulging in all +the splendour of Asiatic luxury, the parsimonious sensualist need not +depart unsatisfied. + +Placed in the middle of Paris, the _Palais du Tribunat_ has been +aptly compared to a sink of vice, whose contagious effects would +threaten society with the greatest evils, were not the scandalous +scenes of the capital here concentrated into one focus. It has also +been mentioned, by the same writer, Mercier, as particularly worthy +of remark, that, since this building is become a grand theatre, where +cupidity, gluttony, and licentiousness shew themselves under every +form and excess, several other quarters of Paris are, in a manner, +purified by the accumulation of vices which flourish in its centre. + +Whether or not this assertion be strictly correct, I will not pretend +to determine: but, certain it is that the _Palais du Tribunat_ is a +vortex of dissipation where many a youth is ingulfed. The natural +manner in which this may happen I shall endeavour briefly to explain, +by way of conclusion to this letter. + +A young Frenchman, a perfect stranger in Paris, arrives there from +the country, and, wishing to equip himself in the fashion, hastens to +the _Palais du Tribunat_, where he finds wearing apparel of every +description on the _ground-floor_: prompted by a keen appetite, he +dines at a _restaurateur's_ on the _first-floor_: after dinner, urged +by mere curiosity, perhaps, if not decoyed by some sharper on the +look-out for novices, he visits a public gaming-table on the same +story. Fortune not smiling on him, he retires; but, at that very +moment, he meets, on the landing-place, a captivating damsel, who, +like Virgil's Galatea, flies to be pursued; and the inexperienced +youth, after ascending another flight of stairs, is, on the +_second-floor_, ushered into a brothel. Cloyed or disgusted there, +he is again induced to try the humour of the fickle goddess, and +repairs once more to the gaming-table, till, having lost all his +money, he is under the necessity of descending to the _entresol_ +to pawn his watch, before he can even procure a lodging in a +_garret_ above. + +What other city in Europe can boast of such an assemblage of +accommodation? Here, under the same roof, a man is, in the space of a +few minutes, as perfectly equipped from top to toe, as if he had all +the first tradesmen in London at his command; and shortly after, +without setting his foot into the street, he is as completely +stripped, as if he had fallen into the hands of a gang of robbers. + +To cleanse this Augæan stable, would, no doubt, be a Herculean +labour. For that purpose, Merlin (of Douay), when Minister of the +police, proposed to the Directory to convert the whole of the +buildings of the _ci-devant Palais Royal_ into barracks. This was +certainly striking at the root of the evil; but, probably, so bold a +project was rejected, lest its execution, in those critical times, +should excite the profligate Parisians to insurrection. + + + +LETTER XX. + +_Paris, November 20, 1801._ + +One of the private entertainments here in great vogue, and which is +understood to mark a certain pre-eminence in the _savoir-vivre_ of +the present day, is a nocturnal repast distinguished by the +insignificant denomination of a + +THÉ. + +A stranger might, in all probability, be led to suppose that he was +invited to a tea-drinking party, when he receives a note couched in +the following terms: + +_"Madame R------ prie Monsieur B--------- de lui faire l'honneur de +venir au thé quelle doit donner le 5 de ce mois."_ + +Considering in that light a similar invitation which I received, I +was just on the point of sending an apology, when I was informed that +a _thé_ was nothing more or less than a sort of rout, followed by +substantial refreshments, and generally commencing after the +evening's performance was ended at the principal theatres. + +On coming out of the opera-house then the other night, I repaired to +the lady's residence in question, and arriving there about twelve +o'clock, found that I had stumbled on the proper hour. As usual, +there were cards, but for those only disposed to play; for, as this +lady happened not to be under the necessity of recurring to the +_bouillotte_ as a financial resource, she gave herself little or no +concern about the card-tables. Being herself a very agreeable, +sprightly woman, she had invited a number of persons of both sexes of +her own character, so that the conversation was kept up with infinite +vivacity till past one o'clock, when tea and coffee were introduced. +These were immediately followed by jellies, sandwiches, pâtés, and a +variety of savoury viands, in the style of a cold supper, together +with different sorts of wines and liqueurs. In the opinion of some of +the Parisian sybarites, however, no _thé_ can be complete without the +addition of an article, which is here conceived to be a perfect +imitation of fashionable English cheer. This is hot punch. + +It was impossible for me to refuse the cheerful and engaging _dame du +logis_ to taste her _ponche_, and, in compliment to me as an +Englishman, she presented me with a glass containing at least a +treble allowance. Not being overfond of punch, I would willingly have +relinquished the honour of drinking her health in so large a portion, +apprehending that this beverage might, in quality, resemble that of +the same name which I had tasted here a few evenings ago in one of +the principal coffeehouses. The latter, in fact, was a composition of +new rum, which reminded me of the trash of that kind distilled in New +England, acidulated with rotten lemons, sweetened with capillaire, +and increased by a _quantum sufficit_ of warm water. My hostess's +punch, on the contrary, was made of the best ingredients, agreeably +to the true standard; in a word, it was proper lady's punch, that is, +hot, sweet, sour, and strong. It was distributed in tea-pots, of +beautiful porcelaine, which, independently of keeping it longer warm, +were extremely convenient for pouring it out without spilling. Thus +concluded the entertainment. + +About half past two o'clock the party broke up, and I returned home, +sincerely regretting the change in the mode of life of the Parisians. + +Before the revolution, the fashionable hour of dinner in Paris was +three o'clock, or at latest four: public places then began early; the +curtain at the grand French opera drew up at a quarter past five. At +the present day, the workman dines at two; the tradesman, at three; +the clerk in a public office, at four; the rich upstart, the +money-broker, the stock-jobber, the contractor, at five; the banker, +the legislator, the counsellor of state, at six; and the ministers, +in general, at seven, nay not unfrequently at eight. + +Formerly, when the performance at the opera, and the other principal +theatres, was ended at nine o'clock, or a quarter past, people of +fashion supped at ten or half after; and a man who went much into +public, and kept good company, might retire peaceably to rest by +midnight. In three-fourths of the houses in Paris, there is now no +such meal as supper, except on the occasion of a ball, when it is +generally a mere scramble. This, I presume, is one reason why +substantial breakfasts are so much in fashion. + +"_Déjeûners froids et chauds_," is an inscription which now generally +figures on the exterior of a Parisian coffeehouse, beside that of +"_Thé à l'Anglaise, Café à la crême, Limonade, &c_." Solids are here +the taste of the times. Two ladies, who very gallantly invited +themselves to breakfast at my apartments the other morning, were +ready to turn the house out of the window, when they found that I +presented to them nothing more than tea, coffee, and chocolate. I was +instantly obliged to provide cold fowl, ham, oysters, white wine, &c. +I marvel not at the strength and vigour of these French belles. In +appetite, they would cope with an English ploughman, who had just +turned up an acre of wholesome land on an empty stomach. + +Now, though a _thé_ may be considered as a substitute for a supper, +it cannot, in point of agreeableness, be compared to a _petit +souper_. If a man must sup, and I am no advocate for regular suppers, +these were the suppers to my fancy. A select number of persons, well +assorted, assembled at ten o'clock, after the opera was concluded, +and spent a couple of hours in a rational manner. Sometimes a _petit +souper_ consisted of a simple _tête-à-tête_, sometimes of a _partie +quarrée_, or the number was varied at pleasure. But still, in a +_petit souper_, not only much gaiety commonly prevailed, but also a +certain _épanchement de coeur_, which animated the conversation to +such a degree as to render a party of this description the _acme_ of +social intercourse, "the feast of reason and the flow of soul." + +Under the old _régime_, not a man was there in office, from the +_ministre d'état_ to the _commis_, who did not think of making +himself amends for the fatigues of the morning by a _petit souper_: +these _petits soupers_, however, were, in latter times, carried to an +excessive pitch of luxurious extravagance. But for refinements +attempted in luxury, though, I confess, of a somewhat dissolute +nature, our countryman eclipsed all the French _bons vivans_ in +originality of conception. + +Being in possession of an ample fortune, and willing to enjoy it +according to his fancy, he purchased in Paris a magnificent house, +but constructed on a small scale, where every thing that the most +refined luxury could suggest was assembled. The following is the +account given by one of his friends, who had been an eye-witness to +his manner of living. + +"Mr. B---- had made it a rule to gratify his five senses to the +highest degree of enjoyment of which they were susceptible. An +exquisite table, perfumed apartments, the charms of music and +painting; in a word, every thing most enchanting that nature, +assisted by art, could produce, successively flattered his sight, his +taste, his smell, his hearing, and his feeling. + +"In a superb saloon, whither he conducted me," says this gentleman, +"were six young beauties, dressed in an extraordinary manner, whose +persons, at first sight, did not appear unknown to me: it struck me +that I had seen their faces more than once, and I was accordingly +going to address them, when Mr. B----, smiling at my mistake, +explained to me the cause of it." "I have, in my amours," said he, "a +particular fancy. The choicest beauty of Circassia would have ho +merit in my eyes, did she not resemble the portrait of some woman, +celebrated in past ages: and while lovers set great value on a +miniature which faithfully exhibits the features of their mistress, I +esteem mine only in proportion to their resemblance to ancient +portraits. + +"Conformably to this idea," continued Mr. B----, "I have caused the +intendant of my pleasures to travel all over Europe, with select +portraits, or engravings, copied from the originals. He has succeeded +in his researches, as you see, since you have conceived that you +recognized these ladies on whom you have never before set your eyes; +but whose likenesses you may, undoubtedly, have met with. Their dress +must have contributed to your mistake: they all wear the attire of +the personage they represent; for I wish their whole person to be +picturesque. By these means, I have travelled back several centuries, +and am in possession of beauties whom time had placed at a great +distance." + +"Supper was served up. Mr. B---- seated himself between Mary, queen +of Scots, and Anne Bullein. I placed myself opposite to him," +concludes the gentleman, "having beside me Ninon de l'Enclos, and +Gabrielle d'Estrées. We also had the company of the fair Rosamond and +Nell Gwynn; but at the head of the table was a vacant elbow-chair, +surmounted by a canopy, and destined for Cleopatra, who was coming +from Egypt, and of whose arrival Mr. B---- was in hourly +expectation." + + + +LETTER XXI. + +_Paris, November 21, 1801._ + +Often as we have heard of the extraordinary number of places of +public entertainment in Paris, few, if any, persons in England have +an idea of its being so considerable as it is, even at the present +moment. But, in 1799, at the very time when we were told over and +over again in Parliament, that France was unable to raise the +necessary supplies for carrying on the war, and would, as a matter of +course, be compelled not only to relinquish her further projects of +aggrandisement, but to return to her ancient territorial limits; at +that critical period, there existed in Paris, and its environs, no +less than seventy + +PUBLIC PLACES OF VARIOUS DESCRIPTIONS. + +Under the old _régime_, nothing like this number was ever known. Such +an almost incredible variety of amusements is really a phenomenon, in +the midst of a war, unexampled in its consumption of blood and +treasure, It proves that, whatever may have been the public distress, +there was at least a great _show_ of private opulence. Indeed I have +been informed that, at the period alluded to, a spirit of +indifference, prodigality, and dissipation, seemed to pervade every +class of society. Whether placed at the bottom or the top of +Fortune's wheel, a thirst of gain and want of economy were alike +conspicuous among all ranks of people. Those who strained every nerve +to obtain riches, squandered them with equal profusion. + +No human beings on earth can be more fond of diversion than the +Parisians. Like the Romans of old, they are content if they have but +_panem et circenses_, which a Frenchman would render by _spectacles +et de quoi manger_. However divided its inhabitants may be on +political subjects, on the score of amusement at least the Republic +is one and indivisible. In times of the greatest scarcity, many a +person went dinnerless to the theatre, eating whatever scrap he could +procure, and consoling himself by the idea of being amused for the +evening, and at the same time saving at home the expense of fire and +candle. + +The following list of public places, which I have transcribed for +your satisfaction, was communicated to me by a person of veracity; +and, as far as it goes, its correctness has been confirmed by my own +observation. Although it falls short of the number existing here two +years ago, it will enable you to judge of the ardour still prevalent +among the Parisians, for "running at the ring of pleasure." Few of +these places are shut up, except for the winter; and new ones succeed +almost daily to those which are finally closed. However, for the sake +of perspicuity, I shall annex the letter S to such as are intended +chiefly for summer amusement. + +1. _Théâtre des Arts, Rue de la Loi_. + +2. _------- Français, Rue de la Loi._ + +3. _------- Feydeau, Rue Feydeau._ + +4. _------- Louvois, Rue de Louvois._ + +5. _------- Favart,_ now _Opéra Buffa._ + +6. _------- de la Porte St. Martin._ + +7. _------- de la Société Olympique_ (late _Opéra Buffa.)_ + +8. _------- du Vaudeville, Rue de Chartres._ + +9. _------- Montansier, Palais du Tribunat._ + +10. _------- de l'Ambigu Comique, Boulevard du Temple._ + +11. _------- de la Gaiété, Boulevard du Temple._ + +12. _------- des Jeunes Artistes, Boulevard St. Martin._ + +13. _------- des Jeunes Elèves, Rue de Thionville._ + +14. _------- des Délassemens Comiques, Boulevard du Temple._ + +15. _------- sans Prétension, Boulevard du Temple._ + +16. _------- du Marais, Rue Culture Ste. Catherine._ + +17. _------- de la Cité, vis-à-vis le Palais de Justice._ + +18. _------- des Victoires, Rue du Bacq._ + +19. _------- de Molière, Rue St. Martin._ + +20. _------- de l'Estrapade._ + +21. _------- de Mareux, Rue St. Antoine._ + +22. _------- des Aveugles, Rue St. Denis._ + +23. _------- de la Rue St. Jean de Beauvais._ + +24. _Bal masqué de l'Opéra, Rue de la Loi._ + +25. _---------- de l'Opéra Buffa, Rue de la Victoire._ + +26. _Bal du Sallon des Étrangers, Rue Grange Batelière._ + +27. _--- de l'Hôtel de Salm, Rue de Lille, Faubourg St. Germain._ + +28. _--- de la Rue Michaudière._ + +29. _Soirées amusantes de l'Hôtel Longueville, Place du Carrousel._ + +30. _Veillées de la Cité, vis-à-vis le Palais de Justice._ + +31. _Phantasmagorie de Robertson, Cour des Capucines._ + +32. _Concert de Feydeau._ + +33. _Ranelagh au bois de Boulogne._ + +34. _Tivoli, Rue de Clichy_, S. + +35. _Frascati, Rue de la Loi_, S. + +36. _Idalie_, S. + +37. _Hameau de Chantilly, aux Champs Élysées._ + +38. _Paphos, Boulevard du Temple._ + +39. _Vauxhall d'hiver._ + +40. _-------- d'été_, S. + +41. _-------- à Mousseaux_, S. + +42. _-------- à St. Cloud_, S. + +43. _-------- au Petit Trianon_, S. + +44. _Jardin de l'hôtel Biron, Rue de Varenne_, S. + +45. _------ Thélusson, Chaussée d'Antin_, S. + +40. _------ Marboeuf, Grille de Chaillot_, S. + +47. _------ de l'hôtel d'Orsay_, S. + +48. _Fêtes champêtres de Bagatelle_, S. + +49. _La Muette, à l'entrée du Bois de Boulogne_, S. + +50. _Colisée, au Parc des Sablons_, S. + +51. _Amphithéâtre d'équitation de Franconi, aux Capucines._ + +52. _Panorama, même lieu._ + +53. _Exhibition de Curtius, Boulevard du Temple._ + +54. _Expériences Physiques, au Palais du Tribunat._ + +55. _La Chaumière, aux Nouveaux Boulevards._ + +56. _Cabinet de démonstration de Physiologie et de Pathologie, au +Palais du Tribunat, No. 38, au premier._ + +Although, previously to the revolution, the taste for dramatic +amusements had imperceptibly spread, Paris could then boast of no +more than three principal theatres, exclusively of _l'Opéra Buffa_ +introduced in 1788. These were _l'Opéra les Français_, and _les +Italiens_, which, with six inferior ones, called _petits spectacles_, +brought the whole of the theatres to ten in number. The subaltern +houses were incessantly checked in their career by the privileges +granted to the _Comédie Française_, which company alone enjoyed the +right to play first-rate productions: it also possessed that of +censorship, and sometimes exercised it in the most despotic manner. +Authors, ever in dispute with the comedians, who dictated the law to +them, solicited, but in vain, the opening of a second French theatre. +The revolution took place, and the unlimited number of theatres was +presently decreed. A great many new ones were opened; but the +attraction of novelty dispersing the amateurs, the number of +spectators did not always equal the expectation of the managers; and +the profits, divided among so many competitors, ceased to be +sufficiently productive for the support of every establishment of +this description. The consequence was, that several of them were soon +reduced to a state of bankruptcy. + +Three theatres of the first and second rank have been destroyed by +fire within these two years, yet upwards of twenty are at present +open, almost every night, exclusively of several associations of +self-denominated _artistes-amateurs._ + +Amidst this false glare of dramatic wealth, theatres of the first +rank have imperceptibly declined, and at last fallen. It comes not +within my province or intention to seek the causes of this in the +defects of their management; but the fact is notorious. The _Théâtres +Favart_ and _Feydeau_, at each of which French comic operas were +chiefly represented, have at length been obliged to unite the +strength of their talents, and the disgrace which they have +experienced, has not affected any of those inferior playhouses where +subaltern performers establish their success on an assemblage of +scenes more coarse, and language more unpolished. + +At the present moment, the government appear to have taken this +decline of the principal theatres into serious consideration. It is, +I understand, alike to be apprehended, that they may concern +themselves too little or too much in their welfare. Hitherto the +persons charged with the difficult task of upholding the falling +theatres of the first rank, have had the good sense to confine their +measures to conciliation; but, of late, it has been rumoured that the +stage is to be subjected to its former restrictions. The benefit +resulting to the art itself and to the public, from a rivalship of +theatres, is once more called in question: and some people even go so +far as to assert that, with the exception of a few abuses, the +direction of the _Gentils-hommes de la chambre_ was extremely good: +thence it should seem that the only difficulty is to find these lords +of the bed-chamber, if there be any still in being, in order to +restore to them their dramatic sceptre.[1] + +Doubtless, the liberty introduced by the revolution has been, in many +respects, abused, and in too many, perhaps, relative to places of +public amusement. But must it, on that account, be entirely lost to +the stage, and falling into a contrary excess, must recourse be had +to arbitrary measures, which might also be abused by those to whose +execution they were intrusted? The unlimited number of theatres may +be a proper subject for the interference of the government: but as to +the liberty of the theatres, included in the number that may be fixed +on to represent pieces of every description, such only excepted as +may be hurtful to morals, seems to be a salutary and incontestable +principle. This it is that, by disengaging the French comic opera +from the narrow sphere to which it was confined, has, in a great +measure, effected a musical revolution, at which all persons of taste +must rejoice, by introducing on that stage the harmonic riches of + +Italy. This too it is that has produced, on theatres of the second +and third rank, pieces which are neither deficient in regularity, +connexion, representation, nor decoration. The effect of such a +principle was long wanted here before the revolution, when the +independent spirit of dramatic authors was fettered by the +procrastinations of a set of privileged comedians, who discouraged +them by ungracious refusals, or disgusted them by unjust preferences. +Hence, the old adage in France that, when an author had composed a +good piece, he had performed but half his task; this was true, as the +more difficult half, namely, the getting it read and represented, +still remained to be accomplished. + +As for the multiplicity of playhouses, it certainly belongs to the +government to limit their number, not by privileges which might be +granted through favour, or obtained, perhaps, for money. The taste of +the public for theatrical diversions being known, the population +should first be considered, as it is that which furnishes both money +and spectators. It would be easy to ascertain the proportion between +the population of the capital and the number of theatres which it +ought to comprise. Public places should be free as to the species of +amusement, but limited in their number, so as not to exceed the +proportion which the population can bear. The houses would then be +constantly well attended, and the proprietors, actors, authors, and +all those concerned in their success, secure against the consequences +of failure, and the true interest of the art be likewise promoted. In +a word, neither absolute independence, nor exclusive privilege should +prevail; but a middle course be adopted, in order to fix the fate of +those great scenic establishments, which, by forming so essential a +part of public diversion, have a proportionate influence on the +morals of the nation. + +I have been led, by degrees, into these observations, not only from a +review of the decline of some of the principal playhouses here, but +also from a conviction that their general principle is applicable to +every other capital in Europe. What, for example, can be more absurd +than, in the dog-days, when room and air are particularly requisite, +that the lovers of dramatic amusement in the British metropolis are +to be crammed into a little theatre in the Haymarket, and stewed year +after year, as in a sweating-room at a bagnio, because half a century +ago an exclusive privilege was inconsiderately granted? + +The playhouses here, in general, have been well attended this winter, +particularly the principal ones; but, in Paris, every rank has not +exactly its theatre as at a ball. From the _spectacles_ on the +_Boulevards_ to those of the first and second rank, there is a +mixture of company. Formerly, the lower classes confined themselves +solely to the former; at present, they visit the latter. An increase +of wages has enabled the workman to gratify his inclination for the +indulgence of a species of luxury; and, by a sort of instinct, he now +and then takes a peep at those scenes of which he before entertained, +from hearsay, but an imperfect idea. + +If you wish to see a new or favourite piece, you must not neglect to +secure a seat in proper time; for, on such occasions, the house is +full long before the rising of the curtain. As to taking places in +the manner we do in England, there is no such arrangement to be made, +except, indeed, you choose to take a whole box, which is expensive. +In that case you pay for it at the time you engage it, and it is kept +locked the whole evening, or till you and your party, make your +appearance.[2] + +At all the _spectacles_ in Paris, you are literally kept on the +outside of the house till you have received a ticket, in exchange for +your money, through an aperture in the exterior wall. Within a few +paces of the door of the principal theatres are two receiver's +offices, which are no sooner open, than candidates for admission +begin to form long ranks, extending from the portico into the very +street, and advance to them two abreast in regular succession. A +steady sentinel, posted at the aperture, repeats your wishes to the +receiver, and in a mild, conciliating manner, facilitates their +accomplishment. Other sentinels are stationed for the preservation of +order, under the immediate eye of the officer, who sees that every +one takes his turn to obtain tickets: however, it is not uncommon, +for forestallers to procure a certain number of them, especially at +the representation of a new or favourite piece, and offer them +privately at a usurious price which many persons are glad to pay +rather than fall into the rear of the ranks. + +The method I always take to avoid this unpleasant necessity, I will +recommend to you as a very simple one, which may, perhaps, prevent +you from many a theatrical disappointment. Having previously informed +myself what _spectacle_ is best worth seeing, while I am at dinner I +send my _valet de place_, or if I cannot conveniently spare him, I +desire him to dispatch a _commissionnaire_ for the number of tickets +wanted, so that when I arrive at the theatre, I have only to walk in, +and place myself to the best advantage. + +It is very wisely imagined not to establish the receiver's offices in +the inside of the house, as in our theatres. By this plan, however +great may be the crowd, the entrance is always unobstructed, and +those violent struggles and pressures, which among us have cost the +lives of many, are effectually prevented. You will observe that no +half-price is taken at any theatre in Paris; but in different parts +of the house, there are offices, called _bureaux de supplément_, +where, if you want to pass from one part of it to another, you +exchange your counter-mark on paying the difference. + +Nothing can be better regulated than the present police, both +interior and exterior, of the theatres in Paris. The eye is not +shocked, as was formerly the case, by the presence of black-whiskered +grenadiers, occupying different parts of the house, and, by the +inflexible sternness of their countenance, awing the spectators into +a suppression of their feelings. No fusileer, with a fixed bayonet +and piece loaded with ball, now dictates to the auditors of the pit +that such a seat must hold so many persons, though several among them +might, probably, be as broad-bottomed as Dutchmen. If you find +yourself incommoded by heat or pressure, you are at liberty to +declare it without fear of giving offence. The criticism of a man of +taste is no longer silenced by the arbitrary control of a military +despot, who, for an exclamation or gesture, not exactly coinciding +with his own prepossessions, pointed him out to his myrmidons, and +transferred him at once to prison. You may now laugh with Molèire, or +weep with Racine, without having your mirth or sensibility thus +unseasonably checked in its expansion. + +The existence of this despotism has been denied; but facts are +stubborn things, and I will relate to you an instance in which I saw +it most wantonly exercised. Some years ago I was present at the +_Théâtre Français_, when, in one of Corneille's pieces, Mademoiselle +Raucourt, the tragic actress, was particularly negligent in the +delivery of a passage, which, to do justice to the author, required +the nicest discrimination. An amateur in the _parterre_ reproved her, +in a very gentle manner, for a wrong emphasis. Being at this time a +favourite of the queen, she was, it seems, superior to admonition, +and persisted in her misplaced shrieks, till it became evident that +she set the audience at defiance: other persons then joined the +former in expressing their disapprobation. Instantly the _major_ +singled out the leading critic: two grenadiers forced their way to +the place where he was seated, and conveyed him to prison for having +had the audacity to reprove an actress in favour at court. From such +improper exercise of authority, the following verse had become a +proverb: + + _"II est bien des sifflets, mais nous avons la garde."_ + +Many there are, I know, who approved of this manner of bridling the +fickle Parisians, on the ground that they were so used to the curb +that they could no longer dispense with it. A guard on the outside of +a theatre is unquestionably necessary, and proper for the +preservation of order; but that the public should not be at liberty +to approve or condemn such a passage, or such an actor, is at once to +stifle the expression of that general opinion which alone can produce +good performers. The interior police of the theatre being at present +almost entirely in the hands of the public themselves, it is, on that +account, more justly observed and duly respected. + +Considering the natural impetuosity of their character, one is +surprised at the patient tranquillity with which the French range +themselves in their places. Seldom do they interrupt the performance +by loud conversation, but exchange their thoughts in a whisper. When +one sees them applaud with rapture a tender scene, which breathes +sentiments of humanity or compassion, speaks home to every feeling +heart, and inspires the most agreeable sensations, one is tempted to +question whether the Parisians of the present day belong to the +identical race that could, at one time, display the ferocity of +tigers, and, at another, the tameness of lambs, while their nearest +relations and best friends were daily bleeding on the scaffold? + +By the existing regulations, many of which are worthy of being +adopted in London, no theatre can be opened in Paris without the +permission of the police, who depute proper persons to ascertain that +the house is solidly built, the passages and outlets unincumbered and +commodious, and that it is provided with reservoirs of water, and an +adequate number of fire-engines. + +Every public place that may be open, is to be shut up immediately, +if, for one single day, the proprietors neglect to keep the +reservoirs full of water, the engines in proper order, and the +firemen ready. + +No persons can be admitted behind the scenes, except those employed +in the service of the theatre. Nor is the number of tickets +distributed to exceed that of the persons the house can conveniently +hold. + +No coachman, under any pretext whatever, can quit the reins of his +horses, while the persons he has driven, are getting out of or into +their carriage. Indeed, the necessity of his doing so is obviated by +porters stationed at the door of the theatres, and appointed by the +police. They are distinguished by a brass plate, on which their +permission and the name of the theatre are engraved. + +At all the theatres in Paris, there is an exterior guard, which is at +the disposal of the _civil_ officer, stationed there for the +preservation of order. This guard cannot enter the inside of the +theatre but in case of the safety of the public being exposed, and at +the express requisition of the said officer, who can never introduce +the armed force into the house, till after he has, in a loud voice, +apprized the audience of his intention. + +Every citizen is bound to obey, _provisionally_, the officer of +police. In consequence, every person invited by the officer of +police, or summoned by him, to quit the house, is immediately to +repair to the police-office of the theatre, in order to give such +explanations as may be required of him. The said officer may either +transfer him to the competent tribunal, or set him at liberty, +according to circumstances. + +Proper places are appointed for carriages to wait at. When the play +is ended, no carriage in waiting can move till the first crowd coming +out of the house has disappeared. The commanding officer of the guard +on duty decides the moment when carriages may be called. + +No carriage can move quicker than a foot-pace, and but on a single +rank, till it has got clear of the streets in the vicinity of the +theatre. Nor can it arrive thither but by the streets appointed for +that purpose. + +Two hours before the rising of the curtain, sentinels are placed in +sufficient number to facilitate the execution of these orders, and to +prevent any obstruction in the different avenues of the theatre. + +Indeed, obstruction is now seldom seen; I have more than once had the +curiosity to count, and cause to be counted, all the _private_ +carriages in waiting at the grand French opera, on a night when the +boxes were filled with the most fashionable company. Neither I nor my +_valet de place_ could ever reckon more than from forty to fifty; +whereas, formerly, it was not uncommon to see here between two and +three hundred; and the noise of so many equipages rattling through +the streets, from each of the principal theatres, sufficiently +indicated that the performance was ended. + +By the number of advertisements in the _petites affiches_ or daily +advertiser of Paris, offering a reward for articles lost, no doubt +can exist of there being a vast number of pickpockets in this gay +capital; and a stranger must naturally draw such an inference from +observing where the pockets are placed in men's clothes: in the coat, +it is in the inside of the facing, parallel to the breast: in the +waistcoat, it is also in the inside, but lower down, so that when a +Frenchman wants to take out his money, he must go through the +ceremony of unbuttoning first his surtout, if he wears one in winter, +then his coat, and lastly his waistcoat. In this respect, the ladies +have the advantage; for, as I have already mentioned, they wear no +pockets. + +[Footnote 1: During the old _régime_, the theatres were under the +control of the _Gentils-hommes de la chambre_, but at the +establishment of the directorial government, they were placed in the +power of the Minister of the Interior, in whose department they have +since continued. Of late, however, it is asserted, that they are each +to be under the direction of a Prefect of the Palace.] + +[Footnote 2: Independently of the boxes reserved for the officers of +the staff of the city of Paris, and those at the head of the police, +who have individually free admission to all the _spectacles_ on +producing their ivory ticket, there is also a box at each theatre +appropriated to the Minister of Public Instruction.] + + + +LETTER XXII. + +_Paris, November 23, 1801._ + +Yesterday being the day appointed for the opening of the session of +the Legislative Body, I was invited by a member to accompany him +thither, in order to witness their proceedings. No one can be +admitted without a ticket; and by the last constitution it is +decreed, that not more than two hundred strangers are to be present +at the sittings. The gallery allotted for the accommodation of the +public, is small, even in proportion to that number, and, in general, +extremely crowded. My friend, aware of this circumstance, did me the +favour to introduce me into the body of the hall, where I was seated +very conveniently, both for seeing and hearing, near the _tribune_, +to the left of the President. + +This hall was built for the Council of Five Hundred, on the site of +the grand apartments of the _Palais Bourbon_. Since the accession of +the consular government, it has been appropriated to the sittings of +the Legislative Body, on which account the palace has taken their +name, and over the principal entrance is inscribed, in embossed +characters of gilt bronze: + +PALAIS DU CORPS LÉGISLATIF. + +The palace stands on the south bank of the Seine, facing the _Pont de +la Concorde_. It was begun, in 1722, for Louise-Françoise de Bourbon, +a legitimated daughter of Lewis XIV. GIRARDINI, an Italian architect, +planned the original building, the construction of which was +afterwards superintended by LASSURANCE and GABRIEL. The Prince de +Condé having acquired it by purchase, he caused it to be considerably +augmented and embellished, at different times, under the direction of +BARRAU, CARPENTIER and BÉLISARD. + +Had the _Pont de la Concorde_ subsisted previously to the erection of +the _Palais Bourbon_, the principal entrance would, probably, have +been placed towards the river; but it faces the north, and is +preceded by a paltry square, now called _Place du Corps Législatif_. + +In the centre of a peristyle, of the Corinthian order, is the grand +gateway, crowned by a sort of triumphal arch, which is connected, by +a double colonnade, to two handsome pavilions. The lateral buildings +of the outer court, which is two hundred and eighty feet in length, +are decorated with the same order, and a second court of two hundred +and forty feet, includes part of the original palace, which is +constructed in the Italian style. + +The principal entrances to the right and left lead to two halls; the +one dedicated to _Peace_; the other, to _Victory_. On the one side, +is a communication to the apartments of the old palace; on the other, +are two spacious rooms. The room to the left, inscribed to _Liberty_, +is intended for petitioners, &c.; that to the right, inscribed to +_Equality_, is appropriated to conferences. Between the halls of +Liberty and Equality, is the hall of the sittings of the Legislative +Body. + +The form of this hall is semicircular; the benches, rising gradually +one above the other, as in a Roman amphitheatre, are provided with +backs, and well adapted both for ease and convenience. They are +intersected by passages, which afford to the members the facility of +reaching or quitting their places, without disturbance or confusion. +Every seat is distinguished by a number, so that a deputy can never +be at a loss to find his place. In the centre, is an elevated +rostrum, with a seat for the President, directly under which is the +_tribune_, also elevated, for the orator addressing the assembly. The +tribune is decorated by a bas-relief, in white marble, representing +France writing her constitution, and Fame proclaiming it. The table +for the four secretaries is placed facing the tribune, beneath which +the _huissiers_ take their station. The desk and seat of the +President, formed of solid mahogany, are ornamented with _or moulu_. +The folding doors, which open into the hall, to the right and left of +the President's chair, are also of solid mahogany, embellished in the +same manner. Their frames are of white marble, richly sculptured. +Independently of these doors, there are others, serving as a +communication to the upper-seats, by means of two elegant stone +stair-cases. + +In six niches, three on each side of the tribune, are so many statues +of Greek and Roman legislators. On the right, are Lycurgus, Solon, +and Demosthenes: on the left, Brutus, Cato, and Cicero. The inside of +the hall is in stucco, and the upper part is decorated by a colonnade +of the Ionic order. The light proceeds from a cupola, glazed in the +centre, and the remainder of which is divided into small +compartments, each ornamented by an emblematical figure. The floor is +paved with marble, also in compartments, embellished with allegorical +attributes. + +Having made you acquainted with the hall of the sittings, I think it +may not be uninteresting to give you an account of the forms observed +in opening the session. + +When I arrived, with my friend, at the Palace of the Legislative +Body, most of the members were already assembled in the apartments of +their library. At noon, they thence repaired to the hall, preceded by +the _huissiers_, messengers of state, and secretaries. + +The opening of the session was announced by the report of artillery. + +The oldest member, in point of years, took the President's chair, +provisionally. + +The four youngest members of the assembly were called to the table to +discharge the office of secretaries, also provisionally. + +The provisional President then declared, that the members of the +Legislative Body were assembled by virtue of Article XXXIII of the +constitution, for the session of the year X; that, being +provisionally organized, the sitting was opened; and that their names +were going to be called over, for the purpose of ascertaining the +number of members present, and for forming definitive arrangements, +by the nomination of a president and four secretaries. + +The names were then called over alphabetically, and, after they were +all gone through, they were recalled. + +This ceremony being terminated, four committees, each composed of +four members, whose names were drawn by lot by the President, +proceeded, in presence of the assembly, to scrutinize the ballot. + +It thence resulted, that the number of members present was two +hundred and twenty-eight; + +That Citizen DUPUIS was elected President by a majority of votes; + +That Citizens DUBOSC, BORD, ESTAQUE, and CLAVIER were individually +elected, by a similar majority, to officiate as secretaries. + +In consequence. Citizen DUPUIS was proclaimed President, and took the +chair. He then moved the following resolution, which was agreed to: + +"The Legislative Body declares, that it is definitely constituted, +and decrees that the present declaration shall be carried to the +Conservative Senate, to the Tribunate, and to the Consuls of the +Republic, by a messenger of State." + +The President next addressed the assembly in these words: + +"Citizens Legislators, + +"After twelve years of a painful and glorious struggle against all +Europe, in order to insure the triumph of the liberty of man and that +of nations, the moment is at length arrived when Peace is on the +point of crowning the efforts of the French people, and securing the +Republic on a foundation never to be shaken. For this peace, which +will unite by the bonds of friendship two great nations, already +connected by esteem, we are indebted to the valour and wisdom of the +heroic pacificator, to the wise administration of the government, to +the bravery of our invincible armies, to the good understanding +subsisting between all the constituted authorities, and, above all, +to that spirit of moderation which has known how to fix limits to +victory itself. The name of peace, so dear to the friend of human +nature, ought to impose silence on all malignant passions, cordially +unite all the children of the same country, and be the signal of +happiness to the present generation, as well as to our posterity. + +"How gratifying is it to us, Citizens Legislators, after having +passed through the storms of a long revolution, to have at length +brought safely into port the sacred bark of the Republic, and to +begin this session by the proclamation of peace to the world, as +those who preceded us opened theirs by the proclamation of the Rights +of Man and that of the Republic! To crown this great work, nothing +more remains for us but to make those laws so long expected, which +are to complete social organization, and regulate the interests of +citizens. This code, already prepared by men of consummate prudence, +will, I hope, be soon submitted to your examination and sanction; and +the present session will be the most glorious epoch of our Republic: +for there is nothing more glorious to man than to insure the +happiness of his fellow-creatures, and scatter beforehand the first +seeds of the liberty of the world." + +"_L'impression! L'impression!_" was the cry that instantly proceeded +from bench to bench on the close of this speech, which was delivered +in a manner that did honour to the President's feelings. But, though +you have it, as it were, at second-hand, and cannot be struck by +Citizen DUPUIS' manner, I hope you will deem the matter sufficiently +interesting to justify its insertion in this letter. + +Three orators, deputed by the government, were next announced, and +introduced in form. They were habited in their dress of Counsellors +of State, that is, a scarlet coat, richly embroidered in shaded silks +of the same colour, over which they wore a tricoloured silk sash. + +One of them, having ascended the tribune, and obtained leave to +speak, read an extract from the registers of the Council of State, +dated the 24th of Brumaire, purporting that the First Consul had +nominated the Counsellors of State, REGNIER, BÉRENGER, and DUMAS to +repair to the present sitting. Citizen REGNIER then addressed the +assembly in the name of the government. He read his speech from a +paper which he held in his hand. It began by announcing the signature +of the preliminaries of peace with England, and informed the +Legislative Body that measures had been taken by the government for +regulating the various branches of the interior administration and of +its intention to submit to them the civil code. It was replete with +language of a conciliating nature, and concluded with a wish that the +most unalterable harmony might subsist between the first authorities +of the State, and strengthen in the mind of the people the confidence +which they already testified. + +From the tenour of this speech, I think it may be inferred that the +government is apprehensive of a difference of opinion respecting the +civil code; not so much in this place, for, by the constitution, the +lips of the deputies are sealed, but in the Tribunate, where a warm +discussion may be expected. + +The President made a short and apt reply to the orators of the +government, who then retired with the same ceremony with which they +had entered. Both these speeches were ordered to be printed. + +The Conservative Senate addressed to the Legislative Body, by a +message read by the President, the different acts emanated from its +authority since the last session. Ordered to be inserted in the +Journals. A few letters were also read by the President from +different members, excusing themselves for non-attendance on account +of indisposition. Several authors having addressed a copy of their +works to the Legislative Body, these presents were accepted, and +ordered to be placed in their library. + +The administrative commission of the Legislative Body announced that +the ambassador of the Cisalpine Republic had sent a present of three +hundred medals, struck on occasion of the peace and of the _forum +Bonaparte_, which medals were distributed to the members. + +The assembly the broke up, the next sitting being appointed for the +following day at noon. + +Lord Cornwallis and suite sat in the box allotted to Foreign +Ministers, facing the President, as did the Marquis de Lucchesini, +the Prussian ambassador, and some others. A small box is likewise +appropriated to reporters, who take down the proceedings. The members +were all habited in their appointed dress, which consists of a dark +blue coat embroidered with gold, blue pantaloons and white waistcoat, +also embroidered, a tricoloured silk sash, worn above the coat, and +ornamented with a rich gold fringe. They wore a plain cocked hat, +with the national cockade, and short boots. This meeting of +legislators, all in the same dress, undoubtedly presents a more +imposing spectacle than such a variegated assemblage as is sometimes +to be seen in our House of Commons. + +By the present constitution, you will see that no new law can be +promulgated, unless decreed by the Legislative Body. + +The votes in this assembly being taken by ballot, and the laws being +enacted without any discussion, on the part of its members, on the +plans debated before it by the orators of the Tribunate and of the +government, it necessarily follows that the sittings present far less +interest to strangers, than would result from an animated delivery of +the opinion of a few leading orators. + +Before I take leave of this palace, I must introduce you into the +suite of rooms formerly distinguished by the appellation of _petits +appartemens du Palais Bourbon_, and which, before the revolution, +constituted one of the curiosities of Paris. + +In the distribution of these, BÉLISARD assembled all the charms of +modern elegance. The vestibule, coloured in French gray, contains, in +the intervals between the doors, figures of Bacchantes, and, in the +ceiling, wreaths of roses and other ornaments painted in imitation of +relief. The eating-room, which comes next, is decorated so as to +represent a verdant bower, the paintings are under mirrors, and +tin-plate, cut out in the Chinese manner, seems to shew light +through the foliage. In two niches, made in the arbour-work, in the +form of porticoes, which Cupids are crowning with garlands, are +placed two statues from the antique, the one representing Venus +_pudica_, and the other, Venus _callypyga_, or _aux belles fesses_: +mirrors, placed in the niches, reflect beauties which the eye could +not discover. + +The drawing room, another enchanting place, is of a circular form, +surrounded with Ionic pillars. In the intercolumniations, are arches +lined with mirrors, and ornamented with the most tasteful hangings. +Under each arch is a sopha. The ceiling represents caryatides +supporting a circular gallery, between which are different subjects, +such as the Toilet of Venus, the Departure of Adonis, &c. Every thing +here is gallant and rich; but mark the secret wonder. You pull a +string; the ceiling rises like a cloud, and exhibits to view an +extensive sky, with which it becomes confounded. The music of an +invisible orchestra, placed above the ceiling, used to be heard +through the opening, and produced a charming effect, when +entertainments were given in these apartments. + +This is not all. You pull another string; and, by means of concealed +machinery, the aperture of the three casements suddenly becomes +occupied by pannels of mirrors, so that you may here instantly turn +day into night. The bed-chamber, the _boudoir_, the study, &c., are +all decorated in a style equally elegant and tasteful. + + + +LETTER XXIII. + +_Paris, November 25, 1801._ + +Of all the public edifices in this capital, I know of none whose +interior astonishes so much, at first sight, and so justly claims +admiration, especially from those who have a knowledge of +architecture or mechanics, as the + +HALLE AU BLÉ. + +This building is destined for the reception of corn and flour: it was +begun in 1762, on the site of the ancient _Hôtel de Soissons_, which +was purchased by the city of Paris. In the space of three years, the +hall and the circumjacent houses were finished, under the direction +of the architect, CAMUS DE MEZIÈRE. + +The circular form of this hall, the solidity of its construction, its +insulated position, together with the noble simplicity of its +decoration, perfectly accord with the intention and character of the +object proposed. Twenty-five arches, all of equal size, serve each as +an entrance. On the ground-floor are pillars of the Tuscan order, +supporting vast granaries, the communication to which is by two +stair-cases of well-executed design. + +The court is covered by a cupola of one hundred and twenty feet in +diameter, forming a perfect semicircle, whose centre, taken on a +level with the cornice, is forty-four feet from the ground. The dome +of the Pantheon at Rome, which is the largest known, exceeds that of +the _Halle au Blé_ by thirteen feet only. This cupola is entirely +composed of deal boards, a foot in breadth, an inch in thickness, and +about four feet in length. It is divided into twenty-five lateral +openings, which give as many rays of light diverging from the +centre-opening, whose diameter is twenty-four feet. These openings +are all glazed, and the wood-work of the dome is covered with sheets +of tinned copper. + +PHILIBERT DE L'ORME, architect to Henry II, was the original author +of this new method of covering domes, though he never carried it into +execution. As a homage for the discovery, MOLINOS and LEGRAND, the +architects of the cupola, have there placed a medallion with his +portrait. It is said that this experiment was deemed so hazardous, +that the builder could find no person bold enough to strike away the +shores, and was under the necessity of performing that task in +person. To him it was not a fearful one; but the workmen, +unacquainted with the principles of this manner of roofing buildings, +were astonished at the stability of the dome, when the shores were +removed. + +No place in Paris could well be more convenient for giving a banquet +than the _Halle au Blé_; twelve or fourteen hundred persons might +here be accommodated at table; and little expense would be required +for decoration, as nothing can be more elegant than the cupola +itself. + +Several periodical publications give a statement, more or less exact, +of the quantity of flour lodged in this spacious repository, which is +filled and emptied regularly every four or five days. But these +statements present not the real consumption of Paris, since several +bakers draw their supply directly from the farmers of the environs; +and, besides, a great quantity of loaves are brought into the capital +from some villages, famous for making bread, whose inhabitants come +and retail them to the Parisians. + +The annual consumption of bread-corn in this capital has, on an +average, been computed at twenty-four millions of bushels. But it is +not the consumption only that it is useful to know: the most material +point to be ascertained, is the method of providing effectually for +it; so that, from a succession of unfavourable harvests, or any other +cause, the regular supplies may not experience even a momentary +interruption. When it is considered that Paris contains eight or nine +hundred thousand of the human race, it is evident that this branch of +administration requires all the vigilance of the government. + +Bread is now reckoned enormously dear, nineteen _sous_ for the loaf +of four pounds; but, during the winter of 1794, the Parisians felt +all the horrors of a real famine. Among other articles of the first +necessity, bread was then so scarce, that long ranks of people were +formed at the doors of the bakers' shops, each waiting in turn to +receive a scanty portion of two ounces. + +The consumption of flour here is considerably increased by the +immense number of dogs, cats, monkies, parrots, and other birds, kept +by persons of every class, and fed chiefly on bread and biscuit. + +No poor devil that has not in his miserable lodging a dog to keep him +company: not being able to find a friend among his own species, he +seeks one in the brute creation. A pauper of this description, who +shared his daily bread with his faithful companion, being urged to +part with an animal that cost him so much to maintain: "Part with +him!" rejoined he; "who then shall I get to love me?" + +Near the _Halle au Blé_, stands a large fluted pillar of the Doric +order, which formerly belonged to the _Hôtel de Soissons_, and served +as an observatory to Catherine de Medicis. In the inside, is a +winding stair-case, leading to the top, whither that diabolical woman +used frequently to ascend, accompanied by astrologers, and there +perform several mysterious ceremonies, in order to discover futurity +in the stars. She wore on her stomach a skin of parchment, strewn +with figures, letters, and characters of different colours; which +skin she was persuaded had the virtue of insuring her from any +attempt against her person. + +Much about that period, 1572, there were reckoned, in Paris alone, no +less than thirty thousand astrologers. At the present day, the +ambulating magicians frequent the _Old Boulevards_, and there tell +fortunes for three or four _sous_; while those persons that value +science according to the price set on it, disdaining these two-penny +conjurers, repair to fortune-tellers of a superior class, who take +from three to six francs, and more, when the opportunity offers. The +TROPHONIUS of Paris is Citizen Martin, who lives at N° 1773 _Rue +d'Anjou_: the PHEMONOË is Madame Villeneuve, _Rue de l'Antechrist_. + +Formerly, none but courtesans here drew the cards; now, almost every +female, without exception, has recourse to them. Many a fine lady +even conceives herself to be sufficiently mistress of the art to tell +her own fortune; and some think they are so skilled in reading +futurity in the cards, that they dare not venture to draw them for +themselves, for fear of discovering some untoward event. + +This rage of astrology and fortune-telling is a disease which +peculiarly affects weak intellects, ruled by ignorance, or afflicted +by adversity. In the future, such persons seek a mitigation of the +present; and the illusive enjoyments of the mind make them almost +forget the real sufferings of the body. According to Pope, + + "Hope springs eternal in the human breast, + Man never _is_, but always _to be_ blest." + +At the foot of the above pillar, the only one of the sort in Paris, +is erected a handsome fountain, which furnishes water from the Seine. +At two-thirds of its height is a dial of a singular kind, which marks +the precise hour at every period of the day, and in all seasons. It +is the invention of Father Pingré, who was a regular canon of St. +Geneviève, and member of the _ci-devant_ Academy of Sciences. + +While we are in this quarter, let us avail ourselves of the moment; +and, proceeding from the _Halle au Blé_ along the _Rue Oblin_, +examine the + +CHURCH OF SAINT EUSTACHE. + +This church, which is one of the most spacious in Paris, is situated +at the north extremity of the _Rue des Prouvaires_, facing the _Rue +du Jour_. It was begun in 1532, but not finished till the year 1642. + +Notwithstanding the richness of its architecture, it presents not an +appearance uniformly handsome, on account of the ill-combined mixture +of the Greek and Gothic styles: besides, the pillars are so numerous +in it, that it is necessary to be placed in the nave to view it to +the best advantage. + +The new portal of _St. Eustache_, which was constructed in 1754, is +formed of two orders, the Doric and the Ionic, the one above the +other. At each extremity of this portal, rise two insulated towers, +receding from all the projection of the inferior order, and decorated +by Corinthian columns with pilasters, on an attic serving as a socle. +These two towers were to have been crowned by a balustrade; one alone +has been finished. + +Several celebrated personages have been interred in this church. +Among them, I shall particularize one only; but that one will long +live in the memory of every convivial British seaman. Who has not +heard the lay which records the defeat of Tourville? Yes-- + + He who "on the main triumphant rode + To meet the gallant Russel in combat o'er the deep;" + Who "led his noble troops of heroes bold + To sink the English admiral and his fleet." + +Though considered by his countrymen, as one of the most eminent +seamen that France ever produced, and enjoying at the time of his +death the dignity of Marshal, together with that of Vice-admiral of +the kingdom, Tourville never had an epitaph. He died on the 28th of +May 1701, aged 59. + +Some of the monuments which existed here have been transferred to the +Museum in the _Rue des Petits Augustins_, where may be seen the +sarcophagus of Colbert, Minister to Lewis XIV, and the medallion of +Cureau de la Chambre, physician to that king, and also his +physiognomist, whom he is said to have constantly consulted in the +selection of his ministers. Among the papers of that physician there +still exists, in an unpublished correspondence with Lewis XIV, this +curious memorandum: "Should I die before his majesty, he would run a +great risk of making, in future, many a bad choice." + +It is impossible to enter one of these sanctuaries without reflecting +on the rapid progress of irreligion among a people who, six months +before, were, on their knees, adoring the effigies which, at that +period, they were eager to mutilate and destroy. Iron crows and +sledge-hammers were almost in a state of requisition. In the +beginning, it was a contest who should first aim a blow at the nose +of the Virgin Mary, or break the leg of her son. In one day, +contracts were entered into with masons for defacing images which for +centuries, had been partly concealed under the dusty webs of +generations of spiders. + +As for the statues within reach of swords and pikes, it was a +continual scene of amusement to the licentious to knock off the ear +of one angel, and scratch the face of another. Not an epitaph was +left to retrace the patriotic deeds of an upright statesman, or the +more brilliant exploits of a heroic warrior; not a memento, to record +conjugal affection, filial piety, or grateful friendship. The +iconoclasts proceeded not with the impetuous fury of fanatics, but +with the extravagant foolery of atheistical buffoons. + +All the gold and silver ornaments disappeared: a great part of them +were dissolved in the crucibles of the mint, after having been +presented as a homage to the Convention, some of whose members danced +the _carmagnole_ with those who presented them at their bar, loaded +on the back of mules and asses, bedecked with all the emblems of +catholic worship; while several of the rubies, emeralds, &c. which +had formerly decorated the glory, beaming round the head of a Christ, +were afterwards seen glittering on the finger of the revolutionary +committee-men. + +Chaumette, an attorney, was the man who proclaimed atheism, and his +example had many imitators. It seemed the wish of that impious being +to exile God himself from nature. He it was who imagined those +orgies, termed the festivals of reason. One of the most remarkable of +these festivals was celebrated in this very church of _St. Eustache_. + +Although Mademoiselle Maillard, the singing heroine of the French +opera, figured more than once as the goddess of reason, that divinity +was generally personified by some shameless female, who, if not a +notorious prostitute, was frequently little better. Her throne +occupied the place of the altar; her supporters were chiefly drunken +soldiers, smoking their pipe; and before her, were a set of +half-naked vagabonds, singing and dancing the _carmagnole_. + +"In this church," says an eye-witness, "the interior of the choir +represented a landscape, decorated with cottages and clumps of trees. +In the distance were mysterious bowers, to which narrow paths led, +through declivities formed of masses of artificial rock. + +"The inside of the church presented the spectacle of a large +public-house. Round the choir were arranged tables, loaded with +bottles, sausages, pies, pâtés, and other viands. On the altars of +the lateral chapels, sacrifices were made to luxury and gluttony; +and the consecrated stones bore the disgusting marks of beastly +intemperance. + +"Guests crowded in at all doors: whoever came partook of this +festival: children thrust their hands into the dishes, and helped +themselves out of the bottles, as a sign of liberty; while the speedy +consequences of this freedom became a matter of amusement to grown +persons in a similar state of ebriety. What a deplorable picture of +the people, who blindly obeyed the will of a few factious leaders! + +"In other churches, balls were given; and, by way of shutting the +door in the face of modesty, these were continued during the night, +in order that, amidst the confusion of nocturnal revelry, those +desires which had been kindled during the day, might be freely +gratified under the veil of darkness. + +"The processions which accompanied these orgies, were no less +attended with every species of atheistical frenzy. After feasting +their eyes with the sacrifice of human victims, the Jacobin faction, +or their satellites, followed the car of their impure goddess: next +came, in another car, a moving orchestra, composed of blind +musicians, a too faithful image of that Reason which was the object +of their adoration." + +The state of France, at that period, proves that religion being +detached from social order, there remained a frightful void, Which +nothing could have filled up but its subsequent restoration. Without +religion, men become enemies to each other, criminals by principle, +and bold violators of the laws; force is the only curb that can +restrain them. The inevitable consequence is, that anarchy and rapine +desolate the face of the earth, and reduce it to a heap of misfortune +and ruin. + + + +LETTER XXIV. + +_Paris, November 27, 1801._ + +When we travel back in idea for the last ten years, and pass in +review the internal commotions which have distracted France during +that period, and the external struggle she has had to maintain for +the security of her independence, we cannot refuse our admiration to +the constancy which the French have manifested in forming +institutions for the diffusion of knowledge, and repositories of +objects tending to the advancement of the arts and sciences. In this +respect, if we except the blood-thirsty reign of Robespierre, no +clash of political interests, no change in the form or administration +of the government, has relaxed their ardour, or slackened their +perseverance. Whatever set of men have been in power, the arts and +sciences have experienced almost uninterrupted protection. + +In the opinion of the French themselves, the GALLERY OF ANTIQUES, in +the CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS, may claim pre-eminence over every +other repository of sculpture; but many persons may, probably, feel a +satisfaction more pure and unadulterated in viewing the + +MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONUMENTS. + +Here, neither do insignia of triumph call to mind the afflicting +scenes of war, nor do emblems of conquest strike the eye of the +travelled visiter, and damp his enjoyment by blending with it bitter +recollections. Vandalism is the only enemy from whose attacks the +monuments, here assembled, have been rescued. + +This Museum, which has, in fact, been formed out of the wrecks of the +revolutionary storm, merits particular attention. Although it was not +open to the public, for the first time, till the 15th of Fructidor, +year III (2nd of September 1795), its origin may be dated from 1790, +when the Constituent Assembly, having decreed the possessions of the +Clergy to be national property, charged the _Committee of Alienation_ +to exert their vigilance for the preservation of all the monuments of +the arts, spread throughout the wide extent of the ecclesiastical +domains. + +The philanthropic LA ROCHEFOUCAULD, (the last Duke of the family), as +President of that committee, fixed on a number of artists and +literati to select such monuments as the committee were anxious to +preserve. The municipality of Paris, being specially entrusted, by +the National Assembly, with the execution of this decree, also +nominated several literati and artists of acknowledged merit to +co-operate with the former in their researches and labours. Of this +association was formed a commission, called _Commission des +Monumens_. From that epoch, proper places were sought for the +reception of the treasures which it was wished to save from +destruction. The _Committee of Alienation_ appointed the _ci-devant_ +monastery of the _Petits Augustins_ for the monuments of sculpture +and pictures, and those of the _Capucins, Grands Jesuites,_ and +_Cordeliers_, for the books and manuscripts. + +By these means, the monuments in the suppressed convents and churches +were, by degrees, collected in this monastery, which is situated in +the _Rue des Petits Augustins_, so named after that order of monks, +whose church here was founded, in 1613, by Marguerite de Valois, +first wife of Henry IV. + +At the same period, ALEXANDRE LENOIR was appointed, by the +Constituent Assembly, director of this establishment. As I shall have +frequent occasion to mention the name of that estimable artist, I +shall here content myself with observing, that the choice did honour +to their judgment. + +In the mean time, under pretext of destroying every emblem of +feudality, the most celebrated master-pieces were consigned to ruin; +but the commission before-mentioned opportunely published +instructions respecting the means of preserving the valuable articles +which they purposed to assemble. + +The National Convention also gave indisputable proof of its regard +for the arts, by issuing several decrees in their favour. Its +_Committee of Public Instruction_ created a commission, composed of +distinguished literati and artists of every class, for the purpose of +keeping a watchful eye over the preservation of the monuments of the +arts. The considerable number of memoirs, reports, and addresses, +diffused through the departments by this learned and scientific +association, enlightened the people, and arrested the arm of those +modern Vandals who took a pleasure in mutilating the most admired +statues, tearing or defacing the most valuable pictures, and melting +casts of bronze of the most exquisite beauty. + +Among the numerous reports to which these acts of blind ignorance +gave birth, three published by GRÉGOIRE, ex-bishop of Blois, claim +particular distinction no less on account of the taste and zeal which +they exhibit for the advancement of literature and the fine arts, +than for the invective with which they abound against the madness of +irreligious barbarism. This last stroke, aptly applied, was the means +of recovering many articles of value, and of preserving the monuments +still remaining in the provinces. + +In these eventful times, LENOIR, the Conservator of the rising +museum, collected, through his own indefatigable exertions, a +considerable number of mausolea, statues, bas-reliefs, and busts of +every age and description. No sooner did a moment of tranquillity +appear to be reestablished in this country, than he proposed to the +government to place all these monuments in historical and +chronological order, by classing them, according to the age in which +they had been executed, in particular halls or apartments, and giving +to each of these apartments the precise character peculiar to each +century. This plan which, in its aggregate, united the history of the +art and that of France, by means of her monuments, met with general +approbation, and was accordingly adopted by the members of the +government. + +Thus, throughout this Museum, the architectural decorations of the +different apartments are of the age to which the monuments of +Sculpture, contained in each, belongs; and the light penetrates +through windows of stained glass, from the designs of RAPHAEL, +PRIMATICCIO, ALBERT DURER, LE SUEUR, &c., the production of the +particular century corresponding to that of the sculpture. + +Come then, let us visit this Museum, and endeavour to discriminate +the objects which may be most interesting both to the artist and +historian. We first enter the + +ANTI-CHAMBER. + +This apartment presents itself to our inquisitive looks, as a Hall of +Introduction, which may not be unaptly compared to the preface of a +grand work. Here we behold a crowd of monuments, arranged +methodically, so as to prepare our eyes for tracing the different +ages through which we have to travel. + +We first remark those altars, worn by the hand of Time, on which the +trading Gauls of the ancient _Lutetia_, now Paris, sacrificed to the +gods in the time of Tiberius. Jupiter, Mars, Vulcan, Mercury, Venus, +Pan, Castor and Pollux, and the religious ceremonies here sculptured, +are sufficient to attest that the Parisians were then idolaters, and +followed the religion of the Romans, to whom they were become +tributary. The Inscriptions on each of these monuments, which are +five in number, leave no doubt as to their authenticity, and the +epoch of their erection. + +These altars, five in number, are charged with bas-reliefs, and the +first of them is inscribed with the following words in Latin. + + TIB. CAESARE. + AVG. IOVI OPTVMO + MAXSVMO (_aram_) M. + NAVTAE. PARISIACI + PUBLICE POSIERVNT. + +_Tiberius Cæsar, having accepted or taken the name of Augustus, the +navigators (Nautæ) belonging to the city of Paris, publicly +consecrated this altar to Jupiter the most great and most good._ + +In 1711, these monuments were dug up from the choir of the cathedral +of _Notre-Dame_, out of the foundations of the ancient church of +Paris, constructed by Childebert, on the ruins of a temple, formerly +dedicated to Isis, which he caused to be demolished. Near them we see +the great goddess of the Germans figure under the name of Nehalennia, +in honour of whom that people had erected a great number of +monuments, some of which were discovered in the year 1646, when the +sea retired from the island of Walcheren. + +Capitals, charged with bas-reliefs, taken from a subterraneous +basilic, built by Pepin, have likewise been collected, and follow +those which I have just mentioned. Next comes the tomb of CLOVIS, +which exhibits that prince lying at length; he is humbling himself +before the Almighty, and seems to be asking him forgiveness for his +crimes. We likewise see those of CHILDEBERT and of the cruel +CHILPERIC. The intaglio, relieved by inlaid pieces of Mosaic, of +queen FREDEGOND, has escaped the accidents of twelve centuries. Just +Heaven! what powers have disappeared from the face of the earth since +that period! And to what reflections does not this image, still +existing of that impious woman, give birth in the mind of the +philosopher! CHARLEMAGNE, who was buried at Aix-la-Chapelle, seated +on a throne of gold, appears here, in a haughty attitude, with his +sword in his hand, still to be giving laws to the world! + +As might naturally be supposed, most of these figures have suffered +much by the rude attacks of Time; but in spite of his indelible +impression, the unpolished hand of the sculptor is still +distinguishable, and betrays the degraded state of the arts during +the darkness of the middle ages. Let us pass into the + +HALL OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY. + +Here we shall remark arches in the Gothic style, supported by thick +pillars, according to the architecture of that period. Ornaments, in +the form of _culs-de-lampe_, terminate the centre of the arches, +which are painted in azure-blue, and charged with stars. When temples +were begun to be sheltered or covered, nations painted the inside of +the roof in this manner, in order to keep in view the image of the +celestial canopy to which they directed all their affections, and to +preserve the memory of the ancient custom of offering up sacrifices +to the divinity in the open air. + +Here the statue of LEWIS IX, surnamed the Saint, is placed near that +of PHILIP, one of his sons, and of CHARLES, his brother, king of +Sicily, branded in history, by having, through his oppression, driven +his subjects into revolt, and caused the massacre of the French in +that island in 1277; a massacre well known by the name of the +_Sicilian vespers_. + +It seems that it was the fashion, in those days, for kings themselves +to be bearers at funerals. We are told by St. Foix, that the body of +LEWIS, another son of the Saint, who died in 1662, aged 26, and whose +cenotaph is here, was first carried to St. Denis, and thence to the +abbey of Royaumont, where it was interred. "The greatest lords of the +kingdom," says he, "alternately bore the coffin on their shoulders, +and Henry III; king of England, carried it himself for a considerable +time, as feudatory of the crown." + +PHILIP III, too, above-mentioned, having brought to Paris the remains +of his father from Tunis in Africa, carried them barefooted, on his +shoulders, to St. Denis. Wherever he rested by the way, towers were +erected in commemoration of this act of filial piety; but these have +been destroyed since the revolution. + +The casements of this hall, in the form of ogives, are ornamented +with stained glass of the first epoch of the invention of that art. +We now come to the + +HALL OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY. + +This hall shews us the light, yet splendid architecture of the Arabs, +introduced into France in consequence of the Crusades. Here are the +statues of the kings that successively appeared in this age down to +king JOHN, who was taken prisoner by Edward, the black prince, at the +battle of Poietiers. They are clad after the manner of their time, +and lying at length on a stylobate, strewn with flower-de-luces. +Twenty-two knights, each mounted on lions, armed cap-à-pié, +represented of the natural size, and coloured, fill ogive niches +ornamented with Mosaic designs, relieved with gold, red, and blue. + +The tombs of CHARLES V, surnamed the _Wise_, and of the worthy +constable, DU GUESCLIN, together with that of SANCERRE, his faithful +friend, rise in the middle of this apartment; which presents to the +eye all the magnificence of a Turkish mosque. After having quitted +it, what a striking contrast do we not remark on entering the + +HALL OF THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY! + +Columns, arabesque ceilings charged with gilding, light pieces of +sculpture applied on blue and violet grounds, imitating cameo, china, +or enamel; every thing excites astonishment, and concurs in calling +to mind the first epoch of the regeneration of the arts in this +country. + +The ideas of the amateur are enlivened in this brilliant apartment: +they prepare him for the gratification which he is going to +experience at the sight of the beautiful monuments produced by the +age, so renowned of Francis I. There, architecture predominates over +sculpture; here, sculpture over architecture. + +The genius of RAPHAEL paved the way to this impulse of regeneration: +he had recently produced the decorations of the Vatican; and the +admirable effect of these master-pieces of art, kindled an enthusiasm +in the mind of the artists, who travelled. On their return to France, +they endeavoured to imitate them: in this attempt, JEAN JUSTE, a +sculptor sent to Rome, at the expense of the Cardinal D'AMBOISE, was +the most succcessful. + +First, we behold the mausoleum of LOUIS D'ORLÉANS, victim of the +faction of the Duke of Burgundy, and that of his brother CHARLES, the +poet. Near them is that of VALENTINE DE MILAN, the inconsolable wife +of the former, who died through grief the year after she lost her +husband. As an emblem of her affliction, she took for her device a +watering-pot stooped, whence drops kept trickling in the form of +tears. Let it not be imagined, however, that it was on account of his +constancy that this affectionate woman thus bewailed him till she +fell a victim to her sorrow. + +LOUIS D'ORLÉANS was a great seducer of ladies of the court, and of +the highest rank too, says Brantome. Indeed, historians concur in +stating that to a brilliant understanding, he joined the most +captivating person. We accordingly find that the Dutchess of Burgundy +and several others were by no means cruel to him; and he had been +supping tête-à-tête with Queen Isabeau de Bavière, when, in returning +home, he was assassinated on the twenty-third of November 1407. His +amorous intrigues at last proved fatal to the English, as you will +learn from the following story, related by the same author. + +One morning, M. d'Orléans having in bed with him a woman of quality, +whose husband came to pay him an early visit, he concealed the lady's +head, while he exhibited the rest of her person to the contemplation +of the unsuspecting intruder, at the same time forbidding him, as he +valued his life, to remove the sheet from her face. Now, the cream of +the jest was, that, on the following night, the good soul of a +husband, as he lay beside his dear, boasted to her that the Duke of +Orleans had shewn him the most beautiful woman that he had ever seen: +but that for her face he could not tell what to say of it, as it was +concealed under the sheet. "From this little intrigue," adds +Brantome, "sprang that brave and valiant bastard of Orleans, Count +Dunois, the pillar of France, and the scourge of the English." + +Here we see the statues of CHARLES VI, and of JANE of Burgundy. The +former being struck by a _coup de soleil_, became deranged in his +intellects and imbecile, after having displayed great genius; he is +represented with a pack of cards in his hand to denote that they were +first invented for that prince's diversion. The latter was Dutchess +of BEAUFORT, wife to the Duke, who commanded the English army against +Charles VII, and as brother to our Henry IV, was appointed regent of +France, during the minority of his nephew, Henry V. + +Next come those of RÉNÉE D'ORLÉANS, grand-daughter of the intrepid +Dunois; and of PHILIPPE DE COMMINES, celebrated by his memoirs of the +tyrant, LEWIS XI, whose statue faces that of CHARLES VII, his father. + +The image of JOAN OF ARC, whom that king had the baseness to suffer +to perish, after she had maintained him on the throne, also figures +in this hall with that of ISABEAU DE BAVIÈRE. The shameful death of +the Maid of Orleans, who, as every one knows, was, at the instigation +of the English, condemned as a witch, and burnt alive at Rouen on the +30th of May 1430, must inspire with indignation every honest +Englishman who reflects on this event, which will ever be a blot in +the page of our history. Isabeau affords a striking example of the +influence of a queen's morals on the affections of the people. On her +first arrival in Paris, she was crowned by angels, and received from +the burghers the most magnificent and costly presents. At her death, +she was so detested by the nation, that in order to convey her body +privately to St. Denis, it was embarked in a little skiff at +_Port-Landri_, with directions to the waterman to deliver it to the +abbot. + +The superb tomb of LEWIS XII, placed in the middle of this apartment, +displays great magnificence; and his statue, lying at length, which +represents him in a state of death, recalls to mind that moment so +grievous to the French people, who exclaimed, in following his +funeral procession to St. Denis, "Our good king Lewis XII is dead, +and we have lost our father." + +The historian delights to record a noble trait of that prince's +character. Lewis XII had been taken prisoner at the battle of St. +Aubin by Louis de la Trimouille, who, fearing the resentment of the +new king, and wishing to excuse himself for his conduct, received +this magnanimous reply: "It is not for the king of France to revenge +the quarrels of the duke of Orleans." + +The statue of PIERRE DE NAVARRE, son of Charles the _Bad_, seems +placed here to form in the mind of the spectator a contrast between +his father and Lewis XII. The tragical end of Charles is of a nature +to fix attention, and affords an excellent subject for a pencil like +that of Fuseli. + +Charles the _Bad_, having fallen into such a state of decay that he +could not make use of his limbs, consulted his physician, who ordered +him to be wrapped up from head to foot, in a linen cloth impregnated +with brandy, so that he might be inclosed in it to the very neck as +in a sack. It was night when this remedy was administered. One of the +female attendants of the palace, charged to sew up the cloth that +contained the patient, having come to the neck, the fixed point where +she was to finish her seam, made a knot according to custom; but as +there was still remaining an end of thread, instead of cutting it as +usual with scissars, she had recourse to the candle, which +immediately set fire to the whole cloth. Being terrified, she ran +away, and abandoned the king, who was thus burnt alive in his own +palace. + +What a picture for the moralist is this assemblage of persons, +celebrated either for their errors, crimes, talents, or virtues! + + + +LETTER XXV. + +_Paris, November 28, 1801_. + +Conceiving how interested you (who are not only a connoisseur, but an +F.A.S.) must feel in contemplating the only repository in the world, +I believe, which contains such a chronological history of the art of +sculpture, I lose no time in conducting you to complete our survey of +the MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONUMENTS in the _Rue des Petits Augustins_. + +Having examined those of the fifteenth century, during our former +visit, we are at length arrived at the age of the Fine Arts in +France, and now enter the + +HALL OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. + + "But see! each muse in LEO'S golden days, + Starts from her trance, and trims her wither'd bays; + Rome's ancient Genius, o'er its ruins spread, + Shakes off the dust, and rears his reverend head; + Then Sculpture and her sister arts revive, + Stones leap'd to form, and rocks began to live." + +These beautiful lines of Pope immediately occur to the mind, on +considering that, in Italy, the Great LEO, by the encouragement which +he gave to men of talents, had considerably increased the number of +master-pieces; when the taste for the Fine Arts, after their previous +revival by the Medici, having spread throughout that country, began +to dawn in France about the end of the fifteenth century. By +progressive steps, the efforts made by the French artists to emulate +their masters, attained, towards the middle of the sixteenth century, +a perfection which has since fixed the attention of Europe. + +On entering this hall, which is consecrated to that period, the +amateur finds his genius inflamed. What a deep impression does not +the perfection of the numerous monuments which it has produced make +on his imagination! First, he admires the beautiful tomb erected to +the memory of FRANCIS I, the restorer of literature and the arts; +who, by inviting to his court LEONARDO DA VINCI and PRIMATICCIO, and +establishing schools and manufactories, consolidated the great work +of their regeneration. + +"Curse the monks!" exclaimed I, on surveying this magnificent +monument, constructed in 1550, from the designs of the celebrated +PHILIBERT DE L'ORME. "Who cannot but regret," continued I to myself, +"that so gallant a knight as Francis I. should fall a victim to that +baneful disease which strikes at the very sources of generation? Who +cannot but feel indignant that so generous a prince, whose first +maxim was, that _true magnanimity consisted in the forgiveness of +injuries, and pusillanimity in the prosecution of revenge_, should +owe his death to the diabolical machinations of a filthy friar?" Yet, +so it was; the circumstances are as follows: + +Francis I. was smitten by the charms of the wife of one Lunel, a +dealer in iron. A Spanish chaplain, belonging to the army of the +Emperor Charles V, passing through Paris in order to repair to +Flayers, threw himself in this man's way, and worked on his mind till +he had made him a complete fanatic: "Your king," said the friar, +"protects Lutheranism in Germany, and will soon introduce it into +France. Be revenged on him and your wife, by serving religion. +Communicate to him that disease for which no certain remedy is yet +known."--"And how am I to give it to him?" replied Lunel; "neither I +nor my wife have it."--"But I have," rejoined the monk: "I hold up my +hand and swear it. Introduce me only for one half-hour by night, into +your place, by the side of your faithless fair, and I will answer for +the rest." + +The priest having prevailed on Lunel to consent to his scheme, went +to a place where he was sure to catch the infection, and, by means of +Lunel's wife, he communicated it to the king. Being previously in +possession of a secret remedy, the monk cured himself in a short +time; the poor woman died at the expiration of a month; and Francis +I, after having languished for three or four years, at length, in +1547, sunk under the weight of a disorder then generally considered +as incurable. + +The tomb of the VALOIS, erected in honour of that family, by +Catherine de Medicis, soon after the death of Henry II, is one of the +masterpieces of GERMAIN PILON. In the execution of this beautiful +monument, that famous artist has found means to combine the +correctness of style of Michael Angelo with the grace of Primaticcio. +To the countenance of HENRY and CATHERINE, who are represented in a +state of death, lying as on a bed, he has imparted an expression of +sensibility truly affecting. + +Next comes the tomb of DIANE DE POITIERS, that celebrated beauty, who +displayed equal judgment in the management of State affairs and in +the delicacy of her attachments; who at the age of 40, captivated +king Henry II, when only 18; and, who, though near 60 at the death of +that prince, had never ceased to preserve the same empire over his +heart. At the age of fourteen, she was married to Louis de Brézé, +grand seneschal of Normandy, and died in April 1506, aged 66. + +Brantome, who saw her not long before her death, when she had just +recovered from the confinement of a broken leg, and had experienced +troubles sufficient to lessen her charms, thus expresses himself: +"Six months ago, when I met her, she was still so beautiful that I +know not any heart of adamant which would not have been moved at the +sight of her."--To give you a perfect idea of her person, take this +laconic description, which is not one of fancy, but collected from +the best historians. + +Her jet black hair formed a striking contrast to her lily complexion. +On her cheeks faintly blushed the budding rose. Her teeth vied with +ivory itself in whiteness: in a word, her form was as elegant as her +deportment was graceful. + +By way of lesson to the belles of the present day, let them be told +that DIANE DE POITIERS was never ill, nor affected indisposition. In +the severity of the winter, she daily washed her face with +spring-water, and never had recourse to cosmetics.----"What pity," +says Brantome, "that earth should cover so beautiful a woman!" + +No man, indeed, who sympathizes with the foibles of human nature, can +contemplate the tomb of DIANE DE POITIERS, and reflect on her +numerous virtues and attractions, without adopting the sentiments of +Brantome, and feeling his breast glow with admiration. + +This extraordinary woman afforded the most signal protection to +literati and men of genius, and was, in fact, no less distinguished +for the qualities of her heart than for the beauty of her person. +"She was extremely good-humoured, charitable, and humane," continues +Brantome "The people of France ought to pray to God that the female +favourite of every chief magistrate of their country may resemble +this amiable frail one." + +As a proof of the elevation of her sentiments, I shall conclude by +quoting to you the spirited reply DIANE made to Henry II, who, by +dint of royal authority, wished to legitimate a daughter he had by +her: "I am of a birth," said she, "to have had lawful children by +you. I have been your mistress, because I loved you. I will never +suffer a decree to declare me your concubine." + +The beautiful group of the modest Graces, and that representing +Diana, accompanied by her dogs Procion and Syrius, sculptured by Jean +Gougeon, to serve as the decoration of a fountain in the park of +DIANE DE POITIERS at Anet, attracts the attention of the connoisseur. + +The tomb of GOUGEON, composed of his own works, and erected to the +memory of that great artist, through gratitude, is, undoubtedly, a +homage which he justly deserved. This French Phidias was a Calvinist, +and one of the numerous victims of St. Bartholomew's day, being shot +on his scaffold, as he was at work on the _Louvre_, the 24th of +August 1572. Here too we behold the statues of BIRAGUE and of the +GONDI, those atrocious wretches who, together with Catherine de +Medicis, plotted that infamous massacre; while CHARLES IX, no less +criminal, here exhibits on his features the stings of a guilty +conscience. + +The man that has a taste for learning, gladly turns his eye from this +horde of miscreants, to fix it on the statue of CLAUDE-CATHERINE DE +CLERMONT-TONNERRE, who was so conversant in the dead languages as to +bear away the palm from Birague and Chiveray, in a speech which she +composed and spoke in Latin, at twenty-four hours' notice, in answer +to the ambassadors who tendered the crown of Poland to Charles IX. + +If the friend of the arts examine the beautiful portico erected by +Philibert de l'Orme, on the banks of the Eure, for Diane de Poitiers, +composed of the three orders of architecture, placed the one above +the other, and forming altogether an elevation of sixty feet, he will +be amazed to learn that this superb monument constructed at Anet, +twenty leagues distant from Paris, was removed thence, and +re-established in this Museum, by the indefatigable conservator, +LENOIR. + +On leaving the apartment containing the master-pieces brought to +light by Francis I, the next we reach is the + +HALL OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. + +What a crowd of celebrated men contained in the temple consecrated to +virtue, courage, and talents! + +There, I behold TURENNE, CONDÉ, MONTAUSIER, COLBERT, MOLIÈRE, +CORNEILLE, LA FONTAINE, RACINE, FÉNÉLON, and BOILEAU. The great LEWIS +XIV, placed in the middle of this hall, seems to become still greater +near those immortal geniuses. + +Farther on, we see the statue of the implacable RICHELIEU, +represented expiring in the arms of Religion, while Science is +weeping at his feet. Ye Gods! what a prostitution of talent! This is +the master-piece of GIRARDON; but, in point of execution, many +connoisseurs prefer the mausoleum of the crafty MAZARIN, whom +COYZEVOX has pourtrayed in a supplicating posture. + +LEWIS XIII, surnamed the _Just_, less great than his illustrious +subject, DE THOU, casts down his eyes in the presence of his +ministers. + +The mausolea of LE BRUN, LULLI, and JÉROME BIGNON, the honour, the +love, and the example of his age, terminate the series of monuments +of that epoch, still more remarkable for its literati than its +artists. We at last come to the + +HALL OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. + +Here we admire the statues of MONTESQUIEU, FONTENELLE, VOLTAIRE, +ROUSSEAU, HELVÉTIUS, CRÉBILLON, PIRON, &c. &c. The tombs of the +learned MAUPERTUIS and CAYLUS, and also that of Marshal D'HARCOURT, +give a perfect idea of the state of degradation into which the art of +design had fallen at the beginning of this century; but the new +productions which decorate the extremity of this spacious hall are +sufficient to prove to what degree the absolute will of a great +genius can influence the progress of the arts, as well as of the +sciences. VIEN and DAVID appeared, and the art was regenerated. + +Here, too, we find a statue, as large as life, representing Christ +leaning on a pillar, executed by MICHAEL ANGELO STODTZ. I notice +this statue merely to observe, that the original, from which it is +taken, is to be seen at Rome, in the _Chiesa della Minerva_ where it +is held in such extraordinary veneration, that the great toe-nail of +the right foot having been entirely worn away by the repeated kisses +of the faithful, one of silver had been substituted. At length this +second nail having been likewise worn away, a third was placed, of +copper, which is already somewhat worn. It was sculptured by MICHAEL +ANGELO BUONAROTI. + +We experience an emotion of regret at the aspect of the handsome +monument by MICHALLON, on learning that it was erected to the memory +of young DROUAIS, a skilful and amiable artist, stopped by death, in +1788, during his brilliant career, at the early age of 24. He has +left behind him three historical pictures, which are so many +master-pieces. + +The beautiful statue of the youthful Cyparissus, by CHAUDET, the most +eminent French sculptor, reminds us of the full and elegant form of +the fine Greek Bacchus, which decorates the peristyle of the +antichamber or Hall of Introduction. + +Thus the amateur and the student will find, in this Museum, an +uninterrupted chronology of monuments, both antique and modern, +beginning by those of ancient Greece, whose date goes back to two +thousand five hundred years before our era, to examine those of the +Romans, of the Lower Empire, of the Gauls, and thence pass to the +first epoch of the French monarchy, and at length follow all the +gradations through which the art has passed from its cradle to its +decrepitude. The whole of this grand establishment is terminated by a +spacious garden, which is converted into an + +ELYSIUM. + +There, on a verdant lawn, amid firs, cypresses, poplars, and weeping +willows, repose the ashes of the illustrious poets, MOLIÈRE, LA +FONTAINE, BOILEAU, &c.; of the learned DESCARTES, MABILLON, +MONTFAUCON, &c., inclosed in sarcophagi; there, they still receive +the homage which mankind owe to talents and virtue. + +But hold! mark the sepulchre of the learned and tender HÉLOÏSE. Her +remains, though formerly conjoined to those of her lover, were +subsequently separated, and after a lapse of three hundred years, +they are now reassembled. + + Here one kind grave unites their hapless name, + And grafts her love immortal on his fame. + +With a smile seated on her lips, HÉLOÏSE seems to be sighing for the +object of her glowing affection: while the unfortunate ABÉLARD, +coldly reclined, is still commenting on the Trinity. The _Paraclete_, +having been sold and demolished, LENOIR, with all the sensibility of +an admirer of genius, withdrew the bones of ABÉLARD and HÉLOÏSE from +that monastery, and placed them here in a sepulchral chapel, partly +constructed from the remains of their ancient habitation. + +Such is the MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONUMENTS. When completed, for some +valuable specimens of the arts slill remain to be added, it will be +one of the most interesting establishments in Paris, and perhaps in +Europe, especially if considered in regard to the improvement of +modern sculpture, and, I may add, architecture. No building can be +better adapted than a monastery for an establishment of this nature. +The solemn gloom of cloisters suits the temper of the mind, when we +reflect on the mortality incident to a succession of ages, and the +melancholy which it inspires, is in perfect unison with our feelings, +when we contemplate the sepulchral monuments that recall to our +memory the actions of the illustrious departed. + +This Museum is very extensive, the three courts and large garden, +which at present compose the whole of its premises, occupying a space +of three thousand seven hundred and sixty-two toises. LENOIR, +however, has recently presented to the First Consul a plan for +enlarging it, without any additional expense of building, by adding +to it the neighbouring _Hôtel de Bouillon_. He proposes that there +should be a new entrance by the quay, exhibiting a spacious court, +decorated with statues, erected in regular order; and that the +apartments on the ground-floor should be appropriated as follows: + +1. To a collection of portraits of all the celebrated men of France. + +2. To a chronological series of armour of all ages. + +3. To a complete collection of French medals. + +4. To a library, solely formed of the books necessary for obtaining a +knowledge of the monuments contained in this Museum. + +When I consider the mutilated state in which most of these monuments +were found at the first formation of this interesting establishment, +and view the perfection in which they now appear; when I remark the +taste and judgment displayed in the distribution and interior +arrangement of the different apartments of this rich museum; when I +learn, from the printed documents on the subject, the strict economy +which has been observed in the acquisition or restoration of a great +number of monuments, the more valuable as they illustrate the history +of the arts; I confess that I find myself at a loss which most to +admire in the Conservator, his courage, zeal, perseverance, or +discrimination. Indeed, nothing but an assemblage of those qualities +could have overcome the difficulties and obstacles which he has +surmounted. + +I shall add that LENOIR'S obliging disposition and amenity of manners +equally entitle him to the gratitude and esteem of the connoisseur, +the student, or the inquisitive stranger. + + + +LETTER XXVI. + +_Paris, December 1, 1801_. + +I was highly gratified the other day on finding myself in company +with some of those men whom (to borrow Lord Thurlow's expression, in +speaking of Warren Hastings,) I have known only as I know Alexander, +by the greatness of their exploits; men whose names will be +transmitted to posterity, and shine with distinguished lustre in the +military annals of France. + +General A----y had already invited me to dine with him, in order to +meet General B----r; but, on the day fixed, the latter, as minister +for the war department, being under the necessity of entertaining +Lord Cornwallis, the party was postponed till the 8th of Frimaire, +(20th of November), when, in addition to General B----r, General +A----y had assembled at his table several men of note. Among others, +were General M----rd, who commanded the right wing of the army of +Naples under Macdonald, in which he distinguished himself as a brave +soldier; and D----ttes, physician in chief to the army of the East. +This officer of health, as medical men are here denominated, is +lately returned from Egypt, where his skill and attention to his +professional duties gained him universal admiration. + +In society so agreeable, time passed away rapidly till General B----r +arrived. It was late, that is about seven o'clock, though the +invitation expressed five precisely, as the hour of dinner. But, in +Paris, a minister is always supposed to be detained on official +business of a nature paramount to every other consideraton. On my +being introduced to General B----r, he immediately entered into +conversation with me concerning Lord Cornwallis, whom he had known in +the American war, having served in the staff of Rochambeau at the +siege of Yorktown. As far back as that period B----r signalized +himself by his skill in military science. It was impossible to +contemplate these distinguished officers without calling to mind how +greatly their country was indebted to the exertion of their talents +on various important occasions. These recollections led me to admire +that wisdom which had placed them in stations for which they had +proved themselves so eminently qualified. In England, places are +generally sought for men; in France, men are sought for places. + +At seven, dinner was announced, and an excellent one it was, both in +quality and quantity. _Presto_ was the word, and all the guests +seemed habituated to expedition. The difference between the duration +of such a repast at this day, and what it was before the revolution, +shews how constantly men become the slaves of fashion. Had BONAPARTE +resembled Lucullus in being addicted to the pleasures of the festive +board, I make no doubt that it would have been the height of _ton_ to +sit quietly two or three hours after dinner. But the Chief Consul is +said to be temperate, almost to abstemiousness; he rises from table +in less than half an hour; and that mode is now almost universal in +Paris, especially among the great men in office. Two elegant courses +and a desert were presently dispatched; the whole time employed in +eating I know not how many good dishes, and drinking a variety of +choice wines, not exceeding thirty-five minutes. At the end of the +repast, coffee was presented to the company in an adjoining room, +after which the opera of _Tarare_ was the attraction of the evening. + +I have already mentioned to you that General A----y had put into my +hand _L'Histoire du Canal du Midi_, written by himself. From a +perusal of this interesting work, it appears that one of his +ancestors[1] was the first who conceived the idea of that canal, +which was not only planned by him, but entirely completed under his +immediate direction. Having communicated his plan to Riquet, the +latter submited it to Colbert, and, on its being approved by Lewis +XIV, became _contractor_ for all the works of that celebrated +undertaking, which he did not live to see finished. Riquet, however, +not content with having derived from the undertaking every advantage +of honour and emolument, greedily snatched from the original +projector the meed of fame, so dearly earned by the unremitting +labour of thirty successive years. These facts are set forth in the +clearest light in the above-mentioned work, in which I was carefully +examining General A----y's plans for the improvement of this famous +canal, when I was most agreeably interrupted. + +I had expressed to the General a wish to know the nature of the +establishment of which he is the director, at the same time apprizing +him that this wish did not extend to any thing that could not with +propriety be made public. He obligingly promised that I should be +gratified, and this morning I received ftom him a very friendly +letter, accompanied by the following account of the + +DÉPÔT DE LA GUERRE. + +The general _Dépôt_ or repository of maps and plans of war, &c, &c, +was established by LOUVOIS, in 1688. This was the celebrated period +when France, having attained the highest degree of splendour, secured +her glory by the results of an administration enlightened in all its +branches. + +At the beginning of its institution, the _Dépôt de la guerre_ was no +more than archives, where were collected, and preserved with order, +the memoirs of the generals, their correspondence, the accounts yet +imperfect, and the traces of anterior military operations. + +The numerous resources afforded by this collection alone, the +assistance and advantages derived from it on every occasion, when it +was necessary to investigate a military system, or determine an +important operation, suggested the idea of assembling it under a form +and classification more methodical. Greater attention and exactness +were exerted in enriching the _Dépôt_ with every thing that might +complete the theoretical works and practical elucidations of all the +branches of the military art, + +Marshal DE MAILLEBOIS, who was appointed director of this +establishment in 1730, was one of the first authors of the present +existing order. The classification at first consisted only in forming +registers of the correspondence of the generals, according to date, +distinguishing it by _different wars_. It was divided into two parts, +the former containing the letters of the generals; and the latter, +the minutes or originals of the answers of the king and his +ministers. To each volume was added a summary of the contents, and, +in regular succession, the journal of the military operations of the +year. These volumes, to the number of upwards of two thousand seven +hundred, contain documents from the eleventh century to the close of +the last American war; but the series is perfect only from the year +1631. This was a valuable mine for a historiographer to explore; and, +indeed, it is well known that the _Memoirs of Turenne and of Condé_, +the _History of the war of 1741_, and part of the fragments of the +_Essay on the Manners and History of Nations_, by Voltaire, were +compiled and digested from the original letters and memoirs preserved +in the _Dépôt de la guerre_. + +Geographical engineers did not then exist as a corps. Topography was +practised by insulated officers, impelled thereto by the rather +superficial study of the mathematics and a taste for drawing; because +it was for them a mean of obtaining more advantageous employments in +the staffs of the armies: but the want of a central point, the +difference of systems and methods, not admitting of directing the +operations to one same principle, as well as to one same object, +topography, little encouraged, was making but a slow progress, when +M. DE CHOISEUIL established, as a particular corps, the officers who +had applied themselves to the practice of that science. The _Dépôt_ +was charged to direct and assemble the labours of the new corps. This +authority doubled the utility of the _Dépôt_: its results had the +most powerful influence during the war from 1757 to 1763. + +Lieutenant-General De VAULT, who had succeeded Marshal De MAILLEBOIS +as director of the _Dépôt de la guerre_, conceived, and executed a +plan, destined to render still more familiar and secure the numerous +documents collected in this establishment. He first retrenched from +the _Military Correspondences and Memoirs_ all tedious repetitions +and unnecessary details; he then classed the remainder under the head +of a different army or operation, without subjecting himself to any +other order than a simple chronology; but he caused each volume to be +preceded by a very succinct, historical summary, in order to enable +the reader to seize the essence of the original memoirs and +documents, the text of which was faithfully copied in the body of +each volume, In this manner did he arrange all the military events +from the German war in 1677 to the peace of 1763. This analysis forms +one hundred and twenty five volumes. + +It is easy to conceive how much more interesting these historical +volumes became by the addition, which took place about the same +epoch, of the labours of the geographical engineers employed in the +armies. The military men having it at the same time in his power to +follow the combinations of the generals with the execution of their +plans, imbibes, without difficulty, the principles followed by great +captains, or improves himself from the exact account of the errors +and faults which it is so natural to commit on critical occasions. + +When all the establishments of the old _régime_ were tottering, or +threatened by the revolutionary storm, measures were suggested for +preserving the _Dépôt de la guerre_, and, towards the end of 1791, it +was transferred from Versailles to Paris. Presently the new system of +government, the war declared against the emperor, and the foreseen +conflagration of Europe, concurred to give a new importance to this +establishment. Alone, amidst the general overthrow, it had preserved +a valuable collection of the military and topographical labours of +the monarchy, of manuscripts of the greatest importance, and a body +of information of every kind respecting the resources, and the +country, of the powers already hostile, or on the point of becoming +so. All the utility which might result from the _Dépôt_ was then +felt, and it was thought necessary to give it a new organization.[2] + +The _Dépôt de la guerre_, however, would have attained but +imperfectly the object of its institution, had there not been added +to its topographical treasure, the richest, as well as the finest, +collection in Europe of every geographical work held in any +estimation. The first epochs of the revolution greatly facilitated +the increase of its riches of that description. The general impulse, +imprinted on the mind of the French nation, prompted every will +towards useful sacrifices. Private cabinets in possession of the +scarcest maps, gave them up to the government, The suppression of the +monasteries and abbeys caused to flow to the centre the geographical +riches which they preserved in an obscurity hurtful to the progress +of that important science: and thus the _Dépôt de la guerre_ obtained +one of the richest collections in Europe.[3] The government, besides, +completed it by the delivery of the great map of France by CASSINI, +begun in 1750, together with all the materials forming the elements +of that grand work. It is painful to add that not long before that +period (in 1791) the corps of geographical engineers, which alone +could give utility to such valuable materials had been suppressed.[4] + +In the mean time, the sudden changes in the administrative system had +dispersed the learned societies employed in astronomy, or the +mathematical sciences. The _National Observatory_ was disused. The +celebrated astronomers attached to it had no rallying point: they +could not devote themselves to their labours but amidst the greatest +difficulties; the salary allowed to them was not paid; the numerous +observations, continued for two centuries, were on the point of being +interrupted. + +The _Dépôt de la guerre_ then became the asylum of those estimable +men. This establishment excited and obtained the reverification of +the measure of an arc of the meridian, in order to serve as a basis +for the uniformity of the weights and measures which the government +wished to establish. + +MÉCHAIN, DELAMBRE, NOUET, TRANCHOT, and PERNY were dispatched to +different places from Barcelona to Dunkirk. After having established +at each extremity of this line a base, measured with the greatest +exactness, they were afterwards to advance their triangles, in order +to ascend to the middle point of the line. This operation, which has +served for rectifying a few errors that the want of perfection in the +instruments had occasioned to be introduced into the measure of the +meridian of CASSINI, may be reckoned one of the most celebrated works +which have distinguished the close of the eighteenth century. + +The establishment of the system of administration conformably to the +constitution of the year III (1795) separated the various elements +which the _Dépôt de la guerre_ had found means to preserve. The +_Board of Longitude_ was established; the _National Institute_ was +formed to supply the place of the _Academy of Sciences_, &c. The +_Dépôt de la guerre_ was restored solely to its ancient prerogatives. +Two years before, it had been under the necessity of forming new +geographical engineers and it succeeded in carrying the number +sufficiently high to suffice for the wants of the fourteen armies +which France had afterwards on foot.[5] These officers being employed +in the service of the staffs, no important work was undertaken. But, +since the 18th of Brumaire, year VIII, (9th of November, 1799) the +Consuls of the Republic have bestowed particular attention on +geographical and topographical operations. The new limits of the +French territory require that the map of it should be continued; and +the new political system, resulting from the general pacification, +renders necessary the exact knowledge of the states of the allies of +the Republic. + +The _Dépôt de la guerre_ forms various sections of geographers, who +are at present employed in constructing accurate maps of the four +united departments. Piedmont, Savoy, Helvetia, and the part of Italy +comprised between the Adige and the Adda. One section, in conjunction +with the Bavarian engineers, is constructing a topographical map of +Bavaria: another section is carrying into execution the military +surveys, and other topographical labours, ordered by General MOREAU +for the purpose of forming a map of Suabia. + +The _Dépôt_ has just published an excellent map of the Tyrol, reduced +from that of PAYSAN, and to which have been added the observations +made by Chevaliers DUPAY and LA LUCERNE. It has caused to be resumed +the continuation of the superb map of the environs of Versailles, +called _La carte des chasses_, a master-piece of topography and +execution in all the arts relating to that science. Since the year V +(1795), it has also formed a library composed of upwards of eight +thousand volumes or manuscripts, the most rare, as well as the most +esteemed, respecting every branch of the military art in general. + +Although, in the preceding account, General A----y, with that modesty +which is the characteristic of a superior mind, has been totally +silent respecting his own indefatigable exertions, I have learned +from the best authority, that France is soon likely to derive very +considerable advantages from the activity and talent introduced by +him, as director, into every branch of the _Dépôt de la guerre_, and +of which he has afforded in his own person an illustrious example. + +In giving an impulse to the interior labours of the _Dépôt_, the sole +object of General A----y is to make this establishment lose its +_paralyzing_ destination of archives, in which, from time to time, +literati might come to collect information concerning some periods of +national or foreign history. He is of opinion that these materials +ought to be drawn from oblivion, and brought into action by those +very persons who, having the experience of war, are better enabled +than any others to arrange its elements. Instruction and method being +the foundations of a good administration, of the application of an +art and of a science, as well as of their improvement, he has +conceived the idea of uniting in a classical work the exposition of +the knowledge necessary for the direction of the _Dépôt_, for +geographical engineers, staff-officers, military men in general, and +historians. This, then, is the object of the _Mémomorial du Dépôt de +la guerre_, a periodical work, now in hand, which will become the +guide of every establishment of this nature[6], by directing with +method the various labours used in the application of mathematical +and physical sciences to topography, and to that art which, of all +others, has the greatest influence on the destiny of empires: I mean +the art military. The improvements of which it is still susceptible +will be pointed out in the _Mémorial_, and every new idea proposed on +the subject will there be critically investigated. + +In transcribing General A----y's sketch of this extremely-interesting +establishment, I cannot but reflect on the striking contrast that it +presents, in point of geographical riches, even half a century ago, +to the disgraceful poverty, in that line, which, about the same +period, prevailed in England, and was severely felt in the planning +of our military expeditions. + +I remember to have been told by the late Lord Howe, that, when he was +captain of the Magnanime at Plymouth, and was sent for express to +London, in the year 1757, in order to command the naval part of an +expedition to the coast of France, George II, and the whole cabinet +council, seemed very much astonished at his requiring the production +of a map of that part of the enemy's coast against which the +expedition was intended. Neither in the apartment where the council +sat, nor in any adjoining one, was any such document; even in the +Admiralty-office no other than an indifferent map of the coast could +be found: as for the adjacent country, it was so little known in +England, that, when the British troops landed, their commander was +ignorant of the distance of the neighbouring villages. + +Of late years, indeed, we have ordered these matters better; but, to +judge from circumstances, it should seem that we are still extremely +deficient in geographical and topographical knowledge; though we are +not quite so ill informed as in the time of a certain duke, who, when +First Lord of the Treasury, asked in what part of Germany was the +Ohio? + +P.S. In order to give you, at one view, a complete idea of the +collections of the _Dépôt de la guerre_, and of what they have +furnished during the war for the service of the government and of the +armies, I shall end my letter by stating that, independently of eight +thousand chosen volumes, among which is a valuable collection of +atlases, of two thousand seven hundred volumes of old archives, and +of upwards of nine hundred _cartons_ or pasteboard boxes of modern +original documents, the _Dépôt_ possesses one hundred and thirty-one +volumes and seventy-eight _cartons_ of descriptive memoirs, composed +at least of fifty memoirs each, four thousand seven hundred engraved +maps, of each of which there are from two to twenty-five copies, +exclusively of those printed at the _Dépôt_, and upwards of seven +thousand four hundred valuable manuscript maps, plans, or drawings of +marches, battles, sieges, &c. + +By order of the government, it has furnished, in the course of the +war, seven thousand two hundred and seventy-eight engraved maps, two +hundred and seven manuscript maps or plans, sixty-one atlases of +various parts of the globe, and upwards of six hundred descriptive +memoirs. + +[Footnote 1: FRANÇOIS ANDREOSSY; who was the great great grandfather +of the present French ambassador at our court.] + +[Footnote 2: On the 25th of April, 1792, was published a regulation, +decreed by the king, respecting the general direction of the _Dépôt +de la guerre_. The annual expense of the establishment, at that time +amounted to 68,000 francs, but the geographical and historical +departments were not filled. _Note of the Author._] + +[Footnote 3: An _Agence des cartes_ was appointed, by the National +Assembly, to class these materials, and arrange them in useful +order.] + +[Footnote 4: At the juncture alluded to (1793), the want of +geographical engineers having been felt as soon as the armies took +the field, three brigades were formed, each consisting of twelve +persons. The composition of the _Dépôt de la guerre_, was increased +in proportion to its importance: intelligent officers were placed +there; and no less than thirty-eight persons were employed in the +interior labour, that is, in drawing plans of campaigns, sieges, &c. +_Note of the Author_.] + +[Footnote 5: That tempestuous period having dispersed the then +director and his assistants, the _Dépôt de la guerre_ remained, for +some time, without officers capable of conducting it in a manner +useful to the country. In the mean while, wants were increasing, and +military operations daily becoming more important, when, in 1793, +CARNOT, then a member of the Committee of Public Welfare, formed a +private cabinet of topography, the elements of which he drew from the +_Dépôt de la guerre_. This was a first impulse given to these +valuable collections. _Note of the Author_.] + +[Footnote 6: Prince Charles is employed at Vienna in forming a +collection of books, maps, and military memoirs for the purpose of +establishing a _Dépôt_ for the instruction of the staff-officers of +the Austrian army. Spain has also begun to organize a system of +military topography in imitation of that of France. Portugal follows +the example. What are we doing in England?] + + + +LETTER XXVII + +_Paris, December 3, 1801_. + +In this season, when the blasts of November have entirely stripped +the trees of their few remaining leaves, and Winter has assumed his +hoary reign, the garden of the _Tuileries_, loses much of the gaiety +of its attractions. Besides, to frequent that walk, at present, is +like visiting daily one of our theatres, you meet the same faces so +often, that the scene soon becomes monotonous. As well for the sake +of variety as exercise, I therefore now and then direct my steps +along the + +BOULEVARDS. + +This is the name given to the promenades with which Paris is, in +part, surrounded for an extent of six thousand and eighty-four +toises. + +They are distinguished by the names of the _Old_ and the _New_. The +_Old_, or _North Boulevards_, commonly called the _Grands +Boulevards_, were begun in 1536, and, when faced with ditches, which +were to have been dug, they were intended to serve as fortifications +against the English who were ravaging Picardy, and threatening the +capital. Thence, probably, the etymology of their name; _Boulevard_ +signifying, as every one knows, a bulwark. + +However this may be, the extent of these _Old_ Boulevards is two +thousand four hundred toises from the _Rue de la Concorde_ to the +_Place de la Liberté_, formerly the site of the Bastille. They were +first planted in 1660, and are formed into three alleys by four rows +of trees: the middle alley is appropriated to carriages and persons +on horseback, and the two lateral ones are for foot-passengers. + +Here, on each side, is assembled every thing that ingenuity can +imagine for the diversion of the idle stroller, or the recreation of +the man of business. Places of public entertainment, ambulating +musicians, exhibitions of different kinds, temples consecrated to +love or pleasure, Vauxhalls, ball-rooms, magnificent hotels, and +other tasteful buildings, &c. Even the coffee-houses and taverns here +have their shady bowers, and an agreeable orchestra. Thus, you may +always dine in Paris with a band of music to entertain you, without +additional expense. + +The _New_ Boulevards, situated to the south, were finished in 1761. +They are three thousand six hundred and eighty-three toises in extent +from the _Observatoire_ to the _Hôtel des Invalides_. Although laid +out much in the same manner as the _Old_, there is little resemblance +between them; each having a very distinct appearance. + +On the _New Boulevards_, the alleys are both longer and wider, and +the trees are likewise of better growth. There, the prospect is +rural; and the air pure; while cultivated fields, with growing corn, +present themselves to the eye. Towards the town, however, stand +several pretty houses; little theatres even were built, but did not +succeed. This was not their latitude. But some skittle-grounds and +tea-gardens, lately opened, and provided with swings, &c. have +attracted much company of a certain class in the summer. + +In this quarter, you seldom meet with a carriage, scarcely ever with +persons sprucely dressed, but frequently with honest citizens, +accompanied by their whole family, as plain in their garb as in their +manners. Lovers too with their mistresses, who seek solitude, visit +this retired walk; and now and then a poor poet comes hither, not to +sharpen his appetite, but to arrange his numbers. + +Before, the revolution, the _Old_ Boulevards, from the _Porte St. +Martin_ to the _Théâtre Favart_, was the rendezvous of the +_élegantes_, who, on Sundays and Thursdays, used to parade there +slowly, backward and forward, in their carriages, as our belles do in +Hyde Park; with this difference, that, if their admirers did not +accompany them, they generally followed them to interchange +significant glances, or indulge in amorous parley. I understand that +the summer lounge of the modern _élegantes_ has, of late years, been +from the corner of the _Rue Grange Batelière_ to that of the _Rue +Mont-Blanc_, where the ladies took their seats. This attracting the +_muscadins_ in great numbers, not long since obtained for that part +of the Boulevard the appellation of _Petit Coblentz_. + +Nearly about the middle of the North Boulevard stand two edifices, +which owe their erection to the vanity of Lewis XIV. In the +gratification of that passion did the _Grand Monarque_ console +himself for his numerous defeats and disappointments; and the age in +which he lived being fertile in great men, owing, undoubtedly, to the +encouragement he afforded them, his display of it was well seconded +by their superior talents. Previously to his reign, Paris had several +gates, but some of these being taken down, arcs of triumph, in +imitation of those of the Romans, were erected in their stead by +_Louis le Grand_, in commemoration of his exploits. And this too, at +a time when the allies might, in good earnest, have marched to Paris, +had they not, by delay, given Marshal Villars an opportunity of +turning the tide of their victories on the plain of Denain. Such was +the origin of the + +PORTE SAINT DENIS. + +The magnificence of its architecture classes it among the first +public monuments in Paris. It consists of a triumphal arch, insulated +in the manner of those of the ancients: it is seventy-two feet in +diameter as well as in elevation, and was executed in 1672, by BULLET +from the designs of BLONDEL. + +On each side of the principal entrance rise two sculptured pyramids, +charged with trophies of arms, both towards the faubourg, and towards +the city. Underneath each of these pyramids is a small collateral +passage for persons on foot. The arch is ornamented with two +bas-reliefs: the one facing the city represents the passage of +the Rhine; and the other, the capture of Maestricht. + +On the frieze on both sides LUDOVICO MAGNO was formerly to be read, +in large characters of gilt bronze. This inscription is removed, and +to it are substituted the word _Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité_. + +On arriving from Calais, you enter Paris by the _Porte St. Denis_. It +was also by the _Porte St. Denis_ that kings and queens made their +public entry. On these occasions, the houses in all the streets +through which they passed, were decorated with silk hangings and +tapestry, as far as the cathedral of _Notre-Dame_. Scented waters +perfumed the air in the form of _jets d'eau_; while wine and milk +flowed from the different public fountains. + +Froissard relates that, on the entrance of Isabeau de Bavière, there +was in the _Rue St. Denis_ a representation of a clouded heaven, +thickly sown with stars, whence descended two angels who gently +placed on her head a very rich crown of gold, set with precious +stones, at the same time singing verses in her praise. + +It was on this occasion that Charles VI, anxious for a sight of his +intended bride, took a fancy to mix in the crowd, mounted on +horseback behind Savoisi, his favourite. Pushing forward in order to +approach her, he received from the serjeants posted to keep off the +populace several sharp blows on the shoulders, which occasioned great +mirth in the evening, when the circumstance was related before the +queen and her ladies. + +Proceeding along the Boulevard towards the east, at a short distance +from the _Porte St. Denis_, you arrive at the + +PORTE SAINT MARTIN. + +Although this triumphal arch cannot be compared to the preceding in +magnificence, it was nevertheless executed by the same artists, +having been erected in 1674. It is pierced with three openings, the +centre one of which is eighteen feet wide, and the two others nine. +The whole structure, which is fifty-four feet both in height and +breadth, is rusticated, and in the spandles of the arch are four +bas-reliefs; the two towards the city represent the capture of +Besançon, and the rupture of the triple alliance; and those towards +the faubourg, the capture of Lomberg, and the defeat of the Germans +under the emblem of an eagle repulsed by the god of war. These +bas-reliefs are crowned by an entablature of the Doric order, +surmounted by an attic. The _Porte St. Martin_ is the grand +entrance into Paris from all parts of Flanders. + +At the west extremity of this _North_ Boulevard, facing the _Rue de +la Concorde_, stands an unfinished church, called _La Magdeleine_, +whose cemetery received not only the bodies of Lewis XVI, his +consort, and his sister, but of the greater part of the victims that +perished by guillotine. + +In the space comprised between _La Magdeleine_ and the _Vieille Rue +du Temple_, I speak within compass when I say that there are +sometimes to be seen fifty ambulating conjurers of both sexes. They +all vary the form of their art. Some have tables, surmounted by +flags, bearing mysterious devices; some have wheels, with +compartments adapted to every age and profession--One has a robe +charged with hieroglyphics, and tells you your fortune through a long +tube which conveys the sound to your ear; the other makes you choose +in a parcel, a square piece of white paper, which becomes covered +with characters at the moment when it is thrown into a jug that +appears empty. The secret of this is as follows: + +The jug contains a little sulphuret of potash, and the words are +written with acetite of lead. The action of the exterior air, on, the +sulphuret of potash, disengages from it sulphurated hydrogen gas, +which, acting on the oxyd of lead, brings to view the characters that +before were invislble. + +Here, the philosophic Parisians stop before the movable stall of an +astrologer, who has surmounted it with an owl, as an emblem of his +magic wisdom. Many of them take this animal for a curiosity imported +from foreign countries; for they are seldom able to distinguish a bat +from a swallow. + +"Does that bird come from China, my dear?" says a lusty dame to her +elderly husband, a shopkeeper of the _Rue St. Denis_.--"I don't know, +my love," replies the other.--"What eyes it has got," continues she; +"it must see a great deal better than we." "No;" cries a countryman +standing by; "though its eyes are so big, it can't, in broad day, +tell a cow from a calf." + +The lady continues her survey of the scientific repository; and the +conjurer, with an air of importance, proposes to her to draw, for two +_sous_, a motto from Merlin's wheel. "Take one, my dear," says the +husband; "I wish to know whether you love me." The wife blushes and +hesitates; the husband insists; she refuses, and is desirous of +continuing her walk, saying that it is all foolishness.--"What if it +is?" rejoins the husband, "I've paid, so take a motto to please me." +For this once, the lady is quite at a nonplus; she at last consents, +and, with a trembling hand, draws a card from the magic wheel: the +husband unrolls it with eagerness and confidence, and reads these +words: "_My young lover is and will be constant_."--"What the devil +does this mean?" exclaims the old husband; quite disconcerted. +--"'Tis a mistake," says the conjurer; "the lady put her hand into +the wrong box; she drew the motto from the wheel for _young girls_, +instead of that for _married women_. Let _Madame_ draw again, she +shall pay nothing more."--"No, Mr. Conjurer," replies the shopkeeper, +"that's enough. I've no faith in such nonsense; but another time, +madam, take care that you don't put your hand into the wrong box." +The fat lady, with her face as red as fire, follows her husband, who +walks off grumbling, and it is easy to see, by their gestures, that +the fatal motto has sown discord in the family, and confirmed the +shopkeeper's suspicions. + +Independently of these divers into futurity, the corners of streets +and walls of public squares, are covered with hand-bills announcing +books containing secrets, sympathetic calculations of numbers in the +lottery, the explanation of dreams in regard to those numbers, +together with the different manners of telling fortunes, and +interpreting prognostics. + +At all times, the marvellous has prevailed over simple truth, and the +Cumæan Sibyl attracted the inquisitive in greater crowds than +Socrates, Plato, or any philosopher, had pupils in the whole course +of their existence. + +In Paris, the sciences are really making a rapid progress, +notwithstanding the fooleries of the pseudo-philosophers, who parade +the streets, and here, on the _Boulevards_, as well as in other parts +of the town, exhibit lessons of physics. + +One has an electrifying machine, and phials filled with phosphorus: +for two _sous_, he gives you a slight shock, and makes you a present +of a small phial. + +Farther on, you meet with a _camera obscura_, whose effect surprises +the spectators the more, as the objects represented within it have +the motion which they do not find in common optics. + +There, you see a double refracting telescope: for two _sous_, you +enjoy its effect. At either end, you place any object whatever, and +though a hat, a board, or a child be introduced between the two +glasses, the object placed appears not, on that account, the less +clear and distinct to the eye of the person looking through the +opposite glass. _Pierre_ has seen, and cannot believe his eyes: +_Jacques_ wishes to see, and, on seeing, is in ecstacy: next comes +_Fanchon_, who remains stupified. Enthusiasm becomes general, and the +witnesses of their delirium are ready to go mad at not having two +_sous_ in their pocket. + +Another fellow, in short, has a microscope, of which he extols the +beauty, and, above all, the effects: he will not describe the causes +which produce them, because he is unacquainted with them; but, +provided he adapts his lessons to the understanding of those who +listen to him, this is all he wants. Sometimes he may be heard to say +to the people about him: "Gentlemen, give me a creeping insect, and +for one _sou_, I will shew it to you as big as my fist." Sometimes +too, unfortunately for him, the insect which he requires is more +easily found among part of his auditors, than the money. + +P.S. For the preceding account of the Parisian conjurers I am +indebted to M. Pujoulx. + + + +LETTER XXVIII. + +_Paris, December 4, 1802_. + +In one of your former letters you questioned me on a subject, which, +though it had not escaped my notice, I was desirous to avoid, till I +should be able to obtain on it some precise information. This I have +done; and I hasten to present you with the following sketch, which +will afford you a tolerably-correct idea of the + +FRENCH FUNDS, AND NATIONAL DEBT. + +The booked or consolidated debt is called + +TIERS CONSOLIDÉ, + +from its being the consolidated third of the national debt, of which +the remaining two-thirds were reimbursed in _Bons de deux Tiers_ in +1797 and 98. It bears interest at five per Cent. payable half yearly +at the _Banque de France_. The payment of the interest is at present +six months in arrear. But the intention of the government is, by +paying off in specie the interest of one whole year, to pay in future +as soon as due. + +The days of payment are the 1st of Germinal (23d of March) and the +1st of Vendémiaire (23d of September). + +This stock purchased at the present price of from 55 to 60 would +produce from eight to nine per cent. The general opinion is, that it +will rise to 80; and as it is the chief stock, and the standard of +the national credit, it is the interest, and must be the constant +object of the government to keep up its price. + +There is a _Caisse d'amortissement_ or Sinking Fund, for the special +purpose of paying off this stock, the effect of which, though not +exactly known, must shortly be very considerable. The _Tiers +Consolidé_ is saleable and transferable at a moment's warning, and at +a trifling expense. It is not subject to taxation, nor open to +attachments, either on the principal or interest. + +For purchasing, no sort of formality is required; but for receiving +interest, or selling, it is necessary to produce a power of attorney. +An established rule is, that the seller always retains his right to +half a year's interest at the succeeding stated period of payment, so +that he who purchases in the interval between March and September, is +entitled to the interest commencing from the 23d of the latter month +only; and he who buys between September and March, receives not his +first dividend till the 23d of the following September. + +TIERS PROVISOIRE. + +This is the debt, yet unbooked, which is composed of the provisional +claims of the creditors of the emigrants, the contractors, and +various other holders of claims on the government. + +The _Tiers Provisoire_ is to be booked before the 1st of Vendémiaire, +year XII of the Republic (23d of September, 1803), and will from that +day bear interest of five per cent; so that, setting aside the danger +of any retrospect in the interval, and that of any other change, it +is at the present price, of from 15 to 50, cheaper than the _Tiers +Consolidé_ to which, in about eighteen months, it will, in every +respect, be assimilated. + +BONS DE DEUX TIERS, + +Is paper issued for the purpose of reimbursing the reduced two-thirds +of the National Debt, and in the origin rendered applicable to the +purchase of national houses and estates in the French Colonies, since +ordered to be funded at five per cent; so that the price of this +species of paper is entirely subordinate to that of the _Tiers +Consolidé_ and supposing that to be 60 francs per cent, the _Bon de +deux Tiers_ would be worth 3 francs. There are no hopes, however +distant, that the government will ever restore the _Bons de deux +Tiers_ to their original value. + +BONS DE TROIS QUARTS, + +So called from having been issued for the purpose of reimbursing the +three-fourths of the interest of the fifth and sixth years of the +Republic (1797 to 1798). They are, in all respects, assimilated to +the preceding stock. + +COUPONS D'EMPRUNT FORCÉ. + +These are the receipts given by the government to the persons who +contributed to the various forced loans. This paper is likewise +assimilated to the two last-mentioned species, with this difference, +that it is generally considered as a less sacred claim, and is +therefore liquidated with greater difficulty. The holders of these +three claims are hastening the liquidation and consolidation of them, +and they are evidently right in so doing. + +QUARTS AU NOM ET QUART NUMÉRAIRE. + + +This paper is thus denominated from its having been issued for the +purpose of reimbursing the fourth of the dividend of the fifth and +sixth years of the Republic (1797 to 1798). It is generally thought +that this very sacred claim on the government will be funded _in +toto_. + +RACHATS DE RENTE, + +Is the name given to the redemption of perpetual annuities due by +individuals to the government, on a privileged mortgage on landed +estates; the said annuities having been issued by the government in +times of great distress, for the purpose of supplying immediate and +urgent events. + +This paper is not only a mere government security, but is also +specially mortgaged on the estates of the person who owes the annuity +to the government, and who is, at any time, at liberty to redeem it +at from twenty to twenty-five years purchase. Claims of this +description, mortgaged on most desirable estates near the metropolis, +might be obtained for less than 60 per cent; which, at the interest +of five per cent, and with the additional advantage, in some +instances, of the arrears of one or two years, would produce between +eight and nine per cent. + +Next to the _Tiers Consolidé_, _Rachats de Rente_ are particularly +worthy of attention; indeed, this debt is of so secure and sacred a +nature, that the government has appropriated a considerable part of +it to the special purpose and service of the hospitals and schools; +two species of institutions which ought ever to be sheltered from all +vicissitudes, and which, whatever may be the form or character of the +government, must be supported and respected. + +ACTIONS DE LA BANQUE DE FRANCE. + +These are shares in the National Bank of France, which are limited to +the number of thirty thousand, and were originally worth one thousand +francs each; they therefore form a capital of 30,000,000 francs, or +£1,250,000 sterling, and afford as follows: + +1. A dividend which at present, and since the foundation, has +averaged from eight to ten per cent, arising from the profits on +discount. + +2. A profit of from four to five per cent more on the discount of +paper, which every holder of an _action_ or share effects at the +Bank, at the rate of one-half per cent per month, or six per cent for +the whole year. + +The present price of an _action_ is about twelve hundred francs, +which may be considered as producing: + +80 francs; dividend paid by the Bank on each share. + +30 francs; certain profits according to the present discount of +bills. + +110 francs; per share 10-10/11 per cent. + +_Actions de la Banque de France_, though subject, in common with all +stocks, to the influence of the government, are, however, far more +independent of it than any other, and are the more secure, as the +National Bank is not only composed of all the first bankers, but also +supported by the principal merchants in the country. This investment +is at present very beneficial, and certainly promises great eventual +advantages. The dividends are paid in two half-yearly instalments. + +ACTIONS DE LA CAISSE DE COMMERCE, +ET +ACTIONS DU COMPTOIR COMMERCIAL. + +The _Caisse de Commerce_ and the _Comptoir Commercial_ are two +establishments on the same plan, and affording, as nearly as +possible, the same advantages as the _Banque de France_: the +only difference is as follows: + +1. These last two are, as far as any commercial establishment can be, +independent of the government, and are more so than the _Banque de +France_, as the _actions_ or shares are not considered as being a +public fund. + +2. The _Actions de la Caisse de Commerce_ limited in number to two +thousand four hundred, originally cost 5000 francs, and are now worth +6000. The holder of each _action_ moreover, signs circulating notes +to the amount of five thousand francs, which form the paper currency +of the Bank, and for the payment of which the said holder would be +responsible, were the Bank to stop payment. + +3. The _Actions du Comptoir Commercial_ are still issued by the +administrators of the establishment. The number of _actions_ is not +as yet limited: the price of each _action_ is fifteen hundred francs +(_circa_ £60 sterling), and the plan and advantages are almost +entirely similar to those of the two last-mentioned institutions. + +The _Banque de France_ the _Caisse de Commerce_, and the _Comptoir +Commercial_, discount three times a week. The first, the paper of the +banking-houses and the principal commercial houses holding +bank-stock; the second, the paper of the wholesale merchants of every +class; and the third, the paper of retailers of all descriptions; and +in a circulation which amounts to 100 millions of francs (_circa_ 4 +millions sterling) per month, there have not, it is said, been seen, +in the course of the last month, protests to the amount of 20,000 +francs. + +BONS DE L'AN VII ET DE L'AN VIII. + +Is a denomination applied to paper, issued for the purpose of paying +the dividend of the debt during the seventh and eighth years of the +Republic. + +These _Bons_ are no further deserving of notice than as they still +form a part of the floating debt, and are an article of the supposed +liquidation at the conclusion of the present summary. It is therefore +unnecessary to say more of them. + +ARRÉRAGES DES ANNÉES V ET VI. + +These are the arrears due to such holders of stock as, during the +fifth and sixth years of the Republic, had not their dividend paid in +_Bons de trois Quarts_ and _Quart Numéraire_, mentioned in Art. IV +and VI of this sketch. I also notice them as forming an essential +part of the above-mentioned supposed liquidation, at the end of the +sketch, and shall only add that it is the general opinion that they +will be funded. + +To the preceding principal investments and claims on the government, +might be added the following: + + _Coupes de Bois. + Cédules Hypothécaires. + Rescriptions de Domaines Nationaux. + Actions de la Caisse des Rentiers. + Actions des Indes. + Bons de Moines et Réligieuses. + Obligations de Reçeveur._ + +However, they are almost entirely unworthy of attention, and afford +but occasionally openings for speculation. Of the last, (_Obligations +de Reçeveur_) it may be necessary to observe that they are monthy +acceptances issued by the Receivers-General of all the departments, +which the government has given to the five bankers, charged with +supplying money for the current service, as security for their +advances, and which are commonly discounted at from 7/8 to one per +cent per month. + +I shall terminate this concise, though accurate sketch of the French +funds by a general statement of the National Debt, and by an account +of an annuity supposed to be held by a foreigner before the +revolution, and which, to become _Tiers Consolidé_, must undergo the +regular process of reduction and liquidation. + + +_National Debt_. + + _Francs._ + + Consolidated Stock (_Tiers Consolidé_) 38,750,000 + Floating Debt, to be consolidated, about 23,000,000 + Life Annuities 20,000,000 + Ecclesiastical, Military, and other Pensions 19,000,000 + ----------- + 100,750,000 + + The value of a _franc_ is something more + than 10_d_. English money: according to + which calculation, the National Debt of + France is in round numbers no more than £4,000,000 + +Supposed liquidation of an annuity of £100. sterling, or 2,400 +_livres tournois_ held by a foreigner before the war and yet +unliquidated. + + _Francs._ + Original Annuity 2,400 + _Tiers Consolidé + Bons de deux Tiers_ 2,400 + +The actual value of the whole, including the arreared dividends up to +the present day is as follows: + + _Francs._ + _Tiers Consolidé_ as above, + 800 francs sold at 60 francs 9,600 + _Bons de deux Tiers_, ditto + 1600 francs sold at 3 francs 48 + + +Arrears from the first year of the Republic to the fifth ditto (23d +of September, 1792 to the 23d of September, 1797) are to be paid in +Assignats, and are of no value. + + Arrears of the fifth and sixth years supposed to + be liquidated so as to afford 25 per cent of + their nominal value, about 600 + Arrears in _Bons_ for the year VII, valued at 50 + per cent loss 400 + Arrears of the year VIII, due in _Bons_, valued + at 25 per cent loss 600 + Arrears of the year IX, due in specie 600 + Arrears of the year X, of which three months + are nearly elapsed 200 + ----- + Total of the principal and interest of an original + annuity of 2,400 livres, reduced (according + to law) to 800 12,248 + Or in sterling, _circa_ £500 + ------ + +I had almost forgot that you have asked me more than once for an +explanation of the exact value of a modern franc. The following you +may depend on as correct. + +The _unité monétaire_ is a piece of silver of the weight of five +_grammes_, containing a tenth of alloy and nine tenths of pure +silver. It is called _Franc_, and is subdivided into _Décimes_, and +_Centimes_: its value is to that of the old _livre tournois_ in the +proportion of 81 to 80. + + _Value in livres tournois._ + liv. sous. deniers. + Franc 1 0 3 + Décime 2 0.3 + Centime 2.43 + + + +LETTER XXIX. + +_Paris, December 7, 1801_. + +At the grand monthly parade of the 15th of last Brumaire, I had seen +the First Consul chiefly on horseback: on which account, I determined +to avail myself of that of the 15th of the present month of Frimaire, +in order to obtain a nearer view of his person. On these occasions, +none but officers in complete uniform are admitted into the palace of +the _Tuileries_, unless provided with tickets, which are distributed +to a certain number at the discretion of the governor. General A----y +sent me tickets by ten o'clock this morning, and about half after +eleven, I repaired to the palace. + +On reaching the vestibule from the garden of the _Tuileries_, you +ascend the grand stair-case to the left, which conducts you to the +guard-room above it in the centre pavilion. Hence you enter the +apartments of the Chief Consul. + +On the days of the grand parade, the first room is destined for +officers as low as the rank of captain, and persons admitted with +tickets; the second, for field-officers; the third, for generals; and +the fourth, for councellors of state, and the diplomatic corps. To +the east, the windows of these apartments command the court-yard +where the troops are assembled; while to the west, they afford a fine +view of the garden of the _Tuileries_ and the avenue leading to the +_Barrière de Chaillot_. In the first-room, those windows which +overlook the parade were occupied by persons standing five or six in +depth, some of whom, as I was informed, had been patient enough to +retain their places for the space of two or three hours, and among +them were a few ladies. Here, a sort of lane was formed from door to +door by some grenadiers of the consular guard. I found both sides of +this lane so much crowded, that I readily accepted the invitation of +a _chef de brigade_ of my acquaintance to accompany him into the +second room; this, he observed, was no more than a privilege to which +I was entitled. This room was also crowded; but it exhibited a most +brilliant _coup d'oeil_ from the great variety and richness of the +uniforms of the field-officers here assembled, by which mine was +entirely eclipsed. The lace or embroidery is not merely confined to +the coats, jackets, and pantaloons, but extends to the sword belts, +and even to the boots, which are universally worn by the military. +Indeed, all the foreign ambassadors admit that none of the levees of +the European courts can vie in splendour with those of the Chief +Consul. + +My first care on entering this room, was to place myself in a +situation which might afford me an uninterrupted view of BONAPARTE. +About twenty-five minutes past twelve, his sortie was announced by a +_huissier_. Immediately after, he came out of the inner apartment, +attended by several officers of rank, and, traversing all the other +rooms with a quick step, proceeded, uncovered, to the parade, the +order of which I have described to you in a former letter. On the +present occasion, however, it lasted longer on account of the +distribution of arms of honour, which the First Consul presents with +his own hand to those heroes who have signalized themselves in +fighting their country's battles. + +This part of the ceremony, which was all that I saw of the parade +yesterday, naturally revived in my mind the following question, so +often agitated: "Are the military successes of the French the +consequences of a new system of operations and new tactics, or merely +the effect of the blind courage of a mass of men, led on by chiefs +whose resolutions were decided by presence of mind alone and +circumstances?" + +The latter method of explaining their victories has been frequently +adopted, and the French generals have been reproached with lavishing +the lives of thousands for the sake of gaining unimportant +advantages, or repairing inconsiderable faults. + +Sometimes, indeed, it should seem that a murderous obstinacy has +obtained them successes to which prudence had not paved the way; but, +certainly, the French can boast, too, of memorable days when talent +had traced the road to courage, when vast plans combined with +judgment, have been followed with perseverance, when resources have +been found in those awful moments in which Victory, hovering over a +field of carnage, leaves the issue of the conflict doubtful, till a +sudden thought, a ray of genius, inclines her in favour of the +general, thus inspired, and then art may be said to triumph over art, +and valour over valour. + +And whence came most of these generals who have shewn this +inspiration, if I may so term it? Some, as is well known, emerged +from the schools of jurisprudence; some, from the studies of the +arts; and others, from the counting-houses of commerce, as well as +from the lowest ranks of the army. Previously to the revolution it +was not admitted, in this country at least, that such sources could +furnish men fit to be one day the arbiters of battles and of the fate +of empires. Till that period, all those Frenchmen who had +distinguished themselves in the field, had devoted themselves from +their infancy to the profession of arms, were born near the throne of +which they constituted the lustre, or in that cast who arrogated to +themselves the exclusive right of defending their country. The glory +of the soldier was not considered; and a private must have been more +than a hero to be as much remarked as a second lieutenant. + +Men of reflection, seeing the old tactics fail against successful +essays, against enthusiasm whose effects are incalculable, studied +whether new ideas did not direct some new means; for it would have +been no less absurd to grant all to valour than to attribute all to +art. But to return to the main subject of my letter. + +In about three quarters of an hour, BONAPARTE came back from the +parade, with the same suite as before, that is, preceded by his +aides-de-camp, and followed by the generals and field-officers of the +consular guard, the governor of the palace, the general commanding +the first military division, and him at the head of the garrison of +Paris. For my part, I scarcely saw any one but himself; BONAPARTE +alone absorbed my whole attention. + +A circumstance occurred which gave me an opportunity of observing the +Chief Consul with critical minuteness. I had left the second room, +and taken my station in front of the row of gazers, close to the +folding-doors which opened into the first room, in order to see him +receive petitions and memorials. There was no occasion for BONAPARTE +to cast his eyes from side to side, like the _Grand Monarque_ coming +from mass, by way of inviting petitioners to approach him. They +presented themselves in such numbers that, after he put his hat under +his arm, both his hands were full in a moment. To enable him to +receive other petitions, he was under the necessity of delivering the +first two handfuls to his aides-de-camp. I should like to learn what +becomes of all these papers, and whether he locks them up in a little +desk of which he alone has the key, as was the practice of Lewis XIV. + +When BONAPARTE approached the door of the second room, he was +effectually impeded in his progress by a lady, dressed in white, who, +throwing herself at his feet, gracefully presented to him a memorial, +which he received with much apparent courtesy; but still seemed, by +his manner, desirous to pass forward. However, the crowd was so +considerable and so intent on viewing this scene, that the +grenadiers, posted near the spot where it took place, were obliged to +use some degree of violence before they could succeed in clearing a +passage. + +Of all the portraits which you and I have seen of BONAPARTE in +England, that painted by Masquerier, and exhibited in Piccadilly, +presents the greatest resemblance. But for his side-face, you may, +for twelve _sous_, here procure a perfect likeness of it at almost +every stall in the street. In short, his features are such as may, in +my opinion, be easily copied by any artist of moderate abilities. +However incompetent I may be to the task, I shall, as you desire it, +attempt to _sketch_ his person; though I doubt not that any French +_commis_, in the habit of describing people by words, might do it +greater justice. + +BONAPARTE is rather below the middle size, somewhat inclined to +stoop, and thin in person; but, though of a slight make, he appears +to be muscular, and capable of fatigue; his forehead is broad, and +shaded by dark brown hair, which is cut short behind; his eyes, of +the same colour, are full, quick, and prominent; his nose is +aquiline; his chin, protuberant and pointed; his complexion, of a +yellow hue; and his cheeks, hollow. His countenance, which is of a +melancholy cast, expresses much sagacity and reflection: his manner +is grave and deliberate, but at the same time open. On the whole, his +aspect announces him to be of a temperate and phlegmatic disposition; +but warm and tenacious in the pursuit of his object, and impatient of +contradiction. Such, at least, is the judgment which I should form of +BONAPARTE from his external appearance. + +While I was surveying this man of universal talent, my fancy was not +idle. First, I beheld him, flushed with ardour, directing the assault +of the _téte-de-pont_ at _Lodi_; next dictating a proclamation to the +Beys at _Cairo_, and styling himself the friend of the faithful; then +combating the ebullition of his rage on being foiled in the storming +of _Acre_ I afterwards imagined I saw him like another CROMWELL, +expelling the Council of Five Hundred at _St. Cloud_, and seizing on +the reins of government: when established in power, I viewed him, +like HANNIBAL, crossing the _Alps_, and forcing victory to yield to +him the hard-contested palm at _Marengo_; lastly, he appeared to my +imagination in the act of giving the fraternal embrace to Caprara, +the Pope's legate, and at the same time holding out to the see of +Rome the re-establishment of catholicism in France. + +Voltaire says that "no man ever was a hero in the eyes of his +_valet-de-chambre_." I am curious to know whether the valet of the +First Consul be an exception to this maxim. As to BONAPARTE'S public +character, numerous, indeed, are the constructions put on it by the +voice of rumour: some ascribe to him one great man of antiquity as a +model; some, another; but many compare him, in certain respects, to +JULIUS CÆSAR, as imitators generally succeed better in copying the +failings than the good qualities of their archetypes, let us hope, +supposing this comparison to be a just one, that the Chief Consul +will, in one particular, never lose sight of the generous clemency of +that illustrious Roman--who, if any spoke bitterly against him, +deemed it sufficient to complain of the circumstance publicly, in +order to prevent them from persevering in the use of such language. +"_Acerbè loquentibus satis habuit pro concione denunciare, ne +perseverarent._" + +"The character of a great man," says a French political writer, who +denies the justness of this comparison, "like the celebrated picture +of Zeuxis, can be formed only of a multitude of imitations, and it is +as little possible for the observer to find for him a single model in +history, as it was for the painter of Heraclea to discover in nature +that of the ideal beauty he was desirous of representing[1]."--"The +French revolution," observes the same author, a little farther on, +"has, perhaps, produced more than one CÆSAR, or one CROMWELL; but +they have disappeared before they have had it in their power to give +full scope to their ambition[2]." Time will decide on the truth and +impartiality of these observations of M. HAUTERIVE. + +As at the last monthly parade, BONAPARTE was habited in the consular +dress, that is, a coat of scarlet velvet, embroidered with gold: he +wore jockey boots, carelessly drawn over white cotton pantaloons, and +held in his hand a cocked hat, with the national cockade only. I say +only, because all the generals wear hats trimmed with a splendid +lace, and decorated with a large, branching, tricoloured feather. + +After the parade, the following, I understand, is the _étiquette_ +usually observed in the palace. The Chief Consul first gives audience +to the general-officers, next to the field-officers, to those +belonging to the garrison, and to a few petitioners. He then returns +to the fourth apartment, where the counsellors of state assemble. +Being arrived there, notice is sent to the diplomatic corps, who meet +in a room on the ground-floor of the palace, called _La Salle des +Ambassadeurs_. They immediately repair to the levee-room, and, after +paying their personal respects to the First Consul, they each +introduce to him such persons, belonging to their respective nations, +as they may think proper. Several were this day presented by the +Imperial, Russian, and Danish ambassadors: the British minister, Mr. +Jackson, has not yet presented any of his countrymen nor will he, in +all probability, as he is merely a _locum tenens_. After the levee, +the Chief Consul generally gives a dinner of from one hundred and +fifty to two hundred covers, to which all those who have received +arms of honour, are invited. + +Before I left the palace, I observed the lady above-mentioned, who +had presented the memorial, seated in one corner of the room, all in +tears, and betraying every mark of anxious grief: she was pale, and +with her hair dishevelled; but, though by no means handsome, her +distressed situation excited a lively interest in her favour. On +inquiry, I was informed that it was Madame Bourmont, the wife of a +Vendean chief, condemned to perpetual imprisonment for a breach of +the convention into which he had jointly entered with the agents of +the French government. + +Having now accomplished my object, when the crowd was somewhat +dispersed, I retired to enjoy the fine weather by a walk in the + +CHAMPS ELYSÉES. + +After traversing the garden of the _Tuileries_ and the _Place de la +Concorde_, from east to west, you arrive at this fashionable summer +promenade. It is planted with trees in quincunx; and although, in +particular points of view, this gives it a symmetrical air; yet, in +others, the hand of art is sufficiently concealed to deceive the eye +by a representation of the irregular beauties of nature. The French, +in general, admire the plan of the garden of the _Tuileries_, and +think the distribution tasteful; but, when the trees are in leaf, all +prefer the _Champs Elysées_, as being more rural and more inviting. +This spot, which is very extensive, as you may see by the Plan of +Paris, has frequently been chosen for the scene of national fêtes, +for which it is, in many respects, better calculated than the _Champ +de Mars_. However, from its proximity to the great road, the foliage +is imbrowned by the dust, and an idea of aridity intrudes itself on +the imagination from the total absence of water. The sight of that +refreshing element recreates the mind, and communicates a powerful +attraction even to a wilderness. + +In fact, at this season of the year, the _Champs Elysées_ resemble a +desert; but, in summer, they present one of the most agreeable scenes +that can be imagined. In temporary buildings, of a tasteful +construction, you then find here _restaurateurs_, &c, where all sorts +of refreshments may be procured, and rooms where "the merry dance" is +kept up with no common spirit. Swings and roundabouts are also +erected, as well as different machines for exercising the address of +those who are fond of running at a ring, and other sports. Between +the road leading to _l'Étoile_, the _Bois de Boulogne_, &c, and that +which skirts the Seine, formerly called the _Cours de la Reine_, is a +large piece of turf, where, in fine weather, and especially on +Sundays, the Parisian youths amuse themselves at foot-ball, +prison-bars, and long tennis. Here, too, boys and girls assemble, +and improve their growth and vigour by dancing, and a variety of +healthful diversions; while their relations and friends, seated on +the grass, enjoy this interesting sight, and form around each group a +circle which is presently increased by numbers of admiring +spectators. + +Under the shade of the trees, on the right hand, as you face the +west, an immense concourse of both sexes and all ages is at the same +time collected. Those who prefer sitting to walking occupy three long +rows of chairs, set out for hire, three deep on each side, and +forming a lane through which the great body of walkers parade. This +promenade may then be said to deserve the appellation of _Elysian +Fields_, from the number of handsome women who resort hither. The +variety of their dresses and figures, the satisfaction which they +express in seeing and being seen, their anxious desire to please, +which constitutes their happiness and that of our sex, the triumph +which animates the countenance of those who eclipse their rivals; all +this forms a diversified and amusing picture, which fixes attention, +and gives birth to a thousand ideas respecting the art and coquetry +of women, as well as what beauty loses or gains by adopting the +ever-varying caprices of fashion. Here, on a fine summer's evening, +are now to be seen, I am told, females displaying almost as much +luxury of dress as used to be exhibited in the days of the monarchy. +The essential difference is that the road in the centre is not now, +as in those times, covered with brilliant equipages; though every day +seems to produce an augmentation of the number of private carriages. +At the entrance of the _Champs Elysées_ are placed the famous groups +of Numidian horses, held in by their vigorous and masterly conductors, +two _chefs d'oeuvre_ of modern art, copied from the group of +_Monte-Cavallo_ at Rome. By order of the Directory, these statues were +brought from _Marly_, where they ornamented the terrace. They are +each of them cut out of a block of the most faultless Carrara marble. +On the pedestal on which they stood at that once-royal residence, was +engraved the name of COSTOU, 1745, without any Christian name: but, +as there were two brothers of that name, Nicolas and Guillaume, +natives of Lyons, and both excellent sculptors, it is become a matter +of doubt by which of them these master-pieces were executed; though +the one died in 1733, and the other in 1746. It is conjectured, +however, that fraternal friendship induced them to share the fame +arising from these capital productions, and that they worked at them +in common till death left the survivor the task of finishing their +joint labour. + +To whichever of the two the merit of the execution may be due, it is +certain that the fiery, ungovernable spirit of the horses, as well as +the exertion of vigour, and the triumph of strength in their +conductors, is very happily expressed. The subject has frequently +afforded a comparison to politicians. "These statues," say some +observers, "appear to be the emblem of the French people, over whom +it is necessary to keep a tight hand."--"It is to be apprehended," +add others, "that the reins, which the conductors hold with so +powerful an arm, are too weak to check these ungovernable animals." + +[Footnote 1: _De l'Etat de la France, à la fin de l'an VIII._ page +270.] + +[Footnote 2: Ibid. page 274.] + + + +LETTER XXX. + +_Paris, Dccemler 8, 1801_. + +You desire that I will favour you with a particular account of the +means employed to transfer from pannel to canvas those celebrated +pictures which I mentioned in my letter of the 13th ult°. Like many +other, things that appear simple on being known, so is this process; +but it is not, on that account, the less ingenious and difficult in +execution. + +Such is the great disadvantage of the art of painting that, while +other productions of genius may survive the revolution of ages, the +creations of the pencil are intrusted to perishable wood or canvas. +From the effect of heat, humidity, various exhalations to which they +may be carelessly exposed, and even an unperceived neglect in the +priming of the pannel or cloth, master-pieces are in danger of +disappearing for ever. Happy, then, is it for the arts that this +invaluable discovery has been lately brought to so great a degree of +perfection, and that the restoration of several capital pictures +having been confided to men no less skilful than enlightened, they +have thus succeeded in rescuing them from approaching and inevitable +destruction. + +Of all the fruits of the French conquests, not a painting was brought +from Lombardy, Rome, Florence, or Venice, that was not covered with +an accumulation of filth, occasioned by the smoke of the wax-tapers +and incense used in the ceremonies of the catholic religion. It was +therefore necessary to clean and repair them; for to bring them to +France, without rendering them fit to be exhibited, would have +answered no better purpose than to have left them in Italy. One of +those which particularly fixed the attention of the Administration of +the CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS, was the famous picture by RAPHAEL, +taken from the _Chiesa delle Contesse_ at Foligno, and thence +distinguished by the appellation of + +MADONNA DI FOLIGNO. + +This _chef d'oeuvre_ was in such a lamentable state of decay, that +the French commissioners who selected it, wereunder the necessity of +pasting paper over it in order to prevent the scales, which curled up +on many parts of its surface, from falling off during its conveyance +to to Paris. In short, had not the saving hand of art interposed, +this, and other monuments of the transcendent powers of the Italian +school, marked by the corroding tooth of Time, would soon have +entirely perished. + +As this picture could not be exhibited in its injured state, the +Administration of the Museum determined that it should be repaired. +They accordingly requested the Minister of the Interior to cause this +important operation to be attended by Commissioners chosen from the +National Institute. The Class of Physical and Mathematical Sciences +of that learned Society appointed to this task, GUYTON and +BERTHOLLET, chymists, and the Class of Literature and Fine Arts named +VINCENT and TAUNAY, painters. + +These Commissioners, in concert with the Administration, having +ascertained the state of the picture, it was unanimously agreed that +the only mean of saving it would be to remove it from the worm-eaten +pannel on which it was painted. It was, besides, necessary to +ascertain the safety of the process, in order that, without, exciting +the apprehensions of the lovers of the arts, it might be applied to +other pictures which required it. + +The Report of the four Commissioners before named, respecting the +restoration of the _Madonna di Foligno_, has been adopted by the +Classes to which they respectively belong, and is to be made to the +National Institute at their next public sitting on the 15th of Nivose +(5th of January, 1802). + +In order to make you perfectly acquainted with the whole of the +process, I shall transcribe, for your satisfaction, that part of the +Report immediately connected with the art of restoring damaged or +decayed paintings. This labour, and the success by which it was +attended, are really a memorial of what the genius and industry of +the French can achieve. To all those who, like you, possess valuable +collections, such information cannot but be particularly interesting. + +"The desire of repairing the outrages of time has unfortunately +accelerated the decay of several pictures by coarse repainting and +bad varnish, by which much of the original work has been covered. +Other motives, too, have conspired against the purity of the most +beautiful compositions: a prelate has been seen to cause a discordant +head of hair to conceal the charms of a Magdalen." + +"Nevertheless, efficacious means of restoration have been discovered: +a painting, the convass of which is decayed, or the pannel +worm-eaten, is transferred to a fresh cloth; the profane touches +of a foreign pencil are made to disappear; the effaced strokes are +reinserted with scrupulous nicety; and life is restored to a picture +which was disfigured, or drawing near to its end. This art has made +great progress, especially in Paris, and experienced recent +improvement under the superintendance of the Administration of the +Museum; but it is only with a religious respect that any one can +venture on an operation which may always give rise to a fear of some +change in the drawing or colouring, above all when the question is to +restore a picture by RAPHAEL."[1] + +"The restoration may be divided into two parts; the one, which is +composed of mechanical operations, whose object is to detach the +painting from the ground on which it is fixed, in order to transfer +it to a fresh one; the other, which consists in cleaning the surface +of the painting from every thing that can tarnish it, in restoring +the true colour of the picture, and in repairing the parts destroyed, +by tints skilfully blended with the primitive touches. Thence the +distinctive division of the mechanical operations, and of the art of +painting, which will be the object of the two parts of this Report. +The former particularly engaged the attention of the Commissioners of +the _Class of Sciences_; and the latter, which required the habit of +handling a scientific pencil, fell to the share of the Commissioners +of the _Class of Fine Arts_" + +FIRST PART. + +"Although the mechanical labour is subdivided into several +operations, it was wholly intrusted to Citizen HACQUINS, on whose +intelligence, address, and skill, it is our duty to bestow every +commendation." + +"The picture represents the Virgin Mary, the infant Jesus, St. John, +and several other figures of different sizes. It was painted on a +pannel of 1-1/2 inches in thickness: a crack extended from its +circumference to the left foot of the infant Jesus: it was 4-1/2 +lines wide at its upper part, and diminished progressively to the +under: from this crack to the right hand border, the surface formed a +curve whose greatest bend was 2 inches 5-1/2 lines, and from the +crack to the other border, another curve bending 2 inches. The +picture was scaling off in several places, and a great number of +scales had already detached themselves; the painting was, besides, +worm-eaten in many parts." + +"It was first necessary to render the surface even: to effect this, a +gauze was pasted on the painting, and the picture was turned on its +face. After that, Citizen HACQUINS made, in the thickness of the +wood, several grooves at some distance from each other, and extending +from the upper extremity of the bend to the place where the pannel +presented a more level surface. Into these grooves he introduced +little wooden wedges; he then covered the whole surface with wet +cloths, which he took care to remoisten. The action of the wedges, +which swelled by the moisture against the softened pannel, compelled +the latter to resume its primitive form: both edges of the crack +before-mentioned being brought together, the artist had recourse to +glue, in order to unite the two separated parts. During the +desiccation, he laid oak bars across the picture, for the purpose of +keeping the pannel in the form which he wished it to assume." + +"The desiccation being effected slowly, the artist applied a second +gauze on the first, then successively two thicknesses of grey +blotting paper." + +"This preparation (which the French artists call _cartonnage_) being +dry, he laid the picture with its face downward on a table, to which +he carefully confined it; he next proceeded to the separation of the +wood on which the painting was fixed." + +"The first operation was executed by means of two saws, one of which +acted perpendicularly; and the other, horizontally: the work of the +two saws being terminated, the pannel was found to be reduced to the +thickness of 4-1/2 lines. The artist then made use of a plane of a +convex form on its breadth: with this instrument he planed the pannel +in an oblique direction, in order to take off very short shavings, +and to avoid the grain of the wood: by these means he reduced the +pannel to 2/3 of a line in thickness. He then took a flat plane with +a toothed iron, whose effect is much like that of a rasp which +reduces wood into dust: in this manner he contrived to leave the +pannel no thicker than a sheet of paper." + +"In that state, the wood was successively moistened with clear water, +in small compartments, which disposed it to detach itself: then the +artist separated it with the rounded point of a knife-blade." + +"The picture, thus deprived of all the wood, presented to the eye +every symptom of the injury which it had sustained. It had formerly +been repaired; and, in order to fasten again the parts which +threatened to fall off, recourse had been had to oils and varnishes. +But those ingredients passing through the intervals left by such +parts of the picture as were reduced to curling scales, had been +extended in the impression to the paste, on which the painting +rested, and had rendered the real restoration more difficult, without +producing the advantageous effect which had thence been expected." + +"The same process would not serve for separating the parts of the +impression which had been indurated by varnishes, and those where the +paste had remained unmixed: it was necessary to moisten the former +for some time in small compartments: when they were become +sufficiently softened, the artist separated them with the blade of +his knife: the others were more easily separated by moistening them +with a flannel, and rubbing them slightly. It required all the +address and patience of Citizen HACQUINS to leave nothing foreign to +the work of the original painter: at length the outline of RAPHAEL +was wholly exposed to view, and left by itself." + +"In order to restore a little suppleness to the painting, which was +too much dried, it was rubbed all over with carded cotton imbibed +with oil, and wiped with old muslin: then white lead, ground with +oil, was substituted in the room of the impression made by paste, and +fixed by means of a soft brush." + +"After being left to dry for three months, a gauze was glued on the +impression made by oil; and on the latter, a fine canvas." + +"When this canvas was dry, the picture was detached from the table, +and turned, in order to remove the _cartonnage_ from it with water; +this operation being effected, the next proceeding was to get rid of +the appearance of the inequalities of the surface arising from the +curling up of its parts: for that purpose, the artist successively +applied on the inequalities, flour-paste diluted. Then having put a +greasy paper on the moistened part, he laid a hot iron on the parts +curled up, which became level: but it was not till after he had +employed the most unequivocal signs to ascertan the suitable degree +of heat, that he ventured to come near the painting with the iron." + +"It has been seen that the painting, disengaged from its impression +made by paste and from every foreign substance, had been fixed on an +impression made by oil, and that a level form had been given to the +uneven parts of its surface. This master-piece was still to be +solidly applied on a new ground: for that, it was necessary to paste +paper over it again, detach it from the temporary gauze which had +been put on the impression, add a new coat of oxyde of lead and oil, +apply to it a gauze rendered very supple, and on the latter, in like +manner done over with a preparation of lead, a raw cloth, woven all +in one piece, and impregnated, on its exterior surface, with a +resinous substance, which was to confine it to a similar canvass +fixed on the stretching-frame. This last operation required that the +body of the picture, disengaged from its _cartonnage_, or paper +facing, and furnished with a new ground, should be exactly applied to +the cloth done over with resinous substances, at the same time +avoiding every thing that might hurt it by a too strong or unequal +extension, and yet compelling every part of its vast extent to adhere +to the cloth strained on the stretching-frame. It is by all these +proceedings that the picture has been incorporated with a ground more +durable than the original one, and guarded against the accidents +which had produced the injuries. It was then subjected to +restoration, which is the object of the second part of this Report." + +"We have been obliged to confine ourselves to pointing out the +successive operations, the numerous details of which we have +attended; we have endeavoured to give an idea of this interesting +art, by which the productions of the pencil may be indefinitely +perpetuated, in order only to state the grounds of the confidence +that it has appeared to us to merit." + +SECOND PART. + +"After having given an account of the mechanical operations, employed +with so much success in the first part of the restoration of the +picture by RAPHAEL, it remains for us to speak of the second, the +restoration of the painting, termed by the French artists +_restauration pittoresque_. This part is no less interesting than the +former. We are indebted to it for the reparation of the ravages of +time and of the ignorance of men, who, from their unskilfulness, had +still added to the injury which this master-piece had already +suffered. + +"This essential part of the restoration of works of painting, +requires, in those who are charged with it, a very delicate eye, in +order to know how to accord the new tints with the old, a profound +knowledge of the proceedings employed by masters, and a long +experience, in order to foresee, in the choice and use of colours, +what changes time may effect in the new tints, and consequently +prevent the discordance which would be the result of those changes. + +"The art of restoring paintings likewise requires the most scrupulous +nicety to cover no other than the damaged parts, and an extraordinary +address to match the work of the restoration with that of the master, +and, as it were, replace the first priming in all its integrity, +concealing the work to such a degree that even unexperienced eye +cannot distinguish what comes from the hand of the artist from what +belongs to that of the master. + +"It is, above all, in a work of the importance of that of which we +are speaking, that the friends of the arts have a right to require, +in its restoration, all the care of prudence and the exertion of the +first talents. We feel a real satisfaction in acquainting you with +the happy result of the discriminating wisdom of the Administration +of the CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS; who, after having directed and +superintended the first part of the restoration, employed in the +second, that of the painting (which we call _pittoresque_) Citizen +ROESER, whose abilities in this line were long known to them, and +whose repeated success had justified their confidence." + +After having assured the Institute that they consider the +_pittoresque_ part of the restoration of the _Madonna di Foligno_ as +pure as it was possible to be desired, the Commissioners proceed to +call their attention to some discordance in the original design and +colouring of this _chef d'oeuvre_, and to make on it some critical +observations. This they do in order to prevent any doubts which might +arise in the mind of observers, and lead them to imagine that the +restoration had, in any manner, impaired the work of RAPHAEL. + +They next congratulate themselves on having at length seen this +masterpiece of the immortal RAPHAEL restored to life, shining in all +its lustre, and through such means, that there ought no longer to +remain any fear respecting the recurrence of those accidents whose +ravages threatened to snatch it for ever from general admiration. + +They afterwards terminate their Report in the following words: + +"The Administration of the CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS, who have, by +their knowledge, improved the art of restoration, will, no doubt, +neglect nothing to preserve that art in all its integrity; and, +notwithstanding repeated success, they will not permit the +application of it but to pictures so injured, that there are more +advantages in subjecting them to a few risks inseparable from +delicate and numerous operations, than in abandoning them to the +destruction by which they are threatened. The invitation which the +Administration of the Museum gave to the National Institute to attend +the restoration of the _Madonna di Foligno_ by RAPHAEL, is to us a +sure pledge that the enlightened men of whom it is composed felt that +they owed an account of their vigilance to all the connoisseurs in +Europe." + +[Footnote 1: It may not be amiss to observe that RAPHAEL employed the +_impasto_ colour but in few of his pictures, of which the +_Transfiguration_ is one wherein it is the most conspicuous: his +other productions are painted with great transparency, the colours +being laid on a white ground; which rendered still more difficult the +operation above-mentioned. _Note of the Author_.] + + + +LETTER XXXI. + +_Paris, December 10, 1801._ + +"Of all the bridges that were ever built," says Sterne, "the whole +world, who have passed over it, must own that the noblest--the +grandest--the lightest--the longest--the broadest that ever conjoined +land and land together upon the face of the terraqueous globe, is the + +PONT NEUF." + +The _Pont Neuf_ is certainly the largest, and, on account of its +situation[1], the most conspicuous, and most frequented of any of the +bridges in Paris; but, in the environs of the capital, is one which +surpasses them all. This is the _Pont de Neuilly._ + +The first stone of the _Pont Neuf_ was laid by Henry III in 1578, and +the foundation of the piles was begun to be formed on the opposite +side; when the troubles of the League forced DU CERCEAU, the +architect, to withdraw to foreign countries. The work was not resumed +till the reign of Henry IV, who ordered it to be continued under the +direction of MARCHAND; but, owing to various causes, the _Pont Neuf_ +was not finished till 1674. + +The length of this bridge is one thousand and twenty feet, and its +breadth seventy-two; which is sufficient to admit of five carriages +passing abreast. It is formed of twelve arches, seven of which are on +the side of the _Louvre_, and five on the side of the _Quai des +Augustins_, extending over the two channels of the river, which is +wider in this place, from their junction. + +In 1775, the parapets were repaired, and the foot-way lowered and +narrowed. SOUFFLOT, the architect of the Pantheon, availed himself of +this opportunity to build, on the twenty half-moons which stand +immediately above each pile, as many rotundas, in stone, to serve as +shops. On the outside, above the arches, is a double cornice, which +attracts the eye of the connoisseur in architecture, notwithstanding +its mouldering state, on account of the _fleurons_ in the antique +style, and the heads of Sylvans, Dryads, and Satyrs, which serve as +supports to it, at the distance of two feet from each other. + +As the mole that forms a projection on this bridge between the fifth +and seventh arch, stands facing the _Place Dauphine_, which was built +by Henry IV, it was the spot chosen for erecting to him a statue. +This was the first public monument of the kind that had been raised +in honour of French kings. Under the first, second, and third race, +till the reign of Lewis XIII, if the statue of a king was made, it +was only for the purpose, of being placed on his tomb, or else at the +portal of some church, or royal residence which he had either built +or repaired. + +Parisians and strangers used to admire this equestrian statue of +Henry IV, and before the revolution, all agreed in taking him for the +model of goodness. In proof of his popularity, we are told, in the +_Tableau de Paris_, that a beggar was one day following a passenger +along, the foot-way, of the _Pont Neuf_: it was a festival. "In the +name of St. Peter," said the mendicant, "in the name of St. Joseph, +in the name of the Virgin Mary, in the name of her divine Son, in the +name of God?" Being arrived before the statue of the conqueror of the +League, "In the name of _Henri quatre_" exclaimed he, "in the name of +_Henri quatre?_"--"Here!" said the passenger, and he gave him a louis +d'or. + +Unquestionably, no monarch that ever sat on the throne of France was +so popular as _Henri quatre_; and his popularity was never eclipsed +by any of his successors. Even amidst the rage of the revolutionary +storm, the military still held his memory in veneration. On opening +the sepultures at St. Denis in 1793, the coffin of Henry IV was the +first that was taken out of the vault of the Bourbons. Though he died +in 1610, his body was found in such preservation that the features of +his face were not altered. A soldier, who was present at the opening +of the coffin, moved by a martial enthusiasm, threw himself on the +body of this warlike prince, and, after a considerable pause of +admiration, he drew his sabre, and cut off a long lock of Henry's +beard, which was still fresh, at the same time exclaiming, in very +energetic and truly-military terms: "And I too am a French soldier! +In future I will have no other whiskers." Then placing this valuable +lock on his upper lip, he withdrew, adding emphatically: "Now I am +sure to conquer the enemies of France, and I march to victory." + +In Paris, all the statues of kings had fallen, while that of Henry IV +still remained erect. It was for some time a matter of doubt whether +it should be pulled down. "The poem of the _Henriade_ pleaded in its +favour;" but, says Mercier, "he was an ancestor of the perjured +king," Then, and not till then, this venerated statue underwent the +same fate. + +It has been generally believed that the deed of Ravaillac was +dictated by fanaticism, or that he was the instrument employed by the +Marchioness of Verneuil and the Duke of Epernon for assassinating +that monarch. However, it stands recorded, I am told, in a manuscript +found in the National Library, that Ravaillac killed Henry IV because +he had seduced his sister, and abandoned her when pregnant. Thus +time, that affords a clue to most mysteries, has also solved this +historical enigma. + +This statue of Henry IV was erected on the 23d of August, 1624. To +have insulted it, would, not long since, have been considered as a +sacrilege; but, after having been mutilated and trodden under foot, +this once-revered image found its way to the mint or the +cannon-foundry. On its site now stands an elegant coffeehouse, +whence you may enjoy a fine view of the stately buildings which +adorn the quays that skirt the river. + +While admiring the magnificence of this _coup d'oeil_, an Englishman +cannot avoid being struck by the multitude of washerwomen, striving +to expel the dirt from linen, by means of _battoirs_, or wooden +battledores. On each side of the Seine are to be seen some hundreds +hard at work, ranged in succession, along the sides of low barks, +equal in length to our west-country barges. Such is the vigour of +their arm that, for the circumference of half-a-mile, the air +resounds with the noise of their incessant blows. After beating the +linen for some time in this merciless manner, they scrub it with a +hard brush, in lieu of soaping it, so that a shirt which has passed +through their hands five or six times is fit only for making lint. No +wonder then that Frenchmen, in general, wear coarse linen: a hop-sack +could not long resist so severe a process. However, it must be +confessed, that some good arises from this evil. These washerwomen +insensibly contribute to the diffusion of knowledge; for, as they are +continually reducing linen into rags, they cannot but considerably +increase the supply, of that article for the manufacture of paper. + +Compared to the Thames, even above bridge, the Seine is far from +exhibiting a busy scene; a few rafts of wood for fuel, and some +barges occasionally in motion, now and then relieve the monotony of +its rarely-ruffled surface. At this moment, its navigation is impeded +from its stream being swollen by the late heavy rains. Hence much +mischief is apprehended to the country lying contiguous to its banks. +Many parts of Paris are overflowed: in some streets where carriages +must pass, horses are up to their belly in water; while pedestrians +are under the necessity of availing themselves of the temporary +bridges, formed with tressels and planks, by the industrious +Savoyards. The ill consequences of this inundation are already felt, +I assure you; being engaged to dinner yesterday in the _Rue St. +Florentin_, I was obliged to step into a punt in order to reach the +bottom of the stair-case; and what was infinitely more mortifying to +the master of the house, was that, the cellar being rendered +inaccessible,--he was deprived of the satisfaction of regaling his +guests with his best claret. + +On the right hand side of the _Pont Neuf_, in crossing that bridge +from the _Quai de l'École_ to the _Quai de Conti_, is a building, +three stories high, erected on piles, with its front standing between +the first and second arches. It is called + +LA SAMARITAINE. + +Over the dial is a gilt group, representing Jesus Christ and the +Samaritan woman near Jacob's well, pourtrayed by a basin into which +falls a sheet of water issuing from a shell above. Under the basin is +the following inscription: + + _Fons Hortorum + Puteus aquarum viventium._ + +These words of the Gospel are here not unaptly applied to the +destination of this building, which is to furnish water to the garden +of the _Tuileries_, whose basins were not, on that account, the less +dry half the year. The water is raised by means of a pump, and +afterwards distributed, by several conduits, to the _Louvre_ and the +_Palais du Tribunat_, as well as to the _Tuileries_. + +In the middle, and above the arch, is a superstructure of timber-work +faced with gilt lead, where are the bells of the clock and those of +chimes, which ought to play every half-hour. + +This tasteless edifice interrupts the view in every direction and as +it is far from being an ornament to the _Pont Neuf_, no one could now +regret its entire removal. Under the old _régime_, however, it was +nothing less than a government. + +Among the functions of the governor, were included the care of the +clock, which scarcely ever told the hour, and that of the chimes, +which were generally out of order. When these chimes used to delight +Henry IV, it is to be presumed that they were kept in better tune. It +was customary to make them play during all public ceremonies, and +especially when the king passed. + +"The _Pont Neuf_, is in the city of Paris what the heart is in the +human body, the centre of motion and circulation: the flux and reflux +of inhabitants and strangers crowd this passage in such a manner, +that, in order to meet persons one is looking for, it is sufficient +to walk here for an hour every day. Here, the _mouchards_, or spies +of the police, take their station; and, when at the expiration of a +few days, they see not their man, they positively affirm that he is +not in Paris." + +Such was the animated picture of the _Pont Neuf_, as drawn by Mercier +in 1788, and such it really was before the revolution. At present, +though this bridge is sometimes thronged with passengers, it presents +not, according to my observation, that almost continual crowd and +bustle for which it was formerly distinguished. No stoppage now from +the press of carriages of any description, no difficulty in advancing +quickly through the concourse of pedestrians. Fruit-women, hucksters, +hawkers, pedlars, indeed, together with ambulating venders of +lottery-tickets, and of _tisane_, crying "_à la fraiche! Qui veut +boire?_" here take their stand as they used, though not in such +numbers. + +But the most sensible diminution is among the shoe-blacks, who stand +in the carriage-way, and, with all their implements before them, +range themselves along the edge of the very elevated _trottoir_ or +foot-pavement. The _décrotteurs_ of the _Pont Neuf_ were once reputed +masters of the art: their foresight was equal to their dexterity and +expedition. For the very moderate sum of two _liards_, they enabled +an abbé or a poet to present himself in the gilded apartments of a +dutchess. If it rained, or the rays of the sun were uncommonly +ardent, they put into his hand an umbrella to protect the economy of +his head-dress during the operation. Their great patrons have +disappeared, and, in lieu of a constant succession of customers, the +few _décrotteurs_ who remain at their old-established station, are +idle half the day for want of employment. + +These Savoyards generally practise more than one trade, as is +indicated by the _enseigne_ which is affixed, on a short pole, above +their tool-box. + + LA FRANCE tond les + chiens coupe les chats + proprement et sa femme + vat en ville et en campagne + +Change the name only, and such is, line for line, letter for letter, +the most ordinary style of their _annonce_. It is, however, to be +presumed, that the republican belles have adopted other favourites +instead of dogs and cats; for no longer is seen, as in the days of +royalty, the aspiring or favoured lover carrying his mistress's +lap-dog in the public promenades. In fact, the business of +dog-shearing, &c. seems full as dead in this part of Paris as that +of shoe-cleaning. The _artists_ of the _Pont Neuf_ are, consequently, +chop-fallen; and hilarity which formerly shone on their countenance, +is now succeeded by gloomy sadness. + +At the foot of the _Pont Neuf_ on the _Quai de la Féraille_ +recruiting-officers used to unfurl their inviting banners, and +neglect nothing that art and cunning could devise to insnare the +ignorant, the idle, and the unwary. The means which they sometimes +employed were no less whimsical than various: the lover of wine was +invited to a public-house, where he might intoxicate himself; the +glutton was tempted by the sight of ready-dressed turkies, fowls, +sausages &c. suspended to a long pole; and the youth, inclined to +libertinism, was seduced by the meretricious allurements of a +well-tutored doxy. To second these manoeuvres, the recruiter +followed the object of his prey with a bag of money, which he +chinked occasionally, crying out "_Qui en veut?_" and, in this +manner, an army of heroes was completed. It is almost superfluous +to add, that the necessity of such stratagems is obviated, by the +present mode of raising soldiers by conscription. + +Before we quit the _Pont Neuf_, I must relate to you an adventure +which, in the year 1786, happened to our friend P-----, who is now +abroad, in a situation of considerable trust and emolument. He was, +at that time, a half-pay subaltern in the British army, and visited +Paris, as well from motives of economy as from a desire of acquiring +the French language. Being a tall, fresh-coloured young man, as he +was one day crossing the _Pont Neuf_, he caught the eye of a +recruiting-officer, who followed him from the _Quai de la Féraille_ +to a coffee-house, in the _Rue St. Honoré_, which our Englishman +frequented for the sake of reading the London newspapers. The +recruiter, with all the art of a crimp combined with all the +politeness of a courtier, made up to him under pretence of having +relations in England, and endeavoured, by every means in his power, +to insinuate himself into the good graces of his new acquaintance. +P----, by way of sport, encouraged the eagerness of the recruiter, +who lavished on him every sort of civility; peaches in brandy, +together with the choicest refreshments that a Parisian coffee-house +could afford, were offered to him and accepted: but not the smallest +hint was dropped of the motive of all this more than friendly +attention. At length, the recruiter, thinking that he might venture +to break the ice, depicted, in the most glowing colours, the +pleasures and advantages of a military life, and declared ingenuously +that nothing would make him so happy as to have our countryman P---- +for his comrade. Without absolutely accepting or rejecting his offer, +P---- begged a little delay in order to consider of the matter, at +the same time hinting that there was; at that moment, a small obstacle +to his inclination. The recruiter, like a pioneer, promised to remove +it, grasped his hand with joy and exultation, and departed, singing a +song of the same import as that of Serjeant Kite: + + "Come brave boys, 'tis one to ten, + But we return all gentlemen." + +In a few days, the recruiter again met Mr. P---- at his accustomed +rendezvous; when, after treating him with coffee, liqueur, &c. he +came directly to the point, but neglected not to introduce into his +discourse every persuasive allurement. P----, finding himself pushed +home, reminded the recruiter of the obstacle to which he had before +alluded, and, to convince him of its existence, put into his hand His +Britannic Majesty's commission. The astonishment and confusion of the +French recruiter were so great that he was unable to make any reply; +but instantly retired, venting a tremendous ejaculation. + +[Footnote 1: By the Plan of Paris, it will be seen that the _Pont +Neuf_ lies at the west point of the Island called _L'Ile du Palais_, +and is, as it were, in the very centre of the capital.] + + + +LETTER XXXII. + +_Paris, December 13, 1801._ + +In this gay capital, balls succeed to balls in an almost incredible +variety. There are actually an immense number every evening; so that +persons fond of the amusement of dancing have full scope for the +exercise of their talents in Paris. It is no longer a matter of +surprise to me that the French women dance so well, since I find that +they take frequent lessons from their master, and, almost every +night, they are at a dance of one kind or another. Added to this, the +same set of dances lasts the whole season, and go where you will, you +have a repetition of the same. However, this detracts not in the +smallest degree; from the merit of those Parisian belles who shine as +first-rate dancers. The mechanical part of the business, as Mr. +C----g would call it, they may thus, acquire by constant practice; +but the decorative part, if I may so term the fascinating grace which, +they display in all their movements, is that the result of study, or +do they hold it from the bounteous hand of Nature? + +While I am speaking of balls, I must inform you that, since the +private ball of which I gave you so circumstantial an account, I have +been at several others, also private, but of a different complexion; +inasmuch as pleasure, not profit, was the motive for which they were +given, and the company was more select; but, in point of general +arrangement, I found them so like the former, that I did not think it +worth while to make any one of them the subject of a distinct letter. +In this line Madame Recamier takes the lead, but though her balls are +more splendid, those of Madame Soubiran are more agreeable. On the +21st of Frimaire, which was yesterday, I was at a public ball of the +most brilliant kind now known in Paris. It was the first of the +subscription given this season, and, from the name of the apartment +where it is held, it is styled the + +BAL DU SALON DES ÉTRANGERS. + +Midnight is the general hour for the commencement of such diversions; +but, owing to the long train of carriages setting down company at +this ball, it was near two o'clock before I could arrive at the scene +of action, in the _Rue Grange Batelière_, near the Boulevards. + +After I alighted and presented my ticket, some time elapsed before I +could squeeze into the room where the dancing was going forward. The +spectators were here so intermixed with the dancers, that they formed +around them a border as complete as a frame to a picture. It is +astonishing that, under such circumstances, a Parisian Terpsichore, +far from being embarrassed, lays fresh claim to your applause. With +mathematical precision, she measures with her eye the space to which +she is restricted by the curiosity of the by-standers. Rapid as +lightning, she springs forward till the measure recalling her to the +place she left, she traces her orbit, like a planet, at the same time +revolving on her axis. Sometimes her "light, fantastic toe" will +approach within half an inch of your foot; nay, you shall almost feel +her breath on your cheek, and still she will not touch you, except, +perhaps, with the skirt of her floating tunic. + +Among the female part of the company, I observed several lovely +women; some, who might have been taken for Asiatic sultanas, +irradiating the space around them by the dazzling brilliancy of their +ornaments; others, without jewels, but calling in every other aid of +dress for the embellishment of their person; and a few, rich in their +native charms alone, verifying the expression of the poet. Truth +compels me to acknowledge that six or eight English ladies here were +totally eclipsed. For the honour of my country, I could have wished +for a better specimen of our excellence in female beauty. No women in +the world, or at least none that ever I have met with in the +different quarters I have visited, are handsomer than the English, in +point of complexion and features. This is a fact which Frenchmen +themselves admit; but for grace, say they, our countrywomen stand +unrivalled, I am rather inclined to subscribe to this opinion. In a +well-educated French woman, there is an ease, an affability, a desire +to please and be pleased, which not only render her manners +peculiarly engaging, but also influence her gait, her gestures, her +whole deportment in short, and captivate admiration. Her natural +cheerfulness and vivacity spread over her features an animation +seldom to be found in our English fair, whose general characteristics +are reserve and coldness. Hence that striking expression which +exhibits the grace of the French belles to superior advantage. + +Although my memory frequently disappoints me when I wish to retain +names, I have contrived to recollect those of three of the most +remarkable women in the ball-room. I shall therefore commit them to +paper before I forget them. Madame la Princesse de Santa-Croce +displayed more diamonds than any of her competitors; Mademoiselle +Lescot was the best dancer among several ladies renowned for dancing; +and Madame Tallien was, on the whole, the handsomest female that I +saw in the room. There might possibly be women more beautiful than +she at this ball, but they did not come under my observation. + +I had previously seen Madame Tallien at the _Opera Buffa_, and was +struck by her appearance before, I knew who she was. On seeing her +again at the _Salon des Étrangers_, I inquired of a French lady of my +acquaintance, whose understanding and discernment are pre-eminent, if +Madame T------ had nothing to recommend her but her personal +attractions? The lady's answer is too remarkable for me not to repeat +it, which I will do _verbatim_. "In Madame T------," said she, +"beauty, wit, goodness of heart, grace, talents, all are united. In a +gay world, where malice subsists in all its force, her +inconsistencies alone have been talked of, without any mention being +made of the numerous acts of beneficence which have balanced, if they +have not effaced, her weakness. Would you believe," continued she, +"that, in Paris, the grand theatre of misconduct, where moral +obligations are so much disregarded, where we daily commit actions +which we condemn in others; would you believe, that Madame T------ +experiences again and again the mortification of being deprived of +the society of this, or that woman who has nothing to boast of but +her depravity, and cannot plead one act of kindness, or even +indulgence? This picture is very dark," added she, "but the colouring +is true."--"What you tell me," observed I, "proves that, +notwithstanding the irruption of immorality, attributed to the +revolution, it is still necessary for a woman to preserve appearances +at least, in order to be received here in what is termed the best +company."--"Yes, indeed," replied she; "if a woman neglects that main +point in Paris, she will soon find herself lowered in the opinion of +the fashionable world, and be at last excluded from even the +secondary circles. In London, your people of fashion are not quite so +rigid."--"If a husband chooses to wink at his wife's incontinence," +rejoined I, "the world on our side of the water is sufficiently +complaisant to follow his example. Now with you, character is made to +depend more on the observance of etiquette; and, certainly, +hypocrisy, when detected, is of more prejudice to society than +barefaced profligacy."--The lady then resumed thus concerning the +subject of my inquiry. "Were some people to hear me," said she, "they +might think that I had drawn you a flattering portrait of Madame +T------ and say, by way of contrast, when the devil became old, he +turned hermit; but I should answer that, for some years, no +twenty-four hours have elapsed without persons, whom I could name on +occasion, having begun their daily career by going to see her, who +saved their life, when, to accomplish that object, she hazarded her +own." + +Here then is an additional instance of the noble energy manifested by +women during the most calamitous periods of the revolution. +Unappalled by the terrors of captivity or of death, their sensibility +impelled them to brave the ferocity of sanguinary tyrants, in order +to administer hope or comfort to a parent, a husband, a relation, or +a friend. Some of these heroines, though in the bloom of youth, not +content with sympathizing in the misfortunes of others, gave +themselves up as a voluntary sacrifice, rather than survive those +whose preservation they valued more than their own existence. Rome +may vaunt her Porcia, or her Cornelia; but the page of her history +can produce no such exaltation of the female character as has been +exhibited within the last ten years by French women. Examples, like +these, of generosity, fortitude, and greatness of soul, deserve to be +recorded to the end of time, as they do honour to the sex, and to +human nature. + +If, according to the scale of Parisian enjoyment, a ball or rout is +dull and insipid, _à moins qu'on ne manque d'y être étouffé_, how +supreme must have been the satisfaction of the company at the _Salon +des Étrangers!_ The number present, estimated at seven or eight +hundred, occasioned so great a crowd that it was by no means an easy +enterprise to pass from one room to another. Of course, there was no +opportunity of viewing the apartments to advantage; however, I saw +enough of them to remark that they formed a suite elegantly +decorated. Some persons amused themselves with cards, though the +great majority neither played nor danced, but were occupied in +conversing with their acquaintance, There was no regular supper, but +substantial refreshments of every kind were to be procured on paying; +and other smaller ones, _gratis_. + +From the tickets not being transferable, and the bearer's name being +inserted in each of them, the company was far more select than it +could have been without such a restriction. Most of the foreign +ambassadors, envoys, &c. were present, and many of the most +distinguished persons of both sexes in Paris. More regard was paid to +the etiquette of dress at this ball than, I have ever witnessed here +on similar occasions, The ladies, as I have before said, were all _en +grande toilette_; and the men with cocked hats, and in shoes and +stockings, which is a novelty here, I assure you, as they mostly +appear in boots. But what surprised me not a little, was to observe +several inconsiderate French youths wear black cockades. Should they +persist in such an absurdity, I shall be still more surprised, if +they escape admonition from the police. This fashion seemed to be the +_ignis fatuus_ of the moment; it was never before exhibited in +public, and probably will be but of ephemeral duration. + +I cannot take leave of this ball without communicating to you a +circumstance which occurred there, and which, from the extravagant +credulity it exhibits in regard to the effects of sympathy, may +possibly amuse you for a moment. + +A widow, about twenty years of age, more to be admired for the +symmetry of her person, than for the beauty of her features, had, +according to the prevailing custom, intrusted her pocket-handkerchief +to the care of a male friend, a gentlemanlike young Frenchman of my +acquaintance. After dancing, the lady finding herself rather warm, +applied for her handkerchief, with which she wiped her forehead, and +returned it to the gentleman, who again put it into his pocket. He +then danced, but not with her; and, being also heated, he, by +mistake, took out the lady's handkerchief, which, when applied to his +face, produced, as he fancied, such an effect on him, that, though he +had previously regarded her with a sort of indifference, from that +moment she engaged all his attention, and he was unable to direct his +eyes, or even his thoughts, to any other object. + +Some philosophers, as is well known, have maintained that from all +bodies there is an emanation of corpuscles, which, coming into +contact with our organs, make on the brain an impression, either more +or less sympathetic, or of a directly-opposite nature. They tell you, +for instance, that of two women whom you behold for the first time, +the one the least handsome will sometimes please you most, because +there exists a greater _sympathy_ between you and her, than between +you and the more beautiful woman. Without attempting to refute this +absurd doctrine of corpuscles, I shall only observe that this young +Frenchman is completely smitten, and declares that no woman in the +world can be compared to the widow. + +This circumstance reminds me of a still more remarkable effect, +ascribed to a similar cause, experienced by Henry III of France. The +marriage of the king of Navarre, afterwards Henry IV, with Marguerite +de Valois, and that of the Prince de Condé with Marie de Cleves, was +celebrated at the Louvre on the 10th of August, 1572. Marie de +Cleves, then a most lovely creature only sixteen, after dancing much, +finding herself incommoded by the heat of the ball-room, retired to a +private apartment, where one of the waiting-women of the +queen-dowager, seeing her in a profuse perspiration, persuaded her +to make an entire change of dress. She had scarcely left the room +when the Duke of Anjou, afterwards Henry III, who had also danced a +great deal, entered it to adjust his hair, and, being overheated, +wiped his face with the first thing that he found, which happened +to be the shift she had just taken off. Returning to the ball, he +fixed his eyes on her, and contemplated her with as much surprise +as if he had never before beheld her. His emotion, his transports, +and the attention which he began to pay her, were the more +extraordinary, as during the preceding week, which she had passed +at court, he appeared indifferent to those very charms which now +made on his heart an impression so warm and so lasting. In short, +he became insensible to every thing that did not relate to his +passion. + +His election to the crown of Poland, say historians, far from +flattering him, appeared to him an exile, and when he was in that +kingdom, absence, far from diminishing his love, seemed to increase +it. Whenever he addressed the princess, he pricked his finger, and +never wrote to her but with his blood. No sooner was he informed of +the death of Charles IX, than he dispatched a courier to assure her +that she should soon be queen of France; and, on his return, his +thoughts were solely bent on dissolving her marriage with the Prince +de Condé, which, on account of the latter being a protestant, he +expected to accomplish. But this determination proved fatal to the +princess; for, shortly after, she was attacked by a violent illness, +attributed to poison, which carried her off in the flower of her age. + +No words can paint Henry's despair at this event: he passed several +days in tears and groans; and when he was at length obliged to shew +himself in public, he appeared in deep mourning, and entirely covered +with emblems of death, even to his very shoe-strings. + +The Princess de Condé had been dead upwards of four months, and +buried in the abbey-church of _St. Germain-des-Prés_, when Henry, on +entering the abbey, whither he was invited to a grand entertainment +given there by Cardinal de Bourbon, felt such violent tremblings at +his heart, that not being able to endure their continuance, he was +going away; but they ceased all at once, on the body of the princess +being removed from its tomb, and conveyed elsewhere for that evening. + +His mother, Catherine de Medicis, by prevailing on him to marry +Louise de Vaudemont, one of the most beautiful women in Europe, hoped +that she would make him forget her whom death had snatched from him, +and he himself perhaps indulged a similar hope, but the memoirs of +those times concur in asserting that the image of the Princess de +Condé was never effaced from his heart, and that, to the day of his +assassination, which did not happen till seventeen years after, +whatever efforts he made to subdue his passion, were wholly +unavailing. + +Sympathy is a sentiment to which few persons attach the same ideas. +It may be classed in three distinct species. The first seems to have +an immediate connexion with the senses; the second, with the heart; +and the third, with the mind. Although it cannot be denied that the +preference we bestow on this or that woman is the result of the one +or the other of these, or even of all three together; yet the +analysis of our attachments is, in some cases, so difficult as to +defy the investigation of reason. For, as the old song says, some +lovers + + Will "whimper and whine + For lilies and roses, + For eyes, lips, and noses, + Or a _tip of an ear_." + +To cut the matter short, I think it fully proved, by the example of +some of the wisest men, that the affections are often captivated by +something indefinable, or, in the words of Corneille, + + _"Par un je ne sais quoi--qu'on ne peut exprimer."_ + + + +LETTER XXXIII. + +_Paris, December 14, 1801._ + +I have already spoken to you of the _Pont Neuf_. To the east of it, +as you will see by the Plan of Paris, the small islands in the middle +of the Seine are connected to its banks by several bridges; while to +the west, there are two only, though a third is projected, and, +previously to the late rise of the river, workmen were employed in +driving piles for the foundation. I shall now describe to you these +two bridges, beginning with the + +PONT NATIONAL. + +Before the revolution, this bridge bore the appellation of _Pont +Royal_, from its having been built by Lewis XIV, and the expenses +defrayed but of his privy purse, to supply the place of one of wood, +situated opposite to the _Louvre_, which was carried away by the ice +in 1684. It is reckoned one of the most solid bridges in Paris, and, +till the existence of the _Pont de la Concorde_, was the only one +built across the river, without taking advantage of the islands +above-mentioned. It stands on four piles, forming with the two +abutments five elliptical arches of a handsome sweep. The span of the +centre arch is seventy-two feet, that of the two adjoining sixty-six, +and that of the two outer ones sixty. On each side is a raised +pavement for foot-passengers, in the middle of which I should imagine +that there is breadth sufficient to admit of four carriages passing +abreast. + +GABRIEL had undertaken this bridge from the designs of MANSARD. The +work was already in a state of forwardness, when, at a pile on the +side of the _Faubourg St. Germain_, the former could not succeed in +excluding the water. A Jacobin, not a clubist, but a Jacobin friar, +one FRANÇOIS ROMAIN, who had just finished the bridge of Strasburg, +was sent for by the king to the assistance of the French architects, +and had the honour of completing the rest of the work. + +In the time of Henry IV, there was no bridge over this part of the +river, which he used frequently to cross in the first boat that +presented itself. Returning one day from the chace, in a plain +hunting dress, and having with him only two or three gentlemen, he +stepped into a skiff to be carried over from the _Faubourg St. +Germain_ to the _Tuileries_. Perceiving that he was not known by the +waterman, he asked him what people said of the peace, meaning the +peace of Vervins, which was just concluded. "Faith! I don't +understand this sort of peace," answered the waterman; "there are +taxes on every thing, and even, on this miserable boat, with which I +have a hard matter to earn my bread."--"And does not the king," +continued Henry, "intend to lighten these taxes?"--"The king is a +good kind of man enough," replied the waterman; "but he has a lady +who must needs have so many fine gowns and gewgaws; and 'tis we who +pay for all that. One would not think so much of it either, if she +kept to him only; but, they say, she suffers herself to be kissed by +many others." + +Henry IV was so amused by this conversation, that, the next morning, +he sent for the waterman, and made him repeat, word for word, before +the Dutchess of Beaufort, all that he had said the preceding evening. +The Dutchess, much irritated, was for having him hanged. "You are a +foolish woman," said Henry; "this is a poor devil whom poverty has +put out of humour. In future, he shall pay no tax for his boat, and I +am convinced that he will then sing every day, _Vive Henri! Vive +Gabrielle!_" + +The north end of the _Pont National_ faces the wing of the palace of +the _Tuileries_ distinguished by the name of the _Pavillon de Flore_. +From the middle of this bridge, you see the city in a striking point +of view. Here, the celebrated Marshal de Catinat used frequently to +make it part of his morning's amusement to take his stand, and, while +he enjoyed the beauty of the prospect, he opened his purse to the +indigent as they passed. That philosophic warrior often declared that +he never beheld any thing equal to the _coup d'oeil_ from this +station. In fact, on the one side, you discover the superb gallery of +the _Louvre_, extending from that palace to the _Tuileries_; and, on +the other, the _Palais du Corps Législatif_, and a long range of +other magnificent buildings, skirting the quays on each bank of the +river. + +These quays, nearly to the number of thirty, are faced with stone, +and crowned with parapets breast high, which, in eighteen or twenty +different spots, open to form watering-places. The Seine, being thus +confined within its bed, the eye is never displeased here by the +sight of muddy banks like those of the Thames, or the nose offended +by the smell arising from the filth which the common sewers convey to +the river. + +The galiot of _St. Cloud_ regularly takes its departure from the +_Pont National_. Formerly, on Sundays and holidays, it used to be a +very entertaining sight to contemplate the Paris cocknies crowding +into this vessel. Those who arrived too late, jumped into the first +empty boat, which frequently overset, either through the +unskilfulness of the waterman, or from being overloaded. In +consequence of such accidents, the boats of the Seine are prohibited +from taking more than sixteen passengers. + +Not many years ago, an excursion to _St. Cloud_ by water, was an +important voyage to some of the Parisians, as you may see by +referring to the picture which has been drawn of it, under the title +of "_Voyage de Paris à Saint Cloud par mer, et le retour de Saint +Cloud à Paris par terre_." + +Following the banks of the Seine, towards the west, we next come to +the + +PONT DE LA CONCORDE. + +This bridge, which had long been wished for and projected, was begun +in 1787, and finished in 1790. Its southern extremity stands opposite +to the _Palais du Corps Législatif_; while that of the north faces +the _Place de la Concorde_, whence it not only derives its present +appellation, but has always experienced every change of name to which +the former has been subject. + +The lightness of its apearance is less striking to those who have +seen the _Pont de Neuilly_, in which PERRONET, Engineer of bridges +and highways, has, by the construction of arches nearly flat, so +eminently distinguished himself. He is likewise the architect of this +bridge, which is four hundred and sixty-two feet in length by +forty-eight in breadth. Like the _Pont National_, it consists of +five elliptical arches. The span of the centre arch is ninety-six +feet; that of the collateral ones, eighty-seven; and that of the +two others near the abutments, sixty-eight. Under one of the latter +is a tracking-path for the facility of navigation. + +The piles, which are each nine feet in thickness, have, on their +starlings, a species of pillars that support a cornice five feet and +a half high. Perpendicularly to these pillars are to rise as many +pyramids, which are to be crowned by a parapet with a balustrade: in +all these, it is intended to display no less elegance of workmanship +than the arches present boldness of design and correctness of +execution. + +On crossing these bridges, it has often occurred to me, how much the +Parisians must envy us the situation of our metropolis. If the Seine, +like the Thames, presented the advantage of braving the moderate +winds, and of conveying, by regular tides, the productions of the +four quarters of the globe to the quays which skirt its banks, what +an acquisition would it not be to their puny commerce! What a +gratification to their pride to see ships discharging their rich +cargoes at the foot of the _Pont de la Concorde_! The project of the +canal of Languedoc must, at first, have apparently presented greater +obstacles; yet, by talents and perseverance, these were overcome at a +time when the science of machinery of every description was far less +understood than it is at the present moment. + +It appears from the account of Abbon, a monk of the abbey of St. +Germain-des-Prés, that, in the year 885, the Swedes, Danes, and +Normans, to the number of forty-five thousand men, came to lay siege +to Paris, with seven hundred sail of ships, exclusively of the +smaller craft, so that, according to this historian, who was an +eye-witness of the fact, the river Seine was covered with their +vessels for the space of two leagues. + +Julius Cæsar tells us, in the third book of his Commentaries, that, +at the time of his conquest of the Gauls, in the course of one +winter, he constructed six hundred vessels of the wood which then +grew in the environs of Paris; and that, in the following spring, he +embarked his army, horse and foot, provisions and baggage, in these +vessels, descended the Seine, reached Dieppe, and thence crossed over +to England, of which, he says, he made a conquest. + +About forty years ago, the scheme engaged much attention. In 1759, +the Academy of Sciences, Belles-Lettres, and Arts of Rouen, proposed +the following as a prize-question: "Was not the Seine formerly +navigable for vessels of greater burden than those which are now +employed on it; and are there not means to restore to it, or to +procure it, that advantage?" In 1760, the prize was adjourned; the +memoirs presented not being to the satisfaction of the Academy. In +1761, the new candidates having no better success, the subject was +changed. + +However, notwithstanding this discouragement, we find that, on the +1st of August, 1766, Captain Berthelot actually reached the _Pont +Royal_ in a vessel of one hundred and sixty tons burden. When, on the +22d of the same month, he departed thence, loaded with merchandise, +the depth of the water in the Seine was twenty-five feet, and it was +nearly the same when he ascended the river. This vessel was seven +days on her passage from Rouen to Paris: but a year or two ago, four +days only were employed in performing the same voyage by another +vessel, named the _Saumon_. + +Engineers have ever judged the scheme practicable, and the estimate +of the necessary works, signed by several skilful surveyors, was +submitted to the ministry of that day. The amount was forty-six +millions of livres (circa £1,916,600 sterling). + +But what can compensate for the absence of the tide? This is an +advantage, which, in a commercial point of view, must ever insure to +London a decided superiority over Paris. Were the Seine to-morrow +rendered navigable for vessels of large burden, they must, for a +considerable distance, be tracked against the stream, or wait till a +succession of favourable winds had enabled them to stem it through +its various windings; whereas nothing can be more favourable to +navigation than the position of London. It has every advantage of a +sea-port without its dangers. Had it been placed lower down, that is, +nearer to the mouth of the Thames, it would have been more exposed to +the insults of a foreign enemy, and also to the insalubrious +exhalations of the swampy marshes. Had it been situated higher up the +river, it would have been inaccessible to ships of large burden. + +Thus, by no effort of human invention or industry can Paris rival +London in commerce, even on the supposition that France could produce +as many men possessed of the capital and spirit of enterprise, for +which our British merchants are at present unrivalled. + +Yet, may not this pre-eminence in commercial prosperity lead to our +destruction, as the gigantic conquests of France may also pave the +way to her ruin? Alas! the experience of ages proves this melancholy +truth, which has also been repeated by Raynal: "Commerce," says that +celebrated writer, "in the end finds its ruin in the riches which it +accumulates, as every powerful state lays the foundation of its own +destruction in extending its conquests." + + + +LETTER XXXIV. + +_Paris, December 16, 1801._ + +No part of the engagement into which I have entered with you, so +fully convinces me of my want of reflection, and shews that my zeal, +at the time, got the better of my judgment, as my promising you some +ideas on + +FRENCH LITERATURE. + +It would, I now perceive, be necessary to have inhabited France for +several years past, with the determined intention of observing this +great empire solely in that single point of view, to be able to keep +my word in a manner worthy of you and of the subject. It would be +necessary to write a large volume of rational things; and, in a +letter, I ought to relate them with conciseness and truth; draw +sketches with rapidity, but clearness; in short, express positive +results, without deviating from abstractions and generalities, since +you require from me, on this subject, no more than a letter, and not +a book. + +I come to the point. I shall consider literature in a double sense. +First, the thing in itself; then, its connexions with the sciences, +and the men who govern. In England, it has been thought, or at least +insinuated in some of the papers and periodical publications, that +literature had been totally annihilated in France within the last +twelve years. This is a mistake: its aberrations have been taken for +eclipses. It has followed the revolution through all its phases. + +Under the Constituent Assembly, the literary genius of the French was +turned towards politics and eloquence. There remain valuable +monuments of the fleeting existence of that assembly. MIRABEAU, +BARNAVE, CAZALÈS, MAURY, and thirty other capital writers, attest +this truth. Nothing fell from their lips or their pen that did not +hear at the same time the stamp of philosophy and literature. + +Under the Legislative Assembly and the Convention, the establishments +of the empire of letters were little respected. Literati themselves +became victims of the political collisions of their country; but +literature was constantly cultivated under several forms. Those who +shewed themselves its oppressors, were obliged to assume the refined +language which it alone can supply, and that, at the very time when +they declared war against it. + +Under the Directorial government, France, overwhelmed by the weight +of her long misfortunes, first cast her eye on the construction of a +new edifice, dedicated to human knowledge in general, under the name +of _National Institute_. Literature there collected its remains, and +those who cultivate it, as members of this establishment, are not +unworthy of their office. Such as are not admitted into this society, +notwithstanding all the claims the most generally acknowledged, owe +this omission to moral or political causes only, on which I could not +touch, without occupying myself about persons rather than the thing +itself. + +The French revolution, which has levelled so many gigantic fortunes, +is said (by its advocates) to have really spread a degree of comfort +among the inferior classes. Indeed, if there are in France, as may be +supposed, much fewer persons rolling in riches, there are, I am +informed, much fewer pining in indigence. This observation, admitting +it to be strictly true, may, with great propriety, be applied to +French literature. France no longer has a VOLTAIRE or a ROUSSEAU, to +wield the sceptre of the literary world; but she has a number of +literary degrees of public interest or simple amusement, which are +perfectly well filled. Few literati are without employ, and still +fewer are beneath their functions. The place of member of the +Institute is a real public function remunerated by the State. It is +to this cause, and to a few others, which will occur to you +beforehand, that we must attribute the character of gravity which +literature begins to assume in this country. The prudery of the +school of DORAT would here be hissed. Here, people will not quarrel +with the Graces; but they will no longer make any sacrifice to them +at the expense of common sense. + +In this literary republic still exist, as you may well conceive, the +same passions, the same littleness, the same intrigues as formerly +for arriving at celebrity, and keeping in that envied sphere; but all +this makes much less noise at the present juncture. It is this which +has induced the belief that literature had diminished its intensity, +both in form and object: that is another mistake. The French literati +are mostly a noisy class, who love to make themselves conspicuous, +even by the clashing of their pretensions; but, to the great regret +of several among them, people in this country now attach a rational +importance only to their quarrels, which formerly attracted universal +attention. The revolution has been so great an event; it has +overthrown such great interests; that no one here can any longer +flatter himself with exciting a personal interest, except by +performing the greatest actions. + +I must also make a decisive confession on this matter, and +acknowledge that literature, which formerly held the first degree in +the scale of the moral riches of this nation, is likely to decline in +priority and influence. The sciences have claimed and obtained in the +public mind a superiority resulting from the very nature of their +object; I mean utility. The title of _savant_ is not more brilliant +than formerly; but it is more imposing; it leads to consequence, to +superior employments, and, above all, to riches. The sciences have +done so much for this people during their revolution, that, whether +through instinct, or premeditated gratitude, they have declared their +partiality towards the _savans_, or men of science, to the detriment +of the mere literati. The sciences are nearly allied both to pride +and national interest; while literature concerns only the vanity and +interest of a few individuals. This difference must have been felt, +and of itself alone have fixed the esteem of the public, and +graduated their suffrages according to the merit of the objects. +Regard being had to their specific importance, I foresee that this +natural classification will be attended with happy consequences, both +for sciences and literature. + +I have been enabled to observe that very few men of science are +unacquainted with the literature of their country, whether for +seeking in it pleasing relaxation, or for borrowing from it a magic +style, a fluent elocution, a harmony, a pomp of expression, with +which the most abstract meditations can no longer dispense to be +received favourably by philosophers and men of taste. Very few +literati, on the other hand, are unacquainted with philosophy and the +sciences, and, above all, with natural knowledge; whether not to be +too much in arrear with the age in which they live, and which +evidently inclines to the study of Nature, or to give more colour and +consistence to their thoughts, by multiplying their degrees of +comparison with the eternal type of all that is great and fertile. + +It has been so often repeated that HOMER, OSSIAN, and MILTON, knew +every thing known in their times; that they were at once the greatest +natural philosophers and the best moralists of their age, that this +truth has made an impression on most of the adepts in literature; and +as the impulse is given, and the education of the present day by the +retrenchment of several unnecessary pursuits, has left, in the mind +of the rising generation, vacancies fit to be filled by a great +variety of useful acquirements, it appears to me demonstrated, on +following analogy, and the gradations of human improvement, that the +sciences, philosophy, and literature will some day have in France but +one common domain, as they there have at present, with the arts, only +one central point of junction. + +The French government has flattered the literati and artists, by +calling them in great numbers round it and its ministers, either to +give their advice in matters of taste, or to serve as a decoration to +its power, and an additional lustre to the crown of glory with which +it is endeavouring to encircle itself; but, in general, the palpable, +substantial, and solid distinctions have been reserved for men of +science, chymists, naturalists, and mathematicians: they have seats +in the Senate, in the Tribunate, in the Council of State, and in all +the Administrations; while LAHARPE, the veteran of French literature, +is not even a member of the Institute, and is reduced to give +lessons, which are, undoubtedly, not only very interesting to the +public, but also very profitable to himself, and produce him as much +money, at least, as his knowledge has acquired him reputation. + +It results from what I have said, that French literature has not +experienced any apparent injury from the revolutionary storm: it has +only changed its direction and means: it has still remaining talents +which have served their time, talents in their maturity, and talents +in a state of probation, and of much promise. + +Persons of reflection entertain great hopes from the violent shock +given to men's minds by the revolution; from that silent inquietude +still working in their hearts; from that sap, full of life, +circulating with rapidity through this body politic. "The factions +are muzzled," say they; "but the factious spirit still ferments under +the curb of power; if means can be found to force it to evaporate on +objects which belong to the domain of illusion and sensibility, the +result will prove a great blessing to France, by carrying back to the +arts and to literature, and even to commerce, that exuberance of heat +and activity which can no longer be employed without danger on +political subjects." + +The same men, whom I have just pointed out, affirm that England +herself will feel, in her literary and scientific system, a salutary +concussion from the direction given here to the public mind. They +expect with impatience that the British government will engage in +some great measure of public utility, in order that the rivalship +subsisting between the two nations on political and military points, +which have no longer any object, may soon become, in France, the most +active and most powerful vehicle for different parts of her interior +improvement. + +Of all kinds of literature, _Epic Poetry_ is the only one in which +France has not obtained such success as to place her on a level with +TASSO and MILTON. To make amends, her poets have followed with +advantage the steps of ARIOSTO, without being able to surpass him. +From this school have issued two modern epic poems: _La guerre des +dieux payens contre les dieux chretiens_, by PARNY and _La conquête +de Naples_, by GUDIN. The former is distinguished by an easy +versification, and an imagination jocose and fertile, though, +certainly, far too licentious. Educated in the school of DORAT, he +possesses his redundance and grace, without his fatuity. His elegies +are worthy of TIBULLUS; and his fugitive pieces are at once dictated +by wit and sentiment: thus it was that CHAULIEU wrote, but with more +negligence. The latter has thought to compensate for the energy and +grace that should give life to his subject (which he considers only +in a playful and satirical light), by a truly tiresome multitude of +incidents. Conceive three huge volumes in octavo, for a poem which +required but one of a moderate size, and, in them, a versification +frequently negligent. These are two serious faults, which the French +will not readily overlook. No where are critics more severe, on the +one hand, against redundance that is steril, and on the other, +respecting the essential composition of verse, which ought always to +flow with grace, even when under restraint. Catholicism, however, has +no more reason to be pleased with the loose scenes presented in this +work, than christianity, in general, has with the licentious pictures +of PARNY; but GUDIN is far less dangerous to Rome, because he will be +less read. + +Several authors have devoted their labours to _Tragedy_, during the +course of the revolution. CHÉNIER has produced a whole theatre, which +will remain to posterity, notwithstanding his faults, as he has +contrived to cover them with beauties. ARNAULT and MERCIER of +Compiegne are two young authors that seem to have been educated in +the school of DUCIS, who is at this day the father of all the present +tragic writers. The pieces which they have produced have met with +some success, and are of considerable promise. + +_Comedy_ lost a vigorous supporter under the tyranny of ROBESPIERRE. +This was FABRE D'EGLANTINE. That poet seldom failed of success, drew +none but bold characters, and placed himself, by his own merit, +between MOLIÈRE and DESTOUCHES. COLIN D'HARLEVILLE and LEGOUVÉ +produce agreeable pieces which succeed. They paint, with an easy and +graceful pencil, the absurdities and humours of society; but their +pieces are deficient in plot and action. FABRÉ D'EGLANTINE +pourtrayed, in striking colours, those frightful vices which are +beyond the reach of the law. His pieces are strongly woven and easily +unravelled. PICARD seems to have taken GOLDONI, the celebrated +Venetian comic writer, for his model. Like him, an excellent painter, +a writer by impulse, he produces, with wonderful fecundity, a number +of interesting comedies, which make the audience laugh till they shed +tears, and how and then give great lessons. PALISSOT, CAILHAVA, and +MERCIER are still living; but no longer produce any thing striking. + +I shall say little of French eloquence. Under the new form of +government, orators have less opportunity and less scope for +displaying transscendant talents than during the first years of the +revolution. Two members of the government, CAMBACÉRÈS and LEBRUN, +have distinguished themselves in this career by close, logical +argument, bright conceptions, and discriminating genius. BENJAMIN +CONSTANT and GUINGUÉNÉ, members of the Tribunate, shewed themselves +to advantage last year, as I understand, in some productions full of +energy and wisdom. DEMEUNIER and BOISSI D'ANGLAS are already, in the +Tribunate, veterans of eloquence; but the man who unites, in this +respect, all the approbation of that body, and even of France, is +DAUNOU. In exterior means he is deficient; but his thoughts proceed +at once from a warm heart and an open mind, guided by a superior +genius; and his expressions manifest the source from which they flow. + +Several capital works of the historic kind have made their appearance +in France within the last ten years; but, with the exception of those +of celebrated voyagers or travellers, such as LA PÉROUSE, BAUDIN, +SONNINI, LABILLARDIÈRE, OLIVIER, ANDRÉ MICHAUD, &c. those whose +object has been to treat of the arts, sciences, and manners of +Greece, such as the travels of Anacharsis, of Pythagoras, or of +Antenor; those whose subject has not been confined to France, such as +the _Précis de l'histoire générale_, by ANQUETIL; people ought to be +on their guard against the merit even of productions written +mediately or immediately on the revolution, its causes, and +consequences. The passions are not yet sufficiently calmed for us not +to suspect the spirit of party to interpose itself between men and +truth. The most splendid talents are frequently in this line only the +most faithless guide. It is affirmed, however, that there are a few +works which recommend themselves, by the most philosophic +impartiality; but none of these have as yet fallen under my +observation. A striking production is expected from the pen of the +celebrated VOLNEY. This is a _Tableau Physique des États Unis_; but +it is with regret I hear that its appearance is delayed by the +author's indisposition. + +_Novels_ are born and die here, as among us, with astonishing +abundance. The rage for evocations and magic spectres begins to +diminish. The French assert that they have borrowed it from us, and +from the school of MRS. RADCLIFF, &c. &c. They also assert, that the +policy of the royalist-party was not unconnected with this +propagation of cavernous, cadaverous adventures, ideas, and +illusions, intended, they say, by the impression of a new moral +terror to infatuate their countrymen again with the dull and +soporific prestiges of popery. They see with joy that the taste for +pleasure has assumed the ascendency, at least in Paris, and that +novels in the English style no longer make any one tremble, at night +by the fireside, but the old beldams of the provincial departments. + +The less important kinds of literature, such as the _Apologue_ or +_Moral Fable_, which is not at this day much in fashion; the +_Eclogue_ or _Idyl_, whose culture particularly belongs to agrestical +and picturesque regions; _Political Satire_, which is never more +refined than under the influence of arbitrary power; these kinds, to +which I might add the _Madrigal_ and _Epigram_, without being +altogether abandoned, are not generally enough cultivated here to +obtain special mention. I shall make an exception only in favour of +the pastoral poems of LECLERC (of Marne and Loire) of which I have +heard a very favourable account. + +At the end of a revolution which has had periods so ensanguined, +_Romance_, (romantic poetry) must have been cultivated and held in +request. It has been so, especially by sentimental minds, and not a +little too through the spirit of party; this was likely to be the +case, since its most affecting characteristic is to mourn over tombs. + +_Lyric poetry_ has been carried by LEBRUN, CHÉNIER, &c. to a height +worthy of JEAN BAPTISTE ROUSSEAU. The former, above all, will stand +his ground, by his weight, to the latest posterity; while hitherto +the lyric productions of CHÉNIER have not been able to dispense with +the charm of musical harmony. FONTANES, CUBIÈRES, PONS DE VERDUN, +BAOUR-LORNIAN, and DESPAZE are secondary geniuses, who do not make us +forget that DELISLE and the Chevalier BERTIN are still living; but +whose fugitive pieces sometimes display many charms. + +When you shall be made acquainted that Paris, of all the cities in +the world, is that where the rage for dancing is the most +_nationalized_, where, from the gilded apartments of the most +fashionable quarters to the smoky chambers of the most obscure +suburbs, there are executed more capers in cadence, than in any other +place on earth, you will not be surprised if I reserve a special +article for one of the kinds of literature that bears the most +affinity to this distinctive diversion of the Parisian belles, which +has led MERCIER to say, that their city was the _guingette_ of +Europe; I mean _Song_. Perhaps, a subject new and curious to treat +on, would be the influence of vocal music on the French revolution. +Every one knows that this people marched to battle singing; but, +independently of the subject being above my abilities, it would carry +me too far beyond the limited plan which I have prescribed to myself. + +Let it suffice for you to know, that there has existed in Paris a +sort of lyric manufactory, which, under the name of "_Diners du +vaudeville_" scrupulously performed, for several years, an engagement +to furnish, every month, a collection of songs very agreeable and +very captivating. These productions are pretty often full of +allusions, more or less veiled, to the political events of the +moment; seldom, however, have they been handled as very offensive +weapons against persons or institutions. The friends of mirth and +wine are seldom dark and dangerous politicians. This country +possesses a great number of them, who combine the talents required by +the gravest magistracy with all the levity of the most witty and most +cheerful _bon vivant_. I shall quote at random FRANÇOIS DE +NEUFCHÂTEAU, the two SÉGURS, PIIS, &c. &c. Others, such as BARRÉ, +DESFONTAINES, and RADET, confine themselves to their exclusive +functions of professed song-makers, and write only for the little +musical theatres, or for the leisure of their countrymen and their +evening-amusements. + +It is impossible to terminate a sketch of the literature of France, +without saying a word of such of the _Journals_ as I have yet +perused, which are specially devoted to it. The _Mercure de France_ +is one of those held in most esteem; and habit, as well as the spirit +of party, concurs in making the fortune of this journal. There exists +another, conducted by a member of the Institute, named POUGENS, under +the title of _Bibliothèque Française_, which is spoken of very +favourably. But that which appears every ten days, under the name of +_Décade Philosophique_, is the best production of the sort. A society +of literary men, prudent, well-informed, and warmly attached to their +country, are its authors, and deposit in it a well-digested analysis +of every thing new that appears in the arts, sciences, or literature. +Nevertheless, a labour so carefully performed, is perfectly +disinterested. This is the only enterprise of the kind that does not +afford a livelihood to its associates, and is supported by a zeal +altogether gratuitous. + +Without seeking to blame or approve the title of this last-mentioned +journal, I shall only remark that the word _Décade_, coupled with the +word _Philosophique_, becomes in the eyes of many persons a double +cause of reprobation; and that, at this day, more than ever, those +two words are, in the opinion the most in fashion, marked by a +proscription that is reflected on every thing which belongs to the +science of philosophy. + +This would be the moment to inquire into the secret or ostensible +causes which have led to the retrograde course that is to be remarked +in France in the ideas which have been hitherto reckoned as conducive +to the advancement of reason. This would be the moment to observe the +new government of France endeavouring to balance, the one by the +other, the opinions sprung from the Republic, and those daily +conjured up from the Monarchy; holding in _equilibrio_ two colours of +doctrines so diametrically opposite, and consequently two parties +equally dissatisfied at not being able to crush each other, +_neutralizing_ them, in short, by its immense influence in the +employment of their strength, when they bewilder or exhaust +themselves uselessly for its interests; but I could not touch on +these matters, without travelling out of the domain of literature, +which is the only one that is at present familiar to me, in order to +enter into yours, where you have not leisure to direct me; and you +may conceive with what an ill grace I should appear, in making before +you, in politics, excursions, which, probably, would have for me the +inconvenience of commanding great efforts, without leaving me the +hope of adding any thing to your stock of information. + + + +LETTER XXXV. + +_Paris, December 18, 1801._ + +Divided as Paris is by the Seine, it seldom happens that one has not +occasion to cross it more than once in the course of the day. I shall +therefore make you acquainted with the bridges which connect to its +banks the islands situated in that part of the river I have not yet + +described. Being out of my general track, I might otherwise forget to +make any further mention of them, which would be a manifest omission, +now you have before you the Plan of Paris. + +We will also embrace the opportunity of visiting the _Palais de +Justice_ and the Cathedral of _Notre-Dame_. East of the _Pont-Neuf_, +we first arrive at the + +PONT AU CHANGE. + +This bridge, which leads from the north bank of the Seine to the _Ile +du Palais_, is one of the most ancient in Paris. Though, like all +those of which I have now to speak, it crosses but one channel of the +river, it was called the _Grand Pont_, till the year 1141, when it +acquired its present name on Lewis VII establishing here all the +money-changers of Paris. + +It was also called _Pont aux Oiseaux_, because bird-sellers were +permitted to carry on their business here, on condition of letting +loose two hundred dozen of birds, at the moment when kings and queens +passed, in their way to the cathedral, on the day of their public +entry. By this custom, it was intended to signify that, if the people +had been oppressed in the preceding reign, their rights, privileges, +and liberties would be fully re-established under the new monarch. + +On the public entry of Isabeau de Bavière, wife of Charles VI, a +Genoese stretched a rope from the top of the towers of _Notre-Dame_ +to one of the houses on this bridge: he thence descended, dancing on +this rope, with a lighted torch in each hand. Habited as an angel, he +placed a crown on the head of the new queen, and reascending his +rope, he appeared again in the air. The chronicle adds that, as it +was already dark, he was seen by all Paris and the environs. + +This bridge was then of wood, and covered with houses also of wood. +Two fires, one of which happened in 1621, and the other in 1639, +occasioned it to be rebuilt of stone in 1647. + +The _Pont au Change_ consists of seven arches. Previously to the +demolition of the houses, which, till 1786, stood on each side of +this bridge, the passage was sufficiently wide for three carriages. + +Traversing the _Ile du Palais_ from north to south, in order to +proceed from the _Pont au Change_ to the _Pont St. Michel_, we pass +in front of the + +PALAIS DE JUSTICE. + +Towards the end of the ninth century, this palace was begun by Eudes. +It was successively enlarged by Robert, son of Hugh Capet, by St. +Lewis, and by Philip the Fair. Under Charles V, who abandoned it to +occupy the _Hôtel St. Paul_, which he had built, it was nothing more +than an assemblage of large towers, communicating with each other by +galleries. In 1383, Charles VI made it his residence. In 1431, +Charles VII relinquished it to the Parliament of Paris. However, +Francis I. took up his abode here for some time. + +It was in the great hall of this palace that the kings of France +formerly received ambassadors, and gave public entertainments. + +On Whitsunday, 1313, Philip the Fair here knighted his three sons, +with all the ceremonies of ancient chivalry. The king of England, our +unfortunate Edward II, and his abominable queen Isabella, who were +invited, crossed the sea on purpose, and were present at this +entertainment, together with a great number of English barons. It +lasted eight days, and is spoken of, by historians, as a most +sumptuous banquet. + +This magnificent hall, as well as great part of the palace, being +reduced to ashes in 1618, it was rebuilt, in its present state, under +the direction of that skilful architect, JACQUES DE BROSSES. It is +both spacious and majestic, and is the only hall of the kind in +France: the arches and arcades which support it are of hewn stone. + +Another fire, which happened in 1776, consumed all the part extending +from the gallery of prisoners to the _Sainte Chapelle_, founded by +St. Lewis, and where, before the revolution, were shewn a number of +costly relics. The ravages occasioned by this fire, were repaired in +1787, and the space in front laid open by the erection of uniform +buildings in the form of a crescent. To two gloomy gothic gates has +been substituted an iron railing, of one hundred and twenty feet in +extent, through which is seen a spacious court formed by two wings of +new edifices, and a majestic façade that affords an entrance to the +interior of the palace. + +In this court Madame La Motte, who, in 1786, made so conspicuous a +figure in the noted affair of the diamond necklace, was publicly +whipped. I was in Paris at the time, though not present at the +execution of the sentence. + +In the railing, are three gates, the centre one of which is charged +with garlands and other gilt ornaments. At the two ends are pavilions +decorated with four Doric pillars. Towards the _Pont St. Michel_ is a +continuation of the building ornamented with a bas-relief, at present +denominated _Le serment civique_. + +At the top of a flight of steps, is an avant-corps, with four Doric +columns, a balustrade above the entablature, four statues standing on +a level with the base of the pillars, and behind, a square dome. + +These steps lead you to the _Mercière_ gallery, having on the one +side, the _Sainte Chapelle_, and on the other, the great hall, called +the _Salle des Procureurs_. In this extensive hall are shops, for the +sale of eatables and pamphlets, which, since the suppression of the +Parliament, seem to have little custom, as well as those of the +milliners, &c. in the other galleries. + +In what was formerly called the _grande chambre_, where the +Parliament of Paris used to sit, the ill-fated Lewis XVI, in 1788, +held the famous bed of justice, in which D'ESPRESMENIL, one of the +members of that body, struck the first blow at royalty; a blow that +was revenged by a _lettre de cachet_, which exiled him to the _Ile de +St. Marguerite_, famous for being the place of confinement of the +great personage who was always compelled to wear an _iron mask_. The +courage of this counsellor, who was a noble and deputy of the +_noblesse_, may be considered as the _primum mobile_ of the +revolution. Under the despotism of the court, he braved all its +vengeance; but, in the sequel, he afforded a singular proof of the +instability of the human mind. After haying stirred up all the +parliaments against the royal authority, he again became the humble +servant of the crown. + +After the revolution, the _Palais de Justice_ became the seat of the +Revolutionary Tribunal, where the satellites of Robespierre, not +content with sending to the scaffold sixty victims at a time, +complained of the insufficiency of their means for bringing to trial +all the enemies of liberty. Dumas, at one time president of this +sanguinary tribunal, proposed to his colleagues to join to the hall, +where the tribunal sat, part of the great hall of the palace, in +order to assemble there five or six hundred victims at a time; and on +its being observed to him that such a sight might in the end disgust +the people; "Well," said he, "there's but one method of accomplishing +our object, without any obstacle, that is to erect a guillotine in +the court-yard of every prison, and cause the prisoners to be +executed there during the night." Had not Robespierre's downfall +involved that of all his blood-thirsty dependents, there seems no +doubt that this plan would have been carried into speedy execution. + +Nothing can paint the vicissitude of human events in colours more +striking than the transitions of this critical period. Dumas who made +this proposal, and had partially satisfied his merciless disposition +by signing, a few hours before, the death-warrant of sixty victims, +was the very next day brought before the same tribunal, composed of +his accomplices, or rather his creatures, and by them condemned to +die. Thus did experience confirm the general observation, that the +multiplicity and enormity of punishments announces an approaching +revolution. The torrents of blood which tyrants shed, are, in the +end, swelled by their own. + +In lieu of a tribunal of blood, the _Palais de Justice_ is now +appropriated to the sittings of the three tribunals, designated by +the following titles: _Tribunal de cassation_, _Tribunal d'appel_, +and _Tribunal de première instance_. The first of these, the +_Tribunal de cassation_, occupies the audience-chambers of the late +parliament; while the _grande chambre_ is appointed for the meetings +of its united Sections. The decoration of this spacious apartment is +entirely changed: it is embellished in the antique style; and a +person in contemplating it might fancy himself at Athens. + +Adjoining to the _Palais de Justice_, is the famous prison, so +dreaded in the early periods of the revolution, called + +LA CONCIERGERIE. + +From this fatal abode, neither talent, virtue, nor patriotism could, +at one time, secure those who possessed such enviable qualities. +Lavoisier, Malsherbes, Condorcet, &c. were here successively immured, +previously to being sent to the guillotine. Here too the unfortunate +Marie-Antoinette lived in a comfortless manner, from the 2nd of July, +1793, to the 13th of October following, the period of her +condemnation. + +On being reconducted to the prison, at four o'clock in the morning, +after hearing her sentence read, the hapless queen displayed a +fortitude worthy of the daughter of the high-minded Maria Theresa. +She requested a few hours' respite, to compose her mind, and +entreated to be left to herself in the room which she had till then +occupied. The moment she was alone, she first cut off her hair, and +then laying aside her widow's weeds, which she had always worn since +the death of the king, put on a white dress, and threw herself on her +bed, where she slept till eleven o'clock the same morning, when she +was awakened, in order to be taken to the scaffold. + +Continuing to cross the _Ile du Palais_ in a direction towards the +south, we presently reach the + +PONT ST. MICHEL. + +This bridge stands in a direct line with the _Pont au Change_, and is +situated on the south channel of the river. It was formerly of wood: +but having been frequently destroyed, it was rebuilt with stone in +1618, and covered on both sides with houses. From the _Pont Neuf_, +the back of these buildings has a most disagreeable and filthy +appearance. It is said that they are to be taken down, as those have +been which stood on the other bridges. + +In severe winters, when there is much ice in the river, it is +curious, on the breaking up of the frost, to behold families +deserting their habitations, like so many rats, and carrying with +them their valuables, from the apprehension that these crazy +tenements might fall into the river. This wise precaution is +suggested by the knowledge of these bridges, when built of wood, +having been often swept away by ice or great inundations. + +The _Pont St. Michel_ consists of four arches. Its length is two +hundred and sixty-eight feet, by sixty in breadth, including the +houses, between which is a passage for three carriages. + +If, to avoid being entangled in narrow, dirty streets, we return, by +the same route, to the north bank of the Seine, and proceed to the +westward, along the _Quai de Gévres_, which is partly built on piles, +driven into the bed of the river, we shall come to the + +PONT NOTRE-DAME. + +A wooden bridge, which previously existed here, having been +frequently carried away by inundations, Lewis XII ordered the +construction of the present one of stone, which was begun in 1499, +and completed in 1507. It was built from the plan of one JOCONDE, a +Cordelier, and native of Verona, and is generally admired for the +solidity, as well as beauty of its architecture. It consists of six +arches, and is two hundred and seventy-six feet in length. Formerly +it was bordered by houses, which were taken down in 1786: this has +rendered the quarter more airy, and consequently more salubrious. + +It was on this bridge that the Pope's Legate reviewed the +ecclesiastical infantry of the League, on the the 3d of June, 1590. +Capuchins, Minimes, Cordeliers, Jacobins or Dominicans, Feuillans, +&c. all with their robe tucked up, their cowl thrown behind, a helmet +on their head, a coat of mail on their body, a sword by their side, +and a musquet on their shoulder, marched four by four, headed by the +reverend bishop of Senlis, bearing a spontoon. But some of this holy +soldiery, forgetting that their pieces were loaded with ball, wished +to salute the Legate, and killed by his side one of his chaplains. +His Eminence finding that it began to grow hot at this review, +hastened to give his benediction, and vanished. + + +_December 18, in continuation_. + +Traversing once more two-thirds of the _Ile du Palais_ in a direction +from north to south, and then striking off to the east, up the _Rue +de Callandre_, we reach the + +CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE-DAME. + +This church, the first ever built in Paris, was begun about the year +375, under the reign of the emperor Valentinian I. It was then called +_St. Etienne_ or _St. Stephen's_, and there was as yet no other +within the walls of this city in 1522, when Childebert, son of +Clovis, repaired and enlarged it, adding to it a new basilic, which +was dedicated to _Notre Dame_ or Our Lady. + +More anciently, under Tiberius, there had been, on the same spot, an +altar in the open air, dedicated to Jupiter and other pagan gods, +part of which is still in being at the MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONUMENTS, in +the _Rue des Petits Augustins_. + +These two churches existed till about the year 1160, under the reign +of Lewis the Young, when the construction of the present cathedral +was begun partly on their foundations. It was not finished till 1185, +during the reign of Philip Augustus. + +This Gothic Church is one of the handsomest and most spacious in +France. It has a majestic and venerable appearance, and is supported +by one hundred and twenty clustered columns. Its length is three +hundred and ninety feet by one hundred and forty-four in breadth, and +one hundred and two in height. + +We must not expect to find standing here the twenty-six kings, +benefactors of this church, from Childeric I to Philip Augustus, +fourteen feet high, who figured on the same line, above the three +doors of the principal façade. They have all fallen under the blows +of the iconoclasts, and are now piled up behind the church. There lie +round-bellied Charlemagne, with his pipe in his mouth, and Pepin the +Short, with his sword in his hand, and a lion, the emblem of courage, +under his feet. The latter, like Tydeus, mentioned in the Iliad, +though small in stature, was stout in heart, as appears from the +following anecdote related of him by the monk of St. Gal. + +In former times, as is well known, kings took a delight in setting +wild beasts and ferocious animals to fight against each other. At one +of thege fights, between a lion and a bull, in the abbey of +Ferrières, Pepin the Short, who knew that some noblemen were daily +exercising their pleasantry on his small stature, addressed to them +this question: "Which of you feels himself bold enough to kill or +separate those terrible animals?" Seeing that not one of them stepped +forward, and that the proposal alone made them shudder: "Well," added +he, "'tis I then who will perform the feat." He accordingly descended +from his place, drew his sword, killed the lion, at another stroke +cut off the head of the bull, and then looking fiercely at the +railers: "Know," said he to them, "that stature adds nothing to +courage, and that I shall find means to bring to the ground the proud +persons who shall dare to despise me, as little David laid low the +great giant Goliah." Hence the attribute given to the statue of king +Pepin, which not long since adorned the façade of _Notre-Dame_. + +The groups of angels, saints, and patriarchs, which, no doubt, owe +their present existence only to their great number, still present to +the eye of the observer that burlesque mixture of the profane and +religious, so common in the symbolical representations of the twelfth +century. These figures adorn the triple row of indented borders of +the arches of the three doors. + +Two enormous square towers, each two hundred and two feet in height, +and terminated by a platform, decorate each end of the cathedral. The +ascent to them is by a winding staircase of three hundred and +eighty-nine steps, and their communication is by a gallery which +has no support but Gothic pillars of a lightness that excites +admiration. + +Independently of the six bells, which have disappeared with the +little belfry that contained them, in the two towers were ten, one of +which weighed forty-four thousand pounds. + +At the foot of the north tower is the rural calendar or zodiac, which +has been described by M. Le Gentil, member of the Academy of +Sciences. The Goths had borrowed from the Indians this custom of thus +representing rustic labours at the entrance of their temples. + +Another Gothic bas-relief, which is seen on the left, in entering by +the great door, undoubtedly represents that condemned soul who, +tradition says, rose from his bier, during divine service, in order +to pronounce his own damnation. + +None of the forty-five chapels have preserved the smallest vestige of +their ornaments. Those which escaped the destructive rage of the +modern Vandals, have been transported to the MUSEUM OF FRENCH +MONUMENTS. The most remarkable are the statue of Pierre de Gondi, +archbishop of Paris, the mausoleum of the Conte d'Harcourt, designed +by his widow, the modern Artemisia, and executed by Pigalle, together +with the group representing the vow of St. Lewis, by Costou the +elder. Six angels in bronze, which were seen at the further end of +the choir, have also been removed thither. + +The stalls present, in square and oval compartments, bas-reliefs very +delicately sculptured, representing subjects taken from the life of +the Holy Virgin and from the New Testament. Of the two episcopal +pulpits, which are at the further end, the one, that of the +archbishop, represents the martyrdom of St. Denis; the other, +opposite, the cure of king Childebert, by the intercession of St. +Germain. + +Some old tapestry, hung scantily round the choir, makes one regret +the handsome iron railing, so richly wrought, by which it was +inclosed, and some valuable pictures, which now figure in the grand +Gallery of the CENTRAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS. + +The nave, quite as naked as the choir and the sanctuary, had been +enriched, as far as the space would admit, with pictures, twelve feet +high, given for a long time, on every first of May, by the +Goldsmiths' company and the fraternity of St. Anne and St. Marcel. + +On the last pillar of the nave, on the right, was the equestrian +statue of Philip of Valois. That king was here represented on +horseback, with his vizor down, sword in hand, and armed cap-à-pié, +in the very manner in which he rode into the cathedral of +_Notre-Dame_, in 1328, after the battle of Cassel. At the foot of +the altar he left his horse, together with his armour, which he had +worn in the battle, as an offering to the Holy Virgin, after having +returned thanks to God and to her, say historians, for the victory +he had obtained through her intercession. + +Above the lateral alleys, as well of the choir as of the nave, are +large galleries, separated by little pillars of a single piece, and +bordered by iron balustrades. Here spectators place themselves to see +grand ceremonies. From their balconies were formerly suspended the +colours taken from the enemy: these are now displayed in the _Temple +of Mars_ at the HÔTEL DES INVALIDES. + +The organ, which appears to have suffered no injury, is reckoned one +of the loudest and most complete in France. It is related that +Daquin, an incomparable organist, who died in 1781, once imitated the +nightingale on it so perfectly, that the beadle was sent on the roof +of the church, to endeavour to discover the musical bird. + +Some of the stained glass is beautiful. Two roses, restored to their +original state, the one on the side of the archipiscopal palace in +1726, and the other above the organ, in 1780, prove by their lustre, +that the moderns are not so inferior to the ancients, in the art of +painting on glass, as is commonly imagined. + +Should your curiosity lead you to contemplate the house of Fulbert, +the canon, the supposed uncle to the tender Héloïse, where that +celebrated woman passed her youthful days, you must enter, by the +cloister of _Notre-Dame_, into the street that leads to the _Pont +Rouge_, since removed. It is the last house on the right under the +arcade, and is easily distinguished by two medallions in stone, +preserved on the façade, though it has been several times rebuilt +during the space of six hundred years. All the authors who have +written on the antiquities of Paris, speak of these medallions as +being real portraits of Abélard and Héloïse. It is presumable that +they were so originally; but, without being a connoisseur, any one +may discover that the dresses of these figures are far more modern +than those peculiar to the twelfth century; whence it may be +concluded that the original portraits having been destroyed by time, +or by the alterations which the house has undergone, these busts have +been executed by some more modern sculptor of no great talents. + +Leaving the cathedral, by the _Rue Notre-Dame_, and turning to the +left, on reaching the _Marché Palu_, we come to the + +PETIT PONT. + +Like the _Pont St. Michel_, this bridge is situated on the south +channel of the river, and stands in a direct line with the _Pont +Notre-Dame_. It originally owed its construction to the following +circumstance. + +Four Jews, accused of having killed one of their converted brethren, +were condemned to be publicly whipped through all the streets of the +city, on four successive Sundays. After having suffered the half of +their sentence, to redeem themselves from the other half, they paid +18,000 francs of gold. This sum was appropriated to the erection of +the _Petit Pont_, the first stone of which was laid by Charles VI, in +1395. + +In 1718, two barges, loaded with hay, caught fire, and being cut +loose, drifted under the arches of this bridge, which, in the space +of four hours, was consumed, together with the houses standing on it. +The following year it was rebuilt, but without houses. + +Proceeding to the east, along the quays of the _Ile du Palais_, you +will find the + +PONT AU DOUBLE. + +This little bridge, situated behind the _Hôtel-Dieu_, of which I +shall speak hereafter, is destined for foot-passengers only, as was +the _Pont Rouge_. The latter was the point of communication between +the _Cité_ and the _Ile St. Louis_; but the frequent reparations +which it required, occasioned it to be removed in 1791, though, by +the Plan of Paris, it still appears to be in existence. However, it +is in contemplation to replace it by another of stone.[1] + +Supposing that you have regained the north bank of the Seine, by +means of the _Pont Notre-Dame_, you follow the quays, which skirt +that shore, till you reach the + +PONT MARIE. + +This bridge forms a communication between the _Port St. Paul_ and the +_Ile St. Louis_. The _Pont Marie_ was named after the engineer who +engaged with Henry IV to build it; but that prince having been +assassinated; the young king, Lewis XIII, and the queen dowager, laid +the first stone in 1614: it was finished, and bordered with houses, +in 1635. It consists of five arches. Its length is three hundred feet +by sixty-two in breadth. An inundation having carried away two of the +arches, in 1658, they were repaired without the addition of houses, +and in 1789, the others were removed. + +Passing through the _Rue des Deux Ponts_, which lies in a direct line +with the _Pont Marie_, we arrive at the + +PONT DE LA TOURNELLE. + +This bridge takes its name from the _Château de la Tournelle_, +contiguous to the _Porte St. Bernard_, where the galley-slaves used +formerly to be lodged, till they were sent off to the different +public works. It consists of six arches of solid construction, and is +bordered on each side by a foot-pavement. + +You are now acquainted with all the bridges in Paris; but should you +prefer crossing the Seine in a boat, there are several ferries +between the bridges, and at other convenient places. Here, you may +always meet with a waterman, who, for the sum of one _sou_, will +carry you over, whether master or lackey. Like the old ferryman +Charon, he makes no distinction of persons. + +[Footnote 1: Workmen are, at this moment, employed in the +construction of three new bridges. The first, already mentioned, will +form a communication between the _ci-devant Collège des Quatre +Nations_ and the _Louvre_; the second, between the _Ile du Palais_ +and the _Ile St. Louis_; and the third, between the _Jardin des +Plantes_ and the Arsenal.] + + + +LETTER XXXVI. + +_Paris, December 20, 1801._ + +What a charming abode is Paris, for a man who can afford to live at +the rate of a thousand or fifteen hundred pounds a year! Pleasures +wait not for him to go in quest of them; they come to him of their +own accord; they spring up, in a manner, under his very feet, and +form around him an officious retinue. Every moment of the day can +present a new gratification to him who knows how to enjoy it; and, +with prudent management, the longest life even would not easily +exhaust so ample a stock. + +Paris has long been termed an epitome of the world. But, perhaps, +never could this denomination be applied to it with so much propriety +as at the present moment. The chances of war have not only rendered +it the centre of the fine arts, the museum of the most celebrated +masterpieces in existence, the emporium where the luxury of Europe +comes to procure its superfluities; but the taste for pleasure has +also found means to assemble here all the enjoyments which Nature +seemed to have exclusively appropriated to other climates. + +Every country has its charms and advantages. Paris alone appears to +combine them all. Every region, every corner of the globe seems to +vie in hastening to forward hither the tribute of its productions. +Are you an epicure? No delicacy of the table but may be eaten in +Paris.--Are you a toper? No delicious wine but may be drunk, in +Paris.--Are you fond of frequenting places of public entertainment? +No sort of spectacle but may be seen in Paris.--Are you desirous of +improving your mind? No kind of instruction but may be acquired in +Paris.--Are you an admirer of the fair sex? No description of female +beauty but may be obtained in Paris.--Are you partial to the society +of men of extraordinary talents? No great genius but comes to display +his knowledge in Paris.--Are you inclined to discuss military topics? +No hero but brings his laurels to Paris.--In a word, every person, +favoured by Nature or Fortune, flies to enjoy the gifts of either in +Paris. Even every place celebrated in the annals of voluptuousness, +is, as it were, reproduced in Paris, which, in some shape or another, +presents its name or image. + +Without going out of this capital, you may, in the season when Nature +puts on her verdant livery, visit _Idalium_, present your incense to +the Graces, and adore, in her temple, the queen of love; while at +_Tivoli_, you may, perhaps, find as many beauties and charms as were +formerly admired at the enchanting spot on the banks of the Anio, +which, under its ancient name of _Tibur_, was so extolled by the +Latin poets; and close to the Boulevard, at _Frascati_, you may, in +that gay season, eat ices as good as those with which Cardinal de +Bernis used to regale his visiters, at his charming villa in the +_Campagna di Roma_. Who therefore need travel farther than Paris to +enjoy every gratification? + +If then, towards the close of a war, the most frightful and +destructive that ever was waged, the useful and agreeable seem to +have proceeded here hand in hand in improvement, what may not be +expected in the tranquillity of a few years' peace? Who knows but the +emperor Julian's "_dear Lutetia_" may one day vie in splendour with +Thebes and its hundred gates, or ancient Rome covering its seven +mountains? + +However, if _Tivoli_ and _Frascati_ throw open their delightful +recesses to the votaries of pleasure only in spring and summer, even +now, during the fogs of December, you may repair to + +PAPHOS. + +It might almost be said that you enter this place of amusement +gratis, for, though a slight tribute of seventy-five _centimes_ +(_circa_ seven-pence halfpenny sterling) is required for the +admission of every person, yet you may take refreshment to the amount +of that sum, without again putting your hand into your pocket; +because the counter mark, given at the door, is received at the bar +as ready-money. + +This speculation, the first of the kind in France, and one of the +most specious, is, by all accounts, also one of the most productive. +It would be too rigorous, no doubt, to compare the frequenters of the +modern PAPHOS to the inhabitants of the ancient. Here, indeed, you +must neither look for _élégantes_, nor _muscadins_; but you may view +belles, less gifted by Fortune, indulging in innocent recreation; and +for a while dispelling their cares, by dancing to the exhilarating +music of an orchestra not ill composed. Here, the grisette banishes +the _ennui_ of six days' application to the labours of her industry, +by footing it away on Sunday. Hither, in short, the less refined sons +and daughters of mirth repair to see and be seen, and to partake of +the general diversion. + +PAPHOS is situated on that part of the Boulevard, called the +_Boulevard du Temple_, whither I was led the other evening by that +sort of curiosity, which can be satisfied only when the objects that +afford it aliment are exhausted. I had just come out of another place +of public amusement, at no great distance, called + +LA PHANTASMAGORIE. + +This is an exhibition in the _Cour des Capucines_, adjoining to the +Boulevard, where ROBERTSON, a skilful professor of physics, amuses or +terrifies his audience by the appearance of spectres, phantoms, &c. +In the piece which I saw, called _Le Tombeau de Robespierre_, he +carries illusion to an extraordinary degree of refinement. His +cabinet of physics is rich, and his effects of optics are managed in +the true style of French gallantry. His experiments of galvanism +excite admiration. He repeats the difficult ones of M. VOLTA, and +clearly demonstrates the electrical phenomena presented by the +metallic pile. A hundred disks of silver and a hundred pieces of zinc +are sufficient for him to produce attractions, sparks, the divergency +of the electrometer, and electric hail. He charges a hundred Leyden +bottles by the simple contact of the metallic pile. ROBERTSON, I +understand, is the first who has made these experiments in Paris, and +has succeeded in discharging VOLTA's pistol by the galvanic spark. + +FITZJAMES, a famous ventriloquist, entertains and astonishes the +company by a display of his powers, which are truly surprising. + +You may, perhaps, be desirous to procure your family circle the +satisfaction of enjoying the _Phantasmagoria_, though not on the +grand scale on which it is exhibited by ROBERTSON. By the +communication of a friend, I am happy in being enabled to make you +master of the secret, as nothing can be more useful in the education +of children than to banish from their mind the deceitful illusion of +ghosts and hobgoblins, which they are so apt to imbibe from their +nurses. But to the point--"You have," says my author, "only to call +in the first itinerant foreigner, who perambulates the streets with a +_galantee-show_ (as it is commonly termed in London), and by +imparting to him your wish, if he is not deficient in intelligence +and skill, he will soon be able to give you a rehearsal of the +apparition of phantoms: for, by approaching or withdrawing the stand +of his show, and finding the focus of his glasses, you will see the +objects diminish or enlarge either on the white wall, or the sheet +that is extended. + +"The illusion which leads us to imagine that an object which +increases in all its parts, is advancing towards us, is the basis of +the _Phantasmagoria_, and, in order to produce it with the +_galantee-show_, you have only to withdraw slowly the lantern from +the place on which the image is represented, by approaching the outer +lens to that on which the object is traced: this is easily done, that +glass being fixed in a moveable tube like that of an opera-glass. +As for approaching the lantern gradually, it may be effected with the +same facility, by placing it on a little table with castors, and, by +means of a very simple mechanism, it is evident that both these +movements may be executed together in suitable progression. + +"The deception recurred to by phantasmagorists is further increased +by the mystery that conceals, from the eyes of the public, their +operations and optical instruments: but it is easy for the showman to +snatch from them this superiority, and to strengthen the illusion for +the children whom you choose to amuse with this sight. For that +purpose, he has only to change the arrangement of the sheet, by +requiring it to be suspended from the ceiling, between him and the +spectators, much in the same manner as the curtain of a playhouse, +which separates the stage from the public. The transparency of the +cloth shews through it the coloured rays, and, provided it be not of +too thick and too close a texture, the image presents itself as clear +on the one side as on the other. + +"If to these easy means you could unite those employed by ROBERTSON, +such as the black hangings, which absorb the coloured rays, the +little musical preparations, and others, you might transform all the +_galantee-shows_ into as many _phantasmagorias_, in spite of the +priority of invention, which belongs, conscientiously, to Father +KIRCHER, a German Jesuit, who first found means to apply his +knowledge respecting light to the construction of the magic lantern. + +"The coloured figures, exhibited by the phatasmagorists, have no +relation to these effects of light: they are effigies covered with +gold-beater's skin, or any other transparent substance, in which is +placed a dark lantern. The light of this lantern is extinguished or +concealed by pulling a string, or touching a spring, at the moment +when any one wishes to seize on the figure, which, by this +contrivance, seems to disappear. + +"The proprietors of the grand exhibitions of _phantasmagoria_ join to +these simple means a combination of different effects, which they +partly derive from the phenomena, presented by the _camera obscura_. +Some faint idea of that part of physics, called optics, which NEWTON +illuminated, by his genius and experience, are sufficient for +conceiving the manner in which these appearances are produced, though +they require instruments and particular care to give them proper +effect." + +Such is the elucidation given of the _phantasmagoria_ by an +intelligent observer, whose friend favoured me with this +communication. + + + +LETTER XXXVII. + +_Paris, December 21, 1801._ + +If Paris affords a thousand enjoyments to the man of fortune, it may +truly be said that, without money, Paris is the most melancholy abode +in the world. Privations are then the more painful, because desires +and even wants are rendered more poignant by the ostentatious display +of every object which might satisfy them. What more cruel for an +unfortunate fellow, with an empty purse, than to pass by the kitchen +of a _restaurateur_, when, pinched by hunger, he has not the means of +procuring himself a dinner? His olfactory nerves being still more +readily affected when his stomach is empty, far from affording him a +pleasing sensation, then serve only to sharpen the torment which he +suffers. It is worse than the punishment of Tantalus, who, dying with +thirst, could not drink, though up to his chin in water. + +Really, my dear friend, I would advise every rich epicure to fix his +residence in this city. Without being plagued by the details of +housekeeping, or even at the trouble of looking at a bill of fare, he +might feast his eye, and his appetite too, on the inviting plumpness +of a turkey, stuffed with truffles. A boar's head set before him, +with a Seville orange between its tusks, might make him fancy that he +was discussing the greatest interests of mankind at the table of an +Austrian Prime Minister, or British Secretary of State; while _pâtés_ +of _Chartres_ or of _Périgord_ hold out to his discriminating palate +all the refinements of French seasoning. These, and an endless +variety of other dainties, no less tempting, might he contemplate +here, in walking past a _magazin de comestibles_ or +provision-warehouse. + +Among the changes introduced here, within these few years, I had +heard much of the improvements in the culinary art, or rather in the +manner of serving up its productions; but, on my first arrival in +Paris, I was so constantly engaged in a succession of dinner-parties, +that some time elapsed before I could avail myself of an opportunity +of dining at the house of any of the fashionable + +RESTAURATEURS. + +This is a title of no very ancient date in Paris. _Traiteurs_ have +long existed here: independently of furnishing repasts at home, these +_traiteurs_, like Birch in Cornhill, or any other famous London cook, +sent out dinners and suppers. But, in 1765, one BOULANGER conceived +the idea of _restoring_ the exhausted animal functions of the +debilitated Parisians by rich soups of various denominations. Not +being a _traiteur_, it appears that he was not authorized to serve +ragouts; he therefore, in addition to his _restorative_ soups, set +before his customers new-laid eggs and boiled fowl with strong gravy +sauce: those articles were served up without a cloth, on little +marble tables. Over his door he placed the following inscription, +borrowed from Scripture: "_Venite ad me omnes qui stomacho laboratis, +et ego restaurabo vos._" + +Such was the origin of the word and profession of _restaurateur_. + +Other cooks, in imitation of BOULANGER, set up as _restorers_, on a +similar plan, in all the places of public entertainment where such +establishments were admissible. Novelty, fashion, and, above all, +dearness, brought them into vogue. Many a person who would have been +ashamed to be seen going into a _traiteur's_, made no hesitation of +entering a _restaurateur's_, where he paid nearly double the price +for a dinner of the same description. However, as, in all trades, it +is the great number of customers that enrich the trader, rather than +the select few, the _restaurateurs_, in order to make their business +answer, were soon under the necessity of constituting themselves +_traiteurs_; so that, in lieu of one title, they now possess two; and +this is the grand result of the primitive establishment. + +At the head of the most noted _restaurateurs_ in Paris, previously to +the revolution, was LA BARRIÈRE in the _ci-devant Palais Royal_; but, +though his larder was always provided with choice food, his cellar +furnished with good wines, his bill of fare long, and the number of +his customers considerable, yet his profits, he said, were not +sufficiently great to allow him to cover his tables with linen. This +omission was supplied by green wax cloth; a piece of economy which, +he declared, produced him a saving of near 10,000 livres (_circa_ +400£ sterling) per annum in the single article of washing. Hence you +may form an idea of the extent of such an undertaking. I have often +dined at LA BARRIÈRE'S was always well served, at a moderate charge, +and with remarkable expedition. Much about that time, BEAUVILLIERS, +who had opened, within the same precincts, a similar establishment, +but on a more refined plan, proved a most formidable rival to LA +BARRIÈRE, and at length eclipsed him. + +After a lapse of almost eleven years, I again find this identical +BEAUVILLIERS still in the full enjoyment of the greatest celebrity. +ROBERT and NAUDET in the _Palais du Tribunat_, and VÉRY on the +_Terrace des Feuillant_ dispute with him the palm in the art of +Apicius. All these, it is true, furnish excellent repasts, and their +wines are not inferior to their cooking: but, after more than one +impartial trial, I think I am justified in giving the preference to +BEAUVILLIERS. Let us then take a view of his arrangements: this, with +a few variations in price or quality, will serve as a general picture +of the _ars coquinaria_ in Paris. + +On the first floor of a large hotel, formerly occupied, perhaps, by a +farmer-general, you enter a suite of apartments, decorated with +arabesques, and mirrors of large dimensions, in a style no less +elegant than splendid, where tables are completely arranged for large +or small parties. In winter, these rooms are warmed by ornamental +stoves, and lighted by _quinquets_, a species of Argand's lamps. They +are capable of accommodating from two hundred and fifty to three +hundred persons, and, at this time of the year, the average number +that dine here daily is about two hundred; in summer, it is +considerably decreased by the attractions of the country, and the +parties of pleasure made, in consequence, to the environs of the +capital. + +On the left hand, as you pass into the first room, rises a sort of +throne, not unlike the _estrado_ in the grand audience-chamber of a +Spanish viceroy. This throne is encircled by a barrier to keep +intruders at a respectful distance. Here sits a lady, who, from her +majestic gravity and dignified bulk, you might very naturally suppose +to be an empress, revolving in her comprehensive mind the affairs of +her vast dominions. This respectable personage is Madame +BEAUVILLIERS, whose most interesting concern is to collect from the +gentlemen in waiting the cash which they receive at the different +tables. In this important branch, she has the assistance of a lady, +somewhat younger than herself, who, seated by her side, in stately +silence, has every appearance of a maid of honour. A person in +waiting near the throne, from his vacant look and obsequious +carriage, might, at first sight, be taken for a chamberlain; whereas +his real office, by no means an unimportant one, is to distribute +into deserts the fruit and other _et ceteras_, piled up within his +reach in tempting profusion. + +We will take our seats in this corner, whence, without laying down +our knife and fork, we can enjoy a full view of the company as they +enter. We are rather early: by the clock, I perceive that it is no +more than five: at six, however, there will scarcely be a vacant seat +at any of the tables. "_Garçon, la carte_!"--"_La voilà devant vous, +Monsieur._" + +Good heaven! the bill of fare is a printed sheet of double _folio_, +of the size of an English newspaper. It will require half an hour at +least to con over this important catalogue. Let us see; Soups, +thirteen sorts.--_Hors-d'oeuvres_, twenty-two species.--Beef, dressed +in eleven different ways.--Pastry, containing fish, flesh and fowl, +in eleven shapes. Poultry and game, under thirty-two various forms. +--Veal, amplified into twenty-two distinct articles.--Mutton, confined +to seventeen only.--Fish, twenty-three varieties.--Roast meat, game, +and poultry, of fifteen kinds.--Entremets, or side-dishes, to the +number of forty-one articles.--Desert, thirty-nine.--Wines, including +those of the liqueur kind, of fifty-two denominations, besides ale +and porter.--Liqueurs, twelve species, together with coffee and ices. + +Fudge! fudge! you cry--Pardon me, my good friend, 'tis no fudge. Take +the tremendous bill of fare into your own hand. _Vide et lege_. As we +are in no particular hurry, travel article by article through the +whole enumeration. This will afford you the most complete notion of +the expense of dining at a fashionable _restaurateur's_ in Paris. + +BEAUVILLIERS, RESTAURATEUR + +_Anciennement à la grande Tavernede la République, Palais-Egalité, +No. 142, Présentement Rue de la LOI, No. 1243._ + +PRIX DES METS POUR UNE PERSONNE.--LES ARTICLES DONT +LES PRIX NE SONT POINT FIXES, MANQUENT. + + + POTAGES. + + fr. s. + Potage aux laitues et petits pois 0 15 + Potage aux croûtons à la purée 0 15 + Potage aux choux 0 15 + Potage au consommé 0 12 + Potage au pain 0 12 + Potage de santé 0 12 + Potage au vermicel 0 12 + Potage au ris 0 12 + Potage à la julienne 0 12 + Potage printanier 0 15 + Potage à la purée 0 15 + Potage au lait d'amandes 0 15 + Potage en tortue 1 10 + + HORS-D'OEUVRES. + + Tranche de melon 1 0 + Artichaud à la poivrade 0 15 + Raves et Radis 0 6 + Salade de concombres 1 10 + Thon mariné 1 10 + Anchois à l'huile 1 5 + Olives 0 15 + Pied de cochon à la Sainte-Mènéhould 0 12 + Cornichons 0 8 + Petit salé aux choux 1 5 + Saucisses aux choux 0 18 + 1 Petit Pain de Beurre 0 4 + 2 OEufs frais 0 12 + 1 Citron 0 8 + Rissole à la Choisy 1 0 + Croquette de volaille 1 4 + 3 Rognons à la brochette 1 0 + Tête de veau en tortue 2 5 + Tête de veau au naturel 1 0 + 1 Côtelette de porc frais, sauce robert 1 0 + Chou-Croûte garni 1 10 + Jambon de Mayence aux épinards 1 5 + + ENTRÉES DE BOEUF. + + fr. s. + Boeuf au naturel ou à la sauce 0 15 + Boeuf aux choux ou aux légumes 0 18 + Carnebif 1 10 + Rosbif 1 5 + Filet de Boeuf sauté dans sa glace 1 5 + Bifteck 1 5 + Entre-côte, sauce aux cornichons 1 5 + Palais de Boeuf au gratin 1 4 + Palais de Boeuf à la poulette ou à l'Italienne 1 0 + Langue de Boeuf glacée aux épinards 1 0 + Jarrets de veau 0 15 + + ENTRÉES DE PATISSERIE. + + Pâté chaud de légumes 1 5 + 2 petits Pâtés à la Béchamel 1 4 + 2 petits Pâtés au jus 0 16 + 1 Pâté chaud d'anguille 1 10 + 1 Pâté chaud de crêtes et de rognons de coqs 2 0 + Tourte de godiveau 1 0 + Tourte aux confitures 1 5 + Vol-au-Vent de filets de volailles 2 0 + Vol-au-Vent de Saumon frais 1 10 + Vol-au-Vent de morue à la Béchamel 1 5 + Vol-au-Vent de cervelle de veau à l'Allemande 1 5 + + ENTRÉES DE VOLAILLES. + (_Toutes les entrées aux Truffes sont de 15 de plus_). + + fr. s. + Caille aux petits pois 2 10 + Pigeon à la crapaudine 2 10 + Chapon au riz, le quart 2 15 + Chapon au gros sel, le quart 2 10 + Demi-poulet aux Truffes ou aux Huitres 4 0 + Fricassée de poulets garnie, la moitié 3 10 + Fricassée de poulets, la moitié 3 0 + Salade de volaille 3 0 + Friteau de poulet, la moitié 3 0 + Demi-poulet à la ravigotte ou à la tartare 3 0 + Marinade de poulet, la moitié 3 0 + Le quart d'un poulet à l'estragon ou à la crème ou + aux laitues 1 10 + Blanquette de poularde 2 10 + 1 cuisse de poulet aux petits pois 2 0 + 1 cuisse de volaille au jambon 2 0 + 2 côtelettes de poulet 3 0 + 1 cuisse ou aile de poulet en papillote 1 10 + 1 cuisse de poulet à la Provençale 1 10 + Ragoût mêlé de crêtes et de rognons de coqs 3 0 + Capilotade de volaille 3 0 + Filet de poularde au suprême 3 0 + Mayonaise de volaille 3 0 + Cuisses de Dindon grillées, sauce robert 3 0 + Le quart d'un Canard aux petits pois ou aux navets 1 10 + Foie gras en caisses ou en matelote + Perdrix aux choux, la moitié + Salmi de perdreau au vin de Champagne + Pigeons en compote ou aux petits pois 2 10 + Béchamel de blanc de volaille 2 10 + 2 cuisses de poulet en hochepot 1 10 + Ailerons de dinde aux navets 1 10 + Blanc de volaille aux concombres 3 0 + + ENTRÉES DE VEAU. + + fr. s. + Riz de veau piqué, à l'oseille ou à la chicorée 2 0 + Riz de veau à la poulette 2 0 + Fricandeau aux petits pois 1 5 + Fricandeau à la chicorée 1 4 + Fricandeau à la ravigotte 1 4 + Fricandeau à l'oseille 1 4 + Fricandeau à l'Espagnole 1 4 + Côtelette de veau au jambon 1 4 + Côtelette de veau aux petits pois 1 10 + Côtelette de veau en papillotte 1 5 + Côtelette de veau panée, sauce piquante 1 0 + Côtelette de veau, sauce tomate 1 5 + Blanquette de veau 1 0 + Oreille de veau à la ravigotte 1 4 + Oreille de veau farcie, frite 1 4 + Oreille de veau frite ou en marinade 1 4 + Cervelle de veau en matelote 1 4 + Cervelle de veau à la purée 1 4 + Tendons de veau panés, grillés, sauce piquante 1 4 + Tendons de veau à la poulette 1 4 + Tendons de veauen macédoine 1 5 + Tendons de veau aux petits pois 1 5 + + ENTRÉES DE MOUTON. + + Gigot de mouton braisé, aux légumes 1 0 + Tendons de mouton grillés 0 18 + Tendons de mouton aux petits pois 1 5 + Hachi de mouton à la Portugaise 1 0 + 2 Côtelettes de mouton à la minute 1 5 + 2 Côtelettes de mouton aux racines 1 5 + 2 Côtelettes de mouton au naturel 0 18 + 2 Côtelettes de pré 1 0 + Epigramme d'agneau + 2 Côtelettes d'agneau au naturel + Tendons d'agneau aux pointes d'asperges + Tendons d'agneau aux petits pois + Blanquette d'agneau + Filet de chevreuil 1 5 + Côtelette de chevreuil + Queue de mouton à la purée 1 5 + Queue de mouton à l'oseille ou à la chicorée 1 5 + + ENTRÉES DE POISSONS. + + fr. s. + Merlan frit + Maquereau à la maître d'hôtel + Saumon frais, sauce aux câpres 2 10 + Raie, sauce aux câpres ou au beurre noir 1 10 + Turbot, sauce aux câpres 2 10 + Cabillaud + Morue fraîche au beurre fondu + Morue d'Hol. à la maître-d'hôtel ou à la Provençale 1 10 + Sole frite + Sole sur le plat 5 0 + Eperlans frits + Barbue + Turbotin + Matelote de carpe et d'anguille 2 0 + Tronçon d'anguille à la tartare 1 10 + Carpe frite, la moitié 2 0 + Perche du Rhin à la Vallesfiche + Goujons frits 1 5 + Truite au bleu + Laitance de carpe + Moules à la poulette 1 5 + Homard 3 0 + Esturgeon 2 10 + + RÔTS. + + fr. s. + Bécasse + 3 Mauviettes + + + Poularde fine 9fr. la moitié 4 10 + Poulet Normand, 7fr. la moitié 3 10 + Poulet gras, 6fr. la moitié 3 0 + 1 Pigeon de volière 2 10 + Perdreau rouge + Perdreau gris 3 10 + Caneton de Rouen + Caille 2 0 + Agneau + Veau 1 0 + Mouton + Levreau + Grive + + + Obergine 1 10 + + ENTREMETS. + + Gelée de citron 1 10 + Concombres à la Béchamel 1 10 + Laitues a jus 1 10 + Petits pois à la Française ou à l'Anglaise 1 10 + Haricots verts à la poulette ou à l'Anglaise 1 10 + Haricots blancs à la maître-d'hôtel 0 18 + Fèves de marais 1 10 + Artichaud à la sauce 1 10 + Artichaud à la barigoul 1 10 + Artichaud frit 1 5 + Truffes au vin de Champagne + Truffes à l'Italienne + Croûte aux truffes + Navets + Carottes 0 18 + Epinards au jus 0 18 + Chicorée au jus 1 5 + Céleri au jus + Choux-fleurs à la sauce ou au parmesan 1 10 + Macédoine de légumes 1 5 + Pommes de terre à la maître-d'hôtel 0 18 + Champignons à la Bordelaise 1 4 + Croûtes aux champignons 1 10 + OEufs brouillés au jus 0 15 + OEufs au beurre noir 1 0 + Omelette aux fines herbes 0 15 + Omelette aux rognons ou au jambon 1 0 + Omelette au sucre ou aux confitures 1 5 + Omelette soufflée 1 10 + Beignets de pommes 1 10 + Charlotte de pommes 1 10 + Charlotte aux confitures 2 0 + Riz soufflé 1 10 + Soufflé aux pommes de terre 1 10 + Le petit pôt de crème 0 10 + Macaroni d'Italie au parmesan 1 5 + Fondu 1 4 + Plumpuding 1 10 + Eorevisses 2 0 + Salade 1 0 + + DESSERT. + + fr. s. + Cerneaux 0 15 + Raisins 1 5 + + + Fraises + Cerises + Groseilles + Framboises + Abricot 0 8 + Pêche 0 12 + Prunes 0 3 + Figue 0 5 + Amandes 0 15 + Noisettes 0 12 + Pommes à la Portugaise + Poires 0 8 + Pomme + Compote de verjus épépine + Compote d'épine-vinette + Compote de poires 1 4 + Compote de pommes + Compote de cerises 1 4 + Nix Vert 0 10 + Meringue 0 8 + Compote de groseilles 1 4 + Compote d'abricot 1 4 + Compote de pêche 1 4 + Confitures 1 4 + Cerises liquides 1 4 + Marmelade d'abricots 1 10 + Gelée de groseilles 1 4 + Biscuit à la crème 1 8 + Fromage à la crème 1 10 + Fromage de Roquefort 0 10 + Fromage de Viry 0 15 + Fromage de Gruyère 0 8 + Fromage de Neufehâtel 0 5 + Fromage de Clochestre ou Chester 0 10 + Cerises à l'eau-de-vie 0 12 + Prunes à l'eau-de-vie 0 12 + Abricots à l'eau-de-vie + Pêches à l'eau-de-vie + + VINS. + + fr. s. + Clarette 6 0 + Vin de Bourgogne 1 15 + Vin de Chablis 2 0 + Vin de Beaune 2 5 + Vin de Mulsaux 3 0 + Vin de Montrachet 3 10 + Vin de Pomard 3 10 + Vin de Volnay 3 10 + Vin de Nuits 3 10 + Vin de Grave 5 0 + Vin de Soterne 5 0 + Vin de Champagne mousseux 5 0 + Vin de champagne, mousseux 4 0 + Tisane de Champagne 3 10 + Vin de Rosé 5 0 + Vin de Silery rouge 6 0 + Vin de Silery blanc 6 0 + Vin de Pierri 5 0 + Vin d'Aï 5 0 + Vin de Porto 6 0 + Latour 6 0 + Vin de Côte-Rôtie 5 0 + + + Vin du Clos Vougeot de 88 7 4 + Clos St. Georges 6 0 + Vin de Pomarel 6 0 + Vin du Rhin 8 0 + Vin de Chambertin 5 0 + Vin de l'Hermitage rouge 5 0 + Vin de l'Hermitage blanc 6 0 + Vin delà Romanée 5 0 + Ronflante Conti 8 0 + Vin de Richebourg 5 0 + Chevalier montrachet 6 0 + Vin de Vône 5 0 + Vîn de Bordeaux de Ségur 5 0 + Vin de Bordeaux Lafite 5 0 + Vin de Saint Emilion 5 0 + Bierre forte ou porter 2 0 + Bierre 0 10 + + + VINS DE LIQUEURS. + + fr. s. + Vin de Chereste, demi-bouteille 4 0 + Vin de Malvoisie, _idem_ 4 0 + Madère sec _id._ 4 0 + Malaga 3 0 + Alicante _id._ 3 0 + Muscat 3 0 + Le petit verre 0 10 + Vermouth + Chipre + Calabre + Paille + Palme + Constance + Tokai + Le petit verre 1 0 + + LIQUEURS. + + Anisette d'Hollande 0 15 + Anisette de Bordeaux 0 12 + Eau-de-vie d'Andaye 0 10 + Fleur d'Orange 0 10 + Cuirasseau 0 10 + Rhum 0 10 + Kirschewaser 0 10 + Eau Cordiale de Coradon 0 15 + Liqueurs des Isles 0 15 + Marasquin 0 15 + Eau-de-vie de Dantzick 0 15 + Eau-de-vie de Coignac 0 8 + Casé, la tasse 12s. la demie 0 8 + Glace 0 15 + +One advantage, well deserving of notice, of this bill of fare with +the price annexed to each article, is, that, when you have made up +your mind as to what you wish to have for dinner, you have it in your +power, before you give the order, to ascertain the expense. But, +though you see the price of each dish, you see not the dish itself; +and when it comes on the table, you may, perhaps, be astonished to +find that a pompous, big-sounding name sometimes produces only a +scrap of scarcely three mouthfuls. It is the mountain in labour +delivered of a mouse. + +However, if you are not a man of extraordinary appetite, you may, for +the sum of nine or ten francs, appease your hunger, drink your bottle +of Champagne or Burgundy, and, besides, assist digestion by a dish of +coffee and a glass of liqueur. Should you like to partake of two +different sorts of wine, you may order them, and drink at pleasure of +both; if you do not reduce the contents below the moiety, you pay +only for the half bottle. A necessary piece of advice to you as a +stranger, is, that, while you are dispatching your first dish, you +should take care to order your second, and so on in progression to +the end of the chapter: otherwise, for want of this precaution, when +the company is very numerous, you may, probably, have to wait some +little time between the acts, before you are served. + +This is no trifling consideration, if you purpose, after dinner, to +visit one of the principal theatres: for, if a new or favourite piece +be announced, the house is full, long before the raising of the +curtain; and you not only find no room at the theatre to which you +first repair; but, in all probability, this disappointment will +follow you to every other for that evening. + +Nevertheless, ten or fifteen minutes are sufficient for the most +dainty or troublesome dish to undergo its final preparation, and in +that time you will have it smoking on the table. Those which admit of +being completely prepared beforehand, are in a constant state of +readiness, and require only to be set over the fire to be warmed. +Each cook has a distinct branch to attend to in the kitchen, and the +call of a particular waiter to answer, as each waiter has a distinct +number of tables, and the orders of particular guests to obey in the +dining-rooms. In spite of the confused noise arising from the gabble +of so many tongues, there being probably eighty or a hundred persons +calling for different articles, many of whom are hasty and impatient, +such is the habitual good order observed, that seldom does any +mistake occur; the louder the vociferations of the hungry guests, the +greater the diligence of the alert waiters. Should any article, when +served, happen not to suit your taste, it is taken back and changed +without the slightest murmur. + +The difference between the establishments of the fashionable +_restaurateurs_ before the revolution, and those in vogue at the +present day, is, that their profession presenting many candidates for +public favour, they are under the continual necessity of employing +every resource of art to attract customers, and secure a continuance +of them. The commodiousness and elegance of their rooms, the +savouriness of their cooking, the quality of their wines, the +promptitude of their attendants, all are minutely criticized; and, if +they study their own interest, they must neglect nothing to flatter +the eyes and palate. In fact, how do they know that some of their +epicurean guests may not have been of their own fraternity, and once +figured in a great French family as _chef de cuisine_? + +Of course, with all this increase of luxury, you must expect an +increase of expense: but if you do not now dine here at so reasonable +a rate as formerly, at least you are sumptuously served for your +money. If you wish to dine frugally, there are numbers of +_restaurateurs_, where you may be decently served with _potage_, +_bouilli_, an _entrée_, an _entremet_, bread and desert, for the +moderate sum of from twenty-six to thirty _sous_. The addresses of +these cheap eating-houses, if they are not put into your hand in the +street, will present themselves to your eye, at the corner of almost +every wall in Paris. Indeed, all things considered, I am of opinion +that the difference in the expense of a dinner at a _restaurateur's_ +at present, and what it was ten or eleven years ago, is not more than +in the due proportion of the increased price of provisions, +house-rent, and taxes. + +The difference the most worthy of remark in these rendezvous of good +cheer, unquestionably consists in the company who frequent them. In +former times, the dining-rooms of the fashionable _restaurateurs_ +were chiefly resorted to by young men of good character and +connexions, just entering into life, superannuated officers and +batchelors in easy circumstances, foreigners on their travels, &c. At +this day, these are, in a great measure, succeeded by stock-jobbers, +contractors, fortunate speculators, and professed gamblers. In +defiance of the old proverb, "_le ventre est le plus grand de tous +nos ennemis,_" guttling and guzzling is the rage of these upstarts. +It is by no means uncommon to see many of them begin their dinner by +swallowing six or seven dozen of oysters and a bottle of white wine, +by way of laying a foundation for a _potage en tortue_ and eight or +ten other rich dishes. Such are the modern parvenus, whose craving +appetites, in eating and drinking, as in every thing else, are not +easily satiated. + +It would be almost superfluous to mention, that where rich rogues +abound, luxurious courtesans are at no great distance, were it not +for the sake of remarking that the former often regale the latter at +the _restaurateurs_, especially at those houses which afford the +convenience of snug, little rooms, called _cabinets particuliers_. +Here, two persons, who have any secret affairs to settle, enjoy all +possible privacy; for even the waiter never has the imprudence to +enter without being called. In these asylums, Love arranges under his +laws many individuals not suspected of sacrificing at the shrine of +that wonder-working deity. Prudes, whose virtue is the universal +boast, and whose austerity drives thousands of beaux to despair, +sometimes make themselves amends for the reserve which they are +obliged to affect in public, by indulging in a private _tête-à-tête_ +in these mysterious recesses. In them too, young lovers frequently +interchange the first declarations of eternal affection; to them many +a husband owes the happiness of paternity; and without them the gay +wife might, perhaps, be at a loss to deceive her jealous Argus, and +find an opportunity of lending an attentive ear to the rapturous +addresses of her aspiring gallant. + +What establishment then can be more convenient than that of a +_restaurateur_? But you would be mistaken, were you to look for +_cabinets particuliers_ at every house of this denomination, Here, at +BEAUVILLIERS', for instance, you will find no such accommodation, +though if you dislike dining in public, you may have a private room +proportioned to the number of a respectable party: or, should you be +sitting at home, and just before the hour of dinner, two or three +friends call in unexpectedly, if you wish to enjoy their company in a +quiet, sociable manner, you have only to dispatch your _valet de +place_ to BEAUVILLIERS' or to the nearest _restaurateur_ of repute +for the bill of fare, and at the same time desire him to bring +table-linen, knives, silver forks, spoons, and all other necessary +appurtenances. While he is laying the cloth, you fix on your dinner, +and, in little more than a quarter of an hour, you have one or two +elegant courses, dressed in a capital style, set out on the table. As +for wine, if you find it cheaper, you can procure that article from +some respectable wine-merchant in the neighbourhood. In order to save +trouble, many single persons, and even small families now scarcely +ever cook at home; but either dine at a _restaurateur's_, or have +their dinners constantly furnished from one of these sources of +culinary perfection. + +But, while I am relating to you the advantages of these +establishments, time flies apace: 'tis six o'clock.--If you are not +disposed to drink more wine, let us have some coffee and our bill. +When you want to pay, you say: "_Garçon, la carte payante!_" The +waiter instantly flies to a person, appointed for that purpose, to +whom he dictates your reckoning. On consulting your stomach, should +you doubt what you have consumed, you have only to call in the aid of +your memory, and you will be perfectly satisfied that you have not +been charged with a single article too much or too little. + +Remark that portly man, so respectful in his demeanour. It is +BEAUVILLIERS, the master of the house: this is his most busy hour, +and he will now make a tour to inquire at the different tables, if +his guests are all served according to their wishes. He will then, +like an able general, take a central station, whence he can command a +view of all his dispositions. The person, apparently next in +consequence to himself, and who seems to have his mind absorbed in +other objects, is the butler: his thoughts are, with the wine under +his care, in the cellar. + +Observe the cleanly attention of the waiters, neatly habited in +close-bodied vests, with white aprons before them: watch the +quickness of their motions, and you will be convinced that no scouts +of a camp could be more _on the alert_. An establishment, so +extremely well conducted, excites admiration. Every spring of the +machine duly performs its office; and the regularity of the whole +might serve as a model for the administration of an extensive State. +Repair then, ye modern Machiavels, to N° 1243, _Rue de la Loi_; and, +while you are gratifying your palate, imbibe instruction from +BEAUVILLIERS. + +END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. + + + + + * * * * * + * * * * * + + + + + +PARIS + +AS IT WAS AND AS IT IS; + +OR + +A Sketch of the French Capital, + +ILLUSTRATIVE OF + +THE EFFECTS OF THE REVOLUTION, + +WITH RESPECT TO + +SCIENCES, +LITERATURE, +ARTS, +RELIGION, +EDUCATION, +MANNERS, +AND +AMUSEMENTS; + +COMPRISING ALSO + +A correct Account of the most remarkable National Establishments and +Public Buildings. + +In a Series of Letters, + +WRITTEN BY AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER, + +DURING THE YEARS 1801-2, + +TO A FRIEND IN LONDON. + + * * * * * + +Ipsâ varietate tentamus efficere, ut alia aliis, quædem fortasse +omnibus placeant. PLIN. Epist. + + * * * * * + +VOL. II + +LONDON + + + +A SKETCH OF PARIS, &c. &c. + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + +_Paris, December 23, 1801._ + +An establishment at once deserving of the attention of men of +feeling, particularly of those who, in cultivating literature, apply +themselves to the science of metaphysics and grammar; an +establishment extremely interesting to every one, the great +difficulties of which mankind had, repeatedly, in the course of ages, +endeavoured to encounter, and which had driven to despair all those +who had ventured to engage in the undertaking; an establishment, in a +word, which produces the happiest effects, and in a most wonderful +manner, is the + +NATIONAL INSTITUTION OF THE DEAF AND DUMB. + +To the most religious of philanthropists is France indebted for this +sublime discovery, and the Abbé SICARD, a pupil of the inventor; the +Abbé de l'Epée, has carried it to such a degree of perfection, that +it scarcely appears possible to make any further progress in so +useful an undertaking. And, in fact, what can be wanting to a species +of instruction the object of which is to establish between the deaf +and dumb, and the man who hears and speaks, a communication like that +established between all men by the knowledge and practice of the same +idiom; when the deaf and dumb man, by the help of the education given +him, succeeds in decomposing into phrases the longest period; into +simple propositions, the most complex phrase; into words, each +proposition; into simple words, words the most complex: and when he +distinguishes perfectly words derived from primitives; figurative +words from proper ones; and when, after having thus decomposed the +longest discourse, he recomposes it; when, in short, the deaf and +dumb man expresses all his ideas, all his thoughts, and all his +affections; when he answers, like men the best-informed, all +questions put to him, respecting what he knows through the nature of +his intelligence, and respecting what he has learned, either from +himself or from him who has enlightened his understanding? What wish +remains to be formed, when the deaf and dumb man is enabled to learn +by himself a foreign language, when he translates it, and writes it, +as well as those of whom it is the mother-tongue? + +Such is the phenomenon which the Institution of the deaf and dumb +presents to the astonishment of Europe, under the direction, or +rather under the regeneration of the successor of the celebrated Abbé +de l'Epée. His pupils realize every thing that I have just mentioned. +They write English and Italian as well as they do French. Nothing +equals the justness and precision of their definitions. + +Nor let it be imagined that they resemble birds repeating the tunes +they have learned. Never have they been taught the answer to a +question. Their answers are always the effect of their good logic, +and of the ideas of objects and of qualities of beings, acquired by a +mind which the Institutor has formed from the great art of +observation. + +This institution was far short of its present state of perfection at +the death of the celebrated inventor, which happened on the 23d of +December 1789. During the long career of their first father, the deaf +and dumb had been able to find means only to write, under the +dictation of signs, words whose import was scarcely known to them. +When endeavours were made to make them emerge from the confined +sphere of the first wants, not one of them knew how to express in +writing any thing but ideas of sense and wants of the first +necessity. The nature of the verb, the relations of tenses, that of +other words comprehended in the phrase, and which form the syntax of +languages, were utterly unknown to them. And, indeed, how could they +answer the most trifling question? Every thing in the construction of +a period was to them an enigma. + +It was not long before the successor of the inventor discovered the +defect of this instruction, which was purely mechanical and acquired +by rote. He thought he perceived this defect in the _concrete_ verb, +in which the deaf and dumb, seeing only a single word, were unable to +distinguish two ideas which are comprehended in it, that of +affirmation and that of quality. He thought he perceived also that +defect in the expression of the qualities, always presented, in all +languages, out of the subjects, and never in the noun which they +modify; and, by the help of a process no less simple than ingenious +and profound, he has made the deaf and dumb comprehend the most +arduous difficulty, the nature of abstraction; he has initiated them +in the art of generalizing ideas by presenting to them the adjective +in the noun, as the quality is in the object, and the quality +subsisting alone and out of the object, having no support but in the +mind, for him who considers it, and but in the abstract noun for him +who reads the expression of it. He has, in like manner, separated the +verb from the quality in concrete verbs, and communicated to the deaf +and dumb the knowledge of the true verb, which he has pointed out to +them in the termination of all the French verbs, by reattaching to +the subject, by a line agreed on, its verbal quality. This line he +has translated by the verb _to be_, the only verb recognized by +philosophic grammarians. + +These are the two foundations of this very extraordinary source of +instruction, and on which all the rest depend. The pronouns are +learned by nouns; the tenses of conjugation, by the three absolute +tenses of conjugation of all languages; and these, by this line, so +happily imagined, which is a sign of the present when it connects the +verbal quality and the subject, a sign of the past when it is +intersected, a sign of the future when it is only begun. + +All the conjugations are reduced to a single one, as are all the +verbs. The adverbs considered as adjectives, when they express the +manner, and as substitutes for a preposition and its government, when +they express time or place, &c. The preposition represented as a mean +of transmitting the influence of the word which precedes it to that +which follows it; the articles serving, as in the English language, +to determine the extent of a common noun. Such is a summary of the +grammatical system of the Institutor of the deaf and dumb. + +It is the metaphysical part, above all, which, in this institution, +is carried to such a degree of simplicity and clearness, that it is +within reach of understandings the most limited. And, indeed, one +ought not to be astonished at the rapid progress of the deaf and dumb +in the art of expressing their ideas and of communicating in writing +with every speaker, as persons absent communicate with each other by +similar means. In the space of eighteen months, a pupil begins to +give an account in writing of the actions of which he is rendered a +witness, and, in the space of five years, his education is complete. + +The objects in which the deaf and dumb are instructed, are Grammar, +the notions of Metaphysics and Logic, which the former renders +necessary, Religion, the Use of the Globes, Geography, Arithmetic, +general notions of History, ancient and modern, of Natural History, +of Arts and Trades, &c. + +These unfortunates, restored by communication to society, from which +Nature seemed to have intended to exclude them, are usefully +employed. One of their principal occupations is a knowledge of a +mechanical art. Masters in the most ordinary arts are established in +the house of the deaf and dumb, and every one there finds employment +in the art which best suits his inclination, his strength, and his +natural disposition. In this school, which is established at the +extremity of the _Faubourg St. Jacques_, is a printing-office, where +some are employed as compositors; others, as pressmen. In a +preparatory drawing-school they are taught the rudiments of painting, +engraving, and Mosaic, for the last of which there are two workshops. +There is also a person to teach engraving on fine grained stones, as +well as a joiner, a tailor, and a shoemaker. The garden, which is +large, is cultivated by the deaf and dumb. Almost every thing that is +used by them is made by themselves. They make their own bedsteads, +chairs, tables, benches, and clothes. The deaf and dumb females too +make their shirts, and the rest of their linen. + +Thus their time is so taken up that, with the exception of three +hours devoted to moral instruction, all the rest is employed in +manual labour. + +Such is this establishment, where the heart is agreeably affected at +the admirable spectacle which presents at once every thing that does +the most honour to human intelligence, in the efforts which it has +been necessary to make in order to overcome the obstacles opposed to +its development by the privation of the sense the most useful, and +that of the faculty the most essential to the communication of men +with one another, and the sight of the physical power employed in +seeking, in arts and trades, resources which render men independent. + +But to what degree are these unfortunates deaf, and why are they +dumb? + +It is well known that they are dumb because they are deaf, and they +are more or less deaf, when they are so only by accident, in +proportion as the auditory nerve is more or less braced, or more or +less relaxed. In various experiments made on sound, some have heard +sharp sounds, and not grave ones; others, on the contrary, have heard +grave sounds, and not sharp ones. + +All would learn, were it deemed expedient to teach them, the +mechanism of speech. But, besides that the sounds which they would +utter, would never be heard by themselves, and they would never be +conscious of having uttered them, those, sounds would be to those who +might listen to them infinitely disagreeable. Never could they be of +use, to them in conversing with us, and they would serve only to +counteract their instruction. + +Woe be to the deaf and dumb whom it should be proposed to instruct by +teaching them to speak! How, in fact, can, the development of the +understanding be assisted by teaching them a mechanism which has no +object or destination, when the thought already formed in the mind, +by the help of signs which fix the ideas, restores not the mechanism +of speech? + +Of this the Institutor has been fully sensible, and, although in his +public lessons, he explains all the efforts of the vocal instrument +or organ of the voice, and proves that he could, as well as any other +man, teach the deaf and dumb to make use of it, all his labour is +confined to exercising the instrument of thought, persuaded that +every thing will be obtained, when the deaf and dumb shall have +learned to arrange their ideas, and to think. + +It is then only that the Institutor gives lessons of analysis. But, +how brilliant are they! You think yourself transported into a class +of logic. The deaf and dumb man has ceased to be so. A contest begins +between him and his master. All the spectators are astonished; every +one wishes to retain what is written on both sides. It is a lesson +given to all present. + +Every one is invited to interrogate the deaf and dumb man, and he +answers to any person whatsoever, with a pen or pencil in his hand, +and in the same manner puts a question. He is asked, "What is Time?" +--"Time," says the dumb pupil, "is a portion of duration, the nature +of which is to be successive, to have commenced, and consequently to +have passed, and to be no more; to be present, and to be so through +necessity. Time," adds he, "is the fleeting or the future." As if in +the eyes of the dumb there was nothing real in Time but the future. +--"What is eternity?" says another to him--"It is a day without +yesterday, or to-morrow," replies the pupil.--"What is a sense?"--"It +is a vehicle for ideas."--"What is duration?"--"It is a line which +has no end, or a circle."--"What is happiness?"--"It is a pleasure +which never ceases."--"What is God?"--"The author of nature, the sun +of eternity."--"What is friendship?"--"The affection of the mind." +--"What is gratitude?"--"The memory of the heart." + +There are a thousand answers of this description, daily collected at +the lessons of the deaf and dumb by those who attend them, and which +attest the superiority of this kind of instruction over the common +methods. Thus, this institution is not only, in regard to beneficence +and humanity, deserving of the admiration of men of feeling, it +merits also the observation of men of superior understanding and true +philosophers, on account of the ingenious process employed here to +supply the place of the sense of seeing by that of hearing, and +speech by gesture and writing. + +I must not conceal from my countrymen, above all, that the +Institutor, in his public lessons, formally declares, that it is by +giving to the French language the simple form of ours, and +accommodating to it our syntax, he has been chiefly successful in +making the deaf and dumb understand that of their own country. I must +also add, that it is no more than a justice due to the Institutor to +say that, in the midst of the concourse of auditors, who press round +him, and who offer him the homage due to his genius and philanthropy, +he shews for all the English an honourable preference, acknowledging +to them, publicly, that this attention is a debt which he discharges +in return for the asylum that we granted to the unfortunate persons +of his profession, who, emigrating from their native land, came among +us to seek consolation, and found another home. + +Should ever this feeble sketch of so interesting an institution reach +SICARD, that religious philosopher, who belongs as much to every +country in the world as to France, the land which gave him birth, he +will find in it nothing more than the expression of the gratitude of +one Englishman; but he may promise himself that as soon as the +definitive treaty of peace shall have reopened a free intercourse +between the two nations, the sentiments contained in it will be +adopted by all the English who shall witness the extraordinary +success of his profoundly-meditated labours. They will all hasten to +pay their tribute of admiration to a man, whose most gratifying +reward consists in the benefits which he has had the happiness to +confer on that part of his fellow-creatures from whom Nature has +withheld her usual indulgence. + + + +LETTER XXXIX. + +_Paris, December 25, 1801._ + +Much has been said of the general tone of immorality now prevailing +in this capital, and so much, that it becomes necessary to look +beyond the surface, and examine whether morals be really more corrupt +here at the present day than before the revolution. To investigate +the subject through all its various branches and ramifications, would +lead me far beyond the limits of a letter. I shall therefore, as a +criterion, take a comparative view of the increase or decrease of the +different classes of women, who, either publicly or privately, +deviate from the paths of virtue. If we begin with the lowest rank, +and ascend, step by step, to the highest, we first meet with those +unfortunate creatures, known in France by the general designation of + +PUBLIC WOMEN. + +Their number in Paris, twelve years ago, was estimated at thirty +thousand; and if this should appear comparatively small, it must be +considered how many amorous connexions here occupy the attention of +thousands of men, and consequently tend to diminish the number of +_public_ women. + +The question is not to ascertain whether it be necessary, for the +tranquillity of private families, that there should be public women. +Who can fairly estimate the extent of the mischief which they +produce, or of that which they obviate? Who can accurately determine +the best means for bringing the good to overbalance the evil? But, +supposing the necessity of the measure, would it not be proper to +prevent, as much as possible, that complete mixture by which virtuous +females are often confounded with impures? + +Charlemagne, though himself a great admirer of the sex, was of that +opinion. He had, in vain, endeavoured to banish entirely from Paris +women of this description; by ordering that they should be condemned +to be publicly whipped, and that those who harboured them, should +carry them on their shoulders to the place where the sentence was put +in execution. But it was not a little singular that, while the +emperor was bent on reforming the morals of the frail fair, his two +daughters, the princesses Gifla and Rotrude, were indulging in all +the vicious foibles of their nature. + +Charlemagne, who then resided in the _Palais des Thermes_, situated +in the _Rue de la Harpe_, happened to rise one winter's morning much +earlier than usual. After walking for some time about his room, he +went to a window which looked into a little court belonging to the +palace. How great was his astonishment, when, by the twilight, he +perceived his second daughter, Rotrude, with Eginhard, his prime +minister, on her back, whom she was carrying through the deep snow +which had fallen in the night in order that the foot-steps of a man +might not be traced. + +When Lewis the _débonnaire_, his successor, ascended the throne, he +undertook to reform these two princesses, whose father's fondness had +prevented him from suffering them to marry. The new king began by +putting to death two noblemen who passed for their lovers, thinking +that this example would intimidate, and that they would find no more: +but it appears that he was mistaken, for they were never at a loss. +Nor is this to be wondered at, as these princesses to a taste for +literature joined a very lively imagination, and were extremely +affable, generous, and beneficent; on which account, says Father +Daniel, they died universally regretted. + +Experience having soon proved that public women are a necessary evil +in great cities, it was resolved to tolerate them. They therefore +began to form a separate body, became subject to taxes, and had their +statutes and judges. They were called _femmes amoureuses_, _filles +folles de leur corps_, and, on St. Magdalen's day, they were +accustomed to form annually a solemn procession. Particular streets +were assigned to them for their abode; and a house in each street, +for their commerce. + +A penitentiary asylum, called _les Filles Dieu_, was founded at Paris +in 1226, and continued for some years open for the reception of +_female sinners who had gone astray, and were reduced to beggary_. In +the time of St. Lewis, their number amounted to two hundred; but +becoming rich, they became dissolute, and in 1483, they were +succeeded by the reformed nuns of Fontevrault. + +When I was here in the year 1784, a great concourse of people daily +visited this convent in order to view the body of an ancient virgin +and martyr, said to be that of St. Victoria, which, having been +lately dug up near Rome, had just been sent to these nuns by the +Pope. This relic being exposed for some time to the veneration and +curiosity of the Parisian public, the devout wondered to see the fair +saint with a complexion quite fresh and rosy, after having been dead +for several centuries, and, in their opinion, this was a miracle +which incontestably proved her sanctity. The incredulous, who did not +see things in the same light, thought that the face was artificial, +and that it presented one of those holy frauds which have so +frequently furnished weapons to impiety. But they were partly +mistaken: the nuns had thought proper to cover the face of the saint +with a mask, and to clothe her from head to foot, in order to skreen +from the eyes of the public the hideous spectacle of a skeleton. + +In 1420, Lewis VIII, with a view of distinguishing impures from +modest women, forbade the former to wear golden girdles, then in +fashion. This prohibition was vain, and the virtuous part of the sex +consoled themselves by the testimony of their conscience, whence the +old proverb: "_Bonne rénommée vaut mieux que ceinture dorée_." + +Another establishment, first called _Les Filles pénitentes ou +repenties_, and afterwards _Filles de St. Magloire_, was instituted +in 1497 by a Cordelier, and had the same destination. He preached +against libertinism, and with such success, that two hundred +dissolute women were converted by his fervent eloquence. The friar +admitted them into his congregation, which was sanctioned by the +Pope. Its statutes, which were drawn up by the Bishop of Paris, are +not a little curious. Among other things, it was established, that +"none should be received but women who had led a dissolute life, and +that, in order to ascertain the fact, they should be examined by +matrons, who should swear on the Holy Evangelists to make a faithful +report." + +There can be no doubt that women were well taken care of in this +house, since it was supposed that virtue even might assume the mask +of vice to obtain admission. The fact is singular. "To prevent girls +from prostituting themselves in order to be received, those who shall +have been once examined and refused, shall be excluded for ever. + +"Besides, the candidates shall be obliged to swear, under penalty of +their eternal damnation, in presence of their confessor and six nuns, +that they did not prostitute themselves with a view of entering into +this congregation; and in order that women of bad character may not +wait too long before they become converted, in the hope that the door +will always be open to them, none will be received above the age of +thirty." + +This community, for some years, continued tolerably numerous; but its +destination had been changed long before the suppression of convents, +which took place in the early part of the revolution. All the places +of public prostitution in Paris, after having been tolerated upwards +of four hundred years, were abolished by a decree of the States +General, held at Orleans in 1560. The number of women of the town, +however, was far from being diminished, though their profession was +no longer considered as a trade; and as they were prohibited from +being any where, that is, in any fixed place, they were compelled to +spread themselves every where. + +At the present day, the number of these women in Paris is computed at +twenty-five thousand: they are taken up as formerly, in order to be +sent into infirmaries, whence they, generally, come out only to +return to their former habits. Twelve years ago, those apprehended +underwent a public examination once a month, and were commonly +sentenced to a confinement, more or less long, according to the +pleasure of the minister of the police. The examination of them +became a matter of amusement for persons of not over-delicate +feelings. The hardened females, neither respecting the judge not the +audience, impudently repeated the language and gestures of their +traffic. The judge added a fortnight's imprisonment for every insult, +and the most abandoned were confined only a few months longer in the +_Salpétrière_. + +Endeavours have since been made to improve the internal regulation of +this and similar houses of correction; but, as far as my information +goes, with little success. For want of separating, from the beginning +of their confinement, the most debauched from those whom a moment of +distress or error has thrown into these scenes of depravity, the +contamination of bad example rapidly spreads, and those who enter +dissolute, frequently come out thievish; while all timidity is +banished from the mind of the more diffident. Besides, it is not +always the most culpable who fall into the hands of the police, the +more cunning and experienced, by contriving to come to terms with its +agents, employed on these errands, generally escape; and thus the +object in view is entirely defeated. + +On their arrival at the _Salpétrière_, the healthy are separated from +the diseased; and the latter are sent to _Bicêtre_, where they either +find a cure or death. Your imagination will supply the finishing +strokes of this frightful picture.--These unfortunate victims of +indigence or of the seduction of man, are deserving of compassion. +With all their vices, they have, after all, one less than many of +their sex who pride themselves on chastity, without really possessing +it; that is, hypocrisy. As they shew themselves to be what they +really are, they cannot make the secret mischief which a detected +prude not unfrequently occasions under the deceitful mask of modesty. +Degraded in their own eyes, and being no longer able to reign through +the graces of virtue, they fall into the opposite extreme, and +display all the audaciousness of vice. + +The next class we come to is that which was almost honoured by the +Greeks, and tolerated by the Romans, under the denomination of + +COURTESANS. + +By courtesans, I mean those ladies who, decked out in all the luxury +of dress, if not covered with diamonds, put up their favours to the +highest bidder, without having either more beauty or accomplishments, +perhaps, than the distressed female who sells hers at the lowest +price. But caprice, good fortune, intrigue, or artifice, sometimes +occasions an enormous distance between women who have the same views. + +If the ancients made great sacrifices for the Phrynes, the Laïses, or +the Aspasias of the day, among the moderns, no nation has, in that +respect, surpassed the French. Every one has heard of the luxurious +extravagance of Mademoiselle Deschamps, the cushion of whose +_chaise-percée_, was trimmed with point-lace of very considerable +value, and the harness of whose carriage was studded with paste, in +imitation of diamonds. This woman, however, lived to repent of her +folly; and if she did not literally die in a poorhouse, she at least +ended her days in wretchedness. + +Before the revolution, of all the gay ladies in Paris, Madame +Grandval displayed the greatest luxury in her equipage; and +Mademoiselle D'Hervieux, in her house. I knew them both. The former I +have seen at Longchamp, as well as at the annual review of the king's +household troops, in a splendid coach, as fine as that of any Lord +Mayor, drawn by a set of eight English grays, which cost a hundred +and twenty guineas a horse. She sat, like a queen, adorned with a +profusion of jewels; and facing her was a _dame de compagnie_, +representing a lady of the bedchamber. Behind the carriage, stood no +less than three tall footmen, besides a chasseur, in the style of +that of the Duke of Gloucester, in rich liveries, with swords, canes, +and bags. + +As for the house of Mademoiselle D'Hervieux, it was every thing that +oriental luxury, combined with French taste, could unite on a small +scale. Although of very low origin, and by no means gifted with a +handsome person, this lady, after having, rather late in life, +obtained an introduction on the opera-stage as a common _figurante_, +contrived to insinuate herself into the good graces of some rich +protectors. On the _Chaussée d'Antin_, they built for her this palace +in miniature, which, twelve years ago, was the object of universal +admiration, and, in fact, was visited by strangers as one of the +curiosities of Paris. + +At the present day, one neither sees nor hears of such favourites of +fortune; and, for want of subjects to paint under this head, I must +proceed to those of the next rank, who are styled + +KEPT WOMEN. + +What distinctions, what shades, what different names to express +almost one and the same thing! From the haughty fair in a brilliant +equipage, figuring, like a favourite Sultana, with "all the pride, +pomp, and circumstance" of the toilet, down to the hunger-pinched +female, who stands shivering in the evening at the corner of a +street, what gradations in the same profession! + +Before the revolution, there were reckoned in Paris eight or ten +thousand women to whom the rich nobility or financiers allowed from a +thousand pounds a year upwards to an almost incredible amount. Some +of these ladies have ruined a whole family in the short space of six +months; and, having nothing left at the year's end, were then under +the necessity of parting with their diamonds for a subsistence. +Although many of them are far inferior in opulence to the courtesans, +they are less depraved, and, consequently, superior to them in +estimation. They have a lover, who pays, and from whom they, in +general, get all they can, at the same time turning him into +ridicule, and another whom, in their turn, they pay, and for whom +they commit a thousand follies. + +These women used to have no medium in their attachments; they were +either quite insensible to the soft passion, or loved almost to +distraction. On the wane, they had the rage for marrying, and many of +them found men who, preferring fortune to honour, disgraced +themselves by such alliances. Some of these ladies, if handsome, were +not unfrequently taken by a man of fortune, and kept from mere +ostentation, just as he would sport a superlatively elegant carriage, +or ride a very capital horse; others were maintained from caprice, +which, like Achilles's spear, carried with it its own antidote; and +then, of course, they passed into the hands of different keepers. It +cannot be denied, however that a few of these connexions were founded +on attachment; and when the woman, who was the object of it, was +possessed of understanding, she assumed the manners and deportment of +a wife. Indeed, now and then a keeper adopted the style of oriental +gallantry. + +Beaujon, the banker of the court, who had amassed an immense fortune, +indulged himself in his old age, and, till his death, in a society +composed of pretty women, some of whom belonged to what was then +termed good families, among which he had diffused his presents. In an +elegant habitation, called _la Chartreuse_, which he erected in the +_Faubourg du Roule_, as a place of occasional retirement, was a most +curious apartment, representing a bower, in the midst of which was +placed a bedstead in imitation of a basket of flowers: four trees, +whose verdant foliage extended over part of the ceiling, which was +painted as a sky, seemed to shade this basket, and supported drapery, +suspended to their branches. This was M. Beaujon's Temple of Venus. + +The late Prince of Soubise, for some years, constantly kept ten or a +dozen ladies. The only intercourse he had with them, was to breakfast +or chat with them twice or thrice a month, and latterly he maintained +several old stagers, in this manner, from motives of benevolence. At +the end of the month, all these ladies came in their carriages at a +fixed hour, in a string, as it were, one after the other. The steward +had their money ready; they afterwards, one by one, entered a very +spacious room furnished with large closets, filled with silks, +muslins, laces, ribbands, &c. The prince distributed presents to +each, according to her age and taste: thus ended a visit of mere +ceremony, interspersed with a few words of general gallantry. + +Such was the style in which many women were kept by men of fortune +under the old _régime_. At the present day, if we except twenty or +thirty perhaps, it would be no easy matter to discover any women +supported in a style of elegance in Paris, and the lot of these seems +scarcely secured but from month to month. The reason of this mystery +is, that the modern Croesuses having mostly acquired their riches in +a clandestine manner, they take every possible precaution to prevent +the reports in circulation concerning their ill-gotten pelf from +being confirmed by a display of luxury in their _chères amies_. On +this account, many a matrimonial connexion, I am told, is formed +between them and women of equivocal character, on the principle, that +a man is better able to check the extravagant excesses of his wife +than those of his mistress. + +We now arrive at that class of females who move in a sphere of life +the best calculated for making conquests. I mean + +OPERA-DANCERS. + +When a spectator, whose eyes are fascinated by the illusion of scenic +decorations, contemplates those beauties whose voluptuous postures, +under the form of Calypso, Eucharis, Delphis, &c. awaken desire in +the mind of youth, and even of persons of maturer years, he forgets +that the divinities before him are women, who not unfrequently lavish +their favours on the common herd of mortals. His imagination lends to +them a thousand secret charms which they possess not; and he cannot +be persuaded that they are not tremblingly alive to a passion which +they express with so much apparent feeling. It is in their arms only +that he discovers his error. To arrive at this point, many an +Englishman has sacrificed thousands of pounds; while his faithless +fair has been indulging in all the wantonness of her disposition, +perhaps, with some obscure Frenchman among the long train of her +humble admirers. Hence the significant appellation of _Milord +Pot-au-feu_, given to one who supports a woman whose favours +another enjoys _gratis_. + +Such an opera-dancer used formerly to exhibit herself in a blaze of +jewels in the lobby, and according to the style in which she figured, +did she obtain respect from her companions. The interval between them +was proportioned to the degree of opulence which the one enjoyed over +the other, so that the richer scarcely appeared to belong to the same +profession as the poorer. To the former, every shopkeeper became a +candidate for custom; presents were heaped on presents, and gold was +showered on her in such a manner that she might, for the time, almost +have fancied herself a second Danaë. + +In the midst of this good fortune, perhaps, an obscure rival suddenly +started into fashion. She then was eclipsed by her whom, a few days +before, she disdained. Instead of a succession of visiters, her house +was deserted; and, at the expiration of the year, the proud fair, +awakened from her golden dream by the clamours of her importunate +creditors, found herself without one friend to rescue her valuables +from their rapacious gripe. + +No wonder, then, that this order of things, (excepting the reverse by +which it was sometimes followed) was very agreeable to the great +majority of these capering beauties, and, doubtless, they wished its +duration. For, among the reports of the _secret_ police, maintained +by Lewis XVI, in 1792, it appears by a letter addressed to M. de +Caylus, and found among the King's papers in the palace of the +_Tuileries_, that most of the female opera-dancers were staunch +_aristocrates_; but that democracy triumphed among the women who sang +at that theatre. This little anecdote shews how far curiosity was +then stretched to ascertain what is called public opinion; and I have +no doubt that the result confirmed the correctness of the statement. + +The opera-stage was certainly never so rich as it now is in +first-rate female dancers, yet the frail part of these beauties were +never so deficient, perhaps, in wealthy admirers. Proceeding to the +next order of meretricious fair, we meet with that numerous one +denominated + +GRISETTES. + +This is the name applied to those young girls who, being obliged to +subsist by their labour, chiefly fill the shops of milliners, +mantua-makers, and sellers of ready-made linen, &c. + +The rank which ought to be assigned to them, I think, is between +opera-dancers and demireps. You may smile at the distinction; but, as +Mr. Tickle justly observes, in the Spectator, we should vary our +appellations of these fair criminals, according to circumstances. +"Those who offend only against themselves," says he, "and are not a +scandal to society; but, out of deference to the sober part of the +world, have so much good left in them as to be ashamed, must not be +comprehended in the common word due to the worst of women. Regard is +to be had to their situation when they fell, to the uneasy perplexity +in which they lived under senseless and severe parents, to the +importunity of poverty, to the violence of a passion in its beginning +well-grounded, to all the alleviations which make unhappy women +resign the characteristic of their sex, modesty. To do otherwise than +thus," adds he, "would be to act like a pedantic Stoic, who thinks +all crimes alike, and not as an impartial spectator, who views them +with all the circumstances that diminish or enhance the guilt." + +If we measure them by this standard, _grisettes_ appear entitled to +be classed immediately below demireps; for, as Lear says of his +daughter, + + "-------- Not to be the worst + Stands in some rank of praise." + +Their principal merit consists in their conducting themselves with a +certain degree of decorum and reserve, and in being susceptible of +attachment. Born in an humble sphere, they are accustomed from their +infancy to gain their livelihood by their industry. Like young birds +that feel the power of using their wings, they fly from the +parent-nest at the age of sixteen; and, hiring a room for themselves, +they live according to their means and fancy. + +More fortunate in their indigence than the daughters of petty +tradesmen, they overleap the limits of restraint, while their charms +are in full lustre; and sometimes their happiness arises from being +born in poverty. In marrying an artisan of their own class, they see +nothing but distress and servitude, which are by no means compatible +with their spirit of independence. Vanity becomes their guide, and is +as bad a guide as distress; for it prompts them to add the resources +of their youth and person to those of their needle. This double +temptation is too strong for their weak virtue. They therefore seek a +friend to console them on Sundays for the _ennui_ of the remainder of +the week, which must needs seem long, when they are sitting close at +work from morning to night. In general, they are more faithful than +any of the other classes of the frail part of the sex, and may be +supported at little expense, and without scandal. + +It would require almost the powers of the inquisition to ascertain +whether _grisettes_ have increased or diminished since the +revolution; but their number is, and always has been, immense in +Paris. An object highly deserving of the attention of the French +legislators would be to find a remedy for this evil. A mortal blow +should, no doubt, be struck at the luxury of the toilet; as the rage +for dress has, I am convinced, undermined the virtue of as many women +as the vile stratagems of all the Lotharios in being. Leaving these +matters to some modern Lycurgus, I shall end my letter. But, in my +eager haste to close it, I must not omit a class, which has increased +in a proportion equal to the decrease of kept women. As they have no +precise designation in France, I shall take the liberty of applying +to them, that of + +DEMIREPS. + +Without having the shameless effrontery of vice, these ladies have +not the austere rigour of virtue. Seeing that professed courtesans +insnared the most promising youths, and snatched them from other +women, this description of females sprang up, in a manner, to dispute +with them, under the rose, the advantages which the others derived +from their traffic. If they have not the same boldness in their +carriage, their looks bespeak almost as much complaisance. They +declaim loudly against women of all the classes before-mentioned, for +the best possible reason; because these are their more dangerous +rivals. It is certain that a virtuous woman cannot hold the breach of +chastity too much in abhorrence, but every Lucretia ought to have "a +tear for pity," especially towards the fallen part of her sex. +Nothing can be more disgusting than to hear women, who are known to +have transgressed, forget their own frailties, and rail against the +more unguarded, and, consequently, more artless part of womankind, +without mercy or justice. + +Demireps, in general, profess the greatest disinterestedness in their +connexions; but if they receive no money at the moment of granting +their favours, they accept trinkets and other presents which have +some value. It is not at all uncommon for a man to think that he has +a _bonne fortune_, when he finds himself on terms of intimacy with +such a woman. Enraptured at his success, he repeats his visits, till +one day he surprises his belle, overwhelmed by despair. He eagerly +inquires the cause. After much entreaty, she informs him that she has +had ill luck at play, and, with anguish in her looks, laments that +she is ruined beyond redemption. The too credulous admirer can do no +less than accommodate her secretly with a sufficient sum to prevent +her from being taken to task by her husband; and thus the +disinterested lady proves, in the end, a greater drain to the +gallant's pocket than the most mercenary courtesan. + +The man who would wish to recommend himself to their favour, scarcely +need take any further trouble than to change some of their trinkets, +which are no longer in fashion. Sometimes he may meet with a husband, +who, conniving at his wife's infidelity, will shew him every mark of +attention. In that case, the lover is quite at home, and his presence +being equally agreeable to the obliging husband as to the kind wife, +when they are all three assembled, they seem to fit their several +places like the three sides of an equilateral triangle. + +Since the revolution, the increase of demireps is said to have +diminished most sensibly the class of what are termed kept women. +Indeed, it is affirmed by some, that the number of the former has, +within these few years, multiplied in a tenfold proportion. Others +again maintain that it is no greater than it was formerly; because, +say they, the state of society in Paris is not near so favourable to +amorous intrigue as that which existed under the old _régime_. Riches +being more equally divided, few persons, comparatively speaking, are +now sufficiently affluent to entertain large parties, and give routs, +balls, and suppers, where a numerous assemblage afforded, to those +inclined to dissipation, every opportunity of cultivating an intimate +acquaintance. I must confess that these reasons, assigned by some +worthy Frenchmen whose opinions I respect, do not altogether accord +with the result of my observation; and, without taking on myself to +controvert them, I am persuaded that truth will bear me out in +asserting, that, if the morals of that class of society in which I +have chiefly mixed during the different periods of my stay in France, +are not deteriorated, they are certainly not improved since I last +visited Paris. + +After having painted, in regular succession, and with colours +occasionally borrowed, the general portrait of all those classes of +females whose likeness every English traveller has, no doubt, met +with, I must find a little corner of my canvass for a small number of +women who might, probably, be sought in vain out of Paris. However +great a recommendation their rarity may be in the eyes of some, still +it is not the only quality that points them out to the notice of the +impartial observer. + +When a man has come to his senses respecting the sex, or, according +to the vulgar adage, sown his wild oats, he naturally seeks a sincere +friend to whom he can unbosom himself with confidence. Experience +warns him that few men are to be trusted; and unless he has had the +good fortune to meet with a virtuous wife, blessed with an engaging +temper and a good understanding, he must even, like Junius, be the +depository of his own secret. In Paris, however, he may find one of +those scarce females, who, being accustomed early in life to +reflection, possess the firm mind of a man, combined with the quick +sensibility of a woman. + +When the illusion of the first passions is dissipated, their reason +becomes unclouded. Renouncing every narrow thought, they raise +themselves to the knowledge of the most weighty affairs, and, by an +active observation of mankind, are accustomed to discriminate every +shade of character. Hence their penetration is great; and they are +capable of giving good advice on important occasions. In short, a +French woman at thirty makes an excellent friend, and, attaching +herself to the man she esteems, thinks no sacrifice too great for the +advancement of his interest, or the security of his happiness or +reputation. + +The friendship between man and woman is a thousand times more sweet +than that between one man and another. A woman's friendship is +active, vigilant, and at the same time tender. French women cherish +more sincerely their old friends than their young lovers. They may +perchance deceive the lover, but never the friend; the latter they +consider as a sacred being. Whence, no doubt, Rousseau (who has not +spared the Parisian ladies) has been led to say: "I would never have +sought in Paris a wife, still less a mistress; but I would willingly +have made there a female friend; and this treasure would, perhaps, +have consoled me for not finding the other two." + + + +LETTER XL. + +_Paris, December 27, 1801._ + +About thirty years ago, a public insult offered to human nature, in +the person of some unfortunate blind men belonging to the Hospital of +the _Quinze-vingts_, and repeated daily for the space of two months, +suggested to a spectator the idea of avenging it in a manner worthy +of a true philanthropist. + +In a coffeehouse of the _Foire St. Ovide_, in Paris, were placed ten +blind beggars, muffled up in grotesque dresses and long pointed caps, +with large paste-board spectacles on their nose, without glass: music +and lights were set before them; and one of them was characterized as +Midas, with the ears of an ass, and the addition of a peacock's tail, +spread behind him. He sang, while all the others played the same +parts of a monotonous tune, without either taste or measure; and the +unfeeling public turned into derision the unfortunate actors in this +infamous scene. This happened in September 1771. + +From that moment, M. VALENTIN HAÜY, brother to the celebrated +mineralogist of that name, animated by a noble enthusiasm, conceived +the project of teaching the blind to write and read, and of placing +in their hands books and music, printed by themselves. After +employing twelve years in maturing it, at length, in 1784, he +ventured to carry it into execution. To so laudable and benevolent a +purpose, he devoted all his fortune; and hence originated the +establishment known in Paris, since the year 1791, by the title of + +NATIONAL INSTITUTION OF THE INDUSTRIOUS BLIND. + +Presently M. HAÜY found his plan seconded by the Philanthropic +Society, and the benefactions and advice of several persons, no less +distinguished for understanding than benevolence, contributed not a +little to encourage his zeal in its prosecution. The following were +the primary objects of the establishment. + +1. To withdraw the blind from the dangerous paths of idleness. + +2. To procure them certain means of subsistence by the execution of +pleasant and easy labours. + +3. To restore them to society. + +4. To console them for their misfortune. + +To rescue the blind from idleness is, unquestionably, of itself a +great blessing, as it preserves them from an infinite number of +vices, and consequently must be approved by the moralist. But another +advantage, equally deserving of approbation, is to cause them to +find, in their labour, an infallible resource against indigence. +Previously to the execution of this beneficent plan, a young blind +child, born of poor parents, was reduced to the melancholy and +humiliating necessity of standing in a public thoroughfare, exposed +to all the inclemency of the weather, to beg its bread, and, at +present, it has no occasion to owe its livelihood but to its own +labour. + +The children that M. HAÜY had to educate were, in general, of the +class of artisans, though a few belonged to that of artists and men +of science. Some were born with a little aptitude for mechanical +labours, others with a great disposition for the arts and sciences. +These considerations naturally pointed out to him his plan of +instruction, which is divided into four branches. + +I. Handicraft work, viz. Spinning, knitting, making of cord, fringe, +trimming, ribband, pasteboard, &c. + +Task-masters direct the execution of these works, which are as easy +to the blind as to the clear-sighted. + +II. Education, viz. Reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, +literature, history, foreign languages, arts and sciences. + +This education of blind children is carried on by means of +raised-work or relief, and is intrusted to other blind people +whose education is completed. The latter not only instruct their +unfortunate fellow-sufferers, but also the clear-sighted. + +The sense of feeling is so refined in blind children, that a pupil, a +little informed, becomes perfectly acquainted with maps by handling +them: he points out with his finger countries and towns; if a map is +presented to him upside down, he places it in a proper manner, and if +one map is substituted to another, he instantly discovers the +deception. + +III. Printing, viz. In black characters, for the public. In relief, +for themselves. + +In black, they have printed no inconsiderable number of voluminous +works, for the use of the public. In relief, they have printed for +themselves a catechism, a grammar, and a great quantity of music. No +where but at this institution, and at the MUSEUM OF THE BLIND, of +which I shall presently speak, is there to be found an office for +printing in relief. + +IV. Music, viz. Vocal and instrumental, and composition. + +The music of the blind pupils has always been employed with the +greatest success in public festivals, playhouses, balls, +coffeehouses, and many public and private assemblies. It is +impossible to form an adequate idea of the decided taste of the blind +for music, and of the consolation which it affords them. Deprived of +their eyes, they seem to become all ears. + +No sooner had M. HAÜY rendered public his first essays, than the +learned, and especially the members of the _ci-devant_ Academy of +Sciences, stamped them with their approbation, as appears by a Report +signed by some of the most distinguished of that body, such as +DESMARETS, LA ROCHEFOUCAULT, CONDORCET, &c. Professors of the arts, +cultivated by his pupils, such as printing, music, &c. were equally +eager to acknowledge to what an astonishing degree the blind had +succeeded in appropriating to themselves the enjoyment of those arts. +Three of the first master-printers in Paris certified the +intelligence and skill of the blind pupils; and a concert was +executed by them to the no small satisfaction of the _ci-devant_ +Academy of Music. + +Persons of every degree now wished to be spectators of the result of +these essays. Lewis XVI sent for the Industrious Blind, their +machinery, &c. to Versailles; he visited them when at work, and +inspected their several performances, attended by all the royal +family, princes of the blood, ministers, ambassadors, &c. After +having procured the inhabitants of that town this interesting sight +for several successive days, he rewarded the blind with marks of his +favour and encouragement. + +The government, which succeeded to the monarchy, shewed no less +interest in the progress of M. HAÜY'S undertaking. The different +legislatures, which have successively governed France, promoted it by +various decrees. In proportion as the number of the pupils increased, +so did the resources of their industrious activity. By a law which +was solicited by M. HAÜY, and which excited and kept up a singular +emulation among his pupils, the blind, in preference to the +clear-sighted of equal merit, were admitted to the various secondary +employments of the establishment. From that period, the first blind +pupils, formed by M. HAÜY, being promoted to the functions of +teachers, transmitted with success to young blind children, sent for +instruction, from different parts of the Republic, the first elements +of education given them by himself and assistants. By virtue of this +law, the office of house-steward was intrusted to LESUEUR, a blind +pupil who had already discharged it with credit at a banker's. It +will scarcely be believed, no doubt, that a blind man can be a +cashier, receive money coming in, either from the public treasury, or +from the industry of his brothers in misfortune; make of it a +suitable division; buy commodities necessary for life and clothing; +introduce the strictest economy into his disbursements; by means of +his savings, procure the establishment the implements and machinery +of the Industrious Blind; in times of real scarcity, make use of the +productions of the labour of the grown blind, to maintain the young +blind pupils, and that, with all these concerns on his hands, his +accounts should always be ready for inspection. + +M. HAÜY informs me that out of fifteen or twenty of his old pupils, +whom he has connected by the ties of marriage, ten or twelve are +fathers; and that they have children more fortunate than the authors +of their days, since the enjoy the benefit of sight. But the most +interesting part of these connexions is, that the blind father (on +the principle of the plan before-stated) teaches his clear-sighted +son reading, arithmetic, music, and every thing that it is possible +to teach without the help of the eyes. + +Raised work, or relief, is the simple and general process by means of +which M. HAÜY forms his pupils, and there are a great number of them +whose abilities would excite the pride of many a clear-sighted +person. For instance, in addition to the before-mentioned LESUEUR, +who is an excellent geographer and a good mathematician, might be +quoted HUARD, a man of erudition and a correct printer; likewise +CAILLAT, a capital performer on the violin, and a celebrated +composer. For vocal and instrumental music, printing, and handicraft +work, there might be noticed thirty or forty, as well as ten or +twelve for knowledge relating to the sciences. + +It may not be improper to observe, that M. HAÜY always first puts a +frame into the hands of his pupils, and that he has made a law, to +which he scrupulously adheres, not to lean too much towards the +_agreeable_ arts, unless the pupil manifest for them a peculiar +disposition. + +Hence you may form an idea of the proficiency which these +unfortunates attain under the auspices of the benevolent M. HAÜY. In +the compass of a letter, or even of several letters, it is impossible +to develope proceedings which it is more easy to put into execution +than to describe. The process alone of printing in relief would +require a vast number of pages, and some plates, in order to make it +perfectly intelligible; but the greater part of what composes these +branches of instruction is amply detailed in a work, which I shall +communicate to you, entitled "_Essai sur l'Éducation des Aveugles_, +_par_ Valentin Haüy, _auteur de la manière de les instruire_," +printed under the sanction of the _ci-devant_ Academy of Sciences. + +By a law on public education, passed in July 1796, several +establishments were to be founded in favour of blind children, in the +principal towns of the Republic; but, in consequence of the political +changes which have since occurred in the government, it has never +been carried into execution. + +In October, 1800, the Consuls decreed that the _National Institution +of the Industrious Blind_ should be united to the Hospital of the +_Quinze-vingts_, together with the soldiers who had lost their sight +in Egypt. M. HAÜY is shortly to be honoured by a pension, as a reward +for the services which he has bestowed on those afflicted with +blindness. At the present moment, he is engaged in founding a second +establishment, of a similar nature, which is to take the name of + +MUSEUM OF THE BLIND. + +On my asking M. HAÜY, whether he would not retire, as it was intended +he should, on his pension? "This favour of the government," replied +he, "I consider as a fresh obligation, silently imposed on me, to +continue to be of service to the blind. The first establishment, +supported and paid by the nation, belonged to the poor. In forming +the second," added he, "I have yielded to the wishes of parents in +easy circumstances, who were desirous of giving to their blind +children a liberal education." + +I have already mentioned, that, agreeably to M. HAÜY'S plan, the +blind instruct the clear-sighted; and in this Museum, which is +situated _Rue Sainte Avoie, Hôtel de Mêsme, No. 19_, the former are +to be seen directing a class of fifty youths, whom they instruct in +every branch before-mentioned, writing excepted. It is also in +contemplation to teach a blind pupil _pasigraphy_, or universal +language, invented by DEMAIMIEUX. + +M. HAÜY details to strangers every part of his plan with the most +patient and obliging attention. When he had concluded, I could not +avoid expressing a wish that the art of instructing the blind in the +fullest extent might be speedily introduced among all nations. "After +having paid to my country," rejoined M. HAÜY, "the merited homage of +my invention, my anxiety to contribute to the relief of the +afflicted, wherever they may be found, gives birth to the desire of +propagating, as much as possible, an institution which enlightened +men and philanthropists have been pleased to recommend to the +attention of foreigners and to the esteem of my countrymen, as may be +seen by consulting different literary publications from the year 1785 +down to the present time, particularly the new French Encyclopædia, +at the article _Aveugle_." + +"I should," added he, "perform a task very agreeable to my feelings +in concurring, by my advice and knowledge, to lay in England the +foundation of an establishment of a description similar to either of +those which I have founded in Paris. One of my pupils in the art of +instructing the blind, M. GRANCHER, a member of several learned +societies in France, and possessed of my means and method, would +voluntarily devote his talents and experience to the success of such +an undertaking, to which he is himself strongly attached through +philanthropy and zeal for my reputation."--"I am persuaded," +interrupted I, "that were the advantages of such an establishment +made public in England, it would receive the countenance and support +of every friend of human nature."--"It is an unquestionable fact," +concluded M. Haüy, "that an institution of fifty blind, well +conducted, ought, by their labour, to produce more than would defray +its expenses. I have already even tried with success to apply to the +English tongue my method of reading, which is so contrived for the +French language, that I need not give more than two or three lessons +to a blind child, in order to enable him to teach himself to read, +without the further help of any master." + + + +LETTER XLI. + +_Paris, December 29, 1801._ + +Such a crowd of different objects present themselves to my mind, +whenever I sit down to write to you, that, frequently as I have +visited the Grand French Opera since my arrival here, I have been +hesitating whether I should make it the subject of this letter. +However, as it is one of the first objects of attraction to a +stranger, and the first in a theatrical point of view, I think you +cannot be too soon introduced to a knowledge of its allurements. Let +us then pass in review the + +THÉÂTRE DES ARTS ET DE LA REPUBLIQUE.[1] + +Previously to the revolution, the French opera-house, under the name +of _Académie Royale de Musique_, was situated on the Boulevard, near +the _Porte St. Martin_. Except the façade, which has been admired, +there was nothing very remarkable in the construction of this +theatre, but the dispatch with which it was executed. + +The old opera-house in the _Palais Royal_ having been burnt down on +the 8th of June 1781, M. LENOIR, the architect, built a new one in +the short space of sixty days, and, within a fortnight after, it was +decorated and opened. Had an hospital been reduced to ashes, observes +an able writer, it would have required four years at least to +determine on the eligibility of new plans.--But a theatre, +constructed with such expedition, excited apprehensions respecting +its stability: it was necessary to remove them, and, by way of +_trying the house_, the first representation was given _gratis_. This +had the desired effect: after having sustained the weight of between +two and three thousand market-women, oyster-wenches, shoe-blacks, +chimney-sweepers, porters, &c, it was deemed sufficiently solid to +receive a more refined audience. + +At the beginning of the year 1793, the interior of this quickly-built +theatre was also destroyed by fire. But the opera experienced no +interruption: such an event would be regarded as a public calamity in +the capital. In fact, this expensive establishment affords employ to +a vast number of persons. The singers, dancers, musicians, +machinists, painters, tailors, dress-makers, scene-shifters, &c. +attached to it, would constitute a little nation. The richness and +variety of the dresses give activity to several branches of trade, +and its representations involve all the agreeable arts. These united +attractions captivate foreigners, and induce them to squander +considerable sums of money in the country. Hence, were the +opera-house shut up, commerce would suffer; there would be an +absolute void in the pleasures of the Parisians; and, as experience +proves, these volatile people would sooner resign every thing most +valuable than any portion of their amusements. Besides, without such +an establishment, the talents of singers and dancers could not be +maintained in their present perfection. It holds out to them constant +encouragement and remuneration; while, compared to any other theatre, +it excites in the spectators a greater number of pleasing sensations. +How then could it be dispensed with? + +Accordingly, when the disaster befell the theatre of the _Porte St. +Martin_, it was considered as a fortunate circumstance that the +present opera-house was just finished. The performers of the +_ci-devant Académie de Musique_ immediately established themselves +in this new asylum, which is situated in the _Rue de la Loi_, facing +the National Library, and opened it to the public under the name of +_Théâtre des Arts_. I must observe, by the way, that, in France, all +players, dancers, musicians, and every one who exercises an art, are +now styled _artistes_. + +The form of this house is nearly a parallelogram: one of the shorter +sides is occupied by the stage, and the other three are slightly +curved. In general, one is ill placed here, except in the boxes in +front of the stage, and in the pit, the seats of which rise abruptly, +in the manner of an amphitheatre, from the orchestra to the first +tier of boxes. The Chief Consul has chosen for himself the stage-box, +as I believe we term it in England, on the right hand of the actors. +It is elegantly decorated with scarlet velvet, embroidered in gold. +The ornaments (I am not speaking of the scenery) are neither of +superlative elegance, nor do they display extraordinary taste. The +curtain, however, is majestic and beautiful, as well as the ceiling. + +"Here," says a French author, "arts, graces, genius, and taste +conspire to produce a most magnificent, a most brilliant, and most +enchanting spectacle. Here heroes come to life again to sing their +love and their despair; here many a goddess is seen to mix with +mortals, many a Venus to descend from the radiant Olympus in order to +throw herself into the arms of more than one Anchises."--Certainly, +if splendid decorations, rich and appropriate dresses, the most +skilful machinists, the most distinguished composers, a numerous and +most select orchestra, some excellent actors, together with the most +celebrated dancers in Europe, of both sexes, constitute a brilliant +spectacle, this justly deserves that title. In these magnificent +arrangements, we see again the Grand French Opera, as it appeared in +the most splendid days of the monarchy. With the exception of the +singing, every other department at this theatre is much improved; the +only drawback that I can discover at the representation of the same +pieces, which I have often seen here before the revolution, consists +in the exterior of the spectators. Between the acts, when I transport +myself in idea to the former period, and, looking round the house, +form a comparison, I find the republican audience far less brilliant, +owing, no doubt, to the absence of that glare of diamonds, +embroidery, lace, and other finery, which distinguished the +frequenters of the opera under the old government. + +The performances at the opera being, in general, more calculated for +charming the eyes and ears, than gratifying the understanding, it is, +consequently, the most frequented of any of the capital. + + "-------- With the many + Action is eloquence, and th' eyes of th' ignorant + More learned than their ears." + +There is, however, no piece represented at this theatre that a +stranger ought not to see, either on account of the music, or of the +spectacle and its decorations. The operas, or lyric tragedies, which, +from the number of times they have been performed, appear to have +obtained the greatest success, are those of GLUCK. The originality, +the energy, the force and truth of declamation of this great musician +were likely to render him successful, especially among the French, +who applauded the two last-mentioned qualities on their other +national theatre. + +With the exception of one only, all the works of GLUCK have remained +as stock-pieces, and are played from time to time. They are five in +number; namely, _Iphigénie en Aulide_, _Iphigénie en Tauride_, +_Orphée et Euridice_, _Armide_, and _Alceste_. That which could not +maintain its ground, and consequently fell, was _Narcisse_. The +flimsiness of the poem was the cause; for the music, I am assured, is +the finest that GLUCK ever composed, and several pieces of it have +been repeatedly performed in the Parisian concerts. + +The _Didon_ of PICCINI and the _OEdipe à Colonne_ of SACCHINI have +had no less success than the operas of GLUCK. They are very +frequently represented. + +It may not, perhaps, be unseasonable to remind you that, from twenty +to twenty-five years ago, when the old operas of LULLI and RAMEAU +were laid aside, and replaced by modern works, two parties were +formed, which, from the name of the musician that each adopted, were +called, the one, _Gluckists_; and the other, _Piccinists_. Their +inveteracy was great, somewhat like that which, forty years before, +existed between the _Molinists_ and _Jansenists_: and few persons, if +any, I believe, remained neuter. Victory seems to have crowned the +former party. Indeed the music of GLUCK possesses a melody which is +wonderfully energetic and striking. PICCINI is skilful and brilliant +in his harmony, as well as sweet and varied in his composition; but +this style of beauty has been thought to be deficient in expression. +Truth obliges me to say, that, of PICCINI'S works, no opera is now +played but his _Didon_, and that his other productions, which, to the +best of my recollection, are _Alys_, an opera called _Iphigénie en +Tauride_, and _Pénélope_, have fallen. This was ascribed to the +mediocrity of the language; a part of an opera somewhat essential, +though no great attention seems to be bestowed on it. But if people +here are not very difficult as to the style of the language, they +require at least an action well conducted and interesting. When the +piece is of itself cold, it is not in the power of the finest music +to give it warmth. The _OEdipe à Colonne_ of SACCHINI is reckoned by +many persons the _chef-d'oeuvre_ of operas. That able musician has +there excelled in all that is graceful, noble, and pathetic; but it +exhibits not the tragic fire that is to be found in the works of +GLUCK. SACCHINI has left behind him another composition, called +_Arvire et Evéline_, which, though a cold subject, taken from the +history of England, is held in estimation. + +At this theatre are also performed what the French term _opéras de +genre_. These are a species of comic opera, in which is introduced a +great deal of show and bustle. _Panurge_, _La Caravanne_, _Anacréon_, +_Tarare_, _Les Prétendus_, _Les Mystères d'Isis_, &c. are of this +description. The music of the first three is by GRÉTRY. It is +considered as replete with grace, charm, and truth of expression. The +poem of _Panurge_ is an _estravaganza_. Those of the _Caravanne_ and +of _Anacréon_ are but indifferent. It required no small share of +talent to put words into the mouth of the charming poet, whose name +is given to the last-mentioned piece; but M. GUY appears not to have +thought of this. _Tarare_ is a tissue of improbabilities and +absurdities. The poem is frequently nothing but an assemblage of +words which present no meaning. It is a production of the celebrated +BEAUMARCHAIS, who has contrived to introduce into it a sort of +impious metaphysics, much in fashion here before the revolution. The +music is by SALIERI; it is very agreeable. The decorations are +brilliant and diversified. The piece is preceded by a prologue (which +no other opera has) representing the confusion and separation of the +elements; and at the time of its first appearance, I remember it was +said that chaos was the image of the author's head. + +_Les Prétendus_ is a piece in one act, the plot of which is weak, +though of a gay cast. The music is charming. It is by LE MOYNE, who +died a few years ago, at an early period of life. _Les Mystères +d'Isis_, which is now the rage, is an incoherent parody from a German +opera, called _the Enchanted Flute_. To say that the music is by +MOZART, dispenses me from any eulogium. The decorations are extremely +beautiful and varied: a scene representing paradise is really +enchanting. + +After speaking of lyric tragedies, I should have mentioned those +which are either in rehearsal, or intended to be brought forward at +this theatre. They consist of _Hécube_, _Andromaque_, _Sémiramis_, +and _Tamerlan_. Although none of them are spoken of very highly, they +will, in all probability, succeed in a certain degree; for a piece +scarcely ever has a complete fall at the opera. This theatre has so +many resources in the decorations, music, and dancing, that a new +piece is seldom destitute of something worth seeing. + +What, at the present day, proves the greatest attraction to the +opera, is the dancing. How bad soever may be a piece, when it is +interspersed with fine ballets, it is sure of having a certain run. +Of these I shall say no more till I come to speak of that department. + +The weakest part of the performances at the opera is the singing. All +are agreed as to the mediocrity of the singers at this theatre, +called _lyric_. No one can say that, within the last ten or twelve +years, they are improved. To any person fond of the Italian style, it +would be a sort of punishment to attend while some of the singers +here go through a scene. On the stage of the French comic opera, it +has been adopted, and here also a similar change is required; but +with the will to accomplish it, say its partisans, the means, +perhaps, might still be wanting. The greater part of the old +performers have lost their voice, and those who have not, do not +appear to have sufficiently followed the progress of modern taste to +be able all at once to embrace a new manner. + +The first singer at the opera, in point of talent, is LAÏS. He even +leaves all the others far behind him, if we consider him only as a +singer. He is a _tenore_, according to the expression of the +Italians, and a _taille_, according to that of the French: in the +_cantabile_ or graceful style, he is perfect; but he ought to avoid +tragic pieces requiring exertion, in which his voice, though +flexible, is sometimes disagreeable, and even harsh. Besides, he is +absolutely deficient in nobleness of manner; and his stature and +countenance are better suited to low character. Indeed, he chiefly +performs in the operas termed here _opéras de genre_, such as +_Panurge_, _La Caravanne_, _Anacréon_, and _Les Prétendus_. In these, +his acting is correct, and his delivery judicious. + +LAÏS is no less famous for the violence of his political opinions +than for his talents as a singer. At the period when the abettors of +the reign of terror were, in their turn, hunted down, for a long time +he durst not appear on the stage. He was accused by his brother +performers of having said that the opera would never go on well till +a guillotine should be placed on the stage. This stroke was levelled +against the greater part of the actors and the musicians belonging to +the orchestra. However, as LAÏS could not be reproached with any +culpable _actions_, he found zealous defenders, and the public +sacrificed their resentment to their pleasure. This lenity appears +not to have had on him the effect which one would imagine. He still +possesses every requisite for singing well, but seems indifferent as +to the means of pleasing, and exerts himself but little. + +If singers were esteemed by seniority, and perhaps by employment, +LAINEZ would be reckoned the first at this theatre. He is a +counter-tenor, and performs the parts of a lover. His voice is very +strong, and, besides singing through his nose, he screams loud enough +to split one's ears. I have already observed that the ears of a +tasteful amateur would sometimes be shocked at this theatre. The +same remark, no doubt, was equally just some time ago; for J. J. +ROUSSEAU, when he was told that it was intended to restore to him +the free admission which he had enjoyed at the opera, replied that +this was unnecessary, because he had at the door of his +country-residence the screech owls of the forest of Montmorency. +Those who are partial to LAINEZ think him an excellent actor. This +means that he has some warmth, and bestirs himself like a demoniac. +When the heroes of the opera wore hair-powder, nothing was more +comic than to see him shake his head, which was instantly enveloped +in a cloud of dust. At this signal the plaudits burst forth with +great violence, and the would-be singer, screaming with still +greater loudness, seemed on the point of bursting a blood-vessel. + +It is reported that, not long since, a great personage having sent +for the _artists_ belonging to the opera, said to them, addressing +himself to LAINEZ, "Gentlemen, do you intend to keep long your old +singers?"[2] The same personage then turning round to the dancers +added, "As for you, gentlemen of the dance, none but compliments can +be paid to you." + +LAFORÊT who (as the French express it), _doubles_ LAINEZ, that is, +performs the same characters in his absence, has little more to +recommend him than his zeal. His voice is tolerably agreeable, but +not strong enough for so large a house. As an actor he is cold and +aukward. + +Next comes CHÉRON: he sings bass. His voice is strong, and the tone +of it sonorous and clear. However, it is thought to be weakened, and +although this singer sometimes throws out fine tones, he is +reproached with a want of taste and method. He is a sorry actor. +Indeed, he very seldom makes his appearance, which some attribute to +idleness; and others, to his state of health. The latter is likely to +be occasionally deranged, as in point of epicurism, he has as great a +reputation as our celebrated Quin. + +ADRIEN, who _doubles_ CHÉRON, is an excellent actor; but his means do +not equal his intelligence. He presents himself wonderfully well; all +his movements, all his gestures have dignity, grace, and ease. There +are, for the same employment, other secondary singers, some of whom +are by no means backward in exertion, particularly DUFRESNE; but an +impartial observer can say nothing more in their commendation. + +Let us now examine the qualifications of _Mesdames les cantatrices_. + +The first female singer at the opera is Mademoiselle MAILLARD. By +means of a rather pretty face, a clear voice, and a cabal of +malcontents (for there are some every where and in every line), she +obtained loud applause, when she first appeared some years ago as the +rival of the charming ST. HUBERTI. Since the revolution, France has +lost this celebrated actress, and probably for ever. She emigrated, +and has since married the _ci-devant_ Comte d'Antraigues. Although +she had not a powerful voice, she sang with the greatest perfection; +and her impressive and dignified style of acting was at least equal +to her singing. + +At the present day, Mademoiselle MAILLARD has succeeded Madame ST. +HUBERTI, and is, as I have said, the first singer, in point of rank. +She is become enormous in bulk, and as the Italians express it, +_canta a salti_. Her powerful voice fills the house, but she is not +unfrequently out of tune: her declamation is noisy; while her +masculine person gives her in all her motions the air of a Bacchante. +These qualities, no doubt, recommended her to the notice of +CHAUMETTE, the proclaimer of atheism, under whose auspices she more +than once figured as the goddess of reason. She has, nevertheless, +occasionally distinguished herself as an actress; and those who love +noise, admire the effect of her transitions. But I give the +preference to Mademoiselle LATOUR, who has a melodious pipe, which +you will probably hear, as it is said that she has not retired from +the stage, where she frequently reminded the public of the +fascinating ST. HUBERTI, particularly in the character of _Didon_. + +Since the prolonged absence of Mademoiselle LATOUR, Madame BRANCHU +_doubles_ Mademoiselle MAILLARD. She is of much promise both as a +singer and actress. Her voice is agreeable, but not extensive. + +Mademoiselle ARMAND is another most promising singer, who has a more +powerful organ than Madame BRANCHU, and when she has perfectly +acquired the art of modulating it, will, doubtless, prove a very +valuable acquisition to this theatre. Her voice has much sweetness, +and sometimes conveys to the ear the most flattering sounds, as its +low tones are grave without being harsh, and its high ones sonorous +without being sharp. She seems to execute the most difficult pieces +of music with considerable ease; but she is deficient in action. + +Mademoiselle HENRY is strong as to method, but weak as to means, in +singing. There are several other female singers; but, in my opinion, +their merits do not entitle them to particular mention. + +Twelve or fourteen years ago, the opera was much better provided with +singers than it is at the present moment. Their voices, in every line +of this department, were well-toned and powerful. They easily reached +the highest notes according to the tone given by the diapason. Since +then, the powers of most of the singers who still remain on the stage +have diminished, and those called in to supply the place of such as +are dead or have retired, are not near so rich in voice as their +predecessors. The diapason, however, has remained the same: to this, +in a great measure, may be attributed those shrieks and efforts which +disgust foreigners, unaccustomed to the French method. At the +Parisian comic opera, in consequence of a remonstrance from the +principal singers, their diapason has been lowered half a tone; and +it seems necessary to examine whether the same rule be not applicable +to this theatre. + +The choruses, notwithstanding, are now given here with more effect +and precision than I ever remember at any former period. In these, +the ear is no longer offended by exaggerated extensions of the voice, +and, on the whole, they are sung in a grand and graceful style. + +The orchestra, which is ably led by REY, has also experienced a +manifest improvement. The principal musicians, I understand, have +been recently changed; and the first artists are engaged for the +execution of the solos, and nothing can now be wished for, either as +to the spirit and correctness of the overtures, or to the melody and +taste of the accompaniments. + +The Chief Consul is said to be particularly partial to Italian music. +In consequence, KREUTZER, a capital violin, and also a celebrated +composer, has been dispatched to Italy by the French government, for +the express purpose of selecting and purchasing the finest musical +compositions which can be procured in that land of harmony. Thus, the +advice given by ROUSSEAU, in his _Dictionnaire de Musique_, has at +length been followed. + +So much for the singing department of the opera, which, as you see, +with some exceptions, is but indifferent: in my next, I shall speak +of the dancing. + +[Footnote 1: Since the above letter was written, this Lyric theatre +has changed its name for that of _Théâtre de l'Opéra_. This seems +like one of the minor modifications, announcing the general +retrograde current setting towards the readoption of old habits; for +the denomination of _Théâtre des Arts_ was certainly unobjectionable, +as poetry, music, dancing, painting, and mechanics, concurred in +rendering more pompous and more surprising the effects which a +fertile genius, when governed by reason, might assemble here for the +gratification of the public. The addition of the words _et de la +République_ was probably given to it from patriotic zeal, at the time +when the _Royal Academy of Music_ was abolished by the decree which +annihilated all similar monarchical institutions.] + +[Footnote 2: It appears that, from pique, this old opera-singer +refused to sing on Easter-Sunday last, (1802) at the cathedral of +_Notre-Dame_.] + + + +LETTER XLII + +_Paris, December 30, 1801_. + +Dancing, like the other arts in France, has, during the revolution, +experienced the vicissitudes of this new order of things; but also, +like the other arts, it has made a progress equally astonishing and +rapid. However, it must not thence be inferred that dancing, +particularly theatrical, had not attained a certain degree of +superiority long before the revolution; yet a most evident +improvement has been made in it, not only by the old-established +dancers, who then seemed almost to have done their best, but by the +numerous competitors who have since made their appearance. + +It is not in the power of words to convey an adequate idea of the +effect produced on the senses by some of the ballets. In lieu of +those whimsical capers, forced attitudes, vague and undefined +gestures of a set of dancers whose movements had no signification, +dancing now forms an animated, graceful, and diversified picture, in +which all the human passions are feelingly pourtrayed. Their language +is the more expressive from its being more refined and concentrated. +In the silence of pantomime, recourse is had to every ingenious +gesture, in order to impart to them greater force and energy; and, in +this mute play, restraint seems to kindle eloquence. Every motion has +its meaning; the foot speaks as well as the eye, and the sensations +of the mind are expressed by the attitudes of the body. A delicate +sentiment is rendered with the rapidity of lightning. Love, fear, +hope, and despair, change countenances, and say every thing that they +wish to say, void of deceit, as if falsehood no longer existed as +soon as the mouth ceased to open. + +It should not be forgotten that it was NOVERRE who first brought +about in France this reform in what were till then called ballets, +without deserving the title. He banished wigs, hoop-petticoats, and +other preposterous habiliments, and, by dint of superior genius, +seconded by taste and perseverance, introduced those historical +pictures, replete with grace, expression, and sentiment, in the room +of the flat, insipid, and lifeless caricatures, which had hitherto +usurped admiration. + +But, though NOVERRE, and, after him, the GARDELS, introduced on the +Parisian stage the pantomimic art in all the lustre in which it +flourished on the theatres of Greece and Rome, yet they had been +anticipated by HILWERDING in Germany, and ANGIOLINI in Italy, two +celebrated men, who, in a distinguished manner, laid the foundations +of a species of modern entertainment, before known only by the annals +of ancient history. Those who have trod in their steps have +infinitely surpassed them in attractions, and, by their scientific +compositions, acquired a justly-merited reputation. + +GARDEL, who, for the last fifteen years, has been the first dancer at +the opera, shews himself but seldom. After having, during that long +period, received the warmest and best deserved applause, either in +the execution of the noble style of dancing, or in the composition of +ballets, he seems now to have devoted himself almost exclusively to +the last-mentioned branch of his art, and the perfection to which he +daily carries it, may well compensate the public for the privation of +his talents in the line of execution. + +The most famous pantomimical ballets or _ballets d'action_ (as they +are styled) now represented here, are _Psyché_, _Télémaque_, _Le +Jugement de Paris_, _Mirza_, and _la Dansomanie_. The impression to +which I have before alluded, is particularly observable during the +representation of the first three (composed by GARDEL), the charm of +which would be weakened by any attempt at description. No spectator, +be his disposition ever so cold and indifferent, can behold them +unmoved. Every effort of human skill and invention is exerted to +excite astonishment and admiration. The _ensemble_ of the _spectacle_ +and decorations correspond to the fertile genius of the author. It is +the triumph of the art, and there may be fixed the limits of +pantomime, embellished by dancing. Nothing more perfect than the +rapid change of scenery. Meteors, apparitions, divinities borne on +clusters of clouds or in cars, appear and disappear, as if by +enchantment, exhibiting situations the most picturesque and striking. + +BOULAY, the principal machinist, is, perhaps, the first in his line +in Europe. In the opera of _Armide_, I have seen him raise into the +air nearly one half of the theatre. He executes whatever is proposed +to him, no matter how difficult, and he is well seconded by the +painters and draughtsmen. The new decorations display much taste, and +produce an effect truly wonderful. + +Had I not already made the remark, you might have concluded from the +general tenour of my observations, that the dancing forms the most +brilliant part, of the _spectacle_ at this theatre, or, in other +words, that the accessory prevails over the main subject. It is no +longer, as heretofore, a few capital dancers of both sexes who form +the ornament of the opera. Almost all the competitors in this line +are so many _virtuosi_ who deserve and equally participate the +plaudits of the public. There is not among them any mediocrity. The +establishment of the _école de la danse_ is for this theatre a +nursery, where Terpsichore finds, in great numbers, the most +promising plants for the decoration of her temple. It is saying +little to affirm that nothing equals the superiority of talents of +this description which the opera comprehends at the present moment. +These advantages, I understand, are chiefly due to GARDEL. He has +given the example and the precept, and, through his guidance, the art +of dancing is become doubly captivating. + +After having supplied most of the principal cities in Europe with +capital dancers, this theatre, far from being impoverished, is still +in possession of a numerous train of first-rate _artists_ of both +sexes in every style of dancing. The men are GARDEL, MILON, ST. +AMAND, DESHAIES, GOYON, BEAUPRÉ, BRANCHU, BEAULIEU, AUMER, LÉON, +TAGLIONI, DUPORT, and VESTRIS. + +It is unnecessary to speak of the talents of VESTRIS, as they are as +well known in London as in Paris. I shall therefore content myself +with remarking that he delights in exhibiting feats of agility; but +as his age increases, connoisseurs think that he declines a little. +Nevertheless, he is still, in reality, the first dancer at the opera. +It is said that his son, ARMAND VESTRIS, will, in time, be able to +supply his place; in the mean while, DUPORT bids fair to fill it, in +case the "_Dieu de la danse_" should retire; not to mention DESHAIES, +who has lately met with an accident which has disabled him for the +present; but who, when on the stage in the presence of Vestris, has +shewn that he could also astonish and delight the spectators. Without +having the boldness of his rival, he exhibits more certainty and +_à-plomb_. In the character of _Télémaque_, he appears with all the +grace of Apollo. If excellence in dancing be allowed to consist less +in the efforts of the dancer, than in the ease and gracefulness of +his attitudes, and the lightness and precision of his steps, DESHAIES +may he classed in the first rank of his profession. + +In this exercise, as in every thing else, there is a just medium, and +this is more particularly observed by the principal female dancers. +The names of these are GARDEL, CLOTILDE, CHEVIGNY, PÉRIGNON, COLLOMB, +CHAMEROI,[1] SAULNIER, VESTRIS, DELISLE, MILLIÈRE, LOUISE, FÉLICITÉ, +DUPORT, TAGLIONI, ALINE, ÉTIENNE, JACOTOT, FLORINE, ADÈLE, to whom +may be added two most promising _débutantes_, LA NEUVILLE and +BIGOTINI, whose first appearance I witnessed. + +Though Madame GARDEL, wife of the principal ballet-master, shines in +_demi-caractère_, her talents, in the different parts in which she is +placed, are above all panegyric. As NOVERRE has said somewhere of a +famous dancer, "she is always tender, always graceful, sometimes a +butterfly, sometimes a zephyr, at one moment inconstant, at another +faithful; always animated by a new sentiment, she represents with +voluptuousness all the shades of love." To sum up her merits, she is +really in her art the female Proteus of the lyric scene. Mademoiselle +CLOTILDE is a tall, elegant woman, who dances in the serious style. +All her movements, made with precision, exhibit the beautiful +proportion of her finely-modelled figure; but, owing to her stature, +she appears to most advantage in pantomime, particularly in the +character of _Calypso_ in the ballet of _Télémaque_. In the same +ballet, MILLIÈRE, in the part of _Eucharis_, displays her playful +graces and engaging mien. CHEVIGNY is full of expression in +pantomime, and dances in great perfection, notwithstanding her +_embonpoint_. PÉRIGNON and COLLOMB are superior in the comic style, +and all the others are not without some peculiar exellence.[2] + +I should never finish, were I to attempt to particularize the merits +of all these fascinating women, who, as well as the men, have, of +late, alternately interchanged the characters they performed in the +ballets of action. Even those introduced occasionally in the fêtes +given and received by the heroes in the different operas, present a +real contest, in which the first-rate dancers of both sexes exert +themselves to snatch the palm from their rivals. When a theatre +possesses such a richness, variety, and assemblage of talents in the +same art, it may boldly stylo itself the first in Europe. But I must +confess that an innovation has been introduced here which detracts +much from what has always been considered as fine dancing. I mean the +mania of _pirouettes_. This, however, seems less to be attributed to +a decided _penchant_ of the dancers than to that of a new public, not +yet familiarized to what constitutes true taste. + +During a revolution, every thing changes, every thing assumes a new +face. What was entitled to please yesterday in times of tranquillity, +is to-day, during the jar of public opinion, and will be to-morrow +subject to all the variations of caprice. The marvellous and gigantic +usurp the place of the natural, and claim alone the right to +entertain. True it is that the dancers have found means to render +this new manner interesting, while they have enjoyed the sweets of +it. The pleasure of being applauded is so great, that it is no easy +matter to withstand the powerful allurement of the plaudits of a +numerous audience. Boileau has said, "_Aimez-vous la muscade? On en a +mis par tout_." The French dancers, following his example, have said, +"_Aimez-vous les pirouettes?_" The public have answered _oui_; and +_pirouettes_ are all the rage. + +When a certain king of Bisnagar sneezes, the court, the town, the +provinces, all the subjects of his empire, in short, sneeze in +imitation of their monarch. Without departing from my subject, I +shall only observe that _pirouettes_, like this sneezing, have found +their way from the opera-stage into the circles of every class of +society in Paris. There lies the absurdity. The young Frenchmen have +been emulous to dance like dancers by profession; the women have had +the same ambition; and both men and women have, above all, been +desirous to shine like them in _pirouettes_. Thence most of the +dances, formerly practised in society, in which simple and natural +grace was combined with a certain facility and nobleness of +execution, have been entirely laid aside. It must be acknowledged, +that, among the dancers in private company, there are many, indeed, +who, by dint of imitation and study, have attained a great degree of +perfection. But I now perceive that people here no longer dance for +their amusement; they dance to gratify their vanity, and many a +person who has not practised some hours in the morning under the +tuition of his master, excuses himself in the evening, pretends to be +lame, and declines dancing. + +The taste and elegance of the dresses of the opera-dancers, like +those of the heroes and heroines of the sock and buskin, leave +nothing to be wished for. In lieu of drawers, which all women, +without exception, were formerly obliged to wear on the stage[3], +those who dance have now substituted silk pantaloons, woven with +feet, in order to serve also as stockings. In some particular +characters, they wear these of flesh colour, and it is not then easy, +at first sight, to distinguish whether it be or be not the clothing +of nature. + +The French opera having been long considered as the grand national +theatre, it has ever been the pride of the government, whether +monarchical or republican, to support it in a manner worthy of the +nation. In fact, the disbursements are so great, that it would be +impossible for the receipts to cover them, though the performances +are seldom suspended for more than two days in the week, and the +house is generally crowded. This theatre is managed by the +government, and on its account. The Minister of the Interior appoints +a commissioner to superintend its operations, and managers to conduct +them. During the old _régime_, the opera cost the crown annually from +one hundred and fifty to two hundred thousand livres. What the +extraordinary expenses of this house are, under the present +government, is not so easily ascertained; but, from the best +information that I have been able to procure, their amount is from +three to four hundred thousand francs a year. Here is a considerable +increase; but it must be remembered that the price of several +articles is now greatly augmented, if not doubled. + +The receipt of the opera, on an average, used to be from twelve to +fifteen thousand livres a night; what it is at this day, is not +positively known. Formerly, the produce of the boxes, let by the +year, was such, that nine thousand livres were paid, in a manner, +before the doors were thrown open. That resource is almost void at +present; nevertheless, this house being more spacious than the old +one, the prices of admission higher, and the performance, perhaps, +more constantly attended, the money taken at the door cannot well be +less than it was formerly. It then cost much less than it does now to +bring out a new piece. Thirty or forty thousand livres were +sufficient for the production of the most magnificent opera; while +the disbursements to be made for _Tamerlan_ will, it is thought, +amount to upwards of eighty thousand francs. At this rate, the first +representation of the _Mystères d'Isis_, of which so much has been +said, must have been attended with an expense of more than a hundred +thousand. Scandal whispers, that the managers of the opera are rather +partial to expensive pieces; but as they are accountable for their +conduct to the Minister of the Interior, I should presume that they +must act as honourable men. + +The salaries are not considerable at this theatre. The first +performers have not more than twelve thousand francs a year, +exclusively of the _feux_, which is the sum given to each of them, +when they perform. This, I understand, does not exceed a louis a +night. Those who have a name, indemnify themselves by going, from +time to time, to play in the great commercial towns of the +departments, such as Bordeaux, Lyons, Marseilles, &c. where they +generally collect a rich harvest. It is said that VESTRIS has +received from the government a gratification to prevent him from +visiting the British metropolis; and it is also reported that DIDELOT +and LABORIE have made vain efforts to return to the Parisian opera; +but that the managers, faithful to their instructions, refuse to +readmit such of the old performers as have voluntarily quitted it. +What attaches performers to the opera-house is the _pension de +retraite._ They all eventually obtain it, even the chorus-singers. + +The remuneration of authors, that is, of the poet and composer of the +music, is to each three hundred francs for every representation, when +the piece is not less than three acts. This is the most common +division. I know of no operas in one act; those in two are paid in +the above proportion.[4] + +[Footnote 1: GARDEL has lately added another sprig of laurel to his +brow, by the production of a new pantomimical ballet, called _Daphnis +et Pandrose, ou la vengeance de l'amour_. He has borrowed the subject +from a story of Madame DE GENLIS, who took it from fable. Every +resource of his inexhaustible genius has been employed to give the +happiest effect to this charming work, to enumerate the beauties of +which is, by general report, beyond the powers of language. All the +first-rate dancers of both sexes are placed in the most advantageous +point of view throughout this ballet. Madame GARDEL performs in it +the part of Cupid, with all the charms, wiles, and graces which poets +ascribe to the roguish deity. The other characters are represented in +a manner no less interesting. In short, music, dancing, pantomime, +dress, decoration, every thing in this piece, concurs to stamp it as +one of the most wonderful productions of the kind ever exhibited to +the admiration of the public.] + +[Footnote 2: In a preceding note, VESTRIS has been mentioned as the +reputed lover of Mademoiselle CHAMEROI, and from this instance of +illicit intercourse, it might, perhaps, be erroneously inferred that +most of the Parisian female opera-dancers had overleaped the pale of +virtue. Without pretending to enter the lists as the champion of +their character, though I admire their talents as warmly as any +amateur, truth induces me to observe that many of these ladies enjoy +an unblemished reputation. Madame VESTRIS, in particular, is +universally represented as a young and pretty woman, much attached to +her faithless husband, and, notwithstanding his improper example, a +constant observer of the most exemplary conduct.] + +[Footnote 3: Many years ago, a Parisian actress, coming on the stage +in the part of _Mérope_, in the tragedy of that name, her petticoats +somehow happened to catch in the side-scene, and, in her hasty +endeavours to disentangle them, she exhibited to the audience the +hind part of her person. In consequence of this accident, a _sentence +de police_ enjoined every woman, whether actress or dancer, not to +appear on the boards of any theatre, without drawers.] + +[Footnote 4: The refusal made by the Rector of St. Roch to admit into +that church the corpse of Mademoiselle CHAMEROI, has informed us in +England of the loss which this theatre has sustained in that young +and accomplished dancer. She died, generally regretted, in +consequence of being delivered of a child of which VESTRIS considered +himself as the real father. However, M. DE MARKOFF, the Russian +ambassador at Paris, stood sponsor to the infant, and, according to +the scandalous chronicle, was not contented with being only a +spiritual father. The Parisian public have consoled themselves for +this loss by talking a great deal about the scene to which it gave +rise. It seems that the Rector was decidedly in the wrong, the +dancers of the opera never having been comprised in the papal +excommunication which involved players. The persons composing the +funeral procession were also in the wrong to go to St. Roch, since +the Rector had positively declared that the corpse of Mademoiselle +CHAMEROI should not enter the church.] + + + +LETTER XLIII. + +_Paris, January 1, 1802._ + +Fast locked in the arms of Morpheus, and not dreaming of what was to +happen, as Lord North said, when the king caused him to be awakened, +in the dead of the night, to deliver up the seals, so was I roused +this morning by a message from an amiable French lady of my +acquaintance, requesting me to send her some _bonbons_. "_Bonbons_!" +exclaimed I, "in the name of wonder, Rosalie, is your mistress so +childishly impatient as to send you trailing through the snow, on +purpose to remind me that I promised to replenish her +_bonbonnière_?"--"Not exactly so, Monsieur," replied the _femme de +chambre_, "Madame was willing to be the first to wish you a happy new +year."--"A new year!" said I, "by the republican calendar, I thought +that the new year began on the 1st of Vendémiaire."--"Very true," +answered she; "but, in spite of new laws, people adhere to old +customs; wherefore we celebrate the first of January."--"As to +celebrating the first of January, _à la bonne heure_, Rosalie," +rejoined I, "I have no sort of objection; but I wish you had adhered +to some of your other old customs, and, above all, to your old hours. +I was not in bed till past six o'clock this morning, and now, you +wake me at eight with your congratulations."--"Never mind, Monsieur," +said she, "you will soon drop asleep again; but my mistress hopes +that you will not fail to make one of her party on the _Fête des +Rois_."--"Good heaven!" exclaimed I again, "what, is a +counterrevolution at hand, that the _Fête des Rois_ must also be +celebrated?"--"'Tis," interrupted Rosalie, "only for the pleasure of +drawing for king and queen."--"Tell Madame," added I, "that I will +accept her invitation."--Dismissing the _soubrette_ with this +assurance, at the same time not forgetting to present her with a new +year's gift, she at once revealed the secret of her early visit, by +hinting to me that, among intimate friends, it was customary to give +_étrennes_. This, in plain English, implies nothing more nor less +than that I must likewise make her mistress a present, on the +principle, I suppose, that _les petits cadeaux entretiennent +l'amitié_. + +My reflection then turned on the instability of this people. After +establishing a new division of time, they return to the old one, and +celebrate, as formerly, the first of January. Now, it is evident that +the former accords better with the order of nature, and that autumn +was the first season which followed the creation. Why else should +apples of irresistible ripeness and beauty have presented themselves +to the eye of our first parents in the garden of Eden? This would not +have been the case, had the world commenced in winter. + +Besides, a multitude of advantages would accrue to the French from an +adherence to the 1st of Vendémiaire, or 23d of September of the +Gregorian calendar, as the first day of the year. The weather, after +the autumnal equinox, is generally settled, in consequence of the air +having been purified by the pre-existing gales, the ordinary +forerunners of that period: and the Parisians would not be obliged to +brave the rain, the wind, the cold, the frost, the snow, &c. in going +to wish a happy new year to their fathers, mothers, uncles, aunts, +cousins, and other relations. For to all this are they now exposed, +unless they choose to ruin themselves in coach-hire. The consequence +is that they are wet, cold, and dirty for two or three successive +days, and are sure to suffer by a sore throat, rheumatism, or fever, +all which entail the expensive attendance of the faculty; whereas, +did they celebrate the 23d of September as new year's day, they +might, in a quiet, unassuming manner, pay all their visits on foot, +and, in that season, this exercise would neither be prejudicial to +their purse nor their health. + +I do not immediately recollect whether I have spoken to you of the +long-expected account of the French expedition to Egypt, by DENON: +yet I ought not to have omitted to inform you that, upwards of two +months ago, I set down your name for a copy of this splendid work. It +will cost you 360 francs; but you will have one of the proof +impressions. I have seen a specimen of the letter-press, which is to +consist of a folio volume, printed by Didot. The plates, amounting to +upwards of one hundred and forty in number, are entirely engraved +from DENON'S original drawings, without any reduction or enlargement, +with the exception of that representing the Battle of the Pyramids, +the size of which has been increased at the express desire of +BONAPARTE. I have often amused myself on a morning in contemplating +these drawings; but the crowd of curious persons being generally +great, I determined to seize the opportunity of examining them more +at leisure to-day, when the French are entirely engaged in +interchanging the compliments of the season. I found DENON himself +diligently employed on some of the engravings; and so anxious is he +for the publication of the work, that he toils early and late to +forward its appearance. + +Notwithstanding the anxiety he feels on that account, this estimable +artist takes a real pleasure in explaining the subject of his +drawings; and, by means of his obliging communications, I am now +become tolerably well acquainted with Egypt. What country, in fact, +has a better claim to fix attention than that which served as a +cradle to human knowledge, and the history of which goes back to the +first ages of the world; a country, where every thing seems to have +commenced? Laws, arts, sciences, and even fables, which derive their +origin from nature, whose attributes they immortalize, and which, at +a subsequent period, formed the ground-work of the ingenious fictions +of mythology. + +What idea must we not conceive of the industry and civilization of a +people who erected those celebrated monuments, anterior to the annals +of history, to the accounts even of tradition, those pyramids which +have unalterably withstood all the ravages of time? + +When we look back on the ancients, the Greeks and Romans almost +exclusively divide our attention. The former, it is true, carried +farther the love and the culture of the fine arts; while the latter +are more remarkable for the great traits of their character; though +both acquired that renown which mankind have so improperly attached +to the success of arms. + +But, in allowing to Greece all the interest which she claims, in so +many respects, we cannot forget that she was originally peopled by +Egyptian colonies; that it was Egyptians who, in later times, carried +thither the knowledge of the arts, the most necessary and the most +indispensable to society; and that, at the epoch which preceded the +splendid days of Greece, it was also into Egypt that the sages went +to acquire that knowledge of a superior kind, which constituted their +glory, and rendered their country illustrious. + +What keeps up a sort of rivalship between Greece and Egypt is that, +independently of the priority of knowledge, the former had the +eminent advantage of opening her arms to philosophy and the sciences, +which, forsaking their adoptive country, and not being able to +survive the loss of liberty, fled back to their natal soil, and +found, in the Museum of Alexandria, an asylum, which neither the +Lyceum, the Portico, nor the Academy, could longer afford them at +Athens. Thus, to the reign of the Ptolemies are we, unquestionably, +indebted for the preservation of the knowledge acquired by the +ancients. + +Apropos, I forgot to mention to you that BERTHOLET, a Senator and +Member of the Institute, communicated to that society, in one of its +sittings last month, a letter from FOURIER, the geometrician, and +member of the late Institute of Egypt. This _savant_, in the +researches he made in Upper Egypt, discovered and delineated several +zodiacs, which, he says, fully confirm the theory of DUPUIS, +respecting the origin and antiquity of the figures of the zodiac. As +far back as the year 1781, DUPUIS published a memoir, since reprinted +in his large work, entitled _De l'Origine des Cultes_, in which he +presumes that the zodiac, such as it has been transmitted to us by +the Greeks, is of Egyptian origin, and that it goes back to fifteen +thousand years, at least, before the era of the French revolution. + + + +LETTER XLIV. + +_Paris, January 3, 1802._ + +An almost uninterrupted succession of wet weather has, of late, +precluded me from the regular enjoyment of a morning walk. But, with +the new year, we had a heavy fall of snow, which has since been +succeeded by a severe frost. I gladly availed myself of this +opportunity of taking exercise, and yesterday, after viewing the +skaiters in that part of the _Champs Elysées_ which had been +inundated, and is now frozen, I immediately proceeded to the + +HÔTEL DES INVALIDES. + +This majestic edifice was projected by Henry IV, and executed, by +order of Lewis XIV, after the designs of BRUANT, who laid the +foundation on the 30th of November, 1671. It is composed of five +courts, surrounded by buildings. The middle court is as large as all +the other four. + +A spacious esplanade planted with trees, an outer court surrounded by +a wall newly-built, form the view towards the river, and lead to the +principal façade, which is twelve hundred feet in extent. This façade +has, within these few years, been entirely polished anew: the details +of sculpture have, perhaps, gained by the operation; but the +architecture has certainly lost that gloomy tint which gave to this +building a manly and respectable character. In the middle of this +façade, in the arched part above the great gate, was a bas-relief of +Lewis XIV on horseback. + +This gate leads to the great court, which is decorated by two rows of +arcades, the one above the other, forming, on the two stories, +uniform galleries which give light to the apartments of the +circumference. The windows, which serve to light the upper apartments +of the façade, are remarkable from their being placed in cuirasses, +as those of the great court are in trophies of arms. + +From this court, you enter the church, now called the _Temple of +Mars_. It is ornamented with the Corinthian order, and has the form +of a Greek cross. The pulpit no longer exists. The altar, which was +magnificently decorated, is likewise destroyed. + +The chapels, to the number of six, were each ornamented by a cupola +painted in fresco, and statues in marble by the greatest masters, +which, after being left for some time exposed to the injuries of the +air in the court looking towards the country, are at length deposited +in the MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONUMENTS. + +To the arches of this temple are suspended the standards and colours +taken from the enemy. Two British flags only contribute to augment +the number. The oldest of these trophies have been removed from +_Notre-Dame_. When they were formerly displayed in that cathedral, a +general, who was constantly victorious, was called by the people the +_upholsterer of Notre-Dame_; an energetic appellation which spoke +home to the feelings. But, however calculated these emblems of +victory may be to foster heroism in the mind of youth, and rekindle +valour in the heart of old age, what a subject of reflection do they +not afford to the philanthropist! How can he, in fact, contemplate +these different flags, without regretting the torrents of blood which +they have cost his fellow-creatures? + +In this _Temple of Mars_ is erected the monument of TURENNE, whose +body, after various removals, was conveyed hither, in great pomp, on +the 1st of Vendémiaire, year IX (23d of September, 1800) conformably +to a decree of the Consuls, and immediately deposited in the inside +of this tomb. + +The present government of France seems to have taken the hint from +St. Foix, who expresses his astonishment that Lewis XIV never +conceived the idea of erecting, in the _Hôtel des Invalides_, +mausolea, with the statues of the generals who had led with the +greatest glory the armies of the nation. "Where could they be more +honourably interred," says he, "than amidst those old soldiers, the +companions of their fatigues, who, like themselves, had lavished +their blood for their country?"[1] + +At the age of sixty-four, TURENNE was killed by a cannon-ball, while +reconnoitring the enemy's batteries near the village of Salzbach in +Germany, on the 27th of July, 1675. No less esteemed for his virtues +as a man, than honoured for his talents as a general, he at last fell +a victim to his courage. His soldiers looked up to him as to a +father, and in his life-time always gave him that title. After his +death, when they saw the embarrassment in which it left the generals +who succeeded him in the command of the army: "_Let loose old +Piebald_," said they, "_he will guide us_."[2] The same ball which +(to borrow a line from Pope) laid + + "The _god-like_ TURENNE prostrate in the dust," + +likewise took off the arm of ST. HILAIRE, Lieutenant-general of +artillery: his son, who was beside him at the moment, uttered a cry +of grief. "_'Tis not me, my son, that you must bewail_," said ST. +HILAIRE; "_'tis that great man._" + +The Marshal was as much lamented by the enemy as he was by his own +countrymen; and MONTECUCULLI, the general opposed to him, when he +learned the loss which France had sustained in the person of TURENNE, +exclaimed: "Then a man is dead who was an honour to human nature!" + +The Germans, for several years, left untilled the field where he was +killed; and the inhabitants shewed it as a sacred spot. They +respected the old tree under which, he reposed a little time before +his death, and would not suffer it to be cut down. The tree perished +only, because soldiers of all nations carried away pieces of it out +of respect to his memory. + +TURENNE had been interred in the abbey of St. Denis, and at the time +of the royal vaults being opened in 1793, by order of the National +Convention, the remains of that great captain were respected amid the +general destruction which ensued. From the eagerness of the workmen +to behold them, his tomb was the very first that was opened. When the +lid of the coffin was removed, the Marshal was found in such a state +of preservation that he was not at all disfigured: the features of +his face, far from being changed, were perfectly conformable to the +portraits and medallions of TURENNE in our possession. + +This monument, now placed in the _Temple of Mars_, had been erected +to that warrior in the abbey of St. Denis, and was preserved through +the care of M. LENOIR; after being seen for five years in the MUSEUM +OF FRENCH MONUMENTS, of which he is the director, it was removed +hither by the before-mentioned decree of the Consuls. LE BRUN +furnished the designs from which it was executed. The group, composed +of TURENNE in the arms of Immortality, is by TUBY; the accessory +figures, the one representing Wisdom, and the other, Valour, are by +MARSY. The bas-relief in bronze in the middle of the cenotaph is +likewise by TURY, and represents TURENNE charging the enemy at the +battle of Turckheim, in 1675. + +The dome forms a second church behind the large one, to which it +communicates. Its exterior, entirely covered with lead, is surrounded +by forty pillars of the Composite order, and ornamented with twelve +large gilt coats of mail, crowned with helmets, which serve as +skylights, and with a small lantern with pillars which support a +pyramid, surmounted by a large ball and a cross. + +All the architecture of the dome, which is called the new church, is +from the design of MANSARD. Its elevation, from the ground-floor, is +three hundred feet; and its diameter, fifty. It has the character of +elegance. The beauty of its proportion, its decoration, and +especially all the parts which concur in forming the pyramid, render +it a master-piece of architecture. But nothing commands admiration +like the interior, though it may be said to be three-fourths damaged. +The twelve windows, by which it is lighted, but which the observer +below cannot perceive, are ornamented with coupled piasters, resting +on a continued pedestal. On the broad band, which was formerly +adorned with flower-de-luces, and at this day with emblems of +liberty, were the medallions of twelve of the most famous kings of +France: namely, Clovis, Dagobert, Childebert, Charlemagne, Lewis the +Debonair, Charles the Bald, Philip Augustus, St. Lewis, Lewis XII, +Henry IV, Lewis XIII, and Lewis XIV. The first arch, distributed into +twelve equal parts, presented the twelve apostles, painted in fresco +by JOUVENET. The second arch, painted by LA FOSSE, represented the +apotheosis of St. Lewis, offering to God his sword and crown. The +pavement, which alone has not suffered, is in compartments of +different marbles of great value. + +The portal, which looks towards the country, is thirty toises in +extent. Of all the figures which decorated this façade, those of the +Four Virtues; namely, Justice, Temperance, Fortitude, and Prudence, +are the only ones that have been suffered to remain in their places. +They are by COYZEVOX. + +The other objects most worthy of notice in this spacious, building, +which, together with its precincts, occupies seventeen _arpens_, are +the refectories and kitchens, which are very extensive. Formerly, +neither of these were kept in such high order as they are at present. +The tables of the private soldiers are now better supplied; sirloins +of beef and legs of mutton being no longer roasted for the officers +only. In the four refectories, where the soldiers dine, twelve in a +mess, they are regularly served with soup, bouilli, a plate of +vegetables, and a pint of unadulterated wine. When Peter the Great +visited this establishment, the Invalids happened to be at dinner, +the czar, on entering the first refectory, poured out a bumper of +wine, and drank it off in a military style to the health of the +veterans, whom he termed his comrades. + +The halls are ornamented with paintings representing the conquests of +Lewis XIV. During the reign of terror the features of the _Grand +Monarque_, who made a conspicuous figure in these pictures, were +concealed by a coat of dark paint, which answered the purpose of a +mask. BONAPARTE has ordered this mask to be removed, so that the +ambitious monarch now reappears in all his former glory. + +Whatever may be said in praise of establishments of this description, +for my part, I see nothing in them but the gratification of national +pride. The old soldiers, are, in a manner, without a comrade, though +living in the midst of their brother warriors. The good fellowship +which they have witnessed in camps no longer subsists. The danger of +battles, the weight of fatigues, and the participation of privations +and hardships, no longer form the tie of common interest, by which +they were once united. This, being dissolved, they seek in vain that +reciprocity of little kindnesses which they used to find in their own +regiments and armies. All hope of promotion or change being at an +end, their only consolation is to enjoy the present by indulging in +reveries concerning the past. + +Instead of being doomed to end their days in this sort of stately +confinement, subject to restrictions which render life so dull and +monotonous, how different would these veterans feel, could they +retire to the bosom of their families and friends! Then, indeed, +would they dwell with delight on the battles and sieges in which they +had served, enumerating their many hair-breadth escapes, and +detailing the particulars of the fight in which they lost their +deficient leg or arm. After a pause, the sense of their country's +gratitude operating powerfully on their mind, would soothe every +painful recollection. Their auditors, impressed with admiration, +would listen in silence to the recital of the well-fought day, and, +roused by the call of national honour, cheerfully step forth to +emulate these mutilated heroes, provided they were sure of a _free_ +asylum, when reduced to their helpless condition. + +Whether I enter the _Hôtel des Invalides_, or _Chelsea Hospital_, +such are the reflections which never fail to occur to me, when I +visit either of those establishments, and contemplate the dejected +countenances of the maimed beings that inhabit them. + +Experience tells us that men dislike enjoyments, regularly prepared +for them, if under restraint, and prefer smaller gratifications, of +which they can partake without control. Policy, as well as prudence, +therefore dictates a departure from the present system of providing +for those maimed in fighting the battles of their nation. + +In a word, I am fully persuaded that the sums expended in the +purchase of the ground and construction of this magnificent edifice, +together with the charges of maintaining the establishment, would +have formed a fund that might have enabled the government to allow +every wounded soldier a competent pension for life, in proportion to +the length of his services, and the injuries which he might have +suffered in defence of his country. + +From the _Hôtel des Invalides_ are avenues, planted with trees, +which, on one side, communicate to the _New Boulevards_, and, on the +other, to the + +CHAMP DE MARS. + +This extensive inclosure was originally intended for the exercises of +the _École Militaire_, in front of which it is situated, as you will +perceive by referring to the Plan of Paris. Its form is a +parallelogram of four hundred and fifty toises in length by one +hundred and fifty in breadth. It is surrounded by ditches, faced with +masonry, which are bordered on each side by a double row of trees, +extending from the façade of the _ci-devant École Militaire_ to the +banks of the Seine. That building, I shall observe _en passant_, was +founded in 1751, by Lewis XV, for the military education of five +hundred young gentlemen, destitute of fortune, whose fathers had died +in the service. It stands on the south side of the _Champ de Mars_, +and serves at present as barracks for the horse-grenadiers of the +consular guard. On the third story of one of the wings is a national +observatory, which was constructed at the instigation of Lalande, the +celebrated astronomer. + +The various scenes of which the _Champ de Mars_ has successively been +the theatre, are too interesting to be passed over in silence. +Indeed, they exhibit the character of the nation in such striking +colours, that to omit them, would be like omitting some of the +principal features in the drawing of a portrait. Often have they been +mentioned, it is true; but subsequent events have so weakened the +remembrance of them, that they now present themselves to the mind +more like dreams than realities. However, I shall touch on the most +remarkable only. + +In 1790, a spacious arena, encompassed by a mound of earth, divided +into seats so as to accommodate three hundred thousand spectators, +was formed within this inclosure. To complete it speedily for the +ceremony of the first federation, required immense labour. The slow +progress of twenty-five thousand hired workmen could not keep pace +with the ardent wishes of the friends of liberty. But those were the +days of enthusiasm: concord and harmony then subsisted among the +great majority of the French people. What other sentiments, in fact, +could daily bring together, in the _Champ de Mars_, two hundred and +fifty thousand persons of every class, without distinction of age or +sex, to work at the necessary excavation? Thus, at the end of a week, +the amphitheatre was completed as if by enchantment. + +Never, perhaps, since the time of the Spartans, was seen among any +people such an example of cordial union. It would be difficult for +the warmest imagination to conceive a picture so varied, so original, +so animated. Every corporation, every society was ambitious of the +honour of assisting in the erection of the altar of the country: all +wished to contribute, by individual labour, to the arrangement of the +place where they were to swear to defend the constitution. Not a man, +woman, or child remained an idle spectator. On this occasion, the +aged seemed to have recovered the vigour of youth, and women and +children to have acquired the strength of manhood. In a word, men of +all trades and professions were confounded, and cheerfully handled +the pickaxe and shovel: delicate females, sprucely dressed, were seen +here and there wheeling along barrows filled with earth; while long +strings of stout fellows dragged heavy loads in carts and waggons. As +the electric matter runs along the several links of an extensive +chain, so patriotism seemed to have electrified this whole mass of +people. The shock was universal, and every heart vibrated in unison. + +The general good order which prevailed among this vast assemblage, +composed indiscriminately of persons of every rank and condition, was +truly surprising. No sort of improper discourse, no dispute of any +kind occurred. But what is still more singular and more worthy of +remark is, that the mutual confidence shewn by so many people, +strangers to each other, was in no one instance abused. Those who +threw off their coats and waistcoats, leaving them to the fate of +chance, during the time they were at work elsewhere, on their return +to the same spot found them untouched. Hence, as Paris is known to +abound with _filoux_, it may be inferred that the _amor patriæ_ had +deadened in them the impulse of their ordinary vocation. + +Franklin, when promoting the emancipation of America, during his +residence in Paris, probably did not foresee that the French would +soon borrow his favourite expression, and that it would become the +burden of a popular air. Yet so it happened; and even Lewis XVI +himself participated in the patriotic labours of the _Champ de Mars_, +while different bands of military music made the whole inclosure +resound with _ça ira_. + +To these exhilarating scenes succeeded others of the most opposite +nature. Hither the guillotine was transported for the execution of +the greatest astronomer of the age, and this with no other view than +to prolong his punishment. Bailly, as every one knows, was the first +mayor of Paris after the revolution. Launched into the vortex of +politics, he became involved in the proscriptions which ensued during +the reign of terror, and was dragged from prison to the _Champ de +Mars_, where, though exposed to the most trying insults, he died, +like a philosopher, with Socratic calmness. + +In no one of the numerous victims of the revolution was the +instability of popular favour more fully exemplified than in Bailly. +In this _Champ de Mars_, where he had published martial law in +consequence of a decree of the Convention, in the very place where he +had been directed by the representatives of the people to repel the +factions, he expired under the guillotine, loaded with the execration +of that same people of whom he had been the most venerated idol. + +Since those sanguinary times, the _Champ de Mars_ has chiefly been +the site chosen for the celebration of national fêtes, which, within +these few years, have assumed a character more distinguished than any +ever seen under the old _régime_. These modern Olympics consist of +chariot-races and wrestling, horse and foot races, ascensions of +balloons, carrying three or four persons, descents from them by means +of a parachute, mock-fights and aquatic tilting. After the sports of +the day, come splendid illuminations, grand fire-works, pantomimes +represented by two or three hundred performers, and concerts, which, +aided by splendid decorations, are not deficient in point of effect: +the evening concludes with dancing. + +During the existence of the directorial government, the number of +national fêtes had been considerably increased by the celebration of +party triumphs. They are at present reduced to the two great epochs +of the revolution, the taking of the Bastille on the 14th of July, +1789, and the foundation of the Republic on the 23d of September, +1792. On the anniversary of those days, the variety of the +exhibitions always attracted an immense concourse. The whole of this +mound, whose greatest diameter is upwards of eight hundred yards, was +then covered with spectators; but were the _Champ de Mars_ now used +on such occasions, they would be compelled to stand, there being no +longer any seats for their accommodation. + +The subject of national fêtes has, in this country, employed many +pens, and excited much discussion. Some say that they might be +rendered more interesting from the general arrangement; while others +affirm that they might be made to harmonize more with the affections +and habits of the people. In truth, this modern imitation of the +Greek festivals has fallen far short of those animating, +mirth-inspiring scenes, so ably described by the learned author of +Anacharsis, where, to use his own words, "every heart, eagerly bent +on pleasure, endeavoured to expand itself in a thousand different +ways, and communicated to others the impression which rendered it +happy." Whatever exertions have hitherto been made to augment the +splendour of these days of festivity, it seems not to admit of a +doubt that they are still susceptible of great improvement. If the +French have not the wine of _Naxos_, their goblets may at least +sparkle with _vin de Surenne_; the _Champs Elysées_ may supply the +place of the shady bowers of _Delos_; and, in lieu of the name of the +ill-fated NICIAS, the first promoter of the sports formerly +celebrated in that once-happy island, the air may be made to ring +with the name of the more fortunate BONAPARTE. + +[Footnote 1: _Essais historiques sur Paris_.] + +[Footnote 2: This was the name given by the soldiers to the Marshal's +favourite charger.] + + + +LETTER XLV. + +_Paris, January 6, 1802._ + +In speaking of the interior of the _Louvre_, in one of my former +letters, I think I mentioned the various learned and scientific +societies, which, under the name of Academies, formerly held their +sittings in that palace. For the sake of facilitating a comparison +between the past and the present, it may be necessary to state the +professed object of those different institutions. + +_French Academy_. The preservation of the purity of the French +language, its embellishment and augmentation. + +_Academy of Sciences_. The progress of the sciences, the +encouragement of researches and discoveries, as well in physics, +geometry, and astronomy, as in those sciences which are applicable to +the daily wants of society. + +_Academy of Inscriptions and Belles-Lettres_. The composition of +inscriptions, of the subjects of medals, and their mottos, the +research of the manners, habits, customs, and monuments of antiquity, +as well as all literature relating to history. + +_Academy of Painting and Sculpture_. +_Academy of Architecture_. +The titles of these are a sufficient explanation. + +All these academies were founded by Lewis XIV, at the instigation of +his minister Colbert; with the exception of the French Academy, which +owed its origin to Cardinal Richelieu. This was a misfortune for that +society; for custom had established it as a law that every new +member, on the day of his reception, should not only pronounce a +panegyric on him whom he succeeded, but also on the founder of the +institution. It certainly was not very philosophical for men of +enlightened understanding, and possessing even a common portion of +sensibility, to make an eulogium on a minister so cruel, a man of a +spirit so diabolically vindictive, that he even punished the innocent +to revenge himself on the guilty. De Thou, the celebrated author of +the _History of his own time_, had told some truths not very +favourable to the memory of the Cardinal's great uncle. In +consequence, the implacable minister, under false pretences, caused +the philosophic historian's eldest son to be condemned and +decapitated, saying: "De Thou, the father, has put my name into his +history, I will put the son into mine." + +It is well known, from their memoirs, that these academies included +among their members men of eminent talents. The Academy of Sciences, +in particular, could boast of several first-rate geniuses in the +different branches which they respectively cultivated, and the +unremitting labours of some of them have, no doubt, greatly +contributed to enlarge the sphere of human knowledge. During the +early part of the revolution, all these monarchical institutions were +overthrown, and on their ruins rose the + +NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF ARTS AND SCIENCES.[1] + +This establishment was formed, agreeably to a decree of the National +Assembly passed on the 3d of Brumaire, year IV (25th of October, +1796). By that decree, it appears that the Institute belongs to the +whole Republic, though its point of union is fixed in Paris. Its +object is to extend the limits of the arts and sciences in general, +by an uninterrupted series of researches, by the publication of +discoveries, by a correspondence with the learned societies of +foreign countries, and by such scientific and literary labours as +tend to general utility and the glory of the Republic. + +It is composed of one hundred and forty-four members, resident in +Paris, and of an equal number scattered over the departments. The +number of its foreign associates is twenty-four. It is divided into +three classes, and each class into several sections, namely: + +Mathematical and Physical Sciences. +Moral and Political Sciences. +Literature and the Fine Arts. +The Mathematical Class is divided into ten sections; each of which +consists of six members. Of this class, there are sixty members in +Paris, and as many in the departments, where they are divided, in the +same manner, into ten sections, each of six members. + +The first section comprehends Mathematics. +The second, Mechanical Arts. +The third, Astronomy. +The fourth, Experimental Physics. +The fifth, Chemistry. +The sixth, Natural History and Mineralogy. +The seventh, Botany and vegetable Physics. +The eighth, Anatomy and Zoology. +The ninth, Medicine and Surgery. +The tenth, Rural Economy and the Veterinary Art. + +The Moral and Political Class is divided into six sections, each +consisting of six members, making in all thirty-six members in Paris, +and an equal number in the departments. + +The first section comprises the Analysis of Sensations and Ideas. +The second, Morals. +The third, Social Science and Legislation. +The fourth, Political Economy. +The fifth, History. +The sixth, Geography. + +The Class of Literature and Fine Arts is divided into eight sections, +each of six members, forty-eight of whom reside in Paris, and as many +in the departments. + +The first section includes Grammar. +The second, Ancient Languages. +The third, Poetry. +The fourth, Antiquities and Monuments. +The fifth, Painting. +The sixth, Sculpture. +The seventh, Architecture. +The eighth, Music and Declamation. + +Twice in every decade, each class holds a meeting: that of the first +class takes place on the first and sixth days; that of the second, on +the second and seventh days; and that of the third, on the third and +eighth days. Every six months each class elects its president and two +secretaries, who continue in office during that interval. + +On the fifth day of the first decade of every month is held a general +meeting of the three classes, the purpose of which is to deliberate +on affairs, relating to the general interests of the Institute. The +chair is then taken by the oldest of the three presidents, who, at +these meetings, presides over the whole society. + +The National Institute has four public quarterly meetings, on the +15th of the months of Vendémiaire, Nivôse, Germinal, and Messidor. +Each class annually proposes two prize questions, and in the general +meetings, the answers are made public, and the premiums distributed. +The united sections of Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture nominate +the pupils who are to visit Rome, and reside there in the national +palace, at the expense of the Republic, in order to study the Fine +Arts. Conformably to the decree by which the Institute was organised, +six of its members were to travel at the public charge, with a view +of collecting information, and acquiring experience in the different +sciences; and twenty young men too were to visit foreign countries +for the purpose of studying rural economy: but the expenses of the +war and other matters have occasioned such a scarcity of money as, +hitherto, to impede these undertakings. + +The apartments of the Institute are on the first floor of the +_Louvre_, or, as it is now styled, the _Palais Nationial des Sciences +et des Arts_. These apartments, which were once inhabited by Henry +IV, are situated on the west side of that building. Before you arrive +at the hall of the Institute, you pass through a handsome +antichamber, in which are the statues of Molière, Racine, Corneille, +La Fontaine, and Montesquieu. This hall, which is oblong and +spacious, formerly served for the meetings of the Academy of +Sciences. Its sides are adorned with colonnades, and the ceiling is +richly painted and decorated. In the intercolumniations are fourteen +marble statues (seven on each side) of some of the most celebrated +men that France has produced: namely, Condé, Tourville, Descartes, +Bayard, Sully, Turenne, Daguessau, Luxembourg, L'Hôpital, Bossuet, +Duquesne, Catinat, Vauban, and Fenelon. Parallel to the walls, tables +are set, covered with green cloth, at which the members take their +places. + +At the upper end of the hall is the chair of the President, and on +each side below him are seated the two Secretaries. A little on one +side again is the tribune, from which the members who speak address +the assembly, after having asked leave of the President, who never +quits the chair during the whole meeting. The space appropriated to +the members is inclosed by a railing, between which and the walls, +the hall is surrounded by benches for the spectators, among whom +there are generally many of the fair sex. + +The library of the Institute consists of three spacious apartments, +which are said to contain about sixteen thousand volumes. On one side +of the hall is an apartment, destined for the communications of +correspondents. There is also an apartment for the secretary and his +deputies, and a large room containing a collection of machines and +models, (among which are several of shipping), as well as every +apparatus necessary for chemical and physical experiments. + +Although I have several times attended the private meetings of the +three classes, I have thought that the printed accounts of their +proceedings, which I subjoin, would be more satisfactory than a hasty +sketch from my pen. However, as I promised to describe to you one of +the public sittings of the Institute, I shall now inform you of what +passed at that held yesterday, the 15th of Nivôse, year X, (5th of +January, 1802), at which I was present. + +On this occasion, BIGOT-PRÉAMENEU, one of the members of the class of +Moral and Political Sciences, was the President. The sitting was +opened by proclaiming the nomination of three foreign associates, +elected by the Institute in its general sitting of the 5th of Nivôse; +namely, Mr. JEFFERSON, Sir JOSEPH BANKS, and HAYDN, the celebrated +musical composer. A prize was then awarded to Citizen Framery, a +literary character residing in Paris, for having solved the following +question proposed by the class of Literature and Fine Arts. "To +analyze the relations existing between music and declamation, and +determine the means of applying declamation to music, without +detracting from the charms of melody." + +DELAMBRE read an account of the life and works of Cousin. + +DÉGÉRANDO, an account of the education which the young savage of +Aveyron receives from Itard, physician to the Institution of the Deaf +and Dumb. + +PRONY, the result of observations made with a French instrument and +an English one, for the purpose of determining the relation between +the French metre and the English foot. + +Next were heard notes, by CAMUS, on the public exhibitions of the +productions of French Industry, which took place in the years VI and +IX of the Republic. + +Then, the report of the restoration of the famous picture known by +the name of the _Madonna di Foligno_, which I have already +communicated to you. + +BUACHE, the celebrated geographer, read some observations on the +ancient map of the Romans, commonly called Peutinger's map, as well +as on the geography of the anonymous writer of Ravenna. The sitting +was terminated by an account of the life and works of Dumoustier, +read by COLIN D'HARLEVILLE. + +The members of the Institute have a full-dress and a half-dress. The +former consists of a suit of black, embroidered in dark green silk, +with a cocked hat. The latter is the same, but the embroidery is +confined to the collar and cuffs of the coat, which is trimmed with a +cord edging, + +P.S. Yesterday evening was married Mademoiselle Beauharnois, +daughter-in-law of the First Consul, to Louis Bonaparte, one of his +younger brothers. + +[Footnote 1: At the end of this volume will be found the new +organization of the Institute, conformably to a decree of the +government, dated the 3d of Pluviôse, year XI.] + + + +LETTER XLVI. + +_Paris, January 7, 1802._ + +Knowing you to be an amateur of Italian music, I am persuaded that +you will wish to be made acquainted with the theatre where you may +enjoy it in full perfection. It is distinguished by the appellation +of + +OPÉRA BUFFA. + +This establishment is not new in the French metropolis. In 1788, +Paris was in possession of an excellent company of Italian comedians, +who then performed in the _Théâtre de Monsieur_, in the palace of the +_Tuileries_, which is now converted into a hall for the sittings of +the Council of State. The success of this company had a rapid +influence on the taste of the discerning part of the French public. +This was the less extraordinary as, perhaps, no Italian sovereign had +ever assembled one composed of so many capital performers. In Italy, +there are seldom more than two of that degree of merit in a company; +the rest are not attended to, because they are not worth the trouble: +but here every department was complete, and filled by persons +deservedly enjoying a high reputation in their own country; such as +MANDINI, RAFFANELLI, SIMONI, MENGOZZI, VIGANONI, ROVEDINO, and +Signoras MORICHELLI and BALETTI. + +The events of 1792 banished from Paris this admired assemblage. A new +company of Italian comedians has been formed here within these few +months: they at first occupied a charming little theatre constructed +for the use of a society, called _La Loge Olympique_; but are lately +removed to the _Théâtre Favart_, on the Boulevard. Before the +revolution, this was called _le Théâtre Italien_. The façade is +decorated with eight very large Ionic pillars. The house is of an +oval form, and the interior distribution deserving of praise, in as +much as it is far more commodious than that of any other theatre in +Paris. The audience here too is generally of a more select +description. Among the female amateurs, Madame Tallien is one of its +most constant visiters, and, in point of grace and beauty, one of its +greatest ornaments. + +At the head of this new company, may be placed RAFFANELLI, the same +whom I have just mentioned. He is a consummate comedian, and more to +be commended in that point of view than as a singer. RAFFANELLI has a +countenance to which he gives any cast he pleases: his features, from +their wonderful pliability, receive every impression: his eye is +quick; his delivery, natural and correct; and his action, easy. +Sometimes he carries his buffooneries too far, merely to excite +laughter; but as he never fails in his object, this defect may be +overlooked. His best characters are _Taddeo_ in _Il Rè Theodora_, _il +Governatore_ in _La Molinara_, the Father in _Furberia e Puntiglio_, +and the Deaf Man in _Il Matrimonio Secreto_. It is necessary to see +him in these different operas to form a just idea of the truth and +humour with which he represents them. Although he is but an +indifferent singer, his method is good, and he seizes the spirit of +the composer with perfect discrimination. In _morceaux d'ensemble_, +he is quite at home, and when he dialogues with the orchestra, he +shews much energy and feeling. Independently of these gifts, Nature +has granted to RAFFANELLI another most valuable privilege. She seems +to have exempted him from the impression of time. In 1788 and 89, I +saw him frequently, both on and off the stage; after a lapse of +upwards of twelve years, he appears again to my eyes exactly the same +man. I cannot perceive in him the smallest change. + +The tenor of the new company is LAZZARINI. His method too is very +good; he sings with taste, expression, and feeling; but his voice is +extremely weak: his powers appear exhausted; and it is only by dint +of painful efforts that he succeeds in giving to his singing those +embellishments which his taste suggests, but which lose their grace +and charm when they are laboured. In short, LAZZARINI communicates to +the audience an unpleasant sensation in proving that he has real +talents. + +Neither the same reproaches nor the same praises can be bestowed on +PARLAMAGNI. He is a good counter-tenor, but has a harshness in the +high tones, which he does not always reach with perfect justness. He +is also deficient in ease and grace. PARLAMAGNI, however, having an +advantageous person, and the air of a Frenchman, is a great favourite +with the Parisian _dilettanti_. He is a tolerably good comedian, and +in some scenes of buffoonery, his acting is natural, and his manner +free and unaffected. + +The _prima donna_ of the Italian company is Signora STRINA-SACCHI. +She possesses a fine voice, and no small share of taste, joined to +great confidence and a perfect acquaintance with the stage. Sometimes +she is rather apt to fatigue the ear by sounds too shrill, and thus +breaks the charm produced by her singing. As for her acting, it is as +extraordinary as can well be imagined; for her vivacity knows no +bounds; and her passion, no restraint. She appears to conceive +justly, to feel very warmly, and she plays in the same manner. In +her, Nature commands every thing; Art, nothing. The parts in which +she shines most, are _La Molinara_ and _Gianina_; in these, she +literally follows the impulse given her by her situation, without +concerning herself in the least, whether it is _secundum artem_; but +certain that it is natural and conformable to the character and +habits of the personage she represents. _Anima in voce_ is the +characteristic of her singing: the same epithet may be applied to her +recitative and her acting: in these she displays no less spirit and +animation. + +After Signora SACCHI, comes Signora PARLAMAGNI. She is a young, and +rather pretty woman, not unlike a French actress in her manner. Her +voice is free and clear, and her method by no means to be disdained. +She wants habit and confidence. This is evident in her performance of +a part new to her; for it is only after a few representations that +she feels herself at her ease. Then the public appreciate her powers, +which she exhibits to advantage; and her exertions are rewarded by +reiterated marks of their satisfaction. + +Unfortunately it is the nature of an Italian opera-house to have its +shelf poorly furnished. It cannot, however, be denied that the +managers of the _Opera Buffa_ take every pains to vary and increase +their stock. The following are the pieces which I have seen at this +theatre. + +_Furberia e Puntiglio_, which is a second-hand imitation of GOLDONI. +The music, by Signor MARCELLO DI CAPUA, is agreeable, particularly a +quartetto and a cavatina. RAFFANELLI shines in this piece as a +first-rate actor. + +_Il Matrimonio Secreto_, the chef-d'oeuvre of CIMAROSA, and of its +kind, perhaps, the most charming opera extant. Throughout it, the +composer has lavished beauties; there is not to be found in it an air +of inferior merit, or which, of itself alone, would not sustain the +reputation of a piece. What then can be said of a work in which they +are all united? Nothing can surpass the variety, spirit, grace, and +originality of the duos, terzettos, quartettos, &c. with which this +opera abounds. CIMAROSA has here combined the strength of German +harmony with the grace which constitutes the charm of Italian melody. +He is particularly famous for the brilliancy of his ideas, the +fecundity of his genius, the richness of his style, and, above all, +for the finish of his pictures. + +The certain effect of such a production is to eclipse every thing put +in competition with it. This effect is particularly conspicuous at +the representation of other pieces, the music of which is by the same +composer. + +_Gianina e Bernadone_, another of CIMAROSA'S productions, makes less +impression, though it is in the graceful style, what _Il Matrimonio +Secreto_ is in the serio-comic. + +_La Molinara_, however, upholds the reputation of that celebrated +composer, PAËSIELLO. This opera requires no eulogium. Selections from +it are daily repeated in the public and private concerts in Paris. +_Il Matrimonio Secreto_ is a masterpiece of spirit and originality, +while _La Molinara_ is a model of grace, melody, and simplicity. + +To the great regret of the lovers of Italian music, CIMAROSA died not +long since, just as he was preparing to visit Paris. But his fame +will long survive, as his works bear the stamp of true genius, +combined with taste and judgment. His _Italiana in Londra_ is just +announced for representation. + +_Il Matrimonio Inaspettato_, a composition of PAËSIELLO, is likewise +in rehearsal, as well as _Le Nozze di Dorina_, by SARTI, and _La +Vilanella Rapita_, by BIANCHI. MOZART too will soon enter the lists; +his _Dom Giovanni_ is to be speedily brought forward. + +The orchestra of the _Opéra Buffa_, though far from numerous, is +extremely well-composed. It accompanies the singers with an +_ensemble_, a grace, and precision deserving of the highest encomium. +BRUNI, a distinguished Italian composer, is the leader of the band, +and PARENTI, a professor, known also by several admired productions, +presides at the piano-forte. + +NEUVILLE, the manager of this theatre, is gone to Italy for the +purpose of completing the company by the addition of some eminent +performers.[1] In its present state, the _Opéra Buffa_ maintains its +ground. It is thought that the French government will assist it in +case of necessity, and even make it a national establishment; a +commissary or agent having been appointed to superintend its +proceedings. + +[Footnote 1: The _Opéra Buffa_, the constant object of the jealousy +of the other lyric theatres, because it constitutes the delight of +real amateurs of music, has, during the year 1802, acquired several +new performers. Two of these only, Madame BOLLA and MARTINELLI, +deserve particular mention. Madame BOLLA is a good figure on the +stage, and though her features are not regular, yet they are +susceptible of the most varied expression. Her voice, which is a +species of feminine _tenore_, astonishes by the purity and firmness +of its grave tones; while her brilliant and sure method easily +conceals its small extent in the higher notes. MARTINELLI is a +species of counter-tenor. His voice has already lost much of its +strength, and has not that clearness which serves as an excuse for +every thing; but connoisseurs find that he takes care to calculate +its effects so as to make amends, by the art of transitions, for that +firmness in which it is deficient. He is much applauded in the +_cantabile_, which he sings with uncommon precision, and he +particularly shines in the counter-parts which charm in the Italian +_finales_. As an actor, MARTINELLI, though inferior to RAFFANELLI, is +also remarkable. His manner is easy and natural, and his countenance +capable of assuming the most comic expression.] + + + +LETTER XLVII. + +_Paris, January 9, 1802._ + +The exaggerated accounts of the interior state of France which have +reached us, through various channels, during the late obstinate +struggle, have diffused so many contradictions, that it is by no +means surprising we still continue so ill-informed in England on many +points most intimately connected with the morals of the French +nation. Respecting none of these, have we been more essentially +mistaken than the + +PRESENT STATE OF PUBLIC WORSHIP. + +I am given to understand, from unquestionable authority, that there +are at this moment, and have been for the last four years, no less +than from thirty-five to forty thousand churches where divine service +has been regularly performed throughout the different departments of +the Republic. It is therefore a gross error to suppose that the +christian religion was extinguished in France. The recent +arrangements made between the French government and the See of Rome +will consolidate that religion, which was, in a great measure, +re-established long before his Holiness occupied the papal chair. I +shall illustrate this truth by a summary of the proceedings of the +constitutional clergy. + +The last general assembly of the clergy of France, held in 1789, the +account of which has never been printed, already presented facts +which announced that the necessity of reforming abuses was felt, and +the epoch when that reform would take place was foreseen. In this +assembly several bishops spoke with much force on the subject. + +The disastrous state of the finances, brought about by the shameful +dilapidations of the court, occasioned a deficit which it was +necessary to make good. This consideration, joined to the spirit of +cupidity, jealous of the estates of the clergy, immediately caused +every eye to turn towards that mortmain property, in order to employ +it in the liquidation of the national debt. + +In the _Moniteur_, and other journals of the time, may be seen what +successive steps gradually led to the abolition of tythes, and the +decision which placed the estates of the clergy at the disposal of +the nation. + +The civil constitution of the clergy was a severe check given to the +many existing abuses. It really brought back the Gallican church to +the discipline of the first ages. It snatched from the Pope the power +of giving the canonical institution to bishops. Those who have +thought proper to tax with novelty this constitution, have only to +look into history. They will see that, during twelve hundred years, +bishops received the canonical institution from the metropolitans, +and not from the Pope. Thus to tax with intrusion the constitutional +bishops, and condemn them because they have received that institution +from the metropolitans, is to condemn the first twelve centuries of +christianity. + +This civil constitution served as a pretext to the dignified clergy, +irritated at the loss of their estates, for concerting a combined +resistance to the new laws, in the hope that this resistance would +lead to a subversion which would restore to them their riches. Thence +the refusal of the oath "to be faithful to the nation, to the law, +and to the king, to guide faithfully the flock intrusted to their +care, and to maintain with all their power the constitution decreed +by the assembly, and sanctioned by the king." Thence the line of +division between the clergy who had taken the oath and those who had +not. + +The Constituent Assembly, who had decreed the above oath, declared, +that the refusal of giving this pledge of fidelity should be +considered as a voluntary resignation. The royal sanction had +rendered the above decree a law of the State. Almost the whole of the +bishops, a great number of rectors, and other ecclesiastics, refused +to take this oath, already taken by several among them who were +deputies to the assembly. + +They were, in consequence, declared to have resigned; and measures +were taken for supplying their place. The people proceeded to effect +this by electors authorized by law. A respectable number of +ecclesiastics, who had already submitted to the law, accepted the +elections. These priests thought that obedience to the national +authority which respected and protected religion, was a catholic +dogma. What resistance could be made to legitimate power, which +neither attacked the dogma, nor morality, nor the interior and +essential discipline of the church? It was, say they, resisting God +himself. They thought that the pastor was chosen, and sent solely for +the care of the flock intrusted to him; that, when difficult +circumstances, flight, for instance, voluntary or forced, the +prohibition from all functions, pronounced by the civil power, +rendered the holy ministry impossible, or that the pastor could not +exericise it, without declaring himself in open insurrection, the +pretended unremoveable rights then ceased with the sacred duties +which they could not discharge, without being accused of rebellion. + +The dissentient bishops drew many priests into their party. Most of +them spread themselves over Europe, where they calumniated at their +ease the patriotic clergy. Those of their adherents who had remained +in the interior of this country, kindled a civil war, tormented +people's consciences, and disturbed the peace of families, &c. This +conduct, which engendered the horrible scenes in La Vendée, provoked +repressive measures, emanated from legislative authority. + +Enemies without and within, say the constitutional clergy, wished to +create a disgust to liberty, by substituting to it licentiousness. +And, indeed, the partisans of the dissentient clergy were seen to +coalesce with the unbelievers, in order to produce the sacrilegious +disorders which broke out every where in the year 1793. + +The clergy who had taken the oath had organized the dioceses; the +bishops, in general, had bestowed great pains in spreading in every +parish the word of the gospel; for they preached themselves, and this +was more than was done by their predecessors, who, engaged only in +spending, frequently in a shameful manner, immense revenues, seldom +or never visited their dioceses. The constitutional clergy followed a +plan more conformable to the gospel, which gained them the affection +of the well-disposed part of the nation. + +These priests were of opinion that the storm which threatened +religion, required imperiously the immediate presence of the pastor, +and that, in the day of battle, it was necessary to be in person at +the breach. They were of opinion that the omission or impossibility +of fulfilling minute and empty formalities, imposed by a Concordat, +rejected from the beginning by all the public bodies and the church +of France, and annihilated at the moment by the will of the +representatives of the nation, sanctioned by royal authority, could +not exempt them from accepting holy functions presented by all the +constituted authorities, and on which evidently depended the +preservation of religion, the salvation of the faithful, and the +peace of the State. + +But, when persecution manifested itself, the clergy who had taken the +oath, became equally the victims of persecuting rage. Some failed in +this conjuncture; but the greater number remained intrepid in their +principles. Accordingly several constitutional bishops and priests +were dragged to the scaffold. If, on the one hand, the dastardly +GOBEL was guillotined, the same fate attended the respectable +EXPILLY, bishop of Quimper, AMOURETTE, bishop of Lyons, and GOUTTES, +bishop of Autun, &c. + +The dissentient clergy reproach some constitutional priests with +having married, and even with having apostatized; but they say not +that, among the dissentient, there are some who; have done the same. +If the number of the latter is smaller, it is because the greater +part of them were out of France; but what would they have done, if, +like the constitutional clergy, they had either had the axe suspended +over their head, or the guillotine accompanying all their steps? + +In England, where the French priests were not thus exposed, there are +some who have likewise married, and even some who have apostatized. + +It is well known that, amidst the terrors of impiety, GRÉGOIRE, +bishop of Blois, declared that he braved them, and remained attached +to his principles and duties, as a christian and bishop. He firmly +believed that, in doing so, he was pronouncing his sentence of death, +and, for eighteen months, he was in expectation of ascending the +scaffold. The same courage animated the majority of the +constitutional bishops and priests. They exercised secretly their +ministry, and consoled the faithful. As soon as the rage for +persecution began to abate, GRÉGOIRE and some other bishops, who had +kept up a private correspondence with the clergy of various dioceses +for the purpose of encouraging them, concerted together in order to +reorganize worship. In Nivôse year III (January 1795), GRÉGOIRE +demanded this liberty of worship of the National Convention. He was +very sure of meeting with outrages, and he experienced some; but to +speak in the tribune, was speaking to France and to all Europe, and, +in the then state of things, he was almost certain of staggering +public opinion, which would force the Convention to grant the free +exercise of religion. Accordingly, some time after having refused the +liberty of worship on the demand of GRÉGOIRE, that assembly granted +it, though with evident reluctance, on a Report of BOISSY D'ANGLAS, +which insulted every species of worship. + +The constitutional bishops had already anticipated this moment by +their writings and their pastoral letters, &c. They then compiled two +works, entitled _Lettres Encycliques_, to which the bishops and +priests of the various dioceses adhered. The object of these works, +which are monuments of wisdom, piety, and courage, was to reorganize +public worship in all the dioceses, according to the principles of +the primitive church. They pronounced a formal exclusion from +ecclesiastical functions against all prevaricating priests or married +ones, as well as all those who had the cowardice to deliver up their +authority for preaching, and abdicate their functions. Some +interested persons thought this too severe. Those bishops persisted +in their decision, and, by way of answer, they reprinted a +translation of the celebrated treatise of St. Cyprian de Lapsis. On +all sides, they reanimated religions zeal, caused pastors for the +various sees to be elected by the people, and consecrated by the +metropolitan bishops. They held synods, the arts of which form a +valuable collection, equally honourable to their zeal and knowledge. +They did more. + +For a long time past the custom of holding councils had fallen into +disuse. They convoked a national council, notwithstanding the +unfavourableness of a silent persecution; and, in spite of the penury +which afflicted the pastors, the latter had the courage to expose +themselves in order to concur in it. This council was opened with the +greatest solemnity on the 15th of August, 1797, the day of the +Assumption of the Virgin. It sat for three months. The canons and +decrees of this assembly, which have been translated into Italian and +German, have been printed in one volume. + +This council was published in the different dioceses, and its +regulations were put into force. During this time, the government, +ever hostile to religion, had not abandoned the project of +persecuting and perhaps of destroying it. The voice of the public, +who called for this religion, and held in esteem the constitutional +clergy as religious and patriotic, checked, in some respects, the +hatred of the Directory and its agents. Then the spirit of +persecution took a circuitous way to gain its end: this was to cry +down religion and its ministers, to promote theophilanthropy, and +enforce the transferring of Sunday to the _décade_, or tenth day of +every republican month. + +The bishops, assembled at Paris, again caused this project to +miscarry, and, in their name, GRÉGOIRE compiled two consultations +against the transferring of Sunday to the _décade_. The adhesion of +all the clergy was the fruit of his labour; but all this drew on him +numerous outrages, the indigence to which he was at that time +reduced, and multiplied threats of deportation. The functions which +he had discharged, and the esteem of the friends of religion, formed +around him a shelter of opinion that saved him from deportation, to +which were condemned so many unfortunate and virtuous constitutional +priests, who were crowded, with the refractory among others, into +vessels lying in the road of Rochefort. + +GRÉGOIRE remonstrated against this grievance, and obtained an +alleviation for his brethren; but it is to be remarked that, in +giving an account of their enlargement, the dissentient priests have +taken good care not to mention to whom they were indebted for having +provoked in their behalf this act of humanity and justice. + +The constitutional clergy continued their labours, struggling +incessantly against calumny and libels, either from their dissentient +brethren or from the agents of the directorial government. This +clergy convoked a second national council for the year 1801. It was +preceded by a vast number of synods, and by eight metropolitan +councils. + +This second national council was opened at Paris on St. Peter's day +of the same year. Several decrees had already been carried, one of +which renewed, in the face of the whole church, the example of the +bishops of Africa, by a solemn invitation of the dissentients to +conferences for the grand affair which separated them from the +constitutional clergy. The different congregations were on the point +of presenting to the general meeting their labours on the dogma, +morality, and discipline. A report on the liturgy by GRÉGOIRE, bishop +of Blois and vice-president of the council; and a similar report on +the plan of education for ecclesiastics, occupied the members of this +assembly, when all at once the government manifested its wish to see +the council closed, on account of the Concordat which it had just +arranged with the Pope. + +Notwithstanding this proceeding, which trenched on the rights of a +national church, the fathers of the council suspended their +remonstrances, in order not to afford any pretext to those who might +have wished to perpetuate religious troubles. Wherefore, after having +sat six weeks and pronounced the suspension of the national council, +&c. they separated quietly without quitting Paris. + +Their presence was necessary for the execution of the decree of the +conferences. The eighteen members destined for that purpose by the +council, after having held several meetings, presented themselves at +the Cathedral of _Notre-Dame_, the place appointed and proclaimed by +the council throughout all the extent of France. For three successive +days, morning and evening, they there assembled. At the expiration of +that time, on seeing that the dissentient kept themselves concealed, +the members of the constitutional clergy took for witnesses of this +generous and open proceeding the vast body of people who had repaired +to _Notre-Dame_, and by two energetic and moving discourses, +delivered by BELMAY, bishop of Carcassonne, and GRÉGOIRE, bishop of +Blois, terminated the council after the accustomed prayers. + +M. SPINA, archbishop of Corinth, charged by the court of Rome with +part of the affairs to be transacted with the First Consul, about the +middle of September, sent to the constitutional bishops a brief which +he announced to come from Pius VII, in order to induce them on the +part of the Pope to give up the episcopal sees they had occupied, and +return to unity. An invitation so insulting, received by all these +bishops, drew on M. SPINA energetic answers, which made the Pope and +himself sensible how wrong they were to accuse of intrusion and +schism bishops, whose canonical institution was conformable to that +of the bishops of the first twelve centuries, and who had always +professed the warmest love for catholic unity. + +But as there was little good to be expected from M. SPINA, some +bishops made their complaints to the government in a spirited and +well-composed memorial, denouncing the Pope's brief as an attack on +the liberties of the Gallican church and the rights of the Republic. +This measure had its effect. The government passed a decree for +prohibiting the publication of the Rescripts of Rome, if they should +not be found conformable to the rules and usages observed in France. + +During these transactions, the Cardinal Legate, CAPRARA, arrived in +Paris. The Concordat had just been signed. The constitutional +bishops, without remonstrating against it, no sooner learnt that the +government wished them to resign, than they hastened to do so, the +more willingly, as they had a thousand times made the promise +whenever the good of religion and of the country should require it. A +similar generosity was expected on the part of the emigrated bishops. +Have they been to blame in refusing? This question may, in a great +measure, depend on the arrangement of the Concordat, and the +imperious and menacing tone of the court of Rome which demanded of +them the resignation of their former sees.[1] + +[Footnote 1: For the gratification of the reader is here annexed an +account of the Pope's conduct in regard to the constitutional clergy, +since the promulgation of the Concordat. + +At length the nominations took place. A small number of those +appointed to the sixty new dioceses, were taken from the +constitutional clergy. The others were taken from the mass of the +refractory and those who had retracted, and the greater number formed +the most eloquent apology of the constitutional bishops. They all +received the institution from the Pope, who announced it with an air +of triumph to the college of Cardinals, in his collocution of the +24th of May, 1802. He had good reason to congratulate himself at this +epoch, the more so as he had been made to believe that the re-elected +constitutional clergy had made a retraction, and received penitence +and absolution. The author of this calumny was BERNIER, who had been +charged by the Cardinal Legate with a step so worthy of his former +military exploits. It was solemnly contradicted. After the decree of +absolution which BERNIER had ventured to present to these bishops was +thrown with indignation into the fire of PORTALIS, the counsellor of +state charged by the government with religious affairs, who was +witness to the transaction. Indeed, he had in this encouraged the +bishops to imitate his own example in getting rid, by the same means, +of a brief which the Legate had transmitted to him in order to +absolve him from the guilt he might have incurred by taking part in +the revolution. + +The government wished to pacify religious troubles; but the majority +of the dissentient bishops began to foment new disputes, by requiring +retractations from the constitutional clergy, who, for the most part, +have stood firm amidst privations of every description. However, the +mischief made not the progress which there was every reason to +apprehend: the government pronounced its opinion thereon by +prohibiting bishops from requiring any thing more than submission to +the Concordat, and obedience to the new bishops. Notwithstanding the +wise intentions of the government, sincerely desirous of peace and +concord, it is only in the dioceses fallen to the constitutional +bishops that a good understanding prevails. Most of the disentient +clergy continue to promote discord, and torment their constitutional +brethren. BOISCHOLLET, bishop of Séez, MONTAULT, bishop of Angers, +and some others, have been sent for to Paris, in order to be +reprimanded and cautioned to behave better. + +It is proper to mention the documents which Cardinal CAPRARA has +distributed to all the bishops. They form a collection of thirteen +papers, which might not improperly be called an analysis of the +decretals of Isidorus. On these, no doubt, good canonists will debate +at some future day, in order to shame the court of Rome, by pointing +out its absurdities and blunders; and certainly the respect which +catholics owe to the Holy See ought not to prevent then from +resisting the pretensions of the Pope.] + + + +LETTER XLVIII. + +_Paris, January 10, 1802._ + +Going the other day to call on M. S----i, I stopped by the way, to +examine an edifice which, when I first visited Paris in 1784, engaged +no small share of public attention. It was, at that time, one of the +principal objects pointed out to the curiosity of strangers. At one +period of the revolution, you will, doubtless, recollect the frequent +mention made of the + +PANTHEON. + +Conceive my surprise, on learning that this stately building, after +having employed the hands of so many men, for the best part of half a +century, was not only still unfinished; but had threatened +approaching ruin. Yes--like the Gothic abbey at Fonthill, it would, +by all accounts, have fallen to the ground, without the aid of +vandalism, had not prompt and efficacious measures been adopted, to +avert the impending mischief. + +This monument, originally intended for the reception of the shrine of +St. Geneviève, once the patroness of the Parisians, is situated on an +eminence, formerly called _Mont St. Étienne_, to the left of the top +of the _Rue St. Jacques_, near the _Place de l'Estrapade_. It was +begun under the reign of Lewis XV, who laid the first stone on the +6th of September, 1764. During the American war, the works were +suspended; but, early in the year 1784, they were resumed with +increasing activity. The sculpture of this church already presented +many attributes analogous to its object, when, in 1793, it was +converted into a Pantheon. + +The late M. SOUFFLOT furnished the plan for the church, which, in +point of magnificence, does honour both to the architect and to the +nation. + +Its form is a Greek cross, three hundred and forty feet in length by +two hundred and fifty in breadth. The porch, which is an imitation of +that of the Pantheon at Rome, consists of a peristyle of twenty-two +pillars of the Corinthian order. Eighteen of these are insulated, and +are each five feet and a half in diameter by fifty-eight in height, +including their base and capital. They support a pediment, which +combines the boldness of the Gothic with the beauty of the Greek +style. This pediment bears the following inscription: + + "AUX GRANDS HOMMES, + LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE." + +In the delirium of the revolutionary fever, when great crimes +constituted great men, this sanctuary of national gratitude was +polluted. MARAT, that man of blood, was, to use the modern +phraseology, _pantheonized_, that is, interred in the Pantheon. When +the delirium had, in some measure, subsided, and reason began to +resume her empire, he was _dispantheonized_; and, by means of +quick-lime, his canonized bones were confounded with the dust. +This apotheosis will ever be a blot in the page of the history of +the revolution. + +However, it operated as a check on the inconsiderate zeal of +hot-brained patriots in bestowing the honours of the Pantheon on +the undeserving. MIRABEAU was, consequently, _dispantheonized_; and, +in all probability, this temple will, in future, be reserved for the +ashes of men truly great; legislators whose eminent talents and +virtues have benefited their fellow-citizens, or warriors, who, by +distinguishing themselves in their country's cause, have really +merited that country's gratitude. + +The interior of this temple consists of four naves, in whose centre +rises an elegant dome, which, it is said, is to be painted in fresco +by DAVID. The naves are decorated by one hundred and thirty fluted +pillars, also of the Corinthian order, supporting an entablature, +which serves as a base for lofty _tribunes_, bordered by stone +balustrades. These pillars are three feet and a half in diameter by +nearly twenty-eight feet in height. + +The inside of the dome is incircled by sixteen Corinthian pillars, +standing at an equal distance, and lighted by glazed apertures in +part of the intercolumniations. They support a cupola, in the centre +of which is an opening, crowned by another cupola of much more +considerable elevation. + +To survey the interior of the Pantheon, in its present state, is +rather a matter of eager curiosity than of pleasing enjoyment. The +precautions taken to prevent the fall of the whole building, which +was apprehended from the almost tottering state of the dome, have +necessitated the erection of such a quantity of scaffolding, that it +is no easy task to gain an uninterrupted view of its majestic +pillars, of the delicate and light foliage of its capitals, and of +its proud and triple canopy. I mounted the ladders, and braved the +dust of stone and plaster, amidst the echoing sound of saws, chisels, +and mallets, at work in different directions. + +Mercier is said to have offended several of the partisans of Voltaire +by observing that, through a strange inconsistency, the constant +flatterer not only of royalty in general, but of kings in particular, +and of all the great men and vices of the age in which he lived, here +shares the gratitude of a republic with the _man of nature and +truth_, as Jean-Jacques is styled on his sepulchral monument. Thus, +in the first instance, says he, a temple, consecrated to stern +republican virtue, contains the remains of a great poet who could not +strike superstition, without wounding morals.--Unquestionably, the +_Pucelle_ is a work, which, like a blight on a promising crop, has +committed incalculable ravage among the rising generation. +Notwithstanding the numerous inscriptions which now adorn the tomb of +Voltaire, perhaps, at some future distant period, he may experience +the fate of Mirabeau, and be _dispantheonized_. + +But why meddle with the cold remains of any great genius? Would it +not have been more rational to inscribe the name of Rousseau in this +national temple, and leave his corpse to rot undisturbed, in the _Ile +des Peupliers_, at Ermenonville. + +Though circumstances prevented me from ascending to the dome, you +will, no doubt, expect me to say something of its exterior +architecture. It represents a circular temple, formed by thirty-four +pillars, like those of the interior, of the Corinthian order, and +each, base and capital included, thirty-four feet in height by three +feet and one third in diameter. This colonnade is supported by a +circular stylobate, which rests on an octagon base, and is surrounded +by a gallery, bordered by an iron balustrade. The cupola, rising +above the attic, would appear crushed, were not a stranger apprised +that the pedestal on the top is to be surmounted by a bronze figure +of Fame, twenty-eight feet in height, and weighing fifty-two thousand +pounds. The pedestal is encircled by a second gallery at an elevation +of one hundred and sixty-six feet, to reach which you ascend a flight +of four hundred and sixty stone steps. As the Pantheon itself stands +on a considerable eminence, the prospect from this gallery is +extensive and commanding. + +This sumptuous edifice may truly be said to exhibit a monument of the +weakness of man. Like him, before arrived at maturity, it is attacked +by indisposition. The architects, like so many physicians, were not +for some time agreed as to the seat of the evil. Each proposed his +means of cure as the most infallible; But all coincided in one +opinion, that the danger was imminent. Their skill has been exerted, +and, no doubt, with effect; for all apprehension of further mischief +is now removed. + +When I was taking a last look at this proud temple, I could not help +regretting that one half of the money already expended on it, had not +been appropriated to the erection of airy hospitals in the different +quarters of this populous city. Any one who had formerly visited the +_Hôtel-Dieu_ in Paris would, I am confident, have participated in +this sentiment. + +What strange fatality impels men to persevere in such unprofitable +erections? This was the first question which suggested itself to me, +on getting fairly out of the Pantheon. Is it to gratify an excess of +national vanity, or create a superior degree of admiration in the +mind of foreigners? If so, the aim is missed: for, as majesty, fallen +from the pinnacle of power, becomes more interesting, so do ruins +inspire greater veneration than the most pompous structure, towering +in the splendour of its perfection. Experience tells us that every +truncated pillar, every remnant, in short, of past grandeur, rouses +attention, and speaks home to the contemplative mind; while these +modern edifices, however firmly erect on their base, excite, +comparatively speaking, but a feeble interest. In future ages, +perhaps, when the Pantheon of Paris shall be prostrate on the ground, +and the wreck of its stately dome be overrun with moss and ivy, it +may, probably, attract as much notice as the far-tamed temple of +Jupiter-Ammon. + +P.S. On the evening of the 8th, BONAPARTE left Paris for Lyons, where +TALLEYRAND, Minister for foreign affairs, has been for some days +preparing for the great event which is expected to take place. When a +public measure is in agitation, the result is generally anticipated +by the eagerness of mankind; and whispers the least audible are +magnified into authentic information. Those even who may be presumed +to derive their intelligence from the best sources, not unfrequently +misconceive what they have heard, and consequently mislead others. I +will not, however, mislead you, by repeating any of the rumours in +circulation here: in a short time, the _Moniteur_ will, no doubt, +explain the real object of this journey. + + + +LETTER XLIX. + +_Paris, January 12,1802._ + +As no city in Europe presents so many advantages as this for the +cultivation of literature, arts, and sciences, it is not surprising +that it should contain great numbers of literati, artists, and men of +science, who form themselves into different associations. +Independently of the National Institute, Paris can boast of several +other + +SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. + +The following are the names of those held in most esteem. + +SOCIÉTÉ PHILOTECHNIQUE. +SOCIÉTÉ LIBRE DES SCIENCES, LETTRES, ET ARTS. +ATHÉNÉE (_ci-devant_ LYCÉE) DES ARTS. +SOCIÉTÉ PHILOMATIQUE. +SOCIÉTÉ ACADÉMIQUE DES SCIENCES. +SOCIÉTÉ GALVANIQUE. +SOCIÉTÉ DES BELLES-LETTRES. +ACADÉMIE DE LÉGISLATION. +OBSERVATEURS DE L'HOMME. +ATHÉNÉE DE PARIS, _ci-devant_ LYCÉE RÉPUBLICAIN. + +Though, in all these societies, you may meet with a great number of +estimable men, many of whose names may be found in the major part of +them, yet that which holds the first rank in the public esteem, as +well from the respectability of the members of whom it is composed, +as from the proofs of talents which are necessary in order to be +admitted into it, is the + +SOCIÉTÉ PHILOTECHNIQUE. + +Indeed, almost all its members are men whose works hove rendered them +celebrated throughout Europe. Hitherto, with the exception of the +National Institute, this is the only society to which the government +has granted the honour of receiving it as a body, or by deputation, +on solemn occasions; and by that alone, it has _nationalized_, at +least tacitly, its institution. It is also the only one which, to the +present moment, has preserved the right of holding its public and +private sittings in the _Louvre_, since that palace has been ordered +to be wholly evacuated. A report has been spread that the hall of the +_ci-devant_ French Academy is destined for it; but as yet nothing is +determined in this respect. + +Its number is confined to sixty resident members, and twenty free +associates or veterans. It is necessary to have been ten years among +the resident members, in order to have a right to be admitted into +the number of the twenty free associates, who enjoy prerogatives, +without being bound to take a part in the labours of the society. +This favour, however, may be granted to those who are for a time +called from Paris by public functions, such as embassies, +prefectures, &c. + +This society meets on the 2nd, 12th and 22nd of every month at seven +o'clock in the evening. Its various committees have their particular +days for assembling. Its officers consist of a President, a +Vice-President, a general and perpetual Secretary, a temporary +Secretary, a Treasurer, and a Keeper of the records. + +It holds its public sittings at noon on the last Sunday of the second +month of every _trimestre_, or quarter of the republican year, +namely, Brumaire, Pluviôse, Floréal, and Thermidor. + +It is composed of men of science, literati, and artists; but, +resembling a family rather than a society, its principles of +friendship admit of no classes. On the 19th of every month, it +celebrates its foundation by an entertainment, at which its members +have the liberty of introducing their friends. + +It reckons among its members, in the Sciences, LACÉPÈDE, FOURCROY, +CUVIER, GEOFFROY, ROTROU, RUEL, LE CLERC, GAUTHEROT, GINGEMBRE, &c. + +In Literature, BOUFFLERS, LEGOUVÉ, ANDRIEUX, JOSEPH LAVALLÉE, MARIUS +ARNAUD, SICARD, GUILLARD, GUICHARD, FRANÇOIS DE NEUFCHÂTEAU, +MARGOURIT, RENAUD DE ST. JEAN-D'ANGELY, AMAURY and ALEXANDRE DUVAL, +SAY, DESPRÉS, MARSOLIER, BROUSSE, DES FAUCHERETS, PIGAULT LE BRUN, +POUGENS, FRAMERY, COLIN D'HARLEVILLE, LA CHABEAUSSIÈRE, &c. + +In the Arts, viz. Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, Music, +Declamation, and Dancing, REGNAULT, VALENCIENNES, SILVESTRE the +Father, BARBIER the elder, BARTHELEMY, SAUVAGE, LETHIERS, PAJOU, +CHAUDET, NORRY, LEGRAND, BIENAIMÉ, DECOTTE, director of the medals, +FOUBERT, honorary administrator of the Central Museum, LA RIVE the +tragedian, GOSSEC, MARTINI, LE SUEUR, GAVAUX, KALKBRUMER, ADRIEN the +elder, GARDEL, &c. + +The general and perpetual Secretary is JOSEPH LAVALLÉE. + +SOCIÉTÉ, LIBRE DES. SCIENCES, LETTRES, ET ARTS. + +It is composed of the junction of the old _Museum of Paris_ and of +the Society called that of the _Nine Sisters_. It is divided into +classes, is unlimited in the number of its members, admits associated +correspondents and foreigners, holds its private sittings at the +_Oratoire_ in the _Rue St. Honoré_, every Thursday, and its public +ones at six o'clock in the evening on the 9th of the first months of +the _trimestre_; namely, Vendémiaire, Nivôse, Germinal, and Messidor. +Its officers consist of a President, taken alternately from the three +classes, of two temporary Secretaries, a Treasurer, and a Keeper of +the records. + +This Society is modelled a little too much after the Institute, and +it is easy to see that the former aims at rivaling the latter. This +_esprit de corps_, which cannot well be perceived but by nice +observers, has this advantage; it inspires a sort of emulation. But +the society having neglected to limit the number of its members, and +having thereby deprived itself of the means of appearing difficult as +to admission, it thence results that its labours are not equally +stamped with the impression of real talent; and if, in fact, it be +ambitious, that is a great obstacle to its views. + +ATHENÉE (_ci-devant_ LYCÉE) DES ARTS.[1] + +In imitation of our Royal Society, it comprises not only the +sciences, literature, and the arts, but also arts and trades, +mechanics, inventions, &c. Its members are not idle, and they are a +useful body, as they excite emulation by medals, civic crowns, +premiums, and rewards. Their number is considerable and unlimited; a +condition which is an evil in the last-mentioned society, and a good +in this, whose nature is not so much to shine as to encourage +industry. + +It was for a while in disrepute, because DESAUDRAY, the director who +founded it, exercised over it a tyrannic sway; it has succeeded in +getting rid of him, and, since then, several persons of merit, who +had before kept aloof, aspire to the honour of being admitted into +it. + +For some time past it has adopted a custom, too obsequious and +absurd, of choosing none but ministers for its Presidents. By this, +it exposes its liberty and its opinion, and gives itself chains, the +weight of which it will feel some day, when too late to shake them +off. + +It holds its general sittings at the _Oratoire_ every Monday, when it +hears the reports of its numerous committees, who have their +particular days for meeting. Its public sittings are held at the same +place, but at no fixed periods. + +Its officers consist of a President, a Vice-President, two +Secretaries, three Conservators, a Treasurer, and a Keeper of the +records. + +It has associated correspondents throughout Europe. + +SOCIÉTÉ PHILOMATIQUE. + +It is wholly devoted to natural, physical, and mathematical sciences. +It assembles on Fridays, in the _Rue d'Anjou_, _Faubourg St. +Germain_. It has no public sittings; but is merely a private meeting +of men of learning, who publish once a month a _bulletin_ very +important to the sciences, and to be commended, besides, for its +composition, perspicuity, and conciseness. This publication is of a +4to size, consists of a single sheet of print, and has for its title +_Bulletin des Sciences par la Société Philomatique_. + +SOCIÉTÉ ACADÉMIQUE DES SCIENCES. + +This Society is recently formed: It employs itself on the Sciences +only; has not yet held any public sittings, nor published any +memoirs. Consequently, nothing can yet be said of its labours, or +interior regulation. + +SOCIÉTÉ GALVANIQUE. + +Its name indicates the sole object of its labours. It is newly +formed, and composed of men eminently distinguished in Medicine and +Physics. It has called in a few literati. Its officers are the same +in the other Societies. It holds its sittings at the _Oratoire_ every +Tuesday at eleven o'clock in the morning. Its labours are pursued +with ardour and it has already made several important experiments. It +announces zeal, and talents, as well as-great defects, and aspires to +fame, perhaps, a little too much; but it may still maintain its +ground. + +SOCIÉTÉ DES BELLES-LETTRES. + +It is somewhat frivolous. Public sittings every month. Half poetry, +half music. It meets at the _Oratoire_ every Wednesday at seven +o'clock in the evening. It arose from a small emigration of the +_Lycée des Arts_, at this day _l'Athénée_, during the tyranny of +DESAUDRAY, and originally bore the title of _Rosati_. A few men of +merit, a great number of youths, and some useless members. Too many +futile readings, too many fugitive verses, too many little +rivalships. It is faulty on account of its regulations, the basis of +which is weak, and it exhibits too much parsimony in its expenses. It +has not enough of that public consideration which perpetuates +establishments of this description. Under such circumstances, it is +to be apprehended that it will not support itself. + +ACADÉMIE DE LÉGISLATION. + +This is a fine institution, recently founded. It is composed of the +most celebrated lawyers, and a few distinguished literati. It meets +on the first of every month, gives every day courses of lectures on +all the branches of jurisprudence to a great number of pupils; has +established conferences, where these pupils form themselves to the +art of speaking, by pleading on given points of law. It publishes two +periodical works every month, the one entitled, _Bulletin de +Jurisprudence_ and the other, _Annales de Jurisprudence._ The +preliminary discourse of the first volume of the latter is by JOSEPH +LAVALLÉE, and has done him considerable credit. He is, however, a +literary character, and not a lawyer. + +This academy has officers of the same description as those of the +other Societies. Senator LANJUINAIS is the President at this moment. +It occupies the _Hôtel de la Briffe_, _Quai Voltaire_. + +SOCIÉTÉ DES OBSERVATEURS DE L'HOMME. + +It assembles at the _Hôtel de la Rochefoucauld_, _Rue de Seine_, +_Faubourg St. Germain,_ and is composed of very estimable men. Its +labours, readings, and discussions are too metaphysical. In point of +officers, it is formed like the other Societies. Citizen JUAFFRET is +perpetual Secretary. + +ATHÉNÉE DE PARIS, _ci-devant_ LYCÉE RÉPUBLICAIN. + +This society has survived the revolutionary storm, having been +established as far back as the year 1787. According to the +_programme_ published for the present year 1802, its object is to +propagate the culture of the sciences and literature; to make known +the useful improvements in the arts; to afford pleasure to persons of +all ages, by presenting to every one such attractions as may suit his +taste, and to unite in literary conferences the charms of the mildest +of human occupations. + +To strangers, the _Athénée_ holds out many advantages. On being +presented by one of the founders or a subscriber, and paying the +annual subscription of 96 francs, you receive an admission-ticket, +which, however, is not transferrable. This entitles you to attend +several courses of lectures by some of the most eminent professors, +such as FOURCROY, CUVIER, LA HARPE, DÉGÉRANDO, SUË, HASSENFRATZ, +LEGRAND, &c. The subjects for the year are as follows: + +Experimental Physics, Chymistry, Natural History, Anatomy and +Physiology, Botany, Technology or the application of sciences to arts +and trades, Literature, Moral Philosophy, Architecture, together with +the English, Italian, and German languages. + +The lectures are always delivered twice, and not unfrequently thrice +a day, in a commodious room, provided with all the apparatus +necessary for experiments. On a Sunday, an account of the order in +which they are to be given in the course of the following week, is +sent to every subscriber. There is no half-subscription, nor any +admission _gratis_; but ladies pay no more than 48 francs for their +annual ticket. + +Independently of so many sources of instruction, the _Athénée_, as is +expressed in the _programme_, really affords to subscribers the +resources and charms of a numerous and select society. The +apartments, which are situated near the _Palais du Tribunat_, in the +_Rue du Lycée_, are open to them from nine o'clock in the morning to +eleven at night. Several rooms are appropriated to conversation; one +of which, provided with a piano-forte and music, serves as a +rendezvous for the ladies. The subscribers have free access to the +library, where they find the principal literary and political +journals and papers, both French and others, as well as every new +publication of importance. A particular room, in which silence is +duly observed, is set apart for reading. + +[Footnote 1: This Society has laid aside the title of _Lyceum_ since +the decree of the government, which declares that this denomination +is to be applied only to the establishments for public instruction.] + + + +LETTER L. + +_Paris, January 13, 1802._ + +I have spoken to you of palaces, museum, churches, bridges, public +gardens, playhouses, &c. as they have chanced to fall under my +observation; but there still remain houses of more than one +description which I have not yet noticed, though they are certainly +more numerous here than in any other city in Europe. I shall now +speak of + +COFFEEHOUSES. + +Their number in Paris has been reckoned to exceed seven hundred; but +they are very far from enjoying a comparative degree of reputation. +Celebrity is said to be confined to about a dozen only, which have +risen into superior consequence from various causes. Except a few +resorted to by the literati or wits of the day, or by military +officers, they are, in general, the rendezvous of the idle, and the +refuge of the needy. This is so true, that a frequenter of a +coffeehouse scarcely ever lights a fire in his own lodging during the +whole winter. No sooner has he quitted his bed, and equipped himself +for the day, than he repairs to his accustomed haunt, where he +arrives about ten o'clock in the morning, and remains till eleven at +night, the hour at which coffeehouses are shut up, according to the +regulation of the police. Not unfrequently persons of this +description make a cup of coffee, mixed with milk, with the addition +of a penny-roll, serve for dinner; and, be their merit what it may, +they are seldom so fortunate as to be consoled by the offer of a rich +man's table. + +Here, no person who wishes to be respected, thinks of lounging in a +coffeehouse, because it not only shews him to be at a loss to spend +his time, which may fairly be construed into a deficiency of +education or knowledge, but also implies an absolute want of +acquaintance with what is termed good company. Certain it is that, +with the exceptions before-mentioned, a stranger must not look for +good company in a coffee-house in Paris; if he does, he will find +himself egregiously disappointed. + +Having occasion to see an advertisement in an English newspaper, I +went a few evenings ago to one of the most distinguished places of +this sort in the _Palais du Tribunat_: the room was extremely +crowded. In five minutes, one of the company whom I had seen taking +out his watch on my entrance, missed it; and though many of the +by-standers afterwards said they had no doubt that a person of +gentlemanly exterior, who stood near him, had taken it, still it +would have been useless to charge that person with the fact, as the +watch had instantly gone through many hands, and the supposed +accomplices had been observed to decamp with uncommon expedition. +What diverted me not a little, was that the person suspected coolly +descanted on the imprudence of taking out a valuable watch in a crowd +of strangers; and, after declaiming the most virulent terms against +the dishonesty of mankind; he walked away very quietly. +Notwithstanding his appearance and manner were so much in his favour, +he had no sooner affected his retreat than some subalterns of the +police, not thief-takers, but _mouchards_ or spies, some of whom are +to be met with in every principal coffeehouse, cautioned the master +of the house against suffering his presence in future, as he was a +notorious adventurer. + +You must not, however, imagine from this incident, that a man cannot +enter a coffeehouse in Paris, without being a sufferer from the +depredations of the nimble-fingered gentry. Such instances are not, I +believe, very frequent here; and though it is universally allowed +that this capital abounds with adventurers and pickpockets of every +description, I am of opinion that there is far less danger to be +apprehended from them than from their archetypes in London. Everyone +knows that, in our refined metropolis, a lady of fashion cannot give +a ball or a rout, without engaging Mr. Townsend, or some other Bow +street officer, to attend in her ball, in order that his presence may +operate as a check on the audacity of knavish intruders. + +The principle coffeehouses here are fitted up with taste and +elegance. Large mirrors form no inconsiderable part of their +decoration. There are no partitions to divide them into boxes. The +tables are of marble; the benches and stools are covered with Utrecht +velvet. In winter, an equal degree of warmth is preserved in them by +means of a large stove in the centre, which, from its figure, is an +ornamental piece of furniture; while, in summer, the draught of air +which it maintains, contributes not a little to cool the room. In the +evening, they are lighted by _quinquets_ in a brilliant manner. + +Formerly, every coffeehouse in Paris used to have its chief orator; +in those of the more remote part of the suburbs you might, I am +informed, hear a journeyman tailor or shoemaker hold forth on various +topics. With the revolution, politics were introduced; but, at the +present day, that is a subject which seems to be entirely out of the +question. + +In some coffeehouses, where literati and critics assemble, authors +and their works are passed in review, and to each is assigned his +rank and estimation. When one of these happens to have been checked +in his dramatic career by an _undiscerning_ public, he becomes, in +his turn, the most merciless of critics. + +In many of these places, the "busy hum" is extremely tiresome; +German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, Danish, Russ, together with English +and French, all spoken at the same time and in the same room, make a +confusion of tongues as great almost as that which reigned at Babel. +In addition to the French newspapers, those of England and Germany +may be read; but as they are often bespoke by half a dozen persons in +succession, it requires no small degree of patience to wait while +these quidnuncs are conning over every paragraph. + +Independently of coffee, tea, and chocolate, ices, punch and liqueurs +may be had in the principal coffeehouses; but nothing in the way of +dinner or supper, except at the subterraneous ones in the _Palais du +Tribunat_, though there are many of a rather inferior order where +substantial breakfasts in the French style are provided. Whether +Voltaire's idea be just, that coffee clears the brain, and stimulates +the genius, I will not pretend to determine: but if this be really +the case, it is no wonder that the French are so lively and full of +invention; for coffee is an article of which they make an uncommon +consumption. Indeed, if Fame may be credited, the prior of a +monastery in Arabia, on the word of a shepherd who had remarked that +his goats were particularly frisky when they had eaten the berries of +the coffee-tree, first made a trial of their virtue on the monks of +his convent, in order to prevent them from sleeping during divine +service. + +Be this as it may, Soliman Aga, ambassador of the Porte to Lewis XIV, +in 1669, was the first who introduced the use of coffee in Paris. +During a residence of ten years in the French capital, he had +conciliated the friendship of many persons of distinction, and the +ladies in particular took a pleasure in visiting him. According to +the custom of his country, he presented them with coffee; and this +beverage, however disgusting from its colour and bitterness, was well +received, because it was offered by a foreigner, in beautiful china +cups, on napkins ornamented with gold fringe. On leaving the +ambassador's parties, each of the guests, in the enthusiasm of +novelty, cried up coffee, and took means to procure it. A few years +after, (in 1672) one Paschal, an Armenian, first opened, at the +_Foire St. Germain_, and, afterwards on the _Quai de l'École_, a shop +similar to those which he had seen in the Levant, and called his new +establishment _café_. Other Levantines followed his example; but, to +fix the fickle Parisian, required a coffeeroom handsomely decorated. +PROCOPE acted on this plan, and his house was successively frequented +by Voltaire, Piron, Fontenelle, and St. Foix. + +As drinking, which was then in vogue, was pursued less on account of +the pleasure which it afforded, than for the sake of society, the +French made no hesitation in deserting the tavern for the +coffeehouse. But, in making this exchange, it has been remarked, by +the observers of the day, that they have not only lost their taste +for conviviality, but are become more reserved and insincere than +their forefathers, whose hearts expanded by the free use of the +generous juice of the grape; thus verifying the old maxim, _in vino +veritas._ + +No small attraction to a Parisian coffeehouse is a pretty female to +preside in the bar, and in a few I have seen very handsome women; +though this post is commonly assigned to the mistress or some +confidential female relation. Beset as they are from morn to night by +an endless variety of flatterers, the virtue of a Lucretia could +scarcely resist such incessant temptation. In general, they are +coquetish; but, without coquetry, would they be deemed qualified for +their employment? + +Before the revolution, I remember, in the _ci-devant Palais Royal_, a +coffeehouse called _Le café mécanique_. The mechanical contrivance, +whence it derived its name, was of the most simple nature. The tables +stood on hollow cylinders, the tops of which, resembling a salver +with its border, were level with the plane of the table, but +connected with the kitchen underneath. In the bar sat a fine, showy +lady, who repeated your order to the attendants below, by means of a +speaking-trumpet. Presently the superficial part of the salver, +descended through the cylinder, and reascending immediately, the +article called for made its appearance. This _café méchanique_ did +not long remain in being, as it was not found to answer the +expectation of the projector. But besides six or seven coffeehouses +on the ground-floor of the _Palais du Tribunat_, there are also +several subterraneous ones now open. + +In one of these, near the _Théâtre Français,_ is a little stage, on +which farces, composed for the purpose, are represented _gratis_. In +another, is an orchestra consisting entirely of performers belonging +to the National Institution of the Blind. In a third, on the north +side of the garden, are a set of musicians, both vocal and +instrumental, who apparently never tire; for I am told they never +cease to play and sing, except to retune their instruments. Here a +female now and then entertains the company with a solo on the French +horn. To complete the sweet melody, a merry-andrew habited _à la +sauvage_, "struts his hour" on a place about six feet in length, and +performs a thousand ridiculous antics, at the same time flogging and +beating alternately a large drum, the thunder-like sound of which is +almost loud enough to give every auditor's brain a momentary +concussion. + +A fourth subterraneous coffeehouse in the _Palais du Tribunat_ is +kept by a ventriloquist, and here many a party are amused by one of +their number being repeatedly led into a mistake, in consequence of +being ignorant of the faculty possessed by the master of the house. +This man seems to have no small share of humour, and exercises it +apparently much to his advantage. In three visits which I paid to his +cellar, the crowd was so great that it was extremely difficult to +approach the scene of action, so as to be able to enjoy the effect of +his ludicrous deceptions. + +A friend of mine, well acquainted with the proper time for visiting +every place of public resort in Paris, conducted me to all these +subterraneous coffeehouses on a Sunday evening, when they were so +full that we had some difficulty to find room to stand, for to find a +seat was quite impossible. Such a diversity of character I never +before witnessed in the compass of so small a space. However, all was +mirth and good-humour. I know not how they contrive to keep these +places cool in summer; for, in the depth of winter, a more than +genial warmth prevails in them, arising from the confined breath of +such a concourse. On approaching the stair-case, if the orchestra be +silent, the entrance of these regions of harmony is announced by a +heat which can be compared only to the true Sirocco blast such as you +have experienced at Naples. + + + +LETTER LI. + +_Paris, January 15, 1802._ + +As after one of those awful and violent convulsions of nature which +rend the bosom of the earth, and overthrow the edifices standing on +its surface, men gradually repair the mischief it has occasioned, so +the French, on the ruins of the ancient colleges and universities, +which fell in the shock of the revolution, have from time to time +reared new seminaries of learning, and endeavoured to organize, on a +more liberal and patriotic scale, institutions for + +PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. + +The vast field which the organization of public instruction presents +to the imagination has, as may be, supposed, given birth to a great +number of systems more or less practicable; but, hitherto, it should +seem that political oscillations have imprinted on all the new +institutions a character of weakness which, if it did not absolutely +threaten speedy ruin, announced at least that they would not be +lasting. When the germs of discord prevailed, it was not likely that +men's minds should be in that tranquil state necessary for the +reestablishment of public seminaries, to lay the foundations of +which, in a solid and durable manner, required the calm of peace and +the forgetfulness of misfortune. + +After the suppression of the colleges and universities existing under +the monarchy, and to which the _Collège de France_ in Paris is the +sole exception, the National Convention, by a decree of the 24th of +Nivôse, year III (14th of January 1795) established _Normal_ Schools +throughout the Republic. Professors and teachers were appointed to +them; and it was intended that, in these nurseries, youth should be +prepared for the higher schools, according to the new plan of +instruction. However, in less than a year, these _Normal_ Schools +were shut up; and, by a law of the 3d of Brumaire, year IV (25th of +October, 1796) Primary, Secondary, and Central Schools were ordered +to be established in every department. + +In the Primary Schools, reading, writing, and arithmetic formed the +chief part of the instruction. Owing to various causes, the Secondary +Schools, I understand, were never established. In the Central +Schools, the internal regulation was to be as follows. + +The whole of the instruction was divided into three classes or +sections. In the first, were taught drawing, natural history, and +ancient and modern languages. In the second, mathematics, physics, +and chymistry. In the third, universal grammar, the fine arts, +history, and legislation. Into the first class the pupils were to be +received at the age of twelve; into the second, at fourteen; and into +the third, at sixteen. In each Central School were to be a public +library, a botanic garden, and an apparatus of chymical and physical +instruments. The professors were to be examined and chosen by a _Jury +of Instruction_, and that choice confirmed by the administration of +the department. + +The government, in turning its attention to the present state of the +public schools, and comparing them with the wants and wishes of the +inhabitants of the Republic, has found that the Primary Schools have +been greatly neglected, and that the Central Schools have not been of +so much utility as was expected. Alarmed at the consequences likely +to be produced by a state of things which leaves a great part of the +present generation destitute of the first rudiments of knowledge, the +government has felt that the reorganization of these schools is +become an urgent duty, and that it is impossible to delay longer to +carry it into execution. + +The _Special_ Schools of Arts and Sciences are mostly confined to +Paris. The other rich and populous cities of the Republic have +undoubtedly a claim to similar institutions. There is at present no +School of Jurisprudence, and but one of Medicine. + +The celebrated FOURCROY[1] has been some time engaged in drawing up a +plan for the improvement of public instruction. In seeking a new mode +of teaching appropriate to the present state of knowledge and to the +genius of the French nation, he has thought it necessary to depart +from the beaten track. Enlightened by the past, he has rejected the +ancient forms of the universities, whose philosophy and acquirements, +for half a century past, called for reformation, and no longer kept +pace with the progress of reason. In the Central Schools he saw +institutions few in number, and too uniformly organized for +departments varying in population, resources, and means. He has, +nevertheless, taken what was good in each of these two systems +successively adopted, and removed their abuses. Without losing sight +of the success due to good masters and skilful professors, he has, +above all, thought of the means of insuring the success of the new +schools by the competition of the scholars. He is of opinion that to +found literary and scientific institutions on a solid basis, it is +necessary to begin by attaching to them pupils, and filling the +classes with students, in order not to run the risk of filling them +with professors. Such is the object which FOURCROY wishes to attain, +by creating a number of national pensions, so considerable that their +funds, when distributed in the Lyceums, may be sufficient for their +support. + +Agreeably to these ideas, the following is said to be the outline of +the new organization of public instruction. It is to be divided into +four classes; viz. Primary Schools, Secondary Schools, Lyceums, and +Special Schools. + +PRIMARY SCHOOLS. + +A Primary School may belong to several _communes_ at a time, +according to the population and the locality of these _communes_. + +The teachers are to be chosen by the mayors and municipal councils. + +The under-prefects are to be specially charged with the organization +of these schools, and give an account of their state, once a month, +to the prefects. + +SECONDARY SCHOOLS. + +Every school established in the _commune_ or kept by private +individuals, in which are taught the Latin and French languages, the +first principles of geography, history and mathematics, is to be +considered as a Secondary School. + +The government promises to encourage the establishment of Secondary +Schools, and reward the good instruction that shall be given in them, +either by granting a spot for keeping them, or by the distribution of +gratuitous places in the Lyceums, to such of the pupils as shall have +distinguished themselves most, and by gratifications to the fifty +masters who shall have qualified most pupils for the Lyceums. + +No Secondary School is to be established without the authority of the +government. The Secondary Schools and private schools, whose +instruction is found superior to that of the Primary Schools, are to +be placed under the superintendance and particular inspection of the +prefects. + +LYCEUMS. + +There is to be one Lyceum at least in the district of every tribunal +of appeal. + +Here are to be taught ancient languages, rhetoric, logic, morality, +and the elements of the mathematical and physical sciences. To these +are to be added drawing, military exercises and the agreeable arts. + +Instruction is to be given to the pupils placed here by the +government, to those of the Secondary Schools admitted through +competition, to those whose parents may put them here as boarders, +and also to day-scholars. + +In each Lyceum is to be a director, who is to have immediately under +him a censor of studies, and an administrator who are all to be +nominated by the First Consul. + +In the former institutions, which are to be replaced by these new +ones, a vigilant eye was not constantly kept on the state of the +schools themselves, nor on that of the studies pursued in them. +According to the new plan, three inspectors-general, appointed by the +First Consul, are to visit them carefully, and report to the +government their situation, success, and defects. This new +supervisorship is to be, as it were, the key-stone of the arch, and +to keep all the parts connected. + +The fourth and highest degree of public instruction is to be acquired +in the + +SPECIAL SCHOOLS. + +This is the name to be applied to those of the upper schools, where +are particularly taught, and in the most profound manner, the useful +sciences, jurisprudence, medicine, natural history, &c. But schools +of this kind must not be confounded with the Schools for Engineers, +Artillery, Bridges and Highways, Hydrography, &c. which, _special_ as +they are essentially, in proportion to the sciences particularly +taught in them, are better described, however, by the name of +_Schools for Public Services_, on account of the immediate utility +derived from them by the government. + +In addition to the _Special_ Schools now in existence, which are to +be kept up, new ones are to be established in the following +proportion: + +Ten Schools of Jurisprudence. These useful institutions, which have +been abolished during the last ten years, are, by a new organization, +to resume the importance that they had lost long before the +revolution. The pupils are to be examined in a manner more certain +for determining their capacity, and better calculated for securing +the degree of confidence to be reposed in those men to whose +knowledge and integrity individuals are sometimes forced to intrust +their character and fortune. + +Three new Schools of Medicine, in addition to the three at present in +being. These also are to be newly organized in the most perfect +manner. + +The mathematical and physical sciences have made too great a progress +in France, their application to the useful arts, to the public +service, and to the general prosperity, has been too direct, says +FOURCROY, for it not to be necessary to diffuse the taste for them, +and to open new asylums where the advantages resulting from them may +be extended, and their progress promoted. There are therefore to be +four new _Special_ Schools of Natural History, Physics, and +Chymistry, and also a _Special_ School devoted to transcendent +Mathematics. + +The mechanical and chymical arts, so long taught in several +universities in Germany under the name of _technology_, are to have +two _Special_ Schools, placed in the cities most rich in industry and +manufactures. These schools, generally wished for, are intended to +contribute to the national prosperity by the new methods which they +will make known, the new instruments and processes which they will +bring into use, the good models of machines which they will +introduce, in a word, by every means that mechanics and chymistry can +furnish to the arts. + +A School of Public Economy, enlightened by Geography and History, is +to be opened for those who may be desirous to investigate the +principles of governments, and the art of ascertaining their +respective interests. In this school it is proposed to unite such an +assemblage of knowledge as has not yet existed in France. + +To the three principal schools of the arts dependent on design, which +are at present open, is to be added a fourth, become necessary since +those arts bring back to France the pure taste of the beautiful +forms, of which Greece has left such perfect models. + +In each of the observatories now in use is to be a professor of +astronomy, and the art of navigation is expected to derive new +succour from these schools, most of which are placed in the principal +sea-ports. A knowledge of the heavens and the study of the movements +of the celestial bodies, which every year receives very remarkable +augmentations from the united efforts of the most renowned +geometricians and the most indefatigable observers, may have a great +influence on the progress of civilization. On which account the +French government is extremely eager to promote the science of +astronomy. + +The language of neighbouring nations, with whom the French have such +frequent intercourse, is to be taught in several Lyceums, as being a +useful introduction to commerce. + +The art of war, of which modern times have given such great examples +and such brilliant lessons, is to have its _special_ school, and this +school, on the plan which it is intended to be established by +receiving as soldiers youths from the Lyceums, will form for the +French armies officers equally skilful in theory as in practice. + +This new Military School must not be confounded with the old _école +militaire_. Independently of its not being destined for a particular +class, which no longer exists in this country, the mode of +instruction to be introduced there will render it totally different +from the establishment which bore the same name. + +It is to be composed of five hundred pupils, forming a battalion, and +who are to be accustomed to military duty and discipline; it is to +have at least ten professors, charged to teach all the theoretical, +practical, and administrative parts of the art of war, as well as the +history of wars and of great captains. + +Of the five hundred pupils of the Special Military School, two +hundred are to be taken from among the national pupils of the +Lyceums, in proportion to their number in each of those schools, and +three hundred from among the boarders and day-scholars, according to +the examination which they must undergo at the end of their studies. +Every year one hundred of the former are to be admitted, and two +hundred of the latter. They are to be maintained two years in the +Special Military School, at the expense of the Republic. These two +years are to be considered as part of their military service. + +According to the report made of the behaviour and talents of the +pupils of the Military School, the government is to provide them with +appointments in the army. + +NATIONAL PUPILS. + +There are to be maintained at the expense of the Republic six +thousand four hundred pupils, as boarders in the Lyceums and Special +Schools. + +Out of these six thousand four hundred boarders, two thousand four +hundred are to be chosen by the government from among the sons of +officers and public functionaries of the judicial, administrative, or +municipal order, who shall have served the Republic with fidelity, +and for ten years only from among the children of citizens belonging +to the departments united to France, although they have neither been +military men nor public functionaries. + +These two thousand four hundred pupils are to be at least nine years +of age, and able to read and write. + +The other four thousand are to be taken from double the number of +pupils of the Secondary Schools, who, according to an examination +where their talents are put in competition, are to be presented to +the government. + +The pupils, maintained in the Lyceums, are not to remain there more +than six years at the expense of the nation. At the end of their +studies, they are to undergo an examination, after which a fifth of +them are to be placed in the different Special Schools according to +their disposition, in order to be maintained there from two to four +years at the expense of the Republic. + +The annual cost of all these establishments is estimated at near +eight millions of francs, (_circa_ £336,000 sterling) which exceeds +by at least two millions the amount of the charges of the public +instruction for the few preceding years; but this augmentation, which +will only take place by degrees, and at soonest in eighteen months, +appears trifling, compared to the advantages likely to result from +the new system. + +Whenever this plan is carried into execution, what hopes may not +France conceive from the youth of the rising generation, who, chosen +from among those inclined to study, will, in all probability, rise to +every degree of fame! The surest pledge of the success of the measure +seems to consist in the spirit of emulation which is to be +maintained, not only among the pupils, but even among the professors +in the different schools; for emulation, in the career of literature, +arts and sciences, leads to fame, and never fails to turn to the +benefit of society; whereas jealousy, in the road of ambition and +fortune, produces nothing but hatred and discord. + + "Envy, to which th' ignoble mind's a slave, + Is emulation in the learn'd and brave." + +So much for the plan.[2] In your last letter, you desire that I will +afford you some means of appreciating the essential difference +between the old system of education pursued in France, and the basis +on which public instruction is now on the point of being reorganised +and established. You must be sensible that the comparison of the two +modes, were I to enter deeply into the question, would far exceed the +limits of a letter. But, though I have already extended this to a +certain length, I can, in a few more lines, enable you to compare and +judge, by informing you, from the best authority, what has been the +spirit which has dictated the new organization. + +There are very few men who know how to confine themselves within just +bounds. Some yield to the mania of innovation, and imagine that they +create only because they destroy and change. Others bend under the +yoke of old habits. Some, solely because they have remained strangers +to the sciences, would wish that youth should be employed only in the +study of languages and literature. Others who, no doubt, forget that +every learned man, who aims at a solid reputation, ought to sacrifice +to the Muses, before he penetrates into the sanctuary of science, +would wish education to be confined to the study of the exact +sciences, and that youth should be occupied on things, before they +are acquainted with words. + +For the sole reason that the old system of instruction bore too +exclusively on the study of the learned languages, it was to be +feared that the new one, through a contrary excess, would proscribe +the Greek and Latin. The study of these two languages, as FOURCROY +has observed to me, is not merely useful to those who wish to acquire +a thorough knowledge of the French, which has borrowed from them no +small number of words, but it is only from the perusal of the great +writers of antiquity, on whom the best among the moderns have formed +themselves, that we can imbibe the sentiment of the beautiful, the +taste, and the rectitude of mind equally necessary, whether we feel +ourselves attracted towards eloquence or poetry, or raise ourselves +to the highest conceptions of the physical or mathematical sciences. + +At no time can the instruction given to a youth be otherwise +considered than as a preparatory mean, whose object is to anticipate +his taste and disposition, and enable him to enter with more firmness +into the career which he is intended to follow. + +From an attentive perusal of the plan, of which I have traced you the +leading features, you will be convinced that the study of the +sciences will gain by the new system, without that of literature +being in danger of losing. The number of professors is increased, and +yet the period of education is not prolonged. A pupil will always be +at liberty to apply himself more intensely to the branch to which he +is impelled by his particular inclination. He may confine himself to +one course of lectures, or attend to several, according to his +intellectual means. He will not be compelled to stop in his career, +merely because the pupils of his class do not advance. In short, +neither limits nor check have been put to the progress that may be +made by talent. + +I here give you only a principal idea, but the application of it, +improved by your sagacity and knowledge, will be sufficient to answer +all the objections which may be started against the new plan of +instruction, and which, when carefully investigated, may be reduced +to a single one; namely, that literature is sacrificed to the +sciences. + +[Footnote 1: Counsellor of State, now charged with the direction and +superintendance of public instruction.] + +[Footnote 2: The new organization of public instruction was decreed +by the government on the 11th of Floréal, year X.] + + + +LETTER LII. + +_Paris, January 18, 1802._ + +Of all the private lodgings in Paris, none certainly can be more +convenient for the residence of a single man than those of + +MILLINERS. + +I have already said that such is the profession of my landlady. +Whenever I am disposed for a little lively chitchat, I have only to +step to the next door but one into her _magazin de modes_, where, +like a favourite courtier, under the old _régime_, I have both _les +grandes et les petites entrées_, or, in plain English, I may either +introduce myself by the public front entrance, or slip in by the +private back-door. + +Here, twenty damsels are employed in making up head-dresses which are +hourly produced and varied by fashion. Closely confined to the +counter, with a needle in their hand, they are continually throwing +their eyes towards the street. Not a passenger escapes their notice. +The place the nearest to the window is in the greatest request, as +being most favourable for catching the transient homages of the +crowds of men continually passing and repassing. It is generally +occupied by the beauty of the _magazin_ or warehouse; for it would be +resented as an almost unpardonable offence to term this emporium of +taste a _boutique_ or shop. + +Before each of them is a block, on which they form and adjust the +gallant trophy destined to heighten the loveliness of some ambitious +fair who has set her heart on surpassing all her rivals at an +approaching ball. Montesquieu observes, in his Persian letters, that +"if a lady has taken it into her head to appear at an assembly in a +particular dress, from that moment fifty persons of the working class +must no longer sleep, or have time to eat and drink. She commands, +and is obeyed more expeditiously than the king of Persia, because +interest has greater sway than the most powerful monarch on earth." + +In the morning, some of these damsels wait on the ladies with +bandboxes of millinery. Obliged by their profession to adorn the +heads of other women, they must stifle the secret jealousy of their +sex, and contribute to set off the person of those who not +unfrequently treat them with hauteur. However, they are now and then +amply revenged: sometimes the proud rich lady is eclipsed by the +humble little milliner. The unadorned beauty of the latter destroys +the made up charms of the coquette: 'tis the triumph of nature over +art. + +If, perchance, the lover drops in, fatal consequences ensue. His +belle cannot but lose by the comparison: her complexion appears still +more artificial beside the natural bloom of the youthful _marchande_. + +In a word, the silent admirer all at once becomes faithless. + +Many a young Parisian milliner has made a jump from behind the +counter into a fashionable carriage, even into that of an English +peer. Strange revolution of fortune! In the course of a few days, she +returns to the same shop to make purchases, holding high her head; +and exulting in her success. Her former mistress, sacrificing her +rage to her interest, assumes a forced complaisance; while her +once-dear companions are ready to burst with envy. + +Millinery here constitutes a very extensive branch of trade. Nothing +short of the creative genius of the French could contrive to give, +again and again, a new form to things the most common. In vain do +females of other countries attempt to vie with them; in articles of +tasteful fancy they still remain unrivaled. + +From Paris, these studious mistresses of invention give laws to the +polished world. After passing to London, Berlin, Hamburg, and Vienna, +their models of fashion are disseminated all over Europe. These +models alike travel to the banks of the Neva and the shores of the +Propontis. At Constantinople, they find their way into the seraglio +of the Grand Signior; while, at Petersburg, they are servilely copied +to grace the Empress of Russia. Thus, the fold given to a piece of +muslin or velvet, the form impressed on a ribband, by the hand of an +ingenious French milliner, is repeated among all nations. + +A fashion here does not last a week, before it is succeeded by +another novelty; for a French woman of _bon ton_, instead of wearing +what is commonly worn by others, always aims at appearing in +something new. It is unfortunately too true, that the changeableness +of taste and inconstancy of fashion in France furnish an aliment to +the luxury of other countries; but the principle of this +communication is in the luxury of this gay and volatile people. + +You reproach me with being silent respecting the _bals masqués_ or +masquerades, mentioned in my enumeration of the amusements of Paris. +The fact is that a description of them will scarcely furnish matter +for a few lines, still less a subject for a letter. However, in +compliance with custom, I have been more than once to the + +BAL DE L'OPÉRA. + +This is a masquerade frequently given in the winter, at the theatre +of the grand French opera, where the pit is covered over, as that is +of our opera-house in the Haymarket. From the powerful draught of +air, which, coming from behind the scenes, may well be termed _vent +de coulisse_, the room is as cold as the season. + +Since the revolution, masquerades were strictly forbidden, and this +prohibition continued under the directorial government. It is only +since BONAPARTE'S accession to the post of Chief Magistrate, that the +Parisians have been indulged with the liberty of wearing disguises +during the carnival. + +Of all the amusements in Paris, I have ever thought this the most +tiresome and insipid. But it is the same at the _Bal de l'Opéra_ as +at _Frascati_, _Longchamp_, and other points of attraction here; +every one is soon tired of them, and yet every one flocks thither. In +fact, what can well be more tiresome than a place where you find +persons masked, without wit or humour? Though, according to the old +French saying, "_I faut avoir bien peu d'esprit pour ne pas en avoir +sous le masque?_" + +The men, who at a masquerade here generally go unmasked, think it not +worth while to be even complaisant to the women, who are elbowed, +squeezed, and carried by the tide from one end of the room to the +other, before they are well aware of it. Dominos are the general +dress. The music is excellent; but it is not the fashion to dance; +and _les femmes de bonne compagnie_, that is, well-bred women, are +condemned to content themselves with the dust they inhale; for they +dare not quit their mask to take any refreshment. But, +notwithstanding these inconveniences, it is here reckoned a fine +thing to have been at a _bal masqué_ when the crowd was great, and +the pressure violent; as the more the ladies have shared in it, the +more they congratulate themselves on the occasion. + +Before the revolution, the _grand ton_ was for gentlemen to go to the +_Bal de l'Opéra_ in a full-dress suit of black, and unmasked. Swords +were here prohibited, as at Bath. This etiquette of dress, however, +rendered not the company more select. + +I remember well that at a masked ball at the Parisian opera, in the +year 1785, the very first beau I recognized in the room, parading in +a _habit de cour_, was my own _perruquier_. As at present, the +amusement of the women then consisted in teazing the men; and those +who had a disposition for intrigue, gave full scope to the impulse of +their nature. The _fille entretenue_, the _duchesse_, and the +_bourgeoise_, disguised under a similar domino, were not always +distinguishable; and I have heard of a certain French marquis, who +was here laid under heavy contribution for the momentary +gratification of his caprice, though the object of it proved to be no +other than his own _cara sposa_. + + + +LETTER LIII. + +_Paris, January 19, 1802._ + +When you expressed your impatience to be informed of the dramatic +amusements in Paris, I promised to satisfy you as soon as I was able; +for I knew that you would not be contented with a superficial +examination. Therefore, in reviewing the principal scenic +establishments, I shall, as I have done before, exert my endeavours +not only to make you acquainted with the _best_ performers in every +department, but also with the _best_ stock-pieces, in order that, by +casting your eye on the _Affiches des Spectacles_, when you visit +this capital, you may at once form a judgment of the quality and +quantity of the entertainment you are likely to enjoy at the +representation of a particular piece, in which certain performers +make their appearance. Since the revolution, the custom of printing +the names of the actors and dancers in each piece, has been +introduced. Formerly, amateurs often paid their money only to +experience a disappointment; for, instead of seeing the hero or +heroine that excited their curiosity, they had a bad duplicate, or, +as the French term it, a _double_, imposed on them, more frequently +through caprice than any other motive. This is now obviated; and, +except in cases of sudden and unforeseen indisposition, you may be +certain of seeing the best performers whenever their name is +announced. + +In speaking of the theatres, the pieces represented, and the merits +of the performers, I cannot be supposed to be actuated by any +prejudice or partiality whatever. I have, it is true, been favoured +with the oral criticism of a man of taste, who, as a very old +acquaintance, has generally accompanied me to the different +_spectacles_; but still I have never adopted his sentiments, unless +the truth of them had been confirmed by my own observation. From him +I have been favoured with a communication of such circumstances +respecting them as occurred during the revolution, when I was absent +from Paris. You may therefore confidently rely on the candour and +impartiality of my general sketch of the theatres; and if the stage +be considered as a mirror which reflects the public mind, you will +thence be enabled to appreciate the taste of the Parisians. Without +forgetting that + + "_La critique est aisée, mais l'art est difficile_," + +I shall indulge the hope that you will be persuaded that truth alone +has guided my pen in this attempt to trace the attractions of the + +THÉÂTRE FRANÇAIS DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE. + +The house, now occupied by the performers of this theatre, was built +at the beginning of the revolution by the late duke of Orleans, who, +according to the opinion of those best acquainted with his schemes of +profit, intended it for the representation of the grand French opera, +for which, nevertheless, it is not sufficiently spacious. + +It stands adjoining to the south-west angle of the _Palais du +Tribunat_, with its front entrance in the _Rue de la Loi_. Its façade +presents a row of twelve Doric columns, surmounted by as many +Corinthian pilasters, crowned by their entablature. On the first +story is an exterior gallery; ornamented by an iron balustrade, which +runs the whole length of the façade, and communicates with the lobby. +On the north side, and at the back of the theatre, on the +ground-floor, are several covered galleries, bordered by shops, +which communicate with the _Rue St. Honoré_ and the _Palais du +Tribunat_. + +The vestibule, where four stair-cases terminate, is of an elliptic +form, surrounded by three rows of Doric pillars. Above the vestibule, +which is on the ground-floor, are the pit and lobby. The inside of +the house, which is immoderately lofty, presents seven tiers of +boxes, and, in the circumference, six Corinthian pillars. The +ornaments, numerously scattered, are in relief. At a certain +elevation, the plan of the house is changed by a recess made facing +the stage. Two angels, above the stage-boxes, shock the eye by their +enormous size. The boxes to the number of two hundred and twenty-two, +are said to contain thirteen hundred persons; and the pit, including +the _orchestre_,[1] seven hundred and twenty-four, making in all two +thousand and twenty persons. The construction of this house is +remarkable for iron only being employed in lieu of wood. The +architect was LOUIS. + +This theatre, which was begun in 1787, was finished in 1790, when, +all privileges having been done away, it was first opened by a +company of French comedians, who played tragedy and comedy. It then +took the name of _Théâtre Français de la Rue de Richelieu_, which +street was afterwards and is now called _Rue de la Loi_. Being opened +at the commencement of the revolution, it naturally adopted its +principles; and, when the National Convention had proclaimed the +Republic, it assumed the pompous name of _Théâtre de la République_. +The greater part of the actors who performed here, rendered +themselves remarkable for their _revolutionary_ ardour, and, during +the reign of terror, it became a privileged theatre. + +The _Comédie Française_ in the _Faubourg St. Germain_, which, in its +interior, presented the handsomest playhouse in Paris, was called +_l'Odéon_ a few years ago, and, since then, has been reduced by fire +to a mere shell, the walls only being left standing. In 1789, this +theatre appeared to follow the torrent of the revolution, and changed +its name for that of _Théâtre de la Nation_. Nevertheless, the actors +did not, on that account, relinquish the title of _Comédiens +ordinaires du Roi_. Shortly after, they even became, in general, the +declared partisans of the old _régime_, or at least of the court. +Their house was frequently an _arena_ where the two parties came to +blows, particularly on the occasion of the tragedy of _Charles Neuf_, +by CHÉNIER, and of the comedy of _L'Ami des Loix_. The former of +these pieces, represented in the first ebullition of the revolution, +was directed against the court; and the comedians refused to bring it +on the stage, at the time of the assemblage of the national guards in +Paris, on the 14th of July, 1790, known by the title of _Federation_. +The latter was played after the massacres of September 1792, and had +been composed with the laudable view of bringing back the public mind +to sentiments of humanity, justice, and moderation. The maxims which +it contained, being diametrically opposite to those of the plunderers +who then reigned, that is, the members of the _commune_ of Paris, the +minority of the National Convention, the Jacobins, Cordeliers, &c. +they interrupted the representation, and, after a great uproar, the +piece was prohibited. + +This minority of which I have just spoken, having succeeded in +subduing the majority, nothing now stopped the rage of the +revolutionary party. All those who gave them umbrage were imprisoned, +and put to death with the forms of law. The comedians of the French +theatre were thrown into prison; it appears that they were, both men +and women, partly destined for the scaffold, and that if they +escaped, it was through the address of a clerk of one of the +Committees of Public Welfare or of Public Safety, who repeatedly +concealed the documents containing the charges brought against them. +It is said that the comedians purpose to prove their gratitude, so +long delayed, to this young man, without putting themselves to any +expense, by giving for his benefit an extraordinary +representation.[2] + +At length the happy 9th of Thermidor arrived; the prisons were thrown +open; and, as you may well imagine in such a nation as this, the +French comedians were not the last to be set at liberty. However, +their theatre was not immediately restored to them. It was occupied +by a sort of bastard _spectacle_, with the actors of which they were +then obliged to form an association. This did not last long. The +French comedians were received by the manager of the lyric theatre of +the _Rue Feydeau_, whom they afterwards ruined. The actors of comedy, +properly so called, contrived to expel those of tragedy, with whom +they thought they could dispense; and, shortly, they themselves, +notwithstanding their reputation, were deserted by the public. The +heroes and heroines, with Mademoiselle RAUCOURT at their head, took +possession of the theatre of the _Rue de Louvois_, and there +prospered. But, after the 18th of Fructidor, (5th of September, 1797) +the Directory caused this house to be shut up: the reason assigned +was the representation given here of a little comedy, of ancient date +however, and of no great importance, in which a knavish valet is +called MERLIN, as was the Minister of Justice of that day, who since +became director, not of the theatre, but of the republic. +Mademoiselle RAUCOURT, who was directress of this theatre, returned +with her company to the old theatre of the _Faubourg St. Germain_, +which then took the name of _l'Odéon_. + +In the mean time, the theatre of the _Rue de Richelieu_ had +perceptibly declined, after the fall of Robespierre, and the public +appeared to have come to a positive determination to frequent it no +longer. The manager of the _Théâtre Feydeau_, M. SARGENT, formerly a +banker, who was rich, and enjoyed a good reputation, succeeded in +uniting all the actors of the _Comédie Française_ and those of the +_Théâtre de la République_. This effected his own ruin. When he had +relinquished the management of the undertaking, the government took +it in hand, and definitively organized this tragic and comic +association, to superintend which it appointed a special +commissioner. + +The _repertoire_ (or list of pieces which are here played habitually, +or have been acted with applause) is amazingly well furnished, and +does infinite honour to French literature. It may be divided into two +parts, the ancient and the modern. It is the former that deserves the +encomium which I have just bestowed. In the line of Tragedy, it is +composed of the greater part of the pieces of the four principal +pillars of the temple of the French Melpomene: namely CORNEILLE[3], +RACINE, CRÉBILLON, and VOLTAIRE, to whom may be added DU BELLOY, as +well as of some detached pieces, such as _Iphigénie en Tauride_ by +GUIMOND DE LA TOUCHE, _Le Comte de Warwick_ and _Philoctète_ by LA +HARPE. The modern _repertoire_, or list of stock-pieces, is formed of +the tragedies of M. M. DUCIS, CHÉNIER, ARNAULT, LEGOUVÉ, and LE +MERCIER. + +In the line of Comedy, it is also very rich. You know that, at the +head of the French comic authors, stands MOLIÈRE, who, in this +country at least, has no equal, either among the ancients or the +moderns. Several of his pieces are still represented, though they are +not numerously attended; as well because manners are changed, as +because the actors are no longer able to perform them. Next to +MOLIÈRE, but at a great interval, comes REGNARD, whom the French +comedians have deserted, for much the same reason: they no longer +give any plays from the pen of this author, who possessed the _vis +comica_, except _Les Folies Amoureuses_, a pretty little comedy in +three acts. We no longer hear of his _Joueur_ and his _Légataire +Universel_, which are _chefs d'oeuvre_. There are likewise the works +of DESTOUCHES, who has written _Le Glorieux, Le Dissipateur_, and _La +Fausse Agnès_, which are always played with applause. _Le Méchant_, +by GRESSET, is a masterpiece in point of style, and _La Métromanie_, +by PIRON, the best of French comedies, next to those of MOLIÈRE and +REGNARD. Then come the works of LA CHAUSSÉE, who is the father of the +_drame_, and whose pieces are no longer represented, though he has +composed several, such as _La Gouvernante_, _L'École des Mères_, _Le +Préjugé à la Mode_, which, notwithstanding, their whining style, are +not destitute of merit, and those of DANCOURT, who has written +several little comedies, of a very lively cast, which are still +played, and those of MARIVAUX, whose old metaphysical jargon still +pleases such persons as have their head full of love. I might augment +this list by the name of several other old authors, whose productions +have more or less merit. + +The number of modern French comic authors is very limited; for it is +not even worthwhile to speak of a few little comedies in one act, the +title of which the public scarcely remember. According to this +calculation, there is but one single comic author now living. That is +COLIN D'HARLEVILLE, who has written _L'Inconstant_, _Les Châteaux en +Espagne_, _Le Vieux Célibataire_, and _Les Moeurs du Jour_, which are +still represented. _Le Vieux Célibataire_ is always received with +much applause. In general, the pieces of M. COLIN are cold, but his +style is frequently graceful: he writes in verse; and the whole part +of _L'Inconstant_ is very agreeably written. Indeed, that piece is +the best of this author. + +FABRE D'EGLANTINE is celebrated as an actor in the revolution (I mean +on the political stage), and as the author who has produced the best +piece that has appeared since _La Métromanie_. It is the _Philinte de +Molière_, which, in some measure, forms a sequel to the comedy of the +_Misanthrope_. Nevertheless, this title is ill chosen; for the +character of the _Philinte_ in the piece of MOLIÈRE, and that of +FABRE'S piece scarcely bear any resemblance. We might rather call it +the _Égoiste_. Although the comic part of it is weak, the piece is +strongly conceived, the fable very well managed, the style nervous +but harsh, and the third act is a _chef-d'oeuvre_. + +Since the death of FABRE, another piece of his has been acted, +entitled _Le Précepteur_. In this piece are to be recognized both his +manner and his affected philosophical opinions. His object is to +vaunt the excellence of the education recommended by J. J. ROUSSEAU, +though the revolution has, in a great measure, proved the fallacy of +the principles which it inculcates. As these, however, are presented +with art, the piece had some success, and still maintains its ground +on the stage. It was played for the first time about two years ago. +The surname of EGLANTINE, which FABRE assumed, arose from his having +won the prize at the Floral games at Toulouse. The prize consisted of +an _eglantine_ or wild rose in gold. Before he became a dramatic +author, he was an actor and a very bad actor. Being nominated member +of the National Convention, he distinguished himself in that +assembly, not by oratorical talents, but by a great deal of villainy. +He did not think as he acted or spoke. When the _montagnards_[4] or +mountaineers, that is, those monsters who were always thirsting for +blood, divided, he appeared for some time to belong to the party of +DANTON, who, however, denied him when they were both in presence of +each other at the bar of the revolutionary tribunal. DANTON insisted +that he who had been brought to trial for a just cause, if not a just +motive, ought not to be confounded with stealers of port-folios.[5] +They were both sentenced to die, and accordingly executed. + +Among the comic authors of our age, some people would reckon +DUMOUSTIER, whose person was held in esteem, but whose works are +below mediocrity. They are _Le Conciliateur_, a comedy in five acts, +and _Les Femmes_, a comedy in three acts. The latter appears to be +the picture of a brothel. They are both still played, and both have +much vogue, which announces the total decline of the art. + +There is a third species of dramatic composition, proscribed by the +rules of good taste, and which is neither tragedy nor comedy, but +participates of both. It is here termed _drame_. Although LA CHAUSSÉE +is the father of this tragi-comic species of writing, he had not, +however, written any _tragédies bourgeoises_, and the French declare +that we have communicated to them this contagion; for their first +_drame_, _Beverley, ou le Joueur Anglais_ is a translation in verse +from the piece of that name of our theatre. The celebrated LEKAIN[6] +opposed its being acted, and affirmed with reason that this mixture +of the two species of drama hurt them both. MOLÉ, who was fond of +applause easily obtained, was the protector of the piece, and played +the part of _Beverley_ with success; but this _drame_ is no longer +performed on the Parisian stage. Next to this, comes _Le Père de +Famille_, by DIDEROT. It is a long sermon. However, it presents +characters well drawn. This species of composition is so easy that +the number of _drames_ is considerable; but scarcely any of them are +now performed, except _Eugénie_ and _La Mère Coupable_, by +BEAUMARCHAIS,[7] which are frequently represented. I shall not finish +this article without reminding you that MERCIER has written so many +_drames_ that he has been called _Le Dramaturge_. All his are become +the prey of the little theatres and the aliment of the provincial +departments. This circumstance alone would suffice to prove the +mediocrity of the _drame_. MONVEL, of whom I shall soon have occasion +to speak, would well deserve the same title. + +[Footnote 1: This is a place, so called in French theatres, +comprising four or five rows of benches, parted off, between the +place where the musicians are seated and the front of the pit.] + +[Footnote 2: It is not mentioned whether these sons and daughters of +Thespis, who have since gained a great deal of money, have offered +any _private_ remuneration to their benefactor, rather to their +guardian-angel.] [TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE: The scan of this footnote was +imperfect. Some of the text was interpolated.] + +[Footnote 3: Of course, PIERRE CORNEILLE is here meant. THOMAS +CORNEILLE, who was surnamed the Great, must not, however be +forgotten. THOMAS is the author of _Ariane_ and _le Comte d'Essex_, a +tragedy much esteemed, and which is deserving of estimation.] + +[Footnote 4: Thus called, because they formed a very close and very +elevated group at one of the extremities of the hall of the National +Convention.] + +[Footnote 5: FABRE D'EGLANTINE was tried for having, in concert with +certain stock-jobbers, proposed and caused the adoption of decrees +concerning the finances.] + +[Footnote 6: LEKAIN said humourously that to play the _drame_ well, +it was sufficient to know how to make a summerset.] + +[Footnote 7: Every one is acquainted with the two comedies written by +this author, _Le Barbier de Seville_ and _Le Mariage de Figaro_. The +astonishing run of the latter, which was acted one hundred and fifty +succeeding nights, was greatly owing to BEAUMARCHAIS having there +turned into ridicule several persons of note in the ministry and the +parliament: _La Mère Coupable_, which is often given, is the sequel +to _Le Mariage de Figaro_, as that piece is to _Le Barbier de +Seville_.] + + + +LETTER LIV. + +_Paris, January 20, 1802._ + +Let us now examine the merits of the principal performers belonging +to the _Théâtre Français_. + + +TRAGEDY. + + +_Noble Fathers, or characters of Kings_. + +VANHOVE, MONVEL, ST. PRIX, and NAUDET. + +VANHOVE. This king of the _Théâtre Français_ neither has majesty nor +nobleness of manner. His countenance is mean, and his make common. +His monotonous and heavy utterance is sometimes intermingled with +yelping sounds. He possesses no sensibility, and substitutes noise +for expression. His mediocrity caused him to be received at the old +_Comédie Française_; for the first or principal actors of that +theatre were rather fond of receiving persons of weak talents, merely +that they might be set off. He _doubled_ BRIZARD, whom nature had +endowed with the happiest gifts for tragedy. + +VANHOVE was the first player ever called for by a Parisian audience +after the representation, in order to express to him their +satisfaction. However, it may be proper to observe that, in such +cases, it is always some friend of the author who takes the lead. +VANHOVE no longer obtains this favour at present, and is seldom +applauded. He also plays the parts of fathers in comedy. + +MONVEL. This actor is not near so old as VANHOVE; but the decay of +his person is such that, when he plays, he seems a skeleton +bestirring itself, or that is set in motion. It is a misfortune for +him that his physical means betray his talents. MONVEL is a man of +genius. Thus gifted, it is not astonishing that he has a just +diction, and is not deficient in intelligence. Some persons doubt +whether he has real sensibility; but he at least presents the +appearance of it. He, in some measure, breaks his voice, and vents +mournful accents which produce much effect. With a constitution +extremely weak, it is impossible that he should perform characters +which require energy and pride. He therefore confines himself to +those in which the pathetic is predominant, or which do not +imperiously demand great efforts, such as _Auguste_ in _Cinna_, +_Burrhus_ in _Britannicus_, _Brutus_ in the tragedy of that name (now +no longer played), _Lusignan_ in _Zaire_, _Zopire_ in _Mahomet_, +_Fénélon_[1] and _l'Abbé de l'Epée_ in the two pieces of that name. +His stock of characters then is by no means extensive. We may also +add to it the part of _Ésope à la cour_, in the comedy of that name +by BOURSAULT, which he plays or recites in great perfection, because +it is composed of fables only. MONVEL delivers them with neatness and +simplicity. For this part he has no equal in France.[2] + +MONVEL is author as well as actor. He has composed several comic +operas and _drames_; and his pieces, without being good, have always +obtained great applause. His _drames_ are _l'Amant Bourru_, +_Clémentine et Désormes_, _Les Amours de Bayard_, _Les Victimes +Cloitrées_, &c. You will find in them forced situations, but set off +by sentiment. He is lavish of stage-effect and that always pleases +the multitude. _L'Amant Bourru_ has alone remained as a stock-piece. + +By his zeal for the revolution, he alienated from him a great part of +the public. When every principle of religion was trodden under foot, +and, under the name of festivals of reason or of the goddess of +reason, orgies of the most scandalous nature were celebrated in the +churches, MONVEL ascended the pulpit of the parish of St. Roch, and +preached _atheism_ before an immense congregation. Shortly after, +Robespierre caused the National Convention to proclaim the following +declaration: "_The French people acknowledge the Supreme Being and +the immortality of the soul." MONVEL trembled; and it is probable +that, had not that sanguinary tyrant been overthrown, the atheistical +preacher would have descended from the pulpit only to ascend the +scaffold.[3] + +ST. PRIX. He has no fixed employment. Sometimes he plays the parts of +kings, sometimes those of lovers; but excels in none. He would be a +very handsome man, were it possible to be so with a face void of +expression. Nature has given him a strong but hollow voice; and he +recites so coldly, that he makes the public yawn, and seems sometimes +to yawn himself. When he means to display warmth, he screams and +fatigues the ear without mercy. + +NAUDET. This man, who is great only in stature, quitted the rank of +serjeant in the _Gardes Françaises_ to become a bad player. In the +character of kings, he scarcely now appears but to personate tyrants. +He is very cold, and speaks through his nose like a Capuchin friar, +which has gained him the appellation of the Reverend Father NAUDET. + + +_First parts or principal lovers, in Tragedy_. + +TALMA, and LAFOND. + +TALMA. The great reputation which circumstances and his friends[4] +have given to this actor has, probably, rendered him celebrated in +England. His stature and his voice (which, in theatrical language, is +called _organ_), should seem to qualify him for the parts of _jeunes +premiers_ only, of which I shall say more hereafter. Accordingly he +made his _début_ in that line about fifteen or sixteen years ago. +Without being brilliant, his first appearances were successful, and +he was received on trial. He soon caused himself to be remarked by +the correctness of his dress.[5] But what fixed attention on TALMA, +was the part of _Charles Neuf_, which he plays in the tragedy of that +name.[6] In the riots to which this piece gave rise in 1790, TALMA +figured as a patriot. Having fallen out with the comedians who had +behaved ill to him, and no longer placed him in any other parts than +those of confidants, he was engaged at the new _Théâtre Français_ of +the _Rue de Richelieu_, where it was proposed to him to perform the +characters which pleased him best, that is, the best in each piece. +Thus he was seen alternately personating young princes, heroes, and +tyrants. + +TALMA is now reduced to those of the old stock. The characters he at +present represents are _Cinna_ in the tragedy of that name by +CORNEILLE, _Oreste_ in the _Andromaque_ of RACINE, _Néron_ in the +_Britannicus_ of the same, _OEdipe_ in the tragedy of that name by +VOLTAIRE, and _Faïel_ in _Gabrielle du Vergy_ by DU BELLOY, _Oreste_ +in _Iphigénie en Tauride_ by GUIMOND DE LA TOUCHE, and _Ægisthe_ in +the _Agamemnon_ of LE MERCIER. TALMA also plays many other parts, +but, in these, he makes no great figure. He had a great aversion to +old pieces, and as long as he preserved his sway at the theatre, very +few, if any were performed. In fact, there are many in which he is +below mediocrity. + +You will certainly expect that I should tell you what constitutes the +talent of this performer. He is small in stature, thin in person, and +rather ill-made; his arms and legs being bowed, which he takes care +to conceal by the fulness of his garments. He has a fine eye, and his +features are regular, but too delicate for the perspective of the +theatre. He has long since adopted the antique head-dress,[7] and has +contributed to bring it into fashion. He distinguished himself +formerly in Paris by wearing clothes of a strange form. As an actor, +he has no nobleness of manner, and not unfrequently his gestures are +aukward. His deportment is always ungraceful, though he often +endeavours to imitate the posture of the antique statues; but even +then he presents only a caricature. His countenance has little or no +expression, except in moments of rage or terror. In pourtraying the +latter sentiment, all the faculties of his soul appear absorbed; yet, +though his distraction seems complete, there is a sort of silliness +blended with his stupor, which certain persons take for truth, and +which is much more perceptible in the rest of his characters. In +rage, he is a tiger mangling his prey, and sometimes you might +believe that you heard that animal drawing his breath. TALMA has +never expressed well a tender, generous, or noble sentiment. His soul +is neither to be softened nor elevated; and, to produce effect, he +must be in a terror or in a rage; but then he makes a great +impression on the majority of the public. His utterance is slow, +minced, and split into syllables. His voice is hollow; but, in +moments of rage, it is strong, yet without being of a considerable +volume. He is generally reproached with being deficient in +sensibility: I think, however, that, by dint of labour, he might +paint feeling; for I have heard him render delicate passages happily +enough. He is accused here of having adopted the English style of +acting, though, as far as my opinion goes, with little or no +foundation. Be this as it may, he passed the early part of his youth +in London, where his father resides, and follows the profession of a +dentist. The son may now be about thirty-eight years of age. + +TALMA preserves the reputation of being a zealous partisan of the +revolution; but I am confidently assured that he never injured any +one, and held in horror the assassinations which have left an +indelible stain on that event. He was intimately connected with the +deputies, styled _Girondists_ or _Brisotins_, who perished on the +scaffold, after their party was overcome, on the 31st of May, 1793, +by that of the ferocious mountaineers. The latter warmly reproached +TALMA with having, in the year 1792, after the retreat of the +Prussians, given a _fête_ or grand supper to the famous DUMOURIEZ, +with whom they were beginning to fall out, and whom they accused of +treason for not having taken the king of Prussia prisoner. The +hideous MARAT, I am told, went to call on that general at TALMA'S, +where the company received him very cavalierly, and when he was gone, +DUGAZON the actor, hot-headed revolutionist as he was, by way of +pleasantry, pretended to purify the room by burning sugar in a +chaffing-dish. All this amounted to more than was necessary for being +condemned by the revolutionary tribunal; and TALMA, being detested by +ROBESPIERRE, would, in all probability, have been delivered over to +that tribunal, but for the protection of DAVID, the celebrated +painter, who was concerting with him about changing the form of dress +of the French people. During all the reign of terror, TALMA and his +wife were in continual fear of the scaffold. + +LAFOND. TALMA reigned, and was in possession of the first cast of +parts. Of these, he played whatever suited him, and rejected what he +disliked, when about a year ago, there appeared in the same line a +young actor of a rather tall and well-proportioned stature, and whom +Nature had, besides, gifted with an agreeable countenance and a +tolerably good voice. He had played in the provincial theatres; but, +in order to overcome every obstacle which might be opposed to his +_début_, he became a pupil of DUGAZON, an actor of comedy, and what +is more singular, of one more frequently a buffoon than a comedian. +The latter, however, is said to possess a knowledge of the style of +playing of the actors who, thirty years ago, graced the French stage, +and consequently may be capable of giving good advice. + +By means of this powerful protection, LAFOND got the better of every +difficulty. This actor made his first appearance in the character of +_Achille_ in the tragedy of _Iphigénie en Aulide_ by RACINE. He was +not the Achilles of Homer, nor even that of the piece, or at best he +represented him in miniature. However, his diction generally just, +his acting, some grace, and, above all, the fatigue and _ennui_ which +TALMA impressed on many of the spectators, procured this rival a +decisive success. As is customary in such cases, the newspapers were +divided in opinion. The majority declared for LAFOND, and none of the +opposite side spoke unfavourably of him. It was not so with TALMA. +Some judged him harshly, calling him a detestable actor, while others +bestowed on him the epithet of _sublime_, which, at the present day, +has scarcely any signification; so much is it lavished on the most +indifferent performers. This instance proves the fact; for if TALMA +has reached the _sublime_, it is _le sublime de la Halle_. + +These two rivals might live in peace; the parts which suit the one, +being absolutely unfit for the talents of the other. TALMA requires +only concentered rage, sentiments of hatred and vengeance, which +certainly belong to tragedy, but which ought not to be expressed as +if they came from the mouth of a low fellow, unworthy of figuring in +an action of this kind; and LAFOND is little qualified for any other +than graceful parts, bordering on knight-errantry or romance. His +best character is _Achille_. I have also seen him perform, if not in +a manner truly tragic, at least highly satisfactory, _Rodrigue_ in +_Le Cid_ of CORNEILLE, and the part of _Tancrède_ in VOLTAIRE'S +tragedy of that name. LAFOND obtains the preference over TALMA in the +character of _Orosmane_ in the tragedy of _Zaïre_; a character which +is the touchstone of an actor. Not that he excels in it. He has not a +marked countenance, the dignity, the tone of authority, the energy, +and the extreme sensibility which characterize this part. He is not +the Sultan who commands. He is, if you please, a young _commis_ very +amorous, a little jealous, who gets angry, and becomes good-humoured +again; but at least he is not a ferocious being, as TALMA represents +_Orosmane_, in moments of rage and passion, or an unfeeling one in +those which require sensibility. + +LAFOND is reproached sometimes with a bombastic and inflated tone. +Feeling that he is deficient in the necessary powers, he swells his +voice, which is prejudicial to truth, and without truth, there is no +theatrical illusion. Nature had intended him for the parts of young +lovers, of which I shall presently speak. His features are too +delicate, his countenance not sufficiently flexible, and his person +bespeaks too little of the hero, for great characters. But when he +first appeared, there was a vacancy in this cast of parts, and none +in the other. + + +Jeunes Premiers, _or parts of young Lovers_. + + +ST. FAL, DAMAS, and DUPONT. + +ST. FAL. This performer, who is upwards of forty-five, has never had +an exterior sufficiently striking to turn the brain of young +princesses. Every thing in his person is common, and his acting is +really grotesque. However, not long since he frequently obtained +applause by a great affectation of sensibility and a stage-trick, +which consists in uttering loud, harsh, and hoarse sounds after +others faint and scarcely articulated. He has, besides, but a trivial +or burlesque delivery, and no dignity, no grace in his deportment or +gestures. + +DAMAS. He is much younger than ST. FAL, but his gait and carriage are +vulgar. He is not deficient in warmth; but all this is spoiled by a +manner the most common. He first played at the theatres on the +_Boulevard_, and will never be able to forget the lessons he imbibed +in that school. It is with him as with the rabbits of which BOILEAU +makes mention, in one of his Satires where he describes a bad dinner, + + "-------- et qui, nés dans Paris, + Sentaient encore le chou dont ils furent nourris." + +The _drame_ is the style in which DAMAS best succeeds. There is one +in particular, _Le Lovelace Français_, where he personates an +upholsterer of the _Rue St. Antoine_, who has just been cornuted by +the young Duke of Richelieu. This part he performs with much truth, +and _avec rondeur_, as the critics here express it, to signify +plain-dealing. But DAMAS is no less ignoble in comedy than in +tragedy. + +DUPONT. This young actor, who is of a very delicate constitution, has +never had what we call great powers on the stage; and a complaint in +his tongue has occasioned a great difficulty in his articulation. +Without having a noble air, he has something distinguishing in his +manner. His delivery is correct; but the defect of which I have +spoken has rendered him disagreeable to the public, who manifest it +to him rather rudely, though he has sometimes snatched from them +great applause. + +After all the actors I have mentioned, come the confidants, a dull +and stupid set, of whom one only deserves mention, not as an actor, +but as an author. This is DUVAL. He has written that pretty comic +opera, entitled _Le Prisonnier_, as well as _Maison à vendre_, and +several _drames_, among which we must not forget _Le Lovelace +Français, ou la Jeunesse du Duc de Richelieu_, the piece +before-mentioned. + + +_January 20, in continuation_. + +Next follow the daughters of Melpomene, or those heroines who make +the most conspicuous figure in Tragedy. + + +_Characters of Queens_. + + +Mesdames RAUCOURT and VESTRIS. + +Mademoiselle RAUCOURT. Never did _début_ make more noise than that of +this actress, who appeared for the first time on the French stage +about thirty years ago, and might then be sixteen or seventeen years +of age. She was a pupil of Mademoiselle CLAIRON, who had a numerous +party, composed of Encyclopædists, French academicians, and almost +all the literati of Paris. The zeal of her friends, the youth, tall +stature, and person of the _débutante_ supplied the place of talent; +and her instructress has recorded in her memoirs that all her labour +was lost. The success, however, of Mademoiselle RAUCOURT was such, +that there were, it is said, several persons squeezed to death at the +door of the playhouse. What increased enthusiasm in favour of the +young actress was, that a reputation for virtue was granted to her as +great and as justly merited as that for talent. Her father declared +in the public lobby that he would blow out her brains if he suspected +her of having the smallest intrigue. He kept not his word. Besides, +it is well known that his daughter always took care to conduct +herself in such a manner as to set the foresight even of jealousy at +defiance. Her _penchant_ not leaving her the resource to which women +of her profession generally recur, and her expenses being +considerable, her debts increased; and to avoid the pursuit of her +creditors she took refuge in Germany with her tender friend, +Mademoiselle SOUK, who has since been mistress to the late king of +Prussia. They both travelled over that country, and a thousand +reports are circulated to their shame; but the most disgraceful of +these are said to be unfounded. The protection of the queen of +France, who paid her debts repeatedly, at length restored her to the +_Comédie Française_. Such inconsiderate conduct did no small injury +to that unfortunate princess, whom I mention with concern on such an +occasion. + +The stature of Mademoiselle RAUCOURT is colossal, and when she +presents herself, she has a very imposing look. Her face, however, is +not so noble; she has small eyes, and her features have not that +flexibility necessary for expressing the movements of the passions. +Her voice was formerly very full in the _medium_ of level-speaking; +but it seemed like that of a man. When you heard it for the first +time, you thought that, in impassioned sentences, she was going to +thunder; but, on the contrary, she assumed a very extensive +_falsetto_, which formed the most singular contrast with the dull +sounds that had preceded it. That defect, perhaps, is somewhat less +striking at the present day; but the voice of this actress is become +hoarse, like that of persons who make a frequent use of strong +liquors. The delivery of Mademoiselle RAUCOURT is, in general, just +and correct; for she is allowed to have understanding; yet, as she +neither has warmth nor sensibility, she produces scarcely any effect. +Plaudits most frequently burst forth when she appears; but, though +these are obtained, she never touches the feelings of the spectator, +she never reaches his heart, even in the parts, where she has had the +most vogue. That of _Médée_, in which she has begun to reestablish +her declining reputation, was neither better felt nor better +expressed. She was indebted for the success she obtained in it only +to the magician's robe, to the wand, and to a stage-trick which +consists in stooping and then raising herself to the utmost height at +the moment when she apostrophizes the sun. In the scene of Medea with +her children, a heart-rending and terrible scene, there was nothing +but dryness and a total absence of every maternal feeling. + +The characters of queens, which Mademoiselle RAUCOURT performs, are +the first cast of parts at the theatre. It consists of those of +mothers and a few parts of enraged or impassioned lovers. In the +works of CORNEILLE, the principal ones are _Cléopatre_ in _Rodogune_, +and _Cornélie_ in the _Mort de Pompée_. In RACINE'S, the parts of +_Athalie_ and of _Phèdre_ in the tragedies of the same name, of +_Agrippine_ in _Britannicus_, of _Clitemnestre_ in _Iphigénie en +Aulide_, and of _Roxane_ in _Bajazet_. In VOLTAIRE'S, those of +_Mérope_ and _Sémiramis_; and, lastly, that of _Médée_ in the tragedy +by LONGEPIERRE. + +Like all the performers belonging to the _Théâtre Français_, +Mademoiselle RAUCOURT was imprisoned during the reign of terror. The +patriots of that day bore her much ill-will, and it is asserted that +Robespierre had a strong desire to send her to the guillotine. When +she reappeared on the stage, the public compensated her sufferings, +and to this circumstance she owes the rather equivocal reputation she +has since enjoyed. + +Madame VESTRIS. Although she has been a very long time on the +Parisian stage, this actress is celebrated only from the famous +quarrel she had twenty years ago with Mademoiselle SAINVAL the elder. +Through the powerful protection of the Marshal de DURAS,[8] her +lover, she prevailed over her formidable rival, who, however, had on +her side the public, and the sublimity of her talent. This quarrel +arose from Madame VESTRIS wishing to wrest from Mademoiselle SAINVAL +the parts for which she was engaged. A memoir, written by an +indiscreet friend, in favour of the latter, which she scorned to +disavow, and in which the court was not spared, caused her to be +banished from the capital by a _lettre de cachet_. The public, +informed of her exile, called loudly for Mademoiselle SAINVAL. No +attention was paid to this by the higher powers, and the guard at the +theatre was tripled, in order to insure to Madame VESTRIS the +possibility of performing her part. Nevertheless, whenever she made +her appearance, the public lavished on her hisses, groans, and +imprecations. All this she braved with an effrontery, which +occasioned them to be redoubled. But, as all commotions subside in +time, Madame VESTRIS remained mistress of the stage; while +Mademoiselle SAINVAL travelled over the provinces, where the +injustice of the court towards her caused no less regret than the +superiority of her talent excited admiration. + +Madame VESTRIS was rather handsome, and this explains the whole +mystery. She had, above all, a most beautiful arm, and paid no small +attention to her toilet. She delivers her parts with tolerable +correctness, but her tone is heavy and common. The little warmth with +which she animates her characters, is the production of an effort; +for she neither possesses energy nor feeling. Her gestures correspond +with her acting, and she has no dignity in her deportment. She seldom +appears on the stage at present, which saves her from the +mortification of being hissed. She is now old, and the political +opinion of those who frequent most the theatres rouses them against +her. + +Although the court had really committed itself to favour her, Madame +VESTRIS was the first to betray her noble patrons. At the period of +the revolution, she quitted the old _Comédie Française_, taking with +her DUGAZON, her father, and TALMA, and founded the present theatre, +styled _Théâtre de la République_. She was also followed by several +authors; for not being able to conceal from herself the mediocrity of +her talents, especially in such parts of the old plays as had been +performed by other actresses in a manner far superior, she +facilitated the representation of new pieces, in which she had not to +fear any humiliating comparison. The principal of these authors were +LA HARPE, DUCIS, and CHÉNIER. The last, who, besides, is famous as +member of the National Convention and other Legislative Assemblies, +composed the tragedy of _Charles Neuf_, in which Madame VESTRIS, +playing the part of _Catherine de Médicis_, affected, I am told, to +advance her under-lip, _à l'Autrichienne, in order to occasion +comparisons injurious to the ill-fated Marie-Antoinette.[9] + + +_Characters of Princesses._ + +Mesdames FLEURY, TALMA, BOURGOIN, and VOLNAIS. + +Mademoiselle FLEURY. She has no longer youth nor beauty, and her +talents as an actress are much on a par with her personal +attractions. She recites with judgment, but almost always with +languor, and betrays a want of warmth. Besides, her powers have +declined. However, she sometimes displays energetic flashes of a real +tragic truth; but they are borrowed, and it is affirmed, not without +foundation, that Mademoiselle SAINVAL the elder (who is still living) +has been so obliging as to lend them to her. + +Madame TALMA. For this name she is indebted to a divorce, having +snatched TALMA from his first wife, an elderly woman who had ruined +herself for him, or whom he had ruined. She quitted her first +husband, a dancing-master of the name of PETIT, to live under the +more than friendly protection of Mademoiselle RAUCOURT.----Madame +TALMA is not handsome, and is now on the wane. She plays tragedy, +comedy, and the _drame_; but has no real talent, except in the +last-mentioned line. In the first, she wants nobleness and energy. +Her delivery is monotonous. It is said in her praise, that she has +"_tears in her voice_." I believe that it seldom happens to her to +have any in her eyes, and that this sensibility, for which some would +give her credit, proceeds not from her heart. In comedy, she wishes +to assume a cavalier and bold manner, brought into vogue by +Mademoiselle CONTAT. This manner by no means suits Madame TALMA, who +neither has elegance in her shape, nor animation in her features. In +the _drame_, her defects disappear, and her good qualities remain. +She then is really interesting, and her efforts to please are +rewarded by the applause of the public. + +Mademoiselle BOURGOIN. With respect to this young lady, a powerful +protection serves her in lieu of talent; for she is handsome. She +persists in playing tragedy, which is not her fort. In comedy, she +appears to advantage. + +Mademoiselle VOLNAIS. This is a very young girl. All she says is in a +crying tone, and what is worse, she seems not to comprehend what she +says. In the characters which she first represented she was very +successful, but is no longer so at the present day. + + +_Characters of Confidantes._ + +Mesdames SUIN and THÉNARD. + +There are two only who are deserving of notice. The one is Madame +SUIN, who certainly justifies the character she bears of a woman of +judgment; for she has the most just delivery of all the performers +belonging to the _Théâtre Français_; but she is advanced in years, +and the public often treat her with rudeness. The other confidante is +Mademoiselle THÉNARD, who has played the parts of princesses at this +theatre with a partial success. + +There are also other confidantes, whom it is not worth while to +mention. + +I shall conclude this account of the tragedians belonging to the +_Théâtre Français_, by observing that the revolution is said to have +given a new turn to the mind and character of the French women; and +the success which several actresses, at this day obtain in the +dramatic career, in the line of tragedy, is quoted in support of this +opinion. For a number of years past, as has been seen, Melpomene +seemed to have placed the diadem on the head of Mademoiselle +RAUCOURT, and this tragic queen would probably have grown gray under +the garments of royalty, had not the revolution imparted to her sex a +degree of energy sufficient for them to dispute her empire. Women +here have seen so many instances of cruelty, during the last ten or +twelve years, they have participated, in a manner more or less +direct, in an order of things so replete with tragical events, that +those among them who feel a _penchant_ for the stage, find +themselves, in consequence, disposed to figure in tragedy.[10] + +[Footnote 1: _Fénélon_ is no longer performed. It is a very bad +tragedy by _Chénier_.] + +[Footnote 2: There are players members of the National Institute. +MONVEL belongs to the Class of Literature and the Fine Arts.] + +[Footnote 3: Notwithstanding the ill effects likely to result from +such doctrine, far more dangerous to society than the poniards of a +host of assassins, it appears that, when those actors called +terrorists, or partisans of terror, were hunted down, MONVEL was not +molested.] + +[Footnote 4: There are a great many enthusiastic admirers of his +talent.] + +[Footnote 5: It is really to TALMA that the French are indebted for +the exact truth of costume which is at this day to be admired on the +theatres of Paris, especially in new pieces. An inhabitant of a +country the most remote might believe himself in his native land; and +were an ancient Greek or Roman to come to life again, he might +imagine that the fashion of his day had experienced no alteration.] + +[Footnote 6: The subject of it is the massacre of St. Bartholomew's +day.] + +[Footnote 7: He wears his hair cut short, and without powder.] + +[Footnote 8: One evening at the opera, M. DE DURAS authoritatively +took possession of a box hired for the night by another person. The +latter, dreading his power, but at the same time desirous to +stigmatize him, said: "'Tis not he who took Minorca, 'tis not he who +took this place nor that, the man of whom I complain, never took any +thing in his life but my box at the opera!"] + +[Footnote 9: All the princes and princesses of the House of Austria +have the under-lip very prominent.] + +[Footnote 10: The example of Mesdemoiselles BOURGOIN and VOLNAIS +having proved that first-rate talents were not necessary for being +received at the _Théâtre Français_, as a tragic queen or princess, +the number of candidates rapidly increased. For several months past, +the merit of these _débutantes_ has been the general concern of all +Paris. Each had her instructor, and, of course, was carefully tutored +for the occasion. + +M. LEGOUVÉ, the tragic writer, first brought forward on this stage +Mademoiselle DUCHESNOIS, a girl about twenty, extremely ill-favoured +by nature. DUGAZON, the actor, next introduced Madame XAVIER, a very +handsome and elegant woman. Lastly, Mademoiselle RAUCOURT presented +her pupil, Mademoiselle GEORGES WEIMER, a young girl of perfect +beauty. Mademoiselle DUCHESNOIS played _Phèdre_, in RACINE'S tragedy +of that name, seven successive times. She certainly displayed a +semblance of sensibility, and, notwithstanding the disadvantages of +her person, produced such an effect on the senses of the debauched +Parisian youth by the libidinous manner she adopted in the scene +where _Phèdre_ declares her unconquerable passion for her son-in-law +_Hippolyte_, that her success was complete. What greater proof can be +adduced of the vitiated taste of the male part of the audience? She +also performed _Sémiramis_, _Didon_, and _Hermione_; but in the first +two characters she betrayed her deficiency. The next who entered the +lists was Madame XAVIER. On her _début_ in _Sémiramis_, she was +favourably received by the public; but, afterwards, choosing to act +_Hermione_, the partisans of Mademoiselle DUCHESNOIS assembled in +such numbers as to constitute a decided majority in the theatre. Not +content with interrupting Madame XAVIER, and hissing her off the +stage, they waited for her at the door of the play-house, and loaded +her with the grossest abuse and imprecations. Lastly appeared +Mademoiselle GEORGES WEIMER. Warned by the disgraceful conduct of the +_Duchesnistes_ (as they are called) towards Madame XAVIER, the +comedians, by issuing a great number of _orders_, contrived to +anticipate them, and obtain a majority, especially in the pit. +Mademoiselle GEORGES made her _début_ in the character of +_Clitemnestre_, and was well received. Her beauty excited enthusiasm, +and effected a wonderful change in public opinion. After playing +several parts in which Mademoiselle DUCHESNOIS had either failed, or +was afraid to appear, she at last ventured to rival her in that of +_Phèdre_. At the first representation of the piece, Mademoiselle +GEORGES obtained only a partial success; but, at the second, she was +more fortunate. The consequence, however, had well nigh proved truly +tragic. The _Duchesnistes_ and _Georgistes_ had each taken their +posts, the one on the right side of the pit; the other, on the left. +When Mademoiselle GEORGES was called for after the performance, and +came forward, in order to be applauded, the former party hissed her, +when the latter falling on them, a general battle ensued. The guard +was introduced to separate the combatants; but the _Duchesnistes_ +were routed; and, being the aggressors, several of them were +conducted to prison. The First Consul assisted at this +representation; yet his presence had no effect whatever in +restraining the violence of these dramatic factions. + +Since then, Mesdemoiselles DUCHESNOIS and GEORGES have both been +received into the company of the _Théâtre Français_. Madame XAVIER +has returned to the provinces.] + + + +LETTER LV. + +_Paris, January 22, 1802._ + +The observation with which I concluded my last letter, might explain +why the votaries of Thalia gain so little augmentation to their +number; while those of Melpomene are daily increasing. I shall now +proceed to investigate the merits of the former, at the _Théâtre +Français_. + + +COMEDY. + + +_Parts of noble Fathers._ + +VANHOVE and NAUDET. + +VANHOVE. This actor is rather more sufferable in comedy than tragedy; +but in both he is very monotonous, and justifies the lines applied to +him by a modern satirist, M. DESPAZE: + + "VANHOVE, _plus heureux, psalmodie à mon gré; + Quel succès l'attendait, s'il eût été Curé!_" + +NAUDET. I have already said that the Reverend Father NAUDET, as he is +called, played the parts of tyrants in tragedy. Never did tyrant +appear so inoffensive. As well as VANHOVE, in comedy, he neither +meets with censure nor applause from the public. + + +_First parts, or principal lovers, in Comedy._ + +MOLÉ, FLEURY, and BAPTISTE the elder. + +MOLÉ. At this name I breathe. Perhaps you have imagined that +ill-humour or caprice had till now guided my pen; but, could I praise +the talent of MOLÉ as he deserves, you would renounce that opinion. + +MOLÉ made his _début_ at the _Comédie Française_ about forty-five +years ago. He had some success; but as the Parisian public did not +then become enthusiasts in favour of mere beginners, he was sent into +the provinces to acquire practice. At the expiration of two or three +years, he returned, and was received to play the parts of young +lovers in tragedy and comedy. He had not all the nobleness requisite +for the first-mentioned line of acting; but he had warmth and an +exquisite sensibility. In a word, he maintained his ground by the +side of Mademoiselle DUMESNIL and LEKAIN, two of the greatest +tragedians that ever adorned the French stage. For a long time he was +famous in the parts of _petits-maîtres_, in which he shone by his +vivacity, levity, and grace. + +This actor was ambitious in his profession. Although applauded, and +perhaps more so than LEKAIN, he was perfectly sensible that he +produced not such great, such terrible effects; and he favoured the +introduction of the _drame_, which is a mixture of tragedy and +comedy. But those who most detest the whining style of this species +of composition are compelled to acknowledge that MOLÉ was fascinating +in the part of _St. Albin_, in DIDEROT'S _Père de Famille_. + +BELLECOURT being dead, MOLÉ took the first parts in comedy, with the +exception of a few of those in which his predecessor excelled, whose +greatest merit, I understand, was an air noble and imposing in the +highest degree. As this was MOLÉ's greatest deficiency, he +endeavoured to make amends for it by some perfection. He had no +occasion to have recourse to art. It was sufficient for him to employ +well the gifts lavished on him by nature. Though now verging on +seventy, no one expresses love with more eloquence (for sounds too +have theirs), or with more charm and fire than MOLÉ. In the fourth +act of the _Misanthrope_, he ravishes and subdues the audience, when, +after having overwhelmed _Célimène_ with reproaches, he paints to her +the love with which he is inflamed. But this sentiment is not the +only one in the expression of which MOLÉ is pre-eminently successful. + +In the _Philinte de Molière_, which also bears the title of _La Suite +du Misanthrope_, and in which FABRE D'EGLANTINE has presented the +contrast between an egotist and a man who sacrifices his interest to +that of his fellow-creatures, MOLÉ vents all the indignation of +virtue with a warmth, a truth, and even a nobleness which at this day +belong only to himself. In short, he performs this part, in which the +word _love_ is not once mentioned, with a perfection that he +maintains from the first line to the last. + +In the fifth act of _Le Dissipateur_ (a comedy by DESTOUCHES), when +he sees himself forsaken by his companions of pleasure, and thinks he +is so by his mistress too, the expression of his grief is so natural, +that you imagine you see the tears trickling from his eyes. In +moments when he pictures love, his voice, which at times is somewhat +harsh, is softened, lowers its key, and (if I may so express myself) +goes in search of his heart, in order to draw from it greater +flexibility and feeling. The effect which he produces is irresistible +and universal. Throughout the house the most profound silence is +rigidly, but sympathetically enforced; so great is the apprehension +of losing a single monosyllable in these interesting moments, which +always appear too short. To this silence succeed shouts of +acclamation and bursts of applause. I never knew any performer +command the like but Mademoiselle SAINVAL the elder. + +In no character which MOLÉ performs, does he ever fail to deserve +applause; but there is one, above all, which has infinitely added to +his reputation. It is that of the _Vieux Célibataire_ in the comedy +of the same name by COLIN D'HARLEVILLE, which he personates with a +good humoured frankness, an air of indolence and apathy, and at the +same time a grace that will drive to despair any one who shall +venture to take up this part after him. On seeing him in it, one can +scarcely believe that he is the same man who renders with such warmth +and feeling the part of _Alceste_ in the _Misanthrope_, and in the +_Suite de Molière_; but MOLÉ, imbibing his talent from nature, is +diversified like her. + +Caressed by the women, associating with the most amiable persons both +of the court and the town, and, in short, idolized by the public, +till the revolution, no performer led a more agreeable life than +MOLÉ. However, he was not proscribed through it, and this was his +fault. Not having been imprisoned like the other actors of the old +_Comédie Française_, he had no share in their triumph on their +reappearance, and it even required all his talent to maintain his +ground; but, as it appears that no serious error could be laid to his +charge, and as every thing is forgotten in the progress of events, he +resumed part of his ascendency. I shall terminate this article or +panegyric, call it which you please, by observing that whenever MOLÉ +shall retire from the _Théâtre Français_, and his age precludes a +contrary hope, the best stock-pieces can no longer be acted.[1] + +FLEURY. A man can no more be a comedian in spite of Thalia than a +poet in spite of Minerva. Of this FLEURY affords a proof. This actor +is indebted to the revolution for the reputation he now enjoys; but +what is singular, it is not for having shewn himself the friend of +that great political convulsion. Nature has done little for him. His +appearance is common; his countenance, stern; his voice, hoarse; and +his delivery, embarrassed; so much so that he speaks only by +splitting his syllables. A stammering lover! MOLÉ, it is true, +sometimes indulged in a sort of stammer, but it was suited to the +moment, and not when he had to express the ardour of love. A lover, +such as is represented to us in all French comedies, is a being +highly favoured by Nature, and FLEURY shews him only as much +neglected by her. A great deal of assurance and a habit of the stage, +a warmth which proceeds from the head only, and a sort of art to +disguise his defects, with him supply the place of talent. Although +naturally very heavy, he strives to appear light and airy in the +parts of _petits-maîtres_, and his great means of success consist in +turning round on his heel. He was calculated for playing _grims_ +(which I shall soon explain), and he proves this truth in the little +comedy of _Les Deux Pages_, taken from the life of the king of +Prussia, the great Frederic, of whose caricature he is the living +model. He wished to play capital parts, the parts of MOLÉ, and he +completely failed. He ventured to appear in the _Inconstant_, in +which MOLÉ is captivating, and it was only to his disgrace. Being +compelled to relinquish this absurd pretension, he now confines +himself to new or secondary parts, in the former of which he has to +dread no humiliating comparison, and the latter are not worthy to be +mentioned. + +Friends within and without the theatre, and the spirit of party, +have, however, brought FLEURY into fashion. He will, doubtless, +preserve his vogue; for, in Paris, when a man has once got a name, he +may dispense with talent: + + "_Des réputations; on ne sait pourquoi!" + +says GRESSET, the poet, in his comedy of _Le Méchant_, speaking of +those which are acquired in the capital of France. + +BAPTISTE the elder. But for the revolution, he too would, in all +probability, never have figured on the _Théâtre Français_. When all +privileges were abolished, a theatre was opened in the _Rue Culture +St. Catherine_ in Paris, and BAPTISTE was sent for from Rouen to +perform the first parts. In _Robert Chef des Brigands_ and _La Mère +Coupable_, two _drames_, the one almost as full of improbabilities as +the other, he had great success; but in _Le Glorieux_ he acquired a +reputation almost as gigantic as his stature, and as brilliant as his +coat covered with spangles. This was the part in which BELLECOURT +excelled, and which had been respected even by MOLÉ. The latter at +length appeared in it; but irony, which is the basis of this +character, was not his talent: yet MOLÉ having seen the court, and +knowing in what manner noblemen conducted themselves, BAPTISTE had an +opportunity of correcting himself by him in the part of _Le +Glorieux_. + +The _Théâtre Français_ being in want of a performer for such +characters, BAPTISTE was called in. Figure to yourself the person of +Don Quixote, and you will have an idea of that of this actor, whose +countenance, however, is unmeaning, and whose voice seems to issue +from the mouth of a speaking-trumpet. + + +Jeunes premiers, _or young lovers, in Comedy_. + +ST. FAL, DUPONT, DAMAS, and ARMAND. + +One might assemble what is best in these four actors, without making +one perfect _lover_. I have already spoken of the first three, who, +in comedy, have nearly the same defects as in tragedy. As for the +fourth, he is young; but unfortunately for him, he has no other +recommendation. + + +_Characters of_ Grims, _or_ Rôles à manteau.[2] + +GRANDMÉNIL and CAUMONT. + +GRANDMÉNIL. This performer is, perhaps, the only one who has +preserved what the French critics call _la tradition_, that is, a +traditionary knowledge of the old school, or of the style in which +players formerly acted, and especially in the time of MOLIÈRE. This +would be an advantage for him, but for a defect which it is not in +his power to remedy; for what avails justness of diction when a +speaker can no longer make himself heard? And this is the case with +GRANDMÉNIL. However, I would advise you to see him in the character +of the _Avare_ (in MOLIÈRE'S comedy of that name) which suits him +perfectly. By placing yourself near the stage, you might lose nothing +of the truth and variety of his delivery, as well as of the play of +his countenance, which is facilitated by his excessive meagreness, +and to which his sharp black eyes give much vivacity. + +GRANDMÉNIL is member of the National Institute. + +CAUMONT. He possesses that in which his principal in this cast of +parts is deficient, and little more. One continually sees the efforts +he makes to be comic, which sufficiently announces that he is not +naturally so. However, he has a sort of art, which consists in +straining his acting a little without overcharging it. + + +_Parts of Valets_. + +DUGAZON, DAZINCOURT, and LAROCHELLE. + +DUGAZON. One may say much good and much ill of this actor, and yet be +perfectly correct. He has no small share of warmth and comic humour. +He plays sometimes as if by inspiration; but more frequently too he +charges his parts immoderately. PRÉVILLE, who is no common authority, +said of DUGAZON: "How well he can play, if he is in the humour!" He +is but seldom in the humour, and when he is requested not to +overcharge his parts, 'tis then that he charges them most. Not that +he is a spoiled child of the public; for they even treat him +sometimes with severity. True it is that he is reproached for his +conduct during the storms of the revolution. Although advanced in +years, he became Aide-de-camp to SANTERRE.----SANTERRE! An execrable +name, and almost generally execrated! Is then a mixture of horror and +ridicule one of the characteristics of the revolution? And must a +painful remembrance come to interrupt a recital which ought to recall +cheerful ideas only? In his quality of Aide-de-camp to the Commandant +of the national guard of Paris, DUGAZON was directed to superintend +the interment of the unfortunate Lewis XVI, and in order to consume +in an instant the body of that prince, whose pensioner he had been, +he caused it to be placed in a bed of quick lime. No doubt, DUGAZON +did no more than execute the orders he received; but he was to blame +in putting himself in a situation to receive them. + +Not to return too abruptly to the tone which suits an article wherein +I am speaking of actors playing comic parts, I shall relate a +circumstance which had well nigh become tragic, in regard to DUGAZON, +and which paints the temper of the time when it took place. Being an +author as well as an actor, DUGAZON had written a little comedy, +entitled _Le Modéré_. It was his intention to depress the quality +indicated by the title. However, he was thought to have treated his +subject ill, and, after all, to have made his _modéré_ an honest man. +In consequence of this opinion, at the very moment when he was coming +off the stage, after having personated that character in his piece, +he was apprehended and taken to prison. + +DAZINCOURT. In no respect can the same reproaches be addressed to him +as to DUGAZON; but as to what concerns the art, it may be said that +if DUGAZON goes beyond the mark, DAZINCOURT falls short of it. +PRÉVILLE said of the latter as a comedian: "Leaving pleasantry out of +the question, DAZINCOURT is well enough." Nothing can be added to the +opinion of that great master. + +LAROCHELLE. He has warmth, truth, and much comic humour; but is +sometimes a little inclined to charge his parts. He has a good stage +face. It appears that he can only perform parts not overlong, as his +voice easily becomes hoarse. This is a misfortune both for himself +and the public; for he really might make a good comedian. + +There are a few secondary actors in the comic line, such as BAPTISTE +the younger, who performs in much too silly a manner his parts of +simpletons, and one DUBLIN, who is the ostensible courier; not to +speak of some others, whose parts are of little importance. + + +_January 22, in continuation,_ + + +_Principal female Characters, in Comedy._ + +Mesdemoiselles CONTAT, and MÉZERAY.--Madame TALMA. + +Mademoiselle CONTAT. This actress has really brought about a +revolution in the theatre. Before her time, the essential requisites +for the parts which she performs, were sensibility, decorum, +nobleness, and dignity, even in diction, as well as in gestures, and +deportment. Those qualities are not incompatible with the grace, the +elegance of manners, and the playfulness also required by those +characters, the principal object of which is to interest and please, +which ought only to touch lightly on comic humour, and not be +assimilated to that of chambermaids, as is done by Mademoiselle +CONTAT. A great coquette, for instance, like _Célimène_ in the +_Misanthrope_, ought not to be represented as a girl of the town, nor +_Madame de Clainville_, in the pretty little comedy of _La Gageure_, +as a shopkeeper's wife. + +The innovation made by Mademoiselle CONTAT was not passed over +without remonstrance. Those strict judges, those conservators of +rules, those arbiters of taste, in short, who had been long in the +habit of frequenting the theatre, protested loudly against this new +manner of playing the principal characters. "That is not becoming!" +exclaimed they incessantly: which signified "that is not the truth!" +But what could the feeble remonstrances of the old against the warm +applause of the young? + +Mademoiselle CONTAT had a charming person, of which you may still be +convinced. She was not then, as she is now, overloaded with +_embonpoint_, and, though rather inclined to stoop, could avail +herself of the advantages of an elevated stature. None of the +resources of the toilet were neglected by her, and for a long time +the most elegant women in Paris took the _ton_ for dress from +Mademoiselle CONTAT. Besides, she always had a delicacy of +discrimination in her delivery, and a varied sprightliness in the +_minutiæ_ of her acting. Her voice, though sometimes rather shrill, +is not deficient in agreeableness, but is easily modulated, except +when it is necessary for her to express feeling. The inferiority of +Mademoiselle CONTAT on this head is particularly remarkable when she +plays with MOLÉ. In a very indifferent comedy, called _Le Jaloux sans +amour_, at the conclusion of which the husband entreats his wife to +pardon his faults, MOLÉ contrives to find accents so tender, so +affecting; he envelops his voice, as it were, with sounds so soft, so +mellow, and at the same time so delicate, that the audience, fearing +to lose the most trifling intonation, dare not draw their breath. +Mademoiselle CONTAT replies, and, although she has to express the +same degree of feeling, the charm is broken. + +Being aware that the want of nobleness and sensibility was a great +obstacle to her success, this actress endeavoured to insure it by +performing characters which require not those two qualities. The +first she selected for her purpose was _Susanne_ in the _Mariage de +Figaro_. _Susanne_ is an elegant and artful chambermaid; and +Mademoiselle CONTAT possessed every requisite for representing well +the part. She had resigned the principal character in the piece to +Mademoiselle SAINVAL the younger, an actress who was celebrated in +tragedy, but had never before appeared in comedy. On this occasion, I +saw Mademoiselle SAINVAL play that ungracious part with a truth, a +grace, a nobleness, a dignity, a perfection in short, of which no +idea had yet been entertained in Paris. + +Another part in which Mademoiselle CONTAT also rendered herself +famous, is that of _Madame Evrard_, in the _Vieux Célibataire_. +--_Madame Evrard_ is an imperious, cunning, and roguish housekeeper; +and this actress has no difficulty in seizing the _ton_ suitable to +such a character. This could not be done by one habituated to a more +noble manner. Mademoiselle CONTAT has not followed the impulse of +Nature, who intended her for the characters of _soubrettes_; but, +when she made her _début_, there were in that cast of parts three or +four women not deficient in merit, and it would have taken her a long +time to make her way through them. + +The parts which Mademoiselle CONTAT plays at present with the +greatest success are those in the pieces of MARIVAUX, which all bear +a strong resemblance, and the nature of which she alters; for it is +also one of her defects to change always the character drawn by the +author. The reputation enjoyed by this actress is prodigious; and +such a _critique_ as the one I am now writing would raise in Paris a +general clamour. Her defects, it is true, are less prominent at this +day, when hereditary rank is annihilated; and merit, more than +manners, raises men to the highest stations. Besides, it is a +presumption inherent in the Parisians to believe that they never can +be mistaken. To reason with them on taste is useless; it is +impossible to compel them to retract when they have once said "_Cela +est charmant_." + +Before I take leave of Mademoiselle CONTAT, I shall observe that +there exists in the _Théâtre Français_ a little league, of which she +is the head. Besides herself, it is composed of Mademoiselle +DEVIENNE, DAZINCOURT, and FLEURY. I am confidently assured that the +choice and reception of pieces, and the _début_ of performers depend +entirely on them. As none of them possess all the requisites for +their several casts of parts, they take care to play no other than +pieces of an equivocal kind, in which neither _bon ton_, nor _vis +comica_ is to be found. They avoid, above all, those of MOLIÈRE and +REGNARD, and are extremely fond of the comedies of MARIVAUX, in which +masters and lackies express themselves and act much alike. The unison +is then perfect, and some people call this _de l'ensemble_, as if any +could result from such a confusion of parts of an opposite nature. As +for new pieces, the members of the league must have nothing but +_papillotage_ (as the French call it), interspersed with allusions to +their own talent, which the public never fail to applaud. When an +author has inserted such compliments in his piece, he is sure of its +being received, but not always of its being successful; for when the +ground is bad, the tissue is good for nothing. + +Mademoiselle MÉZERAY. She is of the school of Mademoiselle CONTAT, +whence have issued only feeble pupils. But she is very pretty, and +has the finest eyes imaginable. She plays the parts of young +coquettes, in which her principal dares no longer appear. Without +being vulgar in her manner, one cannot say that she has dignity. As +for sensibility, she expresses it still less than Mademoiselle +CONTAT. However, the absence of this sentiment is a defect which is +said to be now common among the French. Indeed, if it be true that +they are fickle, and this few will deny, the feeling they possess +cannot be lasting. + +Madame TALMA. I have already spoken of her merits as a comic actress, +when I mentioned her as a tragedian. + + +_Parts of young Lovers._ + +Mesdemoiselles MARS, BOURGOIN, and GROS. + +Mademoiselle MARS. She delivers in an ingenuous manner innocent +parts, and those of lovers. She has modest graces, an interesting +countenance, and appears exceedingly handsome on the stage. But she +will never be a true actress. + +Mademoiselle BOURGOIN. She has some disposition for comedy, which she +neglects, and has none for tragedy, in which she is ambitious to +figure. I have already alluded to her beauty, which is that of a +pretty _grisette_. + +Mademoiselle GROS. She is the pupil of DUGAZON, and made her _début_ +in tragedy. The newspaper-writers transformed her into Melpomene, yet +so rapid was her decline, that presently she was scarcely more than a +waiting woman to Thalia. + + +Characters, _or foolish Mothers_. + +Mesdemoiselles LACHAISSAIGNE and THÉNARD. + +The latter of these titles explains the former. In fact, this cast of +parts consists of _characters_, that is, foolish or crabbed old +women, antiquated dowagers in love, &c. Commonly, these parts are +taken up by actresses grown too old for playing _soubrettes_; but to +perform them well, requires no trifling share of comic humour; for, +in general, they are charged with it. At the present day, this +department may be considered as vacant. Mademoiselle LACHAISSAIGNE, +who is at the head of it, is very old, and never had the requisites +for performing in it to advantage. Mademoiselle THÉNARD begins to +_double_ her in this line of acting, but in a manner neither more +sprightly nor more captivating. + + +_Parts of_ Soubrettes _or Chambermaids_. + +Mesdemoiselles DEVIENNE and DESBROSSES. + +Mademoiselle DEVIENNE. If Mademoiselle CONTAT changes the principal +characters in comedy into those of chambermaids, Mademoiselle +DEVIENNE does the contrary, and from the same motive, namely, because +she is deficient in the requisites for her cast of parts, such as +warmth, comic truth, and vivacity. Yet, while she assumes the airs of +a fine lady, she takes care to dwell on the slightest _équivoque_; so +that what would be no more than gay in the mouth of another woman, in +hers becomes indecent. As she is a mannerist in her acting, some +think it perfect, and they say too that she is charming. However, she +must have been very handsome. + +Mademoiselle DESBROSSES. The public say nothing of her, and I think +this is all she can wish for. + + * * * * * + +I have now passed in review before you those who are charged to +display to advantage the dramatic riches bequeathed to the French +nation by CORNEILLE, RACINE, MOLIÈRE, CRÉBILLON, VOLTAIRE, REGNARD, +&c. &c. &c. If it be impossible to squander them, at least they may +at present be considered as no more than a buried treasure. Although +the _chefs d'oeuvre_ of those masters of the stage are still +frequently represented, and the public even appear to see them with +greater pleasure than new pieces, they no longer communicate that +electric fire which inflames genius, and (if I may use the +expression) renders it productive. A great man can, it is true, +create every thing himself; but there are minds which require an +impulse to be set in motion. Without a CORNEILLE, perhaps the French +nation would not have had a RACINE. + +Formerly, people went to the _Théâtre Français_ in order to hear, as +it were, a continual course of eloquence, elocution, and +pronunciation. It even had the advantage over the pulpit and the bar, +where vivacity of expression was prohibited or restricted. Many a +sacred or profane orator came hither, either privately or publicly, +to study the art by which great actors, at pleasure, worked on the +feelings of the audience, and charmed their very soul. It was, above +all, at the _Théâtre Français_ that foreigners might have learned to +pronounce well the French language. The audience shuddered at the +smallest fault of pronunciation committed by a performer, and a +thousand voices instantly corrected him. At the present day, the +comedians insist that it belongs to them alone to form rules on this +point, and they now and then seem to vie with each other in despising +those already established. The audience being perhaps too indulgent, +they stand uncorrected. + +Whether or not the _Théâtre Français_ will recover its former fame, +is a question which Time alone can determine. Undoubtedly, many +persons of a true taste and an experienced ear have disappeared, and +no one now seems inclined to say to the performers: "That is the +point which you must attain, and at which you must stop, if you wish +not to appear deficient, or to overact your part." But the fact is, +they are without a good model, and the spectators, in general, are +strangers to the _minutiæ/i> of dramatic excellence. In tragedy, +indeed, I am inclined to think that there never existed at the +_Théâtre Français_ such a deficiency of superior talents. When LEKAIN +rose into fame, there were not, I have been told, any male performers +who went as far as himself, though several possessed separately the +qualifications necessary for that line. However, there was +Mademoiselle DUMESNIL, a pupil of nature, from whom he might learn to +express all the passions; while from Mademoiselle CLAIRON he might +snatch all the secrets of art. + +As for Comedy, it is almost in as desperate a situation. The _ton_ of +society and that of comedians may have a reciprocal influence, and +the revolution having tended to degrade the performance of the +latter, the consequences may recoil on the former. But here I must +stop.--I shall only add that it is not to the revolution that the +decline of the art, either in tragedy or comedy, is to be imputed. It +is, I understand, owing to intrigue, which has, for a long time past, +introduced pitiful performers on the stage of the _Théâtre Français_, +and to a multiplicity of other causes which it would be too tedious +to discuss, or even to mention. Notwithstanding the encomiums daily +lavished on the performers by the venal pen of newspaper writers, the +truth is well known here on this subject. Endeavours are made by the +government to repair the mischief by forming pupils; but how are they +to be formed without good masters or good models? + +[Footnote 1: It must grieve every admirer of worth and talent to hear +that MOLÉ is now no more. Not long since he paid the debt of nature. +As an actor, it is more than probable that "we ne'er shall look on +his like again."] + +[Footnote 2: The word _Grim_, in French theatrical language, is +probably derived from _grimace_, and the expression of _Rôles à +manteau_ arises from the personages which they represent being old +men, who generally appear on the stage with a cloak.] + + + +LETTER LVI. + +_Paris, January 24, 1802._ + +Among the customs introduced here since the revolution, that of women +appearing in public in male attire is very prevalent. The more the +Police endeavours to put a stop to this extravagant whim, the more +some females seek excuses for persisting in it: the one makes a +pretext of business which obliges her to travel frequently, and +thinks she is authorized to wear men's clothes as being more +convenient on a journey; another, of truly-elegant form, dresses +herself in this manner, because she wishes to attract more notice by +singularity, without reflecting that, in laying aside her proper +garb, she loses those feminine graces, the all-seductive +accompaniments of beauty. Formerly, indeed, nothing could tend more +to disguise the real shape of a woman than the + +COSTUME OF THE FRENCH LADIES. + +A head-dress, rising upwards of half a yard in height, seemed to +place her face near the middle of her body; her stomach was +compressed into a stiff case of whalebone, which checked respiration, +and deprived her almost of the power of eating; while a pair of +cumbersome hoops, placed on her hips, gave to her petticoats the +amplitude of a small elliptical, inflated balloon. Under these +strange accoutrements, it would, at first sight, almost have puzzled +BUFFON himself to decide in what species such a female animal should +be classed. However, this is no longer an enigma. + +With the parade of a court, all etiquette of dress disappeared. +Divested of their uncouth and unbecoming habiliments, the women +presently adopted a style of toilet not only more advantageous to the +display of their charms, but also more analogous to modern manners. + +No sooner was France proclaimed a republic, than the annals of +republican antiquity were ransacked for models of female attire: the +Roman tunic and Greek _cothurnus_ soon adorned the shoulders of the +Parisian _élégantes_; and every antique statue or picture, relating +to those periods of history, was, in some shape or another, rendered +tributary to the ornament of their person. + +This revolution in their dress has evidently tended to strengthen +their constitution, and give them a pectoral _embonpoint_, very +agreeable, no doubt, to the amateur of female proportion, but the too +open exposure of which cannot, in a moral point of view, be +altogether approved. These treasures are, in consequence, now as +plentiful as they were before uncommon. You can scarcely move a step +in Paris without seeing something of this kind to exercise your +admiration. Many of those domains of love, which, under the +old-fashioned dress, would have been considered as a flat country, +now present, through a transparent crape, the perfect rotundity of +two sweetly-rising hillocks. As prisoners, wan and disfigured by +confinement, recover their health and fulness on being restored to +liberty, so has the bosom of the Parisian belles, released from the +busk and corset, experienced a salutary expansion. + +In a political light, this must afford no small satisfaction to him +who takes an interest in the physical improvement of the human +species, as it tends to qualify them better for that maternal office, +dictated by Nature, and which, in this country, has too long and too +frequently been intrusted to the uncertain discharge of a mercenary +hireling. Another advantage too arises from the established fashion. +Thanks to the ease of their dress, the French ladies can now satisfy +all the capacity of their appetite. Nothing prevents the stomach from +performing its functions; nothing paralyzes the spring of that +essential organ. Nor, indeed, can they be reproached with +fastidiousness on that score. From the soup to the desert, they are +not one moment idle: they eat of every thing on the table, and drink +in due proportion. Not that I would by any means insinuate that they +drink more than is necessary or proper. On the contrary, no women on +earth are more temperate, in this respect, than the French; they, for +the most part, mix water even with their weakest wine; but they also +swallow two or three glasses of _vin de dessert_, without making an +affected grimace, and what is better, they eat at this rate without +any ill consequence, Now, a good appetite and good digestion must +strengthen health, and, in general, tend to produce pectoral +_embonpoint_. + +In this capital, you no longer find among the fair sex those +over-delicate constitutions, whose artificial existence could be +maintained only by salts, essences, and distilled waters. Charms as +fresh as those of Hebe, beauties which might rival the feminine +softness of those of Venus, while they bespeak the vigour of Diana, +and the bloom of Hygëia, are the advantages which distinguish many of +the Parisian belles of the present day, and for which they are, in a +great measure, indebted to the freedom they enjoy under the antique +costume. + +In no part of the world, perhaps, do women pay a more rigid attention +to cleanliness in their person than in Paris. The frequent use of the +tepid bath, and of every thing tending to preserve the beauty of +their fine forms, employ their constant solicitude. So much care is +not thrown away. No where, I believe, are women now to be seen more +uniformly healthy, no where do they possess more the art of assisting +nature; no where, in a word, are they better skilled in concealing +and repairing the ravages of Time, not so much by the use of +cosmetics, as by the tasteful manner in which they vary the +decoration of their person. + + + +LETTER LVII. + +_Paris, January 25, 1802._ + +I have already observed that the general effervescence to which the +revolution gave birth, soon extended to the seminaries of learning. +The alarm-bell resounded even in the most silent of those retreats. +Bands of insurgents, intermixed with women, children, and men of +every condition, came each moment to interrupt the studies, and, +forcing the students to range themselves under their filthy banner, +presented to them the spectacle of every excess. It required not all +this violence to disorganize institutions already become +antiquated,[1] and few of which any longer enjoyed much consideration +in the public opinion. The colleges and universities were deserted, +and their exercises ceased. Not long after, they were suppressed. The +only establishment of this description which has survived the storms +of the revolution, and which is no less important from its utility +than extensive in its object, is the + +COLLÈGE DE FRANCE. + +It neither owed this exemption to its ancient celebrity, nor to the +talents of its professors; but having no rich collections which could +attract notice, no particular estates which could tempt cupidity, it +was merely forgotten by the revolutionists, and their ignorance +insured its preservation. + +The _Collège de France_ is, at the present day, in this country, and +perhaps in the rest of Europe, the only establishment where every +branch of human knowledge is taught in its fullest extent. The object +of this institution is to spread the most elevated notions of the +sciences, to maintain and pave the way to the progress of literature, +either by preserving the taste and purity of the ancient authors, or +by exhibiting the order, lustre, and richness of the modern. Its duty +is to be continually at the head of all the establishments of public +instruction, in order to guide them, lead them on, and, as it were, +light them with the torch of knowledge. + +This college, which is situated in the _Place de Cambray_, _Rue St. +Jacques_, was founded by Francis I. That monarch, distinguished from +all cotemporaries by his genius, amiableness, and magnificence, saw +in literature the source of the glory of princes, and of the +civilization of the people. He loved and honoured it, not only in the +writings of the learned, but in the learned themselves, whom he +called about his person, at the same time loading them with +encouragement and favours. It is singular that those times, so rude +in many respects, were, nevertheless, productive of sentiments the +most delicate and noble. + +Truth never shuns princes who welcome it. Francis I was not suffered +to remain ignorant of the deplorable state in which literature then +was in France, and, though very young, he disdained not this +information. Nothing, in fact, could approach nearer to barbarism. +The impulse Charlemagne had given to study was checked. The torches +he had lighted were on the point of being extinguished. That famous +university which he had created had fallen into decline. A prey to +all the cavils of pedantry, it substituted dispute and quibble to +true philosophy. + +Nothing was any longer talked of but the _five universals_, +_substance_, and _accident_. All the fury of argument was manifested +to know whether those were simple figures, or beings really existing, +all things equally useful to the revival of knowledge and the +happiness of mankind. The Hebrew and Greek tongues were scarcely, if +at all, known; the living languages, little cultivated; Latin itself, +then almost common, was taught in the most rude and imperfect manner. +In short, the most learned body of the State had fallen into the most +profound ignorance: a striking example of the necessity of renewing +continually and maintaining the life of those bodies employed in +instruction. + +I am not speaking of the sciences, then entirely unknown. The +languages were every thing at this period, on account of their +connexion with religion. + +The small number of men of merit whom the bad taste of the age had +not reached, were striving to restore to literature its lustre, and +to men's minds their true direction; but, in order to revive the +taste for good studies, it was necessary to create a new +establishment for public instruction, which should be sufficiently +extensive for acquiring a great influence. It was necessary to +assemble men the most celebrated for their talent and reputation, in +order that, being thus placed in full view, and presented to public +attention, they might rectify the minds of men by their authority, as +well as enlighten them by their knowledge. + +This undertaking, difficult in itself, became much less so through +the circumstances which then existed. Taste seemed to have taken +refuge at the court, and the king easily yielded to the reasons of +the learned who approached him; but no one took a greater share in +this project than the celebrated Erasmus. Remote from it as he was, +he accelerated its execution by the disinterested praises which he +lavished on it. The king sent to invite him, in the most flattering +terms, to take the direction of it and to settle in France; but +Erasmus, jealous of liberty, retained besides by the gratitude he +owed to Charles V, and by the care he bestowed on the College of +Louvain which he had founded, refused this task, equally honourable +and useful. He manifested not the less, in his letters, the joy he +felt to see studies re-established by the only means which could +reanimate them. It is pleasing to the true friends of the sciences to +find among those who cultivate them similar traits of generosity and +nobleness. + +At length peace having restored to France repose and the means of +repairing her losses, the king gave himself up without reserve to the +desire he had of making the sciences flourish, and realized the grand +project of public instruction which had for a long time occupied his +mind. The new college took the name of _Collège Royal_. It had +professors for the Hebrew and Greek tongues, and some even for the +mathematics, philosophy, medicine, and the living languages. + +The formation of the _Collège Royal_ gave great displeasure to the +University. After having held so long without a rival the sceptre of +the sciences and literature, it was grating to its members to +relinquish it. They could ill bear to see set above it an +establishment evidently intended to direct and guide it. Self-love +offended seldom forgives, especially when it is animated by the +_esprit de corps_. The University depreciated the new college, and +endeavoured to fetter it in a thousand ways. At last, those dark +intrigues being constantly smothered by the applause which the +professors received, the University finished by bringing them before +a court of justice. From, envy to persecution there is but one step, +and that step was soon taken. + +Religion served as a pretext and a cloak for this accusation. It was +affirmed that the new professors could not, without danger to the +faith, explain the Hebrew and Greek tongues, if they had not been +presented to the University to be examined by it, and received from +it their mission. To this it was answered, that if the theologians of +the University understood Greek and Hebrew, it must be easy for them +to denounce the passages in which the new professors had erred, and +that if, on the contrary, they did not understand those languages, +they ought not to pretend to judge those who taught them. After long +debates, things were left in the state in which they were before the +trial. Each party continued quietly its lessons, and, as it almost +always happens in such cases, reason ended by having its due weight: +true it is that it was then supported by royal authority. + +The _Collège de France_ has not since ceased to make an increasing +progress. It even had the valuable advantage of reforming itself +successively, and of following new ideas, the necessary result of its +constitution and of the lustre that has always surrounded it; two +causes which have occasioned its chairs to be sought by the most +celebrated men of every description. It is this successive reform +which constitutes the distinctive character of the _Collège de +France_, and which has always enabled it to fulfil its real object. + +Thus, to quote but one example. The chair of Greek philosophy was, in +the beginning, intended to make known the writings of the ancient +philosophers on the nature of things and the organization of the +universe. These were, at that time, the only repositories of human +knowledge for mathematics and physics; but, in proportion as the +sciences, more advanced, substituted rational theories for hazardous +conjectures, the modern discoveries of astronomy were taught, +together with the writings of the ancients. The object of this chair, +which at the present day bears the name of general physics and +mathematics, is to disseminate the most elevated notions of mechanics +and the theory of the system of the world. The works taught by its +occupier are analytical mechanics and celestial mechanics, that is, +those works which form the limits of our knowledge for mathematical +analysis, and consequently those of which it is most important to +increase the very small number of readers. + +By a consequence of that spirit of amelioration which animates this +College, some time before the revolution, a chair and a cabinet of +experimental physics were added to it. + +As for the natural sciences, which are taught here with much depth +and detail in several establishments, they have, in the _Collège de +France_, a sort of regulator which directs them, as it were, by their +generalities. It is, in fact, to this only that an establishment +which, by its nature, contains no collection, ought to attach itself, +and the philosophy of the sciences, the result and completion of +their study, here constitutes the object of all the lectures. + +Thus the improvements which the sciences have successively +experienced, have always been spread by the instruction of the +_Collège Royal_; and among the professors who have occupied its +chairs, none can be quoted who have been strangers to their progress. + +The revolution, which overthrew in France the ancient universities, +suspended for some time the exercises of this establishment; but, +under the name of _Collège de France_, it has since resumed a new +lustre. It then found itself compelled to new efforts, in order to +maintain its place among the scientific institutions, which have +emulously risen in every branch of human knowledge. Nevertheless, +those different sciences, even natural history, and the curative art, +taught with so much perfection in private establishments, have hence +derived great advantages, and here it is that public instruction +comes at once to be resumed, investigated, and extended. + +The present government appears to be perfectly sensible of the +importance of such an establishment. The enlightened men, the +celebrated _savans_, who approach it, have pointed out in the +_Collège de France_ a _normal_ school, completely formed, and which +unites to the extent of its object the ever-powerful ascendant of +seniority. The similarity between the circumstances in which this +institution is at the present day and those when it was founded, +affords the most certain hope of its progress being maintained and +accelerated. + +This is what appears to me the most interesting in the history of +this ancient college. I say nothing of its present professors; their +zeal is proved by their assiduous and uninterrupted lessons; their +merit is before the judgment of the public; and as for their names, +these are indifferent to the results of their labours. If any other +motive than that of the interest of the sciences were blended with +the information I now communicate, I should not think that, in this +letter, I was fulfilling the object of your wishes. + +P.S. It may not be useless to mention that no students are attached +to the _Collège de France_. The lectures are public; and every one +who is desirous of improving his mind in any branch of science, may +attend them free of expense or trouble. It is impossible for the +friend of learning to withhold his admiration from so noble an +institution. What, in fact, can be more liberal than this gratuitous +diffusion of knowledge? + +[Footnote 1: Whatever sentiment may have been preserved respecting +the ancient University of Paris, every impartial person must +acknowledge that it was several centuries in arrear in regard to +every thing which concerns the Arts and Sciences. Peripatetic, when +the learned had, with Descartes, renounced the philosophy of +Aristotle, it became Cartesian, when they were Newtonians. Such is +the too general custom of bodies, engaged in instruction, who make no +discoveries. Invested at their formation with great influence over +scientific opinions, because they are composed of the best informed +men of the day, they wish constantly to preserve those advantages. +They with reluctance suffer that there should be formed, elsewhere +than in their own bosom, new opinions which might balance theirs; and +if the progress of the sciences at last obliges them to abandon their +doctrine, they never adopt the most modern theories, were they, in +other respects, preferable; but embrace those which existed for some +time anterior to them, and which they themselves had before combated. +This inertness of bodies, employed in instruction, is an unavoidable +evil; because it is the effect of self-love, the most invariable of +passions.] + + + +LETTER LVIII. + +_Paris, January 17, 1802._ + +If we do not consider the _Opera Buffa_ as a national theatre, then +the next in rank, after the Grand French Opera and the _Théâtre +Français_, is the + +THÉÂTRE DE L'OPÉRA COMIQUE. + +This house, which is situated in the _Rue Feydeau_, near the _Rue de +la Loi_, was opened for the first time in January 1791. The entrance +to it is by a circular vestibule, externally decorated with +caryatides, and sufficiently spacious for one carriage to enter while +another drives off by an adjoining outlet. At the end of this +vestibule is a long gallery, bordered by shops on both sides, which +forms a second entrance by the _Rue Filles St. Thomas_. + +The interior form of this theatre is a semi-circle, extended in a +right line at its extremities, which places the orchestra in a +central position, and renders the house one of the fittest in Paris +for a concert. Two rows of Gothic pillars, one above the other, +occupy nearly all its height; and though it contains eight tiers of +boxes, five only are in sight. The same distribution repeated in +regard to the stage-boxes, presents a very projecting pavilion, which +seems to support a large triumphal arch. However grand this style of +architecture may be in appearance, in effect it renders the seats +very inconvenient to two-thirds of the spectators. The ornaments +consist of a strange mixture of the Greek, Gothic, and Oriental. The +house is said to contain two thousand persons. + +In the beginning, this theatre united the performers of the original +_Opéra Buffa_ and some of those belonging to the old French Comic +Opera, who played alternately. The former retiring from Paris in +1792, the latter for some time attracted full houses by the +excellence of their style of singing, tasteful decorations, and one +of the best composed orchestras in the capital. + +Since then, it has experienced the changes and vicissitudes attendant +on the revolution. At present, the company is composed of a selection +from the performers of the _Opéra Comique_ of the _Théâtre Favart_ +(formerly known by the name of _Théâtre Italien_), and those of the +lyric theatre of which I am now speaking. This junction has not long +been effected. Previously to its taking place, the _Comédie +Italienne_, where French comic operas only were represented, was +still constituted as it was under the old _régime_, of which it was +remarked as being the sole remnant. + +Formerly, the French Comic Opera was very rich in stock-pieces, +chiefly written by FAVART, SÉDAINE, MARMONTEL, HÈLE,[1] MONVEL, +MARSOLIER, HOFFMAN, and others. Their productions were set to music +by GRÉTRY, MONSIGNY, PHILIDOR, DÉSAÏDES, DALEYRAC, &c. These pieces +are now seldom played, the music of them being antiquated; though for +energy and truth of expression some of it surpasses that of many of +the more modern compositions. The new authors are little known. The +composers of the music are MÉHUL, DALEYRAC before-mentioned, +BOYELDIEU, TARCHI, &c. The modern pieces the most in vogue and most +attractive are _Le Prisonnier_, _l'Opéra Comique_, a piece so called, +_Le Calife de Bagdad_, _Maison à vendre_, _D'Auberge en Auberge_, and +a few others of the same description. All these are really pleasing +comedies. + +The _Théâtre Feydeau_ itself was also in possession of a great number +of stock-pieces, among which were some in the style of the Grand +French Opera. A considerable change seems to have taken place, as the +latter are now no longer represented. + +In surveying the _Opéra Comique_, one would imagine that, in lieu of +one company, two separate ones had been formed to play in the same +theatre. The former is the weaker in number, but the stronger in +talent. The latter, though weaker, has some good performers, in the +long list of those of whom it is composed; but, in general, they are +either no longer in their pristine lustre, or have not yet attained a +competent degree of perfection. + +Seldom are the two companies mixed. Pieces in the style of the modern +_Opéra Comique_, in which easy mirth is replaced by quaint jests, are +played exclusively by the former. They draw crowded houses, as the +public are extremely partial to them. Lyric _drames_ are abandoned to +the latter, and the old stock-pieces to such of the performers as +choose to act in them for a small number of spectators who are so +obliging as to enter the house with _orders_ or _free_ admission. OF +all the repositories of old pieces that of the _Comédie Italienne_ is +the one which is the most entirely neglected. This is rather the +fault of the actors than that of the public. There are many old +productions which would attract a crowd, were the best performers to +play them; but who likes to pay for seeing a master-piece murdered? +--We now come to speak of the qualifications of these performers. + + +_Principal Characters and parts of Lovers._ + +Counter-Tenors. + +ELLEVIOU, GAVAUDAN, PHILIPPE, and GAVEAUX. + +ELLEVIOU. He is the first singer at the _Opéra Comique_. Nor will +this opinion be contradicted by any of the elegant and pretty women +who, slaves to the custom of shewing themselves at the first +representation of a new piece, never begin to applaud till ELLEVIOU +makes his appearance. + +This performer is, in fact, gifted with a handsome person, an easy +manner, an expressive countenance, and a voice, which, when he +modulates it, is charming. His delivery is tolerably good, and in +some parts, he is not deficient in warmth and feeling. As a singer, +ELLEVIOU leaves behind all those destined to second him. After having +begun by singing bass, he has taken the parts of counter-tenor, for +which, however, his voice is not suited, but he makes up for this +deficiency by a very flexible tenor. He displays much art and a very +modern taste. His method too is good; he makes no improper use of his +facility by lavishing graces, but his manner is too uniform. This is +the greatest objection that can be made to him, in the double +capacity of singer and comedian. + +GAVAUDAN. This young actor, with a well-proportioned stature and a +very agreeable countenance, ranks, at the _Opéra Comique_, next in +merit to ELLEVIOU. His voice, as a counter-tenor, is not very +brilliant, nor his means extensive; but his taste is good, and his +method that of the modern school. As a player, he has a certain +repution in lyric _drames_, and especially in those melancholy parts, +the characteristic of which is a concentrated passion. He imitates +TALMA, and, like him, "outsteps the modesty of Nature." + +PHILIPPE. His reputation was begun by the advantages of his person, +and he consolidated it by his performance in the line of +knight-errantry. _Richard, coeur de lion_, was the part which +secured him the public favour. His voice is still an agreeable +counter-tenor; but he declines through age. As an actor, he is +deficient in nobleness, and his gestures are not dignified; but, +being used to the stage, and possessing some feeling, he often +produces happy effects. + +GAVEAUX. He has been a good singer in his youth, and is a very +agreeable composer. He always acquits himself of any part he +undertakes, if not in a brilliant manner, at least with credit. Two +of his musical productions are stock-pieces, and well worth seeing. +_L'Amour Filial_ is a happy imitation of the Italian school, and +_Sophie et Moncars_ is always heard with pleasure. + + +_Characters of Fathers, Valets, or Comic Parts_. + +Bass-voices. + +CHENARD, MARTIN, RÉZICOURT, JULIET, and MOREAU. + +CHENARD. Owing to an advantageous person, this actor once stood as +high in the favour of the ladies as ELLEVIOU does at present. He +still possesses a fine voice, as a bass, but it is not very flexible. +In the part of _Monsieur de la France_, in _l'Épreuve Villageoise_, +he established his fame as a singer; yet his style is not +sufficiently modelled after the modern taste, which is the Italian. +As an actor, he is very useful; but, having always been treated by +the public like a spoiled child, he is too apt to introduce his own +sallies into his parts, which he sometimes charges with vulgarisms of +the lowest description. + +MARTIN. In the parts of valets, MARTIN cannot be better placed than +near ELLEVIOU, whom he seconds with skill and taste. This has led the +composers here to an innovation. Formerly, duets in the graceful +style between men were seldom heard; but the voices of ELLEVIOU and +MARTIN being perfectly adapted to each other, almost all the +composers have written for them duets in which the _cantabile_ +prevails, and concerted cadences are very conspicuous. This, I +understand, is unprecedented in Paris. + +MARTIN made his _début_ in 1783 at the _Théâtre de Monsieur_ in the +company of Italian buffoons. In this school he acquired that taste +which he has since propagated with zeal, if not with success. At the +present day, he is accused of loading his singing with superfluous +embellishments, or of placing them without judgment in passages or +situations where they are ill-suited. However, in _morceaux +d'ensemble_ he is quite at home, and, of course, shews himself to +great advantage. As an actor, he is by no means remarkable, though he +sometimes displays intelligence. + +RÉZICOURT. He may justly be called a good comedian, without examining +his merits as a singer. + +JULIET. In the newspapers, this performer is called _inimitable_. His +manner is his own; yet, perhaps, it would be very dangerous to advise +any one to imitate it. He is not deficient in intelligence, and has +the habit of the stage; but his first quality is to be extremely +natural, particularly in the parts of Peasants, which he performs +with much truth. He seems to be born a player, and though he is not a +musician, he always sings in tune and in time. + +MOREAU. An agreeable person, open countenance, animation, an +ingenuous manner, and an unerring memory. He is very well placed in +young Peasants, such as _Le Bon André_ and _Lubin_ of FAVART, as well +as in the parts of Valets. + + +_Mixed characters of every sort_.--Tenors. + +SOLIÉ, and ST. AUBIN. + +SOLIÉ. He first appeared in the parts of young lovers with a tall +stature and a handsome face, but neither of them being fashioned for +such characters, he met with no applause. His voice was not very +brilliant, but his method of singing was replete with grace and +taste. For this, however, he obtained no credit; the Parisian public +not being yet accustomed to the modern or Italian style. CLAIRVAL, +the first singer at the old _Opéra Comique_, happening to be taken +suddenly ill one night, SOLIÉ undertook his part at a moment's +warning. Success crowned his temerity, and from that moment his merit +was appreciated. His best character is _Micheli_ in _Les deux +Savoyards_, in which he established his reputation. In the pieces of +which MÉHUL has composed the music, he shines by the finished manner +in which he executes it; the _cantabile_ is his fort. As an actor, +his declamation is not natural, and his deportment is too much that +of a mannerist. However, these defects are compensated by his +singing. To the music of others, he does every justice, and that +which he composes himself is extremely agreeable. + +ST. AUBIN. This performer once had a good voice as a counter-tenor; +but as he now plays no other than secondary parts, one might imagine +that he is retained at the theatre only in consideration of his +wife's talents. + + +_Caricatures and Simpletons_. + +DOZAINVILLE, and LESAGE. + +DOZAINVILLE. The person of this actor is very favourable for +caricatures and the characters of simpletons, which he fills. The +meagreness of his countenance renders it very flexible; but not +unfrequently he carries this flexibility to grimace. As a singer, he +must not be mentioned. + +LESAGE. He is a musician, but has little voice. He performs the parts +of simple peasants in a natural manner, but with too much uniformity. +This is is a general defect attached to those characters.--Let me +next introduce the female performers. + + +_First female Singers and Parts of Lovers_. + +Mesdames ST. AUBIN, SCIO, LESAGE, CRÉTU, +PHILIS the elder, GAVAUDAN, and PINGENET. + +Madame ST. AUBIN. She is a capital actress, though chiefly in the +parts of young girls; yet she is the main pillar of the _Opéra +Comique_. She never has been handsome, at least when closely viewed, +and is now on the wane, being turned of forty-five; but her graceful +little figure and delicate features make her appear pretty on the +stage. Neatness and _naïveté_ characterise her acting. She has +scarcely any voice, but no other songs than romances or ballads are +assigned to her. She formerly played at the Grand French Opera, where +she was applauded in noble and impassioned parts, though they are +not, in general, suited to her manner. But an actress, high in favour +with the public, is always applauded in whatever character she +appears. The pieces in which Madame ST. AUBIN excels are _Le +Prisonnier, Adolphe et Clara_, and _L'Opéra Comique_, which is the +title of a piece, as I have already mentioned. + +Madame SCIO. Although she is said not to be well versed in music, she +has a very extensive and powerful voice, but its tones have little +variety. As an actress, she is very indifferent. Without being mean, +she has no nobleness of manner. Like almost all the performers +belonging to the _Opéra Comique_, she delivers ill the dialogue, or +such sentences as are not set to music. As she frequently strains her +acting, persons deficient in taste are pleased to bestow on her the +epithet of _great_ as an actress. However, she played _Médée_ in a +lyric tragedy of that name; but such a Medea was never seen! As a +singer, Madame Scio is a valuable acquisition to this theatre. In +point of person, she is neither ordinary nor handsome. + +Mademoiselle LESAGE. Her singing is chaste, but destitute of that +musical energy which distinguishes great singers. She plays _les +ingénuités_ or innocent characters; but is rather a mannerist, +instead of being childish. She then employs a false voice, not at all +suited to this line of acting, in which every thing should be +natural. + +Madame CRÉTU. This actress came to Paris from Bourdeaux, preceded by +a great reputation. She has been handsome: a clear voice, a good +method of singing, a becoming manner of acting, insured her success. +She is very useful at this theatre, in pieces where the _vis comica_ +does not predominate. + +Mademoiselle PHILIS the elder. This is a pretty pupil of the famous +GARAT. She has a clear pipe, a charming countenance, a quick eye, an +agreeable person, and some taste. She possesses as much merit as an +actress as a singer.[2] + +Madame GAVAUDAN. She is admired for her pretty person, pretty voice, +and pretty carriage. No wonder then that she has greatly contributed +to the success of the little pieces in the style of _Vaudeville_, +which have been performed at this theatre. + +Mesdemoiselles PINGENET. These two sisters are nothing as actresses; +but seem to aspire to the title of singers, especially the elder, who +begins to distinguish herself. + + +_Noble Mothers and Duennas_. + +Mesdames DUGAZON, PHILIPPE, and GONTHIER. + +Madame DUGAZON. Twenty years ago she enjoyed a great name, for which +she was indebted to the bad taste that then prevailed. With large +prominent eyes, and a broad flat nose, she could not be really +handsome; but she had a very animated countenance. In lyric _drames_, +she personated country-girls, chambermaids, and princesses. In the +first-named cast of parts, she had an ingenuous, open, but rustic +manner. She played chambermaids in a style bordering on effrontery. +Lastly, she represented princesses, but without any dignity, and also +women bereft of their reason. The part in which she had the most +vogue was that of _Nina_ in _La Folle par amour_. Her madness, +however, appeared not to be occasioned by the sensibility of her +heart. It was too much inclined to the sentimental cast of Sterne's +Maria. + +Madame DUGAZON, who ought to have been in possession of a +considerable fortune, from the vast sums of money lavished on her by +Englishmen, is at this day reduced to perform the parts of mothers, +in which she acquits herself so as to deserve neither praise nor +censure. + +Madame PHILIPPE. Under the name of DESFORGES, she shone formerly in +the part of _Marguerite_ in _Richard, coeur de lion_. Without being a +superior singer, she executes her songs with feeling. + +Madame GONTHIER. This actress still enjoys the benefit of her former +reputation. She is excellent in a cast of parts become hacknied on +the stage; namely, gossips and nurses. + +I have said nothing of the _doubles_ or duplicates of all these +ladies, as they are, in general, bad copies of the originals. + +The choruses of the _Opéra Comique_ are not very numerous, and have +not the strength and correctness which distinguish those of the Grand +French Opera. Nor could this be expected. The orchestra has been +lately recomposed, and at present consists of a selection of +excellent performers. The scenery, decorations, and dresses are +deserving of commendation. + +[Footnote 1: Or HALE, an Englishman, who wrote _Le Jugement de +Midas_, _l'Amant Jaloux_, and _Les Évenemens Imprevus_, pretty lyric +comedies, especially the last. Notwithstanding the success of his +pieces, this author is said to have died in the greatest distress.] + +[Footnote 2: Not long since she set off for Russia, without apprizing +any one of her intention.] + +[Footnote 3: The commissioner, appointed by the government to +superintend the proceedings of this theatre, has since been replaced +by a _Prefect of the Palace_, whose authority is much the same as +that exercised when each of the principal theatres in Paris was under +the inspection of a _Lord of the Bedchamber_.] + + + +LETTER LIX. + +_Paris, January 29, 1802._ + +Whenever the pen of an impartial writer shall trace the history of +the French revolution, through all its accompanying vicissitudes, it +will be seen that this country owed its salvation to the _savans_ or +men of science. The arts and sciences, which were revived by their +zeal and courage, united with unceasing activity to pave the way to +victories abroad, and repair mischiefs at home. Nor can it be denied, +that every thing which genius, labour, and perseverance could create, +in point of resources, was employed in such a manner that France was +enabled, by land, to make head against almost all Europe, and supply +her own wants, as long as the war lasted. + +The _savans_ who had effected such great things, for some time +enjoyed unlimited influence. It was well known that to them the +Republic was indebted for its safety and very existence. They availed +themselves of this favourable moment for insuring to France that +superiority of knowledge which had caused her to triumph over her +enemies. Such was the origin of the + +POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. + +This establishment had a triple object; namely, to form engineers for +the different services; to spread in civil society enlightened men, +and to excite talents which might promote the sciences. Nothing was +neglected that could tend to the accomplishment of a destination so +important. + +It was, in fact, time to reorganize the instruction of corps destined +for public services, the greater part of which were wholly deficient +in this respect. Some of them, it is true, had particular schools; +but instruction there was feeble and incomplete. That for military +engineers at _Mézieres_, the best conducted of all, and which +admitted twenty pupils only, had suspended its exercises, in +consequence of the revolution. Necessity had occasioned the formation +of a provisionary school, where the pupils received rapidly the first +notions of the attack and defence of places, after which they were +sent to the armies. + +Such institutions neither answered the exigencies of the State, nor +conduced to its glory. Their weakness was, above all, likely to be +felt by men habituated to general ideas, and whose minds were still +more exalted, and views enlarged, by the revolution. Those men wished +that the new _School for Public Works_ should be worthy of the +nation. Their plan was extensive in its object, but simple in its +execution, and certain in its results. + +The first law concerning the _Central School for Public Works_, since +called the _Polytechnic School_, was made on the 20th of Ventôse year +II. (10th of March 1794). From that moment, much zeal was manifested +in making the necessary arrangements for its formation. On the report +made to the National Convention respecting the measures taken on this +subject, on the 7th of Vendémiaire year III (28th of September 1794) +a decree was passed, directing a competition to be opened for the +admission of four hundred pupils into this school. The examination +was appointed to take place in twenty-two of the principal towns. The +candidates were to answer in arithmetic and the elements of algebra +and geometry. Those admitted received the allowance of military +officers for their travelling expenses to Paris. They were to have +annually twelve hundred francs, and to remain in the school three +years, after which they were to be called to the different Public +Services, when they were judged capable of performing them; and +priority was to depend on merit. These services were the duty of +military engineers, naval engineers, or ship-builders, artillerists, +both military and naval, engineers of bridges and highways, +geographical engineers, and engineers of mines, and to them were +added the service of the pupils of the school of aërostation, which +GUYTON MORVEAU had caused to be established at Meudon, for the +purpose of forming the aërostatic company destined for manoeuvring +air-balloons, applied to the art of war, as was seen at _Maubeuge_, +_Fleurus_, _Aix-la-Chapelle_, &c. + +However, the conception of this project was far more easy than its +execution. It was doing little to choose professors from among the +first men of science in Europe, if their lessons were not fixed in +the mind of the pupils. Being unable to communicate them to each +pupil in private, they stood in need of agents who should transmit +them to this numerous assemblage of youth, and be, as it were, the +nerves of the body. To form these was the first object. + +Among the young men who had presented themselves at the competition, +twenty of the most distinguished were selected. Philosophical +instruments and a chemical laboratory were provided for them, and +they were unremittingly exercised in every part of the plan which it +was resolved to execute. These pupils, the greater part of whom had +come from the schools for Public Service, felt the insufficiency of +the instruction which they had there received. Eager to learn, their +mind became inflamed by the presence of the celebrated men who were +incessantly with them. The days sufficed not for their zeal; and in +three months they were capable of discharging the functions for which +they were intended. + +Nor was this all. At a time when opinion and power might change from +one moment to another, much risk was incurred if a definitive form +was not at once given to the _Polytechnic School_. The authors of +this vast project had seen the revolution too near not to be sensible +of that truth. But they wished first, by a trial made on a grand +scale, to insure their method, class the pupils, and shew what might +be expected from them. They therefore developed to them, in rapid +lectures, the general plan of instruction. + +This plan had been drawn up agreeably to the views of men the best +informed, amongst whom MONGE must be particularly mentioned. He had +been professor at _Mezières_, and had there given the first lessons +of descriptive geometry, that science so useful to the engineer. The +enumeration of the various parts of instruction was reduced to a +table, printed by order of the Committee of Public Safety. It +comprehends mathematics, analysis applied to descriptive geometry and +to the mechanism of solids and fluids, stereotomy, drawing, civil +architecture, fortification, general physics, chymistry, mineralogy, +and their application to the arts. + +In three months, the work of three years was explained. A real +enthusiasm was excited in these youths on finding themselves occupied +by the sublimest ideas which had employed the mind of man. Amidst the +divisions and animosities of political party, it was an interesting +sight, to behold four hundred young men, full of confidence and +friendship, listening with profound attention to the lectures of the +celebrated _savans_ who had been spared by the guillotine. + +The results of so great an experiment surpassed the most sanguine +expectations. After this preliminary instruction, the pupils were +divided into brigades, and education took the course it was intended +should follow. + +What particularly distinguishes this establishment, is that the +pupils not only receive oral lessons, but they must give in written +solutions, present drawings, models, or plans for the different +parts, and themselves operate in the laboratories. + + +On the 1st of Germinal year III (22d of March 1795) the annual +courses were commenced. They were then distributed for three years, +but at this day they last two only. At the same time a decree was +passed, regulating the number of professors, adjuncts, ushers, the +holding of the meetings of the council of instruction and +administration, the functions of the director, administrator, +inspector of the studies, secretary of the council, librarian, +keepers of the collection of drawings, models, &c. + +Since that epoch, the _Polytechnic School_, often attacked, even in +the discussions of the _Legislative Body_, has maintained its ground +by the impression of the reputation of the men who act there as +professors, of the depth of the knowledge which makes the object of +their lessons, and of the youths of superior talent who issue from it +every year. The law which after many adjournments, has fixed its +existence is dated the 25th of Frimaire year VIII (16th of December +1799.) + +The most important changes introduced, are the determination of the +age to be received into this school, which is from sixteen to twenty, +the reduction of the pupils to the number of three hundred, the rank +which is given them of serjeant of artillery of the first class, +their pay fixed on the same footing, together with a fund of +assistance for those labouring under difficulties, the obligation to +wear a uniform, the establishment of a council of improvement, +composed of three members of the National Institute, of examiners, of +a general-officer or superior agent of each of the branches of the +Public Service, of the director, and four commissioners taken from +the council of instruction. + +This council assembles every year, inquires into the state of the +school, proposes its views of amelioration, respecting every +department, and makes a report to the government. One of its +principal functions is to harmonise the instruction with that of the +Schools of Engineers, Artillery, &c. into which the pupils enter +after the final examination they undergo previously to their +departure. + +After this, to judge of the advantages of the _Polytechnic School_, +it is sufficient to cast an eye on the printed reports, which present +an account of the persons it furnishes to the different services, of +those who have been taken from it for the expedition to Egypt, for +the corps of _aspirans de la marine_ or midshipmen, for entering into +the line vith the rank of officers, or into the department of +commissaries of war, (into which they are admitted after their +examination if no places are vacant in the Schools for Public +Service), of those who have been called on to profess the sciences in +the central schools (Lyceums) of the departments, some to fill the +first professors' chairs in Paris, such as at the _Collège de France_ +and the _École Polytechnique_, of those, in short, who have quitted +this school to introduce into the manufactories the knowledge which +they had acquired. The last-mentioned circumstance has always been a +consideration for carrying the number of pupils beyond the presumable +wants of the different Public Services. + +You see that this is no more than a summary of what might be said +and collected from the journals of the _Polytechnic School_, (which +already form four volumes in 4to. independently of the classic works +published by the professors), for giving a complete history of this +interesting establishment, which attracts the notice of foreigners of +all nations. BONAPARTE takes no small interest in the labours of the +_Polytechnic School_, and has often said that it would be difficult +to calculate the effects of the impulse which it has given towards +the mathematical sciences, and of the aggregate of the knowledge +imparted to the pupils. + +The _Polytechnic School_, which is under the authority of the +Minister of the Interior, occupies an extensive range of building, +formerly known by the name of _Le petit Palais Bourbon, contiguous to +the _Palais du Corps Legislatif_. The different apartments contain +every thing necessary for the elucidation of the arts and sciences +here taught; but the pupils reside not at the school: they lodge and +board with their friends, on the salary allowed them by the nation, +and repair thither only for the prosecution of their studies. + + + +LETTER LX. + +_Paris, January 30, 1802._ + +To judge from the records of the Old Bailey, one would conclude that, +in proportion to the number of its inhabitants, London must contain a +greater number of dishonest persons of both sexes than any metropolis +in Europe. But, though more notorious thieves and daring robbers may +perhaps, be found in London than in many other great cities, yet I +will venture to affirm that Paris contains more + +PICKPOCKETS AND SHARPERS. + +However superior too our rogues may be in boldness, I apprehend that, +in dexterity, they are far inferior to those to be met with among our +neighbours. To elude a more vigilant inspection, the latter are +compelled to exert more art and cunning. In this dissipated capital, +which is a grand theatre where they can display all their talent, and +find a greater number of dupes, adventurers and swindlers of every +description have long been famous; but it should seem that the +females here of that stamp deserve to be no less celebrated. + +Not many years ago, I heard of an English lady of quality being +detected in the very act of secreting a quantity of valuable lace, to +which she had taken a particular fancy at a great haberdasher's in +Pall-Mall. It was said that she endeavoured to exculpate herself for +this inadvertency on the ground of being in a pregnant state, which +had produced an irrisistible longing. However this may be, she might +here have got a lesson, as will appear from the following instance of +ingenuity very lately practised by one of her own sex. + +In the _ci-devant Palais Royal_, a haberdasher of note keeps a shop +where the highest-priced articles of female wear are exhibited, +immediately on coming from the hands of the manufacturer or inventor. + +The other day, a lady somewhat turned of thirty, of genteel +appearance and engaging address, entered this shop, and asked to see +some white lace veils. Several were shewn to her at the price of from +twenty-five to fifty louis each. These not being sufficiently rich to +please her taste, others more costly were produced, and she fixed on +one of eighty louis in value. Standing before a glass, she +immediately put on this veil _à la réligieuse_, that is, in the form +of the hood of a nun's dress. Then taking from her bosom her little +purse, she found it to contain no more than twenty louis in +bankpaper, which she paid to the haberdasher as a deposit for the +veil, at the same time desiring him to send one of his men with her +to her _homme d'affaires_ or agent, in order that he might bring back +the other sixty. + +As a Parisian tradesman is always extremely glad to get rid of his +goods, she had no difficulty in carrying her point; and, having +selected from among the shopmen a shamefaced youth of eighteen, took +him with her in the hackney-coach which she had kept in waiting. She +gave the coachman her orders, and away he drove to a famous +apothecary's, in the _Rue St. Honoré_. "This," said she to the +shopman, "is the residence of my _homme d'affaires_: follow me, and +you shall have your money." She accordingly alighted, and, after +saying a few words in the ear of the doctor, on whose credulity she +had already exercised her genius, desired him to take the young man +to his private room, and settle the business, while she remained to +chat with his wife. + +The unsuspecting youth, seeing the lady on such terms of intimacy in +the family, made no hesitation to follow the doctor to a +back-parlour, where, to his extreme surprise, he was closely +questioned as to his present state of health, and the rise and +progress of the disorder which he had caught through his own +imprudence. The more he denied the circumstance, the more the +doctor persisted in his endeavours to procure ocular demonstration. +The latter had previously locked the door, having been apprized by +the lady that her son was exceedingly bashful, and that stratagem, +and even a certain degree of violence, perhaps, must be employed +to obtain evidence of a complaint, which, as it injured her +_dear boy's_ constitution, disturbed her own happiness and peace +of mind. The doctor was proceeding to act on this information, +when the young shopman, finding his retreat cut off, vociferously +demanded the sixty louis which he was come to receive in payment +for the veil. "Sixty louis in payment for a veil!" re-echoed the +doctor. "Your mother begged me to examine you for a complaint which +you have inconsiderately contracted in the pursuit of pleasure." The +_dénouement_ now taking place, the two dupes hastened back to the +shop, when they found that the lady had decamped, having previously +discharged the coach, in order that she might not be traced by the +number. + +The art of purloining a watch, a snuff-box, or a purse, unperceived +by the owner, may, no doubt, be acquired by constant practice, till +the novice becomes expert in his profession: but the admirable +presence of mind displayed by Parisian sharpers must, in a great +measure, be inherited from nature. What can well surpass an example +of this kind mentioned by a celebrated French writer? + +A certain person who had been to receive a sum of money at a +banker's, was returning home with it in a hired carriage. The +coachman, not remembering the name of the street whither he had been +ordered to drive, got off his box, and opened the coach-door to ask +it. He found the person dead and cold. At his first exclamation, +several people collected. A sharper who was passing by, suddenly +forced his way through the crowd, and, in a lamentable and pathetic +voice, called out: "'Tis my father! What a miserable wretch am I!" +Then, exhibiting every mark of the most poignant grief, he got into +the coach, and, crying and sobbing, kissed the dead man's face. The +bystanders were affected, and dispersed, saying, one to another, +"What an affectionate son!" The sharper drove on in the coach, where +he found the bags of money, which were an unexpected booty, and, +stopping it at a door, told the coachman that he wished to apprize +his sister of the melancholy accident that had just happened. He +alighted, and shut the coach-door, leaving the corpse as naked as it +came into the world. The coachman, having waited a long time, +inquired in vain at the house for the young man and his sister; no +one had any knowledge of her, him, or the deceased. + +I remember when I was last in Paris, at the beginning of the +revolution, being shewn a silversmith's shop, whence a few articles +having been stolen, the master was induced to examine in what manner +the thieves gained admittance. Discovering an aperture where he +conjectured that a man's hand might be introduced, he prepared a +noose with a proper cord, and remained in waiting the following night +to see if they would repeat their visit. At a late hour, when all was +quiet, he perceived a man's hand thrust through the aperture; +instantly he drew tight the noose, and thought he had effectually +secured the culprit; but he was mistaken. The fellow's accomplices, +fearing that the apprehension of one of them would lead to the +discovery of all, on finding it impossible to extricate him by any +other means, cut off his wrist. When the patrole arrived at the spot, +on the call of the silversmith, he was not a little astonished to +find that his prisoner had escaped, though with the loss of a hand, +which remained fast in the noose. + +With respect to these more daring classes of rogues, every year +almost produces some new race of them. Since the revolution, the +criminal code having condemned to death none but those guilty of +murder, housebreakers, to avoid the penalty of the law, had recourse +to a practice, which put the persons whom they subjected to it to the +most severe pain. This was to hold their feet to the fire till they +declared where all their moveable property was to be found. Hence +these villains obtained the name of _chauffeurs_. Notwithstanding the +vigilance of the Police, they still occasionally exercise their +cruelties in some of the departments, as may be seen by the +proceedings of the criminal tribunals. I have also heard of another +species of assassins, who trained blood-hounds to seize a man by the +throat in certain solitary places, and then came afterwards, and +plundered him at their ease. When apprehended, they coolly said: "We +did not kill the man, but found him dead." + +As in former times, all sentences passed on criminals, tried in +Paris, whether condemned to die or not, are put into execution on the + +PLACE DE GRÈVE. + +The first sentence executed here was that passed on _Marguerite +Porette_, a female heretic, who was burnt alive in the year 1310. + +Among the punishments which it has been found necessary to +re-establish is that of marking with a hot iron. Criminals, condemned +to imprisonment in irons, are exposed for two hours on a scaffold in +the middle of this square. They are seated and tied to a post, having +above them a label with the words of their sentence. They are clad in +woollen pantaloons and a waistcoat with sleeves, one half of each of +which is white; the other, brown. After being exposed two hours, they +are stripped, and to their shoulder is applied a hot iron, which +there leaves the impression of the letter V, for _voleur_, thief. +Women, not being condemned to imprisonment in irons; are exempt from +the penalty of being marked. This punishment is said to produce +considerable effect on the culprits, as well as on the spectators. +Previously to its being revived, persons convicted of thieving were +insolent beyond all endurance. + +The _Place de Grève_ is a parallelogram, one of the long sides of +which is occupied by the _ci-devant Hôtel de Ville_, a tasteless +edifice, begun in 1533, but not finished till 1605. + +Before the revolution, the _Place de Grève_ was alternately the +theatre of punishments and rejoicings. On the same pavement, where +scaffolds were erected for the execution of criminals, rose superb +edifices for public festivals. + +Here, when any criminal of note was to suffer, the occupiers of the +adjoining houses made a rich harvest by letting their apartments. +Every window that commanded a view of the horrid scene, was then +hired at a most exorbitant price. Women of the first rank and +fashion, decked in all the luxury of dress, graced even the uppermost +stories. These weak-nerved females, who would have fainted at the +sight of a spider mangling a fly, stood crowded together, calmly +viewing the agonies of an expiring malefactor, who, after having been +racked on the wheel, was, perhaps, denied the _coup de grace_ which +would, in an instant, have rid him of his miserable existence. + +The death of a regicide was a sort of gala to these belles; while the +lead was melting over the furnace, the iron pinchers heating in the +fire, and the horses disposed for tearing asunder the four quarters +of the victim of the laws, some of them amused themselves with an +innocent game at cards, in sight of all these terrible preparations, +from which a man of ordinary feeling would avert his looks with +horror. + +How happens it that, in all countries on the continent, ladies flock +to these odious spectacles? Every where, I believe, the populace run +to behold them; but that a female of superior birth and breeding can +deliberately seek so inhuman a gratification is a mystery which I +cannot explain, unless, indeed, on the principle of shewing +themselves, as well as that of seeing the show. + + "_Spectatum veniunt, veniunt spectentur ut ipsæ_." + + + +LETTER LXI. + +_Paris, February 2, 1802._ + +Independently of the general organization of Public Instruction, +according to the new plan, of which I have before traced you the +leading features, there exist several schools appropriate to +different professions, solely devoted to the Public Service, and +which require particular knowledge in the arts and sciences. Hence +they bear the generic name of + +SCHOOLS FOR PUBLIC SERVICES. + +They are comprised under the following denominations. + + POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. + SCHOOL OF ARTILLERY. + MILITARY ENGINEERS. + BRIDGES AND HIGHWAYS. + MINES. + NAVAL ENGINEERS. + NAVIGATION. + +In order to be admitted into any of the above schools, the candidates +must prove themselves qualified by the preliminary instruction +required the examinations at the competition prescribed for each of +them. The pupils of these schools receive a salary from the nation. +At the head of them is the _Polytechnic School_, of which I have +already spoken. This is the grand nursery, whence the pupils, when +they have attained a sufficient degree of perfection, are +transplanted into the other _Schools for Public Services_. Next come +the + +SCHOOLS OF ARTILLERY. + +There are eight of these in the places where the regiments of +artillery are garrisoned. The pupils who are sent thither as +officers, after having been examined, apply their knowledge to the +arts, to the construction of works, and to the manoeuvres of war +dependent on artillery. Each school, in which the pupils must remain +two years longer, is under the superintendance of a general of +brigade of the corps. + +SCHOOL OF MILITARY ENGINEERS. + +This school, united to that of Miners, is established at Metz. Its +labours relate to the application of the theoretical knowledge which +the pupils have imbibed at the _Polytechnic School_. The objects of +these labours is the construction of all sorts of works of +fortification, mines and counter-mines, mock-representations of +sieges, attack, and defence, the drawing of plans and military +surveys, in a word, all the details of the duty of engineers in +fortified places and in the field. + +The number of pupils is limited to twenty. They have the rank and pay +of second lieutenant. The School of Engineers, as well as the Schools +of Artillery, is under the authority of the Minister at War. + +Much as I wish to compress my subject, I must observe that, +previously to leaving the school, the pupils undergo a strict +examination respecting the objects of instruction before-enumerated. +This examination is intrusted to a _jury_ (as the French term it) +composed of the commander in chief of the school, a general or +field-officer of the corps, appointed every year by the Minister at +War, and one of the permanent examiners of the Polytechnic School. +_This jury forms the list of merit, which regulates the order of +promotion._ Can we then wonder that the French have the first +military engineers in Europe? + +SCHOOL OF BRIDGES AND HIGHWAYS. + +It was founded in 1787, by TRUDAINE, and continued under the +direction of PERRONET, chief engineer of this corps, till his death, +which happened in 1794. He was then 86 years of age. By his will, he +bequeathed to this school, for the instruction of the pupils whom he +loved as his children, his library, his models, his manuscripts, and +his portfolios; articles which at this day form an invaluable +collection. + +This school, which is at present established in the _Hôtel de +Chatelet_ (formerly belonging to the duke of that name) _Rue de +Grenelle_, _St. Germain_, unites the _dépôt_ or repository of plans +and models to the labours relating to roads, canals, and harbours for +trade. The number of pupils admitted is fifty. They are taken from +the _Polytechnic School_, and retain the salary which they there +received. + +The instruction given to them chiefly consists in the application of +the principles of physics and mathematics to the art of planning and +constructing works relative to roads, canals, and sea-ports, and the +buildings belonging thereto; the means of execution, and the mode of +forming plans and estimates of the works to be executed, and the +order to be observed in keeping the accounts. + +The _School of Bridges and Highways_ is under the authority of the +Minister of the Interior, + +PRACTICAL SCHOOLS OF MINES. + +One of these schools is established at Geislautern, in the +department of La Sarre; and the other, at Pesay, in the department +of Mont-Blanc. + +The Director and Professors form a committee for the working of the +mines of Pesay, as well as for the instruction of the pupils. In +consequence of the report of this committee the _Council of Mines_ +established in Paris, proposes to the government the measures +necessary to be adopted. Twenty pupils, who have passed their +examination at the _Polytechnic School_, are attached to the +practical schools, for the purpose of applying the theoretical part +of their instruction. Extra-scholars, with testimonials of good +behaviour and capacity, are admitted to be educated at their own +expense. These schools are also under the authority of the Minister +of the Interior. + +SCHOOL OF NAVAL ENGINEERS. + +The _School of Naval Architects_, which existed in Paris, has been +removed to Brest, under the name of _École des Ingénieurs des +Vaisseaux_. No pupils are admitted but such as have been students, at +least two years, in the _Polytechnic School_. The examination of the +candidates takes place every year, and the preference is given to +those who excel in descriptive geometry, mechanics, and the other +branches of knowledge appropriated to the first year's study at that +school. When the pupils have proved, in the repeated examinations +which they must undergo, that they are sufficiently qualified, they +are sent to Brest (as vacancies occur), in order to apply the theory +they have acquired to the different works carried on in that port, +where they find both the example and the precept, and are taught +every thing relative to the construction of ships of war and +merchant-vessels. + +This school is under the authority of the Minister of the naval +department. The pupils admitted into it, receive a salary of 1800 +francs (_circa_ £. 75 sterling) a year. + +SCHOOLS OF NAVIGATION. + +The Schools of Mathematics and Hydrography, established for the navy +of the State, and the Schools of Hydrography destined for the +merchant-service, bear the name of _Écoles de Navigation_. + +Every year, there is a competition for the admission of candidates +for naval employment. The Hydrographical Examiner makes a general +tour to the different ports, where he interrogates the pupils in +arithmetic, algebra, geometry, statics, and navigation. According to +these examinations, they are admitted to the rank of _aspirons de +marine_ or midshipmen, captains of merchant-ships for long voyages, +masters of coasting-vessels, pilots, &c, + +By a late decree of the Consuls, no one can be admitted to the +examination prescribed for being received as master in the +coasting-trade, unless he is twenty-four years of age, and has +served five years on board the ships of war belonging to the +Republic. + + * * * * * + +In my letter of the 15th of January, I have shewn you that Public +Instruction is to be divided into four classes: 1. In Primary +Schools, established by the _Communes_. 2. In Secondary Schools, +established by the _Communes_, and kept by private masters. 3. In +Lyceums. 4. In _Special Schools_. In the two last-mentioned +establishments, the pupils are to be maintained at the expense of the +nation. + +Before I particularize the _Special Schools_, I must mention a +national institution, distinguished by the appellation of + +PRYTANÉE FRANÇAIS. + +It is divided into four colleges, established at Paris, St. Cyr, St. +Germain-en-Laye, and Compiegne. It was destined for the gratuitous +education of the children of the military killed in the field of +honour, and of public functionaries who might happen to die in the +discharge of their office. + +By a decree of the Consuls, dated the 1st of Germinal year VIII (22nd +of March 1800) the number of pupils, in each of the Colleges of +Paris, St. Cyr, and St. Germain-en-Laye, is limited to two hundred, +and to three hundred, in that of Compiegne. An augmentation, however, +is to be made in favour of the new departments. The pupils are named +by the First Consul. On entering the College, they bring a stated +proportion of necessaries, after which they are wholly maintained at +the expense of the nation till they have finished their studies. The +government provides for the advancement of those who give the +greatest proof of good conduct and talent. The pupils cannot remain +in either of these four colleges beyond the age of eighteen. + +As I have before observed, the Central Schools are, in future, to +bear the name of Lyceums, and the highest degree of public +instruction is to be acquired in the + +SPECIAL SCHOOLS. + +In these upper schools are to be particularly taught, in the most +profound manner, the useful sciences, together with jurisprudence, +medicine, natural history, &c. The Special Schools now in existence +are to be continued, subject to such modifications as the government +may think fit to introduce for the benefit of the Public Service. +They are still under the immediate superintendance of the Minister of +the Interior. + +The _Collège de France_ I have before described: the Museum of +Natural History, the Special School of docimastic Mineralogy and +Chemistry, and that for Oriental languages, I shall speak of +elsewhere; but I shall now proceed to give you a rapid sketch of the +others which I have not yet noticed, beginning with the + +SPECIAL SCHOOL OF PAINTING AND SCULPTURE. + +This institution was founded in 1648, at the instigation of LE BRUN. +It was formerly held in the _Place du Louvre_, but is now removed to +the _ci-devant Collège des Quatre-Nations_, which has taken the name +of _Palais des Beaux Arts_. This is the only school in Paris that has +never indulged in any vacation. Each professor is on duty for two +months. During the first month, he gives his lessons in the school of +living models; during the other, in the school of the antique, +called, _la bosse_. It may not be uninteresting to give you an idea +of the + +COMPETITIONS. + +Every year there is a competition in Painting, Sculpture, and +Architecture, which is to be called _National Prize_. Its object is +to confer on those who have gained the first prize, at present +proposed by the Institute, the advantage of an allowance of 1200 +francs for five years, which is insured to them at the French School +of Fine Arts at Rome. During their stay there, they are lodged, +boarded, and taken care of, in case of illness, at the expense of the +Republic. + +A competition takes place every six months for the rank of places in +the schools; and another, every three months for the distribution of +medals. + +There is also a prize, of 100 francs, founded by M. DE CAYLUS, for a +head expressive of character, painted or drawn from nature; and +another prize of 300 francs, founded by LATOUR, for a half-length, +painted after a model, and of the natural size. + +Independently of the competition of the school, there is every year a +general competition followed by a distribution of the works of +encouragement, granted to the artists who have distinguished +themselves most in the annual exhibition of the _Salon du Louvre_. A +jury, named by the competitors themselves, examines the different +pictures, classes them according to the degree of merit which it +finds they possess, and the Minister of the Interior allots to each +of the artists _crowned_ a sum in payment of a new work which they +are bound to furnish to the government. + +NATIONAL SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE. + +In this school, which is held in the _Louvre_, the Professor of +Architecture delivers lectures on the history of that art, and the +theory of its different branches, on the orders, and edifices erected +by the ancients, and on the works of Vitruvius, Palladio, Scamozzi, +and Vignole. He takes no small pains to make known the bold style of +Grecian architecture, which the Athenians chiefly employed during the +ages when they prided themselves on being a free people. + +The Professor of Mathematics explains the principles of arithmetic +and elementary geometry, which he applies to the different branches +of civil and military architecture, such as levelling, the art of +constructing plans, and perspective. + +The Professor of Stereotomy, in his lectures, chiefly comprises +masonry and carpentry; he points out the best methods of employing +those arts in civil and military buildings. His demonstrations relate +to the theoretical and practical part of both branches. All the +pupils, and students of architecture are indiscriminately admitted to +the competition for the great prize of architecture, provided they +are not foreigners. + +CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC. + +This establishment, situated in the _Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière_, +was founded on the 16th of Thermidor year III, (4th of August 1795) +for the preservation and reproduction of music in all its branches. + +It is composed of a director, three inspectors of teaching, a +secretary, a librarian, and thirty-five professors. + +The director presides over the whole establishment; the inspectors +superintend the teaching, examine the pupils, and teach the branches +of study attributed to them by the regulation. + +In the Conservatory, the instruction is divided as follows: +composition, harmony, solfaing, singing, violin, violincello, +harpsicord, organ, flute, hautboy, clarinette, French-horn, bassoon, +trumpet, trombonne, serpent, preparation for singing, and declamation +applicable to the lyric stage. + +The completion of the study is effected by a series of lectures, +treating specially of the relations between the sciences and the art +of music. + +Three hundred pupils of both sexes, taken in equal number from each +department, are instructed gratuitously in the Conservatory. The +principal points towards which their studies are directed, are, to +keep up music in society, to form artists for the execution of public +_fêtes_, for the armies, and for the theatres. + +These pupils are admitted after an examination, which takes place +four times a year. Prizes are distributed annually, in a public +meeting of the Conservatory, to the pupils who distinguish themselves +in each branch of study. + + * * * * * + +_February 2, in continuation._ + +To the preceding brief account of the Conservatory, I shall subjoin a +few observations on the + +PRESENT STATE OF MUSIC IN FRANCE. + +Till the year 1789, this was the country where the greatest expense +was incurred in cultivating music; yet the means which were employed, +though very numerous, produced but little effect, and contributed not +to the improvement of that art. Every thing even announces that its +progress would have been still more retarded, but for the +introduction of the Italian Opera, in 1645, by Cardinal Mazarin. + +The brilliant success of _Orfeo e Euridice_, in 1647, determined the +national taste in favour of this sort of _spectacle_, and gave birth +to the wish of transplanting it to the French stage. It was in 1659 +that the first opera, with music adapted to a French poem, was +performed at Issy. + +Since the epoch of the establishment of the French opera, every +department belonging to it, with the sole exception of the singing, +has been so much improved, that it is become the most brilliant +_spectacle_ in Europe. But, as the lyric theatres in France were +always obliged to seek recruits among the pupils formed in the +schools maintained by the clergy for the service of public worship, +the influence of the clerical mode of instruction was felt; and this +was, in fact, the source of the bad taste which for a long time +characterized French singing. + +Had the grand opera in France been continued an Italian one, as it +was first established, (like those subsequently introduced in the +principal cities of Europe) it would have been supported by +performers formed by the Conservatories of Italy; and the good taste +of those schools would have balanced or proscribed the bad taste of +the French cathedrals; but the genius of the seventeenth century +chose that the French language, purified and fixed by the writers who +rendered it illustrious, should also become the language of the lyric +theatre. Musical instruction, remaining entirely subservient to the +customs of religion, was unable to keep pace with the rapid progress +of the arts and sciences during that brilliant period. + +Among the defects of the old system of teaching music, must be placed +that of confining it to men; nevertheless, the utility of women in +concerts and plays was as incontestable then as it is at the present +day. Public instruction was therefore due to them in that point of +view; but, had no such consideration existed, they should have been +admitted to participate in this instruction, in order to propagate +the art in society. The success of this method would have been +infallible: as soon as women should have cultivated the musical art +with success, its naturalization would have been effected in France, +as it has been in Germany and Italy. + +The expense of the musical instruction pursued in the schools +belonging to the cathedrals was immense, compared with its results in +every branch of the art. As to composers, they produced but a very + +small number, and few of these distinguished themselves; no +instrumental performer of eminence ever issued from them; and, with +few exceptions, the singers they formed were very indifferent. + +The necessity of introducing a better method of singing induced the +government, in 1783, to establish a _Special School of Singing and +Declamation._ This institution continued in full exercise for ten +years; but, though the celebrated PICCINI was appointed to preside +over the vocal department, the habits of the old school obstructed +its progress, and prevented it from producing the good which was +expected from it. + +At the epoch of the dissolution of the monarchical institutions, +there remained in France only the School of Music of the Parisian +national guard, and that of Singing and Declamation just mentioned. +The republican government ordered them to be united, and thus was +formed the _Conservatory of Music_. + +Nor let it be imagined that policy has had no share in establishing +this institution. It has furnished the numerous bands of musicians +rendered necessary by the levy of fourteen armies which France had, +at one and the same time, in the field. It is well known that music +has done almost wonders in reviving the courage of the French +soldiers, who, when Victory seemed adverse to them, inclined her in +their favour, by rallying to the tune of the _Marseillois_. In the +heat of action, joining their voice to the instruments, and raising +themselves to a pitch of enthusiasm, they received or dealt out +death, while they kept singing this hymn. The French then are no less +indebted to ROUGET DE LILLE than the Spartans were to TYRTÆUS. At the +beginning of the revolution, they had no songs of the warlike kind, +except a few paltry ballads sung about the streets. ROUGET, who was +then an officer of engineers at Strasburg, was requested to compose a +martial hymn. Full of poetic fire, he shut himself up in his chamber, +and, in the course of one night, wrote the words of the +_Marseillois_, adapting to them music, also of his own composition. +Notwithstanding this patriotic production, and the courage which the +author is said to have displayed during the war, he was twice +imprisoned, at one time on suspicion of royalism; at another, of +terrorism. + +Independently of the great number of musicians with which the +Conservatory has supplied the armies, it has furnished between two +and three hundred to the theatres, as well in Paris as in the +departments.[1] The band of the Consular guard was formed from the +pupils of the Conservatory, and sixty of them at present compose the +orchestra, known in Paris by the name of _Concert Français_, and the +execution of which has been much applauded by many celebrated +composers. + +Its members meet to discuss the theories which may improve and extend +the different branches of the musical art. They have already laid the +principal foundations of a body of elementary works for teaching them +in perfection. _Les Principes élementaires de Musique_, and a _Traité +d'Harmonie_, which is said to have gained the universal approbation +of the composers of the three schools, assembled to discuss its +merits, are already published. A method of singing, established on +the best principles of the Italian school, applied to French +declamation, is now in the press; and these publications are to be +successively followed by other didactic works relative to the history +of the art. + +A principal cause of the present scarcity of fine voices in France, +is the war which she has had to maintain for ten years, by armies +continually recruited by young men put in requisition at the period +when the voice is forming, and needs to be cultivated in order to +acquire the qualities which constitute a good singer. + +Formerly, French commerce derived but very little advantage from +articles relating to music; but the means employed by the +Conservatory may probably turn the scale in favour of this country, +as well as render it, in that respect, independent of foreign +nations. + +Before the revolution, England furnished France with _piano-fortes_, +the common price of which was from three to five hundred francs. +Germany mostly supplied her with wind and string instruments. German +French-horns, though coarsely-made instruments, cost seventy-two +francs, and the good violins of the Tyrol were paid for as high as +one hundred and twenty. The consumption of these instruments was +considerable. Nor will this appear surprising, as previously to the +foundation of the Conservatory, the instrumental musicians, employed +in the French regiments and places of public amusement, were mostly +Germans. + +The French _piano-fortes_ are now in request in most parts of Europe, +and their price has, in consequence, increased from one thousand to +two thousand four hundred francs. The price of French-horns, made in +Paris, which, from being better finished, are preferable to those of +Germany, has, in like manner, risen from three to five hundred +francs. Parisian violins have increased in proportion. + +With respect to printed music, the French import none; but, on the +contrary, export a great deal; and the advantages resulting from +these two branches of commerce, together with the stamp-duty attached +to the latter, are said to be sufficient to defray the expenses of +the musical establishments now existing, or those proposed to be +created. + +Before I close this letter, I must not omit to mention a very useful +institution, for the promotion of the mechanical arts, established +in the _Rue de l'École de Médecine_, and called the + +GRATUITOUS SCHOOL FOR DRAWING. + +It was founded in the year 1766, for the instruction of fifteen +hundred children intended for mechanical professions, and was the +first beneficent establishment opened in favour of the common people. +Literature, sciences, and liberal arts had every where public +schools; mechanical arts alone were neglected. The lower orders, by +whom they were exercised, had no other means of learning them, and of +developing the faculties of their mind, than the blind routine of +apprenticeship. + +The success of this school had progressively caused similar ones to +be instituted in a great number of towns of France, but most of them +are buried under the ruins of the revolution; that of Paris has +escaped the general overthrow; and, though it has lost a considerable +portion of its revenue, it still admits about six hundred pupils. +They are taught every thing relative to the mechanical arts, such as +drawing in all its various branches, military, civil, and naval +architecture, hydraulics, arithmetic, land-surveying, mensuration, +perspective, stone-cutting, and in short such parts of mathematics +and practical geometry as relate to those different objects. + +The Gratuitous School for Drawing must not be assimilated to +establishments intended for improving the taste of those who follow +the career of the liberal arts. It presents immediately to the +children of the lower orders of the people the instruction that suits +them best. Here, every thing is useful. Not only are the pupils +instructed _gratis_, but the school furnishes to the indigent, +recommended by one of the founders, the paper, pencils, and +instruments necessary for their studies in the classes, and also +models for exercising their talents at home. + + * * * * * + +I shall speak elsewhere of the _Special School of Medicine_ of Paris; +there are two others, one at Montpellier, and one at Strasburg. At +Alfort, near Paris, is established, on a grand scale, a + +VETERINARY SCHOOL. + +It would lead me too far to particularize every department of this +extensive establishment; but one of these is too useful to be passed +over in silence. Here are spacious hospitals where animals are +classed, not only according to their species, but also according to +the species of disorder by which they are affected. Every person may +bring hither sick animals, on paying for their food and medicaments +only, the operations and dressings being performed and applied +_gratis_. + +There are also Veterinary Schools at Lyons, Turin, and Rodez. + +In addition to all these schools are to be established, in different +parts of the Republic, the following new _Special Schools_. + +Ten of Jurisprudence. + +Three of Medicine. + +Four of Natural History, Physics, and Chymistry. + +One of Transcendent Mathematics. + +Two of Technology. + +One of Public Economy, enlightened by Geography and History. + +One of the Arts dependent on design, and, lastly, + +A new Military School. + +From the foregoing enumeration, it is evident that the government can +never be at a loss for persons duly qualified to perform the duties +of every branch of the Public Service. True it is that the nation is +at a considerable expense in giving to them the instruction which +fits them for the employment; but, in return, what advantages does +not the nation derive from the exertion of their talent? + +[Footnote 1: In France are reckoned seventy-fire lyric theatres, +exclusively of those in the newly-united departments.] + + + +LETTER LXII. + +_Paris, February 5, 1802_. + +In one of your recent letters, you interrogated me respecting the +changes which the revolution had produced in the ceremonies +immediately connected with the increase and decrease of population. +While the subject is fresh in my mind, I shall present the contrast +which I have observed, in the years 1789-90 and 1801-2, in the +ceremony of + +FUNERALS. + +Under the old _régime_, there was no medium in them; they were either +very indecorous or very expensive. I have been positively assured +that eighteen francs were paid for what was called a parish-funeral, +and not unfrequently a quarrel arose between the agent of the rector +and the relations of the deceased. However, as it was necessary to +bury every one, the _Commissaire de police_ declared the fact, if the +relations were unable to pay. Those for whom eighteen francs were +paid, had a coffin in which they were buried; the others were laid in +a common coffin or shell, from which they were taken to be put into +the ground. In a parish-funeral, whether paid or not, several dead +bodies were assembled, that is, they were carried one after the +other, but at the same time to the same ground. They were conducted +by a single priest, reciting by the way the accustomed prayers. + +Other funerals were varied without end, according to the fortune or +pleasure of the relations. For persons of the richest class, a +flaming chapel was constructed at the entrance of the house. This +chapel was hung with black cloth, and in it was placed the corpse, +surrounded by lighted torches. The apartments were also hung with +black for the reception of the persons who were to attend the funeral +procession. The priests came to conduct the corpse from the house of +the deceased. They were more or less numerous, had or had not wax +tapers, according to the will of those who defrayed the expenses. If +the presentation of the corpse at the parish-church took place in the +morning, a mass was sung; if in the evening, obsequies only were +chaunted, and the former service was deferred till the next morning. +The relations and friends, in mourning, followed the corpse. These +persons walked in the procession, according to their degree of +relationship to the deceased, and besides their complete +mourning-suit, wore a black cloak, more or less long, according to +the quality of the persons (or the price paid for it), and a flapped +hat, from which was suspended a very long crape band. Their hair, +unpowdered, fell loose on their back. In lieu of a cloak, lawyers, +whether presidents, counsellors, attornies, or tipstaffs, wore their +black gown. On the cuff of their coat, men wore weepers, consisting +of a band of cambric. Every one wore black gloves, and likewise a +long pendent white cravat. People of the highest rank wore _cottés +crépés_, that is, a sort of crape petticoat, which fell from the +waist to the feet. This was meant to represent the ancient coat of +arms. + +Servants in mourning, or pages for princes, supported the train of +the cloak or gown of persons above the common rank. Other servants, +also in mourning, surrounded the relations and friends of the +deceased, holding torches with his armorial bearings, if he was a +_noble_. Persons extremely rich or very elevated in rank, hired a +certain number of poor (from fifty to three hundred), over whom were +thrown several ells of coarse iron gray cloth, to which no particular +form was given. They walked before the corpse, holding large lighted +torches. The procession was closed by the carriages of persons +belonging to it; and their owners did not get into them till their +return from the funeral. Sometimes on coming out of the +parish-church, where the presentation of the corpse was +indispensable, the rector performing the office of magistrate in +regard to the delivery of the certificate of presentation, the +corpse was carried into a particular church to be buried. This was +become uncommon before the revolution, as to do this it was +necessary to possess a vault, or pay extremely dear, it being +prohibited by law, except in such cases, to bury the dead in +churches. + +When the deceased belonged to a society or corporation, they sent a +deputation to attend him to the grave, or followed in a body, if he +was their chief. At the funeral of a prince of the blood, all his +household, civil and military, marched in the procession. The +_corbillard_, or sort of hearse, in which his highness was carried to +_St. Denis_, was almost as large as the moveable theatre which Mr. +Flockton transports from fair to fair in England. Calculated in +appearance for carrying the body of a giant, it was decorated with +escutcheons, and drawn by eight horses, also caparisoned to +correspond with the hearse. These, however, were but the trappings of +woe. + +While this funereal car moved slowly forward amidst a concourse of +mourners, its three-fold hangings concealed from the eye of the +observer the journeymen coach and harness makers, drinking, and +playing at dice on the lid of his highness's coffin, by way of +dispelling the _ennui_ of the journey. These careless fellows were +placed there to be at hand to repair any accident that might happen +on the road; so, while, on the outside of the hearse, all wore the +appearance of sadness; within, all was mirth; no bad image of the +reverse of grandeur and the emptiness of human ostentation. + +Such were the ceremonies observed in funerals before the revolution. +Passing over the interval, from its commencement in 1789 to the end +of the year 1801, I shall describe those practised at the present +day. It now depends on the relations to have the corpse presented at +the parish-church; but there are many persons who dispense with this +ceremony. The priests receive the corpse at the door of the church. +It is carried thither in a _corbillard_. Each municipality has its +own, and there are twelve municipalities in Paris. Some of them have +adopted the Egyptian style; some, the Greek; and others, the Roman, +for the fashion of their _corbillard_, according to the taste of the +municipality who ordered its construction. It is drawn by two horses +abreast, caparisoned somewhat like those of our hearses. The coachman +and the four bearers are clothed in iron gray or black. An officer of +the police, also clothed in black, and holding a cane with an ivory +head, walks before the _corbillard_ or hearse. Each corpse has its +particular coffin furnished by the municipality. Arrangements have +been so made that the rich are made to pay for the poor. The coffin +is covered with a black cloth, without a cross, for fear of scaring +philosophers and protestants. The relations follow on foot, or in +carriages, even in town. Few of them are in mourning, and still fewer +wear a cloak. + +At the _Sainte Chapelle_, near the _Palais de Justice_, is a private +establishment where, mourning is let out for hire. Here are to be had +_corbillards_ on a more elegant plan. These are carriages hung on +springs, and bearing much resemblance to our most fashionable +sociables with a standing awning; so much so, that the first of them +I saw I mistook for a _mourning_ sociable. Some are ornamented with +black feathers. Caparisons, hangings, every thing is in black, as +well as the coachman. This speculator also lets out mourning coaches, +black without and within, like those in use in London. At a few +funerals, these are hired for the mourners, and at a recent one, +fifteen of these carriages were counted in the procession. However, +this luxury of burials is not entirely come again into fashion. In +the inside of the church, every thing passes as formerly. + +I shall now proceed from the _grave_ to the _gay_, and conclude this +letter with a concise observation on + +MARRIAGES. + +The _civil_ act of marriage is entered into at the office of the +municipality. But this civil act must not be coufounded with the +contract, drawn up by the notary, and containing the stipulations, +clauses, and conditions. The former signifies merely that such a man +and such a woman take each other for man and wife. There are few, if +any, persons married, who, from the municipality, do not repair to +the parish-church, or go thither the next morning; the civil act +being considered by individuals only as the ceremony of the +betrothing, and till the priest has given the nuptial benediction, +the relations take care that the intended bride and bridegroom shall +have no opportunity of anticipating the duties of marriage. + +Political opinions, therefore, prevent but few persons from going to +church. Mass is said in a low voice, during which the priest, or the +rector, receives the promise of the wedded pair. With little +exception, the ceremony is the same for all. Those who pay well are +married at the high altar; the rector addresses to them a speech in +which he exhorts them to live happily together; the beadles perform +their duty; and the organist strikes up a voluntary. + +In regard to marriages, the present and former times presenting no +other contrast, I have nothing more to add on the subject. + + + +LETTER LXIII. + +_Paris, February 6, 1803._ + +The mode of life of the persons with whom I chiefly associate here, +precludes me from reading as much as I could wish, either for +instruction or amusement. This, you will say, I ought not to regret; +for a traveller visits foreign countries to study mankind, not books. +Unquestionably, the men who, like splendid folios in a library, make +at present the most conspicuous figure in this metropolis, are worth +studying; and, could we lay them open to our inspection, as we do +books of a common description, it would be extremely entertaining to +turn them over every morning, till we had them, in a manner, by +heart. But I rather apprehend that they partake, more or less, of the +qualities of a book just come out of the hands of the binder, which +it is difficult to open. Let us therefore content ourselves with +viewing them as we would volumes of a superbly-bound edition, not to +be examined by the general observer, and direct our eyes to such +objects as are fully exposed to investigation. + +In Paris, there are several public libraries, the greater part of +them open every day; but that which eclipses all the others, is the + +BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE. + +Charles V, justly surnamed the _Wise_, from the encouragement he gave +to learning, may be considered as the first founder of this library. +According to the President Henault, that king had collected nine +hundred volumes; whereas king John, his father, possessed not twenty. +This collection was placed in a tower of the _Louvre_, called _La +Tour de la Librairie_, which was lighted up every night, in order +that the learned might pursue their studies there at all hours. + +After the death of Charles VI, in 1423, the inventory amounted to no +more than one hundred and twenty volumes, though several works had +been added, because on the other hand, a great number had been lost. + +When Paris fell into the power of the English, in 1429, the Duke of +Bedford, then regent of France, purchased these books, for which he +paid 1200 livres, and the library was entirely dispersed. Charles +VII, being continually engaged in war, could not concern himself in +its re-estahlishment. Lewis XI collected the remains scattered in +different royal residences, and availed himself of the resources +afforded by the invention of printing, which was discovered at +Strasburg or Mentz in 1440. + +Printers, however, were not established in Paris till 1470, and in +that same year, they dedicated to Lewis XI one of the first books +which they printed. Books were, at this time, very scarce and dear, +and continued so for several years, both before and after the +discovery of that invention. Twenty thousand persons then subsisted +in France by the sale of the books which they transcribed. This was +the reason why printing was not at first more encouraged. + +Charles VIII added to this literary establishment such works as he +was able to obtain in his conquest of Naples. Lewis XII increased it +by the library of Potrarch. Francis I enriched it with Greek +manuscripts; but what most contributed to augment the collection was +the ordinance of Henry II, issued in 1556, which enjoined booksellers +to furnish the royal libraries with a copy on vellum of all the works +printed by privilege; and, under the subsequent reigns, it gradually +acquired that richness and abundance which, before the revolution, +had caused it to be considered as one of the first libraries in +Europe. + +In 1789, the _Bibliothèque du Roi_, as it was till then called, was +reckoned to contain one hundred and eighty thousand printed volumes, +eighty thousand manuscripts, a prodigious numbcr of medals, antiques, +and engraved stones, six thousand port-folios of prints, and two +thousand engraved plates. But, under its present denomination of +_Bibliothèque Nationale_, it has been considerably augmented. +Agreeably to your desire, I shall point out whatever is most +remarkable in these augmentations. + +The buildings, which, since the year 1721, contain this vast +collection, formally made part of the _Hôtel Mazarin_. The entrance +is by the _Rue de la Loi_. It is at present divided into four +departments, and is managed by a conservatory, composed of eight +members, namely: + +1. Two conservators for the printed books, M. M. CAPPERONNIER and +VAN-PRAET. + +2. Three for the manuscripts, M. M. LANGLÈS, LAPORTE DUTHEIL, and +DACIER. + +3. Two for the antiques, medals, and engraved stones, M. M. MILLIN +and GOSSELIN. + +4. One for the prints and engraved plates, M. JOLY. + +The first department, containing the printed books, occupies, on the +first floor of the three sides of the court, an extent of about nine +hundred feet by twenty-four in breadth. The rooms, which receive +light on one side only, are equal in height. In the second room to +the right is the _Parnasse Français_, a little mountain, in bronze, +covered with figures a foot high, and with medals, representing +French poets. Lewis XIV here occupies a distinguished place under the +figure of Apollo. It was a present made by TITON DU TILLET. + +In another of these rooms, built on purpose, are a pair of globes of +an extraordinary size, constructed, in 1683, by Father CORONELLI, a +Jesuit, for Cardinal D'ESTRÉES, who presented them to Lewis XIV. The +feet of these globes rest in a lower apartment; while their +hemispheres project by two apertures made in the floor of fhe first +story, and are thus placed within reach of the observer. Their +diameter is eleven feet, eleven inches. The celebrated BUTTERFIELD +made for them two brass circles, (the one for the meridian, the other +for the horizon), each eighteen feet in diameter. + +Since the year 1789, the department of printed books has received an +augmentation of one hundred and forty thousand volumes, either +arising from private acquisitions, or collected in France, Italy, +Holland, Germany, or Belgium. Among these is a valuable series of +works, some more scarce than others, executed in the XVth century, +which has rendered this department one of the most complete in +Europe. I shall abstain from entering into a detail of the articles +assembled in it, several of which deserve particular notice. A great +many ancient specimens of the typographical art are on vellum, and +give to this collection a value which it would be no easy matter to +appreciate. All the classes of it present a great number, the +enumeration of which would far exceed my limits. + +The department of manuscripts, which is placed in a gallery one +hundred and forty feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth, has been +increased in proportion to that of the printed books. The library of +Versailles, that of several emigrants, the chapters of various +cathedrals, the Sorbonne, the _Collège de Navarre_ in Paris, and the +different suppressed religious corporations, have enriched it with +upwards of twenty thousand volumes; eight thousand of these belonged +to the library of _St. Germain-des-Prês_, which was burnt in 1793-4, +and was immensely rich in manuscripts and old printed hooks. + +About fifteen hundred volumes have been taken from Italy, Holland, +and Germany. Among those arrived from Italy, we must distinguish the +original manuscript of RUFFIN, a priest of Aquilea, who lived in the +IVth century, containing, on papyrus or Egyptian paper, the Latin +tranlation of the Jewish antiquities of FLAVIUS JOSEPHUS; the grammar +of PROBUS or PALÆMON, a manuscript of the Vth century, on vellum, in +uncial characters; a very beautiful volume in Syriac, containing the +Four Evangelists, a manuscript on vellum of the VIth century; the two +celebrated manuscripts of Virgil of the VIIth century, the one from +the Vatican, the other from Florence, both on vellum. A roll, in good +preservation, composed of several skins, sewed together, containing +the Pentateuch in Hebrew, a manuscript of the IXth century. A +Terence, with figures of the time and a representation of the masks +introduced on the stage by the ancients, together with the various +poetical works of PRUDENTIUS; manuscripts on vellum of the IXth +century. The Terence is that of the Vatican, in praise of which +Madame DACIER speaks in her translation. + +The manuscripts of the ancient Dukes of Burgundy, which had so long +constituted the ornament of the library of Brussels, now increase the +fame of those which the _Bibliothèque Nationale_ already possessed of +this description. Their number is about five hundred volumes; the +greater part of them are remarkable for the beauty and richness of +the miniatures by which they are embellished, and one scarcely +inferior in magnificence to the primer of Anne de Bretagne, wife of +Lewis XII, to that of Cardinal Richelieu, to the primer and battles +of Lewis XIV, and to a heap of other manuscripts which rendered this +_ci-devant Bibliothèque du Roi_ so celebrated in foreign countries. + +Five large apartments on the second floor are occupied by titles and +genealogies, which are still preserved here, in about five thousand +portfolios or boxes, for the purpose of verifying the claims to +property, and assisting the historian in his researches. + +The department of medals, antiques and engraved stones has, since +1789, also experienced an abundant augmentation. The medals are in a +cabinet at the end of the Library; the antiques are in another, above +it, on the second floor. + +In 1790, the engraved stones which had been previously locked up in +the drawers of the council-chamber at Versailles, were conveyed +hither, to the number of eight hundred. It would be too tedious to +dwell on the beauty, merit, and scarceness of these stones, as well +as on their finished workmanship and degree of antiquity. Among them, +the beautiful ring, called the _seal of Michael Angelo_, claims +admiration. + +In 1791, some antiquities which constituted part of the treasure of +_St. Denis_, were brought hither from that abbey. Among these +valuable articles, we must particularly distinguish the chalice of +the Abbot SUGER; a vase of sardonyx, with two handles formed of +raised snakes, on which are represented, with admirable art, +ceremonies relating to the worship of Bacchus; a large gold cup, +ornamented with enamel of various colours; a very large urn of +porphyry, which formerly served as a sepulchral monument; several +baptismal fonts; the arm-chair of King Dagobert, a piece of very +extraordinary workmanship for the time in which it was executed. +Among the valuable articles removed hither from _La Sainte Chapelle_ +in Paris, in the same year, are to be particularly remarked a +sardonyx, representing the apotheosis of Augustus, and commonly +called _l'agathe de la Sainte Chapelle_. This stone is the largest +and rarest known of that species. It was brought to France in the +year 1383 by king Charles V. + +At the end of 1792 the cabinet of medals of _St. Geneviève_, forming +in the whole seventeen thousand articles, and its fine collection of +antique monuments, increased the new riches accumulated in the +_Bibliothèque Nationale_. In 1794, a beautiful series of antiquities, +consisting of a great number of imperial medals, of nations, cities, +and kings, of all sizes, in gold, silver, and bronze, together with +little painted figures, busts, instruments of sacrifices, &c. arrived +here from Holland. + +In 1796, the department of medals was also enriched by several +articles from the _Garde-Meuble_ or Jewel-Office. Among them were +some suits of armour belonging to several of the kings of France, +particularly that of Francis I, that of Henry IV, and that of Lewis +XIV. These were accompanied by a quantity of arms, helmets, shields, +breast-plates, and weapons used in the ancient tournaments, as well +as quivers, bows, arrows, swords, &c. + +Towards the end of the year 1798 and in 1799, several valuable +articles arrived here from Italy, among which are two crowns of gold, +enriched with precious stones, worn by the ancient kings of Lombardy, +at the time of their coronation; the engraved stones and medals of +the Pope's cabinet; a head of Jupiter Ægiochus, on a ground of +sardonyx, a master-piece of art, which is above all eulogium; the +celebrated Isiac table, in copper incrustated with silver, a valuable +table of Egyptian mythology, which is presumed to have been executed, +either at Alexandria or at Rome, in the first or second century of +the christian era; some oriental weapons; a _fetfa_ or diploma of the +Grand Signior contained in a silk purse, &c. + +The department of prints and engraved plates, formed of the +celebrated cabinets of MAHOLLES, BERINGHEN, GAIGNIÈRES, UXELLES, +BEGON, GAYLUS, FONTETTE, MARIETTE, &c. contained, before the +revolution the most ample, rich, and valuable collection in Europe. +It is placed in the _entresol_, and is divided into twelve classes. + +The first class comprehends sculptors, architectural engineers, and +engravers, from the origin of the French nation to the present day, +arranged in schools. + +The second, prints, emblems, and devices of piety. + +The third, every thing relative to fables and Greek and Roman +antiquities. + +The fourth, medals, coins, and heraldry. + +The fifth, public festivals, cavalcades, and tournaments. + +The sixth, arts and mathematics. + +The seventh, prints relating to novels and books of entertainment. + +The eighth, natural history in all its branches. + +The ninth, geography. + +The tenth, plans and elevations of ancient and modern buildings. + +The eleventh, portraits of all professions, to the number of upwards +of fifty thousand. + +The twelfth, a collection of the fashions and dresses of almost every +country in the world. + +Since 1789, the augmentations made to it are considerable. Among +these must be distinguished four hundred and thirty-five volumes +brought from the library of Versailles, and fifty-two others, +infinitely valuable, respecting China, found at the residence of M. +BERTIN, Minister, about eight thousand prints brought from Holland, +the greater part of them, very fine impressions; and about twelve +thousand collected by different emigrants, almost all modern, indeed, +but one half of which are select, and remarkable for their fine +preservation. + +Among five hundred volumes, obtained from the suppressed religious +corporations, are to be remarked one hundred and nine port-folios +from the abbey of _St. Victor_, in Paris, containing a beautiful +series of mythological, historical, and typographical subjects. This +forms a valuable addition to the collection of the same kind of which +the department of prints was already in possession. + +In one hundred and forty-four volumes brought from Cologne, there are +several scarce and singular engravings. + +As for sixty articles sent from Italy, they are, with the exception +of the _Museum Pio-Clementinum_, in such a state of degradation that +they are scarcely fit for any thing but to mark the place which each +composition has to occupy. + +Since 1789, the department of prints has made several acquisitions +deserving of notice, such as the works of LEBAS, MARCENAY, and RODE, +all extremely difficult to find complete, and three hundred and +seventeen plates sent from Germany by FHAUENHOTZ; most of them +executed by foreign engravers, and some are very capital. + +A few well-known distinguished artists and amateurs, among whom I +must not omit to name DENON, ST. AUBIN, and LAMOTTE, a merchant at +Havre, have generously enriched the department of prints with a great +number of very valuable ones. + +The library is open every day, Sundays, and days of national fêtes +excepted, from ten o'clock till two, to persons who wish to read, +study, or take notes; and for whom every accommodation is provided; +but to such as are attracted by curiosity alone, on the Wednesdays +and Fridays of each week, at the same hours. On those days, you may +perambulate in the different rooms of this magnificent establishment; +on the other days, walking is here prohibited, in order that students +may not be interrupted. However, JOHN BULL seems to pay little regard +to this prohibition. Englishmen are frequently seen stalking about +the rooms at the forbidden time, as if they meant to shew that they +disdained the rules of propriety and decorum.[1] + +Under the government which succeeded the monarchy, was established, +within the precincts of the _Bibliothèque Nationale_, a + +SCHOOL FOR ORIENTAL LIVING LANGUAGES. + +The design of this school, _which is of acknowledged utility in +politics and commerce_, is to qualify persons to supply the place of +the French droguemans in the East, who, at the beginning of the +troubles which distracted France, abandoned the interests of their +country, and deserted their stations. + +LANGLÈS, president of this school, here teaches the Persian and Malay +languages. + +SILVESTRE DE SACY, literal and vulgar Arabic. + +JAUBERT, Turkish and the Tartarian of the Crimea. + +DANSE DE VILLOISON, modern Greek. + +In general, very few pupils are instructed here, and the greater part +of those who begin the courses of lectures, do not follow them three +months. This fact I gathered from the professors themselves. When +FRANÇOIS DE NEUFCHÂTEAU was Minister, he had attached to this school +an Armenian, named CIREIED, who gave lessons in his native language, +which are now discontinued. + +A course of archæology is also delivered here by the learned MILLIN. +The object of this course is to explain antique monuments, and +compare them with passages of the classics. The professor indicates +respecting each monument the opinions of the different learned men +who have spoken of it: he also discusses those opinions, and +endeavours to establish that which deserves to be adopted. Every year +he treats on different subjects. The courses which he has already +delivered, related to the study of medals, and that of engraved +stones; the explanation of the ancient monuments still existing in +Spain, France, and England; the history of ancient and modern Egypt; +sacred and heroic mythology, under which head he introduced an +explanation of almost every monument of literature and art deserving +to be known. + +[Footnote 1: It is the intention of the government to remove the +_Bibliothèque Nationale_ to the _Louvre_, or _Palais National des +Sciences & des Arts_, as soon as apartments can be prepared for its +reception.] + + + +LETTER LXIV. + +_Paris, February 8, 1803._ + +Having complied with your desire in regard to the _Bibliothèque +Nationale_, I shall confine myself to a hasty sketch of the other +principal public libraries, beginning with the + +BIBLIOTHÈQUE MAZARINE. + +By his will, dated the 6th of March 1662, Cardinal MAZARIN bequeathed +this library for the convenience of the literati. It was formed by +GABRIEL NAUDÉ of every thing that could be found most rare and +curious, as well in France as in foreign countries. It occupies one +of the pavilions and other apartments of the _ci-devant Collège +Mazarin ou des Quatre Nations_, at present called _Palais des Beaux +Arts_. + +No valuable additions have been made to this library since the +revolution; but it is kept in excellent order. The Conservators, LE +BLOND, COQUILLE, and PALISSOT, whose complaisance is never tired, are +well known in the Republic of Letters. It is open to the public every +day, from ten o'clock to two, Sundays, Thursdays, and the days of +national fêtes excepted. + +BIBLIOTHÈQUE DU PANTHÉON. + +Next to the _Bibliothèque Nationale_, this library is said to contain +the most printed books and manuscripts, which are valuable on account +of their antiquity, scarceness, and preservation. It formerly bore +the title of _Bibliothèque de St. Geneviève_, and belonged to the +Canons of that order, who had enriched it in a particular manner. The +acquisitions it has made since the revolution are not sufficiently +important to deserve to be mentioned. With the exception of the +_Bibliothèque Nationale_, not one of the public libraries in Paris +has enjoyed the advantage of making improvements and additions. The +library of the _Pantheon_ is open to the public on the same days as +the _Bibliothèque Mazarine_. + +The present Conservators are DAUNOU, VENTENAT, and VIALLON. The first +two are members of the National Institute. + +BIBLIOTHÈQUE DE L'ARSENAL. + +This library, one of the richest in Paris, formerly belonged to the + +Count d'Artois. It is destined for the _Conservative Senate_, in +whose palace a place is preparing for its reception. However, it is +thought that this removal cannot take place in less than a year and a +half or two years. It has acquired little since the revolution, and +is frequented less than the other libraries, because it is rather +remote from the fashionable quarters of the town. There are few +inquisitive persons in the vicinity of the Arsenal; and indeed, this +library is open only on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays of every +week from ten o'clock till two. AMEILHON, of the Institute, is +Administrator; and SAUGRAIN, Conservator. + +Before I quit this library, you will, doubtless expect me to say +something of the place from which it derives its appellation; namely, + +THE ARSENAL. + +It is a pile of building, forming several courts between the _Quai +des Célestins_ and the _Place de la Liberté_, formerly the _Place de +la Bastille_. Charles V had here erected some storehouses for +artillery, which were lent very unwillingly by the Provost of Paris +to Francis I, who wanted them for the purpose of casting cannon. As +was foreseen, the king kept possession of them, and converted them +into a royal residence. On the 28th of January 1562, lightning fell +on one of the towers, then used as a magazine, and set fire to +fifteen or twenty thousand barrels of powder. Several lives were +lost, and another effect of this explosion was that it killed all the +fishes in the river. Charles IX, Henry III, and Henry IV rebuilt the +Arsenal, and augmented it considerably. Before the revolution, the +founderies served for casting bronze figures for the embellishment of +the royal gardens. The Arsenal then contained only a few rusty +muskets and some mortars unfit for service, notwithstanding the +energetic inscription which decorated the gate on the _Quai des +Célestins_: + + "Ætnæ hæc Henrico Vulcania tela ministrat, + Tela gigantæos debellatura furores." + +NICOLAS BOURBON was the author of these harmonious lines, which so +much excited the jealousy of the famous poet, SANTEUIL, that he +exclaimed in his enthusiasm, "I would have wished to have made them, +and been hanged." + +During the course of the revolution, the buildings of the Arsenal +have been appropriated to various purposes: at present even they seem +to have no fixed destination. Here is a garden, advantageously +situated, which affords to the inhabitants of this quarter an +agreeable promenade. + +The before-mentioned libraries are the most considerable in Paris; +but the _National Institute_, the _Conservative Senate_, the +_Legislative Body_, and the _Tribunate_, have each their respective +library, as well as the _Polytechnic School_, the _Council of the +School of Mines_, the _Tribunal of Cassation_, the _Conservatory of +Music_, the _Museum of Natural History_, &c. + +Independently of these libraries, here are also three literary +_dépôts_ or repositories, which were destined to supply the public +libraries already formed or to be formed, particularly those +appropriated to public instruction. When the Constituent Assembly +decreed the possessions of the clergy to be national property, the +_Committee of Alienation_ fixed on the monasteries of the _Capucins_, +_Grands Jésuites_, and _Cordeliers_, in Paris, as _dépôts_, for the +books and manuscripts, which they were desirous to save from +revolutionary destruction. + + + +LETTER LXV. + +_Paris, February 9, 1802._ + +_Vive la danse!_ _Vive la danse!_ seems now to prevail here +universally over _"Vive l'amour!_ _Vive la bagatelle!_" which was the +rage in the time of LA FLEUR. I have already informed you that, in +moments the most eventful, the inhabitants of this capital spent the +greater part of their time in + +DANCING. + +However extraordinary the fact may appear, it is no less true. When +the Prussians were at Châlons, the Austrians at Valenciennes, and +Robespierre in the Convention, they danced. When the young conscripts +were in momentary expectation of quitting their parents, their +friends, and their mistresses to join the armies, they danced. Can we +then wonder that, at the present hour, when the din of arms is no +longer heard, and the toils of war are on the point of being +succeeded by the mercantile speculations of peace, dancing should +still be the favourite pursuit of the Parisians? + +This is so much the case, that the walls of the metropolis are +constantly covered by advertisements in various colours, blue, red, +green, and yellow, announcing balls of different descriptions. The +silence of streets the least frequented is interrupted by the shrill +scraping of the itinerant fiddler; while by-corners, which might vie +with Erebus itself in darkness, are lighted by transparencies, +exhibiting, in large characters, the words "_Bal de Société_." +--"Happy people!" says Sterne, "who can lay down all your cares +together, and dance and sing and sport away the weights of grievance, +which bow down the spirit of other nations to the earth!" + +In summer, people dance here in rural gardens, or delightful bowers, +or under marquees, or in temporary buildings, representing +picturesque cottages, constructed within the limits of the capital: +these establishments, which are rather of recent date, are open only +in that gay season. + +In winter, the upper classes assemble in magnificent apartments, +where subscription-balls are given; and taste and luxury conspire to +produce elegant entertainments. + +However, it is not to the upper circles alone that this amusement is +confined; it is here pursued, and with truer ardour too, by citizens +of every class and description. An Englishman might probably be at a +loss to conceive this truth; I shall therefore enumerate the +different gradations of the scale from the report of an impartial +eye-witness, partly corroborated by my own observation. + +Tradesmen dance with their neighbours, at the residence of those who +have the best apartments: and the expense of catgut, rosin, &c. is +paid by the profits of the card-table. + +Young clerks in office and others, go to public balls, where the +_cavalier_ pays thirty _sous_ for admission; thither they escort +milliners and mantua-makers of the elegant class, and, in general, +the first-rate order of those engaging belles, known here by the +generic name of _grisettes_. + +Jewellers' apprentices, ladies' hair-dressers, journeymen tailors and +upholsterers dance, at twenty _sous_ a head, with sempstresses and +ladies' maids. + +Journeymen shoemakers, cabinet-makers, and workmen of other trades, +not very laborious, assemble in _guingettes_, where they dance French +country-dances at three _sous_ a ticket, with _grisettes_ of an +inferior order. + +Locksmiths, carpenters, and joiners dance at two _sous_ a ticket, +with women who constantly frequent the _guinguettes_, a species of +dancing-girls, whom the tavern-keepers hire for the day, as they do +the fiddlers. + +Water-carriers, porters, and, in general, the Swiss and Auvergnats +have their private balls, where they execute the dances peculiar to +their country, with fruit-girls, stocking-menders, &c. + +The porters of the corn-market form assemblies in their own +neighbourhood; but the youngest only go thither, with a few _bons +vivans_, whose profession it would be no easy matter to determine. + +Bucksome damsels, proof against every thing, keep them in +countenance, either in drinking brandy or in fighting, and not +unfrequently at the same _bal de société_, all this goes on at the +same time, and, as it were, in unison. + +Those among the porters of the corn-market and charcoal carriers, who +have a little _manners_, assemble on holidays, in public-houses of a +more decent description, with good, plain-spoken market-women, and +nosegay-girls. They drink unmixed liquor, and the conversation is +somewhat more than _free_; but, in public, they get tipsy, and +nothing farther! + +Masons, paviours in wooden shoes, tipped with iron, and other +hard-working men, in short, repair to _guingettes_, and make the +very earth tremble with their heavy, but picturesque capers, forming +groups worthy of the pencil of Teniers. + +Lastly, one more link completes the chain of this nomenclature of +caperers. Beggars, sturdy, or decrepit, dance, as well as their +credulous betters: they not only dance, but drink to excess; and +their orgies are more noisy, more prolonged, and even more expensive. +The mendicant, who was apparently lame in the day, at night lays +aside his crutch, and resumes his natural activity; the idle +vagabond, who concealed one arm, now produces both; while the wretch +whose wound excited both horror and pity, covers for a tune the large +blister by which he makes a very comfortable living. + + + +LETTER LXVI. + +_Paris, February 11, 1802._ + +In order to confer handsome pensions on the men of science who had +benefited mankind by their labours, and who, under the old _régime_, +were poorly rewarded, in 1795, LAKANAL solicited and obtained the +establishment of the + +BUREAU DES LONGITUDES. + +As members of this Board of Longitude, the first institution of the +kind in France, LAGRANGE, LAPLACE, LALANDE, CASSINI,[1] MÉCHAIN, +BORDA,[1] BOUGAINVILLE, FLEURIEU, MESSIER, BUACHE, and CARROCHÉ, the +optician, had each 8,000 francs (_circa_ £. 330 sterling) a year, and +the assistant astronomers, 4,000. Indeed, the professors of that +science were in want of pecuniary assistance for the purpose of +forming pupils. + +The _Bureau des Longitudes_ is on a more extensive scale, and +possesses greater authority than the Board of Longitude in England. +It is charged with the administration of all the Observatories +belonging to the Republic, as well as with the correspondence with +the astronomers of foreign countries. The government refers to it the +examination of memoirs relative to navigation. Such of its members as +more specially cultivate practical astronomy in the National +Observatories of the capital, are charged to make all Observations +which may contribute to the progress of that science, and procure new +means for rectifying the tables of the Sun, as well as those which +make known the position of the stars, and particularly the tables of +the Moon, the improvement of which so essentially concerns the safety +of navigation. + +The great importance of the last-mentioned tables induced this Board, +about three years ago, to propose a premium of 6,000 francs (_circa_ +£. 250 sterling) for tables of the Moon. LALANDE recommended to +BONAPARTE to double it. The First Consul took his advice: and the +French now have tables that greatly surpass those which are used in +England.[2] A copy of these have, I understand, been sent to Mr. +MASKELYNE, our Astronomer-Royal at Greenwich. + +The Board of Longitude of France, like that of England, calculates +for every year Tables or _Ephemerides_, known in Europe under the +title of _Connaissance des Tems_. The French having at length +procured able calculators, are now able to dispense with the English +_Ephemeris_. Their observations follow each other in such a manner as +to render it unnecessary for them to recur to those of Greenwich, of +which they have hitherto made continual use. Since the year 1795, the +_Connaissance des Tems_ has been compiled by JÉROME LALANDE. At the +end of the tables and their explanation, it contains a collection of +observations, memoirs, and important calculations. The French +astronomers are not a little surprised that we publish no similar +work in London; while Paris, Berlin, Vienna, Gotha, and Milan set us +the example. It is in the last volumes of the _Connaissance des Tems_ +that JÉROME LALANDE gives the history of astronomy, where you will +find every thing that has been done in this science. + +The _Bureau des Longitudes_ also publishes for every year, in +advance, the _Annuaire de la République_, which serves as a rule for +all the almanacks compiled in France. The meetings of the Board are +held at the + +NATIONAL OBSERVATORY. + +This edifice, which is situated at the farther end of the _Faubourg +St. Jacques_, was constructed in 1664, by order of COLBERT, and +under the direction of PERRAULT, the medical architect, who planned +the celebrated façade of the _Louvre_. + +The form of the building is rectangular. Neither wood nor iron have +been employed in its construction. It is arched throughout, and its +four sides stand exactly in the direction of the four cardinal points +of the horizon. Although its elevation is eighty-five feet, it +comprises but two stories, terminated by a flat roof, whence you +command a fine view of Paris. You ascend thither by a winding +staircase which has a hollow newel. This staircase, consisting of +three hundred and sixty steps, extends downward to a similar depth of +eighty-five feet, and forms a sort of well, at the bottom of which +you can perceive the light. From this well have been observed the +different degrees of acceleration in the descent of bodies. + +The subterraneous vaults have served for meteorological experiments. +In one of them water is seen to petrify on filtering through the rock +above. They lead to near fifty streets or passages, formed by +quarries excavated in procuring the stones with which great part of +the city of Paris is constructed. + +Previously to the year 1777, churches, palaces, whole streets of +houses, and the public highway of several quarters of Paris and its +environs, were on the point of being swallowed up in gulfs no less +vast in depth than in extent. Since then, considerable works have +been undertaken to consolidate these subterraneous caverns, and fill +up the void, equally dangerous, occasioned by the working of the +plaster-quarries. + +An accident of a very alarming nature, which happened in the _Rue +d'Enfer_ in the year 1774; and another, at Montmenil, in 1778, shewed +the necessity of expediting these operations, which were followed up +with great activity from 1777 to 1789, when their progress was +relaxed from the circumstances of the times. These quarries are far +more extensive than is commonly imagined. In the department of the +Seine alone, they extend under all the south part of Paris, and the +roads, plains, and _communes_, to the distance of several leagues +round the circumference of this city. Their roof, with the edifices +standing on the soil that covers it, is either supported by walls +recently built under the foundation of those edifices, or by pillars +constructed at different periods in several places. The government is +at the expense of providing for the safety of the streets, highways, +and public buildings, but that of propping under-ground all private +habitations must be defrayed by the proprietor. These ancient +quarries had been much neglected, and the means of visiting them was +equally dangerous and inconvenient. At present, every precaution is +taken to insure the safety of the persons employed in them, as well +as the stability of their roof; and for the better superintendance of +all the subterraneous constructions of Paris, galleries of +communication have been formed of sufficient width to admit the free +passage of materials necessary for keeping them in repair. + +Let us now find our way out of these labyrinths, and reascending to +the surface of the soil, pursue our examination of the Observatory. + +In a large room on the first floor is traced the meridian line, which +divides this building into two parts. Thence, being extended to the +south and north, it crosses France from Colieure to Dunkirk. + +On the pavement of one of the rooms is engraved a universal circular +map, by CHAZELLES and SÉDILLAN. Another room is called the _Salle aux +secrets_, because on applying the mouth to the groove of a pilaster, +and whispering, a person placed at the opposite pilaster hears what +is said, while those in the middle of the room, hear nothing. This +phenomenon, the cause of which has been so often explained, must be +common to all buildings constructed in this manner. + +In speaking of the _Champ de Mars_, I mentioned that LALANDE obtained +the construction of an Observatory at the _ci-devant École +Militaire_. Since 1789, he and his nephew have discovered fifty +thousand stars; an immense labour, the greater part of them being +telescopic and invisible to the naked eye. Of this number, he has +already classed thirty thousand. + +The CASSINIS had neglected the Observatory in Paris; but when LALANDE +was director of this establishment, he obtained from BONAPARTE good +instruments of every description and of the largest dimensions. These +have been executed by the first artists, who, with the greatest +intelligence, have put in practice all the means of improvement which +we owe to the fortunate discoveries of the eighteenth century. Of +course, it is now as well provided as that of Greenwich. MÉCHAIN, the +present director, and BOUVARD, his associate, are extremely assiduous +in their astronomical labours. + +CARROCHÉ has made for this Observatory a twenty-two feet telescope, +which rivals those of HERSCHEL of the same length; and the use of +reflecting circles, imagined by MAYER, and brought into use by BORDA, +which LENOIR executes in a superior manner, and which we have not yet +chosen to adopt in England, has introduced into the observations of +the French an accuracy hitherto unknown. The meridian from Dunkirk to +Barcelona, measured between the years 1792 and 1798, by DELAMERE and +MÉCHAIN, is of an astonishing exactness. It has brought to light the +irregularity of the degrees, which was not suspected. The rules, +composed of platina and copper, which LAVOISIER and BORDA imagined +for measuring bases, without having occasion to calculate the effect +of dilatation, are a singular invention, and greatly surpass what +RAMSDEN made for the bases measured in England. + +LAPLACE has discovered in the Moon inequalities with which we were +not acquainted. The work he has published, under the title of +_Mécanique Céleste_, contains the most astonishing discoveries of +physical theory, the great inequality of Jupiter and Saturn, the +acceleration of the Moon, the equation of the third Satellite of +Jupiter, and the flux and reflux of the sea. + +BURCKHARDT, one of the associated members of the _Bureau des +Longitudes_, is a first-rate astronomer and a man of superior talent. +He is at present employed on the difficult task of calculating the +very considerable derangements of the planet discovered by OLBERS at +Bremen, on the 28th of March 1801. + +VIDAL has made, at Mirepoix, more observations of Mercury than all +the astronomers for two thousand years past, and these are the most +difficult and uncommon. + +DELAMBRE has computed tables of the Sun, of Jupiter, of Saturn, and +of Herschel; LALANDE, the nephew, has composed tables of Mars; and +his uncle, of Mercury, which never deviate more than a few seconds +from the observations. + +Even during the reign of terror, astronomy was not neglected. Through +the interest of CARNOT, CALON, LAKANAL, and FOURCROY, the _Bureau de +Consultation des Arts_ gave annually the sum of 300,000 francs +(_circa_ £12,000 sterling) in gratifications to artists. + +Afterwards, in 1796, the National Institute, richly endowed, proposed +considerable premiums. LALANDE, the uncle, founded one for astronomy; +BONAPARTE, another for physics; and the First Consul has promised +60,000 francs (_circa_ £2,800 sterling) to any one who shall make a +discovery of importance. + +France can now boast of two young geometricians, BIOT and PUISSON, +who, for analytical genius, surpass all that exist in Europe. It is +rather extraordinary that, with the exception of Mr. CAVENDISH and +Dr. WARING, England has produced no great geometricians since the +death of MACLAURIN, STERLING, and SIMPSON. + +The French tables of Logarithms, printed stereotypically, are cleared +of all the errors which afflicted calculators of every country. Those +of other nations will owe this obligation to Frenchmen. + +HERSCHEL no longer looks for comets; but the French astronomers, +MESSIER, MÉCHAIN, BOUVARD, and PONS find some. Last year, JÉROME +LALANDE deposited 600 francs in the hands of his notary, as a premium +to stimulate the efforts of young observers. + + * * * * * + +_February 11, in continuation._ + +In the spring of 1803, MÉCHAIN will leave Paris for the purpose of +extending his meridian to the Balearic Islands. He will measure the +length of the pendulum in several places, in order to ascertain the +inequality of the earth which the measure of the degrees had +indicated. This circumstance reminds me of my neglect in not having +yet satisfied your desire to have a short account of the means +employed for fixing the standard of the + +NEW FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. + +Among the great ideas realized during the first period of the +revolution, must be reckoned that of a uniform system of weights and +measures. From all parts of France remonstrances were sent against +the great variety of those in use. Several kings had endeavoured to +remedy this evil, which was so hurtful to lawful trade, and +favourable only to fraud and double-dealing. Yet what even _they_ had +not been able to effect, was undertaken by the Constituent Assembly. +It declared that there ought to be but one standard of weights and +measures, in a country subject to the same laws. The _Academy of +Sciences_ was charged to seek and present the best mode of carrying +this decree into execution. That society proposed the adoption of the +decimal division, by taking for a fundamental unit the ten-millionth +part of the quarter of the terrestrial meridian. The motives which +determined this choice were the extreme simplicity of decimal +calculation, and the advantage of having a measure taken from nature. +The latter condition would, in truth, have been accomplished, had +there been taken, as a fundamental unit, the length of the pendulum +marking seconds for a given latitude; but the measure of an arc of +the meridian, executed with the precision to be obtained by the +methods and instruments of the present day, was extremely interesting +in regard to the theory of the figure of the earth. This influenced +the decision of the Academy, and if the motives which it presented to +the Constituent Assembly were not exactly the real ones, it is +because the sciences have also their policy: it sometimes happens +that to serve mankind, one must resolve to deceive them. + +All the measures of the metrical system, adopted by the Republic, are +deduced from a base taken from nature, the fourth part of the +terrestrial meridian; and the divisions of those measures are all +subjected to the decimal order employed in arithmetic. + +In order to establish this base, the grand and important work of +taking a new measure of the terrestrial meridian, from Dunkirk to +Barcelona, was begun in 1792. At the expiration of seven years, it +was terminated; and the Institute presented the result to the +Legislative Body with the original table of the new measures. + +MÉCHAIN and DELAMBRE measured the angles of ninety triangles with the +new reflecting circles; imagined by MAYER, and which BORDA had caused +to be constructed. With these instruments, they made four +observations of latitude at Dunkirk, Paris, Évaux, Carcassonne, and +Barcelona; two bases measured near Melun and Perpignan, with rules of +platina and copper, forming metallic thermometers, were connected +with the triangles of the meridian line: the total interval, which +was 9°.6738, was found to be 551584.72 toises. As the degrees +progressively diminished towards the south, but much more towards the +middle than towards the extremities, the middle of the whole arc was +taken; and, on comparing it with the degrees measured at Peru, +between the years 1737 and 1741, the ellipticity of the earth was +concluded to be 1/334 the mean degree, 57008 toises; and the MÈTRE, +which is the ten-millionth part of the quarter of the meridian, +443.296 lines of the old French toise which had been used at Peru. + +The Commissioners, sent from foreign countries, verified all the +calculations, and sanctioned the results. The experiments of the +pendulum made at the observatory, with extreme care, by BORDA, +MÉCHAIN, and CASSINI, with a new apparatus, constructed by LENOIR, +shewed the pendulum to be 0.99385 of the _mètre_, on reducing it to +the freezing point, and in _vacuo_: this would be sufficient for +finding again the _mètre_, though all the standards were changed or +lost. + +Exact experiments, made by LEFÈVRE-GINEAU, with instruments +constructed by FORTIN, shewed the weight of the cubic decimetre of +distilled water, at the point of the greatest condensation to be +18827.15 grains of the pile of 50 marcs, which is preserved here in +the _Hôtel de la Monnaie_, and is called _Le poids de Charlemagne_; +the toise being supposed at 13 degrees of the thermometer of 80 +degrees. The scales of FORTIN might give a millionth part and more; +and LEFÈVRE-GINEAU employed in all these experiments and calculations +the most scrupulous degree of exactness. + +Thus the MÈTRE or principal unit of the French linear measures has +furnished those of the weights; and all this grand system, taken from +nature, is connected with the base the most invariable, the size of +the earth itself. + +The unit of the measures of capacity is a cube whose side is the +tenth part of the _mètre_, to which has been given the name of LITRE; +the unit of measures of solidity, relative to wood, a cube whose side +is the _mètre_, which is called STÈRE. In short, the thousandth part +of a _litre_ of distilled water, weighed in _vacuo_ and at the +temperature of melting ice, has been chosen for the unit of weights, +which is called GRAMME. + +The following TABLE presents the nomenclature of these different +Measures, their divisions, and multiples, together with the new +Weights, as decreed by the Legislative Body, and to it is annexed +their correspondence both with the old French Measures and Weights, +and those of England. + + * * * * * + + LINEAR MEASURES. + + FRENCH ENGLISH + T F I L M F Y Ft I[A] + + Myriamètre (or League) + 10,000 Mètres 5,130 4 5 3.360 6 1 156 0 6 + + Kilomètre (or Mile) + 1,000 Mètres 513 0 5 3.936 - 4 213 1 10.2 + + Hectomètre + 100 Mètres 51 1 10 1.583 - - 109 1 1 + + Décamètre (or Perch) + 10 Mètres 5 0 9 4.959 - - 10 2 9.7 + + MÈTRE - 3 0 11.296 - - --- 3 3.371 + + Décimètre (or Palm) + 10th of a Mètre - - 3 8.330 - - --- - 3.937 + + Centimètre (or Digit) + 100th of a Mètre - - -- 4.433 - - --- - 0.393 + + Millimètre (or Trait) + 1,000th of a Mètre - - -- 0.443 - - --- - 0.039 + +[Footnote A: French measurements in Toises (T), Feet (F), Inches (I), +and Lines (L). English mesurements in Miles (M), Furlongs (F), Yards +(Y), Feet (Ft), and Inches (I).] + + + AGRARIAN MEASURES. + + A R P[B] + + Myriare, square Kilomètre + 263244.93 ST 247 0 20 + + Milare 26324.49 ST 24 2 34 + + Hectare, (or _Arpent_) square Hectomètre + 2632.45 ST 2 1 35.4 + + Décare 263.24 ST --- - 39.54 + + ARE, (or square _Perch_) square Decamètre + 26.32 ST --- - 3.954 + + Déciare 2.63 ST --- - 0.395 + + Centiare, (or 100th part of a square Perch) square _Mètre_ + 0.26 ST --- - 0.039 + +[Footnote B: French measurements in Square Toises (ST). English +measurements in Acres (A), Roods (R) and Perches (P).] + + + MEASURES OF CAPACITY. + Cubic Inches + + Kilolitre, (or Hogshead) cubic Mètre + 29.1739 cubic feet 61028 + + Hectolitre, (or Setier) + 2.9174 cubic feet 6102.8 + + Decalitre, (or Bushel) + 0.2917 cubic feet 610.28 + + LITRE; (or Pinte) cubic Décimètre + 50.4124 cubic inches 61.028 + + Décilitre, (or Glass) + 5.0412 cubic inches 6.1028 + + Centilitre 0.5041 cubic inches 0.6102 + + Millitre, cubic Centimèter + 0.0504 cubic inches 0.061 + + N. B. A Litre is nearly equal to 2-7/8 Pints, English Wine Measure. + + + MEASURES FOR WOOD. + + Cubic Feet. + + Stère, cubical Mètre + 29.1739 cubic feet 35.3171 + + Décistère, (or Solive) + 2.9174 cubic feet 3.5317 + + Centistère + 0.2917 cubic feet 0.3531 + + Millistère, cubic Décimètre + 0.0291 cubic feet 0.0353 + + + WEIGHTS. + TROY + + lbs. oz. d. gr. lbs. oz. dw. gr.[C] + + Myriagramme 20 6 6 63.5 26 9 15 0.23 + + Kilogramme, (or Pound) weight of the cubic Décimètre + of water at 4° which is the maximum of density + 2 0 5 35.15 2 8 3 12.02 + + Hectogramme, (or Ounce) + -- 3 2 10.72 -- 3 4 8.40 + + Décagramme, (or Drachm) + -- - 2 44.27 -- - 6 10.44 + + GRAMME, (or Denier) weight of the cubic + Centimètreat the freezing point + -- - - 18.827 -- - -- 15.444 + + Déciegramme, (or Grain) + -- - - 1.883 -- - -- 1.544 + + Centigramme + -- - - 0.188 -- - -- 0.154 + + Milligramme, weight of the cubic + Millemètre of water + -- - - 0.019 -- - -- 0.015 + +[Footnote C: The labels on first set of columns are lbs., oz., drms., +and grains; and on the second, lbs. oz. dwts. and grains.] + + +[Footnote 1: Since dead. The former is replaced by DELAMBRE. CHABERT +and PRONY are elected supernumerary members, and LEFRANÇAIS LALANDE, +BOUVARD, and BURCKHARDT, appointed assistant astronomers.] + +[Footnote 2: The Prize has been awarded to M. BURG, an astronomer at +Vienna.] + + + +LETTER LXVII. + +_Paris, February 14, 1802._ + +After speaking of the _Board of Longitude_ and the _National +Observatory_, I must not omit to say a few words of an establishment +much wanted in England. I mean the + +DÉPÔT DE LA MARINE. + +This general repository of maps, charts, plans, journals, and +archives of the Navy and the Colonies, is under the direction of a +flag-officer. It is situated in the _Rue de la Place Vendôme_; but +the archives are still kept in an office at Versailles. To this +_Dépôt_ are attached the Hydrographer and Astronomer of the Navy, +both members of the National Institute and of the Board of Longitude, +and also a number of engineers and draughtsmen proportioned to the +works which the government orders to be executed. + +The title of this _Dépôt_ sufficiently indicates what it contains. To +it has been lately added a library, composed of all the works +relative to navigation, hydrography, naval architecture, and to the +navy in general, as well as of all the voyages published in the +different dead or living languages. The collection of maps, charts, +plans, &c. belonging to it, is composed of originals in manuscript, +ancient and modern, of French or foreign sea-charts, published at +different times, and of maps of the possessions beyond the seas +belonging to the maritime states of Europe and to the United-States +of America. + +All the commanders of vessels belonging to the State are bound, on +their return to port, to address to the Minister of the Naval +Department, in order to be deposited in the archives, the journals of +their voyage, and the astronomical or other observations which they +have been enabled to make, and the charts and plans which they have +had an opportunity of constructing. + +One of the apartments of the _Dépôt_ contains models of ships of war +and other vessels, the series of which shews the progress of naval +architecture for two centuries past, and the models of the different +machines employed in the ports for the various operations relative to +building, equipping, repairing, and keeping in order ships and +vessels of war. + +The _Dépôt de la Marine_ publishes new sea-charts in proportion as +new observations or discoveries indicate the necessity of suppressing +or rectifying the old ones. + +When the service requires it, the engineers belonging to the _Dépôt_ +are detached to verify parts of the coasts of the French territory in +Europe, or in any other part of the world, where experience has +proved that time has introduced changes with which it is important to +be acquainted, or to rectify the charts of other parts that had not +yet been surveyed with the degree of exactness of which the methods +now known and practised have rendered such works susceptible. + +In the French navy, commanders of ships and vessels are supplied with +useful charts and atlases of every description, at the expense of the +nation. These are delivered into their care previously to the ship +leaving port. When a captain is superseded in his command, he +transfers them to his successor; and when the ship is put out of +commission, they are returned to the proper office. Why does not the +British government follow an example so justly deserving of +imitation? + + + +LETTER LXVIII. + +_Paris, February 15, 1802._ + +After the beautiful theatre of the old _Comédie Française_, under its +new title of _l'Odéon_, became a prey to flames, as I have before +mentioned, the comedians belonging it were dispersed on all sides. At +length, PICARD assembled a part of them in a house, built at the +beginning of the revolution, which, from the name of the street where +it is situated, is called the + +THÉÂTRE LOUVOIS. + +No colonnade, no exterior decoration announces it as a place of +public amusement, and any one might pass it at noon-day without +suspecting the circumstance, but for the prices of admission being +painted in large characters over the apertures in the wall, where the +public deposit their money. + +This house, which is of a circular form, is divided, into four tiers +of boxes. The ornaments in front of them, not being in glaring +colours, give, by their pale tint, a striking brilliancy to the dress +of the women. + +PICARD, the manager of this theatre, is the MOLIÈRE of his company; +that is, he is at once author and actor, and, in both lines, +indefatigable. Undoubtedly, the most striking, and, some say, the +only resemblance he bears to the mirror of French comedy, is to be +compelled to bring on the stage pieces in so unfinished a state as to +be little more than sketches, or, in other words, he is forced to +write in order to subsist his company. Thus then, the stock-pieces of +this theatre are all of them of his own composition. The greater part +are _imbroglios_ bordering on farce. The _vis comica_ to be found in +them is not easily understood by foreigners, since it chiefly +consists in allusions to local circumstances and sayings of the day. +However, they sometimes produce laughter in a surprising degree, but +more frequently make those laugh who never blush to laugh at any +thing. + +The most lively of his pieces are _Le Collatéral_ and _la Petite +Ville_. In the course of last month, he produced one under the name +of _La Grande Ville, ou les Provinciaux à Paris_, which occasioned a +violent uproar. The characters of this pseudo-comedy are swindlers or +fools; and the spectators insisted that the portraits were either too +exact a copy of the originals, or not at all like them. By means of +much insolence, by means of the guard which was incautiously +introduced into the pit, and which put to flight the majority of the +audience, and, lastly, by means of several alterations, PICARD +contrived to get his piece endured. But this triumph may probably be +the signal of his ruin,[1] as the favour of the Parisian public, once +lost, is never to be regained. + +This histrionic author and manager has written some pieces of a +serious cast. The principal are, _Médiocre et Rampant_, and _L'Entrée +dans le Monde_. As in _La Grande Ville_, the characters in these are +also cheats or fools. Consequently, it was not difficult to conduct +the plot, it would have been much more so to render it interesting. +These two comedies are written in verse which might almost pass for +prose. + +The _Théâtre Louvois_ is open to all young authors who have the +ambition to write for the stage, before they have well stored their +mind with the requisites. Novelties here succeed each other with +astonishing rapidity. Hence, whatever success PICARD may have met +with as an author, he has not been without competitors for his +laurels. Out of no less than one hundred and sixty-seven pieces +presented for rehearsal and read at this house, one hundred and +sixty-five are said to have been refused. Of the two accepted, the +one, though written forty years ago, was brought out as a new piece, +and damned. However, the ill success of a piece represented here is +not remarked; the fall not being great. + +The friends of this theatre call it _La petite Maison de Thalie_. +They take the part for the whole. It is, in fact, no more than her +anti-chamber. As for the drawing-room of the goddess, it is no longer +to be found any where in Paris. + +The performers who compose PICARD'S company do no injustice to his +pieces. It is affirmed that this company has what is called, on the +French stage, _de l'ensemble_. With few exceptions, there is an +_ensemble_, as it is very indifferent. For such an interpretation to +be correct, it would be necessary for all the comedians of the +_Théâtre Louvois_ to have great talents, and none can be quoted. + +PICARD, though not unfrequently applauded, is but a sorry actor. His +cast of parts is that of valets and comic characters. + +DEVIGNY performs the parts of noble fathers and foolish ones, here +termed _dindons_, and grooms, called by the French _jockeis_. The +remark, that he who plays every thing plays nothing, has not been +unaptly applied to him. He has a defect of pronunciation which shocks +even the ear of a foreigner. + +DORSAN is naturally cold and stiff, and when he endeavours to repair +the former of these defects, the weakness of his powers betrays him. +If he speaks correctly, it is without _finesse_, and he never adds by +expression to the thought of the author. + +CLOZEL is a very handsome young man. He performs the characters of +_petits-maîtres_ and those of valets, which he confounds incessantly. +The other actors of the _Théâtre Louvois_ exempt me from naming them. + +As for the actresses at this theatre, those only worthy to be +mentioned are, Mademoiselle ADELINE, who has a rather pretty face, +and plays not ill innocent parts; Mademoiselle BEFFROI, who is +handsome, especially in male attire; and Mademoiselle MOLIÈRE, who is +a very good _soubrette_. Mademoiselle LESCOT, tired of obtaining +applause at the _Théâtre du Vaudeville_, wished to do the same on a +larger theatre. Here, she has not even the consolation of saying + + "_Tel brille au second rang, qui s'éclipse au premier._" + +Madame MOLÉ, who is enormous in bulk, is a coarse caricature, whether +she performs the parts of noble mothers, or what the French call +_caractères_, that is, singular characters. + + * * * * * + +The _ci-devant Comédie Italienne_ in Paris partly owed its prosperity +to the _Vaudeville_, which might be considered as the parent of the +_Opéra-Comique_. They were united, when the _drame_ being introduced +with songs, had like to have annihilated them both. The _Vaudeville_ +was sacrificed and banished. Several years elapsed before it +reappeared. This offspring of French gaiety was thought to be lost +for ever; but a few authors had prepared for it an asylum under the +name of + +THÉÂTRE DU VAUDEVILLE. + +This little theatre is situated in the _Rue de Chartres_, which faces +the principal entrance of the _Palais du Tribunat_. The interior is +of a circular form, and divided into four tiers of boxes. In general, +the decorations are not of the first class, but in the dresses the +strictest propriety is observed. + +The pieces performed at the _Vaudeville_ are little comedies of the +sentimental cast, a very extensive collection of portraits of French +authors and of a few foreigners,[2] some pastoral pieces, parodies +closely bordering on the last new piece represented at one of the +principal theatres, charming _harlequinades_, together with a few +pieces, in some of which parade and show are introduced; in others, +scenes of low life and vulgarity; but the latter species is now +almost abandoned. + +These pieces are almost always composed in conjunction. It is by no +means uncommon to see in the play-bills the names of five or six +authors to a piece, in which the public applaud, perhaps, no more +than three verses of a song. This association of names, however, has +the advantage of saving many of them from ridicule. + +The authors who chiefly devote themselves to the species of +composition from which this theatre derives its name, are BARRÉ, +RADET, and DESFONTAINES, who may be considered as its founders. +BOURGEUIL, DESCHAMPS, DESPREZ, and the two SÉGURS, also contribute to +the success of the _Vaudeville_, together with CHAZET, JOUY, +LONGCHAMPS, and some others. + +In the exercise of their talents, these writers suffer no striking +adventure, no interesting anecdote to escape their satirical humour; +but aim the shafts of ridicule at every subject likely to afford +amusement. It may therefore be conceived that this house is much +frequented. No people on earth can be more fickle than the French in +general, and the Parisians in particular, in the choice of their +diversions. Like children, they are soon tired of the same toy, and +novelty is for them the greatest attraction. Hence, the _Vaudeville_, +as has been seen, presents a great variety of pieces. In general, +these are by no means remarkable for the just conception of their +plan. The circumstance of the moment adroitly seized, and related in +some well-turned stanzas, interspersed with dialogue, is sufficient +to insure the success of a new piece, especially if adapted to the +abilities of the respective performers. + +Among them, HENRY would shine in the parts of lovers, were he less of +a _mannerist_. + +JULIEN may be quoted as an excellent imitator of the beaux of the +day. + +VERTPRÉ excels in personating a striking character. + +CARPENTIER is no bad representative of a simpleton. + +CHAPELLE displays much comic talent and warmth in the character of +dotards, who talk themselves out of their reason. + +LAPORTE, as a speaking Harlequin, has no equal in Paris. + +So much for the men: I shall now speak of the women deserving of +notice. + +Madame HENRY, in the parts of lovers, is to be preferred for her fine +eyes, engaging countenance, elegant shape, and clear voice. + +Mesdemoiselles COLOMBE and LAPORTE, who follow her in the same line +of acting, are both young, and capable of improvement. + +Mademoiselle DESMARES is far from being pretty; neither is she much +of an actress, but she treads the stage well, and sings not amiss. + +Mademoiselle BLOSSEVILLE plays chambermaids and characters of parody +with tolerable success. + +Mademoiselle DELILLE, however, who performs caricatures and +characters where frequent disguises are assumed, is a still greater +favourite with the public. So much has been said of the glibness of a +female tongue that many of the comparisons made on the subject are +become proverbial; but nothing that I ever heard in that way can be +compared to the volubility of utterance of Mademoiselle DELILLE, +except the clearness of her articulation. A quick and attentive ear +may catch every syllable as distinctly as if she spoke with the +utmost gravity and slowness. The piece in which she exhibits this +talent to great advantage, and under a rapid succession of disguises, +is called _Frosine ou la dernière venue_. + +Mademoiselle FLEURY makes an intelligent Columbine, not unworthy of +LAPORTE. + +Madame DUCHAUME represents not ill characters of duennas, +country-women, &c. + +Nothing can be said of the voice of the different performers of this +theatre, on which acccount, perhaps, the orchestra is rather feeble; +but still it might be better composed. + +During my present visit to Paris, the _Vaudeville_, as it is commonly +called, has, I think, insensibly declined. It has, however, been said +that its destiny seems insured by the character of the French, and +that being the first theatre to bend to the caprices of the day, it +can never be out of fashion. Certainly, if satire be a good +foundation, it ought to be the most substantial dramatic +establishment in Paris. It rests on public malignity, which is its +main support. Hence, one might conclude that it will last as long as +there is evil doing or evil saying, an absurdity to catch at, an +author to parody, a tale of scandal to relate, a rogue to abuse, and, +in short, as long as the chapter of accidents shall endure. At this +rate, the _Vaudeville_ must stand to all eternity. + +Whatever may be its defects, it unquestionably exemplifies the +character of the nation, so faithfully pourtrayed by Beaumarchais, in +the following lines of the _vaudeville_ which concludes the _Mariage +de Figaro_: + + _"Si l'on opprime, il peste, il crie, + Il s'agite en cent façons, + Tout finit par des chansons." bis._ + +[Footnote 1: The _Théâtre Louvois_ is rapidly on the decline.] + +[Footnote 2: These are pieces the hero of which is a celebrated +personage, such as RABELAIS, SCARRON, VOLTAIRE, ROUSSEAU, +MALESHERBES, FREDERIC, king of Prussia, &c. &c.] + + + +LETTER LXIX. + +_Paris, February 17, 1802._ + +After having traversed the _Pont Neuf_, from the north side of the +Seine, you cannot avoid noticing a handsome building to the right, +situated on the _Quai de Conti_, facing the river. This is the Mint, +or + +HÔTEL DE LA MONNAIE. + +The construction of this edifice was suggested by M. LAVERDY, +Minister of State, and executed under the direction of M. ANTOINE, +architect. I do not recollect any building of the kind in Europe that +can be compared to it, since it far surpasses the _Zecca_ at Venice. + +The Abbé Terray (whose name will not be readily forgotten by the +State-annuitants of his time, and for whom Voltaire, as one, said +that he preserved his only tooth) when Comptroller-general of the +Finances, laid the first stone of the _Hôtél de la Monnaie_, in April +1771. + +An avant-corps, decorated with six Ionic pillars, and supported by +two wings, from the division of the façade, which is three hundred +and thirty-six feet in breadth by eighty-four in elevation. It is +distributed into two stories above the ground-floor. Perpendicularly +to the six pillars, rise six statues, representing Peace, Commerce, +Prudence, Law, Strength, and Plenty. + +In this avant-corps are three arches, the centre one of which is the +principal entrance of the building. The vestibule is decorated with +twenty-four fluted Doric pillars, and on the right hand, is a +stair-case, leading to the apartments intended for the use of the +officers belonging to the Mint, and in which they hold their +meetings. This stair-case is lighted by a dome supported by sixteen +fluted pillars of the Ionic order. + +The whole building contains six courts: the principal court is one +hundred and ten feet in depth by ninety-two in breadth. All round it +are covered galleries, terminated by a circular wall alternately +pierced with arches and gates. + +The entrance of the hall for the money-presses is ornamented by four +Doric pillars. This hall is sixty-two feet long by about forty broad, +and contains nine money-presses. Above it is the hall of the sizers +or persons who prepare the blank pieces for stamping. Next come the +flatting-mills. Here, in a word, are all the apartments necessary for +the different operations, and aptly arranged for the labours of +coinage. + +In the principal apartment of the avant-corps of the _Hôtel de la +Monnaie_, towards the _Quai de Conti_, is the cabinet known in Paris +by the name of the + +MUSÉE DES MINES. + +This cabinet or Museum was formed in 1778 by M. SAGE, who had then +spent eighteen years in collecting minerals. When he began to employ +himself on that science forty-five years ago, there existed in this +country no collection which could facilitate the study of mineralogy. +Docimacy vas scarcely known here by name. France was tributary to +foreign countries thirty-seven millions of livres (_circa_ £1,541,666 +sterling) a year for the mineral and metallic substances which she +drew from them, although she possesses them within herself. M. SAGE +directed his studies and labours to the research and analysis of +minerals. For twenty years he has delivered _gratis_ public courses +of chymistry and mineralogy. For the advancement of those sciences, +he also availed himself of the favour he enjoyed with some persons at +court and in the ministry, and this was certainly making a very +meritorious use of it. To his care and interest is wholly due the +collection of minerals placed in this building. The apartment +containing it has, by some, been thought to deviate from the simple +and severe style suitable to its destination, and to resemble too +much the drawing-room of a fine lady. But those who have hazarded +such a reproach do not consider that, at the period when this cabinet +was formed, it was not useless, in order to bring the sciences into +fashion, to surround them with the show of luxury and the elegance of +accessory decoration. Who knows even whether that very circumstance, +trifling as it may appear, has not somewhat contributed to spread a +taste for the two sciences in question among the great, and in the +fashionable world? + +However this may be, the arrangement of this cabinet is excellent, +and, in that respect, it is worthy to serve as a model. The +productions of nature are so disposed that the glazed closets and +cases containing them present, as it were, an open book in which the +curious and attentive observer instructs himself with the greater +facility and expedition, as he can without effort examine and study +perfectly every individual specimen. + +The inside of the Museum is about forty-five feet in length, +thirty-eight in breadth, and forty in elevation. In the middle is an +amphitheatre capable of holding two hundred persons. In the +circumference are glazed cabinets or closets, in which are arranged +methodically and analytically almost all the substances known in +mineralogy. The octagonal gallery, above the elliptical amphitheatre, +contains large specimens of different minerals. To each specimen is +annexed an explanatory ticket. One of the large lateral galleries +presents part of the productions of the mines of France, classed +according to the order of the departments where they are found. The +new transversal gallery contains models of furnaces and machines +employed in the working of mines. The third gallery is also destined +to contain the minerals of France, the essays and results of which +are deposited in a private cabinet. The galleries are decorated with +tables and vases of different species of marble, porphyry, and +granite, also from the mines of France, collected by SAGE. The cupola +which rises above, is elegantly ornamented from the designs of +ANTOINE, the architect of the building. + +This Museum is open to the public every day from nine o'clock in the +morning till two, and, though it has been so many years an object of +curiosity, such is the care exerted in superintending it, that it has +all the freshness of novelty. + +In a niche, on the first landing-place of the stair-case, is the bust +of M. SAGE, a tribute of gratitude paid to him by his pupils. SAGE'S +principal object being to naturalize in France mineralogy, docimacy, +and metallurgy, he first obtained the establishment of a _Special +School of Mines_, in which pupils were maintained by the State. Here, +he directed their studies, and enjoyed the happiness of forming +intelligent men, capable of improving the science of metallurgy, and +promoting the search of ores, &c. + +For a number of years past, as I have already observed, SAGE has +delivered _gratis_, in this Museum; public courses of chymistry and +mineralogy. He attracts hither many auditors by the ease of his +elocution, and the address, the grace even which he displays in his +experiments. If all those who have attended his lectures are to be +reckoned his pupils, there will be found in the number names +illustrious among the _savans_ of France. Unfortunately, this veteran +of science has created for himself a particular system in chymistry, +and this system differs from that of LAVOISIER, FOURCROY, +GUYTON-MORVEAU, BERTHOLLET, CHAPTAL, &c. The sciences have also their +schisms; but the real _savans_ are not persecutors. Although SAGE was +not of their opinion on many essential points, his adversaries always +respected him as the man who had first drawn the attention of the +government towards the art of mines, instigated the establishment of +the first school which had existed for this important object, and +been the author of several good analyses. On coming out of prison, +into which he had been thrown during the reign of terror, he found +this cabinet of mineralogy untouched. It would then have been easy, +from motives of public utility, to unite it to the new School of +Mines. But the heads of this new school had, for the most part, +issued from the old one, and SAGE was dear to them from every +consideration. It was from a consequence of this sentiment that SAGE, +who had been a member of the _Academy of Sciences_, not having been +comprised in the list of the members of the National Institute at the +time of its formation, has since been admitted into that learned +body, not as a chymist indeed, but as a professor of mineralogy, a +science which owes to him much of its improvement. + +The new School of Mines is now abolished, and practical ones are +established in the mountains, as I have before mentioned. While I am +speaking of mineralogy, I shall take you to view the + +CABINET DU CONSEIL DES MINES. + +This cabinet of mineralogy, formed at the _Hôtel des Mines_, _Rue de +l'Université_, _No. 293_, is principally intended to present a +complete collection of all the riches of the soil of the French +Republic, arranged in local order. A succession of glazed closets, +contiguous and similar to each other, that is about six feet and a +half in height by sixteen inches in depth, affords every facility of +observing them with ease and convenience. On these cases the names of +the departments are inscribed in alphabetical order, and the +vacancies which still exist in this geographical collection, are +daily filled up by specimens sent by the engineers of mines, who, +being spread over the different districts they are charged to visit, +employ themselves in recognizing carefully the mineral substances +peculiar to each country, in order to submit their views to the +government respecting the means of rendering them useful to commerce +and to the arts. + +The departmental collection, being thus arranged on the sides of the +gallery, leaves vacant the middle of the apartments, which is +furnished with tables covered with large glazed cases, intended for +receiving systematic collections, and the most remarkable mineral +substances from foreign countries, distributed in geographical order. + +An apartment is specially appropriated to the systematic order +adopted by HAÜY in his new treatise on mineralogy; another is +reserved for the method of WERNER. + +In both these oryctognostic collections, minerals of all countries +are indiscriminately admitted. They are arranged by _classes_, +_orders_, _genera_, _species_, and _varieties_, with the +denominations adopted by the author of the method, and consequently +designated by specific names in French for HAÜY'S method, and in +German for that of WERNER. The proximity of the two apartments where +they are exhibited, affords every advantage for comparing both +methods, and acquiring an exact knowledge of mineralogical synonymy. +Each of the two methods contains also a geological collection of +rocks and various aggregates, classed and named after the principles +which their respective authors have thought fit to adopt. + +The other apartments are likewise furnished with tables covered with +glazed cases, where are exhibited, in a manner very advantageous for +study, the most remarkable minerals of every description from foreign +countries, among which are: + +1. A numerous series of minerals from Russia, such as red chromate of +lead, white carbonate of lead, green phosphate of lead; native +copper, green and blue carbonate of copper; gold ore from Berezof; +iron ore, granitical rocks, fossil shells, in good preservation, from +the banks of the Moscorika, and others in the siliceous state, +jaspers, crystals of quartz, beril, &c. + +2. A collection from the iron and copper mines of Sweden, as well as +various crystals and rocks from the same country. + +3. A very complete and diversified collection of minerals from the +country of Saltzburg. + +4. Another of substances procured in England, such as fluates and +carbonates of lime from Derbyshire; pyrites, copper and lead ore, +zinc, and tin from Cornwall. + +5. A collection of tin ore, cobalt, uranite, &c. from Saxony. + +6. A series of minerals from Simplon, St. Gothard, the Tyrol, +Transylvania, as well as from Egypt and America. All these articles, +without being striking from their size, and other accessory qualities +to be remarked in costly specimens, incontestably present a rich fund +of instruction to persons delirous of fathoming science, by +multiplying the points of view under which mineral productions may be +observed. + +Such is the present state of the mineralogical collection of the +_Conseil des Mines_, which the superintendants will, no doubt, with +time and attention, bring to the highest degree of perfection. It is +open to the public every Monday and Thursday: but, on the other days +of the week, amateurs and students have access to it. + +A few years before the revolution, France was still considered as +destitute of an infinite number of mineral riches, which were thought +to belong exclusively to several of the surrounding countries. +Germany was quoted as a country particularly favoured, in this +respect, by Nature. Yet France is crossed by mountains similar to +those met with in Germany, and these mountains contain rocks of the +same species as those of that country which is so rich in minerals. +What has happened might therefore have been foreseen; namely, that, +when intelligent men, with an experienced eye, should examine the +soil of the various departments of the Republic, they would find in +it not only substances hitherto considered as scarce, but even +several of those whose existence there had not yet been suspected. +Since the revolution, the following are the + +_Principal Mineral Substances discovered in France._ + +_Dolomite_ in the mountains of Vosges and in the Pyrenees. + +_Carburet of iron_ or _plumbago_, in the south peak of Bigorre. The +same variety has been been found near Argentière, and the valley of +Chamouny, department of Mont-Blanc. + +A rock of the appearance of _porphyry_, with a _calcareous_ base, in +the same valley of Chamouny. + +_Tremolite_ or _grammatite_ of HAÜY, in the same place. These two +last-mentioned substances were in terminated crystals. + +_Red oxyd of titanium_, in the same place. + +_New violet schorl_, or _sphene_ of HAÜY, (_rayonnante en goutière_ +of SAUSSURE) in the same place. + +_Crystallized sulphate of strontia_, in the mines of Villefort in La +Lozère, in the environs of Paris, at Bartelemont, near the _Salterns_ +in the department of La Meurthe. + +_Fibrous and crystallized sulphate of strontia_, at Bouvron, near +Toul. + +_Earthy sulphate of strontia_, in the vicinity of Paris, near the +forest of Montmorency, and to the north-east of it. + +_Onyx-agate-quartz_, at Champigny, in the department of La Seine. + +_Avanturine-quartz_, in the Deux-Sevres. + +_Marine bodies_, imbedded in the soil, a little above the _Oule de +Gavernie_. + +_Anthracite_, and its direction determined in several departments. + +_Other marine bodies_, at the height of upwards of 3400 _mètres_ or +3683 yards, on the summit of Mont-Perdu, in the Upper Pyrenées. + +_Wolfram_, near St. Yriex, in Upper Vienne. + +_Oxyd of antimony_, at Allemont, in the department of L'Isère. + +_Chromate of iron_, near Gassin, in the department of _Le Var_, at +the _bastide_ of the cascade. + +_Oxyd of uranite_, at St. Simphorien de Marmagne, in the department +of La Côte d'Or. + +_Acicular arsenical lead ore_, at St. Prix, in the department of +Saone and Loire. This substance was found among some piles of +rubbish, near old works made for exploring a vein of lead ore, which +lies at the foot of a mountain to the north-east, and at three +quarters of a league from the _commune_ of St. Prix. + +In this country have likewise been found several varieties of new +interesting forms relative to substances already known; several +important geological facts have been ascertained; and, lastly, the +emerald has here been recently discovered. France already possesses +eighteen of the twenty-one metallic substances known. Few countries +inherit from Nature the like advantages. + +With respect to the administration of the mines of France, the +under-mentioned are the regulations now in force. + +A council composed of three members, is charged to give to the +Minister of the Interior ideas, together with their motives, +respecting every thing that relates to mines. It corresponds, in the +terms of the law, with all the grantees and with all persons who +explore mines, salterns, and quarries. It superintends the research +and extraction of all substances drawn from the bosom of the earth, +and their various management. It proposes the grants, permissions, +and advances to be made, and the encouragements to be given. Under +its direction are the two practical schools, and twenty-five +engineers of mines, nine of whom are spread over different parts of +the French territory. General information relative to statistics, +every thing that can concur in the formation of the mineralogical map +of France and complete the collection of her minerals, and all +observations and memoirs relative to the art of mines or of the +different branches of metallurgy, are addressed by the engineers to +the _Conseil des Mines_ at Paris. + + + +LETTER LXX. + +_Paris, February 20, 1802_. + +Having fully described to you all the theatres here of the first and +second rank, I shall confine myself to a rapid sketch of those which +may be classed in the third order.[1] + +THÉÂTRE MONTANSIER. + +This house stands at the north-west angle of the _Palais du +Tribunat_. It is of an oval form, and contains three tiers of boxes, +exclusively of a large amphitheatre. Before the revolution, it bore +the name of _Théâtre des Petits Comédiens du Comte de Beaujolais_, +and was famous for the novelty of the spectacle here given. Young +girls and boys represented little comedies and comic operas in the +following manner. Some gesticulated on the stage; while others, +placed in the side-scenes, spoke or sang their parts without being +seen. It was impossible to withhold one's admiration from the perfect +harmony between the motions of the one and the speaking and singing +of the other. In short, this double acting was executed with such +precision that few strangers detected the deception. + +To these actors succeeded full-grown performers, who have since +continued to play interludes of almost every description. Indeed, +this theatre is the receptacle of all the nonsense imaginable; +nothing is too absurd or too low for its stage. Here are collected +all the trivial expressions to be met with in this great city, +whether made use of in the markets, gaming-houses, taverns, or +dancing-rooms. + +CAROLINE and BRUNET, or BRUNET and CAROLINE. They are like two +planets, round which move a great number of satellites, some more +imperceptible than others. If to these we add TIERCELIN, an actor of +the grotesque species, little more is to be said. Were it not for +BRUNET, who makes the most of his comic humour, in playing all sorts +of low characters, and sometimes in a manner truly original, and +Mademoiselle CAROLINE, whose clear, flexible, and sonorous voice +insures the success of several little operas, the _Théâtre +Montansier_ would not be able to maintain its ground, notwithstanding +the advantages of its centrical situation, and the attractions of its +lobby, where the impures of the environs exhibit themselves to no +small advantage, and literally carry all before them. + +We now come to the theatres on the _Boulevard_, at the head of which +is to be placed + +L'AMBIGU COMIQUE. + +This little theatre is situated on the _Boulevard du Temple_, and, of +all those of the third order, has most constantly enjoyed the favour +of the public. Previously to the revolution, AUDINOT drew hither +crowded houses by the representation of comic operas and bad _drames_ +of a gigantic nature, called here _pantomimes dialoguées_. The +effects of decoration and show were carried farther at this little +theatre than at any other. Ghosts, hobgoblins, and devils were, in +the sequel, introduced. All Paris ran to see them, till the women +were terrified, and the men disgusted. + +CORSE, the present manager, has of late added considerably to the +attraction of the _Ambigu Comique_, by not only restoring it to what +it was in the most brilliant days of AUDINOT, but by collecting all +the best actors and dancers of the _Boulevard_, and improving on the +plan adopted by his predecessor. He has neglected nothing necessary +for the advantageous execution of the new pieces which he has +produced. The most attractive of these are _Victor_, _le Pélerin +blanc_, _L'Homme à trois visages_, _Le Jugement de Salomon_, &c. + +The best performers at this theatre are CORSE, the manager, TAUTIN, +and Mademoiselle LEVESQUE. + + * * * * * + +In regard to all the other minor theatres, the enumeration of which I +have detailed to you in a preceding letter,[2] I shall briefly, +observe that the curiosity of a stranger may be satisfied in paying +each of them a single visit. Some of these _petits spectacles_ are +open one day, shut the next, and soon after reopened with +performances of a different species. Therefore, to attempt a +description of their attractions would probably be superfluous; and, +indeed, the style of the pieces produced is varied according to the +ideas of the speculators, the taste of the managers, or the abilities +of the performers, who, if not "the best actors in the world," are +ready to play either "tragedy, comedy, history, pastoral, +pastoral-comical, historical-pastoral, scene individable, or poem +unlimited." + +[Footnote 1: The Theatre of the _Porte St. Martin_ not having been +open, when this letter was written, it is not here noticed. It may be +considered as of the second rank. Its representations include almost +every line of acting; but those for which the greatest expense is +incurred are melo-drames and pieces connected with pantomime and +parade. The house is the same in which the grand French opera was +performed before the revolution.] + +[Footnote 2: See Vol. i. Letter XXI.] + + + +LETTER LXXI. + +_Paris, February 22, 1802._ + +The variety of matter which crowds itself on the mind of a man who +attempts to describe this immense capital, forms such a chaos, that +you will, I trust, give me credit for the assertion, when I assure +you that it is not from neglect or inattention I sometimes take more +time than may appear strictly necessary to comply with your wishes. +Considering how deeply it involves the peace and comfort of +strangers, as well as inhabitants, I am not at all surprised at the +anxiety which you express to acquire some knowledge of the + +POLICE OF PARIS. + +In the present existing circumstances, it might be imprudent, if not +dangerous, to discuss, freely openly, so delicate a question. I shall +take a middle course. Silence would imply fear; while boldness of +expression might give offence; and though I certainly am not afraid +to mention the subject, yet to offend, is by no means my wish or +intention. In this country, the Post-Office has often been the +channel through which the opinion of individuals has been collected. +What has been, may again occur; and in such critical times, who +knows, but the government may conceive itself justified in not +considering as absolutely sacred the letters intrusted to that mode +of conveyance? Under these considerations, I shall beg leave to refer +you to a work which has gone through the hands of every inquisitive +reader; that is the _Tableau de Paris_, published in 1788: but, on +recollection, as this letter will, probably, find you in the country, +where you may not have an immediate opportunity of gratifying your +curiosity, and as the book is become scarce, I shall select from it +for your satisfaction a few extracts concerning the Police. + +This establishment is necessary and useful for maintaining order and +tranquillity in a city like Paris, where the very extremes of luxury +and wretchedness are continually in collision. I mean _useful_, when +no abuse is made of its power; and it is to be hoped that the present +government of France is too wise and too just to convert an +institution of public utility into an instrument of private +oppression. + +Since the machinery of the police was first put in order by M. +D'ARGENSON, in 1697, its wheels and springs have been continually +multiplied by the thirteen ministers who succeeded him in that +department. The last of these was the celebrated M. LENOIR. + +The present Minister of the Police, M. FOUCHÉ, has, it seems, +adopted, in a great measure, the means put in practice before the +revolution. His administration, according to general report, bears +most resemblance to that of M. LENOIR: he is said, however, to have +improved on that vigilant magistrate: but he surpasses him, I am +told, more in augmentation of expenses and agents, than in real +changes.[1] + +In selecting from the before-mentioned work the following _widely +scattered_ passages, and assembling them as a _piece of Mosaic_, it +has been my endeavour to enable you to form an impartial judgment of +the police of Paris, by exhibiting it with all its perfections and +imperfections. Borrowing the language of MERCIER, I shall trace the +institution through all its ramifications, and, in pointing out its +effects, I shall "nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." + +If we take it for granted, that the police of Paris is now exercised +on the same plan as that pursued towards the close of the old +_régime_, this sketch will be the more interesting, as its +resemblance to the original will exempt me from adding a single +stroke from my own pencil. + +"D'ARGENSON was severe," says MERCIER, "perhaps because he felt, in +first setting the machine in motion, a resistance which his +successors have less experienced. For a long time it was imagined +that a Minister of Police ought to be harsh; he ought to be firm +only. Several of these magistrates have laid on too heavy a hand, +because they were not acquainted with the people of Paris; a people +of quick feeling, but not ferocious[2], whose motions are to be +divined, and consequently easy to be led. Whoever should be void of +pity in that post, would be a monster." + +MERCIER then gives the fragment by FONTENELLE, on the police of Paris +and on M. D'ARGENSON, of which I shall select only what may be +necessary for elucidating the main subject. + +"The inhabitants of a well-governed city," says FONTENELLE, "enjoy +the good order which is there established, without considering what +trouble it costs those who establish or preserve it, much in the same +manner as all mankind enjoy the regularity of the motions of +celestial bodies, without having any knowledge of them, and even the +more the good order of a police resembles by its uniformity that of +the celestial bodies, the more is it imperceptible, and, +consequently, the more it is unknown, the greater is its perfection. +But he who would wish to know it and fathom it, would be terrified. +To keep up perpetually in a city, like Paris, an immense consumption, +some sources of which may always be dried up by a variety of +accidents; to repress the tyranny of shop-keepers in regard to the +public, and at the same time animate their commerce; to prevent the +mutual usurpations of the one over the other, often difficult to +discriminate; to distinguish in a vast crowd all those who may easily +conceal there a hurtful industry; to purge society of them, or +tolerate them only as far as they can be useful to it by employments +which no others but themselves would undertake, or discharge so well; +to keep necessary abuses within the precise limits of necessity which +they are always ready to over-leap; to envelop them in the obscurity +to which they ought to be condemned, and not even draw them from it +by chastisement too notorious; to be ignorant of what it is better to +be ignorant of than to punish, and to punish but seldom and usefully; +to penetrate by subterraneous avenues into the bosom of families, and +keep for them the secrets which they have not confided, as long as it +is not necessary to make use of them; to be present every where +without being seen; in short, to move or stop at pleasure an immense +multitude, and be the soul ever-acting, and almost unknown, of this +great body: these are, in general, the functions of the chief +magistrate of the police. It should seem that one man alone could not +be equal to them, either on account of the quantity of things of +which he must be informed, or of that of the views which he must +follow, or of the application which he must exert, or of the variety +of conduct which he most observe, and of the characters which he must +assume: but the public voice will answer whether M. D'ARGENSON has +been equal to them. + +"Under him, cleanliness, tranquillity, plenty, and safety were +brought to the highest degree of perfection in this city. And, +indeed, the late king (Lewis XIV) relied entirely on his care +respecting Paris. He could have given an account of a person unknown +who should have stolen into it in the dark; this person, whatever +ingenuity he exerted in concealing himself, was always under his eye; +and if, at last, any one escaped him, at least what produced almost +the same effect, no one would have dared to think himself +well-concealed. + +"Surrounded and overwhelmed in his audiences by a crowd of people +chiefly of the lower class, little informed themselves of what +brought them, warmly agitated by interests very trifling, and +frequently very ill understood, accustomed to supply the place of +discourse by senseless clamour, he neither betrayed the inattention +nor the disdain which such persons or such subjects might have +occasioned." + +"FONTENELLE has not," continues MERCIER, "spoken of the severity of +M. D'ARGENSON, of his inclination to punish, which was rather a sign +of weakness than of strength. Alas! human laws, imperfect and rude, +cannot dive to the bottom of the human heart, and there discover the +causes of the delinquencies which they have to punish! They judge +only from the surface: they would acquit, perhaps, those whom they +condemn; they would strike him whom they suffer to escape. But they +cannot, I confess, do otherwise. Nevertheless, they ought to neglect +nothing that serves to disclose the heart of man. They ought to +estimate the strength of natural and indestructible passions, not in +their effects, but in their principles; to pay attention to the age, +the sex, the time, the day; these are nice rules, which could not be +found in the brain of the legislator, but which ought to be met with +in that of a Minister of the Police." + +"There are also epidemical errors in which the multitude of those who +go astray, seems to lessen the fault; in which a sort of +circumspection is necessary, in order that punishment may not be in +opposition to public interest, because punishment would then appear +absurd or barbarous, and indignation might recoil on the law, as well +as on the magistrate." + +"What a life has a Minister of Police! He has not a moment that he +can call his own; he is every day obliged to punish; he is afraid to +give way to indulgence, because he does not know that he may not one +day have to reproach himself with it. He is under the necessity of +being severe, and of acting contrary to the inclination of his heart; +not a crime is committed but he receives the shameful or cruel +account: he hears of nothing but vicious men and vices; every instant +he is told: 'there's a murder! a suicide! a rape!' Not an accident +happens but he must prescribe the remedy, and hastily; he has but a +moment to deliberate and act, and he must be equally fearful to abuse +the power intrusted to him, and not to use it opportunely. Popular +rumours, flighty conversations, theatrical factions, false alarms, +every thing concerns him. + +"Is he gone to rest? A fire rouses him from his bed. He must be +answerable for every thing; he must trace the robber, and the lurking +assassin who has committed a crime; for the magistrate appears +blameable, if he has not found means to deliver him up quickly to +justice. The time that his agents have employed in this capture will +be calculated, and his honour requires that the interval between the +crime and the imprisonment should be the shortest possible. What +dreadful duties! What a laborious life! And yet this place is +coveted! + +"On some occasions, it is necessary for the Minister of Police to +demean himself like a true _Greek_, as was the case in the following +instance: + +"A person, being on the point of making a journey, had in his +possession a sum of twenty thousand livres which embarrassed him; he +had only one servant, whom he mistrusted, and the sum was tempting. +He accordingly requested a friend to be so obliging as to take care +of it for him till his return. + +"A fortnight after, the friend denied the circumstance. As there was +no proof, the civil law could not pronounce in this affair. Recourse +was had to the Minister of Police, who pondered a moment, and sent +for the receiver, making the accuser retire into an adjoining room: + +"The friend arrives, and maintains that he has not received the +twenty thousand livres. 'Well,' said the magistrate, 'I believe you; +and as you are innocent you run no, risk in writing to your wife the +note that I am going to dictate. Write. + +"'"My dear wife, all is discovered. I shall be punished if I do not +restore you know what. Bring the sum: your coming quickly to my +relief is the only way for me to get out of trouble and obtain my +pardon." + +"'This note,' added the magistrate, 'will fully justify you. Your +wife can bring nothing since you have received nothing, and your +accuser will be foiled.' + +"The note was dispatched; the wife, terrified, ran with the twenty +thousand livres. + +"Thus the Minister of Police can daily make up for the imperfection +and tardiness of our civil laws; but he ought to use this rare and +splendid privilege with extreme circumspection. + +"The chief magistrate of the police is become a minister of +importance; he has a secret and prodigious influence; he knows so +many things, that he can do much mischief or much good, because he +has in hand a multitude of threads which he can entangle or +disentangle at his pleasure; he strikes or he saves; he spreads +darkness or light: his authority is as delicate as it is extensive. + +"The Minister of Police exercises a despotic sway over the +_mouchards_ who are found disobedient, or who make false reports: as +for these fellows, they are of a class so vile and so base, that the +authority to which they have sold themselves, has necessarily an +absolute right over their persons. + +"This is not the case with those who are apprehended in the name of +the police; they may have committed trifling faults: they may have +enemies in that crowd of _exempts_, spies, and satellites, who are +believed on their word. The eye of the magistrate may be incessantly +deceived, and the punishment of these crimes ought to be submitted to +a more deliberate investigation; but the house of correction ingulfs +a vast number of men who there become still more perverted, and who, +on coming out, are still more wicked than when they went in. Being +degraded in their own eyes, they afterwards plunge themselves +headlong into all sorts of irregularities. + +"These different imprisonments are sometimes rendered necessary by +imperious circumstances; yet it were always to be wished that the +detention of a citizen should not depend on a single magistrate, but +that there should be a sort of tribunal to examine when this great +act of authority, withdrawn from the eye of the law, ceases to be +illegal. + +"A few real advantages compensate for these irregular forms, and +there are, in fact, an infinite number of irregularities which the +slow and grave process of our tribunals can neither take cognizance +of, nor put a stop to, nor foresee, nor punish. The audacious or +subtle delinquent would triumph in the winding labyrinth of our civil +laws. The laws of the police, more direct, watch him, press him, and +surround him mose closely. The abuse, is contiguous to the benefit, I +admit; but a great many private acts of violence, base and shameful +crimes, are repressed by this vigilant and active force which ought, +nevertheless, to publish its code and submit it to the inspection of +enlightened citizens." + +"Could the Minister of Police communicate to the philosopher all he +knows, all he learns, all he sees, and likewise impart to him certain +secret things, of which he alone is well-informed, there would be +nothing so curious and so instructive under the pen of the +philosopher; for he would astonish all his brethren. But this +magistrate is like the great penitentiary; he hears every thing, +relates nothing, and is not astonished at certain delinquencies in +the same degree as another man. By dint of seeing the tricks of +roguery, the crimes of vice, secret treachery, and all the filth of +human actions, he has necessarily a little difficulty in giving +credit to the integrity and virtue of honest people. He is in a +perpetual state of mistrust; and, in the main, he ought to possess +such a character; for, he ought to think nothing impossible, after +the extraordinary lessons which he receives from men and from things. +In a word, his place commands a continual, and scrutinizing +suspicion." + + * * * * * + +_February 22, in continuation._ + +"Even should not the Parisian have the levity with which he is +reproached, reason would justify him in its adoption. He walks +surrounded by spies. No sooner do two citizens whisper to each other, +than up comes a third, who prowls about in order to listen to what +they are saying. The spies of the police are a regiment of +inquisitive fellows; with this difference, that each individual +belonging to this regiment has a distinct dress, which he changes +frequently every day; and nothing so quick or so astonishing, as +these sorts of metamorphoses. + +"The same spy who figures as a private gentleman in the morning, in +the evening represents a priest: at one time, he is a peaceable limb +of the law; at another, a swaggering bully. The next day, with a +gold-headed cane in his hand, he will assume the deportment of a +monied man buried in calculations; the most singular disguises are +quite familiar to him. In the course of the twenty-four hours, he is +an officer of distinction and a journeyman hair-dresser, a shorn +apostle and a scullion. He visits the dress-ball and the lowest sink +of vice. At one time with a diamond ring on his finger, at another +with the most filthy wig on his head, he almost changes his +countenance as he does his apparel; and more than one of these +_mouchards_ would teach the French _Roscius_ the art of _decomposing_ +himself; he is all eyes, all ears, all legs; for he trots, I know not +how, over the pavement of every quarter of the town. Squatted +sometimes in the corner of a coffee-room, you would take him for a +dull, stupid, tiresome fellow, snoring till supper is ready: he has +seen and heard all that has passed. At another time, he is an orator, +and been the first to make a bold speech; he courts you to open your +mind; he interprets even your silence, and whether you speak to him +or not, he knows what you think of this or that proceeding. + +"Such is the universal instrument employed in Paris for diving into +secrets; and this is what determines the actions of persons in power +more willingly than any thing that could be imagined in reasoning or +politics. + +"The employment of spies has destroyed the ties of confidence and +friendship. None but frivolous questions are agitated, and the +government dictates, as it were, to citizens the subject on which +they shall speak in the evening in coffee-houses, as well as in +private circles. + +"The people have absolutely lost every idea of civil or political +administration; and if any thing could excite laughter in the midst +of an ignorance so deplorable, it would be the conversation of such a +silly fellow who constantly imagines that Paris must give the law and +the _ton_ to all Europe, and thence to all the world. + +"The men belonging to the police are a mass of corruption which the +Minister of that department divides into two parts: of the one, he +makes spies or _mouchards_; of the other, satellites, _exempts_, that +is, officers, whom he afterwards lets loose against pickpockets, +swindlers, thieves, &c., much in the same manner as a huntsman sets +hounds on wolves and foxes. + +"The spies have other spies at their heels, who watch over them, and +see that they do their duty. They all accuse each other reciprocally, +and worry one another for the vilest gain." + +I cannot here avoid interrupting my copious but laboriously-gathered +selection from MERCIER, to relate an anecdote which shews in what a +detestable light _mouchards_ are considered in Paris. + +A man who appeared to be in tolerably good circumstances, fell in +love, and married a girl whom the death of her parents and +accumulated distress had driven to a life of dissipation. At the end +of a few months, she learnt that her husband was a spy of the police. +"Probably," said, she to him, "you did not take up this trade till +after you had reflected that in following that of a thief or a +murderer, you would have risked your life." On saying this, she ran +out of the house, and precipitated herself from the _Pont Royal_ into +the Seine, where she was drowned.--But to resume the observations of +MERCIER. + +"It is from these odious dregs," continues our author, "that public +order arises. + +"When the _mouchards_ of the police have acted contrary to their +instructions, they are confined in the house of correction; but they +are separated from the other prisoners, because they would be torn to +pieces by those whom they have caused to be imprisoned, and who would +recognize them. They inspire less pity on account of the vile trade +which they follow. One sees with surprise, and with still more pain, +that these fellows are very young. Spies, informers at sixteen!--O! +what a shocking life does this announce!" exclaims MERCIER. "No; +nothing ever distressed me more than to see boys act such a part.... +And those who form them into squads, who drill them, who corrupt such +inexperienced youth!" + +Such is the admirable order which reigns in Paris, that a man +suspected or described is watched so closely, that his smallest steps +are known, till the very moment when it is expedient to apprehend +him. + +"The description taken of the man is a real portrait, which it is +impossible to mistake; and the art of thus describing the person by +words, is carried to so great a nicety, that the best writer, after +much reflection on the matter, could add nothing to it, nor make use +of other expressions. + +"The Theseuses of the police are on foot every night to purge the +city of robbers, and it might be said that the lions, bears, and +tigers are chained by political order. + +"There are also the court-spies, the town-spies, the bed-spies, the +street-spies, the spies of impures, and the spies of wits: they are +all called by the name of _mouchards_, the family name of the first +spy employed by the court of France. + +"Men of fashion at this day follow the trade of _mouchards_; most of +them style themselves _Monsieur le Baron_, _Monsieur le Comte_, +_Monsieur le Marquis_. There was a time, under Lewis XV, when spies +were so numerous, that it was impossible for friends, who assembled +together, to open their heart to each other concerning matters which +deeply affected their interest. The ministerial inquisition had +posted its sentinels at the door of every room, and listeners in +every closet. Ingenuous confidences, made from friends to friends, +and intended to die in the very bosom where they had been deposited, +were punished as dangerous conspiracies. + +"These odious researches poisoned social life, deprived men of +pleasures the most innocent, and transformed citizens into enemies +who trembled to unbosom themselves to each other. + +"One fourth of the servants in Paris serve as spies; and the secrets +of families, which are thought the most concealed, come to the +knowledge of those interested in being acquainted with them. + +"Independently of the spies of the police, ministers have spies +belonging to themselves, and keep them in pay: these are the most +dangerous of all, because they are less suspected than others, and it +is more difficult to know them. By these means, ministers know what +is said of them; yet, of this they avail themselves but little. They +are more intent to ruin their enemies, and thwart their adversaries, +than to derive a prudent advantage from the free and ingenuous hints +given them by the multitude. + +"It is entertaining enough to consider that, in proper time and +place, spies are watching him who, at his pleasure, sets spies to +watch other citizens. Thus, the links which connect mankind in +political order are really incomprehensible. He who does not admire +the manner in which society exists, and is supported by the +simultaneous reaction of its members, and who sees not the serpent's +_tail_ entering its _mouth_, is not born for reflection. + +"But the secrets of courts are not revealed through spies; they get +wind by means of certain people who are not in the least mistrusted; +in like manner the best built ships leak through an imperceptible +chink, which cannot be discovered. + +"What is interesting in courts, and particularly so in ours," says +MERCIER, "is that there is a degree of obscurity spread over all its +proceedings. We wish to penetrate what is concealed, we endeavour to +know till we learn; thus it is that the most ingenious machine +preserves its highest value only till we have seen the springs which +set it in motion. + +"After having considered the different parts which form the police of +the capital, we still perceive all the radii reaching from the centre +to the circumference. How many ramifications issue from the same +stem! How far the branches extend! What an impulse does not Paris +give to other neighbouring cities! + +"The police of Paris has an intimate correspondence with that of +Lyons and other provincial cities: for it is evident that it would be +imperfect, if it could not follow the disturber of public order, and +if the distance of a few leagues skreened him from researches. + +"The correspondence of the Parisian police is not therefore limited +to its walls; it extends much farther; and it is in towns where +imprudent or rash persons would imagine that they might give their +tongue greater freedom, that the vigilant magistrate pries into +conversation, and keeps a watchful eye over those who would measure +their audacity by the degree of distance from the capital. + +"Thus the police of Paris, after having embraced France, penetrates +also into Switzerland, Italy, Holland, and Germany;[3] and when +occasion requires, its eye is open on all sides to what can interest +the government. When it wishes to know any fact, it is informed of it +to a certainty; when it wishes to strike a serious blow, it seldom +misses its aim. + +"It may easily be conceived that the machine would be incomplete, and +that its play would fail in the desired effect, did it not embrace a +certain extent. It costs but little to give to the lever the +necessary length. Whether the spy be kept in pay at Paris, or a +hundred leagues off, the expense is the same, and the utility becomes +greater. + +"Experience has shewn that these observations admit of essential +differences in the branches of the police. Weights and measures must +be changed, according to time, place, persons, and circumstances. +There are no fixed rules; they must be created at the instant, and +the most versatile actions are not destitute of wisdom and reason. + +"Of this wholesale legislators are not aware: it is reserved for +practitioners to seize these shades of distinction. There must be a +customary, and, as it were, every-day policy, in order to decide well +without precipitation, without weakness, and without rigour. What +would be a serious fault at Paris, would be a simple imprudence at +Lyons, an indifferent thing elsewhere, and so on reciprocally. + +"Now this science has not only its details and its niceties, it has +also its variations, and sometimes even its oppositions. Ministers +must have a steady eye and great local experience, in order to be +able to strike true, and strike opportunely, without espousing +imaginary terrors; which, in matters of police, is the greatest fault +that can be committed.[4] + +"LYCURGUS, SOLON, LOCKE, and PENN! you have made very fine and +majestic laws; but would you have divined these? Although secret, +they exist; they have their wisdom, and even their depth. The +distance of a few leagues gives to matters of police two colours, +which bear to each other no resemblance; and there is no principal +town which is not obliged, in modeling its police on that of Paris, +to introduce into it the greatest modifications. The motto of every +Minister of Police ought to be this: _The letter of the law kills, +its spirit gives life._ + +"The safety of Paris, during the night, is owing to the guard[5] and +two or three hundred _mouchards_, who trot about the streets, and +recognize and follow suspected persons. It is chiefly by night that +the police makes its captions." + +The manner in which these captions are made is humorously, gravely, +feelingly, and philosophically described by the ingenious MERCIER. +Long as this letter already is, I am confident that you will not +regret its being still lengthened by another extract or two relative +to this interesting point; thus I shall terminate the only +elucidation that you are likely to obtain on a subject which has so +strongly excited your curiosity. + +"The comic," says our lively author, "is here blended with the +serious. The fulminating order, which is going to crush you, is in +the pocket of the _exempt_, who feels a degree of pleasure in the +exercise of his dreadful functions. He enjoys a secret pride in being +bearer of the thunder; he fancies himself the eagle of Jove: but his +motion is like that of a serpent. He glides along, dodges you, +crouches before you, approaches your ear, and with down-cast eyes and +a soft-toned voice, says to you, at the same time shrugging his +shoulders: '_Je suis au désespoir, Monsieur; mais j'ai un ordre, +Monsieur, qui vous arrête, Monsieur; de la part de la police, +Monsieur_.'----'_Moi, Monsieur_?'----'_Vous-même, Monsieur_.'----You +waver an instant between anger and indignation, ready to vent all +sorts of imprecations. You see only a polite, respectful, well-bred +man, bowing to you, mild in his speech, and civil in his manners. +Were you the most furious of mankind, your wrath would be instantly +disarmed. Had you pistols, you would discharge them in the air, and +never against the affable _exempt_. Presently you return him his +bows: there even arises between you a contest of politeness and good +breeding. It is a reciprocity of obliging words and compliments, till +the moment when the resounding bolts separate you from the polite +man, who goes to make a report of his mission, and whose employment, +by no means an unprofitable one, is to imprison people with all +possible gentleness, urbanity, and grace. + +"I am walking quietly in the street; before me is a young man +decently dressed. All at once four fellows seize on him, collar him, +push him against the wall, and drag him away. Natural instinct +commands me to go to his assistance; a tranquil witness says to me +coolly: 'Don't interfere; 'tis nothing, sir, but a caption made by +the police.' The young man is handcuffed, and he disappears. + +"I wish to enter a narrow street, a man belonging to the guard is +posted there as a sentinel: I perceive several of the populace +looking out of the windows. 'What's the matter, sir?' say I.---- +'Nothing,' replies he; 'they are only taking up thirty girls of the +town at one cast of the net.' Presently the girls, with top-knots of +all colours, file off, led by the soldiers of the guard, who lead +them gallantly by the hand, with their muskets clubbed. + +"It is eleven o'clock at night, or five in the morning, there is a +knock at your door; your servant opens it; in a moment your room is +filled with a squad of satellites. The order is precise, resistance +is vain; every thing that might serve as a weapon is put out of your +reach; and the _exempt_, who will not, on that account, boast the +less of his bravery even takes your brass pocket-inkstand for a +pistol. + +"The next day, a neighbour, who has heard a noise in the house, asks +what it might be: 'Nothing, 'tis only a man taken up by the police.' +----'What has he done?'----'No one can tell; he has, perhaps, +committed a murder, or sold a suspicious pamphlet.'----'But, sir, +there's some difference between those two crimes.'----'May be so; but +he is carried off.' + +"You have been apprehended; but you have not been shewn the order; +you have been put into a carriage closely shut up; you know not +whither you are going to be taken; but you may be certain that you +will visit the wards or dungeons of some prison. + +"Whence proceeds the decree of proscription? You cannot rightly +guess. + +"It is not necessary to write a thick volume against arbitrary +arrests. When one has said, _it is an arbitrary act_, one may, +without any difficulty, infer every possible consequence. But all +captions are not equally unjust: there are a multitude of secret and +dangerous crimes which it would be impossible for the ordinary course +of the law to take cognizance of, to put a stop to, and punish. When +the minister is neither seduced nor deceived, when he yields not to +private passion, to blind prepossession, to misplaced severity, his +object is frequently to get rid of a disturber of the public peace; +and the police, in the manner in which the machine is set up, could +not proceed, at the present day, without this quick, active, and +repressive power. + +"It were only to be wished that there should be afterwards a +particular tribunal, which should weigh in an exact scale the motives +of each caption, in order that imprudence and guilt, the pen and the +poniard, the book and the libel, might not be confounded. + +"The inspectors of police determine on their part a great many +subaltern captions; as they are generally believed on their word, and +as they strike only the lowest class of the people, the chief readily +concedes to them the details of this authority. + +"Some yield to their peevishness; others, to their caprice: but who +knows whether avarice has not also a share in their proceedings, and +whether they do not often favour him who pays at the expense of him +who does not pay? Thus the liberty of the distressed and lowest +citizens would have a tarif; and this strange tax would bear hard on +the very numerous portion of _prostitutes_, _professed gamblers_, +_quacks_, _hawkers_, _swindlers_, and _adventurers_, all people who +do mischief, and whom it is necessary to punish; but who do more +mischief when they are obliged to pay, and purchase, during a certain +time, the privilege of their irregularities. + +"We have imitated from the English their Vauxhall, their Ranelagh, +their whist, their punch, their hats, their horse-races, their +jockies, their betting; but," concludes MERCIER, "when shall we copy +from them something more important, for instance, that bulwark of +liberty, the law of _habeas corpus_?" + +[Footnote 1: The office of Minister of the Police has since been +abolished. M. FOUCHÉ is now a Senator, and the machine of which he +was said to be so expert a manager, is confided to the direction of +the Prefect of Police, who exercises his functions under the +immediate authority of the Ministers, and corresponds with them +concerning matters which relate to their respective departments. The +higher duties of the Police are at present vested in the _Grand +Juge_, who is also Minister of Justice. The former office is of +recent creation.] + +[Footnote 2: Voltaire thought otherwise; and he was not mistaken.] + +[Footnote 3: I shall exemplify this truth by two remarkable facts. +About the year 1775, when M. DE SARTINE was Minister of the Police, +several forgeries were committed on the Bank of Vienna; Count DE +MERCY, then Austrian ambassador at Paris, was directed to make a +formal application for the delinquent to be delivered up to justice. +What was his astonishment on receiving, a few hours after, a note +from M. DE SARTINE, informing him that the author of the said +forgeries had never been in Paris; but resided in Vienna, at the same +time mentioning the street, the number of the house, and other +interesting particulars! + +A circumstance which occurred in 1796, proves that, since the +revolution, the system of the Parisian police continues to extend to +foreign countries. The English Commissary for prisoners of war was +requested by a friend to make inquiry, on his arrival in Paris, +whether a French lady of the name of BEAUFORT was living, and in what +part of France she resided. He did so; and the following day, the +card, on which he had written the lady's name, was returned to him, +with this addition: "She lives at No. 47, East-street, +Manchester-square, London."] + +[Footnote 4: The same principle holds good in politics.] + +[Footnote 5: The municipal guard of Paris at present consists of 2334 +men. The privates must be above 30 and under 45 years of age.] + + + +LETTER LXXII. + +_Paris, February 26, 1802._ + +Referring to an expression made use of in my letter of the 16th of +December last,[1] you ask me "What the sciences, or rather the +_savans_ or men of science, have done for this people?" With the +assistance of a young Professor in the _Collège de France_, who bids +fair to eclipse all his competitors, it will not be difficult for me +to answer your question. + +Let me premise, however, that the _savans_ to whom I allude, must not +be confounded with the philosophers, called _Encyclopædists_, from +their having been the first to conceive and execute the plan of the +_Encyclopædia_. These _savans_ were DIDEROT, D'ALEMBERT, and +VOLTAIRE, all professed atheists, who, by the dissemination of their +pernicious doctrine, introduced into France an absolute contempt for +all religion. This infidelity, dissolving every social tie, every +principle between man and man, between the governing and the +governed, in the sequel, produced anarchy, rapine, and all their +attendant horrors. + +At the beginning of the revolution, every mind being turned towards +politics, the Sciences were suddenly abandoned: they could have no +weight in the struggle which then occupied every imagination. +Presently their existence was completely forgotten. Liberty formed +the subject of every writing and every discourse: it seemed that +orators alone possessed the power of serving her; and this error was +partly the cause of the calamities which afterwards overwhelmed +France. The greater part of the _savans_ remained simple spectators +of the events which were preparing: not one of them openly took part +against the revolution. Some involved themselves in it. Those men +were urged by great views, and hoped to find, in the renewal of +social organization, a mean of applying and realizing their theories. +They thought to master the revolution, and were carried away by its +torrent; but at that time the most sanguine hopes were indulged. If +the love of liberty be no more than a phantom of the brain, if the +wish to render men better and happier be no more than a matter of +doubt, such errors may be pardoned in those who have paid for them +with their life. + +It is in the recollection of every one that the National Convention +consisted of two parties, which, under the same exterior, were +hastening to contrary ends: the one, composed of ignorant and +ferocious men, ruled by force; the other, more enlightened, +maintained its ground by address. The former, restless possessors of +absolute power, and determined to grasp at every thing for preserving +it, strove to annihilate the talents and knowledge which made them +sensible of their humiliating inferiority. The others, holding the +same language, acted in an opposite direction. But being obliged, in +order to preserve their influence, never to shew themselves openly, +they employed their means with an extreme reserve, and this +similarity at once explains the good they did, the evil they +prevented, and the calamities which they were unable to avert. + +At that time, France was on the very brink of ruin. _Landrecies_, _Le +Quesnoy_, _Condé_ and _Valenciennes_ were in the power of her +enemies. _Toulon_ had been given up to the English, whose numerous +fleets held the dominion of the seas, and occasionally effected +debarkations. This country was a prey to famine and terror; _La +Vendée_, _Lyons_, and _Marseilles_ were in a state of insurrection. +No arms, no powder; no ally that could or would furnish any; and its +only resource lay in an anarchical government without either plan or +means of defence, and skilful only in persecution. In a word, every +thing announced that the Republic would perish, before it could enjoy +a year's existence. + +In this extremity, two new members were called to the Committee of +Public Welfare. These two men organized the armies, conceived plans +of campaign, and prepared supplies. + +It was necessary to arm nine hundred thousand men; and what was most +difficult, it was necessary to persuade a mistrustful people, ever +ready to cry out "treason!" of the possibility of such a prodigy. For +this purpose, the old manufactories were comparatively nothing; +several of them, situated on the frontiers, were invaded by the +enemy. They were revived every where with an activity till then +unexampled. _Savans_ or men of science were charged to describe and +simplify the necessary proceedings. The melting of the church-bells +yielded all the necessary metal.[2] Steel was wanting; none could be +obtained from abroad, the art of making it was unknown. The _Savans_ +were asked to create it; they succeeded, and this part of the public +defence thus became independent of foreign countries. + +The exigencies of the war had rendered more glaring the urgent +necessity of having good topographical maps, and the insufficiency of +those in use became every day more evident. The geographical +engineers, which corps had been suppressed by the Constituent +Assembly, were recalled to the armies, and although they could not, +in these first moments, give to their labours the necessary extent +and detail, they nevertheless paved the way to the great results +since obtained in this branch of the art military. Nothing is more +easy than to destroy; nothing is so difficult, and, above all, so +tedious as to reconstruct. + +The persons then in power had likewise had the prudence to preserve +in their functions such pupils and engineers in the civil line as +were of an age to come under the requisition. Whatever might be the +want of defenders, it was felt that it requires ten years' study to +form an engineer; while health and courage suffice for making a +soldier. This disastrous period affords instances of foresight and +skill which have not always been imitated in times more tranquil. + +The Sciences had just rendered great services to the country. They +were calumniated; those who had made use of them were compelled to +defend them, and did so with courage. A circumstance, equally +singular and unforeseen, occasioned complete recourse to be had to +their assistance. + +An officer arrived at the Committee of Public Welfare: he announced +that the republican armies were in presence of the enemy; but that +the French generals durst not march their soldiers to battle, because +the brandies were poisoned, and that the sick in the hospitals, +having drunk some, had died. He requested the Committee to cause them +to be examined, asked for orders on this subject, and wished to set +off again immediately. + +The most skilful chymists were instantly assembled: they were ordered +to analyze the brandies, and to indicate, in the course of the day, +the poison and the remedy. + +These _savans_ laboured without intermission, trusting only to +themselves for the most minute details. Scarcely was time allowed +them to finish their operations, when they were summoned to appear +before the Committee of Public Welfare, over which ROBESPIERRE +presided. + +They announced that the brandies were not poisoned, and that water +only had been added to them, in which was slate in suspension, so +that it was sufficient to filter them, in order to deprive them of +their hurtful quality. + +ROBESPIERRE, who hoped to discover a treason, asked the Commissioners +if they were perfectly sure of what they had just advanced. As a +satisfactory answer to the question, one of them took a strainer, +poured the liquor through it, and drank it without hesitation. All +the others followed his example. "What!" said ROBESPIERRE to him, "do +you dare to drink these poisoned brandies?"----"I durst do much +more," answered he, "when I put my name to the Report." + +This service, though in itself of little importance, impressed the +public mind with a conception of the utility of the _savans_, a +greater number of whom were called into the Committee of Public +Welfare. There they were secure from subaltern informers, with which +France abounded. Having concerns only with the members charged with +the military department, who were endeavouring to save them, they +might, by keeping silence, escape the suspicious looks of the tyrants +of the day. There was then but one resource for men of merit and +virtue, namely, to conceal their existence, and cause themselves to +be forgotten. + +In the midst of this sanguinary persecution, all the means of defence +employed by France, issued from the obscure retreat where the genius +of the Sciences had taken refuge. + +Powder was the article for which there was the most urgent occasion. +The soldiers were on the point of wanting it. The magazines were +empty. The administrators of the powder-mills were assembled to know +what they could do. They declared that the annual produce amounted to +three millions of pounds only, that the basis of it was saltpetre +drawn from India, that extraordinary encouragements might raise them +to five millions; but that no hopes ought to be entertained of +exceeding that quantity. When the members of the Committee of Public +Welfare announced to the administrators that they must manufacture +seventeen millions of pounds of powder in the space of a few months, +the latter remained stupified. "If you succeed in doing this," said +they, "you must have a method of making powder of which we are +ignorant." + +This, however, was the only mean of saving the country. As the French +were almost excluded from the sea, it was impossible to think of +procuring saltpetre from India. The _savans_ offered to extract all +from the soil of the Republic. A general requisition called to this +labour the whole mass of the people. Short and simple directions, +spread with inconceivable activity, made, of a difficult art, a +common process. All the abodes of men and animals were explored. +Saltpetre was sought for even in the ruins of Lyons; and soda, +collected from among the ashes of the forests of La Vendée. + +The results of this grand movement would have been useless, had not +the Sciences been seconded by new efforts. Native saltpetre is not +fit for making powder; it is mixed with salts and earths which render +it moist, and diminish its activity. The process employed for +purifying it demanded considerable time. The construction of +powder-mills alone would have required several months, and before +that period, France might have been subjugated. Chymistry invented +new methods for refining and drying saltpetre in a few days. As a +substitute for mills, pulverized charcoal, sulphur, and saltpetre +were mixed, with copper balls, in casks which were turned round by +hand. By these means, powder was made in twelve hours; and thus was +verified that bold assertion of a member of the Committee of Public +Welfare: "Earth impregnated with saltpetre shall be produced," said +he, "and, in five days after, your cannon shall be loaded." + +Circumstances were favourable for fixing, in all their perfection, +the only arts which occupied France. Persons from all the departments +were sent to Paris, in order to be instructed in the manufacture of +arms and saltpetre. Rapid courses of lectures were given on this +subject. They contributed little to the general movement, which had +saved the Republic, but they had an effect no less important, that of +bringing to light the astonishing facility of the French for +acquiring the arts and sciences; a happy gift which forms one of the +finest features in the character of the nation. + +Notwithstanding so many services rendered by the Sciences, the +learned were not less persecuted; the most celebrated among them were +the most exposed. The venerable DAUBENTON, the co-operator in the +labours of BUFFON, escaped persecution only because he had written a +work on the improvement of sheep, and was taken for a simple +shepherd. COUSIN was not so fortunate; yet, in his confinement, he +had the stoicism to compose works of geometry, and give lessons of +physics to his companions of misfortune. + +LAVOISIER, that immortal character, whose generosity in promoting the +progress of science could be equalled only by his own enlightened +example in cultivating it, was also apprehended. As one of the +Commissioners for fixing the standard of weights and measures, great +hopes were entertained that he might be restored to liberty. Measures +were taken with that intention; but these were not suited to the +spirit of the moment. The commission was dissolved, and LAVOISIER +left in prison. Shortly after, this ever to be lamented _savant_ was +taken to the scaffold. He would still be living, had his friends +acted on the cupidity of the tyrants who then governed, instead of +appealing to their justice. + +About this period, some members of the Convention having introduced a +discussion in favour of public instruction, it was strongly opposed +by the revolutionary party, who saw in the Sciences nothing but a +poison which enervated republics. According to them, the finest +schools were the popular societies. To do good was then impossible, +and to shew an inclination to do it, exposed to the greatest danger +the small number of enlightened men France still possessed. + +In this point of view, every thing was done that circumstances +permitted. A military school was created, where young men from all +the departments were habituated to the exercise of arms and the life +of a camp. It was called _L'École de Mars_. Its object was not to +form officers, but intelligent soldiers, who, spread in the French +armies, should soon render them the most enlightened of Europe, as +they were already the most inured to the hardships of war. + +Thus, a small number of men, whose conduct has been too ill +appreciated, alone retarded, by constant efforts, the progress of +barbarism and struggled in a thousand ways against the oppression +which others contented themselves with supporting. + +At length, the bloody throne, raised by ROBESPIERRE, was overthrown: +hope succeeded to terror; and victory, to defeat. Then, the Sciences, +issuing from the focus in which they had been concentered and +concealed, reappeared in all their lustre. The services they had +rendered, the dangers which had threatened them, were felt and +acknowledged. The plan of campaign, formed by the scientific men, +called to the Committee of Public Welfare, had completely succeeded. +The French armies had advanced on the rear of those of the allies, +and, threatening to cut off their retreat, not only forced them to +abandon the places they had taken, but also marched from conquest to +conquest on their territory. + +The means of having iron, steel, saltpetre, powder, and arms, had +been created during the reign of terror. The following were the +results of this grand movement at the beginning of the third year of +the Republic. + +Twelve millions of pounds of saltpetre extracted from the soil of +France in the space of nine months. Formerly, scarcely one million +was drawn from it. + +Fifteen founderies at work for the casting of brass cannon. Their +annual produce increased to 7000 pieces. There existed in France but +two establishments of this description before the revolution. + +Thirty founderies for iron ordnance, yielding 13,000 pieces per year. +At the breaking out of the war, there were but four, which yielded +annually 900 pieces of cannon. + +The buildings for the manufacture of shells, shot, and all the +implements of artillery, multiplied in the same proportion. + +Twenty new manufactories for side-arms, directed by a new process. +Before the war, there existed but one. + +An immense manufactory of fire-arms established all at once in Paris, +and yielding 140,000 muskets per year, that is, more than all the old +manufactories together. Several establishments of this nature formed +on the same plan in the different departments of the Republic. + +One hundred and eighty-eight workshops for repairing arms of every +description. Before the war, there existed but six. + +The establishment of a manufactory of carbines, the making of which +was till then unknown in France. + +The art of renewing the touch-hole of cannon discovered, and carried +immediately to a perfection which admits of its being exercised in +the midst of camps. + +A description of the means by which tar, necessary for the navy, may +be speedily extracted from the pine-tree. + +Balloons and telegraphs converted into machines of war. + +All the process of the arts relative to war simplified and improved +by the application of the most learned theories. + +A secret establishment formed at Meudon for that purpose. Experiments +there made on the oxy-muriate of potash, on fire-balls, on +hollow-balls, on ring-balls, &c. + +Great works begun for extracting from the soil of France every thing +that serves for the construction, equipment, and supplies of ships of +war. + +Several researches for replacing or reproducing the principal +materials which the exigencies of the war had consumed, and for +increasing impure potash, which the making of powder had snatched +from the other manufactories. + +Simple and luminous directions for fixing the art of making soap, and +bringing it within reach of the meanest capacity. + +The invention of the composition of which pencils are now made in +France, the black lead for which was previously drawn from England; +and what was inappreciable in those critical circumstances, the +discovery of a method for tanning, in a few days, leather which +generally required several years' preparation. + +In a word, if we speak of the territorial acquisitions, which were +the result of the victories obtained by means of the extraordinary +resources created by the men of science, France has acquired an +extent of 1,498 square leagues, and a population of 4,381,266 +individuals; namely, Savoy, containing 411,700 inhabitants; the +County of Nice, 93,166; Avignon, the _Comtat Venaissin_, and Dutch +Flanders, 200,500; Maëstricht and Venloo, 90,000; Belgium, 1,880,000; +the left bank of the Rhine, 1,658,500; Geneva and its territory, +40,000; and Mulhausen, 7,200. + +P.S. Paris is now all mirth and gaiety; in consequence of the revived +pleasures of the Carnival. I shall not give you my opinion of it till +its conclusion. + +[Footnote 1: See Vol. I. Letter XXXIV.] + +[Footnote 2: The bells produced 27,442,852 pounds of metal. This +article, valued at 10 _sous_ per pound, represents 15 millions of +francs (_circa_ £625,000 sterling). A part served for the fabrication +of copper coin, the remainder furnished pieces of ordnance.] + + + +LETTER LXXIII + +_Paris, February 28, 1802._ + +In all great cities, one may naturally expect to find great vices; +but in regard to gaming, this capital presents a scene which, I will +venture to affirm, is not to be matched in any part of the world. No +where is the passion, the rage for play so prevalent, so universal: +no where does it cause so much havock and ruin. In every class of +society here, gamesters abound. From men revelling in wealth to those +scarcely above beggary, every one flies to the gaming-table; so that +it follows, as a matter of course, that Paris must contain a great +number of _Maisons de jeu_, or + +PUBLIC GAMING-HOUSES. + +They are to be met with in all parts of the town, though the +head-quarters are in the _Palais du Tribunat_, or, as it is most +commonly called, the _Palais Royal_. Whenever you come to Paris, +and see, on the first story, a suite of rooms ostentatiously +illuminated, and a blazing reverberator at the door, you may be +certain that it is a house of this description. + +Before the revolution, gaming was not only tolerated in Paris, but +public gaming-houses were then licensed by the government, under the +agreeable name of _Académies de jeu_. There, any one might ruin +himself under the immediate superintendance of the police, an officer +belonging to which was always present. Besides these academies, women +of fashion and impures of the first class were allowed to keep a +gaming-table or _tripot de jeu_, as it was termed, in their own +house. This was a privilege granted to them in order that they might +thereby recover their shattered fortune. When all the necessary +expenses were paid, these ladies commonly shared the profits with +their protectors, that is, with their friends in power, through whose +protection the _tripot_ was sanctioned. Every one has heard of the +fatal propensity to gaming indulged in by the unfortunate Marie +Antoinette. The French women of quality followed her pernicious +example, as the young male nobility did that of the Count d'Artois +and the Duke of Orleans; so that, however decided might be the +personal aversion of Lewis XVI to gaming, it never was more in +fashion at the court of France than during his reign. This is a fact, +which can be confirmed by General S---th and other Englishmen who +have played deep at the queen's parties. + +At the present day, play is, as I have before stated, much recurred +to as a financial resource, by many of the _ci-devant_ female +_noblesse_ in Paris. In their parties, _bouillotte_ is the prevailing +game; and the speculation is productive, if the company will sit and +play. Consequently, the longer the sitting, the greater the profits. +The same lady who moralizes in the morning, and will read you a +lecture on the mischievous consequences of gaming, makes not the +smallest hesitation to press you to sit down at her _bouillotte_ in +the evening, where she knows you will almost infallibly be a loser. +No protection, I believe, is now necessary for a lady who chooses to +have a little private gaming at her residence, under the specious +names of _société_, _bal_, _thé_, or _concert_. But this is not the +case with the _Maisons de jeu_, where the gaming-tables are public; +or even with private houses, where the object of the speculation is +publicly known. These purchase a license in the following manner. A +person, who is said to have several _sleeping_ partners, engages to +pay to the government the sum of 3,600,000 francs (_circa_ £150,000 +sterling) a year for the power of licensing all gaming-houses in this +capital, and also to account for a tenth part of the profits, which +enter the coffer of the minister at the head of the department of the +police. This contribution serves to defray part of the expense of +greasing the wheels of that intricate machine. Without such a +license, no gaming-house can be opened in Paris. Sometimes it is paid +for by a share in the profits, sometimes by a certain sum per +sitting. + +These _Maisons de jeu_, where dupes are pitted against cheats, are +filled from morning to night with those restless beings, who, in +their eager pursuit after fortune, almost all meet with +disappointment, wretchedness, ruin, and every mischief produced by +gaming. This vice, however, carries with it its own punishment; but +it is unconquerable in the heart which it ravages. It lays a man +prostrate before those fantastic idols, distinguished by the +synonymous names of fate, chance, and destiny. It banishes from his +mind the idea of enriching himself, or acquiring a competence by slow +and industrious means. It feeds, it inflames his cupidity, and +deceives him in order to abandon him afterwards to remorse and +despair. + +From the mere impulse of curiosity, I have been led to visit some of +the principal _Maisons de jeu_. I shall therefore represent what I +have seen. + +In a spacious suite of apartments, where different games of chance +are played, is a table of almost immeasurable length, covered with a +green cloth, with a red piece at one end, and a black, one at the +other. It is surrounded by a crowd of persons of both sexes, squeezed +together, who, all suspended between fear and hope, are waiting, with +eager eyes and open mouth, for the favourable or luckless chance. I +will suppose that the banker or person who deals the cards, announces +"_rouge perd, couleur gagne_." The oracle has spoken. At these words +of fate, on one side of the table, you see countenances smiling, but +with a smile of inquietude, and on the other, long faces, on which is +imprinted the palid hue of death. However, the losers recover from +their stupor: they hope that the next chance will be more fortunate. +If that happens, and the banker calls out "_rouge gagne, couleur +perd_;" then the scene changes, and the same persons whom you have +just seen so gay, make a sudden transition from joy to sadness, and +_vice versa_. This contrast no language can paint, and you must see +it, in order to conceive how the most headstrong gamblers can spend +hour after hour in such a continual state of agitation, in which they +are alternately overwhelmed by rage, anguish, and despair. Some are +seen plucking out their hair by the roots, scratching their face, and +tearing their clothes to pieces, when, after having lost considerable +sums, frequently they have not enough left to pay for a breakfast or +dinner. What an instructive lesaon for the novice! What a subject of +reflection for the philosophic spectator! At these scenes of folly +and rapacity it is that the demon of suicide exults in the triumphs +he is on the point of gaining over the weakness, avarice, and false +pride of mortals. If the wretched victim has not recourse to a +pistol, he probably seeks a grave at the bottom of the river. + +Among these professed gamblers, it often happens that some of them, +in order to create what they term _resources_, imagine tricks and +impostures scarcely credible. I shall relate an anecdote which I +picked up in the course of my inquiries respecting the garning-houses +in Paris. It may be necessary to premise that the counterfeit louis, +which are in circulation in this country, and have nearly the +appearance of the real coin, are employed by these knaves; they +commonly produce them at night, because they then run less risk of +being detected in passing them; but these means are very common and +almost out of date. + +In the great gaming-houses in Paris, it is customary to have on the +table several _rouleaux_ of louis d'or. An old, experienced gambler +came one day to a house of this class, with his pockets full of +leaden _rouleaux_ of the exact form and size of those containing +fifty louis d'or. He placed at one of the ends of the table (either +black or red) one of his leaden _rouleaux_: he lost. The master of +the bank took up his _rouleau_, and, without opening it, put it with +the good _rouleaux_ in the middle of the table, where the bank is +kept. The old gambler, without being disconcerted, staked another. He +won, and withdrew the good _rouleau_ given him, leaving the +counterfeit one on the table, at the same time calling out, "I stake +ten louis out of the _rouleau_." The cards were drawn; he won: the +banker, to pay him the ten louis, took a _rouleau_ from the bank. +Chance willed that he lighted on the leaden _rouleau_. He endeavoured +to break it open by striking it on the table: the _rouleau_ withstood +his efforts. The gambler, without deranging his features, then said +to the banker; "Mind you don't break it." The banker, disconcerted, +tore the paper, and, on opening it, found it to contain nothing but +lead. There being no positive proof against the gambler, he was +permitted to retire, and his only punishment was to be in future +excluded from this gaming-house. But he had the consolation of +knowing that ninety-nine others would be open to him. However, this +and other impostures have led to a regulation, that, in all these +houses, the value of every stake should be apparent to the eye, and +openly exposed on the table. + +From what I have said you might infer that _trente-et-un_ (or _rouge +et noir_) is the most fashionable game played here; but, though this +is the case, it is not the only one in high vogue. Many others, +equally pernicious, are pursued at the same time, such as _la +roulette_, _passe-dix_, and _biribi_, at which cheats and sharpers +can, more at their ease, execute their feats of dexterity and schemes +of plunder. Women frequent the gaming-tables as well as the men, and +often pledge their last shift to make up a stake. It is shocking to +contemplate a young female gamester, the natural beauty of whose +countenance is distorted into deformity by a succession of agonizing +passions. Yet so distressing an object is no uncommon thing in Paris. + +You may, perhaps, be curious to know what are these games, of +_trente-et-un_, _biribi_, _passe-dix,_ and _la roulette_. Never +having played at any of them, such a description as I might pretend +to give, could at best be but imperfect. For which, reason I shall +not engage in the attempt. + +It is confidently affirmed that in the principal towns of France, +namely, Bordeaux, Lyons, Marseilles, Rouen, &c. the rage for play is +no less prevalent than in the capital, where gaming-houses daily +increase in number.[1] They are now established in every quarter in +Paris, even the poorest, and there are some where the lowest of the +populace can indulge in a _penchant_ for gaming, as the stake is +proportioned to their means. This is the ruin of every class of +inhabitants and of foreigners; so much so, that suicides here +increase in exact proportion to the increase of gaming-houses. + +Is it not astonishing that the government should suffer, still more +promote the existence of an evil so pernicious in every point of +view? From the present state of the French finances, it would, +notwithstanding, appear that every consideration, however powerful, +must yield to the want of money required for defraying the expenses +of the department of the Police. + +_Minima de malis_ was the excuse of the old government of France for +promoting gaming. "From the crowd of dissipated characters of every +description, accumulated in great cities," said its partisans, +"governments find themselves compelled to tolerate certain abuses, in +order to avoid evils of greater magnitude. They are forced to +compound with the passions which they are unable to destroy; and it +is better that men should be professed gamblers than usurers, +swindlers, and thieves." Such was the reasoning employed in behalf of +the establishment of the _Académies de jeu_, which existed prior to +the revolution. Such is the reasoning reproduced, at the present day, +in favour of the _Maisons de jeu_; but, when I reflect on all the +horrors occasioned by gaming, I most ardently wish that every +argument in favour of so destructive a vice, may be combated by a pen +like that of Rousseau, which, Sir William Jones says, "had the +property of spreading light before it on the darkest objects, as if +he had written with phosphorus on the walls of a cavern." + +[Footnote 1: During the Carnival of the present year (1803) the +masked balls at the grand French Opera were quite deserted, in +consequence of a new gaming-house, established solely for foreigners, +having, by the payment of considerable sums to the government, +obtained permission to give masked balls. These balls were all the +rage. There was one every Tuesday, and the employment of the whole +week was to procure cards of invitation; for persons were admitted by +_invitation_ only, no money being taken. The rooms, though spacious, +were warm and comfortable; the company, tolerably good, and extremely +numerous, but chiefly composed of foreigners. _Treute-et-un_, +_biribi_, _pharaon_, _creps_, and other fashionable games were +played, so that the _speculators_ could very well afford to give all +sorts of refreshments, and an elegant supper _gratis_.] + + + +LETTER LXXIV. + +_Paris, March 1, 1802_. + +Of all the institutions subsisting here before the revolution, that +which has experienced the greatest enlargement is the + +MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. + +This establishment, formerly called _Le Jardin du Roi_, and now more +commonly known by the name of _Le Jardin des Plantes_, received its +present denomination by a decree of the National Convention, dated +the 10th of June 1793. It is situated on the south bank of the Seine, +nearly facing the Arsenal, and consists of a botanical garden, a +collection of natural history, a library of works relating to that +science, an amphitheatre for the lectures, and a _ménagerie_ of +living animals. + +Originally, it was nothing more than a garden for medicinal plants, +formed under that title, in 1626, by GUY DE LA BROSSE, principal +physician to Lewis XIII, who sanctioned the establishment by letters +patent. The king's physicians were almost always intendants of this +garden till the year 1739, when it was placed under the direction of +BUFFON. Before his time, the cabinet was trifling. It consisted only +of some curiosities collected by GEOFFROY, and a few shells which had +belonged to TOURNEFORT; but, through the zeal of BUFFON, and the care +of his co-operator DAUBENTON, it became a general _dépôt_ of natural +history, and its riches had increased still more than its utility. On +the breaking out of the revolution, it had been protected through +that sort of respect which the rudest men have for the productions of +nature, whence they either receive or expect relief for their +sufferings. It had even been constantly defended by the revolutionary +administration, under whose control and dependence it was placed. +Regarding it, in some measure, as their private property, their pride +was interested in its preservation; and had any attempt been made to +injure it, they would infallibly have caused an insurrection among +the inhabitants of the surrounding _faubourg_. These singular +circumstances, joined to the good understanding prevailing among the +professors, had maintained this fine establishment in a state, if not +increasing, at least stationary. On the revival of order, ideas were +entertained of giving to it an extension which had already been +projected and decreed, even during the reign of terror. + +The botanical garden was enlarged; the extent of the ground intended +for the establishment was doubled; a _ménagerie_ was formed; new +hot-houses and new galleries were constructed; the addition of new +professors was confirmed, and all the necessary disbursements were +made with magnificence. Thus, in the same place where every +production of nature was assembled, natural history was for the first +time taught in its aggregate; and these courses of lectures, become +celebrated by the brilliancy of the facts illustrated in them, the +number of pupils who frequent them, and the great works of which they +have been the cause or the motive, have rendered the MUSEUM OF +NATURAL HISTORY one of the first establishments of instruction +existing in Europe. + +Formerly, there were but three professors attached to this +establishment. At present, there are no less than thirteen, who each +give a course of forty lectures. The courses of zoology and +mineralogy take place in the halls of the cabinet containing the +collections corresponding to each of those sciences. The courses of +botany, anatomy, and chemistry are delivered in the great +amphitheatre, and that of natural iconography in the library. The +days and hours of the lectures are announced every year by particular +advertisements. + +The establishment is administered, under the authority of the +Minister of the Interior, by the professors, who choose, annually, +from among themselves, a director. At present, that situation is held +by FOURCROY. Although this celebrated professor, in his lectures on +chemistry, must principally attach himself to minerals, the +particular object of chemical inquiry, he is far from neglecting +vegetable and animal substances, the analysis of which will, in time, +spread great light on organic bodies. The most recent discoveries on +the exact constitution of bodies are made known in the course of +these lectures, and a series of experiments, calculated for +elucidating the demonstrations, takes place under the eyes of the +auditors. + +No one possesses more than FOURCROY the rare talent of classing well +his subjects, of presenting facts in a striking point of view, and of +connecting them by a succession of ideas extremely rapid, and +expressed in a voice whose melody gives an additional charm to +eloquence. The pleasure of hearing him is peculiarly gratifying; and, +indeed, when he delivers a lecture, the amphitheatre, spacious as it +is, is much too small to contain the crowd of auditors. Then, the +young pupils are seen with their eyes stedfastly fixed on their +master, catching his word with avidity, and fearing to lose one of +them; thus paying by their attention the most flattering tribute to +the astonishing facility of this orator of science, from whose lips +naturally flow, as from a spring, the most just and most select +expressions. Frequently too, carried away by the torrent of his +eloquence, they forget what they have just heard, to think only of +what he is saying. FOURCROY speaks in this manner for upwards of two +hours, without any interruption, and, what is more, without tiring +either his auditors or himself. He writes with no less facility than +he speaks. This is proved by the great number of works which he has +published. But in his writings, his style is more calm, more smooth +than that of his lectures. + +Each professor superintends and arranges the part of the collections +corresponding to the science which he is charged to teach. For this +purpose, there are also assistant naturalists, whose employment is to +prepare the various articles of natural history. The keeper of the +cabinet, under the authority of the director, takes all the measures +necessary for the preservation of the collections. The principal ones +are: + +1. The cabinet of natural history, containing the animal kingdom, +divided into its classes; the mineral kingdom; the fossils, woods, +fruits, and other vegetable productions, together with the herbals. +This cabinet, which occupies the buildings on the right, on entering +from the street, is open to students on Mondays, Wednesdays, and +Saturdays, from eleven o'clock till two, and to the public in general +every Tuesday and Friday in the afternoon. + +2. The library, chiefly composed of works relating to natural +history, contains, among other valuable articles, an immense +collection of animals and plants, painted on vellum. Three painters +are charged to continue this collection under the superintendance of +the professors. The library is open to the public every day from +eleven o'clock to two. + +3. The cabinet of anatomy, containing the preparations relative to +the human race and to animals. It is situated in a separate building, +and for the present open to students only. + +4. The botanical school, containing the plants growing in the open +ground, and the numerous hot-houses in which are cultivated those +peculiar to warm countries. + +5. The _ménagerie_ of foreign animals. At the present moment, they +are dispersed in various parts of the garden; but they are shortly to +be assembled in a spacious and agreeable place. + +6. The chemical laboratory and the collection of chemical +productions. + +To these may be added a laboratory for the preparation of objects of +natural history, and another for that of objects of anatomy. + +Notwithstanding the improved state to which BUFFON had brought this +establishment, yet, through the united care of the several scientific +men who have since had the direction of it, the constant attention +bestowed on it by the government, and even by the conquests of the +French armies, its riches have been so much increased, that its +collection of natural history may at this day be considered as the +finest in being. The department of the minerals and that of the +quadrupeds are nearly complete; that of the birds is one of the most +considerable and the handsomest known; and the other classes, without +answering yet the idea which a naturalist might conceive of thenm, +are, nevertheless, superior to what other countries have to offer. + +Among the curious or scarce articles in this Museum, the following +claim particular notice: + +In the class of quadrupeds, adult individuals, stuffed, such as the +camelopard, the hippopotamus, the single-horned rhinoceros, the +Madagascar squirrel, the Senegal lemur, two varieties of the +oran-outang, the proboscis-monkey, different specimens of the indri, +some new species of bats and opossums, the Batavian kangaroo, and +several antelopes, ant-eaters, &c. + +In the class of birds, a great number of new or rare species, and +among those remarkable either for size or beauty, are the golden +vulture, the great American eagle, the Impey peacock, the Ju[<blot>] +pheasant or argus, the plantain-eater, &c. + +Among the reptiles, the crocodile of the Ganges, the fimbriated +tortoise of Cayenne, &c. + +Among the shells, the glass patella, and a number of valuable, +scarce, or new species. + +The collection of insects has just been completed through the +assiduity of the estimable LAMARCK, the professor who has charge of +that department. + +In the mineral kingdom, independently of the numerous and select +choice of all the specimens, are to be remarked as objects of +particular curiosity, the petrifactions of crocodiles' bones found in +the mountain of St. Pierre at Maëstricht, and the collection of +impressions of fishes from Mount Bolca, near Verona. + +At the present moment, the _ménagerie_ contains a female elephant +only, the male having died since my arrival in Paris, three +dromedaries, two camels, five lions, male and female, a white bear, a +brown bear, a mangousta, a civet, an alligator, an ostrich, and +several other scarce and curious animals, the number and variety of +which receive frequent additions. In other parts of the garden are +inclosures for land and sea fowls, as well as ponds for fishes. + +The denomination of _Jardin des Plantes_ is very appropriate to this +garden, as it furnishes to all the botanical establishments +throughout France seeds of trees and plants useful to the +p[<blot>]ess of agriculture and of the arts; and hence the indigent +poor are supplied with such medicinal plants as are proper for the +cure or relief of their complaints. + + + +LETTER LXXV. + +_Paris, March 3, 1802._ + +It has been repeatedly observed that civilized nations adhere to +their ancient customs for no other reason than because they are +ancient. The French have, above all, a most decided partiality for +those which afford them opportunities of amusement. It must therefore +have been a subject of no small regret to them, on the annual return +of those periods, to find the government taking every measure for the +suppression of old habits. For some years since the revolution, all +disguises and masquerades were strictly prohibited; but, though the +executive power forbade pasteboard masks, its authority could not +extend to those mental disguises which have been occasionally worn by +many leading political characters in this country. No sooner was the +prohibition against masquerading removed, than the Parisians gave +full scope to the indulgence of their inclination; and this year was +revived, in all its glory, the celebration of + +THE CARNIVAL. + +Yesterday was the conclusion of that mirthful period, during which +Folly seemed to have taken possession of all the inhabitants of this +populous city. Every thing that gaiety, whim, humour, and +eccentricity could invent, was put in practice to render it a sort of +continued jubilee. From morn to night, the concourse of masks of +every description was great beyond any former example; but still +greater was the concourse of spectators. All the principal streets +and public gardens were thronged by singular characters, in +appropriate dresses, moving about in small detached parties or in +numerous close bodies, on foot, on horseback, or in carriages. The +_Boulevards_, the _Rue de la Loi_, and the _Rue St. Honoré_, +exhibited long processions of masks and grotesque figures, crowded +both in the inside and on the outside of vehicles of all sorts, from +a _fiacre_ to a German waggon, drawn by two, four, six, and eight +horses; while the _Palais Royal_, the _Tuileries_, the _Place de la +Concorde_, and the _Champs Elysées_ were filled with pedestrian wits, +amusing the surrounding multitude by the liveliness of their sallies +and the smartness of their repartee. Here S[<blot>]pins, +Scaramouches, Punchinellos, Pierrots, Harlequins, and Columbines, +together with nuns, friars, abbés, bishops, and _marquis_ in +caricature, enlivened the scene: there, sultans, sultanas, +janissaries, mamlûks, Turks, Spaniards, and Indians, in stately +pride, attracted attention. On one side, a Mars and Venus, an Apollo +and Daphne, figured under the attributes of heathen mythology: on +another, more than one Adam and Eve recalled to mind the origin of +the creation. + +To the eye of an untravelled Englishman, the novelty of this sight +must have been a source of no small entertainment. If he was of a +reflecting mind, however, it must have given rise to a variety of +observations, and some of them of a rather serious nature. In +admiring the order and decency which reigned amidst so much mirth and +humour, he must have been desirous to appreciate the influence of +political events on the character of this people. In a word, he must +have been anxious to ascertain how far the return of our Gallic +neighbours to their ancient habits, announces a return to their +ancient institutions. + +It is well known that the Carnival of modern times is an imitation of +the Saturnalia of the ancients, and that the celebration of those +festivals was remarkable for the liberty which universally prevailed; +slaves being, at that period, permitted to ridicule their masters, +and speak with freedom on every subject. During the last years of the +French monarchy, the Parisians neglected not to avail themselves of +this privilege. When all classes were confounded, at the time of the +Carnival, the most elevated became exposed to the lash of the lowest; +and, under the mask of satire, the abuses which had crept into +religious societies, and the corruption which prevailed in every +department of the State, escaped not their bold censure. From a +consciousness, no doubt, of their own weakness, the different +governments that have ruled over France since the revolution, dreaded +the renewal of scenes in which their tottering authority might be +overthrown; but such an apprehension cannot have been entertained by +the present government, as manifestly appears from the almost +unlimited license which has reigned during the late Carnival. +Notwithstanding which, it is worthy of remark that no satirical +disguises were met with, no shafts of ridicule were aimed at the +constituted authorities, no invective was uttered against such and +such an opinion, no abuse was levelled against this or that party. +Censure and malice either slept or durst not shew themselves, though +freedom of expression seemed to be under no restraint. + +Formerly, when the people appeared indifferent to the motley +amusements of the Carnival, and little disposed to mix in them, +either as actors or spectators, it was not uncommon for the +government to pay for some masquerading. The _mouchards_ and +underlings of the police were habited as grotesque characters, +calculated to excite curiosity, and promote mirth. They then spread +themselves, to the number of two or three thousand, over different +parts of the town, and gave to the streets of Paris a false colouring +of joy and gladness; for the greater the misery of the people, the +more was it thought necessary to exhibit an outward representation of +public felicity. But these political impostures, having been seen +through, at length failed in their effect, and were nearly +relinquished before the revolution. At that time, nothing diverted +the populace so much as _attrapes_ or bites; and every thing that +engendered gross and filthy ideas was sure to please. Pieces of +money, heated purposely, were scattered on the pavement, in order +that persons, who attempted to pick them up, might burn their +fingers. Every sort of bite was practised; but the greatest +attraction and acme of delight consisted of _chianlits_, that is, +persons masked, walking about, apparently, in their shirt, the tail +of which was besmeared with mustard. + +At the present day, these coarse and disgusting jokes are evidently +laid aside, as some of a more rational kind are exhibited; such as +the nun, partly concealed in a truss of straw, and strapped on the +catering friar's back; the effect of the galvanic fluid; and many +others too numerous to mention. No factitious mirth was this year +displayed; it was all natural; and if it did not add to the small sum +of happiness of the distressed part of the Parisian community, it +must, for a while at least, have made them forget their wretchedness. +With few exceptions, every one seemed employed in laughing or in +exciting laughter. Many of the characters assumed were such as +afforded an opportunity of displaying a particular species of wit or +humour; but the dress of some of the masquerading parties, being an +excellent imitation of the rich costumes of Asia, must have been +extremely expensive. + +To conclude, the masked balls at the Opera, on the last days of the +Carnival, were numerously attended. Very few characters were here +attempted, and those were but faintly supported. Adventures are the +principal object of the frequenters of these balls, and I have reason +to think that the persons who went in quest of them were not +disappointed. In short, though I have often passed the Carnival in +Paris, I never witnessed one that went off with greater _éclat_. As +the Turkish Spy observes, a small quantity of ashes, dropped, the day +after its conclusion, on the head of these people in disguise, cools +their frenzy. From being mad and foolish, they become calm and +rational. + + + +LETTER LXXVI. + +_Paris, March 5, 1802._ + +As I foresee that my private affairs will, probably, require my +presence in England sooner than I expected, I hasten to give you an +idea of the principal public edifices which I have not, yet noticed. +One of these is the _Luxembourg_ Palace, now called the + +PALAIS DU SÉNAT CONSERVATEUR. + +Mary of Medicis, relict of Henry IV, having purchased of the Duke of +Luxembourg his hotel and its dependencies, erected on their site this +palace. It was built in 1616, under the direction of JACQUES DE +BROSSE, on the plan of the _Pitti_ palace at Florence. + +Next to the _Louvre_, the _Luxembourg_ is the most spacious palace in +Paris. It is particularly distinguished for its bold character, its +regularity, and the beauty of its proportions. The whole façade is +ornamented with coupled pilasters: on the ground-floor, the Tuscan +order is employed, and above, the Doric, with alternate rustics. In +the four pavilions, placed at the angles of the principal pile, the +Ionic has been added to the other two orders, because they are more +elevated than the rest of the buildings. Towards the _Rue de +Tournon_, the two pavilions communicate by a handsome terrace, in the +middle of which is a circular saloon, surmounted by a dome of the +most elegant proportion. Beneath this dome is the principal entrance. +The court is spacious, and on each side of it are covered arches +which form galleries on the ground-floor and in front of the upper +story. + +The twenty-four pictures which Mary of Medicis had caused to be +painted by the celebrated RUBENS, for the gallery of the +_Luxembourg_, had been removed from it some years before the +revolution. At that time even, they were intended for enriching the +Museum of the _Louvre_. Four of them are now exhibited there in the +Great Gallery. They are allegorical; with the other twenty, they +represent the prosperous part of the history of that queen, and form +a striking contrast to the adversity she afterwards experienced +through the persecution of Cardinal Richelieu. + +To gratify his revenge, he ordered all the furniture, &c. belonging +to Mary of Medicis to be sold, together with the statues which then +decorated the courts and garden of the _Luxembourg_, and pursued with +inveteracy the unfortunate queen who had erected this magnificent +edifice. Being exiled from France in 1631, she wandered for a long +time in Flanders, and also in England, till the implacable cardinal +prevailed on Charles I, to command her to quit the kingdom. In 1642, +she took refuge at Cologne, and, at the age of 68, there died in a +garret, almost through hunger and distress. + +Before the revolution, this palace belonged to MONSIEUR, next brother +to Lewis XVI. It has since been occupied by the Directory, each of +whose members here had apartments. No material change has yet been +made in it; nor does any thing announce that the partial alterations +intended, either in its exterior or interior, will speedily be +completed. + + "----_Pendent opera interrupta minæque, &c._" + +At the present day, the _Luxembourg_ is appropriated to the +Conservative Senate, whose name it has taken, and who here hold their +sittings in a hall, fitted up in a style of magnificence still +superior to that of the Legislative Body. But the sittings of the +former are not public like those of the latter; and as I had no more +than a peep at their fine hall, I cannot enter into a description of +its beauties. + +However, I took a view of their garden, in which I had formerly +passed many a pleasant hour. Here, workmen are employed in making +considerable improvements. It was before very irregular, particularly +towards the south, where the view from the palace was partly +concealed by the buildings of the monastery of the Carthusians. By +degrees, these irregularities are made to disappear, and this garden +will shortly be laid out in such a manner as to correspond better +with the majesty of the palace, and display its architecture to +greater advantage. Alleys of trees, which were decayed from age, have +been cut down, and replaced by young plants of thriving growth. In +front of the south façade is to be a tasteful parterre, with an +oblong piece of water in its centre. Beyond the garden is a large +piece of ground formerly belonging to the Carthusian monastery, which +is now nearly demolished; this ground is to be converted into a +national nursery for all sorts of valuable fruit-trees. Being +contiguous to the garden of the Senate, with which it communicates, +it will furnish a very extensive promenade, and consequently add to +the agreeableness of the place. + +The present Minister of the Interior, CHAPTAL, who cultivates the +arts and sciences with no less zeal than success, purposes to make +here essays on the culture of vine-plants of every species, in order +to obtain comparative results, which will throw a new light on that +branch of rural economy. + +A great number of vases and statues are placed in the garden of the +Senate. Many of these works are indifferently executed, though a few +of them are in a good style. Certainly, a more judicious and more +decorous choice ought to have been made. It was not necessary to +excite regret in the mind of the moralist, by placing under the eyes +of the public figures of both sexes which are repugnant to modesty. + +If it be really meant to attempt to mend the loose morals of the +nation, why are nudities, which may be considered as the leaven of +corruption, exposed thus in this and other national gardens in Paris? + + * * * * * + +_March 5, in continuation_. + +St. Foix, in his "_Essais historiques sur Paris_" speaking of the +Bastille, says, "it is a castle, which, without being strong, is one +of the most formidable in Europe." In their arduous struggle for +liberty, the French have scarcely left a vestige of this dread abode, +in which have been immured so many victims of political vengeance. I +will not pretend to affirm that such is the description of prisoners +now confined in + +LE TEMPLE. + +But when the liberty of individuals lies at the mercy of arbitrary +power, every one has a right to draw his own inference. + +This edifice takes its name from the Templars, whose chief residence +it was till they were annihilated in 1313. Philip the Fair and +Clement V contrived, under various absurd pretences, to massacre and +burn the greater part of the knights of this order. The knights of +St. John of Jerusalem were put in possession of all the property of +the Templars, except such part as the king of France and the Pope +thought fit to share between them. The _Temple_ then became the +provincial house of the Grand Priory of France. + +The Grand Priory consisted of the inclosure within the walls of the +_Temple_, where stood a palace for the Grand Prior, a church, and +several houses inhabited by shopkeepers and mechanics; but, with the +considerable domains annexed to it, this post, before the revolution, +yielded to the eldest son of the Count d'Artois, as Grand Prior, an +annual revenue of 200,000 livres. The inclosure was at that time a +place of refuge for debtors, where they enjoyed the privilege of +freedom from arrest. + +The palace was erected by JACQUES SOUVRÉ, Grand Prior of France. Near +it, is a large Gothic tower of a square form, flanked by four round +turrets of great elevation, built by HUBERT, treasurer to the +Templars, who died in 1222. + +It was in this building, which was considered as one of the most +solid in France, that Lewis XVI was confined from the middle of +September 1792 to the day of his execution. From the 13th of August +till that period, the royal family had occupied the part of the +palace which has been preserved. This tower, when it had been +entirely insulated and surrounded by a ditch, was inclosed by a high +wall, which also included part of the garden. The casements were +provided with strong iron bars, and masked by those shutters, called, +I believe, _trunk-lights_. As for the life which the unhappy monarch +led in this prison, a detailed narrative of it has been published in +England, by Cléry, his faithful _valet-de-chambre_. + +I have not been very anxious to approach the _Temple_, because I +concluded that, if fame was not a liar, there was no probability of +my having an opportunity of seeing any part of it, except the outer +wall. The result was a confirmation of my opinion. Who are its +occupiers? What is their number? What are their crimes? These are +questions which naturally intrude themselves on the mind, when one +surveys the turrets of this new Bastille--for, whether a place of +confinement for state-prisoners be called _La Bastille_ or _Le +Temple_, nevertheless it is a state-prison, and reminds one of +slavery, which, as Sterne says, is, in any disguise, a bitter +draught; and though thousands, in all ages, have been made to drink +of it, still it is not, on that account, less bitter. + + + +LETTER LXXVII + +_Paris, March 8, 1802_. + +Nothing would give me greater pleasure than to be always able to +answer your inquiries without hesitation. Considering the round of +amusements in which I live, I flatter myself you will readily admit +that it requires no small share of good-will and perseverance to +devote so much time to scribbling for your entertainment. As for +information, you will, on your arrival in Paris, know how much or how +little you have derived from the perusal of my letters. You will then +have it in your power to compare and judge. With the originals before +you, you cannot be at a loss to determine how far the sketches +resemble them. + +Some of your inquiries have been already answered in my former +letters. Among the number, however, you will find no reply on the +subject of the + +PRESENT STATE OF THE FRENCH PRESS. + +This question being of a nature no less delicate than that concerning +the police, you cannot but commend my discretion in adopting a +similar method to gratify your curiosity; that is, to refer you to +the intelligent author whom I quoted on the former occasion. If +common report speaks the truth--_Sit mihi fas audita loqui?_--the +press here is now in much the same state in which it was before the +revolution. I shall therefore borrow again the language of MERCIER, +who is a famous dreamer, inasmuch as many of his dreams have been +realized: yet, with all his foresight and penetration, I question +whether he ever dreamt that his picture of the French press, drawn in +the interval between the years 1781 and 1788, would still be, in some +respects, a true one at the beginning of the year 1802. But, as +Boileau shrewdly remarks, + + "_Le vrai peut quelquefois n'être pas vraisemblable._" + +"The enemies of books," says our author, "are the enemies of, +knowledge, and consequently of mankind. The shackles with which the +press is loaded, are an incitement for setting them at defiance. If +we were to enjoy a decent liberty, we should no longer have recourse +to licentiousness. There are political evils which the liberty of the +press prevents, and this is already a great benefit. The interior +police of States requires to be enlightened by disinterested +writings. There is no one but the philosopher, satisfied with the +esteem alone of his fellow-citizens, that can raise himself above the +clouds formed by personal interest, and set forth the abuses of +insidious custom. In short, the liberty of the press will always be +the measure of civil liberty; and it is a species of thermometer, +which shews, at one glance, what a people have lost or gained. + +"If we adopt this maxim, we are every day losing; for every day the +press is more restricted. + +"Suffer people to think and speak; the public will judge: they will +even find means to correct authors. The surest method to purify the +press, is to render it free: obstacles irritate it: prohibitions and +difficulties engender the pamphlets complained of. + +"Could despotism kill thought in its sanctuary, and prevent us from +communicating the essence of our ideas to the mind of our +fellow-creatures, it would do so. But not being able quite to pluck +out the philosopher's tongue, and cut off his hands, it establishes +an inquisition, peoples the frontiers with searchers, spreads +satellites, and opens every package, in order to interrupt the +infallible progress of morality and truth. Useless and puerile +effort! Vain attack on the natural right of general society, and on +the patriotic rights of a particular one! Reason, from day to day, +strikes nations with a greater lustre, and will at last shine +unclouded. It answers no purpose to fear or persecute genius: nothing +will extinguish in its hands the torch of truth: the decree which its +mouth pronounces, will be repeated by all posterity against the +unjust man. He wished to snatch from his fellow-creatures the most +noble of all privileges, that of thinking, which is inseparable from +that of existing: he will have manifested his weakness and folly; and +he will merit the twofold reproach of tyranny and impotence. + +"When a very flat, very atrocious, and very calumniating libel +appears under a fellow's coat, 'tis a contest who shall have it +first. People pay an exorbitant price for it; the hawker who cannot +read, and who wishes only to get bread for his poor family, is +apprehended, and sent to prison, where he shifts for himself as well +as he can. + +"The more the libel is prohibited, the more eager we are for it. When +we have read it, and we see that nothing compensates for its mean +temerity, we are ashamed to have sought after it. We scarcely dare +say, _we have read it_: 'tis the scum of low literature, and what is +there without its scum? + +"Contempt would be the surest weapon against those miserable +productions which are equally destitute of truth and talent. + +"When will men in power know how to disdain equally the interested +encomiums of intriguing flatterers and the satires produced by +hunger? + +"Besides, those who sit in the first boxes must always expect some +shafts levelled at them by those who are in the pit; this becomes +almost inevitable. They must needs pay for their more commodious +place: at least we attribute to those who rule over us more +enjoyments: they have some which they will avow, solely with a view +to raise themselves above the multitude. The human heart is naturally +envious. Let men in power then forgive or dissemble seasonably: +satire will fall to the ground; it is by shewing themselves +impassible, that they will disarm ardent malignity. + +"Nevertheless, there is a kind of odious libel, which, having every +characteristic of calumny, ought to be repressed. This is commonly +nothing more than the fruit of anonymous and envenomed revenge: for +what are the secret intrigues of courts to any man of letters? He +will know time enough that which will suit the pen of history. + +"A libeller should be punished, as every thing violent ought to be. +But the parties interested should abstain from pronouncing; for where +then would be the proportion between the punishment and the crime? + +"I apply not the name of libels to those atrocious and gratuitous +accusations against the private life of persons in power or +individuals unconnected with the government. Such injurious and +unmeaning shafts are an attack on honour: their authors should be +punished. + +"The police detected and apprehended one of its inspectors, who, +being charged to discover those libels, proposed the composition of +similar ones to some half-starved authors. After having laid for them +this infernal snare for the gain of a little money, he informed +against them, and sold them to the government. + +"These miscreants, blinded by the eager thirst of a little gold, +divert themselves with the uneasiness of the government, and the more +they see it in the trances of apprehension, the more they delight in +magnifying the danger, and doubling its alarms. + +"Liberty has rendered the English government insensible to libels. +Disdain is certain, before the work is commenced. If the satire is +ingenious, people laugh at it, without believing it; if it is flat, +they despise it. + +"Why cannot the French government partly adopt this indifference? A +contempt, more marked, for those vile and unknown pens that endeavour +to wound the sensibility of pride, would disgust the readers of the +flat and lying satires after which they are so eager, only because +they imagine that the government is really offended by them. + +"It is to be observed that the productions that flatter more or less +public malignity, spread in fugitive sparks a central fire, which, if +compressed, would, perhaps, produce an explosion. + +"Magistrates have not yet been seen disdaining those obscure shafts, +rendering themselves invulnerable from the openness of their +proceedings, and considering that praise will be mute, as long as +criticism cannot freely raise its voice. + +"Let them then punish the flattery by which they are assailed, since +they are so much afraid of the libel that always contains some good +truths: besides, the public are there to judge the detractor; and no +unjust satire ever circulated a fort-night, without being branded +with contempt. + +"Ministers reciprocally deceive each other when they are attacked in +this manner; the one laughs at the storm which has just burst on the +other, and promotes secretly what he appears to prosecute openly and +with warmth. It would be a curious thing if one could bring to light +the good tricks which the votaries of ambition play each other in the +road to power and fortune. + +"There is nothing now printed in Paris, in the line of politics and +history, but satires and falsehoods. Foreigners look down with pity +on every thing that emanates from the capital on these matters. Other +subjects begin to feel the consequences of this, because the +restraint laid on the mind is manifested even in books of simple +amusement. The presses of Paris are no longer to serve but for +posting-bills, and invitations to funerals and weddings. Almanacks +are already a subject too elevated, and the inquisition examines and +garbles them. + +"When I see a book," says MERCIER, "sanctioned by the government, I +would lay a wager, without opening it, that this book contains +political falsehoods. The chief magistrate may well say: 'This piece +of paper shall be worth a thousand francs;' but he cannot say: 'Let +this error become truth,' or, 'let this truth no longer be anything +but an error.' He may say it, but he can never compel men's minds to +adopt it. + +"What is admirable in printing, is that these fine works, which do +honour to human genius, are not to be commanded or paid for; on the +contrary, it is the natural liberty of a generous mind, which unfolds +itself in spite of dangers, and makes a present to human nature, in +spite of tyrants. This is what renders the man of letters so +commendable, and insures to him the gratitude of future ages. + +"O! worthy Englishmen! generous people, strangers to our shameful +servitude, carefully preserve among you the liberty of the press: it +is the pledge of your freedom. At this day, you alone are the +representatives of nearly all mankind; you uphold the dignity of the +name of man. The thunderbolts, which strike the pride and insolence +of arbitrary power, issue from your happy island. Human reason has +found among you an asylum whence she may instruct the world. Your +books are not subject to an inquisition; and it would require a long +comment to explain to you in what manner permission is at length +obtained for a flimsy pamphlet, which no one will read, to be exposed +for sale, and remain unsold, on the _Quai de Gévres_. + +"We are so absurd and so little in comparison to you," adds MERCIER, +"that you would be at a loss to conceive the excess of our weakness +and humiliation." + + + +LETTER LXXVIII + +_Paris, March 9, 1802._ + +Among the national establishments in this metropolis, I know of none +that have experienced so great an amelioration, since the revolution, +as the + +HOSPITALS AND OTHER CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS; + +The civil hospitals in Paris now form two distinct classes. The one +comprehends the hospitals for the sick: the other, those for the +indigent. The former are devoted to the relief of suffering human +nature; the latter serve as an asylum to children, to the infirm, and +to the aged indigent. All persons who are not ill enough to be +admitted of necessity into the hospital the nearest to their +residence, are obliged to present themselves to the _Bureau Central +d'Admissions_. Here they are examined, and if there be occasion, they +receive a ticket of admission for the hospital where their particular +disorder is treated. At the head of the hospitals for the sick stands +that so long known by the appellation of the + +HÔTEL-DIEU. + +Formerly, nothing more horrid could be conceived than the spectacle +presented in this asylum for the afflicted. It was rather a +charnel-house than an hospital; and the name of the Creator, over +the gate, which recalled to mind the principle of all existence, +served only to decorate the entrance of the tomb of the living. + +The _Hôtel-Dieu_, which is situated in the _Parvis Notre-Dame_, _Ile +du Palais_, was founded as far back as the year 660 by St. Landry, +for the reception of the sick and maimed of both sexes, without any +exception of persons. Jews, Turks, infidels, pagans, protestants, and +catholics were alike admitted, without form or recommendation. Yet, +though it contained but 1200 beds, and the number of patients very +often exceeded 5000, and, on an average, was never less than 2500, +till the year 1786, no steps were taken for enlarging the hospital, +or providing elsewhere for those who could not be conveniently +accommodated in it. The dead were removed from the wards only on +visits made at a fixed time; so that it happened not unfrequently +that a poor helpless patient was compelled to remain for hours wedged +in between two corpses. The air or the neighbourhood was contaminated +by the noisome exhalations continually arising from this abode of +pestilence, and that which was breathed within the walls of the +hospital was so contagious, as to turn a trifling complaint into a +dangerous disorder, and a simple wound into a mortification. + +In 1785, the attention of the government being called to this serious +evil by various memoirs, the _Academy of Sciences_ was directed to +investigate the truth of the bold assertions made in these +publications. A commission was appointed; but as the revenues of the +_Hôtel-Dieu_ were immense, for a long time it was impossible to +obtain from the Governors any account of their application. However, +the Commissioners, directing their attention to the principal object, +reported as follows: "We first compared the _Hôtel-Dieu_ and the +_Hôpital de la Charité_ relative to their mortality. In 52 years, the +_Hôtel-Dieu_, out of 1,108,741 patients lost 244,720, which is one +out of four and a half. _La Charité_, where but one dies out of seven +and a half, would have lost only 168,700, whence results the +frightful picture that the _Hôtel-Dieu_, in 52 years, has snatched +from France 99,044 persons, whose lives would have been saved, had +the _Hôtel-Dieu_ been as spacious, in proportion, as _La Charité_. +The loss in these 52 years answers to 1906 deaths per year, and that +is nearly the tenth part of the total and annual loss of Paris. The +preservation of this hospital in the site it now occupies, and on its +present plan, therefore produces the same effect as a sort of plague +which constantly desolates the capital." + +In consequence of this report, the hospital was enlarged so as to +contain about 2000 beds. Since the revolution, the improvements +introduced into the interior government of the _Hotel-Dieu_ have been +great and rapid. Each patient now has a bed to himself. Those +attacked by contagious disorders are transferred to the _Hospice St. +Louis_. Insane persons are no longer admitted; men, thus afflicted, +are sent to a special hospital established at _Charenton_; and women, +to the _Salpétrière_. Nor are any females longer received into the +_Hôtel-Dieu_ to lie-in; an hospital having been established for the +reception of pregnant women. At the _Hôtel-Dieu_, every method has +been put in practice to promote the circulation of air, and expel the +insalubrious miasmata. One of these, I think, well deserves to be +adopted in England. + +In the French hospitals, one ward at least is now always kept empty. +The moment it becomes so by the removal of the patients into another, +the walls are whitewashed, and the air is purified by the fumigation +with muriatic acid, according to the plan first proposed by +GUYTON-MORVEAU. This operation is alternately performed in each +ward in succession; that which has been the longest occupied being +purified the first, and left empty till it is again wanted. + +The number of hospitals in Paris has been considerably augmented. +They are all supported by the government, and not, like those in +England, by private benefactions. Sick children of both sexes, from +the time of suckling to the age of sixteen, are no longer admitted +into the different hospitals; but are received into a special +hospital, extremely well arranged, and in a fine, airy situation, +beyond the _Barrière de Sèvres_. Two institutions have been formed +for the aged, infirm and indigent, who pay, on entrance, a moderate +sum. One of these charities is without the _Barrière d'Enfer_; the +other, in the _Faubourg St. Martin_. In the same _faubourg_, a +_Maison de Santé_ is established, where the sick are treated on +paying thirty _sous_ a day. + +An hospital for gratuitous vaccination, founded by the Prefect of the +department of La Seine, is now open for the continual treatment of +the cow-pox, and the distribution of the matter to all parts of +France. + +In general, the charitable institutions in Paris have also undergone +very considerable improvements since the revolution; for instance, +the male orphans, admitted, to the number of two thousand, into the +asylum formerly called _La Pitié_, in the _Faubourg St. Victor_, used +to remain idle. They were employed only to follow funeral +processions. At present, they are kept at work, and instructed in +some useful trade. + +A new institution for female orphans has been established in the +_Faubourg St. Antoine_; for, here, the two sexes are not at present +received into the same house, whether hospital or other charitable +institution. In consequence of which, Paris now contains two +receptacles for _Incurables_, in lieu of the one which formerly +existed. + +The place of the _Hôpital des Enfans-Trouvés_ is also supplied by an +establishment, on a large scale, called the + +HOSPICE DE LA MATERNITÉ. + +It is divided into two branches, each of which occupies a separate +house. The one for foundlings, in the _Rue de la Bourbe_, is intended +for the reception of children abandoned by their parents. Here they +are reared, if not sent into the country to be suckled. The other, in +the _Rue d'Enfer_, which may be considered as the General Lying-in +Hospital of Paris, is destined for the reception of pregnant women. +Upwards of 1500 are here delivered every year. + +As formerly, no formality is now required for the admission of +new-born infants. In the old Foundling-Hospital, the number annually +received exceeded 8000. It is not near so great at present. To those +who reflect on the ravages made among the human race by war, during +which disease sweeps off many more than are killed in battle, it is a +most interesting sight to behold fifty or sixty little foundlings +assembled in one ward, where they are carefully fed till they are +provided with wet nurses. + +I must here correct a mistake into which I have been betrayed, in my +letter of the 26th of December, respecting the present destination of + +LA SALPÊTRIÈRE. + +It is no longer used as a house of correction for dissolute women. +Prostitutes, taken up by the police, are now carried to St. Lazare, +in the _Rue St. Denis_. Those in want of medical aid, for disorders +incident to their course of life, are not sent to _Bicêtre, but to +the _ci-devant_ monastery of the Capucins, in the _Rue Caumartin_. + +At present, the _Salpêtrière forms an _hospice_ for the reception of +indigent or infirm old women, and young girls, brought up in the +Foundling-Hospital, are placed here to be instructed in needle-work +and making lace. Female idiots and mad women are also taken care of +in a particular part of this very extensive building. + +The Salpêtrière was erected by Lewis XIII, and founded as an +hospital, by Lewis XIV, in 1656. The facade has a majestic +appearance. Before the revolution, this edifice was said to lodge +6000 souls, and even now, it cannot contain less than 4000. By the +_Plan of Paris_, you will see its situation, to the south-east of the +_Jardin des Plantes_. + +I shall also avail myself of the opportunity of correcting another +mistake concerning + +BICÊTRE. + +This place has now the same destination for men that the Salpétrière +has for women. There is a particular hospital, lately established, +for male venereal patients, in the _Rue du Faubourg St. Jacques_. + + * * * * * + +_March 9, in continuation._ + +Previously to the decree of the 19th of August 1792, which suppressed +the universities and other scientific institutions, there existed in +France Faculties and Colleges of Physicians, as well as Colleges and +Commonalities of Surgeons. From one of those unaccountable +contradictions of which the revolution affords so many instances, +these were also suppressed at a time when they were becoming most +necessary for supplying the French armies with medical men. But as +soon as the fury of the revolutionary storm began to abate, the +re-establishment of Schools of Medicine was one of the first objects +that engaged attention. + +Till these latter times, Medicine and Surgery, separated from each +other, mutually contended for pre-eminence. Each had its forms and +particular schools. They seemed to have divided between them +suffering human nature, instead of uniting for its relief. On both +sides, men of merit despised such useless distinctions; they felt +that the curative art ought to comprehend all the knowledge and all +the means that can conduce to its success; but these elevated ideas +were combated by narrow minds, which, not being capable of embracing +general considerations, always attach to details a great importance. +The revolution terminated these disputes, by involving both parties +in the same misfortunes. + +At the time of the re-establishment of Public Instruction, the + +_Schools of Health_, founded at Paris, Montpelier, and Strasburg, on +plans digested by men the most enlightened, presented a complete body +of instruction relative to every branch of the curative art. Physics +and chemistry, which form the basis of that art, were naturally +included, and nothing that could contribute to its perfection, in the +present state of the sciences, was forgotten. The plan of instruction +is fundamentally the same in all these schools; but is more extensive +in the principal one, that is, in the + +SCHOOL OF MEDICINE OF PARIS. + +This very striking monument of modern architecture, situated in the +_Faubourg St. Germain_, owes its erection to the partiality which +Lewis XV entertained for the art of surgery. That monarch preferred +it to every science; he was fond of conversing on it, and took such +an interest in it, that, in order to promote its improvement, he +built this handsome edifice for the _ci-devant Académie et Écoles de +Chirurgie_. The architect was GONDOUIN. + +The façade, extending nearly two hundred feet, presents a peristyle +of the Ionic order. The interior distribution of this building +corresponds with the elegance of its exterior. It contains a valuable +library, a cabinet of anatomical preparations (among which is a +skeleton that presents a rare instance of a general _anchilosis_) and +imitations in wax, a chemical laboratory, a vast collection of +chirurgical and philosophical instruments, and a magnificent +amphitheatre, the first stone of which was laid by Lewis XVI in +December 1774. This lecture-room will conveniently hold twelve +hundred persons, and its form and arrangement are such, that a pupil +seated the farthest from the subject under dissection, can see all +the demonstrations of the Professor as well as if placed near the +marble table. + +In one wing of the building is an _Hospice de Perfectionnement_, +formerly instituted for the reception of rare chirurgical cases only; +but into which other patients, labouring under internal disorders of +an extraordinary nature, are now likewise admitted. + +To this school are attached from twenty to thirty Professors, who +lecture on anatomy and physiology; medical chemistry and pharmacy; +medical physics; pathology, internal and external; natural history, +as connected with medicine, and botany; operative medicine; external +and internal clinical cases, and the modern improvements in treating +them; midwifery, and all disorders incident to women; the physical +education of children; the history of medicine, and its legitimate +practice; the doctrine of Hippocrates, and history of rare cases; +medical bibliography, and the demonstration of the use of drugs and +chirurgical instruments. There are also a chief anatomist, a painter, +and a modeller in wax. The lectures are open to the public as well as +to the students, who are said to exceed a thousand. Besides this part +of instruction, the pupils practise anatomical, chirurgical, and +chemical operations. To the number of one hundred and twenty, they +form a practical school, divided into three classes, and are +successively distributed into three of the clinical hospitals in +Paris. At an annual competition, prizes are awarded to the greatest +proficients. + +Although this school is so numerously attended, and has produced +several skilful professors, celebrated anatomists, and a multitude of +distinguished pupils, yet it appears that, since there has been no +regular admission for physicians and surgeons, the most complete +anarchy has prevailed in the medical line. The towns and villages in +France are overrun by quacks, who deal out poison and death with an +audacity which the existing laws are unable to check. Under the title +of _Officiers de Santé_, they impose on the credulity of the public, +in the most dangerous manner, by the distribution of nostrums for +every disorder. To put a stop to this alarming evil, it is in +contemplation to promulgate a law, enacting that no one shall in +future practise in France as a physician or surgeon, without having +been examined and received into one of the six Special Schools of +Medicine, or as an officer of health, without having studied a +certain number of years, walked the hospitals, and also passed a +regular examination.[1] + +At the medical school of Paris are held the meetings of the + +SOCIETY OF MEDICINE. + +It was instituted for the purpose of continuing the labours of the +_ci-devant_ Royal Society of Medicine and the old Academy of Surgery. +With this view, it is charged to keep up a correspondence, not only +with the medical men resident within the limits of the Republic, but +also with those of foreign countries, respecting every object that +can tend to the progress of the art of healing. + + * * * * * + +As far back as the year 1777, there existed in Paris a college of +Pharmacy. The apothecaries, composing this college, had formed, at +their own expense, an establishment for instruction relative to the +curative art, in their laboratory and garden in the _Rue de +l'Arbalêtre_. Since the revolution, the acknowledged utility of this +institution has caused it to be maintained under the title of the + +GRATUITOUS SCHOOL OF PHARMACY. + +Here are delivered _gratis_, by two professors in each department, +public lectures on pharmaceutic chemistry, pharmaceutic natural +history, and botany. When the courses are finished, prizes are +annually distributed to the pupils who distinguish themselves most by +their talents and knowledge. + +In the year 1796, the apothecaries of Paris, animated by a desire to +render this establishment still more useful, formed themselves into a +society, by the name of the + +FREE SOCIETY OF APOTHECARIES. + +Its object is to contribute to the progress of the arts and sciences, +particularly pharmacy, chemistry, botany, and natural history. This +society admits, as free and corresponding associates, _savans_ of all +the other departments of France and of foreign countries, who +cultivate those sciences and others analogous to them. Some of the +most enlightened men in France are to be found among its members. + +The advantageous changes made in the teaching of medicine, since the +revolution, appear to consist chiefly in the establishment of +clinical lectures. The teaching of the sciences, accessory to +medicine, partakes more or less advantageously of the great progress +made in that of chemistry. It seems that, in general, the students in +medicine grant but a very limited confidence to accredited opinions, +and that they recur to observation and experience much more than they +did formerly. As for the changes which have occurred in the practice +of medicine, I think it would be no easy matter to appreciate them +with any degree of exactness. Besides, sufficient time has not yet +elapsed since the establishment of the new mode of teaching, for them +to assume a marked complexion. It is, however, to be observed that, +by the death of the celebrated DÉSAULT, Surgery has sustained a loss +which is not yet repaired, nor will be perhaps for ages. + +[Footnote 1: A law to this effect is now made.] + + + +LETTER LXXIX. + +_Paris, March 12, 1802._ + +From the account I have given you of the Public Schools here, you +will have perceived that, since the revolution, nothing has been +neglected which could contribute to the mental improvement of the +male part of the rising generation. But as some parents are averse to +sending their children to these National Schools, there are now +established in Paris a great number of + +PRIVATE SEMINARIES FOR YOUTH OF BOTH SEXES. + +Several of these are far superior to any that previously existed in +France, and are really of a nature to excite admiration, when we +consider the cruel divisions which have distracted this country. But +it seems that if, for a time, instruction, both public and private, +was suspended, no sooner were the French permitted to breathe than a +sudden and salutary emulation arose among those who devoted +themselves to the important task of conducting these private schools. +The great advantage which they appear to me to have over +establishments of a similar description in England, is that the +scholars are perfectly grounded in whatever they are taught; the want +of which, among us, occasions many a youth to forget the greater part +of what he has learned long before he has attained the years of +manhood. + +If several of the schools for boys here are extremely well conducted, +some of those for girls appear to be governed with no less care and +judgment. In order to be enabled to form an opinion on the present +mode of bringing up young girls in France, I have made a point of +investigating the subject. I shall, in consequence, endeavour to shew +you the contrast which strikes me to have occurred here in + +FEMALE EDUCATION. + +In France, convents had, at all times, prior to the revolution, +enjoyed the exclusive privilege of bringing up young women; and some +families had, for a century past, preserved the habit of sending all +their daughters to be St. Ursulas, in order to enter afterwards into +the world as virtuous wives and tender mothers. The natural result +was, that, if the principles of excessive piety which had been +communicated to them remained deeply engraved in their heart, they +employed the whole day in the duties required by the catholic +religion; and the confessor who dictated all these habitual +practices, not unfrequently became the director of the temporal +concerns of the family, as well as the spiritual. If the young girls, +in emerging from the cells of a convent, were disposed to lay aside +their religious practices, in order to adopt the customs and +pleasures of the world, this sudden transition, from one extreme to +the other, made them at once abandon, not only the puerile minutiæ, +but also the sacred principles of religion. There was no medium. They +either became outrageous devotees, and, neglecting the respectable +duties of housewives and mistresses of a family, wrapped themselves +up in a great hood, and were incessantly on their knees before the +altars of the churches, or, on the other hand, rushed into +extravagance and dissipation, and, likewise, deserting a family which +claimed their care, dishonoured themselves by the licentiousness of +their manners. + +At the present time, many women of good abilities and character, +deprived of their property by the vicissitudes of the revolution, +have established, in Paris and its environs, seminaries, where young +girls receive such advice as is most useful to females who are +destined to live in the world, and acquirements, which, by employing +them agreeably several hours in the day, contribute to the interior +happiness of their family, and make them find charms in a domestic +life. In short, the superiority of female education in France is +decidedly in favour of the present system, whether considered in +regard to mental improvement, health, or beauty. With respect to the +morals inculcated in these modern French boarding schools, the best +answer to all the prejudices might be entertained against them, is +that the men, who have married women there educated, find that they +prove excellent wives, and that their accomplishments serve only to +embellish their virtues. + + + +LETTER LXXX. + +_Paris, March 14, 1802_. + +I plead guilty to your censure in not having yet furnished you with +any remarks on the origin of this capital; but you will recollect +that I engaged only to give you a mere sketch; indeed, it would +require more time and talent than I can command to present you with a +finished picture. I speak of things just as they happen to occur to +my mind; and provided my letters bring you acquainted with such +objects here as are most deserving of attention, my purpose will be +fully accomplished. However, in compliance with your pressing +request, I shall now briefly retrace the + +PROGRESSIVE AGGRANDISEMENT OF PARIS. + +Without hazarding any vague conjectures, I may, I think, safely +affirm that Cæsar is the first historian who makes mention of this +city. In the seventh book of his Commentaries, that conqueror relates +that he sent his lieutenant Labienus towards Lutetia; this was the +name given by the Gauls to the capital of the Parisii. It was then +entirely contained within that island on the Seine, which, at the +present day, is called _l'Ile du Palais_. + +In comparison to the capitals of the other provinces of Gaul, +_Lutetia_ was but a sorry village; its houses were small, of a round +form, built of wood and earth, and covered with straw and reeds. + +After having conquered _Lutetia_, the Romans embellished it with a +palace, surrounded it by walls, and erected, at the head of each of +the two bridges leading to it, a fortress, one of which stood on the +site of the prison called _Le Grand Châtelet_; and the other, on that +of _Le Petit Châtelet_. The Yonne, the Marne, and the Oise, being +rivers which join the Seine, suggested the idea of establishing a +trading company by water, in order to facilitate, by those channels, +the circulation of warlike stores and provisions. These merchants +were called _Nautæ Parisiaci_. The Romans also erected, near the left +bank of the Seine, a magnificent palace and an aqueduct. This palace +was called _Thermæ_, on account of its tepid baths. + +Julian, being charged to defend Gaul against the irruptions of the +barbarians, took up his residence in these _Thermæ_ in 360, two years +before he was proclaimed emperor, in the square which was in front of +this palace. "I was in winter-quarters in my dear _Lutetia_," says he +in his _Misopogon_. "Thus is named, in Gaul, the little capital of +the Parisii."--"It occupies," observes Abbon, "an inconsiderable +island, surrounded by walls, the foot of which is bathed by the +river. The entrance to it, on each side, is by a wooden bridge." + +Towards the middle of the fifth century, this city passed from the +dominion of the Romans to that of the Francs. It was besieged by +Childeric I. In 508, Clovis declared it the capital of his kingdom. +The long stay which that prince made in it, contributed to its +embellishment. Charlemagne founded in it a celebrated school. A +little time after, another was established in the abbey of _St. +Germain-des-Prés_. In the course of the ninth century, it was +besieged and pillaged three times by the Normans. + +Philip Augustus surrounded Paris with walls, and comprised in that +inclosure a great number of small towns and hamlets in its vicinity. +This undertaking occupied twenty years, having been begun in 1190, +and finished in 1211. The same king was also the first who caused the +streets of this city to be paved. The wars of the English required +new fortifications; and, under king John, ditches were dug round the +city; and the _Bastille_, erected. These works were continued during +the reigns of Charles V and Charles VI. + +Francis I, the restorer of literature and of the arts, neglected +nothing that might conduce to the farther embellishment of this +capital. He caused several new streets to be made, many Gothic +edifices to be pulled down, and was, in France, the first who revived +Greek architecture, the remains of which, buried by the hand of time, +or mutilated by that of barbarians, being collected and compared at +Rome, began to improve the genius of celebrated artists, and, in the +sequel, led to the production of masterpieces. + +The kings, his successors, executed a part of the projects of that +prince, and this extensive city imperceptibly lost its irregular and +Gothic aspect. The removal of the houses, which, not long since, +encumbered the bridges, and intercepted the current of air, has +diffused cheerfulness and salubrity. + +You will pardon me, I trust, if I here make a retrograde movement, +not to recapitulate the aggrandisement of Paris, but to retrace +rapidly the progressive amelioration of the manners of its +inhabitants. The latter paved the way to the former. + +Under the first kings of France of the third race, justice was +administered in a summary way; the king, the count, and the viscount +heard the parties, and gave a prompt sentence, or else left the +controversy to be decided by a pitched battle, if it was of too +intricate a nature. No colleges then existed here; the clergy only +keeping schools near the Cathedral of _Notre-Dame_ for those who were +intended for holy orders. The nobles piqued themselves on extreme +ignorance, and as many of them could not even sign their own name, +they dipped their glove in ink, and stamped it on the parchment as +their signature. They lived on their estates, and if they were +obliged to pass three or four days in town, they affected to appear +always in boots, in order that they might not be taken for _vassals_. +Ten men were sufficient for the collection of all the taxes. There +were no more than two gates to the city; and under Lewis surnamed _le +Gros_, from his corpulency, the duties at the north gate produced no +more than twelve francs a year. + +Philip Augustus, being fond of literature, welcomed and protected men +of learning. It had appeared to revive under Charlemagne; but the +ravages of the Normans occasioned it to sink again into oblivion till +the reign of Lewis the Young, father of Philip Augustus. Under the +latter, the schools of Paris became celebrated; they were resorted +to, not only from the distant provinces, but from foreign countries. +The quarter, till lately called _l'Université_, became peopled; and, +in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, was covered by colleges +and monasteries. Philip the Fair rendered the Parliament sedentary. +He prohibited duelling in civil contentions; and a person might have +recourse to a court of justice, without being under the necessity of +fighting. Anne de Bretagne, great and majestic in every thing, was +desirous of having a court. Ladies who, till then, were born in one +castle only to marry and die in another, came to Paris. They were +unwilling to leave it, and men followed them thither. All these +circumstances increased its inhabitants to a thirtieth part beyond +their former number. + +The wars of religion under Charles IX and Henry III rendered gold and +silver a little more common, by the profanations of the Calvinists, +who pillaged the churches, and converted into specie the sacred +vases, as well as the shrines and statues of saints. The vast sums of +money which the court of Spain lavished in Paris, to support the +League, had also diffused a certain degree of affluence among no +inconsiderable number of citizens; and it is to be remarked that, +under Henry IV, several handsome streets were finished in less than a +year. + +Henry IV was the first of the kings of France who embellished Paris +with regular squares, or open spaces, decorated with the different +orders of architecture. After having nearly finished the _Pont Neuf_, +he built the _Place Royale_, now called _Place des Fédérés_, and also +the _Place Dauphine_. + +Towards the end of the administration of Cardinal Richelieu, there no +longer existed in France more than one master; and the petty tyrants +in the provinces, who had fortified themselves so long in their +castles against the royal authority, were seen to come to court, to +solicit the most paltry lodging with all the servility of courtiers, +and at the same time erect mansions in town with all the splendour of +men inflated by pride and power. At last came the reign of Lewis XIV, +and presently Paris knew no limits. Its gates were converted into +arcs of triumph, and its ditches, being filled up and planted with +trees, became public walks. When one considers the character of that +monarch, it should seem that Paris ought to have been more +embellished under his reign. In fact, had Lewis XIV expended on Paris +one-fourth part of the money which he lavished on Versailles,[1] it +would have become the most astonishing city in Europe. + +However, its great extent and population, magnificent edifices, +celebrated national establishments of learning and science, rich +libraries, curious cabinets, where lessons of knowledge and genius +present themselves to those who have a taste for them, together with +its theatres and other places of public entertainment, have long +rendered Paris deserving of the admiration of enlightened nations. + +Before the revolution, Paris contained 46 parish churches, and 20 +others answering the same purpose, 11 abbeys, and 133 monasteries or +convents of men and women, 13 colleges, 15 public seminaries, and 26 +hospitals. To these must be added the three royal habitations, the +_Louvre_, the _Tuileries_, and the _Luxembourg_, also the _Hôtel des +Invalides_, the _Palais Royal_, the _Palais Bourbon_, and a great +number of magnificent hotels, inhabited by titled or wealthy persons. + +Since the revolution, several of these buildings have been destroyed; +almost all the monasteries and convents, together with the churches +belonging to them, have been sold as national property, and either +demolished for the sake of the materials, or converted to different +uses. Fifteen principal churches, besides the _Pantheon_, the +_Invalides_, _Val-de-Grace_, the _Sorbonne_, and a few others, were +preserved as national temples, intended for the celebration of +_decadary fétes_, and for a time rendered common to every sort of +worship. Most of the old churches were of Gothic architecture, and +not much to be commended with respect to art; but several of them +were models of boldness, from the lightness of their construction. + +The colleges, as I have before observed, are replaced by public +schools and private seminaries of every description. The number of +the houses in Paris, many of which are from five to eight stories in +height, has been estimated at upwards of 80,000. The number of its +inhabitants appears to have been over-rated. By an official +statement, in which foreigners are not included, it contains no more +than 630,000 souls. + +During the last year of the republican era, the number of males born +in Paris was 9296; and that of females, 9177; making the general +total of births 18,473, of which the males, born out of wedlock, +amounted to 1792; and the females, to 1852. The number of persons +deceased, within the same period, was 10,446 males, and 10,301 +females; making together 20,747. The annual decrease in population +was consequently 2274 souls. The number of marriages was 3826; and +that of divorces, 720; which is nearly 2 out of 11. + +The ancient division of Paris consisted of three parts; namely, _La +Cité_, _l'Université_, and _La Ville_. _La Cite_ comprised all the +_Ile du Palais_. This is the parent-stock of the capital, whence have +extended, like so many branches, the numerous quarters by which it is +surrounded. _L'Université_ was bordered by the Seine, the _Faubourg +St. Bernard_, _St. Victor_, _St. Marcel_, _St. Jacques_, and the +_Faubourg St. Germain_. The number of colleges in this quarter, had +obtained it the name of _Le Pays Latin_. _La Ville_ comprehended all +the rest of the capital, not included in the suburbs. + +At present, Paris is divided into twelve mayoralties (as you will see +by the _Plan_), each of which is presided by a central office of +municipal police. The _Faubourgs_ retain their ancient names; but +those of many of the streets have been changed in the course of the +revolution. The _Chaussée d'Antin_, which comprises the new streets +north of the _Boulevard Italien_, is now the most fashionable part of +the town. The houses here are chiefly inhabited by bankers and +persons living in affluence; and apartments in this neighbourhood are +considerably dearer than in the _Faubourg St. Germain_, which, +comparatively speaking, is deserted. + +I have already described the _Porte St. Denis_ and the _Porte St. +Martin_, which are nothing more than arcs of triumph. In proportion +as the limits of the capital became extended, the real gates were +removed, but reappeared under the name of _barrières_. These costly +edifices were constructed during the ministry of CALONNE, under the +direction of LEDOUX, the architect, who has taken a pleasure in +varying their form and character. One represents an observatory; +another, a chapel; some have the appearance of rusticated buildings; +others, that of temples. Under the old _régime_ too, the +farmers-general had inclosed Paris with a high wall, the extent of +which has been estimated at upwards of 10,000 toises. This wall +displeased the eye of the Parisians, and, when they were out of +humour, induced them to murmur loudly. Whence the following +_jeu de mots_: + + _"Le mur, murant Paris, rend Paris murmurout."_ + +During the revolution, it was by no means uncommon to shut the +_barrières_, in order to serve the purposes of party, and favour the +arrest of particular persons. To the number of sixty, they are placed +at the principal outlets of the suburbs, and occupied by custom-house +officers, whose business is to collect duties, and watch that no +contraband goods find their way into the city. Formerly, when every +carriage entering Paris was stopped and examined (which is not the +case at present), the self-importance of these _commis des barrières_ +could be equalled only by their ignorance. + +A traveller arriving from Egypt brought with him a mummy. The case +being long, he chose not to fasten it on to his post-chaise, but sent +it to Paris by water. When it was landed at the _barrière_, the +custom-house officers opened it, and, finding it to contain a +black-looking body, decided that this was a man who had been baked +in an oven. They took the linen bandages for his burnt shirt, and, +after drawing up a _procès-verbal_ in due form, sent the mummy to +the _Morne_, where dead bodies are exposed in order to be owned. +When the proprietor reached Paris, he went to the _barrière_ to +claim his mummy. The _commis_ listened to him and stared at him with +astonishment. He grew angry, and at length broke out into a violent +passion; when one of the searchers, in a whisper, advised him to +decamp, if he wished to avoid the gallows. The traveller, stupified, +was obliged to apply to the Minister of the Police, and, with some +difficulty, recovered from the _Morne_ his Egyptian prince or +princess, who, after having been preserved 2000 years, was on the +point of being buried in a catholic cemetery, instead of figuring in +a cabinet of curiosities. + +[Footnote 1: The article of lead alone for the water-pipes cost +thirty-two millions of livres or £1,333,333 sterling; but + + "Rich in her weeping country's spoils, Versailles! + May boast a thousand fountains, that can cast + The tortur'd waters to the distant heav'ns"--] + + + +LETTER LXXXI. + +_Paris, March 17, 1802._ + +An object which must infallibly strike the eye of the attentive +observer, who has not visited this capital within the last ten years,g +is the change in the style of + +FRENCH FURNITURE. + +This remark may, at first sight, appear trivial; but a second view of +the subject will produce reflections on the frivolity of this people, +even amidst their intestine commotions, and at the same time shew +that they are, in no small degree, indebted to the influence of those +events for the taste which is to be distinguished in the new +productions of their industry, and, in general, for the progress they +have made, not only in the mechanical arts, but also in the sciences +of every description. This will appear the more extraordinary, as it +should seem natural to presume that the persecution which the +protectors of the arts and sciences experienced, in the course of the +revolution, was likely to produce quite a contrary effect. But the +man of science and the artist, each abandoned to himself, acquired, +in that forlorn situation, a knowledge and a taste which very +frequently are the result of long study only, seconded by +encouragement from the wealthy. + +The apartments of the fine ladies, of the rich, of the bankers, and +merchants in Paris, and generally speaking, of all those who, from +their business and connexions, have most intercourse with the public +and with foreigners, are furnished in the modern mode, that is, in +the antique taste. Many of the French artists, being destitute of +employment, were compelled through necessity to seek it; some entered +into the warehouse of the upholsterer to direct the shape and +disposition of his hangings; some, into the manufactory of the +paper-maker to furnish him with new patterns; and others, into the +shop of the cabinet-maker to sell him sketches of antique forms. Had +the easels of these artists been occupied by pictures no sooner +finished than paid for, the Grecian bed would not have expelled the +_lit à la Polonaise_, in vogue here before the revolution; the +Etruscan designs would not have succeeded to the Chinese paper; nor +would the curtains with Persian borders have been replaced by that +elegant drapery which retraces the pure and simple taste of the +people of Attica. + +The elegant forms of the modern French _secrétaires_, commodes, +chairs, &c. have also been copied from the Greeks and Romans. The +ornaments of these are either bronzed or gilt, and are uncommonly +well finished. In general, they represent heads of men, women, and +animals, designed after the antique. Caryatides are sometimes +introduced, as well as Egyptian attributes; the arms of the chairs +being frequently decorated with sphinxes. In short, on entering the +residence of a _parvenu_, you would fancy yourself suddenly +transported into the house of a wealthy Athenian; and these new +favourites of Fortune can, without crossing the threshold of their +own door, study chaste antiquity, and imbibe a taste for other +knowledge, connected with it, in which they are but little versed. + +Mahogany is the wood employed for making these modern articles of +furniture, whose forms are no less varied than elegant; advantages +which cause them to be preferred to the ancient. But the latter, +though heavy in their construction, are, nevertheless, thought, by +some persons, superior to the former in point of solidity and +convenience. The old-fashioned bedsteads and chairs are generally of +oak, painted or gilt, and are covered with silk or tapestry of +different patterns. The _ci-devant_ nobles appear to be greatly +attached to them, and preserve them as monuments, which supply the +place of the titles and parchments they were forced to burn during +the sanguinary periods of the revolution. But this taste is not +exclusive; several of the Parisian _bourgeois_, either from economy, +or from a wish to appear to have belonged to that class, shew no less +eagerness to possess these spoils of the _noblesse_, as furniture for +their apartments. + +While I am speaking of furniture, it naturally occurs to me that I +have not yet taken you to visit + +LES GOBELINS. + +This national manufactory, which is situated in the _Faubourg St. +Marcel_, takes its name from two famous Flemish dyers, who settled in +Paris under Francis I. In 1662, COLBERT purchased part of the old +premises where the _Gobelins_ had carried on their business, and +there opened an establishment under the direction of LE BRUN. It was +not confined to the manufacture of tapestry only, but was composed of +painters, sculptors, engravers, goldsmiths, watch-makers, lapidaries, +and other artists and workmen of almost every description, whose +pupils and apprentices here acquired their freedom. + +Since the revolution, tapestry alone is manufactured here, on two +sorts of looms, distinguished by the denominations of _haute_ and +_basso lisse_, which are fully explained in an interesting _Notice_, +published by the intelligent director, GUILLAUMOT, who, it seems, has +introduced into each of these branches several recent improvements. + +The art of making tapestry originated in England and Flanders, where +the cartoons of RAPHAEL and JULIO ROMANO were coarsely copied. It was +gradually improved in France, and is now brought here to the greatest +perfection. Indeed, a piece of _Gobelin_ tapestry may be called a +picture painted with wool and silk; but its admirable execution +produces an illusion so complete, that skilful painters have been +seen to lay their hands on this tapestry, to convince themselves that +it was not a real painting. + +Tapestry is now entirely out of fashion; and, with the exception of a +few small fancy-pieces, the productions of this manufactory are +intended solely for the decoration of the national palaces and other +public buildings. In 1790 the blood-thirsty MARAT strove hard to +annihilate this establishment, by exaggerating the expenses of its +maintenance. In 1789, their real amount was 144,000 francs; 116 +journeymen and 18 apprentices were then employed, and paid in +proportion to their merit and to the quantity of work they performed. +In 1791, they were divided into classes, and paid by the day. This +regulation produces less work, but its execution is more perfect, +since no motive of interest induces the workman to neglect his +performance. At present, its expenses cannot be so great, as the +number of persons employed is less than 100. Should the penury of the +finances not allow the means of re-establishing pupils, this +manufactory will be extinguished like a lamp for want of oil. Twenty +years are necessary to make a good manufacturer of tapestry; those of +the first abilities are now nearly 70 years of age, and therefore it +seems high time to prepare for them competent successors. + +At _Chaillot_, we shall find another national manufactory, somewhat +analogous to the former, and which also claims the attention of the +curious observer. From having been fixed in a place originally +occupied by a soap-house, it is called + +LA SAVONNERIE. + +It was established, as far back as 1615, at the instigation of PIERRE +DUPONT, who, being forced to quit his native land by the civil +commotions arising from the League, went to the Levant. Having seen +carpets made without taste or design in that country, he conceived +the idea of introducing a manufactory of this kind into France, where +it would be susceptible of considerable improvement from the exercise +of the arts unknown in Turkey. The project was approved by Henry IV, +who first gave DUPONT an establishment in the _Louvre_, which was +afterwards transferred to its present situation. + +Like the _Gobelins_, the national manufactory of the _Savonnerie_ is, +and has been, constantly supported by the government, and like it +too, contributes to the decoration of the national palaces, &c. +Nothing, in the shape of carpets, can answer this purpose better than +those manufactured here, the colours of which are extremely +brilliant. The close, velvety texture of the manufacture gives a +peculiar expression to objects which are copied from nature, such as +the hair of animals, the down of fruit, and the lustre of flowers. + +From its foundation till the year 1789, this manufactory continued to +be under the direction of a contractor, who delivered the carpeting +to the government at the rate of 220 francs per square ell. At the +revolution, new regulations were established; the workmen were paid +by the day, and classed according to their merit. In consequence, +though less work is performed, it is executed with greater +perfection. + +The present government has lately ordered the old patterns, which +were overloaded with ornaments and flowers, to be suppressed, and +replaced by compositions more simple, more elegant, and infinitely +more tasteful. I understand that the workmen are to be put to +task-work, under the superintendance of the respectable administrator +DUVIVIER, who informs me that the present price of this carpeting +amounts to 300 francs per square _mètre_ (_circa_ 3 ft. 3 inc. +English measure). In 1789, thirty persons were employed here, at from +30 to 50 _sous_ a day. At present, there are no more than twenty, who +daily earn, on an average, 3 francs, and are lodged in the buildings +of the manufactory. + +Before I lay down my pen, I shall notice a national establishment, +equally connected with the subject of this letter; I mean the + +MANUFACTORY OF PLATE-GLASS. + +Like all the other French manufactories, this has suffered from the +revolution and the war; but it has now nearly resumed its former +activity, owing to the effects of the peace and the laudable +exertions of the government to revive commerce. At this time, it +gives employment to about 600 persons. + +Before COLBERT founded the present establishment, which is situated +in the _Rue de Reuilli_, _Faubourg St. Antoine_, the French drew +their plate-glass from Venice; but they have left their masters in +this branch very far behind them, and now make mirrors of dimensions +of which the Venetians had no idea. These plates are cast at St. +Gobin, near La Fère, in the department of L'Aisne, and sent to Paris +to be polished and silvered. Here you may witness the process +employed in each of these different operations. + +A method of joining together two small plates of glass in such a +manner that no mark appears, has, I am informed, been lately +discovered in Paris. It is said, however, not to be applicable to +those of large dimensions. After the operation of this species of +soldering, the plates are silvered. + + + +LETTER LXXXII. + +_Paris, March 19, 1802._ + +As the period of my stay here is drawing rapidly towards a +conclusion, I find much less leisure for writing; otherwise I should, +in my last letter, have made you acquainted with an establishment not +irrelevant to the leading subject of it, and which, when completed, +cannot fail to attract general notice and admiration. + +Every one has heard of the PIRANESI. In the year 1800, PIETRO and +FRANCESCO, the surviving sons of the celebrated GIOVANNI-BATTISTA, +transported to France their immense collection of drawings, with all +their plates and engravings. They were welcomed, protected, and +encouraged by the French government. Anxious to give to these +ingenious artists every facility for the success of an undertaking +that they had conceived, it has granted to them the spacious and +handsome premises of the _ci-devant Collège de Navarre_, in the _Rue +de la Montagne St. Geneviève_, which the PIRANESI will shortly open +as an + +ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS. + +That ancient college is extremely well calculated for such a +destination, from the extent of its buildings, its remoteness from +noise, and the airiness of its situation. By this liberal conduct to +the PIRANESI, the French government has shewn the warm interest it +takes in the progress of those arts. The establishment of these +Romans is to be divided into three branches. The first is placed in +the _Collège de Navarre_; the second is to be in the _Palais du +Tribunat_; and the third, at _Morfontaine_. + +Three hundred artists of different nations, some of whom are known by +master-pieces, while others announce the genius necessary for +producing them, are to be distributed in the seven classes of this +academy, which include the fine arts of every description. Each +artist being at liberty to follow the branch to which he is most +partial, it may easily be conceived how noble an emulation will be +roused by such an assemblage of talents. Several are now employed +here in the workshops of Painting, Sculpture, Mosaic, and Engraving. +Let us see in what manner. + +The ground-floor is devoted to Sculpture. Here are made, in plaster +and terra cotta, models of the finest monuments of Greece and Italy, +which are executed in stone of the richest species, such as porphyry, +granite, red antique, Parian and Carrara marble. From the hands of +the two CARDELLI, and other eminent artists, are seen to issue copies +of the most magnificent bas-reliefs of ancient Rome, and the most +beautiful friezes of RAPHAEL, MICHAEL ANGELO, JULIO ROMANO, and other +great masters of the Italian school; tripods, obelisks, antique +vases, articles of furniture in the Egyptian and Chinese taste, +together with objects taken from nature, such as the most curious +animals in the national _ménagerie_, likewise occupy their talents. +All these subjects are executed in different sizes, and form, +together or separately, decorations for apartments or tables, +particularly pilasters, and plateaux, in which the richness of the +materials is surpassed by that of the workmanship. + +On the same floor is the workshop of Mosaic. It is under the +direction of BELLONI, who has invented methods, by means of which he +has introduced Mosaic into articles of furniture, and for the +pavement of rich apartments, at prices far inferior to what might be +imagined. The principal articles here exhibited, as specimens, are: +--1. Superb marble tables and stands, in which are inserted ornaments +and pictures in Mosaic, or incrustated in the Florentine manner--2. A +large pavement, where the beauty and variety of the marbles are +relieved by embellished incrustations--3. Small pictures, in which +the painting, in very fine Mosaic, is raised on an even ground of one +piece of black marble--4. Large tables, composed of specimens of +fine-grained stones, such as jasper, agate, carnelion, lapis lazuli, +&c. and also of valuable marbles, distributed into compartments and +after a design imitated from the antique, and enriched with a few +incrustated pictures, representing animals and flowers. Besides +these, here are to be seen other essays of a kind entirely new. These +are marbles, intended for furniture, coloured in an indelible manner. +Sometimes the figures and ornaments in them are coloured in the +ground; sometimes they are in colour, but raised on a ground of white +marble. + +On the first story is the workshop for Engraving. Here the artists +are employed in engraving the seven hills of Rome, ancient circuses +of that celebrated city, plans of the _forum_, obelisks of Rome and +Egypt, ruins of Pompeia, drawn on the spot by the late J. B. +PIRANESI, together with modern subjects, such as the splendid +edifices of Paris, the beautiful views of the environs, the national +fêtes, and every thing that can deservedly interest artists and +persons of taste. On the same story are the plates of the PIRANESI +calcography, the place where they are printed, and the warehouse +where they are deposited. The engravings, now nearly executed, will +form upwards of twenty volumes; and those begun will equal that +number. + +The second story is occupied by painters in oil-colours; the third, +by those in water-colours; the fourth, by draughtsmen in Indian ink +and bistre; and the fifth serves for the lodging of the artists, +particularly the most skilful among them, who direct the different +branches of this establishment. The principal pile of building is +crowned by a _Belvedere_, which commands an extensive view of Paris, +and seems calculated for promoting the inspirations of genius. Here +are copied, in oil, water-colours, Indian ink and bistre, the fresco +paintings of RAPHAEL, MICHAEL ANGELO, and JULIO ROMANO; the Vatican, +the Farnesian palace, the Villa Altoviti, and the Villa Lante +alternately furnishing models no less happily chosen than carefully +executed. The antiquities of Herculaneum, so interesting from the +knowledge they afford us of the customs of the ancient Romans, and +from the elegant decorations of which they have procured us the +models, the ruins of Palmyra and Balbeck, those of Greece and Sicily, +together with views of Constantinople and of the country in which it +is situated, are here rendered with the most exact truth, joined to +the most harmonious colouring. Here too are represented; in the three +manners before-mentioned, views and sites of Egypt, Greece, Italy, +France, and all other countries; cascades, such as those of TERNI, +NARNI, and TIVOLI; sea-pieces; landscapes, parks; and gardens; +arabesques after RAPHAEL; new and picturesque plants; in a word, +decorations formed of an assemblage of every thing most perfect in +art and nature. + +On the first and second stories are also two exhibition-rooms, for +such pictures and works of sculpture as are finished, where the eye +wanders agreeably amidst a crowd of objects of an enlivening or +serious nature. Here it is that the amateur, after having seen the +artists at work in the classes of this academy, fixes his choice on +the kind of production which most takes his fancy. These two rooms +contain the different articles which are afterwards to be displayed +in the two porticos of the _Palais du Tribunat_. + +Those elegant and spacious porticos, situated in the most centrical +part of Paris, facing the _Rue St. Honoré_, have likewise been +granted to the PRIANESI through the special favour of the government. +Not only all the productions of their establishment, but also the +principal master-pieces in painting, sculpture, and architecture, +produced by artists of all nations, will there be exhibited; so that +those porticos will present, as it were, an Encyclopædia of the Fine +Arts.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The principal protector of the undertaking of the +PIRANESI is JOSEPH BONAPARTE, who has not confined himself to +assisting them in the capital. Being desirous to introduce the arts +into the country where he passes the finest season of the year, and +to promote the discovery of the PIRANESI, relative to the properties +of the argill found at _Morfontaine_, he has given to them for +several years the use of a large building and a very extensive piece +of ground, ornamented with bowers, where all the subjects modelled at +the _Collège de Navarre_, in _terra cotta_ or in porcelain of +_Morfontaine_, undergo the process of baking. In the last-mentioned +place, the PIRANESI purpose to establish a foundery for sculpture in +bronze and other metals. The government daily affords to them +encouragement and resources which insure the success of their +establishment. To its other advantages are added a library, and a +printing-office.] + + + +LETTER LXXXIII. + +_Paris, March 22, 1802._ + +As to the mechanical arts, if you are desirous to view some of the +modern improvements and inventions in that line, you must accompany +me to the _Rue St. Martin_, where, in the _ci-devant_ priory, is an +establishment of recent date, entitled the + +CONSERVATORY OF ARTS AND TRADES. + +Here is a numerous collection of machines of every description +employed in the mechanical arts. Among these is the _belier +hydraulique_, newly invented by MONTGOLFIER, by means of which a +stream of water, having a few feet of declivity, can be raised to the +top of a house by a single valve or sucker, so disposed as to open, +to admit the water, and shut, when it is to be raised by compression. +By increasing the compression, it can be raised to 1000 feet, and may +be carried to a much greater elevation. The commissioners appointed +by the Institute to examine this machine, reported that it was new, +very simple, very ingenious, and might be extremely useful in turning +to account little streams of water for the purposes of agriculture, +manufactories, &c. + +This reminds me of another singular hydraulic machine, of which I +have been informed by a person who attended a trial made of it not +long since in Paris. + +A basin placed at the height of twenty feet, was filled with water, +the fall of which set in motion several wheels and pumps that raised +the water again into the basin. The machine was fixed in a place, +glazed on all sides, and locked by three different keys. It kept in +play for thirty-two days, without the smallest interruption; but the +air, the heat, and the wood of the machine, having undoubtedly +diminished the water, it no longer ascended into the basin. Till the +thirty-second day, many persons imagined that the perpetual motion +had been discovered. However, this machine was extremely light, well +combined, and very simple in its construction. I ought to observe +that it neither acted by springs nor counterpoise; all its powers +proceeding from the fall of the water. + +The conservatory also contains several models of curious buildings, +too numerous to mention. + +The mechanical arts in France appear to have experienced more or less +the impulse given to the sciences towards the close of the eighteenth +century. While calamities oppressed this country, and commerce was +suspended, the inventive and fertile genius of the French was not +dormant. + +The clothiers have introduced woollen articles manufactured on a new +plan; and their fine broad cloths and kerseymeres have attained great +perfection. The introduction of the Spanish merinos into France has +already produced in her wools a considerable amelioration. + +Like a phoenix, Lyons is reviving from its ashes, and its silks now +surpass, if possible, their former magnificence. Brocaded silk is at +present made in a loom worked by one man only, in lieu of two, which +the manufacture of that article hitherto demanded. Another new +invention is a knitting-loom, by means of which 400 threads are +interwoven with the greatest exactness, by merely turning a winch. + +The cotton manufactures are much improved, and the manufactories in +that line are daily increasing in number and perfection. A new +spinning-machine has produced here, I am told, 160,000 ells in length +out of a pound of cotton. The fly-shuttle is now introduced into most +of the manufactories in this country, and 25 pieces of narrow goods +are thus made at once by a single workman. In adopting ARKWRIGHT'S +system, the French have applied it to small machines, which occupy no +more room than a common spinning-wheel. + +Among other branches in which the French mechanics have particularly +distinguished themselves, since the revolution, is the making of +astronomical and philosophical instruments. + +All the machines used here in coining have also been modified and +improved. By one of these, the piece is struck at the same time on +the edge and on the flat side in so perfect a manner, that the money +thus coined cannot he counterfeited. + +I have already mentioned the invention of a composition which +supplies the place of black lead for pencils, and the discovery of a +new and very expeditious method of tanning leather. + +New species of earthen-ware have been invented, and those already +known have received considerable improvement. + +Chemists have put the manufacturers in possession of new means of +decomposing and recomposing substances. Muriat of tin is now made +here with such economy, that it is reduced to one-eighth of its +former price. This salt is daily used in dying and in the manufacture +of printed calicoes. Carbonates of strontia and of baryt, obtained by +a new process, will shortly be sold in Paris at 3 francs the +_kilogramme_. This discovery is expected to have a great influence on +several important arts, such as the manufacture of glass, of soap, +&c. + +Articles of furniture, jewellery, and every branch dependent on +design, are now remarkable for a purer taste than that which they +formerly exhibited. + +Indeed, the characteristic difference of the present state of French +industry, and that in which it was before the revolution, is that +most of the proprietors of the manufactories have received a +scientific education. At that time, many of them were strangers to +the principles applicable to the processes of their art; and, in this +respect, they lay at the mercy of the routine, ignorance, and caprice +of their workmen. At present, the happy effects of instruction, more +widely-diffused, begin to be felt, and, in proportion as it is +extended, it excites a spirit of emulation which promises no small +advantage to French commerce. + + + +LETTER LXXXIV. + +_Paris, March 23, 1802._ + +In the richness of her territory, the abundance of her population, +the activity of her inhabitants, and the knowledge comprised in her +bosom, France possesses great natural advantages; but the effect +which they might have produced on her industry, has been counteracted +by the errors of her old government, and the calamities attendant on +the revolution. Some public-spirited men, thinking the moment +favourable for restoring to them all their influence, have lately +met; and from this union has sprung the + +SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL INDUSTRY. + +It is formed on a scale still more extensive than the _Society for +the encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce_, instituted at +London. Its meetings are held in the _Louvre_; but, though fixed in +the metropolis, it embraces the whole extent of the Republic, and +every department will participate in the benefits which it proffers. + +The chief objects of this society are: To collect, from all quarters, +discoveries and inventions useful to the progress of the arts; to +bestow annually premiums and gratuitous encouragements; to propagate +instruction, by disseminating manuals on different objects relative +to the arts, by combining the lights of theory with the results of +practice, and by constructing at its own expense, and disseminating +among the public in general, and particularly in the manufactories, +such machines, instruments, and apparatus as deserve to be more +generally known and brought into use; to make essays and experiments +for ascertaining the utility which may be expected from new +discoveries; to make advances to artists who may be in distress, or +deficient in the means to put in practice the processes of their +inventions; to unite by new ties all such persons as from their +situation in life, their taste, or their talents, feel an interest in +the progress of the arts; to become the centre of similar +institutions, which are called for in all the principal +manufacturing-towns of the Republic; in a word, to _excite emulation, +diffuse knowledge, and assist talents_. + +To attain these objects, various committees, consisting of men the +most conversant in knowledge relative to the arts, are already +appointed, and divide among them _gratuitously_ the whole of the +labour. + +This society, founded, on principles so purely patriotic, will, no +doubt, essentially second the strenuous efforts of the government to +reanimate the different branches of national industry. The free and +spontaneous concurrence of the men of whom it is composed, may unite +the power of opinion to that of other means; and public opinion +produces naturally that which power and authority obtain only by a +slow and difficult progress. + +But, while those branches of industry, more immediately connected +with the arts, are stimulated by these simultaneous encouragements, +that science, on the practice of which depends the welfare of States, +is not neglected. Independently of the Council of Agriculture, +Commerce and Arts, established under the presidency of the Minister +of the Interior, here is a + +FREE SOCIETY OF AGRICULTURE. + +Its object is to improve agriculture, not only in the department of +La Seine, but throughout France. For this purpose, it maintains a +regular correspondence with all the agricultural societies of the +other departments. It publishes memoirs, in which are inserted the +results of its labours, as well as the notices and observations read +at the meetings by any one of its members, and the decision which has +followed. + +Every year it proposes prizes for the solution of some question +important to the amelioration of agriculture. + +What, at first view, appears extraordinary, is not, on that account, +less founded on truth. Amidst the storms of the revolution, +agriculture has been improved in France. At a period of happiness and +tranquillity, the soil was not so well cultivated as in times of +terror and mourning; because, during the latter, the lands enjoyed +the franchises so long wanted. Hands never failed; for, when the men +marched to the armies, women supplied their place; and no one was +ashamed to handle the spade or the plough. + +However, if, in 1789, agriculture in France was far from a state of +prosperity, it was beginning to receive new light from the labours of +the agricultural societies. That of Paris had given a great impulse +to the culture of artificial meadows, potatoes, hemp, flax, and +fruit-trees. Practical directions, spread with profusion in the +country, had diverted the inhabitants from the routine which they had +blindly followed from generation to generation. + +Before the revolution, the French began to imitate us in gelding +their horses, and giving to their lackies, their coachmen, and their +equipages an English appearance; instead of copying us in the +cultivation of our land, and adopting the principles of our rural +economy. This want of foresight they are now anxious to repair, by +increasing their pastures, and enriching them by an extensive variety +of plants, augmenting the number of their cattle, whether intended +for subsistence or reproduction, and improving the breed by a mixture +of races well assorted, procuring a greater quantity of manure, +varying their culture so as not to impoverish the soil, and +separating their lands by inclosures, which obviate the necessity of +constantly employing herdsmen to tend their cattle. + +Agriculture has, unquestionably, suffered much, and is still +suffering in the western departments. Notwithstanding the succour +afforded by the government to rebuild and repair the deserted +cottages and barns, to supply them with men and cattle, to set the +ploughs to work, and revive industry, it is still evident that the +want of confidence which maintains the value of money at an +exorbitant rate, the love of stock-jobbing, the impossibility of +opening small loans, the excessive price of manual labour, +contributions exacted in advance, and the distress of most of the +land-owners, who are not in a condition to shew favour to their +tenants, are scourges which still overwhelm the country. But I am +credibly informed that, in general, the rural inhabitants now lend a +more attentive ear to instruction, and that prejudices have less +empire over their reason. The great landed proprietors, whom terror +had induced to fly their country, have, on recovering possession of +their patrimony, converted their parks into arable land. Others, who +are not fond of living in town, are daily repairing to their estates, +in order to superintend the cultivation of them. No one disdains the +simple title of farmer. Old publications relative to agriculture are +reprinted in a form more within reach of the capacity of the people; +though treatises on domestic animals are still much wanted. + +At Rambouillet, formerly the country-seat of the duke of Penthièvre, +is an experimental national farm. Fine cattle are now held in high +estimation. Flocks of sheep of the Spanish breed are daily +increasing; and the number of those of a pure race, already imported, +or since bred in France, exceeds 8000.[1] Wide roads, which led to +one solitary castle only, have been ploughed, and sown. The rage for +ornamental gardens and pleasure-grounds is dying away. The breeding +of horses, a branch of industry which the war and the requisition had +caused to be abandoned, is on the point of being resumed with +increased activity. It is in contemplation to establish studs, on +plans better combined and much more favourable to the object than +those which formerly existed. In short, the ardent wish of the +thinking part of the nation seems to be, that the order which the +government is endeavouring to introduce into every branch of its +administration, may determine the labourer to proportion his hire to +the current price of corn; but all these truths assembled form not +such a sketch as you may, perhaps, expect. The state of French +agriculture has never yet been delineated on a comprehensive scale, +except by Arthur Young. You must persuade him to repeat his tour, if +you wish for a perfect picture.[2] + + * * * * * + +_March 22, in continuation._ + +Most persons are acquainted with DIDOT'S stereotypic editions of the +classics, &c. which are sold here for 15 _sous_ per copy. Nothing +more simple than the plan of this mode of printing. A page is first +set up in moveable types; a mould or impression is then taken of the +page with any suitable plastic substance, and a solid page is cast +from it. The expense of a solid page exceeds not that of resetting it +in moveable types; so that, by this invention, the price of books +will be considerably reduced, and standard works will never be out of +print. Nor are these the only advantages attending the use of +stereotype; I must mention another of still greater importance. + +By the common method of printing, it is impossible ever to have +correct books. They are in the market before all their errors are +discovered; and the latest edition of a work, which ought to be the +most correct, is necessarily the most faulty; for it presents not +only the errors of that from which it was copied, but also those +peculiar to itself. Stereotypic books are printed only to answer the +extent of the demand; and errors, when discovered, being corrected in +the metal, they must, through time and attention, become immaculate; +a circumstance of infinite importance in astronomical and +mathematical tables of every description.[3] + +For elegance of printing, DIDOT is the BENSLEY of Paris; but to see a +grand establishment in this line, you must go to the _Rue de la +Vrillière_, near the _Place des Victoires_, and visit the + +PRINTING-OFFICE OF THE REPUBLIC. + +Under the title of _Imprimerie Royale_, this establishment vas +formerly placed in the galleries of the _Louvre_. Instituted by +Francis I in 1531, it was greatly enlarged and improved under Lewis +XIII and Lewis XIV. It has also been considerably augmented since its +removal, in 1791, to the hotel belonging to the late Duke of +Penthièvre, which it now occupies. + +In its present state, it may be considered as the most extensive and +most complete typographical establishment in being. Every branch +relating to typography, from the casting of the type to the article +of binding, is here united. The _dépôt_ of punches contains upwards +of 30,000 characters of all languages. Among others, here are to be +remarked, in all their primitive purity, the beautiful Greek ones of +Garamon, engraved by order of Francis I, and which served for the +editions of the Stephen, the Byzantine, &c, the oriental characters +of the Polyglot of Vitræus, and the collection of exotic characters +from the printing-office of the Propaganda. The government business +alone constantly employs one hundred presses. A much greater number +can be set to work, if wanted. + +Independently of the works concerning administration and the +sciences, which are executed here at the public cost, the government +allows authors to cause to be printed at this office, at their own +private expense, such works as, on account of their importance, the +difficulty of execution, and the particular types which they require, +are entitled to that favour. + +On applying to the director, the amateurs of typography are instantly +admitted to view this establishment, and shewn every thing +interesting in it, with that spirit of liberality which is extended +to every public institution here, and which reflects the highest +honour on the French nation. + +[Footnote 1: At the last annual sale at Rambouillet, the average +price of a good Spanish ram was no more than 412 francs or £17 +sterling. The dearest sold for 620 francs.] + +[Footnote 2: The statistical accounts of the different departments, +which are to be compiled by order of the Minister of the Interior, +will specify all the agricultural improvements. The few already +published, shew that if the population of France is somewhat +diminished in the large towns, it is considerably increased in the +country-places.] + +[Footnote 3: It is, however, to be remarked that the merit of this +invaluable invention is not due to France, but to Britain. As far +back as the year 1725, a Mr. GED, of Edinburgh, turned his thoughts +to the formation of cast letter-press plates, and, in 1736, printed a +stereotype edition of Sallust. Being opposed by a combination of +printers and booksellers, whose ignorance and prejudices he was +unable to overcome, he relinquished the prosecution of his discovery; +and thus the stereotypic art was lost to the world, till +rediscovered, in 1780, by Mr. ALEXANDER TILLOCH. In the year 1783, +Mr. TILLOCH took out a patent for it, in conjunction with Mr. FOULIS, +then printer to the University of Glasgow. They printed several books +in this manner; but it seems that they also experienced an opposition +from the booksellers, and, owing to different circumstances, have not +since availed themselves of their patent. Notwithstanding this +evidence of priority, the French dispute the invention; and the +learned CAMUS, in his "_Historical Sketch of Polytypage and +Stereotypage_," affirms, on the authority of LOTTIN, that, towards +the end of the seventeenth century, the stereotypic process was put +in practice in France, for printing the calendars prefixed to the +missals. Hence it is seen that the claim of the English is supported +by positive proof; while that of the French rests on bare assertion.] + + + +LETTER LXXXV. + +_Paris, March_ 26, 1802. + +In visiting a foreign country, and more especially its capital, the +traveller, whose object is instruction, enters into the most minute +details, in order to obtain a complete knowledge of the various +classes of its inhabitants. As Seneca justly observes, in his +epistles, what benefit can a person reap from his travels, who spends +all his time in examining the beauty and magnificence of public +buildings? Will the contemplation of them render him more wise, more +temperate, more liberal in his ideas? Will it remove his prejudices +and errors? It may amuse him for a time, as a child, by the novelty +and variety of objects, which excite an unmeaning admiration. To act +thus, adds the learned stoic, is not to travel, it is to wander, and +lose both one's time and labour. + + "_Non est hoc peregrinari, sed erraie_." + +Wherefore Horace, in imitation of Homer, says, in praise of Ulysses, + + "_Qui mores hominum multorum vidit, et urbes_." + +I have, I hope, given you enough of sights and shows; let us then, my +good friend, follow the wise example of the ancients, and take a view +of men and manners. + +Owing, in some measure, to the levity of French character, and the +freedom which now prevails generally enough in all society here, this +sort of study, sometimes so tedious, is greatly facilitated. In the +Parisian assemblies of the present day, by an almost continual +collision, self-love discovers the weak side of an individual whose +whole merit consists in a little small-talk, and a rotation of those +_jolis petits riens_, which, seconded by a well-favoured countenance +and an agreeable carriage, have given him in the world the reputation +of an amiable man; while, from another, we see a thousand essential +qualities, concealed under a coarse exterior, force themselves into +notice, and which his modesty, or more frequently his timidity, +prevented him from displaying. + +From the preceding preamble, you will naturally conclude that I +purpose to appropriate this letter to a few remarks on the + +PRESENT STATE OF SOCIETY IN PARIS. + +In this city are three very distinct kinds of society. But the order +I shall adopt in the description of each of them must not, in any +way, lead you to prejudge my opinion respecting the rank which they +hold among the French themselves. In this respect, I shall abstain +from every sort of reflection, and, confining myself to the simple +character of a faithful narrator, shall leave to your sagacity to +decide the question. + +I shall begin by the society, chiefly composed of the _ci-devant +noblesse_, several of whom, never having quitted France, have +preserved some of their property; and of emigrants, lately returned +to their own country, and who have enough remaining to allow them to +have a household establishment, but in a very modest style indeed, +compared to that which their rank and fortune enabled them to support +before the revolution. + +You present yourself at the residence of _Madame la Marquise de +C----_. In the anti-room, you declare your name and quality to the +groom of the chambers. Then, the opening of one or two folding-doors +announces to the mistress of the house, and to the company, the +_quantum_ of the ceremonies which are to be paid to the newcomer. +Keep your eye constantly on the _Marquise_, her behaviour will +regulate yours in regard to the individuals who compose her party. In +the course of conversation, take special care not to omit the title +of the person to whom you address yourself. Such an instance of +forgetfulness savours of a man of the new _régime_. Never pronounce +the new denominations respecting the divisions of the French +territory, the months, the weights, measures, &c. Those words would +draw on you an unfavourable interpretation. If you are inclined to +hear a discussion on the arts and sciences, or on any new discovery +whatever, you seldom find, in these parties, persons who can gratify +your taste; though you may meet with many who, as Locke says, "know a +little, presume a great deal, and so jump to a conclusion." + +From the plebeians, whose presence the _ci-devant_ nobles are so +condescending as to endure, much obsequiousness and servility are +required; and it is expected that the distance of rank should never +be forgotten. But the learned or scientific French revolutionist, who +admits no other distance than that between knowledge and ignorance, +not choosing to submit to such conditions, seldom presents himself at +the house of _Madame la Marquise de C----_. However, you will hear +her company speak of the court of France, of the interest which each +individual had there, and also a few anecdotes not uninteresting, and +which will furnish you with some ideas of the brilliant parties there +formed. After this discussion, one will talk to you of his regiment; +another, of his hunting establishment, of his _châteaux_, of his +estates, &c. _Chez Madame la Marquise de C----_, you will find no +inconsiderable prepossession against every thing that is not of the +old order of things, and even some exclusive pretensions to manners +which belong to those only who are real gentlemen. Yet, through all +these absurdities, you will always see good-breeding prevail in this +society, and the disposition which distinguishes a Frenchman from +other polished nations, will here break forth and present itself to +you in a striking manner. + +While speaking of the _ci-devant noblesse_, I cannot forbear to +mention the loss which those who had the happiness of her +acquaintance, have sustained by the recent death of Madame DE +CHOISEUL, the relict of the duke of that name, minister to Lewis XV. +Her virtues shed such a lustre round her, that it reached even the +monarch himself, who, when he banished her husband to Chanteloup, +wrote to him: "I should have sent you much further, but for the +particular esteem I have for Madame DE CHOISEUL, in whose health I +take no small interest." This uncommonly-respectable woman will long +be quoted and deservedly regretted, because she was modest in +greatness, beneficent in prosperity, courageous in misfortune, pure +in the vortex of corruption, solid in the midst of frivolity, as +simple in her language as she was brilliant in her understanding, and +as indulgent to others as she was superior to them in grace and +virtue. + +I shall next lead you to the house of a _parvenu_, that is, one of +those, who, from having made some successful speculations, and +possessing a conscience not overnice as to the means of fixing +Fortune, is enabled to live in the expensive style of the _ci-devant_ +court-lords and farmers-general. A letter changed in the person's +name, not unfrequently a _de_ or a _St._ added, (sometimes both) +puzzles the curious, who endeavour to discover what was formerly M. +_de St. H------_, now in the enjoyment of an annual income of a +hundred thousand francs, or £4000 sterling. + +At his house, more than any where else, etiquette is kept up with an +extraordinary minuteness; and evil tongues will tell you that it is +natural for M. _de St. H------_ to remember and avail himself of the +observations which he had it in his power to make in the place he +formerly occupied. Under his roof, you will find little of that ease +and amiableness which are to be remarked in the other societies of +Paris. Each individual is on his guard, and afraid of betraying +himself by certain expressions, which the force of habit has not yet +allowed him to forget. But if you are fond of good music, if you take +a pleasure in balls, and in the company of _femmes galantes_ or +demireps; and even if first-rate jugglers, ventriloquists, and mimics +amuse you by their skilful performances, frequent the house of M. _de +St. H------_, and every day, or at least every day that he is at +home, you will have a new entertainment. + +Between the acts, the company make their remarks, each in his own +way, on what they have just seen or heard. Afterwards, the +conversation turns on the public funds. Little is said, however, on +affairs of State, the bankruptcies of the day, and the profit which +such or such a speculation might produce. The ladies, after having +exhausted the subject of the toilet, finish by giving, as an apology +for their own conduct, the charitable enumeration of the peccadilloes +which they fancy they have remarked in other women. + +So little am I disposed for gaming, that I forgot to mention +_bouillotte_, _quinze_, and also whist and reversi, which are +introduced at all these parties. But the two last-mentioned games are +reserved for those only who seek in cards nothing more than a +recreation from the occupations of the day. At the others, gain is +the sole object of the player; and many persons sit at the +gaming-table the whole night, and, in the depth of winter even, +never leave it till the "garish sun" warns them that it is time +to withdraw. + +I have now only to introduce you at M. _B------'s_, Counsellor of +State. Here you will find the completion of the other two societies, +and a very numerous party, which affords to every one a conversation +analogous to his taste or his means. Refrain, however, from touching +on politics; the French government, still in its infancy, resembles a +young plant exposed to the inclemency of the air, and whose growth is +directed by skilful hands. This government must remove, and even +sometimes destroy every obstacle it meets with, and which may be +prejudicial to the form and direction that it thinks proper to give +to its branches and various ramifications. Beware, above all, of +speaking of the revolution. That string is too delicate to be touched +in regard to certain individuals of M. _B------'s_ party, perhaps +also in regard to himself: for the periods of the calamities which +the French have undergone are still quite recent, and the parts that +many of these persons may have acted, call to mind recollections too +painful, which, for their tranquillity, ought ever to be buried in +oblivion. And, in fact, you will always perceive, in the meetings of +this class, a harmony, apparent indeed, but which, surprises a +stranger the more, as, of all the societies in Paris, it presents to +him the greatest medley in point of the persons who compose it. + +In this society you will hear very instructive dissertations on the +sciences, sound literature, the fine arts, mechanics, and the means +of rendering useful the new discoveries, by applying them with +economy to the French manufactories, either public or private: for M. +_B------_ considers it as his duty to receive with distinction all +the _savans_, and generally all those called men of talent. In this +line of conduct, he follows the example set him by the government; +and every one is desirous to appear a Mæcenas in the eyes of +Augustus. In other respects, the house of M. _B------_ will afford +you the agreeble pastimes which you have found at M. _de St. +H------'s_. + +In Paris, however, are several other societies which, to consider +them rightly, are no more than a diminutive of those you have just +left; but which, nevertheless, are of a character sufficiently +distinct in their composition to justify their pretensions to be +classed as well as the others. This difference proceeding chiefly +from that of political opinions alone, an acquaintance with the great +societies here will enable you to select those of the middle class +which you may think proper to frequent, according to your taste, or +your manner of seeing and judging of the events of the French +revolution. Yet, you must not hence conclude that the conversation +turns chiefly on that subject in this particular class of the +Parisian societies. They concern themselves less about it perhaps +than the others, whether from the little share they have had in it, +or because they have but very indirect connexions with the +government, or lastly, and this final reason is, I believe, the most +conclusive, because a Frenchman, from the nature of his character, +ends by forgetting his misfortunes and losses, cares little for the +future, and appears desirous to enjoy the present only; following, in +that respect, the precept of La Fontaine: + + _"Jouis dès aujourd'hui, tu n'as pas tant à vivre; + Je te rebàts ce mot--car il vaut tout un livre."_ + +In truth, although, among this people, vexations and enjoyments are +almost always the result of imagination, they have preserved the +remembrance of their misfortunes only to turn to account the terrible +lessons which they have received from them, by adopting, in regard to +the present and to the future, that happy philosophy which knows how +to yield to the circumstances of the moment. This it is (you may rely +on the fact) that has contributed, more than any other cause, to +re-establish, in so short a period, the order and tranquillity which +France presents to the eyes of astonished foreigners. This it is too +that has, in a great measure, obviated the fatal consequences which +their past troubles must have made them fear for a long time to come, +and for which few remedies could be expected, especially when we +reflect on the divisions which the revolution has sown in almost +every family in this country. + +P. S. The sound of cannon, which strikes my ear at this moment, +announces the signature of the definitve treaty. In the evening, a +grand illumination will take place to celebrate the return of the +most desirable of all blessings. + + "------------O beauteous Peace! + Sweet union of a State! What else but thou + Giv'st safety, strength, and glory to a people?" + + + +LETTER LXXXVI. + +_Paris, March 28, 1802._ + +Whatever changes may have been introduced by the revolution, in one +respect at least, the Parisians still preserve towards foreigners +that urbanity for which they were remarkable half a century ago, when +Sterne paid them a visit. If you ask a shopkeeper here, of either +sex, the way to a place, perhaps at some distance, he or she neglects +the occupation of the moment to direct you, with as much solicitude +and attention as though a considerable advantage was to be the result +of the given information. It is the small sweet courtesies of life, +as that sentimental traveller remarks, which render the road of it +less rugged. + +Sometimes, indeed, a foreigner pays dearly for the civility shewn him +in Paris; but, in laying out his money, he must ever bear in mind +that the shopkeepers make no scruple to overcharge their articles to +their own countrymen, and some will not blush to take, even from +them, a third less than the price demanded. + +Soon after my arrival here, I think I mentioned to you the excessive +dearness of + +FURNISHED LODGINGS. + +Since the revolution, their price is nearly doubled, and is extremely +high in the most fashionable parts of the town, such as the _Chaussée +d'Antin_, the _Rue de la Loi_, the _Rue de la Concorde_, &c. For +strangers that know not in Paris any friend who will take the trouble +to seek for them suitable apartments, the only way to procure good +accommodation is to alight at a ready-furnished hotel, and there hire +rooms by the day till they can look about them, and please +themselves. + +For my own part, I prefer the quiet of a private lodging to the +bustle of a public hotel, and, as I have before mentioned, my +constant resource, on such occasions, has been the _Petites +Affiches_. If you go to the office where this Daily Advertiser is +published, and inspect the file, it is ten to one that you +immediately find apartments to your wishes. + +A single man may now be comfortably lodged here, in a private house +with a _porte-cochère_, at from 5 to 8 louis per month; and a small +family may be well accommodated, in that respect, at from 12 to 16 +louis. A larger party, requiring more room, may obtain excellent +apartments at from 20 louis a month upwards, according to the +situation, the conveniences, the taste and condition of the +furniture, and other contingencies. To prevent subsequent +misunderstanding, I would always recommend a written agreement. + +The English have hitherto paid dearer than other foreigners for +whatever they want in Paris, because they generally trust to their +servants, and think it beneath them to look into those matters +connected with their own comfort. But the _Milords Anglais_ are now +entirely eclipsed by the Russian Counts, who give two louis where the +English offer one. A person's expenses here, as every where else, +materially depend on good management, without which a thoughtless man +squanders twice as much as a more considerate one; and while the +former obtains no more than the common comforts of life, the latter +enjoys all its indulgences. + +With respect to the gratifications of the table, I have little to add +to what I have already said on that subject, in speaking of the +_restaurateurs_. If you choose to become a boarder, you may subscribe +at the _Hôtel du Cirque_, _Rue de la Loi_, and sit down every day in +good company for about seven louis a month; and there are very +respectable private houses, where you may, when once introduced, dine +very well for five livres a time; but, at all these places, you are +sure to meet either English or Americans; and the consequence is, +that you are eternally speaking your mother-tongue, which is a +material objection with those who are anxious to improve themselves +in the French language. For a man who brings his family to Paris, and +resides in private apartments, it might, perhaps, be more advisable +to hire a cook, and live _à l'Anglaise_ or _à la Française_, +according to his fancy. + +No conveniences have been so much improved in Paris, since the +revolution, as + +JOB AND HACKNEY CARRIAGES. + +Formerly, the _remises_ or job-carriages were far inferior to those +in use at the present day; and the old _fiacres_ or hackney-coaches +were infamous. The carriages themselves were filthy; the horses, +wretched; and the coachmen, in tatters, had more the look of beggars +than that of drivers. + +Now, not only good hackney-coaches, but chariots and cabriolets +likewise, figure here on the stands; and many of them have an +appearance so creditable that they might even be taken for private +French equipages. The regular stipulated fare of all these vehicles +is at present 30 _sous_ a _course_, and the same for every hour after +the first, which is fixed at 40 _sous_.[1] In 1789, it used to be no +more than 24. For the 30 _sous_, you may drive from one extremity of +Paris to the other, provided you do not stop by the way; for every +voluntary stoppage is reckoned a _course_. However, if you have far +to go, it is better to agree to pay 40 _sous_ per hour, and then you +meet with no contradiction. From midnight to six o'clock in the +morning, the fare is double. + +The present expense of a job-carriage, with a good pair of horses, +(including the coachman, who is always paid by the jobman) varies +from 22 to 24 louis a month, according to the price of forage. If you +use your own carriage, the hire of horses and coachman will cost you +from 12 to 15 louis, which, in 1789, was the price of a job-carriage, +all expenses included. + +Under the old _régime_, there were no stands of cabriolets.[2] These +carriages are very convenient to persons pressed for time; but it +must be confessed that they are no small annoyance to pedestrians. Of +this Lewis XV was so convinced, that he declared if he were Minister +of the Police, he would suffer no cabriolets in Paris. He thought +this prohibition beneath his own greatness. To obviate, in some +measure, the danger arising both from the want of foot-pavement, and +from the inconsiderate rapidity with which these carriages are not +unfrequently driven, it is now a law that the neck of every horse in +a cabriolet must be provided with bells, and the carriage with two +lamps, lighted after dark; yet, in spite of these precautions, and +the severity which the police exercises against those who transgress +the decree, serious accidents sometimes happen. + +Before the revolution, "_gare! gare!_" was the only warning given +here to foot-passengers. The master, in his cabriolet, first drove +over a person, the servant behind then bawled out "_gare!_" and the +maimed pedestrian was left to get up again as he was able. Such +brutal negligence now meets with due chastisement. + +At a trial which took place here the other day in a court of justice, +the driver of a cabriolet was condemned to three months imprisonment +in a house of correction, and to pay a fine of 100 francs for maiming +a carter. The horse had no bells, as prescribed by law; and the owner +of the cabriolet was, besides, condemned, in conjunction with the +driver, to pay an indemnification of 3000 francs to the wounded +carter, as being civilly responsible for the conduct of his servant. + +Notwithstanding the danger of walking in the streets of Paris, such +French women as are accustomed to go on foot, traverse the most +frequented thoroughfares in the dirtiest weather, at the same time +displaying, to the astonished sight of bespattered foreigners, a +well-turned leg, a graceful step, and spotless stockings. + +If you arrive in Paris without a servant, or (what amounts almost to +the same thing) should you bring with you a man ignorant of the +French language, you may be instantly accommodated with one or +several domestics, under the name of + +VALETS-DE-PLACE. + +Like every thing else here, the wages of these job-servants are +augmented. Formerly, their salary was 30 or 40 _sous_ a day: they now +ask 4 francs; but, if you purpose to spend a few weeks here, will be +glad to serve you for 3. Some are very intelligent; others, very +stupid. Most of them are spies of the police; but, as an Englishman +in Paris has nothing to conceal, of what consequence is it whether +his steps are watched by his own _valet-de-place_ or any other +_mouchard_? It is usual for them to lay under contribution all the +tradesmen you employ; and thus the traiteur, the jobman, &c. +contribute to augment their profits. However, if they pilfer you a +little themselves, they take care that you are not subjected to too +much imposition from others.--To proceed to a few + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +In visiting the French capital, many Englishmen are led into an +error. They imagine that a few letters of recommendation will be the +means of procuring them admission into other houses besides those of +the persons to whom these letters are addressed. But, on their +arrival in Paris, they will find themselves mistaken. The houses of +the _great_ are difficult of access, and those of the secondary class +scarcely open with more ease than they did before the revolution. If +proper attention be paid to all the letters which a stranger brings, +he may be satisfied; though the persons to whom he is recommended, +seldom think of taking him to the residence of any of their friends. +Therefore, an English traveller, who wishes to mix much in French +society, should provide himself with as many letters of +recommendation as he can possibly obtain; unless, indeed, he has a +celebrated name, which, in all countries, is the best introduction; +for curiosity prompts the higher classes to see and examine the man +who bears it. The doors of every house will be open to him, when they +are shut against other strangers, and he may soon establish an +intimacy in the first circles. To those who possess not that +advantage, a Frenchman may be induced to offer a dinner, or two, +perhaps, and return them a few formal visits. He will profess more +than he performs. In a word, he will be polite, but not familiar and +friendly. + +An Englishman, thus circumstanced, finding that he gains no ground, +and is treated with a sort of ceremony, will probably seek other +company, dine at the _restaurateurs'_, frequent the _spectacles_, and +visit the impures: for such was the life our countrymen, in general, +led in Paris before the revolution. Public amusements may, perhaps, +make him amends for the want of private society. As, from their +astonishing number, they may be varied without end, he may contrive +to pass away his evenings. His mornings will, at first, be employed, +no doubt, in visiting public curiosities; but, after he has +repeatedly surveyed these scenes of attraction, he will fail in what +ought to be the grand object of foreign travel, and return home +without having acquired a competent knowledge of the manners of the +country. He ought therefore to husband proper French acquaintances, +and keep up a constant intercourse with them, or he will run a risk +of finding himself insulated. Should indisposition confine him to the +house for a few days, every one to whom he has been recommended, will +suppose him gone, he will no longer be thought of; _ennui_ will take +possession of him, and, cursing France, he will wish himself safely +landed on the shore of Old England. + +If this is the case with an Englishman who brings letters to Paris, +what must be the situation of one who visits this capital entirely +unprovided in that respect? The banker on whom he has a letter of +credit, may invite him to a dinner, at which are assembled twenty +persons, to all of whom he is a perfect stranger. Without friends, +without acquaintances, he will find himself like a man dropped from +the clouds, amidst six or seven hundred thousand persons, driving or +walking about in pursuit of their affairs or pleasures. For want of a +proper clue to direct him, he is continually in danger of falling +into the most detestable company; and the temptations to pleasure are +so numerous and so inviting in this gay city, that it requires more +fortitude than falls to the lot of many to resist them. Consequently, +an untravelled foreigner cannot be too much on his guard in Paris; +for it will require every exertion of his prudence and discrimination +to avoid being duped and cheated. Above all, he should shun those +insinuating and subtle characters who, dexterous in administering +that delicious essence which mixes so sweetly with the blood, are +ever ready to shew him the curiosities, and introduce him into +coteries, which they will represent as respectable, and in which the +mistress of the house and her daughters will, probably, conspire to +lighten his pocket, and afterwards laugh at his credulity. + +As to the reception which the English are likely to meet with here +after the ratification of the definitive treaty, (if I may be +permitted to judge from personal experience and observation) I think +it will, in a great measure, depend on themselves. Therefore, should +any of our countrymen complain of being treated here with less +attention now than before the revolution, it will, on candid +investigation, prove to be their own fault. The essential difference +will be found to consist in the respect paid to the man, not, as +formerly, in proportion to his money, but to his social worth. The +French seem now to make a distinction between individuals only, not +between nations. Whence it results that, _cæteris paribus_, the +foreigner who possesses most the talent of making himself agreeable +in society, will here be the most welcome. Not but, in general, they +will shew greater indulgence to an Englishman, and be inclined to +overlook in him that which they would consider as highly unpardonable +in a stranger of any other country. + +On such occasions, their most usual exclamation is "_Les Anglais sont +des gens bien extraordinaires! Ma foi! ils sont inconcevables!_" And, +indeed, many Englishmen appear to glory in justifying the idea, and +_astonishing the natives_ by the eccentricity of their behaviour. But +these _originals_ should recollect that what may be tolerated in a +man of superior talent, is ridiculous, if not contemptible, in one +undistinguished by such a pretension; and that, by thus _posting_ +their absurdities to the eyes of a foreign nation, they leave behind +them an impression which operates as a real injury in regard to their +more rational countrymen. Another circumstance deserves no less +animadversion. + +In their first essay of foreign travel, our British youths generally +carry with them too ample a share of national prepossession and +presumption. Accustomed at home to bear down all before them by the +weight of their purse, they are too apt to imagine that, by means of +a plentiful provision of gold, they may lord it over the continent, +from Naples to Petersburg; and that a profuse expenditure of money +supersedes the necessity of a compliance with established forms and +regulations. Instead of making their applications and inquiries in a +proper manner, so as to claim due attention, they more frequently +demand as a right what they should rather receive as a favour. +Finding themselves disappointed in their vain conclusions, their +temper is soured; and, being too proud to retract their error, or +even observe a prudent silence, they deal out their impertinence and +abuse in proportion to the number of guineas which they may be able +to squander. Of course, they cannot but view the peculiar habits and +customs of all foreign nations with a jaundiced eye, never reflecting +that in most countries are to be found, either in a moral or a +physical sense, advantages and disadvantages in which others are +deficient. _Le_ POUR _et le_ CONTRE, as a well-known traveller +observes, _se trouvent en chaque nation_. The grand desideratum is to +acquire by travel a knowledge of this POUR _et/i> CONTRE, which, by +emancipating us from our prejudices, teaches us mutual toleration +--for, of every species of tyranny, that which is exercised on things +indifferent in themselves, is the most intolerable. Hence it is less +difficult to deprive a nation of its laws than to change its habits. + +[Footnote 1: When assignats were in circulation, a single _course en +fiacre_ sometimes cost 600 livres, which was at the rate of 10 livres +per minute. But this will not appear extraordinary, when it is known +that the depreciation of that paper-currency was such that, at one +time, 18,000 livres in assignats could be procured for a single +_louis d'or_.] + +[Footnote 2: A cabriolet is a kind of one-horse chaise, with a +standing head, and inclosed in front by a wooden flap, in lieu of one +of leather. Behind, there is a place for a footman.] + + + +LETTER LXXXVII + +_Paris, March 31, 1802._ + +If I mistake not, I have answered most of the questions contained in +your letters; I shall now reply to you on the subject of + +DIVORCE. + +The number of divorced women to be met with here, especially among +the more affluent classes, exceeds any moderate calculation. Nothing +can more clearly manifest the necessity of erecting some dike against +the torrent of immorality, which has almost inundated this capital, +and threatens to spread over all the departments. + +Before the revolution, the indissolubility of marriage in France was +supposed to promote adultery in a very great degree: the vow was +broken because the knot could not be untied. At present, divorces are +so easily obtained, that a man or woman, tired of each other, have +only to plead _incompatibility of temper_, in order to slip their +necks out of the matrimonial noose. In short, some persons here +change their wedded partner with as much unconcern as they do their +linen. Thus, the two extremes touch each other; and either of them +has proved equally pernicious to morals. + +Formerly, if a Frenchman kept a watchful eye on his wife, he was +reckoned jealous, and was blamed. If he adopted a contrary conduct, +and she was faithless, he was ridiculed. Not unfrequently, a young +miss, emerged from the cloisters of a convent, where she had, +perhaps, been sequestered, in order that her bloom might not eclipse +the declining charms of her mother, and who appeared timid, bashful, +and diffident, was no sooner married to a man in a certain rank in +life, than she shone as a meteor of extravagance and dissipation. +Such a wife thought of nothing but the gratification of her own +desires; because she considered it as a matter of course that all the +cares of the family ought to devolve by right on the husband. +Provided she could procure the means of satisfying her taste for +dress, and of making a figure in the _beau monde_, no other concerns +ever disturbed her imagination. If, at first, she had sufficient +resolution to resist the contagion of example, and not take a male +friend to her bosom, by way of lightening the weight of her connubial +chains, she seldom failed, in the end, to follow the fashion of the +day, and frequent the gaming-table, where her virtue was sacrificed +to discharge her debts of honour. + +But what have these _would-be_ republicans to allege as an excuse in +their favour? They have no convents to initiate young girls in the +arts of dissimulation; no debauched court to contaminate, by its +example, the wavering principles of the weak part of the sex, or sap +the more determined ones of those whose mind is of a firmer texture; +nor have they any friendly, sympathizing confessors to draw a spunge, +as it were, over the trespasses hid in a snug corner of their heart. +No: every one is left to settle his own account with heaven. Yet the +libertinism which at present reigns in Paris is sufficient to make a +deep impression on persons the least given to reflection. + +_Il matrimonio_, says the Italian proverb, _è un paradiso o un +inferno_. In fact, nothing can be compared to the happiness of a +married couple, united by sympathy. To them, marriage is really a +terrestrial paradise. But what more horrid than the reverse, that is, +two beings cursing the fatal hour which brought them together in +wedlock? It is a very hell on earth; for surely no punishment can +exceed that of being condemned to pass our days with the object of +our detestation. + +If the indissolubility of marriage in France was formerly productive +of such bad consequences; now that the nuptial knot can be loosened +with so much facility, there can no longer exist the same plea for +adultery. Is then this accumulation of vice less the effect of the +institution of divorce in itself, than that of the undigested law by +which it was first introduced? + +The law of divorce was, I find, projected in 1790, under the auspices +of the last Duke of Orleans, who, utterly regardless of the welfare +of the State, wished to revolutionize every thing, solely with a view +to his own individual interest. His object was to get rid of his +wife, who was a woman of strict virtue. This law was decreed on the +20th of September 1792, without any discussion whatever. On the 8th +of Nivôse and 4th of Floréal, year II, (29th of December 1794 and +24th of April 1795) the Convention decreed additional laws, all +tending to favour the impetuosity of the passions. Thus the door was +opened still wider to licentiousness and debauchery. By these laws, +an absence of six months is sufficient for procuring a divorce, and, +after the observance of certain forms, either of the parties may +contract a fresh marriage. + +It is not difficult to conceive how many hot-headed, profligate, +unprincipled persons, of both sexes, have availed themselves of such +laws to gratify their unruly passions, their resentment, their +avarice, or their ambition. Oaths, persons, or property, are, in +these cases, little respected. If a libertine finds that he cannot +possess the object of his desires on any other terms, like Sir John +Brute, in the play, he marries her, in order to go to bed to her, and +in a few days sues for a divorce. I have been shewn here a Lothario +of this description, who, in the course of a short space of time had +been married to no less than six different women. + +"Divorce," says a judicious French writer, "is a separation, the +necessity for which ought to be supported by unquestionable proofs; +otherwise, it is nothing more than a legitimate scandal." + +The French often wish to assimilate themselves to the Romans, and the +Roman laws sanctioned divorce. Let us then examine how far the +comparison can, in this respect, be supported. + +"Among the Romans," continues he, "the first who availed himself of +this privilege was Spurius Corbilius, because his wife was steril. +The second divorce was that of C. Sulpicius, because his wife had +gone abroad with her hair uncovered, and without a veil over her +head. Q. Anstitius divorced on account of having seen his wife speak +to a person of her own sex, who was reckoned loose in her conduct; +and Sempronius, because his had been to see the public entertainments +without having informed him. These different divorces took place +about a hundred years after the foundation of Rome. The Romans, after +that, were upwards of five hundred years without affording an +instance of any divorce. They then were moral and virtuous. But, at +length, luxury, that scourge of societies, corrupted their hearts; +and divorces became so frequent, that many women reckoned their age +by the number of their husbands." To this he might have added, that +several Roman ladies of rank were so lost to all sense of shame, that +they publicly entered their names among the licensed prostitutes. + +"Marriage," concludes he, "presently became nothing more than an +object of commerce and speculation; and divorce, a tacit permission +for libertinism. Can divorce among the French, be considered +otherwise, when we reflect that this institution, which seemed likely +to draw closer the conjugal tie, by restoring it to its state of +natural liberty, is, through the abuse made of it, now only a mean of +shameful traffic, in which the more cunning of the two ruins the +ether, in short, a mound the less against the irruptions of +immorality?" + +So much for the opinion of a French writer of estimation on the +effect of these laws: let us at present endeavour to illustrate it by +some examples. + +A young lady, seduced by a married man, found herself pregnant. She +was of a respectable family: he was rich, and felt the consequences +of this event. What was to be done? He goes to one of his friends, +whom he knew not to be overburdened with delicacy, and proposes to +him to marry this young person, in consideration of a certain sum of +money. The friend consents, and the only question is to settle the +conditions. They bargain for some time: at last they agree for 10,000 +francs (_circa_ £410 sterling). The marriage is concluded, the lady +is brought to bed, the child dies, and the gentleman sues for a +divorce. All this was accomplished in six months. As such +opportunities are by no means scarce, he may, in the course of the +year, probably, meet with another of the same nature: thus the office +of bridegroom is converted into a lucrative situation. The following +is another instance of this melancholy truth, but of a different +description. + +A man about thirty-two years of age, well-made, and of a very +agreeable countenance, had been married three months to a young woman +of uncommon beauty. He was loved, nay almost adored by her. Every one +might have concluded that they were the happiest couple in Paris; +and, in fact, no cloud had hitherto overshadowed the serenity of +their union. One day when the young bride was at table with her +husband, indulging herself in expressing the happiness which she +enjoyed, a tipstaff entered, and delivered to her a paper. She read +it. What should it be but a subpoena for a divorce? At first she took +the thing for a pleasantry: but the husband soon convinced her that +nothing was more serious. He assured her that this step would make +her fortune, and his own too, if she would consent to the arrangement +which he had to propose to her. "You know," said he, "the rich and +ugly Madame C----: she has 30,000 francs a year (circa £1250 +sterling); she will secure to me the half of her property, provided I +will marry her. I offer you a third, if, after having willingly +consented to our divorce, you will permit me to see you as my female +friend." Such a proposal shocked her at the moment; but a week's +reflection effected a change in her sentiments; and the business was +completed. _O tempora! O mores!_ + +But though many married individuals still continue to break their +chains, it appears that divorces are gradually decreasing in number; +and should the government succeed in introducing into the law on this +subject the necessary modifications, of course they will become far +less frequent. + +Every legislature must be aware to what a degree plays are capable of +influencing the opinions of a nation, and what a powerful spring they +are for moving the affections. Why then are not theatrical +representations here so regulated, that the stage may conduce to the +amelioration of morals? Instead of this, in most French comedies, the +husband is generally made the butt of ridicule, and the whole plot +often lies in his being outwitted by some conceited spark. Marriage, +in short, is incessantly railed at in such a lively, satirical manner +as to delight nine-tenths of the audience. + +This custom was also introduced on our stage under the reign of +Charles II; and, not many years ago, it was, I am told, as usual to +play _The London Cuckolds_ on Lord Mayor's day, as it is now to give +a representation of _George Barnwell_ during the Easter holidays. +Yet, what is this practice of exhibiting a cuckold in a ridiculous +point of view, but an apology for adultery, as if it was intended to +teach women that their charms are not formed for the possession of +one man only? Alas! it is but too true that some of the French belles +need no encouragement to infidelity: too soon all scruple is stifled +in their bosom; and then, they not only set modesty, but decency too +at defiance. _Ce n'est que le premier pas qui coute_; or, as the same +idea is more fully expressed by our great moral poet: + + "Vice is a monster of so frightful mien, + As, to be hated, needs but to be seen; + Yet, seen too oft, familiar with her face, + We first endure, then pity, then embrace." + +However, in both the instances which I have adduced, the fault was +entirely on the side of the men; and, in general, I believe this will +prove to be the case. Recrimination, indeed, is loudly urged by our +sex in Paris; they blame the women, with a view of extenuating their +own irregularities, which scarcely know any limits. + +On a question of a divorce-bill brought on, not long since, in the +House of Commons, you may recollect that a member was laughed at, for +asserting that if men expected women to reform, they ought to begin +by reforming themselves. For my part, I conceive the idea to be +perfectly just. Infidelity on the woman's side is, unquestionably, +more hurtful to society than a failure of the same sort on the man's; +yet, is it reasonable to suppose women to be so exempt from human +frailty, as to preserve their chastity inviolate, when men set them +so bad an example? + + + +LETTER LXXXVIII. + +_Paris, April 3, 1802_. + +Circumstances have at length occurred to recall me to England, and as +this will, probably, be the last letter that you will receive from me +before I have the pleasure of taking you by the hand, I shall devote +it to miscellaneous subjects, and, without studying any particular +arrangement, speak of them at random, just as they chance to present +themselves. + +A fellow-creature, whose care-worn countenance and emaciated body +claimed a mite from any one who had a mite to bestow, had taken his +stand at the gate-way just now as I entered. The recollection of his +tale of woe being uppermost in my mind, I begin with + +MENDICANTS. + +In spite of the calamities which all great political convulsions +never fail to engender, the streets of Paris present not at this day +that vast crowd of beggars, covered with rags and vermin, by which +they were formerly infested. This is to be attributed to the partial +adoption of measures for employing the poor; and, doubtless, when +receptacles come to be established here, according to the salutary +plans introduced into Bavaria by Count Rumford, mendicity will be +gradually annihilated. + +But, if beggars have decreased in Paris, this is not the case with + +PAWNBROKERS. + +They seem to have multiplied in proportion to the increase of the +number of opportunities afforded for gambling in the lottery, that +is, in the ratio of 21 to 2.[1] + +Formerly, in addition to the public establishment called the _Mont de +Piété_, commissioners were appointed, in different parts of the town, +to take in pledges, and make advances on them previously to their +being lodged in that grand repository. There, money was lent on them +at an interest of 10 per cent; and if the article pledged was not +redeemed by a certain time, it was sold by public auction, and, the +principal and interest being deducted, the surplus was paid to the +holder of the duplicate. Thus the iniquitous projects of usury were +defeated; and the rich, as well as the poor, went to borrow at the +_Mont de Piété_. To obtain a sum for the discharge of a debt of +honour, a dutchess here deposited her diamond ear-rings; while a +washerwoman slipped off her petticoat, and pawned it to satisfy the +cravings of hunger. + +At the present moment, the _Mont de Piété_ still exists; but, +doubtless, on a different plan; for Paris abounds with _Maisons de +prêt_. On the eve of particular days in each month when the +shopkeepers' promissory notes become due, they here pledge articles +in order to procure the means of making good their payments. But the +crowd of borrowers is the greatest on the days immediately preceding +those on which the Paris lottery is drawn; the hucksters, +marketwomen, porters, retailers of fruit, and unfortunate females, +then deposit their wearing apparel at these dens of rapacity, that +they may acquire a share of a ticket, the price of which is fixed so +low as to be within the purchase of the poorest classes. + +The lottery being over, till the next drawing, those persons think no +more of their effects, provided they are within two or three of the +winning numbers; and thus they gamble away almost every thing +belonging to them, even to the very clothes on their back. This is so +true that it is not, I understand, at all uncommon in Paris, for a +Cyprian nymph to send her last robe to the nearest pawnbroker's, in +order to have the chance of a prize in the lottery, and to lie in bed +till she obtains the means of purchasing another. Nor is this by far +the worst part of the story. + +The too credulous followers of Fortune, on finding all their hopes of +success blasted, frequently seek a termination of their misery by +suicide: and a person of veracity, who made a point of visiting the +_Morne_ almost daily, assured me that he always knew when the lottery +had just been drawn, by the increased number of dead bodies, there +exposed, of persons who had put an end to their existence. + +These are facts shocking to relate; but, if legislators will promote +gaming, either by lotteries, or in any other manner, such are the +consequences to be expected. + +Another article which has multiplied prodigiously in Paris, since the +revolution, consists of + +NEWSPAPERS. + +In 1789, the only daily papers in circulation here were the _Journal +de Paris_ and the _Petites Affiches_; for the _Gazette de France_ +appeared only twice a week. From that period, these ephemeral +productions increased so rapidly, that, under the generic name of +_Journaux_, upwards of six thousand, bearing different titles, have +appeared in France, five hundred of which were published in Paris. + +At this time, here is a great variety of daily papers. The most +eminent of these are well known in England; such as the _Moniteur_, +the only official paper, the sale of which is said to be 20,000 per +day; that of the _Journal de Paris_, 16,000; of the _Publiciste_, +14,000; of the _Journal des Débats_, 12,000; of the _Journal des +Défenseurs de la Patrie_, 10,000; and of the _Clé du Cabinet_, 6,000. +The sale of the others is comparatively trifling, with the exception +of the _Petites Affiches_, of which the number daily sold exceeds +30,000. + +In addition to the _Journals_, which I mentioned in my letter of the +16th of December last, the most esteemed are the _Magazin +Encyclopédique_, edited by MILLIN, the _Annales de Chimie_, the +_Journal des Arts_, the _Journal Polytechnique_, the _Journal des +Mines_, the _Journal général des Inventions et des Découvertes_, &c. +I stop here, because it would be useless to attempt to send you a +complete list of all the French periodical publications, as, in the +flux and reflux of this literary ocean, such a list cannot long be +expected to preserve its exactness. + +Among the conveniences which this city affords in an enviable degree +and in great abundance, are + +BATHS. + +Those of Paris, of every description, still retain their former +pre-eminence. The most elegant are the _Bains Chinois_ on the north +Boulevards, where, for three francs, you may enjoy the pleasure of +bathing in almost as much luxury as an Asiatic monarch. Near the +_Temple_ and at the _Vauxhall d'Été_, also on the old Boulevards, are +baths, where you have the advantage of a garden to saunter in after +bathing. + +On the Seine are several floating baths, the most remarkable of which +are the _Bains Vigier_, at the foot of the _Pont National_. The +vessel containing them is upwards of 200 feet in length by about 60 +in breadth, and presents two tiers of baths, making, on both decks, +140 in number. It is divided in the middle by a large transparent +plate of glass, which permits the eye to embrace its whole extent; +one half of which is appropriated to men; the other, to women. On +each deck are galleries, nine feet wide, ornamented with much +architectural taste. On the exterior part of the vessel is a +promenade, decorated with evergreens, orange and rose trees, +jasmines, and other odoriferous plants. By means of a hydraulic +machine, worked by two horses, in an adjoining barge, the reservoirs +can be emptied and filled again in less than an hour. + +The _Bains Vigier_ are much frequented, as you may suppose from their +daily consumption of two cords of wood for fuel. Tepid baths, at +blood-heat, are, at present, universally used by the French ladies, +and, apparently, with no small advantage. The price of one of these +is no more than 30 _sous_, linen, &c. included. + +If you want to learn to swim, you may be instructed here in that +necessary art, or merely take a look at those acquiring it, at the + +SCHOOL OF NATATION. + +The Seine is the school where the lessons are given, and the police +takes care that the pupils infringe not the laws of decency. + + * * * * * + +It is certain that, as far back as the year 1684, means were proposed +in London to transmit signs to a great distance in a very short space +of time, and that, towards the close of the seventeenth century, a +member of the Academy of Sciences made, near Paris, several minute +experiments on the same subject. The paper read at the Royal Society +of London, and the detail of the experiments made in France, seem to +suggest nearly the same means as those now put in practice, by the +two nations, with respect to + +TELEGRAPHS. + +The construction of those in France differs from ours in consisting +of one principal pole, and two arms, moveable at the ends. There are +four in Paris; one, on the _Louvre_, which corresponds with Lille; +another, on the _Place de la Concorde_, with Brest; a third, on one +of the towers of the church of _St. Sulpice_, with Strasburg; and the +fourth, on the other tower of the said church, which is meant to +extend to Nice, but is as yet carried no farther than Dijon. To and +from Lille, which is 120 leagues distant from Paris, intelligence is +conveyed and received in six minutes, three for the question, and +three for the answer. + +Yet, however expeditious this intercourse may seem, it is certain +that the telegraphic language may be abridged, by preserving these +machines in their present state, but at the same time allotting to +each of the signs a greater portion of idea, without introducing any +thing vague into the signification. + +Independently of the public curiosities, which I have described, +Paris contains several + +PRIVATE COLLECTIONS. + +Among them, those most deserving of attention are: + +ADANSON'S cabinet of Natural History, _Rue de la Victoire_. + +CASAS' cabinet of Models and Drawings, _Rue de Seine, Faubourg St. +Germain_. + +CHARLES'S cabinet of Physics, _Palais National des Sciences et des +Arts._ + +DENON'S cabinet of Drawings, &c. _Hôtel de Bouillon_, _Rue J. J. +Rousseau_. + +FOUQUET'S cabinet of Models of Antique Monuments, _Rue de Lille_, _F. +S. G._ + +HAUPOIS' cabinet of Mechanics. + +SUË'S cabinet of Anatomy, _Rue du Luxembourg_. + +TERSAN'S cabinet of Antiquities, _Cloître St. Honoré_. + +VAILLANT'S cabinet of Birds, &c. _Rue du Sépulchre_, _F. S. G._ + +VAN-HORREN'S cabinet of Curiosities, _Rue St. Dominique_, _F. S. G._ + +I must observe that, to visit these men of science, without putting +them to inconvenience, it is expedient either to procure an +introduction, or to address them a note, requesting permission to +view their cabinet. This observation holds good with respect to every +thing that is not public. + +If you are fond of inspecting curious fire-arms, you should examine +the _dépôt d'armes_ of M. BOUTET in the _Rue de la Loi_, whose +manufactory is at Versailles, and also pay a visit to M. REGNIER, at +the _Dépôt Central de l'Artillerie_, _Rue de l'Université_, who is a +very ingenious mechanic, and will shew you several curious articles +of his own invention, such as a _dynamomètre_, by means of which you +can ascertain and compare the relative strength of men, as well as +that of horses and draught-cattle, and also judge of the resistance +of machines, and estimate the moving power you wish to apply to them; +a _potamomètre_, by which you can tell the force of running streams, +and measure the currents of rivers. M. REGNIER has also invented +different kinds of locks and padlocks, which cannot be picked; as +well as some curious pistols, &c. + +I have, as you will perceive, strictly confined myself to the limits +of the capital, because I expect that my absence from it will not be +long; and, in my next trip to France, I intend, not only to point out +such objects as I may now have neglected, but also to describe those +most worthy of notice in the environs of Paris. + +If I have not spoken to you of all the metamorphoses occasioned here +by the revolution, it is because several of them bear not the stamp +of novelty. If the exchange in Paris is now held in the _ci-devant +Eglise des Petits Pères_, did we not at Boston, in New England, +convert the meeting-houses and churches into riding-schools and +barracks? + +As the _Charnier des Innocens_, which had subsisted in the centre of +Paris for upwards of eight centuries, and received the remains of at +least ten millions of human beings, was, before the revolution, +turned into a market-place; so is the famous spot where the Jacobin +convent stood in the _Rue St. Honoré_, and whence issued laws more +bloody than those of Draco, now on the point of being appropriated to +a similar destination. The cemetery of St. Sulpice is transformed +into a Ranelagh. Over the entrance is written, in large letters, +encircled by roses, "BAL DES ZÉPHYRS," and, underneath, you read: + + _"Has ultra metas requiescunt + Beatam spem expectantes."_ + +And on the door itself: + + _"Expectances misericordiam Dei."_ + +I was just going to conclude with _Adieu, till we meet_, when I was +most agreeably surprised by the receipt of your letter. I am happy to +find that, through the kind attention of Mr. Mantell of Dover, whose +good offices on this and other simllar occasions claim my most +grateful acknowledgments, you have received all the packets and books +which I have addressed to you during my present visit to Paris. It is +likewise no small gratification to me to learn that my correspondence +has afforded to you a few subjects of deep reflection. + +As I told you at the time, the task which you imposed on me was more +than I could accomplish; and you must now be but too well convinced +that the apprehension of my inability was not unfounded. It may not, +perhaps, be difficult for a man of sound judgment to seize and +delineate the general progress of the human mind during a determined +period; but to follow successively, through all their details, the +ramifications of the arts and sciences, is a labour which requires +much more knowledge and experience than I can pretend to: nor did +self-love ever blind me so far as to lead me to presume, for a +moment, that success would crown my efforts. + +However, I think I have said enough to shew that one of the striking +effects of the revolution has been to make the arts and sciences +popular in France. It has rendered common those doctrines which had +till then been reserved for first-rate _savans_ and genuises. The +arsenals of the sciences (if I may use the expression) were filled; +but soldiers were wanting. The revolution has produced them in +considerable numbers; and, in spite of all the disasters and evils +which it has occasioned, it cannot be denied that the minds of +Frenchmen, susceptible of the least energy, have here received a +powerful impulse which has urged them towards great and useful ideas. +This impulse has been kept alive and continued by the grand +establishments of public instruction, founded during the course of +that memorable period. Thus, in a few words, you are at once in +possession both of the causes and the result of the progress of the +human mind in this country. + +You may, probably, be surprised that I could have written so much, in +so short a space of time, amid all the allurements of the French +capital, and the variety of pursuits which must necessarily have +diverted my attention. Perhaps too, you may think that I might have +dwelt less on some of my least interesting details. I must confess +that I have, in some measure, subjected myself to such an opinion; +but, knowing your wish to acquire every sort of information, I have +exerted myself to obtain it from all quarters. To collect this budget +has been no easy task; to compress it would have been still more +difficult, and, alas! to have transmitted it, in an epistolary form, +would have been totally out of my power, but for the assistance of +two very ingenious artists, who have not a little contributed to +lighten my labour. Introducing themselves to me, very shortly after +my arrival, the one furnished me with an everlasting pen; and the +other, with an inexhaustible inkstand. + +Farewell, my good friend. I have obtained a passport for England. My +baggage is already packed up. To-morrow I shall devote to the +ceremony of making visits _p. p. c._ that is, _pour prendre congé_ of +my Parisian friends; and, on the day after, (_Deo volente_) I shall +bid adieu to the "paradise of women, the purgatory of men, and the +hell of horses." + +[Footnote 1: Since the revolution, the Paris lottery is drawn three +times in each month, in lieu of twice; and lotteries have also been +established in the principal towns of the Republic, namely; Bordeaux, +Lyons, Marseilles, Rouen, Strasburg, and Brussels. The offices in the +capital present the facility of gambling in all these different +lotteries as often every month as in that of Paris.] + + + +THE END. + +_The new organisation of the National Institute, referred to in +Letter XLV of this volume, will be found among the prefaratory matter +in Vol. I, immediately preceding the Introduction._ + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Paris As It Was and As It Is, by Francis W. 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